From everything that I've heard, Samsung doesn't allow firmware upgrades like that. It would be nice if they changed their policy, but I can see why they wouldn't want people to be upgrading their own firmware since it would open up another can of worms to deal with when something gets messed up. I heard that if you get the light engine replaced that the digital board would have a newer firmware but that is alot to get done just for a newer firmware.

Mitsubishi allows customers to update their DLP firmware. When I had a Mits, they UPS'd the firmware with instructions and had a return envelope to return the firmware update card after you were done with the update. The firmware fixed lockup issues with the set. As far as Samsung, you wonder what they are fixing with the various firmware versions reported out in the field ...

That would be nice if Samsung did that, but I would be surprised if they change their tune. They have more DLP sets out there than anyone else so they also have the potential for many more headaches. The majority of people wouldn't be able to update the firmware anyway. There are so many people who have no idea how to set the clock in their car(or maybe just too lazy to read the instructions) or their old VCR they are still using. I have no idea how they could ever figure out how to update their firmware on the TV.

That would be nice if Samsung did that, but I would be surprised if they change their tune. They have more DLP sets out there than anyone else so they also have the potential for many more headaches. The majority of people wouldn't be able to update the firmware anyway. There are so many people who have no idea how to set the clock in their car(or maybe just too lazy to read the instructions) or their old VCR they are still using. I have no idea how they could ever figure out how to update their firmware on the TV.

The firmware update probably is as simple as plugging in a USB flash drive and powering on your TV. I'm not sure if anyone has even called Samsung to request a firmware update. Had you called to request one and been refused? I suppose if you had some software lockup or something they might be inclined to update the firmware. The only "software" problem I have seen is with the TV's Tuner Channel memory sometimes loosing the configured channels.

I know there are some features the TV has that aren't in use like the NR feature. It defaults to off and you can't get it to stay on in the SM, so there is no effect when you switch it to on in the user menu. But we aren't supposed to be going in the SM anyway. I don't know about the TVs tuner since I use external devices. I would like to try out the firewire connection sometime and see if it will accept a 1080P signal. If Blu-Ray has a firewire output and our sets will accept 1080P over firewire, then our so called problem of a digital 1080P input will be partially solved.

I know there are some features the TV has that aren't in use like the NR feature. It defaults to off and you can't get it to stay on in the SM, so there is no effect when you switch it to on in the user menu. But we aren't supposed to be going in the SM anyway. I don't know about the TVs tuner since I use external devices. I would like to try out the firewire connection sometime and see if it will accept a 1080P signal. If Blu-Ray has a firewire output and our sets will accept 1080P over firewire, then our so called problem of a digital 1080P input will be partially solved.
Supposedly not because Firewire does not support HDCP. In fact Firewire was the favored nation years ago and with all the copy protection issues was shunned by the content providers so it fill out of favor.

When you mean NR are you refering to DNIe? I know when you select it in the SM it does make a huge difference in the pic quality. I also know that when you go back in it says Off again. But has anyone actually done a test to see if the PQ is any different after setting it on and then restarting the set? It seem to stick on my set but I also set another parameter, which may have been the improving factor too.

For NR I mean Noise Reduction. When in the Sm and you enable it, you will see the mosquito noise in the picture reduced. It seems to help greatly with a noisy picture. But as soon as the Tv starts back up from being in the service menu it resets back to off. The same as the DNIe function in the SM. If you turn it off in the SM when you restart the TV from being in the SM it is on again.

There seems to be some confusion on IRE? My understanding recently is that the US is the only one in NTSC land to use 7.5 IRE. That is the standard setting when connecting one or more analog in or out components. Some add Setup to the signal automatically and some components need to be selected. In some cases it is possible to have two components add 7.5 IRE in which case you would have 15 IRE. If you have your components connected digitally then 0 IRE would be selected. A VCR is analog, a DVD player is digital, however if your output is analog then you need to change it to 7.5 IRE. Now I confused myself since VGA is analog. Would that be 7.5 or 0?

bcvp: With my Pioneer 59avi and Sammy hlp6163 (still waiting for my 73" Mits to arrive!), I cannot pass both BTB and WTW with IRE set to 0 no matter how I set anything else on the dvd player. With IRE set to 7.5, however, there is no problem in passing BTB and WTW for a variety of other adjustments. This suggests to me that the only choice is IRE = 7.5.

Millerwill, I'm not here to argue with you, just to clarify for others here that as long as your connection from the DVD player or other digital device is analog then the correct setting is 7.5. HDMI and DVI is 0. 7.5 IRE is a brighter, grayer picture and 0 is black. I know the Sammy has been reviewed as being BTB and other components but were they set to 0 IRE with an all digital connection when they were reviewed? Maybe BTB applies to analog connections at 7.5 IRE?

bcvp: I'm certainly not arguing, just reporting what I have observed. My connection from the Pio 59avi DVD player to the tv is digital [HDMI (out of the Pio 59avi)-DVI (into the Sammy dlp)]. With IRE = 0, I cannot pass BOTH BTB and WTW (some adjustments will do one or the other, but not both), while a variety of adjustments with IRE = 7.5 pass both BTB and WTW. I'm not sure whether passing BTB and WTW is necessarily the be all and end all, again I'm just reporting what I experience with my gear.

That's what I'm wondering? BTB has been around before HDMI. Very few HDTVs are HDMI, few plasmas even and they've been around the longest. Now that I know what I know I'd be interested to go back and check those claims and reviews even to be sure they were 0 IRE. Right now I think they were at 7.5?

I'm glad you don't take offense to my pushing. I think people here would like a straight answer. FYI, although analog connections are supposed to be 7.5, newer, recent sets can handle 0. It was an issue for twenty or so year old sets but not newer ones and again, it only really applies to NTSC in the US. I hope this doesn't confuse more people.

I have a question about D-NET on the Samsung's. Is D-Net proprietary, or will any digital device (such as a HD recorder or PVR) work with it?

I was looking at the Specs of one of RCA's HD recorders and it called its link DTVLink is that something totally different, or just another name for the same thing?

SV

I'm glad you don't take offense to my pushing. I think people here would like a straight answer. FYI, although analog connections are supposed to be 7.5, newer, recent sets can handle 0. It was an issue for twenty or so year old sets but not newer ones and again, it only really applies to NTSC in the US. I hope this doesn't confuse more people.

I certainly don't take offense in the slightest! I'm definitely no 'pro' in these matters, and I am fully in line with you: i.e., I would just like to know what the best settings are for the best PQ. It is very hard to tell strictly by eye at this high level (so some persons--e.g., my wife--wonder what we are worrying about!). When I finally get my new display, I'm planning to have an ISF calibration done, where instruments can make the final measurements.

NTSC composite video in the U.S. has a 7.5 IRE black level (setup). Analog and digital component signals have 0 IRE as the lowest black level.

Taking component out of a DVD, I would use 0 IRE black.

Park

Videopark, that's why I posted what I did. Check your post again. I think it is incorrect?

Does the Sammy support HDCP for sure? I have tried three different sources (Pioneer 59-AVi, loaner Marantz DVD player, and the DirecTV HR10-250) with three different HDMI cables and they all show problems.

When I switch to the HDMI input on the Sammy I get:
Pioneer - flashing green screen - menus unavailable due to flashing
DirecTV DVR - able to see the initial DirecTV setup screens but there's a green screen flash every few seconds
Marantz - image is there however it just flashes on and off rapidly

Is this flashing indicative of a failed HDMI handshake? I mean, if one was to try to push HDMI through a non-compliant device, is this how they spoil the picture by flashing in one manner or the other?

Thanks,
Rick

I have a question about D-NET on the Samsung's. Is D-Net proprietary, or will any digital device (such as a HD recorder or PVR) work with it?

I was looking at the Specs of one of RCA's HD recorders and it called its link DTVLink is that something totally different, or just another name for the same thing?

SV

D-Net is IEEE 1394, ie firewire, and works with compatible devices. I have my Motorola 6412 III DVR connected to it and it works fine.

Millerwill, I'm not here to argue with you, just to clarify for others here that as long as your connection from the DVD player or other digital device is analog then the correct setting is 7.5. HDMI and DVI is 0. 7.5 IRE is a brighter, grayer picture and 0 is black. I know the Sammy has been reviewed as being BTB and other components but were they set to 0 IRE with an all digital connection when they were reviewed? Maybe BTB applies to analog connections at 7.5 IRE?
When testing DVD players, you typically do NOT get an option for IRE. What you can configure is picture, contrast, brightness, color, hue, sharpness, black level, etc. All of my recent DVD reviews used those controls to determine if the player would pass BTB, WTW.

Does the Sammy support HDCP for sure? I have tried three different sources (Pioneer 59-AVi, loaner Marantz DVD player, and the DirecTV HR10-250) with three different HDMI cables and they all show problems.

When I switch to the HDMI input on the Sammy I get:
Pioneer - flashing green screen - menus unavailable due to flashing
DirecTV DVR - able to see the initial DirecTV setup screens but there's a green screen flash every few seconds
Marantz - image is there however it just flashes on and off rapidly

Is this flashing indicative of a failed HDMI handshake? I mean, if one was to try to push HDMI through a non-compliant device, is this how they spoil the picture by flashing in one manner or the other?

Thanks,
Rick

Samsung supports HDCP. I have had several devices connected to my set via HDMI and I have not experienced any problems. The green flash or green screen means that the connection has been dropped. Your best bet is to have Samsung come out and swap out your HDMI board.

NTSC composite video in the U.S. has a 7.5 IRE black level (setup). Analog and digital component signals have 0 IRE as the lowest black level.

Taking component out of a DVD, I would use 0 IRE black.

Park

What about when taking digital (HDMI) out of the DVD? Would you also use IRE = 0 here too? Somewhere above Tony Deluche reported that his 59avi only passed BTB with IRE set to 7.5. ??? I really wish that somebody could give a definitive, verified answer to this.

Bill, that's fair and looking back I guess I or someone should have said that an analog component regardless of the connection used is 7.5 IRE and that is automatically set on consumer components. The same is true that a digital component with a digital connection such as HDMI or DVI is set to 0 IRE on consumer products. Professional components or high end models might have the option to switch between the two, which was my point. Be sure your IRE levels, if available are properly set according to your components and connections. Calibrating with the wrong IRE will give you incorrect results.

What about when taking digital (HDMI) out of the DVD? Would you also use IRE = 0 here too? Somewhere above Tony Deluche reported that his 59avi only passed BTB with IRE set to 7.5. ??? I really wish that somebody could give a definitive, verified answer to this.

I was quoting the standard. Digital component uses 0 IRE black. I haven't measured that particular consumer device out there.

For the definitive, verified standard, go to :

http://www.smpte.org/smpte_store/standards/index.cfm?scope=0&stdtype=rp&CurrentPage=1

The Society of Motion Picture and Television Engineers has many standards available for sale at their site.

Park
SMPTE member since 1982

Millerwill, a DVD player is digital, HDMI is digital and the Sammy is digital. Therefore if available the IRE should be set to 0. The picture will be black, and the Sammy will appear to be off. If you set the IRE to 7.5 the black would be a brighter grey and you could tell the Sammy was on. In other words, there is a big difference between the two and that's why people here should confirm they have everything set correctly.

When testing DVD players, you typically do NOT get an option for IRE. What you can configure is picture, contrast, brightness, color, hue, sharpness, black level, etc. All of my recent DVD reviews used those controls to determine if the player would pass BTB, WTW.

I have seen some units with a "Setup On/Off" switch. In that case, setup would be referring to 7.5 IRE.

Park

Videopark, ok, I understand but the Sammy has analog component, not digital and that is where the confusion was. Thanks.

Videopark, that is correct, and what I was trying to clarify for people. Thanks for your help, I just can't type as fast.

I, like many others, entered the SM and changed the Gamma setting to 0, however, I found that this setting makes the picture too dark s(and very soft, like the "Film" description next to the setting says) o I changed it back to 2. However, this may be because I just had my set calibrated (I began a separate thread and posted my quite favorable opinion of the calibration) and it is due to the calibration that 2 is a preferred setting. Alternativey, it just may be my viewing preference since I like a brighter and sharper picture. Anyone else have similar or different results?

Videopark, that's why I posted what I did. Check your post again. I think it is incorrect?

Let's see...

"By raising video black somewhat above the blanking level, setup provides a transmitted vertical-retrace blanking signal for TV sets. Because television displays are adjusted to produce very little light when the video is black, the blanking level (which is below black) is rendered invisible.

The black-level setup or "pedestal'' was originally anywhere from +5 to +10 IRE, but eventually the EIA RS-170A specified it at +7.5 IRE. (See Figure 51.) Consequently, since the peak white voltage is not increased with setup, the black-to-white amplitude range is reduced by 7.5%. Also, since the video is usually clamped at the blanking level, the video signal with setup does not include a reference black."

The NTSC system has two characteristics that may lead to differences in the related GBR interconnect: the 10:4 video-to-sync ratio and black-level setup. Setup is usually added as part of the encoding process, so GBR signals coming directly from a camera generally do not have setup. In this case, the non-composite GBR is at 714 mV peak. If sync is added in this system, it will be at -286 mV. (Sync is usually taken from the green channel, although it may be added to all three.) Prior to the advent of component video, this was the common GBR interconnect in NTSC regions.

While the different standards described in this section are quite similar, they are not strictly compatible. The differences in peak level (700 mV vs. 714 mV) will not, in themselves, make very noticeable errors in displayed light levels, but incompatibility in setup will make quite noticeable differences in the displayed images. (An error of 7.5% at black will be very apparent.) In addition, the change in peak-to-peak video amplitude (voltage range from black to peak white) required to accommodate setup is noticeable in peak white areas of the image.

For example: a picture monitor calibrated for a no-setup signal will display peak whites at about 83% relative light output if driven with a 7.5% setup signal. The opposite case (monitor calibrated for a setup signal, but used with a no-setup signal) will have display highlights about 21% higher than normal. (These numbers apply if the displayed black level has been appropriately readjusted, but the monitor gain has not been recalibrated.)

So it depends on the particular standard your equipment has chosen:

700 mV RGB (SMPTE/EBU N10)
714 mV RGB (NTSC-related)
714 mV RGB with setup (NTSC-related)
700 mV RGB with setup (MII)

From : http://www.tek.com/Measurement/cgi-bin/framed.pl?Document=/Measurement/App_Notes/Component_Puzzle/standards.html&FrameSet=television.

Park

Videopark, I agree with that post. The post is referring to broadcast signals being the NTSC legal level. What my posts on the previous page and yours I think say the same thing. I was just trying to clarify it. So as they say, clear as mud. Is there something I've said you disagree with? Thanks.

I, like many others, entered the SM and changed the Gamma setting to 0, however, I found that this setting makes the picture too dark s(and very soft, like the "Film" description next to the setting says) o I changed it back to 2. However, this may be because I just had my set calibrated (I began a separate thread and posted my quite favorable opinion of the calibration) and it is due to the calibration that 2 is a preferred setting. Alternativey, it just may be my viewing preference since I like a brighter and sharper picture. Anyone else have similar or different results?
I had the same experience and I am doing a little investigation here. When I get a few more facts I will report how I got my sharpness back again.

Chris

RMSko, that is what I'm concerned with. If your Sammy is calibrated with analog connections and then digital, the calibration could be different? Now that I think of it, it isn't the calibration itself but the way the calibration was made I think? I mean if the calibration is perfect, which I'm sure it is, then it shouldn't matter if your DVD player was the best or the worst when it was calibrated should it? Same with the cable? If I used a coat hangar for rabbit ears for an OTA input I assume the set would still be properly calibrated when I had a HD STB DVR connected? In other words, regardless of the input, analog, digital, 7.5 or 0 IRE, the set should still be calibrated? I was going to wait until I get my components before I callibrate it and I think others have said the same thing but then it shouldn't matter should it?

Hey, I know that many of you guys know more about all this than I do. But I (and others too) have noted that our Pioneer 59avi (which can set IRE at 0 or 7.5) does not pass BTB when IRE is set to 0, but does when it is set to 7.5; this is what I observe. Now maybe not passing BTB is not bad, though I had always thought it was. Yes, I do see the picture lighten up when I switch IRE from 0 to 7.5, but I re-calibrate each with DVE (IRE = 7.5 yields Brightness = 41, and IRE = 0 gives Brightness = 45.) The dvd and hlp6163 are connected via a HDMI-DVI cable (HDMI end to the dvd, and DVI end to the Sammy).

Samsung supports HDCP. I have had several devices connected to my set via HDMI and I have not experienced any problems. The green flash or green screen means that the connection has been dropped. Your best bet is to have Samsung come out and swap out your HDMI board.

UCSB

I think RickNa is plugging the HDMI from his Direct TV DVR and DVD player directly to his receiver, and then HDMI from receiver to TV. Is this what you do? This has been a bit of a problem, and I assume if corrected, we wouldn't have lip sync issues. Am I correct?

RickNa

Hi

I was looking at Yamaha, and specifically the 1500. The audio delay to resolve lip sync issues is zero to 240 milliseconds, quite amble for today’s uses.

I was actually looking at a slightly higher end Yamaha that had HDMI switching until I found out you cannot (with my cable company's SA 8300HD PVR) go from cable box HDMI out to Yamaha HDMI in, and then from the receiver HDMI out to the HDMI input on the TV. Well you can, but there are issues and you mentioned some.

So I decided that if HDMI issues had to be worked out completely then I'd move down slightly in receiver cost, but absolutely needed the audio delay for lip sync that would probably crop up.

Anyway, I was in a Yamaha dealer yesterday, fishing around for reduced pricing on the 1500, as it will be replaced shortly by the 1600, when the subject of the HDMI problem came up. The salesman immediately mentioned that the Pioneer Elite line, the VSX72 and the VSX74 can do with HDMI switching what the Yamahas cannot. So in theory, audio sync should not be a problem with one HDMI cable from the Pioneer to my HDMI capable TV.

I've yet to confirm all this, I was a little rushed for time, so didn't challenge the salesman to prove it with in store equipment, but I think I will.

So, if you can replace your loaner receiver with a loaner VSX72 or VSX74 you MAY be pleasantly surprised, however, I think these things are very "cable company" dependant, so mileage may vary.

This is the perfect, and a final solution to any lip sync issues that are common to Samsung DLPs and all other manufactures as well............... I think

Don't know a lot about Pioneer, so advice and comments on these receivers is certainly welcome. Do you think the salesman was just blowing smoke?

Thanks

What my posts on the previous page and yours I think say the same thing. I was just trying to clarify it. So as they say, clear as mud. Is there something I've said you disagree with? Thanks.

Nope. Just trying to show the depth of the answers. Many standards have been developed over the years and sometimes there are no obvious answers. But when in doubt, composite 7.5, component 0.

Thanks for your help.

Park

Samsung supports HDCP. I have had several devices connected to my set via HDMI and I have not experienced any problems. The green flash or green screen means that the connection has been dropped. Your best bet is to have Samsung come out and swap out your HDMI board.

OK, thanks for the input. I guess I'll have to get the Sammy serviced, it's only 2 weeks old and I just got my HDMI cables this week.

As far as the other post asking if I went from components to A/V receiver and then to Sammy, no, I went directly from components (DVD and HD DVR) to the Sammy.

Thanks,
Rick

Hey, I know that many of you guys know more about all this than I do. But I (and others too) have noted that our Pioneer 59avi (which can set IRE at 0 or 7.5) does not pass BTB when IRE is set to 0, but does when it is set to 7.5; this is what I observe. Now maybe not passing BTB is not bad, though I had always thought it was. Yes, I do see the picture lighten up when I switch IRE from 0 to 7.5, but I re-calibrate each with DVE (IRE = 7.5 yields Brightness = 41, and IRE = 0 gives Brightness = 45.) The dvd and hlp6163 are connected via a HDMI-DVI cable (HDMI end to the dvd, and DVI end to the Sammy).

You could call Pioneer and ask them how it works. Here is a test that you can perform that might resolve the issue for you. Setup a component connection with the BTB level adjusted perfectly. Then set your HDMI connection to IRE 0. Start a movie with a lot of shadow detail, like LOTR and compare the two images. While testing DVD players I noticed that several players had multiple picture modes. Some had set the black threshold correctly, but you could not use DVE to set the mode to pass BTB because it was set at the correct point in the DVD player. BUT, the actual picture on this setting was correctly set. Therefore, you could compare the shadow detail between a manually (and correctly) set picture mode with the automatic preset picture mode and confirm that the player was working correctly.

I thought the component inputs of these sets didn't pass BTB?

I thought the component inputs of these sets didn't pass BTB?

Ouch, I didn't know that! Are you sure?

Bill, that's what I'm trying to get at, not knowing those options or settings. I think if you were to freeze the image and switch the inputs that you should get a clear comparison for the different settings and inputs.

Regardless, the component inputs are analog, not digital so the IRE would be 7.5.

RE: Video Setup
Among the other duties of my job is color correcting that which you see at home in network promos. We use SDI monitors and setup video to the digital standard of 0 for black levels. It is my understanding that a 7.5 set-up is added for analog broadcast. From a picture quality standpoint touching black in somewhere picture content (as well as white) always gives a more vibrant, 3 dimensional quality. We use to call it "snap" in my photography training days.

As has been suggested here, if I corrected video set-up to 7.5 on my work's digital monitor, you would be seeing a set-up of 15 IRE at home.

RE: Firewire
I had hoped to connect my connect my new HDV video editing software to my 6768 via firewire. Two hang ups. The Samsung is expecting "handshaking" between the TV and the external device according to the Samsung CSR tech. This tech said that they never expected someone to hook directly to a computer. Secondly, according to the TV manual the Firewire source will only accept MPEG-II input, not DV. I have many 1394 devices capable of connection to my editing system, but it looks like the TV will not be one of them.

RE: Felston/Oppo Settings
Like many others have reported, I have set my Felston audio delay settings to around 110 ms for audio from my Dish STB. However, I have found that over two months I have consistently been bumping up the delay for the Oppo DVD. I think the number will probably in up landing somewhere (no yelping, please) between 263 and 270 ms.

I don't say that these are THE definitive delay numbers. I would just offer this example if someone feels that their audio delay still doesn't feel right even though they are set closer to the conventional wisdom's 100-110ish. You have to set up to what works for your system.

Jim

Pixguy, thanks for the confirmation. I don't understand why you would connect the TV to the PC though via FW? I'm guessing to record from the Sammy to the PC? I thought most people here were considering that route to play from a camcorder or something to the Sammy, not the other way around? Maybe I'm off?

RMSko, that is what I'm concerned with. If your Sammy is calibrated with analog connections and then digital, the calibration could be different? Now that I think of it, it isn't the calibration itself but the way the calibration was made I think? I mean if the calibration is perfect, which I'm sure it is, then it shouldn't matter if your DVD player was the best or the worst when it was calibrated should it? Same with the cable? If I used a coat hangar for rabbit ears for an OTA input I assume the set would still be properly calibrated when I had a HD STB DVR connected? In other words, regardless of the input, analog, digital, 7.5 or 0 IRE, the set should still be calibrated? I was going to wait until I get my components before I callibrate it and I think others have said the same thing but then it shouldn't matter should it?
The calibration is not done with your DVD player as the source. It is only verifyed and tweaked with your various sources. A calibration is done with a signal generator (these days via the HDMI input but in the past the component). Then after the 'set' is calibrated, the calibrator will go back in and make small adjustments to each of your inputs to correct variances. Much of this is done in the user mode unless it is extreme.

One problem that I had was that I was given a good set of 1080i test patterns but my SS HD950 could not pass BTB at 1080i via HDMI and my Sony could at 480i, but the Sony would not play the DVD R because it was 'born' years before that format was a dream.

RMSko, that is what I'm concerned with. If your Sammy is calibrated with analog connections and then digital, the calibration could be different? Now that I think of it, it isn't the calibration itself but the way the calibration was made I think? I mean if the calibration is perfect, which I'm sure it is, then it shouldn't matter if your DVD player was the best or the worst when it was calibrated should it? Same with the cable? If I used a coat hangar for rabbit ears for an OTA input I assume the set would still be properly calibrated when I had a HD STB DVR connected? In other words, regardless of the input, analog, digital, 7.5 or 0 IRE, the set should still be calibrated? I was going to wait until I get my components before I callibrate it and I think others have said the same thing but then it shouldn't matter should it?

I think I may have confused you with my post. The calibration provided amazing results on all inputs. I was just saying that I prefer the Gamma at 2 on all inputs rather than the Gamma at 0 (I'm pretty sure that if you change the Gamma setting in the SM it will apply that setting to all inputs).

Ouch, I didn't know that! Are you sure?
I know with my Denon 2200 connected directly to the component inputs it won't pass BTB. I know the player will pass BTB becasue it did on my old 1080i set and on my 720P LCD set. If I run the 2200 through my iscanHD+ using the HDMI input to the tv, it will pass BTB. I don't know if this is isolated to my set or not not. Fortunately I don't need to use the component inputs of the tV. I don't even use my 2200 anymore except for the occasional SACD/DVD-A disc. I use my Sony 975 or OPPO player for my DVD watching with the HDMI/DVI outputs.

Ccouper, ok so if it is callibrated via HDMI but you don't have any HDMI components connected then the set is still callibrated but might need some user adjustments depending on the component connected? I think I got it? Can a user calibrate their components after it is callibrated professionally or is that still not considered a good idea?

RMSko, I think I got it actually, more so than I thought. I just hope people find this helpful and interesting and not too confusing. My issue I guess was if changing the gamma affected everything that was callibrated? I guess everything would still be equal then, just the gamma would be affected?

Aaronwt, how "old" is your old 1080i? I just got mine!

Aaronwt, how "old" is your old 1080i? I just got mine!

I got it in 2001 and got rid of it this Summer before I got my 1080P set. I gave it to a coworker for $250. I had Eliab do all the tweaks possible to the set so I was glad to give it a good home with someone who would appreciate it.

Pixguy, thanks for the confirmation. I don't understand why you would connect the TV to the PC though via FW? I'm guessing to record from the Sammy to the PC? I thought most people here were considering that route to play from a camcorder or something to the Sammy, not the other way around? Maybe I'm off?

The HDV editing program in question, the Avid Xpress Pro HD, inputs and outputs in HDV format via firewire to a HD machine or HD camera VCR. The system uses a breakout box (the Avid Mojo) that inputs/outputs SD video. OBTW, I do have the SD output of the Mojo fed to the Samsung 6768 through a video DA.

So, while I can view the SD output of the editor on a video monitor, I have no HD monitor. I was hoping that the Avid HD output via the firewire could be fed to the 6768. What a spectacular output screen that would have been. Maybe I can still work something out. :rolleyes: ??

J.

Ccouper, ok so if it is callibrated via HDMI but you don't have any HDMI components connected then the set is still callibrated but might need some user adjustments depending on the component connected? I think I got it? Can a user calibrate their components after it is callibrated professionally or is that still not considered a good idea?
The calibrator will adjust settings that affect all the inputs like color, brightness, contrast, index delay, etc.

They then can then go out to the user mode to check each of your inputs and adjust those settings optimally for each input. If they find some of your settings are off center they can go back into the sm and tweak those settings for an input (like brightness for example). You can then adjust your normal settings between dvd's or if you buy a new device etc all from the user menus.

Its a bit trial and error after the calibration because every time you go into the SM it sets the user settings back to the defaults. So when they set everything and get it right, when you hit the reset button it will be back to the way the calibrator set it, and not how the factory set it.

One word of caution. I would look over the calibrator and take notes of every setting they change. Both the old value and the new. In most cases this is not needed because they will make everything perfect, but if you do not like the changes, there is no way to go back to factory unless you have the original settings written down. There are no 'versions' stored in the sm, nor are the original factory settings documented anywhere.

bcvp

I think you'd be better having the calibrator return to do your additional inputs and have them touch up those that you already had done.

You'd be surprised how just a slight difference in adjustments affects picture quality.

It's easier to just take a picture of every screen than to write the settings down. That would be alot to write down while it will only take a second to take a picture that will have all the values for that page in the SM.

Chris - What was really cool about my calibration is that Kevin Miller (of ISF based in NY) has a new state of the art piece of equipment that works perfectly with the Samsung sets. It's an $11,000 camera that sits on a tripod and based on the image from the TV, recommends specific SM settings; primarily to each of the various color settings in the SM (about 25 changes to the SM in total and in my case, the changes to the factory SM settings were significant in many cases). Kevin started to explain the process to me; he said that the settings generate an algorithm that works with the Samsung set's SM and results in a near perfect picture for all inputs. I really didn't follow what he was saying, but I have to say that after the SM changes, the color and picture looked nothing short of amazing. Anyway, after he did the SM changes he then did the "regular" calibration with a signal generator. He did this for 2 HDMI inputs and 2 component inputs. He used Standard/Warm 1 for all inputs and based on the from the signal generator he tweaked the user menu settings, but you are correct, those changes were not significant due to the previous changes to the SM. He moved sharpness to 0 on all inputs (unlike the HLP models, with these sets contrast does affect the picture a bit), but contrast did not need to be changed from the defalut setting of 80 for any input and brightness and color only needed to be changed a click or two. The bottom line: these sets look great out of the box, but with my set the calibration made a huge difference. I do not believe that this is something that can be achieved via changes to the user menu, it requires SM changes. If anyone has any interest, I can ask Kevin to give me more detail about his new camera and his calibration process. He consults for Samsung and really is one of the leaders in his field.

BTW - am I right that regardless of what input you are on when you enter the SM, any changes made to the SM for gamma or color will affect all inputs?

I, like many others, entered the SM and changed the Gamma setting to 0, however, I found that this setting makes the picture too dark s(and very soft, like the "Film" description next to the setting says) o I changed it back to 2. However, this may be because I just had my set calibrated (I began a separate thread and posted my quite favorable opinion of the calibration) and it is due to the calibration that 2 is a preferred setting. Alternativey, it just may be my viewing preference since I like a brighter and sharper picture. Anyone else have similar or different results?

I was having a problem with dark scenes being fully saturated black with no shadow detail. The user settings could not resolve this. I am trying to learn all about ISF calibration, so these discussions are extremely helpful. Anyway, I tried several gamma settings before I was able to clear up the black problem. I had to set gamma from 2 to 4. gamma 0 was far worse! It seemed to fix the problem but until I learn more about calibration I will leave it there.

It seems a shame that after spending 4 grand on a DLP that one would have to spend 3 or 4 hundred more just make the set perform to specs. And, if the sm effects all inputs, then why do ISF calibrators charge by the input? Why can't the manufactor callibrate the sm before shipping?

Pixguy, I'm using the 5678 for editing too. I'm not editing since I don't have a HD cam yet. I went with the 5678 instead of two, small HD widescreen monitors and a HDTV for video out. The 5678 blows away any 24" HD flatscreen computer monitor.

I edit with Canopus NX with expansion card for HD or HDV editing. I have the timeline connected to the Sammy with my 6600 via VGA and I have component out via the NX expansion card to the Sammy. I edit on the timeline and then change input to view the HD full screen. It is really unbelievable I can do this from my home, with a huge monitor and for less than buying all three monitors.

RMSko, I'd like more info on that calibration equipment. My understanding was that these calibrators were certified and had the same gear? I think anyone here would want to use the best with the latest equipment? Do you have any info on the product itself that people here could look into? There is calibrating equipment for computer monitors that photographers use to be sure their photo on the monitor is correct. That equipment attaches to the front of the monitor. It sounds like something similar?

And, if the sm effects all inputs, then why do ISF calibrators charge by the input? Why can't the manufactor callibrate the sm before shipping?

FYI - My calibrator did NOT charge by the input, it was one flat fee and for that fee he did as many inputs as you wanted. I understand your point that we shouldn't have to pay more for calibration after spending all this money for the set, but it's really only for people like us on the forum. For the average Joe, it's not necessary. Also, calibration would help every type of set out there, CRT, plasma, LCD, so it's not just limited to the Samsung DLPs.

RMSko, I'd like more info on that calibration equipment. My understanding was that these calibrators were certified and had the same gear? I think anyone here would want to use the best with the latest equipment? Do you have any info on the product itself that people here could look into? There is calibrating equipment for computer monitors that photographers use to be sure their photo on the monitor is correct. That equipment attaches to the front of the monitor. It sounds like something similar?

I've asked Kevin Miller to give me more info and I'll post it when I get it. I believe this equipment is relatively new and only calibrators willing to spend the $11,000 will be using it. If I remember correctly, I don't think anything was attached to the set, I think it was just a camera that sits on a tripod that takes readings based on the picture from the set and then the computer in the camera provides all the recommended changes to the SM.

Hello,
Wondering if anyone else has seen this happen...briefly yesterday on each of my local hi-def stations and HBO/HDnet, the picture got very "static", like frames per second were missing. The result was the normally smooth transitioning video in a football game became choppy film-like images. I noticed it both on the OTA and Tivo inputs. I switched inputs, powered off and back on, and the problem dissapeared. Is the old HDCP handshake issue not taking place? Could it be light engine related?

Thanks in adavnce,
Marc

My setup:
HL-R5668W
HD Tivo, HDMI

Pixguy, I think the only question with the Avid is what connection does it provide for real time HD out? The FW is not real time afaik? You could view with FW back to the camera but the camera screen is not HD and my understanding is with HDV there is a delay to the camera or other component? I haven't tried it myself but it isn't the same as DV. I would go to Avid and see what they say to use for HD out in real time?

2mutch, if it happens on a regular basis I'd say it was the set. Everyone here has noticed occasional PQ issues and most are from the distribution, that is your cable company or satellite and not the set. I have the new HD STB DVR w/HDMI from Comsucks and I had video lag for about a week before they fixed it. People here notice lag from their AVR but I wonder how much is really from the distribution and not the AVR? In other words I use the Sammy speakers where there isn't supposed to be any lag. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

I asked Kevin Miller of ISFTV (NY) to give me some more detail on the new equipment, a "Minolta CS200 Chroma meter", he is using to calibrate Samsung DLPs and his calibration process in general. Here is his detailed explanation:

Minolta CS200 Chroma Meter: The CS200 is designed to measure luminance, chromaticity, gamma and contrast of light emitting products, such as large flat panel and plasma displays, compact LCD's and OLED's, outdoor screens, high pressure lamps and instrument panels. In short, it can accurately read any type of display device. The CS-200 has 40 high accuracy sensors to calculate spectral response where as most color analyzers have only 3; 3 selectable measuring angles, and measurement speed as low as 0.5 seconds.

The Minolta CS-200 has been compared to the industry standard calibration device, the Photo Research PR 650 Spectraradiometer by JKP (Joe Kane Productions), and has proven to be as accurate as the PR650, and quite a bit faster in its readings.

Calibration of Samsung DLPs: The calibration process of Samsung late model HL-R series DLP RPTVS is quite sophisticated and requires a very high quality spectradiometer or Minolta CS200 Chroma meter for the accurate and best results. Unfortunately, there are many technicians who opt for inexpensive equipment that can’t do the job properly. The process involves measuring the Primary colors of White, Red, Green and Blue; entering it the x and y coordinates into the service menu, and then entering the destination points for Red, Green, Blue, Cyan, Magenta, Yellow and finally White. The Samsung software then corrects the Primary and Secondary colors, and calculates the grayscale to very close to x=313 and y=329 for all the inputs. The result is the most accurate colorimetery of any TV I have ever seen.

My understanding was that these calibrators were certified and had the same gear?An ISF calibrator has taken courses offered by ISF. They are not certified. Also, they are not all experienced in the same technologies.

There are a few Samsung DLP experts who participate here at AVS. There user names are SethS, Cheezmo, Eliab, and David Abrams. I don't know if Kevin Miller spends any time in this forum.

SethS trains other calibrators and consults for a number of manufacturers including Samsung.

RMSko, thanks for that report. I guess I would think most calibrators would use a similar device? It sounds like the sensors I mentioned, but I guess the more you spend the better they are. I'm in a bind since I bought the Sammy for video editing and would want to be sure it is properly calibrated, but I don't have the cam yet so it isn't urgent and I don't have any of the new AV components I want to add to the Sammy yet either.

I was looking to get an AVR with delay with Sirius and 7.1 wireless surround sound speakers if there is such an animal?

Do the Sammy's have a battery to hold the settings if you lose power or does it have CMOS or flash memory more likely, that keeps the memory with or without power? I guess I'm dating myself since most are familiar with flash memory now. Also is it possible there is a jumper or DIN to reset the SM? I'm thinking if you were to sell the set the new owners might prefer the out of the box look? I'm just thinking too much I guess?

I asked Kevin Miller of ISFTV (NY) to give me some more detail on the new equipment ... he is using to calibrate Samsung DLPs ...

... The process involves measuring the Primary colors of White, Red, Green and Blue ...

Far as I can tell, there are only 3 primary colors when it comes to color analysis.

Let's see if this makes sense to people...

I think this is the Pronto code to access the service menu:

0000 007C 0000 0022 00A9 00AB 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0014 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0014 0016 0015 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0014 0016 003F 0016 003F 0015 0703

However, it needs to be entered after you are in the "Info" screen.

So, here are the steps to turn off DNIe (This is all from memory, I'm not at home at the moment, so hopefully the steps are all correct!!)

1. With TV on, push "Info" button on remote
2. Enter the above Pronto code to access the service menu
3. Arrow down once to select DNIe menu
4. Arrow right once to enter the DNIe menu
5. Arrow up 4 times (I think!) to select DNIe entry (it will say "OFF" but it isn't! You need to toggle it on and then back off for it to be truly off)
6. Arrow right twice to toggle DNIe ON and then OFF
7. Push "Menu" button on remote to exit DNIe selection
8. Push "Menu button on remote again to exit the DNIe screen
9. Enter the above Pronto code to exit the Service Menu screen


That's it. Every time you change Source, or switch the TV off and then back on DNIe will revert to being ON, so you will need to follow the above procedure to turn it OFF again.
:)

Seems like a couple of people have reported being unable to get the above procedure to work. Has anyone been able to get the above procedure to work? I've got the service access button IR transmission captured to a button in the program "RemoteControl II" on my pocketpc, and the above code is what the program reports the transmission to be. (I'm assuming that it is the Pronto code for the IR transmission)

Frys had a convienient side by side with the HLR6768 next to the Sony 60" SXRD. Hitachi was there along with Mits close by.

I spent about 1/2 hour viewing and comparing mostly ESPN HDTV. They all had the same picture. Very nice in HDTV. I did notice when a normal NTSC picture came up.......all were grainy and especially watching golf. The golf ball and a very obvious fuzz around it...again on all. Im guess it was the signal and the signal being piped to the 50-100 TVs they have there.

ALso I noticed a Samsung special going on where you get a free DVD progressive player if you buy before Dec. THe 6768 was $5500 _ tax there. But I have found it routinely for $1500-2000 less online and that includes shipping. After all, the TVs get shipped to there from someplace, so whats the big deal about having it shipped to my house vs there.

There they have Inventory which must be taxed quarterly. There is also, heat, light, employees, and of course some profit.

Frys had a convienient side by side with the HLR6768 next to the Sony 60" SXRD. Hitachi was there along with Mits close by.

I spent about 1/2 hour viewing and comparing mostly ESPN HDTV. They all had the same picture. Very nice in HDTV. I did notice when a normal NTSC picture came up.......all were grainy and especially watching golf. The golf ball and a very obvious fuzz around it...again on all. Im guess it was the signal and the signal being piped to the 50-100 TVs they have there.

When you say 'they all had the same picture', do you only mean that the same picture was being shown on all, or also that the PQ of all the sets was similar?

There they have Inventory which must be taxed quarterly. There is also, heat, light, employees, and of course some profit.

OK...thats good to know. Makes sense then to spend $2000 more for the TV from them.

When you say 'they all had the same picture', do you only mean that the same picture was being shown on all, or also that the PQ of all the sets was similar?

Yes. The same channel from satellite, I forgot which service was fed to all TVs. In order to change the channel he had to change the satellite reciever and each TV then would display that channel......... ESPN HDTV. I also had him change to a normal NTSC channel (some shopping channel) to see how it looked on all the TVs.

They all looked the same.

I did try to find the rainbow effect by moving my eyes back and forth but didnt see anything like I saw on the video when he moved the camera back and forth when viewing the test circle on the TV. on any of the TVs.

When there is movement, like in a football game, that portion of the action not being following did seem to get fuzzy. Maybe thats the rainbow effect.

But I think some of the fuzziness/halo I saw before, like on the golfball. was just a degraded signal. It did remind me a bit of a shadow image you see when you get multipath into your tv antenna. Im hoping that was it anyway.

Videopark posted on 10-28-05, 01:45 AM:
>>
Originally Posted by rLsj
>>>>I understand double the 1080X1920 resolution will be offered within five years...
>>>>
Where did you get that information?
>>

I read it somewhere around here. Sorry I can't find a reference to the quote. But it seems only a logical consequence of the FCC's recently expressed interest in connecting all US residences by optical fiber to a terabit national backbone net.

Thanks to all of you who responded with answers and advice to my query about control of the sound system external to my 6768. I have ordered a Denon AVR-1706, which will cover all my issues.

While awaiting delivery, I submitted a complaint to Samsung Support about the inability to control external sound from the TV remote. I'm informed they have escalated the question upstairs. Won't it be ironic if they eventually reply with a firmware change to be applied via the service function?

Meanwhile excuse me while I gush once again about the quality of HDTV! Reasonably distant landscape views -- crowded beaches, football games, mountain valleys -- are especially attractive. The reason, I think, is that for distant scenes, unlike close-ups, we expect no 3D effect. They resemble the view through "picture windows." Breathtaking is the word!

--Robert Smith

Frys had a convienient side by side with the HLR6768 next to the Sony 60" SXRD. Hitachi was there along with Mits close by.

Thanks for this, but I noticed in the subject field you put "comparing HP and Samsung", but said nothing about HP in the text of your message.

When you said Hitachi, did you actually mean HP?

Thanks

I asked Kevin Miller of ISFTV (NY) to give me some more detail on the new equipment, a "Minolta CS200 Chroma meter", he is using to calibrate Samsung DLPs and his calibration process in general. Here is his detailed explanation:

Minolta CS200 Chroma Meter: The CS200 is designed to measure luminance, chromaticity, gamma and contrast of light emitting products, such as large flat panel and plasma displays, compact LCD's and OLED's, outdoor screens, high pressure lamps and instrument panels. In short, it can accurately read any type of display device. The CS-200 has 40 high accuracy sensors to calculate spectral response where as most color analyzers have only 3; 3 selectable measuring angles, and measurement speed as low as 0.5 seconds.

The Minolta CS-200 has been compared to the industry standard calibration device, the Photo Research PR 650 Spectraradiometer by JKP (Joe Kane Productions), and has proven to be as accurate as the PR650, and quite a bit faster in its readings.

Calibration of Samsung DLPs: The calibration process of Samsung late model HL-R series DLP RPTVS is quite sophisticated and requires a very high quality spectradiometer or Minolta CS200 Chroma meter for the accurate and best results. Unfortunately, there are many technicians who opt for inexpensive equipment that can’t do the job properly. The process involves measuring the Primary colors of White, Red, Green and Blue; entering it the x and y coordinates into the service menu, and then entering the destination points for Red, Green, Blue, Cyan, Magenta, Yellow and finally White. The Samsung software then corrects the Primary and Secondary colors, and calculates the grayscale to very close to x=313 and y=329 for all the inputs. The result is the most accurate colorimetery of any TV I have ever seen.

That sounds like the device Eliab from Avical uses. Not for sure though. I'll have to ask him again when he is here this week. I will take pictures of the Removable Velux/Foamcore-board panels that I am having him install. They are supposed to greatly improve the black level and increase the contrast ratio by nearly 10%, since they will eliminate virtually all internal cabinet reflections and unused space.

Thanks for this, but I noticed in the subject field you put "comparing HP and Samsung", but said nothing about HP in the text of your message.

When you said Hitachi, did you actually mean HP?

Thanks

oh sorry. I was just reading an article on HP and I had a brain synaptic short circuit. The title should have have been "Comparing Sony and Samsung". I dont think they had a HP there. Im going back tommorrow to check out the 72" Mits and Ill make a point to look for HP then.

Let's see if this makes sense to people...

I think this is the Pronto code to access the service menu:

0000 007C 0000 0022 00A9 00AB 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0014 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0014 0016 0015 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0014 0016 003F 0016 003F 0015 0703

However, it needs to be entered after you are in the "Info" screen.

So, here are the steps to turn off DNIe (This is all from memory, I'm not at home at the moment, so hopefully the steps are all correct!!)

1. With TV on, push "Info" button on remote
2. Enter the above Pronto code to access the service menu
3. Arrow down once to select DNIe menu
4. Arrow right once to enter the DNIe menu
5. Arrow up 4 times (I think!) to select DNIe entry (it will say "OFF" but it isn't! You need to toggle it on and then back off for it to be truly off)
6. Arrow right twice to toggle DNIe ON and then OFF
7. Push "Menu" button on remote to exit DNIe selection
8. Push "Menu button on remote again to exit the DNIe screen
9. Enter the above Pronto code to exit the Service Menu screen


That's it. Every time you change Source, or switch the TV off and then back on DNIe will revert to being ON, so you will need to follow the above procedure to turn it OFF again.
:)

Has anyone gotten this Pronto code to work to access the SM? I've tried it (and have entered "Info" first), but it didn't work. Bill? Anyone else?

After waiting three months beyond the original expected delivery date, I have now received a HL-R7178W 71" unit via Tweeter. It seems that due to design changes, this model was delayed compared with other models. The TV seems to be working fine.

Bobfriesenhahn, how far away are you from the set? I wish I had the $ and space for it!

Has anyone gotten this Pronto code to work to access the SM? I've tried it (and have entered "Info" first), but it didn't work. Bill? Anyone else?

The pronto code did not work. But, I have PM'ed Nazgul_Darkrider with a possible approach to get it working.

Videopark posted on 10-28-05, 01:45 AM:
>>
Originally Posted by rLsj
>>>>I understand double the 1080X1920 resolution will be offered within five years...
>>>>
Where did you get that information?
>>

I read it somewhere around here. Sorry I can't find a reference to the quote. But it seems only a logical consequence of the FCC's recently expressed interest in connecting all US residences by optical fiber to a terabit national backbone net.
--Robert Smith

Don't you think it is quite a leap to take a comment from a government board expressing a desire to improve communication to "double the 1080X1920 resolution will be offered within five years"? Offered by who?

If you have more info about the Commission's interest in optical fiber backbone, I'd like to read more about it. I did some searches on the Commission's web site but the subject is rather broad and couldn't find anything specific.

Park

For those interested in a service maual for the 6168, here is some info from Samsung:
Dear Customer,

Please refer to below part information that you have requested. If you would like to place an order, visit http://www.samsungparts.com And enter the below part number in the upper right hand side Search bar. Or please call 1-800-627-4368 to order.

Sincerely,
J&J International
Authorized Samsung Electronics Distributor
800-627-4368

*Shipping charges are subject to changed without notice. Oversized items and some destinations may be subject to additional charges.

Part Number: OM-HLR6168W
Description: OWNER'S MANUAL
Specification: HLR6168W
Unit Price: $10.00
Plus shipping and handling.

Your mileage may vary.

Park

I spent a few hours tonight putting my beautiful Bell'o stand together, and now I'm just sitting on my hands, anxiously awaiting the delivery of my 5678. All of my hookups are ready, I just have to learn patience. There are things to do in the meantime, however. I'm not terribly interested in paying $500 so someone can come out for an hour and calibrate it (at least for now), so could someone suggest some general 'out of the box' tweaks I can perform for a crisp (the demo units I've seen are a bit on the soft side for my taste) picture? I've read that Samsungs (and likely most other TVs) come with exaggerated bright levels so that they look good in a lit showroom. Are there any general rules to tone this down for viewing in a darkened/blackout environment? For now, my inputs will be PC over VGA and a PS2. I will be getting HD cable within a month, and a stand alone DVD player once I get sick of the PS2's DVD playback quality. Should I invest in component cables for my PS2? My main concern here isn't PQ but lag. What stand alone DVD player would owners of a xxx8 suggest to minimize audio lag, yet deliver a superior picture? What about a DVR choice for Comcast cable? Should I go with a cable card or box?

I'd also like to take this time to thank everyone here at the AVS forum! It's been years since I've first visited, and now that I can afford a 'boss' entertainment center, I feel that I've made one of the best informed big-ticket purchases of my lifetime.

Kudos to you all. To those of you with the questions, and those of you with all the answers.

-raab

they will eliminate virtually all internal cabinet reflections and unused space.

What is he doing, shooting expanding foam inside the unit? :P

It should be the same concept as ling the inside of a 1080i RP CRT set. I had that done with my old set and make a big difference in eliminating internal cabinet reflections. For the Samsung, they are supposed to be panels that fit the shape of the inside e of the set that can be removed. On my old 1080i set it was a cloth material.

Raab, why not use your PC as a DVD player? T2 is unbelievable on it. Get an HDMI cable from Ram if you get a HD STB DVR. Make sure you get the new stb.

D-Net is IEEE 1394, ie firewire, and works with compatible devices. I have my Motorola 6412 III DVR connected to it and it works fine.
UCSB, I haven't seen any info on this thread regarding connectiving this STB via firewire. I'd like to have more info on how you have this connection configured and your experience with it. I use Comcast and will have a similar box connected to my 5078 when it arrives next week

Hi Guys,

I just bought a HL-R5688W and I haven't really found too much feedback on TV other than the Audio LAG issues through the AV Reciever. I am getting Directv HD w/ DVR setup next weekend and the TV arrives this weekend. Does anyone have any thoughts or reviews on things like how SD channels on DirectTV look on this unit. I only had a chance to look at HD content so I really have no clue.

Thanks for any help!!

Hi Guys,

I just bought a HL-R5688W and I haven't really found too much feedback on TV other than the Audio LAG issues through the AV Reciever. I am getting Directv HD w/ DVR setup next weekend and the TV arrives this weekend. Does anyone have any thoughts or reviews on things like how SD channels on DirectTV look on this unit. I only had a chance to look at HD content so I really have no clue.

Thanks for any help!!
Hey Todd,I have the Direct Hooked up to HDMI and PC VGA.The SD channels are very exceptional.The HD is oustanding.I have had my set for 3 months and no problem to this point.The only adjustment i did was turn the gamma to zero wich improved PQ.I have seen little to none lip sinc.I seen it twice on DNET.I use a Teac avr that has up to 35m sec delay.But never have a need to use it.I am very pleased With my purchase and results of TV.Its an awesome device.Wish it was bigger

Hey Todd,I have the Direct Hooked up to HDMI and PC VGA.The SD channels are very exceptional.The HD is oustanding.I have had my set for 3 months and no problem to this point.The only adjustment i did was turn the gamma to zero wich improved PQ.I have seen little to none lip sinc.I seen it twice on DNET.I use a Teac avr that has up to 35m sec delay.But never have a need to use it.I am very pleased With my purchase and results of TV.Its an awesome device.Wish it was bigger


That is awesome! Thanks for the feedback. I have been trying to do some research on this thing. the retail chain GoodGuys is going out of business so I had to buy the TV on the spot and didn't get a chance to do a lot of research in advance.

What is the difference between the 88 series and the 85 series? I have seen extensive reviews on that model but not on the 88. Is the 88 too new to see alot of writeups about it?

Thanks Again! You made my day!!

That sounds like the device Eliab from Avical uses. Not for sure though. I'll have to ask him again when he is here this week. I will take pictures of the Removable Velux/Foamcore-board panels that I am having him install. They are supposed to greatly improve the black level and increase the contrast ratio by nearly 10%, since they will eliminate virtually all internal cabinet reflections and unused space.

I would be interested in hearing about how the panels work. I might consider installing them on my set.

Here is a picture of what the installation will look like once it is complete. Reminds me of the noise reduction kit I put in my HTPC ... which was very easy to install.

Picture: http://www.avical.com/V-panels.jpg

UCSB, I haven't seen any info on this thread regarding connectiving this STB via firewire. I'd like to have more info on how you have this connection configured and your experience with it. I use Comcast and will have a similar box connected to my 5078 when it arrives next week

Generally, you should use the HDMI output on the 6412 III (phase III) or the DVI (to HDMI output) on the 6412. The 6412 III has a problem with taking DD 5.1 sound down to 2 channels when the HDMI cable is being used. So I stepped back to component cables until Comcast can release firmware 12.22 that fixes the problem. I tested the 1394 connection to the Samsung to see how it works ... and it does work. But, you are better off staying with HDMI (or DVI) and componet because you get the messages from the DVR over these connections. The 1394 digital picture is not as good as the HDMI picture ... so there is no reason to use the 1394 connection for normal viewing. I just thought it was an interesting experiment.

Generally, you should use the HDMI output on the 6412 III (phase III) or the DVI (to HDMI output) on the 6412. The 6412 III has a problem with taking DD 5.1 sound down to 2 channels when the HDMI cable is being used. So I stepped back to component cables until Comcast can release firmware 12.22 that fixes the problem. I tested the 1394 connection to the Samsung to see how it works ... and it does work. But, you are better off staying with HDMI (or DVI) and componet because you get the messages from the DVR over these connections. The 1394 digital picture is not as good as the HDMI picture ... so there is no reason to use the 1394 connection for normal viewing. I just thought it was an interesting experiment.
UCSB Thanks. I won't worry about the 1394 as a real option then. My STB will actually be a 6200 due to peculiarities of Comcast's system here in the city of Dallas (a 2 wire cable that they won't adapt to the 6400 series) so it will be DVI to HDMI. Since they offer a cable card for free I might try that as well to see if there's a difference in PQ (and no lip synch issue to an AVR).

Hi Everyone, :)
I was gone for 2 months and now I am back. You guys came a long way in two months. Very nice help that you have posted in the last 2 months. I will use some of it to help my systems (6178 and 5688) out. I just finally got a new 5688 replacement and works well. Remember my old one smoked. OUCH!!!
Well, I ran both my units for 1,000 hours and all run well. No rainbow effects, lag time or shadows. :)

I would be interested in hearing about how the panels work. I might consider installing them on my set.

Here is a picture of what the installation will look like once it is complete. Reminds me of the noise reduction kit I put in my HTPC ... which was very easy to install.

Picture: http://www.avical.com/V-panels.jpg

Thanks for the Pic. I had no idea that the inside looked like that. So much space left. This is a good way to see how the panels work. Let me know what you find out. Thx. ;)

Bill, I have both DVI-HDMI and component hookups. I also have both RCA and optical out of the 6412 STB. When I switch to the HDMI2 source on the TV I get no sound unless I turn on my AV amp to the optical input. Is this what happens with your setup? Thanx

I have noticed that the more you use the Samsung DLP sets, the better the PQ gets over time. I guess that it takes sometime to burn in the light bulb. My Blacks are even blacker now and my color is sharper and brighter, then before.

PROBLEM DEFINITION: When switching inputs the brightness or dynamic range of the picture is less than expected. This results in a degraded picture. I will have to wait until this evening to tell if it is the actual dynamic range of the image or just the brightness that is being affected. My guess is that the dynamic range is being reduced and this is a big problem!!!


The problem is affecting the dynamic range of the picture ... and is significant!!!! I would say that when the problem is present that you are not getting any better performance out of these sets than a 720p model. Once set correctly, it will seem like you have a new TV .... thankfully, the performance I paid for and was expecting is now present. I will be reporting and working with Samsung on this problem first thing tomorrow morning. I'll keep everyone posted on what Samsung's approach.

Bill, I am experiencing this problem when I switch between VGA and HDMI. Have you made any progress with Samsung on this issue? Does anyone have the discrete codes for the picture modes (Movie, Custom, Dynamic, Standard)? I'm hoping I can email them to Logitech so they can add them to the HL-RXX68W Harmony 880 configs. Thanks

Bill, I have both DVI-HDMI and component hookups. I also have both RCA and optical out of the 6412 STB. When I switch to the HDMI2 source on the TV I get no sound unless I turn on my AV amp to the optical input. Is this what happens with your setup? Thanx
I get audio over the HDMI cable when connected to HDMI2. In fact, both the optical audio to reciever and HDMI audio work (but, on the 6412 III some of the audio is two channel to reciever ... just a temporary bug that Comcast will fix).

Bill, I am experiencing this problem when I switch between VGA and HDMI. Have you made any progress with Samsung on this issue? Does anyone have the discrete codes for the picture modes (Movie, Custom, Dynamic, Standard)? I'm hoping I can email them to Logitech so they can add them to the HL-RXX68W Harmony 880 configs. Thanks

I have submitted this problem directly to Dan S. Samsung's DLP product manager, he then submitted to Samsung engineering. They are working on it. I'll check on it in a week or two.

I have the codes for the picture modes ... but, they are on a different computer, I can post them later.

It should be the same concept as ling the inside of a 1080i RP CRT set. I had that done with my old set and make a big difference in eliminating internal cabinet reflections. For the Samsung, they are supposed to be panels that fit the shape of the inside e of the set that can be removed. On my old 1080i set it was a cloth material.

where can you buy this Velux/Foamcore material as blanks to cut to shape?

thanks!

Raab, why not use your PC as a DVD player? T2 is unbelievable on it. Get an HDMI cable from Ram if you get a HD STB DVR. Make sure you get the new stb.

I'm afraid I understand everything except "from Ram"... Also was planning on using the HTPC for DVD use, but was thinking a stand alone with a digital connection would give me a better picture.... Though I'm not sure I could tell the difference. I was considering getting 2 capture cards, one for my cable connection, and the other with component. That was I could have a DVR, DVD player, and a console passthru with no worries of lag from anything.

Ram is one of the HDMI suppliers here on this site. They have great prices. Nothing beats a PC DVD player. Also afaik there is no lag from VGA.

where can you buy this Velux/Foamcore material as blanks to cut to shape?

thanks!

I can't answer your question but the ISF calibrator in Orlando installs something called Duvetyne Lining witch appears to be something simular. I have not seen this myself.

He also installs a Neutral Density Filter, has anyone heard of doing this on these TVs?

I can't answer your question but the ISF calibrator in Orlando installs something called Duvetyne Lining witch appears to be something simular. I have not seen this myself.

He also installs a Neutral Density Filter, has anyone heard of doing this on these TVs?

Duvetyne is a black, velour-type material used in theaters and in TV production. Cutters are usually made with this fabric. It is heavy and very black. One side is velour-type.

I don't know why you would install an ND filter. It simply reduces the light output. It does not change contrast or colors, hence the term "neutral".

Park

After waiting three months beyond the original expected delivery date, I have now received a HL-R7178W 71" unit via Tweeter. It seems that due to design changes, this model was delayed compared with other models. The TV seems to be working fine.

When you get the chance, let us hear a report of how you're liking the 7178. Specifically, do you like the screen? Any other things you noticed that seem different from the other Sammy 1080p's?

Has anyone actually taken the foot off their set? I know it is supposed to come off and I have removed the two screws at the tabs and still couldn't figure how to get it off. Do more than the two screws at the tabs need to be removed?

Thanks :confused:

Has anyone actually taken the foot off their set? I know it is supposed to come off and I have removed the two screws at the tabs and still couldn't figure how to get it off. Do more than the two screws at the tabs need to be removed?

Thanks :confused:

I took my foot off the 6178. I had to fuss with it for sometime and then it came off. There are only two screws and the tabs, that is all. My slid off from the front of the TV.
The samsung Web site says this. But it doesnt make sense to me.
http://erms.samsungusa.com/customer/sea/jsp/faqs/faqs_view.jsp?isARS=Y
"You can not remove the pedestal on your DLP TV. If you do, you will void the warranty and make the TV inoperable."

It is easier to remove the base with two people. You might have to give the base a smack to get it loosened.

Has anyone tested the firewire inputs for 1080P? Is there anyway to test this with a PC? My HTPC has a firewire output, I don't know what software I would need to output a 1080P signal over the firewire output on the PC.

I've asked Kevin Miller to give me more info and I'll post it when I get it. I believe this equipment is relatively new and only calibrators willing to spend the $11,000 will be using it. If I remember correctly, I don't think anything was attached to the set, I think it was just a camera that sits on a tripod that takes readings based on the picture from the set and then the computer in the camera provides all the recommended changes to the SM.



Eliab uses a "Spectroradiometer" (among other equipment). I believe that is the real expensive piece of equipment. Sort of looks like an old full size VHS camcorder to me.

It is easier to remove the base with two people. You might have to give the base a smack to get it loosened.

Also when you tug hard on the base, pull/slide to the front. This should remove it. Mine did.

Do you think you should take the foot off if you are not using the sammy stand, so that the TV lies flat?
Also, Bill, any idea why I'm not getting sound over HDMI2?

Do you think you should take the foot off if you are not using the sammy stand, so that the TV lies flat?
Also, Bill, any idea why I'm not getting sound over HDMI2?

I would never take the stand off if you are using a stand either from Samsung or any other brand. I think the foot creates stability for the TV that is front heavy.
I took mine off because the TV sits into a wall custom designed unit. So the base is not needed. My TV looks like a picture now, it has that wall picture effect.

It depends on how you want you TV to look. I think that the base adds more support for the bottom of the unit.

I took my base off because I wanted the weight distributed across the width of my stand, instead of the middle(no center support in the front). Plus the base adds a couple of inches to the height which made it too high on my 19" stand.

Do you think you should take the foot off if you are not using the sammy stand, so that the TV lies flat?
Also, Bill, any idea why I'm not getting sound over HDMI2?

You are running your Motorola 6412 with a DVI to HDMI cable. DVI does not support audio, so your DVI to HDMI cable is only carrying video. If you want audio on your TV, run two RCA audio cables from the audio out jacks on the 6412 to the DVI audio IN jack on the TV.

Has anyone actually taken the foot off their set? I know it is supposed to come off and I have removed the two screws at the tabs and still couldn't figure how to get it off. Do more than the two screws at the tabs need to be removed?

Thanks :confused:

From the FAQ's:

19. How do you remove the pedestal base on the HLR series tabletop units? Comments supplied by LostGator (AVSforum Member)

Ok, after looking at removing the base a little more, I finally got it. Basically, remove the 2 screws on the back of the unit which hold the base on (you'll see what I mean when you see it). Push down the two tabs on the base until you hear a click or can see they're free of the main unit. Gently tap the the base from the front. This will push the base toward the back and it will just slide off. Even easier than the HLP's 10 screws, once you know how to do it.

This seems to be a little different than some of the other comments, if it is wrong, please let me know.

Has anyone tested the firewire inputs for 1080P? Is there anyway to test this with a PC? My HTPC has a firewire output, I don't know what software I would need to output a 1080P signal over the firewire output on the PC.

I have tried this but to no avail.thr puter reconizes its a samsung dlp,but then it asks for an av/c monitor driver.I called Sammy and Gateway on this matter but neither had an answer for me.I wanted to see if I could use it instead of a tuner card.So I gave up.There was some discussion in the HTPC forum but no real answers.So now I have a $35 firewire collecting dust.

Hi, I have a 6768 and ive been noticing on the screen these colored dots that show up on any source. Its usually against solid backgrounds like the sky or a wall. Now I know its not a dead pixel and i know its not on the outside. Its either the interior of the screen or some dust particles on the lens. Did anyone else have this problem? And how can I contact Samsung so they can send in a tech to my house to fix it? Thanks!

That is awesome! Thanks for the feedback. I have been trying to do some research on this thing. the retail chain GoodGuys is going out of business so I had to buy the TV on the spot and didn't get a chance to do a lot of research in advance.

What is the difference between the 88 series and the 85 series? I have seen extensive reviews on that model but not on the 88. Is the 88 too new to see alot of writeups about it?

Thanks Again! You made my day!!

Here is a flash manual of the 88
http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/MM/200212/um_hlr5688w_start_eng_051220.htm
And this is the Spec manual
http://product.samsung.com/SamsungUSA/PRODUCT/20050713/HLR5087W_5688W_spec.pdf
There is also a stand for it TR85 a lil pricey but raps around the TV like a glove

Hi, I have a 6768 and ive been noticing on the screen these colored dots that show up on any source. Its usually against solid backgrounds like the sky or a wall. Now I know its not a dead pixel and i know its not on the outside. Its either the interior of the screen or some dust particles on the lens. Did anyone else have this problem? And how can I contact Samsung so they can send in a tech to my house to fix it? Thanks!

I believe that is what's called the Silk Screen Effect(SSE). It is caused by the screen and you see a sparkly effect especially on a white background. All the sets have them except the 7178 since it has a different screen. The SXRD sets have it also along with the other 1080P dlp sets. The alternative is to have a screen which is very reflective like the 7178 which to me is worse to look at.

OK, I finally got the base off. As I expected and as several of you confirmed, remove the two screws at the tabs in the back and then push the base from the front of the set toward the back of the set. Mine was very tight, just keep working one side and then the other and it will finally break loose and come off. Thanks for the help!

Schaffer970, did the screws have paint on them or anything that might determine if the screws had been removed and later replaced? I don't know how they would know if the screws were removed otherwise as far as not voiding the warranty unless there were bolts or something on the inside, which are now loose? Someone said the warranty would be void but I think that would need to be clearly stated in the manual or maybe a sticker next to the screws?

Has anyone tested the firewire inputs for 1080P? Is there anyway to test this with a PC? My HTPC has a firewire output, I don't know what software I would need to output a 1080P signal over the firewire output on the PC.

As the Samsung high end CSR explained to me: The TV is expecting "handshaking" from the firewire connected source. In his words, "We never expected anyone to connect the TV directly to a computer." His words. Doesn't mean it will not work.

Remember, according to the manual, the set is expecting MPEG-II only through firewire.

A small, but consistent occurrence

Somewhere is the first 10-15 minutes of being on, my 6768 will flash a distorted frame. I know it is the TV because it 1)happens consistently and 2) is not there when a recorded source (e.g. DVD or DVR) is played back again over the same "offending" area.

The flash is very quick and happens only once. I'm still trying to decide if this is a "reportable to Samsung" issue.

J.

The statement about taking the pedestal off is referring, I believe, to the HLR-xx87/88 or Kirk models. Removing what is called the "cover stand" on the bottom of the piece, is extremely unlikely to void your warranty. In any case there is nothing on the screws and from what I can tell it would be impossible to tell if it had been removed.

The statement about taking the pedestal off is referring, I believe, to the HLR-xx87/88 or Kirk models. Removing what is called the "cover stand" on the bottom of the piece, is extremely unlikely to void your warranty. In any case there is nothing on the screws and from what I can tell it would be impossible to tell if it had been removed.

Samsung spec's the 68/78 series TVs height with and without the stand ... I am positive that they expect some people to remove the support. It is OK.

So everyone sees the Silk Screen Effect and not have a problem with it? Cause it irritates me everytime I see it which is alot. How would I contact Samsung for tech support?

Borhan, you could try adjusting the picture or having the set professionally calibrated but it isn't a tech support issue since it is what it is. I guess if you don't like it you should return the set? I don't see how they can tell you to do something with the screen when they are all like that? You do notice it the most when using a PC since the PC screen is white most of the time.

In other words, the screen itself is designed with those dots on the screen, that is the screen and the screen is filled up with those dots, not just in certain places that you happen to notice from time to time. You might try adjusting the lighting in the room, moving a lamp or moving the set to reduce noticing it.

So everyone sees the Silk Screen Effect and not have a problem with it? Cause it irritates me everytime I see it which is alot. How would I contact Samsung for tech support?


The opposite is worse for me if I see all the reflections. I can still see some reflections on the current screen and if it was any worse it would really bother me. I have grown accustomed to the SSE and it was on all the other 1080P sets I saw in BB. The Sony, Mitsubishi, and the Toshiba. They all seemed to have the SSE to the same degree.

So everyone sees the Silk Screen Effect and not have a problem with it? Cause it irritates me everytime I see it which is alot. How would I contact Samsung for tech support?

What is your screen size and viewing distance? Is there a lot of light in the room? It's not a problem for me (56" @ 10 feet).

Silk screen effect I think is only on large, bright white areas of the screen? It doesn't appear on off white, cream, or other darker whites. Most text in commercials or news is not bright white. I did notice one commercial it appeared in briefly on the text. The PC screen is uniform and static, that's why you see it on the entire screen.

A small, but consistent occurrence

Somewhere is the first 10-15 minutes of being on, my 6768 will flash a distorted frame. I know it is the TV because it 1)happens consistently and 2) is not there when a recorded source (e.g. DVD or DVR) is played back again over the same "offending" area.

The flash is very quick and happens only once. I'm still trying to decide if this is a "reportable to Samsung" issue.

J.

I see the same thing periodically on my 6168. I'm in wait and see mode. :/

When reading the HLR6768 manual, I noticed in order to swap the PIP with the main view that there are several keystrokes needed to get into the menu and do it.....EACH TIME a swap is done.

For years I have enjoyed a single button swap of PIP and main screen. THis is the most used function on my SONY RPTV behind the channel up/down button.

Does the Samsung allow this feature by some programmable button on the remote?
Or can a 1 button swap be programmed on another mfr programmable remote.?

Any thoughts appreciated.

After having a dead 6168 sitting in my living room for more than a month, I'm happy to report my replacement has jut been delivered. It will be nice to rejoin this thread.

I've been dealing with their shipper, Pilot Air and they have been great. My first and second set were damaged during shipping.

They're so great they damaged the first and second set while they shipped it. Pilot Air is right next to my office suite. I wouldn't want them pushing my $4500 television through walls.

I took my base off because I wanted the weight distributed across the width of my stand, instead of the middle(no center support in the front). Plus the base adds a couple of inches to the height which made it too high on my 19" stand.

That makes much sense. It depends on the height of the stand that you are using. When you by the stand from Samsung TXSB2 model it is only 17 inches tall. So leaving the base on would add more height and stability.

Schaffer970, did the screws have paint on them or anything that might determine if the screws had been removed and later replaced? I don't know how they would know if the screws were removed otherwise as far as not voiding the warranty unless there were bolts or something on the inside, which are now loose? Someone said the warranty would be void but I think that would need to be clearly stated in the manual or maybe a sticker next to the screws?

Samsung said that the warranty would be voided, but this is simply not true because there are no markings are the screws itself. Also Samsung like other companies always state that the warranty is voided if you do anything to the unit no matter wat product you by. They say this, so then they can bill you for a repair, even if it has nothing to do with the part you removed. This is how most companies work. When you call for service, never tell them that you removed the base. This should have no effect on how the TV works and therefore will not cause other things to go out.
The screws that remove the base are holding nothing else inside the TV that I can see. But who knows, maybe it holds the bottom panel of the TV from the inside, since the screws look long enough and are very tightly installed. Looks like lock-tight to me was put onto the screw. It has a blue color on the end of the screw indicating (lock-tight liquid).

A small, but consistent occurrence

Somewhere is the first 10-15 minutes of being on, my 6768 will flash a distorted frame. I know it is the TV because it 1)happens consistently and 2) is not there when a recorded source (e.g. DVD or DVR) is played back again over the same "offending" area.

The flash is very quick and happens only once. I'm still trying to decide if this is a "reportable to Samsung" issue.

J.

This is not normal in my book. I dont have this on my two TV's. What does the flash look like in color? Maybe it is the signal source. What sources are on when this flash happens? Sometimes, the DVD HDMI cable will do this, I have heard of this before. But not consistently unless if the player had a problem.

Borhan, you could try adjusting the picture or having the set professionally calibrated but it isn't a tech support issue since it is what it is. I guess if you don't like it you should return the set? I don't see how they can tell you to do something with the screen when they are all like that? You do notice it the most when using a PC since the PC screen is white most of the time.

In other words, the screen itself is designed with those dots on the screen, that is the screen and the screen is filled up with those dots, not just in certain places that you happen to notice from time to time. You might try adjusting the lighting in the room, moving a lamp or moving the set to reduce noticing it.

I use to notice that my TV did that, however I installed two little lights that are 25 watt bulbs MR16 above my TV and no more silky screen look. Adjusting the lighting in the room will totally help this out. It did for me.

My lights are sitting on top of my entainment center shinning down onto the front of the TV just above a picture. Like a picture lamp, it looks cool and does two jobs at once. I have a dimmer on it, to reduce the light to 20 watts for both bulbs.
Hope this helps.

Maxiter, you're right, looking back that great is not the best word since my ordeal has been documented here from start to finish. After over a month of hassles and three sets later, what I meant was that TVA was horrific. I wouldn't recommend them at all unless price was the only factor and you assume you will have better luck than me. They never returned phone calls, never kept me up to date on the status of my replacements, nothing. The only thing they did was take my credit card info and get me a good price. I thought for $4k including the extended warranties, I'd get better service than a used car dealer, no offense. So yes, it was entirely Pilot's fault, however they were great about taking care of it.

I know its not the lighting cause I see it even when all the lights are off. I have a 6768 and sit a little more than 17 feet away from it. I have never seen something like this with any other HDTV. Its like very small red dots that dont move that show up on very light images like the sky and sometimes peoples faces. Im might go to Frys and see if I notice it on their 1080p samsungs.

I know its not the lighting cause I see it even when all the lights are off. I have a 6768 and sit a little more than 17 feet away from it. I have never seen something like this with any other HDTV. Its like very small red dots that dont move that show up on very light images like the sky and sometimes peoples faces. Im might go to Frys and see if I notice it on their 1080p samsungs.

I think that you got a bad TV set. The display units dont do this. I never seen this before. I think that you got a bad light engine or color wheel. Something in the TV is causing this. You might need to call Samsung to repair this unit. Under warranty?

When reading the HLR6768 manual, I noticed in order to swap the PIP with the main view that there are several keystrokes needed to get into the menu and do it.....EACH TIME a swap is done.

For years I have enjoyed a single button swap of PIP and main screen. THis is the most used function on my SONY RPTV behind the channel up/down button.

Does the Samsung allow this feature by some programmable button on the remote?
Or can a 1 button swap be programmed on another mfr programmable remote.?

Any thoughts appreciated.

I whole heartedly second these thoughts. PIP is difficult to use if you need to have multiple key strokes to flip it back and forth. Perhaps a new remote with the proper codes would take care of this.

jpe

Fellow HLRXXXXW DLP Owners. We have an opportunity to get a message directly to samsung. Specifically, in regards to DNIe. As many of you know disabling DNIe is not possible on the latest incarnation of Samsung DLP Displays, and if you have talked to any calibrators then you know that this is not a good thing. DNIe inhibits these DLP from truly being the best Displays on the market, and is the cause of many of the edge, and shadow artifacts that we are seeing.
I have a contact in the calibration business that will have Samsung's ear(Up close, an personal) in about a week and a half to two weeks.

Please take a second and sign this petition. i need as many signatures as i can getIt only takes a second ...thanks~Joe



http://www.thepetitionsite.com/takeaction/212553992











hey guys..can you please sign this petition. i really need some more signatures before it can be brought in forn tof samsung. thanks

I whole heartedly second these thoughts. PIP is difficult to use if you need to have multiple key strokes to flip it back and forth. Perhaps a new remote with the proper codes would take care of this.

jpe
\
I wonder if anyone has done this? Does it swap instantaenously? or do you see it crawl through the setting even when done as a macro?

\
I wonder if anyone has done this? Does it swap instantaenously? or do you see it crawl through the setting even when done as a macro?
I have an IR code that does a PIP swap ... so it exists. But, I am away from my computer with my IR codes.

I know its not the lighting cause I see it even when all the lights are off. I have a 6768 and sit a little more than 17 feet away from it. I have never seen something like this with any other HDTV. Its like very small red dots that dont move that show up on very light images like the sky and sometimes peoples faces. Im might go to Frys and see if I notice it on their 1080p samsungs.


I have a 6768 and the SSE reminds me of the sandy look of the old projector screen, no red dots. You may want to have it checked. I see it whenever there is a white backgroud and it seem worse directly in front of me where I am looking strait through the screen. I find this much better that the refective screen on my older 60" Mitsubishi however. I really like my TV.

I have an IR code that does a PIP swap ... so it exists. But, I am away from my computer with my IR codes.

thats cool. So there is single samsung code you can program into a programmable remote to do that. not a big nested macro then?

Jhixson, you beat me to it. I figured most people here only know VHS, not film projectors. It is exactly the same look if you are familiar with the old screens. As I recall there are red and other color dots. The colored dots appear floating in front of or on top of the picture. The effect has a sort of glossy, glass, shimmer like look to it. Note that this effect is only on the this specific bright area, no matter how large or small the area is, not the entire screen. It took me a month to notice it and I also notice RBE now that I didn't before.

I just saw it on the Nextel commercial where the screen is taxi yellow.

Hey guys! I just got my Sammy 6768 tv from TVauthority!! I'd like to say that tvauthority is amazing, ordered on Wednesday and received my tv in excellent condition exactly 1 week later on wednesday! I will definately buy from them again!

Now the only thing I am missing is the tv stand. However, should I get the tv stand made especially for the 67 inch or get some other type of stand?? I've heard the quality of the stand is cheap, and not only that, it costs 300 bucks!? So anyone stands you guys recommend? Thanks in advance!

Hi, I have a 6768 and ive been noticing on the screen these colored dots that show up on any source. Its usually against solid backgrounds like the sky or a wall. Now I know its not a dead pixel and i know its not on the outside. Its either the interior of the screen or some dust particles on the lens. Did anyone else have this problem? And how can I contact Samsung so they can send in a tech to my house to fix it? Thanks!

Can you post a picture? You may not be seeing silk screen effect.

thats cool. So there is single samsung code you can program into a programmable remote to do that. not a big nested macro then?

Yes ... a single code, it swaps the pictures immediately.

Yes ... a single code, it swaps the pictures immediately.
I may be missing something, but I'm not sure what the advantage is of PIP anyway b/c if you are using a STB with HDMI and the internal HD Tuner, you can't use PIP. Am I right that PIP will not work with any HD channel and can really only be used with SD channels either via component or NTSC? If that's the case, it really is of no use to me. Are others finding it useful?

I may be missing something, but I'm not sure what the advantage is of PIP anyway b/c if you are using a STB with HDMI and the internal HD Tuner, you can't use PIP. Am I right that PIP will not work with any HD channel and can really only be used with SD channels either via component or NTSC? If that's the case, it really is of no use to me. Are others finding it useful?

Thats true. The Samsung manual does do a good job of explaining that PIP will not work in certain formats and configurations and wont work with HDTV format. If you search the .pdf manual (downloadable online) using the search term "swap" you will find the limits in that area.

However, the vast majority of my viewing is via cable, which has little HDTV content compared to the qty of standard channels. For the last 12 years I have enjoyed very much the PIP swap with my Sony RPTV XBR 57". It is the most used button on my remote behind the channel up/down button.

Yes ... a single code, it swaps the pictures immediately.
ok. I assume I will have to use an after market programmable remote for this? How does one program the "swap" feature to a button?

thanks!

I may be missing something, but I'm not sure what the advantage is of PIP anyway b/c if you are using a STB with HDMI and the internal HD Tuner, you can't use PIP. Am I right that PIP will not work with any HD channel and can really only be used with SD channels either via component or NTSC? If that's the case, it really is of no use to me. Are others finding it useful?

I find no use for PIP since I use everything HDMI and DVI inputs. My PIP would work, but I would need to have two Satelite receivers and that I will not do, no need for me to have PIP especially if you need to use that many buttons on the remote just to see the PIP. What a hassle. Someone should petition that, just like they are about the DNIe on/off feature.

ok. I assume I will have to use an after market programmable remote for this? How does one program the "swap" feature to a button?

thanks!
I have a swap button on my Sat receiver remote and use that to do my "SWAP". I dont use my Samsung remote because of how hard it is to do a Swap.
I would recommend a universal remote to ease the operations of the Samsung TV and/or Sat receiver.

I can't get the PIP to work on my Comsucks remote? Anyone try it?

ok. I assume I will have to use an after market programmable remote for this? How does one program the "swap" feature to a button?

thanks!

I can send you the IR code as any of the following: 1) actual Philips Pronto IR code; 2) Samsung HEX vaule; 3) Samung DECIMAL value. Unfortunately, I have been using highly programmable (on a PC) remotes for many years and do not know very much about less expensive remotes. Perhaps a Harmony user could comment on whether the swap function is in the Harmony data base. You can research remotes on remotecentral.com.

Just a couple of observations on the 6768 (it was delivered yesterday)...
TV Authority order and delivery was fine (although the box was open). Cost me an extra $20 though to have them take it out of the box and put it on the stand so I could make sure it worked.
Picture is great - SD is fine (cable and Directv) and HDTV is beautiful (discovered accidentally by plugging basic Comcast into the back and scanning). Even Leno is almost worth watching...
Audio lag is very bad. I thought maybe I wouldn't notice, or that a 1080i signal from the Oppo would be ok, but it was unwatchable. Not being much of an audiophile I'm playing audio through the TV to the HT receiver which is ok for me.
Directv upgrade of the dish and DVR did not happen - the sat position is too low for my line of sight. Kind of relieved though, I don't think the guy knew what he was doing. Guess I'll just live without HD DVR for a while - hopefully there will be something available before the World Cup...
I'm surprised that the picture modes are so limited for HD feeds - not sure why I can't resize some of the semi-HD pictures from WB and FOX that are presented with side bars. Watching letterbox stuff with black on all four sides seems ludicrous.
All in all it's a very impressive looking box in my family room and a joy to watch. Can't help feeling a little ripped off though at that price. Maybe I'll feel better when there's more HD content, and I can record it...

Just a couple of observations on the 6768 (it was delivered yesterday)...
TV Authority order and delivery was fine (although the box was open). Cost me an extra $20 though to have them take it out of the box and put it on the stand so I could make sure it worked.
Picture is great - SD is fine (cable and Directv) and HDTV is beautiful (discovered accidentally by plugging basic Comcast into the back and scanning). Even Leno is almost worth watching...
Audio lag is very bad. I thought maybe I wouldn't notice, or that a 1080i signal from the Oppo would be ok, but it was unwatchable. Not being much of an audiophile I'm playing audio through the TV to the HT receiver which is ok for me.
Directv upgrade of the dish and DVR did not happen - the sat position is too low for my line of sight. Kind of relieved though, I don't think the guy knew what he was doing. Guess I'll just live without HD DVR for a while - hopefully there will be something available before the World Cup...
I'm surprised that the picture modes are so limited for HD feeds - not sure why I can't resize some of the semi-HD pictures from WB and FOX that are presented with side bars. Watching letterbox stuff with black on all four sides seems ludicrous.
All in all it's a very impressive looking box in my family room and a joy to watch. Can't help feeling a little ripped off though at that price. Maybe I'll feel better when there's more HD content, and I can record it...

I feel your pain. I think that the letterbox and sideband effect is due to the cable input. I tried changing my settings on the TV, but no luck on changing this setting.
The TV is a good one, but I think the price needs to be lower for what you get (minor problems and then some large ones).

Two other observations:
- No rainbow effect
- Sidebars are noticeably bowed. I think I read that some geometry problems are normal on a projection TV so I guess I have to live with that too...

Two other observations:
- No rainbow effect
- Sidebars are noticeably bowed. I think I read that some geometry problems are normal on a projection TV so I guess I have to live with that too...

I still feel your pain. I have no Rainbow effect either, which is good. I also dont have any geometry problems. All my sidebands and bars are aligned properly. I see from time to time the top band rises a little more on the right of the TV, only on movies.

Can't help feeling a little ripped off though at that price. ..

What was the price?

I can send you the IR code as any of the following: 1) actual Philips Pronto IR code; 2) Samsung HEX vaule; 3) Samung DECIMAL value. Unfortunately, I have been using highly programmable (on a PC) remotes for many years and do not know very much about less expensive remotes. Perhaps a Harmony user could comment on whether the swap function is in the Harmony data base. You can research remotes on remotecentral.com.

OK. thanks. I dont have one yet, but plan to get a programmable remote that I can use the PC to program. So when I get one, hopefully I can get it figured out.

thanks again

What was the price?
$4,495... don't tell the wife

Did that include an extended warranty? What was Mags price?

$4,495... don't tell the wife
OUCH!!! That must hurt. :o

I can't get the PIP to work on my Comsucks remote? Anyone try it?
aye.. more on the PIP poop... a call to Comsucks got me the reply that on their deployment of the Motorola 6412 STBs, PIP is NOT enabled.
Yes, the 6412 CAN (and mine does) have TWO TUNERS.
But the only feature that works is swappin full screen between the two tuners, but NO PIP.

The Two Tuners DO allow simultaneous recording of 2 diff channels, or viewing and recording diff shows at the same time.
Why PIP was not enabled is beyond me.

Any word on whether the "Mark III" versions recently introduced are capable of this?

$4,495... don't tell the wife
Seems kind of high for a XX68 series. Did it come with an extended warranty?

Gkotlan, that's the stb I have, with HDMI. No PIP. Do you think that is a firmware issue or deactivated on purpose? I don't see how it is available and not working? I think it has to do with Comsucks more than Moto.

aye.. more on the PIP poop... a call to Comsucks got me the reply that on their deployment of the Motorola 6412 STBs, PIP is NOT enabled.
Yes, the 6412 CAN (and mine does) have TWO TUNERS.
But the only feature that works is swappin full screen between the two tuners, but NO PIP.

The Two Tuners DO allow simultaneous recording of 2 diff channels, or viewing and recording diff shows at the same time.
Why PIP was not enabled is beyond me.

Any word on whether the "Mark III" versions recently introduced are capable of this?

No .. on PIP on the 6412 III.

Gkotlan, that's the stb I have, with HDMI. No PIP. Do you think that is a firmware issue or deactivated on purpose? I don't see how it is available and not working? I think it has to do with Comsucks more than Moto.

PIP has never been implement on the Motorola 6412 ... perhaps in the future. But, then again many of the features on the 6412 have not been used and are like placeholders (USB, 1394 storage, SATA storage, etc.).

Hi All,

I just bought my 5678w Samsung awsome price at Good Guys (close out sell), PQ awsome no lag just perfect. I've read my post on what is the best setting for the Gamm...brightness..etc. Now that I have my TV the post are to long to go back and look for them.

Can anyone post it again or show me where to look for it an how to go to the Gamm setting process

Thanks...

$4,495... don't tell the wife

LOL

First BIG Problem Identified ???


Thanks Jake!!! Your observation allowed me to tie down a nagging problem / doubt that I have had since my 5668 had arrived. I just didn't feel that the brightness (dynamic range) was right. I spent some time working with Samsung initially, but could not clearly define the problem and put the work on hold ... now I think it can be defined.

PROBLEM DEFINITION: When switching inputs the brightness or dynamic range of the picture is less than expected. This results in a degraded picture. I will have to wait until this evening to tell if it is the actual dynamic range of the image or just the brightness that is being affected. My guess is that the dynamic range is being reduced and this is a big problem!!!

For example, if you change from HDMI 1 to HDMI 2, the picture on HDMI 2 is not right. If you change back to HDMI1, the picture on HDMI 1 is not right. So as you change between your inputs you are always looking at a picture that is off. Once it starts, nothing will stop this from occuring.

EXTENT OF PROBLEM: The picture is dgraded from it's optimal performance levels, but still looks OK/good. This problem would not be noticed by a user that did not know exactly what these monitors should look like.

All picture modes (standard, movie, ...) seem to be effected.

Owners may feel that picture is not as good as they expected ... and they would be right.

EXPECTED CAUSE: Firmware bug.

POSSIBLE TRIGGERING EVENT: Unknown, but possibly any adjustment of the user PQ settings would be enough to setup and trigger the problem. Once started, there does not appear to be a way to stop it.

SERIOUSNESS: EXTREMELY SERIOUS

REQUIRED FIX: Firmware Upgrade, currently unavailable.

WORKAROUND: Issuing a IR discrete code for the picture mode you are currently using. For example, if you are in STANDARD picture mode, issue the discrete code for Standard picture mode. The picture will immediately change ... lighten (expanded dynamic range?).

If anyone can confirm this problem or has any additional insights, please post.

I apologize if this has been answered already but I didn’t catch any posts regarding a solution to this several week old problem. I have this problem with my 6168 and would love to know there is a solution.

I apologize if this has been answered already but I didn’t catch any posts regarding a solution to this several week old problem. I have this problem with my 6168 and would love to know there is a solution.

I have sent this problem directly to Dan S., Samsung's DLP product manager, (he is taking over for Steve P.). Dan has indicated that he has sent the problem into Samsung engineering, but I have not heard about a resolution yet. I will give Samsung another week or so and then contact Dan about any progress.

Here is the exact description that I submitted to Samsung:

I am writing you because I have noticed something about how the new 1080p HLRxxx8W sets work that may not be right and might be widespread. I feel that this is a problem that you will want to understand and resolve at your level because it may be degrading the performance on every set you are shipping.

To describe the problem, I will focus on the HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 inputs. But, your engineers should check all inputs for this problem. When switching to either HDMI 1 or HDMI 2 from another input (TV, component1, component2, HDMI 1, HDMI 2, etc.) the picture will be darker and have less dynamic range than it should. At this point, if you issue the discrete IR command for the picture mode that you are using (ie. DF for standard mode) the TV will reset standard mode and the picture will appear lighter and have better dynamic range. There is a firmware bug in the sets that causes a picture mode error when initially switching to a HDMI input. I believe it is significantly degrading the picture. The difference is enough to cause problems for Samsung when people are comparing 1080p sets in the stores and for owners of these sets.

In addition to issuing the IR command to reset the picture mode, users may be able to reset the picture mode performance by going into the picture mode settings area on the MENU and exiting. I am not as sure about this approach, but it may work and be something that tech support can suggest until a firmware fix is available (but, it would have to be done each time you turn on the set or switch an input).

Now the only thing I am missing is the tv stand. However, should I get the tv stand made especially for the 67 inch or get some other type of stand?? I've heard the quality of the stand is cheap, and not only that, it costs 300 bucks!? So anyone stands you guys recommend? Thanks in advance!

I just got my 5678, with the optional stand (the one that gives you the option of having black or silver front legs). I wouldn't recommend it if you have a HT setup. I only have a dvd player, and a Denon 3805 and I'm already out of room. I have to put my 3805 (40ish pounds on relatively weak glass) side by side with my pioneer POS dvd player (1/2 pound) in order to fit my Polk LSI center under the TV. I will be upgrading the stand as soon as I pay off the 3.4k TV (or as soon as I win another arm wrestling match with the wife :D ). To be honest the stand is decent quality, and if I had another place to put the center channel I wouldn't be complaining.

UCSB
Thanks for quick reply. Keep us posted.

I just got my 5678, with the optional stand (the one that gives you the option of having black or silver front legs). I wouldn't recommend it if you have a HT setup. I only have a dvd player, and a Denon 3805 and I'm already out of room. I have to put my 3805 (40ish pounds on relatively weak glass) side by side with my pioneer POS dvd player (1/2 pound) in order to fit my Polk LSI center under the TV. I will be upgrading the stand as soon as I pay off the 3.4k TV (or as soon as I win another arm wrestling match with the wife :D ). To be honest the stand is decent quality, and if I had another place to put the center channel I wouldn't be complaining.

Thanks for the reply! I've already decided to go out to Ikea and buy a $99 tv stand instead of the samsung. The quality isn't bad at all, so I'm pretty happy with the purchase and besides I have another 200 bucks to spend :D

RoosterD, I had trouble finding that stand. Most places only had the silver one. I ended up getting a Bush for $320 that fits a 56" and 61" probably. It is huge and has three shelves and can fit in the corner like that model. It is metal and smoked glass. I'm thrilled for the price. Can you return your stand?

Thanks for the reply! I've already decided to go out to Ikea and buy a $99 tv stand instead of the samsung. The quality isn't bad at all, so I'm pretty happy with the purchase and besides I have another 200 bucks to spend :D

That Oppli stand at Ikea works extemely well for these sets.

Sorry, mine was $220, hard to beat for the materials and size.

That Oppli stand at Ikea works extemely well for these sets.

haha, thats what I actually got! It was the last one in the inventory too.

Here are some of the IR codes that have been requested recently. All codes are given in Pronto code.

PIP Swap:
0000 006D 0000 0022 00AC 00AC 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0715

Standard Picture Mode:
0000 006D 0000 0022 00AC 00AB 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0680

Movie Picture Mode:
0000 006D 0000 0022 00AC 00AB 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0680

Dynamic Picture Mode:
0000 006D 0000 0022 00AC 00AC 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0715

So I am surprised after reading all 224 pages in this thread no-one has seen what I see with these sets.

So a tech from Tweeter told me my 5078 uses 2 screens. 1 is circular and 1 is vertical. If you stand close (say 2 feet) from the TV and turn on the menu and look at th words "select the input option" you will see the words ghosted behind them in an off-white color.

No that is fine and if I move away I can't see it. However, I think this same effect causes fast motion pictures where there is a high contrast bright image (like say a hand or a torch or someones face) that is moving against a black background to show hints of a ghost like image that will radiate out and away. So as an example in the Drumline DVD. If you go to the scene when they are anouncing it is a tie and they show the two music directors (the first one is the guy in purple) and then the director of the band whose uniforms are blue and yellow (I should really look up the time code) you will notice he is wearing white gloves. He waves his hand in the air above his head and when he does that if you look to the left you will see a faint white image moving in the opposite direction away from his hand.

I'm thinking of getting a calibrator out here to verify that this is just not right for any DLP television. it is very faint and admittedly I can make myself see the rainbow effect as well by shifting my eyes around. I see this all the time in programs like Alias and Lost where there are faces against a black background or a torch on a black screen. If the image is moving slow, it is so faint you dont' really see it, but the example of his hand moving is perfect because it causes motion. Another test is if you find a video with something white against the bottom right of the screen (like a book in front of someone) and they turn the page you can see an image move on the left side of the screen faintly. It almost looks like a focus problem or a problem with the polarization of the screen to me.

I went to tweeter and burned a DVD with the Alias episode I originally noticed this on and I could see it on their screen as well. I even had the sales guys seeing it.

Now here is the catch, if you view the TV slightly below eye level (where your eyes are slightly above the midpoint of the TV) and directly in front it is almost impossible to see. My viewing angle is about 30 degrees from center and slightly below the midpoint as my built-in is to the side of my room. From that angle it is becoming unwatchable to me. However it is still visible from the center once you've seen it. If you have trouble seeing it, sit on the floor to the left and below the screen and watch something that fits what I have described.

It does not matter the source (HD OTA Channel, HD Tivo, SD Tivo, AVEL Linkplayer, Oppo DVD player) and it doesn't matter witch input you are using (Svid, HDMI, Component) so I know it is not my components and it is not a particular source. I've even removed the input through my Onkyo NR1000 reciever and hooked the HDMI directly. Anyway, I didn't need to do that because again it happens even on the OTA tuner.

On another note, has anyone found an AV-HDD to hook to the 1394 port on this otherwise awsome television.

hey guys im a brand new hdtv user..been using hd for less then a week...just one question..how do i get 5.1 sound from directv channels in hd? ...this is what i did...i hooked up an optical cable from my reciever to the directv hd box..is this right?? what bout the optical out on the tv?? im confused bout all this audio connections..

gaston

Here are some of the IR codes that have been requested recently. All codes are given in Pronto code.

PIP Swap:
0000 006D 0000 0022 00AC 00AC 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0715

Standard Picture Mode:
0000 006D 0000 0022 00AC 00AB 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0680

Movie Picture Mode:
0000 006D 0000 0022 00AC 00AB 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0680

Dynamic Picture Mode:
0000 006D 0000 0022 00AC 00AC 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0715

very cool....thanks.. Im saving it. Pronto might be a good one too for me.thanks agaign

hey guys im a brand new hdtv user..been using hd for less then a week...just one question..how do i get 5.1 sound from directv channels in hd? ...this is what i did...i hooked up an optical cable from my reciever to the directv hd box..is this right?? what bout the optical out on the tv?? im confused bout all this audio connections..

gaston

That should be it! Put the receiver in the right mode (DD 5.1) and the right input (the input is the one you connected the optical cable to - most AVRs have multiple optical inputs). Good luck.

so far all my connections are right..but when i put a channel on with the dolby digital logo..sound keeps coming out of the tv speakers..but the reciver is getting the dd 5.1 soundtrack...but nothing comes out of sorround spekears..wierd!!

forgot to say, the directv tech connected the hd box using the component cables...video and audio..should i unhook the audio cables..from the tv and leave the optical going out to reciever?

forgot to say, the directv tech connected the hd box using the component cables...video and audio..should i unhook the audio cables..from the tv and leave the optical going out to reciever?

First, use the TV remote to turn down the audio on the TV. Now use your receiver's remote to turn the receiver up to an appropriate level. Make sure that the sat box is not muted and the receiver is not on mute. Also, make sure your receiver is set to the same input that you plugged the optical digital cable into. If all of this does not work, check your directv audio settngs and seek advice in the directv threads.

RoosterD, I had trouble finding that stand. Most places only had the silver one. I ended up getting a Bush for $320 that fits a 56" and 61" probably. It is huge and has three shelves and can fit in the corner like that model. It is metal and smoked glass. I'm thrilled for the price. Can you return your stand?

I'll check that out. Thanks for the info, and I have 30 days to take it back. :)

So I am surprised after reading all 224 pages in this thread no-one has seen what I see with these sets.

So a tech from Tweeter told me my 5078 uses 2 screens. 1 is circular and 1 is vertical. If you stand close (say 2 feet) from the TV and turn on the menu and look at th words "select the input option" you will see the words ghosted behind them in an off-white color.

No that is fine and if I move away I can't see it. However, I think this same effect causes fast motion pictures where there is a high contrast bright image (like say a hand or a torch or someones face) that is moving against a black background to show hints of a ghost like image that will radiate out and away. So as an example in the Drumline DVD. If you go to the scene when they are anouncing it is a tie and they show the two music directors (the first one is the guy in purple) and then the director of the band whose uniforms are blue and yellow (I should really look up the time code) you will notice he is wearing white gloves. He waves his hand in the air above his head and when he does that if you look to the left you will see a faint white image moving in the opposite direction away from his hand.

I'm thinking of getting a calibrator out here to verify that this is just not right for any DLP television. it is very faint and admittedly I can make myself see the rainbow effect as well by shifting my eyes around. I see this all the time in programs like Alias and Lost where there are faces against a black background or a torch on a black screen. If the image is moving slow, it is so faint you dont' really see it, but the example of his hand moving is perfect because it causes motion. Another test is if you find a video with something white against the bottom right of the screen (like a book in front of someone) and they turn the page you can see an image move on the left side of the screen faintly. It almost looks like a focus problem or a problem with the polarization of the screen to me.

I went to tweeter and burned a DVD with the Alias episode I originally noticed this on and I could see it on their screen as well. I even had the sales guys seeing it.

Now here is the catch, if you view the TV slightly below eye level (where your eyes are slightly above the midpoint of the TV) and directly in front it is almost impossible to see. My viewing angle is about 30 degrees from center and slightly below the midpoint as my built-in is to the side of my room. From that angle it is becoming unwatchable to me. However it is still visible from the center once you've seen it. If you have trouble seeing it, sit on the floor to the left and below the screen and watch something that fits what I have described.

It does not matter the source (HD OTA Channel, HD Tivo, SD Tivo, AVEL Linkplayer, Oppo DVD player) and it doesn't matter witch input you are using (Svid, HDMI, Component) so I know it is not my components and it is not a particular source. I've even removed the input through my Onkyo NR1000 reciever and hooked the HDMI directly. Anyway, I didn't need to do that because again it happens even on the OTA tuner.

On another note, has anyone found an AV-HDD to hook to the 1394 port on this otherwise awsome television.

That sounds like it could be from internal reflections which I definitely see on the set. Eliab was here there other day and was going to install the Removable Velux/Foamcore-board panels, which will improve blacks and contrast ratio by eliminating the internal reflections. Unfortunately he ran into technical problems. Thsi was the first 68 series he for him to install the panels on. The 68 series is different from the 78 series in the way the internal cabinet and screen mounting are designed. He was here several hours and was able to figure out a way for the the panels to be installed on the 68 series but it would require a few extra tools that aren't required on the 78 series. Just to get the screen off took a while to figure out. The 79 series bezel just comes right off without having to remove any screws, but my 68 series has over 2 dozen screws in it, most that don't even need to be there. We only reinstalled the screws that really need to be there to keep the frame and bezel on. Eliab is going to be coming back here in December to install the panels for me. He was still able to do the other tweaks, like ring focus, which made a huge difference in the picture. You could see it get much sharper. That combined with being able to turn off DNIe in the service menu makes a huge difference in the picture. There was a big improvement when he was finished and that was without the panels installed. Once the panels are installed I can see where it will make a difference also without the internal reflections off the shiny pieces inside, the metal that's exposed and the gray interior. Once the panels are installed it will be all black inside so nothing can reflect.

I've attacched a picture of what the inside, behind the screen looks like.

Seems kind of high for a XX68 series. Did it come with an extended warranty?

That is what Crutchfield and OneCall wanted for it last month.
Shipped but not extended warranty included.

So, is this a normal procedure for a tech to perform. I am in Dallas/Ft Worth area and I'm assuming Eliab is in the North East.

I'm glad it just isn't my set if anyone can be happy about seeing this.

Here are some of the IR codes that have been requested recently. All codes are given in Pronto code.


Thanks Bill!

Mcfcok, did you get the price of Mag. and Tweeter? I guess that is a good price with free shipping and no tax considering the weight and price.

UCSB, is it possible to add all of these codes and other info for these sets on the first page? There are the pronto codes, hex and whatever other remote codes there are. There is also the SM code, suggested settings like Gamma to zero and how to find the firmware version. There are probably more codes I can't think of? You could also add the tips for connecting a PC like an inexpensive VGA cable and can only use VGA. I'm not even sure if any of this is mentioned there already but it would be good to have one place for all of this, as a suggestion.

That is what Crutchfield and OneCall wanted for it last month.
Shipped but not extended warranty included.
They are good companies so you got a good price. I still feel that the sets could be a little better for that price. It seems to me like people here are making it better by adding things to the set inside and in fact having it calibrated. Why should we all spend an extra $400.00 or more to do all this, when the sets should of be made like this already. Would you agree?

Oh, I think that needing calibration is a scam. But these are fairly new sets and there is plenty of last year's 61" non 1080p DLPs on the market that the price is fair.

I paid around $3500 shipped and was happy when I saw One Call's price, which they wouldn't budge on.

Oh, I think that needing calibration is a scam. But these are fairly new sets and there is plenty of last year's 61" non 1080p DLPs on the market that the price is fair.

I paid around $3500 shipped and was happy when I saw One Call's price, which they wouldn't budge on.
I agree with the scam part, that is why I am not getting mine calibrated, because it works well for me. I have no problems with both my sets. I think every set is made just a little differently to read 224 pages of all different problems.
However, the 1080p and the 720p sets are a big diifernence is viewing at different angles, and the color/constrast are also way different. I am glad that I bought the 1080p, for an extra $700.00 it is WELL worth it.

My 5678 arrived on wed, and so far I've been extremely happy with it. Sadly, the only inputs I have at the moment is a PS2 and my PC. The PS2 looks great and is a blast to play. Using the component input, I haven't noticed any amount of lag on a couple different games. There are, however, 1" black bars on either side of the screen, but an online search suggests that this is a rather universal 16:9 PS2 problem that has no fix. Or at least I couldn't find a fix. I've also noticed, while playing GT4, every once in a while something gets a bit scrambled. It's like every other line of an interlaced picture isn't synched vertically. I've only really noticed this on text at a few certain times, so I'd also chalk this one up to the PS2 (Although I thought it did 480p output via component. Is this untrue, or does it just depend on the game?).
As for computer via VGA input, I'm really impressed with the PQ. 1365x768 results in a sizeable amount of overscan (almost a taskbar's width on all sides) 1920x1080 displays the entire desktop, save for maybe 4 or 5 columns of pixels on the left hand side. Text in both modes is clear and mostly crisp (slightly blurred edges can be noticed from just a few feet away). For these tests I was not using powerstrip, only the default desktop settings, so I'm guessing the minimal overscan shouldn't be a problem to fix. Another problem I ran into had to do with both resolutions I tried in VGA mode. The image displayed left a black 1.5" boarder around the entire picture. Is this something other HTPC + HLR xxx8 users just put up with, or might this have more to do with my older ATI 9600 Radeon Pro? I was hoping to be able to run all external components thru an HTPC (PS2, Cable) connected via VGA so I wouldn't have to worry about any audio lag issues (among other reasons). Could someone with a HTPC hookup verify or deny that this problem is persistent with newer video cards?
Overall, though, quite a stellar set! I can't wait till the cable guy gets here and bask in HDTV glory!

Yesterday I went to HD Expo here in LA. One of the exhibit was a "Blue-Ray" player that plays 1080P. It is a custom job from Video Production Specialists. The recording of your material is your problem. They will provide you with the specs and, I think, a referral to those that can actually make the transfer. Player cost = $5000.

They also had a Joe Kane produced set-up DVD for 1080P playback. Maybe you can negotiate that as a freebie.

They said more info was available at their website. I went and looked, but it isn't there.

http://www.videoproductionspecialists.com

My 5678 arrived on wed, and so far I've been extremely happy with it....

Another problem I ran into had to do with both resolutions I tried in VGA mode. The image displayed left a black 1.5" boarder around the entire picture. Is this something other HTPC + HLR xxx8 users just put up with, or might this have more to do with my older ATI 9600 Radeon Pro? I was hoping to be able to run all external components thru an HTPC (PS2, Cable) connected via VGA so I wouldn't have to worry about any audio lag issues (among other reasons). Could someone with a HTPC hookup verify or deny that this problem is persistent with newer video cards?
Overall, though, quite a stellar set! I can't wait till the cable guy gets here and bask in HDTV glory!

Congrats on the new set. What "image" are you referring to? Your desktop should fill your entire screen. DVD or TV playback will vary due to the source format. If you set your display driver to 1920x1080@60Hz then adust the picture size on the TV to the maximum (p.size button, right most icon), you will get a 1:1 mapping that is nice and crisp. There will be about a half taskbar of overscan all the way around.

I apologize if this has been answered already but I didn’t catch any posts regarding a solution to this several week old problem. I have this problem with my 6168 and would love to know there is a solution.

I have a very similar problem, but I thought I'd make this post b/c my set behaves in a way that is the opposite of the way described by Bill. As a result, I thought it would make sense to post a detailed description of my problem since others may be experiencing a similar problem. Here it is:

Whenever I switch inputs and then hit the discrete code on my Pronto remote for the standard picture mode, my picture will darken. Similarly, whenever I turn my set off and turn it back on, it comes on with that darker picture, even if I had turned it off with the correct (brighter) picture (please note that this "darkness" when I turn the set on is NOT b/c the picture needs to warm up, I understand that and have done this diagnostic after turning on the set and waiting about 15 minutes). In order to bring the picture back to the desired brightness, I need to switch inputs and then switch back to the input I want to watch. Then, once the brightness level is correct, I can continue to switch inputs and everything remains fine, as long as I don't send a discrete code for the standard (or any other) picture mode.

In order to fix this issue, I have set up two macros on my Pronto remote. Each time I turn my set off, before it shuts off, I have set up a macro that has the set switch inputs (I have it switch to PC) before shutting down. This results in that other input (the PC input) being the active input when I turn my set back on. Then, each time I turn my set on, I have another macro that has the set switch back to HDMI 1 (which is the input that I typically use; of course I needed to add about a 10 second delay to make this work). Once it switches from PC to HDMI 1, the set's brightness returns and remains until I shut it off, as long as I don't enter a discrete code for any of the picture modes.

The reason I have said that this is the opposite problem that some others have experienced is that for others, sending the picture mode discrete code returns the brightness, while for me, pressing that code eliminates the brightness. This is likely due to my set's being professionally calibrated and the calibration being done after switching inputs, and without resetting any of the picture modes.

If anyone else has similar results or is experiencing a similar problem, it may help to post the results in this thread.

So I am surprised after reading all 224 pages in this thread no-one has seen what I see with these sets.

So a tech from Tweeter told me my 5078 uses 2 screens. 1 is circular and 1 is vertical. If you stand close (say 2 feet) from the TV and turn on the menu and look at th words "select the input option" you will see the words ghosted behind them in an off-white color.

No that is fine and if I move away I can't see it. However, I think this same effect causes fast motion pictures where there is a high contrast bright image (like say a hand or a torch or someones face) that is moving against a black background to show hints of a ghost like image that will radiate out and away. So as an example in the Drumline DVD. If you go to the scene when they are anouncing it is a tie and they show the two music directors (the first one is the guy in purple) and then the director of the band whose uniforms are blue and yellow (I should really look up the time code) you will notice he is wearing white gloves. He waves his hand in the air above his head and when he does that if you look to the left you will see a faint white image moving in the opposite direction away from his hand.

I'm thinking of getting a calibrator out here to verify that this is just not right for any DLP television. it is very faint and admittedly I can make myself see the rainbow effect as well by shifting my eyes around. I see this all the time in programs like Alias and Lost where there are faces against a black background or a torch on a black screen. If the image is moving slow, it is so faint you dont' really see it, but the example of his hand moving is perfect because it causes motion. Another test is if you find a video with something white against the bottom right of the screen (like a book in front of someone) and they turn the page you can see an image move on the left side of the screen faintly. It almost looks like a focus problem or a problem with the polarization of the screen to me.

I went to tweeter and burned a DVD with the Alias episode I originally noticed this on and I could see it on their screen as well. I even had the sales guys seeing it.

Now here is the catch, if you view the TV slightly below eye level (where your eyes are slightly above the midpoint of the TV) and directly in front it is almost impossible to see. My viewing angle is about 30 degrees from center and slightly below the midpoint as my built-in is to the side of my room. From that angle it is becoming unwatchable to me. However it is still visible from the center once you've seen it. If you have trouble seeing it, sit on the floor to the left and below the screen and watch something that fits what I have described.

It does not matter the source (HD OTA Channel, HD Tivo, SD Tivo, AVEL Linkplayer, Oppo DVD player) and it doesn't matter witch input you are using (Svid, HDMI, Component) so I know it is not my components and it is not a particular source. I've even removed the input through my Onkyo NR1000 reciever and hooked the HDMI directly. Anyway, I didn't need to do that because again it happens even on the OTA tuner.

On another note, has anyone found an AV-HDD to hook to the 1394 port on this otherwise awsome television.

What you are seeing is just probably internal, secondary reflections in the TV. DLP's have always had these reflections because some small percentage of the projected light can be reflected off the screen and other internal component.

Thanks UCSB,

My wife can't ever even see it. There is obviously a way for Sammy to get rid of this on their high end sets (BTW I see it on a Mitsubish 1080P also) and I think it is made worse by the crisp detail in the picture.

Obviously they would only need to manufacture all the casing and metal internal parts in matte black and we wouldn't have the screen reflecting light back to parts in the TV then reflecting back to the screen.

It does explain why the image moves the opposite direction of motion and why on slow scenes you just can't see it.

Thanks UCSB,

My wife can't ever even see it. There is obviously a way for Sammy to get rid of this on their high end sets (BTW I see it on a Mitsubish 1080P also) and I think it is made worse by the crisp detail in the picture.

Obviously they would only need to manufacture all the casing and metal internal parts in matte black and we wouldn't have the screen reflecting light back to parts in the TV then reflecting back to the screen.

It does explain why the image moves the opposite direction of motion and why on slow scenes you just can't see it.

If it is any comfort, I think it was much worse in prior years. This year I think they have pretty much minimized it. The effect will be more easily noticed the smaller the TV, because they have brighter spec's. Consider it a side effect of the nice bright 50" set ... you can probably reduce the effect by going to a larger set. :)

Congrats on the new set. What "image" are you referring to? Your desktop should fill your entire screen. DVD or TV playback will vary due to the source format. If you set your display driver to 1920x1080@60Hz then adust the picture size on the TV to the maximum (p.size button, right most icon), you will get a 1:1 mapping that is nice and crisp. There will be about a half taskbar of overscan all the way around.

I must be getting old... I decided to break out the manual, and for once it actually solved my problem! I got slightly worried when I got to the part that explains "WidePC scales the picture to 92% of the TV screen regardless of the aspect ratio and input source." However, with just a few minutes using Psize, I was able to get the desktop to fit absolutely perfect. Both left to right and top to bottom. Very minor pincushioning on the right side and bottom left, but so slight i doubt anyone but myself would really notice it. Absolutely no overscan and a PQ that would be comparable to 1:1 picture mapping (i believe 1:1 is an impossibility with DLP, since the pixels are actually diamond-shaped). After playing a bit of HL2 at 1920x1080 I can't even describe how happy I am with this purchase. It's well worth the price of admission, and then some!

GT4 on PS2 (http://www.myfilestash.com/userfiles/raab/pics/IMG_5480_1024x6768.jpg)

HL2 @ 1920x1080 (http://www.myfilestash.com/userfiles/raab/pics/IMG_5512_1024x768.jpg)


Now I just have to build my HTPC... Could someone suggest an afordable component capture card?

I have a 6768 with the stand that fits the samsung (I think it'sa Bush?). It's the stand that can have the gray or black legs. Anyone with that stand and a 6768 notice any sagging in the center of the long crossbar where the weight of the tv is?

I swear mine has a slight downward bow in the center.

Oh, I think that needing calibration is a scam. But these are fairly new sets and there is plenty of last year's 61" non 1080p DLPs on the market that the price is fair.

I paid around $3500 shipped and was happy when I saw One Call's price, which they wouldn't budge on.
The pre calibration picture doesn't come close to the post calibration picture. The picture is awesome now, especially without DNIe active. I'm sure the results will depend on the calibrator, but Eliab is definitely one of the best. I'll have to take some more pictures and post them this weekend. The pictures on my website are great and now it's even better. When Eliab installs the panels in December it will even improve further.

I have an HTPC connected via firewire (DNet) to my week old 6178 (9/05 manufacture). The TV wants to honor the broadcast flag. There isn't perhaps a setting in the service menu to fix this, is there? I only understand 0.5% of what is in the service menu. :rolleyes:

AVCVideoCap has not worked for me in this case.

The pre calibration picture doesn't come close to the post calibration picture. The picture is awesome now, especially without DNIe active. I'm sure the results will depend on the calibrator, but Eliab is definitely one of the best. I'll have to take some more pictures and post them this weekend. The pictures on my website are great and now it's even better. When Eliab installs the panels in December it will even improve further.

I assume you hope to have your VP30 by then. I was surprised you had it tweaked before then. I am waiting to replace my HD before calibration. I also believe there are few thinks that can't be improved with expertise.

Let's see if this makes sense to people...

I think this is the Pronto code to access the service menu:

0000 007C 0000 0022 00A9 00AB 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0014 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0014 0016 0015 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0014 0016 003F 0016 003F 0015 0703

However, it needs to be entered after you are in the "Info" screen.

So, here are the steps to turn off DNIe (This is all from memory, I'm not at home at the moment, so hopefully the steps are all correct!!)

1. With TV on, push "Info" button on remote
2. Enter the above Pronto code to access the service menu
3. Arrow down once to select DNIe menu
4. Arrow right once to enter the DNIe menu
5. Arrow up 4 times (I think!) to select DNIe entry (it will say "OFF" but it isn't! You need to toggle it on and then back off for it to be truly off)
6. Arrow right twice to toggle DNIe ON and then OFF
7. Push "Menu" button on remote to exit DNIe selection
8. Push "Menu button on remote again to exit the DNIe screen
9. Enter the above Pronto code to exit the Service Menu screen


That's it. Every time you change Source, or switch the TV off and then back on DNIe will revert to being ON, so you will need to follow the above procedure to turn it OFF again.
:)

Naz and I have worked out the problems with the Pronto code and getting access to the service menu.

Here is a good Pronto IR code to access the service menu:
0000 006D 0000 0022 00AB 00AB 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0715

The trick, which was discovered by Naz is that you need to issue this code right after you push the INFO button. I haven't checked the DNIe portions of the process yet, that will have to wait for the weekend. But, I thought someone else might want to give it a try and report back results.

I would like to remind everyone that SM changes need to be done with the most care. There is no way to go back to the values prior to a change. I would not touch the SM unless you have clear, readable digital photos of every screen you enter BEFORE you touch anything. If you are unsure about what you are doing, it is probably a good idea not to go to the SM.

The pre calibration picture doesn't come close to the post calibration picture. The picture is awesome now, especially without DNIe active. I'm sure the results will depend on the calibrator, but Eliab is definitely one of the best.

I'm trusting your judgement, Aaronwt. David Abrams (Avical-LA) is paying me a visit next week.

It would be great if someone had pics of a DVD at the same spot with the same camera and lighting of before and after calibration so you could see a difference.

Naz and I have worked out the problems with the Pronto code and getting access to the service menu.

Here is a good Pronto IR code to access the service menu:
0000 006D 0000 0022 00AB 00AB 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0715

The trick, which was discovered by Naz is that you need to issue this code right after you push the INFO button. I haven't checked the DNIe portions of the process yet, that will have to wait for the weekend. But, I thought someone else might want to give it a try and report back results.

I would like to remind everyone that SM changes need to be done with the most care. There is no way to go back to the values prior to a change. I would not touch the SM unless you have clear, readable digital photos of every screen you enter BEFORE you touch anything. If you are unsure about what you are doing, it is probably a good idea not to go to the SM.

This process does work as Naz with this code works gr8t.Now if we can get aaronwt to fess up how Eliab keeps it off it would be a beautiful day in the neighborhood.It does revert back to on after power off-on.But is a step in the right direction.

The pre calibration picture doesn't come close to the post calibration picture. The picture is awesome now, especially without DNIe active. I'm sure the results will depend on the calibrator, but Eliab is definitely one of the best. I'll have to take some more pictures and post them this weekend. The pictures on my website are great and now it's even better. When Eliab installs the panels in December it will even improve further.
I agree that calibration makes a huge difference. Aaronwt - One question - have you experienced the "input" issue that many of us have experienced? It's where switching inputs causes the PQ to deteriorate unless you re-select your picture mode. If so, how are you dealing with that?

One additional piece of info I would like to post on this issue is that, for me, this problem does NOT happen when I switch from HDMI 2 to HDMI 1 (or from HDMI 2 to any other input for that matter) and only happens when I switch inputs other than HDMI 2 (and happens with each other input). I know Bill has reported that it does happen for him when he switches one HDMI input for the other HDMI input, so I'm not quite sure why it does not happen on those input switches with my set. The only thing that may have something to do with it (although I have no idea how or why) is that when my calibration was done, all the SM menu changes were done while in HDMI 2. Does Bill or anyone else have any thoughts?

UCSB - thanks again. I would have bought the biggest set I could if my place to put it wasn't the size it was. I had to take the knobs off the door to squeezzzzzzzeeeeee it in. I think what I need is Eliab's panels and then I'll be even happier with this set.

For those discussing the dimming. For me it happens on Component1 but never on either HDMI port. It happened to theh point I went agead and use my reciever to upconvert all signals to HDMI except my SD Tivo and it is using S-video. I don't watch that component that much, but my wife and son do and they don't like the image streched so I leave that input on 4:3.

This process does work as Naz with this code works gr8t.Now if we can get aaronwt to fess up how Eliab keeps it off it would be a beautiful day in the neighborhood.It does revert back to on after power off-on.But is a step in the right direction.

To leave the SM do you just enter the code again, or do you need to press info first? I did it by just entering the code and I got a message "Aging" across the top of my screen. Other than telling me I'm getting old (which I alredy knew), what does that mean?

Yunzer, the Sammy stand is not made by Bush. I think I would either return it or just the shelf. If it is warped it will only get worse. I can't imagine it warped that fast so maybe it is the way it was built or maybe the shelf is defective?

You press Power to exit the SM. If you press Power twice you should be able to exit the SM and go back to regular TV without a power off/on cycle.
I'm talking about leaving the SM by using the new Pronto discrete code. With that I don't think you need to power off, I think you can just use the discrete code.

To leave the SM do you just enter the code again, or do you need to press info first? I did it by just entering the code and I got a message "Aging" across the top of my screen. Other than telling me I'm getting old (which I alredy knew), what does that mean?

Enter the code twice. That'll exit the SM and then clear the "Aging" text

Naz and I have worked out the problems with the Pronto code and getting access to the service menu.

Here is a good Pronto IR code to access the service menu:
0000 006D 0000 0022 00AB 00AB 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0715

The trick, which was discovered by Naz is that you need to issue this code right after you push the INFO button.

To embelish a bit on what Bill (UCSB) said...

CAUTION!! MAKING CHANGES IN THE SERVICE MENU CAN SERIOUSLY DEGRADE THE PERFORMANCE OF YOUR TELEVISION. THE PROCEDURES OUTLINED BELOW ARE FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY AND SHOULD ONLY BE USED IF YOU ARE EXTREMELY CAREFUL AND KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING (or have a devil-may-care attitude and can hire a professional to fix any mistakes you make. :D )

SERVICE MENU ACCESS

You will need a programmable remote control into which you can program Pronto codes.

Here is the Pronto code that enters and exits the Service Menu:

0000 006D 0000 0022 00AB 00AB 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0715

Program that code to a button on your remote, lets call it the SM_Access button. You will also need to have the Info button from the original Samsung Remote Control handy (or the IR code from it programmed to your new remote control)

To access the Service Menu press the Info button followed by the SM_Access button IN QUICK SUCCESSION. The TV will blink, if you are in
4:3 mode it will switch to 16:9 mode, and then a couple of seconds later the Service Menu will show up. NOTE: You need to press the SM_Access button IMMEDIATELY after pressing the Info button - a wait of just a second or two and the SM_Access button will have no effect!

To exit the Service Menu, press the SM_Access button. The Service Menu disappears and the text "Aging" appears on the screen. Press the SM_Access button again to clear the "Aging" text.

Moving around within the Service Menu is done in a similar manner to moving around the Regular Menu: the Up-Down arrows change the menu selection, the Right arrow key enters the new menu/selection and then the Left/Right arrows change the value of the selection. Exiting a selection or menu is done with the Menu button on the original Samsung Remote Control. When you are at the top level of the Service Menu you exit using the SM_Access button as outlined above.



TURNING DNIe OFF

DNIe reverts to being ON whenever the Source input is changed and whenever the TV is powered off. This is true, even though the Service Menu lists DNIe as being OFF. This means that the "old" way of exiting the Service Menu (turn power off and wait for 30 seconds) forces DNIe to an ON state, no matter what changes were made in the Service Menu. Now that we can exit the Service Menu without turning the TV off, we can turn DNIe off and watch the TV with DNIe off.

Here's the procedure:

1. Switch to the source you want to view with DNIe off.
2. In quick succession, press the Info Button followed by the SM_Access button.
3. Wait a couple of seconds for the Service Menu to appear.
4. Press the Arrow Down button once to highlight the DNIe menu selection
5. Press the Right Arrow button once to enter the DNIe menu
6. Press the Arrow Up button 4 times to select the DNIe On/Off entry (even if it says OFF it isn't! You need to toggle the setting ON and then OFF)
7. Press the Right Arrow button once to enter the DNIe selection. The menu will disappear and you will be left with the DNIe selection in the top left of the screen.
8. Press the Right Arrow button to toggle DNIe ON and OFF. As you toggle DNIe ON and OFF you can see the effect it has on your source program on the screen. I find that with DNIe off, the picture looks a little softer and has much better detail in dark areas.
9. With DNIe OFF (making sure you have toggled DNIe ON and then OFF to force the selection to be correct) press the Menu button to exit the DNIe selection. This brings you back to the DNIe Menu screen.
10. Press the Menu button again to exit the DNIe Menu and return to the top level Service Menu
11. Press the SM_Access button to exit the Service Menu
12. Press the SM_Access button again to clear the "Aging" text.


Remember that changing the Source, or switching the TV off, reverts DNIe to an ON state, so the above procedure will need to be repeated to turn DNIe OFF again.

I don't bother with the procedure if I'm watching regular TV or just channel surfing, but if I'm going to be watching an HDTV channel or a DVD I'll use it to switch DNIe off.

Hopefully that helps people. If anyone sees any errors in the above let me know and I'll fix it.

Thanks again, Bill, for your help!

The pre calibration picture doesn't come close to the post calibration picture. The picture is awesome now, especially without DNIe active. I'm sure the results will depend on the calibrator, but Eliab is definitely one of the best. I'll have to take some more pictures and post them this weekend. The pictures on my website are great and now it's even better. When Eliab installs the panels in December it will even improve further.
Thanks for the update. I might want my TV's calibrated to. Who is Eliab? What city, and State is Eliab from? How much for the calibration?
Please post the pics.

Thanks.

To embelish a bit on what Bill (UCSB) said...

CAUTION!! MAKING CHANGES IN THE SERVICE MENU CAN SERIOUSLY DEGRADE THE PERFORMANCE OF YOUR TELEVISION. THE PROCEDURES OUTLINED BELOW ARE FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY AND SHOULD ONLY BE USED IF YOU ARE EXTREMELY CAREFUL AND KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING (or have a devil-may-care attitude and can hire a professional to fix any mistakes you make. :D )

SERVICE MENU ACCESS

You will need a programmable remote control into which you can program Pronto codes.

Here is the Pronto code that enters and exits the Service Menu:

0000 006D 0000 0022 00AB 00AB 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0715

Program that code to a button on your remote, lets call it the SM_Access button. You will also need to have the Info button from the original Samsung Remote Control handy (or the IR code from it programmed to your new remote control)

To access the Service Menu press the Info button followed by the SM_Access button IN QUICK SUCCESSION. The TV will blink, if you are in
4:3 mode it will switch to 16:9 mode, and then a couple of seconds later the Service Menu will show up. NOTE: You need to press the SM_Access button IMMEDIATELY after pressing the Info button - a wait of just a second or two and the SM_Access button will have no effect!

To exit the Service Menu, press the SM_Access button. The Service Menu disappears and the text "Aging" appears on the screen. Press the SM_Access button again to clear the "Aging" text.

Moving around within the Service Menu is done in a similar manner to moving around the Regular Menu: the Up-Down arrows change the menu selection, the Right arrow key enters the new menu/selection and then the Left/Right arrows change the value of the selection. Exiting a selection or menu is done with the Menu button on the original Samsung Remote Control. When you are at the top level of the Service Menu you exit using the SM_Access button as outlined above.



TURNING DNIe OFF

DNIe reverts to being ON whenever the Source input is changed and whenever the TV is powered off. This is true, even though the Service Menu lists DNIe as being OFF. This means that the "old" way of exiting the Service Menu (turn power off and wait for 30 seconds) forces DNIe to an ON state, no matter what changes were made in the Service Menu. Now that we can exit the Service Menu without turning the TV off, we can turn DNIe off and watch the TV with DNIe off.

Here's the procedure:

1. Switch to the source you want to view with DNIe off.
2. In quick succession, press the Info Button followed by the SM_Access button.
3. Wait a couple of seconds for the Service Menu to appear.
4. Press the Arrow Down button once to highlight the DNIe menu selection
5. Press the Right Arrow button once to enter the DNIe menu
6. Press the Arrow Up button 4 times to select the DNIe On/Off entry (even if it says OFF it isn't! You need to toggle the setting ON and then OFF)
7. Press the Right Arrow button once to enter the DNIe selection. The menu will disappear and you will be left with the DNIe selection in the top left of the screen.
8. Press the Right Arrow button to toggle DNIe ON and OFF. As you toggle DNIe ON and OFF you can see the effect it has on your source program on the screen. I find that with DNIe off, the picture looks a little softer and has much better detail in dark areas.
9. With DNIe OFF (making sure you have toggled DNIe ON and then OFF to force the selection to be correct) press the Menu button to exit the DNIe selection. This brings you back to the DNIe Menu screen.
10. Press the Menu button again to exit the DNIe Menu and return to the top level Service Menu
11. Press the SM_Access button to exit the Service Menu
12. Press the SM_Access button again to clear the "Aging" text.


Remember that changing the Source, or switching the TV off, reverts DNIe to an ON state, so the above procedure will need to be repeated to turn DNIe OFF again.

I don't bother with the procedure if I'm watching regular TV or just channel surfing, but if I'm going to be watching an HDTV channel or a DVD I'll use it to switch DNIe off.

Hopefully that helps people. If anyone sees any errors in the above let me know and I'll fix it.

Thanks again, Bill, for your help!

Thanks man, this is some good information. I will try this out.

This process does work as Naz with this code works gr8t.Now if we can get aaronwt to fess up how Eliab keeps it off it would be a beautiful day in the neighborhood.It does revert back to on after power off-on.But is a step in the right direction.

It doesn't stay off. If you switch to a different input, or turn the TV off the DNIe reverts to the on state. And you have to turn it off again. You will also have access to the NR feature which I used last night and it definitely helped some with a noisy HD picture.

Thanks for the update. I might want my TV's calibrated to. Who is Eliab? What city, and State is Eliab from? How much for the calibration?
Please post the pics.

Thanks.

Check him out here Avical (www.avical.com)

I have an HTPC connected via firewire (DNet) to my week old 6178 (9/05 manufacture). The TV wants to honor the broadcast flag. There isn't perhaps a setting in the service menu to fix this, is there? I only understand 0.5% of what is in the service menu. :rolleyes:

AVCVideoCap has not worked for me in this case.

Where did you get drivers so the PC could recognize the set?

I connected my 6168 and the PC tried to install the hardware but the drivers I got from the PC forum didn't work. I think they were for use with a Motorola box.

I assume you hope to have your VP30 by then. I was surprised you had it tweaked before then. I am waiting to replace my HD before calibration. I also believe there are few thinks that can't be improved with expertise.

This was the second time he was out here. I had him do a calibration at the beginning of September but he found out a lot of tweaks with the 5078 he was using since then and he came back out to apply what he had learned from the 78 series. It looked great after the first time, but even better now. I had hoped I would have the VP30 by now but it keeps getting delayed. the same thing happened to me a few years ago when I was waiting for the Holo3D graph2 to come out to replace my H3D1. It kept getting delayed and of course I got it right after the calibration. It actually works out to my advantage that Eliab will be coming back in December. That is if the VP30 will be out by then. Last I heard there was another delay to the end of November. I might have to pay the extra money to get overnight shipping to make sure I get as fast as possible so it will be here when Eliab returns. I really want to have it connected and have 480i from my Sony975 DVD player into the VP30 so it can do the scaling to 1080i and then Eliab can calibrated it that way. When I had my iscanHD i used it with an SDI player and it looked excellent with the HD upscaling that to 1080i on my old 1080i set. So I'm hoping the VP30 will be even better with the 1080P Sammys.

Where did you get drivers so the PC could recognize the set?

I connected my 6168 and the PC tried to install the hardware but the drivers I got from the PC forum didn't work. I think they were for use with a Motorola box.

I'm using a Mac (not sure if I made that clear or not) with the FirewireSDK v2 from Apple's Developer Site.

Works like a charm with Copy-Free and Copy-Once broadcasts, although I've still got a few scheduling issues to work out. I'd rather not spring for an EyeTV to be able to ignore broadcast flags.

That explains it then. It's not supposed to be very easy to hook it up to a Windows PC from what I've read. I just hope the Blu-Ray players will have that firewire output since most of their content is supposed to be MPEG2 initially. That would be excellent assuming the set will accept 1080P over the firewire input.

I don't bother with the procedure if I'm watching regular TV or just channel surfing, but if I'm going to be watching an HDTV channel or a DVD I'll use it to switch DNIe off.



First, thanks for posting the code, it is very useful. I did just want to point out that for anyone that is doing this, you should know that if you have made any changes to your user menu settings, every time you enter and leave the SM you will need to change them again b/c they reset to the factory defaults whenever you access the SM.

That explains it then. It's not supposed to be very easy to hook it up to a Windows PC from what I've read. I just hope the Blu-Ray players will have that firewire output since most of their content is supposed to be MPEG2 initially. That would be excellent assuming the set will accept 1080P over the firewire input.

My PC asks for a AV/C Monitor driver and I've read so much but little help like you said.Someone said a ways back that a tech never thought firewire would be hooked to a PC,well dugh,no one was thinking about our creativity lol.Also these panels you are inserting,what are they made of?Are they designed to fit or do you cut and retro fit em?And what are the cost of the of installation & labor.
Looked at your site,amazing pics.Rest of site was under construction though.

AVICAL Velux/Foamcore-board panels info (http://www.avical.com/News.htm)

OK, I'm down to the final decision here. It's either going to be the HL-R5688W or the HP MD5880N. Here are my thoughts:

1 - the pedestal Sammie looks gorgeous, 'm talking turned off here as a design furniture piece, beautiful - the HP physical look is very bad in comparison
2 - I don't have to buy a stand with the Sammie, although my gear will have to go somewhere
3 - this particular Sammie does NOT have SRS Trusurround like the other Sammies, why is that I wonder?
4 - the Sammie does not have sub woofer (I don't have surround system yet)
5 - the HP has wires in the front (yea!!)
6 - the HP has 2.1 with subwoofer and SRS Trusurround and more wattage than Sammie
7 - the HP is 2 inches larger
8 - the HP is also still at full list price (everywhere it seems) and much more expensive than the Sammie and I will have to buy the stand which makes the current price diff for the HP at least $1000 more
9 - the HP will accept full 1080P over HDMI (Sammie won't), which means what to me exactly? I would have to buy a very high end PC to even output that content and the only source I can find are the few WMVHDs that have been released. So what is this worth anyway? My primary feed will be DVDs and Comcast HD, neither of which are 1080P
10 - I hear the HP is brighter but I haven't found one anywhere in Atlanta to look at

Decisions, decisions. I'm looking for some advice here, not a war with people that have purchased a Sammie and now wish they hadn't. :)

A

Does opening the screen and installing the inserts void the warranty? Does it matter who installs them, a calibrator, a friend or myself? Now I'm thinking of how well they are attached if you were to move the set and if they could introduce dust on the mirrors? Maybe it is better to use a calibrator since they already know the sizes and have them already cut to install and can install it faster with less dust?

I would have no desire to try and do this myself. I would leave it to the experts.

Amcintyre, I agree that the HP is ugly and now that I saw a pic I wouldn't consider it although you bring up the 1080p option.

The Sammy model includes the cost of the pedestal. You should compare it to Sammy's other two 56" 1080p models since those are the same. That pedestal is not made by Sammy and there are shelves you can buy that match the pedestal, probably not cheap though. I can't see buying that model with the pedestal and then using a table that doesn't match. That doesn't make sense. Either get another Sammy model like I suggest or get the optional shelving. As good as that pedestal looks there are plenty of nice looking stands that will fit everything on it. I guess I wouldn't buy a set based on the stand, which I think is the issue.

I think you need to compare apples to apples. You can adjust the sound with the EQ for more bass. I don't have a AVR yet either but I have a sub woofer connected that makes a big difference. The sound is great, very clear and as loud as you would want. Sammy has inputs on the right side below the menu buttons, out of sight for a cleaner look. Someone here can give you more info but you'd be better off getting the 5678 than the HP or the 5688. Afaik the only real plus the HP has over a Sammy is the 1080p input and that is questionable since they are the only one right now.

Amcintyre,the stand for the 5688 is a tr85.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?A=details&Q=&is=REG&O=productlist&kw=SATR85&cpncode=10-12242461-2&sku=334535&srccode=cii_5784816.
It has a compartment in the back were you run your wires into so you can hide your power strip or whatever.The price has come down dramatically.

Talking to tweeters about exchanging my 6178W for a 6768 (hopefully for around the same price). Why? I don't like the glare off the bezel and a few more inches would be nice (she said,ha :D ). I just hope the new one will be as problem free as the 78.......

Thanks for the help guys. Sorry I dont have a digital camera so I cant take a pic of my problem. I dont think its SSE. Also I got my TV from TVA and didnt get their warranty but I still have atleast 1 year Samsung warranty right? How would I contact them so they can come and look at the TV? Thanks!

I checked with Cox cable to find out about their HDTV programming.
I can go with a Cablecard or box, but of course the Cc is one way...

I tried the cable box a few months ago when they had their special and the picture was awful, when compared to the straight analog input.

Should I go with the Cc? Will that give me the best PQ? I dont use the PPV features anyway of the box.

any thoughts?

Thanks for the help guys. Sorry I dont have a digital camera so I cant take a pic of my problem. I dont think its SSE. Also I got my TV from TVA and didnt get their warranty but I still have atleast 1 year Samsung warranty right? How would I contact them so they can come and look at the TV? Thanks!
Sounds exactly like SSE. A bunch of tiny red sparkling dots which is what I see. Every 1080P RP set has them except the Qualia 006 and the 7178. It is caused by the screen, but the alternative is for the screen to be highly reflective. I see it all the time if I think about it. If I just enjoy the sharp picture and enjoy the programming I can forget about it.

its really dissapointing. First the problems with the audio. Now the SSE. Samsung gots to do something about this.