When you flip through channels with the Samsung 68 series and you have a combination of analog, digital (480I) and 1080i (this on cable) does the screen size automatically change size when you flip channel to channel? is there a big delay when going from analog to HDTV channels.

Is the channel changing fast? I ask because I had the cable box which was real slow and annoying to increment channels and now I can use the Cablecard which Im hoping would allow quick channel incrementing (sorry Im a addicted surfer).

thanks for any tips!

My new baby was delivered this am! Out of the box, I hooked up to the Oppo that was shipped on Friday and tested with Shrek 2 and Matrix Rev. The picture was Excellent! SD picture is average but I expected worse. The D* HDTiVO is coming this Friday! I am quite happy so far. If anyone has any picture tweaks or just general ideas to improve this already impressive picture please let me know!

Also if anyone knows a good calibrator in the SoCal area that would be great.

hello

i have a samsung 5688 tv, i hooked up a vga cable to the tv..but im not able to get 1080p at all...tv says signal not supported...or mode not supported...but i do get 720p...what am i doing wrong?

hello

i have a samsung 5688 tv, i hooked up a vga cable to the tv..but im not able to get 1080p at all...tv says signal not supported...or mode not supported...but i do get 720p...what am i doing wrong?
Try a different cable. The first cable I got was a little expensive, which had better shielding but omitted some wires. Apparently this is common with the expensive cable so the wires missing would normally send the info for the PC for the proper timings and resolution. As soon as I connected a cheaper cable it worked perfectly. It recognized the TV and came up with all th eresolutions that the TV could handle. So try a different cable. I originally used a cable from RAM which didn't work correctly then I used my cablle from an old audio Authority vga to component adapter, and that worked. I just got a 15ft cable from Cyberguys for around $15 which works properly also.

I tried two cables that I bought at Fry's. One was 25' for about $30. The other was 50' for about $55. The 25' was two short and the 50' initially caused a "Weak Signal" error message on the TV.

I have had good success in the past with the "Ultra HD" series of cables from Ultra SPEC cables (ultraspec) who normally sells into the high-end workstation market. These are very expensive compared to what you will find at Fry's but I don't think that a higher quality VGA cable can be found. UltraSPEC is correct to warn that the cables are not very flexible since they are so thick.

yeah.,..could be that..i paid like 59 bucks yesterday at best buy for a male to male svga cable...i bought one at ebay for 24 bucks..gets here tomorrow..so ill try with that tomorrow...guess im stuck with one 60 bucks cable now

yeah.,..could be that..i paid like 59 bucks yesterday at best buy for a male to male svga cable...i bought one at ebay for 24 bucks..gets here tomorrow..so ill try with that tomorrow...guess im stuck with one 60 bucks cable now


Can't you take the Best Buy cable back? Up here in the great white north, we get 30 days to take anything back to Best Buy.

Not to depress you but this svga male to male cable (http://cgi.ebay.ca/15Ft-SVGA-Super-VGA-M-M-Monitor-Cable-3x-Sheilded-15_W0QQitemZ5826592474QQcategoryZ3668QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) is 99 cents plus delivery.

I have had good success in the past with the "Ultra HD" series of cables from Ultra SPEC cables (ultraspec) who normally sells into the high-end workstation market. These are very expensive compared to what you will find at Fry's but I don't think that a higher quality VGA cable can be found. UltraSPEC is correct to warn that the cables are not very flexible since they are so thick.

If you read further, you would see that my ultimate solution was to use the VGA Gefen ExTendIt package (http://www.gefen.com/). Much, much more expensive than other solutions mentioned here, but with ultimate flexibility (both literally and figuratively) of running the VGA signal over Cat5 cable.

J.

I am running all HDMI through a Yamaha RX-V4600, HDMI switching receiver. I have a DTV HD Tivo and a Sony DVP-NS3100ES DVD player all going HDMI to the receiver's HDMI inputs and the recveiver's HDMI out to the TV. I have no other audio out to the receiver only HDMI. It is very rare that I notice any lag. Has anyone noticed this with an HDMI switching receiver?

Ironyboard, that would be awesome if the issue was analog? I don't know how many people here have a HDMI connection with lag? I didn't really think of it since I'm still looking to get a 7.1 Sirius HDMI AVR with delay. Is there such a thing?

I am a new member to the forum. Great information. I currently have a Mits WT-4689 hooked up to a D* HD Tivo via component cables. The picture is great with the projection CRT tubes. The Mits is too large (sticks out 33 inches from wall) for the room it is in now. I am considering the HLR5078W. I have looked at the Sammy at Circuit City with a the single signal split 50 times. As expected the Circuit City signal has a lot of noise. I'm very happy with the HD picture on the Mits. Have any of you made switches from CRT projection to DLP 1080 projection? How do you think the picture quality is compare between each TV (DLP vs CRT projection)?

Correction - my current TV is a Mits - WT-46809. Sorry for the error.

Ironyboard, that would be awesome if the issue was analog? I don't know how many people here have a HDMI connection with lag? I didn't really think of it since I'm still looking to get a 7.1 Sirius HDMI AVR with delay. Is there such a thing?

Realizing that my sample size is one, I am wondering if, since the video and audio all go through the same path that this somehow minimizes the lag. Until some others confirm this it is only a guess.

Wow, an HDMI switcher reciever? Nice.
I'll have to take a look but I don't forsee buying a new receiver until is supports the next HD audio codecs like DTSHD and DDHD.

First, thanks for posting the code, it is very useful. I did just want to point out that for anyone that is doing this, you should know that if you have made any changes to your user menu settings, every time you enter and leave the SM you will need to change them again b/c they reset to the factory defaults whenever you access the SM.

Is there a cheaper programmable remote other than the $249 Pronto? I would guess that this remote is way overpriced.

Is there a cheaper programmable remote other than the $249 Pronto? I would guess that this remote is way overpriced.

I really like the Harmony remotes. Logitech bought them last year. They have a set of single buttons like "watch TV", "watch DVD". They pass my wife appeal test.

Realizing that my sample size is one, I am wondering if, since the video and audio all go through the same path that this somehow minimizes the lag. Until some others confirm this it is only a guess.

Well, you are the first person I've heard of that has been able to go from cable set top box, to receiver, to TV with only two HDMI cables, and been able to get video to the TV.

This is a rather rare event. Whether you can get your HDMI signal through your repeater (your receiver) is a function of the cable company you have.

If some cable companies are now upgrading their cable box firmware to allow this to occur, this is good news.

Well, you are the first person I've heard of that has been able to go from cable set top box, to receiver, to TV with only two HDMI cables, and been able to get video to the TV.

This is a rather rare event. Whether you can get your HDMI signal through your repeater (your receiver) is a function of the cable company you have.

If some cable companies are now upgrading their cable box firmware to allow this to occur, this is good news.

It is interesting that you say that. When the man came out to set it up he didn't think it would work but it did and has ever since.

Is there a cheaper programmable remote other than the $249 Pronto? I would guess that this remote is way overpriced.

You can checkout remotes at www.remotecentral.com. Try their ClickerPicker function to get the right remote for your budget: CLICKER PICKER (http://www.remotecentral.com/features/clicker.htm). Logitech's Harmony line is a popular choice. But, depending on how complicated your setup is ... you have choices in all price ranges. The Philips Pronto is not for everyone, but if you want a totally custom remote, right down to screen layout and button design, it is a nice value at $249.

Realizing that my sample size is one, I am wondering if, since the video and audio all go through the same path that this somehow minimizes the lag. Until some others confirm this it is only a guess.
The biggest component of lag appears to be the TV (after the source of course). Since the TV is on a split path (your audio stops at the receiver), you will still experience the lag. But you can set delays in your audio system so the last element of your chain (the TV) can catch up.

The real question will be can you set a different delay factor for each of your sources with the video going to the TV. Thats assuming you only have one video output device. It could get very complicated if you needed a different delay for each video display.

Hi All,

I've read a few post in the pass mention about new firmware on the Samsung Hl-R5678w. How do I check to see what is my last firmware version and do I need to upgrade the firmware if it's not the lastest.

Also any detail describing the benfit of firmware upgrade.

Thanks,

My new 7178 was delivered 3 weeks ago. So far, the PQ is great! I have a question regarding picture size. The picture size is currently set to 16:9. When I play DVD's with 4:3 ratio, the picture is distorted. I need to set the screen to 4:3 to get proper ratio.

Here is my question:
With my old non-wide-screen analog (direct view) TV, if I play widescreen DVD, the top && bottom of the screen is cut, but the picture maintains the proper ratio, and the picture is not distorted. With my 7178, if I play 4:3 DVD, I thought I should get a screen with top && bottom, right && left cut, but the picture should maintain its proper ratio. But it doesn't. I need to manually adjust the picture size. Is this suposed to be that way? Thanks.

OK, I'm down to the final decision here. It's either going to be the HL-R5688W or the HP MD5880N. Here are my thoughts:

1 - the pedestal Sammie looks gorgeous, 'm talking turned off here as a design furniture piece, beautiful - the HP physical look is very bad in comparison
2 - I don't have to buy a stand with the Sammie, although my gear will have to go somewhere
3 - this particular Sammie does NOT have SRS Trusurround like the other Sammies, why is that I wonder?
4 - the Sammie does not have sub woofer (I don't have surround system yet)
5 - the HP has wires in the front (yea!!)
6 - the HP has 2.1 with subwoofer and SRS Trusurround and more wattage than Sammie
7 - the HP is 2 inches larger
8 - the HP is also still at full list price (everywhere it seems) and much more expensive than the Sammie and I will have to buy the stand which makes the current price diff for the HP at least $1000 more
9 - the HP will accept full 1080P over HDMI (Sammie won't), which means what to me exactly? I would have to buy a very high end PC to even output that content and the only source I can find are the few WMVHDs that have been released. So what is this worth anyway? My primary feed will be DVDs and Comcast HD, neither of which are 1080P
10 - I hear the HP is brighter but I haven't found one anywhere in Atlanta to look at

Decisions, decisions. I'm looking for some advice here, not a war with people that have purchased a Sammie and now wish they hadn't. :)

A

I was making the same comparison this morning. Check out TVA's current AVS Member pricing on the HP. I'm going to check out Brandsmart in ATL tomorrow--they're listed as a dealer by HP--to see if they have an HP on the floor. But it's a "water under the bridge" look for me--I just ordered an HP today....

My new 7178 was delivered 3 weeks ago. So far, the PQ is great! I have a question regarding picture size. The picture size is currently set to 16:9. When I play DVD's with 4:3 ratio, the picture is distorted. I need to set the screen to 4:3 to get proper ratio.

Here is my question:
With my old non-wide-screen analog (direct view) TV, if I play widescreen DVD, the top && bottom of the screen is cut, but the picture maintains the proper ratio, and the picture is not distorted. With my 7178, if I play 4:3 DVD, I thought I should get a screen with top && bottom, right && left cut, but the picture should maintain its proper ratio. But it doesn't. I need to manually adjust the picture size. Is this suposed to be that way? Thanks.
Slide the cover back on the remote and discover the pic size button. If you have an HDMI source you will have to change it in the player.

I've notice a few people talks about calibration but what I've experince is that in the morinig I set the picture in "Sporrt Mode" and at night I set it in "Movie Mode". This setting seem to works great for my HL-R5678W. It seem like Samsung does a good job calibrating this system in the factory.

Of course hiring an expert will help the PQ more but by using this two model you pretty much very close to adjusting it yourself.

Also I realize by using a cheap DVD player the picture is worest but when using the Sony DVP-NS3100es DVD player the picture is awsome an improve. Also I didn't have to do any calibration to get the best picture.

I was nervous of all the problem I've read before but now owning a Samsung I realize it come down to a good TV, DVD player and good signal feeds. The rest is just Bullshit

If you think the picture is good now, wait until you have a good calibrator calibrate the set. The calibrated picture is noticeable better, at least it was for me after Eliab worked his magic.

Thanks,

I will burn in my TV, and might consider expert calibration

My new 7178 was delivered 3 weeks ago. So far, the PQ is great! I have a question regarding picture size. The picture size is currently set to 16:9. When I play DVD's with 4:3 ratio, the picture is distorted. I need to set the screen to 4:3 to get proper ratio.

Here is my question:
With my old non-wide-screen analog (direct view) TV, if I play widescreen DVD, the top && bottom of the screen is cut, but the picture maintains the proper ratio, and the picture is not distorted. With my 7178, if I play 4:3 DVD, I thought I should get a screen with top && bottom, right && left cut, but the picture should maintain its proper ratio. But it doesn't. I need to manually adjust the picture size. Is this suposed to be that way? Thanks.

You did not mention if you configured your DVD Player for a 16:9 TV. Maybe not all players have that configuration? If it does then it should know how to display the video and you should be able to leave your TV in 16:9. Since most movies are not in 16:9 you could still get "black bars" at the top and bottom, but wide screen movies should pretty much fill the screen right to left. Then so called "Full Screen" movies/shows (4:3) should fill top to bottom with the black bars on the sides. You did not say in which way it was distorted, so I cannot be sure what it was doing.

My new 7178 was delivered 3 weeks ago. So far, the PQ is great!


Question: How do you find the screen? Do you have any lights on when you watch? Do you get any reflections, etc.?

You did not mention if you configured your DVD Player for a 16:9 TV. Maybe not all players have that configuration? If it does then it should know how to display the video and you should be able to leave your TV in 16:9. Since most movies are not in 16:9 you could still get "black bars" at the top and bottom, but wide screen movies should pretty much fill the screen right to left. Then so called "Full Screen" movies/shows (4:3) should fill top to bottom with the black bars on the sides. You did not say in which way it was distorted, so I cannot be sure what it was doing.

I think my DVD player is set to 16:9, but I need to verify.

By distotion I mean the screen is displaying the 4:3 picture using 16:9 w/o black bars on the sides, thus the figures in the picture are distorted.

Question: How do you find the screen? Do you have any lights on when you watch? Do you get any reflections, etc.?

The screen is reflective, and you can't have lights directly in front of the screen. Lights behind or on the side of the screen maybe OK, depends on its intensity. Basically, the room needs to be darkened for viewing.

With proper light control, the PQ with my no-up-converting progressive DVD player is very good, at least as good as my 36" direct-view Snoy XBR400.

I don't have HD source yet, so I can't comment on HD PQ.

I didn't think of it until I realized I disagree with your statement. I actually have a a bright light fixture directly above and in front of the 5678. That is the main light for the living room so it is very bright. I normally sit to the right side of the set and have not noticed any glare or anything from the lights, not even on the black bezel. I also have a window on the left side although I think the ceiling light is stronger than the sunlight. My friend has his 5078 directly in front of a picture window, not sure which way the sun is but I never noticed a problem. He now has curtains on the window but that was for privacy more than the set and sometimes has the curtain open.

I didn't think of it until I realized I disagree with your statement. I actually have a a bright light fixture directly above and in front of the 5678. That is the main light for the living room so it is very bright. I normally sit to the right side of the set and have not noticed any glare or anything from the lights, not even on the black bezel. I also have a window on the left side although I think the ceiling light is stronger than the sunlight. My friend has his 5078 directly in front of a picture window, not sure which way the sun is but I never noticed a problem. He now has curtains on the window but that was for privacy more than the set and sometimes has the curtain open.

Blacktiger has a 7178, which has a 'plate glass' type screen (similar to the Qualia) that is different from all the other Sammy dlp's. IMO, it does give a very good PQ, but it looses the excellent feature that the traditional Sammy screens have of essentially no reflective glare. For some reason Samsung felt they needed to do this for the 71" set.

Howdy All!

I am looking at the 71 incher. I am a hardcore gamer. Is there really lag when playing games ?? Thanks everyone in advance.

Howdy All!

I am looking at the 71 incher. I am a hardcore gamer. Is there really lag when playing games ?? Thanks everyone in advance.


I have the 67 incher and played counter-strike source on my laptop. I never experienced any lag from the tv, however my laptop's video card isn't the best, so I get lag sometimes. If your video card can take it, then there should be zero lag.

Sorry, I didn't notice the 7178. It might be helpful for people to know that I have a 5678 and bright light isn't an issue. I guess Sammy thought the 7178 would be against the wall far away from any direct light. It seems people prefer the larger HDTV closer than their SD sets were. In other words people have larger sets in smaller rooms that the set was not intended for.

I think my DVD player is set to 16:9, but I need to verify.

By distotion I mean the screen is displaying the 4:3 picture using 16:9 w/o black bars on the sides, thus the figures in the picture are distorted.

Blacktiger - I'm pretty sure that what you are experiencing is normal. That is, if if you set your DVD player to 16x9 and the source is actually 4x3, it will stretch the picture. I haven't watched a 4x3 DVD in a long time, but I think my set did the exact same thing and I needed to switch the DVD player to 4x3 to make it look right.

I recently built my first HTPC with Media Center 2005. I've installed all the latest Nvidia drivers and Nvidia pure video decoder. My results are barely better than my $69 DVD player! The HTPC works great through the VGA input but the picture seems to be noisier than my old player. Also, after reading the 6768 manual I discovered the PC set up instructions for picture quality. Can anyone explain what Samsung means by this set up menu?

I was making the same comparison this morning. Check out TVA's current AVS Member pricing on the HP. I'm going to check out Brandsmart in ATL tomorrow--they're listed as a dealer by HP--to see if they have an HP on the floor. But it's a "water under the bridge" look for me--I just ordered an HP today....
I have the HL-R5688w. Not only is it beautiful, but it does have the SRS TSXT surround sound and an input for a subwoofer built into the back. I have both activated as I don't have an external sound system set up. I have no lip sych issues and the sound is really good through the set's own speakers. I have a powered subwoofer attached and it all works very well together. You can set up the sub sound level and frequency level thru the TV. I would recommend this TV very highly, have had it three weeks and love it. It has two HDMI inputs. I have a Samsung DVD HD-850 attached to one and it also works very well.

Check him out here Avical (www.avical.com)
Thanks a million, very nice website and the info is awesome. I will contact Eliab.

I was asked by someone who thinks he wants a 56 or 61 inch Sammy but is not interested in doing any research, if it is worth the extra $ to go to the 1080p versus saving a bunch by getting a 720p. Other than the fact that it will be viewed a lot during the day in a bright (sun lit) room, he has no special requirements - the TV will be for routine family use. How would you answer?

Blacktiger - I'm pretty sure that what you are experiencing is normal. That is, if if you set your DVD player to 16x9 and the source is actually 4x3, it will stretch the picture. I haven't watched a 4x3 DVD in a long time, but I think my set did the exact same thing and I needed to switch the DVD player to 4x3 to make it look right.

Is there a setting on the Oppo DVD player to set the output to 4:3, so that the older movies (recorded on 4:3 aspect ratio) are not stretched? I have a 6168 connected to it thru HDMI.

Looks like Eliab is going to make a trip to DFW to calibrate Samsung DLP's (only Samsung) next month. If anyone is interested send him an email.

This will be my first calibration. I must admit I am a bit skeptical about how much this picture can be improved (I'm still amazed 3 months later), but I'm going to give it a shot mainly because I want to get more detail in the blacks and the fact that folks have testified that the picture improvement is noticeable.

I will post my opinions after the cal for those who are in the same boat as me - skeptical about spending this amount of money on something that is amazing already.

Anyway, send an email to info@avical.com if you are interested and live in the area.

Is there a setting on the Oppo DVD player to set the output to 4:3, so that the older movies (recorded on 4:3 aspect ratio) are not stretched? I have a 6168 connected to it thru HDMI.Any DVD player has to be set according to the aspect ratio of the TV's screen. It has nothing to do with the aspect ratio of the material being played by the DVD player. DVD players mostly come defaulted for 4x3 screens since that is the most common screen ratio. Anyone with a wide screen (16x9) must change their DVD player to expect a 16x9 screen.

The correct setting for HLP (2004) Samsung DLP sets is "Expand" mode if the DVD player is connected using either DVI or HDMI ports. If component, composite, or S-Video connections are used then "Wide TV" is the correct mode.

Using these settings will correctly display "Academy Standard" (4x3) films with side bars. For more information check out this thread. The HLR (2005) sets may have some differences in the correct picture size (aspect ratio) settings nomenclature.

Where Did Those "Black Bars" Come From? (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=328207)

Okbyme, first, for an expensive, large purchase I can't imagine a friend wants advise and is too lazy to do any research? I do that a lot and I thought I was the only one. I just helped a friend with a camcorder, but that was only $300. Would they buy a car without test driving it too?

Anyway, there is a big difference and it is for technical reasons. The average person will need to take several visits to look at a 720 and 1080 to see the difference. The issue is there is no HD standard. Plasma HDTVs are not 720 or 1080, they are lower.

The easiest way to tell the difference is to watch 720 on a 1080. The picture will not be as good as if it were 1080 on a 1080. 1080 is quickly becoming the standard. Most HD channels are 1080 and I think Fox is still 720? Someone here has more info. The same way SD doesn't look that good on a 1080, the 720 will not be as sharp. This day and age it makes sense to get a 1080 set and if price was a factor it would be better to save your money until you are ready to buy a 1080 than a 720 now. FYI HP now has two 1080p models that take 1080p HDMI. That also shows the importance of 1080 rather than 720.

I was asked by someone who thinks he wants a 56 or 61 inch Sammy but is not interested in doing any research, if it is worth the extra $ to go to the 1080p versus saving a bunch by getting a 720p. Other than the fact that it will be viewed a lot during the day in a bright (sun lit) room, he has no special requirements - the TV will be for routine family use. How would you answer?

I would spend the extra $ for the 1080p for sure. There is a big difference between the two, especially when you calibrate it. I have one 720p and two 1080p TV's at my house. The 1080p TV's look so much better than the 720p, especially watching HD channels that I have. I have over 10 HD channels and they are simply awesome on the 1080p TV's. Also when you watch movies the 1080p looks better, the PQ is sharper, deeper in color and contrast and the blacks are more black.

I did a test and hooked up the same HD DVD player (SonyNS950N) to both TV's and the PQ was different.

On another note: All channels will soon be Digital and running on 1080p. The difference in price is not all that much. Most TV's are 1080p. More and more channels will become HD over time. In 2006 they will lauch over 15 more channels HD.

I obtained this interesting link for capturing content to a PC via Firewire. I briefly read the info and haven't tried anything myself. I was hoping someone here would. :D Here is the link. :cool: http://replayguide.sourceforge.net/dct6412/index.html#Setting_up_for_drivers_for_DCT6412

On another note: All channels will soon be Digital and running on 1080p. The difference in price is not all that much. Most TV's are 1080p. More and more channels will become HD over time. In 2006 they will lauch over 15 more channels HD.

Soon is a relative term, the official date for cutover as put in the Senate bill is April 9, 2009.

If you mean by "Most TV's are 1080p" the over the air broadcast stations, the ATSC standard is 1080i at 60 fps is what most stations are using. ABC and Fox are using 720p. 1080p is at 24, 25 , and 30 fps and no one is currently using that.

In 2006 they will lauch over 15 more channels HD.

Digital transmission does NOT mean HD.

I think Direct mentioned a few months ago they would be adding two satellites and more HD channels early 2006. It was supposed to be more than Dish has planned at the time.

Question for those of you with 1080p Sammies and Comcast Cable: on the Moto stb, what do you choose in the 'User Settings' for the '4:3 Overide'? 'OFF' or '480i' (I presume not '480p'). Tx!

I obtained this interesting link for capturing content to a PC via Firewire. I briefly read the info and haven't tried anything myself. I was hoping someone here would. :D Here is the link. :cool: http://replayguide.sourceforge.net/dct6412/index.html#Setting_up_for_drivers_for_DCT6412
Works just fine if the channel you are watching is not encrypted (no ESPN, Comcast Sportsnet, INHD, or premium channels). There's a rather extensive thread on the topic in the HDTV Recorders and Players forum: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=403695&page=1&pp=30 I didn't know about this thread either until I ran into it by accident as a posting on another site. Have fun.

Question for those of you with 1080p Sammies and Comcast Cable: on the Moto stb, what do you choose in the 'User Settings' for the '4:3 Overide'? 'OFF' or '480i' (I presume not '480p'). Tx!
I chose off as I did not want the 4:3 pic stretched because it distorted the pic. You can set it to any of the three, it's what you prefer.

I obtained this interesting link for capturing content to a PC via Firewire. I briefly read the info and haven't tried anything myself. I was hoping someone here would. :D Here is the link. :cool: http://replayguide.sourceforge.net/dct6412/index.html#Setting_up_for_drivers_for_DCT6412
If this will enable me to copy my filled up DVR drive to my PC then I really appreciate the link! I've been wanting to do this but no one knew how (especially comcast).

Hookster: It will enable you to capture the transport stream output of your STB. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/show...95&page=1&pp=30 is the place to start. The 1st post in the thread is constantly updated on what you need to do. I'm using CapDVHS.exe to snag the stream to my hard drive, MPEGtoHDTV to convert, and VLC (VideoLan.org) to stream back as a media server. Sorry, I have a Moto 6208 which does not have a DVR, so I can't answer about connecting internally to the STB.

Waiting on delivery of my 6768 to jump in the fray here. Also getting a DVD recorder to replace my VHS recorder. Watch out for maximum cable lengths (Firewire max length = 5 m).

Hookster: It will enable you to capture the transport stream output of your STB. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/show...95&page=1&pp=30 is the place to start. The 1st post in the thread is constantly updated on what you need to do. I'm using CapDVHS.exe to snag the stream to my hard drive, MPEGtoHDTV to convert, and VLC (VideoLan.org) to stream back as a media server. Sorry, I have a Moto 6208 which does not have a DVR, so I can't answer about connecting internally to the STB.

Waiting on delivery of my 6768 to jump in the fray here. Also getting a DVD recorder to replace my VHS recorder. Watch out for maximum cable lengths (Firewire max length = 5 m).
Can I ask a few questions on the 6178. This TV Seems to have the best picture quality hands down on most DLPs I have looked at.

Geek Girl, did you order it from Crutchfield?

Where is the best place to order it from?

God, I am waiting for this to come down in price just a weeeeeeeeeeeeee bit. When do you all think it may drop a few hundred?

Can I ask a few questions on the 6178. This TV Seems to have the best picture quality hands down on most DLPs I have looked at.

Geek Girl, did you order it from Crutchfield?

Where is the best place to order it from?

God, I am waiting for this to come down in price just a weeeeeeeeeeeeee bit. When do you all think it may drop a few hundred?

I ordered my 6768 from TVauthority, and I am very happy with my decision!! Came to my house one week after I ordered it by phone, and so far my tv is amazing. The only thing I didn't like was the fact they didn't give me a receipt when the tv arrived, however, I asked one of those online chatting operators and received my receipt through email. This is my biggest purchase online by far, so I am very pleased how smooth everything went through, especially with the delivery since nothing was damaged at all. Hope that helped!

If you buy the Sammy soon the best place to go is Tweeter for their Private Sale. They were very close to the best price found at TVA, which is no longer available. In other words, be prepared to buy since the Private Sale is I think this Friday and Saturday. They only have the sale a few times a year. The last sale was in August I think.

Tweeter owns other stores so if there isn't a Tweeter near you one of their other stores might be and could have a sale too? Check their website.

Looks like Eliab is going to make a trip to DFW to calibrate Samsung DLP's (only Samsung) next month. If anyone is interested send him an email.

This will be my first calibration. I must admit I am a bit skeptical about how much this picture can be improved (I'm still amazed 3 months later), but I'm going to give it a shot mainly because I want to get more detail in the blacks and the fact that folks have testified that the picture improvement is noticeable.

I will post my opinions after the cal for those who are in the same boat as me - skeptical about spending this amount of money on something that is amazing already.

Anyway, send an email to info@avical.com if you are interested and live in the area.

A word of caution - as reported initially by Bill and then by others, there is a glitch in the firmware of these sets that significantly affects the picture when you switch inputs. As a result, if you are doing a calibration, you must point it out to the calibrator so that he takes it into account and does a consistent calibration across all of your inputs. You may also need to set up some macros on your remote control in order to obtain the best PQ on all inputs (feel free to PM me if you want more detail). My set was recently calibrated (by Kevin Miller of ISFTV out of the NYC area) and the difference in PQ was quite significant, but Kevin spent a lot of time dealing with this firmware glitch. That said, once the firmware is fixed, I will still need to make sure that the settings remain correct (I'm lucky b/c Kevin has agreed to check that out for me). On that point - Bill - have you gotten any update from Samsung on the issue?

Anyone have any newer updates to the above firmware versions?I just received my new 5078 and the HD picture is stunning. Comcast's digital channels on the Motorola 6208 via HDMI are pretty good, but the old analog are pretty bad. Fortunately most ofwhat I'll watch will be digital or better.

I can't wait to get the rest of the inputs going and have this hooked up to my Yamaha RX-V2500 (with the audio delay feature).

FYI the firmware on this set is T_EXCAAUS0_8019, Date: 2005-08-16.

I should have made notes as I read throygh the forum, however could someone mention again how to:

1. detect the firmware version
2. go about getting a more recent version

TV is the 6168. Thanks

Greetings from Canada folks.

I've been following the development of the 1080p Ti chip for well over a year now. I'm just about ready to purchase myself a Samsung DLP and was hoping for some advice from people who already have these units.

I'm looking at the 7178 model. It's going in a room that's 14'x30'. The seating area will be about 15' from the screen. Yes, I know what you're all thinking. We have big igloos here. :)

Here's the tech questions:

1080p over other inputs - I know 1080p works over the analog VGA. Currently, it does not over HDMI. Will it ever? Is this a major problem for future compatibility? I believe from my research that the set will take a 1080i 60fps signal and automatically convert it to 1080p. Is this good enough? Basically - should I hold off until these units mature a little?

Motorola DCT6412 - this is my cable box. I presume I'd just set it for 1080i, then feed from the DVI port through an adapter to the HDMI input on the Sammy? Any major issues out there with this setup, other than audio lag?

Audio lag - I understand the reasons behind it. I have a Sony STR-DE1075 receiver. I don't believe it has an audio delay feature. The audio lag will bug me. What can I do, other than get a new receiver or a delay processor?

DVD - In order to get the best quality, I presume I'll need an upconverting DVD player. I read somewhere that the Sammy sets will have processors that will do automatic upconversion. Is that talking about 1080i to 1080p, or will it actually process and upconvert from 480p to 1080p? If I need a player, what are currently the best options out there? (I've read some other threads about this and can always get that info once I know that I'll need one or not.)

Best place in Canada to purchase. I was in a store in the US and they offered me $1300 off the $5999 MSRP on the 7178. Trouble is, I'd have to physically get it back, pay the taxes, (which I'd have to do anyway), but then if there's any problems, I'd probably have to slug it back over the border. Not fun. Any ideas? Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?



I think that's about it for now. I hope it's okay to post in this thread - I really need the help from owners of these units. If all goes well, I'll soon be posting here about my new Sammy.

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me. If I get the answers I need, I promise to stop clubbing seals until the new year.

A word of caution - as reported initially by Bill and then by others, there is a glitch in the firmware of these sets that significantly affects the picture when you switch inputs. As a result, if you are doing a calibration, you must point it out to the calibrator so that he takes it into account and does a consistent calibration across all of your inputs. You may also need to set up some macros on your remote control in order to obtain the best PQ on all inputs (feel free to PM me if you want more detail). My set was recently calibrated (by Kevin Miller of ISFTV out of the NYC area) and the difference in PQ was quite significant, but Kevin spent a lot of time dealing with this firmware glitch. That said, once the firmware is fixed, I will still need to make sure that the settings remain correct (I'm lucky b/c Kevin has agreed to check that out for me). On that point - Bill - have you gotten any update from Samsung on the issue?

Where does the VGA (PC) input fit into this issue? I only use the PC and HDMI1 inputs.

Thanks,

I should have made notes as I read throygh the forum, however could someone mention again how to:

1. detect the firmware version
2. go about getting a more recent version

TV is the 6168. ThanksAnswer to 1. You can find the version of firmware without going into the Service Menu by going into Setup -> Function Help -> Highlight On and press Info button. Version of firmware will be displayed at the bottom of your screen.

I don't know if there is an answer to your second question. Others may have insight.

Where does the VGA (PC) input fit into this issue? I only use the PC and HDMI1 inputs.

Thanks,

Those are the only two inputs that I use as well. The VGA input on my set appears to be unaffected by this problem. However, switching from VGA to HDMI does cause the issue on the HDMI input for me.

Those are the only two inputs that I use as well. The VGA input on my set appears to be unaffected by this problem. However, switching from VGA to HDMI does cause the issue on the HDMI input for me.

Thanks for the info.

I seem to recall there was a way to restore things that required you to go into the picture setup and change something but I don't remeber what it was. Does anyone know?

Thanks for the info.

I seem to recall there was a way to restore things that required you to go into the picture setup and change something but I don't remeber what it was. Does anyone know?

Just changing picture modes fixes the problem (Standard,Dynamic,Movie). I have discrete codes added to my universal remote so it's not overly inconvenient but I hope Samsung gives us a fix soon.

Looks like Eliab is going to make a trip to DFW to calibrate Samsung DLP's (only Samsung) next month. If anyone is interested send him an email.

This will be my first calibration. I must admit I am a bit skeptical about how much this picture can be improved (I'm still amazed 3 months later), but I'm going to give it a shot mainly because I want to get more detail in the blacks and the fact that folks have testified that the picture improvement is noticeable.

I will post my opinions after the cal for those who are in the same boat as me - skeptical about spending this amount of money on something that is amazing already.

Anyway, send an email to info@avical.com if you are interested and live in the area.

When do you think Eliab will be in the Southern California area? I want him to calibrate my unit too.

Hookster: It will enable you to capture the transport stream output of your STB. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/show...95&page=1&pp=30 is the place to start. The 1st post in the thread is constantly updated on what you need to do. I'm using CapDVHS.exe to snag the stream to my hard drive, MPEGtoHDTV to convert, and VLC (VideoLan.org) to stream back as a media server. Sorry, I have a Moto 6208 which does not have a DVR, so I can't answer about connecting internally to the STB.

Waiting on delivery of my 6768 to jump in the fray here. Also getting a DVD recorder to replace my VHS recorder. Watch out for maximum cable lengths (Firewire max length = 5 m).

My STB (HR10-250) doesn't support firewire. I would like to be able to transfer saved shows from my DirecTivo to my computer without hacking it. Does anyone know if the TV passes the current feed out through its firewire ports?

Soon is a relative term, the official date for cutover as put in the Senate bill is April 9, 2009.

If you mean by "Most TV's are 1080p" the over the air broadcast stations, the ATSC standard is 1080i at 60 fps is what most stations are using. ABC and Fox are using 720p. 1080p is at 24, 25 , and 30 fps and no one is currently using that.
The date might be skeptical since most stations will boradcast in HD before April, 2009. Already channels are broadcasting in Digital without the deadline date being near. It also depends on what service package you buy for Cable, not for OTA standard. You are right about the 1080i and 1080p standards. 1080i will mostly be the choice for now.

Digital transmission does NOT mean HD.
You ar right my bad, I meant to say Digital Transmission, not HD. HD is only available through your cable provider with a monthly cost.

Can I ask a few questions on the 6178. This TV Seems to have the best picture quality hands down on most DLPs I have looked at.

Geek Girl, did you order it from Crutchfield?

Where is the best place to order it from?

God, I am waiting for this to come down in price just a weeeeeeeeeeeeee bit. When do you all think it may drop a few hundred?

I ordered both my TV's 6178 and 5688 from Vanns.com and I am well pleased with the price, no tax, no shipping cost and got in home delivery for free. The price was $3,999.99 for each unit. I even got a $500.00 off instantly for buying two TV's at once. I had to call the rep to get this discount. I fought for it and got it. I bought my TV's back in May (pre-order) and got them in August 2005.

A word of caution - as reported initially by Bill and then by others, there is a glitch in the firmware of these sets that significantly affects the picture when you switch inputs. As a result, if you are doing a calibration, you must point it out to the calibrator so that he takes it into account and does a consistent calibration across all of your inputs. You may also need to set up some macros on your remote control in order to obtain the best PQ on all inputs (feel free to PM me if you want more detail). My set was recently calibrated (by Kevin Miller of ISFTV out of the NYC area) and the difference in PQ was quite significant, but Kevin spent a lot of time dealing with this firmware glitch. That said, once the firmware is fixed, I will still need to make sure that the settings remain correct (I'm lucky b/c Kevin has agreed to check that out for me). On that point - Bill - have you gotten any update from Samsung on the issue?

Does anyone know when a new firmware will be released, since most of us agree that there is a problem and glitch with the current one?

Does anyone know when a new firmware will be released, since most of us agree that there is a problem and glitch with the current one?
There is some more recent firmware than was on the initial 1080p sets, I just don't know if it addresses this problem. I expect to get a firmware update from Samsung and if I do, I'll post the results.

There is some more recent firmware than was on the initial 1080p sets, I just don't know if it addresses this problem. I expect to get a firmware update from Samsung and if I do, I'll post the results.

Thanks man, that sounds good. Do you know what firmware version is or should be on the sets? What was the code to get into the SM on the 6178. I cant remember it. Was it 8-2-??-power? Thanks.

The service menu screen is brought up with: Set on: Power-Mute-1-8-2-Power Set off: Mute-1-8-2-Power - wait for 15-20 seconds and the Service Menu screen will come up.

No one has said updating Firmware would be available or possible on the sets. The newer sets being shipped appear to have newer Firmware updates but that doesn't mean they are available to the public. It has also been mentioned that historically Sammy has not offered the updates to the public like other companies have. I don't think anyone here has installed a new update on the new sets.

Schaffer970, I can't get to the SM. Is there a trick to it or something? I tried it on and off to be sure. I tried to push the buttons quickly but didn't know if you need to hold down a button or something? Any help or info would be great.

Dynamitemonkey, I think most of the info you have is correct. One thing I thought I'd mention is the 6412 STB has HDMI now at least on the DVR. That would be the way to go instead of DVI to HDMI with the analog audio. I had to demand I get one for me and my friend in Boston. They weren't available they said but the installer had two on his truck so I guess we took the last two. Actually, he got his replaced and had to wait a week or so for a new one so it might still be a problem?

I agree it would be nice to find out what Samsung updated in the firmware releases. Would a call into Samsung Tech support asking this question know what has been updated? Perhaps they might of changed something to improve picture quality. The Service port on the back of the DLP looks like it would accomodate a USB Flash drive. I am running the T_EXCAAUS0_8014, DATE: 2005-07-15 on my HLR-5078W. I know when I had a Mitsubishi DLP, they would Fedex a Firmware update on Compact Flash out to you to updated the firmware and then you returned the Compact Flash to them once you had updated the set.

So it looks like we have the below firmware versions so far on the 1080p's - not sure if the versions are common across the different Samsung 1080p DLP models:

T_EXCAAUS0_8012, DATE: 2005-06-22 - Reported on model(s): 5668, 5678
T_EXCAAUS0_8014, DATE: 2005-07-15 - Reported on model(s): 5078
T_EXCAAUS0_8015, DATE: 2005-07-16 - Reported on model(s): 6168, 5668
T_EXCAAUS0_8019, DATE: 2005-08-16 - Reported on model: 5078
T_EXCAAUS0_8019, DATE: 2005-08-19 - Reported on model(s): 6168


Note as reported in an earlier posting, you can find the version of firmware without going into the Service Menu by going into Setup -> Function Help -> Highlight On and press Info button. Version of firmware will be displayed.

Post has been updated adding the 8-16 date however the version is a duplicate of an 8-19 date reported.

Ds_1910, I just checked and my 5678 has the August 16 update. There is other information, I don't know what they are? Is the other info updated as well? Do all of the sets have the same info? By info I mean the other info listed after the firmware.

The service menu screen is brought up with: Set on: Power-Mute-1-8-2-Power Set off: Mute-1-8-2-Power - wait for 15-20 seconds and the Service Menu screen will come up.

Thanks this worked well.

Ds_1910, I just checked and my 5678 has the August 16 update. There is other information, I don't know what they are? Is the other info updated as well? Do all of the sets have the same info? By info I mean the other info listed after the firmware.

I will check my sets out, because I bought them in May and got them in August, so my firmware might not be updated. That sucks. Why wont Sammy release the new updates to the public. Do they want to sell them? Or do you have to buy a new set to get the new firmware. This doesnt make any sense to me.

Ds_1910, I just checked and my 5678 has the August 16 update. There is other information, I don't know what they are? Is the other info updated as well? Do all of the sets have the same info? By info I mean the other info listed after the firmware.
I will post my firmware here tomorrow. Maybe mine is different then the others. I will let you know.

OK i just purchased the 6168 at Magnolia will be delivered tomorrow. I have a lot many questions. PQ, is it better than the HLN's I thought nothing could be better but did notice banding on certain scenes (underwater scene in NEMO and stuff like that with various shades of blue)is that stuff resolved with the HLR's? Ive been reading this forum for weeks now anticipating this move. I am about to get rid of a HLN 61inch that I have connected thru DVI to a HTPC that i built. I know it will take 1080p thru vga and i know that just like the HLN the HLR will see it as plug and play. But i have concerns about turning off DNIE as i heard this improves the HLR's, also i saw at some point a rebate for a dvd player that im interested in. Is that still valid?

Isn't the banding from the Nemo disc? I've seen it on every HD display I've looked at playing Nemo, my 1080P DLP, my 768P LCD, and an HD CRT.
The picture is definitely better without DNIe on. All you have to do is put up a test pattern and it's obvious how bad DNIe makes it look. Then if you look at a program and toggle DNIe on/off it is obvious too.
I'll have to take a picture in the next few days of the HDNet test pattern with DNIe off that will show the difference.

Post has been updated adding the 8-16 date however the version is a duplicate of an 8-19 date reported.

T_EXCAAUS0_8019, DATE: 2005-08-16 shows on my 6178.

aaronwt do you know HTWAITS? I remember talking to him about lots of issues when i was purchasing my HLN. He seemed very knowledgable as well. Anyway Im hoping that i can resolve these issues tonight and make a list of things to do so that tomorrow after they deliver the set i dont find myself reading 229 pages for info. I remember something about a program guide that most people dont like. Here are some of my questions:
How do i turn that program guide off if i dont like it?
What do i need to pick up the OTA channels and how do i find them?
any other important things that might make the tv a more enjoyable first weekend experience.

I am pretty knowledgable as with the HLN i have it hooked to my HTPC via DVI with 1:1 pixel mapping all of which i learned how to do in this forum. I am currently using a Hidef STB that records Hidef, I think its the Motorola 6208 and HD looks awesome on the HLN with it. I heard from Magnolia they just started 2 OTA local channels in my area (the first and only 2) and because the HLN's didnt have internal tuners i dont know a thing about how to tune those in.
Any pointers would be greatly appreciated. Waiting like a kid at Christmas.

The service menu screen is brought up with: Set on: Power-Mute-1-8-2-Power Set off: Mute-1-8-2-Power - wait for 15-20 seconds and the Service Menu screen will come up.

Took a couple of times trying...but I finally got in. Now, if I could just figure out the correct way to get out of the service menu! :confused:

Hit the power button 2 times to go back to watching tv or once to turn the tv off completely and power back on in normal tv mode

How many dead pixels have ye? 11 days I've had the 6178, and I've now got 1 dead white pixel screen center. Sigh.

Maxiter, I don't think it is possible to have dead pixels on them? If there was a dead pixel there would be two since the DLP wobulates the left and right side pixels. I'm guessing it is something else like this black plastic stuff that sticks to the inside of the screen? If it is a pixel, then my theory would find another pixel near the edge of the screen, either left or right.

I agree it would be nice to find out what Samsung updated in the firmware releases. Would a call into Samsung Tech support asking this question know what has been updated? Perhaps they might of changed something to improve picture quality. The Service port on the back of the DLP looks like it would accomodate a USB Flash drive. I am running the T_EXCAAUS0_8014, DATE: 2005-07-15 on my HLR-5078W. I know when I had a Mitsubishi DLP, they would Fedex a Firmware update on Compact Flash out to you to updated the firmware and then you returned the Compact Flash to them once you had updated the set.

So it looks like we have the below firmware versions so far on the 1080p's - not sure if the versions are common across the different Samsung 1080p DLP models:

T_EXCAAUS0_8012, DATE: 2005-06-22 - Reported on model(s): 5668, 5678
T_EXCAAUS0_8014, DATE: 2005-07-15 - Reported on model(s): 5078
T_EXCAAUS0_8015, DATE: 2005-07-16 - Reported on model(s): 6168, 5668
T_EXCAAUS0_8019, DATE: 2005-08-16 - Reported on model(s): 5078, 5678, 6178
T_EXCAAUS0_8019, DATE: 2005-08-19 - Reported on model(s): 6168


Note as reported in an earlier posting, you can find the version of firmware without going into the Service Menu by going into Setup -> Function Help -> Highlight On and press Info button. Version of firmware will be displayed.

From the above perhaps the DATES really reference the firmware install date and not the actual creation date of the version of firmware.

Isn't the banding from the Nemo disc? I've seen it on every HD display I've looked at playing Nemo, my 1080P DLP, my 768P LCD, and an HD CRT.
The picture is definitely better without DNIe on. All you have to do is put up a test pattern and it's obvious how bad DNIe makes it look. Then if you look at a program and toggle DNIe on/off it is obvious too.
I'll have to take a picture in the next few days of the HDNet test pattern with DNIe off that will show the difference.

When I turn DNIe off, I find the picture softer and the blacks not so black. Then again, I'm a noob when it comes to this stuff and my analysis consists of "which do you like better?" :) Both my wife and I prefer the rich crisp picture with DNIe on.

I am a newbee in Samsung DLP. How do you turn off DNe in HLR-5078?
THanks very much

The only way to turn the DNIe on and off is in the SM and it is not recommended for anyone to enter the SM. Any changes could affect the PQ. Some had trouble turning it off in the SM.

OK i just purchased the 6168 at Magnolia will be delivered tomorrow. I have a lot many questions. PQ, is it better than the HLN's I thought nothing could be better but did notice banding on certain scenes (underwater scene in NEMO and stuff like that with various shades of blue)is that stuff resolved with the HLR's? Ive been reading this forum for weeks now anticipating this move. I am about to get rid of a HLN 61inch that I have connected thru DVI to a HTPC that i built. I know it will take 1080p thru vga and i know that just like the HLN the HLR will see it as plug and play. But i have concerns about turning off DNIE as i heard this improves the HLR's, also i saw at some point a rebate for a dvd player that im interested in. Is that still valid?

I noticed that banding in Nemo also. I was a little concerned.
It seemed to go away when I changed the picture mode from standard to movie.
YMMV

Maxiter, I don't think it is possible to have dead pixels on them? If there was a dead pixel there would be two since the DLP wobulates the left and right side pixels. I'm guessing it is something else like this black plastic stuff that sticks to the inside of the screen? If it is a pixel, then my theory would find another pixel near the edge of the screen, either left or right.

Samsung mentions a "dead pixel" policy for DLPs within the FAQ of their support site. Perhaps they just use the term "dead pixel" because it's already an understood phrase for LCD-land. So maybe it's technically incorrect to use that term.

The policy essentially says that 1 dead pixel stuck on (white spot) or 2 dead pixels stuck off (black spot) are out of spec.

I've got a bright white spot on all channels and all inputs. It's clearly visible on a channel with no signal and when the television is first powered off.

Haven't talked to Tweeter yet, but I'm sure they'll swap the tele.

I hope I'm the only person who has experienced this as I don't want to worry about this recurring on a $4k+ tele. I'd suspect it's not cheap to fix when out of warranty.

I noticed that banding in Nemo also. I was a little concerned.
It seemed to go away when I changed the picture mode from standard to movie.
YMMV

The banding in Nemo is a well known problem with the DVD. It is not an issue with your set. ;)

The only way to turn the DNIe on and off is in the SM and it is not recommended for anyone to enter the SM. Any changes could affect the PQ. Some had trouble turning it off in the SM.
Even if you do turn DNIe off in the SM, it turns back on once you turn the set off and on. I'm pretty sure that there is presently not anyway to turn DNIe off permanently.

Samsung mentions a "dead pixel" policy for DLPs within the FAQ of their support site. Perhaps they just use the term "dead pixel" because it's already an understood phrase for LCD-land. So maybe it's technically incorrect to use that term.

The policy essentially says that 1 dead pixel stuck on (white spot) or 2 dead pixels stuck off (black spot) are out of spec.

I've got a bright white spot on all channels and all inputs. It's clearly visible on a channel with no signal and when the television is first powered off.

Haven't talked to Tweeter yet, but I'm sure they'll swap the tele.

I hope I'm the only person who has experienced this as I don't want to worry about this recurring on a $4k+ tele. I'd suspect it's not cheap to fix when out of warranty.
Call 1-800-Samsung ... they will arrange a repair or just swap the TV out with Tweeter. Stuck/dead pixels are extremely rare.

How many dead pixels have ye? 11 days I've had the 6178, and I've now got 1 dead white pixel screen center. Sigh.
I had my TV's for 3 Months now and no dead pixels. So far so good. But it doesnt mean that it wont stay like that.

ok, here's what I've got.

new (11/1 ish) 5078.
pc with nvidia 6800gt
dvi output to dell 24" lcd
vga output via gefen extendit to tv

trying to use the tv as a second display with dualview. actually, i'm not sure that's relevant because I get the same results disconnecting the lcd, and also when removing the gefen extender and dragging the pc over to the tv to connect directly.

basically my problem is:
1: it simply will not do 1080p. "unsupported mode". fiddled endlessly with settings in the nvidia advanced timings section (yes i have the newest drivers)

2. i can get it to do 1080i, but not reliably. the same setting will sometimes work and sometimes not. also, when switching resolutions to something else, and then back, it never works, i get "unsupported mode". this also happens with every reboot.

3. most other resolutions are unreliable as well. for example, i can set the nvidia stuff to do fullscreen video on the tv, and watch a dvd in powerdvd, which outputs to the tv in fullscreen. tv info reports 720x400 @85hz (which i think must be a typo, it should be 720x480, right?), but there is LARGE underscan and the pc adjustment stuff mostly cannot correct it, the bar will only move so far. also, when stopping the dvd and returning to the 1080i desktop, i get "unsupported mode" (see #2)

4. the computer will inexplicably freeze somewhat frequently, forcing a hardware reboot.

please note, while i am new to htpc, i have 25+yrs experience with computers as a software engineer, system designer, hardware geek, hardcore gamer etc. in fact, my wife (also a programmer) calls my desktop "my first wife", and i don't think she's kidding :rolleyes: in short, there's nothing wrong with the computer per se, worked like a dream with just the lcd. all os patches, new drivers, etc...

what am i doing wrong? :confused:

any help or insight into this would be appreciated. i did play ut2004 for a little while in 1080i and (aside from some minor shearing that i think vsync would fix) it really looked awesome. very excited about the whole thing, just wish i could get it to work the way i want...

The only way to turn the DNIe on and off is in the SM and it is not recommended for anyone to enter the SM. Any changes could affect the PQ. Some had trouble turning it off in the SM.
:eek: Why didnt Samsung make these issues resolved right from the beginning? They should of let the user, since we are paying over $4K for each set to set the DNIe on/off with the touch of a button, to update the Firmware with the use of our Laptop computers from the Samsung website and then program the TV this way. Also they really should of thought of, which they probably have and havent done to make PIP with one touch of a button and located close to the Channel button. :o

Also to make the tv's work better with the computers and supply us with the proper cable that would work with the TV and computer. :(

These simple things will make the TV more user freindly and more inticing to buy. :D

I bet Samsung is listening to all of our input here on this forum and we should see these changes on next year's model possibly? ;)

That is how I feel about the Samsung issues. :)

ok, here's what I've got.

new (11/1 ish) 5078.
pc with nvidia 6800gt
dvi output to dell 24" lcd
vga output via gefen extendit to tv

trying to use the tv as a second display with dualview. actually, i'm not sure that's relevant because I get the same results disconnecting the lcd, and also when removing the gefen extender and dragging the pc over to the tv to connect directly.

basically my problem is:
1: it simply will not do 1080p. "unsupported mode". fiddled endlessly with settings in the nvidia advanced timings section (yes i have the newest drivers)

2. i can get it to do 1080i, but not reliably. the same setting will sometimes work and sometimes not. also, when switching resolutions to something else, and then back, it never works, i get "unsupported mode". this also happens with every reboot.

3. most other resolutions are unreliable as well. for example, i can set the nvidia stuff to do fullscreen video on the tv, and watch a dvd in powerdvd, which outputs to the tv in fullscreen. tv info reports 720x400 @85hz (which i think must be a typo, it should be 720x480, right?), but there is LARGE underscan and the pc adjustment stuff mostly cannot correct it, the bar will only move so far. also, when stopping the dvd and returning to the 1080i desktop, i get "unsupported mode" (see #2)

4. the computer will inexplicably freeze somewhat frequently, forcing a hardware reboot.

please note, while i am new to htpc, i have 25+yrs experience with computers as a software engineer, system designer, hardware geek, hardcore gamer etc. in fact, my wife (also a programmer) calls my desktop "my first wife", and i don't think she's kidding :rolleyes: in short, there's nothing wrong with the computer per se, worked like a dream with just the lcd. all os patches, new drivers, etc...

what am i doing wrong? :confused:

any help or insight into this would be appreciated. i did play ut2004 for a little while in 1080i and (aside from some minor shearing that i think vsync would fix) it really looked awesome. very excited about the whole thing, just wish i could get it to work the way i want...


At a minimum you should have no problems getting 1920x1080@60Hz when you connect VGA directly to your set. If you get the unsupported mode message or the large underscan in this configuration, then it is most likely due to your VGA cable. The solution is to use a cheap VGA cable.

The banding in Nemo is a well known problem with the DVD. It is not an issue with your set. ;)

I have watched Nemo on about 10 different display devices since I bought it on release day and never noticed the banding as bad as I do on the Sammy.

Edit - I just read in the DVD software section about this Nemo banding. Funny how this is the first I have heard of it.

Ok my 6168 was just delivered from Magnolia. Im in a cold climate and today its 11 degrees outside. I am afraid to turn the set on because i remember something about waiting til the tv reaches room temp. when i got my HLN 720p set. Do i need to wait or can i turn it on? Im hoping its ok to turn it on now. Can anyone tell me how much better the PQ is on these 1080p sets than the HLN 720p sets? regarding HD and SD.\\
Thanks.

Im hoping its ok to turn it on now.Wait! :eek:

how long?

how long?Until it's internals are at room temp.

how long?
Next Wednesday.

what happens if i turn the tv on and its not room temp?

Your house will burn down with you in it.

lol i just am so impatient but at the same time i dont want to ruin it.

well i turned the thermostat up and its warm in the room and its been here for almost 2 hours just want to know when its safe cant tell the internal temp of the thing but the outside feels about the same temp as the table its on.

well i turned the thermostat up and its warm in the room and its been here for almost 2 hours just want to know when its safe cant tell the internal temp of the thing but the outside feels about the same temp as the table its on.

Dude go for it!!!!

I'm thinking the dead pixel issue mentioned above is the smudge effect instead? You can't have a dead pixel with the set off or something he mentioned? The smudge effect was moisture or something between the screen layers as I recall and my first Sammy had it. Just thinking now you'd have to be really close to the set to even notice one dead pixel?

ok i am ready to turn the set on. I plan to send the HD STB to the tv via component til i can get a dvi to hdmi converter. My question is if i split the cable before it runs into the STB can i plug it into the air and get HD OTA that way? Or do i need some special kind of antenna to get the OTA in my area? Other than that I would like to know if anyone has any suggested settings once i get started. I will post photos of my HTPC on screen and anything anyone cares to see.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

I think temperature could be a valid issue. I don't think the set is as sensitive as a camcorder or hard drive but I'd imagine there could be moisture behind the screen at least? I don't think anything would be damaged, however if you noticed something wasn't right I'd bet it was due to the quick change in temperature.

did everyone set up the TV Guide thing or did most people skip it and just use the STB guide from the cable company?

At a minimum you should have no problems getting 1920x1080@60Hz when you connect VGA directly to your set. If you get the unsupported mode message or the large underscan in this configuration, then it is most likely due to your VGA cable. The solution is to use a cheap VGA cable.

I am typing this from my TV screen at the moment and it can be made to work. I am using an ATI All-in-Wonder X800T. It allows me to pick 1920x1080 @60 Hz. I had trouble when I first started because I had a monitor cable that was missing the pins that the card and TV use to negotiate the available resolutions. Here is what to check:


The cable needs to have ALL the pins on both ends. Also make sure your video driver "sees" the second monitor as "Samsung" or at least as "Plug and Play" monitor.

Musashi_san, first of all I don't know what this is "vga output via gefen extendit to tv"? Don't use anything but one long enough, cheap VGA cable with male pins on both ends. You should find one for about $2 per foot. Don't use Nview or other software, just go to advanced in display in control panel. There you should see both monitors if they are connected and probably on. Identify which is which and make one the primary with or without attached. The two monitors could be either left, right or use just one. I have the 6600 and I sometimes have trouble keeping the left on the left or using single or dual monitors.

Minime9us, afaik only use the TV Guide if you are using a cable card and or OTA only. It is not useful if you have cable or satellite. There is a way to shut it off but I forget, sorry.

Just to add, you can easily change the display settings anytime in control panel mentioned above. I have had problems but it is easily fixed, just annoying.

TV Guide Problem w/ my Samsung 6168W

Several OTA digital channels do not show up on the TV Guide grid. I live in the Portland Oregon area. I know of two channels that have this problem: 10-2 PBS and DTV40 CBS. The TV can select these channels if I type in the channel number. They just don't show up when I open TV Guide. I tried Auto Program several times. They make no difference.

I called Samsung. The operator, who don't seem to be technical, told me that it was the problem with the TV broadcast signal. I find that hard to believe. I'm waiting for his supervisor to call me back. Any idea on solving this problem is highly appreciated.

I'm thinking the dead pixel issue mentioned above is the smudge effect instead? You can't have a dead pixel with the set off or something he mentioned? The smudge effect was moisture or something between the screen layers as I recall and my first Sammy had it. Just thinking now you'd have to be really close to the set to even notice one dead pixel?

It's definitely a dead pixel and it's definitely very noticable. To clarify what I see, it's always visible when the television is turned on, regardless of source. When the TV is first turned off, the signal is cut but the lamp remains on for a few seconds (cool down?). During this period, the screen is entirely black except for that stuck on mirror/pixel.

Tweeter seemed to know what I meant and is swapping me a new one.

If what I'm saying isn't clear to you all, either I'm really bad at explaining things or it's a very rare problem. I hope it's the latter, but I could see how it's the former. :D

I called Samsung. The operator, who don't seem to be technical, told me that it was the problem with the TV broadcast signal. I find that hard to believe. I'm waiting for his supervisor to call me back. Any idea on solving this problem is highly appreciated.

Just be glad it works at all.

I get no TV Guide programming, but the TV is able to pick up the station IDs.

It's a very rare problem!

Just be glad it works at all.

I get no TV Guide programming, but the TV is able to pick up the station IDs.
I wonder if it is true that many areas cannot get TV Guide to work properly. If so, perhaps I should shut up and just accept the fact that I need to memorize the channel numbers.

well i turned the thermostat up and its warm in the room and its been here for almost 2 hours just want to know when its safe cant tell the internal temp of the thing but the outside feels about the same temp as the table its on.
You are ok to turn it on now, 2 hours is perfect. You will be fine. :)

I wonder if it is true that many areas cannot get TV Guide to work properly. If so, perhaps I should shut up and just accept the fact that I need to memorize the channel numbers.
Many areas can not get the TV guide channels. My friend cant, but I can. I dont even use it because I have HD Dish setup.

It's definitely a dead pixel and it's definitely very noticable. To clarify what I see, it's always visible when the television is turned on, regardless of source. When the TV is first turned off, the signal is cut but the lamp remains on for a few seconds (cool down?). During this period, the screen is entirely black except for that stuck on mirror/pixel.

Tweeter seemed to know what I meant and is swapping me a new one.

If what I'm saying isn't clear to you all, either I'm really bad at explaining things or it's a very rare problem. I hope it's the latter, but I could see how it's the former. :D
You defined the problem well. I still think that the TV has a problem.
Exchange it if you can. Dont wait.

did everyone set up the TV Guide thing or did most people skip it and just use the STB guide from the cable company?
The TV guide system on the TV sucks. It is better to use the guide that you get from the cable company, Dish network or Direct TV.

I hate the TV Guide and wish there was a way of turning the darn thing off! It's annoying, everytime you turn on the TV you have to hit a button on the remote to make it go away!

Wasn't their discussion on the TV Guide being broadcast from PBS or something? Maybe I'm nuts? Someone here should have more info on it.

You can turn off the TV Guide if you don't want to use it. I did it for my friend's set. I never activated it on mine so it wasn't an issue and why I don't remember how to do it.

I hate the TV Guide and wish there was a way of turning the darn thing off! It's annoying, everytime you turn on the TV you have to hit a button on the remote to make it go away!

There is an option from within the TV Guide menu to disable it on startup.

OK the TV Guide so far is a piece of crap. I have my STB outputting 1080i to component 2. but for some reason its saying the channels will be available shortly, might have to call my cable company.
This is my setup.
I have cable out of the wall split and one is going to the (air) and the other is going to the Moto STB and out via component to the tv. I cant make the tv remote change the channels on the STB even though i attached the little infrared TV Guide to it. I still have to change the STB with the Moto remote. I programmed channels but it can only do it thru (air) and it only finds 10 channels. I thought it would be able to find the ones that are OTA as well but they all look like analog channels SD. When i switch to component 2 (STB) then i still have to use the STB remote but for some reason the channels arent there yet. Did i do something wrong here? I have SS HD931 hooked up to component 2 outputting 1080i and it looks ok but no better than the 61inch 720p HLN i just got rid of. Pros is better shadow detail and cons is that when there is a still shot the picture shimmers, never saw that on the 720p is that because of the wobbulation? I figure that if i can figure this all out then the HTPC part will be easy. Hopefully

Please someone give me some good settings i dont know if i should be in dynamic or movie or what for best PQ. Oh and if someone knows how to turn the TV Guide off please let me know. Thanks

Minime9us, believe me, connecting a HTPC is much easier than all of this!

just realized that the HD 931 only outputs 480i/p when using component so when i get a dvi/hmdi cable it will be getting the 1080i so that might explain the shimmering on still moments while watching Sea Biscuit. Looks good though but i know it will probably be much better at 1080i. Yeah HTPC will be much easier. I remember when i connected the HTPC to my HLN it just found the set as plug and play and auto set the resolution to 720p. I might have to go in and change to 1920x1080 but thats all i expect to have to do. Wish my cable was working so i could see what HD looks like. Might call the cable company. I will post some pics if anyone is interested in seeing something let me know.

To turn off TV Guide, bring up TV Guide menu, setup, change default options, general defaults, autoguide "off", done.

TV GUIDE topic.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=510125

My friend has had problems with his STB. One was replaced but he has had similar problems. I found that if you unplug the power for a minute that the STB resets. You'll lose the data info but the STB works. I think it took two hours to get the data back up.

ok wow now i have my STB feeding the 6168 1080i and my son just walked into the room. He said wow Looks like 3D. Now he just loved the 61inch 720p HLN so i asked him did it look better and all he could do was just grin and say yes.
Man all i need is a vga cable to get true 1080p and i dont have one cant believe it. I have every cable except that one.

How do you post pictures in here you guys have got to see this.

I did see a little lip sync problem on ESPNHD from the announcers, that was the first time i ever saw that. My 61inch HLN didnt have that problem although i heard about it by many.

Overall very pleased with PQ just knowing it only gets better when i get the HTPC cable, and i havent even turned off the DNIE yet which i heard someone say will improve the picture even more.

aaronwt

When you get your VP30, are you going to try the VGA for 1080P as well as the HDMI with 1080i. I really would like to hear how they compare. You are going to get yours before I get mine.

Here are a couple of pictures that show the ringing or edge enhancement(not sure what it's called) produced with DNIe on and a picture of the same area with it off? I'll have to try and get better pictures later since I need to pull out the tripod to get the best pics.

aaronwt

When you get your VP30, are you going to try the VGA for 1080P as well as the HDMI with 1080i. I really would like to hear how they compare. You are going to get yours before I get mine.


I plan on trying it, although I don't know if it will work. I couldn't get it to work with the iscanHD+, but I didn't really go through the settings to try and change the timings. If that needs to be done, I'd rather just input the correct settings after DVDO confims them

I plan on trying it, although I don't know if it will work. I couldn't get it to work with the iscanHD+, but I didn't really go through the settings to try and change the timings. If that needs to be done, I'd rather just input the correct settings after DVDO confims them

I think it would be a good idea if you strained your brain to figure it out and we give mine a rest. Besides, you want to have it set up so Eliab can calibrate that input. :D

Aaronwt, I assume those pics are from the SM? Any tip on how to get to the SM? I tried the steps earlier and couldn't get it to work. Also, would you post a pic of the same content with the DNIe on and off? That would really show the difference as long as the HD show was the same.

minime9us you should maybe post one post with all of your bullet points, rather than 9 single-line posts, hehe. Might be easier to manage.

As for the TV Guide, both with my STB and my Cablecard, it has worked perfectly. When you set up the TV Guide (I'm assuming you actually went through the steps that are in the TV Guide setup manual?) you should have placed the G-Link wand in front of your STB and you should have had a menu on the TV Guide setup where it tries various codes for your STB until it gets one that works. While it's doing this, you have to have one of the G-Link wands in front of the STB! With my old motorola comcast box, it ended up using a code that wasn't on its list, but it found it by going through codes numerically.

Did you do this setup at all? It should have worked before your setup process was even completed for the TV Guide. You put in your zip code, pick your provider, and find the codes...and blam, it works.

Further, in the TV's setup, there is a menu item about using G-Link or Anynet, you should make sure it's set to G-Link. (it's under setup I believe)

If you've set up the TV Guide correctly, and you have the G-Link wands placed correctly, then when your TV is off, you should see the channels on your STB changing periodically. After about 24hours, you will have listings. And if the wands are in place, you can change channels on the STB with your TV remote.

SV

Spass i apologize about all the mini posts, just a little too excited i guess, I went thru all those steps with the tv guide and it even switched the tv to channel 9 when it found the right code, however the tv remote would not change the channel afterward and i think i found out why. I have decided not to use the TV Guide since i dont see a benefit in using it other than having to use 2 remotes instead of 1. Im already use to my cables guide anyway so i just turned the tv guide thing off. If there is a benefit being able to use one remote please let me know. Oh i just played NFL Fever 2002 on xbox via component it was sharp but the colors looked really bad has anyone else seen this and know how to fix it. I tried everything. I can post a picture if i can figure out how

i bought a cheap vga cable...i got an ati card with 2 dvi..im using the dvi to vga adapter..the one that comes with ati...using a cheap cable which i bought at cyberguys.com for 15 bucks...i cant get the tv to accept 1080p at all...just 720p, and when im playing videos with wmp and windvd and then click the info button on the tv it says 1024x768 or something else except 720p.... whats going on???

:(

got it to run at 1600x1200 max...anything above that it says not supported... boo!!

got it to run at 1600x1200 max...anything above that it says not supported... boo!!

I believe I had to go into Display properties and on settings tab change the display to 1920 by 1080.

The only way to turn the DNIe on and off is in the SM and it is not recommended for anyone to enter the SM. Any changes could affect the PQ. Some had trouble turning it off in the SM.

This is my first post, so first off – thanks to all who have provided the wealth of information I’ve found on this forum.

Getting ready to sign on the dotted line for a 5668, but I do have a concern about being able to turn on/off DNIe - its impact on PQ aside, I just like to be in control.

Also thinking any additional processing has got to take time, and why spend time you don’t need (think gaming lag).

Anyway, reading through the official FAQ on the Samsung site, I stumbled across the below method of turning off DNIe on "most" DLP's - just want to confirm that recent xx68 sammies don't fall into the "most" category(i.e.: it just ain't this easy).

<quote>
To turn on DNIe on most Samsung DLP TVs, follow these steps:

1. Turn on your TV.
2. Press the Menu button on your remote. The Main menu appears.
3. Press the Up or Down arrow button on your remote to select Picture, and then press the Enter button. The Picture menu appears.
4. Press the Up or Down arrow button on your remote to select DNIe and then press the Enter button.
5. Press the Up or Down arrow button on your remote to select Off, Demo, or On, and then press the Enter button.
6. Press the Exit button to exit.

Note: If your remote has a DNIe button, you can press the DNIe button repeatedly to cycle through the On, Off, and Demo settings instead of accessing the DNIe settings through the Menu.

</quote>

ps: would have posted the link itself but it was un-bookmarkable

I believe I had to go into Display properties and on settings tab change the display to 1920 by 1080.
says mode not supported

What the heck!!! I just get back from Wal Mart with a vga cable and find that both the video card and the tv have female inputs. Rediculous.

I will pay him for the secret of turning off DNIE. I am going mad over this.

Folks,

I was very fortunate to have Eliab calibrate my 5678 on Saturday. He is quite the pro (and an overall Dude)! Not only did he tweek all the settings to bring everything in line with SMPTE standards, he performed a ring focus adjustment, and a few other tweeks to make what I thought was an awesome picture, STUNNING!

The biggest thing though (get ready to get pissed) is that he figured out how to disable DNIe. All I can say is that I am PISSED that somebody at Samsung decided to make DNIe ALWAYS ON for this series, and removed our ability to control the setting (which as I understand is available on previous models)! This person should be FIRED immediately!!

You should be PISSED too! We should start a petition and DEMAND that Samsung give us back control of a setting that literally makes your picture SUCK big time! You cannot change this with your remote, but suffice it to say, with the correct remote and settings, you can definitely disable DNIe. The drag is that you have to do it each time you turn on the set. It is not a permanent fix, just a workaround. But, the upside is that the result of having DNIe OFF is a MUCH IMPROVED picture. Shadow detail is back and black crush is reduced. It actually is quite amazing what the difference is. It really sucks that our sets are stuck with this handicapped feature. Get MAD folks, we need to take action to get this fixed. What they did is VERY wrong :mad:

Also, if you have the opportunity to have Eliab calibrate your set, I would highly recommend that you do. He will be doing a lot less tours next year. He really is quite an artist :)

I was looking to upgrade some software and came across an interesting statement.
"Now supports Blu-ray technology.
Nero 7 now gives you the ability to burn your data to BD-RE and BD-R (Blu-ray) media, which enables you to store enormous amounts of data (25-50 GB) onto a single disc."

What the heck!!! I just get back from Wal Mart with a vga cable and find that both the video card and the tv have female inputs. Rediculous.
That is the norm isn't it? All my video cards and monitors have always needs a male connector on the vga cable.

:eek: Why didnt Samsung make these issues resolved right from the beginning? They should of let the user, since we are paying over $4K for each set to set the DNIe on/off with the touch of a button, to update the Firmware with the use of our Laptop computers from the Samsung website and then program the TV this way. Also they really should of thought of, which they probably have and havent done to make PIP with one touch of a button and located close to the Channel button. :o

Also to make the tv's work better with the computers and supply us with the proper cable that would work with the TV and computer. :(

These simple things will make the TV more user freindly and more inticing to buy. :D

I bet Samsung is listening to all of our input here on this forum and we should see these changes on next year's model possibly? ;)

That is how I feel about the Samsung issues. :)


i'm sure i beat this to death, but here is a link to a petition that will be brough before samsung engineers next week, by a calibrator that works closely with samsung. if you haven't singed it please take a second.

http://www.thepetitionsite.com/takeaction/212553992

got it to run at 1600x1200 max...anything above that it says not supported... boo!!

Check the ends of your VGA cable; if any pins are missing you will not get over 1600x1200. I had the same problem. In the Catalyst control panel you must see "Samsung" as the monitor before it will allow 1920x1080.

That is the norm isn't it? All my video cards and monitors have always needs a male connector on the vga cable.

Yes that is the norm for a VGA cable, it sounds like he bought a M-F which is a VGA extension cable.

This is my first post, so first off – thanks to all who have provided the wealth of information I’ve found on this forum.

Getting ready to sign on the dotted line for a 5668, but I do have a concern about being able to turn on/off DNIe - its impact on PQ aside, I just like to be in control.

Also thinking any additional processing has got to take time, and why spend time you don’t need (think gaming lag).

Anyway, reading through the official FAQ on the Samsung site, I stumbled across the below method of turning off DNIe on "most" DLP's - just want to confirm that recent xx68 sammies don't fall into the "most" category(i.e.: it just ain't this easy).

<quote>
To turn on DNIe on most Samsung DLP TVs, follow these steps:

1. Turn on your TV.
2. Press the Menu button on your remote. The Main menu appears.
3. Press the Up or Down arrow button on your remote to select Picture, and then press the Enter button. The Picture menu appears.
4. Press the Up or Down arrow button on your remote to select DNIe and then press the Enter button.
5. Press the Up or Down arrow button on your remote to select Off, Demo, or On, and then press the Enter button.
6. Press the Exit button to exit.

Note: If your remote has a DNIe button, you can press the DNIe button repeatedly to cycle through the On, Off, and Demo settings instead of accessing the DNIe settings through the Menu.

</quote>

ps: would have posted the link itself but it was un-bookmarkable


The HL-Rxx68 do not have a DNIe On/Off as described. The only way to turn off DNIe is through the service menu and you have to do it every time you turn on the TV.

Thank you guys for clearing up the vga cable, i just looked at the box it came in and it says monitor extension cable. It cost only 16 dollars so i figured it was the cheap one as i read only the cheap ones work. Well im going to take this one back to Walmart today and maybe go to radio shack or somewhere and get the right cable. Is there anything other than being cheap that i should look for. Like number of pins? Or will i be better off getting an adapter for this one and keeping it? It was only 16 dollars so i figured it was the cheap kind that most people have reported works. Man this TV looks awesome. I watched return of the Sith last night from the SS HD-931 via component and it looked like Hidef almost. So much more detail than my old HLN im simply amazed and i still have yet to adjust anything or turn off DNIE or hook up the HTPC. Maybe i missed all the hoopla during the first 225 or so pages but it seems like im the only excited person around here. Forgive me if im wrong. Maybe im just a little late.

Thank you guys for clearing up the vga cable, i just looked at the box it came in and it says monitor extension cable. It cost only 16 dollars so i figured it was the cheap one as i read only the cheap ones work. Well im going to take this one back to Walmart today and maybe go to radio shack or somewhere and get the right cable. Is there anything other than being cheap that i should look for. Like number of pins? Or will i be better off getting an adapter for this one and keeping it? It was only 16 dollars so i figured it was the cheap kind that most people have reported works. Man this TV looks awesome. I watched return of the Sith last night from the SS HD-931 via component and it looked like Hidef almost. So much more detail than my old HLN im simply amazed and i still have yet to adjust anything or turn off DNIE or hook up the HTPC. Maybe i missed all the hoopla during the first 225 or so pages but it seems like im the only excited person around here. Forgive me if im wrong. Maybe im just a little late.

What you want is a VESA DCC VGA cable. It has the correct pinouts for the computer and TV to negotiate the supported modes and refresh rates.

Hi Guys. I had my set (Hlr5688) calibrated yesterday by Eliab from AVICAL (http://www.avical.com/). I have good news and bad news. First the good. Eliab was very professional and explained everything as he went along. I was so thrilled to finally have someone calibrate my T.V. who actually not only knew what they were doing but was an expert at it. It was a pleasure to meet him. He calibrated my set as best he could. Showed me how to disable DNIE and improved the color and image a lot. The bad news is my set is defective.! Of course with my luck how could it not be?

As Eliab was adjusting a color it would shift 3000 degrees from just one number of adjustment. This happened in both HDMI and Component. I can just see me calling Samsung service (AGAIN!) and telling them this to fix my set. Yeah that'll happen. So the color temperature is as best as he could do with my set. I think it was somewhere in the 13K at the start and he managed to get it down to somewhere in the 8500s.

Anyway, even with the disappointment of that it was a positive experience. I will definitely have him down again to calibrate any TV I ever have. It is worth the wait for sure. I recommend him highly.

I don't know of any specifics other than just a plain vanilla monitor cable, pins on both ends that cost around $2 per foot. I think just about any kind will work. I have a 15' for about $30 from Staples and it works great. I'm thrilled. I think someone here has one even longer.

Wingnut4772, what was wrong with the set before? I don't remember? I hope you do get the set fixed. Did he know what part needed to be replaced? I guess I don't understand if you get the part fixed, will he need to recalibrate the set? Will he charge for that? How did he know the set was defective? Did you notice anything wrong before he mentioned it?

Hi Guys. I had my set (Hlr5688) calibrated yesterday by Eliab from AVICAL (http://www.avical.com/). I have good news and bad news. First the good. Eliab was very professional and explained everything as he went along. I was so thrilled to finally have someone calibrate my T.V. who actually not only knew what they were doing but was an expert at it. It was a pleasure to meet him. He calibrated my set as best he could. Showed me how to disable DNIE and improved the color and image a lot. The bad news is my set is defective.! Of course with my luck how could it not be?

As Eliab was adjusting a color it would shift 3000 degrees from just one number of adjustment. This happened in both HDMI and Component. I can just see me calling Samsung service (AGAIN!) and telling them this to fix my set. Yeah that'll happen. So the color temperature is as best as he could do with my set. I think it was somewhere in the 13K at the start and he managed to get it down to somewhere in the 8500s.

Anyway, even with the disappointment of that it was a positive experience. I will definitely have him down again to calibrate any TV I ever have. It is worth the wait for sure. I recommend him highly.

Wingnut.
What does that cost to do? So even with a brand new TV its best to have it calibrated like that?

Wingnut.
What does that cost to do? So even with a brand new TV its best to have it calibrated like that?

David Abrams (Eliab's partner) was at my house last night. Unlike most of you folks, David works within walking distance of my house. Check out pricing at http://www.avical.com.

David explained that the settings the different manufacturers deliver the sets with are intended to show them off in the store showroom. These settings are not to SMPTE or ANSI specs. So, one of the tasks the calibration will do is conform your, yes brand new, set settings to these SMPTE and ANSI specs.


Jim

David Abrams (Eliab's partner) was at my house last night. Unlike most of you folks, David works within walking distance of my house. Check out pricing at http://www.avical.com.

David explained that the settings the different manufacturers deliver the sets with are intended to show them off in the store showroom. These settings are not to SMPTE or ANSI specs. So, one of the tasks the calibration will do is conform your, yes brand new, set settings to these SMPTE and ANSI specs.


Jim


I just had my set calibrated over the weekend. I watched "The Incredibles" and Ep. III afterwards and was blown away by how good everything looked. It was well worth it.

Eliab said that something was wrong with the way the set translates incoming sources. The internal test patterns were perfect. It was only when he hooked up to an outside source that a certain color adjustment setting was way out of whack. I called Samsung today and they put in a request to replace the set......again. Eliab said he would calibrate the replacement at no charge but that may be in a year or so when he returns to Miami ...as far as pricing check out the Avical link above and email Eliab. He is the real deal.

Spass i apologize about all the mini posts, just a little too excited i guess, I went thru all those steps with the tv guide and it even switched the tv to channel 9 when it found the right code, however the tv remote would not change the channel afterward and i think i found out why. I have decided not to use the TV Guide since i dont see a benefit in using it other than having to use 2 remotes instead of 1. Im already use to my cables guide anyway so i just turned the tv guide thing off. If there is a benefit being able to use one remote please let me know. Oh i just played NFL Fever 2002 on xbox via component it was sharp but the colors looked really bad has anyone else seen this and know how to fix it. I tried everything. I can post a picture if i can figure out how


The TV Guide information is broadcast OTA from a local PBS station in the Vertical Blanking Interval. Not all locations in the country are covered. In addition, it takes at least four days for the all the stations listed to be populated for all seven days. TV Guide has previously announced that it will add D* and E* to its schedule before the end of the year.

I will pay him for the secret of turning off DNIE. I am going mad over this.

binyu99

Look at message # 6745 in this thread. That goes into detail on how to turn off DNIe.

Does anyone know of a good professional calibrator in the Toronto, Ontario area.

Does anyone know of a good professional calibrator in the Toronto, Ontario area.


This is not really an answer, but you might check out http://www.imagingscience.com/isf-trained.cfm

for Canada/Toronto.

i'm sure i beat this to death, but here is a link to a petition that will be brough before samsung engineers next week, by a calibrator that works closely with samsung. if you haven't singed it please take a second.

http://www.thepetitionsite.com/takeaction/212553992

Thanks Sampsonjw. I completed the petition.

Thanks I was already at that website. I was hoping somebody could recommend someone that they've used and if they were happy with the results. Especially if they have one of the Samsung 1080P

I just came back with my vga cable and i connected it to the HTPC and the computer and it instantly was at 720p the way i had it set up for the HLN but i went in and changed it to 1920x1080@60Hz and all is playing well. Was watching Chronicles of Riddick at 1080p within 5 minutes of walking in the door with the cable. All i can say is wow, must be the right cable. When i click the info button it shows a resolution of 1920x1080@60Hz. That does mean 1080p right? Next this picture is great other than not quite as sharp as the HLN was but then again i havent tweaked one single thing yet. They are OOTB settings still. Id like to post some pics if someone woul be so kind as to explain how to do it.

Thanks all you guys for your help, Im enjoying this set very much.

I have good news to all. Eliab just emailed me and told me that he has a gentleman that works close to him in this field of calibrating our TV's the 1080p Samsungs. He will call me soon. He works in Southern California.

"My business associate David Abrams who services the southern CA vicinity is actually just as proficient on these displays as I am and comes equipped with the legendary PR650...:-) I will forward this e-mail to him and perhaps he can
assist you in the not too distant future."

I am so happy now. :)

I just came back with my vga cable and i connected it to the HTPC and the computer and it instantly was at 720p the way i had it set up for the HLN but i went in and changed it to 1920x1080@60Hz and all is playing well. Was watching Chronicles of Riddick at 1080p within 5 minutes of walking in the door with the cable. All i can say is wow, must be the right cable. When i click the info button it shows a resolution of 1920x1080@60Hz. That does mean 1080p right? Next this picture is great other than not quite as sharp as the HLN was but then again i havent tweaked one single thing yet. They are OOTB settings still. Id like to post some pics if someone woul be so kind as to explain how to do it.

Thanks all you guys for your help, Im enjoying this set very much.

hey dude. does your video card have a vga output? or dual dvi? i cant get my tv to support 1080p at all...im using a dvi-vga adapter that came with my ati card...but i cant get higheer then 1600x1024 ...could it be the adapter thats not working well?
im gonna head out to radioshack and get another adapter..see if thats the problem.. im using a cheap vga cable by the way.. :P

thanks man

I would check your video card first to be sure it can handle the set? The adapter should be fine and you seem to think the cable should work? I would check the specs of the card before you get an adapter you might need to return.

hey dude. does your video card have a vga output? or dual dvi? i cant get my tv to support 1080p at all...im using a dvi-vga adapter that came with my ati card...but i cant get higheer then 1600x1024 ...could it be the adapter thats not working well?
im gonna head out to radioshack and get another adapter..see if thats the problem.. im using a cheap vga cable by the way.. :P

thanks man

Gaston my video card is the Radeon 9800Pro it has dvi out and vga out. It also came with the dvi/vga adapter. I dont use the adapter. I just picked up the vga cable from radio shack. 6 foot cable for 21 dollars. I chose not to use the adapter because the way i see it, the less connections the less i have to worry about trying to figure out what could be a problem. Why dont you just get the vga cable. Does your video card not have vga out?

Oh update on PQ. I said earlier that my set wasnt as sharp as the HLN well i used ffdshow and upped the unsharp mask and now its unbelievable, so much so that at the moment i have a friend over that has the 5668. He has seen chronicles of Riddick in hidef on one of the premium channels. He said that after i sharpened the picture that it looked better than it did in hidef on his 5668. He couldnt even stop commenting. To tell the truth i didnt even think it would be this good and i had big hopes. DNIE, if it is a problem i cant tell from the HTPC, but if its better without DNIE that would be good but this has already exceeded my expectations. I would love to post some pics and since no one has volunteered to tell me how to do it if someone could tell me where to find instructions on doing it on this site. Gaston let me know how things are going for you and i will help you as much as i can.
LOL he just came in here in the middle of my correcting this post saying that it looks so good it hurts and that he cant believe it.

trying to post photo how do i do it.

On message box at bottom Hit go advanced button,and go to additional options.Go to attach files,hit Manage Attachments.There is a limit on the size but cant remember

Edit:Allowed photo is 800x640

congrats on your pc connection!!! hehe i too have a 5688 ( loving it!!}
i have an ati x850 xt pe card with dual dvi ports, no vga out...i think the dvi to vga adapter might be the problem...cuz i already tried 3 cheap cables..and they all get to 1600x1024 so its gotta be the adapter..or.. ( prays ) it could be the tv too..
anyways cant wait to see your pictures man..i would love to start using ffshow with 1080p on the tv

Gaston

Showed me how to disable DNIE and improved the color and image a lot. The bad news is my set is defective.! Of course with my luck how could it not be?

As Eliab was adjusting a color it would shift 3000 degrees from just one number of adjustment. This happened in both HDMI and Component. I can just see me calling Samsung service (AGAIN!) and telling them this to fix my set. Yeah that'll happen. So the color temperature is as best as he could do with my set. I think it was somewhere in the 13K at the start and he managed to get it down to somewhere in the 8500s.

For the DNIe, I assume he showed you how to turn it off in the SM, but if you turn the set off and back on, it goes back on, i.e., there is no way to permanently turn off DNIe, right?

As for the color adjustments, did the problem occur with changes he was making to the SM or user menu? The reason I'm asking is b/c you said it happened for HDMI and component, but if it is a SM change, I thought with these sets it is not necessary to do SM adjustments separately for each input. Also, if you could give a bit more detail about the issue, that would be great. I think this may relate to another issue that has been discussed, but I'm not certain. If so, exchanging your set won't help as this occurs on all the Samsung 1080p sets. If you want, you can PM me.

ok Gaston i just got back home and im using my tv as the monitor as i type this post. Im about to take some pictures give me a few seconds and i will start posting them.

Eliab said that this was the first set that had done this in over 2000 calibrations. It ocurred in the service menu and the reason we tried component was to determine if it was a digital board issue or a tv issue just to test it.

What would happen is this: say Eliab had the red value up to adjust. He has a machine that puts out test patterns and he was using one that had a white rectangle and the black bars to either side and this pattern could change from 100% 80% 60% etc. down 10% of a value scale from darker to brighter to check the color temperature at each level.( I forget exactly what it is called).

Well , if you are at all familiar with the service menu , you know that you can gradually change the color by either raising or lowering the number value in the field next to it. Usualy the change is very subtle as you raise or lower the value. On my set, the rectangle went from a purply grey to a sepia tone in just 1 number - from 508 to 509! Eliab said that the actual difference was 3000 degrees!(in color temp talk). This is a Ginormous leap. It happened at all % levels but was worse in the lower end. Anyhoo, he said my set was defective and I called Samsung A-FREAKIN-gain and pretty much told them to refund my money or give me another brand. If any of you are at all familiar with my struggle with my Samsungs ,(note plural)then you know that this is my 3rd set from a single purchase back in Feb 05. Each has been defective. This set replaced an HLP5688..and ya da ya da so on, etc.

As far as the DNIE, it does not stay off permanently. I have to disable it each time I wach the set.

Samsung said they would submit to replace this one.........Sigh.

Here are some of my photos from HTPC at 1080p. What do you guys think. They look better than these photos but thats with no tripod and my shallow knowledge of photography. Lights off and no flash so shutter speed was slow but i hate flash showing up on a photo.

For the DNIe, I assume he showed you how to turn it off in the SM, but if you turn the set off and back on, it goes back on, i.e., there is no way to permanently turn off DNIe, right?

Right. If you change inputs it also reverts back to on. But turning DNIe off only takes a few seconds. I still need to try programming a macro into the remote to accomplish this.

Here are some of my photos from HTPC at 1080p.

I think it's tough to assess quality of a 1920x1080 HD image from a 604x402 picture.

Even from a 1920x1080 picture it would be tough. The optics from the camera as well as the digital processing of the camera affect the picture. But from personal experience the picture looks very good at 1080P over the vga. Especially with 1080P content from WMV HD files.

aaron that makes a lot of sense, i was trying to figure out why those pics just did not do true justice to what im seeing here that explains it. I find it very hard to use the tv as a computer monitor at 1080p because the fonts and icons are so small. Is there a way to make things bigger in 1080p or should use 720p while using as a monitor and switch back to 1080p when watching movies from HTPC?

Hello all,

Concerning wingnut's 5688, it was indeed quite idiosyncratic. Up until the point when I started to key-in the DVD player the calibration was going wonderfully - as per usual with these displays. If anything, the set was actually performing slightly better than average in that I was able to nail down the coordinates either to textbook perfection or within .001% - incredibly accurate.

As stated, the issue presented itself when I attempted to tweak in the DVD player by using the coefficient parameters which usually give me just enough control to iron out the grayscale further for each individual source. This proved to be impossible as any adjustments would shift the grayscale by 3000 degrees or more! So even though we went from 9129 degrees to 6369 at 100%, and 13271 degrees to 8776 at 20%, the end result was still unacceptable. I experienced similar issues using my Accupel HDG-3000 either via the HDMI or component outputs. Again, highly idiosyncratic and a first in my book.

In my opinion, the display should definitely be replaced so that I can show wingnut how fabulous these displays can appear once they conform to system standards the way most of them can once properly calibrated!

Wingnut,

Perhaps we could work something out where I can swing down sometime in February assuming the display gets replaced... :)

Eliab

Minime9us, I know what you mean but maybe you could sit closer to the set when using it as a monitor? You can change the font size but I don't know if it will remember the setting or if it will change when you use you old monitor? Go to General in Advanced in the Advanced Display Settings in Control Panel and change the DPI setting. Normal is 96 and large is 120. I just figured out Custom although I didn't try it. That enlarges the fonts up to 500%. I didn't find 120 was large enough at the time so maybe a custom setting is the way to go. I think it only affects the font size, making it easier to read.

If you want to try and be able to select your monitor or the Sammy when you first start Windows you can change your Hardware Profile. When Windows starts you can choose computer monitor or Sammy if you make a new profile. First change the display settings for the Sammy and then make a new profile and it will apply the Sammy settings. I have it on mine but it doesn't always work. I still need to change the monitor settings manually sometimes.

Hey Eliab! February sounds great and thanks for explaining the issue. I was kinda stumbling :o I will keep you updated on the replacement. Thanks again.

Eliab im in Alaska and there are no ISF techs here i dont think. But hearing people say that ISF calibration improves the picture so much is interesting. Does it improve colors, resoution, clarity, or something else or all of the above? I ask because when i look at a movie using my HTPC @1080p input i look for things that could be improved in those categories i just asked about and dont really see too much where a noticeable improvement could occur. How clear can clear be? Maybe its ignorance on my part and im sure it is but quite plainly put how can you make something look much better when it looks like i can reach out and touch a star ship in star wars 3?

Thanks bcvp, i decided to just use 1280x720 when just using the tv for all purposes other than movie playback and everything is big and clear. I just switch it back to 1920x1080 when watching a movie. I found that its as easy as clicking the ati icon on the lower toolbar and selecting that resolution. Thanks

TV Guide Problem w/ my Samsung 6168W

Several OTA digital channels do not show up on the TV Guide grid. I live in the Portland Oregon area. I know of two channels that have this problem: 10-2 PBS and DTV40 CBS. The TV can select these channels if I type in the channel number. They just don't show up when I open TV Guide. I tried Auto Program several times. They make no difference.

I called Samsung. The operator, who don't seem to be technical, told me that it was the problem with the TV broadcast signal. I find that hard to believe. I'm waiting for his supervisor to call me back. Any idea on solving this problem is highly appreciated.


A Review of the TVGUIDE ONLINE web site states that this is normal operation.
They just don't support channel info for all channels everywhere.
If you see the channel in the SAMSUNG list of channels (your TV scanned and found the broadcast), then this is all you can do.
IN my area, they don't support schedules for channels such as INHD2, TNTHD, and a few others.
For those, I have to use the guide in the cable box.
I think you can post a question to TVGUIDE ONLINE support if you want to register a vote for adding those channels to the TV guide grid.

minime9us,

I'd be more than happy to use my frequent flyer miles to get to Alaska if there were a few more jobs waiting for me there...:rolleyes:

There are numerous areas on these Samsung displays that need further adjusting in order to produce a reference-level picture. When approached using the correct procedures and instrumentation, an appreciably improved picture will be achieved.

Clarity can be thought of as simply image crispness (resolution/focus) and/or signal integrity (unaltered source material). That said, a properly performed calibration of your 6168 will score on both counts as a ring focus adjustment can affect your perceived level of resolution and proper grayscale and SMPTE color coordinates will allow material to be viewed in the shades and colors that their director's intended thus producing a picture that's a "clearer" representation of the original source.

I make it a rule to not underestimate a person's ability to see or not see something that I can or can't. :) What I can say is that in each and every case where I calibrated someone's Samsung DLP, they were able to appreciate a difference albeit some more than others. For many, it's also important knowing that every ounce of performance is being squeezed out of their display even if the difference isn't night and day. Personally, I have difficulty enjoying a movie if I think that something can be setup more accurately on my TV... :D

I hope that this helps clarify things a little.

Regards,

Eliab

Right. If you change inputs it also reverts back to on. But turning DNIe off only takes a few seconds. I still need to try programming a macro into the remote to accomplish this.

But note that every time you do this your user menu settings will revert back to the factory default settings. Not a big deal if you haven't changed them, but a bit of a pain if you have.

Hello all,

Concerning wingnut's 5688, it was indeed quite idiosyncratic. Up until the point when I started to key-in the DVD player the calibration was going wonderfully - as per usual with these displays.

I experienced similar issues using my Accupel HDG-3000 either via the HDMI or component outputs. Again, highly idiosyncratic and a first in my book.



Eliab - I have been told that SM adjustments only need to be made in any one input and then the TV creates an algorithm that makes all the SM adjustments for each input. In fact, I thought that the SM will be the same for each input. Is that not correct and do you actually make different SM adjustments for each input?

Thanks bcvp, i decided to just use 1280x720 when just using the tv for all purposes other than movie playback and everything is big and clear. I just switch it back to 1920x1080 when watching a movie. I found that its as easy as clicking the ati icon on the lower toolbar and selecting that resolution. Thanks

I am also trying to use my 6168 as the monitor for my laptop. I have an IBM T42p with ATI Fire GL2 graphics card (128MB of memory). I got a "cheap" 25' VGA cable from monoprice and upgraded the driver for my graphics card. The settings on my laptop do give me the option of picking 1920x1080 resolution but even when I do this the picture doesn't fill the entire screen on the TV.

What am I missing? I noticed that one pin is missing on each of the male VGA connectors - is this the problem?

Also - is this all I need to be able to play DVDs from my laptop at 1080p resolution or do I need some other specialized graphics hardware and/or DVD software?

Thanks a bunch!

I don't have time now but if you get this msg you can go to the PC menu on the Sammy and make the picture adjustments like wide and then adjust the Sammy so the computer fills the screen.

[QUOTE=The settings on my laptop do give me the option of picking 1920x1080 resolution but even when I do this the picture doesn't fill the entire screen on the TV.[/QUOTE]

I asked this same question near the begining of this thread. If your laptop is set to 1920x1080, and the TV is reporting that resolution, then you are good to go and it is not a cable problem. There is a section in your owners manual for making screen changes when connecting a PC to the VGA port.

Basically there are 3 controls: Up/Down, Left/Right and Screen Size. You can get to these controls either through the menus, or with the P button on the remote (at the bottom, behind the sliding door. You start by positioning the upper left corner of your PC screen the the upper left corner of the TV with the Left/Right and Up/Down controls. Follow this with the screen size until the PC Screen reaches the lower right corner.

I didn't read the manual, but I connected my PC to two Sammy's and it worked great on both right away. You need to select Wide PC and then what I did was first center the PC on the Sammy using those up/down/left/right buttons that were mentioned. Once the screen is centered I used the expand button to fill the PC screen on the Sammy. As long as it works it doesn't matter how you do it, but when I expanded before centering the PC, the edge of the PC screen got cut off.

But note that every time you do this your user menu settings will revert back to the factory default settings. Not a big deal if you haven't changed them, but a bit of a pain if you have.

They go back to the settings that were input from the calibration, which is what you want. Those calibration settings become the default. The only thing I need to change is DNIe and the NR if I have a noisy program.
The picture settings stay on standard, and when HD-DVD/Blu-Ray comes out you would switch to movie mode for that since those have the correct settings for for that material. I really need to write down what Eliab said about those settings since I think there is something else but can't remember it exactly.

minime9us,

I'd be more than happy to use my frequent flyer miles to get to Alaska if there were a few more jobs waiting for me there...:rolleyes:

There are numerous areas on these Samsung displays that need further adjusting in order to produce a reference-level picture. When approached using the correct procedures and instrumentation, an appreciably improved picture will be achieved.

Clarity can be thought of as simply image crispness (resolution/focus) and/or signal integrity (unaltered source material). That said, a properly performed calibration of your 6168 will score on both counts as a ring focus adjustment can affect your perceived level of resolution and proper grayscale and SMPTE color coordinates will allow material to be viewed in the shades and colors that their director's intended thus producing a picture that's a "clearer" representation of the original source.

I make it a rule to not underestimate a person's ability to see or not see something that I can or can't. :) What I can say is that in each and every case where I calibrated someone's Samsung DLP, they were able to appreciate a difference albeit some more than others. For many, it's also important knowing that every ounce of performance is being squeezed out of their display even if the difference isn't night and day. Personally, I have difficulty enjoying a movie if I think that something can be setup more accurately on my TV... :D

I hope that this helps clarify things a little.

Regards,

Eliab


Thanks Elab for the above info.
I'm hoping that I can find some more Samsung owners here in the greater Houston, TX area to justify a future visit from you.

If Anyone one here is from the Houston area please pipe up and get on the bandwagon.

Now, a queston. What exactly is "ring focus" is it a SM or mechanical adjustment? I've always been a stickler for correct focus in any optical device. If mechanical, I can see where it might need adjustment after shipping etc.

Also, I went into the SM and messed around with the gamma setting. reducing it from 2 to 0 but it didn't fix the dark saturated black areas, so I put it back to 2 and left it there. Also, I noticed that the first line in the SM said "MODE:error" . What's with that?

thanks,

They go back to the settings that were input from the calibration, which is what you want. Those calibration settings become the default. The only thing I need to change is DNIe and the NR if I have a noisy program.


I'm pretty sure that this is actually not correct. Only the SM (and not the user menu) changes become the default settings. Any time you enter and exit the SM, all of the user menu (but not SM) settings go back to the factory default settings. For example, if you are using Standard/Warm 1, the factory default brightness setting is 50. If in connection with calibrating your TV that setting has been changed to a different number, the new setting will hold as long as you don't thereafter enter the SM. If you do enter the SM, that brightness setting in the user menu will revert back to 50. The same will be true for all other changes you had made to the user menu and for all inputs, not just the input you were on when you entered the SM. Of course, this is irrelevant if you you are using the user menu factory defaults and haven't made any changes to the user menu.

The settings the calibrator makes in the SM become the default settings. In standard mode one item is on 80 and the rest are on 50. Everytime you come out of the SM this is what it defaults too and the settings that have been made to correct grayscale and color will be correct if those standard mode settings are not touched.
Now I can go into the service menu and change the default brightness and contrast if i wanted too. This will become the default for that specific input.(default still being one setting at 80 and the rest at 50. I'm not at home now so I don't remember what the setting is that is listed at 80) I will actually need to do that for a component input since I decided to get the Xbox360 next week and will use the component input for that.

RMSko, I think that is what he said or meant at least. Default might be the wrong word to use but it is the same. Your new calibration settings will become the new settings or "default" values and not the factory default values in the SM. I don't think he was referring to the UM, only the SM.

He then would only need to change the DNEi since that changes back when you power off. I think the NR is remembered though so I don't think that has to be changed manually.

What is the big deal on the 360? I'd rather use my PC and or wait for the HD-DVD system and keep the system I have. I don't have a system so I use my PC on occaision.

Welp, I finally pulled the trigger on the HL-R6178W! Bought it from Tweeter's "Private sale" on Friday here in Southern CA. It's price was $3999 ($500 off retail). Plus the salesman gave me 20% off all access's including a stand AND the 4 year warranty(with bulb replacement) for $499 instead of $599.

I had never purchased anything from Tweeter before but they really stepped up to the plate with the discountings and delivering it the next day(Sat). They set up the stand and the hooked up the HL-R6178W.

Very happy with it's DVD playing! Friday DirectTV will deliver and hook up the HR10-250 (HD Tivo) and a new dish. I recently purchased a TERK HD Dish with 3LNBs and wont be needing and cannot take it back. So if anyone needs one, let me know.(Paid $50 for it new in the box)

Anyhow...I have a few questions

Are there any specific settings I should know about getting optimum performance on this HL-R6178W/HR10-250 combo? I am not new the the DVR world as we had Ultimate TV for years now that I hacked into and upgraded the hard drive to a much larger one. I did notice that the HL-R6178W looks like crap (due to interpolation)on a NON-HD regular directTV signal.

Will an HD upconverting DVD play in widewcreen format filling the entire screen? My current DVD shows in 16:9 but bars on the top/bottom(480i)

What else do I need to know?

Any suggestions that you may have I am ready for! ;) THanks again for all the info that maybe forthcoming

RMSko, I think that is what he said or meant at least. Default might be the wrong word to use but it is the same. Your new calibration settings will become the new settings or "default" values and not the factory default values in the SM. I don't think he was referring to the UM, only the SM.

He then would only need to change the DNEi since that changes back when you power off. I think the NR is remembered though so I don't think that has to be changed manually.

In the Service Menu the NR will show on but I won't see any results from it until I cycle it off then back on again. The DNIe is the same way when turning it off. It will show it as on and when you turn it to off it doesn't do anything until you cycle it back on. Then when you cycle it to off again it will actually be off.

I am also trying to use my 6168 as the monitor for my laptop. I have an IBM T42p with ATI Fire GL2 graphics card (128MB of memory). I got a "cheap" 25' VGA cable from monoprice and upgraded the driver for my graphics card. The settings on my laptop do give me the option of picking 1920x1080 resolution but even when I do this the picture doesn't fill the entire screen on the TV.

What am I missing? I noticed that one pin is missing on each of the male VGA connectors - is this the problem?

Also - is this all I need to be able to play DVDs from my laptop at 1080p resolution or do I need some other specialized graphics hardware and/or DVD software?

Thanks a bunch!

Sounds like your question has been answered if you press the info button on the remote and it says 1920x1080@60Hz then you have 1080p coming into the set you just have to resize the screen to make it fill your screen.

Sounds like your question has been answered if you press the info button on the remote and it says 1920x1080@60Hz then you have 1080p coming into the set you just have to resize the screen to make it fill your screen.

Thanks minime9us and jkaiser. My TV shows 1600x1200 @ 60 Hz. Can either of you confirm that the VGA cable you are using has all the pins on the connectors. As I said before, mine doesn't have one pin on each side.

my vga cable has 15 pins on each end. I got it from radio shack. Its the radio shack brand.

I am using the tv remote and want to test out turning off DNIE to see what it looks like. How do i turn off the DNIE and have it stay being that i have to turn the tv off to get out of the service menu?

my vga cable has 15 pins on each end. I got it from radio shack. Its the radio shack brand.

I have 14. :(

I guess its not enough to say "cheap VGA cable"..... Mine is cheap given that I paid only $13 for 25' - perhaps its too cheap! Anyway - I will get a 15 pin cable from Radio Shack and give it a try.

Thanks.

I am using the tv remote and want to test out turning off DNIE to see what it looks like. How do i turn off the DNIE and have it stay being that i have to turn the tv off to get out of the service menu?


I had a learning remote programmed during my calibration. I think someone posted remote codes that will accomplish this.

I am using the tv remote and want to test out turning off DNIE to see what it looks like. How do i turn off the DNIE and have it stay being that i have to turn the tv off to get out of the service menu?

You will need a remote that you can program the SM code into.Like a pronto,I think maybe a Harmony not sure with that 1.Both are popular.

I had a learning remote programmed during my calibration. I think someone posted remote codes that will accomplish this.

SM
0000 006D 0000 0022 00AB 00AB 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0715

this is wierd..my tv is accepting 1920x1200 over vga hahahah could this damage the tv??

gaston

I don't know if it will damage the Sammy or the PC but I think there is a list in the manual of acceptable resolutions. I think it is important to be at 60hz though.

1920x1200 is one of the resolutions listed. The PC gets this list from the TV so I assume it is alright, but isn't 1920x1080P the best since the TV won't have to scale anything?
I just spent the last hour playing the Call of Duty 2 Demo at 1920x1080P. I didn't notice any lag during that time. I wonder if I'll have any problems with the Xbox360 on the component input?

As we know, after turning off DNIe in the service menu, it comes back on once the TV is power cycled (even though the SM still says it is off).

I think I may have found an indirect way to keep DNIe off, but I'd like for somebody else to try it and see how it works out.

From the SM, in the DNIe menu: There's a whole screenfull of DNIe settings -- some numeric, some boolean on/off toggles, and the DNIe on/off. I went to every on/off setting, and switched them all off. I have verified that these settings remain after the TV is turned off.

I am not patient enough to go and figure out what impact each of these on/off toggles does, nor am I sure I can tell. I don't know enough to guess what they mean.

With these values turned off, when I run the DNIe demo from the remote, both left and right look the same to my eye.

I don't think I have a very discriminating eye, but perhaps somebody else wants to give this a shot and see how it works for them.

I'm not sure all those settings should be off. We need to find out what each one does. I'm not messing with any of those things in my service menu unless I know what each one does. It's not a big deal for me to turn off DNIe when I turn the set on, it only takes a few seconds, and I still need to set up a macro to do this so I would only need to press one button on the remote.

Turning off SNI_PROC_DEP and SNI_PROC_BWS have helped most for me while still letting DNIe clean-up the SD signal.

SNI_PROC_DEP looks to enable/disable the edge-sharpening (unsharp mask?) that DNIe runs.

When SNI_PROC_BWS is on, it looks to contribute much to loss the of shadow detail (especially when I watch Law & Order on TNT HD).

The DNIe Demo is just that, a simulated demo. There is an overlay to simulate what the picture would look like without DNIe. I don't think you can compare the picture with DNIe off in the SM to the DNIe Demo.

Aaronwt, 1920x1080 is the best resolution for the PC like you said since it doesn't scale. No one has reported any lag via VGA but there is lag on the other inputs.

DNIe isn't in effect for the vga input. I guess I'll find out if it will make a difference on the component input since i will turn it off. Of course I still need to try and pick up an XBOX 360 at 12:01AM on Tuesday Nov 22nd.

Eliab - I have been told that SM adjustments only need to be made in any one input and then the TV creates an algorithm that makes all the SM adjustments for each input. In fact, I thought that the SM will be the same for each input. Is that not correct and do you actually make different SM adjustments for each input?
That's not entirely true. While there are certain menus (CCA, etc.) that are global, I've found that depending on the firmware version there can be unique DNIe settings for each input or input type (digital, component, composite).

when HD-DVD/Blu-Ray comes out you would switch to movie mode for that since those have the correct settings for for that material. I really need to write down what Eliab said about those settings since I think there is something else but can't remember it exactly.
That's correct. I setup the movie mode to SMPTE HD standard coordinates.

Now, a queston. What exactly is "ring focus" is it a SM or mechanical adjustment? I've always been a stickler for correct focus in any optical device. If mechanical, I can see where it might need adjustment after shipping etc.
Ring focus is a mechanical focus adjustment that's performed through the back of your display. I've been able to improve focus on these sets by as much as 50%!

Also, I went into the SM and messed around with the gamma setting. reducing it from 2 to 0 but it didn't fix the dark saturated black areas, so I put it back to 2 and left it there.
Gamma won't fix your crushed blacks. Removing DNIe will.

Eliab

Has anyone found an electronic/digital copy of the HLRxx68W service manual?

I have a hl-r5688w and sometimes when watching Rome on HBOHD or other "filmed" material over cable box, I see some flickering white boxes in very dark scenes which move around a little, then go away. They are not stuck mirrors as they move rapidly and go away. What causes this? Can it be fixed. It seems to only happen on a few stations and never on live broadcast.

I have a hl-r5688w and sometimes when watching Rome on HBOHD or other "filmed" material over cable box, I see some flickering white boxes in very dark scenes which move around a little, then go away.

As somebody who as a stuck mirror, that they certainly are not. But I know what you mean, because I've seen it too, primarily on HBO programming and always in very dark areas of the scene. Blocking is always white.

I'd presume it's some kind of mpeg artifact. It does not appear to be noise related.

I have a hl-r5688w and sometimes when watching Rome on HBOHD or other "filmed" material over cable box, I see some flickering white boxes in very dark scenes which move around a little, then go away. They are not stuck mirrors as they move rapidly and go away. What causes this? Can it be fixed. It seems to only happen on a few stations and never on live broadcast.

It is only the source feed.I see it once in awhile only on HD.

A Review of the TVGUIDE ONLINE web site states that this is normal operation.
They just don't support channel info for all channels everywhere.
If you see the channel in the SAMSUNG list of channels (your TV scanned and found the broadcast), then this is all you can do.
IN my area, they don't support schedules for channels such as INHD2, TNTHD, and a few others.
For those, I have to use the guide in the cable box.
I think you can post a question to TVGUIDE ONLINE support if you want to register a vote for adding those channels to the TV guide grid.

Two remarks:

1. The channel in question, 10-2 PBS SD, shows up when I press "Channel List" on the remote. It seems that the TV sees it, but TV Guide Channel Editor doesn't.

2. I understand TV Guide does not include all channels. I thought it may apply to some obscure or less-viewed channels. I wouldn't have thought that PBS SD belongs to that category. Unlike other network channels, PBS SD is the standard primary PBS broadcast, PBS HD has different programming most of the time.

minime9us,

I'd be more than happy to use my frequent flyer miles to get to Alaska if there were a few more jobs waiting for me there...:rolleyes:

There are numerous areas on these Samsung displays that need further adjusting in order to produce a reference-level picture. When approached using the correct procedures and instrumentation, an appreciably improved picture will be achieved.

Clarity can be thought of as simply image crispness (resolution/focus) and/or signal integrity (unaltered source material). That said, a properly performed calibration of your 6168 will score on both counts as a ring focus adjustment can affect your perceived level of resolution and proper grayscale and SMPTE color coordinates will allow material to be viewed in the shades and colors that their director's intended thus producing a picture that's a "clearer" representation of the original source.

I make it a rule to not underestimate a person's ability to see or not see something that I can or can't. :) What I can say is that in each and every case where I calibrated someone's Samsung DLP, they were able to appreciate a difference albeit some more than others. For many, it's also important knowing that every ounce of performance is being squeezed out of their display even if the difference isn't night and day. Personally, I have difficulty enjoying a movie if I think that something can be setup more accurately on my TV... :D

I hope that this helps clarify things a little.

Regards,

Eliab

Please let me know if you're ever in Portland, Oregon. Thanks.

SM
0000 006D 0000 0022 00AB 00AB 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0715

Is there any way I can program it into a learning remote that cannot accept SM codes? I have a Marantz RC 2000MKII.

Has anyone found an electronic/digital copy of the HLRxx68W service manual?

http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/UM/200507/20050704183212125_BP68-00520A-00Eng_book.pdf

http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/UM/200507/20050704183212125_BP68-00520A-00Eng_book.pdf

That's the owners manual, not the service manual. Unfortunately, the service manual is an extra cost item.

Dear Customer,

Please refer to below part information that you have requested. If you would like to place an order, visit http://www.samsungparts.com And enter the below part number in the upper right hand side Search bar. Or please call 1-800-627-4368 to order.


Sincerely,
J&J International
Authorized Samsung Electronics Distributor
800-627-4368

*Shipping charges are subject to changed without notice. Oversized items and some destinations may be subject to additional charges.


Part Number: SM-HLR6168W
Description: SERVICE MANUAL
Specification: HLR6168W
Unit Price: $22.00
Plus shipping and handling.

Does anyone know how to get the TV Guide (which I use with the Cable Card) to list the channels numerically instead of alpha?

Is there any way I can program it into a learning remote that cannot accept SM codes? I have a Marantz RC 2000MKII.

I read the manual to your device and cant see it being done.Here is a site you could ask your question,start a thread.
http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/mboard/forums.cgi
The only way I see if someone had the code in their remote and you clone,(as they put it pionting 1 remote to the other) to yours.

Anyone use the EQ on the Sammy? I'm interested in using it but I don't know what it is currently set at and if it is possible to return it to the default or change it back manually? In other words I don't want to reset the whole set, just the EQ. I hope that makes sense and is possible.