Anyone know if the 6168 has macroblocking issues with the Oppo 971H, Panasonic S97 or Denon 1920?

OPPO, yes - but, generally slight; S97, yes - but, generally slight; 1920 - probably, but not tested.

If you want to avoid macroblocking, try Sony NS975V, Sony NS3100ES, Pioneer 59avi, Pioneer 79avi.

hello guys.i finally got the 1080p via vga to work perfectly...anyways..now i got another question..when i run games like call of duty 2 and serious sam 2...i can't set the game to run resolutiones higher then 1028x720..looks like its limited....videos are fine..they all play at 1080p....its just happening with games...any thoughts?

gaston

I have no problem at 1920x1080P or 1920x1200P.
Can your videocard handle the games at that resolution?

Hey guys...I just ordered the 61" model that Magnolia sells. I just returned my 3rd SXRD. I am worried about video and audio lag. Samsung says that if you hook up an XBOX with component cables and set it to game mode you won't have a problem....is this true? Also my receiver (Pioneer 1015tx) does not have an audio delay....does EVERY person have audio delay? I saw a set a Circuit City hooked up to surround sound and barely any delay all....you had to really look hard so see any difference....please I need info from you guys!

Hey guys...I just ordered the 61" model that Magnolia sells. I just returned my 3rd SXRD. I am worried about video and audio lag. Samsung says that if you hook up an XBOX with component cables and set it to game mode you won't have a problem....is this true? Also my receiver (Pioneer 1015tx) does not have an audio delay....does EVERY person have audio delay? I saw a set a Circuit City hooked up to surround sound and barely any delay all....you had to really look hard so see any difference....please I need info from you guys!

Chances are good that you will see video delays and need to delay the audio by about 110 ms to 120 ms.

Order this product: http://www.felston.com/dd540/index.htm

You will notice delays on games ... action games will be most noticable. Games that do not require split second responses will be playable. Using 480i game mode and setting the input to GAME will help minimize delays.

This is my inaugural post, I believe. I have been a long-time reader of the forums, and I appreciate everyone who contributes...

I just purchased the 71" (it's on the truck, headed here), and was about to purchase the optional TV stand, but noticed that it said I need to purchase the optional railing for it to work with the 71". One Call, my seller, didn't carry the railing, so I called Samsung and found out that the railing is NOT sold anywhere, for some reason. Can anyone recommend a website or some specific pieces of AV furniture that'll accomodate the 71"?

Any info would be much appreciated...

You might Google the model number to find someone who sells the stand with the bar? I think all stands are based on weight. I found a great deal on my stand at Mag. I was surprised.

Anybody have their set turn itself off? My 6178 did this last night while I was entering the PIP screen size menu. Just turned off. I turned it back on, went back into the menu, and it turned off again. Wouldn't turn back on with either the remote or the front power button.

I unplugged it for a few minutes and was back to normal after that. The same menu actions all worked normally. I think my teevee crashed and needed a reboot. :(

Anybody have their set turn itself off? My 6178 did this last night while I was entering the PIP screen size menu. Just turned off. I turned it back on, went back into the menu, and it turned off again. Wouldn't turn back on with either the remote or the front power button.

I unplugged it for a few minutes and was back to normal after that. The same menu actions all worked normally. I think my teevee crashed and needed a reboot. :(

I've had my 6768 for a month. I am more than pleased with it's stunning picture. However, lately it seems that something is going wrong. After being off overnight when turned on, the screen will remain dark or a frozen image will appear. Also, at times only the bottom half of the screen will have a picture. After a few minutes it flickers a bit and the picture comes on and all is normal. I don't think it's the lamp since I see it's light reflected off the back wall. Any ideas?

I've had my 6768 for a month. I am more than pleased with it's stunning picture. However, lately it seems that something is going wrong. After being off overnight when turned on, the screen will remain dark or a frozen image will appear. Also, at times only the bottom half of the screen will have a picture. After a few minutes it flickers a bit and the picture comes on and all is normal. I don't think it's the lamp since I see it's light reflected off the back wall. Any ideas?
What is your primary source? One thing you should do when this happens is switch inputs and see if the same thing happens with a different input. If it doesn't, it's likely to be the source and not the TV. If it does, it's probably the TV. Another test would be to switch to another source (perhaps a DVD) before shutting it off overnight. Then, power the TV off, but do not turn off the DVD. Then, when you power the set back on the next morning it will be on the input that the DVD is on. If the problem occurs even with that input, it's probably the TV. If it doesn't, it may be the other source.

Guys,
I apologize if this has been covered previously in this thread. I've read quite a bit of it, searched it, and haven't seen the answer to my question.

Can anyone point me to some information about how to calibrate this thing? I basically want two things:

1) Stuff to do in the service menu, like turning off sharpness, noise filter, etc. Just stuff that you guys are doing to improve picture quality. What picture mode to use etc. This information *is* scattered throughout this thread but I was wondering if anyone has compiled it into one resource.

2) Color calibration. I have the Colorfacts software with the Eye One sensor that I have been using to adjust my CRT projector. Adjusting G2 and drive for each color to achieve 6500 over a range of IRE is a piece of cake on a CRT. How the heck do I do it for the Samsung DLP (I have the 7178).

Any pointers would be appreciated. Thanks.

Cary

PS. Is there a service manual avaliable yet for the 7178?

I got my 6168 about 2 months ago with the powerbuy and was wondering if anybody has the same bad picture problems I am having.
I have a Direct Tv receiver (Zenith 520) hooked up via the hdmi input and with sporting events or daytime scenes on the Discovery channel in Hi-Def the picture is outstanding, but when there are night time or dark scenes the picture just plain sucks.
The shadows and parts of the faces have a mottled look to them, like a solorized photo and the background has a gray snowy look to it.
Is this what is to be expected or do I have a problem with the set?

Hey guys...I just ordered the 61" model that Magnolia sells. I just returned my 3rd SXRD. I am worried about video and audio lag. Samsung says that if you hook up an XBOX with component cables and set it to game mode you won't have a problem....is this true? Also my receiver (Pioneer 1015tx) does not have an audio delay....does EVERY person have audio delay? I saw a set a Circuit City hooked up to surround sound and barely any delay all....you had to really look hard so see any difference....please I need info from you guys!
My delay seems to differ by source and also content. My older Sony DVD player through 480i component has less than a .1 of second delay and is not noticeable when watching movies. Another player (Samsung HD950 via HDMI) has dismal delay. From .1 of a second to more than 2 or 3 at times on some content.

My Sony playstation connected via Component seems to have very little delay, even not set on game mode. Certainly less than 1 second and when using both the TV speakers and surround system, there is just the tiniest bit of echo.

What does all this mean? There probably is some delay to these sets but it is highly variable and dependant on source and content. You probably need to find some way to test before purchase.

I got my 6168 about 2 months ago with the powerbuy and was wondering if anybody has the same bad picture problems I am having.
I have a Direct Tv receiver (Zenith 520) hooked up via the hdmi input and with sporting events or daytime scenes on the Discovery channel in Hi-Def the picture is outstanding, but when there are night time or dark scenes the picture just plain sucks.
The shadows and parts of the faces have a mottled look to them, like a solorized photo and the background has a gray snowy look to it.
Is this what is to be expected or do I have a problem with the set?
Have you tried it in MOVIE mode? It usually helps in these regards.

Movie mode makes no difference.
Does anyone else have this problem or is my set defective?

I got my 6168 about 2 months ago with the powerbuy and was wondering if anybody has the same bad picture problems I am having.
I have a Direct Tv receiver (Zenith 520) hooked up via the hdmi input and with sporting events or daytime scenes on the Discovery channel in Hi-Def the picture is outstanding, but when there are night time or dark scenes the picture just plain sucks.
The shadows and parts of the faces have a mottled look to them, like a solorized photo and the background has a gray snowy look to it.
Is this what is to be expected or do I have a problem with the set?

Have you tried this tweak? Very helpful for giving black areas more detail. helpshttp://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6542081&&#post6542081

Also adjusting subbrightness and subcontrast using something like grayscale in HDNet test patterns which are usually broadcast Tuesday mornings 5 a.m Central.

Have you tried this tweak? Very helpful for giving black areas more detail. helpshttp://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6542081&&#post6542081

Also adjusting subbrightness and subcontrast using something like grayscale in HDNet test patterns which are usually broadcast Tuesday mornings 5 a.m Central.

Oops! disregard "helps" in the link.

What setting do you have it set to when you see the problem? I had the same type of picture on dark things until I set it to Movie as the previous poster suggested. Can you look at the settings when you switch to Movie and tell us what they are. Mine are Contrast 70, Brightness 45, Sharpness 25, Color 45 and Color Tone Warm 2 (greyed out), these are the defaults. The Sharpness setting is way lower than in my custom setting of 55 for day and sports. And Sharpness controls the problem you are talking about. The picture gets considerably darker when set to Movie and I can only use it at night, but its perfect for the problem you are describing. I am wondering if your TV is responding to your change of settings as you are using HDMI and there might be a problem in it not responding.

Anyone connect a PC to their set and has blurry or fuzzy text? My first 5678 had pin cushioning and this has it and the text is not sharp on the PC. I thought it was my eyes or that I usually sit to the right side of the screen but even up close the text is not sharp. Is that a focus ring issue? Most graphics on TV are clear but some of the smaller graphics like on football are fuzzy too. I would think it would be clearer on a HD channel?

Has anybody found that turning off DNIe has eliminated audio and/or video lag?

Hello,

I'm having a problem with my Samsung 6768. It frequently makes loud cracking noises. I don't think these noises are coming from the speakers. I think they are coming from somewhere else within the TV. They sound mechanical, like the sound the plastic housing would make if you twisted it in an unhappy way.

Maybe they are some kind of mechanical/thermal problem, expansion of a joint leading to slippage and a noise? They do seem more common for the first few hours of viewing but they do sometimes happen even after the TV has been on for hours. They often happen every 5 minutes or so.

I don't know what is causing them but they bug me a lot! They are quite loud, loud enough to be plainly audible even over pretty high listening volumes on my audio system. They definitely disturb my viewing of the TV.

A TV in this price range should not suffer from such a serious viewing degrading bug.

Anyone else experience these?

Any suggestions on what to do?

Thanks
-Dan

Hello,

I'm having a problem with my Samsung 6768. It frequently makes loud cracking noises. I don't think these noises are coming from the speakers. I think they are coming from somewhere else within the TV. They sound mechanical, like the sound the plastic housing would make if you twisted it in an unhappy way.

Maybe they are some kind of mechanical/thermal problem, expansion of a joint leading to slippage and a noise? They do seem more common for the first few hours of viewing but they do sometimes happen even after the TV has been on for hours. They often happen every 5 minutes or so.

I don't know what is causing them but they bug me a lot! They are quite loud, loud enough to be plainly audible even over pretty high listening volumes on my audio system. They definitely disturb my viewing of the TV.

A TV in this price range should not suffer from such a serious viewing degrading bug.

Anyone else experience these?

Any suggestions on what to do?

Thanks
-Dan

What kind of stand are you using? Perhaps the weight is improperly distributed.

OPPO, yes - but, generally slight; S97, yes - but, generally slight; 1920 - probably, but not tested.

If you want to avoid macroblocking, try Sony NS975V, Sony NS3100ES, Pioneer 59avi, Pioneer 79avi.

Thanks for the info.

So if picture quality is my primary concern, should I go with one of the Faroudja chip models and accept a little macroblocking, or should I go with the Sony/Pioneer? Is there a consensus opinion or is it just a matter of personal taste.

What kind of stand are you using? Perhaps the weight is improperly distributed.
I was thinking of going with a 55" stand, where the 6168 would overhang by an inch on both sides. Do you suspect this might cause any of the noise issues dgilley experienced?

Yeah, every time I turn it off it makes that sound, so it probably is just the cabinet cooling down. Although I wish it wouldn't make that popping noise... seems as if the tv would just shut off after the pop.

I heard the same thing all the time. I think that maybe it is the transformer, something to do with the power supply of the Unit. What does everyone think here? Or is the case expanding and shrinking of the plastic after the TV is cooled down by the heat of the TV?

Thanks for the info.

So if picture quality is my primary concern, should I go with one of the Faroudja chip models and accept a little macroblocking, or should I go with the Sony/Pioneer? Is there a consensus opinion or is it just a matter of personal taste.


I was thinking of going with a 55" stand, where the 6168 would overhang by an inch on both sides. Do you suspect this might cause any of the noise issues dgilley experienced?

This should not be a problem because the 6168 sits on a small "stand" in the center that seems to hold all the weight of the TV. If the TV sticks out on the side, it shouldn't cause any issues apart from any cosmetic concerns.

how do u upgrade the firmware on these 1080p tvs?
You cant, you will need to change the whole board out. I bet they are expensive. Why would anyone do that if it works, especailly if you paid for the calibration of your TV. Then the settings will be changed again. I heard that Samsung might be working on a way to upgrade the firmware without changing the board out? Wasn't their a meeting about that last week with Samsung? Does anyone know?
Thanks.

Anybody have their set turn itself off? My 6178 did this last night while I was entering the PIP screen size menu. Just turned off. I turned it back on, went back into the menu, and it turned off again. Wouldn't turn back on with either the remote or the front power button.

I unplugged it for a few minutes and was back to normal after that. The same menu actions all worked normally. I think my teevee crashed and needed a reboot. :(
Maybe the on button from the remote was stuck. This happened to me once and the button was stuck. Then it never happend again.

What kind of stand are you using? Perhaps the weight is improperly distributed.

The stand seems really solid and its hard for me to believe it could be the cause in my case. I'm using a Plateau stand that is about 2" wider than the full width of the 6768 TV. I removed the narrow center "foot" so the entire bottom of the TV is evenly supported. The stand itself is very strong and rock solid - it doesn't shift, sag, move, or anything.

I've been listening more closely and I'm pretty sure the sound doesn't always come from the same place. Also, its much worse during turn-on and when powered on than after turn-off. It wouldn't actually bother me all that much if it made noise during the turn-off cycle since I'm never in the room when the TV is off. If I'm in there, its always on!

If nobody else is experiencing this problem, I guess I need to call Samsung as maybe my set is having a unique issue. But I can guess what they'll say.

-Dan

Thanks for the info.

So if picture quality is my primary concern, should I go with one of the Faroudja chip models and accept a little macroblocking, or should I go with the Sony/Pioneer? Is there a consensus opinion or is it just a matter of personal taste.


I was thinking of going with a 55" stand, where the 6168 would overhang by an inch on both sides. Do you suspect this might cause any of the noise issues dgilley experienced?

I think the Faroudja chips do a really great job at a great price 99% of the time. The degree to which the 1% they don't do well bothers you is dependent on your display/DVD player fine tuning and your own ability to detect it. My opinion is that most people cannot/will not notice the macroblocking problem on a Samsung 1080p DLP. I've tried hard to see it on many sources and generally can't find any problems. Every once in awhile I see a scene with some PQ issue but often these may be due to the source material compression/decompression artifacts.

My recommendation for these Samsung 1080p's is to buy Faroudja. I tried the Oppo, the Panasonic S97, the Denon 1920, and the Denon 2910. My final choice was the 2910 due to its extra solid construction, additional configurability, and the fact that I was fairly cost unconstrained. My second choice, which I would have selected had I been $$$ limited was the 1920.

And these are my first Denon units hence I came into this with an open mind.

-Dan

I received and installed my HLR-5668W set four hours before losing
electrical power to hurricane Katrina. Power was restored 6 days later,
but cable was out for another week. Sure was great to have over the air
HDTV. What an increible picture. The whole scenario was repeated a
few weeks later with hurricane Wilma. A cheap Radioshack antenna
purchased for SD TV works well for HDTV. A coax extension lets me put
the antenna in the window across the room from the TV. SD TV from
analog cable has very good PQ on this set, but OTA HDTV from the 12 or
so Miami stations blows away everyone who sees the picture.

Thanks to the devoted forum members for all of the past info, and
thanks to TV Authority.

People might be interested in getting OTA HD if available in their area. What R/S or other brand antenna did you get and do you have a part # or model #? Thanks.

Can anybody answer this for me.....does turning DNIe off help with audio and/or video lag?

This should not be a problem because the 6168 sits on a small "stand" in the center that seems to hold all the weight of the TV. If the TV sticks out on the side, it shouldn't cause any issues apart from any cosmetic concerns.
That bit of info is helpful, thanks.

Also thanks to Dan for his input.

Ok the day is here! Let's hear it!!! Xbox 360 and 1080p Samsung? Lag issues? How does it look? Apparently the VGA connector for the Xbox 360 does output 720p and 1080i according to gamespot... someone needs to get one of these and try it on our TV's!

Couldn't get one this morning, although I've already bought several games, who knows when I'll be able to get a system to play them on.

My X360 is in route but I don't have the VGA cable yet. I'm stopping by Best Buy to see if they have any in stock. I hear all the accessories are wiped clean from stores.

I should have preordered but only decided in the last few weeks that I wanted to get one. Boy was that one Big mistake. And this is the perfect week to break in the system. I guess I'll just have to settle for some glorious HD on the Samsung.

Hmm Amazon just had a several bundles show up as available. I put the cheaper one in my cart but before I could check out they sold out, So I had to put in one of the Player pro bundles that gives you more ggames than I'll really need. But it only cost me $14 for overnight, but I just realized they charged me tax which sucks. So hopefully if this goes through I'll receive it tomorrow, I'll just have to sell the games I don't need.

Picked up my XBOX 360 at midnight and I have not noticed an issue with lag. I do have the component input on GAME and have not tried it without it. It does look damn good though. Been playing NFS: Most Wanted and still have to try COD2.

So far, so good and I was worried because I did not like how my PS2 acted on the same input.

Will update as I play more. I will also turn game off and see what happens.

This is on a HL-R6178W.

E

What resolution are you using 720P or 1080i?

Picked up my XBOX 360 at midnight and I have not noticed an issue with lag. I do have the component input on GAME and have not tried it without it. It does look damn good though. Been playing NFS: Most Wanted and still have to try COD2.

So far, so good and I was worried because I did not like how my PS2 acted on the same input.

Will update as I play more. I will also turn game off and see what happens.

This is on a HL-R6178W.

E

I think you will notice lag more on first person shooters.
In the games that I tried, I didn't notice the lag with my current gen games, or at least what I percieve lag to be (the screen slowing down).

On Tony Hawk, I noticed that Reverts (a move you must pull off the second you land on the ground) were a little harder to pull off. But it could be that I am out of practice.

Hopefully I get my X360 before turkey day.

What resolution are you using 720P or 1080i?

1080i

I think you will notice lag more on first person shooters.

I will put in COD2 real quick and check it out.

E

So far I am not seeing any problems with COD2, other than the fact that I suck at the controls.

This is a really cool machine. Load times are very quick, especially if you are used to GTA on the PS2.

E

So far I am not seeing any problems with COD2, other than the fact that I suck at the controls.

I tried that at a demo machine at walmart, absolutely impossible to play with that controller. But it sure looked pretty (at least the sky and the ground since those were the 2 places I was looking the most since I couldn't coordinate looking straight ahead).

Is anybody using the VGA cable for high def? Will it support 1080i? Does it allow you to hook up an optical cable for sound? Need more info from gamers on lag issues? Also, does VGA allow the picture to look as good as Component?

Is anybody using the VGA cable for high def? Will it support 1080i? Does it allow you to hook up an optical cable for sound? Need more info from gamers on lag issues? Also, does VGA allow the picture to look as good as Component?

Just going on articles I recently read...

1080i support - Yes
Optical Cable - Yes (I think it has the same optical output as the component cable)
According to IGN cable report, the VGA and component look identical.

People might be interested in getting OTA HD if available in their area. What R/S or other brand antenna did you get and do you have a part # or model #? Thanks.

An antenna that worked well for me was a RadioShack cat# 15-1838. I just happened to have it
on hand to try - and it worked well. I did not evaluate it against other models/brands.

Just going on articles I recently read...

1080i support - Yes
Optical Cable - Yes (I think it has the same optical output as the component cable)
According to IGN cable report, the VGA and component look identical.

Well, I saw the actual VGA cable in its package at lunch today.

It didn't say anything about 1080i (720p is mentioned) or optical output.

I'm assuming the optical output is in the part that connects to the X360 (which was not visible).

I wasn't going to drop $40 on the cable unless I was sure.

Here is some I found.Dont know if they work cause I have Satelite
Device Code: 7 Function: 123 cable
0000 006D 0000 0022 00AC 00AC 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0689
Device Code: 7 Function: 27 "Antenna"
0000 006D 0000 0022 00AC 00AC 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0040 0015 0689


Matt, thanks for your help. Unfortunately these don't seem to work. Anyone else have any ideas for the CABLE or AIR or TV discretes for Pronto? UCSB?

Are any gamers here playing the 360 on this set???????? Please give us feedback. Did you use VGA or Component? Any lag on either input?

Are any gamers here playing the 360 on this set???????? Please give us feedback. Did you use VGA or Component? Any lag on either input?

See my posts above. I started posting about it this morning. I don't have the VGA cable though, just the component.

E

I got my 6168 about 2 months ago with the powerbuy and was wondering if anybody has the same bad picture problems I am having.
I have a Direct Tv receiver (Zenith 520) hooked up via the hdmi input and with sporting events or daytime scenes on the Discovery channel in Hi-Def the picture is outstanding, but when there are night time or dark scenes the picture just plain sucks.
The shadows and parts of the faces have a mottled look to them, like a solorized photo and the background has a gray snowy look to it.
Is this what is to be expected or do I have a problem with the set?

I've had my 6168 since September, and I have not seen the problems you described. I have Comcast cable connected directly to the TV, and I am using the built-in TV tuner to watch HD programming. Even on HD shows with a lot of very dark scenes (e.g., Lost), there is none of the solarization or gray snowy look to the background. This is definitely not to be expected with this set.

What happens when you watch a DVD movie with a lot of dark scenes using that HDMI input? Do you see the same problems? Also, if you can receive HD OTA programming, it would be useful to connect an antenna and check what kind of picture you get with the built-in ATSC tuner.

See my posts above. I started posting about it this morning. I don't have the VGA cable though, just the component.

E
Did you notice any lag on COD2? I got the 360 today but my 6168 does not come until Monday.

That sounds backwards.

Did you notice any lag on COD2? I got the 360 today but my 6168 does not come until Monday.

I did not notice any lag on COD2. I am not used to an FPS with a joystick though. I usually play them on my PC, so this is new to me. I usually do racing games on my consoles. I have played NFS: Most Wanted a good bit though and have seen no problems.

When my PS2 was on the 6178, I did not like it and moved it back to the TV in my office. I really enjoy the 360 on the 6178 though.

E

I did not notice any lag on COD2. I am not used to an FPS with a joystick though. I usually play them on my PC, so this is new to me. I usually do racing games on my consoles. I have played NFS: Most Wanted a good bit though and have seen no problems.

When my PS2 was on the 6178, I did not like it and moved it back to the TV in my office. I really enjoy the 360 on the 6178 though.

E
Do you have "game mode" turned on? What about DNIe?

Does game moded not limit you to 480i?

How do you turn off DNIe on these sets?

I have not read anything that said game mode limits it to 480i. I found this about it:

Gaming Illustrated: People have complained (last year specifically) that DLP sets had a lag when it came to gaming. Does this issue exist with the new units recently released?

Dan Schinasi: Samsung’s current 1080p models incorporate "GAME MODE" which minimizes lag time by 30 percent. This feature will be common on most 2006 models.

Also, I think we have determined you cannot turn DNIE off on the sets. This debate has raged for quite sometime on this forum.

FWIW - the 360 looks a ton better than my PS2 on the same input with the same settings. I don't believe it is at 480i with the game mode on.

E

Game mode processes the signal at 720p so that it has less scaling to do. (assuming it is receiving a 480i or 480p signal). Game mode assumes that you are not receiving a 1080i signal. I am willing to bet if you set your 360 to 1080i output and do not turn on game mode it will best the best scenario.

guys...i just finally hooked up the 360 to the 6168 with VGA...i played PDZ, and call of duty with NO lag at all! seriously... simply unbeleivable! i was so nervous that i would be let down, but i wasn't COD was so fast paced, and i was right on target. now i have the perfect display!

Thank you for this report. We've known pretty much from watching HTPC-based DVD movies that VGA input on Samsung has no lag (no lip sync issues). Most likely, this is caused by very minimal internal video processing that takes place for VGA input. It's good to know that Xbox 360 works so well with Samsung.

guys...i just finally hooked up the 360 to the 6168 with VGA...i played PDZ, and call of duty with NO lag at all! seriously... simply unbeleivable! i was so nervous that i would be let down, but i wasn't COD was so fast paced, and i was right on target. now i have the perfect display!
What resolution were you running at? 720p, 1080i?

1080i... i idn't try 720p but i probably will tomorrow just for the heck of it

Game mode processes the signal at 720p so that it has less scaling to do. (assuming it is receiving a 480i or 480p signal). Game mode assumes that you are not receiving a 1080i signal. I am willing to bet if you set your 360 to 1080i output and do not turn on game mode it will best the best scenario.

Game mode only works on AV1-3, S-video 1-3, component1 & 2. With component input, game mode only supports a resolution of 480i. Samsung manual page 108.

I have a sammy 6178 and have the VGA cables. The picture looks good! The only problem I have is that I cannot get it to be widescreen, only letterbox, and I do have the display set for widescreen mode on my 360. No LAG whats so ever!

i just recently purchased a HL-R7178W and would like to know if there's a way to calibrate the unit? Is it possible to calibrate using a computer with some software?

thanks in advance for your reply and suggestions.

Most of us are using these two DVD's: 1) AVIA; 2) Digital Video Essentials. But, here is a new product that looks promising: http://www.colorvision.com/profis/profis_view.jsp?id=402.

I AM SO MAD! I have a 6168w (bought last week), got the 360 at 12:07am on tuesday... got it home to play PDZ, got her all hooked up - and the set has horrid delay!!! I can barely play PDz because of this... I tried everything to get it to go away short of buying VGA cables. Nothing else has lag like that on my set, except for sometimes my Oppo DVI DVD player... Otherwise, I have PS2, Xbox, Gamecube, Sat dish, and PC hooked up with NO lag... Now I get this awesome 360, and it hurts to play it because of this. The graphics are AMAZING, but i cant get over this lag. Its not just me either, my friends were shocked at how bad it is too. If I had to guess I'd say its between 80 - 120ms. Any idea's?

I have my 360 connected via component cables by the way.... forgot to mention that, lol

What resolution are you using? 720P or 1080i?

I AM SO MAD! I have a 6168w (bought last week), got the 360 at 12:07am on tuesday... got it home to play PDZ, got her all hooked up - and the set has horrid delay!!! I can barely play PDz because of this... I tried everything to get it to go away short of buying VGA cables. Nothing else has lag like that on my set, except for sometimes my Oppo DVI DVD player... Otherwise, I have PS2, Xbox, Gamecube, Sat dish, and PC hooked up with NO lag... Now I get this awesome 360, and it hurts to play it because of this. The graphics are AMAZING, but i cant get over this lag. Its not just me either, my friends were shocked at how bad it is too. If I had to guess I'd say its between 80 - 120ms. Any idea's?
Try the VGA cable option.

I haven't spent enough time to conclusively say what's going on, but Perfect Dark Zero definetly feels "sluggish" on mu 5078. Nowhere near as bad as I felt with the FPS games on the Xbox1, but still slightly lagged. But I also have Call of Duty 2, and notice virtually no lag at all in that game. I also don't feel any lag in PGR3 or Kameo. I think PDO is "sluggish" in general (lower framerate, mushier control response), and that makes the lag much more apparently. I plan on testing the 360 out on my 2405 LCD monitor sometime this weekend to see if PDO is naturally slower to respond than other games. I have a sneaking suspicion that the lag *is* better overall with the new system, but some games will be worse than others.

I'm ouputting at 720p, btw, and using the wireless controllers (which might also be introducing a very slight lag into the process).

By the way, if you want to completely melt your brain, stream some mp3s from your desktop to the 360 and fire up the Visualizer on one of these sets. That thing is *nuts*

Question for XBox 360 owners using VGA cable ... how does the XBox 360 integrate with Media Center 2005 PC's, in terms of displaying high resolution digital photos. Displaying photo is a critical application for me.

Question for XBox 360 owners using VGA cable ... how does the XBox 360 integrate with Media Center 2005 PC's, in terms of displaying high resolution digital photos. Displaying photo is a critical application for me.


UCSB I think this is what you are looking for.

http://www.xbox.com/en-US/support/howto/media/xbox360/howto-media-pc.htm

I think PDZ is a bit sluggish too, and it scared me at first because i thought my 6168 was lagging, but as i played it for a while i felt that it was the way the game plays, because when i fired a weapon it was instantaneous, and my tracking was good. The only part that felt sluggish to me is when the character moves. it's kind of like...you'd expect her to stop on a dime, but she doesn't. it just seems to float a little, but it didn't really take that long to get used to. I was on live with one of my buddies with an LCD, and he noticed the same effect. He has never had any kind of lag on his display so i am guessing that it is just the way the game plays. Has anyone else tried it with VGA cable set?

I still haven't received my X360 yet but some things I have read that will help tweaking...
You may want to set the X360 in 720p mode. As far as I can see, most of the games released now run natively in 720p mode.
If you run in 1080i mode, the X360 has to upconvert it and you will see slight degradation (at least that what IGN said).
Plus, 720p in game mode should mean no lag at all.

Question to those who have the VGA cable...

Is the optical output there?

I didn't think about that. I bought the VGA cable but I didn't open it yet. If there isn't an optical output on it then I'll need to return it. No point in playing without 5.1 sound. The only thing I can see without opening the package is the vga connector and the L/R stereo connectors. If it's like the component output cables the optical out will be on the connector that plugs into the 360.
I'm still waiting on the UPS delivery person. They probably won't show up until 7PM or not at all the way my luck runs with UPS.

Try the VGA cable option.

what if you can't use the VGA option since you have a PC connected via VGA?

there is an optical port on it. it is right in the base of the connector at the console. let me jus say...it sounds soooo sweet! mcuh better than the first xbox

v

I'm using...

HDMI1 - HD DVR
HDMI2 - Unpconvert DVD Player
VGA - Media Center PC
Component 1 - Xbox (soon to be Xbox360)
Component 2 - PS2 (maybe share it with Gamecube)

I actually have a Component switcher but haven't needed to use it yet.

what if you can't use the VGA option since you have a PC connected via VGA?


You'll need a vga switch which is what I'll need if I have problems with video delay on the component input.

Is there any loss of quality when using the VGA cable over Component?

The most logical approach would be using the 1394, firewire output on the DVR directly into the TV. But, you need to check in another forum ... I know people have done alot of work with firewire capture on a PC.

Thanks Bill, but how do I get the signal "out" from the tv to the pc?

I’ve had my 360 hooked up through VGA for a few days now.

These are the resolution options that show up:
640x480
848x480
1024x768
1280x720 (this is what I’m using)
1280x768
1280x1024
1360x768

I have PGR3, CoD2, PDO, Kameo and Condemned

First off the PQ isn’t as good through VGA as it is through component. The picture isn’t quite as sharp and the colors aren’t as vibrant. I’ve played with various options on the TV and tried different resolutions but I can’t get it to match. It doesn’t look bad by any means, but I prefer the PQ that component provides.

Now on to the lag issue. After going back on forth between component and VGA with various games, I’ve come to the conclusion that the controls seem smoother through VGA. It’s not a dramatic difference but I found that aiming just seemed to be a bit smoother. I can’t say it’s conclusive yet since it’s hard to differentiate between aiming issues caused by lag and just not being used to how each individual game controls. For example the aiming in Perfect Dark Zero just doesn’t feel right to me. I’ve tried adjusting the sensitivity but it never seems as smooth as it should be.

I guess I should qualify my opinions by saying that I noticed lag on the xbox, especially in FPS games but I didn’t find it all that bad. It certainly didn’t make any game unplayable. I would be curious in the opinions of some off those that found the lag to be unbearable.

CNET Has a review of the HL-R6758 at the below link. Not being able to disable DNIe seems to be a common problem in the reviews. Hopefully Samsung will fix this with a firmware update ...

http://reviews.cnet.com/Samsung_HL_R6768W/4505-6484_7-31335745.html?tag=cnetfd.sd

I’ve had my 360 hooked up through VGA for a few days now.

These are the resolution options that show up:
640x480
848x480
1024x768
1280x720 (this is what I’m using)
1280x768
1280x1024
1360x768

I have PGR3, CoD2, PDO, Kameo and Condemned

First off the PQ isn’t as good through VGA as it is through component. The picture isn’t quite as sharp and the colors aren’t as vibrant. I’ve played with various options on the TV and tried different resolutions but I can’t get it to match. It doesn’t look bad by any means, but I prefer the PQ that component provides.

Now on to the lag issue. After going back on forth between component and VGA with various games, I’ve come to the conclusion that the controls seem smoother through VGA. It’s not a dramatic difference but I found that aiming just seemed to be a bit smoother. I can’t say it’s conclusive yet since it’s hard to differentiate between aiming issues caused by lag and just not being used to how each individual game controls. For example the aiming in Perfect Dark Zero just doesn’t feel right to me. I’ve tried adjusting the sensitivity but it never seems as smooth as it should be.

I guess I should qualify my opinions by saying that I noticed lag on the xbox, especially in FPS games but I didn’t find it all that bad. It certainly didn’t make any game unplayable. I would be curious in the opinions of some off those that found the lag to be unbearable.

Well... at first i didn't feel like there was any lag on PDZ, but the more i play it the more sluggish it feels. just for the heck of it i hooked it up to my 55 mitz rptv and i am sad to say the game play is much faster, and that sluggish feeling is gone. that said, i really get none on COD2. i have been playing both VGA at 1080i so i might try 720 to see if it makes a difference though i doubt it.

Ok, here’s how the Tvauthority power buy went down for me. I needed to replace my old 61” Phillips proj. with a 70”+ hd unit, settled on the Samsung HLR7178W 71”, I found the PB on this forum and joined to get in an order. Well, knew nothing about this company but, didn’t find anything factually negative either and actually found them to be responsive when I contacted them. So I made the order, get a bunch of emails telling me exactly what is happening with the order and I get a place on line to check directly every day if I want, which was good because they weren’t supposed to charge shipping and had added $85 shipping because a also bought a TV stand with the TV. Called them, and they took it off immediately no hassle. Next I get a tracking # and it’s on it’s way! The bad news was that it showed up with a forklift hole in the screen (refused it)! I call them and ask what they can do to ship another right away and make it across country before Thanksgiving. I get an Email the next morning, that another unit is on it’s way. This, by the way, without the usual BS some companies would pull about hitting my credit card again until the shipping company paid them etc. etc. (very refreshing)! The unit showed up yesterday, had it upstairs and running last night (2 days before Thanksgiving), and IT IS AWESOME! I would recommend these guys to anyone that is a little freaked out doing this over the internet. Both issues I had where dealt with very effectively and professionally. Thank you TV Authority, you are an asset to this forum.

CNET Has a review of the HL-R6758 at the below link. Not being able to disable DNIe seems to be a common problem in the reviews. Hopefully Samsung will fix this with a firmware update ...

http://reviews.cnet.com/Samsung_HL_R6768W/4505-6484_7-31335745.html?tag=cnetfd.sd

The review is far from glowing. CNET found the same flaws that have been exposed in this forum, namely picture degradation on calibrated set when changing HDMI inputs. There is also the never ending DNIe issue.

It appears that 1080p Samsung DLP sets offer maximum performance on VGA input when using HTPC in Movie mode. DNIe issues are gone, shifting blacks are gone, edge enhancements problems are gone. TV's internal processing that is responsible for much of the picture degradation in other modes is simply gone. This probably explains why I've been so happy with my Samsung TV and why I have no intention of connecting a set top box or external DVD player to HDMI inputs.

However, many people will rightfully demand that their STBs and DVD players work properly over HDMI, and will not settle for compromised picture on such an expensive TV. It remains to be seen whether Samsung can address these problems in future firmware updates. Assuming this is possible, the updated firmware may only be useful to those purchasing new sets. To the best of my knowledge, existing users cannot update firmware on their own.

But is is possible to disable DNIe in the SM. It looks much better with it off.

I've been playing the 360 the last few hours and I haven't noticed video lag on the component input. I tried it at 1080i first then I changed it to 720P which is where I think I'll leave it at for now. I also have DNIe disabled so I would think that might be a factor with me not having noticeable video lag.

I've been playing the 360 the last few hours and I haven't noticed video lag on the component input. I tried it at 1080i first then I changed it to 720P which is where I think I'll leave it at for now. I also have DNIe disabled so I would think that might be a factor with me not having noticeable video lag.
I don't understand how you have DNIe disabled? Can you please explain?

Bigray327,
I hadn’t turned off DNIe before so I didn’t know how much improvement to expect. I could see the edge enhancement but I didn’t realize how much of an improvement it would make to turn it off. Turning off SNI_PROC_DEP had the biggest impact but turning off SNI_PROC_DCE also helped. The picture is outstanding with these items turned off.
Anyone owning one of these sets needs to try this.
Thank you for the excellent recommendation.

Who has tried this and what do you think?

Those all get turned off when DNIe is disabled along with some of the other items on that page.

Aaron,

Do you find that you are getting good performance from PDZ? There was a big difference when i played it on my CRT wide screen. My aiming is all over the place on the samsung, but right on when i played it on my CRT

CAN SOMEBODY PLEASE EXPLAIN THIS....how do you turn off DNIe? I was under the impression that this could not be turned off! Can somebody tell me how to do it?

HAPPY THANKSGIVING everyone-

So I just got my 5668 all set up with a denon receiver and HD cable box. I am noticing bad lip-sync on some channels, and not others. With every channel haveing varying degrees of sync problems, how would you use a delay system? would you have to constantly adjust it?

If this presists I am inclinded to return it for a 720p samsung or sony.

And, lastly, if i switched to a cable card, could i output a DD 5.1 optical signal?

Recently had my HL-R6168W calibrated by SethS, who happens to live near me. For anyone on the fence about calibration, just do it. It's money well spent. Seth also has some great stories to tell!

While my color settings were not horrible out of the box, when he was done the "after" picture was clearly much better. Better depth and richer colors. Seth also provides some instruction during the whole process and it's interesting to note that the window for simple onscreen settings like tint are really only 3-4 clicks wide when you have the right pattern up for adjustments. He also leaves you with his calibration DVD full of patterns he's developed. That's a wonderful bonus right there.

First movie we watched after the calibration was actually a recorded broadcast of The Matrix Reloaded, because the wife had recorded it the day before. I was stunned by the PQ considering it's an analog feed. The skin tones and textures during face closeups was fantastic. Needless to say, playing DVDs is a whole new experience.

Easily the most satisfying TV purchase I've ever made.

Here is a little guide I created using helpful member posts. This might help those interested in tweaking, yet not very knowledgable, like me. I have applied most of the fixes without any problems and believe I have a better set for it.



To embelish a bit on what Bill (UCSB) said...

CAUTION!! MAKING CHANGES IN THE SERVICE MENU CAN SERIOUSLY DEGRADE THE PERFORMANCE OF YOUR TELEVISION. THE PROCEDURES OUTLINED BELOW ARE FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY AND SHOULD ONLY BE USED IF YOU ARE EXTREMELY CAREFUL AND KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING (or have a devil-may-care attitude and can hire a professional to fix any mistakes you make. )

SERVICE MENU ACCESS

You will need a programmable remote control into which you can program Pronto codes.

Here is the Pronto code that enters and exits the Service Menu:

0000 006D 0000 0022 00AB 00AB 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0715

Program that code to a button on your remote, lets call it the SM_Access button. You will also need to have the Info button from the original Samsung Remote Control handy (or the IR code from it programmed to your new remote control)

To access the Service Menu press the Info button followed by the SM_Access button IN QUICK SUCCESSION. The TV will blink, if you are in
4:3 mode it will switch to 16:9 mode, and then a couple of seconds later the Service Menu will show up. NOTE: You need to press the SM_Access button IMMEDIATELY after pressing the Info button - a wait of just a second or two and the SM_Access button will have no effect!

To exit the Service Menu, press the SM_Access button. The Service Menu disappears and the text "Aging" appears on the screen. Press the SM_Access button again to clear the "Aging" text.

Moving around within the Service Menu is done in a similar manner to moving around the Regular Menu: the Up-Down arrows change the menu selection, the Right arrow key enters the new menu/selection and then the Left/Right arrows change the value of the selection. Exiting a selection or menu is done with the Menu button on the original Samsung Remote Control. When you are at the top level of the Service Menu you exit using the SM_Access button as outlined above.



TURNING DNIe OFF

DNIe reverts to being ON whenever the Source input is changed and whenever the TV is powered off. This is true, even though the Service Menu lists DNIe as being OFF. This means that the "old" way of exiting the Service Menu (turn power off and wait for 30 seconds) forces DNIe to an ON state, no matter what changes were made in the Service Menu. Now that we can exit the Service Menu without turning the TV off, we can turn DNIe off and watch the TV with DNIe off.

Here's the procedure:

1. Switch to the source you want to view with DNIe off.
2. In quick succession, press the Info Button followed by the SM_Access button.
3. Wait a couple of seconds for the Service Menu to appear.
4. Press the Arrow Down button once to highlight the DNIe menu selection
5. Press the Right Arrow button once to enter the DNIe menu
6. Press the Arrow Up button 4 times to select the DNIe On/Off entry (even if it says OFF it isn't! You need to toggle the setting ON and then OFF)
7. Press the Right Arrow button once to enter the DNIe selection. The menu will disappear and you will be left with the DNIe selection in the top left of the screen.
8. Press the Right Arrow button to toggle DNIe ON and OFF. As you toggle DNIe ON and OFF you can see the effect it has on your source program on the screen. I find that with DNIe off, the picture looks a little softer and has much better detail in dark areas.
9. With DNIe OFF (making sure you have toggled DNIe ON and then OFF to force the selection to be correct) press the Menu button to exit the DNIe selection. This brings you back to the DNIe Menu screen.
10. Press the Menu button again to exit the DNIe Menu and return to the top level Service Menu
11. Press the SM_Access button to exit the Service Menu
12. Press the SM_Access button again to clear the "Aging" text.


Remember that changing the Source, or switching the TV off, reverts DNIe to an ON state, so the above procedure will need to be repeated to turn DNIe OFF again.

I don't bother with the procedure if I'm watching regular TV or just channel surfing, but if I'm going to be watching an HDTV channel or a DVD I'll use it to switch DNIe off.

Hopefully that helps people. If anyone sees any errors in the above let me know and I'll fix it.





I recently purchased the Harmony 880 and although it doesn't allow you to enter Pronto codes, I do have the code for the service menu access and the discrete picture modes available. I have a Pronto Neo that is no longer used (the whole touchscreen thing has a very low WAF) so I used it to enter the code and then had the Harmony learn it. Another AVS member posted that he had the discrete codes for the picture modes for the Harmony 880 so I called Logitech tech support and had them copy the codes from his setup. If you decide to go with the Harmony 880, you can call and have them copy the commands from my setup to yours. Post 7072





Steve Martin from Smart Calibration came out today and calibrated my Samsung HL-R5668W. Nice guy, and very knowledgable. The entire experience was great, and despite being skeptical of the need for calibration in general, I'm now very happy having spent the money. The colors look a lot better, as many have described here before.

We made some very important breakthroughs today that you all should be interested to hear about. I'll do my best to explain what Steve figured out, and let him chime in if I get it wrong.

Permanently disabling edge enhancement effects
This IS possible. As we all know from a lot of discussion here, if you go into the service menu and turn DNIe off, it defaults back to on when you turn off the TV. Not very useful, and very destructive to picture quality. Steve took a lot of time and effort and figured out how to turn off the individual edge enhancement effects that the DNIe function performs. In the service menu, turning SNI_PROC_DEP and SNI_PROC_DCE to OFF disabled edge enhancement completely, and the best part is that it sticks! Neither turning off the TV (both quickly and leaving it off for a long time) or entering the service menu affect the state of these two values. Note that there are plenty of other SNI_PROC settings in there, and he experimented with turning them all off, with no visible results in picture quality, colors, blacks, whites, etc. I watched as Steve turned these settings off for all of my inputs and compared it to a test pattern showing fine black lines on a gray background, and indeed, the white edges created by Samsung's awful edge enhancement completely went away. The way I see it, this solves the problem and the online petition can be scrapped. I'm looking for others to confirm this, so please let me know your experiences.

Dynamic range problem fix
The solution mentioned earlier in this thread worked, and stuck after power cycles, etc. SNI_PROC_BWS does in fact make everything happy.

1:1 pixel mapping not really active
Not good news here. There's a service menu setting called 1080I_OVERSCAN that is set to off by default. I don't remember which sub-menu it's under, but it's hidden somewhere unintuitive. When viewing the pixel multi-burst pattern from the Accupel HDG3000 disk, it's obvious from the far right column that the Sammy wasn't mapping pixels 1:1 over any of the inputs (HDMI, component, etc). Then Steve did some experimenting with the 1080I_OVERSCAN setting: he turned it on and then back off, and guess what? 1:1 mapping started working! So, despite being off by default, it doesn't actually work unless you go in there and turn it on and back off. Weird. The bad part is that the setting doesn't stick. Turning off the TV keeps the value set to off, but the test pattern clearly shows that the set no longer exhibits 1:1 pixel mapping. Of course, going into the service menu and turning it off every time you watch TV is an option, but he couldn't find a permanent workaround. Hopefully, Samsung will fix this in a future firmware upgrade.

Service menu discrete code doesn't work
Steve brought a remote into which he had programmed the standard Samsung discrete code to enter the service menu. It was taken from a Pronto hex code found here somewhere and mapped over to an MX-500. It worked for his Sammy 720p set but not my 5668. We also tried it with my remote and it just wouldn't put my set in service mode. He speculated that Samsung changed it for the HLR models. Any insight from you all would be appreciated.

Hope this helps! Post 7139




The guy that did the calibration of my TV (Kevin Miller of ISFTV) is a consultant for Samsung and has been meeting with them this week. He raised the "dynamic range" issue with them and they have been working on it for the last day or so. He believes they have come up with a permanent fix. He said you need to go into the SM and under DNIe there is an item called "SNI_PROC_BWS". He said you need to set this to "Off" and it should fix the problem permanently. I'm at work now so I won't be able to try it until I get home, but if anyone can try this and report back, that would be great. Thanks.

BTW - Kevin did an amazing job calibrating my set. If you live in the NY area, I highly recommend him. Post 7085




Originally Posted by mzuber
You should be able to access the service menu by hitting Mute, 1, 8, 2, Power.




Originally Posted by John_Jones_CA
This didn't seem to work, it just turned my set off (Power). I have the internal mute on so when I hit mute it warns me it won't work, then when I hit 1 8 and 2 each time it says Not available does this effect getting into the menu.

I am going to stay out of other owner's threads, this info should be posted here independent of other sets.


Sorry, I should have explained the instructions better. You have to enter those commands in while the set is off. Turning the gamma to 0 is probably the only thing worth doing until some people investigate the behavior of these sets more.

Aaron,

Do you find that you are getting good performance from PDZ? There was a big difference when i played it on my CRT wide screen. My aiming is all over the place on the samsung, but right on when i played it on my CRT

My aiming is fine I just need to get used to using a controller for a game instead of a mouse and keyboard. Otherwise it seems to be fine, I can hit something as it passes it front of my scope when it turns red so if there is any lag it must be very small.

aaronwt....your pictures look amazing....I have heard great things about eliab. Can you share his contact info with me? I live in NJ and definately would like to use him. Thanks.

Anyone know how to get a recording from the HD STB DVR to the PC? I was thinking FW? Any help or info or link would be great.

Anyone know how to get a recording from the HD STB DVR to the PC? I was thinking FW? Any help or info or link would be great.
If it's from a HD TiVo, you'll need to do some hacking. Start here (http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=30&f=8). It's not very hard, if you have basic PC assembly experience. Well worth the time, especially when adding additional hacks like the web interface and on-screen caller ID. The firewire port may work, but won't give you lots of the extras that are available.

If it's not a TiVo, I can't help you.

aaronwt....your pictures look amazing....I have heard great things about eliab. Can you share his contact info with me? I live in NJ and definately would like to use him. Thanks.


Here is the link to his website!
AVICAL (www.avical.com)

HAPPY THANKSGIVING everyone-

So I just got my 5668 all set up with a denon receiver and HD cable box. I am noticing bad lip-sync on some channels, and not others. With every channel haveing varying degrees of sync problems, how would you use a delay system? would you have to constantly adjust it?

If this presists I am inclinded to return it for a 720p samsung or sony.

And, lastly, if i switched to a cable card, could i output a DD 5.1 optical signal?

It is entirely possible that some lip sync problems with set top boxes originate at the source, i.e., the signal coming to your home is already affected. With your current set-up, you can vary the following parameters to reduce lip sync problems:

1) The type of STB you have (e.g., try different STB)
2) Video signal resolution that STB sends to the TV (try different resolutions)
3) Connection type (HDMI, Component)

If the above tweaks do not work for you, then indeed you would have to use the audio delay feature of your Denon receiver to adjust audio delay on every channel separately. Over time, this approach will almost certainly lead to frustration. Please note that your situation is very uncommon, i.e., very few forum members have reported lip sync problems with HDTV programming that approach the severity you have observed with your set-up.

If you use the built-in TV tuner (with or without cable card), your lip sync issues will go away. Yes, you will be able to send 5.1 sound from your TV to the receiver but only for TV programming. If the broadcast is in 5.1, your AV receiver should be getting the correct audio signal from the digital optical audio out on the TV.

However, this audio out will not trasmit 5.1 channel sound if your source is DVD player connected to HDMI input. In this case, it will transmit only 2-channel audio.

The HL-R6178W was priced at xxxx. After taxes. II had no intentions of buying a tv today... NONE. Now im looking at Star Wars epII in HD and it looks great. Ill get to play more later :)

Well... at first i didn't feel like there was any lag on PDZ, but the more i play it the more sluggish it feels. just for the heck of it i hooked it up to my 55 mitz rptv and i am sad to say the game play is much faster, and that sluggish feeling is gone. that said, i really get none on COD2. i have been playing both VGA at 1080i so i might try 720 to see if it makes a difference though i doubt it.


I spent about an hour playing deathmatch against bots in PDZ on an old CRT I had. It seemed about the same but after I switched back to the sammy, I just wasn’t doing as well and I had to turn down the sensitivity to reproduce the success I had on the CRT.

I’m not sure what you mean by the game playing faster on your CRT. The game felt sluggish on both TV’s and I think that’s the way the game was designed. Your character moves rather slowly and it initially seems like your walking and not running. The only difference I notice was the aiming sensitivity.

I will say the lag seems better than on the xbox, but it’s not completely gone like I had hoped. It’s possible that turning DNIe off may lower the lag to an imperceptible level but I don’t know that for sure. Can anyone recommend a cheap programmable remote that will work with the SM to disable DNIe?

The HL-R6178W was priced at XXXX. After taxes. I had no intentions of buying a tv today... NONE. Now im looking at Star Wars epII in HD and it looks great. Ill get to play more later :)

Excellent Deal!!

What is strange is that the sync will change even on the same channel. I was watching Star Wars Ep 2 last night on FoxHD. The sounds was in sync. Then I changed the channel during the commerical. When I returned to Fox the sound was out of sync. So I switched away and back three or four time, until it was back in sync. Somewhat annoying.

Do we know if the sync issues are as great on the 720p sets? Also, I talked to Tier 2 support at Samsung, and they said they are aware of the problem, but since the internal speakers work fine, they don't see it as their issue. He did say that they haven't had any problems with plasma sets. Something to think about.



It is entirely possible that some lip sync problems with set top boxes originate at the source, i.e., the signal coming to your home is already affected. With your current set-up, you can vary the following parameters to reduce lip sync problems:

1) The type of STB you have (e.g., try different STB)
2) Video signal resolution that STB sends to the TV (try different resolutions)
3) Connection type (HDMI, Component)

If the above tweaks do not work for you, then indeed you would have to use the audio delay feature of your Denon receiver to adjust audio delay on every channel separately. Over time, this approach will almost certainly lead to frustration. Please note that your situation is very uncommon, i.e., very few forum members have reported lip sync problems with HDTV programming that approach the severity you have observed with your set-up.

If you use the built-in TV tuner (with or without cable card), your lip sync issues will go away. Yes, you will be able to send 5.1 sound from your TV to the receiver but only for TV programming. If the broadcast is in 5.1, your AV receiver should be getting the correct audio signal from the digital optical audio out on the TV.

However, this audio out will not trasmit 5.1 channel sound if your source is DVD player connected to HDMI input. In this case, it will transmit only 2-channel audio.

I spent about an hour playing deathmatch against bots in PDZ on an old CRT I had. It seemed about the same but after I switched back to the sammy, I just wasn’t doing as well and I had to turn down the sensitivity to reproduce the success I had on the CRT.

I’m not sure what you mean by the game playing faster on your CRT. The game felt sluggish on both TV’s and I think that’s the way the game was designed. Your character moves rather slowly and it initially seems like your walking and not running. The only difference I notice was the aiming sensitivity.

I will say the lag seems better than on the xbox, but it’s not completely gone like I had hoped. It’s possible that turning DNIe off may lower the lag to an imperceptible level but I don’t know that for sure. Can anyone recommend a cheap programmable remote that will work with the SM to disable DNIe?


I agree that the sluggish feeling may be a part of the game, but to me it felt much worse on the sammy. mainly running and turning seemed to be the most noticeable maybe it is in my head. I am using the VGA input. I think that DNIe is not on for that input ...am i wrong?

Hs anyone ran into this problem?

I have had my 6168 since the beginning of the PowerBuy. A few days ago, I noticed a dark strip (about 1.5 inches thick) running down the left side of my screen. This strip is visible (somewhat opaque) on every input including while in the Service Menu. I have attached some pictures. Does anyone have any thoughts?

(The pictures are taken with a white background (from the Service Menu).

Picture 1 (http://www.marounweb.com/6168.HorizView_White1.jpg)

Picture 2 (http://www.marounweb.com/6168.HorizView_White2.jpg)

Picture 3 (http://www.marounweb.com/6168.HorizView_White1.jpg)

Here is the link to his website!
AVICAL (www.avical.com)

hey aron, i saw you posted bout playing games from the pc using the vga imput at 1080p..what kind of video card do u have? also..when u connected to tv with the pc..did u have to uncheck under [properties..hide unsopported mode? or it gave you the option to choose 1920x1080 automatically?..because im using a cheap vga cable..with my new geforce 7800gtx 512mb card with the dvi to vga adapter..and when i hook the tv up it recognizes the tv and everything but at 1280x720..i have to check "hide unsopported mode" to be able to choose 1920x1080..and it works fine..at least watching dvds..wmhd 1080p files..etc..but the problem is with games..when i t ry to change resolution it givea me the option to choose up to 720p only..i tried changing the cfg file for cod 2 and it reverts back to 640x480..etc...any tips???

gaston

Hs anyone ran into this problem?

I have had my 6168 since the beginning of the PowerBuy. A few days ago, I noticed a dark strip (about 1.5 inches thick) running down the left side of my screen. This strip is visible (somewhat opaque) on every input including while in the Service Menu. I have attached some pictures. Does anyone have any thoughts?

(The pictures are taken with a white background (from the Service Menu).

Picture 1 (http://www.marounweb.com/6168.HorizView_White1.jpg)

Picture 2 (http://www.marounweb.com/6168.HorizView_White2.jpg)

Picture 3 (http://www.marounweb.com/6168.HorizView_White1.jpg)

pmaroun,

Can you check the following?:

1). Turn off the light in the room you have your 6168 in. Make sure the room is as dark as possible.

2). Wait for a fully black scene (through your cable box, dvd player, etc.). Perhaps you can just display a black background through the service menu (I have never entered the service menu so I don't know if this is possible).

3). Pause your source and check if a strip similar to the one you photographed is visible. This would appear instead as a strip of increased brightness.

I have the problem that I described above and would like to compare notes with anyone else that might have a similar problem. Good luck!

I agree that the sluggish feeling may be a part of the game, but to me it felt much worse on the sammy. mainly running and turning seemed to be the most noticeable maybe it is in my head. I am using the VGA input. I think that DNIe is not on for that input ...am i wrong?

I think your right about DNIe being off when using the VGA input.

I think I'm going to forget about the lag issue for now. If it's there, it's very minor at least in my testing. It's getting to the point that the thought of having lag is starting to bother me more than the negligible effect it has on the games.

It's kind of like RBE, when you start going out of your way to try and induce rainbows and eventually you train yourself to see them on a regular basis. I haven’t gone out of my way to see rainbows so when I do I’m not particularly bothered by it. I doubt I would have noticed the lag on my own and unless it ruins my enjoyment of the games, it shouldn’t be an issue. I have yet to play on Live so hopefully I can still be competitive but if I play online it’s purely for fun and not to build a ranking.

omegadsl,

I tried it with a black background, but then I do not see the strip on the side. It appears to be a dark strip that shows when you have a lighter background.

I also tried adjusting the horiz and vert alignment.. but the strip remains at the same position on the screen regardless of how the screen is adjusted horizontaly.

Correct, no digicam can capture 1080 at 60 progressive. Sony CineAlta will do 1080 at 24/25/30 progressive or 50/60 interlaced.

Check out the Sony 1500. 1080p60. It can be displayed on a monitor using dual-link but no recorder exists...yet... to record the image. The output of the cameras is either 1080i60 or 720p60 for HD production.

"LAS VEGAS (NAB Booth SU6406), April 17, 2005 - Game Creek Video's mobile video production units support the diverse broadcast needs of many clients. That's why when Sony developed its 1080/60P multi-format camera technology, Game Creek eagerly took delivery of 39 HDC-1500 multi-format cameras, with plans to add several more throughout its fleet of trucks."

http://pro.sony.com.hk/news_showlist.php?id=3337&path=type,events_release,year,2005,12,3390,13,3337

http://videopark.com/hd.htm

http://news.sel.sony.com/digitalimages/photo?photo_id=175989

SERVICE MENU LISTING

The attached PDF file is a copy of all the service menu items. :D

Doesn't seem to be all. My service manual shows 14 sections in the service manual.

ADV7401 - 46 items
XILLEON226 - 5 items
Upd64083 - 8 items
MSP4440 - 4 items
CCA - 37 items
Cinema CCA - 14 items
SP Actuator - 7 items
GM1601 - 14 items
OPTION - 20 items
SERVICE - 13 items

how do u upgrade the firmware on these 1080p tvs?

According to the service manual:

Prepare the USB stick with the firmware.
With the TV off, insert the USB stick into the Service terminal.
Turn the TV on. The set will download the firmware.
You will hear a long beeping tone when the D/L is complete.
Turn the TV off and remove the USB stick.

Now the question is where to get the updated firmware, if it even exists.

I heard the same thing all the time. I think that maybe it is the transformer, something to do with the power supply of the Unit. What does everyone think here? Or is the case expanding and shrinking of the plastic after the TV is cooled down by the heat of the TV?

The service manual recommends loosening the cabinet screws if you are hearing any "creaking" or a"short, harsh" noise. I haven't tried this. Your mileage may vary.

hey aron, i saw you posted bout playing games from the pc using the vga imput at 1080p..what kind of video card do u have? also..when u connected to tv with the pc..did u have to uncheck under [properties..hide unsopported mode? or it gave you the option to choose 1920x1080 automatically?..because im using a cheap vga cable..with my new geforce 7800gtx 512mb card with the dvi to vga adapter..and when i hook the tv up it recognizes the tv and everything but at 1280x720..i have to check "hide unsopported mode" to be able to choose 1920x1080..and it works fine..at least watching dvds..wmhd 1080p files..etc..but the problem is with games..when i t ry to change resolution it givea me the option to choose up to 720p only..i tried changing the cfg file for cod 2 and it reverts back to 640x480..etc...any tips???

gaston

I have a 6800 card and am using the vga output. It is checked to hide the unsupported modes. With the unsupported modes hidden it shows 1920x1080 and 1920x1200 as a resolution that is supported. I never tried the DVI output but that must be the problem. i guess they stopped putting the vga outputs on the new cards and you have to use an adapter. Pretty soon the dVI output will disappear to be replaced by the new connector they want to make a standard. I think that comes out next year.

To the best of my knowledge, existing users cannot update firmware on their own.

The service manual shows how to update the firmware. You use a USB stick to insert the update in the Service port. Easy for anyone to do.

Now... let's hope some update will be available.

I started tinkering with some service menu settings, and just came up with the single biggest improvement to my PQ barring BWS (which is huge.)

Poking around in the GM1601 menu I noticed that ADC_BLUE_OFFSET was 0 while red and green were 50. Setting Blue to 50 also got rid of some very odd coloration in what were supposed to be smooth grey gradiants. (Check out the Test Pattern setting inside GM1601 before and after making the change.)

I see that turning on CCA changes the picture, but I can't say that it's better or worse, just different. Any opinions? It seems to warm up the picture but I turned it off as the additional processing can only add to lag.

I started tinkering with some service menu settings, and just came up with the single biggest improvement to my PQ barring BWS (which is huge.)

Poking around in the GM1601 menu I noticed that ADC_BLUE_OFFSET was 0 while red and green were 50. Setting Blue to 50 also got rid of some very odd coloration in what were supposed to be smooth grey gradiants. (Check out the Test Pattern setting inside GM1601 before and after making the change.)


The service manual shows 50 as the default value for ADC_BLUE_OFFSET.

Huh... well, then minewas shipped misadjusted as this is the first time I'd ever been in that menu. Either way it's better now. :)

CNET has a review of the HL-R6768. They state it has issues with blacks due to inconsistentcy when changing input or even chapters on a DVD. they also say that the DNe sucks major and ding it bad for not being able to turn it off like last years model. they go on to say it does not have true 1080P and uses wobulation so that somehow the 1000000 mirrors fake it to look like 2000000 pixels. Overall they rated it 7.8 out of 10 with the grips as stated above. The link is below.

what do you think? I guess someone figured out how to turn off the Dne and that makes a big difference I hear?



http://shopper.cnet.com/Samsung_HL_R6768W/4014-6484_9-31335745.html

Yes, it makes a big difference!

Yes, it makes a big difference!

I've always known I'm different :p but am I the only one who likes the sharp clear image that DNIe produces?

This article claims that more than 56% of 53 TVs tested, processed only 540 of the 1080 lines available in a 1080i signal. The article isn’t specific about which TVs were tested but claims that all the Samsung DLPs failed the test. The author (Gary Merson) claims that some sets with native 1080P resolution failed the test but again isn’t specific about which manufacturers.
I’m very pleased with the picture quality on my 6168 but I’m disappointed with the statements made in this article.
Samsung plasma and LCD sets all passed the test.
I would like to hear from someone who has read the article and has more knowledge than I do on the subject.

Edit: The testing was completed prior to August in a Best Buy. I am confident that none of the TVs tested could have been Samsung 1080P DLPs. The author states that more 1080P sets will be tested and results published in future articles.

Second edit: This article has caused quite a bit of interest in another forum. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=608670&page=1&pp=30
The Faroudja chip appears to be culprit. Does anyone know which Faroudja chip is used in the HLR sets?

I've always known I'm different :p but am I the only one who likes the sharp clear image that DNIe produces?

Hey Goob, Im with you ! But to each his own !

Also I am going to re post something I did last night because it may get lost if its not in this official thread.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Their has been much discussion on Black level changes when switching inputs on Sammy DLP's especially via DVI or HDMI. After experimentation I beleive I have the fix.

Please start on Standard {contrast 80 , brightness 50 etc} so everyone is on the same page.

If you go into the service menu , under Dnile , then Sub Brightness. Let your display warm up for 10 minutes. Now you want to display material that is completely black, either from a calibration disc, or even from a DVR {The begining of most movies contains a 1 second pause of a black screen right before the movie begins, pause {freeze it}. The image must be completely black , you cannot use a screen with no material because the Samsung will display a message weak signal or no input.

Now if you lower the lights in your room , what is supposed to be a black screen actually contains excess light, maybe even some artifact nasties.

Gradually lower the sub brightness until you see any light turn into a completely black backround.

Essentially you are adjusting the sub-brightness control in the service menu high enough to be able to see the alternation between black and blacker-than-black. Finally, adjust the sub-brightness back down, just to the point that you no longer see the difference between black and blacker-than-black.

My theory is somewhere in the 1st 100 hours of use the bulb actually brightnens {logically you would think it would dim} .

Now of course exit the service menu , let your display cool down , power up again, wait about 10 minutes, turn on your STB or display of choice , toggle around let me know if you have had the success I had. My Sub Brightness was factory set at 248, its now at 234 and I am a happy camper. Let me know your results , Thanks

I've always known I'm different :p but am I the only one who likes the sharp clear image that DNIe produces?
I've tried it both ways and I must say that I like the sharper edges also. I left mine on.

I too read the article with great interest and was dissapointed that the specific set model #s were not listed in a table. It also seems like the Sony LCD RP (A10 series) passes while the Samsung DLP RP all failed.

Dennis

I've always known I'm different :p but am I the only one who likes the sharp clear image that DNIe produces?

Thanks goob! I now feel safe to come out of the closet. I too like the sharper picture with DNIe. I'll even admit (gasp!) that I like the factory default setting for gamma.

Also, with DNIe on I find that my crappy Comcast analog signals are actually watchable, not true with the HD CRT I replaced.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Their has been much discussion on Black level changes when switching inputs on Sammy DLP's especially via DVI or HDMI. After experimentation I beleive I have the fix.

Please start on Standard {contrast 80 , brightness 50 etc} so everyone is on the same page.

If you go into the service menu , under Dnile , then Sub Brightness. Let your display warm up for 10 minutes. Now you want to display material that is completely black, either from a calibration disc, or even from a DVR {The begining of most movies contains a 1 second pause of a black screen right before the movie begins, pause {freeze it}. The image must be completely black , you cannot use a screen with no material because the Samsung will display a message weak signal or no input.

Now if you lower the lights in your room , what is supposed to be a black screen actually contains excess light, maybe even some artifact nasties.

Gradually lower the sub brightness until you see any light turn into a completely black backround.

Essentially you are adjusting the sub-brightness control in the service menu high enough to be able to see the alternation between black and blacker-than-black. Finally, adjust the sub-brightness back down, just to the point that you no longer see the difference between black and blacker-than-black.

My theory is somewhere in the 1st 100 hours of use the bulb actually brightnens {logically you would think it would dim} .

Now of course exit the service menu , let your display cool down , power up again, wait about 10 minutes, turn on your STB or display of choice , toggle around let me know if you have had the success I had. My Sub Brightness was factory set at 248, its now at 234 and I am a happy camper. Let me know your results , Thanks

I've played with those settings quite a bit and while you can certainly minimize the problem, it really can't be eliminated. For example, I've now eliminated it for switches from any input to HDMI 1, but if I switch from an input to HDMI 2, I still have the problem. I can change it so that HDMI 2 works, but then I get the problem with HDMI 1. Instead, for HDMI 2, I've just set my black level such that it's at the correct level when I switch inputs without having to send a picture mode command. Hopefully Samsung will come out with a fix though.

I was reading somewhere backthat people were having a problem with the Tv guide. I got my tv yesterday and setup the OTA antenna. This morning I got up and the tv guide was filled and working fine.
I live about 70 miles SE of Sacramento.

I've always known I'm different :p but am I the only one who likes the sharp clear image that DNIe produces?

That's the problem though. It doesn't produce a sharp, clear image. It makes it artificial and creates things that aren't supposed to be there. It is a night and day difference between DNIe on and off. The only situation where I initially thought DNIe looked better was on text, only because it made it appear sharper, but when you look closer you actually see ringing and double lines around the letters.

I've played with those settings quite a bit and while you can certainly minimize the problem, it really can't be eliminated. For example, I've now eliminated it for switches from any input to HDMI 1, but if I switch from an input to HDMI 2, I still have the problem. I can change it so that HDMI 2 works, but then I get the problem with HDMI 1. Instead, for HDMI 2, I've just set my black level such that it's at the correct level when I switch inputs without having to send a picture mode command. Hopefully Samsung will come out with a fix though.
You can't get that to work correctly unless the dynamic Iris is turned off, which happens when you disable DNIe. The iris will behave differently depending on whether the picture is going from dark to light or light to dark.

can anyone help explan to turn off DNIe. Please explan step by step.

Thanks

This article claims that more than 56% of 53 TVs tested, processed only 540 of the 1080 lines available in a 1080i signal. The article isn’t specific about which TVs were tested but claims that all the Samsung DLPs failed the test. The author (Gary Merson) claims that some sets with native 1080P resolution failed the test but again isn’t specific about which manufacturers.
I’m very pleased with the picture quality on my 6168 but I’m disappointed with the statements made in this article.
Samsung plasma and LCD sets all passed the test.
I would like to hear from someone who has read the article and has more knowledge than I do on the subject.

Edit: The testing was completed prior to August in a Best Buy. I am confident that none of the TVs tested could have been Samsung 1080P DLPs. The author states that more 1080P sets will be tested and results published in future articles.

Second edit: This article has caused quite a bit of interest in another forum. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=608670&page=1&pp=30
The Faroudja chip appears to be culprit. Does anyone know which Faroudja chip is used in the HLR sets?

If you, or another member, can scan and email me the article, I will review it and decide if the point is valid. If it is, I will contact Dan S., Samsung's DLP manager about the issue and try to get a resolution or at least a technical answer from engineering.

As a separate topic for discussion, I have never confirmed that the Faroudja chip is being used in these TV. I know schaffer970 research this earlier, but I thought the 1080p TV's were not using the Faroudja. Anyone care to clarify this issue?

Steve P., Samsung's Director of DLP at the time, was asked about the 1080 vs 540 issues prior to the TV's introduction and confirmed that they were in fact generatiing the full 1080 lines of resolution.

If you, or another member, can scan and email me the article, I will review it and decide if the point is valid. If it is, I will contact Dan S., Samsung's DLP manager about the issue and try to get a resolution or at least a technical answer from engineering.

As a separate topic for discussion, I have never confirmed that the Faroudja chip is being used in these TV. I know schaffer970 research this earlier, but I thought the 1080p TV's were not using the Faroudja. Anyone care to clarify this issue?

Steve P., Samsung's Director of DLP at the time, was asked about the 1080 vs 540 issues prior to the TV's introduction and confirmed that they were in fact generatiing the full 1080 lines of resolution.

Bill,
I sent you an email. The article didn’t say the Samsung TVs had the Faroudja chip but mentions the chip in the article. I thought that I had read on one of the forums that the HLRs had the Faroudja chip but that may have been my misunderstanding.
Do a search on “bobbing” in this forum to see the activity this article is causing.

Bill,
I sent you an email. The article didn’t say the Samsung TVs had the Faroudja chip but mentions the chip in the article. I thought that I had read on one of the forums that the HLRs had the Faroudja chip but that may have been my misunderstanding.
Do a search on “bobbing” in this forum to see the activity this article is causing.


Here is a link to the PDF of the Block Diagram for the 1080p sets. It is from the FCC web site. Link - fcc.gov (https://gullfoss2.fcc.gov/prod/oet/forms/blobs/retrieve.cgi?attachment_id=561784&native_or_pdf=pdf) The scaler for most of the input is an ATI Xilleon 226 chip. The scaler for the PC input is a GM 1601 (Genesis Microchip). Here is the PRESS RELEASE (http://ir.ati.com/phoenix.zhtml?c=105421&p=irol-newsArticle_print&ID=690881&highlight=) from when Samsung and ATI announced that Samsung would be using the ATI Xilleon 226 and Theater 313 chip (used for tv processing). The important words for deinterlacing is as follows: "Xilleon 226 also features spatial-temporal adaptive deinterlacing to ensure the highest quality video output." Samsung does not use the Faroudja chip.

I was reading somewhere backthat people were having a problem with the Tv guide. I got my tv yesterday and setup the OTA antenna. This morning I got up and the tv guide was filled and working fine.
I live about 70 miles SE of Sacramento.

If you should have problems with the TV Guide - say everything goes away - the solution is to put 00000 in as your zip code and no to the other questions. Then leave your set off overnight. The next day then put in your correct zip code, change the setup questions to what you have and again wait for everything to download overnight. Everything should be working. :)

Here is a link to the PDF of the Block Diagram for the 1080p sets. It is from the FCC web site. Link - fcc.gov (https://gullfoss2.fcc.gov/prod/oet/forms/blobs/retrieve.cgi?attachment_id=561784&native_or_pdf=pdf) The scaler for most of the input is an ATI Xilleon 226 chip. The scaler for the PC input is a GM 1601 (Genesis Microchip). Here is the PRESS RELEASE (http://ir.ati.com/phoenix.zhtml?c=105421&p=irol-newsArticle_print&ID=690881&highlight=) from when Samsung and ATI announced that Samsung would be using the ATI Xilleon 226 and Theater 313 chip (used for tv processing). The important words for deinterlacing is as follows: "Xilleon 226 also features spatial-temporal adaptive deinterlacing to ensure the highest quality video output." Samsung does not use the Faroudja chip.

Thank you for the update. The author of the article posted here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6610049&&#post6610049
It will be interesting to see if the HLR sets were included in his November tests.

how do u get into the menu service?

How do you get into the Service Menu if you do not have a pronto remote that can store hex codes? How can we use the supplied remote to do this?

Thanks-

How do you get into the Service Menu if you do not have a pronto remote that can store hex codes? How can we use the supplied remote to do this?

Thanks-

schaffer970 posted this a while ago and this was posted several times more recently....

"The service menu screen is brought up using the remote, with: Set on: Power-Mute-1-8-2-Power; Set off: Mute-1-8-2-Power - wait for 15-20 seconds and the Service Menu screen will come up. "

I have the tivo going into a pioneer elite vxx-74txvi through SV, my dvd into the receiver by component, but I have my OTA hooked directly into the tv which causes me to switch inputs on my tv when I switch from D* to OTA HD. Is there a way for me to hook this up and not have to switch inputs without getting a new hd tivo running through my receiver?

Basically, does the OTA coax always have to run into the tv directly?

I purchased the 6168W primarily in anticipation of high-def video gaming (I'm console game programmer by trade), and can confirm pretty bad lag on the component video inputs for the 6168W.

Switching the Xbox 360 to use the VGA cable resulted in much much much better response times (as good as CRTs and LCDs), and is the only way that I can stand this TV for gaming. If you care at all about playing competitively you should shell out for the VGA cable.

This is a pretty big disappointment for a big-bucks set, as I was hoping to use the VGA input for a HTPC, and now have to investigate finding or making a remote controllable VGA switcher. Unfortunately, I bought online from a store with a great price, but a no-return policy. I didn't even imagine that a TV could introduce this much lag. I'll be calling Samsung tomorrow to complain.

You have to disable DNIe and there won't be a problem on the component inputs. DNIe is not enabled on the vga input. Once you disable it on the component input for that specific reslution you won't have the lag.

You have to disable DNIe and there won't be a problem on the component inputs. DNIe is not enabled on the vga input. Once you disable it on the component input for that specific reslution you won't have the lag.

I tried to follow the 240+ pages but I thought that setting reset every power on, correct? Unless I have a programmable remote that can do the shuffle at tv on time? I use the harmony remotes, can that be set up to do such a thing, or do I have to buy yet another remote?

This article claims that more than 56% of 53 TVs tested, processed only 540 of the 1080 lines available in a 1080i signal. The article isn’t specific about which TVs were tested but claims that all the Samsung DLPs failed the test. The author (Gary Merson) claims that some sets with native 1080P resolution failed the test but again isn’t specific about which manufacturers.
I’m very pleased with the picture quality on my 6168 but I’m disappointed with the statements made in this article.
Samsung plasma and LCD sets all passed the test.
I would like to hear from someone who has read the article and has more knowledge than I do on the subject.

Edit: The testing was completed prior to August in a Best Buy. I am confident that none of the TVs tested could have been Samsung 1080P DLPs. The author states that more 1080P sets will be tested and results published in future articles.

Second edit: This article has caused quite a bit of interest in another forum.
The Faroudja chip appears to be culprit. Does anyone know which Faroudja chip is used in the HLR sets?


Gary Merson's article in the December 2005 issue of THE PERFECT VISION entitled:

'Tested and Failed: Many Digital HDTV's Throw Away Up to Half of Available Resolution' (page 14)

Interesting article: Merson uses an SMPTE 133 test pattern at 1080i, with and without motion, to simulate HDTV broadcasts on a variety of LCD flat panels, plasmas, RPTV's, LCoS rear projectors, DLP's, and DLP front projectors from local retailers and manufacturers

56% of the 53 HDTV's tested failed the test by processing only 540 of the 1080 lines transmitted in each frame

The article explains that newer chipsets by Pixelworks and Genesis, properly deinterlace 1080i signals, but many of the HDTV's tested still used older chipsets and failed the test

Some very interesting results; and some surprises

I recommend everyone get a hold of this issue

In the other thread, markrubin specifies that the newer chipsets by Genesis properly deinterlace 1080i signals. This should mean that the new HLR pedestal TV's also passed the test since they include this newer chip?? Were the newer HLR models included in the test?? Should I be concerned since I'm getting the HLR5087W which is a 720 TV?

I am getting on Saturday the HLR5087W 50" pedestal TV by Samsung and am wondering where is the thread/threads for this TV only, or is it bunched up with the other models?? Also, I haven't found much of anything else besides this forum talking about this TV. Does anyone know of other forums discussing the same topics..etc.. If not, should a thread be started for only the HLR5087W pedestal? I would like to know simple info on the TV, for example...which DVD upconversion players work best with it..etc..

Thanks - Superman

I'm very new to widescreen TV: I just got my HLR6768 3 weeks ago. I started watching a 2.35:1 DVD on my Sony DVD player in 480p via component and had something weird happen. With the TV in 16:9 mode the picture is squished vertically. To get the proper image I needed to put the TV in ZOOM1 mode. I tried several other DVDs in 2.35 widescreen. Some looked right with the TV in 16:9 mode while others required it to be in ZOOM1 mode. I tried a different Sony DVD player and it behaved the same way. Does this have something to do with anamorphic vs. non-anamorphic DVDs? I'm confused...

I tried to follow the 240+ pages but I thought that setting reset every power on, correct? Unless I have a programmable remote that can do the shuffle at tv on time? I use the harmony remotes, can that be set up to do such a thing, or do I have to buy yet another remote?

I use the Harmony 880 and have it programmed with the service menu code. If you are also using an 880, then you can call tech support and have them copy the "Service Menu" command from my HL-R6168W config to yours (also have them copy the discrete codes for the picture modes). Logitech username : "Goob The Noob"

If you don't use the 880, you should be able to email the Pronto code, posted in many places in this thread, to Logitech tech support and have them add it for you.

I tried to follow the 240+ pages but I thought that setting reset every power on, correct? Unless I have a programmable remote that can do the shuffle at tv on time? I use the harmony remotes, can that be set up to do such a thing, or do I have to buy yet another remote?
Link: Suggestions on how to permanently disable DNIe on HLR sets (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6552192&&#post6552192).

I'm very new to widescreen TV: I just got my HLR6768 3 weeks ago. I started watching a 2.35:1 DVD on my Sony DVD player in 480p via component and had something weird happen. With the TV in 16:9 mode the picture is squished vertically. To get the proper image I needed to put the TV in ZOOM1 mode. I tried several other DVDs in 2.35 widescreen. Some looked right with the TV in 16:9 mode while others required it to be in ZOOM1 mode. I tried a different Sony DVD player and it behaved the same way. Does this have something to do with anamorphic vs. non-anamorphic DVDs? I'm confused...

You need to look at this thread: Where Did Those "Black Bars" Come From (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=328207). What you need to realize is that your TV is a 16x9 (width to height - 1.78:1) format, while the movie you want to watch is 2.35:1. To get the whole picture on the screen without distorting the picture in some way, you have to leave space at the top and bottom.

I purchased the 6168W primarily in anticipation of high-def video gaming (I'm console game programmer by trade), and can confirm pretty bad lag on the component video inputs for the 6168W.

Switching the Xbox 360 to use the VGA cable resulted in much much much better response times (as good as CRTs and LCDs), and is the only way that I can stand this TV for gaming. If you care at all about playing competitively you should shell out for the VGA cable.

This is a pretty big disappointment for a big-bucks set, as I was hoping to use the VGA input for a HTPC, and now have to investigate finding or making a remote controllable VGA switcher. Unfortunately, I bought online from a store with a great price, but a no-return policy. I didn't even imagine that a TV could introduce this much lag. I'll be calling Samsung tomorrow to complain.

I just found this, vga switcher w/ remote (http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=536048&CatId=599)

Im prob gonna order when i get my xb360. Not giving up my htpc.

Hello all

Firstly, I would like to thank everyone that's written such positive things in regards to my calibration services and for continuing to recommend me... :)

I've had a number of people ask me how to perform ring-focus on the 1080p displays so here you go.

YOU MUST USE EXTREME CAUTION AS YOU'LL NEED TO STICK YOUR HAND INSIDE THE TV WHILE IT'S TURNED ON TO PERFORM RING-FOCUS! I ASSUME NO RESPONSIBILITY IF DAMAGE OCCURS AS A RESULT OF ANYONE ATTEMPTING THIS SOMEWHAT DANGEROUS ADJUSTMENT!

First, disconnect all cables running into the TV including the power cable. Then remove all the screws holding the back panel. Once you remove the back panel remove the two screws at the bottom left that secure the chassis that holds the digital and analogue boards including the gold ground screw to the left. Next, slide out the chassis slightly just enough to get your hand inside. The ring focus adjustment will be located towards the back and center of the cabinet. If you point a flashlight in that direction you will just barely be able to see a "ring" with ridges. That's what you want to adjust. Next, reconnect the power cord to the TV and make sure that the safety switch just below the DMD module is taped up so that TV can turn it back on.

At this point, you would enter the service menu (mute, 1, 8, 2, power) and put up one of the internal crosshatch patterns. To do this choose the DDP1011(8) option once the service menu appears. Then choose "Test Patterns" and right click until a crosshatch pattern appears (13 clicks). Since the focus is done from the rear, you'll need a mirror at the front of the TV to see your adjustments. Now with your hand inside the TV, adjust the focus so that you attain the most crisp setting at the center of the screen while balancing out the sides.

That's it.

BTW, I think that I may have found a way to get the PLUGE to appear via the component inputs. I'll keep everyone posted in regards to this over the next couple of days.

Eliab


My 6768 has a great picture in almost all respects. But, I have noticed that when running slide shows on my htpc the images are very good but closer inspection reveals that they are slightly out of focus.
My question is, are my images out of focus mechanically or is this an image processing problem. The pics are high rez and look so on a computer monitor. Actually, I can't really call it a "problem" but I am wondering if I should attempt the ring focus procedure. Extreme caution duly noted, but I can't resist taking things apart.

In the other thread, markrubin specifies that the newer chipsets by Genesis properly deinterlace 1080i signals. This should mean that the new HLR pedestal TV's also passed the test since they include this newer chip?? Were the newer HLR models included in the test?? Should I be concerned since I'm getting the HLR5087W which is a 720 TV?

I am getting on Saturday the HLR5087W 50" pedestal TV by Samsung and am wondering where is the thread/threads for this TV only, or is it bunched up with the other models?? Also, I haven't found much of anything else besides this forum talking about this TV. Does anyone know of other forums discussing the same topics..etc.. If not, should a thread be started for only the HLR5087W pedestal? I would like to know simple info on the TV, for example...which DVD upconversion players work best with it..etc..

Thanks - Superman
Superman ... no shortage of ego there :D ... here is the link for the xx87 owners thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=543286&page=1&pp=20

Link: Suggestions on how to permanently disable DNIe on HLR sets (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6552192&&#post6552192).

I am just using this post to update people on the lipsync issue. Folks were wondering if the lipsync problem goes away if we disable DNIE by bigray327's method. I can state that the lipsync problem does NOT go away even if I turn off the DNIE. I played the same DVD on my Oppo (connected to HDMI1) and my laptop doing 1080p over VGA. There was lipsync problem on the HDMI1 and none on the VGA.

The only issue that is confusing me is that when I turn OFF those two values in the DNIE SM (SNI_PROC_DEP and SNI_PROC_DCE), I don't see a SIGNIFICANT difference in PQ! Any good DVD/Cable material folks can recommend which I can use to compare DNIE ON v/s OFF?

Cheers.

Thats because bigray327's method of disabling those two values does not disable DNIe. There are more things involved with the DNIe process than those two values. With DNIe disabled it does fix any gaming lag with the Xbox 360 over component for me.

Thats because bigray327's method of disabling those two values does not disable DNIe. There are more things involved with the DNIe process than those two values. With DNIe disabled it does fix any gaming lag with the Xbox 360 over component for me.


If DNIe is the reason for the video lag:

I remember reading that older models had the ability to turn off DNIe? If this is true, didn't those still have lag?

I really want to go with a DLP but I fear that the RBE will ruin things for me as well as I cannot live with ANY noticeable video or audio lag as I'd like to do gaming and also use the TV as a PC monitor. Samsung's DLP unit form factor appeals to me..The Mitsus are also not wasteful as in cabinet space but they only go to 52" whereas 50" would be the max I could work with (48" total width would be stretching it). I wish they would just use a 3DLP engine in these TVs and get over with it. That would resolve a lot of consumer complaints.

I have wireless headphones with the transmitter plugged into an audio output of my amp. I want to use them if I am watching OTA, DVD, DVR, Camcorder, or listing to the radio tuner. I have the AV Out of the TV connected to an input of the amp and the stereo output of the DVD player connected to the TV Component1 audio input. I discovered I got no signal from the TV's AV Out while watching the DVD. I found in the TV manual

If using the HDMI/DVI, PC, or
Component input on the TV, the
audio output signal is available
only when the TV’s Internal Mute
is set to on.

What is the reason for this? When watching OTA, I get signals from both the Digital Out and the AV Out. What is different about Component, etc?

I do not use internal mute, I just turn the TV volume down, it is easier than messing with the menu. I thought that might be the problem, but I still got no signal when I increased the TV volume. That is when dug into the manual and found that note about the AV Out.

If I plug the transmitter into the Phone Jack on the amp and set the amp to the digital audio input from the TV it works, but I have to plug and unplug the transmitter every time.

My menu screen when I push the menu button is no longer centered it is now a little left and up. Has any one ever seen this? It still works fine just not in the same position.

Thats because bigray327's method of disabling those two values does not disable DNIe. There are more things involved with the DNIe process than those two values. With DNIe disabled it does fix any gaming lag with the Xbox 360 over component for me.

Oh Ok! Can you shed some light on this for me and others then? How did you turn OFF DNIE? Help appreciated.

Juts ordered my HL-R6768W - I stuck with TVauthority.com - I actually called a few brooklyn dealers - sorry could not take the chance. Nothing nothing but bad comments on them. I have been looking for months now on who to buy from, they seems to fairly priced and seems to have great customer support - I'll post when it arrives.

I considered the sites posted on Sammy site, but they all were $500 or more in price.

Some sites were lower, but after being on the phone with them, I was certain the TV
would most likey not arrive, or arrive with hassles/problems.

Just wanted to leave feedback as I have not seen too many talking about other options where to buy and success/failure.

NV

Juts ordered my HL-R6768W - I stuck with TVauthority.com - I actually called a few brooklyn dealers - sorry could not take the chance. Nothing nothing but bad comments on them. I have been looking for months now on who to buy from, they seems to fairly priced and seems to have great customer support - I'll post when it arrives.

I considered the sites posted on Sammy site, but they all were $500 or more in price.

Some sites were lower, but after being on the phone with them, I was certain the TV
would most likey not arrive, or arrive with hassles/problems.

Just wanted to leave feedback as I have not seen too many talking about other options where to buy and success/failure.

NV

There is a whole thread on the TV Authority powerbuy and people's experiences, but they were generally very positive. The only problems were with shipping damage and sets that developed early problems (both issues not caused by TVA). Since you are in NV, the TV will not be coming very far and that will greatly increase your chances of getting the set in perfect condition. Good luck.

Anybody ever use these guys in NJ?

They have a very competitive price on the NS3100ES and they say they are factory authorized.

Thanks

Is there any hope that Samsung will release some sort of software update to the sets that will allow 1080p over other inputs other than VGA?

It would need a hardware update. The HDMI chips that they used can't support 1080P.

.

Oh Ok! Can you shed some light on this for me and others then? How did you turn OFF DNIE? Help appreciated.

It's been posted many times in this thread. The "Search This Thread" feature is quite helpful. :)

My menu screen when I push the menu button is no longer centered it is now a little left and up. Has any one ever seen this? It still works fine just not in the same position.

Mine has always been up and left.

Hello all,
I hope someone can shed some light on my problem. I have had my 6768 for about a month now and last night when I fired it up it seemed to take a little longer than usual for the picture to start. In other words I turned it on and heard the tones and the lamp light was flashing for a bit and then the picture came up. I cycled the power on and off and that was it poof nothing now. The lamp light is continuously flashing. The lamp is actually on because I can see it on when I look behind the TV. I can hear what sounds like the color wheel spinning up but I never get the power up tones like before. In the past I think I have seen a slight flicker come and go. I have tried to unplug for a while but when I replug it goes back to the lamp flashing thing and the picture never comes up. I can see a slight lighting of the screen but no picture. I guess I’ll make a call to service now but fear that I’ll end up getting a yoyo that knows nothing about what he’s doing and end up worse off than before or end up with a lesser picture quality.
Any thoughts on this matter would be appreciated.

Thanks.

I'm no expert on how things are done here but there needs to be a sticky FAQ or first post that answers the FAQs.
This thread is 249 pages long and topics can go in any direction (calibration, Xbox360, lip synch, DNEi, etc.) it would be nice to have an easy location to go for tips tricks and cheats.
If you do a search on DNEi, you'll get 50 results, I'm sure.

I am so confused! I have bounced back and forthe from the Sammy 5668 to the HP 5880. The HP's PIP really sucks and it is a deal breaker for me. The Sammy seems to have alot of issues too, such as lag, DNEi issues and others. I am just going to use my TV as a TV. No computer hookup and I watch alot of sports, SD, and movies. Can someone please give me some feedback on this Sammy? Is it worth it or is there too many problems with it? I want it by Christmas, but I am really confused. I also considered the Sony SXRD. What does everyone think?

Hello all,
I hope someone can shed some light on my problem. I have had my 6768 for about a month now and last night when I fired it up it seemed to take a little longer than usual for the picture to start. In other words I turned it on and heard the tones and the lamp light was flashing for a bit and then the picture came up. I cycled the power on and off and that was it poof nothing now. The lamp light is continuously flashing. The lamp is actually on because I can see it on when I look behind the TV. I can hear what sounds like the color wheel spinning up but I never get the power up tones like before. In the past I think I have seen a slight flicker come and go. I have tried to unplug for a while but when I replug it goes back to the lamp flashing thing and the picture never comes up. I can see a slight lighting of the screen but no picture. I guess I’ll make a call to service now but fear that I’ll end up getting a yoyo that knows nothing about what he’s doing and end up worse off than before or end up with a lesser picture quality.
Any thoughts on this matter would be appreciated.

Thanks.

I had a similar experience with my 6168 a few weeks ago. Samsung came out on a service call, and replaced my light engine. In my case, the picture would come on for up to 30 seconds before going blank. Although I had a little difficulty in scheduling the visit by their authorized center, once the tech arrived everything went quickly and smoothly.

Good luck!

Alan

It's been posted many times in this thread. The "Search This Thread" feature is quite helpful. :)

I have read almost all the posts since this thread's inception. (what does that say about me??). Of course, I might have missed something...

As I said, I tried setting the values bigray mentions in his post and others seem to have corroborated. In my case, setting those values to OFF doesn't make a big difference to the PQ and does not remove audio lag.

Aaronwt has hinted that there are some other things I need to do in order to totally remove DNIE. I was merely trying to find out what those things are.... Besides, as someone else said - the search feature will not necessarily provide the answers because there are just too many posts on that particular topic.

Cheers.

I am so confused! I have bounced back and forthe from the Sammy 5668 to the HP 5880. The HP's PIP really sucks and it is a deal breaker for me. The Sammy seems to have alot of issues too, such as lag, DNEi issues and others. I am just going to use my TV as a TV. No computer hookup and I watch alot of sports, SD, and movies. Can someone please give me some feedback on this Sammy? Is it worth it or is there too many problems with it? I want it by Christmas, but I am really confused. I also considered the Sony SXRD. What does everyone think?

Remember that the ragging that goes on here is over details that most people will never care about. I have a HLR6168 and love it for watching TV and DVD movies. I use a Motorola 6412 STB for cable and watch a fair amount of SD TV. Sitting between 8 and 9 foot away the SD is VERY watchable in my opinion. HD is obviously great! Much of the lag associated with TV has to do with the source and has nothing to do with the set. If it really bothers you there are workable solutions. If you are going to use the TV speakers then lag is even less of a problem, this is mostly a problem when sending the audio to a separate receiver.

Good luck! :)

Remember that the ragging that goes on here is over details that most people will never care about. I have a HLR6168 and love it for watching TV and DVD movies. I use a Motorola 6412 STB for cable and watch a fair amount of SD TV. Sitting between 8 and 9 foot away the SD is VERY watchable in my opinion. HD is obviously great! Much of the lag associated with TV has to do with the source and has nothing to do with the set. If it really bothers you there are workable solutions. If you are going to use the TV speakers then lag is even less of a problem, this is mostly a problem when sending the audio to a separate receiver.

Good luck! :)

I would agree in general. But I just want to point out that to get the best possible picture out of this set, you may need to calibrate it yourself or get it professionally calibrated. But this is true of almost all sets.

I also agree that with the Moto 6412 III, SD is very watchable! HD is great!

Hello all,
I hope someone can shed some light on my problem. I have had my 6768 for about a month now and last night when I fired it up it seemed to take a little longer than usual for the picture to start. In other words I turned it on and heard the tones and the lamp light was flashing for a bit and then the picture came up. I cycled the power on and off and that was it poof nothing now. The lamp light is continuously flashing. The lamp is actually on because I can see it on when I look behind the TV. I can hear what sounds like the color wheel spinning up but I never get the power up tones like before. In the past I think I have seen a slight flicker come and go. I have tried to unplug for a while but when I replug it goes back to the lamp flashing thing and the picture never comes up. I can see a slight lighting of the screen but no picture. I guess I’ll make a call to service now but fear that I’ll end up getting a yoyo that knows nothing about what he’s doing and end up worse off than before or end up with a lesser picture quality.
Any thoughts on this matter would be appreciated.

Thanks.
I had a similar problem after short cycling the set (turned on, then cut off before full illumination). The next day when I turned it on, it acted the same as yours with light in the back but no image. I tried various cycling methods of longer duration and eventually let it just run for 15-20 minutes with no image. Finally, the image came on and tv has been functioning normally ever since.

I am guessing that somehow the short cycling caused the DLP chip to hang. Eventually, it re-set/rebooted and behaved normally.

I posted the issue a couple of times but did not get any "me too's" after posting. Since the tv has been perfect after this one glitch, I wrote it off as something I caused by short cycling the set. Hope yours clears as well.

Is there any hope that Samsung will release some sort of software update to the sets that will allow 1080p over other inputs other than VGA?
No ... Samsung was clear about the TV spec's from the beginning.

The HDMI chips that they used can't support 1080P.

If I am reading the service manual schematic of the digital block board diagram correctly, the PC VGA signal enters the IPC and Matrix scaler at the "end of the line". It is after the X226 main processor chip and after the DNle processor. So it seems that it enters the circuit after the other video streams are processed into 1080. That would explain why there is less to no delay and why you would see no effect from the DNle processor. The PC enters the scaler and then to the screen. Much less processing occurs on the PC VGA input.

Dynamic black and the Smooth Picture Actuator happen on the DMD board.

Hello all,
I hope someone can shed some light on my problem. I have had my 6768 for about a month now and last night when I fired it up it seemed to take a little longer than usual for the picture to start. In other words I turned it on and heard the tones and the lamp light was flashing for a bit and then the picture came up. I cycled the power on and off and that was it poof nothing now. The lamp light is continuously flashing. The lamp is actually on because I can see it on when I look behind the TV. I can hear what sounds like the color wheel spinning up but I never get the power up tones like before. In the past I think I have seen a slight flicker come and go. I have tried to unplug for a while but when I replug it goes back to the lamp flashing thing and the picture never comes up. I can see a slight lighting of the screen but no picture. I guess I’ll make a call to service now but fear that I’ll end up getting a yoyo that knows nothing about what he’s doing and end up worse off than before or end up with a lesser picture quality.
Any thoughts on this matter would be appreciated.

Thanks.

First, cycling the power switch on these TV's is not a good idea. It is always a good idea to let the TV completely shutdown before turning it back on. You can try unplugging the TV for 5 minutes and then see if it is reset. If not, call 1-800-Samsung for support.

I have read almost all the posts since this thread's inception. (what does that say about me??). Of course, I might have missed something...

As I said, I tried setting the values bigray mentions in his post and others seem to have corroborated. In my case, setting those values to OFF doesn't make a big difference to the PQ and does not remove audio lag.

Aaronwt has hinted that there are some other things I need to do in order to totally remove DNIE. I was merely trying to find out what those things are.... Besides, as someone else said - the search feature will not necessarily provide the answers because there are just too many posts on that particular topic.

Cheers.

Assuming you have a programmable remote with the service menu access discrete code...

Hit Info followed quickly by the Service Menu discrete. Select DNIe service menu item. Up arrow 4 times to DNIe On/Off. Select. (I believe most sets show DNIe On/Off as "Off" but it is not) Right arrow so DNIe On/Off is "On". Right arrow again so it is "Off" (should truly be off now). Hit the Menu button. Hit the Menu button again (you should be at the main service menu screen now). Hit the Service Menu discrete. You will see "Ageing" displayed. Hit the Service Menu discrete again. Enjoy.

* entering the service menu will reset your picture mode to Standard so you will need to switch to whatever picture mode you like to use. I believe any user modifications to the picture modes are also lost upon entering the service menu.

I have read almost all the posts since this thread's inception. (what does that say about me??). Of course, I might have missed something...

As I said, I tried setting the values bigray mentions in his post and others seem to have corroborated. In my case, setting those values to OFF doesn't make a big difference to the PQ and does not remove audio lag.

Aaronwt has hinted that there are some other things I need to do in order to totally remove DNIE. I was merely trying to find out what those things are.... Besides, as someone else said - the search feature will not necessarily provide the answers because there are just too many posts on that particular topic.

Cheers.

This was posted at Home theater Spot...hop eit helps

Hello all,

Recently, we've discovered a way to permanently disable DNIe and its negative floating black and excessive edge enhancement attributes on the current line of Samsung 1080p displays! Depending on what firmware version you have, these adjustments might have to be performed for every input used including antenna and cable. I've also found that on the component inputs this will need to be performed for 480i, 480p, 720p, and 1080i. BTW, if a cable HDMI, Component, etc.) gets disconnected you may have to perform this tweak again.

WARNING, I ASSUME NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE CAUSED BY ENTERING THE SERVICE MENU! USE EXTREME CAUTION AND WRITE DOWN ANY SETTINGS BEFORE MAKING ANY CHANGES!

1. Enter the service menu by pressing "mute, 1, 8, 2, power" within a second of one another while the TV is turned off.
2. Once in the service menu, use the arrow keys to go to the "DNIe" page and right click.
3. Once in the DNIe page, turn each of the following parameters in the first column to the "OFF" position.

SNI_PROC_CEA
SNI_PROC_CEP
SNI_PROC_DEP
SNI_PROC_DCE
SNI_PROC_CCS
SNI_PROC_BWS
SNI_PROC_PCC
SNI_PROC_WTE
SNI_PROC_CTE

That's it! No more DNIe!

Good luck and happy viewing..

Eliab

Assuming you have a programmable remote with the service menu access discrete code...

Hit Info followed quickly by the Service Menu discrete. Select DNIe service menu item. Up arrow 4 times to DNIe On/Off. Select. (I believe most sets show DNIe On/Off as "Off" but it is not) Right arrow so DNIe On/Off is "On". Right arrow again so it is "Off" (should truly be off now). Hit the Menu button. Hit the Menu button again (you should be at the main service menu screen now). Hit the Service Menu discrete. You will see "Ageing" displayed. Hit the Service Menu discrete again. Enjoy.

* entering the service menu will reset your picture mode to Standard so you will need to switch to whatever picture mode you like to use. I believe any user modifications to the picture modes are also lost upon entering the service menu.

Many thanks Goob! I don't have a programmable remote - I have been accessing the SM via the regular Mute-1-8-2-Power sequence. I never see the "Ageing" being displayed though when I am done - seems like you are saying that I have to use the above sequence even to get out of the SM.... Hmmm - I feel like a genius at this point. :-)

This was posted at Home theater Spot...hop eit helps

Hello all,

Recently, we've discovered a way to permanently disable DNIe and its negative floating black and excessive edge enhancement attributes on the current line of Samsung 1080p displays! Depending on what firmware version you have, these adjustments might have to be performed for every input used including antenna and cable. I've also found that on the component inputs this will need to be performed for 480i, 480p, 720p, and 1080i. BTW, if a cable HDMI, Component, etc.) gets disconnected you may have to perform this tweak again.

WARNING, I ASSUME NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE CAUSED BY ENTERING THE SERVICE MENU! USE EXTREME CAUTION AND WRITE DOWN ANY SETTINGS BEFORE MAKING ANY CHANGES!

1. Enter the service menu by pressing "mute, 1, 8, 2, power" within a second of one another while the TV is turned off.
2. Once in the service menu, use the arrow keys to go to the "DNIe" page and right click.
3. Once in the DNIe page, turn each of the following parameters in the first column to the "OFF" position.

SNI_PROC_CEA
SNI_PROC_CEP
SNI_PROC_DEP
SNI_PROC_DCE
SNI_PROC_CCS
SNI_PROC_BWS
SNI_PROC_PCC
SNI_PROC_WTE
SNI_PROC_CTE

That's it! No more DNIe!

Good luck and happy viewing..

Eliab


You rock Sampsonjw! :D I will try these tonight and report back!

Cheers.

This was posted at Home theater Spot...hop eit helps

Hello all,

Recently, we've discovered a way to permanently disable DNIe and its negative floating black and excessive edge enhancement attributes on the current line of Samsung 1080p displays! Depending on what firmware version you have, these adjustments might have to be performed for every input used including antenna and cable. I've also found that on the component inputs this will need to be performed for 480i, 480p, 720p, and 1080i. BTW, if a cable HDMI, Component, etc.) gets disconnected you may have to perform this tweak again.

WARNING, I ASSUME NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE CAUSED BY ENTERING THE SERVICE MENU! USE EXTREME CAUTION AND WRITE DOWN ANY SETTINGS BEFORE MAKING ANY CHANGES!

1. Enter the service menu by pressing "mute, 1, 8, 2, power" within a second of one another while the TV is turned off.
2. Once in the service menu, use the arrow keys to go to the "DNIe" page and right click.
3. Once in the DNIe page, turn each of the following parameters in the first column to the "OFF" position.

SNI_PROC_CEA
SNI_PROC_CEP
SNI_PROC_DEP
SNI_PROC_DCE
SNI_PROC_CCS
SNI_PROC_BWS
SNI_PROC_PCC
SNI_PROC_WTE
SNI_PROC_CTE

That's it! No more DNIe!

Good luck and happy viewing..

Eliab

I just turned off all the items listed. My previous setup had BWS, DEP and DCE turned off. I didn’t notice any picture changes from turning off the additional items but I wasn’t monitoring a test pattern, when the changes were made.
Turning off all these items does not appear to have any impact on video lag. I have my Felston set for a 110 ms. Lip sync is still improved with a 110 ms. audio delay.

Many thanks Goob! I don't have a programmable remote - I have been accessing the SM via the regular Mute-1-8-2-Power sequence. I never see the "Ageing" being displayed though when I am done - seems like you are saying that I have to use the above sequence even to get out of the SM.... Hmmm - I feel like a genius at this point. :-)

Yeah, the service menu discrete code is the only way to exit the service menu without switching off the tv. If the info in your last post works (the sampsonjw/Eliab post), then nm :)

You rock Sampsonjw! :D I will try these tonight and report back!

Cheers.



Glad to help. i hope it works for you. I have yet to try it, but i am having my 6168 calibrated on friday and Iwill let the calibrator do it. i'm not afraid to get into the SM as i have on this display , and others i have owned, but when he does it, he will be able to explain the subtle, or major changes that it will make to the picture. I can't wait to see what it looks like when he is all done with it :D

That is funny. I noticed lip synch lag when I first got my 6168, I have shut down the 3 settings and haven't noticed it since.

I am considering the purchase of the Samsung 42" 720p, and the 56" 1080p sets.............what are the know problems if any with these sets?

Are there geometry problems like pincushion or other distortions? If there is, can it be adjusted out?

Thanks.

I think I am going to buy a Harman Kardon 7300 my only question for all of you is is the 80ms audio delay long enough for these TVs? This is my only concern with this receiver.

6768 Owner

Edit: I think I will be fine with the Oppo just concerned with the set top box.

I think I am going to buy a Harman Kardon 7300 my only question for all of you is is the 80ms audio delay long enough for these TVs? This is my only concern with this receiver.

6768 Owner

Edit: I think I will be fine with the Oppo just concerned with the set top box.
80 ms is NOT enough. Expect something in the 100 ms - 150 ms range. Some components could even be higher. A few members have reported even longer delays on their OPPO players over DVI-HDMI.

I am considering the purchase of the Samsung 42" 720p, and the 56" 1080p sets.............what are the know problems if any with these sets?

Are there geometry problems like pincushion or other distortions? If there is, can it be adjusted out?

Thanks.
Go with the 46" instead of the 42", if you can step up to it. For more info on the difference between the 42" and 46", check out this link: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4954868#post4954868

80 ms is NOT enough. Expect something in the 100 ms - 150 ms range. Some components could even be higher. A few members have reported even longer delays on their OPPO players over DVI-HDMI.


The Oppo has its own delay so the two would add to 150ms. I think they are disontinuing HK7300 it is not in their new broshure and the price is very good for this receiver. The only problem may be the STB, I watch my locals over an antenna.

I have been reading this thread since I thought I had decided to buy the Samsung HL-R6168W. By now, I am thoroughly confused.

I have read several articles on the thread. I haven't read all of them, I couldn't. This is what I understand.

Great picture quality, but...

There may be a video lag. It may be in the source. May be it's in the TV, and it could change for every source. Turning DNIe off may help, but it won't be sticky. However you can make it sticky if you have some special remote and are willing to go in to service menu at your own risk. Or you could use a Felston, but that may not work as the delay can vary per channel.

It doesn't have a respectable (?) 1080p input. But it may or may not matter.

The TV might be throwing half of the 1080i lines away. No one knows as the article in question did not mention the model names.

Oh, and that DNIe thingy above, you may want to turn it off irrespective of video lag because it actually makes the image worse.

(There were also some DOA or other odd problem reported. But I will probably go for extended warranty and not let these things bother me)

What I am looking for is around 60" TV with 1080 horizontal lines that I can buy and use without much hassle or headaches. If 6168 is not the one, I will have to go for 720p. And for my viewing distance (around 8 feet), I won't go for anything bigger than 50" for 720p.

It would be great if someone could consolidate all the knowledge in this 250-pages-so-far thread in an FAQ (not an original idea, I know). That way people like me will know exactly what they are getting into.

In return I will...

I guess all I can do in return is share my experience and possibly contribute to the FAQ.

The Oppo has its own delay so the two would add to 150ms. I think they are disontinuing HK7300 it is not in their new broshure and the price is very good for this receiver. The only problem may be the STB, I watch my locals over an antenna.
I wouldn't rely on that logic ... it may work, but you should search this thread for comments by OPPO owners before placing your order.

FWIW, I have a Mits 73727 and need a delay of ~ 120 msec (with the Felston delay box) with Comcast input in order sync audio and video precisely. So this is a feature of all dlp's (and perhaps others too).

FWIW, I have a Mits 73727 and need a delay of ~ 120 msec (with the Felston delay box) with Comcast input in order sync audio and video precisely. So this is a feature of all dlp's (and perhaps others too).

That's about where I have my Felston set for the 6412 III also (actually in the 106 - 116 ms range).

I could by the HK and add the felston if required an it would still be much cheaper than the comparable Rotel.

FWIW, I have a Mits 73727 and need a delay of ~ 120 msec (with the Felston delay box) with Comcast input in order sync audio and video precisely. So this is a feature of all dlp's (and perhaps others too).


Hi I have Comcast in N.J. and I have zero audio video synch problems.
Also have The Oppo . When I first hooked it up , it had major audio/video lag.
Fooling around with the remote I hit speed search forward, than backward and have never had a lag issue since.

I seem to be in the minority in this forum, but I believe sync issues are more often related to the broadcasters, The STB , the upconverting DVD players etc.

In The last 5 years I have owned a Hitachi HD ready CRT projection, a Samsung 720p DLP, and now a Samsung 1080p DLP. Besides the brief Oppo incident, perhaps twice in 5 years I have seen/heard a lag problem on my display via my set top box.
Both times I rebooted the box and the audio/video was back in sync.

Remember guys alot of broadcasters are novices at trying to send a high definition video signal and a dolby digital audio signal.

Now Im not saying its never the display, what I am saying though is that it is not always the display. Sometimes you just have to consider the "source"

Hi I have Comcast in N.J. and I have zero audio video synch problems.
Also have The Oppo . When I first hooked it up , it had major audio/video lag.
Fooling around with the remote I hit speed search forward, than backward and have never had a lag issue since.

I seem to be in the minority in this forum, but I believe sync issues are more often related to the broadcasters, The STB , the upconverting DVD players etc.

In The last 5 years I have owned a Hitachi HD ready CRT projection, a Samsung 720p DLP, and now a Samsung 1080p DLP. Besides the brief Oppo incident, perhaps twice in 5 years I have seen/heard a lag problem on my display via my set top box.
Both times I rebooted the box and the audio/video was back in sync.

Remember guys alot of broadcasters are novices at trying to send a high definition video signal and a dolby digital audio signal.

Now Im not saying its never the display, what I am saying though is that it is not always the display. Sometimes you just have to consider the "source"

Whether its the display or the source, one needs to correct it to avoid the annoyance of audio and video out of sync, either with an AVR that does the job, or something like the Felston audio delay box.

You rock Sampsonjw! :D I will try these tonight and report back!

Cheers.

Ok - here is some prelim info. I changed all the above said values to OFF. Currently, there is no audio lag watching CSI NY from my Moto 6412 III STB via Component 1. The audio is connected via Optical to my AVR. But I didn't have much audio lag from my STB anyway.

I do see one striking difference after changing all these values to OFF. While watching fast moving scenes (like those unique scene/picture changes and quick zoom-ins on CSI), I used to see the picture break up into tiny little squares. I even complained about them on this forum and was told that it was due to "compression artifacts". However, after turning all those parameters to OFF, the "tiny square" phenomenon is almost GONE! I do catch it but it is very minimized. So thats a good thing!

Apart from that the PQ is amazing but it was amazing even before. So, I don't know what turning off DNIE is doing, if anything. :) I really need some test patterns to see the difference.

I will try the same experiment with my Oppo on HDMI1 when I get a chance. Pretty satisfied for now.

Assuming you have a programmable remote with the service menu access discrete code...


GTN... I, too, have a Harmony 880. And following your post to another owner, i called Logitech and had them transfer your service menu code, as well as standard, movie and dynamic picture settings to my remote. When i got home last night and updated my remote, the picture settings worked, but the service menu button did nothing. Is it possible it doesn't work because i have a 6178, not a 6168? Or do i have to start with tv turned off?

Thanks for any tips!

GTN... I, too, have a Harmony 880. And following your post to another owner, i called Logitech and had them transfer your service menu code, as well as standard, movie and dynamic picture settings to my remote. When i got home last night and updated my remote, the picture settings worked, but the service menu button did nothing. Is it possible it doesn't work because i have a 6178, not a 6168? Or do i have to start with tv turned off?

Thanks for any tips!

You need to hit "Info" then the Service Menu button in fairly quick succession. I have the Service Menu button programmed to the "Exit" hard button on the remote when in TV device mode. So for me, I hit "Info" then "Exit" to enter the service menu. Then "Exit" to leave the service menu, then "Exit" again to clear the "Aging" that gets displayed.

You need to hit "Info" then the Service Menu button in fairly quick succession. I have the Server Menu button programmed to the "Exit" hard button on the remote when in TV device mode. So for me, I hit "Info" then "Exit" to enter the service menu. Then "Exit" to leave the service menu, then "Exit" again to clear the "Aging" that gets displayed.


Thanks! I'll give it a try when i get home tonight....

I just received my HLR5078W today. The top box was crushed in a small amount, but I didn't notice anything when they unpacked it. Upon more careful inspection, I see some cracks in the upper left corner of the outer housing. It also looks like part of the gray plastic is smushed in a minor amount. Nothing is wrong with the screen or picture and the cracks are not very noticeable. I'm wondering if this is really damage due to impact or a manufacturing issue.

Should I go through the hassle of getting a replacement? I'm concerned that a possible impact may have future affects on the set.

Thanks!

You need to hit "Info" then the Service Menu button in fairly quick succession. I have the Service Menu button programmed to the "Exit" hard button on the remote when in TV device mode. So for me, I hit "Info" then "Exit" to enter the service menu. Then "Exit" to leave the service menu, then "Exit" again to clear the "Aging" that gets displayed.
Goob, jshore -- when calling Logitech, how to I refer to "GoobTheNoobs" 880 settings (name or something)? Or do I just tell them I want the service menu codes for the Samsung DLP?

BTW, is it becoming a consensus that its equivalent to just turn off the individual settings mentioned on this board? If so, I won't go through the hassle.

Thanks!

Ok - here is some prelim info. I changed all the above said values to OFF. Currently, there is no audio lag watching CSI NY from my Moto 6412 III STB via Component 1. The audio is connected via Optical to my AVR. But I didn't have much audio lag from my STB anyway.

I do see one striking difference after changing all these values to OFF. While watching fast moving scenes (like those unique scene/picture changes and quick zoom-ins on CSI), I used to see the picture break up into tiny little squares. I even complained about them on this forum and was told that it was due to "compression artifacts". However, after turning all those parameters to OFF, the "tiny square" phenomenon is almost GONE! I do catch it but it is very minimized. So thats a good thing!

Apart from that the PQ is amazing but it was amazing even before. So, I don't know what turning off DNIE is doing, if anything. :) I really need some test patterns to see the difference.

I will try the same experiment with my Oppo on HDMI1 when I get a chance. Pretty satisfied for now.

The amount of compression artifacts (squares) can vary from program to program. So the improvement may not be due to the change of the values. However, if you toggle the values and can see a difference within the same program, the squares are probably not compression artifacts. I'll be interested in your findings.

I seem to be in the minority in this forum, but I believe sync issues are more often related to the broadcasters, The STB , the upconverting DVD players etc.

Remember guys alot of broadcasters are novices at trying to send a high definition video signal and a dolby digital audio signal.

Now Im not saying its never the display, what I am saying though is that it is not always the display. Sometimes you just have to consider the "source"

Very true. I work in production and I can promise you that some lip sync problems are created at the source and have nothing to do with your set. While lip sync is checked at the output of the truck at a live broadcast, for example, wireless RF cameras and the First and 10 football field markers cause different delays that have to be adjusted. Sometimes they aren't adjusted correctly. Also, transmission problems crop up.

Not only is this new to the broadcasters but also new to the equipment manufacturers. Sometimes, the equipment simply doesn't work as expected.

The amount of compression artifacts (squares) can vary from program to program. So the improvement may not be due to the change of the values. However, if you toggle the values and can see a difference within the same program, the squares are probably not compression artifacts. I'll be interested in your findings.

What I am saying is that I was watching CSI NY before I started making the tweaks and I was seeing the darned squares and it was very distracting. I made the tweaks while still watching the program and after I was done, I wasn't seeing the squares as much any more. I did NOT go back to the beginning of the program to verify that the squares I saw before were not appearing but this wasn't warranted because I see (saw) squares regularly on CSI NY.

This leads me to believe that the tweaks helped me get rid of the squares and they were obviously caused by DNIE (or edge enhancements or whatever) and not by compression artifacts.

Ok - here is some prelim info. I changed all the above said values to OFF. Currently, there is no audio lag watching CSI NY from my Moto 6412 III STB via Component 1. The audio is connected via Optical to my AVR. But I didn't have much audio lag from my STB anyway.

I do see one striking difference after changing all these values to OFF. While watching fast moving scenes (like those unique scene/picture changes and quick zoom-ins on CSI), I used to see the picture break up into tiny little squares. I even complained about them on this forum and was told that it was due to "compression artifacts". However, after turning all those parameters to OFF, the "tiny square" phenomenon is almost GONE! I do catch it but it is very minimized. So thats a good thing!

Apart from that the PQ is amazing but it was amazing even before. So, I don't know what turning off DNIE is doing, if anything. :) I really need some test patterns to see the difference.

I will try the same experiment with my Oppo on HDMI1 when I get a chance. Pretty satisfied for now.

Further update: I made the same changes to HDMI1 and am watching Madagascar and the lip-synch problem does NOT go away. Its a little bit better but not eliminated completely.

FYI - I am watching the "special" section where the stars are talking about their voice-overs and I can clearly tell the audio lag.

PQ still great. :)

I'm wondering if it is media based.
I haven't seen lip synch since I got the TV, then I watched Deuce Bigalow 2 (don't ask) and the lip synch was horrible, I had to switch to my PC via VGA.

First, cycling the power switch on these TV's is not a good idea. It is always a good idea to let the TV completely shutdown before turning it back on. You can try unplugging the TV for 5 minutes and then see if it is reset. If not, call 1-800-Samsung for support.

As a follow up on my HLR 6768 TV breaking, I have called Samsung CS and was told they would have a service tech call within 3 days. Just to follow up I decided to call back today to ask a few more questions.
They had an unauthorized TV shop listed local to my area which was not acceptable to me. I refuse to have an unauthorized repair tech monkeying with my new set. I was told that they have a special arrangement where they pay the authorized guy his travel time to get here and each time I call it adds another 3 days to the counter.

I purchased during the TVauthority power buy and I’m going to be placing a call to them. I’m not real happy about this with the TV dead after 1 month use. It’s going to be hard for me to recommend Samsung in the future. Maybe my case is the rare one who knows.

As to the replies to my power cycling the set, I find it hard to believe that just turning off the power right after the picture came up was enough to render my TV useless. My guess is that it was on it’s way out from the start. If these TV’s are that picky then someone needs to redesign these sets.

One question is do you think reseating the lamp in the socket might help, seems like I remember someones set doing this and they reseated the lamp and it worked again.

My symptoms again are on powering on, the Lamp light blinks, the lamp powers up, the color whell spins up and at the point where you would normally hear the tones chime the Lamp light still blinks. After waiting for a bit the set eventually powers itself down. So wash rinse repeat and the same results.

I just received my HLR5078W today. The top box was crushed in a small amount, but I didn't notice anything when they unpacked it. Upon more careful inspection, I see some cracks in the upper left corner of the outer housing. It also looks like part of the gray plastic is smushed in a minor amount. Nothing is wrong with the screen or picture and the cracks are not very noticeable. I'm wondering if this is really damage due to impact or a manufacturing issue.

Should I go through the hassle of getting a replacement? I'm concerned that a possible impact may have future affects on the set.

Thanks!
Yes, you should get a replacement. Samsung does not manufacture sets with damage. The delivery people did the damage and they should come get it and bring you a new one. You are right to be concerned about what effect the impact might have in the future. Get rid of it.

Clean power is a must!

They are doing major work in my neighborhood and I've had the power cut off 4-5 times a week. I was afraid of damage to my set and added a battery back up power filter:

AMERICAN POWER CONVERSION
Back-UPS ES 725 Broadband

http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/category.aspx?c=us&category_id=4116&cs=19&l=en&s=dhs

It the size of a shoe box and has a big lead acid battery inside. My set and receiver are plugged into the battery back up slots. It's about $90 and well worth to protect my $4K investment.

To anyone with the HL-R5688W:

How's the audio lag issue? I thought I read somewhere that the pedestal models weren't affected by it as much as the regular sets but that just seems silly. Just wanted to check before I take the plunge.

To anyone with the HL-R5688W:

How's the audio lag issue? I thought I read somewhere that the pedestal models weren't affected by it as much as the regular sets but that just seems silly. Just wanted to check before I take the plunge.
I have this set and there is no audio lag at all, but I do use the set's own built in speakers, so if you are going to use a receiver, it may exhibit lag, I don't know about that set up.

I have this set and there is no audio lag at all, but I do use the set's own built in speakers, so if you are going to use a receiver, it may exhibit lag, I don't know about that set up.

Well I would hope there is no lag with the built in speakers but I will be using a separate receiver and speakers. ;)

I just received my HLR5078W today. The top box was crushed in a small amount, but I didn't notice anything when they unpacked it. Upon more careful inspection, I see some cracks in the upper left corner of the outer housing. It also looks like part of the gray plastic is smushed in a minor amount. Nothing is wrong with the screen or picture and the cracks are not very noticeable. I'm wondering if this is really damage due to impact or a manufacturing issue.

Should I go through the hassle of getting a replacement? I'm concerned that a possible impact may have future affects on the set.

Thanks!


Yes, I'd get it replaced. You didn't pay for a damaged set. Granted how secure OEM packaging generally is, this thing must have had ROUGH treatment in transit.

Well I would hope there is no lag with the built in speakers but I will be using a separate receiver and speakers. ;)

Most folks see video lagging audio. Folks with the Felston audio delay device mention using upto 120ms or so of delay to offset it. The lag is seen both on STB and DVD.

But there is no lag when viewing material over computer VGA connection.

Goob, jshore -- when calling Logitech, how to I refer to "GoobTheNoobs" 880 settings (name or something)? Or do I just tell them I want the service menu codes for the Samsung DLP?

BTW, is it becoming a consensus that its equivalent to just turn off the individual settings mentioned on this board? If so, I won't go through the hassle.

Thanks!

You can ask them to copy the codes from the HL-R6168W device config for Logitech user "Goob The Noob". (note the spaces in my Logitech name)

Most folks see video lagging audio. Folks with the Felston audio delay device mention using upto 120ms or so of delay to offset it. The lag is seen both on STB and DVD.

But there is no lag when viewing material over computer VGA connection.

Yes. The PC HD15 VGA enters the set AFTER the DNle circuit. There may be a little delay due to the ADC but the audio goes through a DAC so the timing may be the same.

You can ask them to copy the codes from the HL-R6168W device config for Logitech user "Goob The Noob". (note the spaces in my Logitech name)
Will the same codes work for a 5078?

Just FYI, I bought my 5678 from TVA. It took three deliveries before I got a set that wasn't damaged in shipping. The boxes are large and heavy. It takes two people to lift and move them. I think the damaged ones are from people that try and slide them or move them around. I was annoyed at TVA for not being involved since I paid them. The shipper did a great job. This took over a month though to get it right. In the future always be sure to clearly mark the damage on the slip before you sign for the delivery. It could be a problem if you don't. The shipper never mentioned or marked the two sets were damaged when they arrived in Boston for local delivery. Each person just passed the buck. You would think someone along the delivery chain would make an effort and mark it instead of trying to protect the person that damaged it? For these high ticket items I wouldn't take a delivery unless the box was perfect. The first box had all of the Styrofoam in crumbs. I have less crumbs when I eat toast. The set was clearly dropped from several feet to do that. The second set was smashed in the middle like a fork lift backed into it or something and the boxes' handles were broken. I'm not fussy but you should have a delivery as good or better than the big guys.

To anyone with the HL-R5688W:

How's the audio lag issue? I thought I read somewhere that the pedestal models weren't affected by it as much as the regular sets but that just seems silly. Just wanted to check before I take the plunge.

The only lag Ive ever seen was in HDNet w/external speakers and that was on a HTS.My Teac AVR w/50ms takes care of that problem.I have never seen it on my HTPC.I have D*DVR Tivo.Ive had my set for about 4 months with no problems.

Will the same codes work for a 5078?

Yes they should.

Most folks see video lagging audio. Folks with the Felston audio delay device mention using upto 120ms or so of delay to offset it. The lag is seen both on STB and DVD.

But there is no lag when viewing material over computer VGA connection.

:(

Well I will be using both a STB and a DVD, but don't have the cash for a Felston and the TV. Guess I'll have to settle for a 50PHD8UK.

To anyone with the HL-R5688W:

How's the audio lag issue? I thought I read somewhere that the pedestal models weren't affected by it as much as the regular sets but that just seems silly. Just wanted to check before I take the plunge.


I just got a 6168 two days ago. I am still in the process of setting up my MX700 for it so I have not yet tested all the inputs.

So far I have had NO real lag issues on the following:

My Oppo 971 DVD player - after setting the audio delay on the Oppo to between 10-30 MS depending on the movie- shows no lag connected to the Sammy's HDMI2 input (haven't tried it on any other inputs). No lag outputting it on 480P, 720P or 1080i to the TV. I have the Oppo's video signal going into the Sammy's HDMI2 input via a DVI-to-HDMI cable. The Oppo's audio signal is being output directly via and optical digital cable to my Yamaha RXV1300 A/V receiver.

DirectTV DVR (RCA model # DVR80) - this is a Standard definition DVR. (still waiting for DirecTV to deliver the HD-DVR.....). The existing DVR has no digital video or component out so the video signal is going to the Sammy's SVIDEO1 input. The DVR's audio is going to my Yamaha receiver via an optical digital cable.

Over The Air antenna - local Miami HD broadcasts via a crappy rabbit ear UHF/VHF antenna. I get all but 2 of the 14 local HD OTA channels. The TV's audio output goes to my Yamaha receiver via a digital optical cable. Again, no lag issues at all.

I have yet to tweak the picture settings much but even on the various default modes (Standard, Movie, etc) the PQ is excellent on good quality feeds (i.e. DVD, HD). SD broadcasts are decent but not great because like most of these 1080p displays the comparatively crappy flaws in SD signals are VERY much more noticable than with a standard TV.

So far I am 100% happy with the display.

Next step will be the PC to VGA input. Gonna play some Battlefield 2 and other games. I'll post on any lag issues (if any) then.

I know this might be off the current topic but my TV is dead and Im trying to get a handle on what the problem is. As my previous posts have said that the set sort of hung on the Lamp standby stage and no picture ever shows. The lamp is actually on and the color wheel is spinning.
So tonight I pulled the lamp holder and unplugged the ballast and replugged and put the lamp back in. I plugged it in and viola it wokred again................for 30 min, now its doing the same thing. Just before it died i saw a nice display of lines and colors then green then nothing. Just wondering if anyone here has any idea what this could be.
As far as getting service, I live in Central FL near orlando and an hour away from tampa. The service guy I talked to today refused to come here to check my set as it was to far for him to drive. So later I get this call from Jims TV and he says he's comin to fix my microwave, haha. I said" my microwave is fine it's my DLP TV thats broken" he said "DLT" I said "NO DLP and I think it needs a new light engine" he said "christmas lights?"
You gotta be kidding me right. The guy says hes working out of the back of his house. So I immediately phoned Samsung about this and someone is supposed to call me tomorrow to get an authorized tech that knows whats going on.
I got my fingers crossed but the bottom line is you really don't have a warranty if there's not an authorized dealer in your town.

So after reading this thread from the beginning (actually starting with the CES reports in Jan) I figured production should have major bugs worked out by now. Oh well.

I got my 5668 yesterday from TVA; box looked great and the set fired right up looking wonderful. Of course I wouldn't be posting yet if all was rosy so...

I noticed a darkish smudge or bruise on the upper left side of the screen which is really apparent on solid colors with motion (like football fields and basketball courts). So I was all set to call customer support about that when...

My wife calls me at work and said the set has shut itself off three times this morning and the 3 lights on the power button are all blinking. Now it's definately time to call.

The TVA guys have been fantastic so far, and calling their support guys was no exception. He called Samsung, called me back, and the local authorized support guy is supposed to call me in the next day or two.

When I got home tonight, I decided to put it through the paces myself, and what I found was interesting. Right before it shuts down (the last 30 sec or so of life) the colors start to get out of sync as if the color wheel is getting lost in it's position. You can hear the motor struggling to compensate and the colors get all whacky on the screen. The screen then goes black and (what I think is) the color wheel motor spins up to a speed that sounds at least 1.5x normal. It's quite loud and high pitched. It sounds like a hard drive starting up that just can't quite get up to speed. If I can find a microphone around here I'll record it and post an mp3.

Firing up the set again right away it works fine, but lasts less than 3-5 minutes. One time it actually reset itself, gave the shut down tones and then start up tones again. I can feel the fan blowing out by the lamp and it doesn't seem to be overheating (set is not enclosed).

Is this like anyone elses' infant-mortality experience with the bulb/light-engine failures?

Probably a stupid question, but is the 5688 any louder than the other models? I picked up a display model from a store going out of business for a price too good to pass up. They told me the bulb was bad. No biggie, I figured. But when I plug this thing in and try to fire it up it makes a fairly loud noise like a hard drive spinning up. No light, as expected, but this racket has me thinking it has bigger issues.

I already have a 6168 in the family room and it doesn't make anything like this noise when starting up.

My 5668 is quiet until it freaks out. I actually was nervous that it would be louder with things spinning at 10k+ RPM inside + fans (TiVo != quiet).

I'm wondering if you're hearing what I am hearing when it goes berserk and shuts down, because when it's doing that, it makes quite a racket. Yours just never makes it to the 'functional' stage and just goes straight to ..er...disfunctional?

I managed to record it in action, but I can't post the URL until I have five posts. That'll teach me to lurk I guess.

If you're feeling brave you can try getting it at tannernet dt com slash DNI_not_quite.mp3 but I'll repost the URL when I'm "mature" enough :D

OMG! That sounds terrible!

Bingo. Same sound I'm hearing. But I only paid $1k for the set and it's still under warranty. Cosmetically it's perfect. Guess it's time to call Samsung since it sounds like it's more than just the lamp.

Probably a stupid question, but is the 5688 any louder than the other models? I picked up a display model from a store going out of business for a price too good to pass up. They told me the bulb was bad. No biggie, I figured. But when I plug this thing in and try to fire it up it makes a fairly loud noise like a hard drive spinning up. No light, as expected, but this racket has me thinking it has bigger issues.

I already have a 6168 in the family room and it doesn't make anything like this noise when starting up.
The 5688 doesn't make any noise if it's working correctly. So something else is wrong as you figured.

I managed to record it in action, but I can't post the URL until I have five posts. That'll teach me to lurk I guess.

If you're feeling brave you can try getting it at tannernet dt com slash DNI_not_quite.mp3 but I'll repost the URL when I'm "mature" enough :D


Jesus, that sounds like a rotary tool.

Oh here's the link for you Stanner sound clip of doom (http://www.tannernet.com/DNI_not_quite.mp3) :)

Clean power is a must!
AMERICAN POWER CONVERSION
Back-UPS ES 725 Broadband


Have you seen any problems with square-wave power since that UPS does not have a sine-wave output?

Have you seen any problems with square-wave power since that UPS does not have a sine-wave output?
ohhh no.....Videopart.......the master of dissinformation.

For all forum users......in this case.......CONSIDER THE SOURCE!

I have this set and there is no audio lag at all, but I do use the set's own built in speakers, so if you are going to use a receiver, it may exhibit lag, I don't know about that set up.

If you're not a total audiophile, this solution worked for me: Connect all the components to the TV, turn off the internal speakers, play the TV audio out to the receiver. Absolutely no lag problems (which I saw the moment I got the set when I had the DVD sound going to the receiver). It's not full digital DTS or whatever but it sounds more than good enough to my untrained ears. It's also less complicated than having to switch receiver inputs for each component.

If you're not a total audiophile, this solution worked for me: Connect all the components to the TV, turn off the internal speakers, play the TV audio out to the receiver. Absolutely no lag problems (which I saw the moment I got the set when I had the DVD sound going to the receiver). It's not full digital DTS or whatever but it sounds more than good enough to my untrained ears. It's also less complicated than having to switch receiver inputs for each component.


If you are satisfied with this, thats fine. However, you are missing out on DD/DTS 5.1 surround sound which can really magnify the theater effect especially while watching movies. If you already have a receiver and a surround setup, why wouldn't you use it?

There are some other ways to get rid of the lag:

1) Use a computer to play your DVDs (you need a reasonably powerful PC and Graphics card and a good sound card). Use the VGA port to connect your TV to the computer.

2) Buy the Felston audio delay device for 200 bucks.

3) Buy an AVR that has delay on a per input basis. Obviously this is only for people who are either building a Home Theater or for those considering upgrading their AVRs.

4) The Oppo DVD player has upto 60 ms delay which helps a little. They promise to look into a f/w update to increase the delay upto a 100 ms.

So using the tv's audio out loses the Dolby Digital signal processing? I thought it had digital audio (optical) output? Does it have digital audio (optical) input for one or more sources also? I would assume so.

I'm having trouble finding many impressions on the HL-R5688W (pedestal) model. That's the one I'm leaning toward the most, but I'd like to see more feedback before I take the plunge.

So using the tv's audio out loses the Dolby Digital signal processing? I thought it had digital audio (optical) output? Does it have digital audio (optical) input for one or more sources also? I would assume so.

I'm having trouble finding many impressions on the HL-R5688W (pedestal) model. That's the one I'm leaning toward the most, but I'd like to see more feedback before I take the plunge.

TV's optical out only gives you 5.1 if the antenna/cable is connected directly to the TV without any STBs in the middle. For everyhing else, you only DD 2.0

If you are satisfied with this, thats fine. However, you are missing out on DD/DTS 5.1 surround sound which can really magnify the theater effect especially while watching movies. If you already have a receiver and a surround setup, why wouldn't you use it?

There are some other ways to get rid of the lag:

1) Use a computer to play your DVDs (you need a reasonably powerful PC and Graphics card and a good sound card). Use the VGA port to connect your TV to the computer.

2) Buy the Felston audio delay device for 200 bucks.

3) Buy an AVR that has delay on a per input basis. Obviously this is only for people who are either building a Home Theater or for those considering upgrading their AVRs.

4) The Oppo DVD player has upto 60 ms delay which helps a little. They promise to look into a f/w update to increase the delay upto a 100 ms.

I have to amend my post from last night. I did find a DVD that had considerable lip sync error that the Oppo's delay system could not correct satisfactorily. It was Queen Live at Wembley Stadium. I spent time researching the whole lip sync issue and its NOT limited to the Samsungs. The more complex video processing becomes, the more lip sync error will be potentially noticeable. This is a "dirty little secret" that the major manufacturer's do not like to talk about.

For more info on lip sync errors see THIS SITE (http://www.lipfix.com/lip_sync_error_.html) and HERE (http://lipfix.com/technical_details.html)

I went ahead and ordered the Felston DD540 audio delay device today. Sooner or later there will be other DVDs or other audio sources that present this problem.

From what I have read the beauty of the Felston is the ability to adjust the delay "on the fly" with either preset steps or individual milliseconds at a time using a remote. Also the digital audio signal is only delayed, it is not otherwise altered so there is ZERO loss of the original sound signal's quality.

Oh, at the manufacturer's website (http://www.felston.com/dd540/remotes/index.htm) they even make available discrete codes for several major brand's of universal remotes. The discrete codes are more powerful and flexible than just using a learning feature using the remote.

So using the tv's audio out loses the Dolby Digital signal processing? I thought it had digital audio (optical) output? Does it have digital audio (optical) input for one or more sources also? I would assume so.

I'm having trouble finding many impressions on the HL-R5688W (pedestal) model. That's the one I'm leaning toward the most, but I'd like to see more feedback before I take the plunge.
I have the 5688w and find it pretty much mirrors the other Samsung 1080s which are covered extensively on this forum. What specific things are you looking for info on? It works well, has a beautiful picture on HD feeds, does a good job of upconverting digital channels, standard definition channels are grainy and annoying to watch, DVDs are excellent to average, depending on the movie and how old it is, etc. As mentioned before, I use the built in speakers and they are decent but I'm sure a sound system is better if you overcome the lag. Somewhere I saw that maybe the screen on the 5688 is slightly different as much of the TV's machinery is in the pedestal so it may be designed slightly differently to accomodate that. We chose it because we thought the picture was better than on the standard sets. Hope that helps.

I have the 5688w and find it pretty much mirrors the other Samsung 1080s which are covered extensively on this forum. What specific things are you looking for info on? It works well, has a beautiful picture on HD feeds, does a good job of upconverting digital channels, standard definition channels are grainy and annoying to watch, DVDs are excellent to average, depending on the movie and how old it is, etc. As mentioned before, I use the built in speakers and they are decent but I'm sure a sound system is better if you overcome the lag. Somewhere I saw that maybe the screen on the 5688 is slightly different as much of the TV's machinery is in the pedestal so it may be designed slightly differently to accomodate that. We chose it because we thought the picture was better than on the standard sets. Hope that helps.

Thanks for giving your thoughts on this particular model, they certainly help to solidify my decision on this one. I'm a little worried about the grainy standard definition channels, although I know that's a problem with any high-def tv. Do you use a cable box for all channels, or do you have your cable split with high-def on the box and standard signal going straight into the tv's RF input? I've heard that helps a little bit. I'm just concerned because some of the channels my wife likes to watch are still standard def, and I don't want to buy a new tv and have her hate it because her channels are unwatchable all of a sudden. Although maybe if they're at least on digital cable they'll be upconverted and look okay...?

Thanks for giving your thoughts on this particular model, they certainly help to solidify my decision on this one. I'm a little worried about the grainy standard definition channels, although I know that's a problem with any high-def tv. Do you use a cable box for all channels, or do you have your cable split with high-def on the box and standard signal going straight into the tv's RF input? I've heard that helps a little bit. I'm just concerned because some of the channels my wife likes to watch are still standard def, and I don't want to buy a new tv and have her hate it because her channels are unwatchable all of a sudden. Although maybe if they're at least on digital cable they'll be upconverted and look okay...?

I have an HLR 6168 and the analog channels are very watchable - not grainy at all. Your idea of splitting the cable into STB and TV will definitely make the analog very watchable. However, if you are planning to get service from Comcast - they give you the Motorola 6412 Mark III HD-DVR (which I have) and this does analog very well. If you have this STB, there is no need whatsoever to split the cable into STB and TV. 6412 Mark II was definitely bad when it came to analog channels. I can't say about STBs/DVRs from other manufacturers/cable companies.

Good luck.

Does anyone have any trouble with the HLR5087W pedestal model with sound lag, or other issues???