I have an HLR 6168 and the analog channels are very watchable - not grainy at all. Your idea of splitting the cable into STB and TV will definitely make the analog very watchable. However, if you are planning to get service from Comcast - they give you the Motorola 6412 Mark III HD-DVR (which I have) and this does analog very well. If you have this STB, there is no need whatsoever to split the cable into STB and TV. 6412 Mark II was definitely bad when it came to analog channels. I can't say about STBs/DVRs from other manufacturers/cable companies.

Good luck.

Thank you, that's good info. We do have Comcast digital cable, so we'd be getting Comcast HD. I want to get the STB with DVR from them. I'm glad to hear it might not be an issue. I'm getting more and more excited about the idea of this tv.

I don't suppose anyone with a 5688 or other Samsung 1080p has done any gaming and can comment on possible ghosting or audio lag issues? I have an Xbox 360 that I plan to play extensively on the new tv.

You gotta be kidding me right. The guy says hes working out of the back of his house. So I immediately phoned Samsung about this and someone is supposed to call me tomorrow to get an authorized tech that knows whats going on.
I got my fingers crossed but the bottom line is you really don't have a warranty if there's not an authorized dealer in your town.


Yikes. Johnny I'm in Lake Mary. I'm thinking of getting the 56 or the 61. Where did you get your set?

Thank you, that's good info. We do have Comcast digital cable, so we'd be getting Comcast HD. I want to get the STB with DVR from them. I'm glad to hear it might not be an issue. I'm getting more and more excited about the idea of this tv.

I don't suppose anyone with a 5688 or other Samsung 1080p has done any gaming and can comment on possible ghosting or audio lag issues? I have an Xbox 360 that I plan to play extensively on the new tv.

You are welcome.

However, if you are going to be playing games on this TV with the XBOX, you need to be aware that there MIGHT be a lag problem and this seems to be affect real-time action games the most (obviously). Folks have reported that using the VGA connection solves that problem. You can probably do a search on XBOX360 and you will get a couple of useful hits (all posts in the last couple of weeks).

Thanks, I was a little worried about that. I do already have the VGA connector, however. That's one of the plusses for this tv as far as I'm concerned, the VGA input option. I'll see if I can find anyone with gaming issues to verify.

Yes, the VGA connector is connected after the main processing chip and the DNle that may be the cause of some delay.

Thank you, that's good info. We do have Comcast digital cable, so we'd be getting Comcast HD. I want to get the STB with DVR from them. I'm glad to hear it might not be an issue. I'm getting more and more excited about the idea of this tv.

I don't suppose anyone with a 5688 or other Samsung 1080p has done any gaming and can comment on possible ghosting or audio lag issues? I have an Xbox 360 that I plan to play extensively on the new tv.

I am very pleased with my 88.The SD are not bad at all.I have Direct Tv w/HMDI hooked up.The only audio lag w/external speakers was HDNet.Only channel I have seen with lag.And I watch countless stations.I dont have gaming as of yet,come on Santa.But i use my puter as my dvd player and never had any lag issues.I love the fact if I need to change or add a connections,it is very excessable.And the TR85 stand hides all my cables from view.Im sure this decision will go beyound your expectations.

"Yikes. Johnny I'm in Lake Mary. I'm thinking of getting the 56 or the 61. Where did you get your set? "

Johnny and ][udson, Iam a newbie in Orlando, shopping for a Samsung 1080p set (50 or 56") but these issues with audio, standard channel grainy (Brighthouse) and now getting set repair service in the Orlando area has me really worried about moving forward with a purchase on this make..
ards
How was Brighthouse/Time Warner to deal with in getting your cable up to quality standards ?

I have the HL-R6168W and an Xbox 360 with both component and VGA cable. I am experimenting with my HDTV Component Cables and my VGA cable with my X360 (I just got it back from MSFT….it was broken from launch…..they replaced it with a new one).

I now have the VGA cables hooked up, and everything set in the dashboard, but the picture is super bright, colors are washed out and pale…..something is wrong. It doesn’t look nearly as good as the component cables. Anybody know what is going on? Even changing the picture settings on the HDTV does not seem to be the problem….it seems as though it’s the output from the X360, but I can’t say for sure

I’ve tried the four highest resolutions offered for the VGA cable in the X360 dashboard and they all yield the same results. Actually, whether I set the X360 to output in either 1280X1024 or 1360X768 and then check the menu for the 6168W it reports back that it is getting 1280X1024 in either case (however I think this is irrelevant to my question).

Any ideas why the picture looks horrid with the VGA cable?

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention the component cables gives me a problem too....the dark areas have the sparkling pixel effect.....but I'm pretty sure that is caused by a bad digital board in the 6168W....I'll have to get a service call....but it is bearable, where the VGA cable is unbearable.

What is the highest resolutiom you can choose with the vga? And can you choose 1280x720P? I haven't opened my vga 360 adapter yet, since I haven't decided if I'm going to return it and just use the component outs.

"Yikes. Johnny I'm in Lake Mary. I'm thinking of getting the 56 or the 61. Where did you get your set? "

Johnny and ][udson, Iam a newbie in Orlando, shopping for a Samsung 1080p set (50 or 56") but these issues with audio, standard channel grainy (Brighthouse) and now getting set repair service in the Orlando area has me really worried about moving forward with a purchase on this make..
ards
How was Brighthouse/Time Warner to deal with in getting your cable up to quality standards ?

Hi Mav,

I haven't had many problems with Brighthouse myself. I've got HD running on my projector in 720p and it's very, very nice. Any issues for me have been pausing or cutting out sound during sporting events - which is definately the source, not the cable feed. Regular HD programming is solid. I've no issue with the SD other than it looking like crap regardless.

I don't think John's experience neccessarily means that we'll get bad service. I take everything I read on here with a giant grain of salt. I'm not saying people's experiences aren't valid, but that there is a huge percentage of happy people who of course have little reason to post. I'd say problems fall into the 5-10% category at best. Just my opinion...

Cheers,

][udson

What is the highest resolutiom you can choose with the vga? And can you choose 1280x720P? I haven't opened my vga 360 adapter yet, since I haven't decided if I'm going to return it and just use the component outs.

I can choose any and all resolutions. Well, I only tried the highest four resolutions, but yes I can choose 1280X720.

Thanks for giving your thoughts on this particular model, they certainly help to solidify my decision on this one. I'm a little worried about the grainy standard definition channels, although I know that's a problem with any high-def tv. Do you use a cable box for all channels, or do you have your cable split with high-def on the box and standard signal going straight into the tv's RF input? I've heard that helps a little bit. I'm just concerned because some of the channels my wife likes to watch are still standard def, and I don't want to buy a new tv and have her hate it because her channels are unwatchable all of a sudden. Although maybe if they're at least on digital cable they'll be upconverted and look okay...?
I guess I should clarify my comment on standard defin channels. I use the Comcast HD box 6200, no DVR, just TV and that's it, hooked with component cables. All the network channels and any "A" side channels (from the old days) are upconverted and look very good and have separate HD stations on the Comcast box, even tho some programs are HD and some are not. The channels I find grainy are the old "B" side, like the History Channel, CNBC or the like and sometimes they are OK. When you skip up to the digital channels, they get very watchable (and On Demand movies are pretty good too, tho not HD). So it depends on which channels you watch as to what you will see. I really think you will love this set, last night we were watching Penguins on Discovery HD, then The Amazon on INHD and then I Robot on HBO HD and it was all great. Go For It!!!!

I am looking for an informed opinion to help make the biggest improvement with my 6768 picture. Which would accomplish a larger pic improvement; the DVDO VP30 or the digital mosquito? My situation is this: I have a cable feed that contains HD programming as well as SD programming. I am very much into sports. There is no particular thing that is annoying me most with my feed (I see some digital noise but it is not overwhelming as well as having a SD pic that kinda sucks- both could use improvement).

An important aspect is my monitor. I am using a Sammy HLR 6768 1080p DLP set. There is no way to turn off the internal scaling device and it will not accept anything over 1080i as an input.

So, would the new VP30 really do anything if my 1080p DLP takes an already scaled signal from the VP30 and breaks it down and then rescales it again? If it does, would the impact of mosquito still be more significant? I understand that in the best of worlds I would home audition all of this equipment but that won’t happen. Any input would be greatly appreciated, especially from anyone who already is using the DVDO HD+ with their sammy.

So to sum it up again, would the two work best together? Will the digital mosquito make a bigger difference? And specifically, is the VP30 really going to do anything for me? Thanks, Matt

I'm trying to determine if my 5078 is having the dynamic range problem that is mentioned here extensively. One issue I see is that skin tones in dim lighting look blotchy - like there is not enough colors to render them. I also see problems in Finding Nemo where the blues in the waving ocean currents are graduated in color - not smooth. When I turn DNIE off, it gets a bit better. When I turn of BWS it also gets a bit better, but is not completely gone. Bright vibrant colors look great, but low-light tones look wrong. Another example was the skin tones in Lost when they are in the bunker (dark light).

Is this the problem others have seen? And if so, I guess to summarize the solutions:
- turn off DNIe if you don't mind the picture fuzzyness
- turn of just BWS
- either of the above combined with adjust subcontrast and subbrightness to see if it goes away

What I've found is that after doing this, the dynamic range problem is a bit better, but the rest of the picture looks flat and not as vivid.

The problem is so apparent, that this set does not seem worth keeping. Normally, I'm a geek for tweeking this stuff, but you should not have to go into the service menu or hire a calibrator to get basic things like this working on a set like this. I'm getting close to going Panny Plasma or SXRD (even with all the SXRD problems).

Since this forum is where the best info on Samsung 1080p DLPs can be had (thanks to everyone here), I wanted to give back a little with my own experience...and submit a call for help. :(

My 6168 is fed from Cox digital cable via a SA8300HD DVR through the component connection and HDMI (for comparison). My experience with the Monster HDMI400 cable from the DVR to the 6168 resulted in a significantly lesser PQ vs. the component input. Interesting, but not necessarily a surprise given what I have seen/read from a variety of sources. I'll be returning the HDMI400.

The only PQ issue I observe is with some dark scenes - strange large-area artifacts are present in the dark areas of the display field. It is hard to tell if this is a problem with the HD source, which may be very likely. Aside from that, the PQ is incredible, in both HD and SD. Those worried about degraded SD performance have nothing to worry about - even very low quality SD sources (e.g., old "Mash" reruns) look every bit as good as on my reference CRT (Sony 35").

And now my call for help...

Aside from the dark scene issue described above, the cause of which is unclear (display vs. source), a deal-breaking problem for me was immediately clear with the 6168 - mild visual fatigue and headache caused by what I suspect is eye strain from the display's color-wheel-related RGB "refresh rate". I almost immediately feel eye strain when I begin watching anything on the 6168. Relatedly, while I am certainly able to observe RBE when viewing very bright images on dark backgrounds and/or looking off-screen, RBE does not bother me.

While I have not noticed significant reports of eye strain in this forum for these displays, is anyone here aware of any calibration which may help relieve eye strain for these puppies? Also, does DLP-related eye strain lessen over time as one gets used to the display, or is it a "here to stay" symptom, I wonder?

I love the display and would recommend it to all, but if the eye strain cannot be eliminated, I guess I'm one of the unlucky few who must wait for the 3 chip DMD systems and/or go with a constant image display technology for the time being.

Thanks for any thoughts, and thanks for all the rest of the input - great forum!

Jason

[udson']Yikes. Johnny I'm in Lake Mary. I'm thinking of getting the 56 or the 61. Where did you get your set?
Im near WInter Haven. If you take I-4 to hwy 27 then S Im like 45 min from there.
I purchased through TV authority during the power buy. I called them and being as it's beyond the 30 day exchange period they told me to call Samsung and that's what I did.

I wanted the 67" set because my previous set was a 65" pioneer and I didn't want to downsize so to say. At the time no stores carried the 67 but now i think you can get one at Circuit City if you order it.

I wouldnt have purchased online if I could have picked it up at a retailer for a reasonable price. You can find the 56 and 61 readily available. I would suggest you get it locally so if you have a problem after 1 month you can at least go to the store and ask for a replacement. On a side note I have purchased 2 other sets from onecall this year for other installs and those seem to be doing just fine.

One thing that TV authority could do would be to put those little shock sensors on the outside of the boxes and if they are triggered you know right then that someone has dropped the box. At that point you could instantly refuse it and I think it might help with more careful handling of these sometimes delicate TVs.

So far I'm in the dark as far as whos gonna come work on my set. So right now Im looking at at 45XX dollar paper weight. Something to think about before you drop that much cash on a TV.

Good Luck!
:(

- turn off DNIe if you don't mind the picture fuzzyness

That should read...

turn off DNIe if you don't want a dynamic black level and artificially enhanced image

I noticed eye strain the first couple nights. But you have to ask yourself whether you were watching gobs more TV given the excitement over the new set and amazing picture. I could still imagine eye fatigue though. Make sure you are an adequate distance from the set. For a 61 you probably want to be at least 9 feet. More like 12.

And now my call for help...

Aside from the dark scene issue described above, the cause of which is unclear (display vs. source), a deal-breaking problem for me was immediately clear with the 6168 - mild visual fatigue and headache caused by what I suspect is eye strain from the display's color-wheel-related RGB "refresh rate". I almost immediately feel eye strain when I begin watching anything on the 6168. Relatedly, while I am certainly able to observe RBE when viewing very bright images on dark backgrounds and/or looking off-screen, RBE does not bother me.

While I have not noticed significant reports of eye strain in this forum for these displays, is anyone here aware of any calibration which may help relieve eye strain for these puppies? Also, does DLP-related eye strain lessen over time as one gets used to the display, or is it a "here to stay" symptom, I wonder?

I love the display and would recommend it to all, but if the eye strain cannot be eliminated, I guess I'm one of the unlucky few who must wait for the 3 chip DMD systems and/or go with a constant image display technology for the time being.

Thanks for any thoughts, and thanks for all the rest of the input - great forum!

Jason

I had a HLP 6163 for about a year (and liked it very much, though now I have a Mits 1080p dlp, and also like it a great deal), and for the first 6 weeks, I'd say, experienced some eye strain. (Of course I was probably watching it too much, but that's another story!) After this month or two, though, I have never noticed it since. I think that these dlp sets are just so bright and sharp, that it takes a while of the eyes to adjust to it.

Point taken. Very subjective though. I too think that DNIe "on" is very artificial looking, but I think DNIe off is worse than most other rear projections. Tough choice.

Point taken. Very subjective though. I too think that DNIe "on" is very artificial looking, but I think DNIe off is worse than most other rear projections. Tough choice.

I've been messing with my DNIe settings and have settled on turning off all the individual pieces as specified in a repost from Eliab except for SNI_PROC_DEP. This one seems to do one part of the image sharpening and gives a nice crisp picture without as much shadow/artificial effect along the edges that you get when you also turn on SNI_PROC_DCE.

Johnnyzcar, I totally agree about the shock sensors. It is a Sammy issue though, not TVA. I was surprised they weren't already attached. There are several people including myself who have had received damaged sets. I found out that no one bothered to mark or note the damage en route though, not even the delivery driver. Any damage to the set should be noticeable before anyone signs for it. At these prices I'd warn anyone to open the box before you sign and the driver leaves to be sure the inside packaging is perfect. I think in my case the shipper had to pay TVA for the damaged set. I don't know who payed for the second damaged set? You would think TVA would either warn the shipper, threaten them or switch carriers, something?

I received my copy of the service manual today and set to work adjusting the tilt. The instructions are quite reasonable. After finding the third adjustment wheel the process became much easier. I adjusted the two left side knobs to remove most of the tilt, then the bottom know to center the screen, then the first to again. This effort was repeated until I got a balanced picture. The top is pretty straight and the bottom dips slightly in the middle.

I tried using the cross-hatch test pattern recommended in the manual. I gave up on the test pattern and entered the vertical adjustment option. This shows a box on the screen and I worked to center the box on the screen. This was much better, since it allowed me to see where the picture was located during the fine tuning.

Overall I am quite happy with the performance of the set. I like the upconverted 1080i pictures (Boston Channel 4, WBZ) much better than the upconverted 720p (Boston Channel 5, WCVB). The standard digital channels are quite good. I'm waiting for the DirecTV roll-out in Boston on Dec 8th to upgrade the satellite feed to HD.

The information from the forum has been helpful and I thought I give a little back.

Point taken. Very subjective though. I too think that DNIe "on" is very artificial looking, but I think DNIe off is worse than most other rear projections. Tough choice.

It is a fact that DNIe off produces a more accurate picture. This is easy to confirm with test patterns, etc. More accurate that most other rear projection sets once properly calibrated, in my opinion.

The fact is that some people prefer an "enhanced" image. That is their right.
Everyone is entitled to their own subjective opinion so I won't argue with you on that.

Guys, is there a service manual available for the 7178 yet? Where would I find it? Thanks...

Cary

Guys, is there a service manual available for the 7178 yet? Where would I find it? Thanks...

Cary

Here is the info I got from Samsung:

Dear Customer,

Please refer to below part information that you have requested. If you would like to place an order, visit http://www.samsungparts.com And enter the below part number in the upper right hand side Search bar. Or please call 1-800-627-4368 to order.


Order Date: 11/14/2005 3:28:10 PM
Order Status: Processing
Payment Method: Credit Card
Shipping Option: USPS Priority Mail
Subtotal: $22.00
Shipping: $5.95
Handling: $3.00
Tax: $0.00
Order Total: $30.95
*Ordered amount will be charged on your credit card at the date of shipping.
Order Item(s):
Part Number Description Quantity Unit Price Total
SM-HLR6168W SERVICE MANUAL 1 $22.00 $22.00"

Your part number would be "SM-HLR7178W" for the service manual.

Thank you very much!

I keyed in the proposed part number "SM-HLR7178W" and came up blank. I did a search on the model number and did come up with a few items (light engine, power cord, etc) but no manual. I did see the 6168 manual though.

I went ahead and filled out a request form so we'll see.

Thanks again for the help.

Cary

I've had my 5678 for about 2 months. When Eliab calibrated it last month, he recomended the use of a backlight for veiwing in a darkened room. I bought an "Ideal Lume" 6500K color temp back light, mounted it behind the TV, adjusted to proper light output, and I can honestly say that I don't get eye fatigue any more. Might Work....

Thank you very much!

I keyed in the proposed part number "SM-HLR7178W" and came up blank. I did a search on the model number and did come up with a few items (light engine, power cord, etc) but no manual. I did see the 6168 manual though.

I went ahead and filled out a request form so we'll see.

Thanks again for the help.

Cary

If that doesn't work, call that toll free number and I'm sure they can help.

Of course the 68 series is the same as the 78 series so you could get the 68 series manual. Mine says "Basic model HL-R5078W" and "Model HL-R6168W" so the 6168 manual may work fine for yours. Perhaps the only difference is the screen size.

I've had my 5678 for about 2 months. When Eliab calibrated it last month, he recomended the use of a backlight for veiwing in a darkened room. I bought an "Ideal Lume" 6500K color temp back light, mounted it behind the TV, adjusted to proper light output, and I can honestly say that I don't get eye fatigue any more. Might Work....
Eliab is right, in a dark room the old light trick should work for most eye fatigue issues. I've read about it in a few places.

I see you have the 5678, it is the tv I'm considering. I will be using mine a lot for DVD and HTPC, probably end up being 50/50 usage. just wondering what the biggest "issues" you've had with the tv are. Anything that you would consider not right, even subjective issues. I'm hoping to get the tv in january , which will hopefully be around the time that Eliab will be around the Chicago area on tour. then 24/7 tv watching to get some good burn-in time ;)

thanks for your time,
Scott

If that doesn't work, call that toll free number and I'm sure they can help.

Of course the 68 series is the same as the 78 series so you could get the 68 series manual. Mine says "Basic model HL-R5078W" and "Model HL-R6168W" so the 6168 manual may work fine for yours. Perhaps the only difference is the screen size.
The service manual for the 6178 does reference the 7178 in the spec. area but does not include schematics or parts lists for the 7178. I believe it will be a different manual

Since this forum is where the best info on Samsung 1080p DLPs can be had (thanks to everyone here), I wanted to give back a little with my own experience...and submit a call for help. :(

My 6168 is fed from Cox digital cable via a SA8300HD DVR through the component connection and HDMI (for comparison). My experience with the Monster HDMI400 cable from the DVR to the 6168 resulted in a significantly lesser PQ vs. the component input. Interesting, but not necessarily a surprise given what I have seen/read from a variety of sources. I'll be returning the HDMI400.

The only PQ issue I observe is with some dark scenes - strange large-area artifacts are present in the dark areas of the display field. It is hard to tell if this is a problem with the HD source, which may be very likely. Aside from that, the PQ is incredible, in both HD and SD. Those worried about degraded SD performance have nothing to worry about - even very low quality SD sources (e.g., old "Mash" reruns) look every bit as good as on my reference CRT (Sony 35").

And now my call for help...

Aside from the dark scene issue described above, the cause of which is unclear (display vs. source), a deal-breaking problem for me was immediately clear with the 6168 - mild visual fatigue and headache caused by what I suspect is eye strain from the display's color-wheel-related RGB "refresh rate". I almost immediately feel eye strain when I begin watching anything on the 6168. Relatedly, while I am certainly able to observe RBE when viewing very bright images on dark backgrounds and/or looking off-screen, RBE does not bother me.

While I have not noticed significant reports of eye strain in this forum for these displays, is anyone here aware of any calibration which may help relieve eye strain for these puppies? Also, does DLP-related eye strain lessen over time as one gets used to the display, or is it a "here to stay" symptom, I wonder?

I love the display and would recommend it to all, but if the eye strain cannot be eliminated, I guess I'm one of the unlucky few who must wait for the 3 chip DMD systems and/or go with a constant image display technology for the time being.

Thanks for any thoughts, and thanks for all the rest of the input - great forum!

Jason
When we first got our 1080 we experienced the eye fatigue you are talking about as well as my being able to see the RBE sometimes. The following helped a great deal: 1. Use the Movie mode with the Contrast set down to 60 and the rest of the settings left at default, 2. Have at least a 25 watt light source somewhere behind the display. These two things help most in a dark room. During the day I use a custom setting, mostly for sports, with Contrast 65 to 70, Bright 45, Sharp 55 and Color 50, as the Movie setting is sometimes too dark. For all Movie (even during the day) and dark room viewing I use the Movie setting to eliminate the pic blocking in the dark areas (also dropping the Sharpness setting eliminates most of the dark area problems) .

Eliab is right, in a dark room the old light trick should work for most eye fatigue issues. I've read about it in a few places.

I see you have the 5678, it is the tv I'm considering. I will be using mine a lot for DVD and HTPC, probably end up being 50/50 usage. just wondering what the biggest "issues" you've had with the tv are. Anything that you would consider not right, even subjective issues. I'm hoping to get the tv in january , which will hopefully be around the time that Eliab will be around the Chicago area on tour. then 24/7 tv watching to get some good burn-in time ;)

thanks for your time,
Scott

When I first turned on this TV, right out of the box, hooked w/HDMI to S.A. 8300 HD box via Cox Cable, the HD PQ blew me away. I had seen friend's HD TV's in the past and thought they looked great but this one makes them all envious. SD looks reasonably good considering, but I find myself seeking out strictly HD programming now. I have had no glitches or mech. problems at all. I do notice HD programming PQ differences between channels. Ex: NFL on ESPN is flawless while other HD channels are of slightly less quality. You will notice source related picture degredation on some channels and certain shows. I use a Sony NS3100ES DVD player w/HDMI and it has a very good picture, extra good playing Super-Bit DVDs. I had the Denon 2910 but it showed macroblocking/ blotchyness in dark scenes. I am an architect by trade and I also do computer illustrations at home, so being an artist i am sensetive to colors or grey tones that are "off", which was the main reason I had my set calibrated by Eliab. While the set looked great before calib. it looks alot better afterwards. I don't see incorrect color tones anymore, the detail in dark scenes is excellent, he will set-up a mode for future use of HD DVD/Blueray players and will set all colors and greyscales to industry standards, about a 4 hour process. He loves working on these TV's because they can be fine tuned so well. He will set-up all of your external devices correctly. Turn off DNIE, etc. I would have never been able to correctly do all this. So it was worth the $.
I have a powerful graphics computer, 2G ram, Pentium 4 3.4ghz, Raeon X800 pro graphics card with ATI Catalyst drivers. I hooked it up via "cheap" VGA cable and after alot of reasearch on this site to set it all up correctly with correct settings and software, i found the picture to be quite excellent. You can output 1920x1080@60Hz from the PC. You will have to adjust picture size/posistion in the TV's user menu. I watched some Windows WMV HD content and it looks fantastic (a taste of HD DVD to come). I also bought Terminator 2 extreme edition w/WMV HD, DVD ROM version and it is the best PQ I've seen yet. Overall it took much more time to set up the PC but it played DVD's very good. Surfing the web was fine except that I veiw the TV from 10 feet away and the icons and fonts are really small. I currently don't use my PC with the TV, but I might in the future. I'm waiting for HD DVD. Overall I have had a very good experience with this set so far, I run my sound out of the TV's optical out to a receiver with only 2 ch. stereo so I don't get lip sync problems. Also the backlight is a good idea. Good Luck with your decision.

The service manual for the 6178 does reference the 7178 in the spec. area but does not include schematics or parts lists for the 7178. I believe it will be a different manual

Certainly for different items like the screen but I think the chassis (L65a(N)_Excalilbur) and components are the same so the set-up and adjustments should be the same.

It of course makes sense from a manufacturing standpoint to make the chassis the same for all the sets.

Best to call the toll-free number and ask!

Point taken. Very subjective though. I too think that DNIe "on" is very artificial looking, but I think DNIe off is worse than most other rear projections. Tough choice.

I turned off my DNle and have noticed the following:

The black levels are now constant and don't clip to deep black like it did before.
The pictures are a little more noisy (you can see more film grain) but it doesn't have the flattening of image nor smearing that the noise reduction circuit caused.
Some colors, especially in low luminance flesh tones, appear a bit off in phase and luminance. They look a little brighter and more orange. For "normal" scenes, it is not noticeable.
I left the image enhancer on while turning down the sharpness control. With the enhancer off, the picture looked a bit soft for me. You may prefer the softer picture.

I made the index delay and actuator adjustments. Next step is the focus adjustment.

I'm thinking of ordering a service manual for my now non functioning HLR6768. I'm hoping to get a knowledgeable service tech, however I would like to get a service manual in the case I might need to work on this thing myself. I went to the samsung parts site and the search found two matches, one says Service Manual HLR6768W and the other says Service Manual HLR6768WX L65A(N), AA82-02861A. They are both the same price of 22.00. I think the second listing is maybe for the lamp I'm guessing? Ill call on Monday to find out.

I have yet to hear a word from samsungs RSE service and I'm giving them till Monday afternoon before placing my next call. :mad:

I went to the samsung parts site and the search found two matches, one says Service Manual HLR6768W and the other says Service Manual HLR6768WX L65A(N), AA82-02861A. They are both the same price of 22.00. I think the second listing is maybe for the lamp I'm guessing? Ill call on Monday to find out.


The L65A(N) number refers to the chassis model. I think most of the 2005 1080p sets use the same chassis. My item number for the 6168 manual is AA82-02825A. My part number is SM-HLR6168W. Mine cost the same $22.

Hope that helps.

The synchronization of sound and motion is off slightly and is annoying. I see now that this has been a problem for some time with Samsung according to other web sites.

I have had for 30 days otherwise I would return it to Tweeters Electroics in Houston where I purchased.

I am on Time Warner cable using their HDTV settop box and HDMI connection from TV to settop box.

Is there any solution?

Please help

Joe

Dobbsj, you didn't mention if your set is connected to a AVR or if you use the Sammy speakers? This entire thread has info on video lag and how to fix it if you are using a AVR. If you use the Sammy speakers then it is the broadcast and I notice that a lot. I think a lot of people here don't realize how often the lag is from the broadcast and not just their set. If you have an AVR you need to adjust the delay otherwise get a box like a Felston I believe so you can adjust it. I use the Sammy speakers for now until I can find a AVR that has delay for each input, HDMI and Sirius. When I find one I'll get it, I hope soon.

I think a lot of people here don't realize how often the lag is from the broadcast and not just their set.
Excellent point. If you see delay, was it caused by someone recording the movie or show incorrectly? Did they add delay for a video framestore? Is the audio in sync when it leaves the HD recorder? Did your cable or satellite provider "mess" with the feed? Is the ATSC bitstream audio locked to the video? Is your audio amp set correctly?

For example if you watch GMA on ABC, the studio segments could be in perfect sync and the remotes out of sync since they have to take an SD feed and upconvert it. I'm sure they have audio delay boxes in place but this is one example of how audio can slip out of sync. I know of times when shows I have been on have been out of sync.

The trouble may not always be with your set.

The synchronization of sound and motion is off slightly and is annoying. I see now that this has been a problem for some time with Samsung according to other web sites.

I have had for 30 days otherwise I would return it to Tweeters Electroics in Houston where I purchased.

I am on Time Warner cable using their HDTV settop box and HDMI connection from TV to settop box.

Is there any solution?

Please help

Joe

This is all you need: http://www.felston.com/dd540/index.htm

I just got my new HL-R6768W delivered yesterday from Tweeter. Absolutely no problems to get up and running. After getting over the initial shock of an unbelievably great picture, I noticed that something didn't seem right. There was too much "blotchy" stuff and some noise. You could really see it when viewing the grass fields and stadium shots in the Sunday HD football games. I also needed to set the audio delay in my AV receiver to 100 mS to get the sound in sync from my DVD player (that's a feature, not a problem).

Date of manufacture: November 2005 (label on back of set)

I'm used to CRTs. The picture was screaming at me to look for some sort of DSP processing tweak. With all of 14 hours on the lamp, I dove head first into the service menu (thanks to all for the info on what's needed!):

Firmware: T_EXCAAUS0_8019, 2005-08-16 (firmware date 26-Aug-05), T_DTVUCOM5_8077, T_SCALER_0102, T_EXCAAUS1_0097

SNI_PROC_DEP was ON, set to OFF
SNI_PROC_DCE was ON, set to OFF
SNI_PROC_BWS was ON, set to OFF
DNIe ON/OFF at OFF (???), Sub Contrast at 100, Subcontrast Offset at 5, Sub Brightness at 255

To enter the service menu (a summary of previous postings- works OK for me):
1. With display Off, enter in sequence: MUTE - 1 - 8 - 2 - Power.
2. Set powers up, wait about 30 S more and then you will see the service menu overlayed on top of your picture.
3. Right arrow enters menu and makes selections, MENU exits to previous menu.

I couldn't believe the difference disabling the SNI_PROC_xxx parameters made. The "splotchy stuff" is gone. I have residual noise, but will work on that when I get more familiar with everything.

Can anyone tell me if this is a problem? When switching from OTA antenna (coax) to the cable STB (HDMI), I get a weird picture - 3 at once. If this was an analog signal, I'd say that the horizontal sync was incorrect. No problem with the sound. If I switch to another channel on the STB and then back, all is OK. It seems that there are some timing problems to authenticate the HDMI connection. The STB indicates "dU" on the display while it's figuring out how to connect to the display.

Excellent point. If you see delay, was it caused by someone recording the movie or show incorrectly? Did they add delay for a video framestore? Is the audio in sync when it leaves the HD recorder? Did your cable or satellite provider "mess" with the feed? Is the ATSC bitstream audio locked to the video? Is your audio amp set correctly?

For example if you watch GMA on ABC, the studio segments could be in perfect sync and the remotes out of sync since they have to take an SD feed and upconvert it. I'm sure they have audio delay boxes in place but this is one example of how audio can slip out of sync. I know of times when shows I have been on have been out of sync.

The trouble may not always be with your set.

Your points are all correct, and this is why the Felston audio delay box is so useful; you can dial in perfect sync no matter what the origin of the non-sync. The only question is whether or not it's worth $230 to you to solve this problem once and for all.

I am a Comcast digital cable customer with HD and recently found something that might interest others. On INHD, there is a program called ‘Tune Up’. It is a 12 1/2 minute sequence of HDTV calibration images and an accompanying dialog containing instructions on how to adjust your HDTV. Very nice! Everything is targeted for HD sets and allows you adjust the cable input on the TV. The images are all 16:9 HD images. When I recorded the program on my Motorola 6412 III DVR it was being shown at 4:30 AM … so you might need to search for it. :)

[Note: I also posted this as it's own thread, but since people had been asking about an approach for adjusting their cable feed I'm including it here.]

It's starting to sound like I'll have to buy the Felston if I get the HL-R5688W. I have an external A/V receiver I'll be routing the sound through, and it doesn't have any kind of audio delay built in. Has anyone NOT had lip sync issues with the 5688 being routed through an external receiver? Does disabling DNIe get rid of the problem generally? I'd obviously rather not spend the extra $250 if I don't have to. If it looks like I'll need it, I'd rather order the Felston now so I have it when the tv arrives rather than deal with audio lag for a week afterward.

I have a 6178 and an external 7.1 receiver speaker system with no delays and I haven't disabled DNe. There are occational lip synch issues but it is source and not system dependant. I am as happy as heck with my system.

Some people are more sensitive to the video delay than other people. There is always some kind of video delay after processing a video signal, the question is how much and if you can notice it.

Bill, that's great. Its on Sat. 7-730 on Comsucks in Boston at least. Thanks. I assume it is better than DVE or other calibration since this will be 1080?

Geekgirl, what you see with the football game is that they don't use the same cams for all of the shots. I think some might not be HD but it is broadcast in HD. I notice some of the graphics aren't as sharp as others for some reason? Also, Fox and some others are 720, not 1080. I use the Sammy remote and when I cycle through the sources I have a delay from the HD STB DVR when using HDMI. I don't remember that delay when I used component?

Is there someone who could post all of the SM adjustments that have been considered/recommended and the rationale behind the adjustment. I believe that there are three DNIe items, the index delay, and accenuator, to name a few. I know there are posts that address some of those items, but I don't know of any that addresses all of them. Also, when it has been completed, perhaps UCSB could add the info to one of the original posts.

Reminder - TVA SPecial Pricing for AVS Members
The power buy has long been over, but AVS members do get a price break from TVA. This morning I checked both member and public pricing on TVA's site for a 6168. Anyway, when you factor in s/h, AVS members save a $15.00 (almost one-half of one percent). TVA Sales did confirm that.

Reminder - TVA SPecial Pricing for AVS Members
The power buy has long been over, but AVS members do get a price break from TVA. This morning I checked both member and public pricing on TVA's site for a 6168. Anyway, when you factor in s/h, AVS members save a $15.00 (almost one-half of one percent). TVA Sales did confirm that.

thats great. I was wondering how to pay for lunch

Bill, that's great. Its on Sat. 7-730 on Comsucks in Boston at least. Thanks. I assume it is better than DVE or other calibration since this will be 1080?
It is not as extensive as DVE or Avia, just the basics. But it has the advantage of being a signal that is coming from your DVR (cable input) instead of a DVD player. Which will allow you accurately set that input for your DVR/STB. I adjusted both the HDMI input and component input from my Motorola 6412 III.

Can anyone tell me if this is a problem? When switching from OTA antenna (coax) to the cable STB (HDMI), I get a weird picture - 3 at once. If this was an analog signal, I'd say that the horizontal sync was incorrect. No problem with the sound. If I switch to another channel on the STB and then back, all is OK. It seems that there are some timing problems to authenticate the HDMI connection. The STB indicates "dU" on the display while it's figuring out how to connect to the display.
I noticed an occassional two or three images on the screen after switching between similar modes. I don't think there is anything wrong with your set. My guess is that there is a work around based on how you power up your equipment or issue your IR commands. But, I finished my testing and I haven't been using the cable or ANT inputs.

It is not as extensive as DVE or Avia, just the basics. But it has the advantage of being a signal that is coming from your DVR (cable input) instead of a DVD player. Which will allow you accurately set that input for your DVR/STB. I adjusted both the HDMI input and component input from my Motorola 6412 III.

Did you have your set calibrated prior to making the STB input tweaks? Did you find the settings needed to be moved much?

It's starting to sound like I'll have to buy the Felston if I get the HL-R5688W. I have an external A/V receiver I'll be routing the sound through, and it doesn't have any kind of audio delay built in. Has anyone NOT had lip sync issues with the 5688 being routed through an external receiver? Does disabling DNIe get rid of the problem generally? I'd obviously rather not spend the extra $250 if I don't have to. If it looks like I'll need it, I'd rather order the Felston now so I have it when the tv arrives rather than deal with audio lag for a week afterward.

The only lip sync on my 88 with HDNet.But I have an avr with delay.I only have to set it to 30ms.That is the only station i have seen it on.Other than that i dont use delay on any other station.I would set the TV up and toy with it,and if you do have sync issues go from there.

I received my copy of the service manual today and set to work adjusting the tilt. The instructions are quite reasonable. After finding the third adjustment wheel the process became much easier. I adjusted the two left side knobs to remove most of the tilt, then the bottom know to center the screen, then the first to again. This effort was repeated until I got a balanced picture. The top is pretty straight and the bottom dips slightly in the middle.

I tried using the cross-hatch test pattern recommended in the manual. I gave up on the test pattern and entered the vertical adjustment option. This shows a box on the screen and I worked to center the box on the screen. This was much better, since it allowed me to see where the picture was located during the fine tuning.

Overall I am quite happy with the performance of the set. I like the upconverted 1080i pictures (Boston Channel 4, WBZ) much better than the upconverted 720p (Boston Channel 5, WCVB). The standard digital channels are quite good. I'm waiting for the DirecTV roll-out in Boston on Dec 8th to upgrade the satellite feed to HD.

The information from the forum has been helpful and I thought I give a little back.

Can you explain in detail how you did this fix. I too have tilt at the bottom of my hlr6168w. It noticably bows out in opposite directions at the bottom of the picture, especially on 4x3 material. Thanks for any help :)

Did you have your set calibrated prior to making the STB input tweaks? Did you find the settings needed to be moved much?

I did find that fine tuning my settings did make a positive difference on my DVR inputs (component, HDMI). In addition, I now have an approach for all of my inputs (DVD-Avia/DVE, DVR-INHD) that gets nice results. I have not had my set professionally calibrated.

Geekgirl, what you see with the football game is that they don't use the same cams for all of the shots. I think some might not be HD but it is broadcast in HD. I notice some of the graphics aren't as sharp as others for some reason? Also, Fox and some others are 720, not 1080. I use the Sammy remote and when I cycle through the sources I have a delay from the HD STB DVR when using HDMI. I don't remember that delay when I used component?

bcvp- Thanks. Good point, but I was switching between OTA (internally scaling to 720p and 1080i as needed) and the cable STB (manually scaling the STB to match 720p FOX / 1080i CBS). I also have an STB firewire feed and was viewing the output on my PC as a check (CRT).

In any case, after the service adjustments, the ESPN Sports Center studio broadcast was very impressive. Tonight will be focused on MNF team performance on the field. My home turf.

I just wanted to share my experience with the HL-R6168W so far. I've been lurking in these forums for years now and received a *TON* of excellent advice and pointers for further research from many of you. Time to start returning the favor with my input.

We've had the set for about 2 months now. I got the TV Authority deal through this site and had no problems with the ordering or the delivery. For the obsessed, there was a fist-sized hole punched in one end of the box near the bottom where it was behind the bottom of the screen. No damage to the set. Delivery was on-time. Given that I had no problems, I would do it again. It certainly beats paying full price, sales tax, and an extra delivery charge at the local electronics store. Bottom line, I got the set and a 4-year warranty extension for about $1000 less than a local purchase without the warranty would have been.

Inputs to the set are DirecTV via S-video, DVD via component, an OTA antenna, a Mac mini in the "PC" VGA input, and the video game of the moment in the side S-video input. Considering the DirecTV HD package. The movie mode has been tweaked using Digital Video Essentials. The only thing we couldn't get just right was the green level it's a bit strong. Tweaked the color weakness of green to "-1" and that's as close as it gets to our eyes.

After a couple of nights of SDTV, I couldn't take it and set up the old 27" CRT on a separate stand next to it for regular TV. Every problem you've ever read about HD and/or DLP sets manifests itself with regular TV, blocking, clay-faces, etc. I don't know if an external video scaler could do a better job, but I'm not really interested in trying. I actually got a guy at Sears to show me SD on a 6167 once and I knew it wasn't gonna look good on *any* HD set. I'm happy to keep both screens there, plenty of room for them.

Movies looked crappy over S-video, but as soon as I put in the component cable, it was like magic. They look AWESOME on this set. Spent about 12+ hours drooling over the extended Lord of The Rings trilogy. Followed that over the next few weeks with all 6 Star Wars movies. Episode 3 is unbelievably crisp on here. My DVD player is about 8 years old, doesn't even do progressive output. Imagining what it'll look like when I upgrade that. Can't wait for the HD-DVD war to settle out...

HDTV on the OTA is excellent. Routed the audio back to the receiver with an optical cable. Both DVD and OTA HD have enough video lag for lip-sync problems. I am particularly sensitive to it. Got a Felston DD540 digital delay on the way to cap that until the industry figures out what they're gonna do.

The Mac mini can pump out full 1920x1080. I'll save you some time if you're thinking of this. Read the TV manual carefully. The vertical refresh rate for that resolution is 59.9, not 60.0. They mean that quite literally, don't round off. If you set the rate on the mini to 60, you get no signal. It does have 59.9 on it's list of choices for that resolution. The image is absolutely crisp. Always wanted internet access in the living room. A wireless keyboard/mouse and we're all set now.

I don't play 3D video games, just old-school 2D Nintendo, etc. They look decent. No noticable controller lag or anything. Wish Nintendo would go back and make a hi-res version of them for big, modern digital displays like this.

I am pleased with this set so far. My only real fear was the rainbow issue. Can I see them? Yes. Frequently? No, only in high-contrast motion or if I look away from the TV at the right time. After watching about a dozen movies on it now, though, they're starting to "disappear". I think they're one of those things that you can train your sub-concious to tune out, like a mechanical noise in the background. Some people say the cooling fan is too loud. I've never even heard it, but it can't possibly be louder than the Maxtor hard drive I stuck in one of the TiVos, POS. Gonna stick with Western Digital from now on. :)
A great tip I read on here somewhere is about the room lighting. I bought a 6500K tube-light and stuck it behind the set. Turn off the rest of the room lights and movies look even better, color-wise. Never forget the human-in-the-loop here, it's not all about the unit settings.

I noticed an occassional two or three images on the screen after switching between similar modes. I don't think there is anything wrong with your set. My guess is that there is a work around based on how you power up your equipment or issue your IR commands. But, I finished my testing and I haven't been using the cable or ANT inputs.

UCSB - Thanks for your help. I suspected this, but it's reassuring to hear from someone else. I've got the "new TV" jitters and am looking for anything that might be a real problem.

To go into more detail, my STB has a DVI output and I'm connecting to the HDMI IN 2 / DVI IN input (and to DVI IN audio). It may be a timing problem with the 6768 negotiating the authentication in HDMI - HDMI first, failing, then re-negotiating with HDMI - DVI. In any case, I can fix the problem by simply switching channels and back again.

UCSB - Thanks for your help. I suspected this, but it's reassuring to hear from someone else. I've got the "new TV" jitters and am looking for anything that might be a real problem.

To go into more detail, my STB has a DVI output and I'm connecting to the HDMI IN 2 / DVI IN input (and to DVI IN audio). It may be a timing problem with the 6768 negotiating the authentication in HDMI - HDMI first, failing, then re-negotiating with HDMI - DVI. In any case, I can fix the problem by simply switching channels and back again.
If you are using the the Motorola 6412 DVR, you might ask your provider if you can upgrade to a 6412 III. It has an HDMI output that may help. Not to mention a number of other enhancements. An easy way to test if it is the DVI connection is to use component video cables from the DVR and see if you still have the problem.

Well, after doing a 2 hour showdown at Fry's using various sources, I returned my 5078 for a 50" SXRD. So, I'm off to the SXRD boards. I wanted to believe in the Samsung so badly because I just don't like those SXRD dumbo ears.

IMO, most of this is subjective and you can't really get a solid opinion without using the set for a few days on real content. But some aspects are not subjective. I found two movies that clearly show color banding or blotchies on the Samsung - and they don't show up on the SXRD. In the opening 10 seconds of finding Nemo, the Sammy displayed the waving blue ocean as blue waving stripes. The Sony displayed them as a smooth blue-scale of waving ocean. Even with I turned off DNIE (at home), these blue bands are annoyingly visible. This isn't just a minor nit, my wife and neighbor both independently pointed them out. Also, on chapter 10 of Star Wars episode 3, the skin tones of Anakin look flat and blotchy. Not so with the SXRD. Bottom line, I don't like either picture in either DNIe setting.

After about 15 minutes of this showdown, I had a developed a following in the store including two families looking to make a purchase on one vs the other. Quite comical. I kept my mouth shut on which I preferred and all 5 people came down on the Sony.

I still think the Sammy has a great picture and could be calibrated to look great, but what's the point of going through that hassle?

Sorry I posted this in another thread but really wanted it here.

Well the saga continues with my 6768 needing service after 1 month.
I originally called 800- Samsung and got the standard issue we'll contact you within 3 days. What I got was the Authorized repair shop telling me they will not come to my area and good luck. So I called CS again then overnight this other supposed authorized dealer is miraculously in my town. I really don't live in the boonies, this is decent size town with lots of people, however not a sprawling metroplis but fairly modern. So I talked to the repair shop gentleman and after our conversation decided that I would rather the Three Stooges work on my set than this guy. I even drove to the location where his supposed shop was and took a couple photos. I emailed the photos to the warranty dept and haven't heard anything about it. I wish I knew an email address for someone higher up the chain because this would certainly be embarrassing for Samsung. So this is your authorized repair center, this is your bid of confidence. So we the consumers know we will get our repairs done by competent technicians. I'm not trying to insult anyone, but I just spent 47 hundred clams and it doesn't come easy these days. I think it's not too much to ask to get a competent repairman.

This "repair" center is an older house (he lives/rents here) with a rotten shed and a bunch of old TVs in a carport with exposure to the weather. This guy has been there for a while. I will attach a couple pictures.

I called back to Samsung and griped about it. They said that the only registered authorized dealer is in Holiday FL which is the original rep who told me forget it and it's too far to drive. When I got home later this even I get a message stating that now another service center has been found which is another one of those mom and pop places. I guess my gripe is it looks like there isn't much credibility in these repair shops. They seem to have promoted them to authorized DLP projection specialists overnight. My fear is that I get someone who ends up making things worse off than before.

I have ordered a service manual and if I could get the parts from samsung I'd fix the dam thing myself.

So to all those prospective buyers you have been warned. If you buy from a brick and mortar you have a better chance for an exchange but for those of us who purchased online and now have dead Samsungs we might as well flip a coin or play lotto because you're gambling with your hard earned cash.

Any advice oe information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

Also a reply from UCSB and remark from me.


It is unrealistic to think that your TV repairman is going to be living in a mansion ... ... why not have him come out and hear what he has to say. Samsung has their own employees and trucks in larger urban areas (and they are great by the way), but can't cover the entire country. If there are B&M's in your town or AV stores, why not call them and see how they handle Samsung repairs ... perhaps they are using your local repairman and getting good results.
__________________
> Bill

I don't expect him to live in a mansion I don't care where he lives. I would however expect that he might have a dedicated somewhat clean workspace to conduct business out of and not his livingroom /kitchen. I spoke with this guy on the phone and he didn't impress me with his knowledge. Like I said I'm not trying to offend anyone and I'm no expert but I would rather have someone who has experience with these new sets than someone who doesn't. I know he hasn't worked on these sets just by talking to him.

I think anyone should have the right to question the competence of who will be making repairs on your car your TV or whatever it might be. There is someone I would trust to work on this set and I will be talking to them tomorrow to see if they can be a certified repair center.

Just a thought, so when he takes my set and stores it in that carport to work on it and meanwhile the birds and rodents have made thier cozy home in it and the mositure has ruined the electronics who should I complain to then. I don't want something like that to happen, thats what I'm trying to prevent.

Zmansbr, is the SXRD 1080p and how much more is it? Is it DLP? You might consider going over 50"? I haven't really paid attention to that model but after your review I should find out what the differences are spec wise. Thanks.

Johnnyzcar, I too don't completely agree with you either. As long as the guy or gal even, does a good job then that is what should matter. These sets are brand new and I'd bet the best shop in the US probably only has one expert. I also think the guy will call Samsung and get instructions as to what it is to replace. There isn't anything to repair in most cases, so he should be able to replace any part on your set just like any other.

Most car mechanics rely on computers now for the info on each model, heck now they connect a computer to your car so the computer tells them what is wrong. That's the way things are these days, nothing is really made to be repaired, just replaced. Maybe find out what it is that needs to be addressed before you drop it off anywhere? Then you know what it is they are supposed to do so you can double check that it was done correctly. You might even drive and drop off the set to the jerk who won't go to see you. If he charged a travel fee he should bill Sammy anyway. That is ridiculous on his part. These brick and mortar stores look great but are filled with idiots for the most part. Oh and BTW I think they are supposed to go to you, so I unless you drive to that expert, the other guy should look at your set first and give you an idea of what is wrong while speaking to Sammy with you standing there. I know I would feel better if it was handled that way rather than just dropping it off and not knowing what's going on.

Johnnyzcar, I wouldn't worry about the carport anyway since your set won't fit there. Lol.

I see a little banding on NEMO, but I also see the same thing on my analog set, my LCD HD set and my LCD PC monitor. I assumed it was on the transfer since I see it on every set I have.

Yes, I saw it worse on an older DVD player I have, but the player I borrowed at Fry's didn't show almost none of the banding on the SXRD and lots of it on the Sammy - better with BWS turned off though - but still not as good.

Im sure the authorized repair really appreciates you posting pictures of his house and street address. Well....actually he may appreciate it considering the mansion he will reap from it....(size depending on your net worth of course).




Sorry I posted this in another thread but really wanted it here.

Well the saga continues with my 6768 needing service after 1 month.
I originally called 800- Samsung and got the standard issue we'll contact you within 3 days. What I got was the Authorized repair shop telling me they will not come to my area and good luck. So I called CS again then overnight this other supposed authorized dealer is miraculously in my town. I really don't live in the boonies, this is decent size town with lots of people, however not a sprawling metroplis but fairly modern. So I talked to the repair shop gentleman and after our conversation decided that I would rather the Three Stooges work on my set than this guy. I even drove to the location where his supposed shop was and took a couple photos. I emailed the photos to the warranty dept and haven't heard anything about it. I wish I knew an email address for someone higher up the chain because this would certainly be embarrassing for Samsung. So this is your authorized repair center, this is your bid of confidence. So we the consumers know we will get our repairs done by competent technicians. I'm not trying to insult anyone, but I just spent 47 hundred clams and it doesn't come easy these days. I think it's not too much to ask to get a competent repairman.

This "repair" center is an older house (he lives/rents here) with a rotten shed and a bunch of old TVs in a carport with exposure to the weather. This guy has been there for a while. I will attach a couple pictures.

I called back to Samsung and griped about it. They said that the only registered authorized dealer is in Holiday FL which is the original rep who told me forget it and it's too far to drive. When I got home later this even I get a message stating that now another service center has been found which is another one of those mom and pop places. I guess my gripe is it looks like there isn't much credibility in these repair shops. They seem to have promoted them to authorized DLP projection specialists overnight. My fear is that I get someone who ends up making things worse off than before.

I have ordered a service manual and if I could get the parts from samsung I'd fix the dam thing myself.

So to all those prospective buyers you have been warned. If you buy from a brick and mortar you have a better chance for an exchange but for those of us who purchased online and now have dead Samsungs we might as well flip a coin or play lotto because you're gambling with your hard earned cash.

Any advice oe information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

Also a reply from UCSB and remark from me.



__________________
> Bill

I don't expect him to live in a mansion I don't care where he lives. I would however expect that he might have a dedicated somewhat clean workspace to conduct business out of and not his livingroom /kitchen. I spoke with this guy on the phone and he didn't impress me with his knowledge. Like I said I'm not trying to offend anyone and I'm no expert but I would rather have someone who has experience with these new sets than someone who doesn't. I know he hasn't worked on these sets just by talking to him.

I think anyone should have the right to question the competence of who will be making repairs on your car your TV or whatever it might be. There is someone I would trust to work on this set and I will be talking to them tomorrow to see if they can be a certified repair center.

Just a thought, so when he takes my set and stores it in that carport to work on it and meanwhile the birds and rodents have made thier cozy home in it and the mositure has ruined the electronics who should I complain to then. I don't want something like that to happen, thats what I'm trying to prevent.

Sorry I posted this in another thread but really wanted it here.

Well the saga continues with my 6768 needing service after 1 month.
I originally called 800- Samsung and got the standard issue we'll contact you within 3 days. What I got was the Authorized repair shop telling me they will not come to my area and good luck. So I called CS again then overnight this other supposed authorized dealer is miraculously in my town. I really don't live in the boonies, this is decent size town with lots of people, however not a sprawling metroplis but fairly modern. So I talked to the repair shop gentleman and after our conversation decided that I would rather the Three Stooges work on my set than this guy. I even drove to the location where his supposed shop was and took a couple photos. I emailed the photos to the warranty dept and haven't heard anything about it. I wish I knew an email address for someone higher up the chain because this would certainly be embarrassing for Samsung. So this is your authorized repair center, this is your bid of confidence. So we the consumers know we will get our repairs done by competent technicians. I'm not trying to insult anyone, but I just spent 47 hundred clams and it doesn't come easy these days. I think it's not too much to ask to get a competent repairman.

This "repair" center is an older house (he lives/rents here) with a rotten shed and a bunch of old TVs in a carport with exposure to the weather. This guy has been there for a while. I will attach a couple pictures.

I called back to Samsung and griped about it. They said that the only registered authorized dealer is in Holiday FL which is the original rep who told me forget it and it's too far to drive. When I got home later this even I get a message stating that now another service center has been found which is another one of those mom and pop places. I guess my gripe is it looks like there isn't much credibility in these repair shops. They seem to have promoted them to authorized DLP projection specialists overnight. My fear is that I get someone who ends up making things worse off than before.

I have ordered a service manual and if I could get the parts from samsung I'd fix the dam thing myself.

So to all those prospective buyers you have been warned. If you buy from a brick and mortar you have a better chance for an exchange but for those of us who purchased online and now have dead Samsungs we might as well flip a coin or play lotto because you're gambling with your hard earned cash.

Any advice oe information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

Also a reply from UCSB and remark from me.



__________________
> Bill

I don't expect him to live in a mansion I don't care where he lives. I would however expect that he might have a dedicated somewhat clean workspace to conduct business out of and not his livingroom /kitchen. I spoke with this guy on the phone and he didn't impress me with his knowledge. Like I said I'm not trying to offend anyone and I'm no expert but I would rather have someone who has experience with these new sets than someone who doesn't. I know he hasn't worked on these sets just by talking to him.

I think anyone should have the right to question the competence of who will be making repairs on your car your TV or whatever it might be. There is someone I would trust to work on this set and I will be talking to them tomorrow to see if they can be a certified repair center.

Just a thought, so when he takes my set and stores it in that carport to work on it and meanwhile the birds and rodents have made thier cozy home in it and the mositure has ruined the electronics who should I complain to then. I don't want something like that to happen, thats what I'm trying to prevent.

I think everyone can empathize with your anxiety over this repair. After the amount that you have spent on the set, you have every right to have a trained technician repair it in your home. I hope you find someone locally that can do a competent job. You do bring up an important point on after sale service, it is a very important consideration that needs to be factored into any HDTV purchase.

Johnnyzcar, I too don't completely agree with you either. As long as the guy or gal even, does a good job then that is what should matter. These sets are brand new and I'd bet the best shop in the US probably only has one expert. I also think the guy will call Samsung and get instructions as to what it is to replace. There isn't anything to repair in most cases, so he should be able to replace any part on your set just like any other...........

BTW I think they are supposed to go to you, so I unless you drive to that expert, the other guy should look at your set first and give you an idea of what is wrong while speaking to Sammy with you standing there. I know I would feel better if it was handled that way rather than just dropping it off and not knowing what's going on.

Hey I'd be fine with the guy doing a repair/replace onsite.
As for the brick and mortar showroom. If you know what you want and get a good price you don't need the sales people to advise you. In the case you do have a problem within a month most stores will exchange it. In my case none of the stores were carrying the 67.

Johnnyzcar, I wouldn't worry about the carport anyway since your set won't fit there. Lol.

Funny, I think you are right but I'm thinking the squirrels and cats would like a new place to slumber.
Im sure the authorized repair really appreciates you posting pictures of his house and street address. Well....actually he may appreciate it considering the mansion he will reap from it....(size depending on your net worth of course).

Well, he'll be living right where he's at with my net worth ha ha!
:D
Seriously though, this is the address you get when you look him up in the business/yellow pages. That is his business address. I have no intentions of making his home address public but it just happens to be both in this case.
Also there is no street name and no town listed. If he wants to say anything about suing then he will be dealing with zoning and code enforcement, because I count quite a few violations sitting right there in that residential zoned area. If one person complained, this guy would be shut down or forced to move to a commercial location.

I hate to be so to the point but I just want my repair handled by competent techs.

I hope it works out.

I think everyone can empathize with your anxiety over this repair. After the amount that you have spent on the set, you have every right to have a trained technician repair it in your home. I hope you find someone locally that can do a competent job. You do bring up an important point on after sale service, it is a very important consideration that needs to be factored into any HDTV purchase.

UCSB thanks for your understanding and yes it is quite unsettling. A few things come to mind about this repair though.

I want to make sure the set performs to spec after the repair is completed. So if and when they replace the light engine or ballast and bulb.Would you need to go into the SM and readjust settings for the new engine and would you need specific test patterns to do it. Are the test patterns built in or could I use DVE/Avia to adjust it. I have ordered a service manual for my set and hope to get it this week.

One thing is for sure I would not have half the knowledge about these sets if it weren’t for this site and helpful community. I have to admit I’m not real happy right now but I’m sure it will work out one way or another in the long run.

Thanks again!

Johnnyzcar, I think that's my point. Those parts you mention just get replaced. Any tech can do that, even in his kitchen. They've done it in the living room of people's homes here. I'd imagine some were on the floor even, since people here have built in cabinets.

I would do a search here for light engines. Some have had bad experiences with replacing it and those were with qualified techs. Again, it is the part and not the person replacing it. I'd call Sammy and find out what is involved. Maybe you could bring it there and watch them do it while you wait so you don't drop it off? No matter what this is a hassle.

It's starting to sound like I'll have to buy the Felston if I get the HL-R5688W. I have an external A/V receiver I'll be routing the sound through, and it doesn't have any kind of audio delay built in. Has anyone NOT had lip sync issues with the 5688 being routed through an external receiver? Does disabling DNIe get rid of the problem generally? I'd obviously rather not spend the extra $250 if I don't have to. If it looks like I'll need it, I'd rather order the Felston now so I have it when the tv arrives rather than deal with audio lag for a week afterward.

I have had a 5668 for a month now and have components hooked into all of the different video inputs and have yet to notice any lip sync issues. I watch an equal mix of DVD via HDMI upscaled to 1080i, Comcast HD DVR via Component, Dish 921 HD DVR via DVI/HDMI, Xbox via Component, and HTPC via VGA.

I did disable DNIe last week, but only to improve picture quality.

I have all of the sound going through my Pioneer 7.1 A/V Reciever.

I would buy the TV first and see if you actually need it.

UCSB thanks for your understanding and yes it is quite unsettling. A few things come to mind about this repair though.

I want to make sure the set performs to spec after the repair is completed. So if and when they replace the light engine or ballast and bulb.Would you need to go into the SM and readjust settings for the new engine and would you need specific test patterns to do it. Are the test patterns built in or could I use DVE/Avia to adjust it. I have ordered a service manual for my set and hope to get it this week.

One thing is for sure I would not have half the knowledge about these sets if it weren’t for this site and helpful community. I have to admit I’m not real happy right now but I’m sure it will work out one way or another in the long run.

Thanks again!

If your set needs a new lamp, then that is a trivial repair. The instructions are in your Owners Manaual and is a standard owner replacement item. The ballast is also a relatively trivial repair. Both of which will not require any adjustment to your TV. But, if they start talking about swapping out the light engine, then you should stop and really think about what is happening and who is doing the repair. Service menu settings will probably be affected.

I have had a 5668 for a month now and have components hooked into all of the different video inputs and have yet to notice any lip sync issues. I watch an equal mix of DVD via HDMI upscaled to 1080i, Comcast HD DVR via Component, Dish 921 HD DVR via DVI/HDMI, Xbox via Component, and HTPC via VGA.

I did disable DNIe last week, but only to improve picture quality.

I have all of the sound going through my Pioneer 7.1 A/V Reciever.

I would buy the TV first and see if you actually need it.

Thanks for pointing this out. I figured that if I had the video inputs going into the tv and the audio inputs going straight to the a/v receiver (bypassing the tv) that I'd be bound to have some sync issues. But it sounds like that's exactly what you're doing and don't have any problems? And there weren't any before you disabled DNIe, either? That's reassuring.

Maybe I will wait and see how it goes before I order the Felston. They have a 14-day money-back return privilege for any reason, so I thought I could order it and then just return it if I don't need it. But I'm starting to become a little more optimistic about not having lag or sync issues. I was especially concerned about Xbox and DVD problems.

Picture of strip (http://www.marounweb.com/6168.HorizView_White1.jpg) If your set needs a new lamp, then that is a trivial repair. The instructions are in your Owners Manaual and is a standard owner replacement item. The ballast is also a relatively trivial repair. Both of which will not require any adjustment to your TV. But, if they start talking about swapping out the light engine, then you should stop and really think about what is happening and who is doing the repair. Service menu settings will probably be affected.

I am having a problem with a dark strip (about an inch wide) running down the left side of my tv. You can see a Picture (http://www.marounweb.com/6168.HorizView_White1.jpg) of it here (http://www.marounweb.com/6168.HorizView_White1.jpg) .

The service tech recommended to replace the light engine also. They should be here in a few minutes to perform the swap. When I asked them if something that seems so insignificant would need such a major repair, they responded, "this is just standard procedure".

If your set needs a new lamp, then that is a trivial repair. The instructions are in your Owners Manaual and is a standard owner replacement item. The ballast is also a relatively trivial repair. Both of which will not require any adjustment to your TV. But, if they start talking about swapping out the light engine, then you should stop and really think about what is happening and who is doing the repair. Service menu settings will probably be affected.

The lamp is firing up and the color wheel is spinning up and the fan is working.
Another TV service that I feel is more reliable came by today and the tech said it may be the DLP board and they are now going to haul off my set in the back of a van or truck to take it in and work on it. It was my understanding that most of these repairs are done on site. The set basically powers up with the stndby lamp light flashing then no picture or sound then it powers down. I was able to get it to come back up after reseating the lamp housing. After 30 min i got a green screen then nothing. I tried it again but can't get it to come on again. Who knows where this is headed but I'm sure the setup wont be as accurate as it would be from the factory.
I would be happy if Samsung would swap it out w a new one but that will never happen.
:(

Picture of strip (http://www.marounweb.com/6168.HorizView_White1.jpg)

I am having a problem with a dark strip (about an inch wide) running down the left side of my tv. You can see a Picture (http://www.marounweb.com/6168.HorizView_White1.jpg) of it here (http://www.marounweb.com/6168.HorizView_White1.jpg) .

The service tech recommended to replace the light engine also. They should be here in a few minutes to perform the swap. When I asked them if something that seems so insignificant would need such a major repair, they responded, "this is just standard procedure".


Did you try the Service Menu settings for vertical and horizontal positioning? Mine is set to 33 vertical and 68 horizonal. There's is quite a bit of range in these settings. If your picture is ok in every other respect I would try this first before they start dissecting your set!

The lamp is firing up and the color wheel is spinning up and the fan is working.
Another TV service that I feel is more reliable came by today and the tech said it may be the DLP board and they are now going to haul off my set in the back of a van or truck to take it in and work on it. It was my understanding that most of these repairs are done on site. The set basically powers up with the stndby lamp light flashing then no picture or sound then it powers down. I was able to get it to come back up after reseating the lamp housing. After 30 min i got a green screen then nothing. I tried it again but can't get it to come on again. Who knows where this is headed but I'm sure the setup wont be as accurate as it would be from the factory.
I would be happy if Samsung would swap it out w a new one but that will never happen.
:(


I can't imagine why any of these sets would have to be taken in for bench repair since the modules can easily be replaced on site. The last thing you need is your $4,000 set banging around in a truck bed. Remember all the bad experiences from the original donkey ride and now it won't be packaged for travel!

Halco,

The vert and horiz positioning moved the screen but the strip was still there. I just had the light engine replaced and everything is now fine.

Halco,

The vert and horiz positioning moved the screen but the strip was still there. I just had the light engine replaced and everything is now fine.

Did you watch the tech replace the LE? And do you think one could replace the LE themselves? And, did he have to make changes to the SM?

The lamp is firing up and the color wheel is spinning up and the fan is working.
Another TV service that I feel is more reliable came by today and the tech said it may be the DLP board and they are now going to haul off my set in the back of a van or truck to take it in and work on it. It was my understanding that most of these repairs are done on site. The set basically powers up with the stndby lamp light flashing then no picture or sound then it powers down. I was able to get it to come back up after reseating the lamp housing. After 30 min i got a green screen then nothing. I tried it again but can't get it to come on again. Who knows where this is headed but I'm sure the setup wont be as accurate as it would be from the factory.
I would be happy if Samsung would swap it out w a new one but that will never happen.
:(
Sorry to hear that they are going to be taking the unit in for service. In the past, usually units that were taken to the shop were taken there because the repair shop was unfamiliar with the TV and wanted to be able to take their time figuring things out. How long have you had the TV and where did you buy it, perhaps you should consider returning it.

Any one had success using a Logitech Xbox 360 remote to get into the service menu?
I'm considering getting this remote but only if I can use it to turn on/off DNEi without powering the TV everytime.
Thanks.

Any one had success using a Logitech Xbox 360 remote to get into the service menu?
I'm considering getting this remote but only if I can use it to turn on/off DNEi without powering the TV everytime.
Thanks.

Hey Doug! You don't need to do this to turn OFF DNIE. Following were the instructions sent in by sampsonjw to turn it OFF and make it stick.

---------------------------------------
This was posted at Home theater Spot...hop eit helps

Hello all,

Recently, we've discovered a way to permanently disable DNIe and its negative floating black and excessive edge enhancement attributes on the current line of Samsung 1080p displays! Depending on what firmware version you have, these adjustments might have to be performed for every input used including antenna and cable. I've also found that on the component inputs this will need to be performed for 480i, 480p, 720p, and 1080i. BTW, if a cable HDMI, Component, etc.) gets disconnected you may have to perform this tweak again.

WARNING, I ASSUME NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE CAUSED BY ENTERING THE SERVICE MENU! USE EXTREME CAUTION AND WRITE DOWN ANY SETTINGS BEFORE MAKING ANY CHANGES!

1. Enter the service menu by pressing "mute, 1, 8, 2, power" within a second of one another while the TV is turned off.
2. Once in the service menu, use the arrow keys to go to the "DNIe" page and right click.
3. Once in the DNIe page, turn each of the following parameters in the first column to the "OFF" position.

SNI_PROC_CEA
SNI_PROC_CEP
SNI_PROC_DEP
SNI_PROC_DCE
SNI_PROC_CCS
SNI_PROC_BWS
SNI_PROC_PCC
SNI_PROC_WTE
SNI_PROC_CTE

That's it! No more DNIe!

Good luck and happy viewing..

Eliab
----------------------------------------------------------

Just as a follow-up to my color-wheel-of-death issue..

The Samsung service tech came out and replaced the entire light engine module with a new one. He didn't wait for it to repeat the problem.

The swap was fairly simple (FYI for Halco) -- it took about 4 screws and unplugging a few cables and the whole thing slid out. He put the new one in, hooked it up, and everything worked fine. The geek in me was satisfied as I got to see inside the box, watch it being taken apart, put back together, and didn't void the warranty :)

A few observations... The new light engine was labeled for a 6168 instead of a 5668, but seemed to fit/work fine. I imagine the parts are identical as he checked the part numbers.

The smudge I had noticed was caused by a fleck of dust or plastic on the lens. It got removed with the old light engine though, so I no longer have that problem.

My only remaining problem is that the image is tilted slightly. It's about 3/8" lower on the left than on the right. Someone previously mentioned adjusting the tilt from the service manual -- is it bad form to ask for details or maybe a pdf/scan of the few relevant pages here? (I'm not an obsessive enough to want to order the whole SM for such a minor fix.) Maybe I'll just call the Samsung guy back.

Other than that, the tech knew exactly what he was doing and had all the relevant parts in his truck, so I'm pretty happy. We'll see how long it lasts :rolleyes:

Sorry to hear that they are going to be taking the unit in for service. In the past, usually units that were taken to the shop were taken there because the repair shop was unfamiliar with the TV and wanted to be able to take their time figuring things out. How long have you had the TV and where did you buy it, perhaps you should consider returning it.
Hi,
I purchased it through the power buy from TV authority and I have only had it for a little over 1 month. I called TV authority and got the cold shoulder and was told to call samsung. Is there anything anybody can think of for me to do to get some relief here? I have until thursday before these guys are coming to get it. The tech was saying something about jigs and alignment and replacing the DMD board. I talked to him about the LE replacement that has been talked about here and he didn't know. I talked to Samsung CS and they told me it may need to be brought in for repair and that if anything is wrong with it after transport to call them. I don't think they will do anything about it being mishandled but she still said to call themif there are any problems. I don't know how qualified the shop is as far as DLPs go but he mentioned they did sears repairs and mostly just lamp replacement and ballast. So I guess im the ginuea pig test monkey.

My service manual is coming this week, maybe I'll get it before they take my set.

I hope i don't have a lemon on my hands here. Fingers crossed :mad:

Thanks for pointing this out. I figured that if I had the video inputs going into the tv and the audio inputs going straight to the a/v receiver (bypassing the tv) that I'd be bound to have some sync issues. But it sounds like that's exactly what you're doing and don't have any problems? And there weren't any before you disabled DNIe, either? That's reassuring.

That's correct, all of my sound connections are being routed through my A/V receiver, without any noticable sync issues. No change before or after disabling the DNIe settings in the SM menus.

Some people are more sensitive to the video delay than other people. There is always going to be a delay when video is processed, it's just a matter of how much and if it is noticeable to the viewer. Even a scaler like the vP30 that will keep the output resolution the same as the input is going to introduce an 8ms delay in the video. More depending on what is done to the picture. But 8ms will not be noticeable. Even 50ms won't be noticed by some people, and some people will notice a 50ms delay.

I lost my picture on My HLR5688......AGAIN! Samsung is deciding whether to refund my money or replace the set....AGAIN! . This would be a third replacement. If they do decide to give me a refund ( which is what I told them I wanted) I am seriously considering getting the 58 inch HP 1080p set. The only positive thing I can say about my Samsung set(s) is the customer service has been pretty darn good. I hope none of you guys have my experience with your Sammies.

I lost my picture on My HLR5688......AGAIN! Samsung is deciding whether to refund my money or replace the set....AGAIN! . This would be a third replacement. If they do decide to give me a refund ( which is what I told them I wanted) I am seriously considering getting the 58 inch HP 1080p set. The only positive thing I can say about my Samsung set(s) is the customer service has been pretty darn good. I hope none of you guys have my experience with your Sammies.
One thing to think about ... the HP's are first generation product for HP. That could be good or bad.

Wingnut4772, I don't think most companies can compare to the CS Sammy has. I haven't dealt with HP CS but it also doesn't mean you won't have a defective set at HP either. Did you notice the date or serial numbers or country of the defective sets? Did you get all of them from the same store I assume? Was the packaging in perfect condition on all of them? I'm guessing its a bad batch since I think they all get inspected at the factory right?

I lost my picture on My HLR5688......AGAIN! Samsung is deciding whether to refund my money or replace the set....AGAIN! . This would be a third replacement. If they do decide to give me a refund ( which is what I told them I wanted) I am seriously considering getting the 58 inch HP 1080p set. The only positive thing I can say about my Samsung set(s) is the customer service has been pretty darn good. I hope none of you guys have my experience with your Sammies.
Well, so far my experience has been bad since my set is dead right outside of the first month.
Samsung CS doesn't have many qualified repair techs near me so the repair guys want to haul my set to their shop to figure it out I guess. Sammy said they were doing me a favor by allowing this shop to drive 20 miles extra to drop, I mean pickup my set. It's disturbing to me that everybody else gets the LightEngine replaced on site and mine has to be trucked away to a shop for god knows how long. I'm wondering how many of these new 1080P light engines they have in stock and if they don't how long will it take to get one.

So how hard was it to get a replacement set? If I have to go through much more of this pickup and return crap I might start thinking about demanding a replacement. Was that directly through Sammy or through a store?

JZ

Well, so far my experience has been bad since my set is dead right outside of the first month.
Samsung CS doesn't have many qualified repair techs near me so the repair guys want to haul my set to their shop to figure it out I guess. Sammy said they were doing me a favor by allowing this shop to drive 20 miles extra to drop, I mean pickup my set. It's disturbing to me that everybody else gets the LightEngine replaced on site and mine has to be trucked away to a shop for god knows how long. I'm wondering how many of these new 1080P light engines they have in stock and if they don't how long will it take to get one.

So how hard was it to get a replacement set? If I have to go through much more of this pickup and return crap I might start thinking about demanding a replacement. Was that directly through Sammy or through a store?

JZ
I thought TVA had a no questions asked return policy (shipping charged if you just returned, no shipping charge if you bought another TV).

Need some feed back on this: My friend got the 6768 and the picture seems quite a bit brighter than my 6178. Tweeters said that is true because the lamp is 20w brighter. Sound right?
Thanx

I had posted earlier in this thread (I think, if not the other Sammy HLR thread) of not finding any noticeable audio lag on my Samsung HLR6168.

Well, it turns out I did find some audio lag using my Oppo DVD player in at least 2 movies. One was the U2 Vertigo Live concert filmed in Chicago, the other was Queen Live at Wembley Stadium. The lag was more than the 50 MS maximum that the Oppo can do in its present firmware revision. the lag was much worse in the Queen DVD than U2.

Although I didn't notice lag in other DVDs there are bound to be others eventually as I go through them. U2 is my FAVORITE band and I could not stand for this lag issue even if it had been limited to that DVD alone. With Xbox360 in the works and worries about possible audio lag with that as well I pulled the trigger on a FELSTON DD540 (http://www.felston.com/) digital audio delay device.

I ordered one from their US distributor LIPFIX (http://www.lipfix.com) . Nick at LipFix was very helpful and informative over the phone and expedited shipping so that I got the unit the next day at a very reasonable price.

The Felston DD540 unit is excellent. It can control 2 different audio devices with NO alteration of the original sound source, only a delay that is user adjustable on the fly with a remote. It can be adjusted in 1 millisecond increments or in a series of presets all the way up to 680 ms - more than enough for almost any conceivable delay. In the aforementioned Queen DVD I had to adjust the delay to 140ms to compensate and with U2 it was just 80 ms.

Discrete commands are available for the unit so that you can program a more flexible array of functions into your learning remote. I did this with my Home Theater Master MX-700. Note: If you use the MX series remotes' Editor Software you have to use the Universal Browser function to import the *.ccf file format of the Felston's discrete codes and drag and drop them to the MX-700. Thanks to James Alston at Felston for the instructions on how to access those discrete files.

For any of you agonizing about possible audio lag issues with these Sammy's be advised the problem is NOT limited just to them. It is and likely will continue to be a growing problem with many 1080P sets due to the large amounts of video processing. See the links at Lipfix for a detailed explanation of Lip Sync issues that are common to the TV and broadcast industry, not limited to just the Samsung.

In spite of this minor audio lag issue that so far has been limited to just 2 DVDs in my collection I am very happy with my Sammy and would buy it again in a heartbeat.

I thought TVA had a no questions asked return policy (shipping charged if you just returned, no shipping charge if you bought another TV).

If I'm not mistaken the return policy is only for the first 30 days. I have had my set for about 1 1/2 months now so they won't even consider it. Sure I'd be happy to send it back no questions asked but after 30 days it's yours to keep and any problems you have are handled by the manufacturer. So I'm stuck with dealing with local mom and pop trying to figure out what makes this thing tick. :eek:
Maybe it'll work out, but I have my doubts.

Johnnyzcar, I hope either way, good or bad you let Sammy know of your experience. I think everyone here hopes it all works out and soon. You might be the first person here who has service outside a metro area. One tip, since they have your set, be really nice and patient. You can always let them have it after you pick it up in the event something goes wrong. It sounds like everything is standard procedure and should go smoothly.

Johnnyzcar, I hope either way, good or bad you let Sammy know of your experience. I think everyone here hopes it all works out and soon. You might be the first person here who has service outside a metro area. One tip, since they have your set, be really nice and patient. You can always let them have it after you pick it up in the event something goes wrong. It sounds like everything is standard procedure and should go smoothly.

I'm planning on being nice and I know I sound sarcastic but I would like them to know that I will notice if it's not handled correctly.

Tomorrow they are going to pick up my set. I'm really curious as to how they are going to load it onto the truck. The other day the guy wanted to throw it in the back of a van. I'm wondering, if they don't have a way of securing the set should I even let them have it. Also the little mount on the bottom of the set that fits flush with the samsung stand will not allow the set to sit flat really. In other words if its not sitting flat and not secured and they turn a corner it's gonna go for a ride. I'm hoping they at least know that and will take good care of it.

If I were rich I probably wouldn't be to concerned about it but this was and is a big investment for me. I was also wondering how much these techs get$ for in house service. Maybe I can start doing it myself since nobody around here does. I have a few certifications in other areas, maybe I can train for Samsung service also.

Thanks for the support.

Sorry, a dim light bulb went off. Do you have the original packaging? I guess you don't but that would be handy here. I would give them a blanket or run out to a storage unit place that sells moving blankets. U-Haul or a place like that even. $20 for a blanket vs. a scratch that they didn't cause is worth it. Home Depot might have some left but I heard they discontinued selling them. I got mine there for $15. You should take a picture of all sides with them watching so you can prove the condition of the set. None of this should be an issue since the bottom line is they should do the work in your home. You might call Sammy again and get to the bottom of that issue. Tell them they can use your phone and computer if they have to. Good luck.

They are supposed to handle it carefully, but they could say you should have the packaging and then you say but you are not supposed to remove it from your house. You could ask what insurance they have for loss or damage, especially in transit. Contractors are supposed to show you their insurance coverage.

Sorry, a dim light bulb went off. Do you have the original packaging? I guess you don't but that would be handy here. I would give them a blanket or run out to a storage unit place that sells moving blankets. U-Haul or a place like that even. $20 for a blanket vs. a scratch that they didn't cause is worth it. Home Depot might have some left but I heard they discontinued selling them. I got mine there for $15. You should take a picture of all sides with them watching so you can prove the condition of the set. None of this should be an issue since the bottom line is they should do the work in your home. You might call Sammy again and get to the bottom of that issue. Tell them they can use your phone and computer if they have to. Good luck.
I called sammy and tried to explain this situation and they said they might have to take the set in for service. I then asked what if the set is damaged and they said to call them if something was wrong when they returned it. If there is a scratch or something I can see them trying to say it was there before. So I'm gonna take some photos before they take it. Don't you think samsung might be aware of what is common practice according to the experiences here. This set is so big I don't know how they are going to be moving it safely. I hate to think of it but if there are any problems and I cant get satisfaction I'll have to go the legal route. Somebody posted they got a refund somewhere on the forum maybe they will offer me a new set, not likely I think.

I had two 5678's delivered damaged and they were in the packaging. I'm thinking the stronger you are up front the less likely you'll have a problem. I would have the person picking up the set make a note of any damage they see and and where it is located and sign it. Just like a car rental. Of course if there is damage already you would be better off claiming they did it and not have them make a note of it. I think your case is unusual and I would take extra steps to be sure everything goes well. I don't think there should be a problem with the repair itself but like you said, the before and after could easily be. CYA and do what you have to. Don't be a jerk. There are several ways to get your point across. Make sure they understand that before they go and grab the set.

I just got my HL-R6768W last weekend. Is there any way to tell which OTA broadcast station it's using to download the guide info?

I'm guessing my local PBS station (WHYY in Philadelpha PA), but I wanted to see if I can get this info from a menu somewhere.

I had two 5678's delivered damaged and they were in the packaging. I'm thinking the stronger you are up front the less likely you'll have a problem. I would have the person picking up the set make a note of any damage they see and and where it is located and sign it. Just like a car rental. Of course if there is damage already you would be better off claiming they did it and not have them make a note of it. I think your case is unusual and I would take extra steps to be sure everything goes well. I don't think there should be a problem with the repair itself but like you said, the before and after could easily be. CYA and do what you have to. Don't be a jerk. There are several ways to get your point across. Make sure they understand that before they go and grab the set.
The tv is perfect and has no damage aside from whatever is non functional inside. Physically it has some dust on it and thats it. Thats not a bad idea to have the driver sign saying he saw no physical damage before it leaves my house. I don't know how he might react and it might be in a negative way lol. I think I might do that and if he refuses I might refuse to let them take it. That might make things worse, I don't know. I took some photos and have them on file.
We'll see how this goes, it still seems crazy to try to move a set like this and not service it here.

I just got my HL-R6768W last weekend. Is there any way to tell which OTA broadcast station it's using to download the guide info?

I'm guessing my local PBS station (WHYY in Philadelpha PA), but I wanted to see if I can get this info from a menu somewhere.

I have RCN cable in Allentown. The guide info appears to come from Philly FOX Channel 29 (RCN Cable channel 5), not from a PBS station.

There is a TVGOS forum in the "Rear Projection" section here. There are posts in there which describe how to get the TVGOS Diagnostic Screens. The channel being used by TVGOS is shown in the diagnostic screens.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=510125&page=31&pp=30

I just got my HL-R6768W last weekend. Is there any way to tell which OTA broadcast station it's using to download the guide info?

I'm guessing my local PBS station (WHYY in Philadelpha PA), but I wanted to see if I can get this info from a menu somewhere.

Don't delete the PBS station from your channel list or the guide data will not be updated (this is also a way to see if it is PBS, but it will take a day or so to get the data back after you add the channel back into the line-up).

I have the HL-R6168W. I have been playing my new Xbox 360 with it and I am having a hard time controlling my aim while playing First Person Shooters (CODII and PDZ) and I believe my difficulty it may be, at least in part, attributable to a timing issue due to lag caused by extensive video processing time that I am not accustomed to.

I am using component inputs because the VGA input yields an unbearably bright picture with washed out, pale colors. Has anyone figured out how to reduce the lag (video processing time) for playing games with these TV’s by tweaking through the Service Menu? Maybe disabling certain processes that may otherwise be desirable for watching a movie or other High Definition programming, but that may not be needed for the computer generated digital input received from a video game?

This thread is so large it is difficult to find any answers to questions that may have already been addressed.

Thanks for any replies! :)

I am using component inputs because the VGA input yields an unbearably bright picture with washed out, pale colors.

Have you tried adjusting the brightness, contrast, and color level?

I played the XBox 360 over component for about 6 hours the other night. We played project Gotham racing and King Kong. No noticeable lag. However, I do have DNIE disabled.

Definately spend some time with the VGA getting it dialed in. It looked washed out to me as well so I poped in DVE. Once I switched to Movie Mode and set my brightness down a few ticks and the constrast up a few ticks, every looked just right. VGA is definately the way to play this console. Not only do you eliminate the lag, but you also get to elininate the overscan completely.

Have you tried adjusting the brightness, contrast, and color level?

I tried turning down the contrast and brightness all the way to zero, and it helped some, but it is still unbearably bright and washed out. You can’t adjust color with PC input, only contrast and brightness; all other settings are grayed out.

I’m not the only one experiencing this with HDTV’s; check out this thread:

http://www.hdtvarcade.com/hdtvforum/viewtopic.php?t=3604


Definately spend some time with the VGA getting it dialed in. It looked washed out to me as well so I poped in DVE. Once I switched to Movie Mode and set my brightness down a few ticks and the constrast up a few ticks, every looked just right. VGA is definately the way to play this console. Not only do you eliminate the lag, but you also get to elininate the overscan completely.

Hmmm, I'll give it a try, but I didn't think it would help since I turned down the contrast and brightness all the way and it only marginally helped; and those are the only two settings it lets you adjust. But if you got it to work it gives me hope! :)

I played the XBox 360 over component for about 6 hours the other night. We played project Gotham racing and King Kong. No noticeable lag. However, I do have DNIE disabled.

I just finished King Kong last night as well, I didn't notice lag with it either but that is not a timing sensitive game that you typically would. It’s the FPS’s that I’m off on.


I played around with turning DNIe off by this method last night:

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1. Enter the service menu by pressing "mute, 1, 8, 2, power" within a second of one another while the TV is turned off.
2. Once in the service menu, use the arrow keys to go to the "DNIe" page and right click.
3. Once in the DNIe page, turn each of the following parameters in the first column to the "OFF" position.

SNI_PROC_CEA
SNI_PROC_CEP
SNI_PROC_DEP
SNI_PROC_DCE
SNI_PROC_CCS
SNI_PROC_BWS
SNI_PROC_PCC
SNI_PROC_WTE
SNI_PROC_CTE

That's it! No more DNIe!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

And I didn’t really notice a difference, but I should probably test it out more extensively.

PGR3 however, I would think would be a little more timing sensitive, such as lag causing you to over-steer or something…..so I probably should play around with turning DNIe off while playing these FPS’s and see how it goes. One thing that I determined, however, is that I do like DNIe enabled for watching TV or any HD programming. In computer generated signals from games it may not make much difference in the quality of the picture, but I definitely like the difference in the quality of the picture it gives when watching TV.

Definately spend some time with the VGA getting it dialed in. It looked washed out to me as well so I poped in DVE. Once I switched to Movie Mode and set my brightness down a few ticks and the constrast up a few ticks, every looked just right. VGA is definately the way to play this console. Not only do you eliminate the lag, but you also get to elininate the overscan completely.

By the way, have you tried the component cables as a comparison against the VGA cable?

Yep, I had component hooked up until yesterday. To my eye, the VGA was cleaner and since I could remove the overscan, I think it helps in the games to have that extra 6-8 percent of screen. Also, I can't notice any lag either way but since the evidence saids there is a tiny amount of lag with component, I think that is enough to lean me in that direction....anything to help my barely adequate gaming ability :-)

I tried turning down the contrast and brightness all the way to zero, and it helped some, but it is still unbearably bright and washed out. You can’t adjust color with PC input, only contrast and brightness; all other settings are grayed out.

Not sure what video card, but on the ATI, You can do some overlay adjusting that helped me for PVR watching. It might work for Gaming as well. It has been a while since I did it, but you go into CCC(?) and one of the tabs allows you to set contrast, etc. I think there is an advanced setting that exposes more options to adjust.

One thing that I determined, however, is that I do like DNIe enabled for watching TV or any HD programming. In computer generated signals from games it may not make much difference in the quality of the picture, but I definitely like the difference in the quality of the picture it gives when watching TV.

I recently turned off DNIE and am not sure if I like it better on or off yet.

The picture looks to be sharper and more 3d with DNIE on.

What are the problems that DNIE cause? I have heard it can contribute to lag due to the extra processing? Also, I heard that it contributes to loosing detail in dark scenes?

I have never had any lag problems, as I watch DVD's through Media Center and use a Cable Card (no set top box). I do have problems with dark scenes and dark material in general.

So other than lag, what benefit does turning DNIE off give you for Hi-Def material?

Geekgirl, what you see with the football game is that they don't use the same cams for all of the shots. I think some might not be HD but it is broadcast in HD. I notice some of the graphics aren't as sharp as others for some reason?

Some Super-Mo cameras are standard def and the RF field cameras are SD. Some graphics are upconverted from SD 601.

The little Panasonic "box" camera that shoots the ESPN announcers doesn't have the same PQ as the larger cameras that shoot the game. The first shot before the start of the game is usually a regular HD camera but the shots in the booth after that are from the small camera.

HOW does one change the various GAMMA curve, in the 71" 1080p, model (latest model, don't have the full model number)? I can access the serivice menu, and I do see a gamma icon, that has on or off selected. Factory setting shows this to be set to off. When I clicked it on, I did not see any sub menus, that would allow for various gamma curves to be selected. Also, how does one get the "PERFECT COLOR" feature to work. No matter what I do, when I have the feature entered (the one where you see the model, standing there, ,with "BEFORE" and "AFTER", showing, nothing happens,as soon as you scroll over, (left to write arrows)and select any of the color options, than you hit "enter" you loose that page, and revert back to the prior page. Any input would be appreciated.

CHEERS, TC

Yep, I had component hooked up until yesterday. To my eye, the VGA was cleaner and since I could remove the overscan, I think it helps in the games to have that extra 6-8 percent of screen. Also, I can't notice any lag either way but since the evidence saids there is a tiny amount of lag with component, I think that is enough to lean me in that direction....anything to help my barely adequate gaming ability :-)

When you say “overscan” are you saying that your picture does not completely fill the screen when you are using the component connection with the X360? In your estimation you're saying you had about 6-8% of blank screen? (If so, wouldn’t that be called “underscan?”) My component connection with the X360 appears perfect to me; it fills the screen completely. Hmmm…. Which model Samsung do you have?

Not sure what video card, but on the ATI, You can do some overlay adjusting that helped me for PVR watching. It might work for Gaming as well. It has been a while since I did it, but you go into CCC(?) and one of the tabs allows you to set contrast, etc. I think there is an advanced setting that exposes more options to adjust.

We are talking about the picture we are getting from the Xbox 360 through the VGA connection (PC Input) on the TV; not from a PC with a video card. We don’t get to tweak the output from the X360.

Hi JohnnyZcar,

I was not aware of your TV having some service problems until today-after doing some catching up reading on the forums-I checked the notes on the order & noticed that there was a note from one of our new Customer service guys, Warren, on there about the service call.
PM me with your serial number when you get the chance, I would like to assist you with this-or email it to me (incase you dont have my email address anymore its: cambryn@tvauthority.com). I'm sorry to hear your troubles with Samsung, and I would like to assist you with contacting them if you need it, since I'm your sales consultant. It has been well over a month now since you've had your Tv, but I can still assist you on a confrence with Samsung regarding a service call, etc.
I'm looking forward to speaking with you soon.

Sincerly,
Cambryn ext.520

Hi JohnnyZcar,

I was not aware of your TV having some service problems until today-after doing some catching up reading on the forums-I checked the notes on the order & noticed that there was a note from one of our new Customer service guys, Warren, on there about the service call.
PM me with your serial number when you get the chance, I would like to assist you with this-or email it to me (incase you dont have my email address anymore its: cambryn@tvauthority.com). I'm sorry to hear your troubles with Samsung, and I would like to assist you with contacting them if you need it, since I'm your sales consultant. It has been well over a month now since you've had your Tv, but I can still assist you on a confrence with Samsung regarding a service call, etc.
I'm looking forward to speaking with you soon.

Sincerly,
Cambryn ext.520
Thanks Cambryn,
They(repair shop) came to pickup my set today. I will email you my info and also PM you. Thanks for the concern. I have a bad feeling about this since everybody here says they have had inhouse service. I'm lucky I wrapped the set in plastic because these guys loaded it in a van and the top of the set hit the door jamb of the van. I almost know the set will now have physical damage but maybe not. If I had not prepared the set somewhat for transport it would for sure be scratched or scrapped in someway. I took some photos last night as evidence, hopefully I wont need them.

I look forward to any assistance you can provide.

Thanks again.

When you say “overscan” are you saying that your picture does not completely fill the screen when you are using the component connection with the X360? In your estimation you're saying you had about 6-8% of blank screen? (If so, wouldn’t that be called “underscan?”) My component connection with the X360 appears perfect to me; it fills the screen completely. Hmmm…. Which model Samsung do you have?

Yes, it fills the screen and like every other source has some overscan (some image cropped on the sides). When the XBOX is hooked up with component, I have a pretty typical overscan of around 3-4% on each side (so a total of around 6-8%). However, when hooking it to the VGA, you can use the TV's stretch/size controls to get the overscan down to 0 overscan in both directions. The XBOX doesn't put any important stuff in this area but there is more picture out there that is being drawn in the 3D environments.

As an owner of a 6178 as of tomorrow (on truck for delivery), does anyone know if I can connect an old RCA DTC100 Hi Def tuner with a VGA output into the VGA port on the TV? And, most importantly, will this give me a 1080i signal, a better signal, an inferior signal or no signal at all?

I have RCN cable in Allentown. The guide info appears to come from Philly FOX Channel 29 (RCN Cable channel 5), not from a PBS station.

There is a TVGOS forum in the "Rear Projection" section here. There are posts in there which describe how to get the TVGOS Diagnostic Screens. The channel being used by TVGOS is shown in the diagnostic screens.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=510125&page=31&pp=30

wbertram - thanks for the link! The system menu access code works as advertised on the HL-R6768W. (Open the TV Guide screen, go to setup, and highlight Change System Settings. While this is highlighted press "753159852" this will get you into a series of menus...)

I can confirm that Philly FOX Channel 29 is the host channel for OTA as well. That's not to say that it's the only station, but it's the one that was used. Reported in the menu as Host Chan: 1:0-29. Same for VBI Chan: 1:0-29.

I didn't have time to try the actual diagnostics screens (Go to MENU, SETUP, INSTALLATION, SYSTEM STATUS, SYSTEM INFORMATION and while the PRODUCT INFORMATION window is displayed type in 3570 and you will get to a SYSTEM DIAGNOSTICS menu), but will do so ASAP when I have more time.

Well, after doing a 2 hour showdown at Fry's using various sources, I returned my 5078 for a 50" SXRD. So, I'm off to the SXRD boards. I wanted to believe in the Samsung so badly because I just don't like those SXRD dumbo ears.

IMO, most of this is subjective and you can't really get a solid opinion without using the set for a few days on real content. But some aspects are not subjective. I found two movies that clearly show color banding or blotchies on the Samsung - and they don't show up on the SXRD. In the opening 10 seconds of finding Nemo, the Sammy displayed the waving blue ocean as blue waving stripes. The Sony displayed them as a smooth blue-scale of waving ocean. Even with I turned off DNIE (at home), these blue bands are annoyingly visible. This isn't just a minor nit, my wife and neighbor both independently pointed them out. Also, on chapter 10 of Star Wars episode 3, the skin tones of Anakin look flat and blotchy. Not so with the SXRD. Bottom line, I don't like either picture in either DNIe setting.

After about 15 minutes of this showdown, I had a developed a following in the store including two families looking to make a purchase on one vs the other. Quite comical. I kept my mouth shut on which I preferred and all 5 people came down on the Sony.

I still think the Sammy has a great picture and could be calibrated to look great, but what's the point of going through that hassle?

Hello, I just recently upgraded from a 61inch 720p Samsung to the HLR 6168. I watch dvd's thru HTPC. I noticed the banding on Nemo on the 720p set and was really curios how the 6168 would handle it so i went and rented it. To my surprise there is no banding anywhere in NEMO using my HTPC. I was so amazed that i watched the whole movie looking for it and there was none that i could find and i was really looking hard for it. My children were even looking for it because they remember me complaining about it on the 720p Sammy and they couldnt find it either.

Can someone please help me. I have 2 big questions that are probably much simpler than building the HTPC that i built but i have no clue about.

1) How do you calibrate your DLP sets? I have seen color bars on certain channels ect that people say they use. If i have colorbars what do i do with them. Do i go into the service menu and pull up some color bars and compare them to the ones i saved to my PVR? I have looked for some kind of bars in the set and have no clue where they are and how to change them to match anything. Greyscale is also something i hear people adjusting with calibration disks. Where in my tv is the grey scale bars?
2) Ive never seen OTA on my set. I have STB running to the tv via component. How do i get OTA? I know i can buy some kind of antenna and stick in there, then how do i tune in the channels if it finds any. Can i split my cable going into the STB and run one into the OTA input on the tv and pull OTA like that? Totally confused about it, and dont want to go get some antenna and later find out that there is no OTA channels in my area. Anchorage, Alaska. How do you make the tv see the channels once you hook up the antenna or split cable if that works?
Thanks in advance for your help.

You can calibrate your TV by purchasing Avia or Digital Video Essentials DVD, and following instructions on the DVD. Avia should be easier to use than DVE. For a lot more money, you can get an external SpyderTV gismo, and use it to calibrate your TV. For even more money, you can have a professional ISF technician come to your home, and calibrate your TV. He will go into the service menu. Perhaps, you shouldn't on your own.

OTA stands for Over the Air. Your TV has a built-in ATSC tuner that will receive OTA channels. You should first examine the following thread to find out if you actually have any OTA programming in your area:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=293771&highlight=Anchorage

The signal that comes through your cable cannot be processed by the ATSC tuner. However, your TV also has another tuner for cable programming. It's a QAM tuner. So, you can plug the cable directly into the TV (no point in splitting), and find out how the built-in QAM tuner compares in quality with your set-top box. Chances are the built-in tuner will have better picture quality especially on standard programming. You will also eliminate any potential audio lag that your STB based set-up may have. Cablecard will allow you to receive encrypted channels that are part of premium packages and that you may be currently getting via your STB.

The only reason why you might want to split the cable would be to feed one end into your HTPC for which you can purchase a TV tuner card, and then use your HTPC to record TV programming. You can use tuner cards based on ATI Theater 550 chip for standard definition programming, and Fusion or MyHD cards for QAM based HD programming.

If you decide to pursue OTA (assuming it's available in your area), you will need an antenna. Once you hook it up, you should go through channel set-up in your TV and choose OTA. The built-in tuner will scan all available channels. It is very simple. You may want to read the manual a little bit.

Hi All,
If I get a Blu-ray player or something that can output 1080p in the future, what will happen is I show it on a HLR5078w? Will it downconvert and then be upconverted on the TV? Will it even show or work at all?

Thanks
NastyNate

I thought TVA had a no questions asked return policy (shipping charged if you just returned, no shipping charge if you bought another TV).
This policy didn’t work for me. TVA asked me to pay shipping fee in addition to price difference when I wanted to exchange my defective 6768 for 7178. And it was in range of 30 days trial period. So I decided to stay with 6768 and now Samsung is fixing it.

I tried turning down the contrast and brightness all the way to zero, and it helped some, but it is still unbearably bright and washed out. You can’t adjust color with PC input, only contrast and brightness; all other settings are grayed out.

I’m not the only one experiencing this with HDTV’s; check out this thread:

http://www.hdtvarcade.com/hdtvforum/viewtopic.php?t=3604




Hmmm, I'll give it a try, but I didn't think it would help since I turned down the contrast and brightness all the way and it only marginally helped; and those are the only two settings it lets you adjust. But if you got it to work it gives me hope! :)

Ok, I’m an idiot!! I can’t believe I never tried using the Digital Video Essentials disk (which I have) with the X360 to tune the VGA connection. I ignorantly assumed that the Video Essentials disk would not help if I had already tried turning down both the contrast and the brightness to zero with no success. I obviously did not comprehend the true roles that contrast (white level) and brightness (black level) have on the picture and their relationship with each other.

After running the DVE calibration tests I found that setting contrast at 100 and brightness at 14 was the proper calibration and it fixed my problems. (Actually, on these DLP sets, I’m not sure how accurate the DVE contrast test is since you can peg the contrast to 100 every time and it never gets close to bleeding the top two white shaded boxes together.) The picture is now virtually as good as the component connection. The component connection still yields much deeper blacks, but I actually think there is something wrong with the component cables now!!! Even after calibrating both the component and the VGA connections to pass the DVE tests, and then comparing the picture between the two while playing PDZ; the component connection yields very dark areas…too dark….where its just black in the game…..while the VGA connection yields dark areas but you can still see details in those areas…….more of a shadowing effect instead of pure black where everything melds together and you can’t distinguish any details in those black areas. Keep in mind that this is even when I have calibrated both connections with DVE….where they both give the same results in the DVE tests, but then yield different results while playing the same game……so theoretically both should yield the same results…but they don’t. I actually think the VGA cable now is producing a picture that is closer to what is intended by the game. (With the DVE disk and my HL-R6168W, with the VGA cable you can only calibrate contrast and brightness, the other settings are grayed out; with componenet cables, you can calibrate Contrast, Brightness, and Color…….tint is grayed out, and there is no perceivable difference in the picture quality when tuning sharpness from 0 to 100….I don’t think you can calibrate sharpness with the DVE disk on a DLP TV).

Furthermore, I’m pretty sure that I notice quicker response time when using the VGA cable….less lag or unperceivable lag. I tested this simply by looking at my crosshair in PDZ and then quickly pushing the right thumbstick left or right to rotate the view. With the component connection I notice a brief lag time from when I hear the “click” of the thumbstick hitting the plastic casing (when it is quickly pushed all the way to the left or right) to the time I see the crosshair start moving across the screen. Doing this with the VGA connection from the time I hear the “click” of the thumbstick it seems closer to instantaneous that the screen starts to rotate.

Yes, it fills the screen and like every other source has some overscan (some image cropped on the sides). When the XBOX is hooked up with component, I have a pretty typical overscan of around 3-4% on each side (so a total of around 6-8%). However, when hooking it to the VGA, you can use the TV's stretch/size controls to get the overscan down to 0 overscan in both directions. The XBOX doesn't put any important stuff in this area but there is more picture out there that is being drawn in the 3D environments.

Ok, well you can see above that I now have my picture quality working well through the VGA connection (thanks for reminding me to try the DVE disk....I can't beleive I dismissed trying that beforehand) :rolleyes:

I see what you mean about the overscan now.

With my HL-R6168W and the Xbox 360 VGA output set to 1280X768:
When I adjust my picture size until the left and right side of the displayed picture just does fill the screen, I still have a small, say about ¼” black bars on the top and bottom. If I fill the screen from top to bottom, then I’ll be giving up a small portion of the left and right edges to overscan off of the screen. Are these the same results that you get? Which model TV do you have?

For now, I am leaving it set so that the left and right edges just do fill the screen and then I have the ¼” black bars at top and bottom. How about you?

I have a quick question...

I've got DVD and HD cable boxes connected to TV via HDMI. Also have digital audio outs to my Receiver. I know how to use interal mute on the TV, but that is a global change, so I'm screwed if I don't want/need surround all the time.

Okay, here is the question...

Is there anyway to stop the sound from the TV on specific inputs?

On a side note, this really helped me ensure that I had the right delays set on my Feltson unit.

Thanks,

Neil

Has anyone seen the Ad Window panes populated when any TV advertisements? These Ad Window panes only seem to be occupied with the TV Guide Logo and Instructions. I thought the intended use of the Ad Windows within the TV Guide On Screen was for the TV Ads.

I thought the whole point of the 360 was 1080? Maybe not all games are 1080 yet? Shouldn't there be settings on the 360 for picture adjustments?

I don't know for sure since I don't have my PC connected right now but it looks like there is a difference in VGA when changing the Mode and I assume Color Tone. I guess it would be better to have a PC connected and adjust the VGA input to closely match your PC first and then connect a video game system.

I thought the whole point of the 360 was 1080? Maybe not all games are 1080 yet? Shouldn't there be settings on the 360 for picture adjustments?

I don't know for sure since I don't have my PC connected right now but it looks like there is a difference in VGA when changing the Mode and I assume Color Tone. I guess it would be better to have a PC connected and adjust the VGA input to closely match your PC first and then connect a video game system.

The component cables for the X360 can be set to either 720P or 1080i. The VGA cables only have resolution settings….the highest two options are 1280X768 and 1360X768; even when set to 1360X768 the HL-R6168W still reports that it is only receiving/displaying 1280X768 however.

I am in the process of assembling an HTPC and I plan to do exactly as you’re saying once I get it finished (hopefully this weekend).

The component cables for the X360 can be set to either 720P or 1080i. The VGA cables only have resolution settings….the highest two options are 1280X768 and 1360X768; even when set to 1360X768 the HL-R6168W still reports that it is only receiving/displaying 1280X768 however.

I am in the process of assembling an HTPC and I plan to do exactly as you’re saying once I get it finished (hopefully this weekend).


I would set the XBOX to 1280x720. This is it's native internal ressolution and is the correct aspect ratio for our tv's. This resolution will eliminate any black bars you have (once you have zoomed it out a notch). The other resolutions are for supporting different PC Montor resolutions.

I thought the whole point of the 360 was 1080? Maybe not all games are 1080 yet? Shouldn't there be settings on the 360 for picture adjustments?

I don't know for sure since I don't have my PC connected right now but it looks like there is a difference in VGA when changing the Mode and I assume Color Tone. I guess it would be better to have a PC connected and adjust the VGA input to closely match your PC first and then connect a video game system.

AFAIK, the XBOX's internal HD resolution is always 1280x720. It does upconvert to 1080i but from reading on other forums, this appears to do it via 540p and to me does not look as good. Also, right now, the XBOX doesn't have any picture adjustements that I can find. Maybe they will add it in a future release but since most PC montiors have it, I will not hold my breath.

Geez, first I wish I had time for a video game system. I have two PC games and really don't play them much. Max Payne 1 and OEM Splinter Cell. I keep waiting for "The" system so now it looks like I'm waiting for a HDMI system with 1080 with a HD-DVD player included. Let me know when that's shipping. Lol.

I've connected a home brew HTPC with an Nvidia 6800-GT to a 5668 via VGA. The Nvidia 6800 presents 1920 1080 @ 60Hz as a viable scan option but the default horizontal timing parameters are suboptimal (only 2/3 of the screen is filled, vertical is correct). Can someone post a working set of timings for this card (under winxp)?

Furthermore, I’m pretty sure that I notice quicker response time when using the VGA cable….less lag or unperceivable lag. I tested this simply by looking at my crosshair in PDZ and then quickly pushing the right thumbstick left or right to rotate the view. With the component connection I notice a brief lag time from when I hear the “click” of the thumbstick hitting the plastic casing (when it is quickly pushed all the way to the left or right) to the time I see the crosshair start moving across the screen. Doing this with the VGA connection from the time I hear the “click” of the thumbstick it seems closer to instantaneous that the screen starts to rotate.

I can't find the post now, but I thought I read in these forums that the VGA connector bypasses (or at least comes after) the DNIe processing and virtually eliminates any lag that may be caused by picture processing. Can anyone confirm that?

On a side note, I finally ordered the 5688 and it should be arriving on Monday. I can't wait! I'll be using it a lot with the Xbox 360, so I'll report back on what I see. I definitely plan on using the VGA connection. I read in the manual that on "Game Mode" (which is supposed to be used for video game systems to help eliminate lag) you can only use the AV, Component or S-Video connections and the maximum resolution is 480i. That makes no sense to use it when the 360 outputs at 720p. I had bought the VGA cable to use with a spare monitor in the meantime anyway, so I'll just use that with the tv as well and hopefully will see good results (and no lag).

For anyone that uses the Comcast HD/DVR tuner box, what connections are you using to your Sammy 1080p tv? Does the tuner box come with an HDMI cable, or does that need to be purchased separately? Is that connection the best way to go?

I've connected a home brew HTPC with an Nvidia 6800-GT to a 5668 via VGA. The Nvidia 6800 presents 1920 1080 @ 60Hz as a viable scan option but the default horizontal timing parameters are suboptimal (only 2/3 of the screen is filled, vertical is correct). Can someone post a working set of timings for this card (under winxp)?

Did you put the TV in "Wide PC" mode instead of "4:3"?

I've connected a home brew HTPC with an Nvidia 6800-GT to a 5668 via VGA. The Nvidia 6800 presents 1920 1080 @ 60Hz as a viable scan option but the default horizontal timing parameters are suboptimal (only 2/3 of the screen is filled, vertical is correct). Can someone post a working set of timings for this card (under winxp)?

You may not have to do anything. You are using PC Wide and not 3 x 4? In PC Wide, you can adjust the VGA screen on the Samsung. The instructions are in the manual.

I've connected a home brew HTPC with an Nvidia 6800-GT to a 5668 via VGA. The Nvidia 6800 presents 1920 1080 @ 60Hz as a viable scan option but the default horizontal timing parameters are suboptimal (only 2/3 of the screen is filled, vertical is correct). Can someone post a working set of timings for this card (under winxp)?

If it's not the PC Wide mode as others have suggested, it is probably your VGA cable. You can try entering the timings specified in you tv's manual or get a cheap VGA cable so the tv and card can communicate proper timings.

I can't find the post now, but I thought I read in these forums that the VGA connector bypasses (or at least comes after) the DNIe processing and virtually eliminates any lag that may be caused by picture processing. Can anyone confirm that?

On a side note, I finally ordered the 5688 and it should be arriving on Monday. I can't wait! I'll be using it a lot with the Xbox 360, so I'll report back on what I see. I definitely plan on using the VGA connection. I read in the manual that on "Game Mode" (which is supposed to be used for video game systems to help eliminate lag) you can only use the AV, Component or S-Video connections and the maximum resolution is 480i. That makes no sense to use it when the 360 outputs at 720p. I had bought the VGA cable to use with a spare monitor in the meantime anyway, so I'll just use that with the tv as well and hopefully will see good results (and no lag).

For anyone that uses the Comcast HD/DVR tuner box, what connections are you using to your Sammy 1080p tv? Does the tuner box come with an HDMI cable, or does that need to be purchased separately? Is that connection the best way to go?


It was videopark (I think) who said that he looked at the schematic and it seemed to him that the VGA connection was after the video processing circuitry. I can't confirm that myself but what I can indeed confirm is that with the VGA connection and DVD playing on my laptop at 1920x1080 @ 60Hz, there is NO lag where there is definite lag with the same DVD on my Oppo.

As for the Comcast/Moto HD-DVR box, I am using COmponent cables because the f/w version on it has a bug with HDMI where recorded programs are not sent in DD5.1 to the AVR. I will start using HDMI when they upgrade my DVR to the right f/w version. And no, the HDMI cable doesn't come with the DVR - you have to buy it. I bought mine from Radioshack for $12.99 (hopefully its good enough).

Good luck and congrats on the purchase! :)

It was videopark (I think) who said that he looked at the schematic and it seemed to him that the VGA connection was after the video processing circuitry. I can't confirm that myself but what I can indeed confirm is that with the VGA connection and DVD playing on my laptop at 1920x1080 @ 60Hz, there is NO lag where there is definite lag with the same DVD on my Oppo.

:)

If that is the case then I wonder why you can still adjust the video processing parameters for the PC connection when you log into the service menu? For instance, these parameters for disabling DNIe are listed and can be turned off or on for the PC input:

1. Enter the service menu by pressing "mute, 1, 8, 2, power" within a second of one another while the TV is turned off.
2. Once in the service menu, use the arrow keys to go to the "DNIe" page and right click.
3. Once in the DNIe page, turn each of the following parameters in the first column to the "OFF" position.

SNI_PROC_CEA
SNI_PROC_CEP
SNI_PROC_DEP
SNI_PROC_DCE
SNI_PROC_CCS
SNI_PROC_BWS
SNI_PROC_PCC
SNI_PROC_WTE
SNI_PROC_CTE

That's it! No more DNIe!

It was videopark (I think) who said that he looked at the schematic and it seemed to him that the VGA connection was after the video processing circuitry. I can't confirm that myself but what I can indeed confirm is that with the VGA connection and DVD playing on my laptop at 1920x1080 @ 60Hz, there is NO lag where there is definite lag with the same DVD on my Oppo.

As for the Comcast/Moto HD-DVR box, I am using COmponent cables because the f/w version on it has a bug with HDMI where recorded programs are not sent in DD5.1 to the AVR. I will start using HDMI when they upgrade my DVR to the right f/w version. And no, the HDMI cable doesn't come with the DVR - you have to buy it. I bought mine from Radioshack for $12.99 (hopefully its good enough).

Good luck and congrats on the purchase! :)

Thank you for the info and the congrats. And thanks to everyone here in the forums for the advice and encouragement over the past few weeks. I'm really looking forward to finally stepping into the world of HDTV - it's long overdue!

Even though I know (now) that Monster Cable products are overrated, I do have some of their THX component cables I could use with the Comcast/Moto box in the meantime until the firmware is updated. I'm not sure how I'll connect my DVD player yet, but I'll look into some DVI -> HDMI cables for that. I've heard Monoprice is a good site for cables.

Speaking of the Comcast/Moto box - do you split the cable and send the SD channels separately to the tv bypassing the box and use the box for HD, or do you use the box for both SD & HD?

Thank you for the info and the congrats. And thanks to everyone here in the forums for the advice and encouragement over the past few weeks. I'm really looking forward to finally stepping into the world of HDTV - it's long overdue!

Even though I know (now) that Monster Cable products are overrated, I do have some of their THX component cables I could use with the Comcast/Moto box in the meantime until the firmware is updated. I'm not sure how I'll connect my DVD player yet, but I'll look into some DVI -> HDMI cables for that. I've heard Monoprice is a good site for cables.

Speaking of the Comcast/Moto box - do you split the cable and send the SD channels separately to the tv bypassing the box and use the box for HD, or do you use the box for both SD & HD?

1. The f/w issue may not be relevant to you because Comcast may give you the box with the right f/w already (I think you need 12.22+ version). Don't bother talking to any Comcast CSR about this - they won't have a clue. :)

2. Yes, monoprice.com is a good place to get cables from.

3. I have the Moto 6412 Mark III which has excellent SD capabilities. So, no I don't split the cable - don't need to.

I would go HDMI for cable since it is the only component that is HD, also probably the most used component. I got a good 3' cable at RAM. The $12 one at R/S sounds like a good deal and you don't have to wait for delivery.

This is a gratuitous yet useless post to get me over the 5 post limit so I can say....

Dunno if this has been posted elsewheres but Samsung sent me an e-mail today with a link to this promo and PDF:

http://product.samsung.com/nfl/

http://product.samsung.com/pdf/nfl/nfl_rebate.pdf

Basically, if you bought a set (or buy one) between Nov 1 and Dec 31 you get a DVD-R120 for free. Not the most exciting product, I know, but free is free. Good to have a spare around I guess if the tivo dies...

My problem with 1080p and nvidia was resolved by changing cables.

This is a gratuitous yet useless post to get me over the 5 post limit so I can say....


I had to do the same thing for my first post here. Posted four pointless posts in a thread so that I could post hyperlinks..

I've got a question on the HDMI connections for the Sammy 1080p's. I'll assume they have the same (or similar) connections on the rear panel. The 5688 has two HDMI inputs, but only one of which says HDMI/DVI, whereas the other one just says HDMI. Does this mean that I could only use one DVI -> HDMI cable for one of my other components (DVD player or HDTV/DVR box)? Or can I use a second DVI -> HDMI cable for the other HDMI input? I'm thrown by the fact only one says HDMI/DVI and the other is just labeled HDMI in the manual. That makes me think the second one is only for an HDMI -> HDMI cable. Does anyone here use two DVI -> HDMI cables on the back of their 1080p? I'm just wondering if I need to pick up a second cable so I can utilize both connections or if I'm limited to one.

Hi, I am considering buying the HLR5668W (1080p) DLP TV but before I do, I have the following questions, please help me answer them so I can make a decision. I opened a thread before and got no replies - so please!

1. The 5667W has 720p and 5668W has 1080p native resolution respectively? As I understand, most HD broadcasting today is either 720p or 1080i? Not sure really how many programs air in 1080i. So would the 1080p DLP model stretch out the 720p or 1080i broadcastings to show in 1080p, would that mean some quality is lost in format conversion to 1080p? Would I be better off watching HD in 720p 5667W or would it be better to watch 720p/1080i source in the 1080p 5668W model?

2. I see pixelation, blurred image when scenes change quickly in HD content. This is seen more in 1080p than 720p model and also saw it in 3LCD RP Sony. Is it something that you always see in RPTVs? I noticed this in BestBuy today.

Thanks very much. Please reply asap so I can make a decision and buy my TV asap.

raysranga - Go for 1080p. You are missing one important factor here. Product maturity. The 1080p sets are the latest and greatest designs and contain all of the product improvements / software updates.

The majority of the broadcast material is 1080i. ESPN is 1080i. INHD is 1080i. FOX and ABC are the only broadcasters I know that use 7220p because it's somewhat better for sports.

Don't get concerned about the differences. Let the TV do the scaling and just watch the picture. I just upgraded from a CRT and yes, I do see some motion blur and artifacting. But, this is just one of many factors to consider and does not detract from the otherwise outstanding picture quality. I just got my HL-R6768W last weekend and am still amazed every time I turn it on.

The reliability of the latest generation DLP displays are exceeding the predictions. In other words, you don't need an extended warranty. Samsung includes the bulb as part of the standard factory warranty.

Do what I did. Use a credit card that extends the factory warranty, such as American Express (Buyer's Assurance plan), and you will get 2 years of coverage for free.

For sure go for the 1080p. None of the BestBuy here actually show HD, usually they use cable which is highly compressed (low quality), so you can expect to see blur, and the details in the 1080p will show more of a bad picture - because the set is receiving a bad picture. Once you see the 1080p OTA on live CBS sports you will know why you have it! The broadcasters still use less compression than anybody, hence the consistently better picture.

The reliability of the latest generation DLP displays are exceeding the predictions. In other words, you don't need an extended warranty. Samsung includes the bulb as part of the standard factory warranty.


Just out of curiosity, how can you say that, with any certainty, when the latest generation of DLP HDTV’s (1080P) has only been out for about 3-months now?

I've got a question on the HDMI connections for the Sammy 1080p's. I'll assume they have the same (or similar) connections on the rear panel. The 5688 has two HDMI inputs, but only one of which says HDMI/DVI, whereas the other one just says HDMI. Does this mean that I could only use one DVI -> HDMI cable for one of my other components (DVD player or HDTV/DVR box)? Or can I use a second DVI -> HDMI cable for the other HDMI input? I'm thrown by the fact only one says HDMI/DVI and the other is just labeled HDMI in the manual. That makes me think the second one is only for an HDMI -> HDMI cable. Does anyone here use two DVI -> HDMI cables on the back of their 1080p? I'm just wondering if I need to pick up a second cable so I can utilize both connections or if I'm limited to one.

I believe you can use a DVI-HDMI cable for both inputs but only the "HDMI2/DVI" input has a separate audio input. The "HDMI1" input expects audio to be sent in through the same HDMI port. If you use a DVI-HDMI cable for "HDMI1", you can't use the TV's speakers ,ie. you need to use external amp and speakers.

I've got a question on the HDMI connections for the Sammy 1080p's. I'll assume they have the same (or similar) connections on the rear panel. The 5688 has two HDMI inputs, but only one of which says HDMI/DVI, whereas the other one just says HDMI. Does this mean that I could only use one DVI -> HDMI cable for one of my other components (DVD player or HDTV/DVR box)? Or can I use a second DVI -> HDMI cable for the other HDMI input? I'm thrown by the fact only one says HDMI/DVI and the other is just labeled HDMI in the manual. That makes me think the second one is only for an HDMI -> HDMI cable. Does anyone here use two DVI -> HDMI cables on the back of their 1080p? I'm just wondering if I need to pick up a second cable so I can utilize both connections or if I'm limited to one.

Since DVI does not carry an audio signal, the DVI/HDMI input has an audio input associated with it. HDMI carries both video and audio. If you plan to use the TV’s internal speakers with a DVI to HDMI connection you will also need to use the DVI audio input associated with the HDMI 2/DVI input. You can use either of the HDMI inputs with a DVI to HDMI cable as long as you are not planning to use the TV’s internal speakers for both inputs.

For sure go for the 1080p. None of the BestBuy here actually show HD, usually they use cable which is highly compressed (low quality), so you can expect to see blur, and the details in the 1080p will show more of a bad picture - because the set is receiving a bad picture. Once you see the 1080p OTA on live CBS sports you will know why you have it! The broadcasters still use less compression than anybody, hence the consistently better picture.
ESPN and ESPN2 are also 720P. All Disney(ABC, ESPN, ESPN2) owned stations that broadcast in HD use 720P.

Except for WFAA in Dallas which broadcasts 1080i. They are an ABC affiliate (but the parent company also owns CBS affiliates and standardized on 1080i). So while the ABC programming originates in 720p, it is converted to 1080i for broadcast in the Dallas/Ft. Worth market.

You are technically correct, however as WFAA is not owned by Disney.

DirtyDozen, I would see if you can upgrade a cable box or something to HDMI?

Hi all!,
I own a Sammy 6168. Love the set, it is my first true HD widescreen! Here's my problem...I use the set pimarily as an HTPC via the VGA input. I output to the set's native rez using PC wide. There is a tilt to the picture display in the vga mode. It is like looking at a picture frame that is tilted slightly down simular but not as extreem as this angle "/" Is there a way via the service menue to adust the geometry to compensate for this tilt? My old crt had a tilt adustment that worked great when I used it as an HTPC monitor. This tilt is only occuring in the vga output. Thanks in advance!

Hi all!,
I own a Sammy 6168. Love the set, it is my first true HD widescreen! Here's my problem...I use the set pimarily as an HTPC via the VGA input. I output to the set's native rez using PC wide. There is a tilt to the picture display in the vga mode. It is like looking at a picture frame that is tilted slightly down simular but not as extreem as this angle "/" Is there a way via the service menue to adust the geometry to compensate for this tilt? My old crt had a tilt adustment that worked great when I used it as an HTPC monitor. This tilt is only occuring in the vga output. Thanks in advance!


There is no tilt adjustment in the service menu. Only available options are shifting the image horizontally or vertically. I think many of the Samsung 1080p DLP's tend to have some sort of tilt. Mine has a tilt sloping down from left to right. The cross hatch pattern in the Service menu shows the issue.

Hi all!,
I own a Sammy 6168. Love the set, it is my first true HD widescreen! Here's my problem...I use the set pimarily as an HTPC via the VGA input. I output to the set's native rez using PC wide. There is a tilt to the picture display in the vga mode. It is like looking at a picture frame that is tilted slightly down simular but not as extreem as this angle "/" Is there a way via the service menue to adust the geometry to compensate for this tilt? My old crt had a tilt adustment that worked great when I used it as an HTPC monitor. This tilt is only occuring in the vga output. Thanks in advance!
The only tilt adjustment available is detailed in section 3-6-1 of the service manual (mine is for the 78 series). It involves loosening the DMD board screws and physically moving it while the crosshatch pattern is displayed from DDP1011 (L8) in the service menu. The TV is energized so care needs to be taken around the electronics.

Thanks for the reply but I really don't want to tear apart my Sammy to do that. This tilt affect is slight but noticable. Plus, it only does this in Windows via the VGA imput. I surprised there is not a geometry adjustment somewhere in the service menue.

I've got a question on the HDMI connections for the Sammy 1080p's. I'll assume they have the same (or similar) connections on the rear panel. The 5688 has two HDMI inputs, but only one of which says HDMI/DVI, whereas the other one just says HDMI. Does this mean that I could only use one DVI -> HDMI cable for one of my other components (DVD player or HDTV/DVR box)? Or can I use a second DVI -> HDMI cable for the other HDMI input? I'm thrown by the fact only one says HDMI/DVI and the other is just labeled HDMI in the manual. That makes me think the second one is only for an HDMI -> HDMI cable. Does anyone here use two DVI -> HDMI cables on the back of their 1080p? I'm just wondering if I need to pick up a second cable so I can utilize both connections or if I'm limited to one.

This has probably been answered already, but the reason HDMI2 is labled HDMI/DVI is because it has to audio inputs associated with it. If you use your AVR for audio you can definately attach two DVI devices. I was screwing around with mine the other day and right now my Oppo is on HDMI1 and it works fine.

Edit: Yep I'm a little slow this week.

Hi all!,
I own a Sammy 6168. Love the set, it is my first true HD widescreen! Here's my problem...I use the set pimarily as an HTPC via the VGA input. I output to the set's native rez using PC wide. There is a tilt to the picture display in the vga mode. It is like looking at a picture frame that is tilted slightly down simular but not as extreem as this angle "/" Is there a way via the service menue to adust the geometry to compensate for this tilt? My old crt had a tilt adustment that worked great when I used it as an HTPC monitor. This tilt is only occuring in the vga output. Thanks in advance!

Can you not adjust the tilt with your video card driver software from the HTPC?

Can you not adjust the tilt with your video card driver software from the HTPC?

The artifacts from such a "digital rotation" would probably be pretty awful. Much like the digital keystone abilities of many front projectors. The scaling artifacts that adds usually make a better hardware alignment preferable.

To all of you who responded about the HDMI/DVI inputs, thank you. That was my guess that I could use both for video as long as I was sending audio to my AVR (which I will be), so that's what I was hoping to have confirmed. I will then be hooking both the HD/DVR box and my DVD player to the tv with DVI -> HDMI cables and the audio to the AVR. I'm connecting the Xbox 360 with the VGA cable.

All this assumes that the DVI signal is a better one for video quality than component...correct? That's what I was assuming, but I thought I'd ask to be sure.

To all of you who responded about the HDMI/DVI inputs, thank you. That was my guess that I could use both for video as long as I was sending audio to my AVR (which I will be), so that's what I was hoping to have confirmed. I will then be hooking both the HD/DVR box and my DVD player to the tv with DVI -> HDMI cables and the audio to the AVR. I'm connecting the Xbox 360 with the VGA cable.

All this assumes that the DVI signal is a better one for video quality than component...correct? That's what I was assuming, but I thought I'd ask to be sure.

Hi All,
If I get a Blu-ray player or something that can output 1080p in the future, what will happen is I show it on a HLR5078w? Will it downconvert and then be upconverted on the TV? Will it even show or work at all?

Thanks
NastyNate

Hi All,
If I get a Blu-ray player or something that can output 1080p in the future, what will happen is I show it on a HLR5078w? Thanks
NastyNate

I would set the output of the player to match the input requirements of your set. If your device can ONLY output 1080p, then you would use the VGA connector. If the VGA output was not available and you couldn't change the device output to anything other than 1080p60, you wouldn't see anything on your set.

Blu-Ray will not output 1080P over analog(VGA) outputs. Our only option with next gen discs will be to input 1080i over HDMI into the set or replace the set with next years models which will accpet 1080P over the HDMI. Unless we get lucky and Samsung offers some sort of upgrade for us, but I wouldn't expect it, but you never know.

I just finished King Kong last night as well, I didn't notice lag with it either but that is not a timing sensitive game that you typically would. It’s the FPS’s that I’m off on.


I played around with turning DNIe off by this method last night:

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1. Enter the service menu by pressing "mute, 1, 8, 2, power" within a second of one another while the TV is turned off.
2. Once in the service menu, use the arrow keys to go to the "DNIe" page and right click.
3. Once in the DNIe page, turn each of the following parameters in the first column to the "OFF" position.

SNI_PROC_CEA
SNI_PROC_CEP
SNI_PROC_DEP
SNI_PROC_DCE
SNI_PROC_CCS
SNI_PROC_BWS
SNI_PROC_PCC
SNI_PROC_WTE
SNI_PROC_CTE

That's it! No more DNIe!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

And I didn’t really notice a difference, but I should probably test it out more extensively.

PGR3 however, I would think would be a little more timing sensitive, such as lag causing you to over-steer or something…..so I probably should play around with turning DNIe off while playing these FPS’s and see how it goes. One thing that I determined, however, is that I do like DNIe enabled for watching TV or any HD programming. In computer generated signals from games it may not make much difference in the quality of the picture, but I definitely like the difference in the quality of the picture it gives when watching TV.

After reading many posts here suggesting that no DNIe produces a better image I tried it and am not convinced that it does. It does improve the black saturation problems I had, but it seems to degrade the "3d" quality of the HD image. If you turn off DNIe how do you then regain the "snap" and " 3d qualities that seem to make HD stand out? What am I missing here?

All this assumes that the DVI signal is a better one for video quality than component...correct?It's simple. Component is analog so if you use it the digital source material has to be converted to analog. Then the source has to be converted back to digital. That's a no win situation.

Source Joe Kane.

It's simple. Component is analog so if you use it the digital source material has to be converted to analog. Then the source has to be converted back to digital. That's a no win situation.

Source Joe Kane.

What you say is true in THEORY--i.e., that a HDMI or DVI connection to a digital display should give better PQ than a Component connection--but it is not always true in PRACTICE. The best thing to do is to try it for yourself, with your specific equipment, to see if you see any difference.

After reading many posts here suggesting that no DNIe produces a better image I tried it and am not convinced that it does. It does improve the black saturation problems I had, but it seems to degrade the "3d" quality of the HD image. If you turn off DNIe how do you then regain the "snap" and " 3d qualities that seem to make HD stand out? What am I missing here?

I agree. I think some kinda get on the "DNIe is bad" bandwagon without actually doing A/B comparisons to see how they personally like the PQ changes. I've mucked around with a few of these and ended up with settings that are a mix of on and off within the DNIe menu.

Converting a digital signal to analog and back to digital might be "theoretical" but add to that the component cables used are analog and will accept interference. Only the highest quality cables "theoretically" insulate the signal from interference and the longer the length the more likely to have it. I would also add having a digital audio signal with HDMI vs. analog. I also like having one HDMI cable vs. five analog. I know some here seem to say they prefer analog but like Millerwill mentioned, the only way to know for sure is to try it yourself.

bcvp: FWIW, I do use digital audio cables from my cable stb and dvd player to my AVR. And the (3) Component cables for video from the cable stb to the tv are 3 ft long.

About the DNIe feature,

No offence to anyone (every one has their own preference)!!

I received my TV HLR6768w two days ago, I spent about 10 hrs adjusting this TV (I am a very picky person to a perfect picture; being a video service tech for 15 years of my life). I also have just purchased a 32” HD LCD a month prier and have two identical Dish Network 6000 receivers.

I can tell you for a fact that the artifacts one sees on these TV’s is the source (Period), not the DNIe feature at all(again please no offence to anyone)!!!!!!!

What people are used to is blurry pictures (NTCS- analog) again no offence to anyone (every one has their own preference)!!!

So I tried to turn off the DNIe feature; because I too saw these problems that people are seeing and was almost ready to return this set, so I started to play with DNIe. I noticed jagged edges on the HD Discovery station, so I tried to turn off DNIe to only find out that it would bluer the picture and blacks would look whiter (basically the picture would look like an analog tube TV, crap in my opinion and the jagged edges no where near noticeable). I then said maybe there is no problem with this DNIe feature at all and just maybe it works like it is designed to, so I went over to my 32” HD LCD to look for these artifacts in the source (that I never noticed before) and to my surprise they were there!!! (No way at all noticeable as to the 67” Samsung; because WE ARE BLOWING UP THE PICTURE people so guess what, you see everything BIG (faces, cars, trees, and SOURCE DEFECTS)

I also tried the Finding Nemo in both of these and I found the banding (does not bother me; just curious what all the complaining is all about) in the water (I did not see any banding on a regular analog TV; remember analog = very low resolution), so guess what people, these 1080p Samsung sets are prefect with DNIe on, in fact I turned on one of the DNIe features that was off from the factory besides leaving all the rest on that where originally on, without DNIe on, this set is no better than any other. Remember turning DNIe off just Blurs the picture to hide the problems in the source, I would rather see these minor (major on some channels) artifacts in the source material and get an awesome (perfect blacks, and 3-D like) picture, than a picture that is hazy, blurry, no black’s; but again it is personal preference!!!!!!!!!!!

I read that the new Sony plays Finding Nemo with no banding, if that is the case then people, these 1080p Samsungs are the best, nothing at that point will or can compare; because they are just blurring the picture. I did not spend this much to get an average TV picture or I would have just stuck to an analog TV!! Again no offence to anyone (every one has their own preference)!! When I bought mine the store had my 67” right on the side of the 60” Sony and the 67” looked just as good (not saying too much for Sony now; the Sony should have been better, being smaller, but they were identical picture wise from the same source; no Finding Nemo in sight to test)

As far a viewing distance, someone posted some link to viewing distances; People please take that with a grain of salt. My set 67” and they say 8’ (they do not tell you) IF THE SOURCE IS PERFECT, do we have perfect source material on everything we watch, NO, so guess what you NEED TO SIT BACK A LOT FURHER THAN THEY SUGGEST!!!!!!! Back far enough so these signal problems are minimal (try sticking your head right up to the set, they will really stand out).

This picture really stands out with DNIe on and is as close to Perfect as any 67” TV can be!!!!! This is in my opinion the best TV by far you can buy today!!!!!!! Do not compare a 42” to a 67”, the 42” will not show source defects as much as the big 67” will!

The only thing poor with this set is the TV tuner, my 6000 does a lot better of a job pulling in local analog and digital stations.

Hope this helps
Don

I noticed jagged edges on the HD Discovery station, so I tried to turn off DNIe to only find out that it would bluer the picture and blacks would look whiter (basically the picture would look like an analog tube TV, crap in my opinion and the jagged edges no where near noticeable).


With all due respect Don, you lost me on this one. "blacks look whiter", "like an analog tube TV". Your talking about a CRT right? Blacks don't get any better than CRT. I know my 7178 doesn't come close, with or without the DNIe.

Cary

PS. Let me modify that. The black level actually does get close, but shadow detail is a mess compared to CRT. This is my first digital set so I chalk it up to the technology (DLP) used.

Yes Blacks do look good on some CRTs but not all, anyway as with CRTs and analog signals they looked great up to about 20-25” screens (some bigger but the analog signal was not meant to be displayed on higher sets due to the low signal resolution coming in), so when you start blowing up to lets say 60” analog CRT projection you see all the artifacts in the source material and they look blurry compared to 20” .
Well this same type applies to HD TV but you are starting out with (lets say 1080i) now TV’s up to 32’ and 42” look great but when you see them on a 67” or 71”up you see all the artifacts that you would never had noticed with a 32”. Like I said in my original post no offence to anyone (every one has their own preference)!!
In your case you have a great analog tube TV as I still do but my blacks on my 67” Samsung are so close I can not see that difference (maybe you’re not adjusting properly or a bright room). In your case (I assume) you can see the artifacts more with DNIe on and like I stated that is because this feature enhances the details and when you enhance anything you enhance the bad with the good. With artifacts a company has two option, give you a enhanced big picture (67” or 71) with artifacts from the source that they can not control or bluer the picture (distort) in some way, shape, or form to hide these artifacts (but also degrades the picture). Samsung chose to enhance the picture and succeeded without any new added distortion that I can find (I compared it to my 32” and it was very hard to see but it was there, the same artifacts that is, but a lot smaller and my head up to the screen, because it is a smaller screen)

Again there are a lot of different sets out there I am only stating a general, some or none of this may or may not apply to you.

No offence to anyone
Thanks
Don



The voom channels that Dish Network use are outstanding If and when all the rest of the stations go to 1080 lets hope they do (use) what VOOM has done, then all your artifacts will be gone (or not noticeable).

Blu-Ray will not output 1080P over analog(VGA) outputs. Our only option with next gen discs will be to input 1080i over HDMI into the set or replace the set with next years models which will accpet 1080P over the HDMI. Unless we get lucky and Samsung offers some sort of upgrade for us, but I wouldn't expect it, but you never know.

According to their specs, Blu-Ray will not record 1080p60 to disk. The best frame rate for movies is 1080p24, of course.

I don't know if the Samsung will accept 1080p24 in the HMDI connector. But since that is an ATSC format, we can hope it will.

The HDMI travels through a Sil9021 chip and then to an ATI Xilleon 226 chip. Those who want to do the research can determine if those chips can process a 1080p60 signal.

According to their specs, Blu-Ray will not record 1080p60 to disk. The best frame rate for movies is 1080p24, of course.

I don't know if the Samsung will accept 1080p24 in the HMDI connector. But since that is an ATSC format, we can hope it will.

The HDMI travels through a Sil9021 chip and then to an ATI Xilleon 226 chip. Those who want to do the research can determine if those chips can process a 1080p60 signal.
There is fact.......and then there is this post.......Urban legend

The Blu-Ray specs do not list 1080p60. They do list 1080p24 and 720p60.

"BD-ROM is designed not only for pre-packaged High Definition (HD) movie content but also as a key component of a consumer HD platform."
© Blu-ray Disc Association, March 2005
18/45
4.3 Video streams
Video streams shall be MPEG-2 video format (ISO/IEC 13818-2) compliant, MPEG-4 AVC video format
(ISO/IEC 14496-10) compliant or SMPTE VC-1 video format compliant.

The video formats shown in Figure 4-3 can be used for BD-ROM video streams.

MPEG-2: MP@HL and MP@ML
MPEG-4 AVC: MPEG-4 AVC: HP@4.1/4.0 and MP@4.1/4.0/3.2/3.1/3.0
CODECS
SMPTE VC-1: AP@L3 and AP@L2
Max. bitrate 40Mbps
HD
1920x1080x59.94-i, 50-i (16:9)
1920x1080x24-p, 23.976-p (16:9)
1440x1080x59.94-i, 50-i (16:9) MPEG-4 AVC / SMPTE VC-1 only
1440x1080x24-p, 23.976-p (16:9) MPEG-4 AVC / SMPTE VC-1 only
1280x720x59.94-p, 50-p (16:9)
1280x720x24-p, 23.976-p (16:9)

SD
720x480x59.94-i (4:3/16:9)
720x576x50-i (4:3/16:9)

From: http://www.blu-raydisc.com/Section-13890/Index.html

I've had my 6168 for about 2 months. The following problem occurs occasionally:

In the morning when I turn on the TV, the audio comes on but the screen is blank. If I turn off then turn on again, the video will appear immediately.

My questions are:

1. Has anyone experienced this problem?

2. Did you find out why it happened?

3. How was it resolved?

Thanks.

According to their specs, Blu-Ray will not record 1080p60 to disk. The best frame rate for movies is 1080p24, of course.

I don't know if the Samsung will accept 1080p24 in the HMDI connector. But since that is an ATSC format, we can hope it will.

The HDMI travels through a Sil9021 chip and then to an ATI Xilleon 226 chip. Those who want to do the research can determine if those chips can process a 1080p60 signal.

Since up-converted 1080i HDMI DVD players are widely available, I speculate that HD-DVD/Blu-ray players will output 1080i through 3:2 pull-down from 1080p24 source. 1080p TVs will combine the fields and display 1080p60. Occasionally a movie can have clips shot with an interlaced camera (e.g. sports footage). These clips may be stored as true 1080i data on the HD-DVD disc.

No, I haven't seen this with my 6168. I have Comcast cable connected directly to the built-in TV tuner.

What input is your problem occuring on?
Does it occur on every channel (SD and HD)?
What happens if you change inputs?
Are you using STB? Can you try using the built-in tuner instead to troubleshoot?
What if you were to play a DVD movie immediately after you notice blank picture accompanied by audio? What happens after you later switch back to TV?

Can you do some troubleshooting along these lines, and post back the results? Thank you.

I've had my 6168 for about 2 months. The following problem occurs occasionally:

In the morning when I turn on the TV, the audio comes on but the screen is blank. If I turn off then turn on again, the video will appear immediately.

My questions are:

1. Has anyone experienced this problem?

2. Did you find out why it happened?

3. How was it resolved?

Thanks.
Is it possible that when you turn off the TV the night before that you don't actually turn it off, but just turn off the component you were using? The screen would look black all night. Then the next morning when you turn everything on it turns off the TV, but you hear sound because the component and the receiver are now on. The TV comes on immediately on the second power-up because it has been on all night and the lamp is still warm.

No, I haven't seen this with my 6168. I have Comcast cable connected directly to the built-in TV tuner.

What input is your problem occuring on?
Does it occur on every channel (SD and HD)?
What happens if you change inputs?
Are you using STB? Can you try using the built-in tuner instead to troubleshoot?

It was OTA HD or SD channels. I was using the built-in tuner. I don't know which channel was selected when the problem occurs.

What if you were to play a DVD movie immediately after you notice blank picture accompanied by audio? What happens after you later switch back to TV?

Can you do some troubleshooting along these lines, and post back the results? Thank you.

I'll try to switch to DVD next time it happens.

Is it possible that when you turn off the TV the night before that you don't actually turn it off, but just turn off the component you were using? The screen would look black all night. Then the next morning when you turn everything on it turns off the TV, but you hear sound because the component and the receiver are now on. The TV comes on immediately on the second power-up because it has been on all night and the lamp is still warm.

The scenario you descibe is highly unlikely. I turn off my system using a macro. I have to point the remote at the system until all three components, TV, DVD, and receiver, are all turned off sequentially. I always make sure the TV is off.

Also, when the TV is off, the row of red lights at the bottom of the front on/off button are on. When the screen goes blank as I described none of lights around the on/off button is on. This indicates that the TV is on.

Another thing, when I said the TV comes on immediately after turning off then on, the display is dim initially as it happens when the screen warms up.

I also have a question about failures, in particular those that have had a light engine replaced. What sort of screen behavior did you see with bad light engines? My 6168 has been flawless, but I have a 5688 that was DOA. Taken apart, put back together and "sort of" started working without any part changes. But within 30 minutes it will lose picture on half the screen or half the screen goes to a frozen black and white image, while the other half is normal.

Asking because I'm waiting for a light engine to be shipped to the tech, but want to be sure this is my issue.

the legend (urban) continues.....should be a warning, put on your thigh high waders before reading

The Blu-Ray specs do not list 1080p60. They do list 1080p24 and 720p60.

"BD-ROM is designed not only for pre-packaged High Definition (HD) movie content but also as a key component of a consumer HD platform."
© Blu-ray Disc Association, March 2005
18/45
4.3 Video streams
Video streams shall be MPEG-2 video format (ISO/IEC 13818-2) compliant, MPEG-4 AVC video format
(ISO/IEC 14496-10) compliant or SMPTE VC-1 video format compliant.

The video formats shown in Figure 4-3 can be used for BD-ROM video streams.

MPEG-2: MP@HL and MP@ML
MPEG-4 AVC: MPEG-4 AVC: HP@4.1/4.0 and MP@4.1/4.0/3.2/3.1/3.0
CODECS
SMPTE VC-1: AP@L3 and AP@L2
Max. bitrate 40Mbps
HD
1920x1080x59.94-i, 50-i (16:9)
1920x1080x24-p, 23.976-p (16:9)
1440x1080x59.94-i, 50-i (16:9) MPEG-4 AVC / SMPTE VC-1 only
1440x1080x24-p, 23.976-p (16:9) MPEG-4 AVC / SMPTE VC-1 only
1280x720x59.94-p, 50-p (16:9)
1280x720x24-p, 23.976-p (16:9)

SD
720x480x59.94-i (4:3/16:9)
720x576x50-i (4:3/16:9)

From: http://www.blu-raydisc.com/Section-13890/Index.html

Hi when will we get an official response from Samsung on the issues brought up on this thread ? Thank you for all your efforts.

Remember turning DNIe off just Blurs the picture to hide the problems in the source, I would rather see these minor (major on some channels) artifacts in the source material and get an awesome (perfect blacks, and 3-D like) picture, than a picture that is hazy, blurry, no black’s; but again it is personal preference!!!!!!!!!!!

Surely you know that when you change something like DNIe that mucks with black levels, you need to recalibrate brightness and contrast. You'll find you get your perfect (and now STABLE without DNIe) blacks back if you do that properly.

Turning of DNIe does NOT "blur" the picture. I've put up test patterns with single pixel wide stripes, etc. and you can make out the individual rows of pixels (when you force it into 1:1 pixel mapping mode in the service menus). Absolutely no alteration of the source image at all. Then you turn on DNIe and it adds all kinds of edge enhancement artifacts that make things that should be out of focus all sharp and crisp and "3D", but not like they were intended.

You are certainly welcome to prefer the DNIe "enhanced" images, but they are that, altered and enhanced. Turning of DNIe reveals the original source material. Turning it on alters it.

I've tested all image settings and discovered everything looks better with Dnie on with my HLR5087W. Everything looks blurry when compared side by side which I think is a great feature to have and makes it easy to see the difference.

In regards to Finding Nemo widescreen DVD, I just watched it last night and it looked beautiful. However, I did see some banding in certain scenes. The same banding I get when playng the movie on my computer at 16 bits instead of 32. Are there any adjustments one has to make to fix that or is this common to all DLP's playing this movie?? I will run the computer using HDMi at 32 bits playing the movie to see if that gets rid of it, however I have a feeling it is a universal problem since all other DVD's I have play and look perfect.

Using my D* HD Tivo, I had it set on 1080i to feed my 6168. Viewing the menu screens on Tivo, I notices some poor upconversion. I changed the Tivo to 480i and got a much better picture letting the Samsung do the upconversion. Since the Samsung is a much newer design than the Tivo, it isn't surprising that it would upconvert better.

Any similar observations?

It was videopark (I think) who said that he looked at the schematic and it seemed to him that the VGA connection was after the video processing circuitry. I can't confirm that myself but what I can indeed confirm is that with the VGA connection and DVD playing on my laptop at 1920x1080 @ 60Hz, there is NO lag where there is definite lag with the same DVD on my Oppo.


Right. It enters the circuit after the chip that processes the DNle.

"If that is the case then I wonder why you can still adjust the video processing parameters for the PC connection when you log into the service menu? For instance, these parameters for disabling DNIe are listed and can be turned off or on for the PC input"

Check to see if those settings actually do anything to the PC input. I have read that the DNle has no effect on the PC VGA input. According to the digital board block diagram, the VGA does not enter the DNle.

I've tested all image settings and discovered everything looks better with Dnie on with my HLR5087W. Everything looks blurry when compared side by side which I think is a great feature to have and makes it easy to see the difference.

In regards to Finding Nemo widescreen DVD, I just watched it last night and it looked beautiful. However, I did see some banding in certain scenes. The same banding I get when playng the movie on my computer at 16 bits instead of 32. Are there any adjustments one has to make to fix that or is this common to all DLP's playing this movie?? I will run the computer using HDMi at 32 bits playing the movie to see if that gets rid of it, however I have a feeling it is a universal problem since all other DVD's I have play and look perfect.

Supermans,
If you are using the DNIe demo to evaluate DNIe you are not getting an accurate representation. The demo feature was likely added for sales people to show off DNIe but it is not an true representation of what its doing. The only way to accurately see what DNIe is doing is to follow Cheezmo’s advice and turn off the individual DNIe features in the Service Menu, while observing the proper test pattern.
I would at least turn off SNI_PROC_BWS. If you don’t turn this item off, the darker steps in a gray scale test pattern will run together “black crush”, whenever you change inputs. In order to get all the gray scale steps back to where it was calibrated you need to change the picture mode back and forth after changing inputs.

I also have done a number of DNIe tests and I think that leaving most of the DNIe values "on" does sharpen the picture considerably. If you have a DVR, it is very easy to conduct a test that reflects this. What I did was pause my picture on a scene that also contains some written words. I then entered the SM and when I disabled a number of the DNIe values, the written words got considerably more blurry - it was analogous to changing the resolution on my PC monitor from 1280x1024 to 800x600. I should add that it was only about two or three of the DNIe values that had this effect. With most of the other values, I couldn't notice any change. I should also add that there was one DNIe value that I did change to "Off" - the BWS setting. Turning that to "Off" provided much better black level detail. As for all the other values, I changed them back to the factory defaults which IMO provides a better picture. This most likely is a personal thing and people should conduct their own tests to see which picture they like better. If you do that though, I strongly recommend that you test it with a picture that includes written words on the screen.

Does anyone have a quick list of the factory defaults for the DNIe settings?

Try it with a test pattern like the HDNet pattern. You will see what DNIe actually does to the picture and it is not good. Now that I have the Velux over foamcore panels in my Samsung, along with DNIe permanently disabled, the black levels are astounding and the picture produced without DNIe is very sharp. Eliab performed a ring focus which makes a huge difference in the sharpness of the picture. I'll take my calibrated picture without DNIe any day over any picture with DNIe on. There is just no comparison in the clarity of the picture without DNIe. If anyone has a chance to get their 1080P Samsung calibrated from Eliab(my only experience is with him)then I would recommend you jump at that opportunity.

Is it possible to have an ISF calibration done on the VGA input? Does the VGA input share the same menu as either of the HDMI inputs?

After a review of this thread, I'm looking to explore options for using an iscan HD+ into a HLR5078 through the VGA input. I'm not too concerned with HDCP since my sources are currently analog @ 480i. Someone tried it a few months ago and it didn't immediately work. He did indicate that he didn't put alot of effort into it so I'm going to try when the TV arrives. So, it's important to me to know if the VGA can be calibrated the same as the other inputs.

Does anyone know why I get an "unsupported signal" message when I connect my DTC100 to the VGA port? Connection by transcoder (component) works fine. I also changed the VESA setting in the menu to short (VGA). Since this is the only STB that has VGA out, I thought this would be interesting to see how it performs.

Try it with a test pattern like the HDNet pattern. You will see what DNIe actually does to the picture and it is not good. Now that I have the Velux over foamcore panels in my Samsung, along with DNIe permanently disabled, the black levels are astounding and the picture produced without DNIe is very sharp. Eliab performed a ring focus which makes a huge difference in the sharpness of the picture. I'll take my calibrated picture without DNIe any day over any picture with DNIe on. There is just no comparison in the clarity of the picture without DNIe. If anyone has a chance to get their 1080P Samsung calibrated from Eliab(my only experience is with him)then I would recommend you jump at that opportunity.

My set was calibrated and I agree that the picture is much better post calibration. However, after the calibration I also did the HDNet test pattern test and played with the DNIe values in the SM, but for me, other than the "BWS" value (which I believe is the most significant setting affecting black level), I like what DNIe does to the picture and IMO disabling DNIe blurs the picture. In any event, for the most part this is personal preference and people should use whatever settings make the picture look better to them.

Here's a simple question:

Since each connection has its own ‘memory’ for its video settings, then when you calibrate your TV with the DVE disk with your DVD player that is hooked up through component, then what do you do for calibrating your other connections? Such as for your DirecTV box connected to the TV through HDMI? Do you just copy the settings over to that connection or what?

Supermans,
... I would at least turn off SNI_PROC_BWS. If you don’t turn this item off, the darker steps in a gray scale test pattern will run together “black crush”, whenever you change inputs. In order to get all the gray scale steps back to where it was calibrated you need to change the picture mode back and forth after changing inputs.

Turning off SNI_PROC_BWS does not fix the dynamic range issue that happens when switching inputs but it does seem to help with the blacks in general. Some people reported it as a fix but equally as many said it doesn't fix the problem.

Bill, any update from Samsung regarding the dynamic range issue?

Does anyone have a quick list of the factory defaults for the DNIe settings?

Here are the defaults from my 6168:

SNI_PROC_CEA ON
SNI_PROC_CEP OFF
SNI_PROC_DEP ON
SNI_PROC_DCE ON
SNI_PROC_CCS ON
SNI_PROC_BWS ON
SNI_PROC_PCC ON
SNI_PROC_WTE ON
SNI_PROC_CTE OFF
SNI_PROC_CVD …
SNI_PROC_OUTP ON

Turning off SNI_PROC_BWS does not fix the dynamic range issue that happens when switching inputs but it does seem to help with the blacks in general. Some people reported it as a fix but equally as many said it doesn't fix the problem.

It would be interesting to know if the people that still have the problem are sure that they turned off SNI_PROC_BWS for every input/scan rate that they switch between and also calibrated the brightness level for each input/scan rate involved. The setting is not global but must be disabled for all the different inputs/scan rates that it has a separate value for.

I have yet to see one where it didn't fix it but with Samsung and all their different firmware revisions, you just never know how any one might behave.

Im sure Eli's Ring Focus can work wonders , However many indivuduals purchased this Diplay because of DNle, not despite it, and Samsung I would think would want to officially comment on the situation, especially in light of the Cnet Review.

Personally Im very happy with my TV, and even though I know my way around the service menu, the average consumer should not have to do this, and while we all have theories , which may turn out to be true , what we need are facts.

It would be interesting to know if the people that still have the problem are sure that they turned off SNI_PROC_BWS for every input/scan rate that they switch between and also calibrated the brightness level for each input/scan rate involved. The setting is not global but must be disabled for all the different inputs/scan rates that it has a separate value for.

I have yet to see one where it didn't fix it but with Samsung and all their different firmware revisions, you just never know how any one might behave.
I have definitely turned off SNI_PROC_BWS for every input and have done it separately for 1080i/720p (although when I turned it off for one component input, that made it go off for the other input as well as for each resolution type - the same was the case for HDMI) and I can report that this definitely does NOT fix the dynamic range issue. I have run many tests on this and by adjusting the subcontrast and subbrightness, I've now gotten it to a point that it is barely noticeable when I switch from any input to HDMI 1, however, it is quite noticeable if I switch from some inputs to HDMI 2. If I change some settings I can get it to act differently with different inputs (i.e., it'll occur on HDMI 1 instead of HDMI 2), but I have not found a way to eliminate it completely. I can also say that this is a replacement 5668 and I did the exact same tests, with the exact same results, on my prior 5668. The only thing I'm not sure of is what you mean by changing the setting for each "scan rate involved".

By scan rate, I mean 480i/480p/720p/1080i. 480p and 1080i on the same input may have different service mode settings. Sounds like you have that covered.

For anyone who might care, this link is to a posting I made some time ago that has an attached PDF containing al of the default service menu values that I had on my 6168 when I received it. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6049568&&#post6049568 Good luck with any changes you make. :)

Try it with a test pattern like the HDNet pattern. You will see what DNIe actually does to the picture and it is not good. Now that I have the Velux over foamcore panels in my Samsung, along with DNIe permanently disabled, the black levels are astounding and the picture produced without DNIe is very sharp. Eliab performed a ring focus which makes a huge difference in the sharpness of the picture. I'll take my calibrated picture without DNIe any day over any picture with DNIe on. There is just no comparison in the clarity of the picture without DNIe. If anyone has a chance to get their 1080P Samsung calibrated from Eliab(my only experience is with him)then I would recommend you jump at that opportunity.
Eliab is coming tomorrow to install the panels and calibrate my 5078. The PQ is very good to my untrained eye now except for black/dark scenes. Once I've gone through the process with Eliab, I'll post my review.

I've had my 6168 for about 2 months. The following problem occurs occasionally:

In the morning when I turn on the TV, the audio comes on but the screen is blank. If I turn off then turn on again, the video will appear immediately.

My questions are:

1. Has anyone experienced this problem?

2. Did you find out why it happened?

3. How was it resolved?

Thanks.
Mine does this periodically. Next time just change the channel vs turning the set on/off.

I have not figured out what may cause this but so far it only has happened about 10 times since July so its not a big deal to me.

I'm getting a 56" Samsung 1080i set (I'm excited!) and I'd like to be able to display my PC on it. I've searched the threads and am a bit confused about the best way to go. Should I buy a dual-VGA video card so I can use the VGA port and still use the monitor in my office? Or should I use the DVI output on the video card I have? Which will give me better screen resolution, or does it matter? Also do I need to muck with timings on the video card to get it to display properly?

I'm getting a 56" Samsung 1080i set (I'm excited!) and I'd like to be able to display my PC on it. I've searched the threads and am a bit confused about the best way to go. Should I buy a dual-VGA video card so I can use the VGA port and still use the monitor in my office? Or should I use the DVI output on the video card I have? Which will give me better screen resolution, or does it matter? Also do I need to muck with timings on the video card to get it to display properly?

You mean you must be getting a 1080P set right? (This is the owner's thread for 1080P sets)

Oh yeah, and the VGA port is the only port that can accept a 1080P signal; so that's the port you want to use.

I'm getting a 56" Samsung 1080i set (I'm excited!) and I'd like to be able to display my PC on it. I've searched the threads and am a bit confused about the best way to go. Should I buy a dual-VGA video card so I can use the VGA port and still use the monitor in my office? Or should I use the DVI output on the video card I have? Which will give me better screen resolution, or does it matter? Also do I need to muck with timings on the video card to get it to display properly?

I just hooked up a Radeon 9200. I have two computers that I use a standard VGA KVM on so I'm kinda stuck with VGA only. That said, the Radeon is currently hooked up to my 5068 and through the KVM to my LCD computer monitor on two separate connectors. In this situation there are no timing problems to worry about, everything is at 60hz. From what I know you will not get better resolution using by using the DVI out on your card.

Does anyone know why I get an "unsupported signal" message when I connect my DTC100 to the VGA port? Connection by transcoder (component) works fine. I also changed the VESA setting in the menu to short (VGA). Since this is the only STB that has VGA out, I thought this would be interesting to see how it performs.

My recollection is that the DTC-100 had non-standard timing, but I don't remember the details.

It would be interesting to know if the people that still have the problem are sure that they turned off SNI_PROC_BWS for every input/scan rate that they switch between and also calibrated the brightness level for each input/scan rate involved. The setting is not global but must be disabled for all the different inputs/scan rates that it has a separate value for.

I have yet to see one where it didn't fix it but with Samsung and all their different firmware revisions, you just never know how any one might behave.

SNI_PROC_BWS is off on the only two inputs I use (VGA and HDMI1) but the problem still persists. I went as far as to turn it off on the Antenna input as well, which is unused but can still be cycled through. I can safely say turning off SNI_PROC_BWS does not fix the problem for my 6168 with the earliest firmware.

Mine does this periodically. Next time just change the channel vs turning the set on/off.

I have not figured out what may cause this but so far it only has happened about 10 times since July so its not a big deal to me.

Im not sure it your sets are exhibiting the same problems as mine but I will warn you to not cycle the power before a complete start up cycle. I did and now according to my new service manual, I need a new DMD board. The shop actually took my set in for service where it's still sitting. Today when I called, the tech hadn't looked at it. My 6768 was acting funny like that and sometimes it wouldn't start up and the lamp light would flash. A restart would get it going again, then It finally quit and it would flash the lamp light(no picture or menu) until it shut down on its own.

I will be writing Samsung a lengthy letter describing my situation and my discontent with my 1 month old TV giving up the ghost. I hope it works out.

One thing to point out is that from the service manual, it looks like an easy swap for the DMD board. I would describe it akin to a PC main board swap. So it should be an easy fix if the part is available. These TVs really are serviceable in the home; you can fix them on the spot if you have the parts. The light engine for my set lists for 1798.00 so I wouldn't want to pay for one (get insurance). I looked up the price for the DMD board and its 498.00. I don't know if that includes the main DLP chip or not. I hope you all have better luck than I did. :(

Im not sure it your sets are exhibiting the same problems as mine but I will warn you to not cycle the power before a complete start up cycle. I did and now according to my new service manual, I need a new DMD board. :(

Are you saying that your set broke because you turned off the power before the set had a chance to fully power-up and initialize?

If so, this sounds like a serious design flaw... if their electronics cannot handle this they should have designed it to ignore power-off commands until the power-up cycle is complete.

Regardless, how did you figure out what caused your set to fail? Is this coming from the "qualified" (?) tech you have working on it? Based on your previous posts, I wouldn't trust that guy.

Try it with a test pattern like the HDNet pattern. You will see what DNIe actually does to the picture and it is not good. Now that I have the Velux over foamcore panels in my Samsung, along with DNIe permanently disabled, the black levels are astounding and the picture produced without DNIe is very sharp. Eliab performed a ring focus which makes a huge difference in the sharpness of the picture. I'll take my calibrated picture without DNIe any day over any picture with DNIe on. There is just no comparison in the clarity of the picture without DNIe. If anyone has a chance to get their 1080P Samsung calibrated from Eliab(my only experience is with him)then I would recommend you jump at that opportunity.


I'm glad to hear that. Eliab is coming to calibrate my set next week and I can't wait to see the improvement. The picture is already better than good (except for black levels), so it's hard to believe that the improvement will be that significant, but based on the reports from those who have had it calibrated, I'm pretty excited about the possibilities.

Did you see improvement across the board (HD, SD, DVD)?

You mean you must be getting a 1080P set right? (This is the owner's thread for 1080P sets)

You're right, its a 1080P set. The 1080i is what's going to come from the Comcast cable receiver.

Thanks everyone for the replies.

Hi all. I just thought I'd update you on my new tv. The 5688W just arrived! I thought it would get here Monday, but the freight carrier it was transferred to here in the Seattle area didn't get it out until today. It's been a looooong wait, but it's finally over. Once I get it set up and do some viewing I'll come back with my impressions, including playing Xbox 360 on it via VGA.

Fortunately all the Monoprice cables I ordered came today also, so that's perfect. I also got an Ideal-Lume tube for behind the tv and a Belkin PureAV PF30 power conditioner. I was expecting the power conditioner to be about the size of a regular surge protector, but boy was I surprised when it showed up and was about two feet by five inches and weighed a ton. It should be a nice addition, though. I also ordered the AVIA calibration DVD, but that hasn't arrived yet (darn Media Mail - it takes forever!).

Speaking of size, the tv and box was so big I had to surgically remove the box from around the tv rather than just being able to pull the tv out. Pretty funny.

Anyway, I'm just glad it's here - now I've got to get back to setting it up so I can watch some HDTV!

Hi all. I just thought I'd update you on my new tv. The 5688W just arrived! I thought it would get here Monday, but the freight carrier it was transferred to here in the Seattle area didn't get it out until today. It's been a looooong wait, but it's finally over. Once I get it set up and do some viewing I'll come back with my impressions, including playing Xbox 360 on it via VGA.

Fortunately all the Monoprice cables I ordered came today also, so that's perfect. I also got an Ideal-Lume tube for behind the tv and a Belkin PureAV PF30 power conditioner. I was expecting the power conditioner to be about the size of a regular surge protector, but boy was I surprised when it showed up and was about two feet by five inches and weighed a ton. It should be a nice addition, though. I also ordered the AVIA calibration DVD, but that hasn't arrived yet (darn Media Mail - it takes forever!).

Speaking of size, the tv and box was so big I had to surgically remove the box from around the tv rather than just being able to pull the tv out. Pretty funny.

Anyway, I'm just glad it's here - now I've got to get back to setting it up so I can watch some HDTV!

Congrats! I know the feeling having just gone through this myself a couple of months ago. :-)

I have finally made my HL-R5078 to output DD 5.1 sound from its optical out. Following is the way I had my setup:
Scientific Atlanta 8300HD --FireWire--> HL-R5078W --Toslink optical--> Yamaha Receiver

Once the cables were connected, I turned on the units and pressed the D-Net button on the TV's remote control. This brings up a side menu of the FireWire devices currently detected. I scrolled down to the SA 8300HD in this menu and selected it. At that point, the TV switches its AV input to the FireWire port.
I pressed Exit on the remote and started enjoying an HD movie shown in Showtime channel with full 5.1 Dolby Digital decoding done on my receiver.
I hope this setup works for other people as well.

Are you saying that your set broke because you turned off the power before the set had a chance to fully power-up and initialize?

If so, this sounds like a serious design flaw... if their electronics cannot handle this they should have designed it to ignore power-off commands until the power-up cycle is complete.

Regardless, how did you figure out what caused your set to fail? Is this coming from the "qualified" (?) tech you have working on it? Based on your previous posts, I wouldn't trust that guy.

I posted what happened to my set and I think another member said it's not a good idea to cycle the power. My comments and thoughts were the same as yours and that if these sets are that picky then it's obviously a major design problem. My set exhibited some slow starts from the begining so It could have possibly been bad from the start. It's just speculation at this point until other people start having the same issues.

I ordered a Samsung repair manual and went through the trouble shooting section and thats how i determined the problem. I knew that
The lamp turned on
The color wheel was spinning up
The fans were running
Still no picture, sound , nothing
At that point it said to replace the DMD board which is the board where the DLP chip resides. That baord is where all the video processing is happening along with other processes. I am sort of guessing but my guess is that the tech will come to the same conclusion. My fear is that the tech might try to repair the board which would be crazy in my opinion and not acceptable to me.

I'm in the process of talking to Samsung about it and I'm going to try to negotiate for an exchange. I can't send it back to TV Authority because at day 31 it's yours regardless if it burns up in a firey heap. So seriously consider before buying from a .com. If it had been a brick and mortar I would have exchanged the set already and my problem would be solved. :(

I'm in the process of talking to Samsung about it and I'm going to try to negotiate for an exchange. I can't send it back to TV Authority because at day 31 it's yours regardless if it burns up in a firey heap. So seriously consider before buying from a .com. If it had been a brick and mortar I would have exchanged the set already and my problem would be solved. :(
I didn't have that problem with TVA... My 5668W had a bad digital board and after the tech who came out replaced the board and screwed up the PC input I gave up and called TVA... At this point I was already 7 - 10 days beyond the 30 days and they still exchanged my set without issues... The new set was shipped timely and has been working flawlessly for the last 3 months.

I posted what happened to my set and I think another member said it's not a good idea to cycle the power. My comments and thoughts were the same as yours and that if these sets are that picky then it's obviously a major design problem. My set exhibited some slow starts from the begining so It could have possibly been bad from the start. It's just speculation at this point until other people start having the same issues.

I ordered a Samsung repair manual and went through the trouble shooting section and thats how i determined the problem. I knew that
The lamp turned on
The color wheel was spinning up
The fans were running
Still no picture, sound , nothing
At that point it said to replace the DMD board which is the board where the DLP chip resides. That baord is where all the video processing is happening along with other processes. I am sort of guessing but my guess is that the tech will come to the same conclusion. My fear is that the tech might try to repair the board which would be crazy in my opinion and not acceptable to me.

I'm in the process of talking to Samsung about it and I'm going to try to negotiate for an exchange. I can't send it back to TV Authority because at day 31 it's yours regardless if it burns up in a firey heap. So seriously consider before buying from a .com. If it had been a brick and mortar I would have exchanged the set already and my problem would be solved. :(


I've seen the inside of my 5688 and the board technology used in these things today is not the type of stuff you would attempt a field repair on. Much smaller discretes and high pincount ICs which don't lend themselves to that process. The sets are much more modular than what I see on my 5 yr old Mits. If they suspect a problem with a particular circuit or subsystem on the Sammy, they replace the entire module. I'm waiting for a light engine on this particular set.

Eliab is coming tomorrow to install the panels and calibrate my 5078.

David Abrams wrote me a couple of weeks ago to say that Eliab was not going to proceed with panels for the 68 series. Does the installation of panels into a 78 series mean that he has changed his mind? Or are the two sets that different? I didn't think that they were.

Jim

He is still doing the panels on the 78 series, I was lucky in that I was the first and only for the 68 series. The 68 series is designed differently from the 78 series and it is much more time consuming and much more difficult to install them in the 68 series. He didn't realize this until we had my TV apart and he had to come back a few weeks later to finish the installation after he had the right tools and materials. He spent alot of time on it and had he known ahead of time what was involved he wouldn't have even started it. He did an excellent job on the set but I can see why he decided not to do the install on the 68 series. You need to have 2 people and it takes several hours to do it. I never got a chance to take any pictures because I had to help him half the time by holding the screen and bezel so it wouldn't fall. Apparently the 78 series doesn't have this problem and is much easier. So for those of you with the 78 series, this is definitely worth it. It does make a big difference. If Eliab knew this info a few months ago it would have definitely steered me toward the 78 series even though I don't like the shiny bezel. And thanks again Eliab for spending the extra time to finish the job, even after you realized how difficult and a major PITA it would be. Eliab is a true professional, and he went the extra mile to finish the job with his usual excellent results.

I didn't have that problem with TVA... My 5668W had a bad digital board and after the tech who came out replaced the board and screwed up the PC input I gave up and called TVA... At this point I was already 7 - 10 days beyond the 30 days and they still exchanged my set without issues... The new set was shipped timely and has been working flawlessly for the last 3 months.

Thats good to know. However, that scenario was never mentioned to me during my phone conversations with TVA. It would have been nice if they would have offered to exchange the set and I would have taken that route had they offered it.They are aware of the current situation with it being in for repairs. The first time I called them I explained in detail what was happening and was told to call Samsung, so thats what I did. You would think Samsung would do returns/exchanges on sets that fail within the fisrt few months. Now that my TV is being disassembled/reassembled, it sort makes me feel like It's refurbished rather than new. Kind of stinks because I had also purchased the Dish 942 DVR and a Sony ES 3100 DVD player for use with this TV and with the football season nearing end I was hoping to view some HDTV over the holidays.

What kind of problems did you have with your 5668? Was it the main DMD board that went bad?

You might consider moving to a bigger city!http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/images/icons/icon7.gif
Smile

I have finally made my HL-R5078 to output DD 5.1 sound from its optical out. Following is the way I had my setup:
Scientific Atlanta 8300HD --FireWire--> HL-R5078W --Toslink optical--> Yamaha Receiver

Once the cables were connected, I turned on the units and pressed the D-Net button on the TV's remote control. This brings up a side menu of the FireWire devices currently detected. I scrolled down to the SA 8300HD in this menu and selected it. At that point, the TV switches its AV input to the FireWire port.
I pressed Exit on the remote and started enjoying an HD movie shown in Showtime channel with full 5.1 Dolby Digital decoding done on my receiver.
I hope this setup works for other people as well.

What an interesting 1st post! Welcome....

I will give this a try when I get my Firewire cable back from my brother. The funny thing is that most of the lipsync issues I notice are with my DVD player and not the Moto STB....

I also have a question about failures, in particular those that have had a light engine replaced. What sort of screen behavior did you see with bad light engines? My 6168 has been flawless, but I have a 5688 that was DOA. Taken apart, put back together and "sort of" started working without any part changes. But within 30 minutes it will lose picture on half the screen or half the screen goes to a frozen black and white image, while the other half is normal.

Asking because I'm waiting for a light engine to be shipped to the tech, but want to be sure this is my issue.

I had the exact same thing happen with my 5688. Right out of the box, the tv would work fine for 30 minutes or so then the tv would split itself right down the middle with the left side working normal and the right side frozen with a black and white image. I called Samsung and they sent a repair tech out a few days later. Of course while he was at my house the tv was working fine but I had taken pictures and video of the tv so he replaced a board, no idea which on but he replaced one. The tv seemed to work fine for another hour or so and it starting having the same problem again. I called the repair tech back but since he was already out of my area he couldn't come back for a week. Once he did come back he replaced 3 different boards, everything he could replace on site without having my tv taken away and a new sent to me. When he pulled out the board with the DLP chip on it we saw the the chip was damaged. On the reflective side of the chip we saw a faint line right down the middle and the right half was a little blurry. The left side was perfect. The repair said the chip was definately ruined. Once he put the new boards and adjusted the picture, it work flawlessly and has ever since. Attached is a pic of what my tv was doing.

Did you guys ever try to "power cycle" the TV???

When I was having my cable-card installed, one of the times they turned the TV on, it had that problem you posted the picture of. The next time we turned the TV off, the cable guy turned off the TV...waited for it to shut down all the way, unplugged it, waited a minute. Plugged it back in, and turned the TV back on.

It was fine after that, and I've never seen that problem again. I have a feeling that it happened because they turned the TV off before it had totally turned on when they were installing the cablecard.

SV

That is a great pic, although it sucks to have these problems with these expensive sets. Its good for people to see. That pic shows the DLP. That is how it wobulates from left to right.

Yes, I power cycled the tv. I spoke with samsungs tech support and tried several things with them. Nothing would fix the problem. My tv was acting like this for almost three weeks while I was waiting for the repair guy to come. I could unplug the tv from the wall for an hour and the plug it back in, turn it on and the same thing would happen. Sometimes the tv would come up like the picture I posted, sometimes it would run normal for 3 hours before it would freeze. Not until the repair guy come over and pretty much gutted the tv and replaced 3 boards did it act normal. I haven't had a problem since. Now that the tv is acting normal, I need to look into getting it calibrated. Everything on my tv is set to default. I bought the Avia cal dvd, but am totally clueless on what I am doing with it.

That is a great pic, although it sucks to have these problems with these expensive sets. Its good for people to see. That pic shows the DLP. That is how it wobulates from left to right.

I have several other pics and videos of it frozen and some pics of it doing other strange stuff. But the tv hasn't given me any of these problems since the repair guy fixed it the second time.

I just finished buying a Samsung HLR-5688W 1080P DLP tv. I hooked up my xbox to the component input in the back of the tv using the Psyclone component cables that the sales rep at bestbuy suggested. But I am getting issues with lag on this television. I mean with the regular cables the lag was intense. Switching to component removed alot of the lag but it is still noticable. Should I turn off DNIe in the service menu??? My xbox is set to 480p yes;720p yes; and 1080i yes. Is anyone familiar with this television and if so what can I do to remove the lag. should I use some sort of av pack rather than straight up component cables? would VGA cables remove the lag?could the lag be from my tv having to upscale to 1080P? Is it the DNIe? I would really appreciate anyones help with this issue cause this lag is killing me playing Halo 2 on xbox live. The Picture looks freakin sweet though no doubt about that but the prettiness of the picture doesnt make me feel any better when a noob bitch slaps me playing online lol. Well the lag isnt that bad but it does hinder my gameplay.

David Abrams wrote me a couple of weeks ago to say that Eliab was not going to proceed with panels for the 68 series. Does the installation of panels into a 78 series mean that he has changed his mind? Or are the two sets that different? I didn't think that they were.

Jim

They do not do it for the 88 either.Which is very dissappointing.SO looks like iI will have to do it myself.Soon as I find the what material is recommended.

Yes, I power cycled the tv. I spoke with samsungs tech support and tried several things with them. Nothing would fix the problem. My tv was acting like this for almost three weeks while I was waiting for the repair guy to come. I could unplug the tv from the wall for an hour and the plug it back in, turn it on and the same thing would happen. Sometimes the tv would come up like the picture I posted, sometimes it would run normal for 3 hours before it would freeze. Not until the repair guy come over and pretty much gutted the tv and replaced 3 boards did it act normal. I haven't had a problem since. Now that the tv is acting normal, I need to look into getting it calibrated. Everything on my tv is set to default. I bought the Avia cal dvd, but am totally clueless on what I am doing with it.

My 6768 started doing something similar to this after tunrning it off before completely on. I was able to revive it for about 30 min if I removed the lamp housing and reseated it. It only worked a few times after that before I got the messed up screen then all green then goodbye picture.

Make sure when you turn on the set to let it power up completely before you turn it off and back on. I don't know if this is a design flaw but these sets seem very picky for the price they are charging.

this is definitely worth it. It does make a big difference.


Aaronwt,

David Abrams did offer to install the glued in velux (cloth, I think). Do you see enough see the improvement to pronounced enough to justify this more permanent type installation?

Jim

I had the exact same thing happen with my 5688. Right out of the box, the tv would work fine for 30 minutes or so then the tv would split itself right down the middle with the left side working normal and the right side frozen with a black and white image. I called Samsung and they sent a repair tech out a few days later. Of course while he was at my house the tv was working fine but I had taken pictures and video of the tv so he replaced a board, no idea which on but he replaced one. The tv seemed to work fine for another hour or so and it starting having the same problem again. I called the repair tech back but since he was already out of my area he couldn't come back for a week. Once he did come back he replaced 3 different boards, everything he could replace on site without having my tv taken away and a new sent to me. When he pulled out the board with the DLP chip on it we saw the the chip was damaged. On the reflective side of the chip we saw a faint line right down the middle and the right half was a little blurry. The left side was perfect. The repair said the chip was definately ruined. Once he put the new boards and adjusted the picture, it work flawlessly and has ever since. Attached is a pic of what my tv was doing.

Yup, that's just the picture I was getting. Fortunately the tech in my area has seen it before and is confident that the new light engine module will correct the problem. Scheduled for a replacement on Monday.

They do not do it for the 88 either.Which is very dissappointing.SO looks like iI will have to do it myself.Soon as I find the what material is recommended.

Duvetyne(sp?) I believe is the material you want. Generally available from a theatrical supply store. I have some in a bag from an earlier plan to do the inside of a Mits rear projection. Never did get around to it on that set. Maybe I'll pop the lid on this one at some point and do it here.