Hi All,
Been catching up on posts and been researching the best way to hook up an Xbox 360 to my HLR-5678. From what I gather, it sounds like the consensus is that the VGA connection provides least amount of issues with good quality. I did read on the Xbox site that certain resolutions are supported using VGA: http://www.xbox.com/en-US/hardware/xbox360/highdefdetails.htm

My question is to those using VGA, how does the picture look? Does it scale to 1080, or are you left with black bars? I am trying to confirm if I should go with the VGA vs. Component AV cable and what will yield best results with least amount of lag.

Any input you can provide would be most appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Don't confuse FPS with refresh rate. Actually there are mny standards for FPS supported by the HDTV standard 24,29.97,30, and 60. All broadcast material is at 30 full frames per second (obviously you have to deinterlace 60 half frames per second to get 30 fps full frame). Samsungs have the capability to do 1080P at 60 full frames per second. The only source for this material is from computers and game boxes. Blu-ray may have this capability, but it would double the amount of storage required so I would suspect that it would really be 30FPS with two modes, 1080i 60 half frames and 1080P 60 where each full frame is repeated twice.

The refresh rate on the Samsung is determined by the color wheel speed. It spins at 10000 rpm which means thet the screen is being refreshed 166 times a second. I take no responsiblity for any inaccuracies in the above.

I think that we're on the same page with this. I know that with 720p you get 60 new pictures/sec. With 1080i, you get 30 new pictures/sec., but with appx. twice the pixels of 720p. Where I am a little confused is on how the Sammy displays this. My guess would be that from a 1080p source it's obvious, 60FPS. But with a 1080i source, I realize that you get 60fps, odd/even 30 times each for 30 new pictures/sec. I did not know if each new picture was shown twice, 30 new pictures/sec (60 frames), or if just 30 fps were shown 1x each (30 frames). 720p must be scaled to 1080p, shown at 60 new pictures/sec.

I'm still new to HDTV, so bear with me.

Are there any calibration settings that reduce the RBE? Unfortunately, I live in a small town, and I don't think there is anyone here qualified to do an "expert calibration". I have Avia, but it doesn't seem to help much..........

I think that we're on the same page with this. I know that with 720p you get 60 new pictures/sec. With 1080i, you get 30 new pictures/sec., but with appx. twice the pixels of 720p. Where I am a little confused is on how the Sammy displays this. My guess would be that from a 1080p source it's obvious, 60FPS. But with a 1080i source, I realize that you get 60fps, odd/even 30 times each for 30 new pictures/sec. I did not know if each new picture was shown twice, 30 new pictures/sec (60 frames), or if just 30 fps were shown 1x each (30 frames). 720p must be scaled to 1080p, shown at 60 new pictures/sec.

I'm still new to HDTV, so bear with me.

Here is what I understand. If I am incorrect, I apologize in advance.

1) I know that with 720p you get 60 new pictures/sec.

It all goes back to source material. If you're watching a broadcast movie for example, since the source was recorded at 24 full frames per second (shall we now use FFPS and HFPS for half frames) the best you can hope for is 24 FFPS with frames being repeated. Same is true for other broadcast material whish is at best 30 FFPS. If you are using broadcast material via OTA, Satellite, Cable, or DVD (not Blu ray which is not generally available) the best you can get is 30 FFPS, period. 720P is really at 30FFPS from the broadcasters.

Gaming/computers up the ante. For example, gaming using DirectX on a well equipped PC can easily deliver frame rates higher than 60FFPS and at resolutions higher than 1920 X 1080. IMO, unless you are seriously into gaming or are setting up your TV as yet another computer monitor, 60FFPS is not important.

I use the Xbox 360 VGA output at 1280x1024P or 1280x720P. Either way the vga is the better output for the 360. I thought lag was eliminated with the 360 over componnet by Disabling DNIe. It wasn't peceptible to me when I disabled DNIE. But when I switched to the VGA ouput my scores on PGR3 increased. When I went back to component they decreased again and the only way I can explain it would be a slight lag that is causing my decreased scores.

How does one go about finding a local shop to come out and do an expert calibration on these Samsung 1080 DLP's?

I use the Xbox 360 VGA output at 1280x1024P or 1280x720P. Either way the vga is the better output for the 360. I thought lag was eliminated with the 360 over componnet by Disabling DNIe. It wasn't peceptible to me when I disabled DNIE. But when I switched to the VGA ouput my scores on PGR3 increased. When I went back to component they decreased again and the only way I can explain it would be a slight lag that is causing my decreased scores.
Thanks for input aaronwt. Was the graphic quality the same on both inputs? Also, the 1280 thing is throwing me off. Since we are native at 1920x1080, does the 1280 mode have bars on top/bottom of image? I am trying to understand what type of picture I will get when comparing to a 720 hd image for example.

Thanks for input aaronwt. Was the graphic quality the same on both inputs? Also, the 1280 thing is throwing me off. Since we are native at 1920x1080, does the 1280 mode have bars on top/bottom of image? I am trying to understand what type of picture I will get when comparing to a 720 hd image for example.
You can adjust the width and height of the VGA input in the picture menu so that it will fill the entire screen with little overscan. I haven't taken the time to compare the 1280x720P output to the 1280x 1024P output. It also might make a difference which game is used since some only output at 720P and some can go up to 1080i but I really need to check to see if I'm getting any extra resolution in the picture. When I get a chance I will run my test patterens on the 360 from my PC, I just need to find them and transfer them to my MCE PC for playback on the Xbox360.

It seems that 720p broadcasts, for the most part, look better than 1080i.

...

FOX & ESPN (720p) look better than CBS (1080i).

Interesting, thanks for sharing. At least in my particular situation, my observations have led me to believe the exact opposite. When I watch an NFL game on CBS HD, for example, the picture quality looks stunning to me. It's crystal clear, "three-dimensional," if you will, with minimal edge artifacts. It's a nice, tight picture that makes me weep with joy every time I see it.

However, when I watch Monday Night Football (or tonight's bowl games) on ABC HD, I'm seeing some pretty distracting scaling/deinterlacing artifacts (I'm assuming that's what they are). Still shots look fine for the most part, but even slight motion reveals thick stair-stepping along edges or lines that follow certain angles. "Stair-stepping" may not be quite the right description for what I'm seeing, since it often appears as if edges are being revealed though a slightly offset series of horizontal bars -- hence my assumption that I'm seeing a poor job of scaling (and deinterlacing?) the 720p signal. It's extremely obvious when viewing wide shots of the football field, where certain yard lines are clean and others are not.

I've tried it both ways and got the same results: Forcing the 8300HD to convert to 1080i before sending to the display, and then allowing the 5078 to receive the 720p signal and do its own conversion.

Three questions:

1) Is anyone else seeing the same thing?

2) Is anyone reasonably clear on exactly how the 68/78/88 series sets are converting from 720p to 1080i/p? Is it dropping resolution to 540p first (oh how I hope not, but that's almost what it looks like), then doubling to 1080p? I'm sure the math is not fun, but I would love to know what it's really doing.

3) If both the display and the cable box are unable to do a better job of scaling up from 720p to 1080i, is my only option for improvement to pony up for an external scaler?

I'm sending Time Warner through an SA8300HD -- set to deliver all signals at 1080i -- via component to my HLR-5078. Set is using Movie picture mode, DNIe is turned off, gamma is set to 0, all other SM options have been left untouched. By the way, the problem was just as evident before I made my SM changes. I've self-calibrated as best I could with DVE, and other than the above issue, I'm very happy with the PQ of my Sammy.

Thanks for any insight.

Interesting, thanks for sharing. At least in my particular situation, my observations have led me to believe the exact opposite. When I watch an NFL game on CBS HD, for example, the picture quality looks stunning to me. It's crystal clear, "three-dimensional," if you will, with minimal edge artifacts. It's a nice, tight picture that makes me weep with joy every time I see it.

Most CBS stations do not multicast so all the bits go to the main HD picture. Here in LA, all the other stations have something else on their channel. CBS is doing a good job in HD.

However, when I watch Monday Night Football (or tonight's bowl games) on ABC HD, I'm seeing some pretty distracting scaling/deinterlacing artifacts (I'm assuming that's what they are). Still shots look fine for the most part, but even slight motion reveals thick stair-stepping along edges or lines that follow certain angles. "Stair-stepping" may not be quite the right description for what I'm seeing, since it often appears as if edges are being revealed though a slightly offset series of horizontal bars -- hence my assumption that I'm seeing a poor job of scaling (and deinterlacing?) the 720p signal. It's extremely obvious when viewing wide shots of the football field, where certain yard lines are clean and others are not.

Three things breakdown MPEG-2: fast motion, a lot of fine detail and noise. If you have a noisy camera taking a picture of a lot of detail (like a crowd at a football game) and doing a pan, you will see the picture break down. Pause a fast pan and you'll see a lot of distortion on many telecasts.

I've tried it both ways and got the same results: Forcing the 8300HD to convert to 1080i before sending to the display, and then allowing the 5078 to receive the 720p signal and do its own conversion.

I set my D* receiver to the native format of the station and let the set do the conversion to 1080p.

I'm sending Time Warner through an SA8300HD -- set to deliver all signals at 1080i -- via component to my HLR-5078. Set is using Movie picture mode, DNIe is turned off, gamma is set to 0, all other SM options have been left untouched. By the way, the problem was just as evident before I made my SM changes. I've self-calibrated as best I could with DVE, and other than the above issue, I'm very happy with the PQ of my Sammy.

I don't think you want to upconvert a 720p picture to 1080i and then let the set go to 1080p. I'd suggest you set the STB to the native signal on the channel. HDMI may produce a better picture than analog component.

Hi

Finally I got my Samsung 5078w :)
I have a question dose it support PAL signal

Thanks

I don't think you want to upconvert a 720p picture to 1080i and then let the set go to 1080p. I'd suggest you set the STB to the native signal on the channel. HDMI may produce a better picture than analog component.

I agree with you about this, but it is a bit of a pain to constantly be changing resolutions. As a result, for the most part I keep my HD TiVo set at 1080i, although for things like the Super Bowl I will change it to 720p. I'm hoping that D*'s next generation HD DVR allows for native pass through.

How does one go about finding a local shop to come out and do an expert calibration on these Samsung 1080 DLP's?

If you check out http://www.imagingscience.com/isf-trained.cfm, that would be a place to start.

Thanks for the feedback, Videopark.

Three things breakdown MPEG-2: fast motion, a lot of fine detail and noise. If you have a noisy camera taking a picture of a lot of detail (like a crowd at a football game) and doing a pan, you will see the picture break down. Pause a fast pan and you'll see a lot of distortion on many telecasts.

So you're suggesting that the primary reason I'm seeing a nasty picture on ABC's MNF has less to do with the display's conversion from 720p > 1080p, and more to do with how they shoot, compress and broadcast the game? How likely is it that the broadcast quality for a national broadcast like that might vary from region to region? For example, during the Ohio State game yesterday afternoon, the first half of the first quarter wasn't even in HD. When they finally switched over to HD, the edge artifacts were **far** worse than I've ever seen, with every edge displaying heavy stair-stepping. Not sure if that was a national or local screw up.

I agree with you about this, but it is a bit of a pain to constantly be changing resolutions. As a result, for the most part I keep my HD TiVo set at 1080i, although for things like the Super Bowl I will change it to 720p. I'm hoping that D*'s next generation HD DVR allows for native pass through.

Agree. The only reason I force my SA8300HD to output 1080i for everything is to make channel switching much faster. For programs where I really care about the quality of the broadcast, I'll let it send the native signal.

Here is my story. I bought a HLR5678 1080P set when they first came out. On the back of the tv it had a June 2005 build date. When I got my XBOX 360 I was playing Need For Speed and noticed lag. When you would steer the car it was not that responsive, Then I hooked it up to a CRT TV and it was like playing a whole new game, it was smooth and quick in response. I was vary disappointed that Samsung would release this DLP. I had to return this DLP because of other issues, to make a long story short, I received my new Samsung HLR5678 and looked at the build date, it said October 2005, I then tested the XBOX 360 with Need For Speed again, to my surprise THE LAG WAS GONE. It even looks better. Maybe there is a fix for the newer build date DLP sets.

Here is my story. I bought a HLR5678 1080P set when they first came out. On the back of the tv it had a June 2005 build date. When I got my XBOX 360 I was playing Need For Speed and noticed lag. When you would steer the car it was not that responsive, Then I hooked it up to a CRT TV and it was like playing a whole new game, it was smooth and quick in response. I was vary disappointed that Samsung would release this DLP. I had to return this DLP because of other issues, to make a long story short, I received my new Samsung HLR5678 and looked at the build date, it said October 2005, I then tested the XBOX 360 with Need For Speed again, to my surprise THE LAG WAS GONE. It even looks better. Maybe there is a fix for the newer build date DLP sets.
How do you have the XBox 360 connected to your TV? Did you also notice a reduction in audio lag (with an external receiver) on the HDMI input?

Thanks for the feedback, Videopark.

So you're suggesting that the primary reason I'm seeing a nasty picture on ABC's MNF has less to do with the display's conversion from 720p > 1080p, and more to do with how they shoot, compress and broadcast the game? How likely is it that the broadcast quality for a national broadcast like that might vary from region to region? For example, during the Ohio State game yesterday afternoon, the first half of the first quarter wasn't even in HD. When they finally switched over to HD, the edge artifacts were **far** worse than I've ever seen, with every edge displaying heavy stair-stepping. Not sure if that was a national or local screw up.

Remote production varies in PQ. Each remote is unique with different equipment and different engineers. Local stations may have their equipment set incorrectly or someone may have forgotten to throw a switch.

Usually for HD, the mobile unit sends the 1.5 Gb/sec. uncompressed HD signal to an uplink truck which compresses it to around 40 Mb/sec for the backhaul to the network using a 36 Mhz transponder. The network TOC then interfaces that signal to the network, sometimes adding studio cut-ins amd always adding commercials to the stream. It is then compressed back to around 40 Mb/sec for satellite transmission to the local station where it has commercials added and is then compressed to 19.4 Mb/sec. for transmission to your home.

It's a wonder it looks as good as it does! All things being equal, a 720p signal will have less compression artifacts than a 1080i signal broadcasting the same image. But things are rarely equal. Some 720p stations have two other program streams taking up bandwidth. Some 1080i stations only transmit one HD stream, using all the bandwidth for the best quality. Some stations have old encoders and others aren't adjusted correctly.

I feel the best HD PQ will come with Blu-ray and HD DVDs with higher data rates and more modern compression.

How do you have the XBox 360 connected to your TV? Did you also notice a reduction in audio lag (with an external receiver) on the HDMI input?

Perhaps the October model has newer firmware that fixes this. Perhaps a call to Samsung support might be worth it to see if they have addressed XBox 360 lag.

Hi, all!

Been lurking for a while, but my 6168 arrives tomorrow and set up questions are filling my head.

Here is my set up:

Receiver - H/K AVR 525
Cable - Motorola 6412 III
DVD - Samsung850 (single universal player w/upconvert).
Harmony 880 Universal Remote

My preference is to run all audio and switching through my H/K. However, as it is a few years old, it will not show OSD through component inputs (which I intend to use from the cable box and DVD player, rather than S-Video).

Questions:

1. Will the upconvert function of the DVD player work if I run through the receiver's component outs?

2. Does the 6168 have a "source" function such that I can switch between, e.g., cable being transmitted via S-Video and cable being sent via component? If so, I can program the Harmony to have a "Watch TV" and a "Watch HDTV" setting that will allow for fast switching and OSD even though the 6412 is the same source for each.

3. Does the optical audio out on the 6168 output all sources, such that I can connect the cable box and DVD player into it and then run one optical out into my H/K? Any disadvantage in doing this?

Thanks in advance and I apologize if these questions have been asked and answered.

CET

Interesting, thanks for sharing. At least in my particular situation, my observations have led me to believe the exact opposite. When I watch an NFL game on CBS HD, for example, the picture quality looks stunning to me. It's crystal clear, "three-dimensional," if you will, with minimal edge artifacts. It's a nice, tight picture that makes me weep with joy every time I see it.

However, when I watch Monday Night Football (or tonight's bowl games) on ABC HD, I'm seeing some pretty distracting scaling/deinterlacing artifacts (I'm assuming that's what they are). Still shots look fine for the most part, but even slight motion reveals thick stair-stepping along edges or lines that follow certain angles. "Stair-stepping" may not be quite the right description for what I'm seeing, since it often appears as if edges are being revealed though a slightly offset series of horizontal bars -- hence my assumption that I'm seeing a poor job of scaling (and deinterlacing?) the 720p signal. It's extremely obvious when viewing wide shots of the football field, where certain yard lines are clean and others are not.

I've tried it both ways and got the same results: Forcing the 8300HD to convert to 1080i before sending to the display, and then allowing the 5078 to receive the 720p signal and do its own conversion.

Three questions:

1) Is anyone else seeing the same thing?

2) Is anyone reasonably clear on exactly how the 68/78/88 series sets are converting from 720p to 1080i/p? Is it dropping resolution to 540p first (oh how I hope not, but that's almost what it looks like), then doubling to 1080p? I'm sure the math is not fun, but I would love to know what it's really doing.

3) If both the display and the cable box are unable to do a better job of scaling up from 720p to 1080i, is my only option for improvement to pony up for an external scaler?

I'm sending Time Warner through an SA8300HD -- set to deliver all signals at 1080i -- via component to my HLR-5078. Set is using Movie picture mode, DNIe is turned off, gamma is set to 0, all other SM options have been left untouched. By the way, the problem was just as evident before I made my SM changes. I've self-calibrated as best I could with DVE, and other than the above issue, I'm very happy with the PQ of my Sammy.

Thanks for any insight.

It could be the STB. I use a Motorola 3412 from Comcast, overall the picture is better than the 6412 I had beford. CBSHD football looks great (some fuzzy edges on fast motion, very mild) but CBSHD & ESPNHD look stunning. The weird thing about this is my STB output is set to 1080i. Weird because the 720p broadcasts look better, although INHD @ 1080i looks awesome. Setting the STB to 720p yields some fuzzy edges, although I have not tried all stations with this setting.

What does setting gamma to 0 do? Where do I find it?
Any answers on how the TV scales 720p & 1080i? It's bad enough that we can't watch true 1080p/60 via HDMI or component, I'd hate to only have 540p!
Do you have audio / video synch problems?

You can adjust the width and height of the VGA input in the picture menu so that it will fill the entire screen with little overscan. I haven't taken the time to compare the 1280x720P output to the 1280x 1024P output. It also might make a difference which game is used since some only output at 720P and some can go up to 1080i but I really need to check to see if I'm getting any extra resolution in the picture. When I get a chance I will run my test patterens on the 360 from my PC, I just need to find them and transfer them to my MCE PC for playback on the Xbox360.
I picked up my 360 today and out of the box, used the HD Component cable to hook to my HLR 5678. I set resolution on Xbox to 1080i and tuned off DNie. We played NHL 2K6 and it looked great! Did not notice any perceptible lag. Also tried out Project Gotham 3 - cars seemed responsive, maybe a tiny bit of lag, not sure, need to play some more. But, first impressions are good. Pretty amazing stuff - far from the days when I was younger and playing Pong ;)

Has anyone noticed massive lipsync problems with Comcast FoxHD. It is almost unwatchable. Im in boston and not sure if this is in other areas

Has anyone noticed massive lipsync problems with Comcast FoxHD. It is almost unwatchable. Im in boston and not sure if this is in other areas

I have a Mits dlp, but I think the audio sync business is about the same as with a Sammy. I finally bit the bullet and got a Felston audio delay box to make this problem history. (It has done so.) The correct audio delay is ~120 msec on both hdtv and dvd's; sometimes I need to change it, but rarely.

Jkaero, that is from the broadcast being out of sync. I've noticed it on occasion from several channels. Sometimes it is really bad, like you said and I always wonder why it takes so long for anyone to notice and fix it? They must be watching another channel when they're working.

What does setting gamma to 0 do? Where do I find it?The default GAMMA setting when these sets are shipped is set to "2 - VIDEO," and can only be changed by entering the Service Menu. All else being equal, setting it to "0 - FILM" results in a picture with a bit less color saturation and contrast (at least on my uncalibrated set). The lower saturation and contrast seems to help colors appear even a bit more natural and lifelike -- particularly the greens on my set, which were slightly oversaturated before the change. Shadow detail also seems to be slightly improved, but nowhere near to the degree that turning off DNIe provides.

There are a few posts in this thread that describe in detail how to enter the Service Menu and where to find the GAMMA setting. Just search for "service menu" or "gamma," and you'll find them pretty quickly. A couple quick words of caution: Follow the directions very carefully and deliberately, and write all settings down before changing a single thing. It appears very easy to accidentally render your set useless. I about wet myself at one point when I tried to enter the SM, and the screen blanked and looked as if it were loading the SM, only to stay blank well past the normal time. 1 minute ... 2 minutes ... 5 minutes ... Turning on and off numerous times didn't bring back a picture on any input. Finally I thought to re-enter the sequence to enter the SM, and that time it magically appeared. I'm guessing one of my initial button-presses in the entry sequence didn't register the first time around. So consider yourself warned ... ;) Enter deliberately and without any distractions.

Any answers on how the TV scales 720p & 1080i? It's bad enough that we can't watch true 1080p/60 via HDMI or component, I'd hate to only have 540p!Nothing yet. Months ago there was some discussion on how these sets scale from 720p to 1080p, but I don't think I saw anyone confirm one way or the other.

Do you have audio / video synch problems?Yes and no. A Felston is on my short list of the next things to purchase.

I have some mild video delay when playing DVDs from my Sony 975. Sometimes I don't notice it at all, other times I do.

I have no video delay when watching digital cable from my SA8300HD, but that's primarily because I'm temporarily running both component video and analog stereo to the TV, and then running optical audio from the TV to my AVR. This of course sidesteps the problem at the expense of having no digital multi-channel audio. There are still times when there are A/V sych problems with certain broadcasts, but they're clearly not originating from the TV.

Here is what I understand. If I am incorrect, I apologize in advance.
It all goes back to source material. If you're watching a broadcast movie for example, since the source was recorded at 24 full frames per second (shall we now use FFPS and HFPS for half frames)
May I suggest you use the industry standard term of "field" to describe a "half-frame" rather than "HFPS".

Saying "frame" does mean a full picture as opposed to a field.

i have a question regarding my Samsung hlr5668w 1080p hdtv. When I input the set from my Sony 400 disc DVD changer (via component inputs) the hdtv tells me the resolution is displaying at 720p @ 60hz. I thought this hdtv up-scaled all inputs to 1080i @ 60hz or is that not true?

I picked up my 360 today and out of the box, used the HD Component cable to hook to my HLR 5678. I set resolution on Xbox to 1080i and tuned off DNie. We played NHL 2K6 and it looked great! Did not notice any perceptible lag. Also tried out Project Gotham 3 - cars seemed responsive, maybe a tiny bit of lag, not sure, need to play some more. But, first impressions are good. Pretty amazing stuff - far from the days when I was younger and playing Pong ;)


Various folks have reported success with using the VGA input. I have also heard that if you are going to use component, t is helpful to name the input "GAME". In both cases, I think the reason that helps avoid lag is that DNIe and other image adjustments that add lag are not used. Give us a try and let us know.

Oh, and no fair bragging about the XBOX 360 unless you know where all the rest of us can find one to buy without doing the E-Bay shuffle.... Have fun...

i have a question regarding my Samsung hlr5668w 1080p hdtv. When I input the set from my Sony 400 disc DVD changer (via component inputs) the hdtv tells me the resolution is displaying at 720p @ 60hz. I thought this hdtv up-scaled all inputs to 1080i @ 60hz or is that not true?

That is showing the signal that is being input. Everything is scaled up to the native resolution of 1920x1080P so there would be no reason to display that. Only the resoltuion of the signal being input is displayed.

Has anyone noticed massive lipsync problems with Comcast FoxHD. It is almost unwatchable. Im in boston and not sure if this is in other areas

I'm in Boston as well, and FOXHD is definitely the worst. I have called FOX several times about this, and their tech is never available. He also never returns my calls. Nobody at the station knows anything about the audio / video synch problems.
Different stations are OK at times & then worse at times, but FOXHD is the worst.

Various folks have reported success with using the VGA input. I have also heard that if you are going to use component, t is helpful to name the input "GAME". In both cases, I think the reason that helps avoid lag is that DNIe and other image adjustments that add lag are not used. Give us a try and let us know.

Oh, and no fair bragging about the XBOX 360 unless you know where all the rest of us can find one to buy without doing the E-Bay shuffle.... Have fun...
I did read about VGA and bought the cable for $40 - but didn't open it yet since EB Games won't give full credit on open cable. Will try renaming input to GAME to see if that has any affect.

BTW, new shipments are Xbox's are trickling in to stores. Wal-Mart had some on 1/1 but I was too late. Then, yesterday, found 2 Target stores had 2 and 3 platinum boxes each! So, you may want to start calling daily to check stock. No need to pay the eBay premiums :D

I did read about VGA and bought the cable for $40 - but didn't open it yet since EB Games won't give full credit on open cable. Will try renaming input to GAME to see if that has any affect. :D

The benefits of “Game” mode only work for a 480i input, which defeats the purpose of having an Xbox 360. Page 108 of the owners manual states “For Component input, Game mode only supports a resolutionof 480i.”

I'm a new owner of a Samsung HL-R6168W and have been having a issue
with the TV Guide On Screen displaying "No Listing". I get all my
channels listing in the TVGOS but do not get any Listing information
for the channels. I live in the Chicago area and I have Comcast as
a cable provider using a Motorola Cable Card supplied by Comcast with no
OTA antenna. I've read several of the posts in this thread referring to
the VBI channel and referring to the local PBS channel for this VBI
channel.

I've contacted Samsung referring to this issue and finally
got through to a service tech that seems to know about my issue. He
begins to explain to me that the makers of the TVGOS, GemStar, have
a issue with CableCard users and areas where the local PBS channel has
been switched to a digital signal rather then a analog signal by the cable
provider. And that they would contact me when an update is available.

I would like to stick with the cablecard instead of going to a cable box.
My question to anyone out there has anyone heard of this issue and should
I hang tough and wait or is there another option?

I hook My Xbox 360 to the component input and I did not even do any SM adjustments.

Here is my story. I bought a HLR5678 1080P set when they first came out. On the back of the tv it had a June 2005 build date. When I got my XBOX 360 I was playing Need For Speed and noticed lag. When you would steer the car it was not that responsive, Then I hooked it up to a CRT TV and it was like playing a whole new game, it was smooth and quick in response. I was vary disappointed that Samsung would release this DLP. I had to return this DLP because of other issues, to make a long story short, I received my new Samsung HLR5678 and looked at the build date, it said October 2005, I then tested the XBOX 360 with Need For Speed again, to my surprise THE LAG WAS GONE. It even looks better. Maybe there is a fix for the newer build date DLP sets

Hi, all!

Been lurking for a while, but my 6168 arrives tomorrow and set up questions are filling my head.

Here is my set up:

Receiver - H/K AVR 525
Cable - Motorola 6412 III
DVD - Samsung850 (single universal player w/upconvert).
Harmony 880 Universal Remote

My preference is to run all audio and switching through my H/K. However, as it is a few years old, it will not show OSD through component inputs (which I intend to use from the cable box and DVD player, rather than S-Video).

Questions:

1. Will the upconvert function of the DVD player work if I run through the receiver's component outs?

2. Does the 6168 have a "source" function such that I can switch between, e.g., cable being transmitted via S-Video and cable being sent via component? If so, I can program the Harmony to have a "Watch TV" and a "Watch HDTV" setting that will allow for fast switching and OSD even though the 6412 is the same source for each.

3. Does the optical audio out on the 6168 output all sources, such that I can connect the cable box and DVD player into it and then run one optical out into my H/K? Any disadvantage in doing this?

Thanks in advance and I apologize if these questions have been asked and answered.

CET

Some clarification and more questions.

I have figured out question #1, but wonder if I will be better off running the DVI cable straight from the Samsung841 (not 850) DVD to the TV?

Also, which output format is best from the DCT6412 III to the HLR6168 if I am using component outs?

Thanks again,

CET

Output form the 6412 III seems to work best with it set to 1080i and the 4:3 Override set to 480i (let the Sammy do the deinterlacing). You may want to try the other settings and see what you think of the picture, as everyone has different preferences.

I'm a new owner of a Samsung HL-R6168W and have been having a issue
with the TV Guide On Screen displaying "No Listing". I get all my
channels listing in the TVGOS but do not get any Listing information
for the channels. I live in the Chicago area and I have Comcast as
a cable provider using a Motorola Cable Card supplied by Comcast with no
OTA antenna. I've read several of the posts in this thread referring to
the VBI channel and referring to the local PBS channel for this VBI
channel.

I've contacted Samsung referring to this issue and finally
got through to a service tech that seems to know about my issue. He
begins to explain to me that the makers of the TVGOS, GemStar, have
a issue with CableCard users and areas where the local PBS channel has
been switched to a digital signal rather then a analog signal by the cable
provider. And that they would contact me when an update is available.

I would like to stick with the cablecard instead of going to a cable box.
My question to anyone out there has anyone heard of this issue and should
I hang tough and wait or is there another option?

It's a possibility that the Cablecard is causing problems, but the following may fix the problem. Go into the TVG setup change the zip code to 00000, and all of the other settings to nothing attached (not sure of the exact wording in the setup). Then wait a day. Next day go into setup, put in your zip code and change the other settings to those that are appropiate. The TVG should then update. If not, then there may be other issues. This worked for me and has worked for others.

Output form the 6412 III seems to work best with it set to 1080i and the 4:3 Override set to 480i (let the Sammy do the deinterlacing). You may want to try the other settings and see what you think of the picture, as everyone has different preferences.

With my Mits dlp, things are better with the 4:3 Override set to 'off', and I thought that this was also the consensus with Sammies. ???

Some clarification and more questions.

I have figured out question #1, but wonder if I will be better off running the DVI cable straight from the Samsung841 (not 850) DVD to the TV?

Also, which output format is best from the DCT6412 III to the HLR6168 if I am using component outs?

Thanks again,

CET

Got it all figured out. I am sure that I have duplicate connections to and from many sources, but the picture looks great!

For those that don't have one, I now (after a week of frustration) highly recommend the Harmony 880. Its macro functions allowed me to customize my viewing options to my particular set up, rather than the reverse. For example, I set up a "Watch analog TV" and a "Watch HDTV" macro so that I could switch between the S-video (for H/K OSD) and component inputs to the HLR6168.

CET

ARGH!

I think my HL-R6768 just broke. I think both its HDMI inputs are dead.

It last functioned normally this morning.
Tonight when I turned it on, it showed the green screen saying no HDMI data was being received. Background - I have it configured to receive input video over HDMI from my Denon 4306 which acts as an HDMI switch and also scales/converts analog inputs to HDMI.

So I started trying variations on the configuration to isolate the problem. I tried two different HDMI sources (the 4306 receiver and my 2910 DVD player) and neither displayed on the TV. I tried both HDMI inputs to the TV and they both displayed the same problem. And I tried multiple HDMI cables with no difference in behavior. I tried going directly from the DVD player to the TV and it didn't work. I tried DVD player to AV receiver and that works fine so the DVD player out and receiver in are okay (I could only confirm the sound in this configuration but I think that is enough to know the HDMI is working). I went back to composite video into the TV and it worked fine. Svideo into the TV also worked fine. But no HDMI input to TV.

I've power cycled multiple times with no change in the problem. I can only conclude that my new $5000 Samsung TV is now broken. S@$!.

I did not buy any kind of special replacement warranty on the overall TV. I am well within the normal Samsung warranty. I bought the TV through TV Authority but its been more than 30 days.

Any recommendations on what to do?

Thanks,
Dan

p.s. - At least the darn piece of junk still works with svideo or I'd be without TV and that would be a true disaster. I guess I need to think on that bright side.

I hook My Xbox 360 to the component input and I did not even do any SM adjustments.

Here is my story. I bought a HLR5678 1080P set when they first came out. On the back of the tv it had a June 2005 build date. When I got my XBOX 360 I was playing Need For Speed and noticed lag. When you would steer the car it was not that responsive, Then I hooked it up to a CRT TV and it was like playing a whole new game, it was smooth and quick in response. I was vary disappointed that Samsung would release this DLP. I had to return this DLP because of other issues, to make a long story short, I received my new Samsung HLR5678 and looked at the build date, it said October 2005, I then tested the XBOX 360 with Need For Speed again, to my surprise THE LAG WAS GONE. It even looks better. Maybe there is a fix for the newer build date DLP sets

How do you check the build date? I'd be interested to see if anyone else has experienced this. I just returned this same model today for lag issues. I'll call and see if I can find a build date on it.

ARGH!

I think my HL-R6768 just broke. I think both its HDMI inputs are dead.

It last functioned normally this morning.
Tonight when I turned it on, it showed the green screen saying no HDMI data was being received. Background - I have it configured to receive input video over HDMI from my Denon 4306 which acts as an HDMI switch and also scales/converts analog inputs to HDMI.

So I started trying variations on the configuration to isolate the problem. I tried two different HDMI sources (the 4306 receiver and my 2910 DVD player) and neither displayed on the TV. I tried both HDMI inputs to the TV and they both displayed the same problem. And I tried multiple HDMI cables with no difference in behavior. I tried going directly from the DVD player to the TV and it didn't work. I tried DVD player to AV receiver and that works fine so the DVD player out and receiver in are okay (I could only confirm the sound in this configuration but I think that is enough to know the HDMI is working). I went back to composite video into the TV and it worked fine. Svideo into the TV also worked fine. But no HDMI input to TV.

I've power cycled multiple times with no change in the problem. I can only conclude that my new $5000 Samsung TV is now broken. S@$!.

I did not buy any kind of special replacement warranty on the overall TV. I am well within the normal Samsung warranty. I bought the TV through TV Authority but its been more than 30 days.

Any recommendations on what to do?

Thanks,
Dan

p.s. - At least the darn piece of junk still works with svideo or I'd be without TV and that would be a true disaster. I guess I need to think on that bright side.
Samsung has a 12 month warranty. They extend it to 15 months if you register your TV after you received it. The set can be registered online at www.samsung.com. At one time you needed to register relatively quickly to get the extra three months on the warranty ... but, I would register it right now anyway.

Output form the 6412 III seems to work best with it set to 1080i and the 4:3 Override set to 480i (let the Sammy do the deinterlacing). You may want to try the other settings and see what you think of the picture, as everyone has different preferences.

I agree with these settings, but don't you lose 1/2 of the picture by choosing 480i over 480p?

Hi Guys. I haven't been here in a while but Samsung has FINALLY decided to replace my set because it is defective. (HLR5688). This is the second replacement and I can't say that I hold out much hope for future sets after this track record but at least they are replacing it.

I agree with these settings, but don't you lose 1/2 of the picture by choosing 480i over 480p?

What you have to remember is that the broadcast originates at 480i. What you are doing is letting the Sammy deinterlace the signal (480i to 1080p) rather than the STB deinterlace to 480p and then the sammy doing the 480p to 1080p.

What you have to remember is that the broadcast originates at 480i. What you are doing is letting the Sammy deinterlace the signal (480i to 1080p) rather than the STB deinterlace to 480p and then the sammy doing the 480p to 1080p.

So it's 480p/30fps, not true 480p/60fps, correct?
Sounds like the 1080p we see on this TV.
So only 720p has a refresh rate of 60fps, right?

CES 2006 - does this belong in this thread? Didn't see it elsewhere. Form Samsung site:

Las Vegas, NV - Samsung, the market and technology leader in DLP micro-display panels advances high definition television viewing with its 7th generation line of high-end 1080p models. The new 87 Series DLPs - the 61" HL-S6187W, 56" HL-S5687 and the 50" HL-S5087W -- feature a sleek new design and Samsung's revolutionary DACS speaker system, at more affordable prices. See Samsung's complete DLP lineup during CES 2006 at the Samsung booth, #11033 in the Central Hall of the Las Vegas Convention Center from January 5th - 8th.

"As a market leader in the high definition television technology, Samsung continues to innovate and expand the horizons of DLP panel technology and design. Our new 87 Series DLPs feature 1920 x 1080p picture quality, superior sound systems and advanced digital connectivity price points that make it even more attractive for consumers to enjoy all the benefits of a 1080P resolution HDTV," said Dan Schinasi, Senior Marketing Manager for Projection TV for Samsung Electronics America. "These new DLPs have new features that address the unique needs of the exploding video game market and the growing trend toward high definition digital devices."

Samsung's 87 Series DLP TVs make the luxury home theater experience more affordable and feature-rich than ever. The 7th generation DLPs fit seamlessly into almost any living room with a slim profile and sleek "hidden" speaker design. Samsung's breakthrough DACS (Dedicated Acoustic Chamber Speakers) feature dual dedicated acoustic chambers for low-range, separate mid/high-range speakers, and a robust 10 Watt x 2 audio system. With their sophisticated glossy black finish, and 61", 56" and 50" screen sizes, the 87 Series DLPs are the perfect complement to even the most stylish home décor.

The 50" HL-S5687W, 56" HL-S5687W, and the 61" HL-S6187W feature the latest Texas Instruments DLP chip for true HD 1920 x 1080p HDTV images. The 1080p DLPs offer the ultimate in picture performance with an ultra high contrast ratio of 10,000:1 with superb brightness. The Cinema Smooth™ Gen 7 Exclusive Light Engine creates a picture with no visible pixel structure for a captivating, theater-quality experience. Samsung's Digital Natural Image Engine (DNIe™) optimizes the picture from any input signal. The built-in HDTV-ATSC tuner with Cable CARD™ permits using the TV's remote control to surf the world of digital cable and digital cable HDTV.

Samsung's 87 Series DLP models feature the latest digital connectivity enhancements. Game Mode gives video game aficionados their most sought after features such as enhanced response time and improved sound quality, in addition to dark area and game graphic enhancements. And the 1080p input capability lets consumers experience the best possible signal transfer currently available when connecting other high definition peripherals such as DVD players. Two HDMI inputs allow high quality connections with other HD devices, optimizing sound and picture reproduction through simultaneous transmission of audio and video signals over one wire. Users can connect easily to a notebook or computer through the PC-input. And a USB 1.1 connection with photo viewer lets consumers connect cameras and other storage devices to display photos on screen in cinematic high definition.

The 50" HL-S5087W, ($2,899 MSRP), 56" HL-S5687W ($3,199 MSRP) and 61" HL-S6187W ($3,599 MSRP) will be available in April 2006.

UCSB has started a new thread for 06 Samsung models. It can be found here: Samsung 2006 DLP HDTV Discussion --- HLSxxxxW Models (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6854969#post6854969) :)

I'm a new owner of a Samsung HL-R6168W and have been having a issue
with the TV Guide On Screen displaying "No Listing".
I've contacted Samsung referring to this issue and finally
got through to a service tech that seems to know about my issue. He
begins to explain to me that the makers of the TVGOS, GemStar, have
a issue with CableCard users and areas where the local PBS channel has
been switched to a digital signal rather then a analog signal by the cable
provider. And that they would contact me when an update is available.

I would like to stick with the cablecard instead of going to a cable box.
My question to anyone out there has anyone heard of this issue and should
I hang tough and wait or is there another option?

I also live in Chicago suburbs, and for the most part, TVGOS has been working OK. Set up is a comcast cablecard with no OTA.
The TVGOS problem that I experience is an occasional.. and very annoying.. "reset", where the custom settings are lost. I'm guessing the prob is due to short power failures, since I noted that unplugging the set for even a sec clears all TVGOS data.
However, I've not experienced the problem mentioned where NO LISTING is prevalent. Leaving the TV powered off overnite always seems to rebuild the schedule.

I'm trying to decide which looks better on my 5668. If I input a 720p DVD movie and then set it to 1080i (both via hdmi) they both look great. What do all of you think looks better?

This is my first post and I hope someone can help me out. I have the 5668 model with SA8300HD digital box.

When I'm watching football or basketball in HD it seems like half of the field or court is lit brighter than the other half. It looks fine when I'm viewing the TV from the middle but when I'm sitting at a slight angle this occurs. Is this normal?

This is my first post and I hope someone can help me out. I have the 5668 model with SA8300HD digital box.

When I'm watching football or basketball in HD it seems like half of the field or court is lit brighter than the other half. It looks fine when I'm viewing the TV from the middle but when I'm sitting at a slight angle this occurs. Is this normal?
No ... the TV has a very wide horizontal viewing angle (160 degrees). How high is your stand?

It would be nice if they offered us 68/78 owners a 1080P HDMi upgrade for a few hundred dollars. Not that I expect it but it would be nice to have that option.

It would be nice if they offered us 68/78 owners a 1080P HDMi upgrade for a few hundred dollars. Not that I expect it but it would be nice to have that option.
I agree. A 1080p HDMI upgrade would be great. I wonder how hard that would be given the fact that the TV has a separate HDMI card.

I'll third that. I also wonder if we will ever see any software upgrades. I feel that those of us who went for the wobbulated sets and 1080i inputs would be extremely happy if Samsung recognized us. :)

Hello all.

Working with the 6168, and the 811 Dish HD box. Hooked up via Component video and TOS optical directly to the tv.

Question 1: Is it normal to get, for lack of a better term, "pixelation" while watching HD channels? Meaning, on HD channles, during fast movements, the screen turns into small (1/2 inch) squares where the picture is moving fast, then immediately goes away when the pic slows down.

Question 2: I get lip sync on regular tv. Is there a audio delay on the this set somewhere? I get it with my HK335 while the theatersound is hooked up, but the 335 obviously had a delay although not nearly enough delay.

Thanks for the help...

PS. Would the Felston Audio Delay work in conjunction with the HK?

Hello all.

Working with the 6168, and the 811 Dish HD box. Hooked up via Component video and TOS optical directly to the tv.

Question 1: Is it normal to get, for lack of a better term, "pixelation" while watching HD channels? Meaning, on HD channles, during fast movements, the screen turns into small (1/2 inch) squares where the picture is moving fast, then immediately goes away when the pic slows down.

Question 2: I get lip sync on regular tv. Is there a audio delay on the this set somewhere? I get it with my HK335 while the theatersound is hooked up, but the 335 obviously had a delay although not nearly enough delay.

Thanks for the help...

PS. Would the Felston Audio Delay work in conjunction with the HK?

Question 1: That is normal and is in the signal being received by your 811 Dish HD STB. It is not a problem with the TV.

Question 2: The only audio delay fix is to route the audio through the TV ... this will solve the problem, but you will lost DD 5.1 sound. So your best bet is the Felston, which will work correctly with your receiver.

I'll third that. I also wonder if we will ever see any software upgrades. I feel that those of us who went for the wobbulated sets and 1080i inputs would be extremely happy if Samsung recognized us. :)

I feel like I have been robbed. I wait until the 5668 is available in my local stores then finally buy the set only to find out a flipin week later a newer and better model will soon be out for about the same price I just paid.

Question 1: That is normal and is in the signal being received by your 811 Dish HD STB. It is not a problem with the TV.

Question 2: The only audio delay is to route the audio through the TV ... this will solve the problem, but you will lost DD 5.1 sound. So your best bet is the Felston, which will work correctly with your receiver.


Bill, as always, thank you for the reply... ;)

I have a 8300HD from Cablevision. I have found that I get the best picture by splitting the signal and connecting the cable directly to my 6768 TV. The picture is noticebly better than when I go through the cable box via either component or HDMI. To my pleasant surprise, when I connected the optical audio output from the TV to my AVR, I get 5.1 channel sound. Best picture and 5.1 channel sound...so I use these connections when watching live TV. Recorded shows, of course, come via the cable box's DVR.

Hi I have strange problem with Samsung 5078W when I connecting it with PC trough components cable, there is big delay in video and even when I move the mouse on the desktop .Btw I did not noticed this delay when I connect Xbox via components cable with same resolution :confused:

I feel like I have been robbed. I wait until the 5668 is available in my local stores then finally buy the set only to find out a flipin week later a newer and better model will soon be out for about the same price I just paid.
I knew when I bought my set in the Summer that this would be the case. It happens every year. Nothing new.

I just received my second 5078. The first one had two problems with it. The first was a rainbow/prism pattern of light that stretched across the top of the screen. It was very noticable when watching a 2.35:1 DVD. The second problem was that there was a three to four inch column on the left side of the screen that was lighter than the rest of the screen. Both problems were noticeable on all inputs.

With the new set, I got the same rainbow/prism pattern across the top. The column on the left side of the screen looks like it's there but it is not nearly as pronounced. I don't remember seeing anyone else in this thread mention either of these problems. Should I go for set number three or is it something an ISF calibration might fix?

I just received my second 5078. The first one had two problems with it. The first was a rainbow/prism pattern of light that stretched across the top of the screen. It was very noticable when watching a 2.35:1 DVD. The second problem was that there was a three to four inch column on the left side of the screen that was lighter than the rest of the screen. Both problems were noticeable on all inputs.

With the new set, I got the same rainbow/prism pattern across the top. The column on the left side of the screen looks like it's there but it is not nearly as pronounced. I don't remember seeing anyone else in this thread mention either of these problems. Should I go for set number three or is it something an ISF calibration might fix?

i think u should get another new set ;)

I feel like I have been robbed. I wait until the 5668 is available in my local stores then finally buy the set only to find out a flipin week later a newer and better model will soon be out for about the same price I just paid.

Do you feel robbed that Dell releases a new computer every six months that is more powerful and cost the same? As a former HLP owner who now owns and 6178 HLR I noticed incremental improvements but nothing earth shattering. I can guarentee you this, if you wait 6 months for the HLS models to become available for purchase you will be again dissapointed 6 months after that when they release the HLT in 2007. I'm hoping to watch my third consecutive Patriots Superbowl victory on my Samsung DLP. Have fun watching your 26" CRT while you wait.

To all you moaning about the lack of 1080P over HDMI, did you notice that Samsung's BlueRay player due out in April will only support 1080i?

http://www.macworld.com/news/2006/01/06/samsung/index.php

I'm trying to decide which looks better on my 5668. If I input a 720p DVD movie and then set it to 1080i (both via hdmi) they both look great. What do all of you think looks better?


Well, all current DVD movies are at 540 lines of res. right? So your DVD changer is upscaling to 720p then the TV is upscaling again to 1080p? That is two upscaling passes. I just recently did a bit of toying with my 6168 and my Panny S97 DVD player. I found that bar none (surprise) the 1080i output of the DVD yielded the best picture. Tweaking the AV Enhance settings on the DVD pretty much eliminates the majority of macroblocking, at least in tmy test materials.

I would say all the comments I have seen are correct regarding decreasing processing when possible. The fewer upscaling passes the better. I would output at 1080i and call it good.

Works for me at least. YMMV

Cheers,
Wiley

I agree. A 1080p HDMI upgrade would be great. I wonder how hard that would be given the fact that the TV has a separate HDMI card.

My guess is the HDMI is a fairly dumbed down I/O card and there is processing done beyond that. Probably not as simple as upgrading the I/O.

If you look at the pending Blu-ray/HD DVD releases, some are pressing forward with 1080i vs. 1080p machines. That could be driven on the set side because so few can accept the progressive input, but it could also be a chipset availability issue.

Guess it's time to dig through the trade industry pubs to see what's cooking on the hardware side.

...As a former HLP owner who now owns and 6178 HLR I noticed incremental improvements but nothing earth shattering
It is interesting to note that like you, there are a number of 1080P owners who have upgraded from earlier Samsung DLPs. What do you all do with your old models? Do any stores take trade-ins (I certainly haven't heard of it)? Do you Ebay them for local delivery only? Run local want adds? Just curious.

It is interesting to note that like you, there are a number of 1080P owners who have upgraded from earlier Samsung DLPs. What do you all do with your old models? Do any stores take trade-ins (I certainly haven't heard of it)? Do you Ebay them for local delivery only? Run local want adds? Just curious.

I've had good success selling larger items on craigslist.org. Recently sold my older Mits RPTV over there.

It is interesting to note that like you, there are a number of 1080P owners who have upgraded from earlier Samsung DLPs. What do you all do with your old models? Do any stores take trade-ins (I certainly haven't heard of it)? Do you Ebay them for local delivery only? Run local want adds? Just curious.

I upgraded to a 5668 and will be giving my old JVC 46 inch to my mother. For her this will be a huge upgrade from her very old 30 inch crt. :)

I feel like I have been robbed. I wait until the 5668 is available in my local stores then finally buy the set only to find out a flipin week later a newer and better model will soon be out for about the same price I just paid.

Just got a 6178 a month ago. Love the set, BUUUUT I have issues with RBE and lip sync. I would have waited for the LED DLP. I hear that only the 56" will be released this year, so I may have to wait longer for the 61". No perfect answer!

I wonder what the market expectations are for turnover on these $4,000 sets. I went into the purchase with a 5-year plan. I don't know if I can make it stick, but my wife will make it stick.

Question 1: That is normal and is in the signal being received by your 811 Dish HD STB. It is not a problem with the TV.

Question 2: The only audio delay fix is to route the audio through the TV ... this will solve the problem, but you will lost DD 5.1 sound. So your best bet is the Felston, which will work correctly with your receiver.

Reg. 1) I have had this problem and it went away (almost completely) when I turned off some of those knobs in the SM which supposedly disable DNIE. So, while I am not disputing the fact that the little squares may be caused by some fault in the content itself, it can be taken care of by removing DNIE on the TV.

Does anyone how long the lamp lasts in these TVs?
I have an HL-R5078W.
How much do they cost?
I was told 8000 hrs at Tweeter, and appx. $250.

They may tell you that it is an 8000 hr bulb, but the replacements are only guaranteed for 90 days.... really hard to get 8000 hrs. in 90 days...... about 2100 hrs. in 90 days....

I got 6000 hrs out of my first bulb on my HLN5065

Don

No ... the TV has a very wide horizontal viewing angle (160 degrees). How high is your stand?

I have the stand shown with the TV on samsung website. I believe the height is 19". I can still view the TV at 160 degrees...its just that grass seems greener than the other half when watching from a slight angle. Thanks.

Jae

I have the stand shown with the TV on samsung website. I believe the height is 19". I can still view the TV at 160 degrees...its just that grass seems greener than the other half when watching from a slight angle. Thanks.

Jae
I always watch my set from an angle and I haven't noticed this problem.

They may tell you that it is an 8000 hr bulb, but the replacements are only guaranteed for 90 days.... really hard to get 8000 hrs. in 90 days...... about 2100 hrs. in 90 days....

I got 6000 hrs out of my first bulb on my HLN5065

Don

Where is it that you check how many hours that you have used the bulb?

Also, any tips for making the bulb last? I never use the dynamic setting. It's either standard or movie, sometimes custom which has everything turned down.

How about time between turning the TV on and off or off and on. Does that affect lamp life?

I have the stand shown with the TV on samsung website. I believe the height is 19". I can still view the TV at 160 degrees...its just that grass seems greener than the other half when watching from a slight angle. Thanks.

Jae


The grass is ALWAYS greener than the other half.....sorry I just couldn't resist. :D

I wonder if the difference in color has more to do with the difference of room lighting or something other than the TV itself? I usually sit at a sharp angle on the right side of the set. I have a window on the left wall near the set and a light on the ceiling in front of the set. Those don't seem to make a difference, however I wonder if I were able to sit at the same angle on the left side if the color would look different?

I guess I'll just have to ask the tech when he comes out to see the TV. Thanks for the help!

Where is it that you check how many hours that you have used the bulb?I know it's listed in the Service Menu under OPTIONS/Lamp Life, but maybe it's also displayed on one of the diagnostics screens? I haven't checked those out yet. For instructions, check out post 5311 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6196339&&#post6196339) and look for millerwill's originally posted instructions. Not sure if it'll be there, though.

Also, any tips for making the bulb last? I never use the dynamic setting. It's either standard or movie, sometimes custom which has everything turned down.I think you're on the right track here. I run my contrast at around 40-50, and brightness is somewhere around 39-41. Those decisions were based more upon picture quality after DVE "calibration," but I'm sure it helps to not have them cranked way up.

How about time between turning the TV on and off or off and on. Does that affect lamp life?I don't have any hard facts to back this up, but I'd bet that the more aggressive you are in quickly turning on and off, the more stress you place on the bulb. I can't even hear my cooling fan after I turn the set off (hopefully the thing's actually running! ;)), so I don't know how long it runs ... but I try at the bare minimum to wait at least a few minutes after power-down before turning it on again. In general, the fewer power on/off cycles, the better. Note that in the lamp-change section of the manual, they indicate to wait at least 30 minutes after power-down to avoid touching a hot bulb!

Does the picture deteriorate in any way as the bulb "ages"?

Does the picture deteriorate in any way as the bulb "ages"?
With in the first hundred hours burning time the luminous flux of a HID xenon bulb decreases faster, then there after the decrease of lumens is slightly reduced. This behaviour of the HID bulb indicates that we have more than one process of bulb aging involved. At the first burning hours it is very unlikely event that burned off material from the electrodes is condensed on the quarz arc burning compartment and is responsible for the fast light output reduction. Inside the burner compartment there are alkali metal salts with a defined ratio dazugefügt especially the yellow emitting sodium Na + . At high burning temperatures a certain amount of sodium will penetrating inside the surface of the quarz and starts acting as a filter (phase a of first 100 h). There will be an equilibrium of condensing and vaporising however the coating thickness will grow by penetration slightly (phase b after 500h).

Translation: the picture gets darker over time with the first 100 hours showing the largest decrease.

From: http://www.nuconverter.de/lumfluxdecreasing.html

With in the first hundred hours burning time the luminous flux of a HID xenon bulb decreases faster, then there after the decrease of lumens is slightly reduced. This behaviour of the HID bulb indicates that we have more than one process of bulb aging involved. At the first burning hours it is very unlikely event that burned off material from the electrodes is condensed on the quarz arc burning compartment and is responsible for the fast light output reduction. Inside the burner compartment there are alkali metal salts with a defined ratio dazugefügt especially the yellow emitting sodium Na + . At high burning temperatures a certain amount of sodium will penetrating inside the surface of the quarz and starts acting as a filter (phase a of first 100 h). There will be an equilibrium of condensing and vaporising however the coating thickness will grow by penetration slightly (phase b after 500h).

Translation: the picture gets darker over time with the first 100 hours showing the largest decrease.

From: http://www.nuconverter.de/lumfluxdecreasing.html


Yea..............PV=nrt :D

Yea..............PV=nrt :D
We can define pressure P, volume V, and temperature T but how does the Ideal Gas Law define the life of the filament?

I know this may have been addressed somewhere else, but at 271 pages I cant read through the whole thread. I really want to purchase the Samsung HL-R5688W 56" 1080p DLP. Is this a good TV for playing Xbox 360? Also, is this a good TV for using as a PC monitor? Im buying a new TV and I will mostly use for 360 and PC usage, with the occasional TV/DVD use. Thanks much in advance for any help!

Has anyone gotten any additional information about the dynamic range issue (brightness changing when switching inputs) and whether Samsung is coming out with a fix for it? Turning that one DNIe option to "OFF" didn't work for me and I'd really be great if this issue could be fixed.

I know this may have been addressed somewhere else, but at 271 pages I cant read through the whole thread. I really want to purchase the Samsung HL-R5688W 56" 1080p DLP. Is this a good TV for playing Xbox 360? Also, is this a good TV for using as a PC monitor? Im buying a new TV and I will mostly use for 360 and PC usage, with the occasional TV/DVD use. Thanks much in advance for any help!

Definitely no lag with the 360 using the vga input of my 1080P Samsung. Excellent picture as long as you don't see rainbows. It also works well as amonitor although I personally only use it for short periods for web browsing. My HTPC is mainly for PC games and watching WMV-HD content at 1080P using the vga input. With the 360 I use 1280x720P.

Definitely no lag with the 360 using the vga input of my 1080P Samsung. Excellent picture as long as you don't see rainbows. It also works well as amonitor although I personally only use it for short periods for web browsing. My HTPC is mainly for PC games and watching WMV-HD content at 1080P using the vga input. With the 360 I use 1280x720P.

So if Im buying the TV I should go get the VGA cable? Why no component cables? Does VGA produce a better picture? Also, I dont remember seeing that there was a VGA on the 5688 (Pedestal Model).

We can define pressure P, volume V, and temperature T but how does the Ideal Gas Law define the life of the filament?


Oh, that is easy...it's in the n and the r

Just received my HL-R6768W today and couldn't have been more pleased. Key word was "HAVE" instead of "BE". That's because while watching a DVD, half of the picture just went dark (left side). After a power recycle, everything OK. Later, it does it again, then again, then very reguarly. Does this sould like the "wobulation" getting stuck? Has anyone else experienced this and is there a fix?

I am very happy to report, though, that I saw absolutely no lip-sync issues. I have a Comcast SA 8000HD box hooked up to the 6768W by component, where the component and coax digital audio first go to my receiver, then distributed to the TV. Also, DVD's worked fine. I read somewhere that some user had a problem with the "Alexander" DVD, but I did not.

Getting kinda hard to explain to my wife why this TV was such a good buy......

lyp sync issues:
i tried searching but found it impossible to wade thru all the posts, im experienceing lip sync problems on my 5668 both on my dvd and DVR, and was wondering if there is anything i can do to deal with this other than purchasing a delay box, or giving up my 5.1 and sending the audio from the tv to the receiver. I have it connected as follows:

DVR.....hdmi to tv, optical audio to receiver
DVD.....component to tv, coax audio to receiver

i have the internal speaker on the tv set to mute, and DVR set to output DD to the reciever. is there any other ways of connecting the components that could possibly help my sync issues without sacrificing 5.1?

Just received my HL-R6768W today and couldn't have been more pleased. Key word was "HAVE" instead of "BE". That's because while watching a DVD, half of the picture just went dark (left side). After a power recycle, everything OK. Later, it does it again, then again, then very reguarly. Does this sould like the "wobulation" getting stuck? Has anyone else experienced this and is there a fix?

I am very happy to report, though, that I saw absolutely no lip-sync issues. I have a Comcast SA 8000HD box hooked up to the 6768W by component, where the component and coax digital audio first go to my receiver, then distributed to the TV. Also, DVD's worked fine. I read somewhere that some user had a problem with the "Alexander" DVD, but I did not.

Getting kinda hard to explain to my wife why this TV was such a good buy......

Check out the pic in my post #7760
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6728360&&#post6728360
Besides what the pics shows, my tv would also go completely blank on that side too, usually when I turned it on. Samsung had to send a repair man out to fix it.

lyp sync issues:
i tried searching but found it impossible to wade thru all the posts, im experienceing lip sync problems on my 5668 both on my dvd and DVR, and was wondering if there is anything i can do to deal with this other than purchasing a delay box, or giving up my 5.1 and sending the audio from the tv to the receiver. I have it connected as follows:

DVR.....hdmi to tv, optical audio to receiver
DVD.....component to tv, composite audio to receiver

i have the internal speaker on the tv set to mute, and DVR set to output DD to the reciever. is there any other ways of connecting the components that could possibly help my sync issues without sacrificing 5.1?

Don't know if this will help but I also have the 5668 and have zero lip sync problems so far. I have my DVD set to output 1080i (up-scaling DVD) feeding the TV (TV audio set to mute) via hdmi2 (don't use hdmi1 as it expects audio) and I send the audio from the DVD player to my receiver via digital audio coax.

i'll have to give hdmi2 a shot, the problem is more apparent with the DVR, which i have set to put out 1080i, its a SA 8300HD unit, the sync varies from program to program which can be very annoying.

lyp sync issues:
i tried searching but found it impossible to wade thru all the posts, im experienceing lip sync problems on my 5668 both on my dvd and DVR, and was wondering if there is anything i can do to deal with this other than purchasing a delay box, or giving up my 5.1 and sending the audio from the tv to the receiver. I have it connected as follows:

DVR.....hdmi to tv, optical audio to receiver
DVD.....component to tv, coax audio to receiver

i have the internal speaker on the tv set to mute, and DVR set to output DD to the reciever. is there any other ways of connecting the components that could possibly help my sync issues without sacrificing 5.1?
There are only four ways to solve this problem: 1) route sound through TV losing DD 5.1; 2) add an external delay box; 3) add a delay in your source component, if it is supported; 4) add a delay in your receiver.

Thanks Tatmtt2120,
Your pic was great and is also a great idea to show if the TV is working when the tech gets here. I'm pretty sure its the DLP engine, so i'm going to insist that they replace that when they get here.

I know that there are posts on this thread about excellent quality, low cost cables.

I'm not sure where to find opinions or links. I am presently using Comcast supplied component and HDMI cables, and my PQ is stunning (all Comcast cables have shielding and gold plated connectors). It's my understanding that all HDMI cables are manufactured to the same standards, so paying more for one is pointless. I had been using Monster Home Series Cables, but in a side by side comparison, nobody could tell the difference.

Should I stick with what I'm using, or look for something else. A lot of what I've read says that Monster Cables are just marketing hype.

Are there any sites I should liik at? How about monoPrice? Will any of these bne a big step upo over what I have now?

HL-R5078W
Comcast/Motorola 3412 DVR

I would keep the Comsucks cables. I asked for HDMI and they said only component were available. That was around September I think? I would invest in calibration over cables. HDMI is digital audio and video. I assume you have a short length, mine are 3'. There's no way unless you live next to a power plant or something that a HDMI cable could make a significant difference.

I would keep the Comsucks cables. I asked for HDMI and they said only component were available. That was around September I think? I would invest in calibration over cables. HDMI is digital audio and video. I assume you have a short length, mine are 3'. There's no way unless you live next to a power plant or something that a HDMI cable could make a significant difference.


Comcast gave me the HDMI cable in late November, after I had asked several times.
All of my runs are less than 3ft. If other cables would make a difference, I'd buy them, but if they are a waste of money then what's the point?

Tweeter sells Monster HDMI for over $100. I bought mine at Ram, a sponsor here for I think under $20 including shipping, no tax. My friend bought one too and I remember the total being under $40. If you notice a problem call Comsucks before spending a lot on a cable. My friend had two stb's replaced. Now mine is making a lot of noise, I think from the HD. I didn't notice it before. Don't forget to get the Tuneup show, that might help also.

Tweeter sells Monster HDMI for over $100. I bought mine at Ram, a sponsor here for I think under $20 including shipping, no tax. My friend bought one too and I remember the total being under $40. If you notice a problem call Comsucks before spending a lot on a cable. My friend had two stb's replaced. Now mine is making a lot of noise, I think from the HD. I didn't notice it before. Don't forget to get the Tuneup show, that might help also.

Everything looks great, I just was not sure if the Comcast cables were of good quality.

Everything looks great, I just was not sure if the Comcast cables were of good quality.
That's the test. With digital signals, it is either perfect or not there. If you get picture interruptions, then the cable is no good or is not making a good connection.

You don't need $100 cables. You will see no difference.

That's the test. With digital signals, it is either perfect or not there. If you get picture interruptions, then the cable is no good or is not making a good connection.

You don't need $100 cables. You will see no difference.

What about the component. The picture looks great from all source.

So with the digital cables, it's either good or bad, with no in between?
Kind of like 0 or 1 in binary code, right?

That's the test. With digital signals, it is either perfect or not there. If you get picture interruptions, then the cable is no good or is not making a good connection.

You don't need $100 cables. You will see no difference.

What about the component? The picture looks great from all source.

So with the digital cables, it's either good or bad, with no in between?
Kind of like 0 or 1 in binary code, right?

That's the test. With digital signals, it is either perfect or not there. If you get picture interruptions, then the cable is no good or is not making a good connection.

You don't need $100 cables. You will see no difference.

What about the component? The picture looks great from all sources.

So with the digital cables, it's either good or bad, with no in between?
Kind of like 0 or 1 in binary code, right?

What about the component. The picture looks great from all source.

So with the digital cables, it's either good or bad, with no in between?
Kind of like 0 or 1 in binary code, right?
Just buy a HDMI cable and give it a try. Here on the San Francisco Bay Area Comcast system, I perfer the HDMI output on the Motorola 6412 III. Monoprice, RAM, Blue Jeans, and Radio Shack are all places to pick up a cheap cable. HDMI cables do transmit digital data and it is a stream of binary 0 & 1's so you do not have the potential influences that you have on analog component video cables.

What about the component? The picture looks great from all sources.

Glad it does. Analog component can be affected by poor cables. But if you have 3-6 foot cables, they would have to be VERY bad for you to see any difference.

As an experiment, try some RCA audio cables on the component outputs and see if you can spot any difference.

So with the digital cables, it's either good or bad, with no in between?
Kind of like 0 or 1 in binary code, right?
Right. It's is a 1 or a zero. No other choice!

Just buy a HDMI cable and give it a try. Here on the San Francisco Bay Area Comcast system, I perfer the HDMI output on the Motorola 6412 III. Monoprice, RAM, Blue Jeans, and Radio Shack are all places to pick up a cheap cable. HDMI cables do transmit digital data and it is a stream of binary 0 & 1's so you do not have the potential influences that you have on analog component video cables.


The HDMI from my 3412 w/the Comcast cable looks great. So does the component from the 3412 with the Comcast cables. And the Comcast component cables from my DVD player look great as well.

Isn't HDMI also a stndard which all HDMI cables have to be made to meet?

I also assume you must have the newest HD-DVRSTB since you have HDMI. People here have said that makes a difference too. I had to demand them, one for me and my friend. I had to cancel and wait for install appnts. until they had them in stock. I was told no one outside Boston had them yet. I figured if I didn't get it now that I would have problems getting it down the road, I'm just north of Boston. I was very impressed with their component cables though. I thought they would be junk since they were free.

I also assume you must have the newest HD-DVRSTB since you have HDMI. People here have said that makes a difference too. I had to demand them, one for me and my friend. I had to cancel and wait for install appnts. until they had them in stock. I was told no one outside Boston had them yet. I figured if I didn't get it now that I would have problems getting it down the road, I'm just north of Boston. I was very impressed with their component cables though. I thought they would be junk since they were free.


I'm just north of Boston as well. I have the 3412 w/HDMI. All of their cables seem to be of excellent quality. Copper shielded, gold plated connections. The 3412 gives MUCH better PQ, especially on ch. 2-99.

All cables must follow their spec, even telephone cables. HDMI doesn't have any data checking like a computer though. It is possible for the Sammy to get two 00s when it should be 01, while a computer checks to be sure both ends are 01. Very unlikely, which I guess is why they didn't think it necessary for checking or correction even. Bottom line, the reason for getting a high quality cable is to reduce interference and increase signal strength. That isn't an issue with a short, digital cable. Component is still analog so those issues still apply. Whether it makes a difference for your environment is up to you to decide. From what you said and from what me and my friend experienced I'd say the component cables are fine as well. The real issue is probably more that the component doesn't carry audio than the quality.

Isn't HDMI also a stndard which all HDMI cables have to be made to meet?
"HDMI transmits all ATSC HDTV standards & supports 8-channel digital audio with 5Gbps bandwidth using copper wire with 15 feet transmission distance and can accommodate future enhancements because it has spare overhead in the HDMI specifications."

"HDMI specifies the required performance of a cable but does not specify a maximum cable length. Cables are expected to be lengths of up to 15 meters. As semiconductor technology improves, even longer stretches can be reached with fiber optic cables, and with active cable technologies such as amplifiers or repeaters."

"HDMI transmits all ATSC HDTV standards & supports 8-channel digital audio with 5Gbps bandwidth using copper wire with 15 feet transmission distance and can accommodate future enhancements because it has spare overhead in the HDMI specifications."

"HDMI specifies the required performance of a cable but does not specify a maximum cable length. Cables are expected to be lengths of up to 15 meters. As semiconductor technology improves, even longer stretches can be reached with fiber optic cables, and with active cable technologies such as amplifiers or repeaters."

So the Comcast supplied HDMI cable meets minimum HDMI specs, correct?
It's a 2 meter cable, and everything looks great. Best of all, it costs $129 less that a $129 Monster cable!

The HDMI from my 3412 w/the Comcast cable looks great. So does the component from the 3412 with the Comcast cables. And the Comcast component cables from my DVD player look great as well.

Isn't HDMI also a stndard which all HDMI cables have to be made to meet?
HDMI cables are made to comply with the HDMI standard and on short runs (3' to 6') you are not going to have any problems with a moderately priced cable. But, HDMI does not have any error correction, so the quality of the cable can become a factor on longer runs or where interferrence would be an issue. I have a lot of HDMI cables that range in quality from the cheap ($10) versions that you get for free with components up to a $250 super premium. Generally, you can not see any difference in PQ regardless of price. So, pick one that matches your budget. I will generally pay more to get a nice cable with upgraded connectors and nice cosmetics that blend into my installation.

So if Im buying the TV I should go get the VGA cable? Why no component cables? Does VGA produce a better picture? Also, I dont remember seeing that there was a VGA on the 5688 (Pedestal Model).
I have a HLR-5678W and hooked my Xbox 360 up using the supplied HD Component cable that comes with the premium package (white box). I set Xbox output to 1080i and have been playing NHL2k6, PGR3, and Tiger Wood 06 for the last week. I turned off DNie on the Component input as well. No lag at all and an outstanding picture so far, very impressed. It has been a pleasure to play so far on this set :)

I know that there are posts on this thread about excellent quality, low cost cables.

I'm not sure where to find opinions or links. I am presently using Comcast supplied component and HDMI cables, and my PQ is stunning (all Comcast cables have shielding and gold plated connectors). It's my understanding that all HDMI cables are manufactured to the same standards, so paying more for one is pointless. I had been using Monster Home Series Cables, but in a side by side comparison, nobody could tell the difference.

Should I stick with what I'm using, or look for something else. A lot of what I've read says that Monster Cables are just marketing hype.

Are there any sites I should liik at? How about monoPrice? Will any of these bne a big step upo over what I have now?

HL-R5078W
Comcast/Motorola 3412 DVR
I have purchased many cables from http://www.avcable.com/

Excellent cables and customer service as well. Will even make you custom lengths. Great company to deal with.

I had a tech come over to investigate a dark picture. He fooled around with some settings, changed the bulb, then removed the light engine to see if a new one would make a difference. After a short eval, he put the old unit back in. Afterwards, I noticed that the picture does not seem as focused. Really apparent on text, (even large text) and small images. I notice this on the high quality football broadcasts as well. Seems to lose image quality when camera pans fast to follow the ball. I did not notice this before the light engine swap. Makes me think the set needs a recal when the light engine is removed and replaced. Any thoughts from the experts? Thanks in advance, Fletch

I had a tech come over to investigate a dark picture. He fooled around with some settings, changed the bulb, then removed the light engine to see if a new one would make a difference. After a short eval, he put the old unit back in. Afterwards, I noticed that the picture does not seem as focused. Really apparent on text, (even large text) and small images. I notice this on the high quality football broadcasts as well. Seems to lose image quality when camera pans fast to follow the ball. I did not notice this before the light engine swap. Makes me think the set needs a recal when the light engine is removed and replaced. Any thoughts from the experts? Thanks in advance, Fletch


I had problems after a tech swapped out my light engine also. After referring to the service manual, I learned that certain Service Menu settings needed to be reset after a light-engine change. I can't remember all of them off the top of my head, but Index Delay was one of them, another one that affects sharpness, and maybe a couple others.

It's too bad these techs that come out don't know any better. The average consumer doesn't know how to do these types of things and would likely be asking for their set to be replaced due to a setting not being set properly.

Thanks, I thought it was something related. How did you get it reset correctly? I assume you would have to get into the service menu but would also need to know what you are doing. Is that info in the manual that comes with the set or is it a factory service manual?

If the color and everything looks fine couldn't it be the focus ring? I'd just have them return and adjust that, or in addition to the SM.

I'll ask. I wasn't too impressed by the knowledge of the last tech they sent. I hope this makes sense to them. Otherwise, I may have to do it myself. Where do you get a service manuel. Does someone have a copy.

I had a tech come over to investigate a dark picture. He fooled around with some settings, changed the bulb, then removed the light engine to see if a new one would make a difference. After a short eval, he put the old unit back in. Afterwards, I noticed that the picture does not seem as focused. Really apparent on text, (even large text) and small images. I notice this on the high quality football broadcasts as well. Seems to lose image quality when camera pans fast to follow the ball. I did not notice this before the light engine swap. Makes me think the set needs a recal when the light engine is removed and replaced. Any thoughts from the experts? Thanks in advance, Fletch
It may be as simple as just using the manual ring focus to refocus the image on the screen. Have the tech come back and the two of you should be able to get a sharp focus on the screen using one of the internal test patterns.

How do you get the test pattern?

How do you get the test pattern?

I think they are in the service menu.

So if Im buying the TV I should go get the VGA cable? Why no component cables? Does VGA produce a better picture? Also, I dont remember seeing that there was a VGA on the 5688 (Pedestal Model).

Finally bought my first HDTV thanks to all on this forum. Unit is due to arrive this week and I have been busy purchasing cables for my components. I think the 5688 has a VGA in, but I have a similar question on connecting my HTPC (Dell Inspiron) to the 6168. I thought DVI to HDMI 2 In/DVI in would be the best, but I see from the manual that this connection is "Not compatible with PC"; therefore, the only choice is the HTPC VGA to the 6168 VGA PC in connection. Does anyone know why the HDMI 2 in is not compatable? On other forums the recommended interface is DVI first then VGA. The component cable route is not recommended but cannot remember why.

I plan on using the HTPC to play DVD's; therefore the audio connection is just as important. What was your plan for that? I purchased the Soundblaster Audigy 2 ZS Notebook sound card. I am leaning on using 3 mini-to-2 RCA cables to connect to my AV Receiver with is only 5.1.

Thanks in advance for any advice. ;)

Samsuung HL-R6168W
Explorer 8300HD DVR
Sony STR DE635

I purchased my HL-R6168W about 3 weeks ago and am sorry to say, I am rather dis-satisfied. I have been plagued with "noise" when watching football on both ESPN and ABC. Its seems to be most apparent when it is zoomed out just before a snap of the ball. The edges of players especially in white have distortion around them on the green field background. The yard line numbers on the field have the same noise and distortion. Zoomed in on a player looks wonderful. The Samsung technician said it was because the cable company is compressing the signal. So about an hour ago I bought a Terk HD antenna and the same noise appears over the air on PBS-HD. I also get VERY noticeable pixelization when the scene changes or during complex scenes like grass blowing, moving water, or looking at a flyover of the grand canyon. The edges of the rocks are obviously shaky and distorted.

Finally bought my first HDTV thanks to all on this forum. Unit is due to arrive this week and I have been busy purchasing cables for my components. I think the 5688 has a VGA in, but I have a similar question on connecting my HTPC (Dell Inspiron) to the 6168. I thought DVI to HDMI 2 In/DVI in would be the best, but I see from the manual that this connection is "Not compatible with PC"; therefore, the only choice is the HTPC VGA to the 6168 VGA PC in connection. Does anyone know why the HDMI 2 in is not compatable? On other forums the recommended interface is DVI first then VGA. The component cable route is not recommended but cannot remember why.

I plan on using the HTPC to play DVD's; therefore the audio connection is just as important. What was your plan for that? I purchased the Soundblaster Audigy 2 ZS Notebook sound card. I am leaning on using 3 mini-to-2 RCA cables to connect to my AV Receiver with is only 5.1.

Thanks in advance for any advice. ;)

Samsuung HL-R6168W
Explorer 8300HD DVR
Sony STR DE635


Congrats on your new purchase....

I play DVDs on my IBM T42p laptop via the VGA connection and the quality is nothing short of stunning! So with these TVs, VGA is the way to go (and make the laptop upconvert to 1080p). The added benefit is that there is NO AUDIO lag with VGA because the TV doesn't do any heavy-duty video processing on this input. I would first make sure that the laptop you have is capable of handling the video task (you most likely need a good graphics card and a strong CPU).

I have the very same Notebook ZS Audigy card. Your RCA cable idea is not going to get you 5.1 surround sound. What you need is the Mini-Plug to TOSLINK (optical) cable which Creative Sells for $13 or so. If you need help setting up the Audigy so that it sends the bitstream directly to the external receiver without decoding it first, PM me.

Good luck.

I purchased my HL-R6168W about 3 weeks ago and am sorry to say, I am rather dis-satisfied. I have been plagued with "noise" when watching football on both ESPN and ABC. ... So about an hour ago I bought a Terk HD antenna and the same noise appears over the air on PBS-HD. I also get VERY noticeable pixelization when the scene changes or during complex scenes like grass blowing, moving water, or looking at a flyover of the grand canyon. The edges of the rocks are obviously shaky and distorted.
Sounds like compression errors/faults. You will see DCT blocks show up with fine detail and motion. SOme stations will have more errors if they are multicasting. See if the CBS affiliate has the same blocks. They tend to compress less and use the entire 19.4 bandwidth to one program. Take a look at the Letterman Show. Excellent PQ.

You may find turning down the sharpness lessens the edges around objects.

I've got the same set and I'm very happy.

I purchased my HL-R6168W about 3 weeks ago and am sorry to say, I am rather dis-satisfied. I have been plagued with "noise" when watching football on both ESPN and ABC. Its seems to be most apparent when it is zoomed out just before a snap of the ball. The edges of players especially in white have distortion around them on the green field background. The yard line numbers on the field have the same noise and distortion. Zoomed in on a player looks wonderful. The Samsung technician said it was because the cable company is compressing the signal. So about an hour ago I bought a Terk HD antenna and the same noise appears over the air on PBS-HD. I also get VERY noticeable pixelization when the scene changes or during complex scenes like grass blowing, moving water, or looking at a flyover of the grand canyon. The edges of the rocks are obviously shaky and distorted.
There are a number of settings that you can use both within and outside of the service menu to correct most of this if it is not source related but the biggest impact you can do is to run each source in MOVIE mode. If its not bright enough for you just increase the brightness setting on the user menu for each input.

Just purchased a Mitsubishi 1080p 52". It has a loud fan/color wheel which is very annoying but the picture is absolutely beautiful.
The salesman said I can still exchange and I'm thinking about the Samsung 1080p 50" because someone said it was quiet in a previous thread.

Is the Samsung really that quiet or can you still here the buzzing of the fan and color wheels? Someone please help because I have to decide on the exchange very shortly.

Mine is very quiet. As you know, it has air bearings. I can hear it start up but the sound disappears after a few seconds. I can't hear it turning.

There are a number of settings that you can use both within and outside of the service menu to correct most of this if it is not source related but the biggest impact you can do is to run each source in MOVIE mode. If its not bright enough for you just increase the brightness setting on the user menu for each input.

What settings are those?
Where do I find them?
What is the correct way to exit the service menu?

Just purchased a Mitsubishi 1080p 52". It has a loud fan/color wheel which is very annoying but the picture is absolutely beautiful.
The salesman said I can still exchange and I'm thinking about the Samsung 1080p 50" because someone said it was quiet in a previous thread.

Is the Samsung really that quiet or can you still here the buzzing of the fan and color wheels? Someone please help because I have to decide on the exchange very shortly.


EXTREMELY queit. My STB (Motorola 3412) makes more noise than my HL-R5078W.

EXTREMELY queit. My STB (Motorola 3412) makes more noise then my HL-R5078W.

Agreed. I can hear the TV when everything else has been switched off but certainly not while there is any thing being played on the speakers.

Are you happy with your Samsung 1080p? Everthing on this thread deals with problems, settings, etc. I cant get a good feel as to whether it is better for me to exchange my 52" Mistubishi 1080p with a perfect picture and loud fan for a 50" Samsung 1080p.

Someone help me make a decision...

You shouldn't hear the the fan when watching TV. I would check the floor model to see if you notice it? You might exchange it instead of replace it, although most people here prefer the Sammy. lol. Can't beat the HTPC connection and form factor case. You might also check to see if the prices have dropped, or maybe a big sale?

Just purchased a Mitsubishi 1080p 52". It has a loud fan/color wheel which is very annoying but the picture is absolutely beautiful.
The salesman said I can still exchange and I'm thinking about the Samsung 1080p 50" because someone said it was quiet in a previous thread.

Is the Samsung really that quiet or can you still here the buzzing of the fan and color wheels? Someone please help because I have to decide on the exchange very shortly.
You might check the Mitsu owners thread, but I thought that fan noise was one of complaints that owners were making about the Mitsu models. The 2005 Samsungs have very low noise levels.

My STB makes a lot of noise now, while watching TV. The DVR HDD is always running but it was never this loud. You can hear it writing, different from when a HDD is broken or on its way out. With my HTPC off I'm able to lower the Sammy volume to four from ten and I still don't hear any noise from the Sammy. I don't have an AVR yet.

Are you happy with your Samsung 1080p? Everthing on this thread deals with problems, settings, etc. I cant get a good feel as to whether it is better for me to exchange my 52" Mistubishi 1080p with a perfect picture and loud fan for a 50" Samsung 1080p.

Someone help me make a decision...
Have you called Mitsu and asked them about the problem, I'm sure they would be happy to setup a service call to exchange the fan.

What settings are those?
Where do I find them?
What is the correct way to exit the service menu?
I won't go into details here as they are all over this thread. Look for Index Delay, gamma, the settings to turn off DNIE.

Again start with Movie Mode in the users menu and adjust contrast and brightness near the middle and turn off sharpness.

I'm sorry if this has been asked a billion times in this thread, but wow, 273 pages. I'm new to these forums and to the HD world. I currently have a 53" Sony SDTV rear projection (about 5 years old). I'm ready to take the leap into HD and have decided on getting a Samsung DLP.

I just got back from my local Tweeters where they were trying to sell me the Samsung HLR6178W (61" or the 56" model). I'm not actually planning on purchasing from there, just wanted to look at a decent selection of sets.

Is paying the extra $1K-2K worth getting 1080p? The HLR6167W (not 1080p) cost way less, and there aren't any sources of 1080p content right now (or in the near future from what I can tell by reading other threads on this forum).

Would I be shooting myself in the foot in not getting 1080p? I'm not worried about 1080p on the PS3, or upcoming BluRay/HD (which from what I can tell most likely wont offer true 1080p for a while anyways) but mostly from content providers (DTV/Cable Providers).

But I want this TV to last me another 3-5 years like my Sony has. I don't want to buy it then in a year and a half have providers start pushing down 1080p content and I'm left thinking "Why didn't I just pay the extra money and get 1080p?"

Just wondering what how the 1080p owners feel about their purchase. Thanks.

EDIT: No mention of 1080i on the 6167 in the official specs?

Have you called Mitsu and asked them about the problem, I'm sure they would be happy to setup a service call to exchange the fan.
I did call service and the tech said just to exchange the set since I am within the 30 days- he did not even come to the house to look at it, just told me over the phone.
From reading the Mitsu1080 p thread it looks like the noisy fan problem is with all of them but I really am not sure.

Reading the Samsung 1080p thread tells me that Samsung is really quiet, but is it as good a tv though as the Mit..........................

I did call service and the tech said just to exchange the set since I am within the 30 days- he did not even come to the house to look at it, just told me over the phone.
From reading the Mitsu1080 p thread it looks like the noisy fan problem is with all of them but I really am not sure.

Reading the Samsung 1080p thread tells me that Samsung is really quiet, but is it as good a tv though as the Mit..........................

Hi Mitset:

In my opinion, the Samsung is a very good TV! In fact, it has an amazing picture. However, I can't comment on how it compares to the Mitsu - you will have to make that determination yourself by looking at the 2 sets side by side. FRY's here in the Bay Area carries both TVs for example.

Good luck.

I did call service and the tech said just to exchange the set since I am within the 30 days- he did not even come to the house to look at it, just told me over the phone.
From reading the Mitsu1080 p thread it looks like the noisy fan problem is with all of them but I really am not sure.

Reading the Samsung 1080p thread tells me that Samsung is really quiet, but is it as good a tv though as the Mit..........................
Yes ... it is as good, you might want to consider stepping up from 52" to a 56" Samsung to maximize the benefits from 1080p.

Yes ... it is as good, you might want to consider stepping up from 52" to a 56" Samsung to maximize the benefits from 1080p.
I would but I have to go with the 50" sammy because of entertainment center size. Thats why I originally picked 52" mit because it fits perfect in opening.

The Mits doesn't have 1080 VGA right? I think that is a big plus for the Sammy for your computer or 360.

Thebarge, first, there is already 1080 broadcasts and there is more content on its way. The XBox 360 I think is 1080 too? You can connect a HTPC and afaik HD DVD players will be 1080. HD camcorders are too. The Sammy converts any 1080i signal to p. You will be kicking yourself if you go 720, not 1080. Sammy just announced their new DLPs for April and there is a thread on them. I'd save up for the current model or next model before going 720. Like you said, price is the only reason for going 720 and I think that would be a mistake.

I'm sorry if this has been asked a billion times in this thread, but wow, 273 pages. I'm new to these forums and to the HD world. I currently have a 53" Sony SDTV rear projection (about 5 years old). I'm ready to take the leap into HD and have decided on getting a Samsung DLP.

I just got back from my local Tweeters where they were trying to sell me the Samsung HLR6178W (61" or the 56" model). I'm not actually planning on purchasing from there, just wanted to look at a decent selection of sets.

Is paying the extra $1K-2K worth getting 1080p? The HLR6167W (not 1080p) cost way less, and there aren't any sources of 1080p content right now (or in the near future from what I can tell by reading other threads on this forum).

Would I be shooting myself in the foot in not getting 1080p? I'm not worried about 1080p on the PS3, or upcoming BluRay/HD (which from what I can tell most likely wont offer true 1080p for a while anyways) but mostly from content providers (DTV/Cable Providers).

But I want this TV to last me another 3-5 years like my Sony has. I don't want to buy it then in a year and a half have providers start pushing down 1080p content and I'm left thinking "Why didn't I just pay the extra money and get 1080p?"

Just wondering what how the 1080p owners feel about their purchase. Thanks.

EDIT: No mention of 1080i on the 6167 in the official specs?

These questions have been asked many time, but here is the condensed version:
> Price difference should be less than you are quoting between 720p and 1080p, keep shopping.
> 1080p content is not the issue, this set converts current HD content (most of which is 1080i) to 1080p. HD DVD is coming this year.
> You would be shooting yourself in the foot ... yes.
> The issue is not 1080p content, but rather clean conversion and display of 720p and 1080i content.
> The 1080p sets have higher contrast, better picture, and additional HDMI input.

If you can afford the 1080p set, buy it. If you can't, wait until April when the 2006 sets come out, they will be cheaper. Price difference between 1080p and 720p will narrow to $500.

These questions have been asked many time, but here is the condensed version:
> Price difference should be less than you are quoting between 720p and 1080p, keep shopping.
> 1080p content is not the issue, this set converts current HD content (most of which is 1080i) to 1080p. HD DVD is coming this year.
> You would be shooting yourself in the foot ... yes.
> The issue is not 1080p content, but rather clean conversion and display of 720p and 1080i content.
> The 1080p sets have higher contrast, better picture, and additional HDMI input.

If you can afford the 1080p set, buy it. If you can't, wait until April when the 2006 sets come out, they will be cheaper. Price difference between 1080p and 720p will narrow to $500.Thanks very much for the helpful reply. I agree and think I'll definitely feel a bit of buyers remorse down the road if I go with the 720p model. My wife won't like to hear that though :) So looks like I'm going with the 1080p, again thanks!

Well I just wanted to chime in on my broke DLP saga. As of The first week of Jan. I called the repair shop and was told the tech had not looked at the set because he needed to get his equipment downstairs to work on it. I know that was BS and an excuse so I called Sammy CS to file a so called VOC complaint directly to samsung and got a complaint number thingy. I finished my 2 page letter that I had wrote previously and I faxed a copy and mailed a copy certified mail to Samsung. In he letter I stated that I believed that it needed a DMD board based on the troubleshooting chart in my SM.

I also decided to go in person to the repair shop with SM in hand. I got there and talked to a guy that was probably mid to late 20's and he looked up my invoice and miraculously they had received a DMD board. That was on Tuesday the 3rd of Jan. oh he said I might get it back that Thursday or possibly the begininng of this week. We had a brief conversation about my TV and I didn't want to get to argumenative about it in hopes of getting my set back quicker. Well I have not heard a word and I assume nothing has been done yet. Amazingly I actually got a call from Samsung executive customer support today. The funny thing is the phone number ID showed unknown and I asked what number I could call him at and was told to call the regular number. He asked if I had received my set back yet and I explained the situation and he said to call them if I didn't get it back by the end of the week.
I suspect Samsung actually sent the DMD board to them based on my complaint letter and the repairshop has yet to touch my TV. That's just my suspicion but I may be wrong. I just wanted to comment on the secretive way the CS rep was about giving me a phone number to call him back at. I guess they block their numbers and don't like giving them out. I guess this is 2nd tier support so maybe that's the reason. He did not say if they were proactive about sending the part so I don't know how much correspondence have transpired between the repair shop and Samsung.

Bottom line is they have had my set for more than a month and until last week haven't touched it. I can't go to anyone else as they are the only choice at this point.

This has not been a pleasant experience thus far. :(

I'll ask. I wasn't too impressed by the knowledge of the last tech they sent. I hope this makes sense to them. Otherwise, I may have to do it myself. Where do you get a service manuel. Does someone have a copy.

Sounds like the tech just swapped boards and left. I am not surprised. He would have needed a big mirror and your help to make that adjustment. I suggest you try adjusting the ring focus yourself. You have nothing to lose I am assuming that the picture is ok in all other respects except focus.

Here's the link for the procedure.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6562152&&#post6562152

Let us know how you make out.

Hey johnnyzcar,

Good grief! You need to go postal on those idiots who are screwing you all over central Florida! Yikes!
I will bet that your set will never be the same after being repaired. You are screwed!

The thing that's got me thinking about getting a UPS isn't so much my concern for cooling the bulb when the power goes out, but making up for the power dip every time my air conditioner turns on -- all the lights in the house dim for an appreciable fraction of a second. :eek: Does anyone know what impact that could have on one of these sets (or a DVR, for that matter)?

a UPS will not make up for the power dip.... You can still get fluctuating voltages which would require a something like the Moster Power AVP2000.
PS the Signature series looks sweet.

Sounds like compression errors/faults. You will see DCT blocks show up with fine detail and motion. SOme stations will have more errors if they are multicasting. See if the CBS affiliate has the same blocks. They tend to compress less and use the entire 19.4 bandwidth to one program. Take a look at the Letterman Show. Excellent PQ.

You may find turning down the sharpness lessens the edges around objects.

I've got the same set and I'm very happy.


Unfortunately I don't have CBS in my area in HD. ABC, NBC, FOX, PBS are the only majors that are HD so far other than ESPN etc... My biggest complaint comes from PBS and Discovery HD. With Discovery I see alot of what I call noise. Whereas PBS has obvious and large pixelization. HDNet airs alot of hockey and looks incredible. I have yet to see any garbage from HDNet as far as I can recall. I guess I was hoping to get from Samsung tier 2 whether or not this is a DLP phenomenon or what? My parents have a Hitachi CRT based HD set and it does not appear to have the distortion mine does. Do you see the same noise on Discovery? I just moments ago noticed a moving mountain shot where the video seems to hesitate like the TV cant keep up. Maybe I expect too much I don't know....... I feel I should mention however, that even with my complaints, I still feel that between all the LCD and DLP sets I looked at this Samsung looked the best, and still does. Which is why I ask, am I expecting too much.

Thanks very much for the helpful reply. I agree and think I'll definitely feel a bit of buyers remorse down the road if I go with the 720p model. My wife won't like to hear that though :) So looks like I'm going with the 1080p, again thanks!

What UCSB said above is 1000% correct.

I'd also wait 3-4 months and get the 1080P. You WILL have buyer's remorse if you get the 720P now and on a big ticket item nothing is worse than the dreaded Buyer's Remorse.

Also, does anyone know if the DNIe demo is a true depiction of what the picture would look like without DNIe on?

Halco, what a really nice and ridiculous thing to say. He should be all set with the new board and if not he now knows how to handle it since it will be a separate issue. I would even suggest to test the set at their location before they deliver it and not sign for it until it is plugged in at his house and tested again. The whole point to these sets is the parts just plug in. You can't really screw anything up. It does seem you might have to make adjustments to the new parts but you should still be better off than you were with the set broken. Also noticed how fast Sammy jumped. Try that with Sony or some others.

Thommy, voltage drops throughout the entire house shouldn't happen these days. I would check the house wiring or circuit breaker/fuse and see how old everything is. You might also look to see how old the air cond is. Is there a chance the fuse could be wrong? I'd check all of that first.

Halco is the same guy who told me to move to a different city.
(Halco)Maybe your trying to be funny, maybe not but you come across like a smart Axx!
If you have something intelligent to say speak up otherwise STFU.
:)

lol

bump

Kurajo, the Demo is just a simulation. It is a black overlay, over the image to give you an idea of what it might look like. People here for the most part prefer it off but some lately have tried it and prefer it on.

What UCSB said above is 1000% correct.

I'd also wait 3-4 months and get the 1080P. You WILL have buyer's remorse if you get the 720P now and on a big ticket item nothing is worse than the dreaded Buyer's Remorse.My thoughts exactly. On a big ticket item I don't want to walk away feeling like I made a mistake. I'm moving soon (March timeframe) and not planning to make the final purchase until I get into my new house. Hopefully prices will fall some by then.

I don't know if you would buy a new 2005 car for a discount or get the 2006 but Sammy just announced the next generation model would be around April. You would think it wouldn't be too much later if it is at all. The next model is supposed to drop in price too. You might be better off seeing how far the current model drops and compare the features.

Thommy, you'll have problems with any electronics, computer and things like the frig. Nothing is made to take a voltage drop. You might notice the frig go before the Sammy but either way it isn't good. Now that I think of it you might even call the electric company and see if they can check the line and what not for free? I had problems like that and I even lost power before I got my Sammy. It would happen about once a month for four months. I reported it to the electric company but finally someone said I was the only one with a problem. It turns out the connection from the pole to my house was bad and they replaced the connection.

Are there any other "discounts" from these forum sponsors for anything? TVA had a great deal. I was interested in the Buttkicker for instance or other extras.

New model in April???? This reminds me of the commercial of the guy struttin in his car with his arm draped over his new T5 computer as he notices the billboard showing off the T5. Moments later the sign guys change it to T6 right in front of him....

i.e.... I just bought mine 3 weeks ago....... Mine is supposed to be the best model for ever and ever and ever..... please don't say I should have waited....

I've got a basement HT area (13x12) w/7' ceiling in a 5.1 configuration.

So far, I've got an HLR 6168 + Micra 6's for speakers. It will mainly be used for HDTV, DDTV, SDTV (SA4200HD cable box for now, hopefully FIOS soon) and DVD's.

I need a receiver and DVD player. I was maybe thinking about a Pioneer 1015. I'm open to any suggestions, comments or recommendations on receivers and DVD players (looking for the least configuration/sync problems, etc); I'm looking to spend +/- $800 for the combo. IOW, who's got an HLR xx68 and is real happy with their receiver/DVD setup.

It's time to finish the project (wife thinks I'm addicted to the Forum) and enjoy the system.

Thanks - Ken

Ken,
For the money your talking, I really like Marantz. Although I don't own one myself I have pointed several friends to Marantz. They all love them. Pioneer, Sony, JVC, Denon were all ones we compare each time... They just seem to really like the Marantz. As far as DVD is concerned, March is supposed to be the release of Toshiba and others new HD-DVD. Blu-Ray to follow with their high def DVD

Addicted to the forum? I'm sure I'm not the only one who visits here before checking email? lol.

Kurajo, I don't think there is anything wrong with getting the Sammy, it is the best out there. You should realize by now though that timing is everything. CES just ended, and I think the sets were shipping last July was it? The way I look at it is you are enjoying it now. Yes, people have had it for months but who knows for sure when the new models will arrive in stores? Most of the time products have delays. Few are on schedule and I wonder if any products were available sooner than they expected? Can you really wait at least four months? Only you can decide but I think everyone here is very happy with their purchase.

My biggest complaint comes from PBS and Discovery HD. With Discovery I see alot of what I call noise. Whereas PBS has obvious and large pixelization. HDNet airs alot of hockey and looks incredible. ... I still feel that between all the LCD and DLP sets I looked at this Samsung looked the best, and still does. Which is why I ask, am I expecting too much.
If some pictures look "incredible" on one channel, then the set is working like it should. Discovery and PBS look great on my set but you do see variances.

Digital cable may be causing some of the distortions. OTA transmitters may be using part of the bandwidth for other SD channels.

And you are right. A lot of detail and fast motion puts the hurt on MPEG-2 compression. Also, smokey or foggy scenes will show contouring effects and stress the compression. Remember, in the beginning of research into broadcast HD, it was thought impossible to use only one 6 Mhz signal. They thought they would need at least two channels.

The new HD disks have around 40 Mb/sec. bandwidth so that picture should look great compared to the max 19.4 OTA bandwidth.

How close are you sitting from your set?

The thing is that other than a PC - there isnt any consumer hardware out that outputs 1080P source material. I would assume that being first to market and keeping cost down, Samsung focused on supporting what was currently available and not speculation on what "might" be available.

Yes - I believe sometime in 2006 we will see true 1080P DLP TV because Sony has already committed components that will output that source. But about the same time the 2006 models are released, we will hear rumors about a new advancement that will make people think about waiting until 2007. It never ends.

Have you guys heard this website? I see in the next few years we will be using our PC to play ALOT of HD content on our tv's
since i cant post weblinks yet, look up wmvhd.
You can download 1080P or 720P samples! I just need to stop hearing that there is no 1080p content available to view.

After going through thousands (OK, maybe hundreds) of posts on this thread and good deal of Googling, I wanted to come here and ask this question:
Given the SMPTE-C color coordinates for R G and B, how do we "teach" these values to the HL-Rs? What are those values, well here is an Excel file based on my research (fact defaults, ITU-R BT.709-5 HDTV, SMPTE-C).
But the fundamental question is, how do I calibrate the TV according to these numbers?
There is a sub-menu called CCA (can be turned ON/OFF) with several color coordinate settings, such as Blue-x, Blue-y, Blue-Y and some with "D" in front of them such as DBlueX, DBlueY (notice that there is no 3rd dimension). When I set the color coordiantes according to ITU or SMPTE standard values (seem to be the value is multiplied by 1000 in Samsung menus), it seems like there is waaay too much green in the picture. When I turn CCA to OFF with the new values, the image is much more "realistic in color reproduction".
And to top it off, there is a "Cinema CCA" menu where there are yet another set of color coordinate parameters. I set the primaries to the ITU and/or SMPTE standard values as well, and they seem to be giving the best result, together with CCA=OFF in the previous menu.
I heard, either on this forum or another website, that there are "target color reproduction" values. Is this why there are different settings?
Can someone shed some light on this? Or am I really in the professional calibrator territory at this point, and Eliab would smack me for asking so many questions :cool:

I've got a basement HT area (13x12) w/7' ceiling in a 5.1 configuration.

So far, I've got an HLR 6168 + Micra 6's for speakers. It will mainly be used for HDTV, DDTV, SDTV (SA4200HD cable box for now, hopefully FIOS soon) and DVD's.

I need a receiver and DVD player. I was maybe thinking about a Pioneer 1015. I'm open to any suggestions, comments or recommendations on receivers and DVD players (looking for the least configuration/sync problems, etc); I'm looking to spend +/- $800 for the combo. IOW, who's got an HLR xx68 and is real happy with their receiver/DVD setup.

It's time to finish the project (wife thinks I'm addicted to the Forum) and enjoy the system.

Thanks - Ken

I strongly suggest you consider a receiver that has audio delay. You need it to correct the lip sync problems. Some possible models are Yamaha rx-v1400/1500/1600 and Denon 3805.

I've got a basement HT area (13x12) w/7' ceiling in a 5.1 configuration.

So far, I've got an HLR 6168 + Micra 6's for speakers. It will mainly be used for HDTV, DDTV, SDTV (SA4200HD cable box for now, hopefully FIOS soon) and DVD's.

I need a receiver and DVD player. I was maybe thinking about a Pioneer 1015. I'm open to any suggestions, comments or recommendations on receivers and DVD players (looking for the least configuration/sync problems, etc); I'm looking to spend +/- $800 for the combo. IOW, who's got an HLR xx68 and is real happy with their receiver/DVD setup.

It's time to finish the project (wife thinks I'm addicted to the Forum) and enjoy the system.

Thanks - Ken

Chrislam is right to consider a receiver with audio delay due to lip sync issues. I'm not sure how much of a delay the Yamaha RX-V1400, 1500 or 1600 have but if its not at least 120 MS it may not be enough.

Since your system is 5.1 you may not need to pay the premium on a 6.1 or 7.1 receiver - unless you plan to add more speakers later.

Also with an $800 overall budget I'm not sure if you can get a receiver with a long enough integrated audio delay feature and a decent upconverting DVD player.

Consider a FELSTON (http://www.felston.com) audio delay device which you can get here (http://www.lipfix.com) and an OPPO (http://www.oppodigital.com./) DVD player. Both have very good reviews on this forum (I have both too) and are reasonably priced. With those two units if you add another $100 to your budget you can fit in a very nice Yamaha AV/R.

The Oppo currently has a 50MS delay (not enough with the Sammy 6168 unless you turn off DNLE) and I've read that with a future downloadable firmware update OPPO may try to increase it to 150MS or so.

Chrislam is right to consider a receiver with audio delay due to lip sync issues. I'm not sure how much of a delay the Yamaha RX-V1400, 1500 or 1600 have but if its not at least 120 MS it may not be enough

The lower end Yahaha receivers have a 160 ms delay (Model #V457). The higher end ones have a 240ms delay (Model #V1600).

Baygins,

I've asked the same question much earlier in this thread. I've got the Colorfacts Eye One that I use to calibrate my CRT front projector. I just adjust cutoff (G2) and drive (gain) for each color (RGB) and I've got a good color and grey scale. I'm not sure how to do it with this digital set. You've gotten farther than me obviously and I'll take a look at the items you mention in the service menu. Hopefully some kind soul will chime in and tell us how to calibrate the color and gey scale tracking on these. Please? :)

Cary

Have you guys heard this website? I see in the next few years we will be using our PC to play ALOT of HD content on our tv's
since i cant post weblinks yet, look up wmvhd.
You can download 1080P or 720P samples! I just need to stop hearing that there is no 1080p content available to view.
When film is transferred today to HD, it is usually transferred at 1080p24. However, there is no native 1080p60 material. No commercial mobile unit or production facility can record 1080p60 yet.

What web site were you referring to?

Chrislam is right to consider a receiver with audio delay due to lip sync issues. I'm not sure how much of a delay the Yamaha RX-V1400, 1500 or 1600 have but if its not at least 120 MS it may not be enough.

Since your system is 5.1 you may not need to pay the premium on a 6.1 or 7.1 receiver - unless you plan to add more speakers later.

Also with an $800 overall budget I'm not sure if you can get a receiver with a long enough integrated audio delay feature and a decent upconverting DVD player.

Consider a FELSTON (http://www.felston.com) audio delay device which you can get here (http://www.lipfix.com) and an OPPO (http://www.oppodigital.com./) DVD player. Both have very good reviews on this forum (I have both too) and are reasonably priced. With those two units if you add another $100 to your budget you can fit in a very nice Yamaha AV/R.

The Oppo currently has a 50MS delay (not enough with the Sammy 6168 unless you turn off DNLE) and I've read that with a future downloadable firmware update OPPO may try to increase it to 150MS or so.

I'm thinking of buying the Yamaha RX-V1500. Its audio delay is up to 240ms. Online price is about $550. The newly released RX-V1600 is about $200 more. It has HDMI/DVI switching and video deinterlacing. Since my Sammy already has these features, I think I may not need to spend the extra $200. I'm still comparing these two though. Any idea where I can find an "in-depth" comparison between the 1500 and 1600?

One drawback with the Yamaha receivers is that the audio delay appears to apply to all sources. Since lip sync problem occurs with DVD but not with the built-in TV tuner, I may have to set this audio delay EVERY time I switch between TV and DVD. The Felston will not have this problem since it is directly attached to the DVD digital output.

I may need to evaluate the Denon and Harmon Kardon, two other brands that offer audio delay.

Unfortunately I don't have CBS in my area in HD. ABC, NBC, FOX, PBS are the only majors that are HD so far other than ESPN etc... My biggest complaint comes from PBS and Discovery HD. With Discovery I see alot of what I call noise. Whereas PBS has obvious and large pixelization. HDNet airs alot of hockey and looks incredible. I have yet to see any garbage from HDNet as far as I can recall. I guess I was hoping to get from Samsung tier 2 whether or not this is a DLP phenomenon or what? My parents have a Hitachi CRT based HD set and it does not appear to have the distortion mine does. Do you see the same noise on Discovery? I just moments ago noticed a moving mountain shot where the video seems to hesitate like the TV cant keep up. Maybe I expect too much I don't know....... I feel I should mention however, that even with my complaints, I still feel that between all the LCD and DLP sets I looked at this Samsung looked the best, and still does. Which is why I ask, am I expecting too much.
This all sounds like your cable provider. With OTA broadcasts I don't have very many issues with pixelization or banding. I have even looked at standard def TV from cable providers and say pixelization and also looked at Dish HDTV on others sets and the quality was inferior. I think this is a case where actually the OTA broadcasters are doing a lot better job on doing HDTV than the sat or cable guys do.

I may need to evaluate the Denon and Harmon Kardon, two other brands that offer audio delay.I have the HK AVR 635 and it has high quality delay for all inputs. The reason I also have the Felston unit is that the HK can only do 80 ms. The Felston has two inputs and can remember six different delay settings for each input.

When film is transferred today to HD, it is usually transferred at 1080p24. However, there is no native 1080p60 material. No commercial mobile unit or production facility can record 1080p60 yet.

What web site were you referring to?

A related question to Videopark:

Other than casual comparisons at the stores, which may not be accurate due to many factors, has there been any formal study done comparing the video quality of 1080i source displayed on 1080p vs. 720p TV? To me, this is THE most relevant consideration amid all the mis-information and confusion surrounding 1080p TVs.

I may need to evaluate the Denon and Harmon Kardon, two other brands that offer audio delay.

Both the Harman Kardon and Denon offer receivers with audio delay that can be set individually for each analog and digital input. That is a big advantage in my opinion.

Both the Harman Kardon and Denon offer receivers with audio delay that can abe set individually for each analog and digital input. That is a big advantage in my opinion.

I agree audio-delay-per-source is a big advantage. I think I'll buy the Denon 3805. It is a surprisingly simple decision. Harmon/Kardon AVR 635's delay of 80ms is too short. Their higher level models are far more expensive.

Hi,

I recently bought the HLR6168 and I am having an issue with a white line appearing on the top of the screen. It seems as though the picture needs to be moved higher vertically as the ticker on some channels is slightly obscured on the bottom. I have not seen anything in the manual for vertically repositioning a TV signal.

Any help would be appreciated.

Paul.

Pdvale, there is a way to adjust that, someone here will know but what is the source on the input?

I agree audio-delay-per-source is a big advantage. I think I'll buy the Denon 3805. It is a surprisingly simple decision. Harmon/Kardon AVR 635's delay of 80ms is too short. Their higher level models are far more expensive.


I haven't been following the thread the last week. I had the same concerns as you and bought the HK 7300 with a 80ms delay. with my direct TV TIVO I have it set for 65 and it is in perfect sync with the TV speakers. The TV out to the receiver is set for zero and is fine. The odd thing is if I have the AVR on TV and am watching the TIVO the audio is actualy behind the TV audio so the receiver may have a small inheant delay or the TV processes the sound out at a silghtly different delay than the internal speakers. Anyway switching the AVR to TIVO and the sybc is perfect at 65ms. I have an OPPO DVD the AVR is set for 75ms and the OPPO is set to 0ms. I am very pleased with the results although I shared your concerns during the purchasing. Good luck with whatever you choose I know many people are talking higher numbers but maybe different receivers act a little differently.

Hi,

I recently bought the HLR6168 and I am having an issue with a white line appearing on the top of the screen. It seems as though the picture needs to be moved higher vertically as the ticker on some channels is slightly obscured on the bottom. I have not seen anything in the manual for vertically repositioning a TV signal.

Any help would be appreciated.

Paul.

You can adjust that position via the service menu...
In the DDP1011 menu there are horizontal and vertical position adjustments I had to adjust a friends set for the same reason...

Vincent

If some pictures look "incredible" on one channel, then the set is working like it should. Discovery and PBS look great on my set but you do see variances.

Digital cable may be causing some of the distortions. OTA transmitters may be using part of the bandwidth for other SD channels.

And you are right. A lot of detail and fast motion puts the hurt on MPEG-2 compression. Also, smokey or foggy scenes will show contouring effects and stress the compression. Remember, in the beginning of research into broadcast HD, it was thought impossible to use only one 6 Mhz signal. They thought they would need at least two channels.

The new HD disks have around 40 Mb/sec. bandwidth so that picture should look great compared to the max 19.4 OTA bandwidth.

How close are you sitting from your set?


Right now I sit about 8-9 feet away until home theater basement is complete. I was worried because OTA produces the same pixelization in PBS as cable. On ALL channels I watch in HD if the shot is a close face shot or thereabouts the picture looks GREAT. Its distant shots that shows the noise. Where there is a great deal more information to process.

I do like the TV, and as I mentioned earlier....it was and still is the best one on display at the store.

AM I ADDICTED TO THE FORUM????? Either that or I'm sick. Makes for intersting reading as I am and have always been a Home Theater freak. Need more excersize though...Perhaps AVS could offer some health insurance or something?

Hi,

I recently bought the HLR6168 and I am having an issue with a white line appearing on the top of the screen. It seems as though the picture needs to be moved higher vertically as the ticker on some channels is slightly obscured on the bottom. I have not seen anything in the manual for vertically repositioning a TV signal.

Any help would be appreciated.

Paul.

I would call Samsung and have them adjust it rather going through the hassle yourself in the Service Menu with all its associated risks.

Tilt Adjustment

I have a 5688, the pedestal model.

I took off the service panel in the back, removed the Guide Duct on the right side and the screen back cover. There are three screws to loosen, the two by the left vertical knob and the center one on the right. You can see through the back of the unit to watch the picture move.

A is the left vertical knob, B is the left horizontal knob and C is the right lower knob. In the instructions it says:

- To adjust up or downwards; 1) turn control level (A) clockwise(CW), and turn control level (B) counter-clockwise (CCW). The picture will move up based on the TV cabinet. 2) turn control level (A) counter-clockwise(CCW), and turn control level (B) clockwise (CW). The picture will move down based on the TV cabinet.
- To adjust left or right, turn control level (C) clockwise (CW) or counter-clockwise (CCW). The picture will move left or right.
- To adjust the tilt: 1) Turn control level (A) and control level (B) clockwise (CW) simultaneously. The picture will rotate left based on the TV cabinet. 2) Turn control level (A) and control level (B) counter-clockwise (CCW) simultaneously. The picture will rotate right based on the TV cabinet.

Tighten the screws after the adjustment.

The odd thing is if I have the AVR on TV and am watching the TIVO the audio is actualy behind the TV audio so the receiver may have a small inheant delay or the TV processes the sound out at a silghtly different delay than the internal speakers.

The DirecTV signal is about a second behind the OTA signal. This is not a lip sync issue, the actual feed (of both audio and video) from DirecTV is behind the OTA feed.

Has anyone found a different source for a replacement bulb other than samsungparts.com? I have a 6168 with the bulb BP96-01073A. Samsung wants $200 for a replacement.

D

The DirecTV signal is about a second behind the OTA signal. This is not a lip sync issue, the actual feed (of both audio and video) from DirecTV is behind the OTA feed.


I was running the directv sound through the TV and back out to the receiver and found the audio delayed where it was in perfect sync with OTA. Not a problem if I use the AVR I just use the digital out of the directv box and set the delay on the AVR.

I only run the audio through the TV because the wife uses the TV audio when I am not there.

I was running the directv sound through the TV and back out to the receiver and found the audio delayed where it was in perfect sync with OTA. Not a problem if I use the AVR I just use the digital out of the directv box and set the delay on the AVR.

I only run the audio through the TV because the wife uses the TV audio when I am not there.

It seems in general the HD channel's picture and sound (either OTA or cable) lags behind the OTA analog channel. Ican see the picture lag just by watching both on the twin view of my Sony set.

Not sure why the hd has to be delayed like that? I hate the tv broadcasters on WGN Bulls games, but listening to radio doesn't work since the radio play by play is ahead of the tv picture.

Chrislam, progressive sets, plasma, LCD, DLP will give you a smoother picture since it is like a computer image and not like an interlaced traditional CRT SD image. Most new and high end sets are progressive. They either convert an interlaced image or accept a progressive one. a 1080 image has that much more detail than 720. Yes, the Sammy I guess converts the 720 to 1080, but the p stays the same. I think right now there are fewer new 720 HDTV sets being sold now since those were the first available. Bottom line is 1080 is the way to go, which happens to be progressive, which will give you a better image. Keep in mind HTPC use on a 1080p set too.

Chrislam, progressive sets, plasma, LCD, DLP will give you a smoother picture since it is like a computer image and not like an interlaced traditional CRT SD image. Most new and high end sets are progressive. They either convert an interlaced image or accept a progressive one. a 1080 image has that much more detail than 720. Yes, the Sammy I guess converts the 720 to 1080, but the p stays the same. I think right now there are fewer new 720 HDTV sets being sold now since those were the first available. Bottom line is 1080 is the way to go, which happens to be progressive, which will give you a better image. Keep in mind HTPC use on a 1080p set too.

Further, the 1080p sets give you the added advantage of allowing you to be closer to the TV. This can mean a bigger screen for some folks. I myself am at 9-10 ft away from my 6168 and its totally fine.

I still use a VCR in those rare instances I need to do some recording lately. I have been just setting the VCR to record from "Line 1" (which is hooked to my Samsung's TV-OUT) and then separately setting the TV (via the TV Guide Online) to turn the TV on at the same time the VCR starts recording.

I decided to finally hook up the G-Link cable and sync it up with my VCR. My question is this: Will the Samsung *always* tune the VCR to the channel I have set for recording on the TV Guide Online. My VCR isn't hooked to the cable at all, so it only gets a signal from the TV itself. However, the TV changes the channel on the VCR to 35, for example, which takes it off of the "line 1" channel, so it tunes itself to snow.

Is there a way to set the TV Guide Online to not change the VCR's channel?

The cable where my TV sits is already split once because my cable modem is in the same place, so I don't want to split it again and run it to the VCR too.

Thanks in advance...
SV

Are there any settings or ways to reduce rainbow effect?
I didn't notice them for the 1st two months I had my HL-R5078W, now I see them while watching scenes with large black areas.

Turn down the contrast/picture setting. What do you currently have this set to?

I have been using mostly standard or movie, sometimes some modified custom settings.

All of a sudden, I started noticing RBE, but it's not too bad. Only when looking away from the screen with large, all black areas.

I mean what do you have the Picture/Contrast set to? You might try reducing it to 75, 70, 65, 60 and see if that helps. You'll probably reach a point where you have to trade-off overall picture dullness for reduced rainbows. I.e. you may have to settle for a dull picture to get less rainbows or have more rainbows with a brighter picture. Or, just decrease the picture/contrast setting for dark content that produces rainbows.

Also, try not watching in a dark room by introducing some ambient light. You could also try not moving your eyes quickly away from the TV. But if rainbows get too intolerable and you are not willing to compromize PQ then you might need to look for a different type of TV.


Contrast had been set at appx. 70. Lowering it helped, as did increasing brightness and reducing sharpness. But it dulls the picture. It's not enough of a problem to make me not love this TV. Any idea why I would start seeing RBE all of a sudden? I tried dozens of times before and could never see them. Now, I can't help it.

I tried running my Comcast service directly from the wall into my Samsung HL-R5078W HDTV. I used the cable in coax input. I was not able to get any channels on the main tuner, but the pip tuner picked up a few. No HD channels were shown.
Shouldn't I be able to use the TV's tuner just like I do on my other TV's? I don't use STB's on my other TV's.

I tried running my Comcast service directly from the wall into my Samsung HL-R5078W HDTV. I used the cable in coax input. I was not able to get any channels on the main tuner, but the pip tuner picked up a few. No HD channels were shown.
Shouldn't I be able to use the TV's tuner just like I do on my other TV's? I don't use STB's on my other TV's.
It should work, just make sure you go through the set and use the auto tune function to find all of the stations. If you are not seeing them, you have the cable connected to the wrong coax input ... switch inputs.

It should work, just make sure you go through the set and use the auto tune function to find all of the stations. If you are not seeing them, you have the cable connected to the wrong coax input ... switch inputs.

I'll try again, but I'm curious as to why I picked up channels on the PIP tuner, and none on the main tuner. Also, the PIP tuner only picked up a few channels.
Shouldn't I be able to get the "free" HD channels over cable w/no STB? (ABC, CBS, NBC not ESPN etc.)

DNIe.... Can anyone who has a 6168 tell me what SNI_ settings are set to off by default? I had not adjusted any but CEP and WTE were off on mine. So is the NR setting

DNIe.... Can anyone who has a 6168 tell me what SNI_ settings are set to off by default? I had not adjusted any but CEP and WTE were off on mine. So is the NR setting


See post 7454 of this thread.

I'll try again, but I'm curious as to why I picked up channels on the PIP tuner, and none on the main tuner. Also, the PIP tuner only picked up a few channels.
Shouldn't I be able to get the "free" HD channels over cable w/no STB? (ABC, CBS, NBC not ESPN etc.)

I get the free HD channels on my Sony SXRD. Is the PIP tuner only for analog channels?

This thread is impossible to navigate. Its too big! LOL. I am about to pull the trigger on the 5688w (pedestal), but before buying and paying a non-refundable shipping cost, I would really like if someone could answer these questions...

Can I hook this TV up with my PC to watch wmvhd/divx/xvid content and browse my PC?

If I use my Xbox 360 with this TV will I experience audio and/or video lag?!

These two things are mainly what I want to do with my TV. I was going to get the E50A10, but SDE just really bugs me, and I dont mind rainbow effect so I want the DLP. But if I am going to get game lag and poor PC connection, I'll accept SDE and get the LCD. Your help is GREATLY appreciated!!

I'll try again, but I'm curious as to why I picked up channels on the PIP tuner, and none on the main tuner. Also, the PIP tuner only picked up a few channels.
Shouldn't I be able to get the "free" HD channels over cable w/no STB? (ABC, CBS, NBC not ESPN etc.)

IF your Comcast is the same as mine...all the HD channels are numbered 702, 706, 708, etc. Any channel over 98 (on my local Comast) is a Digital Cable channel, and thus you need either one of Comcast's cable boxes or a CableCard to pick them up.
You can't just get those higher channels with the coax alone.

You should be able to get all the analog channels just fine, and if you've set your TV to find the channels the right way, and your coax is cooked up to CABLE and not to AIR, you should be able to get those analog channels.

SV

Chrislam, progressive sets, plasma, LCD, DLP will give you a smoother picture since it is like a computer image and not like an interlaced traditional CRT SD image. Most new and high end sets are progressive. They either convert an interlaced image or accept a progressive one. a 1080 image has that much more detail than 720. Yes, the Sammy I guess converts the 720 to 1080, but the p stays the same. I think right now there are fewer new 720 HDTV sets being sold now since those were the first available. Bottom line is 1080 is the way to go, which happens to be progressive, which will give you a better image. Keep in mind HTPC use on a 1080p set too.

I wasn't comparing progressive vs. interlaced displays. My original posting was about displaying 1080i source on either 1080p or 720p TVs. Theoretically 1920x1080 (interlaced) source when displayed on a 1280x720p set should suffer degradation significantly due to scaling. However, to me, side-by-side comparisons between 1080p and 720p TVs seem to show that the difference is rather subtle, with the exception of sharp edges such as text or graphics. I was wondering if there are serious studies done on the video quality difference.

Further, the 1080p sets give you the added advantage of allowing you to be closer to the TV. This can mean a bigger screen for some folks. I myself am at 9-10 ft away from my 6168 and its totally fine.

This is a very good point, one which is often overlooked in discussions about 1080p. The viewing distance is directly proportional to the spacing between scan lines, so this benefit is quite easy to demonstrate. If I were a TV salesman, I'd definitely bring it up.

This thread is impossible to navigate. Its too big! LOL. I am about to pull the trigger on the 5688w (pedestal), but before buying and paying a non-refundable shipping cost, I would really like if someone could answer these questions...

Can I hook this TV up with my PC to watch wmvhd/divx/xvid content and browse my PC?

If I use my Xbox 360 with this TV will I experience audio and/or video lag?!

These two things are mainly what I want to do with my TV. I was going to get the E50A10, but SDE just really bugs me, and I dont mind rainbow effect so I want the DLP. But if I am going to get game lag and poor PC connection, I'll accept SDE and get the LCD. Your help is GREATLY appreciated!!

I have the 5688w and I have hooked up my pc to it without a problem. I just changed my video card settings and some of the pc settings on the tv. As for the xbox 360 I have no clue because I do not have one. Check out post number #8000 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6821343&&#post6821343 This might help with pc settings. My screen seemed a little bright when I was playing BF2 or Americas Army but I really didn't try to mess around with any settigns to correct it. As for lag, there didn't seem to be too much at all in my case.

Get the VGA adapter for the Xbox 360. there is no lag when using the vga input on the 1080P samsungs with the 360.

Just got a 5678 two weeks back - hD is simply killer on this. SD - Not so good -

Question...
I thought this TV ONLY pulled/Listed "sources" IF something was plugged into Jacks in the back. ....

Yet one of the sources is 'cable' Even though I have nothing plugged into the coax jacks - (I have my cable coming in to the component jacks) - Any way I can stop this bogus 'source' ?

Q2: The 'still' feature is nice, especially in that this tv doesn't have 'burn in' issues - BUT when I DO use it, it leaves the icon 'Still' on the screen - Isn't that redundant? Can it be optioned off?

Same thing with the 'mute' icon - stays on and 'I get it'. - would be nice if it faded off after 10 sec or so.

Are these options available in the service menu?


Fritz Jung

Hdtvbostonma, I don't really know but I would think those HD channels would be scrambled so you'd need Comsucks' cable stb or card? The HD channels are only "free" with their equipment, which they charge more for than SD afaik.

Chrislam, watching 1080 on a 720 is great. Watching HD converted to SD on a DVD is great, better than SD on a DVD. I don't think it is an issue with what you are losing, going 1080 but what you are missing going 720. I or P isn't an issue, its the details you're missing. Watch HD football games if you can or TV shows in 720 and 1080 and you'll see the difference. 24 is in HD this season on Sunday on Fox, 720 and NBC shows are 1080. I don't know of any study but your eyes are probably the best test and you should notice a difference.

anyone have any new information about Mac Mini hooked to VGA input on these sets? does it work easily and look good?

just wondering what the main advantages are going with an HLRxxx8W over something like a Sharp Aquos LCD (besides price).

Just got a 5678 two weeks back - hD is simply killer on this. SD - Not so good -

Question...
I thought this TV ONLY pulled/Listed "sources" IF something was plugged into Jacks in the back. ....

Yet one of the sources is 'cable' Even though I have nothing plugged into the coax jacks - (I have my cable coming in to the component jacks) - Any way I can stop this bogus 'source' ?

Fritz Jung
Only the HDMI sources behave this way.

Strider5, I think the better question is what is the difference between the LCD model you mention and the Sammy DLP? Those are apples and oranges. Everything else will fall into place, like the VGA.

All you veteran Microdisplay owners, please vote on lamp life here;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=629175

Hey everyone,

I am trying to program a Philips Pronto Neo for my father-in-law to use on his Samsung HL-R5678W.

Is there a way to ge discrete codes emitted using the OEM remote that came with the TV?

I am used to Mitsubishi remotes myself (I own a WS-55909) and Mits allows the user to input a key sequence into the remote to get it to emit discrete codes for the purpose of programming another remote. Do Samsung products do this as well?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

I specifically need discrete ON/Off codes, as well as discrete codes to directly switch to HDMI-1, DVD-1 (Component 1), VCR-1 (S-Video 1), and the PC input (VGA) as well.

HEEELP!

Thanks!

Has anyone noticed more/less RBE with HDMI vs. component input? I haven't tried changing, but I can't imagine there would be any difference.

Hey everyone,

I am trying to program a Philips Pronto Neo for my father-in-law to use on his Samsung HL-R5678W.

Is there a way to ge discrete codes emitted using the OEM remote that came with the TV?

I am used to Mitsubishi remotes myself (I own a WS-55909) and Mits allows the user to input a key sequence into the remote to get it to emit discrete codes for the purpose of programming another remote. Do Samsung products do this as well?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

I specifically need discrete ON/Off codes, as well as discrete codes to directly switch to HDMI-1, DVD-1 (Component 1), VCR-1 (S-Video 1), and the PC input (VGA) as well.

HEEELP!

Thanks!
I'm away from my main computer right now, but I will send you a file containing those codes later today.

It seems in general the HD channel's picture and sound (either OTA or cable) lags behind the OTA analog channel. Ican see the picture lag just by watching both on the twin view of my Sony set.

Not sure why the hd has to be delayed like that? I hate the tv broadcasters on WGN Bulls games, but listening to radio doesn't work since the radio play by play is ahead of the tv picture.

It is the nature of a digital stream, it will ALWAYS lag the analog output. In this case, it takes about two seconds worth of data frames to for the algorithms to lock and begin to decode the information. Analog "data" is displayed directly. That is also true of electronic analog computers, they solve at the speed of light.

Get the VGA adapter for the Xbox 360. there is no lag when using the vga input on the 1080P samsungs with the 360.

Then what input to use with PC? DVI-to-HDMI cable? Will that work ok?

I get the free HD channels on my Sony SXRD. Is the PIP tuner only for analog channels?

Do you have Comcast?
Do you get HD and/or digital via cable without using a cable box?

Seeing a string of misfortunes and reports of shortcomings outlined here, I almost feel guilty to report good news.

Actually this would be sort of GOOD NEWS/BAD NEWS.

I have a 6768 that David Abrams (Avical) calibrated back in November. At that time David promised to return to install Velux panels. As Aaronwt has reported, though, the Velux panel installation in the 68 series proved to be problematic.

However, because David kept his velux promise and installed velux cloth in my 6768 instead of the panels. This installation is tedious and laborious and David has said that he will not do it as again. THIS is the BAD NEWS.

The GOOD NEWS... The picture quality after the installation is ....what would be the right adjective.... ummm... STUNNING, maybe. Before installation, when the set was on, but with no signal, the screen was a splotchy gray. After installation, almost completely black.

This change in basic black level makes a dramatic difference in picture "snap". Conan O'Brien in his monologue (against the dark backdrop) looks like he is in the room with me. And the Autumn scene from "Hero" is literally breathtaking.

Maybe because my light engine was in pretty good shape before my calibration (the focus needed no adjustment), this velux installation has, to my eye, made a bigger difference in picture quality than that original calibration.

Still basking in the "Whuuuuu" factor,

Jim

P.S. I've had more than one person ask me, "Why doesn't Samsung deliver these sets with the matte black interior?" And that is a good question.

I use my 6168 with my PC at 1920x1080 via the VGA connection... No lag, and it looks stunning.

I have an XBOX that is currently hooked up via component. I have not noticed any bad lag, but I have DNIe (the Samsung edge enhancement) turned off in the service menu, and I understand that helps avoid lag. There is no lag on the VGA input, and I'm going to try a VGA connection this weekend.

One issue is that the TV only has one VGA input. You can purchase a KVM switch that allows you to plug multiple VGA sources into a single VGA input, but I have not tried this to see if there is any impact on quality. Anyone have any experience with that?

Hdtvbostonma, I'm not sure if you were the recent poster on RBE, it looked that way? I too noticed RBE after a couple of months. The problem with RBE is once you notice it you are constantly looking for it. I consider it like an optical illusion. It is only noticeable when conditions are right. I would change the settings you made back the way they were. After about two weeks you'll stop noticing or looking for the RBE. I sit to the side of the set as I work at my computer so I thought that might have something to do with it. It seems as long as you stop turning your head quickly or shifting your eyes, it will stop. I don't think anyone who sits still watching TV has RBE.

Well, I got my 6768 back from the repair shop,..... and yes the TV is screwed up.
On a black screen or a low light screen I can see funny looking hash marks across the top of the screen and some funny shaped blotches or shapes on the screen that are slightly brighter than the background. I was able to take pictures of this phenomenon with the lights turned off. I will post these pics. It looks like something in the light tunnel or path thats reflecting.
I spent the better part of the day on the phone with Sammy Executive CS and actually had a guy helping me and said he would take this to the top for me if need be. When he came back on the phone he said he talked to the top guys and that Im stuck with the same people to fix it. He did mention that it's samsungs policy that anything over 26" is NOT supposed to be taken from the house for repair.
The guys at the shadetree TV repair shop think Im just making all this up to get a new set. I think the only resolution is to get a new TV after they borked this one up. On the phone today with ____ TV repair the guy told me no matter what I did I would not get a new TV they were not going to help me and didn't believe there was anything wrong with the TV. Samsung wanted to have them come back to pickup the set again, and take it back to the shop AGAIN. The problem is that the repair guy doesn't go on service calls, he sits at the shop fixing stuff while the mules go pickup stuff. I have yet to be able to talk to him in person.

Today I went to a shop that I trust just to ask a question and he seemed to know exactly what was going on, the only problem is that he is not Samsung authorized and if he opens the set my warranty is gone.

I asked the guy at Samsung if I could write a letter of appreciation for him helping me and he could not give me an address to send it to nor could I call him personally. I just dont get it I bought this thing new it breaks after a month and then it gets hosed by the repair shop and now I'm hung out to dry.

So I guess my options are paying out of pocket for the TV to be repaired correctly hiring a lawyer and trying to recover my expenses, or dealing with the idiots that couldn't get it right the first time.

Do you have lemon laws in your state? Not widely known is that lemon laws basically apply to warranties and are not limited to automobiles. If you have to go the legal route, it's info you should research.

Sorry that you're having such horrible luck. I had great service from Samsung on my 5688, but I was dealing with an actual Samsung tech.

Hi All,

About a month ago I purchased a 5668 after doing a lot of research --- mainly from this forum. The picture is truly stunning, but as of yesterday I noted what appears to be an approximately 2mm sized diamond-shaped speck on the inside of the screen near the top. It is only visible when whites or lighter colors are displayed. At first I thought it was dust on the screen or an artifact from the content, but it is definitely inside the TV and remains regardless of the content . I'm certain that this was not there during the past few weeks. I would think that the tv would be hermetically sealed and dust wouldn't get inside the tv, on a lens, etc.. Any ideas what it might be and how I can get it fixed? Thanks.

I have a 6178 for a couple of weeks. Presently, I have the picture set at:
Movie:
Contrast: 70
Brightness: 60
Sharpness: 60
Color: 52

At these settings, I think the picture is perfect. After I turn the set off and later, on, the picture looks darker until I go into the menu and change the settings from Movie, to Standard or Dynamic and back to Movie. Then the picture looks like before. What could be causing this? I hate to have to do this every time I turn on the TV. Has anyone else seen this?

Art

AR, have you given enough time to let the lamp warm up? The picture is normally dark at first and moments later the picture is bright. It might also depend on the lighting in the room.

AR - Do your comparisons with a known reference source. Use a calibration DVD with a test pattern (AVIA, etc.) that shows the effect you are seeing. Allow a sufficient warm-up time and control your room lighting as bcvp suggests. Record your settings, including time off / on.

Being able to quantify a repeatable problem is half the battle. To answer your question, I don't see any problems with my 6768- but I need to wait a few minutes for the lamp to warm up.

Johnnyzcar, PM me if you'd like. This is absurd. The first thing I thought of before seeing the pics are probably finger prints. After looking at the pics I still think that is most likely. Sort of like the smudge issue, but we know some monkeys were in your set. Ask to see the gloves they use. I doubt they have any. The issue is you have documented everything and to me your bottom line is how to get the set repaired or replaced. I think at this rate though you should check with the BBB on the repair shop. I wouldn't file a report right now but I don't think you're the only one with a problem. Also, make sure any repair they do will only be done at your house so you can watch them. Period. Have them call Samsung and explain why they can't. I would also see who is the next "closest" facility since these people are already out of the way. North, south, whatever. The repair facility has nothing to do with deciding if you need a new set at this point. I think you did a good job documenting everything. The only issue I have with you is not checking the set before they left your house or better yet leave the shop. Did you sign anything or make a note of anything? Is the case and screen in the same condition as when they picked it up? If it is fingerprints it will be more difficult to clean. If it is dust or something I'm sure they can air blast it out of the way. I think all of this is on the LE, which I think they replaced right? Do you have the old part or did you see it? I guess they must have replaced it otherwise you'd have the same issues. Now that you have the set, know how it has new problems, I would call Samsung and start demanding. Either they pay for a better shop even further away or they can work on replacing it. You've followed all of their directions and have been very patient, I assume paying interest on a TV you didn't have for a long time. I think if you went to their site before you call them and found the closest shops you'd have some ammunition for them. You might also contact your rep at TVA right? Did you get an extended warranty? You bought the set based on the warranty and service you expect after the sale. Otherwise you would have bought a Mits. What do you think?

Johnnyzcar, PM me if you'd like. This is absurd. The first thing I thought of before seeing the pics are probably finger prints. After looking at the pics I still think that is most likely. Sort of like the smudge issue, but we know some monkeys were in your set. Ask to see the gloves they use. I doubt they have any. The issue is you have documented everything and to me your bottom line is how to get the set repaired or replaced. I think at this rate though you should check with the BBB on the repair shop. I wouldn't file a report right now but I don't think you're the only one with a problem. Also, make sure any repair they do will only be done at your house so you can watch them. Period. Have them call Samsung and explain why they can't. I would also see who is the next "closest" facility since these people are already out of the way. North, south, whatever. The repair facility has nothing to do with deciding if you need a new set at this point. I think you did a good job documenting everything. The only issue I have with you is not checking the set before they left your house or better yet leave the shop. Did you sign anything or make a note of anything? Is the case and screen in the same condition as when they picked it up? If it is fingerprints it will be more difficult to clean. If it is dust or something I'm sure they can air blast it out of the way. I think all of this is on the LE, which I think they replaced right? Do you have the old part or did you see it? I guess they must have replaced it otherwise you'd have the same issues. Now that you have the set, know how it has new problems, I would call Samsung and start demanding. Either they pay for a better shop even further away or they can work on replacing it. You've followed all of their directions and have been very patient, I assume paying interest on a TV you didn't have for a long time. I think if you went to their site before you call them and found the closest shops you'd have some ammunition for them. You might also contact your rep at TVA right? Did you get an extended warranty? You bought the set based on the warranty and service you expect after the sale. Otherwise you would have bought a Mits. What do you think?
Hi,
As far as finger prints go I'm not sure thats it because the shape of the blotches are like a backwards D like the opening for a plastic part or something. The hash marks are very symetrical and not organic looking though I might be wrong. When he dropped off the set it was mid day and I had to leave to go back to work, I plugged it in and it turned on with a picture but at night watching a movie is when I started noticing the odd shapes. You don't see them as well on a bright screen. I can't have the repair done here, says Samsung co at executive CS because the shop will NOT send the guy who actually works on the sets. I did try to demand that and was shut down. The guy Mike as Samsung actually said that the policy was that any set over 26" is supposed to be fixed in house. He took that to the top and his bosses told him in my case I guess it's the exception to the rule. For the repair facilities I can type in any FL zipcode on Samsungs website and get nothing. You have to actually call CS and wait on hold and have a zipcode for anytown FL to give them before the can give you a repairshop.
They replaced the DMD board and the digital board, not the whole light engine.
I spent all afternoon demanding and I'm still in the same position, I did talk to someone (repair shop) who Can fix it but at my expense.
As far as TVA goes , yeah I bought from them and felt comfortable that I wouldn't get screwed based on remarks here but when I called TVA at the 40 day mark or so, they said sorry call Samsung. Cambryn was the sales person and is aware of this problem and has PMed me general keep me informed messages but I think that was just to keep me hanging, so I got no love for them and would not recommend them to anyone personally.They are a form sonsor and I think that has something to do with all the good posts, just my opinion.
I have shopped for 3 TVs last year for other people like friends and family and 2 were Samsung and 1 was Mits, so I can attest to customer care for the Samungs and it stinks if you don't live next to a good repair shop.
I honestly think that Samsung could care less and the same for TVA, once they have your money and you are on your own if it's day 31. I am not paying interest because of the financing I got w my CC but I am still paying on a balance just the same. So at this point I think my TV was setting at the shop for the same amount of time that I have used it. When I first got it it had a great picture then it died, now after repairs I have geometric shapes on my screen, YAY!

I think I would turn it around then. Call Sam and find out what it takes to get a replacement. You have had two problems already. I would also tell them you bought it from TVA and see what they say. I'd bet they are very close. Tell them how long it took to get the set back for the parts they replaced. I'd bet that is too long. I would also tell them if the shop can't do the work at your house you want them to find someone who can. They should work it out with TVA and send you another one. After all the prodding Sam did take care of it. I guess you waited until things were really bad, which was the right thing to do. Now that you have a history you can get right on it and take care of this issue. I would test the crap out of the set before they pick it up again. I would also document the condition of the screen and case and all of that so that you can prove any new damage. I just hope this is the last issue for you and that the set will be perfect after all this.

.....I am not paying interest because of the financing I got w my CC but I am still paying on a balance just the same. So at this point I think my TV was setting at the shop for the same amount of time that I have used it. When I first got it it had a great picture then it died, now after repairs I have geometric shapes on my screen, YAY!

Another angle is to look at your CC terms. Are you still within 60 or 90 days? You could have them reverse the charge for a defective item that they haven't made good on. Some CC companies include performance guarantees.

You still have plenty of options at your disposal and I'm a bit surprised Samsung is not stepping up to the plate here. Unless your local repair guy is torpedoing the problem description in his conversations with Samsung?

I've been happy with the way they treated me, but make no mistake, there would be hell to pay if I was getting run around the way you seem to be.

I would also tell them if the shop can't do the work at your house you want them to find someone who can.
This issue has been taken to the top at Samsung and they say they have to take it in and not work on it here because the tech stays at the store and the delivery people pick up and drop off. Actually I had a guy tell me that the policy is anything over 26" is not to be taken from the premises. He talked to his bosses and was told they have to pick it up so I don't know. Yes the shop is torpedoing my efforts, for some reason this kid Matt has taken it upon himself to try and prevent me from getting an exchange. He tried to tell me that if I purchased a 30,000 Mercedes and it had water in the headlight that I couldn't get a new car, LOL I don't know which mercedes cost 30 grand but if I bought one and it had the engine fall out, you can bet your Axx that I would want a new one and better yet not have the guy at discount auto replacing it for me. I knew there would not be any knowledgeable people around here to get this right, Samsung is not helping me to resolve this issue, they don't care.
I will be contacting the BBB and then an attorney if need be.

It's been longer thatn 90 days now on my credit card and if I did a charge back it would go to TVA. It sat in the shop for over a month before they even tried to fix it. If it goes back it will be another month. It wouldnt hurt to make a call to TVA and I'll do that on monday.

This issue has been taken to the top at Samsung and they say they have to take it in and not work on it here because the tech stays at the store and the delivery people pick up and drop off. Actually I had a guy tell me that the policy is anything over 26" is not to be taken from the premises. He talked to his bosses and was told they have to pick it up so I don't know. Yes the shop is torpedoing my efforts, for some reason this kid Matt has taken it upon himself to try and prevent me from getting an exchange. He tried to tell me that if I purchased a 30,000 Mercedes and it had water in the headlight that I couldn't get a new car, LOL I don't know which mercedes cost 30 grand but if I bought one and it had the engine fall out, you can bet your Axx that I would want a new one and better yet not have the guy at discount auto replacing it for me. I knew there would not be any knowledgeable people around here to get this right, Samsung is not helping me to resolve this issue, they don't care.
I will be contacting the BBB and then an attorney if need be.

It's been longer thatn 90 days now on my credit card and if I did a charge back it would go to TVA. It sat in the shop for over a month before they even tried to fix it. If it goes back it will be another month. It wouldnt hurt to make a call to TVA and I'll do that on monday.


Boy, reading your posts is painful! If I were you, I would send that TV right back to the dealer, call the credit card company, and if need be, a lawyer. You don't need all this aggravation for the money you spent on the set. For $300, get it out of your hair and into the hands of someone who can fix it or REPLACE it! Thats's my .02 for what it's worth.

AR, have you given enough time to let the lamp warm up? The picture is normally dark at first and moments later the picture is bright. It might also depend on the lighting in the room

Let me be clearer: The shadow areas in a particular scene is darker with no details until I switch modes (dynamic, standard etc.) and then back to movie mode.

Art

Boy, reading your posts is painful! If I were you, I would send that TV right back to the dealer, call the credit card company, and if need be, a lawyer. You don't need all this aggravation for the money you spent on the set. For $300, get it out of your hair and into the hands of someone who can fix it or REPLACE it! Thats's my .02 for what it's worth.
I'm not sure I understand you here, so the 300 would be my cost to ship it or for the cost of paying for a repair. I f I shiped it back to TVA without prior authorization they might not even accept it. If I have to pay for a repair that will be after all other avenues are exhausted with pending litigation I'm sure.
The only thing I'm asking for is somebody to make this right, and to get what I paid for. All they have to do is set up anexchange and take the old set back and fix it (the right way) and resell it as refurbished or remanufactured. I buy refurb stuff from Onkyo all the time with good results, so they could do same. It seems like they don't want to take any TV back, even if it is not functioning as it should.

Let me be clearer: The shadow areas in a particular scene is darker with no details until I switch modes (dynamic, standard etc.) and then back to movie mode.

Art
That issue has been talked about many times here. It's a bug if you want to call it that and I think everybody has noticed it on the new Samsung DLPs. I always switch to standard then back to movie after switching sources. I think there was a discrete remote code here that you could program to a remote to do the switch with one button rather than going into the menu.

If you read through this thread i know there has been discussion of what you are describing.

Something's wrong. You should have a right to use another shop in your area. I tried to find one myself and the stupid page doesn't have the HL-R line listed and it can't find it when I punch it in manually. WTF? I sent them a reply to their web page survey and let them have it. How can the whole line not be listed? How did you find your shop? Call Sam back and tell them how long it took this shop to fix it and how you took it back with a new issue that wasn't there when they picked it up. Central FL? How far is Orlando or something? I wouldn't take this crap. No other shop picks it up right, afaik? I'm thinking if you looked in the phone book and found the shop you used. If you can then other shops should be listed in the area. Maybe use an online phone book? If you can find three other shops that are just as Sam authorized as this guy, I'd see if they pick it up or not. I'm also thinking you must have family or friends outside your area where you can take the TV to and call their local shop. I'm thinking it might not fit in your car but you might know someone with a pickup or you can rent a truck for Home Depot or someone. Once you "moved" you won't be using that shop. Then when you are positive everything is fixed you can "move back." I'm even thinking of a motel. This is crap and I would tell, not speak to Sam about this. I'd hold off on the legal and BBB action until you either have a new set that is 100% perfect after testing it or that you have had yours fixed. Taking that action now doesn't help get this taken care of. After the fact will.

Well I spent a long time Googling and couldn't get anywhere. I think the phone book is your best bet. Then I thought if you have the extended warranty through TVA or someone that you could find out who they use. They have to be just as authorized. They might have a longer list of shops too.

hey guys haven't posted in a while, had alot on my plate lately. Running into a peculiar problem.

i was given a Dell dimensions 4500 from a family member that no longer needed it. I went ahead and re-formatted it and removed all the dell crap, and at the same time plugged in a new video card, more ram, and a SB 5.1. (all stuff i had laying around from this box im using right now) i run it at 1920x1080 and use it mainly to play Top Gear episodes from the BBC that we dont get here in the states. Its hooked up via a 6foot vga to vga cable. TV is set to PC. For those that are looking to do somethign similar ill provide the specs, and mention that it handles everythign i've throw at it great so far, which includes new games with high demands.

2.0 ghz pentium
9600xt
SB live 5.1
512mb ram
80gig HD

anyways on to my 'problem'. When i finish up using the HTPC and click on my harmony to change over to my DVR(sa 8300hd) I'll get snow across the entire screen. This wont go away until i go to a HD channel where the TV will jump to a blue screen for a split second, and then display things normally. Powering my cable box on and off does not change a thing so i figured it had something to do with the TV itself. anyone have any ideas whats up?