This is velux - this is the exact same stuff that Eliab uses... The part number was provided by him for reference from another website. I have this stuff and trust me it is black....
Great that sounds good. It just looked different on the web site. Cheaper to on that website.

BCVP---When & how will you be installing the Velux or similar material to your TV?
I have a HL-R5078W, and I'm curious about the process.
Have you taken the cover off yet?
How difficult of a job is this?
Also, what settings have you changed, and have yoy had any problems with the TV?
THANKS!!!!

I have to put the velux on the back burner for now. I really don't have time for it. Its one of those procrastination tasks I want to do now but I know I shouldn't right now. I will report back when I order it, install and what not. If my procrastination gets the better of me I might have it done next week. lol.

I'm embarrassed to report here that my new settings are Standard Warm1. lol. I don't know if that is the default? I guess it is since I didn't change anything? I find the skin tone to be natural and maybe more accurate? The strange thing is the audio stuck and the inputs did too but the color settings I guess you'd call them didn't stick. Thinking now off the top of my head, the LE doesn't have audio and doesn't know about inputs, it just displays the current signal so that might make sense actually?

Sorry, I forgot to add that the CC top line is intermittent. I guess it wasn't there when the tech. and I tested the set at first. Its as though the top line drops down on occasion for some reason. You'd think it would either be there or not, it doesn't make sense that the scan lines move if that makes sense? Samsung called me this morning and I gave the tech. the highest review possible. I was very impressed and pleased.

Thanks to all with the help.

I am not really concerned about that one channel, since it doesn't have any HD programming.

Johnnyzcar, I wanted to get an update. I think you said you'd be away and would report back here? I think you or someone said you had another thread going about your progress but you know what they say, what happens in this thread stays in this thread. lol.

After experiencing first hand the replacing of a LE, I thought of you. Like I said earlier, the LE is fairly large and heavy. It is also full of components. I really doubt they simply throw the whole broken LE out. I think "new" LEs are refurbished LEs. Since the whole set is under warranty, the LE isn't necessarily separate. I guess if there was a problem with the repair then that would be covered, like what happened to you unfortunately. I think what happened in your case was either they damaged the replacement LE as they were installing it or the LE they installed had a quality control issue. The new LE has a lens cover for instance, like a SLR camera. I can see them taking the cover off and letting the LE sit on the table. Then they grab it and they brush it up against something like their shirt. The plastic cowl over the lens looked cheap enough that it could be possible to damage it since it is not made to be touched.

The LE is so easy to replace that the hard part is getting to the back of the set without tripping over any wires, moving the set away from the wall to gain access and open the back cover. I think my tech. took thirty minutes to replace the LE since we were talking the whole time about the set, video editing and computers. It wouldn't take five minutes to install if I had the set ready to get to the LE. I was thinking she'd replace something near the lens since that seemed to be my issue with the left side stripe, from the front by removing the screen.

Wow I having David come sometime next month to do mine. David did my old set a couple of times and he does a great job.

I have mine collapsed and on the floor of my garage. Eventually I'll toss it but if you need service they'll just service it in house.

I figured. I guess breaking it down would be smart...thanks for the info. With my luck I trash the box and then need to ship the unit back for some reason...

I'm keeping the box for now, its been three months, since I plan to move one of these days to Vegas. I know, I've been saying that for a couple of years but with this blizzard on its way I can only take so much. I really don't have room for the box though and I just have it stacked on a bunch of stuff I have stored in a bedroom. I don't have a basement to use.

Hey Guys, im new to this forum, you guys seem to really know what your talking about.. Anyway, I just bought the HL-R6168 1080p set... And I have a few questions..
1. After watching for a few hours, my eyes were killing me and developed a raging headache....any tips on proper picture settings, everything seems too bright. (Yes, i turned down the Brightness :) )
2. On Some channels the dialogue is not properly sync'd with the video.. weird
3. Standard TV looks like garbage..looks better on my old tube tv but HDTV looks awesome..any pointers?

Thanks and apologies again for the noobish questions.

Darth

I know it sounds counterintuitive, but if it is too bright, you need to turn down the contrast. Brightness controls how bright the dark parts of the picture are. Turning it down will just hide detail in the dark parts of the image. Contrast controls how bright the bright parts of the picture are. I would suggest the Movie picture preset as a starting point for toning things down a bit.

If you have a digital camera and can take a few shots of the screen removal process, it would give us a better idea of how difficult the project might be for those considering a DIY install.

Attached are the Before & After.

****
edit
****

The AVS server hiccupped on the upload of a third photo showing the wiring. I include in the post that follows.


Jim

howdy, new poster to the forum. i've been reading thru the threads for a couple of weeks though. i just got in my samsung 7178 and i've had a couple of problems with the stand but i'm getting them resolved now. also, i'm using the sony dav-fr1 as my dvd/surround sound. anyways, i haven't messed with any of the settings so i was wondering what are the first things i should be doing with it. thanks in advance

Attached are the Before & After.

****
edit
****

The AVS server hiccupped on the upload of a third photo showing the wiring. I include in the post that follows.


Jim


The wide shot shows the wiring coming from the lower right center off the set. This wire attached to the screen's wiring shown in the screen close-up.

The close-up of the lens shows a critical area. The lens throws an extremely wide projection of light and the velux can catch it at this point. A little of the left portion of the lens had to be trimmed later because it intruded on the projected light.

The set's interior is full of bumps and slats that are adhesive unfriendly. This complicates attempts to lay in large swathes of cloth.


Jim

Pixguy what is the reflection of the floor on the top of the case?Is it a mirror or what?

Pixguy what is the reflection of the floor on the top of the case?Is it a mirror or what?

The image at the top is the mirror reflecting my oak floor. It is a remarkably clean looking mirror. Then again, it's supposed to be.


Jim

The wide shot shows the wiring coming from the lower right center off the set. This wire attached to the screen's wiring shown in the screen close-up.

The close-up of the lens shows a critical area. The lens throws an extremely wide projection of light and the velux can catch it at this point. A little of the left portion of the lens had to be trimmed later because it intruded on the projected light.

The set's interior is full of bumps and slats that are adhesive unfriendly. This complicates attempts to lay in large swathes of cloth.


Jim
Thanks for the photos. The job seems do-able. How difficult was it to remove the screen? Any special tools or tricks? When the job was completed, what differences did you notice in PQ?

I hate to sound stupid, but what is the wire inside the screen? I didn't understand if it is some sort of ground or something for static electricity? Doesn't make sense? As I recall the screen is made up of at least two components. Does the screen stay together in one piece when its removed? It seems too easy to remove the screen and too difficult to cut the velux in the right shapes.

The wide shot shows the wiring coming from the lower right center off the set. This wire attached to the screen's wiring shown in the screen close-up.

The close-up of the lens shows a critical area. The lens throws an extremely wide projection of light and the velux can catch it at this point. A little of the left portion of the lens had to be trimmed later because it intruded on the projected light.

The set's interior is full of bumps and slats that are adhesive unfriendly. This complicates attempts to lay in large swathes of cloth.


Jim
Which model is your TV?
Were you able to cut small pieces to fit the small bumps?
What happens if a seam is not perfect?
How long does it take?
It looks as if you did a very good job!!
Also, when you take off the screen, is what you show all that you see?
How's the PQ now?
THANKS!!!!

Which model is your TV?
Were you able to cut small pieces to fit the small bumps?
What happens if a seam is not perfect?
How long does it take?
It looks as if you did a very good job!!
Also, when you take off the screen, is what you show all that you see?
How's the PQ now?
THANKS!!!!
i think you could fit a few more questions in there! :D

I hate to sound stupid, but what is the wire inside the screen?

The wire is to the A/V inputs on the right of the screen. If you don't use them you may not have noticed that they are there.


J.

P.S.
I am at work right now....more later.

Sorry, that makes sense, I did forget about them and I thought they were further back on the side. Looking at my 5678 I think those wires are for the menu buttons, not the inputs? Those are on the side of the screen and the inputs are on the side of the case. I didn't realize the whole screen is removed, I thought it was just the front. A pic of the removed screen from the side would help people here. There are several pics of the inside around but not of the screen.

A pic of the removed screen from the side would help people here. There are several pics of the inside around but not of the screen.


Sorry about that. I thought I had correctly uploaded three different pix. Take a look at the third picture again. I attach it here also.

The hanging wire you see in the wide shot clips to the inside of the screen and plugs into the small board assembly on the left.

By the looks of your pics Jim maybe 10' material was a lil much to by lol.Didnt realize a mirror was inside the TV reflecting the picture.

Thanks. That is a great pic. It looks to me like the screen is one big component and makes it very easy to grab and remove and put aside as you install the velux. Also, isn't the focus ring right there around the lens? Is there a marking on it or anything? On my old LE I thought some content was a little out of focus, like on my PC. Some text on SD content was also a little blurry, while other text seems sharp. I don't see how it could be a focus issue but I thought I'd try it. I haven't tested my new LE yet. If there was a marking it would be easy to test the focus and put it back where it was if you can't get a sharper image.

Just thinking now, there really isn't any reason for a tech. to remove the screen unless you had a physical screen issue or the menu buttons on the side had a problem. As long as you don't damage the lens or the menu board or wire I don't see how anyone could have an issue with installing the velux. Any damage is not under warranty anyway.

I did a Velux jobby on a Mitsubishi TV a few years ago.

Don't know if its unique to the material I used, but it sure did create a lot of dust.

You might want to cut it outside and vacuum it before installing it in the TV.

Dust in the material? I noticed it collects lint very easy.I unrolled just the corner of the roll and seen all the lint on it.Has anyone recieved a service manual amd how long did it take to get it? Seems like its taking forever.Been about 3 weeks since I ordered 1.Pixguy,has it made an improvement on the PQ since velux install or havent you gotten the screen on yet? Looks like the toughest job to install is the screen removal. Bill have you had your set calibrated or velux installed and if not do you plan on doing both?

Darthbrooklyn, the audio is normally out of sync if you are using an AVR due to the Sammy signal processing. If you are using the Sammy speakers like I am for now, you'll see the broadcast is out of sync. I have Comsucks and some stations like NBC and Fox had some really bad delays for about a week, a couple of months ago. I haven't noticed delays for about a month. As for the really bad picture quality on SD channels you should try changing the picture size from 16:9 to 4:3. The picture will be very clear but you get the stripes on the left and right. I find CNN has the best SD broadcast, you might want to compare the channels you watch to them.

Couple of new-owner questions (6168):

1. I looked at the back of my TV, and I do NOT appear to have a CableCard installed in the slot. However, I AM able to get HD channels from RCN Boston somehow (the onscreen display indicates they are HD, and the quality is definitely HD). How is this possible??

2. I have a regular Xbox (not 360) and I have read about how there IS lag and how there ISN'T lag ... I'm definitely getting lag on mine (about a second) when I plug into S-Video or the analog on the side. I've read that all models built after June 2005 have some sort of video game mode eliminates the lag ... is this true? I have ordered component cables for the Xbox in the hopes that helps solve the problem.

Any help would be appreciated!

1) Most cable companies, including RCN, send the HD versions of the local OTA channels "in the clear", i.e., not scrambled. The CableCard only does two things: identifies to the TV which of the premium, scrambled, channels you subscribe to, and provides a channel list of available channels and identifers. The QAM tuner in the TV will receive all the unscrambled digital and HD channels w/o a CableCard.


Couple of new-owner questions (6168):

1. I looked at the back of my TV, and I do NOT appear to have a CableCard installed in the slot. However, I AM able to get HD channels from RCN Boston somehow (the onscreen display indicates they are HD, and the quality is definitely HD). How is this possible??

2. I have a regular Xbox (not 360) and I have read about how there IS lag and how there ISN'T lag ... I'm definitely getting lag on mine (about a second) when I plug into S-Video or the analog on the side. I've read that all models built after June 2005 have some sort of video game mode eliminates the lag ... is this true? I have ordered component cables for the Xbox in the hopes that helps solve the problem.

Any help would be appreciated!

Darthbrooklyn, the audio is normally out of sync if you are using an AVR due to the Sammy signal processing. If you are using the Sammy speakers like I am for now, you'll see the broadcast is out of sync. I have Comsucks and some stations like NBC and Fox had some really bad delays for about a week, a couple of months ago. I haven't noticed delays for about a month. As for the really bad picture quality on SD channels you should try changing the picture size from 16:9 to 4:3. The picture will be very clear but you get the stripes on the left and right. I find CNN has the best SD broadcast, you might want to compare the channels you watch to them.

Thanks for the help.. I actually ran the audio from the HD STB direct to the TV and then used the optical out to the Reveiver and there is no more lag. HOWEVER, I am concerned that because i had to use regular RCA audio outs from the STB to the TV, that I wont be able to receive Dolby Digital broadcasts .. Is this the case?? The STB has optical audio and Digital Coax outs but the 6168 does not have an optical or digital coax in so im forced to use regular RCA audio cables from the STB to the TV. :( :(

Darthbrooklyn, the audio is normally out of sync if you are using an AVR due to the Sammy signal processing. If you are using the Sammy speakers like I am for now, you'll see the broadcast is out of sync. I have Comsucks and some stations like NBC and Fox had some really bad delays for about a week, a couple of months ago. I haven't noticed delays for about a month. As for the really bad picture quality on SD channels you should try changing the picture size from 16:9 to 4:3. The picture will be very clear but you get the stripes on the left and right. I find CNN has the best SD broadcast, you might want to compare the channels you watch to them.

Thanks for the help.. I actually ran the audio from the HD STB direct to the TV and then used the tvs optical out to the Reveiver and there is no more lag. HOWEVER, I am concerned that because i had to use regular RCA audio outs from the STB to the TV, that I wont be able to receive Dolby Digital broadcasts .. Is this the case?? The STB has optical audio and Digital Coax outs but the 6168 does not have an optical or digital coax IN so im forced to use regular RCA audio cables from the STB to the TV. :( :(

Afaik, the Sammy doesn't pass DD, like you said. I don't think it matters what audio cable or connection you use matters? I'm waiting for "the" AVR with 7.1, wireless rear speakers, HDMI, ind. delay and Sirius. I'm crossing my fingers.

Couple of new-owner questions (6168):


2. I have a regular Xbox (not 360) and I have read about how there IS lag and how there ISN'T lag ... I'm definitely getting lag on mine (about a second) when I plug into S-Video or the analog on the side. I've read that all models built after June 2005 have some sort of video game mode eliminates the lag ... is this true? I have ordered component cables for the Xbox in the hopes that helps solve the problem.

Any help would be appreciated!


I followed my wife's advice and "read the f**king manual". :)

Right there, plain as day, it taught me how to fix this issue. Thanks, all!

1) Most cable companies, including RCN, send the HD versions of the local OTA channels "in the clear", i.e., not scrambled. The CableCard only does two things: identifies to the TV which of the premium, scrambled, channels you subscribe to, and provides a channel list of available channels and identifers. The QAM tuner in the TV will receive all the unscrambled digital and HD channels w/o a CableCard.


Thanks ... so, would the quality of the image increase at all if I had them give me a Cablecard/set-top box? From a connection standpoint, the only difference would be that instead of the cable coming straight into the TV from the wall, it would instead go to the set-top box and then from the box to the TV via DVI.

They coming to "install" HD on Wednesday ... I'm just trying to figure out if I really need to spend another $10/mo for the set-top and for the CableCard when it *appears* I'm already getting HD.

Thanks for the help.. I actually ran the audio from the HD STB direct to the TV and then used the tvs optical out to the Reveiver and there is no more lag. HOWEVER, I am concerned that because i had to use regular RCA audio outs from the STB to the TV, that I wont be able to receive Dolby Digital broadcasts .. Is this the case?? The STB has optical audio and Digital Coax outs but the 6168 does not have an optical or digital coax IN so im forced to use regular RCA audio cables from the STB to the TV. :( :(

Did you set your receiver to PCM or Dolby? I am considering doing what you have done and was wondering which setting gave you better sound. Also, are you running surround or just stereo? With the RCA in, as I have also, can you get surround or is it just stereo in all the speakers? And do you know what effect using the HDMI into the tv from a dvd player has on the sound? Thanks for your help.

Tonight I removed the screen from my HL-R5668W to begin my velux mod. I was expecting the screen-removal process to be EXTREMELY difficult, but after it was all said and done I can honestly say that the entire screen-removal process wasn’t THAT bad! Not knowing what exactly to expect or where to pull on the screen was probably the hardest part… The following steps explain my procedure for screen removal on my HL-R5668W:

(1) Remove rear screws that hold screen in (don't forget the ones at the bottom). It may not be a bad idea to keep a few top screws in place at this time…
(2) Start to pull on the bottom part of the screen (with hand between the floating part of the bezel)... There are clips holding the center-bottom part of the screen in place, you need to pull with some force to get them to pop out. I found it easier to leave a few screws in on the top so I could focus on the bottom clips. With some good force, the screen should come freely and you will know so by hearing a popping sound. I did one side at a time for reference. The force required to get the screen to disengage was greater than I would had thought, so be prepared to pull.
(3) After the scary part is done, be sure to unplug the wire going to the ride side of the screen for the basic function buttons. If you left top screws in place, remember to remove them.

I plan on doing a write up full with pictures later in the week.

Best regards,

Steve

The Sammy won't take a 1080p HDMI signal. It will take a VGA 1080p signal from a PC, like you said. It will convert a 1080i to p, like they said. I think you are right about this but I'm not so sure you're right about the DVD players on their way? I've heard different information, most of it being that they will take a 1080i. You have to figure that the HP DLP just started shipping very recently, the first one to take a 1080p signal. There are thousands of LCD, plasma and DLP HDTV already sold that don't take the 1080p signal. I don't think everyone is stuck. The next Sammy will take a 1080p signal.

I called Samsung and they swore to me up and down that both VGA and HDMI will do 1920x1080p. The 'conversion' according to them was just converting signals to be displayed how the DLP set wants the image displayed. I hear VGA is fine, but what about HDMI? If this one doesn't do real 1080p over HDMI without any problems, this is a real downer. I need a new TV, because mine is way too small. If this one can't do 1080p over HDMI, then its out. I'm going to be getting blu-ray, and blu-ray won't accept 1080p via VGA, since VGA can't do HDCP, being VGA isn't digital.
The 2006 Samsung DLP's expected out in April will take a 1080p signal over HDMI.

The 2006 Samsung DLP's expected out in April will take a 1080p signal over HDMI.Thats great,but,there is no 1080p input now,or in the foreseeable future.Unless your a gamer.

Did you set your receiver to PCM or Dolby? I am considering doing what you have done and was wondering which setting gave you better sound. Also, are you running surround or just stereo? With the RCA in, as I have also, can you get surround or is it just stereo in all the speakers? And do you know what effect using the HDMI into the tv from a dvd player has on the sound? Thanks for your help.

My receiver is set to decode whatever material its being fed. I run a 5.1 setup.
I run HDMI cable to the tv for picture only.. I am using optical audio cable straight to the receiver from the DVD player and there is no lag at all. My only lag issues are with the HD STB

Another question: I am using an optical audio cable from the back of the 6168 to my reveiver. When i go into the sound menu on the tv to set the optical audio out to "Dolby" from "PCM" its grayed out and wont let me change it. Any thoughts?

That was sorta answered above...the TV won't pass through the Dolby Digital signals, it doesn't have a dolby digital "in" on the back.

This pass-through would probably solve a whole-lotta delay problems!

In your settings, what that Dolby Digital grayed-out means...if you're receiving DD5.1 via the TV's over-the-air tuner or from your CableCard, that optical-out on the TV will send out a DD 5.1 signal to your receiver. But it will stay grayed out unless the tuner is receiving such a signal...but it only sends DD from its tuner.

The problem that causes, is when we throw in our fancy DD5.1 DVDs, we have to send the audio to our receivers independently of the TV's circuitry, and thus the audio-sync problem was born.

The question I have: Is there a DVD player out there with an HDMI OUTPUT on it, that will pass the video AND multi-channel audio, and can the Samsung's actually take 5.1 through their HDMI port?


SV

The set's interior is full of bumps and slats that are adhesive unfriendly. This complicates attempts to lay in large swathes of cloth.


Jim


I also ordered some DuvePro tape(black fabric similar to Velux), in order to be more flexible around the tough corners and bumps. You can get the tape in various widths. I think I ordered some 3 inch tape. Hopefully, the Duve Tape will be a bit easier to work with for certain areas of the cabinet.


Skeeter,

Thanks for the write up on the screen removal. You confirmed pretty much the approach I was going to try myself. In terms of force applied for getting past those clips, did you ever get worried about breaking anything. Sounds like you were having to apply more force than I would like to on something like this. I am the guy that usually sees small plastic pieces fly when I apply too much pressure. :(

Skeeter,

Thanks for the write up on the screen removal. You confirmed pretty much the approach I was going to try myself. In terms of force applied for getting past those clips, did you ever get worried about breaking anything. Sounds like you were having to apply more force than I would like to on something like this. I am the guy that usually sees small plastic pieces fly when I apply too much pressure. :(

Pulling the first side off was pretty scary... Doing it a second time on the other side wasn't too bad though. I would just gradually increase the pulling force untill it pops and you should be OK.

Best regards,

Steve

The 2006 Samsung DLP's expected out in April will take a 1080p signal over HDMI.

But that doesn't tell the whole story. To really know what you've got, you have to specify frame rate and color depth now :) I believe the new Sammys will be 1080P 24fps capable. The new HDMI v1.3 spec will be 1080P 60fps and perhaps as much as 48 bit color capable, but those chips are not due in production quantities until late this year. Granted, there won't be any source material that uses those higher specs initially, but the point is just getting 1080P isn't the end all ;)

I've hooked a PC (with ATI Radeon 9800 AGP) to a Samsung HL-R6768W at 1080P. It works... except that trailing (RHS) edges of windows have ghosts... and details are not as crisp as I'd like. I'm guessing this is due to cheap VGA cables (Dynex from Best Buy, 10' extension cable, 6' replacement cable, male and female loose ends disconnected when not in use).

Is it likely that better cables (from www.BetterCables.com, for example) would help?

I've hooked a PC (with ATI Radeon 9800 AGP) to a Samsung HL-R6768W at 1080P. It works... except that trailing (RHS) edges of windows have ghosts... and details are not as crisp as I'd like. I'm guessing this is due to cheap VGA cables (Dynex from Best Buy, 10' extension cable, 6' replacement cable, male and female loose ends disconnected when not in use).

Is it likely that better cables (from www.BetterCables.com, for example) would help?

Actually, as strange as it may sound the HL-Rxxx8W line works best with cheaper VGA cables. The more expensive ones don't have all of the pins necessary to transmit the EID information... Just make sure that your cables are shielded and that your resolution is set to 1920x1080 @ 60 hz.. My set looks great with the VGA input and I am using the VGA cable that came with my 21" Sony CRT monitor. Also, for 1:1 pixel mapping make sure to maximize the screen size via the Samsung size controls. This does result in some overscan, but you will notice that text becomes crisper.

Best regards,

Steve

Does anyone know what exactly is disabled in "Game Mode"? Meaning, would there be a way to replicate the settings of "Game Mode" but still allow a 720/1080 resolution feed?

Cool cant wait to see it. What does David think about the HDMI vs Component connection and which did he reccomend you use? thanks

David really likes how HDMI works on these Samsung sets. He likes the Digital input a lot better than the standard component. He likes my set up a lot. He said that my monster cables were an added touch. He said any high end cable especially digital would make a difference, unlike component cables. David is so cool and very smart about these TV's. I bet he knows more than an acutal Samsung Tech.

He saw how I hooked up all my Monster cables and he was really impressed.
He did say that any high end cable would work just as good. I knew that. I prefer Monster over anything. Lifetime warranty too.

His suggestion to everyone is to always use Digital over component when you can. He did calibrate my unit so that digital would look just as good as any component input that I have connected, However digital HDMI looks so much better in my eyes. :)

Pulling the first side off was pretty scary... Doing it a second time on the other side wasn't too bad though. I would just gradually increase the pulling force untill it pops and you should be OK.

Best regards,

Steve

Taking the black edge/molding from the screens off the sets are real easy, but you have to be real careful or you will break the cheap plastic. It has 6 clips and pops right off. Then to remove the screen there are about 10 screws that hold it in. When you remove the screws, then side the screen about 1.4 inch to the left and remove it. They are held in by a sliding hook like metal piece that is built onto the TV's frame. That is it.
Reverse process to install the screen. The black molding then snaps back on.

Installing the black Velux was a lot harder and very tricky. ;)

GOOD LUCK TO ALL.

I hate to sound stupid, but what is the wire inside the screen? I didn't understand if it is some sort of ground or something for static electricity? Doesn't make sense? As I recall the screen is made up of at least two components. Does the screen stay together in one piece when its removed? It seems too easy to remove the screen and too difficult to cut the velux in the right shapes.

No Wiring at all. It takes abot 5 minutes to take the screen off. Very simple. Cutting the velux and laying it down is much harder. The mirror is very clean and very reflective. It has to be for the TV. David told me that Samsung has one of the best set ups and mirrors around.

I see that people have the Velux too close to the lens. You need to leave at least 1-2 inches all the way around the lens, because the lens throws a very wide image and the Velux will clip the image. You will see the clips marks in the picture.

Actually, as strange as it may sound the HL-Rxxx8W line works best with cheaper VGA cables. The more expensive ones don't have all of the pins necessary to transmit the EID information... Just make sure that your cables are shielded and that your resolution is set to 1920x1080 @ 60 hz.. My set looks great with the VGA input and I am using the VGA cable that came with my 21" Sony CRT monitor. Also, for 1:1 pixel mapping make sure to maximize the screen size via the Samsung size controls. This does result in some overscan, but you will notice that text becomes crisper.

Best regards,

Steve

Strange because my TV is the opposite. The better cables that I use the better PQ I get. I have tried them all and will stick with the higher end cables. Glad this worked for you.

Taking the black edge/molding from the screens off the sets are real easy, but you have to be real careful or you will break the cheap plastic. It has 6 clips and pops right off. Then to remove the screen there are about 10 screws that hold it in. When you remove the screws, then side the screen about 1.4 inch to the left and remove it. They are held in by a sliding hook like metal piece that is built onto the TV's frame. That is it.
Reverse process to install the screen. The black molding then snaps back on.

Installing the black Velux was a lot harder and very tricky. ;)

GOOD LUCK TO ALL.
I think you had a 78 series done, and their screens are a little different to remove. I believe the 68 series as shown in the pics earlier, is taken off in one piece. You basically remove most of the screws and then the screen just pops off. My Service Manual shows th 78 series and that has you removing the Samsung black frame, but not on the 68. I could be wrong, Skeeteroplagus has done it and can comment further if I am wrong.

Is there a way to set the TV back to out-of-the-box factory default (DNIe settings, etc) within the service menu of a 6168?

I had turned some of the DNIe settings off, then back on. It appeared that the changes had stuck.
However I exited the service menu by simply pressing power (as opposed to 'Mute-Mute-Power'). While I may not have done any harm, I'm thinking putting everything back to square one probably won't hurt (considering I just got the set a few days ago).

If I'm being too paranoid, please let me know.

Thanks!

Does anyone know what exactly is disabled in "Game Mode"? Meaning, would there be a way to replicate the settings of "Game Mode" but still allow a 720/1080 resolution feed?


In "game mode" if u have output source that transmit 480I resolution the TV will not do de-interlacing in this case u will see the picture interlaced on your TV with out DNI enabled , if u have 480p/720p/1080i resolution feed in this case the "game mode" will not work and DNI will be enabled on the TV.

Is there a way to set the TV back to out-of-the-box factory default (DNIe settings, etc) within the service menu of a 6168?

I had turned some of the DNIe settings off, then back on. It appeared that the changes had stuck.
However I exited the service menu by simply pressing power (as opposed to 'Mute-Mute-Power'). While I may not have done any harm, I'm thinking putting everything back to square one probably won't hurt (considering I just got the set a few days ago).

If I'm being too paranoid, please let me know.

Thanks!
There isn't any ability to change your settings to factory defaults. When you change a setting, it is changed. A good practice is to take a picture of a screen before you touch anything with your digital camera. Make sure you are getting good photos before changing anything. Then if you want to go back to a prior setting you will have a record of each setting.

Is there a way to set the TV back to out-of-the-box factory default (DNIe settings, etc) within the service menu of a 6168?

I had turned some of the DNIe settings off, then back on. It appeared that the changes had stuck.
However I exited the service menu by simply pressing power (as opposed to 'Mute-Mute-Power'). While I may not have done any harm, I'm thinking putting everything back to square one probably won't hurt (considering I just got the set a few days ago).

If I'm being too paranoid, please let me know.

Thanks!

Nope, if you want to restore them to their original settings, you'll have to edit each one. Hopefully you wrote them down before you changed them. :)

There isn't any ability to change your settings to factory defaults. When you change a setting, it is changed. A good practice is to take a picture of a screen before you touch anything with your digital camera. Make sure you are getting good photos before changing anything. Then if you want to go back to a prior setting you will have a record of each setting.

You're absolutely right. I did write down the value of every setting I changed, and then changed them back. So technically every value in my service menu IS 'default', I just want to make sure that the changes I made stuck.

What made me nervous is I've heard people say that setting changes sometimes don't 'stick', even though they reflect a new value in the menu. Since I did not exit the service menu correctly (from what I have read), I'm just double-checkinv everything. :)

You're absolutely right. I did write down the value of every setting I changed, and then changed them back. So technically every value in my service menu IS 'default', I just want to make sure that the changes I made stuck.

What made me nervous is I've heard people say that setting changes sometimes don't 'stick', even though they reflect a new value in the menu. Since I did not exit the service menu correctly (from what I have read), I'm just double-checkinv everything. :)

Some service menu items don't stick, like NR and DNI On/Off, but most do.

Nope, if you want to restore them to their original settings, you'll have to edit each one. Hopefully you wrote them down before you changed them. :)

Yep. The ONLY changes I made were the 'popular' DNIe settings (the ones about 1,000 posts in here tell you to turn off). They're all back to ON now, just wasn't sure if the way I exited the service menu might have saved/not saved those settings. Like I said, if I were to log back into the menu now they'd all be back where they were when I bought the set.

When you guys EXIT the service menu, do you do the "Mute-Mute-Power" sequence, or just power? Since I just did "power" and it seems my settings stuck ok, I'm wondering what the "Mute-Mute" does ...

I've had a 5668 since July. Recently i've noticed the audio volume goes up and down during some HD broadcasts. I first noticed it during the Superbowl and have noticed it on a few other broadcasts, mostly on ABC HD. Any ideas? Is it ABC or my system. I have a Dish 942 and Denon 2105.

Ok - this is weird.

Went into my service menu (6168). On ALL my inputs (HDMI1, TV, SVIDEO1), the setting labeled DNIe On/Off is set to OFF. By default.

I confirmed it by running the DNIe Demo ... the right-hand side is what my screen looks like when I turn the demo off. All of the other settings for DNIe (the SNI_PROC settings) are default, where a couple are default to OFF and the rest are ON.

Is it possible that my TV shipped with DNIe turned OFF??

No.

It is the source of much confusion. The service mode setting will say off, but you will notice that if you toggle it to on, nothing changes. But, if you then toggle it back to off, you will see it actually get turned off. But, if you turn off the TV or change inputs, it will be on again (even though the service mode setting will still always say off.

The way to turn it off permanently is to turn off the individual SNI_PROC settings. There is apparently some debate over whether or not to turn them all off (which is what I favor doing until I can find some evidence that any of the processing does anything good). I've been told some folks in this thread determined that some provide some kind of benefit, but heck if I can find it in 295 pages of posts.

Since I've had my 5678 (Sept '05) I have had audio out from the TV to my Denon 3805 through the analog connection. Last night during the Olympics, I hooked up an optical/digital cable from the TV to the receiver. In the TV menu, I switched it to PCM out instead of Dolby Digital. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that allows my receiver to decode the DD5.1 sound instead of the TV. As soon as I changed it, the sound was immediately more clear especially the high frequencies. :D
I'm guessing that this is because of the Burr Brown DAC's in the 3805. I would definitely recommend doing this if you haven't already. :)

Is there a way to set the TV back to out-of-the-box factory default (DNIe settings, etc) within the service menu of a 6168?

I had turned some of the DNIe settings off, then back on. It appeared that the changes had stuck.
However I exited the service menu by simply pressing power (as opposed to 'Mute-Mute-Power'). While I may not have done any harm, I'm thinking putting everything back to square one probably won't hurt (considering I just got the set a few days ago).

If I'm being too paranoid, please let me know.

Thanks!

Are you supposed to use "mute, mute power" to exit the SM? I have always used power only. My settings seem to have stuck. Is this wrong? What is the proper procedure?

Gregoryharding, the audio does fluctuate but I don't think its an HD issue or a problem with the Sammy. I find the sound varies on most of the channels from time to time. I guess this is another one of those effects where once you notice it you try and find it again until it gets annoying.

Are you supposed to use "mute, mute power" to exit the SM? I have always used power only. My settings seem to have stuck. Is this wrong? What is the proper procedure?

Not sure, to be honest ... I read it in another post on this forum and, since I had not seen it anywhere else, I started to worry I was doing something incorrectly.

BTW - big thanks to everyone who has answered my rookie questions here in the last few days. I'm as excited as anything to have this new set, and I get real giddy playing around with the settings and trying to understand what does what. It's too bad this thread isn't broken down a bit more into different categories, but it's safe to say I've read about 200 of the 295 pages of discussion!

Thanks!

Yep. The ONLY changes I made were the 'popular' DNIe settings (the ones about 1,000 posts in here tell you to turn off). They're all back to ON now, just wasn't sure if the way I exited the service menu might have saved/not saved those settings. Like I said, if I were to log back into the menu now they'd all be back where they were when I bought the set.

When you guys EXIT the service menu, do you do the "Mute-Mute-Power" sequence, or just power? Since I just did "power" and it seems my settings stuck ok, I'm wondering what the "Mute-Mute" does ...

I use a discrete code to enter/exit the service menu, this allows me to exit without powering down the tv.

Last question of the night:

My 6168 is receiving HD "straight from the wall" from RCN in Boston. No STB, no CableCard, no nothing.

Is there ANY picture-quality reason I would want to get the set top box from RCN? Does it compress the HD differently, or will my PQ stay the same with the box?

They're supposed to be coming on Wednesday to install the box ... but if I'm getting all the HD channels I want right now, am I really getting anything more for my $10/mo?

Hey guys, I just got my HL-R6168W today and already I'm having major problems. I read some posts concerning the same problem I'm having in this thread, although, I can't seem to find the posts now. (of course) I am hoping one of you has it on the tip of your tongue and can remind me where the problem exists.

Regardless of what source I use (built-in tuner, DVD through composite, PC through VGA) after a while of running, my screen "splits" down the middle, bisecting the screen into "left" and "right" halves. The right half freezes whatever part of the picture was on at the time of malfunction. The left half stays "live" except both halves almost go greyscale in color and start showing quite a bit of "noise", "snow", and "ripping". :mad:

Anyone have a clue for me? I can post photos if need be.

Anyone have a clue for me? I can post photos if need be.

From back in December - follow from here, and someone posts the solution further down the page (or at least the technician's diagnosis) ... (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6728360&&#post6728360)

Quick Questions

I Have A 6168w Connected To A Computer Via Vga. I Have An Athlon 2800+ And A Radeon 9500 With 1 Gig Of Ram.

I Can't Run 1080p Clips: Either Quicktime Movie Trailers Or Avi Files Without It Being All Choppy.

720p CLIPS have slight choppiness And 480p clips are Fine.

1. Will A Video Card With The Caliber Of A Nvidia 6600 Solve This Or Do I Need A Faster Computer? Is The 6800 Gt Worth The Extra Money?

2. anybody know of a decent inexspensive sound card that has an optical or analog digital out? my audigy 2 is not working. it doesn't have to process dts or anything.

thanks

Quick Questions

I Have A 6168w Connected To A Computer Via Vga. I Have An Athlon 2800+ And A Radeon 9500 With 1 Gig Of Ram.

I Can't Run 1080p Clips: Either Quicktime Movie Trailers Or Avi Files Without It Being All Choppy.

720p CLIPS have slight choppiness And 480p clips are Fine.

1. Will A Video Card With The Caliber Of A Nvidia 6600 Solve This Or Do I Need A Faster Computer? Is The 6800 Gt Worth The Extra Money?

2. anybody know of a decent inexspensive sound card that has an optical or analog digital out? my audigy 2 is not working. it doesn't have to process dts or anything.

thanks

I assume you have an AGP slot for the video card so I would suggest getting a video card that has 12 pipelines (the 6600 only has 8). Maybe something like a Radeon X1600 pro. I alway buy video cards from Newegg as they offer the best prices and delivery. Take a look here http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.asp?Submit=ENE&N=2010380048+1068109604+1069609639&Subcategory=48&description=&srchInDesc=&minPrice=&maxPrice=

Your computer is fast enough imo you just need a better video card. For a cheap but great sound card here is one with optical in/out and a DTS decoder http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16829118109 or this one without the decoder http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16829118104

Rnick1976, I'm just north of Boston and have Comsucks. You don't get the DVR, guide or PPV. I don't see how the PQ could change? I would cancel the appointment until you do some more investigating. You could always call them back. I'm just wondering if you're not getting all of the channels, HD or SD? See if you can get a channel list from a friend or maybe they have it online? I know I really need the DVR and the interactive guide is great. Actually you won't get any of those with a cable card, only a STB.

Dontek, that is the DLP. They replace they whole light engine instead of just the one part. The DLP projects the left side and then the right. I just had my LE replaced and it took about thirty minutes. It just slides out the back. I didn't read the link but I think that's what it is.

Madjimithing, I'm not familiar with that card but I thought its fairly high end? I thought I knew of some who edit video with that card? The computer is high end so I would think the card is? Here is a link that will test your system to see if it will play 1080i. Make sure you are using one cheap VGA cable and that the computer and Sammy are setup correctly. On the bottom of the page lists the specs and a link to test the computer.
http://www.wmvhd.com/

I use a discrete code to enter/exit the service menu, this allows me to exit without powering down the tv.

What commands do you have programed for your discrete code?

What commands do you have programed for your discrete code?

It's a service menu access discrete code that was figured out by UCSB and another person on this board. I hit "Info" followed by this service menu discrete code to enter the service menu. When done, all I need to do is hit the service menu discrete again and it exits the service menu. I think UCSB posted the Pronto code in this thread.

It's a service menu access discrete code that was figured out by UCSB and another person on this board. I hit "Info" followed by this service menu discrete code to enter the service menu. When done, all I need to do is hit the service menu discrete again and it exits the service menu. I think UCSB posted the Pronto code in this thread.

I guess I'm a little confused. Can't I just enter the commands with my Samsung remote? What commands do you enter?
How do I enter / exit the SM without turning on / off the power?

The way to turn it off permanently is to turn off the individual SNI_PROC settings. There is apparently some debate over whether or not to turn them all off (which is what I favor doing until I can find some evidence that any of the processing does anything good). I've been told some folks in this thread determined that some provide some kind of benefit, but heck if I can find it in 295 pages of posts.

Steve, a quick thread search will locate these for you. Posts 7916, 7920, 7946, 8474 and the list goes on.

I played with the settings and felt switching some off helped while others did not. I don't take the view that processing in general is bad(this is a digital processing device after all) and therefore insist on turning them all off. It's a personal preference as are the posts from others.

I may have just overlooked this in this very lengthy thread, but where is the defintion from Samsung about which of these service menu settings make up DNIe? Without them telling us, isn't much of this based on assumptions? I noted in post #8068 of the PR for the new models that DNIe is active for all inputs and there is no exclusion for VGA mentioned. Yet multiple posts in this thread suggest DNIe is not active on VGA. Is that a change for the new models?

There are dozens and dozens of settings that can be tweaked in the SM. Some are known or obvious in what they do. But from what I recollect, there are many more that are unknown at this point in time(some even inaccessible) and a good bit of this tweaking is still trial and error. Correct me if I'm wrong.

"To DNIe or not to DNIe, as if we really cared about the film directors artistic photography. I like the crisp picture DNIe provides."

This seems representative of what is in many of those posts. If that is the case, I'll stand by "turn it all off".

I thought there was some actual tests done that showed that some of the specific DNIe subfunctions actually made the image more accurate. It appears that all that is there is a few random comments from people that they like the DNIe "enhancements" or that for whatever settings they currently had, DNIe being on made things look worse to them.

No argument from me that some people prefer an altered, enhanced image. I still believe that turning off all the DNIe parameters leads to the most accurate image.

Steve, I don't have access to the Director's master so I'm unable to determine exactly what it is he/she put on film. I'd be curious to know by what you are judging these A/B comparisons before and after tweaking of SM settings.

Your comments reflect that of a videophile's view. I respect that. But I'm not a videophile. I'm simply looking for a picture that best pleases my eye. Call it that "ignorant bliss" you've seen mentioned in threads of late. I've still witnessed the improvement that can be had with calibration, but beyond that I have no interest in obsessing over seeing every minute detail or losing sleep over whether or not I'm seeing what the Director put on film. Too many variables in source devices and material can pooch that effort in a heartbeat. I'll be content with my "good enough for me" tweaked set.

I can almost guarantee you that someone out there has blindly changed these settings simply because of this thread, but is sitting there feeling uncomfortable with the results. Life is not always about 100% accuracy and perfection. Sometimes the "good enough" is the comfort zone.

I've said enough on this topic. My hat is still off to you for going down this path. It's only through the efforts of professionals like yourself that we hacks get to better understand these sets and what makes them tick. My PQ wouldn't look as good as it does if it weren't for those efforts. So a hearty "Thank You". :)

"To DNIe or not to DNIe, as if we really cared about the film directors artistic photography. I like the crisp picture DNIe provides."

This seems representative of what is in many of those posts. If that is the case, I'll stand by "turn it all off".

I thought there was some actual tests done that showed that some of the specific DNIe subfunctions actually made the image more accurate. It appears that all that is there is a few random comments from people that they like the DNIe "enhancements" or that for whatever settings they currently had, DNIe being on made things look worse to them.

No argument from me that some people prefer an altered, enhanced image. I still believe that turning off all the DNIe parameters leads to the most accurate image.

I couldnt agree with you more. My DNIe is now tunred off, since the calibration, the PQ looks so much better, but before the claibration, the PQ looked real bad with the DNIe off. I would suggest getting your TV calibrated, then turn off the DNIe. It is up to each person and their PQ.

I agree that turning off all the DNle settings can make the picture extremely soft. I ran a test with a sharpness pattern and found that the following settings gave me the best results:

SNI_PROC_CEA ON
SNI_PROC_CEP OFF
SNI_PROC_DEP OFF
SNI_PROC_DCE OFF
SNI_PROC_CCS ON
SNI_PROC_BWS ON
SNI_PROC_PCC ON
SNI_PROC_WTE ON
SNI_PROC_CTE OFF
SNI_PROC_CVD …
SNI_PROC_OUTP ON

I compared this with the 1394 settings (where major portions of DNle are disabled) with thhe same test pattern and found it to be very close. My picture is neither soft, nor edge enhanced. Under component this must be done for all resolutions (480i/p, 720p, 1080i). I actually left all DNle of for 480i material.

I also use the following settings with my Comcast 6200 and JVC D-VHS deck over component:

Movie Mode
Contrast: 60
Brightness: 54
Sharpness: 30
Color: 55
Dolby NR Off

hey guru's I've had my 5668 for about a month now and have been lurking on this site for about 4. Overall I think this sets have the best picture out there. One complaint or perhaps user error I have is the PIP options. Is there a way to do a direct swap of the PIP imputs when your watching 2 programs? Isn't that part of the joy of PIP? being able to switch back in forth between programs when there is a commercial or somthing happening on one of the other inputs. I thought I would ask the experts if there was any trick to making the PIP functions more usable. Thanks in advance...

I had a question on the DNIe subject. My TV is being calibrated this week. I was wondering if I need to make a decision to turn off DNIe before he comes? If he calibrates the set then I turn off DNIe will this mess up my other calibrated values. Or will the calibrator determine what is best(in terms of DNIe), while he is calibrating?

Thanks

I recently purchased a HL-R5078W. I was disappointed to find that it did not have discrete codes to switch inputs. I know that I can use a rotating menu from the Source key, but this does not give me full programmability for a remote control. I also found that the P. Mode, which was on my previous HLN remote, was not on the HLR remote. However, the P.Mode that I had programmed from my HLN onto my "One for All remote" does change picture modes very well on the new TV. For those of you who are not familiar with the P. Mode--it will scroll through dynamic, standard, movie and custom settings without having to go through the menu. This is an important shortcut, since picture sources vary tremendously as to picture settings. And since the P.Mode does not require a menu, it can be programmed to one key on a programmable remote for the DVD player.
My question is this--will previous remote codes from an HLP remote operate discrete codes for input on this new TV? If so, will a Harmony remote work these codes precisely. I have never attempted to buy a Harmony remote, since I have always been able to get my URC8820 "One for All Remote" to learn every code from another remote control. But I am very disappointed with the HLR remote, since the propaganda from Samsung states that these sets have discrete codes.

I had my 6168 calibrated last week. Overall, I am pleased with the result. Colors are spot on. Blacks/grey scale look better than expected. Resolution (on HD and SD) stayed around the same.

One thing that seemed to get worse was the amount of motion artifacts on all programing (HD and SD). Before, on SD programming, I would notice it from time to time on really fast moving scenes. On HD, I rarely ever noticed it at all. Now, it's fairly present at all times during fast moving scenes. During basketball games, you notice it a bit on the hardwood floor when the camera pans from one side of the court to the other. Boxing, when switching from one camera angle to the next, you see some amount of artifacts around the boxers, etc.

Is this something that might be common after calibration? Did my guy miss something or tweak something the wrong way? Am I able to make an adjustment to reduce the amount of "squares"?

Thanks.

hey guru's I've had my 5668 for about a month now and have been lurking on this site for about 4. Overall I think this sets have the best picture out there. One complaint or perhaps user error I have is the PIP options. Is there a way to do a direct swap of the PIP imputs when your watching 2 programs? Isn't that part of the joy of PIP? being able to switch back in forth between programs when there is a commercial or somthing happening on one of the other inputs. I thought I would ask the experts if there was any trick to making the PIP functions more usable. Thanks in advance...

Don't quote me, but I remember reading something in the manual about that. Something like: It can't switch the programming if one is in HD and the other isn't. You also can't bring up 2 HD channels, i think this because there is only one HD tuner. Just check out your manual.

Quick Questions

I Have A 6168w Connected To A Computer Via Vga. I Have An Athlon 2800+ And A Radeon 9500 With 1 Gig Of Ram.

I Can't Run 1080p Clips: Either Quicktime Movie Trailers Or Avi Files Without It Being All Choppy.

720p CLIPS have slight choppiness And 480p clips are Fine.

1. Will A Video Card With The Caliber Of A Nvidia 6600 Solve This Or Do I Need A Faster Computer? Is The 6800 Gt Worth The Extra Money?

2. anybody know of a decent inexspensive sound card that has an optical or analog digital out? my audigy 2 is not working. it doesn't have to process dts or anything.

thanks

I Have an issue with the sound on the Quicktime trailers, but I'm pretty sure that has to do with my settings. For you though, I would put my money on the processor. Go for dual core (Opteron 165) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16819103588 . It's basically an AMD X2 with twice the L2 Cache. I have a P4 @ 3.2Ghz, and I can barely play 1080P. I get stuttering every once in a while. If I go back to original 2.8Ghz, I can't play 1080P, and have fairly high CPU usage at 720P. I would check your CPU usage while play 1080P to find out if it is the processor. I have the 6800 Ultra BTW so I don't think that's the prob. If you're thinking about upgrading the GPU though I would recommend the 7800GS instead of the 6800GT. I think the 7800gs is a little more expensive, but it's definitely better. If that costs too much, check out the 6800gs roughly the same performance as 6800gt for less $.

I had a question on the DNIe subject. My TV is being calibrated this week. I was wondering if I need to make a decision to turn off DNIe before he comes? If he calibrates the set then I turn off DNIe will this mess up my other calibrated values. Or will the calibrator determine what is best(in terms of DNIe), while he is calibrating?

Thanks

If you get a goood calibrator, then he will decide what is best for your TV, Inputs and PQ either to turn the DNIe off or on. Mine is off and WOW does the PQ look great. With the DNIe on it looks too sharp and bright. My calibrator turned my DNIe off because of the type of system I have and what inputs I was using.

This is up to you, but either way he needs to claibrate the unit with the settings after you or he decides to leave it on or off. David said that he does them off mainly. It is better for PQ during the calibration.

As long as you dont mess with your service menu after the calibration, all will be the same. I wont ever go into my service menu again, because I have no need to. My PQ is the very best, looks better than a high end Plasma, or Sony LCD.

I had my 6168 calibrated last week. Overall, I am pleased with the result. Colors are spot on. Blacks/grey scale look better than expected. Resolution (on HD and SD) stayed around the same.

One thing that seemed to get worse was the amount of motion artifacts on all programing (HD and SD). Before, on SD programming, I would notice it from time to time on really fast moving scenes. On HD, I rarely ever noticed it at all. Now, it's fairly present at all times during fast moving scenes. During basketball games, you notice it a bit on the hardwood floor when the camera pans from one side of the court to the other. Boxing, when switching from one camera angle to the next, you see some amount of artifacts around the boxers, etc.

Is this something that might be common after calibration? Did my guy miss something or tweak something the wrong way? Am I able to make an adjustment to reduce the amount of "squares"?

Thanks.

I dont have this problem at all after my calibration. Before the calibration, I had the squares, but now I dont. However on the component inputs I have it just a little on fast moving objects, but I dont use component inputs on my TV. I only use digital. On HD channels, I see no artifacts at all. WOW my PQ is the very best that I have ever seen after the calibration. Maybe you should have David calibrate your TV.
I dont know if you can adjust the "squares", maybe in the setting for Warm 1, Warm 2, Standard, etc. Not sure. Can anyone help byrnebv out?

I recently purchased a HL-R5078W. I was disappointed to find that it did not have discrete codes to switch inputs. .

Actually it does. I have discrete codes for PC, HDMI 1-3, COMP 1-2 and SVID3 programmed into my MX-850. Don't remember exactly where I got them but try

http://www.remotecentral.com/

Jim

I also found that the P. Mode, which was on my previous HLN remote, was not on the HLR remote.

Is there a picture of the 5078 remote anywhere? It's not the standard gray/silvery Samsung remote that comes with the other models is it? The p-size button is inside a hidden compartment. The bottom of the remote slides open and there are another 12 buttons.

SV

I Have an issue with the sound on the Quicktime trailers, but I'm pretty sure that has to do with my settings. For you though, I would put my money on the processor. Go for dual core (Opteron 165) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16819103588 . It's basically an AMD X2 with twice the L2 Cache. I have a P4 @ 3.2Ghz, and I can barely play 1080P. I get stuttering every once in a while. If I go back to original 2.8Ghz, I can't play 1080P, and have fairly high CPU usage at 720P. I would check your CPU usage while play 1080P to find out if it is the processor. I have the 6800 Ultra BTW so I don't think that's the prob. If you're thinking about upgrading the GPU though I would recommend the 7800GS instead of the 6800GT. I think the 7800gs is a little more expensive, but it's definitely better. If that costs too much, check out the 6800gs roughly the same performance as 6800gt for less $.


How well do you think an Athlon 64x2 4800+ processor would perform as regards to 1080p?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16819103544

Apparently the price went up since the last time I checked. I will probably build a new PC later this year and this is what I'm probably going with.

I Have an issue with the sound on the Quicktime trailers, but I'm pretty sure that has to do with my settings. For you though, I would put my money on the processor. Go for dual core (Opteron 165) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16819103588 . It's basically an AMD X2 with twice the L2 Cache. I have a P4 @ 3.2Ghz, and I can barely play 1080P. I get stuttering every once in a while. If I go back to original 2.8Ghz, I can't play 1080P, and have fairly high CPU usage at 720P. I would check your CPU usage while play 1080P to find out if it is the processor. I have the 6800 Ultra BTW so I don't think that's the prob. If you're thinking about upgrading the GPU though I would recommend the 7800GS instead of the 6800GT. I think the 7800gs is a little more expensive, but it's definitely better. If that costs too much, check out the 6800gs roughly the same performance as 6800gt for less $.

Just as an FYI - my 2.0 Ghz Pentium M (laptop) can play 1080p effortlessly with no freezes. I have a 128 MB ATI graphics card (Mobility Fire GL T2).
I think your problems could be with memory size and/or graphics card.

I think I just might get this DLP. I can get the Dtrovision DVI to VGA converter with HDCP support in order to show Blu-Ray in full 1080p, for now I don't need HDMI/DVI support. But, I was reading in previous posts that there is a problem when running 1920x1080@60hz from a pc where the image is smaller than the screen with borders? Has there been a fix?

There's no guarantee that the Dtrovision converter will work with a Blu-Ray player just because it has HDCP. The player will have to put out RGB for PC in order for the VGA input on the TV to work. I tried a Dtrovision with my Marantz DV9600 player that puts out 1080p and I couldn't get it to work.

I guess I'm a little confused. Can't I just enter the commands with my Samsung remote? What commands do you enter?
How do I enter / exit the SM without turning on / off the power?

No, to use the discrete code I am referring to requires a programmable remote.

Madjimithing, I'm not familiar with that card but I thought its fairly high end? I thought I knew of some who edit video with that card? The computer is high end so I would think the card is? Here is a link that will test your system to see if it will play 1080i. Make sure you are using one cheap VGA cable and that the computer and Sammy are setup correctly. On the bottom of the page lists the specs and a link to test the computer.
http://www.wmvhd.com/

those are the 1080 clips that are choppy i am referring to.

i want to know if a geforce 6600 would allow me to watch clips.

i know a 7800 would be better and a new processor would be better.

i don't want to spend that much .

does anyone have a 6600 or a 6800 with a similar setup that can play 1080p wmvhd clips or quicktime trailers?

No, to use the discrete code I am referring to requires a programmable remote.

I'm new to this, so bear with me if I sound like a moron.
When you enter the discrete code, it doesn't just follow steps that could be entered with the Samsung remote? I guess I don't know what a discrete code is!!
Is there a way to enter and/or exit the SM without turning off the power?
Do you need to use mute-mute-power to exit the SM?
I just use power, and my settings seem to have stuck.
Did you install Velux or similar? Do you have a 78 or 68 series. I have a 5078W.

Thanks!!

Madjimithing, I have the 6600. That was the first component I installed where I thought I might have made a mistake. I edit video and now looking to do HD/V. My system can handle it and I think the 6600 will just get by for editing. I know someone said there is a new driver for the 6600 so you might want to check that out, it might have fixed any issues people might have. My issues were editing related. In other words that card might be the minimum card for editing? I have played HD footage with it and I did watch the T2 WMVHD DVD. That was unbelievable. It looks so clear that parts of it look fake.

You just need to check the specs of the 6600 and maybe one below and one above. Keep in mind your system is only as good as the slowest component. Getting the best card might not help things if other components are at the minimum. The cards have to show 1920x1080@60 and it should work.

I just want to figure this out once and for all, and I'll be allllll set:

I know that there's a Game Mode on my 6168. I know that I can input up to 480p when I plug in my Xbox and set the port to Game Mode. I know that the REASON Game Mode exists is that it turns off a lot of the video processing to cut down the lag. Ok, got that.

Now - I know that there's a VGA port that, according to what I have read, bypasses all the extra video processing. If I were to take my Xbox, put in a game that is 720p, hook it up to a VGA adapter, and plug into the VGA port without Game Mode turned on ... I would expect that I would get lag-free image running at 720. Correct?

Same scenario with an Xbox 360: plug into VGA converter, insert game that goes to 1080, plug into VGA port with no Game Mode ... you get lag-free gaming at 1080.

I am correct in assuming/deducing this? The more I read about/experience these game lag issues, the more it makes me think that maybe I should wait for the new line of the DLPs w/ Game Mode at 1080 ... but if spending $100 on a VGA adapter literally solves the problem of restricted/laggy gaming for the forseeable future, that's good enough for me.

Experts, please weigh in!

These are my settings from my Calibration, before and after David worked on my TV.
Please see the attached files.

What a big difference in PQ and settings. These TV's that leave the Samsung floor, are really not claibrated at all, not even close as you can see by the numbers.

Am I correct in assuming that Samsung Calibration 1.pdf is after calibration, and the other is before?

Am I correct in assuming that Samsung Calibration 1.pdf is after calibration, and the other is before?

No, the doc was two pages long and I had to split them up to send them. I got them this way on the PDF file.

One page 1 (the first PDF) you can see the Pre-calibration and Post-calibration side by side.
Open the PDF file, save it and it will appear on your desktop to view.
It would not let me convert this over to a Word doc.

I just want to figure this out once and for all, and I'll be allllll set:

I know that there's a Game Mode on my 6168. I know that I can input up to 480p when I plug in my Xbox and set the port to Game Mode. I know that the REASON Game Mode exists is that it turns off a lot of the video processing to cut down the lag. Ok, got that.

Now - I know that there's a VGA port that, according to what I have read, bypasses all the extra video processing. If I were to take my Xbox, put in a game that is 720p, hook it up to a VGA adapter, and plug into the VGA port without Game Mode turned on ... I would expect that I would get lag-free image running at 720. Correct?

Same scenario with an Xbox 360: plug into VGA converter, insert game that goes to 1080, plug into VGA port with no Game Mode ... you get lag-free gaming at 1080.

I am correct in assuming/deducing this? The more I read about/experience these game lag issues, the more it makes me think that maybe I should wait for the new line of the DLPs w/ Game Mode at 1080 ... but if spending $100 on a VGA adapter literally solves the problem of restricted/laggy gaming for the forseeable future, that's good enough for me.

Experts, please weigh in!

Game mode only comes into play when your input is 480i (see page 108 of your manual). Your logic is correct for the rest - how it works out in fact is another question. Others will have to answer.

Hmmm ... I'm wondering if something like this would solve the problem:
http://www.vdigi.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=36&Itemid=68

These are my settings from my Calibration, before and after David worked on my TV.
Please see the attached files.

What a big difference in PQ and settings. These TV's that leave the Samsung floor, are really not claibrated at all, not even close as you can see by the numbers.

Any chance you can post your service menu settings? Would be interesting to see how a properly calibrated set differs from the original factory settings.

Any chance you can post your service menu settings? Would be interesting to see how a properly calibrated set differs from the original factory settings.

David changed so many factory settings, that I dont even know what the old factory settings were. I am out of the state now, but when I return, I can take a pic of the new calibration settings. Is this what you want?

:

David changed so many factory settings, that I dont even know what the old factory settings were. I am out of the state now, but when I return, I can take a pic of the new calibration settings. Is this what you want?


I think that'd be great, personally.

How well do you think an Athlon 64x2 4800+ processor would perform as regards to 1080p?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16819103544

Apparently the price went up since the last time I checked. I will probably build a new PC later this year and this is what I'm probably going with.

That's definitely ok for 1080P. I think anything better than a P4 3.2 Ghz/Pentium M 1.73Ghz/Athlon 64 3500+, you should be in good shape. Obviously, anything higher than these are going to perform better/keep you comfortable longer.

Just as an FYI - my 2.0 Ghz Pentium M (laptop) can play 1080p effortlessly with no freezes. I have a 128 MB ATI graphics card (Mobility Fire GL T2).
I think your problems could be with memory size and/or graphics card.

P4 3.2 is closer to a Pentium M 1.8Ghz w/533fsb when you're talking about gaming or applications, however since PM's are geared towards mobility, they are usually not as competetive in other tests. The requirements below are taken from www.wmvhd.com. It shows requirements to play a 1080P movie in WMV format.

Microsoft Windows XP, Windows Media Player 9 Series, 3.0 GHz Processor, 512 MB of RAM, 128 MB Video Card, 1920x1080 Screen Resolution, DVD-ROM drive, 16-bit Sound Card, Speakers

David changed so many factory settings, that I dont even know what the old factory settings were. I am out of the state now, but when I return, I can take a pic of the new calibration settings. Is this what you want?
yes that would be awesome

David changed so many factory settings, that I dont even know what the old factory settings were. I am out of the state now, but when I return, I can take a pic of the new calibration settings. Is this what you want?
Yes, thats what we have been waiting for. To see how your settings differ from ours. The PDF files above really dont tell us much. Please post the settings as soon as you can. Thanks.

I'm new to this, so bear with me if I sound like a moron.
When you enter the discrete code, it doesn't just follow steps that could be entered with the Samsung remote? I guess I don't know what a discrete code is!!
Is there a way to enter and/or exit the SM without turning off the power?
Do you need to use mute-mute-power to exit the SM?
I just use power, and my settings seem to have stuck.
Did you install Velux or similar? Do you have a 78 or 68 series. I have a 5078W.

Thanks!!

A discrete code is a single remote code where have a single button "follow steps that could be entered with the Samsung remote" would be more like a macro. The only way to exit the service menu without turning off the power is to get a programmable remote and program the service menu discrete code. You do not need to use mute-mute-power to exit the service menu, just turning off the tv works fine. I have a 6168, no velux, no calibration.

I think I just might get this DLP. I can get the Dtrovision DVI to VGA converter with HDCP support in order to show Blu-Ray in full 1080p, for now I don't need HDMI/DVI support. But, I was reading in previous posts that there is a problem when running 1920x1080@60hz from a pc where the image is smaller than the screen with borders? Has there been a fix?

There are two areas you need to adjust within the menus that will get PC input over VGA working almost perfect. First I zoomed down the screen so that I had black bars on all sides from the standard picture adjustment menu. Then I started with my Windows desktop with an explorer window maximized so as to easily see where the true edges of the desktop exist and then adjusted the picture from the picture adjustment setting specifically for the PC input so that all edges were within the black borders. I then went back to the standard picture adjustment and zoomed the clean desktop back out to the physical edges of the screen.

I am not home right now so I can not tell you exactly where in the menus these options are. If this doesn't make any sense let me know and I will go back in and map it out for you. :cool:

Yes, thats what we have been waiting for. To see how your settings differ from ours. The PDF files above really dont tell us much. Please post the settings as soon as you can. Thanks.

TO ALL:

To the people who have responded to me, I will take a pic of the Service menu when I get back to CA. It will be awhile becuase this is my travel season before the summer kicks in. Then I will be headed to Jamaica and Hawaii for the entire summer. I need to relax and unwind after a busy 2005-2006.

David changed so many factory settings, that I dont even know what the old factory settings were. I am out of the state now, but when I return, I can take a pic of the new calibration settings. Is this what you want?
That would be great. Easy to compare to the service manual.

Actually it does. I have discrete codes for PC, HDMI 1-3, COMP 1-2 and SVID3 programmed into my MX-850. Don't remember exactly where I got them but try

http://www.remotecentral.com/

Jim

Thanks for the website. I probably need to do some homework. The only programmable remote that I am familiar with is a "One for All" wherer you beam the codes from another remote. I would like to be able to enter codes with a keypad from the numbers. Are than any remotes less than $200 that have this capability--or can I get a Harmony Remote and expect to get everything from Logitech? :rolleyes:

Is there a picture of the 5078 remote anywhere? It's not the standard gray/silvery Samsung remote that comes with the other models is it? The p-size button is inside a hidden compartment. The bottom of the remote slides open and there are another 12 buttons.

SV

The remote is shown in the Owner's Manual for the 78 series. This new remote does have a sliding door--but it does not have the p.mode--instead it has a bunch of PIP command buttons. :o

A couple things... First, here is my system:

HL-R5688W Samsung DLP
Cox Communications HD DVR Set top Connected VIA HDMI and Component
H/K AVR 335 Receiver connected through component
H/K DVD 31 Connected through component
XBOX 360 connected through receiver through component
H/K 7.1 surround sound

First issue: HDMI seems to provide a lower quality picture than the components.

Second Issue: When I plug my Powerbook G4 into the DVi, the picture on the screen is very small (compared to the screen itself) and centered.

Third Issue: Should I merely turn off DNIe and try to get the picture as best as possible or should I just fork over the money and have a professional come out?

Fourth Issue: Has anyone had any luck with any higher end univeral remote? I have last year's version of the Harmony and I hate it. When you switch from DVD player to, let's say, cable, half of the stuff shuts off and then it's a mess getting everything to work again - answering questions and whatnot.

I am looking at the Philips rC9800I - Costco has it for 350 online and other places, including ebay, it's listed much higher than that. 350 would be the absolute most I would pay for a remote.

Thanks so much in advance. The knowledge base here is amazing.

BP

Fourth Issue: Has anyone had any luck with any higher end univeral remote? I have last year's version of the Harmony and I hate it. When you switch from DVD player to, let's say, cable, half of the stuff shuts off and then it's a mess getting everything to work again - answering questions and whatnot.

I am looking at the Philips rC9800I - Costco has it for 350 online and other places, including ebay, it's listed much higher than that. 350 would be the absolute most I would pay for a remote.


I absolutely love my MX-850 Aeros

http://www.universalremote.com/products/index.php?item=mx850

Any button can have a macro. Discretes are often available via http://www.remotecentral.com . You can directly import Pronto discrete codes using the PC software. *You* have complete control over what function each key performs. You can define your own macros which do exactly what you want them to do.

MSRP is a bit pricey, but if you don't mind getting it from a "non-authorized" dealer, it can be had for much less. If you want to check on ebay, dougtheaterman has a pretty good deal.

If you want to get it from an authorized dealer, I would recommend:

http://www.surfremotecontrol.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MX-850

or

http://www.bluedo.com/bluedocgi/product.cgi?model=MX-850

Those are both very good companies to deal with.

John

I am looking at the Philips rC9800I - Costco has it for 350 online and other places, including ebay, it's listed much higher than that. 350 would be the absolute most I would pay for a remote.


You might want to read this:

http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/mboard/rc-rc9800i/thread.cgi?53


John

A couple things... First, here is my system:

HL-R5688W Samsung DLP
Cox Communications HD DVR Set top Connected VIA HDMI and Component
H/K AVR 335 Receiver connected through component
H/K DVD 31 Connected through component
XBOX 360 connected through receiver through component
H/K 7.1 surround sound

First issue: HDMI seems to provide a lower quality picture than the components.

Second Issue: When I plug my Powerbook G4 into the DVi, the picture on the screen is very small (compared to the screen itself) and centered.

Third Issue: Should I merely turn off DNIe and try to get the picture as best as possible or should I just fork over the money and have a professional come out?

Fourth Issue: Has anyone had any luck with any higher end univeral remote? I have last year's version of the Harmony and I hate it. When you switch from DVD player to, let's say, cable, half of the stuff shuts off and then it's a mess getting everything to work again - answering questions and whatnot.

I am looking at the Philips rC9800I - Costco has it for 350 online and other places, including ebay, it's listed much higher than that. 350 would be the absolute most I would pay for a remote.

Thanks so much in advance. The knowledge base here is amazing.

BP
If you are a technical person and want to have the most control over your remote, consider the Philips TSU3000 (or newer TSU3500) or TSU7000 (or newer TSU7500). These will give you total control over your system, but will require that you learn how to set them up on your PC. Check remote reviews at www.remotecentral.com.

Folks, I think you need to think out of the box. I had a DLP with only one DVI input. I quickly found that I needed a DVI input for my upconvert DVD player and one for my satellite receiver. Early on, I purchased a DVI switch. Unfortunatelyl this first switch was manual and it turned out not to be HDCP compatible. I was frustrated by having to manually switch the DVI settings and then set my receiver to take a different DOSLINK (Optical sound connection). On AVSForum, I learned about the Zektor 5.1 switch. I bit the bullet and paid $375 for the switch. Boy was this worth it! It had 5 DVI inputs and 5 DOLINK inputs and 5 Coaxial digital sound inputs. It had a built in programmable remote receiver that was default coded to an obscure DVD player that could be coded into cheap remote controls. What was beautiful about the switch was that by discrete commands, I could change Digital picture and Digital sound with one command. Unfortunately, this DVI switch had HDCP problems when going from HDMI devices to a HDMI monitor. However, Zektor is working on a version that will work with HDMI connections. I am anxiously waiting for this product to come out. I would much rather pay $400 for this switch than to pay $400 for a remote control that would still leave me with limited input connection problems to my amplifier and to my monitor.
If you will notice, most high-end TVs have only 2 HDMI inputs and if you want to connect the TV, a DVD player and a satellite box to the receiver, you have to have 3 TOSLINK inputs. If you have the new Zector Switch, you only need one HDMI input on the monitor and 1 DOSLINK input on the receiver. The switch will take 5 inputs of digital audio and digital video. I sold my Zektor DVI Switch to my Son-In-Law when I sold him my 720p DLP.

A couple things... First, here is my system:

HL-R5688W Samsung DLP
Cox Communications HD DVR Set top Connected VIA HDMI and Component
H/K AVR 335 Receiver connected through component
H/K DVD 31 Connected through component
XBOX 360 connected through receiver through component
H/K 7.1 surround sound

First issue: HDMI seems to provide a lower quality picture than the components.

Thanks so much in advance. The knowledge base here is amazing.

BP

I presume that if you have read (or scanned) the posts here you are aware of the fact that if you switch between component and HDMI that HDMI will have a dark picture. After switching to HDMI from component you need to go Menu, Picture, Mode and switch to another of the ones listed (dyanmic, standard, movie, custom) and back to what you want. This fixes the problem until the next time you switch between component and HDMI.

Folks, I think you need to think out of the box. I had a DLP with only one DVI input. I quickly found that I needed a DVI input for my upconvert DVD player and one for my satellite receiver. Early on, I purchased a DVI switch. Unfortunatelyl this first switch was manual and it turned out not to be HDCP compatible. I was frustrated by having to manually switch the DVI settings and then set my receiver to take a different DOSLINK (Optical sound connection). On AVSForum, I learned about the Zektor 5.1 switch. I bit the bullet and paid $375 for the switch. Boy was this worth it! It had 5 DVI inputs and 5 DOLINK inputs and 5 Coaxial digital sound inputs. It had a built in programmable remote receiver that was default coded to an obscure DVD player that could be coded into cheap remote controls. What was beautiful about the switch was that by discrete commands, I could change Digital picture and Digital sound with one command. Unfortunately, this DVI switch had HDCP problems when going from HDMI devices to a HDMI monitor. However, Zektor is working on a version that will work with HDMI connections. I am anxiously waiting for this product to come out. I would much rather pay $400 for this switch than to pay $400 for a remote control that would still leave me with limited input connection problems to my amplifier and to my monitor.
If you will notice, most high-end TVs have only 2 HDMI inputs and if you want to connect the TV, a DVD player and a satellite box to the receiver, you have to have 3 TOSLINK inputs. If you have the new Zector Switch, you only need one HDMI input on the monitor and 1 DOSLINK input on the receiver. The switch will take 5 inputs of digital audio and digital video. I sold my Zektor DVI Switch to my Son-In-Law when I sold him my 720p DLP.


Al, you're right on! I have two Zektor HDS4's that map 4 component (I prefer component because I've invested so much in it :) ) inputs to one component output (with Toslink and Spdif). You can piggy back one to the other to get 7 total inputs to one output which I have done. I only need discrete to select between COMP1 and PC for my HTPC. They've since improved the look of their switches and added other models. They are top quality switches and work flawlessly.

I also love my MX-850. one of the things was able to do with this remote was to control two MOT 6412 HD DVRs. One I use upstairs with IR where I have my TV since I like the clock on the DVR :D and one I've set up downstairs where I use the RF capability of the MX850 to control it. Both DVRs are connected to the same input using the Zektor switches. From my living room I can control and watch each DVR independantly.

A couple things... First, here is my system:

HL-R5688W Samsung DLP
Cox Communications HD DVR Set top Connected VIA HDMI and Component
H/K AVR 335 Receiver connected through component
H/K DVD 31 Connected through component
XBOX 360 connected through receiver through component
H/K 7.1 surround sound

First issue: HDMI seems to provide a lower quality picture than the components.

Second Issue: When I plug my Powerbook G4 into the DVi, the picture on the screen is very small (compared to the screen itself) and centered.

Third Issue: Should I merely turn off DNIe and try to get the picture as best as possible or should I just fork over the money and have a professional come out?

Fourth Issue: Has anyone had any luck with any higher end univeral remote? I have last year's version of the Harmony and I hate it. When you switch from DVD player to, let's say, cable, half of the stuff shuts off and then it's a mess getting everything to work again - answering questions and whatnot.

I am looking at the Philips rC9800I - Costco has it for 350 online and other places, including ebay, it's listed much higher than that. 350 would be the absolute most I would pay for a remote.

Thanks so much in advance. The knowledge base here is amazing.

BP

My remote is the Marantz RC2000 MKII. I've used it for several years and I absolutely love it. I think it is discontinued but you can buy a used one on eBay for about $70. It is flexible and powerful, but you do need to program it.

Thanks for the info on the remote. I ordered the one I mentioned from Costco. If I don't like it, I'll just take it back, but I'll be sure to list what I think on here...

Anyone have a POV on the other issues I've brought up?

BP

If you are a technical person and want to have the most control over your remote, consider the Philips TSU3000 (or newer TSU3500) or TSU7000 (or newer TSU7500). These will give you total control over your system, but will require that you learn how to set them up on your PC. Check remote reviews at www.remotecentral.com.

That remote is nice - it's newer than the one I mentioned? (Can't remember the model number)

I like buying what I can from Costco as the return policy is unbeatable.

Thanks for the info. If the one I ordered from Costco doesn't work out, I will look into those. I really life the idea though of streaming audio - maybe I can returd my video Ipod... or start going to the gym again...

:(

BP

I presume that if you have read (or scanned) the posts here you are aware of the fact that if you switch between component and HDMI that HDMI will have a dark picture. After switching to HDMI from component you need to go Menu, Picture, Mode and switch to another of the ones listed (dyanmic, standard, movie, custom) and back to what you want. This fixes the problem until the next time you switch between component and HDMI.

No, I hadn't seen that. Thanks for pointing it out.

That may be the difference, but the cable guy that was here the other day mentioned that Cox Com. in Phoenix has some issues with HDMI and the set top boxes. I can't ever tell if they actually know what they are talking about though so I try to take everything with a grain of salt.

I've decided to disconnect the component, I am only using the HDMI for video so I guess it's best to leave everything as digital as possible.

TO ALL:

To the people who have responded to me, I will take a pic of the Service menu when I get back to CA. It will be awhile becuase this is my travel season before the summer kicks in. Then I will be headed to Jamaica and Hawaii for the entire summer. I need to relax and unwind after a busy 2005-2006.

Did this guy ever post his service menu?

I'd really like to get a look at it. Earlier tonight I turned off DNLe. I don't know how I feel about it yet. I've tried changing the contrast, brightness etc. but I clearly don't know what I am doing. Blacks aren't exactly blacks, more grey now - which I know is grey scale issues in the service menu... And whites aren't exactly white - mostly visible on white text on black/color...

I've just spent so much money in the last few weeks that having a pro come out is problematic.

I've seen what the picture on the hl-r5688w can look like and am a little frustrated every time I see HDTV because I know it could be so much better.

Any advice on meantime calibration? I'll be able to pay the 375 quoted to me within a couple months, but is there anything I can do until then? It seems like changing a few settings in the service menu as far as adjusting grey scale is relatively simple - but I dare not mess with it without consulting with someone that knows what they are doing.

I just spent the last few hours zip tying and hiding wires, cleaning the room, vaccuming, everything is perfect except for the picture ! :(

Any help would be awesome.

BP

On a more positive note, the digital artifact that I was seeing is much less evident on HD with DNIe off... God I can't wait for the picture to be all it can be...

Also, after turning off DNIe, the channel bars on the set top are much more blurry. Anyone know if that will change once calibrated correctly?

On a side note, any suggestions forr hooking up an Xbox 360? Anyone have the DVI hook up? Is it better? Worse? The same?

BP

Are those of you seeing softness with DNIe turned off using component or HDMI inputs?

The Ring focus will sharpen things. I have my 360 connected to my VGA input. No lag using that input and an excellent picture.

I agree that turning off all the DNle settings can make the picture extremely soft. I ran a test with a sharpness pattern and found that the following settings gave me the best results:

SNI_PROC_BWS ON

I definitely agree with you that turning DNIe off makes the picture soft and the text blurry, however, for the one above setting, I have found that turning this to "off" provides much better black level detail. You may want to freeze a dark scene and then run the comparison. You may be surprised to see that when you turn it to "Off", you are able to see some detail that you can't see when the setting is "On".

Did this guy ever post his service menu?

I'd really like to get a look at it. Earlier tonight I turned off DNLe. I don't know how I feel about it yet. I've tried changing the contrast, brightness etc. but I clearly don't know what I am doing. Blacks aren't exactly blacks, more grey now - which I know is grey scale issues in the service menu... And whites aren't exactly white - mostly visible on white text on black/color...

I've just spent so much money in the last few weeks that having a pro come out is problematic.

I've seen what the picture on the hl-r5688w can look like and am a little frustrated every time I see HDTV because I know it could be so much better.

Any advice on meantime calibration? I'll be able to pay the 375 quoted to me within a couple months, but is there anything I can do until then? It seems like changing a few settings in the service menu as far as adjusting grey scale is relatively simple - but I dare not mess with it without consulting with someone that knows what they are doing.

I just spent the last few hours zip tying and hiding wires, cleaning the room, vaccuming, everything is perfect except for the picture ! :(

Any help would be awesome.

BP

I have the 5688 with DNle on. What I can suggest to get a very nice picture without the professional calibration is to set all the things you've changed back to the factory setting you had to begin with. Then set the TV to the Movie mode, set the contrast down to between 60 and 65, and check it out. I use component connections for the TV from a Mot cable box. HDMI from DVD. The picture is beautiful at those settings and very few, if any, artifacts.

I just had something interesting happen on my 6168:

1. Hooked up Xbox via componant cables: not only was the picture stunning, but the lag was hardly noticable. This is with Game Mode turned OFF.
2. Switched over to TV Input for a few minutes
3. Went BACK to Componant ... and the color was REALLY washed out. It was as if the "blues" didn't exist anymore, everything was an odd shade of green. Rebooting the Xbox did nothing. I checked the cables in the back of the Xbox and the TV ... nothing out of the ordinary.

Does something happen to the colors when you switch modes or something? Anyone ever come across this?

The Ring focus will sharpen things. I have my 360 connected to my VGA input. No lag using that input and an excellent picture.
I'm not sure that the ring focus is the issue. The picture from my HTPC via VGA is stellar, whereas the picture via HDMI or component with DNIe turned off is way too soft. So soft that I had to turn DNIe back on. I loved the better color quality with the calibration, but just couldn't live with the fuzziness. I think that if the ring focus was out of whack, I'd be seeing problems with the VGA picture, too.

Maybe my brain's ring focus is out of whack. :D

A discrete code is a single remote code where have a single button "follow steps that could be entered with the Samsung remote" would be more like a macro. The only way to exit the service menu without turning off the power is to get a programmable remote and program the service menu discrete code. You do not need to use mute-mute-power to exit the service menu, just turning off the tv works fine. I have a 6168, no velux, no calibration.

Do you know what the steps are in the discrete code that you use?
I would like to enter/exit the SM without using a lamp cycle.

Did this guy ever post his service menu?

I'd really like to get a look at it. Earlier tonight I turned off DNLe. I don't know how I feel about it yet. I've tried changing the contrast, brightness etc. but I clearly don't know what I am doing. Blacks aren't exactly blacks, more grey now - which I know is grey scale issues in the service menu... And whites aren't exactly white - mostly visible on white text on black/color...

I've just spent so much money in the last few weeks that having a pro come out is problematic.

I've seen what the picture on the hl-r5688w can look like and am a little frustrated every time I see HDTV because I know it could be so much better.

Any advice on meantime calibration? I'll be able to pay the 375 quoted to me within a couple months, but is there anything I can do until then? It seems like changing a few settings in the service menu as far as adjusting grey scale is relatively simple - but I dare not mess with it without consulting with someone that knows what they are doing.

I just spent the last few hours zip tying and hiding wires, cleaning the room, vaccuming, everything is perfect except for the picture ! :(

Any help would be awesome.

BP

I posted my service menu way back in August or September of 2005. I remember taking Pics of it, and posted it here.

Anyway, my TV was calibrated and Velux was installed for $600.00 flat rate for 5.5 hours of work. I tell you something, since the cabinet inside is grey, the picture and PQ will not be black at all until you have the Velux installed. No matter how you try to adjust the pic to get a better PQ, it wont look good. As long as the light is reflecting back off the grey case, it wont be black. After mine was claibrated and the Velux was installed, BOY what a huge difference. I cant beleive that a TV can look like this. Samsung should learn this and they will sell millions of these sets.

I read all morning in the 2006 forum, the new Samsung DLP, LED models, wow, what a difference too. You know anything new, there will be many kinks before they fix it. So I wouldnt buy a 2006 model yet.
Why would you if you get your current TV claibrated and install the Velux. I bet the PQ will be the same.

I am happy with my set, so I have no plans on wasting money to change for the 2006 models. Strange how things change, first all the TV's were black, then they changed to silver and now they are going back to black again. I like to two-tone look anyway.

I can't find your pics anywhere - is there any way you could repost them or possibly e-mail them to me at BMPowers"at"GMail.com

I'd really appreciate that.

BP

I'm really torn right now -
Sounds like they worked out the gaming delay for the 2006 color-wheel versions of the DLPs, and the one I want comes out in April (the next gen of the current 6168). I'm still within my 30-day window, and pricewise it would essentially be a wash for me to upgrade to the latest and greatest ... except that I would have to go without a big honkin' TV for a few months!!

Then, there's always the chance that there's something funky about these new ones as well ... oh dear. I just want lag-free gaming and a nice picture, and then I'd be happy. :)

I'm really torn right now -
Sounds like they worked out the gaming delay for the 2006 color-wheel versions of the DLPs, and the one I want comes out in April (the next gen of the current 6168). I'm still within my 30-day window, and pricewise it would essentially be a wash for me to upgrade to the latest and greatest ... except that I would have to go without a big honkin' TV for a few months!!

Then, there's always the chance that there's something funky about these new ones as well ... oh dear. I just want lag-free gaming and a nice picture, and then I'd be happy. :)

As folks have mentioned, using the VGA connection is likely to give you lag free gaming and stunning PQ. I only watch movies on the VGA from my laptop and it is fantastic. You could give this a try before returning the TV.

As folks have mentioned, using the VGA connection is likely to give you lag free gaming and stunning PQ. I only watch movies on the VGA from my laptop and it is fantastic. You could give this a try before returning the TV.

Has anyone been able to recommend an Xbox (non-360)-to-VGA connection that really works? I hear some pretty wonky results, about how some of these connectors are not recognized by our TVS ...

The latest issue of Home Theater has another article by Gary Merson, concerning the dropping half the information (bobbing) for 1080i signals on many TVs. The good news is that the Samsung 1080P DLPs pass the test (the only HL-Rxx68 model tested was an HL-R5668). All the Samsung 720P DLPs failed the test. More than 48% of the 54 TVs tested failed the test.

Has anyone been able to recommend an Xbox (non-360)-to-VGA connection that really works? I hear some pretty wonky results, about how some of these connectors are not recognized by our TVS ...

I’m using the VD-Z3, without any problems on an HL-R6168.
http://www.vdigi.com/index.php?option=content&task=blogcategory&id=67&Itemid=28

I’m using the VD-Z3, without any problems on an HL-R6168.
http://www.vdigi.com/index.php?option=content&task=blogcategory&id=67&Itemid=28

So this would be the first confirmation that I read that you can get lag-free Xbox gaming on the 6168?? And the picture's not wonky?

I might just give this a shot! Thanks!

So this would be the first confirmation that I read that you can get lag-free Xbox gaming on the 6168?? And the picture's not wonky?

I might just give this a shot! Thanks!

I think I would have preferred the x2vga+ but it hasn’t been available for the past couple months. The VD-Z3 requires a power adapter, where the x2vga+ gets its power from the xbox.
http://www.x2vga.com/

Vandu, how did the 78s do? How can a 720 pass a 1080 test?

There is a lot of talk right now on the HD/BR-DVDs since they are on their way. It seems no current computer and those that are due out soon will have the Intel HDCP chip. The newest, highend video cards claim to be HDCP ready and are not. Only this week are they rewording the claim. It seems a HD/BR st player "should" work via HDMI, but I think there are people like me here who want to edit and play HD on their HTPC/work PC. In other words, we can play WMVHD but not true HD from a DVD.

Vandu, how did the 78s do? How can a 720 pass a 1080 test?

The only Samsung DLPs listed were 4 HL-Rxx67s, which all failed and the HL-R5668, which passed.

There is a lot of talk right now on the HD/BR-DVDs since they are on their way. It seems no current computer and those that are due out soon will have the Intel HDCP chip. The newest, highend video cards claim to be HDCP ready and are not. Only this week are they rewording the claim. It seems a HD/BR st player "should" work via HDMI, but I think there are people like me here who want to edit and play HD on their HTPC/work PC. In other words, we can play WMVHD but not true HD from a DVD.

HDCP run over HDMI cable can be addressed with the transmit/receiver chips. I think what you're describing is only an issue if you want to display HD DVD/BR on your PC monitor when the PC drives become available.

I think so, but with different HDMI versions and a new Sammy on the way, this better work for these sets. That is from a HD/BR DVD STB and PC. That's all I'm saying. lol.

Check this out -

I called Samsung technical support earlier today - mostly out of bordom to ask whether or not the can reccommend a professional calibrator in my area.

The guy I spoke to acted as if he had never heard of a professional calibrator before and said, and I quote, "The televisions come perfectly calibrated, you may just have to change the contrast and brightness."

I said, "Uh, are you kidding? What about adjusting gain and whatnot in the service menu for grey scale and blacks, etc.?"

He said, "Well, what are you experiencing?"

I said that I have read reviews of the television and they say that the picture is amazingly clear, that it looks like wet paint when it is calibrated correctly.

He said, "I don't know what 'calibrated correctly' means."

I said, "Anyway, there is some artifacting, the background of HD is fuzzy, etc."

A moment later he transfered me to a techinician in my area, and they are coming out tomorrow morning to take a look at the television in order to determine whether or not the problem with the picture is a technical problem or a signal problem.

QUESTIONS:

Was that guy just an idiot, or is he just not allowed to say anything because he works for Samsung?

Should I turn the DNIe back on before he comes to service it?

Has anyone experienced this? Morning after visits and Samsung tech being idiots?

Will they actually change any of my settings? As in, will they get it to the point that I don't in a pro to come out and calibrate it?

Thanks!

The technician they send out likely won't know anything about the service mode adjustments you've been changing.

If you think there is a problem with the set, set the service mode parameters back to exactly how they were when you received the set, demonstrate the issue you are having and see what they say.

If the problems you are having have anything to do with the service mode adjustments you have made, expect them to want to void your warranty and say you are on your own (which you basically are once you start adjusting things they never intended for you to mess with).

I'm really surprised you didn't get that kind of response on the phone when you mentioned messing with the service menu.

most technicians get defensive when you mention calibration. i had a sears tech come out one time who told me he had been in the business for x many years and had never of anyone that did calibrations for a living.

after seeing my professionally calibrated tv, he did say it had the best picture he had ever seen :)

i couldn't convince him that my blue gun was dying and that they had calibrated around it.

Samsung recently sent me a new TV for exhange under warranty but something doesnt seem right. High Def is great but when TV is operating at 4:3 (like during commercials) I see a slight inward bow where picture and those 2 black side bars meet. Samething also occurs when picture cuts off at top. Any help guys? Thanks!!!

Samsung recently sent me a new TV for exhange under warranty but something doesnt seem right. High Def is great but when TV is operating at 4:3 (like during commercials) I see a slight inward bow where picture and those 2 black side bars meet. Samething also occurs when picture cuts off at top. Any help guys? Thanks!!!

You are in 4:3 mode right? I have seen this when viewing standard def in anything other than the native 4:3. Especially in panorama mode. I am guessing you are indeed in 4:3 since you see black bars but I thought I'd ask.

Hi guys,

My calibrator was trying to use his signal generator to calibrate the VGA port. He was unable to get the TV to accept either 1080i or 1080p. It came up with "format unknown". The highest he was able to get to work was 1600x1200. We then decided to hook up my Xbox 360 using the VGA plug I purchased for the XBox. The Xbox settings would not allow me to output 1080 at all. The higest was like 1330xsomething. It could only really do 720p. He decided to just calibrate the port at 720p signal.

Is there something I am missing here, or is my VGA port screwed up? I thought the VGA port had no problems with 1920x1080. We tried two different VGA cables and no change.

Thanks

#1 what tv model do you have..

#2 the vga output on the 360 is 1024x768 or something close to that, not your standard widescreen 720 resolution..

Yeh, I did some digging and in this thread and it looks like the XBox only outputs around 720p. My problem is still with the calibrators signal generator only getting 1600x1200 to show. Everything above that is "format not supported."

My tv is a HLR 5668W

BMPowers, I think you missed the posts here that said you enter and modify the SM at your own risk. If you do make any changes you need to record them so that they can be returned to the default if you have your set serviced by a service tech. from Samsung or a calibrator, anyone. I don't know what you changed but I hope you do or you'll have to search for posts that list the common settings you probably modified.

I assume the people at Samsung either thought you meant the user menu, or were nice and ignored that you said SM. Only authorized people are allowed to enter or alter the SM. They are sending a Samsung tech. not a calibrator to look at your set. The first thing they'll do is check the SM for the issue you are addressing I think since I don't think a setting in the UM will cause the issue? I'm not sure if the SM is a part of the LE? Someone here will know. When my LE was replaced the tech. checked the SM for some of the settings and said that they stuck. When I went to check some settings all of the color related settings were set back to default I think, but the inputs and audio stuck.

I did mention calibration to the service tech and she thought it was a gimmick since the Sammy has the best picture in its class. She said I could get it but thought it was a waste of money. Don't tell the service tech you did the calibrating. Let us know how you make out.

#1 what tv model do you have..

#2 the vga output on the 360 is 1024x768 or something close to that, not your standard widescreen 720 resolution..

It is most likely the cable. Get a cable which has all 15 pins on it (no pin should be missing). This was my problem.

Sorry, my point was that you need to eliminate that the issue you are having is being caused by the adjustments you made to the SM, and you can't tell them that anyone changed those settings, so make sure to put them back the way they were. They will replace the LE if there is a picture issue. I left a detailed post on replacing the LE a couple of pages back or so.

I never said I changed anything to them - I was calling to ask for a recomendation for a professional calibrator and he asked what the issues were - the only time I mentioned the SM when I was trying to figure out why he had never heard of professional calibration...

Sorry, but earlier you were asking people about the settings in the SM and your post said that you wanted to know if you should turn the DNIe back on, meaning that you had turned it off, which is done in the SM. Sorry if I misunderstood, but that was what I got from your posts.

No, Samsung won't recommend a calibrator and no they won't adjust your set the way a calibrator would. A tech. will get your set to the factory specs by replacing parts. Any adjustment you make to the UM can be put back to default by you or the tech. although I'd bet some techs are better at knowing what the default settings were than others. I think there is a reset for color or something, which is where it might be more difficult to remember what the default setting is supposed to be. The audio like the EQ doesn't have a reset for instance.

You might cancel your appointment? I don't think I'd have a tech. mess with my set unless I was sure there was an issue not related to the broadcast, which I find is usually the problem, like audio lag when using the Sammy speakers.

It is most likely the cable. Get a cable which has all 15 pins on it (no pin should be missing). This was my problem.


Yes, we tried the a couple different cables. All had the 15 pins in them. Its quite odd, I just hope the VGA port is not messed up. I may try to feed my CPU to it next and see what I find.

My impression was the Xbox 360 could definitely produce 1080 ... I really hope that's the case for you!

Hi guys,

My calibrator was trying to use his signal generator to calibrate the VGA port. He was unable to get the TV to accept either 1080i or 1080p. It came up with "format unknown". The highest he was able to get to work was 1600x1200. We then decided to hook up my Xbox 360 using the VGA plug I purchased for the XBox. The Xbox settings would not allow me to output 1080 at all. The higest was like 1330xsomething. It could only really do 720p. He decided to just calibrate the port at 720p signal.

Is there something I am missing here, or is my VGA port screwed up? I thought the VGA port had no problems with 1920x1080. We tried two different VGA cables and no change.

Thanks

The 360 will only output 1080i over the component outs only. All the VGA inputs need to be Progressive and the highest output resolution by the Xbox 360 using VGA is 1280x1024P but to view everything in the proper proportion it only uses 720 lines of the 1024 otherwise the picture will be stretched. I leave my 360 at 1280x720P with the VGA input. And there is no lag with the VGA input. I thought there was no lag with the component input at first until I tried the VGA input with PGR3 and I would always get better scores with the VGA input. My only conclusion was that there must be a slight amount of lag over component. And this is with the DNIe disabled.
My 6168 has no problem accepting 1920x1080P and 1920x1200P over the VGA input from my HTPC. If you don't have a VGA cable that has the wires to transmit the frequency requirements from the TV you have to adjust the frequencies manually which is how I have my HTPC setup with my 6168 right now. If you have the proper cable the PC will automatically have the info and it will show you the options of 1920x1080/1200P in the display settings.

The 360 will only output 1080i over the component outs only. All the VGA inputs need to be Progressive and the highest output resolution by the Xbox 360 using VGA is 1280x1024P but to view everything in the proper proportion it only uses 720 lines of the 1024 otherwise the picture will be stretched. I leave my 360 at 1280x720P with the VGA input. And there is no lag with the VGA input. I thought there was no lag with the component input at first until I tried the VGA input with PGR3 and I would always get better scores with the VGA input. My only conclusion was that there must be a slight amount of lag over component. And this is with the DNIe disabled.
My 6168 has no problem accepting 1920x1080P and 1920x1200P over the VGA input from my HTPC. If you don't have a VGA cable that has the wires to transmit the frequency requirements from the TV you have to adjust the frequencies manually which is how I have my HTPC setup with my 6168 right now. If you have the proper cable the PC will automatically have the info and it will show you the options of 1920x1080/1200P in the display settings.

Aaronwt,

Thanks for the input. I was able to hook up my shuttle pc to the 5668 and get the two 1920 settings to appear and work. I guess the calibrator's signal generator was not adjusted correctly for the 1080 signal to the 5668. I feel better now, looks like all is well.

Vegasjay

You are in 4:3 mode right? I have seen this when viewing standard def in anything other than the native 4:3. Especially in panorama mode. I am guessing you are indeed in 4:3 since you see black bars but I thought I'd ask.


Yeah, I'll be watching TV in HD and when they goto commercials those two side bars come on and causes the bars to bow inward. Should I report this problem to Samsung? They're not that noticeable but its there. My only concern is this problem getting worse. Otherwise, HD looks GREAT!

I'm trying to find some solid info on Samsung's HL-S5679W LED dlp. I've been looking online & I've noticed inconsistencies that vary from site to site.

1st) The LED lasts 20,000 hours. Is that the maximum or is that a conservative estimate?

2nd) 1080p resolution. Is it true 1080p or is it using wobulation?

3rd) No rainbows. Is it true that there is no chance of seeing rainbows since there is no longer a colorwheel?

4th) What are the dimensions of the set? (I'm going to build a custom hometheater cabinet & I can't find the dimensions anywhere for this set?)

5th) What is "game mode" & how does it improve the quality of videogames? Does it fix game lag on DLPs?

6th) Do DLPs have scaling problems when it comes to videogames?

7th) Is the HL-S5679W HDCP compliant?

HongE81, all the sets look like ) ( . You really only notice it when the picture isn't full screen, like when they use black bars on the sides, like you mentioned. Some broadcast gray bars instead and you don't get the ) ( look. HTPC, and HD looks fine. If the text is distorted or something then you'd have a LE issue. I don't think anyone has mentioned that so I wouldn't worry about it, that's just the way it is. Hopefully you don't watch too much content that isn't HD. lol.

OK folks. I need some advice here. I sold my HLN507W 720P to my son-in-law, thinking that getting a 1080p would be a significant upgrade. I now have a HL-R5078W. I have it on a 30-day return policy (two weeks left). What I expected:

1) Greater Contrast, so I could view a decent picture without burning my eyes out. The 720P had 1000:1 contrast; the 1080p had 5000+:1 contrast. I am very pleased with the Blacks that I get out of the new machine and I can view a picture without wearing sunglasses!
2) 2 HDMI inputs
3) I wanted at least as good PQ from my upconvert player for movies. This is where I am disappointed. The MOVIE mode on the 1080p has a rusty red hue that cannot be adjusted. Is this just my TV or is this typical for this model? This same offcolor is observed when I watch TV using the MOVIE mode. Can it be fixed by paying for calibration? or should I trade my TV in as being defective.

Folks on this site talk about the beautifuly picture. I would really like to make this TV work for me. Has anyone had a successful calibration done professionally?

I don't think anyone recommends building a cabinet based on dimensions of a product that isn't shipping yet? Even it were shipping I don't know if I'd trust the dimensions on a website. I'd have the set first and confirm that the information is correct. What are you going to do, call the Samsung webmaster about a typo? lol.

I would love to build a HT wall, not a cabinet and a raised platform in the back of the livingroom with HT seating. I'm all for building but I wouldn't buy materials until I was sure I had the right info.

The tech came out - didn't do anything, was here for about 2 minutes before saying that I would get a better picture by switching to Direct TV - and that it will be even better with their MPEG 4 stuff coming out.

Direct TVs HD/DVR combo is SO expensive! I don't want to lay down another 400 bones.

And then maybe even still want to get it calbrated.

I don't know. I need help.

Don't get Direct TV now until the new HD DVR STBs are out like the tech. said. I'm stuck with Comsucks for now until those are out and there is a promo for two HD DVR stb. The thing is you sign a one year contract and then you aren't considered a new customer and miss out on better promos. Comsucks gave us two HD DVR STB for about $15 and $17 a month. It is more expensive but I'm hoping anyday the new box and promo will be out and Comsucks doesn't have a contract. That's the only reason why I have them. CNN I think has the best SD PQ on cable.

OK folks. I need some advice here. I sold my HLN507W 720P to my son-in-law, thinking that getting a 1080p would be a significant upgrade. I now have a HL-R5078W. I have it on a 30-day return policy (two weeks left). What I expected:

1) Greater Contrast, so I could view a decent picture without burning my eyes out. The 720P had 1000:1 contrast; the 1080p had 5000+:1 contrast. I am very pleased with the Blacks that I get out of the new machine and I can view a picture without wearing sunglasses!
2) 2 HDMI inputs
3) I wanted at least as good PQ from my upconvert player for movies. This is where I am disappointed. The MOVIE mode on the 1080p has a rusty red hue that cannot be adjusted. Is this just my TV or is this typical for this model? This same offcolor is observed when I watch TV using the MOVIE mode. Can it be fixed by paying for calibration? or should I trade my TV in as being defective.

Folks on this site talk about the beautifuly picture. I would really like to make this TV work for me. Has anyone had a successful calibration done professionally?


I just had my 5668 calibrated yesterday along with a velux install, and I can say I am very impressed with the PQ now. I plan to post a better review soon, but for now, it definitely made a great improvement.

For those interested: My 6768 fan problem "fixed" itself last night. The tv had been cutting off after 30 minutes and an error messsage was displayed which said: "check cooling fan no. 1" So tweeters agreed to give me a new set. In the mean time, they agreed to give me a loaner tv since they said it could take 3 weeks for mine to come in. They brought out the loaner today, but of course we watched the sammy last night for over 7 hours and it never quit. Go figure.

What they brought me was a 62" Mitzy 720p. I think it's the 62725. So now I can compare the two. Here are my observations. The mitz has the anti-glare screen which I think they should rename the glare screen. The Sammy has zero glare compared to the mitz. I don't like the mitzy user interface, much more involved and complicated than it needs to be. And the remote is lacking also. The speaker cover is cheap looking cloth and the front access panal is cheezy and flimsy. A real surprise considering I have a couple of mitzy crt tv's and really love their quality. The picture quality is very good with natural looking colors, however, 720 in no way matches 1080p. I will admit that while the mitz is not as bright overall as the sammy, it doesn't suffer the black crush either. If you are watching HD 1080I like inhd the sammy is much better. But the mitz, even at 720 does as good or better job at SD. One thing I do like is that you can zoom even component imputs, unlike the sammy. And you can do it with one button and not have to use the interface.

Anyone have left over Velux they wanna sell? I guess PM me. I really don't have the time but if the price was right I better not pass it up. lol.

Here's a minor trivia point that may help someone, but I doubt it. I'm only posting it to expung myself of the guilt I have for not figuring this out right away. :)

I spent about two weeks trying to figure out why the 1080p picture quality from my spiffy new Xcube mini-PC (http://xc.aopen.com.tw/Cube-m-specification%20.aspx?Auno=11&mdstyl=25) looked like crap. There was horribly obvious ghosting on all Windows icons, windows, text, etc. and all of the colors were washed out. I was using a 15 foot long VGA cable that I picked up on the cheap from monoprice.com for use with my laptop, and figured I'd just use it for the PC. I tried a new video card, tweaking a bunch of service menu settings, messing with various Windows color settings, all no joy.

Then, to save space behind my TV, I grabbed a spare VGA cable I had laying around, and ... whoa! The difference in picture quality was like night and day. Maybe it had something to do with the cable length, or shielding, or maybe it was the quality of the cable itself.

So, lessons learned:

Sometimes cable quality matters. Unless you're talking about these $150 Monster cables, which are just dumb.
Gaming in full 1920x1080p with DD5.1 rocks. Turn those gore levels up!


Here's a low-light picture that is out of focus but almost shows how stunning the picture is now. Clicky for big. If you look closely, you can see the PC sitting behind the TV on the left side.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v606/bigray327/blog/gadget/VGAinput_small.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v606/bigray327/blog/gadget/VGAinput.jpg)

Hello all!

Has anyone that has had their set calibrated noticed an improvement in the quality of their picture when viewing standard definition material? Also does anyone know what the sub- brightness and sub-contrast in the service menu does? Was these two values changed when your set was calibrated? Could someone who has had their set calibrated please post a before and after of their service menu?

HEY...I forgot to mention that I run the sound out from my comcast motorola STB to both the TV and my av amp. With the sammy I need the felston to sync the sound if I have both volumes up. With the Mitz............not needed,,,,,NO LAG.....it is a Sammy problem! Also, a 4X3 displayed picture does not have the little white lines and is not pincushioned like the sammy.

Hi everyone im new to this forum and would like to ask a couple of questions.
First question is in the Service Menu of my New HL-R7178W how can I save the gamma readings for each input as in (0)film,(!)graphics,(2)video, it seems as when I change thiese settings they are universal affecting every input. When I swicth it to Graphics for my pc input which makes a big difference it seems to stay like that for all other inputs. Please help. David Abram is coming next month to calibrate my set and he does a great gob if anyone is intrested. Second qeustion is can anyone post thier precaliration and postcalibration service menu settings just as comparison, I will post all my settings as soon as David comes and does mine.

Hello all!

Has anyone that has had their set calibrated noticed an improvement in the quality of their picture when viewing standard definition material? Also does anyone know what the sub- brightness and sub-contrast in the service menu does? Was these two values changed when your set was calibrated? Could someone who has had their set calibrated please post a before and after of their service menu?

Sub brightness and sub contrast adjust the brightness and contrast for the current scan rate/input. I always adjust them when calibrating a set so that the user contrast/brightness settings can be left at their default when possible.

Sub brightness and sub contrast adjust the brightness and contrast for the current scan rate/input. I always adjust them when calibrating a set so that the user contrast/brightness settings can be left at their default when possible.

Can you explain that in a little more detail please. Im not sure what you mean by current scan rate/ input. Do you mean each input for the tv?
thanks

Whatever input you are on (HDMI1, HDMI2, etc.) and scan rate (480i, 480p, etc.) being received when you are in the service mode. Some are shared, some are specific to different inputs, input types (component, digital, etc.) or scan rates. I'm not sure anyone has exactly mapped out which ones are unique or shared.

Whatever input you are on (HDMI1, HDMI2, etc.) and scan rate (480i, 480p, etc.) being received when you are in the service mode. Some are shared, some are specific to different inputs, input types (component, digital, etc.) or scan rates. I'm not sure anyone has exactly mapped out which ones are unique or shared.


OK I see now. So if I am in the service mode and the tv is on say the HDMI 1 input then if I adjust the sub contrast or brightness it will only affect that specific input. I am having a lot of problems with black cursh on high -def channels mainly using my dvr on HDMI 1 and on regular coax in.

thanks

Of course you can achieve the exact same thing without going into the service menus. Just adjust the normal brightness and contrast in the user menus for each input.

Much less risky.

Do you know what the steps are in the discrete code that you use?
I would like to enter/exit the SM without using a lamp cycle.

The only way to enter/exit the SM without a power cycle is to use the discrete code with requires a programmable remote.

Anyone know what to adjust to remove white lines on each side of picture when viewing 4:3? It happens on both my dvr and on regular coax input.

The technician they send out likely won't know anything about the service mode adjustments you've been changing.

If you think there is a problem with the set, set the service mode parameters back to exactly how they were when you received the set, demonstrate the issue you are having and see what they say.

If the problems you are having have anything to do with the service mode adjustments you have made, expect them to want to void your warranty and say you are on your own (which you basically are once you start adjusting things they never intended for you to mess with).

I'm really surprised you didn't get that kind of response on the phone when you mentioned messing with the service menu.

So Steve - does this mean that you are saying that getting the set professionally calibrated will VOID the warranty? It certainly sounds like you are saying that! Please clarify.

Thanks!

Technically, it may. It is certainly the prerogative of the manufacturer. Many manufacturers are supporting professional calibration these days so it may not be as much of an issue in that case.

The bottom line is that if you go in there and change things you need to be responsible and not ask them to provide warranty service for something you mess up.

If there is a failure unrelated to the changes you have made I would expect them to honor the warranty, and that has been my experience with customers who have needed service after calibration.

As a calibrator, if I break a set changing something in the service menu I am willing to take responsibility for it. I would hope that individuals that venture in there would do the same and not become an unnecessary burden on the manufacturers. Mitsubishi removed critical color decoder adjustments from many of their sets for years because of exactly that kind of thing.

Just like a car. If you disable the red line limiter and then burn up your engine, you need to be responsible for the damage you did and not expect them to repair it under warranty.

I'm not speaking for Steve but the way I see it is if the adjustments you or a calibrator performed that caused PQ issues that you needed service for, when the set was already calibrated at the factory then they could say it was an unauthorized service and that would void the warranty. I assume there is some connection with professional calibrators and the manufacturers but that has always been a gray area for me?

Also, they didn't open or repair the set, they just adjusted it. They improved the PQ not worsen it. I guess if someone not qualified were to mess with the SM that the image might not be watchable. The service menu is just like the BIOS on a computer, but worse in the sense that a BIOS can return to its default and it is clearer as to what each option does and what they affect.

I asked about installing Velux since that is opening the cabinet by an unauthorized tech. and the consensus here is that you aren't damaging the Sammy or the PQ by doing that. Bottom line I think is you can't call about an issue that was caused by you, like doing a mod. on your car or computer.

When I got my TV calibrated a few months ago, Eliab pointed out some light colored horizontal lines that appear on my HLR6168 whenever the screen is really dark like in a movie when the credits are rolling on a black screen. These lines appear both with my DVD player and the cable STB. They are about 1/4 inch thick and equally spaced at about 1.5 inches and are more light grey than white in color. I meant to call Samsung customer support but kept putting it off cos it didn't really bother me a lot and I was just plain lazy. I was wondering if anyone else on the forum has seen these lines and if it can be fixed?

Hi all,

I have been enjoying my HLR5678 until tonight. Got home, fired up the set and noticed a strange shadow on left edge of screen. It appears on all inputs and it looks like something came loose inside set and is either interfering with lamp, lens or inside of screen. See attached photo and let me know if anybody has seen this before and how to fix.

Thanks in advance.

Hi, I'm a newbie in need of some help (please forgive me if this has been answered before, I quit trying to read the entire thread after the twelfth page).

I just got an HLR5678, my very first non-CRT. It's hooked to a Denon S-301 thru an Audioquest HDMI cable. I've calibrated the picture as best I can per my DVE dvd, and the Magnolia sales rep says my brightness/contract settings are not unreasonable: brtns 46; cntrs 80. Still, during certain darker scenes (like the intro title sequence to 5th Element) I encounter a greenish noise pattern. I can drop the brightness further to make it go away (around 24) but that makes dark movies like The Name of the Rose unwatchable. I don't know if this is the macroblocking I've heard about, but it doesn't appear when I play the signal thru my xbox or through a yellow video cable.

Another, possibly separate issue: many times the pictures also have a greenish cast; however the color controls that the HDMI enables don't seen very intuitive, and I haven't managed to address the problem by playing with them.

I've been waiting years for a widescreen TV, but now that I have one it's been a lot of frustration. If anyone knows the answer to this, you would be my personal hero.
Thanks

Hi, I'm a newbie in need of some help (please forgive me if this has been answered before, I quit trying to read the entire thread after the twelfth page).

I just got an HLR5678, my very first non-CRT. It's hooked to a Denon S-301 thru an Audioquest HDMI cable. I've calibrated the picture as best I can per my DVE dvd, and the Magnolia sales rep says my brightness/contract settings are not unreasonable: brtns 46; cntrs 80. Still, during certain darker scenes (like the intro title sequence to 5th Element) I encounter a greenish noise pattern. I can drop the brightness further to make it go away (around 24) but that makes dark movies like The Name of the Rose unwatchable. I don't know if this is the macroblocking I've heard about, but it doesn't appear when I play the signal thru my xbox or through a yellow video cable.

Another, possibly separate issue: many times the pictures also have a greenish cast; however the color controls that the HDMI enables don't seen very intuitive, and I haven't managed to address the problem by playing with them.

I've been waiting years for a widescreen TV, but now that I have one it's been a lot of frustration. If anyone knows the answer to this, you would be my personal hero.
Thanks

Noise patterns are usually originating in your DVD player ... it may be macroblocking (I am unfamiliar with your DVD player). If it is macroblocking, then there is an easy fix: buy a new DVD player. See my post (POST #4 in this thread) on up-shifting DVD players. The Sony NS975V has been discontinued, now I would recomment the NS3100ES in it's place.

Ryzvy, that sounds like the hash mark issue? I'm surprised Eliab calibrated the set instead of suggesting that you have it serviced first? I'm not sure but it seems most issues are resolved with a LE replacement, which I think means you'll need to have it calibrated again. Everything related to the PQ seems to be LE related.

GeoMetro, that just happened to me out of the blue. I don't know what causes it but they replaced the LE and everything is perfect, back to normal. They don't bother replacing components on the LE, they just replace the whole thing. It would be interesting to know what causes that though.

Ryzvy, that sounds like the hash mark issue? I'm surprised Eliab calibrated the set instead of suggesting that you have it serviced first? I'm not sure but it seems most issues are resolved with a LE replacement, which I think means you'll need to have it calibrated again. Everything related to the PQ seems to be LE related.

Bcvp: Thanks for your response. I think Eliab noticed it at the end of the calibration when we played a DVD since the problem only appears during black screens. He did very kindly offer to calibrate it again for free after I got the set serviced. The PQ apart from the lines is exceptional, and after hearing the horror stories of some people who got their LE replaced I am a bit reluctant to play dice with a new LE which may solve one problem and replace it with something else :confused: By the way what is "the hash mark issue"?

GeoMetro, that just happened to me out of the blue. I don't know what causes it but they replaced the LE and everything is perfect, back to normal. They don't bother replacing components on the LE, they just replace the whole thing. It would be interesting to know what causes that though.
Wow, and thanks for the feedback bcvp! That is a bummer to hear and very strange. I had Eliab calibrate my set a few months back, and guess if I have the LE replaced, we would have to do it again :(

Bcvp: Thanks for your response. I think Eliab noticed it at the end of the calibration when we played a DVD since the problem only appears during black screens. He did very kindly offer to calibrate it again for free after I got the set serviced. The PQ apart from the lines is exceptional, and after hearing the horror stories of some people who got their LE replaced I am a bit reluctant to play dice with a new LE which may solve one problem and replace it with something else :confused: By the way what is "the hash mark issue"?

I don't think the lines you are seeing are the hashmark lines. I have them and they appear at the top of the screen as well as a third the way down. The ones at the top are visible in a dark room when playing a letterboxed (2.35:1) DVD. You have to have a black screen, be standing above it and looking down to see the ones toward the middle of the screen. The effect appears as a colorful pattern of some kind being generated in the light engine or around the lens. It's being discussed in the "Samsung is screwing me" thread. Johnnyzcar has pictures posted there. Apparently, Samsung is aware of it and is working to address it.

Bill

I think the LEs are probably refurbished since they replace the whole LE. I guess its possible to have a defective LE, new, refurb. or used? Its just a matter of them replacing it again. Thirty minutes tops aside from the aggravation of needing to make another service appointment.

Now that I know what I know, Johnnyzcar should just get a new LE. If he had three replaced, the original, and at least two more and there is still an issue then I guess it could be something else. The great thing about the Sammy is the picture is made up of the LE, mirror on the back of the set and the screen. That's it. If the screen and mirror is fine then its the LE.

If I remember correctly, the hash mark issue is a small group of lines that look like a razor blade or like this = I think usually at the top center? That was when people thought it was a mark or scratch on the lens. Either way if it isn't caused by the screen or mirror then its the LE. Johnnyzcar totally got the runaround and that really bothers me. He should just demand a new LE and see if that takes care of it. I haven't heard any updates from him but I'd hope everything's fixed already?

OK folks. I need some advice here. I sold my HLN507W 720P to my son-in-law, thinking that getting a 1080p would be a significant upgrade. I now have a HL-R5078W. I have it on a 30-day return policy (two weeks left). What I expected:

1) Greater Contrast, so I could view a decent picture without burning my eyes out. The 720P had 1000:1 contrast; the 1080p had 5000+:1 contrast. I am very pleased with the Blacks that I get out of the new machine and I can view a picture without wearing sunglasses!
2) 2 HDMI inputs
3) I wanted at least as good PQ from my upconvert player for movies. This is where I am disappointed. The MOVIE mode on the 1080p has a rusty red hue that cannot be adjusted. Is this just my TV or is this typical for this model? This same offcolor is observed when I watch TV using the MOVIE mode. Can it be fixed by paying for calibration? or should I trade my TV in as being defective.

Folks on this site talk about the beautifuly picture. I would really like to make this TV work for me. Has anyone had a successful calibration done professionally?

My TV was Claibrated two weeks ago and boy does it look different than before. My PQ is off the charts and also the color levels are so much more stable and the black is very dark, which is the way it should be, but only after the Velux was installed. I am very impressed with the calibration.

The service Tech from Samusng doesnt know what they are talking about. "That the TV's look good with the factory settings, and a calibrations is a waste of money". Whoever told you this doesnt know much about their own TV's, So sad to hear. I think that the calibration is not a waste of money and DOES make a HUGE diiference. At least for me.

I hate to get back to the Velux discussion but I was just thinking if the back of the screen that is removed during the Velux install. needs the Velux as well? I'd imagine light reflects around the screen as well, if the screen has the gray plastic, which I assume it does?

Hi all,

I have been enjoying my HLR5678 until tonight. Got home, fired up the set and noticed a strange shadow on left edge of screen. It appears on all inputs and it looks like something came loose inside set and is either interfering with lamp, lens or inside of screen. See attached photo and let me know if anybody has seen this before and how to fix.

Thanks in advance.What a strange coincidence! I haven't been following this thread for quite awhile but came here today to see if anybody had this problem and I see your post just four or five up from the bottom. It is as if you came over my house and took a picture of my HLR6768. Looks like I gave my kids the third degree for nothing ("Who touched daddy's TV?!?")...

- Anthony

Hi all,

I have been enjoying my HLR5678 until tonight. Got home, fired up the set and noticed a strange shadow on left edge of screen. It appears on all inputs and it looks like something came loose inside set and is either interfering with lamp, lens or inside of screen. See attached photo and let me know if anybody has seen this before and how to fix.

Thanks in advance.
Exact same thing happened to my 6178 before I traded it for a 6768.

What a strange coincidence! I haven't been following this thread for quite awhile but came here today to see if anybody had this problem and I see your post just four or five up from the bottom. It is as if you came over my house and took a picture of my HLR6768. Looks like I gave my kids the third degree for nothing ("Who touched daddy's TV?!?")...

- Anthony
Yes, that is very strange! Did you contact Samsung yet? I just put in call today to have Tech come over. What a bummer :(

Exact same thing happened to my 6178 before I traded it for a 6768.
Did you find out what the problem was? Also, how did you trade up like that?
Thanks!

Hi All,

Picked up a 6178W yesterday to replace my 1.5 year old WD62725 (which i moved to my bedroom! :cool: ). I am really amazed at the difference between the two products. The new samsung is SO much brighter and the contrast is super high. The picture looks "blockier" though, almost as if it has a photoshop filter applied to it smoothing out the picture almost too much. It gives it an artificial plastic-y look. Does that make sense? Is that the DNIe doing that?

The main reason I purchased this TV was for the 1920x1080p pc input. Even if its not 1:1 mapping, it looks darn good. I hooked up my laptop with a 7800GTX in it, and played WoW @ 1920x1080@60hz for 5 hours last night. It was absolutely perfect -- super rich colors, zero video lag, amazing! After a bit of centering and auto-align steps, the image was perfect edge-to-edge. This TV has NO geometry issues, unlike my 62725.

I'm having a hard time looking thru this huge thread for a few questions I would like to know.

1: How do i disable DNIe? Should I disable it, and if so, why?
2: Is there anyway to do 1:1 mapping at lower non wobulated resolutions (aka 1280x780p).
3: Do i need an advanced remote to access the SM? Will the provided remote not work?
4: Can someone explain the technical reason why a 1:1 pixel mapping cannot be attained using the current 1080p rendering method?

Thank you!

1: How do i disable DNIe? Should I disable it, and if so, why?
2: Is there anyway to do 1:1 mapping at lower non wobulated resolutions (aka 1280x780p).
3: Do i need an advanced remote to access the SM? Will the provided remote not work?
4: Can someone explain the technical reason why a 1:1 pixel mapping cannot be attained using the current 1080p rendering method?



1. It can be done by shutting off 6-7 processes in the DNIe service menu (I'll try and find the post that has it). There is no "on/off" switch for the whole thing ANYWHERE in the TV settings. Even though there is an on/off setting in the service menu, it does not stick so don't bother.

2. Don't know, sorry. :)

3. Your regular remote will work. Push "mute, 1, 8, 2, power" and the TV will turn on and load the service menu. When you're done changing settings, simply power off and on again.
Keep in mind, if you decide to turn off DNIe you will need to redo the procedure for each input/resolution. The DNIe settings are not global.

I hate to get back to the Velux discussion but I was just thinking if the back of the screen that is removed during the Velux install. needs the Velux as well? I'd imagine light reflects around the screen as well, if the screen has the gray plastic, which I assume it does?

Yes you need to cover all the grey areas inside the TV, even around the mirror. You only have to take off the front of the screen for the Velux install. Nothing else. You dont even have to remove the TV off the stand. The screen doesnt have any grey plastic to it. It is frosted plastic that is all with that.

What do you mean?

I have seen a couple posts asking this, but I don't recall seeing an answer.
Is the 6168 HDMI software/firmware upgradeable? What I mean is, if HDMI 1.3 makes a difference, is it upgradeable without new hardware? Samsung tech support has no clue.

I guess I was wondering if any of the plastic around the screen needs to be covered with the Velux? To me it seems there is a good amount of plastic that makes up the frame around the screen? I have the 5678. There seems to be about an inch of plastic along the top and sides of the screen and at least that much if not more on the bottom? Also, I don't think anyone said how much Velux they used for the different size sets? I put in a "bid" to buy extra Velux people might have left over.

Hi All,

Picked up a 6178W yesterday to replace my 1.5 year old WD62725 (which i moved to my bedroom! :cool: ). I am really amazed at the difference between the two products. The new samsung is SO much brighter and the contrast is super high. The picture looks "blockier" though, almost as if it has a photoshop filter applied to it smoothing out the picture almost too much. It gives it an artificial plastic-y look. Does that make sense? Is that the DNIe doing that?

The main reason I purchased this TV was for the 1920x1080p pc input. Even if its not 1:1 mapping, it looks darn good. I hooked up my laptop with a 7800GTX in it, and played WoW @ 1920x1080@60hz for 5 hours last night. It was absolutely perfect -- super rich colors, zero video lag, amazing! After a bit of centering and auto-align steps, the image was perfect edge-to-edge. This TV has NO geometry issues, unlike my 62725.

I'm having a hard time looking thru this huge thread for a few questions I would like to know.

1: How do i disable DNIe? Should I disable it, and if so, why?
2: Is there anyway to do 1:1 mapping at lower non wobulated resolutions (aka 1280x780p).
3: Do i need an advanced remote to access the SM? Will the provided remote not work?
4: Can someone explain the technical reason why a 1:1 pixel mapping cannot be attained using the current 1080p rendering method?

Thank you!

When you get your TV calibrated then the DNIe can be turned off on all inputs or the inputs that you want to be tunred off. Just like mine, at all inputs my DNIe is turned off and the picture looks great only after the calibration, but before the calibration, DNIe needed to be on to make the PQ somewhat looking good. Either way, after the calibration, the PQ is so AWESOME AND AMAZING.

The only thing that sucks about all this calibration is that when you change the bulb or get a new Lens, Board, etc, you have to re-calibrate the TV. (:

I have seen a couple posts asking this, but I don't recall seeing an answer.
Is the 6168 HDMI software/firmware upgradeable? What I mean is, if HDMI 1.3 makes a difference, is it upgradeable without new hardware? Samsung tech support has no clue.

I thought I have read that many post back that you cannot upgrade the firmware, the one way to do that is to change the DMD board with the new firmware. Am I wrong about this?

I thought I have read that many post back that you cannot upgrade the firmware, the one way to do that is to change the DMD board with the new firmware. Am I wrong about this?

No I think you are right.. at least as far as I can tell. Thats what Samsung is telling me. "None of the Samsung TV's can be upgraded" per tier 2.

I was just hoping someone would say they knew it could be done. I guess most of the differences between the HDMI versions are audio related so heck with it, I'll leave the Samsung out of the audio loop. Thanks

I guess I was wondering if any of the plastic around the screen needs to be covered with the Velux? To me it seems there is a good amount of plastic that makes up the frame around the screen? I have the 5678. There seems to be about an inch of plastic along the top and sides of the screen and at least that much if not more on the bottom? Also, I don't think anyone said how much Velux they used for the different size sets? I put in a "bid" to buy extra Velux people might have left over.

Everything that is grey inside the TV needs to be covered because when the light is projected back to the screen then that color grey will show through the screen. I dont know how much Velux to use. I think mine was about 6-8 feet in all. Every size is different. My TV is 100% Covered with Velux. Excluding the mirror of course!!!

I guess I was wondering if any of the plastic around the screen needs to be covered with the Velux? To me it seems there is a good amount of plastic that makes up the frame around the screen? I have the 5678. There seems to be about an inch of plastic along the top and sides of the screen and at least that much if not more on the bottom? Also, I don't think anyone said how much Velux they used for the different size sets? I put in a "bid" to buy extra Velux people might have left over.

The inside of the screen, dont cover at all. You dont need to waste any material for that because the light/picture from the lens is already projected through the screen for you to see the picture, so it wont matter if it is covered. The most important part is the grey part of the inner cabinet, all this needs to be covered 100%.

No I think you are right.. at least as far as I can tell. Thats what Samsung is telling me. "None of the Samsung TV's can be upgraded" per tier 2.

I was just hoping someone would say they knew it could be done. I guess most of the differences between the HDMI versions are audio related so heck with it, I'll leave the Samsung out of the audio loop. Thanks

Thanks. I wonder why the Samsung techs sometimes play dumb about this stuff and about the calibrations. Dont they know that they TV's look so much better with a calibration and with the Velux installed on them?
I would leave them totally out of the loop regarding the audio stuff, just like you said.

Afaik there is no FW available to be upgraded. I heard Samsung doesn't make the FW available to the public or consumer. If it were available you could probably do it yourself like the Velux and changing the SM. They don't want anyone changing the SM since they would get thousands of calls from people who don't know what they are doing. The same would be true for the FW. I don't think the FW only applies to audio. Once someone gets hold of a copy I'm sure everyone here will upgrade it. In other words the only reason why you can't is because its not available, not that its not possible. Probably a tech. or calibrator would get it first.

Afaik there is no FW available to be upgraded. I heard Samsung doesn't make the FW available to the public or consumer. If it were available you could probably do it yourself like the Velux and changing the SM. They don't want anyone changing the SM since they would get thousands of calls from people who don't know what they are doing. The same would be true for the FW. I don't think the FW only applies to audio. Once someone gets hold of a copy I'm sure everyone here will upgrade it. In other words the only reason why you can't is because its not available, not that its not possible. Probably a tech. or calibrator would get it first.
When I called Samsung, they told me that you have to change the DMD board in order to get the new firmware. There is no way to download the new firmware in the boards that we already have in our TV's. What a con job if you ask me, so if you ever want new firmware, you have to buy and change the DMD board. What a scam.

If you have your TV's calibrated well, then you wouldnt need new firmware anyway, unless if you hook your PC up to the TV, which I never do. So this does not affect me.

Tint appears not to be user adjustable for component inputs (both interlaced and progressive) and for HD cable channels. It's fixed (grayed out) at G50/R50. However, the Avia DVD on component inputs, at least, clearly shows that's an incorrect setting.

I'm guessing that can be corrected within the service menu, right? I do intend to have an ISF calibration in a few weeks, but meanwhile I'd like to tweak what I can. Anybody know the appropriate SM parameter(s)? I'm not terribly nervous about getting inside the SM, since I've already modified DNIe, V/H Position, Gamma, etc. for all inputs and resolutions.

I'm guessing that Sub Color/Contrast/Brightness are the base parameters for the correspondingly named user adjustments... but what corresponds to tint? Do I have to mess with ADV7401(M) >> Hue or the various CCA color parameters? TIA!

Tint appears not to be user adjustable for component inputs (both interlaced and progressive) and for HD cable channels. It's fixed (grayed out) at G50/R50. However, the Avia DVD on component inputs, at least, clearly shows that's an incorrect setting.

I'm guessing that can be corrected within the service menu, right? I do intend to have an ISF calibration in a few weeks, but meanwhile I'd like to tweak what I can. Anybody know the appropriate SM parameter(s)? I'm not terribly nervous about getting inside the SM, since I've already modified DNIe, V/H Position, Gamma, etc. for all inputs and resolutions.

I'm guessing that Sub Color/Contrast/Brightness are the base parameters for the correspondingly named user adjustments... but what corresponds to tint? Do I have to mess with ADV7401(M) >> Hue or the various CCA color parameters? TIA!

BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN ENTERING THE SM!!!

IF I WERE YOU, I WOULD LEAVE ALL YOUR SM SETTINGS RIGHT WHERE THEY ARE, SO WHEN YOU CALIBRATE YOUR TV, YOU CAN SEE THE BEFORE AND AFTER CALIBRATION SETTINGS.

This will give you a chance to really see how bad the factory settings were. Just like on the PDF file that I posted back in early Feb.

BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN ENTERING THE SM!!!

IF I WERE YOU, I WOULD LEAVE ALL YOUR SM SETTINGS RIGHT WHERE THEY ARE, SO WHEN YOU CALIBRATE YOUR TV, YOU CAN SEE THE BEFORE AND AFTER CALIBRATION SETTINGS.

This will give you a chance to really see how bad the factory settings were. Just like on the PDF file that I posted back in early Feb.

I appreciate your concern. I always record SM settings before modifying them, and it is indeed interesting to compare before/after versions.

Back to the original question: anybody know how to fix tint on component and HD tuner inputs?

Tint appears not to be user adjustable for component inputs (both interlaced and progressive) and for HD cable channels. It's fixed (grayed out) at G50/R50. However, the Avia DVD on component inputs, at least, clearly shows that's an incorrect setting.

I'm guessing that can be corrected within the service menu, right? I do intend to have an ISF calibration in a few weeks, but meanwhile I'd like to tweak what I can. Anybody know the appropriate SM parameter(s)? I'm not terribly nervous about getting inside the SM, since I've already modified DNIe, V/H Position, Gamma, etc. for all inputs and resolutions.

I'm guessing that Sub Color/Contrast/Brightness are the base parameters for the correspondingly named user adjustments... but what corresponds to tint? Do I have to mess with ADV7401(M) >> Hue or the various CCA color parameters? TIA!
A better place to start might be the color sensitivity settings in the user menu.

Right, aside from buying and installing an expensive part and possibly voiding the warranty, there is no FW update available. The FW is a very small file that should be very easy to install if it were available.

That said I wonder if the digital board on the new models will fit these current sets? That might be worth the cost of the part, if it were compatible.

Right, aside from buying and installing an expensive part and possibly voiding the warranty, there is no FW update available. The FW is a very small file that should be very easy to install if it were available.

That said I wonder if the digital board on the new models will fit these current sets? That might be worth the cost of the part, if it were compatible.

What exactly is newer firmware getting you?

Seems like a lot of concern over nothing.

FW could add or fix things software related like the SM, UM, DNIe. It can't add another HDMI input or other hardware issue but there isn't really a limit as to what they could do. Its a matter of what they are willing to do. With the new models out so soon it is unlikely they will do much afa using resources on these sets though. I think people here were looking forward to some issues that could be addressed with a simple FW update.

In the HLRxx78W Series Brochure, the four x78w models have different Brightness, as follows:

50" - 900 (cd/m2)
56" - 700 (cd/m2)
61" - 600 (cd/m2)
71" - 500 (cd/m2)

What does this mean? Is a lower number better than a higher number? After calibration, does it matter?

There is a link in Post #2 (in this thread) to see the brochure. I would link to it, but I'm a newb and link restrictions are in place for the first five posts!

Thanks!

Hey guys, my samsung 6178 has a small geometry issue after all. It seems that from left to right there is a slight downward bow. Its very minimal but its uniform from top to bottom. Its most noticeable when your watching a wider aspect ratio movie and you can see the black bars bowing down. The bow starts at the very center and evenly curves up from left & right. I'd have to say the deviance is maybe 5 to 10mm max, but it is noticeable. Is correction of this type physical or in software, and any tips on correction would be appreciated.

Thank you!

Hello forum dwellers!
Just wanted to give you an update on the problem in post 8601. A Samsung tech came out today to take a look at the set. He checked the inside of the set to make sure the inside screen was not causing the problem but he couldn't find anything. He ended up changing the light engine which corrected the problem. Dan, the tech was very knowlegable and friendly. A very good experience. The whole process took about a hour and a half. It is nice to have a clear picture again! :D

Hi everyone. First of all, I really love my Sammy! :) I've had the 6168 since August and purchased through the TVA Power Buy. However, the tv has developed purple line of translucent tiny dots that have appeared on the left edge of my screen. It is about a quarter inch wide, starting at the bottom left corner and goes about 3/4 of the way up the screen, gradually shrinking in width till it disappears. It appears on all inputs and appeared within the last week. I've left the tv unplugged for 18 hrs (had to work so no biggie) no change.

I've called Samsung support and they suggested that my speakers might be interfering with the screen. I find that hard to believe as the speakers are shielded and both sit 14 inches from the sides of my tv.Plus, they never gave my CRT any problems and they were a lot closer to the tube! Only the left side is affected, so I figured that if it is the speaker it would affect both sides of the TV. I've moved the speaker about 6 feet away to try to prove/disprove the speaker theory given by Samsung tech support.

Has anyone ran into this problem? Any thoughts? Suggestions? Thanks! :D

In the HLRxx78W Series Brochure, the four x78w models have different Brightness, as follows:

50" - 900 (cd/m2)
56" - 700 (cd/m2)
61" - 600 (cd/m2)
71" - 500 (cd/m2)

What does this mean? Is a lower number better than a higher number? After calibration, does it matter?

There is a link in Post #2 (in this thread) to see the brochure. I would link to it, but I'm a newb and link restrictions are in place for the first five posts!

Thanks!

The higher the number the better in brightness and contrast. Just like when you buy an LCD Computer Monitor, the brightness is on there in the number. Anything over 450 is good. However the larger the TV, the lower the number, unless if the Bulb is much brighter. I have noticed that in all these screen sizes the bulb is the same brightness that Samsung uses. This is a standard bulb on all these TV's. Which is fine, but in reality the smaller the screen size of couse the brighter it will be, Less area to cover for the light. Vica versa, the larger the screen size to cover the less dense and brightness the light will be.

No matter what, after the calibration, the ##(cd/m2), doesnt matter anymore becuase your TV was calibrated for all your settings and inputs. Mine got brighter and looks so much better. DNIe also played a role in the brightness.

KEEP IN MIND: THE BRIGHTER THE PICTURE, THE BULB WILL BURN OUT FASTER.

Ozy311, they all have that issue. It has to do with the projection. This isn't an issue when using an HTPC or HD. It looks like this ) ( . It isn't great but at least its normal.

The higher the number the better in brightness and contrast. Just like when you buy an LCD Computer Monitor, the brightness is on there in the number. Anything over 450 is good. However the larger the TV, the lower the number, unless if the Bulb is much brighter. I have noticed that in all these screen sizes the bulb is the same brightness that Samsung uses. This is a standard bulb on all these TV's. Which is fine, but in reality the smaller the screen size of couse the brighter it will be, Less area to cover for the light. Vica versa, the larger the screen size to cover the less dense and brightness the light will be.

No matter what, after the calibration, the ##(cd/m2), doesnt matter anymore becuase your TV was calibrated for all your settings and inputs. Mine got brighter and looks so much better. DNIe also played a role in the brightness.

KEEP IN MIND: THE BRIGHTER THE PICTURE, THE BULB WILL BURN OUT FASTER.

The part about the bulb burning out does not make sense. All of those TV's use the same bulb. The decrease in cd/m2 is inversely related to screen size. The bulb runs at 100% (except in dynamic) all the time. It will burn out in a given # of hours/cycles regardless of which TV it's in.

Benlong, first most of those specs are debatable anyway. You also need to compare the lamp like was mentioned. I think the two larger sizes use a brighter bulb so it makes it difficult to compare. I guess you could say that even with a brighter bulb that the spec is still much lower than the 5078. Isn't contrast a more important spec?

Ozy311, they all have that issue. It has to do with the projection. This isn't an issue when using an HTPC or HD. It looks like this ) ( . It isn't great but at least its normal.

Actually i'm referring to it in the other direction. What you discribe is pincushion. Imagine a bowing like this ) but only in a horizontal postition. It notice it while using an HTPC in media center where it draws menus and straight lines.

Ozy311, do you have it on other inputs? I would guess its either the card or the way the HTPC was setup on the Sammy?

Ozy311, do you have it on other inputs? I would guess its either the card or the way the HTPC was setup on the Sammy?

Yes it is present on my HDMI input for my Denon 2910 DVD player also. Noticable there because when I watch content wider than 1.78:1, and the black bars appear, they are bent downward a hair.

If i enable the SM and view some of the grid test patterns, it is very spottable there also.

CyberScott, I'm glad that your set was fixed but it bothers me he opened the screen. There was no reason for that. There is nothing inside the screen to cause that. Also it sounds like the vertical stripe issue, was it? That's when there is a stripe about the size of duct tape or less on the left. You can still see the image through the stripe and its on all inputs. I just hope the screen was put back well.

Ozy311, have you tried adjusting the pic up in the SM? If that doesn't work you'd just end up with a new LE. I just had mine replaced and now I get the CC code along the top. It doesn't show all of the time so I don't know for sure if it is the new LE or the HD STB?

bcvp,
everything looks great so far. I had him use both the white and black test screns after all the work was completed to check for any smudges or screen abnormalities after all the work was done. As far as the veritcal strip, it did not run the full left side of the screen. It started out on the bottom left corner, about 3/4 of an inch wide, traveled upward, widening to about an inch then gradually thinning out about 10 inches from the upper left corner. It looked like an elongated triangle. It was see through and made up of little dots.

CyberScott, I'm glad that your set was fixed but it bothers me he opened the screen. There was no reason for that. There is nothing inside the screen to cause that. Also it sounds like the vertical stripe issue, was it? That's when there is a stripe about the size of duct tape or less on the left. You can still see the image through the stripe and its on all inputs. I just hope the screen was put back well.

Hey guys, my samsung 6178 has a small geometry issue after all. It seems that from left to right there is a slight downward bow. Its very minimal but its uniform from top to bottom. Its most noticeable when your watching a wider aspect ratio movie and you can see the black bars bowing down. The bow starts at the very center and evenly curves up from left & right. I'd have to say the deviance is maybe 5 to 10mm max, but it is noticeable. Is correction of this type physical or in software, and any tips on correction would be appreciated.

Thank you!

Hey Ozy311, I also have the same issue as well. When watching a DVD I have the same ) bow in a horizontal position but 16 X 9 content is fine. Also when I watch HD programming and commercials come on I get the )( effect at the area where the picture meets those 2 black side bars. I have posted this issue earlier and received a response that this was normal. Its very minor but still bothers me. I wish there was a fix for this. My 1st 5668 set didnt exhibit any of these issues...

Jae

Ozy311, have you tried adjusting the pic up in the SM? If that doesn't work you'd just end up with a new LE. I just had mine replaced and now I get the CC code along the top. It doesn't show all of the time so I don't know for sure if it is the new LE or the HD STB?

Do you have documentation on what does what in the SM so i dont screw something up? I've tried searching without avail

Honestly, I can't seem to even get into the SM. Every time I try, which isn't often all I end up doing is turning the set either on or off. lol. I know that going to and changing the SM is a huge risk and if you aren't familiar with this type of thing like a BIOS on a computer that people here don't recommend doing it. That said you really just need to know where this part of the SM is located and not mess with the whole SM. I would have thought it was near the alignments that you found but I guess not. I know people have a list and someone should be able to explain what number down it is or something so that it is easy to find without messing things up.

FW could add or fix things software related like the SM, UM, DNIe. It can't add another HDMI input or other hardware issue but there isn't really a limit as to what they could do. Its a matter of what they are willing to do. With the new models out so soon it is unlikely they will do much afa using resources on these sets though. I think people here were looking forward to some issues that could be addressed with a simple FW update.

And what exactly is "broken" with the current firmware? DNIe, IMO, is a red herring to a large degree. There are settings already adjustable within the SM to counter edge enhancement for those that feel it's an issue. Beyond that, thinking a newer version of software is by default an improvement for this hardware platform is flawed logic.

How do you know that newer firmware isn't simply being mated to updated hardware? That won't mean it automatically works with or is an improvement on older revision stuff.

I think people are speculating without considering or understanding the reasons why there are different revisions of firmware. Unless you are privy to the internal docs at Samsung, you're basically guessing.

And what exactly is "broken" with the current firmware? DNIe, IMO, is a red herring to a large degree. There are settings already adjustable within the SM to counter edge enhancement for those that feel it's an issue. Beyond that, thinking a newer version of software is by default an improvement for this hardware platform is flawed logic.

How do you know that newer firmware isn't simply being mated to updated hardware? That won't mean it automatically works with or is an improvement on older revision stuff.

I think people are speculating without considering or understanding the reasons why there are different revisions of firmware. Unless you are privy to the internal docs at Samsung, you're basically guessing.
There are a number of problems that Samsung could fix via firmware (if there was a way to update it, and I believe that there is a method through the service port). These include the dynamic range problem, missing discrete IR codes (TV for example), restoring the DNIe on/off functionality that was probably just deleted late in development to get the units out the door (evidence, the DNIe button on the remote). Plus firmware is key to the performance of these units ... I'm sure that processing algorithms are better tuned now than they were six months ago.