UCSB,
Since we have Bluray around the corner, I am curious about the HLR sets only accepting 1080i over the HDMI inputs.

Do you think it might be possible to upgrade the HDMI ports to the newer 1.3 spec and have the set accept 1080P or would we be looking at replacing the entire digital board to achieve this?

Also what happens if you send a 1080P signal over HDMI to the sets HDMI input, would it just convert to 1080i then to 1080P internally or would it not recognize it at all?
The HDMI inputs can not be upgraded. I wouldn't worry about 1080i vs 1080p input on HD DVD/Blu-ray. We will have to wait and see, but I really don't think that there is going to be a noticable difference.

I think it goes back to the feeling that people think they are missing something. The 1080i picture looks great on these sets. I don't see how a 1080p converted to 1080i and back to 1080p can look any worse?

I have reached the mountain top - all 9500 posts read in a few days. Buying a several thousand dollar TV motivates one...

It's funny to read back over these months and watch things develop. Funny to see someone post a pre-Katrina weather pic not knowing what was looming. Funny to read posts back in the mid thousands about gaming lag and saying out loud "Use the damn VGA fools!" and then Mike I believe finally blurted it out.

Will be posting a review of my 7178 in the parent section for anyone interested...

MEC2

I was just thinking there may be a way to squeeze more out of the HLR sets but it would probably not be that noticeable between 1080i/p.I read about the HDMI 1.3 spec coming out so I figured I would get other thoughts on the issue. This stuff is so cart before the wagon and vice versa it can make your head hurt :confused:

I am waiting on the HD DVD/ Bluray dust to settle and then I'll decide. Are there any reports on how the HLR 1080p look with HD DVD?

Had my light engine replaced yesterday morning to fix the left hand side band problem. The guy actually called me monday and wanted to come then but I was at work. Was already planning taking wednesday off so rescheduled it for then. I'm amazed at how easy it was. He was done in about 15 minutes or so. Replacement light engine came in a sealed samsung box. I watched him do it and it is literally a piece of cake. I asked if he's seen a lot of this problem, but he said he's seen a few but it doesn't look wide spread and that a light engine replacement always fixes it. Real nice guy. TV looks great.

Had my light engine replaced yesterday morning to fix the left hand side band problem. The guy actually called me monday and wanted to come then but I was at work. Was already planning taking wednesday off so rescheduled it for then. I'm amazed at how easy it was. He was done in about 15 minutes or so. Replacement light engine came in a sealed samsung box. I watched him do it and it is literally a piece of cake. I asked if he's seen a lot of this problem, but he said he's seen a few but it doesn't look wide spread and that a light engine replacement always fixes it. Real nice guy. TV looks great.
Mike -- Out of curiosity, did you notice whether the service guy made any adjustments or checks via the service menu after he exchanged the light engine?

Mike -- Out of curiosity, did you notice whether the service guy made any adjustments or checks via the service menu after he exchanged the light engine?

Yes, the verticle was off and he adjusted that. He also played with index value (i think thats what it was). When it was selected it put red green and blue at the bottom in a gradient and he adjusted until it was smoothed out. He went through a bunch of the menus and looked at stuff but those were the only things he changed.

Has Samsung ever published a firmware update (whether user or service tech installable) for the HLRxxx8W models?

Not yet, but let us know if you hear anything. Lol. We're all waiting patiently.

Had the same problem with my 5078 set where the vertical shadow appears on the left side of the screen. Called Samsung and they are very aware of the problem. The tech came out the next day and replaced the LE. He said that all the defective LEs are being sent to Samsung in New Jersey for analysis. I asked him if he'd seen this before and he said that yes in at least 4 units of 10 that he serviced.

My lamp had about 1400 hours with absolutely no problems.

I then asked him if there are any guarantees as to whether Samsung will replace the LE if this issue happens again soon after my warranty expires. He said he would hope so but not guaranteed. He said an option would be to wait until my warranty was about to expire, then by a 1 year extention for $250 - the price of a replacement lamp. I think I will probably do that.

My only regret is that I did not get the 5678 set. This is a great TV.

Had the same problem with my 5078 set where the vertical shadow appears on the left side of the screen. Called Samsung and they are very aware of the problem. The tech came out the next day and replaced the LE. He said that all the defective LEs are being sent to Samsung in New Jersey for analysis. I asked him if he'd seen this before and he said that yes in at least 4 units of 10 that he serviced.

My lamp had about 1400 hours with absolutely no problems.

I then asked him if there are any guarantees as to whether Samsung will replace the LE if this issue happens again soon after my warranty expires. He said he would hope so but not guaranteed. He said an option would be to wait until my warranty was about to expire, then by a 1 year extention for $250 - the price of a replacement lamp. I think I will probably do that.

My only regret is that I did not get the 5678 set. This is a great TV.

Don't know if it's accurate but the tech that replaced my LE due to the vertical left side shadow said that there would be a new 1 year warrantly on the LE and to save the service receipt as evidence.

It looks like there are no pedestal sets among the new models. Can anyone confirm this?

This has me looking for deals on the 5688. Costco recently had a solid price online, but now it's gone. Anyone know of a good spot to buy or see this model? I'm in Jacksonville, Fl.

Had the same problem with my 5078 set where the vertical shadow appears on the left side of the screen. Called Samsung and they are very aware of the problem. The tech came out the next day and replaced the LE. He said that all the defective LEs are being sent to Samsung in New Jersey for analysis. I asked him if he'd seen this before and he said that yes in at least 4 units of 10 that he serviced.

My lamp had about 1400 hours with absolutely no problems.

I then asked him if there are any guarantees as to whether Samsung will replace the LE if this issue happens again soon after my warranty expires. He said he would hope so but not guaranteed. He said an option would be to wait until my warranty was about to expire, then by a 1 year extention for $250 - the price of a replacement lamp. I think I will probably do that.

My only regret is that I did not get the 5678 set. This is a great TV.

You can add 4 years of warranty to your set for about the same price with a RepairMaster warranty.

It looks like there are no pedestal sets among the new models. Can anyone confirm this?

This has me looking for deals on the 5688. Costco recently had a solid price online, but now it's gone. Anyone know of a good spot to buy or see this model? I'm in Jacksonville, Fl.
They quit making the pedestal and you are right that the 5688w is the final one. If you put a search into google you'll see a few places which still have them. They had some in Fry's and Magnolia inside Best Buy in my area. They are pretty much being sold out so good luck on the search. It is a great TV and if you find one, you won't be disappointed.

I'm using the Toshiba HD-A1 and the 1080i looks fantastic. The only residue of interlacing is on some subtitles some of the time. The action scenes and quick pans look rock steady.

What was the content? Was the DVD i or p? I thought most content was i?

Who do you guys from north texas recommend for Samsung service?

I have a question, I've basically checked this thread a couple times a week since I bought my 5688w about six months ago. I haven't had any of the problems that pop up on here (smudges, dark vertical shadow) but I have noticed a slight screen-tilt (especially noticeable with screen-crawls on the bottom). I've read that it's very difficult to align that if you don't know what you're doing.

The only other issue I have a question about is the "light" shadow. i.e., when watching a dark scene in a completely dark room, the left 10% of the screen or so is slightly lighter. If the lights in the room are on at all, you can't see it.

Do you think this is worth calling Samsung about?

SV

What was the content? Was the DVD i or p? I thought most content was i?

Good question. The dvds I referenced were encoded 480p. I watched them upscaled to 1080i from the player.

The Toshiba can output over HDMI a choice of 480i/p, 720p, and 1080i. The upscaling is fantastic. I had always thought that THE FIFTH ELEMENT looked good on my regular dvd player (Pioneer DV-373, over component), but there is a huge improvement on the Toshiba, mostly with regard to eliminating EE ringing. There is a much improved "film-like" quality. Really!

I'll try to find some old 480i material to veiw at some point, but right now I want to rewatch some of my favorites upconverted on the Tosh.

I would call them and let them explain the issue and the fix, if there is one. I've been looking at my ) ( pincushion and I think it is worse with my second LE than the original? I'm now finding the image on the edge is ) ( as well, which wasn't the case before. In other words the walls or similar image on the edge are like ) ( instead of | |. I also have the white dots on a dark scene in a dark room sometimes, well ok, only on 24. lol.

In that case I think it would've been better to keep it at 480p? Now you converted it from 480p to 1080i to 1080p, vs. 480p to 1080p. That would be interesting to see the difference. It also goes back to specs vs. what your eye interprets.

In that case I think it would've been better to keep it at 480p? Now you converted it from 480p to 1080i to 1080p, vs. 480p to 1080p. That would be interesting to see the difference. It also goes back to specs vs. what your eye interprets.

A casual perusal through the video modes shows subtle improvement when viewed in 1080i. The picture seems smoother yet contains more detail. Is it the Toshiba? Is it the choice of source material? Is it a subjective bias? Hard to guess, but I think all statements may be correct.

I'm sure I'm not the only AVS reader who lets his personal tastes on display presentation overshadow what might be considered technically correct. The Samsung was superbly calibrated yet I have tweaked the brightness/contrast settings a notch or two to what is preferable to me. This 1080i thing may well be a personal bias too, or maybe just a case of the stubborns.

All I can tell you is that I am exceptionally pleased with the performance of the Toshiba with the Samsung (with one caveat - the HDMI output has to be calibrated correctly to avoid the "crushed blacks" I've seen on store displays). Now if it were just region-free and displayed PAL material!!!

Hi I have been an owner HLR 6768 owner since last September and have really loved my set and used to spend every day looking through this forum. I have been away for a while and just this weekend started to notice a dark strip about three inches wide up and down the left side of the screen. I can still see the picture it is just very dark and very annoying when the screen is light.

Has anyone had this problem and can it be adjusted out? I tried searching but many many unrelated hits. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Jeff

I've read about other people having this problem and a change out of the light engine fixed it. So far I haven't seen this with my 6168 that I've had since September also.

A LE replacement fixes it but keep in mind they are refurbs. Very few people had a problem after a LE, but it looks like I'm now one of them. I've put off another service call. I keep meaning to call them but I'm waiting to see if it gets any worse.

Hi I have been an owner HLR 6768 owner since last September and have really loved my set and used to spend every day looking through this forum. I have been away for a while and just this weekend started to notice a dark strip about three inches wide up and down the left side of the screen. I can still see the picture it is just very dark and very annoying when the screen is light.

Has anyone had this problem and can it be adjusted out? I tried searching but many many unrelated hits. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Jeff

Quite a few people here have. I just recently had my LE replaced. You can't 'adjust' it out. Its a defect. You're tv is still under warrenty so use it. I called Samsung on a sunday morning and the local repair place called me monday afternoon. I couldn't do it till wednesday though, but still, less than 24 hour turn around time is really good.

I got mine fixed the next day too. No one is close to Samsung customer service IMO.

A casual perusal through the video modes shows subtle improvement when viewed in 1080i. The picture seems smoother yet contains more detail. Is it the Toshiba? Is it the choice of source material? Is it a subjective bias? Hard to guess, but I think all statements may be correct.

I'm sure I'm not the only AVS reader who lets his personal tastes on display presentation overshadow what might be considered technically correct. The Samsung was superbly calibrated yet I have tweaked the brightness/contrast settings a notch or two to what is preferable to me. This 1080i thing may well be a personal bias too, or maybe just a case of the stubborns.

I'm of the same opinion. I have the 5678, with a Denon 3910, and you said my opinion to the T. 1080i a little more detailed, 480/720P a little softer and less detail on some DVDs. The DVD makes a difference though. Any Star Wars DVD is a good test, but (I can't remember what movie) I found on another DVD that I couldn't tell much of a difference. I did a test because of reading that the opposite would be true: "double upscaling" er whatever you want to call it, would cause a worse picture. My 3910 doesn't output a 480i signal through DVI, so that may have something to do with it over here.

hi i have a samsung hlr5078wx 1080p dlp and i have one question. there a feature thats says DNIe Demo on and off..i see it looks better with DNIe off, now how do i tyurn off the DNIe???..PLease help Thanks

hi i have a samsung hlr5078wx 1080p dlp and i have one question. there a feature thats says DNIe Demo on and off..i see it looks better with DNIe off, now how do i tyurn off the DNIe???..PLease help Thanks

It's hard to tell anything with the useless DNIe Demo feature... but some users agree that defeating DNIe is a good thing (although a subset of those insist that you shouldn't unless you pay $300+ for ISF calibration first).

It can only be done in the service menu, and there are several posts in the 318 pages of this thread explaining how to do it (or part of it, or for a subset of resolutions cross scan rates, or whatever). Or you can just refuse to read through the chatter and simply reference the ZDNET review:

http://reviews-zdnet.com.com/Samsung_HL_R6768W/4864-6484_16-31335745.html?ctype=msgid&messageSiteID=7&messageID=1573142&cval=1573142&tag=txt

Whether you feel comfortable in the service menu is another issue, and no doubt dozens of zealots here will shout that you shouldn't even consider going there unless you have a PhD from M.I.T. Frankly, it's actually straightforward, particularly if you record original settings first. Good luck.

I think we were just through this, but only the DNIe settings have a default setting. Anything else will not be reset if you make changes by mistake or don't take the proper precaution of recording your changes. If the picture is bad from making the wrong changes and you can't get it set back, your warranty will be void. Good luck. lol.

I think we were just through this, but only the DNIe settings have a default setting. Anything else will not be reset if you make changes by mistake or don't take the proper precaution of recording your changes. If the picture is bad from making the wrong changes and you can't get it set back, your warranty will be void. Good luck. lol.



lol well i'll just forget about it

Well, its official. My Sammy is gone... after two light engines, a tuner unit, and a processor, Samsung recalled my set under a "Lemon Clause". I am now free to pick out any replacement set (Here we go again)...... I still cannot believe how many people here have had light engines replaced. Every time mine was ordered, they were on backorder. Hmmmmm.. Hope you all have better luck than I did... I think I might try going to the "dark side" (Sony). I really hate Sony but they have the best ratings ever place I look.

OMG. Dude, get the new LED model. Tell them you'll sue under the lemon or kiwi law or something. Are they familiar with that law? lol. No color wheel, probably no or a smaller fan since there isn't a lamp, clearer picture better color, DNIe off I think, HDMI2, heck check out the thread here somewhere. The Sony doesn't have 1080 PC input right? I wouldn't get anything else.

I have a couple of questions about my HL-R5078W.

I know that the TV does not pass through 5.1. When I use the Comcast calibration show (On INHD Saturday mornings), and test the audio, I do get the three front channels, the sub woofer and one rear channel (the same signal comes over both rear speakers). When the test comes through for the rear speakers, both respond when it should be just one. This isn't that bad, I can still enjoy some type of surround sound, but, what I want to know is:
What type of "surround" am I listening to?

When I hook up my cable wire directly to the cable coaxial input, I only get a few channels. Shouldn't I get more than one or two? What setting do I use in the user menu(what type of cable do I have)? I have Comcast.

Does anyone know the factory sub-brightness setting?
Is this setting important?
Does it just move the effective midpiont of the brightness in the user menu?

Thanks.

You can add 4 years of warranty to your set for about the same price with a RepairMaster warranty.

How can I do this a year after I buy the set??

I have a couple of questions about my HL-R5078W.

I know that the TV does not pass through 5.1. When I use the Comcast calibration show (On INHD Saturday mornings), and test the audio, I do get the three front channels, the sub woofer and one rear channel (the same signal comes over both rear speakers). When the test comes through for the rear speakers, both respond when it should be just one. This isn't that bad, I can still enjoy some type of surround sound, but, what I want to know is:
What type of "surround" am I listening to?

When I hook up my cable wire directly to the cable coaxial input, I only get a few channels. Shouldn't I get more than one or two? What setting do I use in the user menu(what type of cable do I have)? I have Comcast.

Does anyone know the factory sub-brightness setting?
Is this setting important?
Does it just move the effective midpiont of the brightness in the user menu?

Thanks.

I'll give this a shot for you. The subbrightness should be 235 according to the service manual. My default was 255. I'm not sure where it is now. I had my set ISFed last week and the subbrightness is now set so that 50 in the user menu is the correct setting. For my DVD player, the setting used to be 37 in the user manual so I think you're correct in assuming that the subbrightness in the SM moves the midpoint in the user menu. The setting is very important coupled with the subcontrast.

Regarding your audio, what kind of STB is the comcast box and what kind of receiver do you have? Generally, assuming your receiver decodes DD, the comcast box should be set to pass-through so the receiver does all the heavy lifting. Not all of the programs coming through the comcast box have a DD5.1 stream. It may mostly be 2.0 which means your receiver will decode it to stereo unless you are using Dolby Pro-logic or some other surround sound matrix processor designed to take stereo and make it surround. This is likely what's happening when your receiver gets the signal from the TV.

I hope that's helpful

Bill

How can I do this a year after I buy the set??

You are required to have at least 90 days of the original manufacturer warranty remaining when you purchase/register your RepairMaster warranty. Since the Samsung warranty is 1 year, you can buy an extended warranty during the first 9 months of ownership.

I'll give this a shot for you. The subbrightness should be 235 according to the service manual. My default was 255. I'm not sure where it is now. I had my set ISFed last week and the subbrightness is now set so that 50 in the user menu is the correct setting. For my DVD player, the setting used to be 37 in the user manual so I think you're correct in assuming that the subbrightness in the SM moves the midpoint in the user menu. The setting is very important coupled with the subcontrast.

Regarding your audio, what kind of STB is the comcast box and what kind of receiver do you have? Generally, assuming your receiver decodes DD, the comcast box should be set to pass-through so the receiver does all the heavy lifting. Not all of the programs coming through the comcast box have a DD5.1 stream. It may mostly be 2.0 which means your receiver will decode it to stereo unless you are using Dolby Pro-logic or some other surround sound matrix processor designed to take stereo and make it surround. This is likely what's happening when your receiver gets the signal from the TV.

I hope that's helpful

Bill


For the sub-brightness, I lost the paper that I had the factory settings for sub-brightness on. I believe that if I go into the SM, and change the input (from 1080i to 720p) for a given input source (Component) I will get the original setting.
I used a 1080i feed over Component 2 for my tinkering. The settings need to be adjusted for each input type (1080i, 720p, etc.) in each input source (HDMI1. Component 1, etc.), correct?

For the sound, I send the audio from my Comcast / Moto 3412 to the HL-R5078W, then to my JVC RX-6008V. This is to avoid A/V synch problems. I get some kind of surround, I just don't know what type. I know almost nothing about surround sound, so any help would be great.
Thanks.

The settings need to be adjusted for each input type (1080i, 720p, etc.) in each input source (HDMI1. Component 1, etc.), correct? .

I think you only need to do it for each input source, not type.

For the sound, I send the audio from my Comcast / Moto 3412 to the HL-R5078W, then to my JVC RX-6008V. This is to avoid A/V synch problems. I get some kind of surround, I just don't know what type. I know almost nothing about surround sound, so any help would be great.
Thanks.

I'm not familiar with the JVC but you should be able to turn surround sound and/or DSP on and off. You should also have a choice of modes (e.g. DTS, DD, ProLogic). Check the manual for how to toggle through all these. If you aren't feeding the JVC from the motorola box, then you need to pick a surround mode that takes the stereo signal from the Sammy and converts it to 5.1. ProLogic should do this if it's in your receiver. Also, when you're in surround sound mode, ensure that all your speakers work correctly using the test tones. Rear left and rear right should not be combined. Good luck.

does anyone have any advice on menu setup for my tv here is mine for hd over the air and hdsatellite ,its on movie mode with contrast at 70 brightness at 55 sharpness at 0 and color at 55 and for dvd playback every things the same except color is set at 50 how does that sound should anything be changed to further improve the picture quality.

I'm of the same opinion. I have the 5678, with a Denon 3910, and you said my opinion to the T. 1080i a little more detailed, 480/720P a little softer and less detail on some DVDs. The DVD makes a difference though. Any Star Wars DVD is a good test, but (I can't remember what movie) I found on another DVD that I couldn't tell much of a difference. I did a test because of reading that the opposite would be true: "double upscaling" er whatever you want to call it, would cause a worse picture. My 3910 doesn't output a 480i signal through DVI, so that may have something to do with it over here.

Good catch on the software, RoosterD. After my happiness with the newer, better encoded dvds, I just threw in an old 480i Indian move. Yeech! It looks terrible upconverted to 1080i. I had to throw in MATRIX REVOLUTIONS to convince myself that I hadn't somehow broken the player!

There are a lot of variables and qualifiers that can be added here, but newer software like KING KONG (2005), BATMAN BEGINS and BRIDE AND PREJUDICE look fantastic upconverted on the Toshiba. Some older titles look the same or a little worse. I believe the encoding has a lot to do with it.

My 6168 stopped accepting 1920 X 1080 @ 60Hz from my computer through the VGA port all of a sudden. It used to display it just fine but now it is registering as it only receiving 1280 X 1024 @ 60Hz!?!? Very strange!?!

My computer is outputting 1920 X 1080 @ 60Hz and the display shows up on the screen, but it’s only displaying 1280 X 1024 pixels of the 1920 X 1080 signal that it is receiving. If I move my cursor to the left or right edge of the screen then the display will scroll left or right to show the additional resolution that is transmitted to the TV but it just won’t display the whole 1920 X 1080 at once.

Does anybody have any ideas on what is going on here?

I have tried turning the set on and off and have also unplugged it for awhile to see if it would reset itself or something.

Any ideas? :confused:

Thanks! :)

My 6168 stopped accepting 1920 X 1080 @ 60Hz from my computer through the VGA port all of a sudden. It used to display it just fine but now it is registering as it only receiving 1280 X 1080 @ 60Hz!?!? Very strange!?!

My computer is outputting 1920 X 1080 @ 60Hz and the display shows up on the screen, but it’s only displaying 1280 X 1080 pixels of the 1920 X 1080 signal that it is receiving. If I move my cursor to the left or right edge of the screen then the display will scroll left or right to show the additional resolution that is transmitted to the TV but it just won’t display the whole 1920 X 1080 at once.

Does anybody have any ideas on what is going on here?

I have tried turning the set on and off and have also unplugged it for awhile to see if it would reset itself or something.

Any ideas? :confused:

Thanks! :)



Hmmmph. Nevermind I guess. I just powered it down and repowered it again (3rd time I've done this) and this time it worked! I don't know what that was all about but now its working. I hope it doesn't do it again.

That could still be be from a problem with the PC? You should confirm the display settings in the display properties and the hz. in advanced. I've had problems with the PC switching which monitor is the primary when using two.

In other words I'm not so sure its the set's fault and turning it on and off is not recommended. If you are sure the Sammy is set correctly I'd bet the issue is with the PC somewhere.

Bridgeboy,

The video driver went into a "virtual desktop" mode, where it is displaying a 1920x1080 pixel desktop mapped onto a 1280 x 1024 display. That is what happened ... but as to why the PC was suddenly convinced that the display couldn't handle 1920 x 1080, I can only guess that the DCC info got corrupted somehow.

If it happens again, you may be able to recover by changing your driver settings from Plug'n'Play monitor to a "Do what I tell you" setting with a video utility like Powerstrip, or do the research on how to create a custom .inf file for your display.

Paul

Bridgeboy,

The video driver went into a "virtual desktop" mode, where it is displaying a 1920x1080 pixel desktop mapped onto a 1280 x 1024 display. That is what happened ... but as to why the PC was suddenly convinced that the display couldn't handle 1920 x 1080, I can only guess that the DCC info got corrupted somehow.

If it happens again, you may be able to recover by changing your driver settings from Plug'n'Play monitor to a "Do what I tell you" setting with a video utility like Powerstrip, or do the research on how to create a custom .inf file for your display.

Paul

Thanks for the advice......The problem just came back again.

I neglected to mention before that I do have a new element in the mix (big oversight, I know). I have an electronic video switch now so I can switch between my Xbox 360 VGA cable and my PC VGA cable. Here is the box I have installed; it seems to be the culprit for whatever reason: (it’s the one at the top, the SE-15V-2-2C1U)

http://www.vpi.us/vidsw-pc.html

I’ll see if I can play around with driver settings as you recommended.

Thanks!

I wouldn't play with the driver. I'd try the settings I suggested first. The driver should be fine if it worked before. The PC is not getting the signal from the set and now it looks like its due to the switcher. Like I said my set wouldn't always be secondary or primary in dual monitor mode. The set should work fine after you change the display settings until the next time you restart. There might be different switchers that might handle the signal better? It doesn't always happen to me but after making the changes it works fine.

I wouldn't play with the driver. I'd try the settings I suggested first. The driver should be fine if it worked before. The PC is not getting the signal from the set and now it looks like its due to the switcher. Like I said my set wouldn't always be secondary or primary in dual monitor mode. The set should work fine after you change the display settings until the next time you restart. There might be different switchers that might handle the signal better? It doesn't always happen to me but after making the changes it works fine.

I really don’t understand what you are trying to say. You said you thought it was the PC’s fault. I agree to an extent, it’s a combination of the switcher interfering with the PC’s detection of the set for some reason. Therefore, if it’s the PC’s fault would I not need to adjust settings with the PC in an attempt to correct the problem? (I.E. adjust settings with the video card driver).

Just to reiterate, and also provide more information than I have before, (new stuff I’ve experienced so far through experimentation and such) this is what I have and what is happening:

I have a single monitor attached to the system: my HL-R6168W.

My video card is an ATI x850XT PCIe. I am using the ATI Catalyst 6.3 drivers with CCC (Catalyst Control Center).

If I bypass the VGA switcher and hook directly to the TV and boot the PC everything detects fine and everything displays fine at 1920 X 1080 @ 60Hz.. I can leave the TV on the whole time…I agree it is a PC/video card/video driver thing and rebooting the TV is irrelevant. If I boot directly to the TV and everything is fine, and then I disconnect from the TV and connect the VGA cables through the switcher (without rebooting anything) everything still remains fine. In other words, this proves that the switcher can pass the 1920 X 1080 @ 60 Hz signal just fine….with no noticeable video degradation I might add.

However, if I now reboot the PC while connected to the TV through the VGA switcher, you will see the bios splash screens and the Windows loading screens but then it will go blank and say “Not Supported Mode” or it will have a screwy display with the panning screen (1280 X 1024), or a display that is not matched to the screen…..like a 4:3 ratio even though it says it is displaying 1920 X 1080 both in the video driver software as well as being reported by the HDTV…..all depending on what I have screwed with so far in the CCC video driver software…which I am still playing with but have not found anything that has consistently worked once I reboot the PC while connected to the VGA switcher.

I am having a really tough time with this. I am doing things in the CCC (video driver software) which would appear on the surface to be the thing to do (such as “forcing” 1920 X 1080 @ 60 and disabling auto detection of the display by disabling EDID (Extended Display Identification Data) but I am not experiencing the intended results after rebooting the PC.

Keep in mind that I have tried a cheaper VGA switcher but it severely degraded the high resolution 1920 X 1080 signal….with ghosting effects. I purchased this more expensive switcher I have now because of its advertisement of being capable to passing resolution of up to 1900 X 1200 without any video degradation. It is holding true to this claim quite well, but it is screwing with this detection problem.

I really appreciate any help that any one has to offer here! Thanks! :)

is it me or does over the air hd look better than dish networks hd

I really don’t understand what you are trying to say. You said you thought it was the PC’s fault. I agree to an extent, it’s a combination of the switcher interfering with the PC’s detection of the set for some reason. Therefore, if it’s the PC’s fault would I not need to adjust settings with the PC in an attempt to correct the problem? (I.E. adjust settings with the video card driver).

Just to reiterate, and also provide more information than I have before, (new stuff I’ve experienced so far through experimentation and such) this is what I have and what is happening:

I have a single monitor attached to the system: my HL-R6168W.

My video card is an ATI x850XT PCIe. I am using the ATI Catalyst 6.3 drivers with CCC (Catalyst Control Center).

If I bypass the VGA switcher and hook directly to the TV and boot the PC everything detects fine and everything displays fine at 1920 X 1080 @ 60Hz.. I can leave the TV on the whole time…I agree it is a PC/video card/video driver thing and rebooting the TV is irrelevant. If I boot directly to the TV and everything is fine, and then I disconnect from the TV and connect the VGA cables through the switcher (without rebooting anything) everything still remains fine. In other words, this proves that the switcher can pass the 1920 X 1080 @ 60 Hz signal just fine….with no noticeable video degradation I might add.

However, if I now reboot the PC while connected to the TV through the VGA switcher, you will see the bios splash screens and the Windows loading screens but then it will go blank and say “Not Supported Mode” or it will have a screwy display with the panning screen (1280 X 1024), or a display that is not matched to the screen…..like a 4:3 ratio even though it says it is displaying 1920 X 1080 both in the video driver software as well as being reported by the HDTV…..all depending on what I have screwed with so far in the CCC video driver software…which I am still playing with but have not found anything that has consistently worked once I reboot the PC while connected to the VGA switcher.

I am having a really tough time with this. I am doing things in the CCC (video driver software) which would appear on the surface to be the thing to do (such as “forcing” 1920 X 1080 @ 60 and disabling auto detection of the display by disabling EDID (Extended Display Identification Data) but I am not experiencing the intended results after rebooting the PC.

Keep in mind that I have tried a cheaper VGA switcher but it severely degraded the high resolution 1920 X 1080 signal….with ghosting effects. I purchased this more expensive switcher I have now because of its advertisement of being capable to passing resolution of up to 1900 X 1200 without any video degradation. It is holding true to this claim quite well, but it is screwing with this detection problem.

I really appreciate any help that any one has to offer here! Thanks! :)

My guess of what is happening is that not all of the pins are being switched. If you have a continuity checker or an ohm meter you can check. Make sure that you have 0 resistance on every pin through the switcher.

I guess I combined different explanations for it. My bad. lol. The issue is the PC not seeing the switcher when it reboots. That is when it configures everything, not after. It looks like you will have to manually set the display each time it reboots when connected to the switcher, which is what I tried to say. I mentioned how I have had to do that sometimes. Once you set it, it will be fine until you restart or shutdown.

The PC thinks the switcher is the set when Windows starts. I don't know if there is another switcher to try that claims to work? One other option, which in this case is unlikely, is to try another VGA cable, either from the PC to the switcher or the switcher to the set. If that works at all, when you boot up, then I guess its the cable. That would mean the set isn't getting the signal, which it has when you do it manually so that option probably won't work.

Like I said, don't touch the driver. The driver, the video card, the PC and the set is fine. It's the switcher messing things up.

Once you set the display it should be fine. This is how I have mine set. when going through my switcher it doesn't get the EDID info so I had to manually set everything up in the display settings for my Nvidia card. I set everything so It would fill the screen at 1920x1080P. Once it is set, I can turn the pC on with nothing connected and it remembers my settings. All I would have to do is connect a vga cable or change the switch to my PC input and I have a 1920x1080P60hz picture on my 6168. My other PCs will remember the settings also for another set I have. If windows doesn't remember your settings then something is not set right in Windows.

Well one of the VGA cables is missing a pin......out of the 3-rows of 5-pins...the second row is missing the 4th pin (or the 2nd pin depending on how you look at it). I am of the understanding, however, that this missing pin is irrelevent....as these cables are sold like that all the time.....that an SVGA signal only uses like 4 or 5 of the 15-pins anyway......(or only some portion of the 15-pins...I can't remember how many)....

You know that might be it? There are VGA cables that work and monitor extension cables that mostly don't. Also, inexpensive VGA cables are more likely to work than expensive ones. The catch is I think they either work or don't. Since they have worked it is definitely the switcher, although using the wrong cable might not help things.

I have similar problems with Windoze XP Pro/SP2, ATI Radeon 9800 Pro, ATI CCC 1.2.2243.38605 (all connected with 15-pin VGA cables and proven continuity -- no intermediate switchers or other components -- no missing pins -- just video card to cable to TV).

Launching ATI CCC sometimes identifies Samsung 1920x1080, sometimes just a generic display. It's a cr*p shoot.

Here's my recipe for guaranteed results:

1. Launch ATI CCC. Why does this take 30 seconds to launch with 3.0+ GHz CPU and 2 GB RAM? Everything else launches in < 3 seconds. What is ATI trying to prove? Never mind. Back on topic.

2. Extend Main onto Monitor.

3. Detect Displays. This sometimes causes Sammy to salute, but not always. Who knows? Between ATI, MS, and Samsung, there are at least 8 ways for this to fail. Obviously, nobody ever bothered to test this cr*p.

4. Select Display 2. Sammy may or may not have saluted. See above comment.

5. Set
Desktop Area: [640x480] (or something else that you don't want)
Color Quality: [High (32-bit)
Refresh Rate: [60 Hz]

If you don't set (this step, #5) and reset (next step, #6) the desktop area, then about half the time you'll wind up with a panned display or a display with wrong aspect ratio... which dutifully reports itself as 1920x1080 but is obviously deluded.

6. Then set
Desktop Area: [1920x1080].

7. Now everything should work OK. Swap displays or whatever else you normally do.

Before you defend these pr*cks, I realize that nobody has stepped up to the task of testing all operating systems cross all video cards cross all video drivers cross all televisions... which is why we're all alpha testers (I won't even dignify the cr*p that MS and the video card sharks and the TV snake oil salesmen hype as "beta").

To summarize, if you force a random resolution down the collective throats of this collection of software drivel, and then if you force what you want, then (In My Humble Experience) you'll usually get what you want. If you reboot your PC or TV between sessions, then who knows what you'll get. There appears to be no notion of reliable state saved in this crummy scenario.

Where are the software heroes when you need them?

I am using my computer hooked up thru the vga input of my sammy 5078 and regardless of what screen resolution I use, I get black bars on all sides of the screen, like 4 inches all around, any ideas why this is happening? I am using an NVIDIA 6200 256mb, agp video card, thanks

by the way, I just got my sammy and I absolutely LOVE it!!!!!!!!, I even get HD from my old cable company, don't know how but I love it....HD looks absolutely incredible, I can't wait to get my HD DVD player, but this TV rocks....anyone thinking about getting a 78 series, go for it, you won't regret it

XBOX 360 Set up help please:

My XBOX 360 and VGA cables to hook up my HLR 6178 will arrive Friday. I've got my Samsung manual in front of me. Is it the same as hooking up a PC? What are the steps?

0) hook up the VGA cable to the HLR
1) Set the XBOX to output 720P
2) do I need to use the Auto Ajust feature on the HLR (page 133 PC set up)
3) do I have to change the picture size from 4:3 to Wide PC?
4) If I view the resolution from the HLR set up menu -> PC -> Resolution what should I see?

I have an external receiver set up for optical out from the XBOX

XBOX 360 Set up help please:

My XBOX 360 and VGA cables to hook up my HLR 6178 will arrive Friday. I've got my Samsung manual in front of me. Is it the same as hooking up a PC? What are the steps?

0) hook up the VGA cable to the HLR
1) Set the XBOX to output 720P
2) do I need to use the Auto Ajust feature on the HLR (page 133 PC set up)
3) do I have to change the picture size from 4:3 to Wide PC?
4) If I view the resolution from the HLR set up menu -> PC -> Resolution what should I see?

I have an external receiver set up for optical out from the XBOX

0) Yes
1) No, you will pick a specific resolution when using a VGA cale...its is different than the composite cables. You want to choose 1280 X 720 which is the native resolution of the Xbox 360. that way there will be no conversion/scaling taking place within the Xbox 360.
2) Sure, start with that, but then you will need to manually adjust as well.
3) Yep. then use the controls below the Wide PC option to fine tune the size of the screen and center it. With mine I get teh left and right edges of teh screen to fit perfectly and then I am left with about a say 3/8" black bar at bottom and top. If I get rid of the top and bottom black bars then I would be loosing some left and right information to overscan.
4) 1280 X 720 @ 60Hz.

Milos47, I feel your pain. lol.

Once the Sammy is set correctly for PC input the set should remember the settings. If there is a problem its with the PC, not the set.

Garibay_2004, you need to adjust the set to center the PC image and have it fill the screen.

The “left side stripe” has just started to appear on my 6168. At this time it starts about 6 inches from the top and is about ½ inch wide at its widest point. It looks almost identical to the stripe in post #9359 by sdv5. The TV was in the first Power Buy shipment and has 3032 hrs. on it. Since I know a light engine replacement will fix it (at least temporarily) I may wait to get it serviced. I would like to hear that Samsung knows what in the light engine is causing the problem and that the problem has been corrected.

No one here has gotten any answers from Samsung or any tech. It is frustrating but regardless of the cause you'll still need a new LE. I think the LEs are refurbs and have been tested but a few people here including myself have had problems with the second LE too. Its annoying but at least their service is excellent.

I just got my LE replaced by an expert technician down here. He has already sent one in to Samsung headquarters to get looked at. He then said that he will put me on his list of people that have the LE problem, because he realizes that the LE replacement is most likely a temporary fix.

Following the repair, I asked if he could lower my gamma. He stated that the gamma setting of 2 is actually pretty good, but then he went into to the service menu with his video calibration patterns and re-tuned the brightness, contrast, sharpness, tint, hue and different colors as well as the overscan and a few other patterns.

The difference was amazing. I now have my TV just set to standard for HDTV, and fine tuned my Oppo via Avia. Previously my blacks were crushing and making blocks in real dark scenes like Zathura and could not be fixed via Oppo's or Samsung's video settings....now the black levels are perfect as is everything else! On top of that he gave me some Samsung TV screen cleaner.

I'm on the phone with Samsung right now, and they are telling me that my HL-R5678W will accept a 1080P signal through HDMI if the DVD player or whatever is sending a 1080P signal and the unit is HDCP compliant.

Can anyone confirm this? I've read through this thread for months now, and don't remember reading this anywhere.

I'm on the phone with Samsung right now, and they are telling me that my HL-R5678W will accept a 1080P signal through HDMI if the DVD player or whatever is sending a 1080P signal and the unit is HDCP compliant.

Can anyone confirm this? I've read through this thread for months now, and don't remember reading this anywhere.

I have always been of the understanding that the only port that can accept a true 1080P signal is the VGA port....and that's it. I can't confirm it other than what has always been talked about on these forums ever since I bought mine last September.

I have always been of the understanding that the only port that can accept a true 1080P signal is the VGA port....and that's it. I can't confirm it other than what has always been talked about on these forums ever since I bought mine last September.

That's what I remember reading as well. The tech showed me on the website:
Samsung Cinema Smooth™ 1080p Gen-6 HD Light Engine
- Full HD 1920 x 1080p digital format converter
for all inputs

That's probably just for converting below 1080P to 1080P right?

That's what I remember reading as well. The tech showed me on the website:
Samsung Cinema Smooth™ 1080p Gen-6 HD Light Engine
- Full HD 1920 x 1080p digital format converter
for all inputs

That's probably just for converting below 1080P to 1080P right?

That would be my guess. The set up-converts all signals to 1080P. But for some reason if you try to pass a 1080P signal through any port other than the VGA port…..it doesn’t work? …hmmm….I actually don’t know happens other than I read you can’t do it….lol….

i get no signal when i connect hdmi. At first it worked fine but since i had to unplug it then plug it back, now i get no signal. Im currently using component.Can i get some help?

I have similar problems with Windoze XP Pro/SP2, ATI Radeon 9800 Pro, ATI CCC 1.2.2243.38605 (all connected with 15-pin VGA cables and proven continuity -- no intermediate switchers or other components -- no missing pins -- just video card to cable to TV).

Launching ATI CCC sometimes identifies Samsung 1920x1080, sometimes just a generic display. It's a cr*p shoot.

Here's my recipe for guaranteed results:

1. Launch ATI CCC. Why does this take 30 seconds to launch with 3.0+ GHz CPU and 2 GB RAM? Everything else launches in < 3 seconds. What is ATI trying to prove? Never mind. Back on topic.

2. Extend Main onto Monitor.

3. Detect Displays. This sometimes causes Sammy to salute, but not always. Who knows? Between ATI, MS, and Samsung, there are at least 8 ways for this to fail. Obviously, nobody ever bothered to test this cr*p.

4. Select Display 2. Sammy may or may not have saluted. See above comment.

5. Set
Desktop Area: [640x480] (or something else that you don't want)
Color Quality: [High (32-bit)
Refresh Rate: [60 Hz]

If you don't set (this step, #5) and reset (next step, #6) the desktop area, then about half the time you'll wind up with a panned display or a display with wrong aspect ratio... which dutifully reports itself as 1920x1080 but is obviously deluded.

6. Then set
Desktop Area: [1920x1080].

7. Now everything should work OK. Swap displays or whatever else you normally do.

Before you defend these pr*cks, I realize that nobody has stepped up to the task of testing all operating systems cross all video cards cross all video drivers cross all televisions... which is why we're all alpha testers (I won't even dignify the cr*p that MS and the video card sharks and the TV snake oil salesmen hype as "beta").

To summarize, if you force a random resolution down the collective throats of this collection of software drivel, and then if you force what you want, then (In My Humble Experience) you'll usually get what you want. If you reboot your PC or TV between sessions, then who knows what you'll get. There appears to be no notion of reliable state saved in this crummy scenario.

Where are the software heroes when you need them?

You never know with the configurations exactly how it is going to work, I have my 5688W hooked into my PC using the ATI Radeon Pro 9800 and not had any issues with the display using MMC 9.13 and the 6.3 driver set.

Therocksays2320, I think you should be more specific but if I was going to assume what you meant I would say you had connected a DVD player and it worked but since you had to disconnect it now you're having a problem?

I forget how that works but thinking off the top of my head, I think if the DVD player was off and disconnected from the set and the set was off and unplugged to start I would then plug in the set and turn it on. Don't unplug the set if the fan is still running and wait a minute before you plug it back in and turn it on. After the set is on I would go through all of the inputs. Then with the DVD player off I would connect it to the set and then turn the DVD player on. Go through the inputs again and see if the set grabs it. I think that worked for my friend's VCR on his 5078. I have a 5678.

I truly hope that the new LE will fix all the problems with your set. No matter what, you do need a new LE. As far as the screen goes, even though I reported a 1/2 inch deviation, the picture is still sharp and the pincushion effect is not that noticable. You really need to have a straight edge to see it. You might want to perform the same test I did. If your screen has more than a 1/2 inch deviation at center, then that could very well be part of the problem.

I am thinking that since the picture on my set is in focus even with the deviation, that this may be the way the screens are designed. Just a guess. Anyway, best of luck. Be sure to report back after May 1st. :)

Well the tech rescheduled and came on Tuesday. He brought the LE and it apparently includes a new lamp. I asked he use my original lamp since my calibrator was here. I had already asked my calibrator to be here to make sure the LE was decent and he was prepared to calibrate everything again. Only had 1200 hours on it and did not want to waste his time and get another 100 hours on it.

The tech was very customer service oriented and asked if I was happy with the new LE. He was willing to swap it back and get another if I wanted. He also was perfectly fine with my calibrator being here and after making a few adjustments based on the new LE he said he would leave the rest up to my calibrator to do. He also said he was now a certified Samsung Field Engineer. (He is in a family business and has been a tech for many years). He also said he ordered me a Zeiss LE. In his opinion he said it was the better of the two. The other LE is made by Samsung. Don't know how true that is but he had no reason to fib.

Anyway, the LE got rid of my dark, light, dark issue. Examined the screen closely and there were no other issues or defects. My pincushion is a bit better too. He confirmed what my calibrator said in regards to the pincushion. It has more to do with the throw distance and the new LE must have been just different enough to make it better.

The set looks great and I'm happy with the results. Many thanks to all here who helped. :)

The “left side stripe” has just started to appear on my 6168. At this time it starts about 6 inches from the top and is about ½ inch wide at its widest point. It looks almost identical to the stripe in post #9359 by sdv5. The TV was in the first Power Buy shipment and has 3032 hrs. on it. Since I know a light engine replacement will fix it (at least temporarily) I may wait to get it serviced. I would like to hear that Samsung knows what in the light engine is causing the problem and that the problem has been corrected.

I was in that first powerby batch as well and just had my LE replaced. When I called they didn't indicate anything other than they would schedule an appointment to have it replaced. No point in waiting, you might end up waiting past the end of your warrenty.

Component Video Input (Smart Input) 2 rear(480i,480p,720p,1080i)

Does the HL-R5078W do 1080p on the HDMI slot only?

How is this tv and what model year is it (2005)?

Component Video Input (Smart Input) 2 rear(480i,480p,720p,1080i)

Does the HL-R5078W do 1080p on the HDMI slot only?

How is this tv and what model year is it (2005)?

Great tv (2005) and 1080P input (from what I've read) comes from VGA only, HDMI won't do it, only 1080i

Great tv (2005) and 1080P input (from what I've read) comes from VGA only, HDMI won't do it, only 1080i

That's correct. 1080P is only available through VGA on the 2005 sets.

I have similar problems with Windoze XP Pro/SP2, ATI Radeon 9800 Pro, ATI CCC 1.2.2243.38605 (all connected with 15-pin VGA cables and proven continuity -- no intermediate switchers or other components -- no missing pins -- just video card to cable to TV).

Launching ATI CCC sometimes identifies Samsung 1920x1080, sometimes just a generic display. It's a cr*p shoot.

Here's my recipe for guaranteed results:

1. Launch ATI CCC. Why does this take 30 seconds to launch with 3.0+ GHz CPU and 2 GB RAM? Everything else launches in < 3 seconds. What is ATI trying to prove? Never mind. Back on topic.

2. Extend Main onto Monitor.

3. Detect Displays. This sometimes causes Sammy to salute, but not always. Who knows? Between ATI, MS, and Samsung, there are at least 8 ways for this to fail. Obviously, nobody ever bothered to test this cr*p.

4. Select Display 2. Sammy may or may not have saluted. See above comment.

5. Set
Desktop Area: [640x480] (or something else that you don't want)
Color Quality: [High (32-bit)
Refresh Rate: [60 Hz]

If you don't set (this step, #5) and reset (next step, #6) the desktop area, then about half the time you'll wind up with a panned display or a display with wrong aspect ratio... which dutifully reports itself as 1920x1080 but is obviously deluded.

6. Then set
Desktop Area: [1920x1080].

7. Now everything should work OK. Swap displays or whatever else you normally do.

Before you defend these pr*cks, I realize that nobody has stepped up to the task of testing all operating systems cross all video cards cross all video drivers cross all televisions... which is why we're all alpha testers (I won't even dignify the cr*p that MS and the video card sharks and the TV snake oil salesmen hype as "beta").

To summarize, if you force a random resolution down the collective throats of this collection of software drivel, and then if you force what you want, then (In My Humble Experience) you'll usually get what you want. If you reboot your PC or TV between sessions, then who knows what you'll get. There appears to be no notion of reliable state saved in this crummy scenario.

Where are the software heroes when you need them?

I have a different issue with ATI CCC, that is very random also. Essentially, I can't watch movies (in any format wmv, divx, etc) unless I disable hardware acceleration. I think this is an OS issue because I haven't reinstalled my OS in a LONG time, but in any case I don't use CCC on that computer. The regular ATI driver has no issue with this. I would recommend uninstalling CCC, then run "driver cleaner" (http://www.drivercleaner.net/) to make sure nothing is left. Make sure you uninstall the ATI driver completely, and then download the new driver without CCC. ATI driver, no CCC (https://support.ati.com/ics/support/default.asp?deptID=894&task=knowledge&folderID=293)
Half way down the page download (under low-speed) step one only. That should be just the display driver. That's what I would try first.

I was in that first powerby batch as well and just had my LE replaced. When I called they didn't indicate anything other than they would schedule an appointment to have it replaced. No point in waiting, you might end up waiting past the end of your warrenty.

Mike,
I remember receiving my TV on the same day as you. My defect isn't that bad and I'm curious to see if it gets worse with time. I plan to call Samsung before the end of the month. Do all the LEs come with a new bulb? Since I'm a heavy user it will only pay to wait if the bulb is included.

Mike,
I remember receiving my TV on the same day as you. My defect isn't that bad and I'm curious to see if it gets worse with time. I plan to call Samsung before the end of the month. Do all the LEs come with a new bulb? Since I'm a heavy user it will only pay to wait if the bulb is included.


Yeah the bulb was already in the LE enclosure. Basically he ripped the tape off the samsung shipping box, pulled the new LE out of the box and slid it into the tv. Then reconnected the cables. That was it (as far as hardware installation goes).

Therocksays2320, I think you should be more specific but if I was going to assume what you meant I would say you had connected a DVD player and it worked but since you had to disconnect it now you're having a problem?

I forget how that works but thinking off the top of my head, I think if the DVD player was off and disconnected from the set and the set was off and unplugged to start I would then plug in the set and turn it on. Don't unplug the set if the fan is still running and wait a minute before you plug it back in and turn it on. After the set is on I would go through all of the inputs. Then with the DVD player off I would connect it to the set and then turn the DVD player on. Go through the inputs again and see if the set grabs it. I think that worked for my friend's VCR on his 5078. I have a 5678.



well i want to connect hdmi through my hd cable box, but when its connected its says weak or no signal. The first time i had put the hdmi cable it worked fine, but know when i try and plug it i get no signal

The STB is different since unplugging the STB will loose your channel info, guide and might, I'm not sure, lose your pending recordings that you have set and fav. channels? Not sure on those. My friend has had to reset his STB a few times and the only way to reset the STB is to unplug it. If you think you or someone has entered the STB SM I would check to be sure the HDMI output is still selected. Probably unlikely but possible. I would follow what I suggested already first, without unplugging the STB. If it still doesn't work I'd unplug the STB unless someone here has a better idea? Keep in mind it takes about two hours to get the data back from the cable co. that was lost. Let us know how you got it to work.

That's correct. 1080P is only available through VGA on the 2005 sets.

What about the 2006 sets? I want a tv for the PlayStation 3 and from what I have read/heard, 1080p will only be allowed through HDMI. That is why I want to make sure. I guess we will know next week @ E3 if 1080p will be possible through VGA.

Hello All,

I just got the HL-R5678W delivered today. I played Battlefield 2:Modern Combat for the Xbox 360 on it. AWESOME!!! One question, does the TV automatically select the resolution according to the source? Do I have to adjust it manually? Thanks for any help.

Hello All,

I just got the HL-R5678W delivered today. I played Battlefield 2:Modern Combat for the Xbox 360 on it. AWESOME!!! One question, does the TV automatically select the resolution according to the source? Do I have to adjust it manually? Thanks for any help.

I'm not exactly sure I know what you are asking, but, the TV will only display its native resolution of 1080P. It takes any resolution fed to it that is less than that and up scales it to 1080P.

I just got done posting information related to this in another thread. I will just copy and paste it here and maybe it will answer your question:

“When using the Xbox 360 VGA cable you simply choose what resolution you want it to output such as 1280 X 720 or 1280 X 1024 but it does not tell you what the refresh rate is. However, my HDTV reports that it is receiving the signal at 1280 X 720 @ 60Hz. Since the internal native resolution of the Xbox 360 is 1280 X 720 that is the best resolution to output so you don’t have any internal scaling done within the Xbox 360.

If using component cables with Xbox 360 then your choices are 1080i or 720P and you have to makes sure that the little slide-switch on the cable itself is set to HDTV. There is no such switch for the VGA cable however.

The VGA cable is the better choice because it has been shown to have better response time when compared to the component cables. This means it takes less time for the action you initiate through the gamepad to actually happen on screen. There is more “lag” when using the component cables. Plus, video quality is somewhat better with the VGA over the component.”

The STB is different since unplugging the STB will loose your channel info, guide and might, I'm not sure, lose your pending recordings that you have set and fav. channels? Not sure on those. My friend has had to reset his STB a few times and the only way to reset the STB is to unplug it. If you think you or someone has entered the STB SM I would check to be sure the HDMI output is still selected. Probably unlikely but possible. I would follow what I suggested already first, without unplugging the STB. If it still doesn't work I'd unplug the STB unless someone here has a better idea? Keep in mind it takes about two hours to get the data back from the cable co. that was lost. Let us know how you got it to work.


well its a sd8300 hd with dvr, i don't think i'll loose any recordings if i do the unplug routine. So u think i should just unplug the component that im using beucase i know u can't use hdmi and compoment at the same time. but even if i unplug to use hdmi i can't get no signal, its wierd. i remember this happening with my old hdtv with using dvi, and out of nowhere it worked

Therocksays2320, no, no. Read my first post, #9577 again. Disconnect the component and follow the post for the HDMI. I would try the HDMI the way I mentioned in that post and don't unplug the STB power. If it doesn't work like I think then unplug the STB power. You might lose everything, but not the recordings you have already made. You might lose the pending ones that are in memory to be recorded in the future though. I'd try all of this since no one has made another suggestion. lol. Try it and if you find a different way that works then let us know.

The set looks great and I'm happy with the results. Many thanks to all here who helped. :)

Thanks for posting back. I was hoping all would go well! I think we can now safely say that replacing the screen will not help with pin cushion in spite of what some of the Samsung Techs may say. Happy viewing!!! :D

is it me or does over the air hd look better than dish networks hd

I've noticed the same low quality on a friend's TV using dish networks. Think dish networks is pushing more channels at the expense of resolution. Since there is only so much bandwidth, more channels means less resolution for each channel.

On the other hand, off the air broadcasts come directly from each station, which only needs to supply a single channel. Thus, the broadcast can be at maximum resolution.

I'm using Cox cable, which seems to supply good resolution. I don't have access to off the air anymore, so I can't compare.

Another trick that multi-channel broadcasters do is dynamically change resolution. For example, a pay-per-view boxing match may be given more resolution by decreasing resolution on other channels.

Therocksays2320, no, no. Read my first post, #9577 again. Disconnect the component and follow the post for the HDMI. I would try the HDMI the way I mentioned in that post and don't unplug the STB power. If it doesn't work like I think then unplug the STB power. You might lose everything, but not the recordings you have already made. You might lose the pending ones that are in memory to be recorded in the future though. I'd try all of this since no one has made another suggestion. lol. Try it and if you find a different way that works then let us know.

I've had some similar issues. I wanted to connect my STB through an Onkyo receiver using HDMI. However, the STB detected that the Onkyo did not pass through the HDCP (copy protection coding), and so the STB turned off its output. The HDCP is a very complex coding scheme, and if it isn't working right the STB will stop. When I was getting my STB from Cox, another customer said she was having problems with an HDMI cable that was not supplied by Cox.

When I had this problem, the STB showed video for about 30 seconds (with a message about the repeater not passing through HDCP), then went to a green screen. Luckily I bought the receiver at Circuit City and was able to return it. Now I go directly from the STB to the TV.

As for resetting the STB, I had some funky replay issues which was only resolved by unplugging power from the STB. (This was much better than trying to exchange the STB). This solved the problem I was having. I noticed, though, that I didn't lose any of my settings, which I assume are stored on the hard disk.

Add me to the list of the folks who are experiencing the shadow problem on the left side of their screen. Does anyone have an update as to what Samsung is doing to permanenly fix this problem? From the sounds of it they will come in and replace the LE, but that the problem will likely re-occur after another 800+ hours of use.

Samsung doesn't provide any info. They don't even offer FW updates. lol. As long as they keep fixing it I guess it doesn't matter. I think only one person had it happen to them again? It would be good to know the cause but since they change the LE anyway it doesn't make a difference. I need a third LE like only a few others, for a new issue.

I've had my Sammy professionally calibrated. Will a LE replacement reset all the service menu settings that my calibrator made? And even if not, I assume that the set will be "uncalibrated" by the replacement?

I’ve had my HL-R6168W since 9/5/05 (ordered on the TVAuthority Powerbuy on 7/31/05). There was always speculation back then that perhaps a firmware upgrade may one day enable HDMI ports to accept a 1080P signal. Has there been any more speculation or confirmation whether this is even possible should Samsung ever choose to do so?

Therocksays2320, no, no. Read my first post, #9577 again. Disconnect the component and follow the post for the HDMI. I would try the HDMI the way I mentioned in that post and don't unplug the STB power. If it doesn't work like I think then unplug the STB power. You might lose everything, but not the recordings you have already made. You might lose the pending ones that are in memory to be recorded in the future though. I'd try all of this since no one has made another suggestion. lol. Try it and if you find a different way that works then let us know.

ok...lol, i have tried it both ways. i still get a no signal or weak signal message. i thik the hdmi cable is the one that is damaged. well i guess i'll have to buy and hdmi adapter because i have a dvi cable. Lets see if that works :)

DVI doesn't pass audio. I'm guessing its hard to break a HDMI cable? I'd confirm the settings in the STB before buying a cable you might not need. Someone here might have an answer if you can sit tight 'til Monday. Its a hassle but at least you have component working for now right?

One last option is the STB. Me and my friend each went through two STBs from Comsucks. I waited 'til I got I got a DVD recorder and dumped the content but my friend didn't care if he lost the recordings. So far so good. I really don't think its the cable so I'd hate to see you waste the time and money if that won't fix it. If you can return it easily I'd get it since that would be the fastest, easiest test. Let us know how you get it fixed.

DVI doesn't pass audio. I'm guessing its hard to break a HDMI cable? I'd confirm the settings in the STB before buying a cable you might not need. Someone here might have an answer if you can sit tight 'til Monday. Its a hassle but at least you have component working for now right?

One last option is the STB. Me and my friend each went through two STBs from Comsucks. I waited 'til I got I got a DVD recorder and dumped the content but my friend didn't care if he lost the recordings. So far so good. I really don't think its the cable so I'd hate to see you waste the time and money if that won't fix it. If you can return it easily I'd get it since that would be the fastest, easiest test. Let us know how you get it fixed.


well i don't have recording on the dvd, its on the dvr that its in the sa8300. my dvd has nothing to do with this..lol, well have a separate thing for the audio, so it really won't matter.

I’ve had my HL-R6168W since 9/5/05 (ordered on the TVAuthority Powerbuy on 7/31/05). There was always speculation back then that perhaps a firmware upgrade may one day enable HDMI ports to accept a 1080P signal. Has there been any more speculation or confirmation whether this is even possible should Samsung ever choose to do so?

1080P can't be done with a FW upgrade. Input through HDMI goes through chips that are unable to accept 1080P (hardwired in).

Therocksays2320, lol, no, I said I used my DVD recorder to save the TV shows in the DVR that I wanted before I got a new STB. If you don't need the audio then the adapter should work, assuming it is the right one and the adapter and DVI cable are not broken either? Let us know what happens since I would've put money on the STB being set wrong and or broken at this point. If it was the HDMI cable you'd know where it is broken on it and what caused it to break? I'm really trying here. lol.

I've had my Sammy professionally calibrated. Will a LE replacement reset all the service menu settings that my calibrator made? And even if not, I assume that the set will be "uncalibrated" by the replacement?

No and yes. The calibration stuff is stored on the digital board. From what I've read the digital board is not normally replaced when a LE is replaced. However, you will now have a new bulb, new color wheel, lenses, etc. that can and probably will render your calibrated set "uncalibrated".

You might want to see if the tech will replace the new bulb with the old since that is probably going to be the biggest difference between the new and the old. In addition to having the tech adjust the screen size on the new LE, make sure he also adjusts the index (probably standard to do so).

My guess is that if the same bulb is used, the calibration you have now may be very close even with an LE replacement. I would guess that the color wheel is manufactured to tight tolerances therefore the biggest difference between LE's will be the bulb followed by the index into the color wheel.

Let us know if you keep the old bulb and if the calibration held up.

BTW: MoInSTL. Sounds like you kept your old bulb. Did your calibrator have to do much tweaking after replacing your LE?

One last thing since this is driving me nuts not being able to fix it. Upgrade the STB. Comsucks has a newer model now with digital SD instead of analog. I have the new one and the SD channels are much better. My friend still has the older model. Both of ours are HDMI since the DVI STBs are much older models.

We only have cable since you can't get a promo from DISRECT for two HDTVs, he lives upstairs. Now that we have gone through four STBs I don't think buying a STB is a good idea. We just get a new one when we need it.

Let us know if you keep the old bulb and if the calibration held up.



Thanks for the info, and yes, I'll certainly let you know how it goes.

Hi Guys,

I've owned my HLR6167W since August and have absolutely loved it. However, yesterday I just noticed a shadow appearing on the left side of my screen that has me concerned.

Does anyone know what causes this and how it can be fixed? I will attempt to attach a jpg of what I'm seeing. All responses are very welcome.

Thanks

Scott

No word from Samsung on the cause but a new LE solves it.

BTW: MoInSTL. Sounds like you kept your old bulb. Did your calibrator have to do much tweaking after replacing your LE?

The new LE had different settings (various numbers) the tech entered. Apparently each LE has a sheet printed in the box with the correct settings. So even though I kept my same lamp, it needed to be calibrated again. He was here for quite sometime calibrating my HD-DVR via HDMI first and my DVD player via component last.

Seems like these sets like to pull a lot of blue which makes the whites look bad. The grayscale was also way off. He started from scratch. Looks awesome again and the new Zeiss LE the tech replaced throws it just different enough that my pincushion was reduced.

If I opted for the new lamp I would have had to wait for 100 hours again. My calibrator was already here to make sure the PQ and everything looked 100% before the tech left. So I blew off the new lamp.

Folks,

I just purchased Samsung HL-R6178W TV...and completed very basic hook-up. I have two questions...would appreciate any help.

1. Can I use this TV's speakersas the center-channel speaker for my surround sound system? My previous TV was a decade old 32" Toshiba which allowed me use it in that mode. So I thought every large screen TV should allow that.

2. After setting up the TV, I realize that it is 1/2 inch too high to fit into my pre-built media center! Now, it seems that at the base of this TV there is a slim (just about 1/2 inch thick) stand. Can I remove this stand from the base and fit this TV snuggly into my media center? How do I do that?

I would appreciate any help.

Thanks.
/Hemant

Folks,

I just purchased Samsung HL-R6178W TV...and completed very basic hook-up. I have two questions...would appreciate any help.

1. Can I use this TV's speakersas the center-channel speaker for my surround sound system? My previous TV was a decade old 32" Toshiba which allowed me use it in that mode. So I thought every large screen TV should allow that.

2. After setting up the TV, I realize that it is 1/2 inch too high to fit into my pre-built media center! Now, it seems that at the base of this TV there is a slim (just about 1/2 inch thick) stand. Can I remove this stand from the base and fit this TV snuggly into my media center? How do I do that?

I would appreciate any help.

Thanks.
/Hemant

1. Many would discourage this due to probable timber mismatching between onboard and external loudspeakers. I'm not even sure it's possible for all of the various sources. The RCA and optical audio outputs are disabled (in different ways) under various screwy conditions for various sources unless the onboard speakers are muted. If Samsung had simply passed all audio for all sources under all conditions to all outputs always, then you might have had a chance (but then how could your audio processor control delay and volume correctly?).

2. Posts 6365 and 6370 address base removal (try searching for "+remove +base").

Welcome to the not so exclusive left side shadow club. Here's mine:

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/508/IMG_1111websize.jpg

A new light engine was the quick fix. Hopefully Samsung has figured this out and adjusted the new LE's going out to the field. I'm expecting mine to do it again.

Hi Guys,

I've owned my HLR6167W since August and have absolutely loved it. However, yesterday I just noticed a shadow appearing on the left side of my screen that has me concerned.

Does anyone know what causes this and how it can be fixed? I will attempt to attach a jpg of what I'm seeing. All responses are very welcome.

Thanks

Scott

Therocksays2320, lol, no, I said I used my DVD recorder to save the TV shows in the DVR that I wanted before I got a new STB. If you don't need the audio then the adapter should work, assuming it is the right one and the adapter and DVI cable are not broken either? Let us know what happens since I would've put money on the STB being set wrong and or broken at this point. If it was the HDMI cable you'd know where it is broken on it and what caused it to break? I'm really trying here. lol.



well bro...lol i have a dvi cable as a previously said with a a male hdmi connector so i can connect it on my tv. well i tested it out with the other hd cable box that i have and it worked fine using the dvi cable with the male hdmi adapter. when i used my regular hdmi cable with the box that i have i wouldn't get any signal. so i purchased the other half of the hdmi adapter so i can use it with the box i want. now if that doesn't work, then i know whats the deal. it would be the hdmi input on the back of the cable box that is damaged. well now what i waiting fro is for is the other half of the hdmi adapter to get here. one way or another we will find out...lol thanks for ypur help :)

Hello,

I just recently purchased a Samsung HLR-5678W TV. I've been reading through this thread a little, and was curious about 2 things.

1) I talked to a guy yesterday who seemed very knowledgeable on the set, and said that Blue Ray will be the only DVD that has 1080p, HD DVD will only have 1080i/720p.

With that being said, he also mentioned that cable nor satellite will be broadcasting in 1080p. I may have misunderstood him, but he made it sound like the limiting factor for the 1080p on the HDMI input was actually the cable, and not the input itself. Does anyone have some insight on this?

2) I was curious if there was some sort of guide or anything I could look at to adjust the picture settings. I have no complaints with the picture currently, other than I can barely see anything during dark scenes, but I'm sure the TV could look a lot better if it were setup correctly.

Thanks!

Hello,

I just recently purchased a Samsung HLR-5678W TV. I've been reading through this thread a little, and was curious about 2 things.

1) I talked to a guy yesterday who seemed very knowledgeable on the set, and said that Blue Ray will be the only DVD that has 1080p, HD DVD will only have 1080i/720p.

With that being said, he also mentioned that cable nor satellite will be broadcasting in 1080p. I may have misunderstood him, but he made it sound like the limiting factor for the 1080p on the HDMI input was actually the cable, and not the input itself. Does anyone have some insight on this?

2) I was curious if there was some sort of guide or anything I could look at to adjust the picture settings. I have no complaints with the picture currently, other than I can barely see anything during dark scenes, but I'm sure the TV could look a lot better if it were setup correctly.

Thanks!

I see that this is your first AVS post. You should spend a little time browsing this thread, where all your questions have been exhaustively discussed and answered during the past year. But to answer a possibly new one: your set's inability to accept 1080p via HDMI has nothing to do with the cable (all of the 2005 Sammys have that restriction). Oh, and no one is broadcasting 1080p or will be in the foreseeable future.

Hi,

Since the left side shadow seems to be showing up for many after anywhere from 800-1600 hours of usage, the question arises: Is the shadow occurrence just a matter of time?

My question: What is the maximum amount of usage time an owner has gone WITHOUT the shadow?

I lose immediately. I haven't reached the 800hr mark. My set was delivered on the first of September and the LE was replaced 3 weeks later (scratch on the lens.)

Jim

Pixguy, when I had kept track I'd say it was around three months after purchase to get the vertical stripe. I don't think yours counts since it was for a different issue. lol. There aren't any moving parts so I wonder if it is a heat issue or something? I think it would be easier to understand if we knew what part it was or the cause.

Lankhoss, I'm not sure BR is set in stone but at some point TV could be broadcast at 1080p, maybe sooner than planned since technology has improved a lot to make it possible. Right now a video console or DVD could use 1080p. The next gen. sets have 1080p input. The current sets can't be upgraded to 1080p on HDMI. It is 1080p on VGA now. If you have INHD2 channel I think, there is a show Sat. morning to Tuneup and calibrate your HDTV. Its a start. You'll find most everything is set correctly aside from the contrast and brightness. Anything more specific would require a professional calibration and you would need to get the calibration again if you replace the LE. Several people here are on their second LE already. Very few are on their third. I need a third but keep forgetting to make the appointment. HTH
[I lost my Tuneup show since I had replaced my STB. I think that info is right, I'm trying to remember.]

well bro...lol i have a dvi cable as a previously said with a a male hdmi connector so i can connect it on my tv. well i tested it out with the other hd cable box that i have and it worked fine using the dvi cable with the male hdmi adapter. when i used my regular hdmi cable with the box that i have i wouldn't get any signal. so i purchased the other half of the hdmi adapter so i can use it with the box i want. now if that doesn't work, then i know whats the deal. it would be the hdmi input on the back of the cable box that is damaged. well now what i waiting fro is for is the other half of the hdmi adapter to get here. one way or another we will find out...lol thanks for ypur help :)


well its not the cable. i just got the other half of the hdmi adapter to hook it up on the back of my hd dvr and still get no signal. what i am going to do is exchange my box for another one becuase now i believe its the female plugin in the back of the box that is damaged.

I hope the problem is with the STB and that you get a STB without DVI.

Lankhoss, I'm not sure BR is set in stone but at some point TV could be broadcast at 1080p, maybe sooner than planned since technology has improved a lot to make it possible.

BVCP, 1080i broadcast is likely all we are going to see for a very long time. Take a look at the following quote. It's from Wikipedia which some may consider less than reliable but in this instance, I agree with everything in this quote:

From Wikipedia

Broadcasting standards
Due to bandwidth limitations of broadcast frequencies, the ATSC and DVB have standardized only the frame rates of 24, 25, and 30 frames per second (1080p24, 1080p25, 1080p30). 1080p30 is currently the most bandwidth-intensive video mode supported. If the standard MPEG-2 compression is used, versions with higher frame rate such as 1080p50 and 1080p60 could only be sent over higher-bandwidth channels; to send these over normal-bandwidth channels, a more modern codec such as the H.264/MPEG-4 AVC codec must be used. Higher frame rates such as 1080p50 and 1080p60 are currently for private or internal use only, and are not part of the broadcasting standard.

The ATSC is considering amending its standard to allow the incorporation of the newer codecs for optional usage like the DVB Consortium already has done with DVB-S2. However, this is not expected to result in widespread consumer availability of broadcast 1080p programming, since most of the existing digital television sets, or external digital receivers would still only be capable of decoding the older, less-efficient MPEG-2 codec, while the bandwidth limitations do not allow for broadcasting two simultaneous streams (i.e. both a 1080i or 720p MPEG-2 stream alongside a 1080p MPEG-4 stream) on the same broadcast channel.

Its the same issue. Only recently has there been an increase in HD programming since no one has a HDTV. Now it will be an issue that people will have 1080i HDTV and not 1080p. All new HDTVs will probably accept 1080p, since others have. More and more cameras will be made to produce 1080p and as far as the bandwidth or computer technology, that is getting better now with fiber optic instead of cable and MP4 STBs. One issue is technology and one is marketability. Afa technology, like I said that won't be much of an issue very soon, sooner than its been to get 1080i. Whether anyone is distributing it is another story but ATT and Verizon would be able to deliver it with fiber optics. I don't know about satellite. That goes back to competition and demand so they would have to. Its on its way its just a matter of when.

How do you get to the service menu on your TV? Maybe I'm just confusing that with the regular menu....but I'm not quite sure what the service menu is, or how to access it (in case I need to).

Thanks

My question: What is the maximum amount of usage time an owner has gone WITHOUT the shadow?


Jim

Only 750 hrs. in my case.

I have over 2000 hours so far with no problems

I have over 2000 hours so far with no problems

How do you know how many hours you have on your set?

How do you know how many hours you have on your set?

You find the Lamp Life hours in the Service Menu under the "Option" heading. I'm sitting at 855h with no shadow problem.

"How does one get to the Service Menu?" With the gazillion previous warnings here about changing anything found there --POWER, MUTE, 1, 8, 2, POWER.

3089 hours on my HLR5668W, no shadow.

To be fair my friend has the 5078 and he got his in August I think? He hasn't had any problems. That's nine months. I got my third set I think mid November and got it serviced the first week of February so that's three months.

3089 hours on my HLR5668W, no shadow.

That's excellent news.

You find the Lamp Life hours in the Service Menu under the "Option" heading. I'm sitting at 855h with no shadow problem.

"How does one get to the Service Menu?" With the gazillion previous warnings here about changing anything found there --POWER, MUTE, 1, 8, 2, POWER.

Hello everyone, I missed you all. :D I was out of town for 3 months. I got 1600 hours on my 6178W and 900 hours on my 88. No shadows or anything. Both my sets are almost one year old since August 2005. I am so ready for the NFL season. Aren't you all??? I will not be traveling anymore after this August and finally get to enjoy TV like it was suppose to be enjoyed. My calibration is still holding up. Also the Velux did the trick big time. :)

Chris

That's excellent news.

Guys, what did I miss, anything good? What was the main topic for the last couple of months? I read through over 25 pages and nothing really exciting. How are the new sets? Are they going to hit this year in October? That is just around the corner.

StallionRe, welcome back we all missed you. lol. We can't wait to see the pics you promised. lol. I thought I'd give you a couple of zingers, its been slow here like you said.

Well, I can be added to the left side stripe group. Hadn't noticed it until today. But there is. I have ~2200 hours. I had hoped that because mine was one of the very first sets that maybe I was somehow immune, but that's not the case. Called Samsung and they will send out tech but will take some time as there are no Authorized service centers in my area. Let's just hope that the new light engines "solve" the problem for good. :(

You find the Lamp Life hours in the Service Menu under the "Option" heading. I'm sitting at 855h with no shadow problem.

"How does one get to the Service Menu?" With the gazillion previous warnings here about changing anything found there --POWER, MUTE, 1, 8, 2, POWER.

Thanks a ton!!! Is there a quick guide anywhere on any changes I should make in that menu?

I have ordered a HT DVD to help setup the colors and everything, but I'm not sure if there are other settings I should change in the service menu.

Thanks again!

Schaffer970, I hope it goes well. Don't take any BS. Make sure they have the replacement LE with them since you know you need it. I can see them making an appointment to see what they need first. I hate it when people waste my time.

bcvp, helhence, MoInSTL

Thanks so much for the replies -- FWIW ~2000 hrs on my lamp.

StallionRe, welcome back we all missed you. lol. We can't wait to see the pics you promised. lol. I thought I'd give you a couple of zingers, its been slow here like you said.
Thanks for the Zingers, LOL. I will work on that as soon as I can. I am busy at the moment. When I get some stable time home alone, I will. LOL.

I hate to post this for fear of bad luck hehehehe,but with 3767 hrs on TV since Aug 05.I cringe everytime I see a post where a replacement is needed. I feel bad to see this happen to anyone. the one thing good that comes from it is, it helps others to know what is wrong and tell the techs the problem lol.

is it true that HD DVD and blue ray players will down-sample by 1/2 the resolution if you have a non-HDCP-compliant TV?

is my 6168W over hdmi a HDCP-compliant TV?

thanks

I hate to post this for fear of bad luck hehehehe,but with 3767 hrs on TV since Aug 05.I cringe everytime I see a post where a replacement is needed. I feel bad to see this happen to anyone. the one thing good that comes from it is, it helps others to know what is wrong and tell the techs the problem lol.

So two thoughts:

1. How many hours has it been since Aug. 5 (or September 1 in my case.)?

2. Who knows...maybe leaving the set ON all the time prevents "the shadow" or other problems.


j.l

So two thoughts:

1. How many hours has it been since Aug. 5 (or September 1 in my case.)?

2. Who knows...maybe leaving the set ON all the time prevents "the shadow" or other problems.


j.l

Regarding number 2. I doubt that. So your saying that turning on and off the TV will cause the shadows, maybe the light engine can't withstand the voltage spike, each time you turn on the TV. What do you think? What is causing this then at different hours on usage?

is it true that HD DVD and blue ray players will down-sample by 1/2 the resolution if you have a non-HDCP-compliant TV? -- Don't know.

is my 6168W over hdmi a HDCP-compliant TV? -- Yes

You find the Lamp Life hours in the Service Menu under the "Option" heading. I'm sitting at 855h with no shadow problem.



Thanks. :)

Originally Posted by Pixguy
You find the Lamp Life hours in the Service Menu under the "Option" heading. I'm sitting at 855h with no shadow problem.

"How does one get to the Service Menu?" With the gazillion previous warnings here about changing anything found there --POWER, MUTE, 1, 8, 2, POWER.


Thanks a ton!!! Is there a quick guide anywhere on any changes I should make in that menu?

I have ordered a HT DVD to help setup the colors and everything, but I'm not sure if there are other settings I should change in the service menu.

Thanks again!


What Pixguy meant by what I have bolded above is that it is very dangerous going into the SM when you don't know EXACTLY what you are doing. I would suggest that you use the "search this thread" tool at the top of the page and type in "service +menu" (without the quotes) and read the gazillion previous posts about this issue. That is what Pixguy was getting at.....

I have 914 hours on my HL-R6168W and I've had it since 9/5/05. I have not had any shadow problems as of yet.

I have had the digital board replaced back in late 2005 however.

Hey everyone. I'm finally going to have the means to purchase a Projection DLP TV. My first big screen. FINALLY!!! I'm still not trying to break the bank, but I want a good TV that I won't have to upgrade too soon. I'm looking at the Samsung HL-R5078W. I know Samsung has just released their "S" Series TV's, but I don't want to spend that much if I can avoid it. Is the 5078 still a good choice if I'm not wanting to get the latest greatest? Also I'm looking @ purchasing it from one of the recommended online stores from Shopping.com. Abes Of Maine has it for $1,938.00 shipping included & $2,227.00 with the stand: Shopping.Com's Listings for the HL-R5078W (http://www2.shopping.com/xPO-Samsung_HL_R5078W) Good move? Thanks in advance for the advice.

Charles

Xbox360 on my HLR6178 Rocks

Xbox 360 hooked to my HLR 6178 via VGA. Xbox output 720P, 5.1 optical audio to my 7.1 surround sound. HLR VGA input set to wide PC. Xbox wired to my high speed home network.

Boy this is fun! I rented a bunch of action games, driving and shooting, to check for any lag and there NO LAG. I need to spend a bit more time adjusting the picture size and position and color balance but it is quite impressive.

Thanks to all who helped me with the set up

Does anyone who views this thread own one of the Toshiba HD DVD players? I would like to created some discussion amongst owners of the sets and the HD player. Impressions and the like. I do have a question to pose: Does the HLR6168W do blacker then black. I have my HD A1

Does anyone who views this thread own one of the Toshiba HD DVD players? I would like to created some discussion amongst owners of the sets and the HD player. Impressions and the like. I do have a question to pose: Does the HLR6168W do blacker then black. I have my HD A1 hooked up over HDMI, which does not allow blacker then black on the HD A1. I decided to switch to component and pop in the DVE to see if I could see the BTB stripe. I could not. I have the BTB enchancement on via the player. Something in my system is preventing BTB but I do not know what. I am using a straight connection to my TV from the HD A1. Any ideas?

Does anyone who views this thread own one of the Toshiba HD DVD players? I would like to created some discussion amongst owners of the sets and the HD player. Impressions and the like. I do have a question to pose: Does the HLR6168W do blacker then black. I have my HD A1 hooked up over HDMI, which does not allow blacker then black on the HD A1. I decided to switch to component and pop in the DVE to see if I could see the BTB stripe. I could not. I have the BTB enchancement on via the player. Something in my system is preventing BTB but I do not know what. I am using a straight connection to my TV from the HD A1. Any ideas?

I can’t comment on the Toshiba player but the TV definitely passes blacker than black. See post #4 in this thread.

Does anyone who views this thread own one of the Toshiba HD DVD players? I would like to created some discussion amongst owners of the sets and the HD player. Impressions and the like. I do have a question to pose: Does the HLR6168W do blacker then black. I have my HD A1 hooked up over HDMI, which does not allow blacker then black on the HD A1. I decided to switch to component and pop in the DVE to see if I could see the BTB stripe. I could not. I have the BTB enchancement on via the player. Something in my system is preventing BTB but I do not know what. I am using a straight connection to my TV from the HD A1. Any ideas?

I'm not familiar with the Toshiba but the TV will definitely display BTB over the HDMI. In the Tosh, try turning the BTB enhancement off. If there is an IRE setting, make sure it's 7.5 and not zero. This may also be your BTB enhancement. If the IRE gets set to 0, then the player will not pass BTB. You're better off leaving that set to normal and adjusting the brightness on the Sammy. Good Luck.

I just went into the Service Menu for the first time last night, and noticed that just for OTA TV, the DNIe was turned off. I'm almost positive that I didn't push any buttons that would have changed this, and I know that I didn't specifically turn it off. I thought it was odd. Has onyone else seen this? As soon as I turned it on, the picture became much sharper etc. To be honest, I must have hit something to disable it because I have seen the demo before with it on. I must have hit reset or something??? I hope not. Every other input had it on. Just regular tv didn't. I guess the moral is don't screw around in service menu. :eek:

I'm not exactly sure I know what you are asking, but, the TV will only display its native resolution of 1080P. It takes any resolution fed to it that is less than that and up scales it to 1080P.

I just got done posting information related to this in another thread. I will just copy and paste it here and maybe it will answer your question:

“When using the Xbox 360 VGA cable you simply choose what resolution you want it to output such as 1280 X 720 or 1280 X 1024 but it does not tell you what the refresh rate is. However, my HDTV reports that it is receiving the signal at 1280 X 720 @ 60Hz. Since the internal native resolution of the Xbox 360 is 1280 X 720 that is the best resolution to output so you don’t have any internal scaling done within the Xbox 360.

If using component cables with Xbox 360 then your choices are 1080i or 720P and you have to makes sure that the little slide-switch on the cable itself is set to HDTV. There is no such switch for the VGA cable however.

The VGA cable is the better choice because it has been shown to have better response time when compared to the component cables. This means it takes less time for the action you initiate through the gamepad to actually happen on screen. There is more “lag” when using the component cables. Plus, video quality is somewhat better with the VGA over the component.”

Hey Bridgeboy,

Thanks for the help. Just so I'm clear...every signal coming into the tv through the component connections is upconverted to 1080p? That's for both my 360 and HD cable, correct? Also, do you think I should get the VGA cable to connect my 360 to my tv?

Again, this tv is effin awesome!!! :D :)

I have the HL-R5678W. (effin awesome!!!) Time Warner is my cable company and the HD STB they provided me with is a Pace. (I don't have the model number handy) There is no input for a HDMI cable, only DVI or component cables. I purchased a DVI/HDMI cable and I found that the picture quality was better with component. Is anyone else experiencing this or is it just me?

So, I finally got my LE replaced today to fix the left side shadow problem. The tech certainly knew how to replace the unit, but didn't seem to know a heck of a lot about all the different SM settings and what they meant. After he installed the new LE he wrote down some of the settings from the color menu, and then I watched with horror as he invoked this "factory reset" function from the SM. Good thing I had taken digital pics of all my SM settings before he arrived! Turns out whatever he did reset all of the color settings, but left the DNIe settings for the HDMI input intact. However, it appear to reset some of the DNIe settings on my component input...very strange. Everything seems to look fine now, but for good measure I am still having my calibrator come out for a visit next week.

i have a very small black spot towards the bottom of my screen. its always black . i can;t notice it unless i am within 4 feet of my 6168W. it hasn't moved or gotten bigger. i have had my tv for 8 months. its on every input. i don't want to rock the boat for a huge repair. i already had my hdmi card replaced the forst month. i want to say its 2-3mm in diameter, it is bigger than a pixel.

should i get this looked at? anyone else have this problem?

It sounds like the black plastic shavings people have had including myself. I think that is on the inside of the screen. I never heard of just one spec though, its usually a bunch and I think most notice it upon delivery. The brighter the image the more you can see. It shouldn't be there and you should get a service call. Its up to them to determine the cause but it is good to be sure what it is here before someone tries and fixes the wrong thing and wastes your time.

Does anyone who views this thread own one of the Toshiba HD DVD players? I would like to created some discussion amongst owners of the sets and the HD player. Impressions and the like. I do have a question to pose: Does the HLR6168W do blacker then black. I have my HD A1

I thought this was a problem with the A1? The 6168 definitely passes BTB but I thought I read where the A1 doesn't. I know it doesn't when I put up the test pattern. But even though it doesn't the HD DVD picture is still out standing on my 6168. It looks and sounds excellent.

They got my light engine replaced yesterday and the shadow is gone. I had 1991 hours on the old engine when it was replaced. Didn't take too long, but the guy jostled the DMD board and the picture was running downhill right when the set came back on, so he had to adjust that.

I will be curious to see if I suffer the same LE failure again or not. At this point I am just happy I got the extra 4 year warranty. Still thrilled with the tv though.

Actually, now that I have gotten to spend some time with the set it looks like some of the flesh tones and bright spots are washing out, like it is too bright. The brighter spots on screen have an odd look to them that I haven't seen before. Has anyone else seen this, with or without a light engine change? It seems like I have read about this problem, but the thread has gotten so long I can't find it now.

And the hits just keep coming. The component inputs are shot now also. Colors are goofy and the picture is so bright that the speakers start buzzing. Called Samsung and let them know that the set is in worse shape now. Asked for a new repair company and they gave me the info and asked me to call and set-up an appointment. I will give them a call on Monday and let you guys know what this turns out to be.

I am wondering if it is the DMD board, because the tech was jacking around with it yesterday when he was here.

E

Does anyone know what the "actuator gain" controls and how to adjust it on a HL-R5678? I read some speculation a while back in some long forgotten thread that "actuator gain" controlled the mechanical iris and that this was an item (in addition to gamma) that you might consider changing with a new set. I've actually read the Service Manual in regard to adjusting the "actuator gain" but can make no sense of how to use the 4 "+" signs in red, blue green and white.

Actuator gain controls the "wobulation" of the set. The way to adjust actuator gain is to put on the cross-hatch pattern and control it untill there's no saw-tooth pattern on any of the lines... In other words, adjust it untill all lines are nice and smooth.

Best regards,

Steve

Steve... Thanks. I guess I'll go back and try to figure out how to get the cross-hatch pattern, instead of the "+" signs. The manual seems to imply that I could get either the "+" signs or the cross-hatch pattern when selecting Actuator Gain 1 or 2. I get the "+" signs when selecting Actuator Gain 1 and nothing with 2. Ah well, non-productive but interesting (until I really screw something up)...

Edit: Found the cross-hatch. Needed to press the right-arrow key and not the enter button after selecting Actuator Gain 2. The saw-teeth were obvious with this pattern and easy to adjust. Thanks again...

I thought this was a problem with the A1? The 6168 definitely passes BTB but I thought I read where the A1 doesn't. I know it doesn't when I put up the test pattern. But even though it doesn't the HD DVD picture is still out standing on my 6168. It looks and sounds excellent.

I agree the A1 looks great. It was my understanding that the A1 passed BTB over component but not over HDMI. That is what was causing my confusion. I will have to investigate further.

Greetings:

Was just discussing HD with a buddy and thought I'd pop in and wish you all well. We had some good times back before the HLRxxx8's came out and hope you're all enjoying yours.

While I never ended up getting one, I moved to a projector in the similar price range and now have a spiffy 82" screen that I've been enjoying for about 5 months now :).

Cheers, hope all is well!

- D

Donb1948, are you saying that your pic was already sharp, so you thought and that with the calibration you made it even sharper? Did that affect the color at all? I thought it would.

Donb1948, are you saying that your pic was already sharp, so you thought and that with the calibration you made it even sharper? Did that affect the color at all? I thought it would. Actually, the picture was fine and I did not think anything in particular. Since I'd read that adjusting the Actuator Gain was something that one might want to consider with a new set, I thought I'd just "mess" with it to see what impact it had. Thus, I intentionally miss-adjusted it and then readjusted to determine if I could see any differences. I could not. Certainly, there was no color change that I could detect.

In overall dark scenes and with shadows, faces will take on an iridescent look (red and green accents). The effect is slight with HD over cable (component, Motorola STB) but is much worst with DVDs (component, 480i). The faces essentially look the way the whole screen looks when the Delay Index is mis-adjusted? Is there a cure for this? Should turning off DNIe via the service menu cure this? (I tried that and it did not.) Suggestions? Thanks.

I was just thinking there may be a way to squeeze more out of the HLR sets but it would probably not be that noticeable between 1080i/p.I read about the HDMI 1.3 spec coming out so I figured I would get other thoughts on the issue. This stuff is so cart before the wagon and vice versa it can make your head hurt :confused:

I am waiting on the HD DVD/ Bluray dust to settle and then I'll decide. Are there any reports on how the HLR 1080p look with HD DVD?

I have the HLR5668w 1080p Sammy and the picture quality with my Toshiba HD-A1 is by far the best image I have ever seen displayed on this rig. I like it so much that I find it very difficult now to watch standard DVD movies.

They got my light engine replaced yesterday and the shadow is gone. I had 1991 hours on the old engine when it was replaced. Didn't take too long, but the guy jostled the DMD board and the picture was running downhill right when the set came back on, so he had to adjust that.

I will be curious to see if I suffer the same LE failure again or not. At this point I am just happy I got the extra 4 year warranty. Still thrilled with the tv though.

Actually, now that I have gotten to spend some time with the set it looks like some of the flesh tones and bright spots are washing out, like it is too bright. The brighter spots on screen have an odd look to them that I haven't seen before. Has anyone else seen this, with or without a light engine change? It seems like I have read about this problem, but the thread has gotten so long I can't find it now.

And the hits just keep coming. The component inputs are shot now also. Colors are goofy and the picture is so bright that the speakers start buzzing. Called Samsung and let them know that the set is in worse shape now. Asked for a new repair company and they gave me the info and asked me to call and set-up an appointment. I will give them a call on Monday and let you guys know what this turns out to be.

I am wondering if it is the DMD board, because the tech was jacking around with it yesterday when he was here.

E

Just a follow up to this, I have another service visit being scheduled and this time it is with a different company. I will let you guys know what it turns out to be. I also ordered a service manual for myself.

E

Hey everyone. I'm finally going to have the means to purchase a Projection DLP TV. My first big screen. FINALLY!!! I'm still not trying to break the bank, but I want a good TV that I won't have to upgrade too soon. I'm looking at the Samsung HL-R5078W. I know Samsung has just released their "S" Series TV's, but I don't want to spend that much if I can avoid it. Is the 5078 still a good choice if I'm not wanting to get the latest greatest? Also I'm looking @ purchasing it from one of the recommended online stores from Shopping.com. Abes Of Maine has it for $1,938.00 shipping included & $2,227.00 with the stand: Shopping.Com's Listings for the HL-R5078W (http://www2.shopping.com/xPO-Samsung_HL_R5078W) Good move? Thanks in advance for the advice.

Charles
Hello all. Still need assistance with this. I figured this would be the best place to ask, since this is the owner's thread. Also, this is 2nd time I've heard of someone connecting their Xbox360 via the VGA port. What is the reason/advantage for doing this as opposed to connected via the component jacks? Any information you all can provide will be greatly appreciated...

Hello all. Still need assistance with this. I figured this would be the best place to ask, since this is the owner's thread. Also, this is 2nd time I've heard of someone connecting their Xbox360 via the VGA port. What is the reason/advantage for doing this as opposed to connected via the component jacks? Any information you all can provide will be greatly appreciated...

There were reports of lag (delay) using component inputs and no delay using the VGA input. I bought the $40 cable set, and hooked up my Xbox to VGA and it works great. Check the PC settings for your HLR VGA port. It took me less than 5 minutes.

Thanks for that info. Something to keep in mind when I finally get my TV.

I still need advice though on my original post. I've actually found the 5078 cheaper @ another online store. If buying online is discouraged & I have a $2,000 to $2,500 for TV & stand included, where should I be looking?

Hello all,

I've been out of this thread for quite some time so wanted to follow up with some info. I'm not sure if it's been posted by someone else. There were some posts way back describing an issue with a "hashmark" pattern running horizontally about a couple of inches from the top of the screen and pretty much the length of the TV. If the image was frozen and you looked very closely, the pattern had a reddish color to it.

After months and months of trying to get this resolved, it turned out to be a simple fix. The lens cover was replaced with a newer lens cover that has a smaller rectangular cutout. That was it. Problem solved. I still have an issue with the left side and bottom right corner being lighter than the rest of the TV in very dark scenes and I'm still working with Samsung on this but wanted to report on the "hashmark" fix.

Greetings:

Was just discussing HD with a buddy and thought I'd pop in and wish you all well. We had some good times back before the HLRxxx8's came out and hope you're all enjoying yours.

While I never ended up getting one, I moved to a projector in the similar price range and now have a spiffy 82" screen that I've been enjoying for about 5 months now :).

Cheers, hope all is well!

- D

Glad you stopped in! Good to hear that you are enjoying the projector. Hope everything is going well for you. :)

FLIPPERinNJ, you're right the hashmark has been reported and is fixed like you said. There were about two people that reported the fix worked. The LDL, Light, Dark, Light issue has also been reported fixed by a couple of people with another LE. I'd get that fixed.

Hey new2hometheater - How does the video look with the Xbox360 VGA cable? Have you downloaded any 720p movie trailers from the Xbox Live Marketplace? If so, how do they look compared to the component cable?

Thanks!

Hey new2hometheater - How does the video look with the Xbox360 VGA cable? Have you downloaded any 720p movie trailers from the Xbox Live Marketplace? If so, how do they look compared to the component cable?

Thanks!

I've downloaded a number of 720P trailers and the colors do looks washed out. I need to have my set calibrated. The colors look fine for games, but for the Spiderman trailers and the like they are a bit flat.

I've downloaded a number of 720P trailers and the colors do looks washed out. I need to have my set calibrated. The colors look fine for games, but for the Spiderman trailers and the like they are a bit flat.

You need to pop in the DVE disk into your Xbox 360 and adjust your contrast and brightness accordingly. Or, you can download the NBA Live 2006 demo and it has a test pattern in it that is pretty good for adjusting your contrast and brightness.

On my set I now play with my brightness at about 20-22 and contrast doesn't seem to make much difference on this DLP set....setting it anywhere between 75 to 100 yeilds about the same result.

Check out this thread way back when i was first figuring all this stuff out, start at my post #49:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=607650&page=2&pp=30

I have another better thread about this in another forum as well....I'm trying to find it...when/if I do I will post a link.....

Argh! I just started getting the left side shadow/stripe on my 6168. I walked in to talk to my wife who was watching some tv and there it was.

How much has service and a new light engine been costing? :mad:

It better be under warranty. As some have pointed out this has been a fairly common issue. Outside a warranty would be grounds for a recall.

Flipper,
I had my hashmark pattern fixed when they changed out my LE, and you are right it's a very simple fix, but I still wonder about that DMD shroud thing. You notice my Samsung is scr...ng me thread has disappeared.

To the people with the shadow appearing on the left side: what kind of stand are you using with your TV?

I ask this questions because my inlaws and myself both purchased a 6768 last September. They have the Samsung stand and their TV visibly bows on the stand and the silver base below the "floating screen" tends to bend up toward to the TV on the ends. They have the shadow

I don't have the shadow, but I also have my TV on a solid wood base. No warping of the bottom.

You hear lots of creaking with this set after turning if off due to the temp change and the plastic. I'm wondering if it all caused by a warping of some plastic somewhere.

Scott MS,

I have the shadow problem, and I am using a Salamander stand, which is a great product BTW.

To the people with the shadow appearing on the left side: what kind of stand are you using with your TV?

I ask this questions because my inlaws and myself both purchased a 6768 last September. They have the Samsung stand and their TV visibly bows on the stand and the silver base below the "floating screen" tends to bend up toward to the TV on the ends. They have the shadow

I don't have the shadow, but I also have my TV on a solid wood base. No warping of the bottom.

You hear lots of creaking with this set after turning if off due to the temp change and the plastic. I'm wondering if it all caused by a warping of some plastic somewhere.

I don’t believe the left side shadow is related to the stand. I also have the problem with a TV sitting on a flat surface (no foot). I’ve been watching the shadow grow on my TV over the past few weeks. When I first noticed the problem, there was no shadow at the top of the screen and about a half inch at the bottom. It’s now over 2 inches wide top to bottom and has the appearance of a piece of tape coming loose inside the light engine. I’m currently waiting for a new LE to arrive at the repair shop Samsung selected for me, since there are no Samsung service centers nearby. If it is a tape adhesion problem we can only hope that Samsung has either eliminated the tape or is using tape with a better adhesive in the rebuilt LEs.

Funny I had referred to it as duct tape. That would be nuts to use tape. I don't know what it is but as long as its fixed I guess I don't really care.

I don't think the stand should affect the set at all unless there is something wrong with the stand or you're not using the right stand. You can put the set on an end table but that isn't a good idea. lol. If you notice the plastic screen or form factor is warped I would call Samsung. The image is bowed and that is normal like this ) ( .

Thanks for that info. Something to keep in mind when I finally get my TV.

I still need advice though on my original post. I've actually found the 5078 cheaper @ another online store. If buying online is discouraged & I have a $2,000 to $2,500 for TV & stand included, where should I be looking?

Vann's (www.vanns.com) has the HLR's on sale. I just purchased the HL-R5678W for $2800.00. There are other sites that had it for less but, I bought from Vann's because it was a familiar name to me. I purchased the stand through Ebay for $20 cheaper and they were in stock. Vann's doesn't have the stand in stock and with shipping was $320. If you purchase the tv through Vann's they have a bundle with a free Logitech Harmony remote ($100+ value). Also, the shipping was free.

I love this tv. I'm still trying to figure out how to calibrate it, but out of the box my 360 looks awesome on it.

I don’t believe the left side shadow is related to the stand. I also have the problem with a TV sitting on a flat surface (no foot). I’ve been watching the shadow grow on my TV over the past few weeks. When I first noticed the problem, there was no shadow at the top of the screen and about a half inch at the bottom. It’s now over 2 inches wide top to bottom and has the appearance of a piece of tape coming loose inside the light engine. I’m currently waiting for a new LE to arrive at the repair shop Samsung selected for me, since there are no Samsung service centers nearby. If it is a tape adhesion problem we can only hope that Samsung has either eliminated the tape or is using tape with a better adhesive in the rebuilt LEs.

The real question is: what will Samsung do when an out-of-warranty HLR set needs service for the left side shadow problem? I predict that many, many people will face this situation very soon. By now, Samsung should be painfully aware that they really screwed up the HLR design in this respect. Why is this? Because they've been busy authorizing repairs for this problem left and right across the country. A tape coming loose inside the light engine? If this is really the case, they ought to be embarrassed.

Should Samsung agree to repair these TVs even though they are no longer under warranty? They really should because the left side shadow is a design flaw (oversight?) on their part. They are not required legally to repair TVs that are out of warranty even for systematic problems like the left side shadow. However, they should continue to fix this problem for the sake of their reputation. If this were a safety issue, all HLR sets would have been recalled by now.

I agree. When companies make it big with a product or model they jump over backwards to make the customer happy. When they find a problem and they're not making money I find they are always less likely to be there. Samsung has made a killing with these sets and I expect them to be there. More models are on the way and the last thing they need is any bad press over this or other DLP issues. I seriously doubt its tape but it does appear that way. You'd expect the stripe to be uniform or straight if a part or something got in the way of the light path. I expect Samsung to take care of its customers.

Sounds like it's not related to the stand, but rather some obstruction inside the light engine.

In the end, I assume the warping, unpeeling or whatever is obstructing the picture is caused by heat over time.

I haven't been here for a while, so I'm sorry if this has been discussed recently. The number of messages here makes checking back to see formidable.

When are the new Samsung models coming out. Last I heard was April, but apparently it's been pushed back. Anyone have info on when? Thanks!

tomcran,
You’ll find what you are looking for here.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=626669&page=1&pp=30

I have the HLR5078W. i was wondering if any of you have problems with large blocks of pixels? I have DirecTV with a HD Tivo receiver. When i say pixel blocks I mean when there is a fast moving scene the whole screen has large blocks maybe 1cm x 1cm. Is this normal with HD content? Upgraded from an HLP about 2 months ago and I don't recall having this problem. IS it more likely a receiver issue than a TV issue? Any help is appreciated.

CC delivered my new S5687W today! I could not get them down the Powerbuy price but they finally agreed to take 300 dollars off. Was happy a little stubborn haggling paid off. I had time to go home on my lunch hour for the delivery and hook my xbox 360 and play for a whole 5 minutes. :)

One question, if I set the 360 to 1080i will the Samsung deinterlace it to 1080p "automagically"?

thanx
PM1K

Wiggin78, that sounds like a receiver issue. I see that more often when playing back the DVR. I have Comsucks. Me and my friend each went through two STBs. They might give you a hard time depending on the promotion or your contract. I extended my contract in order to get a new box from Dish and my mother did the same for Direct. That's the main reason for me and my friend to not go satellite. That and they don't have a promo for two HD STBs on one account. I heard they have the new receivers now so that is tempting.

"automagically"?
Yep.

I have the HLR5078W. i was wondering if any of you have problems with large blocks of pixels? I have DirecTV with a HD Tivo receiver. When i say pixel blocks I mean when there is a fast moving scene the whole screen has large blocks maybe 1cm x 1cm. Is this normal with HD content? Upgraded from an HLP about 2 months ago and I don't recall having this problem. IS it more likely a receiver issue than a TV issue? Any help is appreciated.

I also have DirecTV with the HD Tivo receiver and I don't experience any large blocks of pixels like you describe.

I have the same shadow problem (see attached image).
Problem appeared at ~1800 hours. I opened the holes on the side after I saw it appear. At first I thought that maybe the mirror in the corresponding corner had become loose and come off the back of the tv, but after reading the posts here I guess it's a more complicated problem.

A bit off-topic: I called Samsung and they want me to fax them an invoice before scheduling the repair, but I don't quite know what to send. All I have are the emails that tvauthority sent me (I got in on the powerbuy) and the Seko airbill. Is there something specific they want?

Thanks

I have the same shadow problem (see attached image).

A bit off-topic: I called Samsung and they want me to fax them an invoice before scheduling the repair, but I don't quite know what to send. All I have are the emails that tvauthority sent me (I got in on the powerbuy) and the Seko airbill. Is there something specific they want?

Thanks


I think you got a confused first level customer service person. The TV is less than a year old, which means there should be no question about the warrantee. I assume you registered your warrantee with Samsung. If you didn’t that my cause some confusion but I’m sure they will honor the 1 year warrantee. When I called them a couple weeks ago about the same problem they were very accommodating.

I had my light engine replaced today for the left side shadow. Because I live in a somewhat rural area, Samsung contracted a nearby TV service shop, which does not have any color correction equipment. To say the least I was not comfortable with the idea, since the service manual says color correction is required after a LE replacement. The service technician was planning to replace the LE and restore the TV to the default service menu settings. Since many of the service menu default settings are significantly different than the factory settings for my set, I thought this would have been a shot in the dark at best. When I confronted the service tech about the color correction requirement, he suggested swapping the color wheels between the two LEs, because most of the color correction requirement is related to the individual color wheels. I’m very happy with the results. I was very happy with the TV’s picture quality prior to the left side shadow and I am just as happy after the LE replacement. I suggest this strategy be considered for anyone having a LE replaced by someone that does not have color correction equipment.

HighonHD, I would call them back and speak with someone else. I don't think you need an invoice and you certainly don't need to fax them anything. I didn't register until after the service I think? You might need the serial number. Try them again and tell them you need a service call. They have been very thorough and efficient. My call was the next day.

Well with the problems that popped up after the light engine replacement, my 6178 was picked up by a different TV repair shop on Friday. I was expecting an in house repair, but they said with all the trouble they wanted to take it to the shop, so I let them. Spoke to them yesterday and relayed all the new issues and they said they would begin working on it that day. I also liked hearing that they could not work on it Tuesday, due to Samsung training, but would be back on it Wednesday. It is killing me not to have it so we have called and we are going to rent a new big screen HDTV until this is fixed if they can't have it back by Friday.

Who would have thought the original repair guys would do more damage than good?

I will update you guys when I know better what is going on.

Errett, I can't tell you how much that pisses me off. First, I forget what issues you had? There is no reason for anyone to remove the set period. There are very few parts that need to be replaced and none of them are ever repaired. The set is very modular and is designed for easy part replacement. If you had new problems after a LE then the new LE needs to be replaced. I need a third LE. There were about three others that had defective replacement LEs. What were the original issues and the new ones? I'd say most likely its the LE. How long after the service call did you get new issues? Don't sign anything and don't let them leave until you examine the set for damage a few times. I wouldn't be concerned about needing another service call since they won't be able to fix anything on the spot and another call is free anyway.

Established: The only way to have the Samsung HLRxxx8W DLP models accept a 1080p source is thru the VGA port.
Question: Are there any sources out there beside BluRay, including media PCs, that can generate a 1080p signal? If BluRay is the only option, is there a way to get that signal to the TV thru the VGA port? Would a simple cable and port converter combo to connect HDMI from the BluRay DVD player to VGA port on TV work? Just curious. Thanks.

Errett, I can't tell you how much that pisses me off. First, I forget what issues you had? There is no reason for anyone to remove the set period. There are very few parts that need to be replaced and none of them are ever repaired. The set is very modular and is designed for easy part replacement. If you had new problems after a LE then the new LE needs to be replaced. I need a third LE. There were about three others that had defective replacement LEs. What were the original issues and the new ones? I'd say most likely its the LE. How long after the service call did you get new issues? Don't sign anything and don't let them leave until you examine the set for damage a few times. I wouldn't be concerned about needing another service call since they won't be able to fix anything on the spot and another call is free anyway.

My original issue was the shadow down the left side. LE had 1991 hours on it when it was replaced. I explained to the service company what the problem was and what the fix was, but they insisted on sending someone out. I didn't care for the first company immediately because the tech put his tools down on the piano black finish on the top of one of my speakers sitting next to the tv, but I let it go and let them work on it. When he came to change the LE, he got the job done but I cringed the whole time. He used an 18v cordless drill to remove any screw that needed to come out and then when something was hung between the DMD and LE, he first asked me for needle nose pliers and when I went to get them I heard him force the LE out and he hollars, "Nevermind!" Once he got it put back together the picture was running downhill left so I had to call him back to correct that. When he got back he got really frustrated trying to get the picture aligned and so when he got it close I told him to leave it and it would be okay.

The next morning I noticed that on any brighter spots on the picture, all the detail was washed out, so I called Samsung back and they said to do a factory reset on the tv by unplugging it from the wall and then holding the power button down for 30 seconds. No good, so I called back and got another appointment booked with another company. About that time I noticed that when I went to the component inputs for my 360, not all the colors were there and the picture had red and green lines running through it. The new service company didn't tell me they were taking the tv until they got to the house. I thought they were coming to repair it in home.

Don't know what will happen next, but I will find out tomorrow.

E

Established: The only way to have the Samsung HLRxxx8W DLP models accept a 1080p source is thru the VGA port.
Question: Are there any sources out there beside BluRay, including media PCs, that can generate a 1080p signal? If BluRay is the only option, is there a way to get that signal to the TV thru the VGA port? Would a simple cable and port converter combo to connect HDMI from the BluRay DVD player to VGA port on TV work? Just curious. Thanks.
Where was that established? I thought you could do 1080p over component as well as HDMI and have it display on the Samsung TVs.

Where was that established? I thought you could do 1080p over component as well as HDMI and have it display on the Samsung TVs.HL-R's are spec'd for 1080p over VGA only. HL-S's are spec'd for 1080p over HDMI for sure and I believe component & VGA.

Would a simple cable and port converter combo to connect HDMI from the BluRay DVD player to VGA port on TV work? Just curious. This might not have any relevance to the specific question but it does deal with a failed experiment I tried using a Component To VGA Converter with the HL-R5678. I was using my portable to display calibration patterns on the TV via the VGA port. Out of curiosity, I wondered what the pattern would look like if displayed on the TV via VGA with my old DVD player (480i over component). Well, I got my hands on a Key Digital Systems KD-CTCA3 Component To VGA Adapter which will take a YPbPr component signal and convert it to a HV or "green" sync'd VGA signal. I disconnented the component input running from the DVD player to the TV at the TV, hooked in the converter and plugged the cable from the output of the converter into the TV's VGA port. All I got was "Mode not Supported." Then, I found out that most Component to VGA converters can not work with a 480i input because the frequency is too low for some standard. So, I tried using the converter with 720p and 1080i signals from my STB. Still all I got was the "Mode not suppoted" message. The converter was spec'd to handle up to 1080i signals. So, I have no idea (not even close to having sufficient knowledge about color signals, etc) why it did not work. My guess is that the display needs a "computer" signal and the signals I fed it via the converter lacked something. FWIW.

I'm having my LE replaced next week due to a shadow on the left side -- has anyone noticed variance in the size of the shadow from day to day? When I first noticed it, it was 1 - 1.5 inches; then 2 days later, it was only .25 - .5 inches in width...Very odd.

I never heard anyone report that. It is interesting though since we don't know what is in the light path causing the problem. I don't think anyone had it happen while they were watching TV either. Everyone notices it the next time they watch TV. I wonder if there is a reason for that?

Just got an update on my set and Samsung wants them to replace the color wheel and you guessed it....the color wheel is on backorder. They don't know when the part will be available, so I am calling to rent an HD set for the next couple of weeks.

I shall update when I hear more.

E

Jrico, this thread is full of issues. Most people have the same issues though and the parts involved are few. Samsung has the best customer service though. Most people had their set fixed the next day or within a week. Any problems beyond that like living in a rural area where there isn't a service center around would apply to any brand you get. I never heard that these sets are less reliable than any other DLP? The next generation uses LED instead of a lamp so that makes a difference.

Newbie here, I am interested in getting the HLR-6178/ 68W but I 'm curious as to the longevity of reliablity in these models. This will be our first non-Sony TV( just can't afford the SXRD) and I am concerned. I've never had a problem with any of our Tvs and one is pushing 13 years. Can ya'll share any experiences good and bad? Thanks

Several of us on this thread came to Samsung after giving up on Sony's SXRD. I went through three of them, and others had even worse luck. Either out of box, or later after appearing to be cherry at first, they had permanent green globs, purplish blacks, etc. Many of these units are probably fine, but it is clearly the luck of the draw, and endless exchanges are a hassle.

If you read this Samsung HL-R thread, you'll observe a few prominent problems (side shadow, cross-hatch, or light/dark/light patterns). However, most report excellent Samsung service, during which the modular design becomes evident as the light engine or a board or two is exchanged. A recent post about back-ordered color wheels is troublesome, however.

Had the SXRD actually worked properly, I would have preferred the PQ to Sammy's (not to mention much more refined menus, audio routing, side-by-side dual views rather than PIP, yada yada). However, the Sammy can provide a great experience (once you venture inside the service menu and defeat DNIe :-).

Good luck!

Errett, you were nice enough to let them remove the set. Was the set watchable at all when it needed service? Now that they know what they need to fix it, I would have them return the set in one piece, with everything installed. I can't see you renting a set, get yours back. I'd say at least 90% of the service needed would still allow you to watch the set. I wouldn't want the liability or cost of renting a set when yours should be at least watchable. Are you sure it is a color wheel you need and not another LE? I'd double check that here or elsewhere. I'd hate to go through all of this if they ordered the wrong part. I'm ticked while I sit here with my working 5678. lol

Errett, you were nice enough to let them remove the set. Was the set watchable at all when it needed service? Now that they know what they need to fix it, I would have them return the set in one piece, with everything installed. I can't see you renting a set, get yours back. I'd say at least 90% of the service needed would still allow you to watch the set. I wouldn't want the liability or cost of renting a set when yours should be at least watchable. Are you sure it is a color wheel you need and not another LE? I'd double check that here or elsewhere. I'd hate to go through all of this if they ordered the wrong part. I'm ticked while I sit here with my working 5678. lol

The set was watchable, but I could not play my 360 on it. I am really not sure it is the color wheel because there are two different problems depending on what input you are on. I really think it has something to do with the DMD board.

I went ahead and rented a brand new 52" JVC HD-ILA set to see what it is like. Not too bad, I got it for a month for $200. I had never rented anything but a car before and man do they ask you some wierd questions when you rent a TV!

I am not at all happy about the situation, but I hope that when it comes back it is completely repaired. They need to hope that is the case also, because I am really good at wearing people out over stuff like this.

E

I got my 6187!! set is awesome. one call delivered a day early, and the dude helped me bring the set inside so i rewarded him with a fat tip. hard as hell to unpack it solo, i managed tho.

heres things i noticed about pq

RBE and sse
some noticable rainbowswith whites sweeping across blacks. some glittery whites, lowering brightness and using movie mode mitigated this.
no big deal...

1080p over HDMI from hd960 dvd player:
wasnt that that impressed with 1080p upconversion. 480 source is 480 source regardless of whats on the screen. lines werent as clear as with the hd sources.
I havent played with the options on the player, might try it soon. divx player is nice, i noticed the blockies on my 19"tube so im afraid to see it on 61". The player will suffice til i make a decision on BR/HDDVD. or i might return it and get a cheapo one
dont freak out if u see skipping on the HD feeds, just rewind 5 secs once or twice (as a buffer) and all will be smoothed.. I actually like watching sports now!

SD signals:
looked horrible in comparison to the HD, obviously


HD broadcasts:
i was amazed with the PQ of the HD broadcasts. i cant wait to get a real 1080 source on there. there is some serious potential here.

VGA:
TBA

The only people who have had problems with their service were those who let their set be picked up and those who let them get the runaround when the techs didn't know how to fix their issue. I would stay on them and don't take any BS. I hope you get your set back fixed and soon. Let us know how the JVC compares.

i bought a 5668 and a 6768 from tvauthority when they first shipped almost a year ago. i haven't had any problems with either one, knock on wood, and i do watch quite a bit of tv at night on the 67.

Last time I've been here was about, oh, 50 pages ago in Dec and I wanted to see what was being discussed about the HL-R5688W.

I've read the last several pages so far and could not find anything about this particular model. The "search thread" engine has never been much help. It seems to link to every model number except the one I'm looking for:(

Soooo, if you can forgive my self-serving lazyarse question:), can anyone remember any problems with this model in this thread? I'm not asking for specific links. I would just like to know if I need to read through everything since last December to find any relevant info.

Thanks in advance:)

Last time I've been here was about, oh, 50 pages ago in Dec and I wanted to see what was being discussed about the HL-R5688W.

I've read the last several pages so far and could not find anything about this particular model. The "search thread" engine has never been much help. It seems to link to every model number except the one I'm looking for:(

Soooo, if you can forgive my self-serving lazyarse question:), can anyone remember any problems with this model in this thread? I'm not asking for specific links. I would just like to know if I need to read through everything since last December to find any relevant info.

Thanks in advance:)

I really don't think there are any specific problems associated with particular models....in other words, whether you have a 56" model or a 61" or a 67" they all have the same technology and are prone to the same problems. I've never heard anyone say that only the 56" models have such and such a problem for instance.

Last time I've been here was about, oh, 50 pages ago in Dec and I wanted to see what was being discussed about the HL-R5688W.

I've read the last several pages so far and could not find anything about this particular model. The "search thread" engine has never been much help. It seems to link to every model number except the one I'm looking for:(

Soooo, if you can forgive my self-serving lazyarse question:), can anyone remember any problems with this model in this thread? I'm not asking for specific links. I would just like to know if I need to read through everything since last December to find any relevant info.

Thanks in advance:)
The 5688w's are built differently than the others and I've read, tho never verified, that they use a different screen and few other things which give it the best pic of the 56" ers. I have one and so far, so good. I have seen one problem with a DMD board but that was immediately after delivery. Other than that I haven't seen many negative comments, maybe because there are fewer around, but maybe they are less problematic. It is a great TV with excellent picture quality.

Wasn't there some audio issues with them? There are some differences with the pedestal model right, that's the one?

Wasn't there some audio issues with them? There are some differences with the pedestal model right, that's the one?
It is the pedestal. I don't know of any audio problems with them. I have not had any problems, I use the optical out to the optical in on my receiver and experience no audio sync problems. Maybe someone else with one can comment on their experience also so more than just my one opinion is offered.

You could try the search on the top for "pedestal." I know it has been discussed and I think it had more to do with the differences in audio between the 88 and the others. I don't recall any issues related to service that was different than the others, if there were it was maybe one.

I have almost 4000 hours on my 88 and thank the DLP gods have not had any problems.I do notice an audio fluctuation at times so I blame the source of course lol.

Shadow update --

Lastest update on the shadow and it's pretty bizzare. I used to have a 1" to 1.5 " shadow on the left side of the screen. TV repair guy said I need a new LE. Scheduled repair for this Wednesday. Couple days ago, the shadow got smaller -- Now the shadow is gone all together! Very odd. Am I the only person who had a shadow that has come and gone?

I wonder if the TV repair guy will bust my chops over a new LE when he comes to replace it this Wednesday.

Give me some feed back if you have experienced similar.

Scott

OK, well I got my light engine replaced last Thursday for the left hand shadow problem. Both Samsung support and the repair company were fast and cordial.

The tech at Samsung I fisrt talked to didn't know exactly what I was talking about, but after a "hold on a sec while I check..." It was obvious this was a known problem.

The repair tech who came in said that this was probably due to heat and one of the six (I think he said six) larger mirrors probably has some glue come slightly loose and knock off the alignment barely, producing the shadow.

Of course, after the light engine replacement ( and a hour of me recalibrating it ). Looks great! I'm thinking I might buy a small, quiet fan to blow the heat away from the rear.

Anonunrama, I haven't heard of that, I guess you're lucky. I wouldn't bother having them replace something that doesn't need replacing. You know they'll fix it right away if and when they need to. In other words, getting a service call that isn't needed might be a bad idea.

Darkmark, it isn't necessary to add an additional fan. You do need to have air circulation if your set is in a cabinet. I don't think your tech. was right about glue on the mirrors. lol. Was it Elmer's? lol.

What is the consensus on which DVD player out is the best to use with HLR line? I have a 61" and am looking for a new DVD player. I have read some posts early on in this thread and seems many suffer from macro blocking.

Any ideas on to which is the best is greatly appreciated

I'd go HD-DVD at this rate? I can't see buying a new, obsolete DVD player? I know HD/BR DVD is still up in the air so I'd either hold off and keep what you have or go HD.

OK, well I got my light engine replaced last Thursday for the left hand shadow problem. Both Samsung support and the repair company were fast and cordial.

The tech at Samsung I fisrt talked to didn't know exactly what I was talking about, but after a "hold on a sec while I check..." It was obvious this was a known problem.

The repair tech who came in said that this was probably due to heat and one of the six (I think he said six) larger mirrors probably has some glue come slightly loose and knock off the alignment barely, producing the shadow.

Of course, after the light engine replacement ( and a hour of me recalibrating it ). Looks great! I'm thinking I might buy a small, quiet fan to blow the heat away from the rear.

I recently had my light engine replaced for the same problem. The picture was rather dark and when I tried to calibrete it I had to go to the system menu and raise the subcontrast to get it to come anywhere close to where it should be. It is looking pretty good now, there is a 1/2" rise in the lower left which only bothers me when I think about it. I do have one question.

In the System Menu on the GM1601 page there is a Gamma on and off setting mine was set to off but the picture does brighten when I switch it on. I was not here when the tech worked on the set so do not know if he changed anything, what is the default for that setting? Does anyone know if it affects the other gamma settings?

In the System Menu on the GM1601 page there is a Gamma on and off setting ..., what is the default for that setting?According to service manual, default is "Off." Don't know whether or how it interacts with other gamma.

What is the consensus on which DVD player out is the best to use with HLR line? I have a 61" and am looking for a new DVD player. I have read some posts early on in this thread and seems many suffer from macro blocking.

Any ideas on to which is the best is greatly appreciated

Read post #4 of this thread. UCSB put together an impressive write-up for many DVD players with the HLR series.

Read post #4 of this thread. UCSB put together an impressive write-up for many DVD players with the HLR series.


I did see that, but at the bottom it says it hasn't been updated since Oct. 05'!?! :(

I'd go HD-DVD at this rate? I can't see buying a new, obsolete DVD player? I know HD/BR DVD is still up in the air so I'd either hold off and keep what you have or go HD.


I'd probably go Blue-ray/DVD going that route, price is just a bit high now at $999 for a player.

My HL-R5688 had a simple (sounding) problem from day 1. The blue LEDs on the pedestal don't light up. It took 3 calls to Samsung service to get their local (NJ) support organization to return my calls.

I've now had a tech out of Samsung HQ in NJ out 2 times and he has been unable to resolve the problem. He is coming back tomorrow to try again.

Otherwise, the set is great but it amazes me how difficult it can be to resolve a small issue.

Here's some screenshots of my hl-r5678w

http://www.mtcnet.net/~henryvm/hlr/

This tv has a great picture when viewing a good hd source. I happened to catch the end of a recent csi miami episode(cbs 1080i), where h was in a cemetary- it looked as if I was actually there- I guess you would say '3D'. Of course not all shows look this good, but on this set I think the limiting factor is going to be the source and not the tv. I like 1080p.

I purchased this set as a freight damaged tv, the mirror and inner screen were replaced by the freight company, but the lens has a scratch on it (I assume as a result of mirror breaking), which shows up as a dark/fuzzy spot in upper left(not bad). They also had an hl-r6168 that had screens busted and a bad 'board'. The lamp was good and lens had no scratches, so I purchased this one also for a little more than the price of a lamp. I hope to use the lens from the 6168 and put it in the 5678. Service manuals are on order, so will see how many parts are interchangable between these two sets.

I like these sets because of the tv guide on-screen (it actually works with my cable system), firewire i/o,dual hdmi inputs,pc input.

One question- if anyone knows- is there a way to change channels via rs-232? I'm looking at the 'rs232' sheet that came with it, but do not see a command to change channels. Seems odd you can change picture,sound,inputs,volume but not change channels. Maybe I'm looking right at it, but I don't see it.

As mentioned elsewhere, I purchased an HLR5078W yesterday. Right now I have it connected to an Audio Authority 1154A component video switcher via component 1. Of course, all of them are connected via component cables. The devices connected to it:

Gamecube
Playstation 2
Xbox
Sony progressive scan DVD player (don't have the model number)

I have played several games on it, as well as watched parts of a few DVDs and can't seem to perceive any noticable delay. All the games I've played responded fluidly and I didn't see anything like voices out of sync in the DVDs.


Games:

Devil May Cry (PS2)
Viewtiful Joe: Red Hot Rumble (GC)
Jaws Unleashed (Xbox)

DVDs:

Disney's Duck Tales
Men in Black
Spider-Man
Total Recall

I have seen a 'so fast it's barely there' flicker that I know isn't a rainbow three times when using different devices, but that might just be the connection in the back. It was plugged in kind of hastily. Is the sync issue something that effects all the non-pedestal HLR series and I'm just not picking up on, or does it effect certain models or individual sets more than others? I have not tried any of the other ports, since I don't have any HDMI devices, so I can't speak for anything other than component.

A little tip for 1080p owners- if you have a source that lets you select 1080i/720p (such as a sat box/catv box/etc), make sure its set to 1080i as it makes a big difference for 1080 source programming. I have been switching sat box between several tv's and keep forgetting to set it back to 1080i for this set. I notice after awhile its not as sharp as before, then press info button and see '1280x720', which makes a light bulb go off in my head.

WoW! These pictures look stunning. Can you enlighten us on what you are using to feed the TV - sat box or cable ? Or is this OTA? Have you had this TV caliberated or done some tuning yourself?

I ask because I don't believe my 6168 looks this good with my Moto 6412 Mark III STB.

Thanks!


Here's some screenshots of my hl-r5678w

http://www.mtcnet.net/~henryvm/hlr/

This tv has a great picture when viewing a good hd source. I happened to catch the end of a recent csi miami episode(cbs 1080i), where h was in a cemetary- it looked as if I was actually there- I guess you would say '3D'. Of course not all shows look this good, but on this set I think the limiting factor is going to be the source and not the tv. I like 1080p.

I purchased this set as a freight damaged tv, the mirror and inner screen were replaced by the freight company, but the lens has a scratch on it (I assume as a result of mirror breaking), which shows up as a dark/fuzzy spot in upper left(not bad). They also had an hl-r6168 that had screens busted and a bad 'board'. The lamp was good and lens had no scratches, so I purchased this one also for a little more than the price of a lamp. I hope to use the lens from the 6168 and put it in the 5678. Service manuals are on order, so will see how many parts are interchangable between these two sets.

I like these sets because of the tv guide on-screen (it actually works with my cable system), firewire i/o,dual hdmi inputs,pc input.

One question- if anyone knows- is there a way to change channels via rs-232? I'm looking at the 'rs232' sheet that came with it, but do not see a command to change channels. Seems odd you can change picture,sound,inputs,volume but not change channels. Maybe I'm looking right at it, but I don't see it.

i have to agree. even with the crappy 20 year old monitor i have at work, the colors and clarity of those shots come through. my 6168 doesn't look that good, even with uncompressed ota.

also what dvr is that?

i have to agree. even with the crappy 20 year old monitor i have at work, the colors and clarity of those shots come through. my 6168 doesn't look that good, even with uncompressed ota.

also what dvr is that?

My 5078 doesn't look that good either. Do tell.

Anyone have an answer to my post?

These shots were taken with the set hooked up to a dish 942(hd dvr). No calibration, straight 'out of the box'. Hooked up via hdmi.

Most shots were from disc-hd or rave.

Have not watched much network hd yet (using cable/qam/unencrypted locals). Watched some nba on tnthd- looks awesome, especially when they have camera shots from the floor level.

SD programming- looks ok, but is hard to watch when you get used to hd.

Here is my other set-
http://www.mtcnet.net/~henryvm/lc2600n/
awesome (little) tv

Anyone have an answer to my post?
My advice is ... if you don't see a sync problem, stop looking for it NOW. Once you teach yourself to see it, it will become very annoying. You will then have to fix it, which could be expensive given your components. It affects all models, but can vary in intensity based on any additional delay being inserted by your components. The perception of the viewer is really the big variable. The longer you watch your HDTV the better you will become at picking up on the problem.

My advice is ... if you don't see a sync problem, stop looking for it NOW. Once you teach yourself to see it, it will become very annoying. You will then have to fix it, which could be expensive given your components. It affects all models, but can vary in intensity based on any additional delay being inserted by your components. The perception of the viewer is really the big variable. The longer you watch your HDTV the better you will become at picking up on the problem.

Well, considering what a great price I got on this set, I wouldn't want that to happen. :D

Maybe my inability to detect any delay is related to the fact that all the devices are connected via component. I'll try connecting my Dreamcast using composite once I get home and see if it becomes more obvious.

These shots were taken with the set hooked up to a dish 942(hd dvr). No calibration, straight 'out of the box'. Hooked up via hdmi.

Most shots were from disc-hd or rave.

Have not watched much network hd yet (using cable/qam/unencrypted locals). Watched some nba on tnthd- looks awesome, especially when they have camera shots from the floor level.

SD programming- looks ok, but is hard to watch when you get used to hd.

Here is my other set-
http://www.mtcnet.net/~henryvm/lc2600n/
awesome (little) tv

I use HDMI as well and my TV is not caliberated either. But, I really can't believe the depth and clarity in your photos. Wow - maybe I should smash up my TV with a baseball bat or something to get it close to your performance. :p

i think i figured out the difference between those shots and my calibrated tv.

i don't watch much stuff that is recorded with hd cameras. i tend to watch movies so i am very used to watching things with that film quality, instead of 3d look.

those shots i think are of material recorded with hd cameras which always has that pop. it wouldn't be fare to compare it to hd-net since we know Direct compresses the heck out of that channel. the only ota material that i have watch that is recorded with hd cameras is football and basketball, and doesn't look as good as those shots. maybe because it was originally in 720p?

i think i figured out the difference between those shots and my calibrated tv.

i don't watch much stuff that is recorded with hd cameras. i tend to watch movies so i am very used to watching things with that film quality, instead of 3d look.

those shots i think are of material recorded with hd cameras which always has that pop. it wouldn't be fare to compare it to hd-net since we know Direct compresses the heck out of that channel. the only ota material that i have watch that is recorded with hd cameras is football and basketball, and doesn't look as good as those shots. maybe because it was originally in 720p?

I mostly watch broadcast TV (Lost, Sopranos, CSI-NY etc) on Comcast and I don't see the clarity he is showing in those pictures. I do see terrific depth in movies when I play them on my laptop via VGA to the TV at 1080p.

Still can't figure out what magic he did.

most broadcast material i don't think is recorded with hd-cameras. i think it's filmed the traditional way and then hd prints are made through some sort of scanning process.

the exception is sports which obviously happens in real time.

if you tune to hdnet on directv it should like what he posted, but it's known that direct heavily compresses their hd channels.

i also think the 78 series has better calibration controls, but i am not sure. in any case, he says his isn't calibrated.

These shots were taken with the set hooked up to a dish 942(hd dvr). No calibration, straight 'out of the box'. Hooked up via hdmi.

Most shots were from disc-hd or rave.

Have not watched much network hd yet (using cable/qam/unencrypted locals). Watched some nba on tnthd- looks awesome, especially when they have camera shots from the floor level.

SD programming- looks ok, but is hard to watch when you get used to hd.

Here is my other set-
http://www.mtcnet.net/~henryvm/lc2600n/
awesome (little) tv

Maybe it's the quality of the digital camera you are using that makes your pictures appear so amazing to us??? Maybe the camera is just making it seem as if your HDTV is actually producing a better picture than ours but it really isn't??? I say that because all your pics look amazing, on either of your TV's, and regardless of whether it appears to be SD or HD.

What resolution are these pics (and the pics in your original post for the 56" Samsung)?

Maybe it's the quality of the digital camera you are using that makes your pictures appear so amazing to us??? Maybe the camera is just making it seem as if your HDTV is actually producing a better picture than ours but it really isn't??? I say that because all your pics look amazing, on either of your TV's, and regardless of whether it appears to be SD or HD.

What resolution are these pics (and the pics in your original post for the 56" Samsung)?

I thought of this but I can't imagine any Digi Cam that will make the subject appear so much better than reality. ;) Unless of course, there is some Photoshopping going on here - which I suppose is possible but is it probable?

I thought of this but I can't imagine any Digi Cam that will make the subject appear so much better than reality. ;) Unless of course, there is some Photoshopping going on here - which I suppose is possible but is it probable?

Well let's say we take our 1920 X 1080 pixels that are now being presented to us on a 61" screen (or whatever size your particular set is) and now capture those same pixels and compress them into a 6" picture. The 6" picture still has 1920 X 1080 pixels displayed in a much smaller space and would theoretically appear much clearer and crisper.

I don't know what's going on, but it just seems odd to me that he happened to get some one-in-a-million holy grail of a TV that is producing pictures much better than all of ours that are the exact same technology. I'm just trying to find a rational explanation.

on the smaller screen and using a pc i can see why the shots look so good.

on the 56 inch screen i believe that those channels are showing material filmed with hd cameras, not simply transferred, and that they are probably coming from the Voom (which Dish acquired) satellites which I believe didn't use compression.

somebody here surely knows more than me about this :)

on the smaller screen and using a pc i can see why the shots look so good.

on the 56 inch screen i believe that those channels are showing material filmed with hd cameras, not simply transferred, and that they are probably coming from the Voom (which Dish acquired) satellites which I believe didn't use compression.

somebody here surely knows more than me about this :)

That would be a good reason to switch to Dish N/W if they are not compressing their HD feeds. Can someone that uses DISH confirm that they are seeing as good pictures as are evident in these jealousy-inducing pictures? :)