Camera is an Olympus D-595 5megapixel, pictures resized from 1600x1200 to 800x600, no photoshopping, just resized in FastStone Image Viewer. The room was dark, with only the light coming from the tv.

Was thinking about not posting these pictures (samsung) because I was not very happy the way they turned out. I had to set camera on a box because of slow shutter speed(didn't want flash).

I don't really know if camera is showing better/worse than 'true', but the set does look very good in 'real life'.

I think alot has to do with the programming, as I can't imagine my set is any different than anybody elses. Maybe the shots I chose were from shows that had a 'good process' from start to finish.

Am watching nba on tnthd(dish)- looks very good.

Camera is an Olympus D-595 5megapixel, pictures resized from 1600x1200 to 800x600, no photoshopping, just resized in FastStone Image Viewer. The room was dark, with only the light coming from the tv.

Was thinking about not posting these pictures (samsung) because I was not very happy the way they turned out. I had to set camera on a box because of slow shutter speed(didn't want flash).

I don't really know if camera is showing better/worse than 'true', but the set does look very good in 'real life'.

I think alot has to do with the programming, as I can't imagine my set is any different than anybody elses. Maybe the shots I chose were from shows that had a 'good process' from start to finish.

Am watching nba on tnthd(dish)- looks very good.

Please post some pictures of regular network programming like Lost/CSI etc so I can feel good about you having the same quality as me. :D

I think alot has to do with the programming, as I can't imagine my set is any different than anybody elses. Maybe the shots I chose were from shows that had a 'good process' from start to finish.

Am watching nba on tnthd(dish)- looks very good.

Do you have DNIe turned off or are you using factory defaults?

Shadow update --

Lastest update on the shadow and it's pretty bizzare. I used to have a 1" to 1.5 " shadow on the left side of the screen. TV repair guy said I need a new LE. Scheduled repair for this Wednesday. Couple days ago, the shadow got smaller -- Now the shadow is gone all together! Very odd. Am I the only person who had a shadow that has come and gone?

I wonder if the TV repair guy will bust my chops over a new LE when he comes to replace it this Wednesday.

Give me some feed back if you have experienced similar.

Scott

That is exactly what happened to my HLR6768...the left-side shadow disappeared after about a week. The service technician had already come out and diagnosed the problem and a new LE was already on order. I did not bother to try and stop the replacement of the LE, because the shadow could reappear at any time. Who knows?

Shadow update --

Lastest update on the shadow and it's pretty bizzare. I used to have a 1" to 1.5 " shadow on the left side of the screen. TV repair guy said I need a new LE. Scheduled repair for this Wednesday. Couple days ago, the shadow got smaller -- Now the shadow is gone all together! Very odd. Am I the only person who had a shadow that has come and gone?

I wonder if the TV repair guy will bust my chops over a new LE when he comes to replace it this Wednesday.

Give me some feed back if you have experienced similar.

Scott

Scott,
I also had the shadow appear and then a couple days later it disappeared. This happened several months ago. Just last week, however, it has shown up again. :mad: I have about 2100hrs on my set.

Here's some screenshots of my hl-r5678w

http://www.mtcnet.net/~henryvm/hlr/

This tv has a great picture when viewing a good hd source. I happened to catch the end of a recent csi miami episode(cbs 1080i), where h was in a cemetary- it looked as if I was actually there- I guess you would say '3D'. Of course not all shows look this good, but on this set I think the limiting factor is going to be the source and not the tv. I like 1080p.

I purchased this set as a freight damaged tv, the mirror and inner screen were replaced by the freight company, but the lens has a scratch on it (I assume as a result of mirror breaking), which shows up as a dark/fuzzy spot in upper left(not bad). They also had an hl-r6168 that had screens busted and a bad 'board'. The lamp was good and lens had no scratches, so I purchased this one also for a little more than the price of a lamp. I hope to use the lens from the 6168 and put it in the 5678. Service manuals are on order, so will see how many parts are interchangable between these two sets.

I like these sets because of the tv guide on-screen (it actually works with my cable system), firewire i/o,dual hdmi inputs,pc input.

One question- if anyone knows- is there a way to change channels via rs-232? I'm looking at the 'rs232' sheet that came with it, but do not see a command to change channels. Seems odd you can change picture,sound,inputs,volume but not change channels. Maybe I'm looking right at it, but I don't see it.

Yeah, that dark spot caused by the scratch would drive me nuts...other than that the picture looks very good!

I wanted to chime in here about the quality of those photos. I also have a Dish 942 hooked up to my 6768 that has the velux treatment and my calibration from DVE discs. The voom channels and the Disc HD channels and the HD Showtime HBO channels all have that similar quality and look very good and show the realism that was posted. I have OTA HD coming in from an antenna and Jay Leno in HD with HD cameras looks amazing. Also watching SNL in HD is the same, amazing PQ, literally you get distracted from all of the details on the set and the actors hairs out of place and such. I am very impressed with the PQ on my 6768 despite the past quality issues I had when I first purchased it.

This is probably a noob question, but how do you get to the service menu on the HL-R5678W?
I've tried the Power, Mute, 1, 8, 2, Power, but it doesn't work for me. Any help would be appreciated.

This is probably a noob question, but how do you get to the service menu on the HL-R5678W?
I've tried the Power, Mute, 1, 8, 2, Power, but it doesn't work for me. Any help would be appreciated.

Straight from the service manual-

1. Turn off the power to put the unit into STAND-BY mode.
2. In order to enter the Service Mode, Press "Mute"->"1"->"8"->"2"->"POWER" button on the Remote Control. In case entry into SERVICE MODE is unsuccessful, repeat the procedures above.


Do you have DNIe turned off or are you using factory defaults?

DNIe is on (I assume can be turned off in service mode only). Have'nt seen the need to change anything yet- skin colors were right on, which is what I usually look for.

Please post some pictures of regular network programming like Lost/CSI etc so I can feel good about you having the same quality as me. :D

Will try.

Yeah, that dark spot caused by the scratch would drive me nuts...other than that the picture looks very good!

Most of the time it just disappears, but you're right, it can be seen and does bother me a little. I received hl-rxx78w service manual today (but didn't receive hl-rxx68w manual which was also ordered), will look it over to see if I can just swap the light engine from the 6168, or if I should just swap the lens.

The 6168 powers up, lamp turns on, but no display. they told me a 'board' is out, but maybe with the service manual i can troubleshoot exactly which board, and if it can be repaired at component level(doubt it), could probably end up with 2 tv's if very lucky- but would then need to get fresnel/lenticular lenses(front screen) for 6168 and buff out scratch on lens of 5678.

You need to have the special remote code to get in and out of the SM otherwise most changes you make won't stick. With the remote code I hit two buttons to get in and two buttons to get out and save it. It only takes a few seconds. I always change the setting for 1080i overscan(turn on then off) when I first turn on the set so I can get 1:1 pixel mapping. And then if the source has alot of noise I will enable the NR while viewing since it defaults to off in the service menu. So even though it might say on in the user menu, it really isn't until you turn it on in the SM. And it definitely helps on HD shows with some noise or compression artifacts. And remember, depending on the firmware version, the settings should be specific to the resolution. I don't remember if it is also specific to the input since I only use an HDMI input from my VP30 scaler but it definitely remembers the setting for each resolution.

I wanted to chime in here about the quality of those photos. I also have a Dish 942 hooked up to my 6768 that has the velux treatment and my calibration from DVE discs. The voom channels and the Disc HD channels and the HD Showtime HBO channels all have that similar quality and look very good and show the realism that was posted. I have OTA HD coming in from an antenna and Jay Leno in HD with HD cameras looks amazing. Also watching SNL in HD is the same, amazing PQ, literally you get distracted from all of the details on the set and the actors hairs out of place and such. I am very impressed with the PQ on my 6768 despite the past quality issues I had when I first purchased it.


You know - I am watching "Clear and Present Danger" on HBO-HD and I am seeing the same depth and "pop" I saw on the pictures although I do see a little bit of noise. Wonder what this means!

Spot gone. No more spot. My tv made it out of surgery ok (cornea transplant).

I transplanted the lens from the 6168 into the 5678. It was actually easier than I thought it would be. Remove back, remove light engine assembly, remove lens shroud, remove lens, replace with good one, put back together, turn on, be happy.

I prefer the lens without the scratch (big suprise). Will have to make some more screenshots now.

I love it when a plan comes together.

You need to have the special remote code to get in and out of the SM ...aaronwt... what are the special remote codes? Thanks.

aaronwt... what are the special remote codes? Thanks.

If you have a remote that can be programmed with "hex codes" (RTI, for example), then you can set up a couple of custom functions:

Enter Service Menu: "Info" followed by "Service Menu".

Exit Service Menu: "Service Menu" followed by "Service Menu".

"Info" hex code:
0000 006D 0000 0022 00AB 00AB 0014 0040 0014 0040 0014 0040 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0040 0014 0040 0014 0040 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0040 0014 0040 0014 0040 0014 0040 0014 0040 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0040 0014 0040 0014 0040 0014 0714

"Service Menu" hex code:
0000 006D 0000 0022 00AB 00AB 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0715

In other words, while the TV is on, simply invoke "Enter Service Menu". When you're done with the service menu, simply invoke "Exit Service Menu". Yes, exiting requires *two* invocations of the "Service Menu" code (to get past the infamous "aging" non-error code). One button press to get in, another to get out. Nothing could be simpler.

To learn more about this sort of thing, try visiting www.remotecentral.com.

I posted this in the Xbox thread but I felt that some people here would find it interesting.

I’ve read many differing opinions concerning lag or no lag with Samsung DLPs and microdisplays in general, when playing video games. I’ve also read that there is little or no difference between component and VGA inputs, regarding lag. Very few facts have been used to support most of these opinions, which led me to run a simple experiment. I have an original Xbox connected to a 5 year old CRT based rear projection TV and a 360 connected to a Samsung HL-R6168. Both Xboxs are connected to each other through a router, which allows me to use “Xbox system link”. I had a copy of Halo 2 installed in each Xbox and decided to use the trains from the Xbox Live “terminal” map as my measurement tool. The trains are very fast moving, which I felt would be best for demonstrating any lag differences between the two TVs. I had the players from each Xbox viewing the trains passing from the same point (one player looking over the other). I then photographed both TVs at the same time, when the train was passing by. Using component inputs on the HL-R6168, the DLP train lags the CRT train by about a full train car length. Using the VGA inputs on the HL-R6168, the DLP train lags the CRT train by less than a third of a train car. I repeated the test a few times and got the same results each time. Does the amount of lag I measured make a difference? I think it does in some games but using the VGA input almost eliminates it.

Note: I have all the DNIe parameters turned off in the service menu for all inputs on my HL-R6168. I don’t know for certain if this makes any difference in lag performance.

Milos... thanks.

I posted this in the Xbox thread but I felt that some people here would find it interesting.

I’ve read many differing opinions concerning lag or no lag with Samsung DLPs and microdisplays in general, when playing video games. I’ve also read that there is little or no difference between component and VGA inputs, regarding lag. Very few facts have been used to support most of these opinions, which led me to run a simple experiment. I have an original Xbox connected to a 5 year old CRT based rear projection TV and a 360 connected to a Samsung HL-R6168. Both Xboxs are connected to each other through a router, which allows me to use “Xbox system link”. I had a copy of Halo 2 installed in each Xbox and decided to use the trains from the Xbox Live “terminal” map as my measurement tool. The trains are very fast moving, which I felt would be best for demonstrating any lag differences between the two TVs. I had the players from each Xbox viewing the trains passing from the same point (one player looking over the other). I then photographed both TVs at the same time, when the train was passing by. Using component inputs on the HL-R6168, the DLP train lags the CRT train by about a full train car length. Using the VGA inputs on the HL-R6168, the DLP train lags the CRT train by less than a third of a train car. I repeated the test a few times and got the same results each time. Does the amount of lag I measured make a difference? I think it does in some games but using the VGA input almost eliminates it.

Note: I have all the DNIe parameters turned off in the service menu for all inputs on my HL-R6168. I don’t know for certain if this makes any difference in lag performance.
I don't think DNIe affects the vga input.(I also have it disabled in the SM) But there is definitely more lag on the component input on my 6168. I didn't realize until I first tried the vga input and all my game scores went up. When I switched back to component my scores went down again and back up when I went back to vga. So the only thing I could attribute it to is lag and it seems your experiment confirms that.

I searched this thread and couldnt find any info regarding my problem, so here it is....

My TV Guide OSD wont come up anymore. I hit the TV Guide button and nothing. It used to come up when the TV was first turned on, and now it doesnt. I didnt change any of the settings it just started happening the other night.

HL-R6168W, delivered Aug 2005 (from TV Authority of course)

I searched this thread and couldnt find any info regarding my problem, so here it is....

My TV Guide OSD wont come up anymore. I hit the TV Guide button and nothing. It used to come up when the TV was first turned on, and now it doesnt. I didnt change any of the settings it just started happening the other night.

HL-R6168W, delivered Aug 2005 (from TV Authority of course)

Here is what will probably fix it. Who knows why it died, but you should be able to revive it. How to fix TV Guide (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6764301&&#post6764301)

Good Luck

I went into the setup menu, down to the TV Guide button at the bottom and then hit enter and nothing happens, the menu just goes away and I still see the entire tv picture.

My TV Guide OSD wont come up anymore. I hit the TV Guide button and nothing. It used to come up when the TV was first turned on, and now it doesnt. I didnt change any of the settings it just started happening the other night.
I have an HL-R6168W and this happened to me a few weeks ago. I tried a few things but I think it got fixed after entering and exiting the Service Menu. (Insert standard warnings about going into the SM ...)

I had posted this question previously on this thread but never got a clear answer therefore I am posting it again in the hope that someone would answer it for me:

Established: The only way to have the Samsung HLRxxx8W DLP models accept a 1080p source is thru the VGA port.
Question: Are there any sources out there, including media PCs, that can generate a 1080p signal to VGA? Is there a way to generate 1080p to VGA using a laptop's DVD drive and software?

I have an HL-R6168W and this happened to me a few weeks ago. I tried a few things but I think it got fixed after entering and exiting the Service Menu. (Insert standard warnings about going into the SM ...)
Yea, I went into the SM, didnt touch anything, just in and out. Turned the TV back on and it was back. I even went through TVG setup again to make sure. On the upside it seems like the TV is now picking up on some PSIP data it wasnt getting before. THANKS!

I had posted this question previously on this thread but never got a clear answer therefore I am posting it again in the hope that someone would answer it for me:

Established: The only way to have the Samsung HLRxxx8W DLP models accept a 1080p source is thru the VGA port.
Question: Are there any sources out there, including media PCs, that can generate a 1080p signal to VGA? Is there a way to generate 1080p to VGA using a laptop's DVD drive and software?
I've been doing that since last year. I send 1920x1080P to the Sammy. For 2D it shouldn't be a problem with any video card. I know with my NVidia 6800 card I have in my HTPC NVIDIA has settings to tweak the 1080P output. I had to just tweak it a little to center it and adjust it from the Samsung menu. If your video card doesn't have the controls you would need to use a program like Powerstrip. I used this in 2002/2003 to output to my old Toshiba HD set. But that was 1080i.

I had posted this question previously on this thread but never got a clear answer therefore I am posting it again in the hope that someone would answer it for me:

Established: The only way to have the Samsung HLRxxx8W DLP models accept a 1080p source is thru the VGA port.
Question: Are there any sources out there, including media PCs, that can generate a 1080p signal to VGA? Is there a way to generate 1080p to VGA using a laptop's DVD drive and software?


Yes, I am able to do this with my Thinkpad. It has an ATI graphics card with 128MB memory. The picture is amazing. I don't use any special software - just Windows Media Player. I had to upgrade the graphics card driver before it would work at 1920x1080 though.

just watched batman returns on hbo-hd on direct and it looked terrible. probably the worst hd movie i've watched in a long time.

any one else notice that? it looked like upconverted sd to me.

the heats piston game on espn-hd also looked like crap.

That is exactly what happened to my HLR6768...the left-side shadow disappeared after about a week. The service technician had already come out and diagnosed the problem and a new LE was already on order. I did not bother to try and stop the replacement of the LE, because the shadow could reappear at any time. Who knows?
I do. Its 6-6-6!

Due to a Samsung error, I have an extra. It's available for the cost of postage. First come, first served. Please send a PM if interested.

Due to a Samsung error, I have an extra. It's available for the cost of postage. First come, first served. Please send a PM if interested.

You must have received mine. I was shorted an hl-rxx68 service manual. I'll tell them who has mine :)

More screenshots using Windows MCE2005-

http://www.mtcnet.net/~henryvm/hlr_2/

Took me awhile to figure out how to get vga video working good. I wasn't seeing the size controls beneath the 'wide' setting(my eyes were seeing it,but was not getting to the brain). I had to expand the display all the way to get 1:1 (or so I think)- will now have to come up with a resolution to eliminate overscan. Someone's reading this thinking 'we went over this a million times! read the previous 5000 messages in this thread already!' - I know, I know.

Someone asked for screenshots from network programming like CSI, was unable(today) due to storms passing through- local networks need to display their little weather radars in the corner of the screen, but don't have hd overlay equipment so they change to sd. In a few years (maybe) they will realize they are actually going to have to purchase equipment to deal with hd.

Why do they have to display the radar in the corner of the screen? Here they have a subchannel for radar/weather on 3 of the 4 major networks.

Why do they have to display the radar in the corner of the screen? Here they have a subchannel for radar/weather on 3 of the 4 major networks.

One has upn as a subchannel, which also displays weather radar when upn not being broadcast. But I would guess it wouldn't matter- they would still display the weather graphics in the corner when bad weather present, to prevent this-

spokesperson for people ravaged by storm: 'why didn't you warn us bad weather was on its way?'

tv station manager: 'we did. It was on our subchannel.'

spokesperson for people ravaged by storm: 'what's a subchannel?'

tv station manager: 'you know, that extra channel thats on the same channel as our main channel and in the same bitstream- didn't you read the fcc documents on this? You should actually be talking to your tv salesman- they should have told you.'

spokesperson for people ravaged by storm: 'we just want to watch CSI, we don't care about no subchannel'

etc,etc,etc.



They just need to upgrade their equipment so they can display their little graphics in hd.

For those of you with the 56" models. What is the height of your stand? I am canceling a media stand that I have on order that is 33.5" high. I fear with the TV on it it will be too high and not provide the best viewing. It is a shame though since it was a really nice piece of furniture.

Is the Samsung official stand 18" or 24" ? Which is the best height to get?

Thanks
Euri

For those of you with the 56" models. What is the height of your stand? I am canceling a media stand that I have on order that is 33.5" high. I fear with the TV on it it will be too high and not provide the best viewing. It is a shame though since it was a really nice piece of furniture.

Is the Samsung official stand 18" or 24" ? Which is the best height to get?

Thanks
Euri

I'm watching at a 37.5" height (of base)- looks good- eye level sitting on a 21" chair is at the lower third of the screen. Standing up eye level is top third of screen.

http://www.mtcnet.net/~henryvm/hlr_2/P6060507.JPG
(Watching Starwars3- didn't realize it took Anakin 30 seconds to go to the dark side. That was fast. What a deep personal struggle.)

I would think 33.5 would be ok unless you are lying on the floor. Just my opinion- which is free (and worth that much).

I have a random question for anyone out there. Is there a way to disable the power button on the front of the tv. I have a 61" and I also have a 1 year old who seems to be drawn to that large circle of a power button on the front.

I don't know if it's possible, but I know someone must have wondered the same thing before.

Its a good idea. Some people have removed the screen and have found the wires to the buttons on the right side. I'd imagine the power button would also be right there too.

Looking at my set now, I'd be more concerned with touching, pressing in on the screen or putting something on the screen, more than than just touching the power button or turning off the TV. The screen is really just above the button. lol.

More screenshots using Windows MCE2005-

http://www.mtcnet.net/~henryvm/hlr_2/
g to the brain). I had to expand the display all the way to get 1:1 (or so I think)- will now have to come up with a resolution to eliminate overscan.

Hmm ... I didn't know that the display had to be expanded all the way to get 1:1. Can others also verify that this is the case? I will be very grateful!

I'll have to figure out another way to keep the rugrat away from the screen, but right now his fascination is pressing the power button.......REPEATEDLY (and if I recall I didn't think short cycling the set was good for it)

I'll have to figure out another way to keep the rugrat away from the screen, but right now his fascination is pressing the power button.......REPEATEDLY (and if I recall I didn't think short cycling the set was good for it)

I hear ya! My 3 year old has a similar fascination with the button - but atleast I am able to dissuade her most of the time by stern looks and dire threats. :-)

Of course, that won't work on a 1 year old. Perhaps a solution would be to keep something in front of the button so its not visible at all - out of sight, out of mind? Maybe worth a try!

hello, im recommending this DLP (Samsung HL-R6168W) to my brother and wanted to know if it had component outputs as well, since 1080P can be displayed through that other than VGA. How is the picture quality when viewing HD material like Dish or HD-DVD player? Why is the company touting this as 1080P when some people say it's not "true 1080P"? Does it use the chip wobulation as some people have said when comparing with Sony SXRD? Thanks.

Hmm ... I didn't know that the display had to be expanded all the way to get 1:1. Can others also verify that this is the case? I will be very grateful!

FYI- I looked at the screen very close, looking at icons/mouse pointer, when I expand display all the way, it looked the best.

This is what I think is going on- the pc outputs 1920x1080 pixels, the tv has 1920(960x2)x1080 pixels(mirrors?) but some of those are never seen because they are projected on the edges of the screen we cannot see(overscan area). So when you adjust the tv display to make it 'just fit' the screen, the tv is shrinking the 1920x1080 from the pc to fit the screen (which may be something like 1900x1040)- which means no 1:1. However, when expanded all the way, the tv is using all 1920x1080 pixels- which means no resizing, hence 1:1 (and also getting some pixels we can't see).

But I could be wrong.

I'll have to figure out another way to keep the rugrat away from the screen, but right now his fascination is pressing the power button.......REPEATEDLY (and if I recall I didn't think short cycling the set was good for it)

Fortunately, my 2 year old daughter’s fascination with the power and side buttons was short lived. But I can’t for the life of me keep her from wiping her usually food coated hands on the screen. She just loves to point and touch the screen when something catches her interest. She doesn’t do it much when I’m around, but my wife is far more lenient, especially when she’s partially distracted by World Of Warcraft..

Can anyone recommend a good screen cleaner? I’ve been using baby wipes to degrease the screen from time to time since a dry cloth just doesn’t work well with finger print smudges. I figure the wipes are pretty safe to use but they tend to leave streaks.

I have a random question for anyone out there. Is there a way to disable the power button on the front of the tv. I have a 61" and I also have a 1 year old who seems to be drawn to that large circle of a power button on the front.

I don't know if it's possible, but I know someone must have wondered the same thing before.

I quickly wondered the same thing last July when my then one and half year old daughter became fascinated with the side and power buttons on my spanking new TV. Unfortunately I don’t believe there is a way to disable the buttons, short of opening up the TV.. I was able to stop her interest in the side buttons by putting an unused speaker I had laying around by the side of the TV. Out of sight, out of mind as the old saying goes. If you can’t block access with a speaker, a medium size plant might also work.

The front button was more problematic, but fortunately a few stern warnings did the trick. Something that might work for you is to try and distract your child with a toy whenever they show interest in the button. Eventually their fascination with it will stop, but if your child is like mine, their focus will then change to the screen and they will just love to run up to it and point at every cool thing that catches their interest. I have yet to break my daughter of that habit. As big as it may look to use, I can only imagine how enticing a 56”+ screen must seem to a child.

Hmm ... I didn't know that the display had to be expanded all the way to get 1:1. Can others also verify that this is the case? I will be very grateful!

Yes (for VGA). This was reported when these sets first came out.

Hey new2hometheater - How does the video look with the Xbox360 VGA cable? Have you downloaded any 720p movie trailers from the Xbox Live Marketplace? If so, how do they look compared to the component cable?

Thanks!
My initial impression when I connected my 360 to VGA was that it looked slightly washed out compared to component. I switched the cables back and forth a few times because I wanted to get a sense of the lag, if any, between component and VGA and I also wanted to compare the picture quality.

I preferred the PQ of component, but I went with VGA because I believe I was experiencing some lag through component. The difference in quality just wasn’t significant enough to put up with some minor lag.

One thing I was curious of was if anyone else thinks that the VGA picture improved with the recent Live update. Just the day before I downloaded the update I had been playing a level in Ghost Recon that takes place at dusk and involves clearing out a small shanty town with the help of an APC. I didn’t complete the level and decide to continue the next day after downloading the update. After restarting the level, I immediately noticed an improvement in the picture quality. I don’t know if contrast improvement is the correct term but I noticed the shadows were more pronounced and the whole level just had a better sense of light and shadow. I had already completed the game on normal, and was replaying on hard so I know what the game looked like but I can’t help but feel that since the patch, the game, and the 360 dash in general, just look better.

I also have a 360 connected to my HL-R6168 via VGA, primarily due to the lag improvement. The picture quality has definitely improved with the latest 360 patch.

I had my light engine replaced today for the left side shadow. Because I live in a somewhat rural area, Samsung contracted a nearby TV service shop, which does not have any color correction equipment. To say the least I was not comfortable with the idea, since the service manual says color correction is required after a LE replacement. The service technician was planning to replace the LE and restore the TV to the default service menu settings. Since many of the service menu default settings are significantly different than the factory settings for my set, I thought this would have been a shot in the dark at best. When I confronted the service tech about the color correction requirement, he suggested swapping the color wheels between the two LEs, because most of the color correction requirement is related to the individual color wheels. I’m very happy with the results. I was very happy with the TV’s picture quality prior to the left side shadow and I am just as happy after the LE replacement. I suggest this strategy be considered for anyone having a LE replaced by someone that does not have color correction equipment.
Vandu: Are you still happy with swapping the color wheel during your LE swap? My unit just started showing the shadow last night and my set is calibrated. The first light engine swap to fix a miss-aligned DMD was so bad the tech put the original LE back in and spent an hour adjusting the DMD. I don't want to screw up what is a fantastic picture with a new LE.

I thought you could have the sets re calibrated for a good price, some free? I'd rather get all parts replaced so they all fail at once or something. It probably doesn't make sense but I'd like to show everything was replaced at the same time with a receipt. I'm for getting the Velux before a calibration. I'm still working on it.

Thought I would give you guys an update on my HL-R6178W. Yesterday was the 3 week mark from when they took the TV to the repair shop and I still do not have it back. Parts have been on backorder (more on that later), so I called Samsung and asked what they thought an acceptable amount of time for my set to be in the shop was and their reply, "Six to seven weeks!" I could not believe that was the answer the guy gave me. He said that the TV's are in high demand and when there are that many parts that need to be replaced, parts get backordered. My reply was that if that many parts need to be replaced, would you not consider that a massive failure and he did not.

As to the parts being backordered, the color wheel was on backorder and when it arrived the repair company said the replacement light engine had been installed incorrectly by the first shop that worked on it. The new repair company said that there is software that comes with the light engines that needs to be loaded into the TV (I believe he said it had to do with all the calibrations for that light engine) and it was not done, so the new color wheel doesn't work right with the new light engine. They were trying to get the software from Samsung for the light engine and if they could not get it, they are going to put another new light engine in it.

Has anyone found a higher level of support from Samsung than just the tech support line? Is there a different number to call? I started this repair project in pretty good spirits, but I am furious after the last call with Samsung.

On the other hand, the JVC HD52G886 I rented has been really good. I am impressed with this TV, considering the internet price. Not the rental price however. If you had to pay for this thing on a rent to own basis, it would cost you $7k!!! You can get it from TV Authority for $1800.

That really pisses me off. There's no way its that back ordered, I don't believe it. If it is it sucks, but I'd get that verified. It sounds like they are milking Samsung. You can't install the LE wrong, that's the point. I think you'd notice it if they did. The LE includes the update afaik. All of the updates are only on new sets from the factory. That's my understanding. Everyone here's been waiting for an update but none are available. My LE had the update afaik and the tech. confirmed everything was correct in the SM. Others here reported that too. I can't say I'm positive on any of this but enough to get me ticked and that takes a lot. lol. I can just hear the BS from Samsung and I'm here in Boston. lol. There are different tiers to go through but lately people have had trouble. I called them once to inquire about the hash mark and the guy said I was nuts and that it didn't exist. I went off on the poor guy. If you say you don't know and you'll put me through to someone who is more knowledgeable then that's fine but don't waste my time and give me some S.

I don't have info on the color wheel but I thought it was included with the LE unless you didn't want it replaced or something? I don't get that. Some of that might make sense since they have to be in sync.

I think you need to be sure you're not getting the runaround. I don't feel bad for Samsung if they are getting overcharged. I'm sure you'll get your set fixed so that isn't an issue either. Its just a matter of them not damaging the screen or form factor case, and fixing it in a timely manner and not taking on other repairs ahead of yours. That has happened to people here who had their set picked up. I hate to say it but for people reading these posts Do Not Let Anyone Pick Up Your Set. Period. Unless you have absolutely no picture or the image is not watchable then it doesn't matter. People here know how to get to the right people in tech. support. Keep us posted and don't take any BS.

I'm so teed I forgot to add to go to the shop and let them show you that the LE and all that is BOd and the expected date. If they can't show it then I'd press them some more and have them call Samsung with you waiting. All of the components are simple repairs, that's how the sets were designed. My LE took less than thirty minutes and they arrived the next day. That's hard to beat but seems to be the norm around here. Anything above that or three times that is bull.

I thought you could have the sets re calibrated for a good price, some free? I'd rather get all parts replaced so they all fail at once or something. It probably doesn't make sense but I'd like to show everything was replaced at the same time with a receipt. I'm for getting the Velux before a calibration. I'm still working on it.

Calibration is around $400 so not close to free. It takes hours if the person is really doing something.

...
has anyone found a higher level of support from Samsung than just the tech support line? Is there a different number to call? I started this repair project in pretty good spirits, but I am furious after the last call with Samsung.



Did you ask for level 2? Just have your repair ticket number handy. If you don't have it you can get it from their website.

Thought I would give you guys an update on my HL-R6178W. Yesterday was the 3 week mark from when they took the TV to the repair shop and I still do not have it back.

Unless you live in smallville USA I cannot think of a reason why you would need to part with your set to have it taken back to a "repair shop". Everything is modular in the set. When something fails, you replace the failed module. I'm fortuate to live in a city that has it own qualified Samsung service personel. When I had my set repaired, the tech drove up in a truck with the Samsung logo all over it. Digital module was replaced and in less than 30 minutes my set was back up and running.

'Course some of the parts were backordered so it took a week or so to get the repair appointment. I watched what the tech did and after getting a good look at the internals of the set and what the tech did to diagnose and repair the set, I truly cannot think of any reason why a set needs a to go into the "shop" to be repaired.

BTW: If you live in smallville, perhaps it would be best to send it to a Samsung repair depot. Also, if Samsung suggests a particular repair shop, you have every right to call the the repair shop and ask about thier qualifications to work on your set. If you're not satisfied, call Samsung back and insist on a another method of getting you set repaired.

Just my $.02 worth.

The only reason I let them take the set was that the first repair company that worked on it left it in worse condition when they were done changing the light engine. I feel pretty good about the new repair shop, especially since the tech working on the set was headed to a new Samsung class the day after they picked up my set.

I am going to call and ask Samsung today or tomorrow about the level 2 support. The thing that has really made me mad now was the guy yesterday saying that 6 to 7 weeks without the TV was acceptable to them. That is not how you treat someone that pre-ordered this TV and paid as much as we have paid for them. Until yesterday I was convinced that the next TV I bought would be from Samsung and it is going to take a lot to make me feel that way again.

Ccouper, is that the cost for a second calibration? I thought some were free? Maybe it depends if its a new LE or a new DVD player? I'm not getting a calibration until I get a BR/HD DVD player.

Errett, see if you can get Samsung to confirm the parts are BOd. That would really answer things. The first and second people you speak with probably can't answer that but look at how long your set has been broken and the cost of your rental and don't take no for an answer. Someone at Samsung knows about these parts, the inventory, delays and all of that. Then you'll know how long from that point it should take to get your set back. Otherwise I just hear asap and I wouldn't take that for an answer.

I think Samsung still has the best features and quality for the price. I also think they have better customer service and repair than any other electronics company like Sony, I've dealt with. I'm sure none of them are perfect but if you look at the big picture I think Samsung is better than all of them. Keep in mind I bought the set for the features, quality and price. I had no idea their customer service was so good. Keep track of those who had problems and you'll see everyone who had their set picked up had horror stories. Samsung even says not to pick up the set. The only issue people have had really is that some of the replacement parts were defective too but that has been very few.

Ccouper, is that the cost for a second calibration? I thought some were free? Maybe it depends if its a new LE or a new DVD player? I'm not getting a calibration until I get a BR?HD DVD player.

The guy who did my calibration (Eliab (http://www.avical.com) ) has already calibrated my set for the HD/Blu Ray DVD players. The specs were published well in advance for these players so technically, you do not need to have one of these DVD players for calibration purposes.

BTW: There is a very nice article at The Viewing Angle (http://americanwired.com/video/theviewingangle.html) written by Eliab that gives some very useful tips if you want to do your own calibration.

BTW: There is a very nice article at The Viewing Angle (http://americanwired.com/video/theviewingangle.html) written by Eliab that gives some very useful tips if you want to do your own calibration. Just what I've been looking for. Thanks.

I haven't checked the thread in a while. Has there been any news as to whether Samsung will release some kind of firmware upgrade?

SV

I have an HLR5078w. Does anyone have green and red blocks when watching the World Cup. I had DNie turned on and was watching the WC. You can see large cm sized blocks of alternating green and red on the field. I went into the SM and changed one of the DNie settings to off and it helped quite a bit but you can still see a bit of movement on the field. I shouldn't have to mess with the Sm to get a better picture. I'm fed up with Samsung and their TV's. Has anyone else seen this or is it just my crappy TV?

That must either be the feed or the signal from your STB. I don't see how that can be from your set? What other issues have you had? More than others here?

That must either be the feed or the signal from your STB. I don't see how that can be from your set? What other issues have you had? More than others here?

I've had three Samsungs in the past year and a half. I started off with a 46" HLP and it had quite a few issues. Then they upgraded me to the 56" HLR 720p model and it had a terrible picture. The service tech couldn't believe how bad HD looked. They then upgraded me to the current HLR5078w. The first problem i had with this TV was a light grey spot that showed up in the bottom left corner. It was only visible during dark scenes but it was about 1.5" by 3" and was very annoying. They replaced the engine and it has been fine. But the picture quality on this TV is terrible. I even replaced my DirecTV HD Tivo to make sure it wasn't that causing the problem. In scenes of 24 this season you can see large moving red blocks on the characters faces during closeups. The World Cup issue I posted about is not the feed because my wife's parents live next to us and have a 60" SXRD and it looks spectacular and doesn't have this problem. I'm reluctant to call Samsung again because they probably think I'm full of crap. All in all I am very disappointed with Samsung's DLP's.

I have an HLR5078w. Does anyone have green and red blocks when watching the World Cup. I had DNie turned on and was watching the WC. You can see large cm sized blocks of alternating green and red on the field. I went into the SM and changed one of the DNie settings to off and it helped quite a bit but you can still see a bit of movement on the field. I shouldn't have to mess with the Sm to get a better picture. I'm fed up with Samsung and their TV's. Has anyone else seen this or is it just my crappy TV?

I am watching the World Cup on ESPN2 HD. It is absolutely amazing - no blocks nothing. Just stunning. I am sure its something in your setup. Hope it works out for you soon.

Wiggin78, I'm drawing straws here. I'm not so sure you can pin it on the 5078? Maybe you can but if that is the case by all means bring them right back, diagnosis it and fix it, just don't let them take it. The service call is free so its a matter of wasting your time and the aggravation. No one wants that but you should by all means have a HDTV that works as well as all of ours.

I was thinking you should look at your dish, the dish wiring and connections. You could check your signal strength for starters. It sounds like you switched from SD to HD dish? Any picture issue will be exaggerated on a HDTV. At some point you needed to upgrade the wiring. I don't know how old your wiring is?

I don't know if you could connect a SDTV and see if there are issues? I'd bet if there were that you wouldn't notice them though. This is tough but to just sit there with something wrong isn't right. I know, sorry. lol.

I've had three Samsungs in the past year and a half. I started off with a 46" HLP and it had quite a few issues. Then they upgraded me to the 56" HLR 720p model and it had a terrible picture. The service tech couldn't believe how bad HD looked. They then upgraded me to the current HLR5078w. The first problem i had with this TV was a light grey spot that showed up in the bottom left corner. It was only visible during dark scenes but it was about 1.5" by 3" and was very annoying. They replaced the engine and it has been fine. But the picture quality on this TV is terrible. I even replaced my DirecTV HD Tivo to make sure it wasn't that causing the problem. In scenes of 24 this season you can see large moving red blocks on the characters faces during closeups. The World Cup issue I posted about is not the feed because my wife's parents live next to us and have a 60" SXRD and it looks spectacular and doesn't have this problem. I'm reluctant to call Samsung again because they probably think I'm full of crap. All in all I am very disappointed with Samsung's DLP's.I hope that this isn't too simplistic, but how was your set calibrated after the new LE was installed? Avia? DVE? ISF? I'm just curious because you don't mention it - unless I missed it in a post further back. Can you give me a post number? This is a really long thread. :)

I am watching the World Cup on ESPN2 HD. It is absolutely amazing - no blocks nothing. Just stunning. I am sure its something in your setup. Hope it works out for you soon.

A friend has DirectTV with a Sony LCD RPTV. He says the World Cup on ESPN looks spectacular, but the local ABC station (Los Angeles) DirectTV has digital break up. So, there you have a completely different set-up reporting in.

I hope that this isn't too simplistic, but how was your set calibrated after the new LE was installed? Avia? DVE? ISF? I'm just curious because you don't mention it - unless I missed it in a post further back. Can you give me a post number? This is a really long thread. :)

I didn't mention it but i use Avia. The pixelization I'm experiencing isn't setup related as far as I can tell. Like I said it gets better if I turn off a couple DNie settings. This happens with most HD feeds and also was a problem before the new light engine.

I didn't mention it but i use Avia. The pixelization I'm experiencing isn't setup related as far as I can tell. Like I said it gets better if I turn off a couple DNie settings. This happens with most HD feeds and also was a problem before the new light engine.
Do your in-laws also use DirecTV? I think that bcvp is correct. I would get on DirecTV for a "last mile" rewire job. I would also have the greyscale and source inputs tuned by an ISF calibrator (just to be sure). If nothing else, the ISF person could probably help you locate the precise source of your difficulty (if it isn't corrected by then).

Do your in-laws also use DirecTV? I think that bcvp is correct. I would get on DirecTV for a "last mile" rewire job. I would also have the greyscale and source inputs tuned by an ISF calibrator (just to be sure). If nothing else, the ISF person could probably help you locate the precise source of your difficulty (if it isn't corrected by then).

Yes, they have the exact same setup as we do. Most calibrator's I've asked about pixelization and noise on screen say there is little they can do for that.

Yes, they have the exact same setup as we do. Most calibrator's I've asked about pixelization and noise on screen say there is little they can do for that.

I don't agree with that. A good calibration will almost always reduce the noise level. The source and display also play into this, but it is rare that a display is setup such that noise is not reduced from the calibration process.

Wiggin78, that's why you should check the signal, the cables, connections and dish. I think the answer is there since you eliminated the STB. How about OTA? That would be interesting.

Would someone please check the user menu and tell me whether the selection User Menu:Picture:Mode Movie:Color Tone is grayed out. On my HL-R5678, it's grayed out (with Warm 2 selected) but I'd swear that I remember all Color Tones as previously being selectable under Movie Mode. (I thinking that I probably screwed-up something while rummaging around in the Service Menu. :o )

Just tried it and it is grayed out, so that is the default or normal setting. Be careful in that SM. lol.

Just tried it and it is grayed out, so that is the default or normal setting. Be careful in that SM. lol.... and I thought that memory was the second thing to go! ;) Thanks much.

Here's one:

1) TVGOS functioned perfectly until 1 week ago. Only showing NO LISTINGS now.
2) Sony HDD-250 HD recorder/tuner with TVGOS attached to same input lines (OTA and Cable) receives TVGOS listings just fine at the same time that the Sammy shows "No Listings"
3) Attempted to reset Sammy by using the TVGOS codes shown in this thread. No Go.
4) Attempted to reset Sammy by using the "reset the zipcode to 00000 and inputs to nothing. No go.

Summary: HD recorder gets TVGOS listings while Sammy TV does not.

Is there anyway to TOTALLY reset the Sammy to believe it's a newly installed set? Does that even sound like a potential solution here? :(

Hello friends,
My 5668W, after 1900+ hours, is now a victim of left-side shadow's disease. I have a couple questions for anyone (especially in the Minneapolis area) who has gone through the process:

1) Should I be nervous that the "white gloves" service tech they referred me to has NO prior knowledge of the shadow problem? Is there another option I can use for a service call that isn't set up through 1-800 Samsung? I'm still under my factory warranty period.

2) With a light engine swap, that affects the picture settings, correct? Is it standard practice for the tech to reset to factory defaults?

3) Does a new LE cure the Light Dark Light problem?

Thanks in advance and take care,
marc

Here's one:

1) TVGOS functioned perfectly until 1 week ago. Only showing NO LISTINGS now.
2) Sony HDD-250 HD recorder/tuner with TVGOS attached to same input lines (OTA and Cable) receives TVGOS listings just fine at the same time that the Sammy shows "No Listings"
3) Attempted to reset Sammy by using the TVGOS codes shown in this thread. No Go.
4) Attempted to reset Sammy by using the "reset the zipcode to 00000 and inputs to nothing. No go.

Summary: HD recorder gets TVGOS listings while Sammy TV does not.

Is there anyway to TOTALLY reset the Sammy to believe it's a newly installed set? Does that even sound like a potential solution here? :(

When doing #4 did you leave it on 00000 for a day and then update with your information? My experience is that some cycle time that is necessary. I don't know that it needs to be a day, but that worked for me.

Hello friends,
My 5668W, after 1900+ hours, is now a victim of left-side shadow's disease. I have a couple questions for anyone (especially in the Minneapolis area) who has gone through the process:

1) Should I be nervous that the "white gloves" service tech they referred me to has NO prior knowledge of the shadow problem? Is there another option I can use for a service call that isn't set up through 1-800 Samsung? I'm still under my factory warranty period.

2) With a light engine swap, that affects the picture settings, correct? Is it standard practice for the tech to reset to factory defaults?

3) Does a new LE cure the Light Dark Light problem?

Thanks in advance and take care,
marc

The change out itself is straightforward. Removal of a bunch of screws, remove the plastic cover, remove more screws, pull out the light engine and digital boards, unplug things, swap the two light engines, plug things back in, slide electronics back in the set, put screws back in, put plastic cover backup and finally put the rest of the screws in. Turn set on and away you go.

That's all the kid that came out and changed my light engine did. He then looked at me and said "does the picture look ok?" I asked about and looked for CCA settings - he knew nothing. I don't think he knew how to enter the service menu. Anyway after he left I went in and changed the "index delay" so that I had a uniform red color gradient in the bars that come up when you enter that item. I also checked the horizontal and vertical settings and was happy with the default. Anyway the picture looks great!

Does anyone know if the CCA settings are supposed to be set based on numbers for the given light engine? I thought there would be a page with the numbers on it with the light engine, but I couldn't find anything on the light engine or in the box.

If you are not in a big city where there is an Samsung authorized (trained) shop, I think the odds of having someone who knows much about the sets (other than how to simply change parts) is rather slim.

schaffer970,

Each time a DMD board or main board is changed the factory CCA settings must be copied to the main board or DMD depending on what part was changed. If he did not enter the service menu this was not done.

I've been doing that since last year. I send 1920x1080P to the Sammy. For 2D it shouldn't be a problem with any video card. I know with my NVidia 6800 card I have in my HTPC NVIDIA has settings to tweak the 1080P output. I had to just tweak it a little to center it and adjust it from the Samsung menu. If your video card doesn't have the controls you would need to use a program like Powerstrip. I used this in 2002/2003 to output to my old Toshiba HD set. But that was 1080i.


You are able to get your video card to output 1920x1080? Mine does 1920x1200 to the samsung and the TV reports this as the resolution in it's menu. I have 7800GTX card using a Dell XPS laptop.

Hello friends,

3) Does a new LE cure the Light Dark Light problem?

Thanks in advance and take care,
marc

It may or may not. Either way, it'll be different. I've been through three LEs and each one had the LDL to some degree. My current one has it but it's liveable. I only see it in really dark scenes in a dark room because I know it's there. Calibration won't get rid of it but calibration will give you a great picture to the point you can live with it.

Bill

When doing #4 did you leave it on 00000 for a day and then update with your information? My experience is that some cycle time that is necessary. I don't know that it needs to be a day, but that worked for me.


sure did ... no go. Actually, left it at 00000 for a weekend while away.

I have the HLR5078W. i was wondering if any of you have problems with large blocks of pixels? I have DirecTV with a HD Tivo receiver. When i say pixel blocks I mean when there is a fast moving scene the whole screen has large blocks maybe 1cm x 1cm. Is this normal with HD content? Upgraded from an HLP about 2 months ago and I don't recall having this problem. IS it more likely a receiver issue than a TV issue? Any help is appreciated.
Your issue is most likely Directv.

Been reading this thread for an hour and havent seen the answer. Ive found a great price on HLR5078W 1080p. Does this set properly perform inverse telecine??? or does it drop a field and convert 540p to 1080p??

... HLR5078W 1080p. Does this set properly perform inverse telecine??? or does it drop a field and convert 540p to 1080p?? Inverse telecine is listed in the specs (See specs. (http://www.tvauthority.com/DLP-TV-HDTV/Samsung-HL-R5078W.asp)) But, I would assume this applies to a 480i input. Few devices outside of high price external video processors were doing this last year for 1080i sources. But, you should look for another source to verify one way or the other.

All of the 1080p Samsung DLP sets I have seen properly deinterlace film material from 1080i.

sure did ... no go. Actually, left it at 00000 for a weekend while away.

Are you using a CableCard or a STB?

Also, another thing you can try is to unplug the TV (while it's off, and the fan has stopped spinning) waiting a couple minutes, and then plugging it back in.

The 00000 thing has always worked me though.

SV

Never cycle Power on and off quickly because your Samsung TV may end up in lala land.

Are there specific symptoms of "lala land"? My HL-R6178 may be there.

I turned off the TV normally on Sunday night before bed. Monday AM, wife calls me about the remote not working. 'Til I got home, she watched the tele via the front power buttom and side panel controls. Watched a little, turned if off and went about her business for the day.

After getting home and putting batteries in the remote, the remote now works (based on the dumb LED lights), but it won't turn on the tele. What the heck, neither will the front power button.

I try every remote button just for so (they all light the LED on the remote and the indicator on the tele flashes), but do nothing. TV's power button, nothing. Side panel buttons. OMG, the side panel return button turned the TV on. :eek:

But the remote doesn't work. Neither do the side panel channel buttons. In fact, now that the TV is on, the only buttons that work are the side panel source/input button and the side panel volume up. Nothing else.

Now I can't turn the TV off except by unplugging it, and if I plug it back in, it turns back on and straight to its FUBAR state.

Will be calling Samsung later so they can change the innards of the TV (probably?) and perhaps begin a whole new array of problems.

Just thought I'd "share" and see if anybody else ran across this.

Are you using a CableCard or a STB?

Also, another thing you can try is to unplug the TV (while it's off, and the fan has stopped spinning) waiting a couple minutes, and then plugging it back in.

The 00000 thing has always worked me though.

SV

No cable card, no stb, simply the tv itself with straight cable (not digital) and a UHF antenna plugged into the correct inputs.

I have a new HLR6178. While waiting for the satellite company to come out and hook up a hd dish, I hooked up a hd antenna. I picked up about 20 local channels. After a couple of days, some of the uhf hd channels quit working. I thought it was just bad reception. Then today, the satellite company came and hooked up my dish. When I turned on the tv to set up the dish, none of the channels would work off of the antenna and the tv would not recognize the satellite receiver. I had previously used a dvd and it would no longer recognize it either. I called Samsung and they had me do a couple of things like unplug the tv and hit the power button 15 times to reset it and nothing they had me do worked.

I am pissed that after just a couple of days that this expensive of a tv quit working. When it worked, it was awesome.

Does anybody know how to correct this. All I could get was an answering machine from Samsung repair.

Thanks in advance

I have a new HLR6178. While waiting for the satellite company to come out and hook up a hd dish, I hooked up a hd antenna. I picked up about 20 local channels. After a couple of days, some of the uhf hd channels quit working. I thought it was just bad reception. Then today, the satellite company came and hooked up my dish. When I turned on the tv to set up the dish, none of the channels would work off of the antenna and the tv would not recognize the satellite receiver. I had previously used a dvd and it would no longer recognize it either. I called Samsung and they had me do a couple of things like unplug the tv and hit the power button 15 times to reset it and nothing they had me do worked.

I am pissed that after just a couple of days that this expensive of a tv quit working. When it worked, it was awesome.

Does anybody know how to correct this. All I could get was an answering machine from Samsung repair.

Thanks in advance
Return it an buy an HLS6187, you won't regret it.

Is there a good consolidated resource available on the net on how to access and make changes to the Service Menu settings for a Samsung DLP HLR TV?

Thanks/

Aloud, a few people had that problem and I don't remember what part was replaced? Samsung has one of the best customer service and repair. You should be able to get that taken care of next time they're open. Let us know what part they replace.

I've had my 6168 since September, with the only issue up until now being the LDL issue which hasn't really bugged me enough to do anything about (picture is still amazing). However, the infamous left side shadow has appeared. Didn't have the TV on all day Saturday as it was 90+ degrees and humid (outside enjoying it). Turned it on Sunday to catch some of the US Open and alas, a vertical shadow appeared on the left edge of the TV, about 1/8" wide at the top and 1" wide at the bottom. Turned the TV on Monday night and it had shrunk in half (width-wise). Turned it on last night, and it was completely gone! I'm wondering if it has something to due with temperature/humidity, as it has cooled down and dried out quite a bit since Saturday...and I didn't have the air on all weekend either so the house was pretty warm. Just thought I'd share....
...cheers

Is there a good consolidated resource available on the net on how to access and make changes to the Service Menu settings for a Samsung DLP HLR TV?

Thanks/ No.... Not that I've been able to find. The Service Manual contains some useful info relative to making specific adjustments within the service menu but is severely lacking on details concerning operation of the CCA. The best info specific to the HL-R series was on the American Wired website but it suddenly went MIA. (BTW, if you have not looked at the service menu yet, the general info you'll find on the web pertaining to making color adjustments using cuts & gains does not apply to the HL-R series.) Good luck.

Oldno7, this seems to be the newest issue. The vertical stripe/shadow on the left side was common, however the shadow or stripe is normally much wider, like duct tape at the widest part and then gets narrower as though you tore off a piece of duct tape from the roll. That issue doesn't go away and a LE fixes it.

This new issue seems to have a much narrower stripe or shadow, like Scotch tape, which also gets smaller like tearing it from the roll. This does seem to disappear without a service call and some have reported that is reappears. No one has determined the cause, that is what part is causing the shadow and in this case what makes it move? Since its in the light path a LE would fix it.

anyone had a chnace to see the 78 1080P series side by side with the 88 series and compare them? Have not seen any 88's here yet (did see the 87 at CC in 56") but local Tweeter has some 78's still for sale

about a week ago a blue strip showed up on my tv, and from reading some of this thread after the fact, it seems like this is a common occurence. unfortunately i ddn't check this forum before calling samsung. called them and they said merins tv is the only place to take it. so they came and picked it up a few days later (i know big mistake) they had it about a week and they replaced the light engine. got the tv back and the stripe is gone, but the picture looks like crap, even my wife noticed how bad it was. there were also spot all over on the inside of the screen. Callled merlins back and they sent out a road tech who wiped the inside of the cabinet, and then sat and watched a couple dvd's and basicly acted like an idiot. I played some 720P video out of my xbox 360 to show him how bad it looks, and he told me it's not real HD it's just upconverted. i called back samsung and they told me to call them back out there and for them to fix it. I woldn't trust these guys with my remote let alone my $3000 tv. I opened the side acces panel and looked inside and there is dust everywhere and a scratch on the mirror. They said the part they replaced has nothing to do with picture quality.

Please point me in the right dircection. :mad: :mad: :mad:

fogot to mention my specs

HL-R5678w
directv hdvr2( tivo) non high def
xbox 360
only have one HD channel PBS (it used to look great but now looks terible)

Cmanwill, that is ridiculous. I've tried to spread the word but I can only do so much if you don't check here first. lol. It would help if there is a document that shows they cleaned the inside of the cabinet.

I know people have complained about a LE not being as good as the first but I don't know how that's possible or what parts are involved? People here sit with a bad image fearing that it can get worse with a service call. That doesn't make sense to me. The parts are modular and removing one part shouldn't affect the others. You aren't the first to report it but I still don't have an explanation. You might check your settings to be sure nothing has changed.

Definitely call them back. You know what they did and what they have to fix now. All of the parts are easy to replace. There was no reason to touch the mirror, the plastic specs were on the screen. Its hard to know if the dust was from your house or not. You can watch the tech. as they replace the mirror. I'm on my third set. The first set was full of those plastic specs all over the screen. I sent it back, got another damaged set and finally love mine. I'm on my second LE now.

It seems to depend on where you live as to how certified the techs are. It also seems those outside metro areas are more likely to get their set picked up. That isn't right. The LE is replaced in less time it takes to pickup and drop off the set. I think they should at least replace the mirror. Call Samsung back and see if there is someone else in your area to address the new image issue. Keep us posted.

... they replaced the light engine. ...They said the part they replaced has nothing to do with picture quality. Do these guys have a service manual and did they read it? According to the service manual, after replacing the "optical engine," you need to check the following: Front LCD, Index Delay, Actuator Gain, V-Position, H-Position, CCA and Tilt Focus. All of these could impact "picture quality." Don't know whether or not the techs changed/adjusted these but sounds as if there is a good chance they missed something. Without a description of how the PQ deteriorated, can not speculate on what adjustment was missed. On the otherhand, you just might have gotten a bad "new" light engine.

Regretably, depending on how isolated you are (Idaho Falls?), you might have to continue dealing with these guys. If you can, don't let them take the set to the shop. Watch them do the work in your place. Except for the CCA adjustments, no special equipment is needed and the adjustments should take no more than an hour or so.

Hey guys...I am seriously considering the 67-inch Samsung...but a salesguy at Tweeter told me to wait for the new Sony SXRD's with 'true' 1080p. But I thought the Samsung pic looked amazing on the HLR-6768.

Any thoughts from 6768 owners? What has been your experiences with this tv? I will also go back through this thread to get some ideas. I know the Sony has some issues, but the Sammy does as well.

the picture quality on my set looks a lot grainier than it used to, and also lots of color gradiation. The flesh tones look very blotchy as they move lighter to darker pigment. i don't know if that help you figure out what they missed. in reality it just looks like a 700 big screen you would buy at wal-mart.

NOT COOL

Thanks for your replies guys i realy apreciate it and any future comments.

I will keep you posted with my adventures in futility

Cmanwill, have them replace the mirror and then call Samsung for a new issue in a little while. You can call Samsung any time. It probably is related but like you said you don't want them touching your set again. As a strategy I would hold off calling the service company or Samsung about the new issues right now. Call the service company and see what they have to say about replacing the mirror. Let's see what they say. On the one hand you know they damaged it but on the other hand they know they will get reimbursed for it by Samsung anyway so they shouldn't make a big deal of it. If you don't get the answer you're looking for, that they will have to order the mirror and replace it in your house as soon as they get it, then let them know you're calling Samsung. The mirror takes more time to replace than the LE but I think its just as easy. Good luck and keep us posted.

the picture quality on my set looks a lot grainier than it used to, and also lots of color gradiation. The flesh tones look very blotchy as they move lighter to darker pigment. Color gradations and blotchyness could be the result of not setting the Index Delay after changing the light engine. (Could you supply a photo?) Last year there were a couple of cases reported where in the tech changed out the light engine without making this adjustment resulting in the colors being screwed up (blotchy, funny looking, flourescent, posterize(?)) The adjustment is simple to do but requires accessing the service menu.

Just wanted to update you on what's going on.

Merlins slaid they did all the adjustments that they were suposed to ( and no, I don't belive them), and i probaly got a bad light engine. So they are oredering a new light engine, and will call me when it's in.

They are refusing to do the work in my house, and say they have to take it to their shop.

I am so tired of dealing with these guys, and just want tmy nice picture back

also how do i access the service menu so i can check and see if the adjustments have been done.

Thanks all

You should do a search at top for "SM." There are pages and pages of detailed info. Be careful since its easy to press the wrong button and can void your warranty. Someone here will respond but searching will get a faster answer. What about the mirror? Tell them you're calling Samsung. Wtf?

Just wanted to update you on what's going on.

Merlins slaid they did all the adjustments that they were suposed to ( and no, I don't belive them), and i probaly got a bad light engine. So they are oredering a new light engine, and will call me when it's in.

They are refusing to do the work in my house, and say they have to take it to their shop.

I am so tired of dealing with these guys, and just want tmy nice picture back

also how do i access the service menu so i can check and see if the adjustments have been done.

Thanks all

Gees, do these people not know the meaning of customer appreciation or better yet, customer service?!

Just to let you know, as a dealer, my advice to you would be to call Samsung first and foremost. You are covered under their warranty and at least they won't make you take your set anywhere, 1-800-SAMSUNG. I really wouldn't advise accessing the service menu, to me, that would just be a little too risky, wouldn't want your warranty voided when they would be more than happy to send someone to fix the issue for you.

When i purchased my 56in - the first two sets I received had the "tape on the screen" issue. So I had my 3rd set in a 10 day period - that was back in october. Then about 60 days ago - I started to see the shadow on the left side. Over time - it got bigger and bigger.
When it hit about 4 inches wide - I called the repair of the store i purchased from PC Richards. They came out to look at it 2 weeks ago and said - yes, LE - I need to order the part. Today they came with the new LE. When they took the old one out - I could see the famous tape around the lens enclosure - and why it was a problem on the 2 previous sets. When the Tech took the new LE out of the box, it was clear that they fixed the "tape problem" - the new unit did not have tape - but more of a plastic shroud. The whole process took 20 minutes - the tech told me the "horror stories" on the Toshiba (3 hours to
change out the LE and 6 hours on the new sony's)

I asked him if he need to adjust "anything" in service mode and he said no - all factory set
with the new LE. I don't have a service manual - but given some posting here - I can get into service mode - the previous LE had ~1780 hours

I asked him if he has done ANY 2nd replacements yet, he said no - that he thought the problems were fixed with the new LE's - I guess we will see. Has anyone posted that they replaced the LE more than once?

I sent an email to Eliab - to get a calibration - he seems to have a good rep - and I like to see what the Maximin quality viewing - looks like

Paulbp, sounds good. I know very few need another LE. I need one but my new issue are those white blobs in a certain dark scenes under certain lighting conditions. Others had other issues. You'd think by now and with next gen. that these old issues have been checked and fixed by now. You might also try getting the Velux install if you're considering calibration. That seems to work well and some decide against calibration after.

I asked him if he need to adjust "anything" in service mode and he said no - all factory set
with the new LE. I don't have a service manual - but given some posting here - I can get into service mode - the previous LE had ~1780 hours

That is blatantly wrong. The settings for the LE are on the digital module! I know since I had to have my digital module replaced due to hdmi inputs that would not work. Each LE has it's own idiosyncracies that can only be corrected on the digital module. If your picture is fine, it's by luck, not design. At the very least the tech should have adjusted the index for the color wheel in the service menu. There's a lot more he should have done such as adjust the vertical and horizontal.


I sent an email to Eliab - to get a calibration - he seems to have a good rep - and I like to see what the Maximin quality viewing - looks like

Great choice! He did my calibration and when my hdmi failed, he told my what I needed to do to retore calibration since the LE was not replaced. Took pictures of the relevant parts of the service menu (as suggested by Eliab) and restored the settings. Set is now back to it's superior calibrated state.

... also how do i access the service menu so i can check and see if the adjustments have been done.You might have found this info by now, but just in case....
1. You can not readily determine whether the adjustments have been made by just "looking" at service menu. You'd have to delve in a bit deeper and actually go through specific service procedures (e.g., Index Delay). No big deal in regard to difficulty but potentially hazardous to the operation of your set, if you make a mistake.

2. And, before even looking at the service menu, you should be prepared to go through each menu and write down every value, noting that the values in some menus are stored separately by input and, in the case of the Component inputs, by resolution.

3. WARNING: THE FOLLOWING CAN BE REALLY, REALLY DANGEROUS TO YOUR SANITY AND THE HEALTH OF YOUR TELEVISION!!! BEFORE EVEN THINKING ABOUT DOING THIS, WRITE DOWN ALL VALUES IN THE CCA AND CINEMA_CCA MENUS!!! As part of the installation of a new light engine, the tech is suppose to copy the CCA values from the DMD to the Digital Board using the "DMD - Digital" function in the Option menu in the Service Menus. When this process is completed all values in the CCA menu and the Cinema_CCA menu are replaced with values specific to the light engine that is installed. (Note the values in the menus will be different from the DMD values if someone had "calibrated" or tweaked the set's color coordinates after previously copying the DMD values to the Digital Board.) If you know that no one has "calibrated" or changed your set, one way to check whether the values were copied is to run the copy procedure again. If all the values change in the CCA and Cinema_CCA menus, the process was not done when the LE was changed. [During the too many hours I have been spending trying to figure out "how things work," I've used the copy function a number of times as the quickest way to get my set back to the original "out-of-the-box" condition in regard to the CCA (and only the CCA!). You'd need to verify that this is the case with your set because someone might have tweaked it before you received it. Again, write down all values before you do anything!] If your set looks better after running the copy procedure, you could leave it as is. If not, re-enter the old data back into the menus. (That's 46 two or three digit numbers. Tedium....)

4. Remember, I'm not an expert (just 2 months of trial and error under the belt). But, if you are really inclined to mess around with this stuff, send me a PM and we can discuss details. I personally suggest you ignore this and hound your service guys and Samsung until they get it right!

5. How to get into the Service Menu:
A. With the set ON, press Power-Mute-1-8-2-Power in quick succession on the TV remote. (If the set is already off, just do Mute-1-8-2-Power )
B. To exit the Service Menu, turn the set off. Wait. Then, turn the set back on. Some folks wait through a lamp cool down cycle. Some say wait a few seconds and turn back on to avoid the cool down cycle.
C. Use the Up and Down navigations buttons on the remote to move to a menu and to move to parameters within a menu.
D. Use the Enter button or Right navigation button to open a menu and/or select a menu parameter to change.
E. Use the right and Left navigation keys to change a parameter's value after it is selected.
F. Use the "Menu" key to move from setting a parameter back to a menu and to move from sub-menus back to main menus.

Use at your own risk. Take care!

I've got a HLR5078W purchased from Ultimate Electronics back in August '05. It's been perfect until just now.

From glancing a few posts, this seems to be a common occurance and can go away. It started about an hour ago and I took some pictures.

dracoirs [dot] com [slash] public [slash] dlpproblem [slash]

Take the spaces out and replace [dot] with . and [slash] with / and combine those because I don't have 5 posts to have a url...

So I should wait to see if it will go away or call for service?

I've got a HLR5078W purchased from Ultimate Electronics back in August '05. It's been perfect until just now.

From glancing a few posts, this seems to be a common occurance and can go away. It started about an hour ago and I took some pictures.

dracoirs [dot] com [slash] public [slash] dlpproblem [slash]

Take the spaces out and replace [dot] with . and [slash] with / and combine those because I don't have 5 posts to have a url...

So I should wait to see if it will go away or call for service?

Greetings, dracoirs!
My HL-R5078W had this shadow once a few months ago and cleared up on it's own after a couple of weeks. In early May it started again. At first it was only about 1/2 inch in width and started several inches from the top. It has gradually grown wider and was up to 1 3/4 inches at the widest point. It is now down to 1 1/4 inches wide. This problem presents itself on all inputs, even a video game system and DVD player. Samsung is taking care of the problem this week. I recommend you call Samsung customer service before the warranty expires. For me, they asked if the problem was on all inputs and then had me do a power off reset which didn't change anything. Then they started the service process.

Do these guys have a service manual and did they read it? According to the service manual, after replacing the "optical engine," you need to check the following: Front LCD, Index Delay, Actuator Gain, V-Position, H-Position, CCA and Tilt Focus. All of these could impact "picture quality." Don't know whether or not the techs changed/adjusted these but sounds as if there is a good chance they missed something. Without a description of how the PQ deteriorated, can not speculate on what adjustment was missed. On the otherhand, you just might have gotten a bad "new" light engine.

Regretably, depending on how isolated you are (Idaho Falls?), you might have to continue dealing with these guys. If you can, don't let them take the set to the shop. Watch them do the work in your place. Except for the CCA adjustments, no special equipment is needed and the adjustments should take no more than an hour or so.

donb 1948 thanks for the above and your last post. When I had my light engine changed out a couple of weeks ago, the kid did (knew) nothing. I even asked him if he needed to do something to get the new CCA values in. His response when he was done was "does it look ok". I gave up and sent him on his way. Since then I adjusted the Index Delay, and today based you your information regarding DMD to Digital Board got the correct CCA values in. Now, how is the Actuator Gain adjusted? I have what I consider a pretty good picture at this point, but want to finalize things.

For those of us not in a "major" city, service on the Samsungs is at best a crap shoot. The really scarry thing is that the shop that serviced my set is most likely servicing sets in Aspen for folks with real money. When I asked the kid if he had serviced any other Samsungs he said yes and that everyone was happy with what he did. It's really too bad that so few people have seen what the sets can do with just a little bit of calibration.

donb 1948 thanks for the above and your last post. Glad that info was of use to you. I was reluctant to post it because I don't want to be the catalyst for someone screwing-up their set.
Now, how is the Actuator Gain adjusted? The Actuator Gain controls what appears to a "focus" for the DMD. If it is incorrectly set, the picture will appear "soft."
1. Enter the Service Menu
2. Go to and enter menu #10: SP Actuator
3. Select and enter parameter "Actuator Gain [Part 2]." On the parameter screen, you should get a cross hatch pattern. The value of the parameter will not be shown on the screen. (According to the Service Manual, Actuator Gain [Part1] is suppose to operate similarly to Part 2. A reference I found suggested using Part 2 and my personal experience is that Part 2 is "easier" to use than Part1. You do not need to adjust both.)
4. Get up close and personal with the screen so you can get a good look at the lines in the pattern. Adjust the parameter value until any "saw tooth" pattern on the cross hatch lines are minimized (or eliminated). You might want to run the parameter values to extremes to get a good look at the saw tooth when the setting is incorrect. This will help to recognize when the setting is correct. This is definitely an "eye ball" adjustment.
I have what I consider a pretty good picture at this point, but want to finalize things.Btw, for my set, the CCA values that are stored in the DMD do a decent job of getting the color coordinates close to the HD standard and D65 when in the Warm2 Color Mode (User Menu). There is still room for improvement if you are so inclined. However, either additional equipment or a professional calibrator would be needed. Take care.

Just a note, I wouldn't go in the SM before or in the middle of a service call. Someone here had a tech who was one sec. away from voiding the warranty. These techs who aren't familiar with the sets, who pick them up, who basically aren't as qualified as other techs will be happy to blame you and not them for any issue. Its never their fault so don't make it easy for them to find an excuse or explanation for any issue you have after its been serviced, before they have to correct something they did or before you are considering getting a service call. Consumers are not supposed to go in the SM and that's why its at your own risk.

Just a note, I wouldn't go in the SM before or in the middle of a service call. Someone here had a tech who was one sec. away from voiding the warranty. These techs who aren't familiar with the sets, who pick them up, who basically aren't as qualified as other techs will be happy to blame you and not them for any issue. Its never their fault so don't make it easy for them to find an excuse or explanation for any issue you have after its been serviced, before they have to correct something they did or before you are considering getting a service call. Consumers are not supposed to go in the SM and that's why its at your own risk.Absolutely agree. But, this does raise an interesting, quasi-legal question: Would the use of the Service Menu by an ISF certified calibrationist constitute a raison d'etre for voiding a warranty? (I suspect few, if any, are Samsung authorized/certified techs.) Just wondering...

That's been discussed before and its sort of a gray area. I think the bottom line is a professional calibrator won't change any settings that will affect the PQ in a bad way and won't change the wrong settings. In other words no one should have an issue with the settings made by a professional calibrator, either a bad tech, good tech, or a Samsung tech. lol. I'd hold the calibrator responsible if a tech. had an issue but I haven't heard of that happening and it would probably be a Samsung rep. Does anyone else really care what you might have done with your set?

Samsung provides those associated with the ISF Forum a significant amount of information. They are very supportive of the concept of display calibration. I see no reason for warranty problems unless someone were to break the display due to negligence.

Does anyone else really care what you might have done with your set? Besides the wife, no. :D

People have said like modding a car, they would have to determine that the mod caused the issue and not a component in the set, or your car failed due to the mod. Like a car, that is almost impossible unless there was something clearly done wrong and that would not be the case with a professional calibrator. It might be possible with some guy down the street f ing with his Civic. Lol.

Consumers are not supposed to go in the SM and that's why its at your own risk.

But nowhere in the manual or even on the service manual screens (I believe) does it say if you are a consumer that you should be here. There is no legalese that would protect samsung in this case. You are not cracking the case and modifying hardware. So until they start putting words in the manual and on the screens its all fair game.

Oh no. lol. The SM is not the UM. No where in the "package," the bag that has the manual, remote and all that stuff that is included with the set does it even mention the SM afaik. Its only places like this or people's past experience is the SM brought up.

Samsung doesn't mention the SM and doesn't want the headache of consumers messing things up. Imagine how many calls they'll get from people who still can't program a VCR that play around with the SM? Is it possible to get in the SM, yes. Is it at your own risk if you do something that Samsung does not instruct people to do, yes. Will they charge you for the service call if you randomly change settings for no reason, yes.

People can play around with the UM and not damage anything. The picture will still work and like anything else it would be up to the consumer to put the settings back so the picture isn't too red or something. Nothing in the UM can mess things up enough to need to call for service. That is not the case with the SM. I hope that clears things up although I probably got more people confused. lol.

Does anyone know where is the best place to purchase a replacement lightbulb for a HL-R6768W? I have had mine for almost a year and would like to get a spare just in case it goes out (hopefully not for another year or two). In addition, has anyone replaced one? Is it a complicated task?

Thanks in advance.

There are different views on this. I think its good to plan ahead but some extended warranties include one bulb replacement. It might be better to go that route since you get the extended warranty bundled. The other issue is price and warranty. How will you know if the lamp is bad? You can probably get the bulb cheaper on ebay or something these days than from Samsung. The directions are in the manual and I think its easy. I think there are some screws on the panel in back.

Does anyone know where is the best place to purchase a replacement lightbulb for a HL-R6768W? I have had mine for almost a year and would like to get a spare just in case it goes out (hopefully not for another year or two). In addition, has anyone replaced one? Is it a complicated task?

Thanks in advance.
Users can replace their own lamp. Be sure to NOT get any fingerprints on the bulb. You can get one from www.samsungparts.com.

just wanted to let know what is going on, Supposedly Merlins has a new light engine on order, though i am 98% sure that it's the setting that are screwed up not the light engine, So we'll wait to see if they can get it working any better and then go from there. THanks for the info on the SM, I'm not going to mess with anything until after they're done, but if they cant fix it, then I'll take maters into my own hands, samsung also said if they are not able to get it sixed they will replace the tv. Is this an option option i should be pursuing. thanks for any help.

Don't go into the SM until everything is either fixed the way you want or you've gone through Samsung completely. At some point the district field engineer or something would get involved and they would probably check the SM. They don't just give away new TVs. They go through all service options first. My first set had to be inspected by the cargo insurance co. since I guess I filed a claim on behalf of TVA, the people I bought the set from. They had to make sure the claim was legit. If the new LE doesn't fix it then I'm sure Samsung will have someone else diagnose and fix the set. This does seem to be an issue for those not in a metro area. People have lost their patience with the phone calls and delay. Everyone has had their set properly fixed but it took longer to for some. Try to stay calm and go through the hoops.

Hello,
I had my light engine replaced a couple of days ago (for left shadow) and I'm wondering if anyone else has run into this. No more than an hour later, the fan got louder, TV powered off and both green lights were flashing. Turn it back on, you get another 40 minutes or so of watching and boom, same thing occurs. My trusty tech, who knew nothing of left side shadow, seems to think that the color wheel is bad in this engine he JUST put in....is this possible? Did he miss something blatant in the SM for resetting my set? Is there a no brainer setting change that HAS to happen when replacing the LE? Anyway, he claims he's coming back today or tomorrow with another part.

Your thoughts?
marc in mn

P.S. I've decided I want to invest in a calibration...Dumb question, but do people like Eliab travel?

P.S. I've decided I want to invest in a calibration...Dumb question, but do people like Eliab travel?

Yes, they do. Both Eliab (out of NJ/NY) and his partner David Abrams (LA) travel.
I'm sure others here will name other ISF calibrators with loads of frequent flyer miles.

2mutch, that sounds more like an electrical connection somewhere in the set or something? Maybe what you think is the fan is the color wheel? I doubt it. Maybe when it powers off it is actually on with a black screen? I doubt it. I just don't see how a color wheel issue would cause those symptoms? It seems more like the way the new LE was installed than the color wheel. I would only get a third LE and not a new color wheel since I don't get the feeling that the tech. is positive that's the issue.

P.S. I've decided I want to invest in a calibration...Dumb question, but do people like Eliab travel?

Too much actually... :D Where are you located? Perhaps I can get you in touch with a reputable technician that services your area if I can't get to you.

Eliab

Samsung provides those associated with the ISF Forum a significant amount of information. They are very supportive of the concept of display calibration.
Now if they can only figure out the concept of building upon what they got right on their HLP and HLR line that would be great..:D

All joking aside, a manufacturer cannot legally void a warranty unless they can prove that whatever adjustments performed resulted in the malfunction of the unit.

Eliab

Eliab, is there a secret reset button or something like that not listed anywhere? What if you pulled out the LE or something? Would that get everything back to factory defaults for everything in the SM and UM?

I've been following this thread for some time and haven't seen this question.

First of all, I have a 5078 calibrated by Eliab and the picture is stunning - I wouldn't hesitate to recommend his services if he's available in your area.

My programming is via a Comcast old dual cable system and I have a Motorola DCT 6208 DVR (the best they offer here in Dallas TX.)

What I notice is when an HD program or scene ends and goes to black or to credits, the picture freezes for a second or two and skips. It also seems to have trouble handling explosive or very high action scenes. Does anyone have any experience with this DVR to ease my fear that it's only the DVR's processor that's the problem, and not the 5078 or HD medium in general? If it's the DVR, what do you recommend that I campaign for with Comcast that will do a superior job? Should I be considering DirecTV instead?

This set has spoiled me so badly that I just don't like settling for anything less than perfect!

rrldtx,

There are several places where this abnormaility may be occuring.

More than likely the signal is being compressed below the ATSC requirements for HD, in high action scenes this is pushing the threshold of what is required for the system to function properly causing the errors that you are seeing. At the end of programs or going to credits there is probably another big hit where the bit rate changes drastically causing something similar. This isn't to say that your box may be flawed or that your cable installation may also be at fault, but the problem with cable companies not meeting ATSC requirements is a widespread problem many are starting to take action about.

Try contacting your cable provider and have them check the issue out. They may swap our your box or correct any possible flaw in the installation.

Currently there are groups organizing to file suit against the cable companies that are charging customers for an "HD" package, but not providing a signal that meets the "HD" requirements from the ATSC - this is illegal. The cable providers feel they can downconvert the HD image they receive from broadcasters, add more compression, and call it HD, but it isn't and to charge for it as an "HD" package is against the law.

Regards,

That is interesting but I think it has more to do with the cable system and STBs than they wanting to charge for HD and call it HD. Afaik they are still MPEG2. When that changes I'm sure it will be truer HD.

Afa your PQ start with the newest STB they offer. I really think that is the issue, or at least is the simplest, cheapest and fastest component to test.

My friend and I are both on our second STB from Comsucks in less than a year.

I've read thru all the posts on sparkles in the other 1080p Samsung thread especially the posts by oldguy813. From what I understand he finally concluded the source material was the cause and had no issues with quality OTA broadcasts. This concerns me as my 5687W has sparkle with any material. I have the sharpness at 0 and contrast and brightness in the 40s and 50s, respectively but it's still not helping. I've even tried a Monster power conditioner to help reduce it.

The worst viewing comes from bright scenes on some of the "lesser" quality HD channels from Dish Network (input via HDMI). This programming is very hard to watch. All the Dish HD channels have noticable sparkle during bright scenes but the issue is less noticable on channels like HDNET and HGTV.

The Xbox 360 (set to 720p w/ Game Mode on component input) and Oppo DVD player (1080i with DVI-HDMI input) are falling somewhere in the middle of my sparkle concerns. The startup screen on the Oblivion game is horribly ridden with this problem but in-game it's only noticable during closeup lighting effects. DVD playback of course depends on the DVD disc but even great quality movies like Star Wars III have the sparkle at some point.

High signal strength OTA broadcasts are the least likely to have noticeable sparkle but bright scenes still are bothersome.

With some folks not seeing any sparkle and other folks seeing it only with certain sources, are mine abnormal?

thanx
PM1K

PM1K,

The first thing I would recommend to check regarding the "sparkle" is the cable as many digital cables can get damaged and result in a "sparkle" type of artifact. Unfortunately it seems you are having this issues on analog and digital sources and from everything. If so it may be time to call in a service technician as the set itself may be damaged.

Regards,

Portmaster1000, are you sure your sparkle is not the SSE, Silk Screen Effect? The screen is made up of small colored dots, like a silk screen I guess although I would've called it something different. That is normal and is more noticeable on bright, white or light colored, large images like on a commercial. You wouldn't see it in dark scenes. Usually there is high contrast or brightness. If you're familiar with SSE I wonder if you could better explain your situation since it sounds similar?

Eliab, is there a secret reset button or something like that not listed anywhere? What if you pulled out the LE or something? Would that get everything back to factory defaults for everything in the SM and UM
In the "SERVICE" menu page of the SM, there's a parameter titled "User Reset." I've never engaged it so I'm not sure if that would reset your SM. Replacing the LE, however, would definitely not induce a SM reset as I had this done on my 5078 and afterwards my SM settings were retained. The UM, on the other hand, is automatically reset as soon as you enter the SM.

Eliab

Wow, that would be interesting if that worked. People should record their SM settings when making changes regardless. People could reset before a service call. Who me? lol. Now if we could find a guinea pig, I mean someone nice enough to volunteer and try that.

Now if we could find a guinea pig, I mean someone nice enough to volunteer and try that. I previously used that "User Reset" function in the Service Menu just to see what it would reset. As best I could tell, it did not "reset" anything in the SM. There was no way to tell if it impacted the UM because, as noted, the act of entering the SM resets all user settings in the UM.

BTW, Not sure you really want every thing reset to "factory defaults." The setting in my SM as received did not match all of the default setting described in the service manual. Some of the parameters were vastly different from the defaults.

Portmaster1000, are you sure your sparkle is not the SSE, Silk Screen Effect? The screen is made up of small colored dots, like a silk screen I guess although I would've called it something different. That is normal and is more noticeable on bright, white or light colored, large images like on a commercial. You wouldn't see it in dark scenes. Usually there is high contrast or brightness. If you're familiar with SSE I wonder if you could better explain your situation since it sounds similar?


I just realized I posted this in the wrong thread... It should have went into the HLS owners one. Sorry, I'll repost other there.

Thanks for the replies tho!
PM1K

There's an Audiop and Video out on my 6168.
If I am viewing a digital (480P) cable channel using a CableCard and I plug cables into the Audio/video out what format would I be getting?
i.e. Analog or digital?
Thanks

I previously used that "User Reset" function in the Service Menu just to see what it would reset. As best I could tell, it did not "reset" anything in the SM.
Good to know. ;)

Eliab

I have a 6168 that has had a significant drop in light output over the last 2-3 days. Regardless of the input (HDMI1- HDTIVO,HDMI2-HDCable DVR, Component 1-DVD, AV via composite-Standard Def TIVO, AV via S vid-DVD, Tivo, DVDR) all are dim to the point that you have to strain to see the image at all. The various picture modes have little or no impact on the brightness of the image.
With any ambient light the image is almost unwatchable. If there is a image with a "low average light level" you cannot see most of the image with the lights out in the room.
If I back down the brightness the image only gets a little darker, but pumping up the contrast has almost no impact on the image.
The Set is approx 10 mos old with 844 hours and when new was almost too bright. Now I am squinting. Has anybody else experienced a similar problem? Should I have the unit serviced?

Thanks

Don,

This is almost assuredly indicative of a lamp that needs replacement. I have had clients that have had to do this after only 100 hours of usage and others after 10,000! Being as the lamp is covered by the TV's one year warranty, a service call is in order.

Good luck! :)

Eliab

Eliab,
thanks for the rapid reply.. and on a Sunday yet. You have set my mind at ease. To call service in AM.

Don,

You're very welcome! :)

Eliab

I too am a SSE victim. I see it all the time against a light background but my family does not. I wonder if I would still have gotten the SSE if I had got the 7178 instead?

I've bought a stand-by replacement lamp for my nearly one-year-old HLR5668W. When it arrived two days ago, I tried to test it by installing it, only to have the TV refuse to turn back on -- three blinking lights on the front (indicating, according to the manual, a lamp problem). When I put the original lamp back in the TV, it still wouldn't turn back on.

After verifying that the lamp was properly inserted in its socket and the chassis lamp cover fully screwed down, I called Samsung, which has scheduled a service call at the end of this week.

Am I missing something obvious here? The manual (at p. 139) states: "After replacing the lamp, align the lamp cover with the groove and secure the screws." I've examined the thing very closely and don't see any "groove."

BTW, the Sammy CSR with whom I spoke told me that opening the TV to change the lamp "voided the warranty." Also, the replacement lamp has the same model number as the sticker on the side of the TV, but the original lamp doesn't.

BTW, the Sammy CSR with whom I spoke told me that opening the TV to change the lamp "voided the warranty." This makes no sense... Why would Samsung post instructions in the "Owner's" manual for changing the lamp and not mention anything about voiding the warranty? I believe the CSR missed the mark in that response.

One question- if anyone knows- is there a way to change channels via rs-232? I'm looking at the 'rs232' sheet that came with it, but do not see a command to change channels. Seems odd you can change picture,sound,inputs,volume but not change channels. Maybe I'm looking right at it, but I don't see it.

As far as I can tell, RS-232 on the HLR's is just about as broken as can be. There are no discrete power codes, and many of the functions in the documentation simply don't work. As an example, I can switch from PC to HDMI source, but I cannot switch back. Power will toggle off, but not on.

I'vew sent emails to the guy at Samsung who actually talks to the folks in Korea, and gotten one reply ... after that, nothing. I'm about to raise a stink with whatever customer "satisfaction" deptartment I can find, as this has been going on now for several months.

HLR5078 here. This should be a pretty simple one, yet I can't figure it out. In trying to get digital channels (i.e. 30-1) via an antenna, is it possible to set the channel to one that I have no signal for? That way I could aim the antenna, all the while the TV is trying to pick up that channel. When I try just entering the channel, it just keeps me at the current channel unless there is a signal.
Thanks!

I too am a SSE victim. I see it all the time against a light background but my family does not. I wonder if I would still have gotten the SSE if I had got the 7178 instead?
Try turning your contrast down to 40-50. This might help diminish the SSE.

I've bought a stand-by replacement lamp for my nearly one-year-old HLR5668W. When it arrived two days ago, I tried to test it by installing it, only to have the TV refuse to turn back on -- three blinking lights on the front (indicating, according to the manual, a lamp problem). When I put the original lamp back in the TV, it still wouldn't turn back on.

After verifying that the lamp was properly inserted in its socket and the chassis lamp cover fully screwed down, I called Samsung, which has scheduled a service call at the end of this week.

Am I missing something obvious here? The manual (at p. 139) states: "After replacing the lamp, align the lamp cover with the groove and secure the screws." I've examined the thing very closely and don't see any "groove."

BTW, the Sammy CSR with whom I spoke told me that opening the TV to change the lamp "voided the warranty." Also, the replacement lamp has the same model number as the sticker on the side of the TV, but the original lamp doesn't.
When you replaced the lamp, did you remove the entire back cover? If so, did you replace it before testing out the new lamp? If not, the kill switch would have been activated giving you the error message. Try replacing the back cover again if this was the case.

This makes no sense... Why would Samsung post instructions in the "Owner's" manual for changing the lamp and not mention anything about voiding the warranty? I believe the CSR missed the mark in that response.
Actually, that's a selling point. That is the ability for an end user to swap out the lamp themselves.

Eliab

When you replaced the lamp, did you remove the entire back cover? If so, did you replace it before testing out the new lamp? If not, the kill switch would have been activated giving you the error message. Try replacing the back cover again if this was the case.


Thanks, Eliab. All that I removed was the rectangular plastic cover directly behind the lamp. I've now removed and replaced it several times, with both the original and replacement lamps, and turned the TV back on only when the cover is in place. I've looked for a switch back there that's activated when the cover is off, and all I see is a small, blue plastic rod that seems to be engaged when the cover is fully screwed down. This one has me stumped.

Thanks, Eliab. All that I removed was the rectangular plastic cover directly behind the lamp. I've now removed and replaced it several times, with both the original and replacement lamps, and turned the TV back on only when the cover is in place. I've looked for a switch back there that's activated when the cover is off, and all I see is a small, blue plastic rod that seems to be engaged when the cover is fully screwed down. This one has me stumped.
Yup. That's the switch that I'm referring to. Tape it so that it's aimed up or towards the back of your display. I bet you that fixes it. ;)

Eliab

Yup. That's the switch that I'm referring to. Tape it so that it's aimed up or towards the back of your display. I bet you that fixes it. ;)

Eliab

Thanks again, Eliab. The switch in question, shown below, is angled at 45 degrees down from vertical when the lamp cover's removed. It can be moved until it points straight up or 90 degrees down. I've tried holding it in both those positions while I restart the TV, without success. :(

http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/9440/cyn00118vl.jpg

Thanks again, Eliab. The switch in question, shown below, is angled at 45 degrees down from vertical when the lamp cover's removed. It can be moved until it points straight up or 90 degrees down. I've tried holding it in both those positions while I restart the TV, without success.

Okay...I love a challenge...:D Well, I'm a bit stumped as well as the procedure ought to be fairly straightforward. But to be perfectly honest with you, I've yet to replace a lamp on an HL-S. Tell you what, if you don't have this figured out by tomorrow morning, I'll remove and replace the lamp on my 5088 and would be more than happy to go over the entire procedure with you over the phone at a time that's convenient for you. :)

Eliab

Okay...I love a challenge...:D Well, I'm a bit stumped as well as the procedure ought to be fairly straightforward. But to be perfectly honest with you, I've yet to replace a lamp on an HL-S. Tell you what, if you don't have this figured out by tomorrow morning, I'll remove and replace the lamp on my 5088 and would be more than happy to go over the entire procedure with you over the phone at a time that's convenient for you. :)

Eliab


Eliab,

You're the man! I'll also take a stab at this.

Manatus, have you been to this sight:

http://product.samsung.com/DLPlight/DLPguideindex.html

Makes it look like a no brainer. However, I did notice some "markings" on the lamp cover panel near the position of the kill switch. I wonder if when you put the panel back on you have to snag the blue part of the switch which then pushes it down to be horizontal to the base?

Manatus, have you been to this sight:

http://product.samsung.com/DLPlight/DLPguideindex.html

Makes it look like a no brainer. However, I did notice some "markings" on the lamp cover panel near the position of the kill switch. I wonder if when you put the panel back on you have to snag the blue part of the switch which then pushes it down to be horizontal to the base?


I am familiar with that site. When the lamp cover is replaced, it pushes the blue part of the switch into a vertical, not horizontal, position.

Okay...I love a challenge...:D Well, I'm a bit stumped as well as the procedure ought to be fairly straightforward. But to be perfectly honest with you, I've yet to replace a lamp on an HL-S. Tell you what, if you don't have this figured out by tomorrow morning, I'll remove and replace the lamp on my 5088 and would be more than happy to go over the entire procedure with you over the phone at a time that's convenient for you. :)

Eliab

Thanks again, Eliab. Still no success, even after I used tape to put the blue switch into its vertical position before reattaching the lamp cover. I have an HL-R, not an HL-S and don't know if you could replicate the problem on your HL-S.

I am familiar with that site. When the lamp cover is replaced, it pushes the blue part of the switch into a vertical, not horizontal, position.


Manatus,

I have a HLR-5078. Just took off the lamp panel. With the panel off, the front display flashes the lamp warning. Holding the switch in the vertical causes the lamp warning to go away and the TV starts up normally. This is with the panel off.

You either have a bad switch or the problem is elsewhere. If you have an ohm meter you can pull the plug off the switch and probe it.

Most likely, the switch is good and the problem is elsewhere. (Two blown bulbs? Not likely but posssible.) Sorry you're having this problem.

Jim

Thanks again, Eliab. Still no success, even after I used tape to put the blue switch into its vertical position before reattaching the lamp cover. I have an HL-R, not an HL-S and don't know if you could replicate the problem on your HL-S.

Did you physically touch the lamp with your fingers? If so, you really shouldn't as the oils can damage it. Even so, I don't believe that this would have immediately caused the error message.

Eliab

BTW: You can also test the switch by pulling the plug and sticking a short piece of wire into the plug to temporarily short it out. The Lamp warning light should then go out.

Ok I posted on the main board but looks like it probably should have been here to get some answers.

Anyway my HL-R5668W has the verticle shadow issue. Mine starts in the top left corner and gets larger as it gets to the bottom and is about 3/4 to 1in by the time it hits the bottom. I have a service guy coming out next week but with reading several post I am very nervous as it's a "mom and pop" type shop and I doubt they are familar with the service menu that I keep reading about.

Incase there is a slim chance that the guy knows more then just how to replace the LE what should I have him adjust? It sounds like there are a lot of settings that should be adjusted when the entire LE is replaced, is this true? I am still under factory warranty so I want to make sure everything is setup right.

By not adjusting anything and using the LE right out of the box with the current settings could this damage anything, this is what I am truely worried about?

Also is it worth getting the service manual? Is the OPERATION INSTRUCTION & INSTALLATION and the ALIGNMENT AND ADJUSTMENT sections worth it? It looks like most of the other sections I don't need, at least for now while it's still under warranty.

Thanks to all who offered me their thoughts about this one. I did pull the plug and short-circuited it with a piece of wire, and the 3 blinking lamps remain. At this point, I'm just going to wait for the scheduled service call. Perhaps Sammy will replace the LE; if it does I'll probably be asking Eliab to calibrate the set -- again.

I wasn't sure if it was you! Small world.. :D

Eliab

Last Saturday a technician came out to replace the LE for the left-side stripe issue. (6168) The whole thing took about 30 minutes.

When he was done replacing the LE, he went into the service menu and did a OPTION: DMD->DIGITAL. According to him (and the service manual) this copies the LE-specific (CCA ?) settings that are stored in the LE to the digital board, so that they are now visible in the service menu and will get used by the TV.

But I didn't notice until after he left that the colors are horrible! Yellow seems to be universally replaced by green. Looking at the CCA values in the service menu, I see that they are way off the default settings. I suspect that the LE had corrupted values stored in it.

Turning off the CCA makes the colors look much better. But I think this just causes the TV to use default values, instead of the factory-calibrated values stored in the LE. This makes for an acceptable display, but I can't help thinking that it should look better with the factory values, if they are valid. After all, there is a reason why each LE has its own CCA values stored. If this were not necessary the designers would have not implemented the DMD->DIGITAL command, and just always use defaults.

I have another tech scheduled to come this afternoon to fix it. Keeping my fingers crossed he doesn't just turn off the CCA also.

In preparation for his arrival I've put everything back to the way it was when the first tech left.

Last Saturday a technician came out to replace the LE for the left-side stripe issue. (6168) The whole thing took about 30 minutes.

When he was done replacing the LE, he went into the service menu and did a OPTION: DMD->DIGITAL. According to him (and the service manual) this copies the LE-specific (CCA ?) settings that are stored in the LE to the digital board, so that they are now visible in the service menu and will get used by the TV.

But I didn't notice until after he left that the colors are horrible! Yellow seems to be universally replaced by green. Looking at the CCA values in the service menu, I see that they are way off the default settings. I suspect that the LE had corrupted values stored in it.

Turning off the CCA makes the colors look much better. But I think this just causes the TV to use default values, instead of the factory-calibrated values stored in the LE. This makes for an acceptable display, but I can't help thinking that it should look better with the factory values, if they are valid. After all, there is a reason why each LE has its own CCA values stored. If this were not necessary the designers would have not implemented the DMD->DIGITAL command, and just always use defaults.

I have another tech scheduled to come this afternoon to fix it. Keeping my fingers crossed he doesn't just turn off the CCA also.

In preparation for his arrival I've put everything back to the way it was when the first tech left.

This is what scares me. I am scheduled for next week with my tech. Keep us posted and if the picture after the second tech, looks good see if he will give you details of what he did. Or hopefully a tech will see this and respond to "what should be adjusted after a LE replacement to get the best possible picture?"

This is what scares me. I am scheduled for next week with my tech. Keep us posted and if the picture after the second tech, looks good see if he will give you details of what he did. Or hopefully a tech will see this and respond to "what should be adjusted after a LE replacement to get the best possible picture?"

Here's the update:
Tech came and observed the obvious color distortion problem. First thing he does is goes into the service menu and copies the settings from the DIGITAL board to the DMD using OPTION: DIGITAL->DMD. I think he's guessing the first tech forgot to perform the copy from DMD to DIGITAL (reasonable assumption), but I notice he's using the wrong command, and copying the wrong direction! :eek:

So I whip out my service manual (probably was a mistake) and show him that it clearly states that after replacing the LE you have to do OPTION: DMD->DIGITAL.

Now he's confused, and is fascinated that I even HAVE a service manual. And he starts tweaking the CCA numbers to more closely equal the defaults printed in my service manual. Suddenly my service manual is his biggest tool!

After half an hour of tweaking (which I was hoping was just investigation), he announces that it looks pretty good now, and how do I like it? I start questioning his method and ask if there isn't a more scientific means for making these adjustments. His reply is that Samsung currently does not allow the technicians to carry a colorimiter, but that they rely on customer preferences instead. :(

So he's basically just eye-balling it. And he doesn't know when questioned what all the numbers he's adjusting do exactly. I told him this is not satisfactory to me, but that he shouldn't take it personally; I'll complain to Samsung about the policy. But I'm not optimistic about my one voice changing Samsung's policy or getting a free calibration.

So, I have to admit the color DOES look much better now. But I'm thinking it would look much better if properly adjusted.

Here's my guess as to what went wrong on the first tech visit: After replacing the LE, the tech did a OPTION: DIGITAL->DMD when he should have done DMD->DIGITAL. This essentially copied the settings from my first LE to the second one, which is a big oops. My reason for thinking this is because the second tech did the same, and yet he thought it was the correct thing to do. So I'm guessing there's a training hitch somewhere in the process.

I honestly did not watch carefully enough to see which command the first tech did for sure. I would recommend you pay attention to every little detail, and make sure he does this step right.

Good luch on your visit.

what is the best way to clean the sceen of my 6168w of dust and fingerprints etc???????????

Microwipes were recommended earlier in this thread. I've used them and they work great dry.

I've tried reading this post, but with over 300 pages I'd be here for months. Has anybody had a large issues w/ the 5688w? I found a display model for under 3K and want to buy it but am weary. Any help would greatly be appreciated.

what is the best way to clean the sceen of my 6168w of dust and fingerprints etc???????????

Monster cable sells a product that is designed to clean LCD/DLP screens and can be picked up at Best Buy, Circuit City, etc... It's about $15, a little high for a cleaning product but works rather nicely. I use it on on 5668W and have not seen any streaks, smears, or scratches from it. The cloth that comes with it will feel like it is going to scratch the screen but that is only because it is very fine and your hand is rough.

Or any computer type store will sell an LCD screen cleaner.

I've tried reading this post, but with over 300 pages I'd be here for months. Has anybody had a large issues w/ the 5688w? I found a display model for under 3K and want to buy it but am weary. Any help would greatly be appreciated.

Why would you want to pay that much for a display model?? I believe the newer HLS 61" models are available around that price. Check it out. I wouldn't get a display model myself because of lamp life and who-knows-who-has-done-what-to-it factor.

The picture is the most important thing when you are buying these HDTVs and if that is compromised, why bother?

Just my 2 cents.

Love the design primarily. Love the look of the set. It's awesome

I've tried reading this post, but with over 300 pages I'd be here for months. Has anybody had a large issues w/ the 5688w? I found a display model for under 3K and want to buy it but am weary. Any help would greatly be appreciated.

Join the club. I have the 5668W and picked mine up for just over $3k last October brand new. So depends on how much under $3k your talking about, although we are not suppose to talk prices. I think you can get a newer set that supports 1080p in on component and HDMI for around $3k.

Anyway I have been happy with my set, up until about a week ago. I now have the verticle side shadow, which is a shadow on the left side of the screen that is about 3/4 to 1in. This seems to be the main problem that I can find with the HL-Rxxx8W's, although I'm sure other people may have other issues. The problem seems to happen with in the first year and requires and entire lamp engine replacement. I have a service tech coming out next week to look at mine. The problem does not seem to come back after the lamp engine is replaced, which is good. However finding a tech that knows what they are doing and leaving you with a good picture seems to be the biggest issue.

YIKEs. The store where I'm looking at has had this display for about 6months. a few hdred under 3k is theprice

YIKEs. The store where I'm looking at has had this display for about 6months. a few hdred under 3k is theprice

I have this TV and it has worked well for the 9 months I have had it. Highly recommended. When I bought it in October 2005 I didn't pay much more than you are mentioning. And I just did a search and a few stores, including TV Authority, which everyone here speaks very highly of, still have it for close to your price, new. I wouldn't buy a display DLP. Too many bulb hours, too much customer poking and who knows what else. If you buy online you save the tax so the price for a new one is probably the same as the used.

thank you for the advice. I will take it and use it. Wasn't too comfortable with display model. Thanks again.

How long do these 1080p Samsung DLP's take to "warm up"? I know with my "old" Mitsubishi DLP's the warm up period could be quite a while. Any info is greatly appriciated.

The only warm up is for the bulb to come to full brightness. I've never timed it, but ~30 - 45 seconds?

How long do these 1080p Samsung DLP's take to "warm up"? I know with my "old" Mitsubishi DLP's the warm up period could be quite a while. Any info is greatly appriciated.

Most DLP's seem to take about the same time...Watchable about 20 seconds; about 1 or 2 minutes to be about 95% there; IMHO about 10 min for color temp to be correct. Comparable to most CRT's I have seen regarding warm up.

How long do these 1080p Samsung DLP's take to "warm up"? I know with my "old" Mitsubishi DLP's the warm up period could be quite a while. Any info is greatly appriciated.

Less then half a beer. Seriously though, what people have quoted is about right, 20-30s. It's very negligible, and after about a week you don't even think about it.

I think people turn it on before they go to sit down, I guess twenty seconds although I never timed it. You don't want to miss anything. lol.

Warm up is familiar to those of us who grew up with old vacuum tube sets. It similar except you don't get to burn holes in your retinas while watching the screen collapse into a tiny dot of light when turning off the set. ;)

Quick question, I searched the forum and couldn't find the answer. I have a HL-R5078W will this TV accept a 1080p signal over the hdmi input? I think the answer is no, unless there was an upgrade i missed.

thanks

Quick question, I searched the forum and couldn't find the answer. I have a HL-R5078W will this TV accept a 1080p signal over the hdmi input? I think the answer is no, unless there was an upgrade i missed.

thanks

No. You didn't miss any upgrade. :)

Quick question, I searched the forum and couldn't find the answer. I have a HL-R5078W will this TV accept a 1080p signal over the hdmi input? I think the answer is no, unless there was an upgrade i missed.

thanks

You are correct - no 1080P input other than the VGA input on the HL-Rxxx8W series.

Best regards,

Steve

I have unsuccessfully scoured the forum for service menu settings for my HL-R5678W. I was hoping to find some basic SM settings that would make my picture better. Ideally, I would have loved to find settings for the Sammy 1080p DLPs and Oppo upconverting players. Does anyone have a link, pic, etc. with any of these settings? I would really appreciate it.

lb60, I think this thread is dead? Use the search on the top right, below the page number. You should try SM settings. There are pages and pages of the same info here somewhere.

Did anyone else just get a couple of TVA emails?

I did, I was just logging in here to ask that.

I got some empty email messages with just the sig from TVA.

Well they asked if there was something they could do for the inconvenience. I was going to ask for a trade in or special discount. lol.

I just started getting an arch of discoloration (picture is there but much darker) along the bottom of the screen... time to use that warranty....

Here's the update:
Tech came and observed the obvious color distortion problem. First thing he does is goes into the service menu and copies the settings from the DIGITAL board to the DMD using OPTION: DIGITAL->DMD. I think he's guessing the first tech forgot to perform the copy from DMD to DIGITAL (reasonable assumption), but I notice he's using the wrong command, and copying the wrong direction! :eek:

So I whip out my service manual (probably was a mistake) and show him that it clearly states that after replacing the LE you have to do OPTION: DMD->DIGITAL.

Now he's confused, and is fascinated that I even HAVE a service manual. And he starts tweaking the CCA numbers to more closely equal the defaults printed in my service manual. Suddenly my service manual is his biggest tool!

After half an hour of tweaking (which I was hoping was just investigation), he announces that it looks pretty good now, and how do I like it? I start questioning his method and ask if there isn't a more scientific means for making these adjustments. His reply is that Samsung currently does not allow the technicians to carry a colorimiter, but that they rely on customer preferences instead. :(

So he's basically just eye-balling it. And he doesn't know when questioned what all the numbers he's adjusting do exactly. I told him this is not satisfactory to me, but that he shouldn't take it personally; I'll complain to Samsung about the policy. But I'm not optimistic about my one voice changing Samsung's policy or getting a free calibration.

So, I have to admit the color DOES look much better now. But I'm thinking it would look much better if properly adjusted.

Here's my guess as to what went wrong on the first tech visit: After replacing the LE, the tech did a OPTION: DIGITAL->DMD when he should have done DMD->DIGITAL. This essentially copied the settings from my first LE to the second one, which is a big oops. My reason for thinking this is because the second tech did the same, and yet he thought it was the correct thing to do. So I'm guessing there's a training hitch somewhere in the process.

I honestly did not watch carefully enough to see which command the first tech did for sure. I would recommend you pay attention to every little detail, and make sure he does this step right.

Good luch on your visit.

Tech finally came out today, 2weeks since I reported the issue. Anyway 2 guys came out and looked at it, "yep there's a shadow of some sort." Plugged in their color tester (that looked older then me) and it was there as well. They opened up the 2 side access panels and wiped the inside of the screen and played with the mirror some and finally gave up. They said they would have to order the light engine and replace it. Exactly what I had thought they would have had to do and mentioned before they started poking around in it. I asked "well are there any type of adjustments that need to be made after the new light engine is installed?" They said "nope, everything is stored in the TV's memory." I'll be damned if I end up with a $3k paper weight.

Ok I hate to look stupid but what do you mean by DMD board?

Tech finally came out today, 2weeks since I reported the issue. Anyway 2 guys came out and looked at it, "yep there's a shadow of some sort." Plugged in their color tester (that looked older then me) and it was there as well. They opened up the 2 side access panels and wiped the inside of the screen and played with the mirror some and finally gave up. They said they would have to order the light engine and replace it. Exactly what I had thought they would have had to do and mentioned before they started poking around in it. I asked "well are there any type of adjustments that need to be made after the new light engine is installed?" They said "nope, everything is stored in the TV's memory." I'll be damned if I end up with a $3k paper weight.

Ok I hate to look stupid but what do you mean by DMD board?

Part BS. DMD is the Digitial Micro Device. It's the Texas Instruments chip. It's in the light engine.

Each light engine has it's own settings. There is no way to manufacture LE's that are exactly the same. Color wheel, index into the color wheel, light bulb color temp, physical dimentional differences, etc. have to be adjusted for. In addition, the light bulb changes color temp and brightness to a great degree in the first 100 hours. It tends to stabilize somewhat over that period but will still slowly degrade.

Repeated calibrations IMO are recommended.

[Soapbox=On]
That said, this is no different than plasma which continues to degrade until it eventually is unwatchable/unrepairable. At least you can repair your DLP.
[/Soapbox=Off]

As far as making adjustments, I have read in this thread that when a new LE is installed they can copy the LE settings to the Digital Board. This is the board / component that has all of the connectors from your TV to the outside world. The settings in this component must be set to match the LE. If your installers only install the LE and do nothing in the SM, they do not know what they are doing.

Even so, the picture quality while great from the factory, can be improved upon. I am a huge proponent of getting these sets calibrated. Samsung has made a great TV but it is impractable from a financial point of view to calibrate each and every set to their maximum performance. Things change over time and each set is unique. Even still, they do a very good job out of the box.

Kinda on a rant, but I hope it helps.

Part BS. DMD is the Digitial Micro Device. It's the Texas Instruments chip. It's in the light engine.

Each light engine has it's own settings. There is no way to manufacture LE's that are exactly the same. Color wheel, index into the color wheel, light bulb color temp, physical dimentional differences, etc. have to be adjusted for. In addition, the light bulb changes color temp and brightness to a great degree in the first 100 hours. It tends to stabilize somewhat over that period but will still slowly degrade.

Repeated calibrations IMO are recommended.

[Soapbox=On]
That said, this is no different than plasma which continues to degrade until it eventually is unwatchable/unrepairable. At least you can repair your DLP.
[/Soapbox=Off]

As far as making adjustments, I have read in this thread that when a new LE is installed they can copy the LE settings to the Digital Board. This is the board / component that has all of the connectors from your TV to the outside world. The settings in this component must be set to match the LE. If your installers only install the LE and do nothing in the SM, they do not know what they are doing.

Even so, the picture quality while great from the factory, can be improved upon. I am a huge proponent of getting these sets calibrated. Samsung has made a great TV but it is impractable from a financial point of view to calibrate each and every set to their maximum performance. Things change over time and each set is unique. Even still, they do a very good job out of the box.

Kinda on a rant, but I hope it helps.

Thanks! That helps clear up a couple of things. Maybe worth my while to get a service manual and read up a little on how the DLP's really work (I know the basics but not the nuts and bolts). I am not all that confident that the techs will do anymore then just replace the LE and call it a day, especially after the "all the settings are stored in the TV's memory" comment.

hey guys whats up, i have a HLR5688 pedestal tv and im getting my new toshiba hd dvd player tomorrow.. my question is since this tv doesnt accept 1080p over hdmi.. im not gonna be able to watch the hd dvds in its full 1080p res? or will the tv do the 1080i upconversion to 1080p thats its supposed to display?

sorry for my ignorance im pretty new to this high def subject :P

Question for gamers (with a HLR-5688W):

IGN.com just had a piece on game lag, and kinda singled out Samsung DLPs as the worst culprits. Can anyone speak from experience about the 56 pedestal model and its ability to keep up with video games?

Hi,
I have the HLR6178W for about 2 years now and a few months ago the set would start turning itself off, it started off at just once a day or less, progressivley getting worse over the comming weeks until it was turning off every hour or two.

My 1st thought was perhaps it was a thermal shutdown so I took the back cover off and looked at the fan/heatsink for dust buildup. The inside was spotless, I could not see any dust what so ever but I proceeded to brush the fan and heatsink with a paintbrush/vacume etc. I also unseated and reseated the lamp.
To my surprise this fixed the problem- for a while. Perhaps 4 or 5 months later the problem has returned- again I did the same as last time (and again the inside was spotless- no dust) and again my the problem has gone (for the time being).

I'm confused as to what is causing this and even more confused as to how I'm fixing it. Either the temperature shutdown is extremely sensititive in that the miniscual amount of dust buildup (remeber it looks spotless) causes the problem or somehow re-seating the lamp is fixing it. Just wondering if anyone else is having this problem or has any ideas?

plucka, time to replace the lamp

New lamp after so few hours? I thought they were supposed to last 4-5 years.
Also doesn't explain why reseating the lamp fixes the problem?

Here's the update:
Tech came and observed the obvious color distortion problem. First thing he does is goes into the service menu and copies the settings from the DIGITAL board to the DMD using OPTION: DIGITAL->DMD. I think he's guessing the first tech forgot to perform the copy from DMD to DIGITAL (reasonable assumption), but I notice he's using the wrong command, and copying the wrong direction! :eek:

So I whip out my service manual (probably was a mistake) and show him that it clearly states that after replacing the LE you have to do OPTION: DMD->DIGITAL.

Now he's confused, and is fascinated that I even HAVE a service manual. And he starts tweaking the CCA numbers to more closely equal the defaults printed in my service manual. Suddenly my service manual is his biggest tool!

After half an hour of tweaking (which I was hoping was just investigation), he announces that it looks pretty good now, and how do I like it? I start questioning his method and ask if there isn't a more scientific means for making these adjustments. His reply is that Samsung currently does not allow the technicians to carry a colorimiter, but that they rely on customer preferences instead. :(

So he's basically just eye-balling it. And he doesn't know when questioned what all the numbers he's adjusting do exactly. I told him this is not satisfactory to me, but that he shouldn't take it personally; I'll complain to Samsung about the policy. But I'm not optimistic about my one voice changing Samsung's policy or getting a free calibration.

So, I have to admit the color DOES look much better now. But I'm thinking it would look much better if properly adjusted.

Here's my guess as to what went wrong on the first tech visit: After replacing the LE, the tech did a OPTION: DIGITAL->DMD when he should have done DMD->DIGITAL. This essentially copied the settings from my first LE to the second one, which is a big oops. My reason for thinking this is because the second tech did the same, and yet he thought it was the correct thing to do. So I'm guessing there's a training hitch somewhere in the process.

I honestly did not watch carefully enough to see which command the first tech did for sure. I would recommend you pay attention to every little detail, and make sure he does this step right.

Good luch on your visit.

Pumbaa - you mentioned that you have a service manual and that it states in the service manual to do a OPTION: DMD->DIGITAL. Now I believe that I understand what this does, which is copies the LE settings from the DMD to the Digital board which is the board that has all the connectors on it?

My main question is, that is what is stated in the service manual after a LE replacement? Also where did you get your service manual? Is it any different then what is listed on ebay:
Item number: 9743761512
Sorry had trouble getting a hyper link to work correctly.

Thanks! That helps clear up a couple of things. Maybe worth my while to get a service manual and read up a little on how the DLP's really work (I know the basics but not the nuts and bolts). I am not all that confident that the techs will do anymore then just replace the LE and call it a day, especially after the "all the settings are stored in the TV's memory" comment.

You're welcome! :D

This is my opinion and is based on a few things I know about the Sammys. I'm not a service tech. That said, DO NOT LET THEM INSTALL THE LE AND CALL IT A DAY! That is patently wrong! There are certain settings that are absolutely necessary to adkust to get the correct brightness and color. IMO the most important is the index delay. If this is set wrong, the colors will definitely be off. This delay tells the Sammy the position of the color wheel. This differs from set to set and an LE replacement will require that this get reset. There are others in this thread who have given a lot more detail about what settings change when swapping out the LE.


BTW: I mispoke earlier. DMD = Digital Micromirror Device or Digital Mirror Device.

As far as I can tell, RS-232 on the HLR's is just about as broken as can be. There are no discrete power codes, and many of the functions in the documentation simply don't work. As an example, I can switch from PC to HDMI source, but I cannot switch back. Power will toggle off, but not on.

I'vew sent emails to the guy at Samsung who actually talks to the folks in Korea, and gotten one reply ... after that, nothing. I'm about to raise a stink with whatever customer "satisfaction" deptartment I can find, as this has been going on now for several months.

Anbody interested in RS232 remote control should contact Samsung; apparently they now have a "fix" for this --- it involves replacing a board. I'll post more later after it's been done.

You're welcome! :D

This is my opinion and is based on a few things I know about the Sammys. I'm not a service tech. That said, DO NOT LET THEM INSTALL THE LE AND CALL IT A DAY! That is patently wrong! There are certain settings that are absolutely necessary to adkust to get the correct brightness and color. IMO the most important is the index delay. If this is set wrong, the colors will definitely be off. This delay tells the Sammy the position of the color wheel. This differs from set to set and an LE replacement will require that this get reset. There are others in this thread who have given a lot more detail about what settings change when swapping out the LE.


BTW: I mispoke earlier. DMD = Digital Micromirror Device or Digital Mirror Device.

Thanks again! "There are others in this thread who have given a lot more detail about what settings change when swapping out the LE" That is what I have been searching for but with over 300pages of post to read through I am having a hard time finding that information. I have also read a few other post with basically the same question "What should be done after a LE replacement".

To start, after they replace the LE are all the settings that should be looked at listed in the service manual? Will they need any equipment to "properly" adjust any of the settings?

I do not have a service manual yet but will pick one up. It has just been my experience in the past that most service manuals are just barely better then the user manuals, ie they don't really tell you much. I just did not want to spend $30-40 for a manual that tells me how to change the channel, program the remote, hook up a DVD player, etc.... all basic functions that I either already know or figure out on my own.

Thanks again! "There are others in this thread who have given a lot more detail about what settings change when swapping out the LE" That is what I have been searching for but with over 300pages of post to read through I am having a hard time finding that information. I have also read a few other post with basically the same question "What should be done after a LE replacement".

To start, after they replace the LE are all the settings that should be looked at listed in the service manual? Will they need any equipment to "properly" adjust any of the settings?

I do not have a service manual yet but will pick one up. It has just been my experience in the past that most service manuals are just barely better then the user manuals, ie they don't really tell you much. I just did not want to spend $30-40 for a manual that tells me how to change the channel, program the remote, hook up a DVD player, etc.... all basic functions that I either already know or figure out on my own.

The service manual is very different than the owners manual. It has many features which will probably prove very useful if you keep the TV for a while and have to do some repair yourself in the future. To answer you question about the Optical Engine for instance, it lists the part to be replaced then it tells you (service person) which items need to be adjusted or at least checked in the Service Menu after the change; ie: Optical Engine, check the following after changing: and it lists Front LCD, Index Delay, Actuator Gain, V-Position, H-Position, CCA, and Tilt Focus. Then it goes into details on how to check and adjust if necessary each of those things. So a service manual is a good thing to have in my opinion.

The service manual is very different than the owners manual. It has many features which will probably prove very useful if you keep the TV for a while and have to do some repair yourself in the future. To answer you question about the Optical Engine for instance, it lists the part to be replaced then it tells you (service person) which items need to be adjusted or at least checked in the Service Menu after the change; ie: Optical Engine, check the following after changing: and it lists Front LCD, Index Delay, Actuator Gain, V-Position, H-Position, CCA, and Tilt Focus. Then it goes into details on how to check and adjust if necessary each of those things. So a service manual is a good thing to have in my opinion.


Thanks!! I actually had talked myself in to one and just ordered it. I think that I will wait until I have exhausted all resources though before I even enter the service mode as I keep reading that this can void the warranty. I am still waiting on the call from my service center to let me know when they will get the new light engine. I just want to be prepared when they replace the light engine incase the picture looks like crap. I doubt I wip out my service manual while they are at the house because from other post it sounds like techs that don't have one (which I have all indications my techs do not) end up using it and adjust all settings to what is printed in the manual and that this is not the correct thing to do.

I have just bought service manuals in the past that were a complete waste of money and were just barely above the user manual level.

The problem that I described in Post #9912, above, involving the death of my HLR5668 after a lamp replacement, was resolved earlier today, but the service technician apparently caused a new one. The tech replaced the ballast, and that brought the TV back to life, sort of. The tech left after seeing that some sort of picture appeared on the screen but before any of the input devices were reconnected. Now, there is a translucent vertical stripe at the right edge of the picture, 2.25" wide at the bottom of the screen and 2.5" wide at the top. When watching fairly well-lit scenes, a picture is visible beneath the dark stripe:

http://img279.imageshack.us/img279/1032/cyn0027avv4.jpg

The stripe appears with all inputs (HD-DVR and DVD player on HDMI 1 & 2, cable card and OTA). After discovering this new problem, I called the service center, which is insisting on sending back the same technician 4 days hence. I've now got calls in to Sammy's second-tier service department looking for a better and prompter resolution.

Manatus - looks like you have verticle side shadow. My HL-R5668W recently developed this same issue except mine is on the left side and starts in the corner and gets larger as it goes down the screen, ending with about 1in shadow at the bottom. My techs came out played with it for a while and then said yep you need a new light engine. I am still waiting to hear from them on getting the part in. I don't have much confidence in them b/c when I asked if any adjustments needed to be made after the LE replacement, they said no. I picked up a service manual last week and it says differently.

By the way what is up with the funky image on the screen (not the dude building the choppers) but that thing in front of him?

The vertical stripe issue has always been on the left side. That is odd, especially getting it after a service call. The LE should not take more than a couple of days to get in and will fix it. I'd stay after them about getting it fixed right away. The issue is we don't know what causes the stripe and if we did we'd know if it was caused by the tech. or not. Its a pain but its easy to fix.

The LE should not take more than a couple of days to get in and will fix it. I'd stay after them about getting it fixed right away.

I am going on 8days now since my techs came out a confirmed that I need a new LE with still no call back from them on when the part will arrive. I did check last Friday, as I was told I would get a call when they ordered the part and had an estimated delivery date, and they said they are still waiting on the part. I guess "a couple of days" depends on where you are and the type of service center you have. I only have 1 in my area and the next closest one is over an hour away. I can honestly say that in my area I have not been pleased with Samsung's service center, notice center not centers since there is only one in my area. My issue started on July9, I first noticed it on the final match of the World Cup. I contacted Samsung that day during the game. I am getting close to 1month now.

I'm not trying to b!@ch but it's annoying when people have come over and I have to explain what that it. Also the first thing they say is well I guess I will not be getting a Samsung.

The vertical stripe issue has always been on the left side.

I know, and that's one reason why I posted the photo. I also thought that the notorious shadow was opaque, and this one isn't.

I know, and that's one reason why I posted the photo. I also thought that the notorious shadow was opaque, and this one isn't.

No, the "notorious" shadow on the left side wasn't opaque. You could still see images through it, they were just darker.

Hi all,
I just recently purchased an hlr5078w. After reading a few pages of this post, I'm really scared and I'm regrettying the huge savings. I have three questions:

1) I will do the majority of my gaming and DVD viewing through Xbox 360. Should I use the Xbox 360 vga cable or any other vga cable? Is there anything more I can do to reduce the lag?

2) Should i turn off DNEi right away? If so, how can I?

3) Any other recommendations or suggestions for this set?

I would appreciate any help, thanks guys!

Hi all,
I just recently purchased an hlr5078w. After reading a few pages of this post, I'm really scared and I'm regrettying the huge savings. I have three questions:

1) I will do the majority of my gaming and DVD viewing through Xbox 360. Should I use the Xbox 360 vga cable or any other vga cable? Is there anything more I can do to reduce the lag?

2) Should i turn off DNEi right away? If so, how can I?

3) Any other recommendations or suggestions for this set?

I would appreciate any help, thanks guys!

Relax and Enjoy the TV, I've had mine for a year and it is fine. I think the fear of DNEi is overblown, leave it alone. Do invest in a VGA cable for the Xbox360, the colors looks great and I experience no lag.

I've asked this over in the Oppo thread and it seems like it's yet to be reviewed: Anyone using the Oppo DV-970HD @ 480i with their HL-R 1080P display (or any 1080P display for that matter)? I am wondering what the quality of the Samsung deinterlacing and scaling is and I can't seem to find out any info regarding this. Any info on the Sammy internals appreciated. FYI, I have the HL-R6168W.

Brax4, you are clearly getting the run around. Worse case is parts are shipped UPS from the coast furthest from you. You should call Samsung and tell them you want second tier CS. You might first call the service center to be sure things aren't moving and even tell them you are now calling Samsung. Its either their fault or not, which one? If it is they'll jump and if it isn't then you'll know you have to take care of it through Samsung. Keep us posted. This is BS and pisses me off.

Manatus - looks like you have verticle side shadow. My HL-R5668W recently developed this same issue except mine is on the left side and starts in the corner and gets larger as it goes down the screen, ending with about 1in shadow at the bottom. My techs came out played with it for a while and then said yep you need a new light engine. I am still waiting to hear from them on getting the part in. I don't have much confidence in them b/c when I asked if any adjustments needed to be made after the LE replacement, they said no. I picked up a service manual last week and it says differently.

By the way what is up with the funky image on the screen (not the dude building the choppers) but that thing in front of him?

I just posted same issue in the other thread, didn't know this was here. Mine is on the left too and its the same as yours. No one's every touched my set before. Got if for free last year in a contest, so no service plan's or what not. How much do they charge you to get it fixed, any idea? I really don't wanna spend a ridiculous amount to fix it.

v0rt3x, that is great that you won it! I think you should go back to the place that gave it to you and find out if they have an extended warranty. These days I've heard of getting extended warranties after they've expired or for people who didn't get them like you. They say you must wait at least thirty days for a repair and say that the product is currently working properly. You might call TVA and see if they will sell you a contract. I've heard the LE out of warranty is like 1/3 the price of the set so I think an extended is worth it if you can get it.

If you can't it seems that there is something blocking the light path causing the shadow in this case. A few people reported it moving and disappearing on its own. No ones found out the cause but it is probably something simple to figure out if your set is out of warranty. That is a something you'd have to decide. I'd try getting a warranty first.

I just posted same issue in the other thread, didn't know this was here. Mine is on the left too and its the same as yours. No one's every touched my set before. Got if for free last year in a contest, so no service plan's or what not. How much do they charge you to get it fixed, any idea? I really don't wanna spend a ridiculous amount to fix it.
You didn't say how much over a year you have had the TV but many times if the problem is a very common one and Samsung knows this one is, you may be able to get it repaired even tho you are slightly out of warranty. It's some kind of "good will" deal many companies have for known defects. Worth a try calling Samsung CS and explaining your situation before buying a warranty.

I just purchased a Samsung HL-S6187W from BestBuy. This is my first DLP, although I have a Dell plasma that works well.

The problem is I see gray translucent "smudge marks" on the inside of the screen all down the middle. They don't move or wipe off. Can this be fixed? Should I just return the set?

I went to the Samsung service website and found the following info that describes my problem, but they say it stopped more than a year ago. Thanks for any help.

---------------------

A small number of Samsung HLP series DLP TVs manufactured on or before February, 2005 are displaying blotches or smudges on the insides of their screens. These blotches or smudges are caused by the bending movement of the Fresnel screen, a screen set directly behind the screen you view, which is called the Lenticular screen. The distortions in the Fresnel screen are caused by changes in the temperature of the Fresnel screen that occur as the TV heats up during the operation. The blotches or smudges are most noticeable on lighter backgrounds.

If your HLP series DLP TV with a manufacturing date on or before February, 2005 displays these blotches or smudges, please call Samsung Customer Care at 1-800-Samsung (1-800-726-7864) to arrange for a service appointment. Have the model number and serial number of your TV on hand when you call.

You didn't say how much over a year you have had the TV but many times if the problem is a very common one and Samsung knows this one is, you may be able to get it repaired even tho you are slightly out of warranty. It's some kind of "good will" deal many companies have for known defects. Worth a try calling Samsung CS and explaining your situation before buying a warranty.

I got it last october, its only been like 9 months i believe. I checked the website and the warranty is for a year, so i called samsung and now they are gonna send someone to my house to see what the problem is. Well hopefully everything should work out good, i'll keep everyone updated.

I just purchased a Samsung HL-S6187W from BestBuy. This is my first DLP, although I have a Dell plasma that works well.

The problem is I see gray translucent "smudge marks" on the inside of the screen all down the middle. They don't move or wipe off. Can this be fixed? Should I just return the set?

I went to the Samsung service website and found the following info that describes my problem, but they say it stopped more than a year ago. Thanks for any help.

---------------------

A small number of Samsung HLP series DLP TVs manufactured on or before February, 2005 are displaying blotches or smudges on the insides of their screens. These blotches or smudges are caused by the bending movement of the Fresnel screen, a screen set directly behind the screen you view, which is called the Lenticular screen. The distortions in the Fresnel screen are caused by changes in the temperature of the Fresnel screen that occur as the TV heats up during the operation. The blotches or smudges are most noticeable on lighter backgrounds.

If your HLP series DLP TV with a manufacturing date on or before February, 2005 displays these blotches or smudges, please call Samsung Customer Care at 1-800-Samsung (1-800-726-7864) to arrange for a service appointment. Have the model number and serial number of your TV on hand when you call.
If you'll check on the main page there is a huge HLS thread and your problem is everywhere and they replace the screen. But check that thread, this is HLR and we missed the smudges.

Just call Best Buy. They are very good at service and will have your problem fixed quickly.

Anything under warranty goes through Samsung, not the store. If its an extended warranty then it goes through them, whoever that is.

These sets did have the smudge issue but that was early on like was posted. I didn't see a specific date before so that's good to know.

Make sure no one takes your set out of your house. You might explain everything before they arrive or when they walk in. You can check around here for more details on what to watch out for with a service call.

Hey all, it's been a while. Hope everyone's been managing to stay cool! :)

Well, put me down for the double-whammy on the transluscent shadow problem that requires an LE replacement: My set has the one we've grown familiar with on the left, but it also has a second one on the right that's much more, shall I say, askew.

It's an HL-R5078 that I purchased from TVA in mid-July 2005. Roughly 2,500 hours on it.

This shadows just popped up out of thin air last Sunday; just turned on the set ... and hello service call! The one on the right looks like somebody kicked the thing.

Called Samsung Monday evening, and so far it's been a positive experience. CSR asked if I'd tried resetting it, to which I answered, "No, it's quite clearly a in the light path (directly or indirectly, I donn't know) because the digital image is showing up just as clearly and perfectly as before; the light simply suddenly stopped reaching the screen in those areas." She instantly says, "OK, we'll get you set up for a service call." Two minutes later she tells me to expect a call from a technician from a local company within 48 hours.

I get a call the next morning from the technician at 8:30am and he says he can be over between 12:30 and 2:30 that afternoon. Sweet! The guy gets there and he's very nice. The first thing he asks when he walks in the door is, "So have you been in the service menu?"

(Ahem). I reply, "Of course not, that can be some dangerous stuff," to which he replies, "Good answer! You don't want to void your warranty..." (I had no interest in a debate about the legally enforceable aspects of the topic; I simply want my set fixed properly). I mentioned that I've learned a bit about them here and elsewhere, but that's it.

Anyhow, he immediately seemed pretty surprised at the shadow on the top right, saying that he'd seen the shadows before but not quite this bad. He had me unplug it, then plug it back in after a minute, then goes into the SM and fiddles around with the Index Delay, tries flipping the picture vertically, etc. The shadows are, of course, unaffected, so he quickly says he'll order a new light engne. He asked about the purchase date, and I gave him a copy of my TVA e-mail invoice for his records, and pointed out that Samsung had extended my 12-month warranty to 15 months just for registering it ... so it's still covered.

He left saying that Samsung's been quite good about sending out the LE's quickly, and that he'd probably be calling again in 2-3 business days (Monday will be the third business day). Great response so far! My only reservation about this tech so far is that he initially thought my HLR was an HLP, yet later claimed he had worked on about 150 HLR's thus far. I'll just chalk that up to not paying much attention to the cabinet design and give him the benefit of the doubt.

So the (hopefully) final quick hurdle is to have him do the new LE install. Thanks to donb1948, Pumbaa 56 and jameskollar for their recent posts detailing the SM adjustments that need to be made after an LE install and outlining the basic relationship between the LE and digital board. Very helpful, much appreciated!

Based upon your learnings, I'm pulling together a concise set of notes to help me work with my tech to make sure that the CCA transfer is done properly (read: in the proper direction!), as well as the other SM adjustments.

I'll let you know how it goes! (fingers crossed) :)

Calbert, sounds great. I wonder if the tech. might know the cause? We never got a definite on it. Just the other day someone got one on the right side only. I don't understand what causes it or why now its on the right side too after how many sets? I beat you though with the service call. True, my tech. was here the next day, but with the LE. You'd think by now they know to bring the LE and not make two calls.

Calbert, it sounds like you are a detail type guy. Since I will be calling Samsung soon for the shadow/strip on the lower left side or my 5078, any observations, do's/don'ts, etc. will be greatly appreciated. I have transcribed the SM settings that Eliab did when he finished calibrating my set back in December, so I'll discuss these with him once the repair is complete.

Hopefully the Dallas market is big enough that they will have seen lots of this problem before servicing mine.

I don't understand what causes it or why now its on the right side too after how many sets?

I'm going to have my camera out and will ask him to set both LEs side-by-side so I can take some closeups ... hopefully he will continue to be nice and help me out, so we'll see. I thought someon else here reported that Samsung was no longer using "tape" on part of the LE, so I'd love to document that first-hand if that's the case.

Calbert, it sounds like you are a detail type guy.

:D Detail guy, yes. Expert, no way. I'm simply learning by sharing with all of you here and remaining very careful. Many here are engineers and technically savvy, but I'm not one of them -- but I do like hangin' with them!

Since I will be calling Samsung soon for the shadow/strip on the lower left side or my 5078, any observations, do's/don'ts, etc. will be greatly appreciated. I have transcribed the SM settings that Eliab did when he finished calibrating my set back in December, so I'll discuss these with him once the repair is complete.

I'll glady share whatever I can learn. Hopefully it's a positive experience!

Just be careful and sensitive to how you broach the SM/calibration subject -- you never quite know what kind of tech you'll get. I was caught off guard by how quickly my tech asked about it, while others will hardly pay attention.

The way I look at it, I don't want to insult my tech by appearing to claim more knowledge of the SM than he might have (which hopefully isn't the case, right?), but at the same time I want to make sure he knows that I need the SM adjustments be done correctly for me -- since I should not go into the SM without "voiding my warranty." I'll also couch the reason for my detailed research and interest in the SM as a plan for ensuring that my $3K+ investment is taken care of properly by other extended warranty techs in the future -- since my warranty is up in two months and I will likely not have the luxury of working with him again after that point.

I think I have a reasonable position and I plan on remaining very friendly and collaborative. He did seem like a reasonable guy, so we'll see.

By the way, my wife and I were just laughing, because from the bedroom I hear her call out, "Honey, what are you doing in there? Get out already?" I didn't realize she was talking to the cat that had snuck into a dresser drawer, not me, until I was like, "What the hell? I didn't know my AVS time was bugging you that much!" ;)

Have a good one.

Calbert, sounds great. I wonder if the tech. might know the cause? We never got a definite on it. Just the other day someone got one on the right side only. I don't understand what causes it or why now its on the right side too after how many sets?

I'm the right-side stripe someone. The local service guy selected by Samsung returned to my place 3 days ago to look at the stripe. He told me that he'd worked on lots of the HLRs and had never seen anything like it-- on the right- or left-side. The next step will be replacing the LE, and that will require another 10 days-2 weeks.

Calbert and others, there is a definite strategy I like to call it for lack of a better word. No one should ever act as though they know more than the tech. until the tech. shows you that they don't. lol. In Calbert's case, which is why I mentioned him, he was clearly taken off guard. The tech. might have known Calbert or others here have played with the SM. I don't think a tech. mentions the SM like the weather. Maybe Calbert left the S manual on the coffee table or something? lol.

You should mention your concerns after the tech. is finished if you don't think it was a thorough job. Wait for the tech. to check the SM and at that time mention it if something was missed.

I have a bad tendency of telling people what they need to do. The furnace, the car, the computer, my camcorder, gee that's a lot off the top of my head. lol. I guess I did for the LE too but that was over the phone. I guess it saved us both time since they brought the LE with them. Don't piss anyone off the way I normally do by questioning their skill level and expertise.

I only say this because there have been a couple of people who had tech.s check the SM for changes from default so that they can void the warranty. Others have asked about the SM like in Calberts case. They must have been sent a memo from Samsung about it. I don't think its right but it just makes a huge headache of having to contact Samsung and explain it. If you sound too knowledgeable it could mean you've messed with the SM.

There were a few people who have been screwed by incompetence or untrained techs. here and that's not right either. Its not right that several people had their sets removed or the screen taken apart. Bottom line is to let them know you know you need a LE and leave it at that. Go from there if you think they missed something. Be sure to put all the changes in the SM you made back, that is a biggie. Some have questioned a professional calibration even. My tech. was extremely knowledgeable, even knew about the latest in computers and video editing. She, yes she didn't understand the point of a professional calibration since it changes with a LE. I was a little disappointed with her feeling since I was so impressed but I can see what she means. I still plan on getting the Velux before a calibration though. I'm also waiting for a HD/BR DVD player.

I hope I helped someone more than babbled but I wonder? lol.

No confusion bcvp. FWIW, this tech simply mentioned the SM out of thin air. I don't even have a Service Manual to leave on the coffee table, and I gave no indication before then that I knew anything about it. There was nothing to make him think I'd been in the SM, he just asked about it, before he had even made it over to the tv ... seemed to me it was his standard policy to ask.

I only mentioned it so that those who have been in the SM are aware that they may be asked about it up front even if there's no obvious reason to ask. I'm far less worried about that stuff and just want to make sure the repair is done properly (hoping the new LE is in great shape!).

It does make sense that it's probably just better to let him do his thing before I question anything. He deserves the benefit of the doubt anyway. :)

I don't think there were more than three people, including myself who had a defective new LE. I have yet to get another one since I only have the blotches in dark scenes, sometimes. I've only seen it a couple of times, enough to know there is something wrong but not enough to run out and get another LE. I figure I'll wait and see if there are more problems.

Alright update time!

Called samsung, they will repair it. Got a call from the tech yesterday, believe his name was jonathan (is he on here?). He seemed to know the exact issue without me having to explain it to him and is going to order the part and setup appt for someone to come out and replace it. So all in all very good so far!

I have the Samsung HLR-5668w and in setup/picture there is an option for "Film Mode" which is disabled and grayed out, how do I enable that function? Since it's grayed out I can't even select it wtf.

Also I haven't been following this thread in a long time. I was wondering if there ever was a firmware update for the HLR series to allow one to disable the DNR?

I have the Samsung HLR-5668w and in setup/picture there is an option for "Film Mode" which is disabled and grayed out, how do I enable that function? Since it's grayed out I can't even select it wtf.
Film Mode is only available with a 480i signal.

Also I haven't been following this thread in a long time. I was wondering if there ever was a firmware update for the HLR series to allow one to disable the DNR?
Nope, no firmware updates confirmed as yet. Just faint hope and some speculation. ;)

Tick tock, tick tock,…. over 2weeks now since the service techs told me I needed a new LE and they still have not received the part in. I called Samsung today and they have "escalated" my issue and said that if a replacement part is not available or if it is on back order for an extended period of time they send out replacement units. I suspect a new LE will be located before a replacement unit is sent.

After several months of flawless performance, I'm rapidly joining the ranks unhappy with my Sammy 5078. As previously posted, it developed the dreaded shadow on the left side, starting mid height to about an inch or so wide at the bottom of the screen.

Samsung rather quickly sent out a tech with a new light engine (something tells me it was rebuilt- but I don't know for sure). The tech installed the engine made some adjustments and life was once again good!

Two hours later it started flickering a bit, then kind of a strobe effect, and now it's not only flickering but while the right half of the picture appears normal (except for the flickering) the left half is darker with distored color bands across it. And btw, it's the same across all inputs, HDMI1/2, Component, and SVideo.

So now I wait for a few days with an unwatchable $3000 tv.

Brax4, as you can see that is bull. You can thank the Internet for that. I'd stay on them, Samsung. Maybe like I said it depends where you are afa a local warehouse or how long it takes to ship? The other thing is the tech. isn't waiting for your part. They are happy to skip over you. I'd check with them to be sure the LE hasn't arrived yet. I've seen that before. "Oh yeah that just arrived a minute ago and I was gonna call ya."

Rrldtx, I think the tech. should make a bee line back to be sure they know what part it is. I think its only one of two? I wonder if its possible something is loose? Its a little coincidental. I think most here think the LEs are rebuilt. They're too expensive and the components look like they are very easy to replace.

Brax4, as you can see that is bull. You can thank the Internet for that. I'd stay on them, Samsung. Maybe like I said it depends where you are afa a local warehouse or how long it takes to ship? The other thing is the tech. isn't waiting for your part. They are happy to skip over you. I'd check with them to be sure the LE hasn't arrived yet. I've seen that before. "Oh yeah that just arrived a minute ago and I was gonna call ya."

bcvp - yea I kind of think it's part bull myself. It all started when it took them 2weeks after they had my trouble ticket from Samsung to even setup a visit (granted the tech was on vacation for a week). I was told they would call me after they ordered the part to let me know when they would get it in and they did not. A couple of days after the visit I called and they said oh yea we ordered it and it should be in in a couple of days. Seems like if it was backordered they would have found out then. I asked if it was backorded and they said they did not think so. Also they said that if for some reason it was back ordered they would call me and let me know, that never happened either.

Samsung said that it would be 24-48hrs before I hear from them. They will get a call 48hrs01minutes from then. Tick tock, tick tock,.... I would love a replacement unit, that would be sweat. Tomorrow will make 1month since I reported it. I've already asked Samsung for another service center, it's an hour a way.

Add me to the list of people needing a new LE due to a shadow on the left hand side. It's about 1/2 inch at the widest. I really didn't notice it until tonight. Kinda creeps up on you. Good thing I caught it before it got really bad. Also, I have a calibration coming up with Eliab (http://www.avical.com) later this month. It was for a recalibration but now it looks like it is going to be a full blown calibration. Recalibrations are cheaper. Think I should let him know? :D

Eliab, you don't read these forums do you? You do! :eek: Darn.