A Light Engine replacement requires that you copy data from the LE to the digital board. DMD>Digital in the service menu. Otherwise your color space will be off. Glad to hear it works though. You can do that yourself.

Even so I signed up for Avical's ISF calibration Texas tour next month. I don't see how the picture can get any better.
.

Halco,

You are in for a pleasant surprise. I've had my set calibrated twice by Avical (Thanks Eliab), once when the set was a couple of months old and then again after I had the Digital Board and LE replaced due to failures.

Once you see your new picture you'll never want to go back! Calibration is a HUGE imporvement over what is already a very good picture. One point, make sure you have at least 100 hours on the bulb before calibration. They tend to dim quite a bit in the first 100 hours so calibration needs to occur after this happens.

A Light Engine replacement requires that you copy data from the LE to the digital board. DMD>Digital in the service menu. Otherwise your color space will be off. Glad to hear it works though. You can do that yourself.
Thanks Halco. I accomplished the DMD>Digital in the service menu this morning. It is amazing how little some techs know about such. I am considering a calibration in the near future. :)

HELP! I just turned on my SLR6168. A loud grinding noise came on and the picture flickers! I called for Samsung service (waiting for a return call to schedule). Has anyone experienced this?

Thank you, very much, in advance.

WELL! This may sound crazy, but...I had a pile of magazines and other stuff in the way of the remote's sending it's signal to the tv...I think (he said!) that there was some sort of interference from the obstruction which did some thing to the signal itself resulting in the grinding noise and picture flicker! (O.K. doctor, I'm ready for my close-up).

The set runs fine upon turn-on. I'll try it several times more before cancelling the service call.

Ed, ? lol.

Eliab, I have a 3 inch shadow on the far left of the screen from the top all the way to the bottom. The tv is a Samsung HLR5678W. Is this an LE problem or calibration?

lderry82, that is the vertical stripe/shadow issue and needs a replacement LE. If you already had it calibrated you'd need it again after the LE.

has anyone here upgraded their 68 series to a newer model samsung? improved picture?

I still would like to know if a remote control can be affected by some sort of obstacle, such as a pile of magazines, resulting in a distorted message being sent to the set? The grinding noise and picture flicker that happened was a shock and I have not read anyone having this sort of problem.

I moved the obstruction and have tried to turn the set on several times as a test with negative results. It works fine. Samsung service did not feel that the obstacle could produce such a distorted result but...I'm not sure of this.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks, in advance.

HELP! I just turned on my SLR6168. A loud grinding noise came on and the picture flickers! I called for Samsung service (waiting for a return call to schedule). Has anyone experienced this?

Thank you, very much, in advance.

Interesting. I wonder if your color wheel is begining to be unhappy. It's about the only thing I can think of that could make the sound you describe and also affect the picture. The timing with the remote may just be a coincidence.

I still would like to know if a remote control can be affected by some sort of obstacle, such as a pile of magazines, resulting in a distorted message being sent to the set? The grinding noise and picture flicker that happened was a shock and I have not read anyone having this sort of problem.

I moved the obstruction and have tried to turn the set on several times as a test with negative results. It works fine. Samsung service did not feel that the obstacle could produce such a distorted result but...I'm not sure of this.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks, in advance.

The remote transmits an encoded signal that is decoded by the set for each specific function. If any part of the encoded signal is not received by the set, the set will not respond for that function. In other words the set can not *partially respond* to a incomplete command.

[Edit]
I go along with the color wheel acting up more than anything else.

I still would like to know if a remote control can be affected by some sort of obstacle, such as a pile of magazines, resulting in a distorted message being sent to the set? The grinding noise and picture flicker that happened was a shock and I have not read anyone having this sort of problem.

I moved the obstruction and have tried to turn the set on several times as a test with negative results. It works fine. Samsung service did not feel that the obstacle could produce such a distorted result but...I'm not sure of this.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks, in advance.
Ed, perhaps you had a bug (insect) sitting on the edge of the color wheel, and it is now plastered onto the housing wall! Hence your wheel is now back in balance. LOL

I hope it was that simple. :)

Sorry I wasn't more helpful Ed. I guess I found it more absurd than anything. You definitely need to have a service call regardless, at some point. I'd say its the color wheel otherwise its the fan. I don't know how long service calls are covered? I mean anything under warranty is covered but what if your service contract ends in six months. Are calls covered for a year, ninety days or what?

bcvp,

First, thanks to all. RE: the service coverage...I renewed the Samsung service contract for an additional year so I'm covered to 08/07.

(Here's an interesting thing about Samsung's warranty: the origional one-year coverage will be extended by Samsung for an additional three months if something goes awry during that three-month period. However, this is just a "gift" on their part. If you renew the origional contract for an additional one/three-year period, the effective date of the renewal is the termination date of the origional coverage. I purchased the additional year last month but the effective date is 08/06. If the 3-month extension was a "gift" on their part, then I don't understand why they would honor a warranty extension when the origional expired 08/06.).

Ed, I was going to add it might be a power issue and then I was thinking about the remote. Any chance the power cycled from the remote off and on?

bcvp,

The whole experience seems crazy to me. I'd like to think that it was just a momentary "mistake" on the set's part which corrected itself after the occurance.

I don't have an answer to your question but, remembering the event, I was using not only the Samsung remote but the DISH remote at the same time.

Well, it's been two days now and no sign of the monster's ugly head reappearing (I better not speak to loud in case it's listening).

Until next time!

Ed, that is really weird. I hope there isn't a next time. lol.

bcvp,

Thanks.

hello

i have come across this shadow issue and was wondering if this needs the be fixed? what i mean is, i have noticed the shadowed area on the left siide of my screen, but it wasn't bothersome, so i didn't worry about it. i have read on here that it is a common problem.

my question is, do i need to have this fixed? will it get worse over time if i do not get it repaired? i've heard that picture quality improved also with a replaced LE.

hello

i have come across this shadow issue and was wondering if this needs the be fixed? what i mean is, i have noticed the shadowed area on the left siide of my screen, but it wasn't bothersome, so i didn't worry about it. i have read on here that it is a common problem.

my question is, do i need to have this fixed? will it get worse over time if i do not get it repaired? i've heard that picture quality improved also with a replaced LE.

I would strongly recommend that you get it fixed, while the TV is under warrantee. I
had the stripe and watched it grow to about 6 inches wide over a period of a few weeks. Since a new light engine is fairly expensive, I wouldn’t put off fixing it.
Don’t expect to see any improvement in picture quality after replacement. It’s possible but not common.
Good luck,

I second the suggestion to repair it. I had the same troube with mine except my shadow was kinda of a blue / purple color along the left edge. It appeared about 6 months after I bought the set. Had the light engine swapped out under warrrenty and everthying is fine. :)

I also have a shadow that appeared on the bottom right corner of my hl-r6168w set about 6months after i bought it... I called samsung last tuesday, and a repair person from a local place came and replaced the light engine today in about 30 minutes. He told me the problem would probably get worse, and that he has only seen a few with this problem... it should not happen again with the new light engine. Just wanted to add to the info on here already. Love my tv.

I just got off the phone with Samsung regarding this issue. In a way I am glad to see that it is somewhat common. I have the HLR5668 and I have about a 2-3" "shadow" along the left hand side of the screen. The Samsung Tech told me to "reset" the TV before they would setup a actual service call. If this is as common as I see here I wonder why they bothered to have me "reset" the TV?

Was there ever a post on how to access the Service menu? I had an older SammDLP model HLN that you could access, but I don't have the remote code to enter to try the old one. Does anyone know the Service Menu access code?
Was one ever posted? for he newer 1080p models?

Thanks,
-Steve

I just got off the phone with Samsung regarding this issue. In a way I am glad to see that it is somewhat common. I have the HLR5668 and I have about a 2-3" "shadow" along the left hand side of the screen. The Samsung Tech told me to "reset" the TV before they would setup a actual service call. If this is as common as I see here I wonder why they bothered to have me "reset" the TV?

Was there ever a post on how to access the Service menu? I had an older SammDLP model HLN that you could access, but I don't have the remote code to enter to try the old one. Does anyone know the Service Menu access code?
Was one ever posted? for he newer 1080p models?

Thanks,
-Steve

Steve,
Dont touch that SM. Don't do a reset, you will mess up your TV. The colors will be off. I am on another forum where they said the factory reset is not good to do. I think you need a new LE.

Mute 1-8-2 Power with the set off will only get you into the service menu.

If you want to know the firmware version hit: Mute 1-8-4 Exit, quickly with the power on. The screen will flash "Not Available" and then show the diagnostic screen.
I hope this helps.
Chris

Smfrazz, entering the SM and changing settings can make your set unwatchable and void your warranty unless you know what you are doing and have recorded any changes you have made. You can do a search on the top right of this page for SM or service menu. There are a hundred pages on it. lol. Most people at Samsung are not familiar with the set. Resetting it has nothing to do with any of the issues people here have had. Make sure the tech. brings a LE with them when you get the service call.

....The Samsung Tech told me to "reset" the TV before they would setup a actual service call.
Thanks,
-Steve

The reset they are referring to is simply unplugging the TV and then press and hold the power button for ten seconds. Then plug the TV back in and power it up again. Thats it.

I know this question has prolly been answered, but I can't find it. I find that the OPPO DVD player audio delay of 100ms is just about perfect for my taste. The macroblocking is intolerable though. I'm upgrading to HD-DVD and the Toshiba player doesn't offer any audio delay. I'm not interested in the Felston thingie. I need an a/v receiver that will delay the audio thru HDMI and not mess with the 1080i HDMI signal coming into it.

I'm looking at the Yamaha RX-V1600, but alot of the things it's saying is greek (geek) to me. I can't afford the latest greatest and I'm not typically a new adopter (except for the Sammy I bought late last year). My current receiver is 8 years old, so it's time to catch up to the 21st century.

Any help you folks would provide would be appreciated!

Tyrod, are you saying that with an HD-DVD movie that there is still a delay? I guess I thought it would be less or not at all since there is little to no scaling. You should look elsewhere if you are simply looking for an AVR recommendation.

Tyrod, are you saying that with an HD-DVD movie that there is still a delay? I guess I thought it would be less or not at all since there is little to no scaling. You should look elsewhere if you are simply looking for an AVR recommendation.

Truthfully, I don't know. I don't actually have the HD-DVD on hand, it's on order. But it's still gotta deinterlace. I had the OPPO set up to upscale to 1080i before it went to the TV and I got audio sync problems. Besides, my other source, the DirecTivo occasionally has some delay. Not as bad as the OPPO but it's still there. The only place I don't get audio sync problems is through my HTPC which I watch OTA HD via VGA and digital optical to my receiver.

The folks over at the a/v receiver section don't like to answer these kind of questions.

Tyrod, are you saying that with an HD-DVD movie that there is still a delay? I guess I thought it would be less or not at all since there is little to no scaling. You should look elsewhere if you are simply looking for an AVR recommendation.

I don’t believe it matters what you feed the HLR series. You will always get a 100+ sec. video delay if you feed the audio to a receiver, bypassing the TV. HD DVD will only feed 720P or 1080i and Blu-Ray will have 1080P. Most of us are already getting 720P and 1080i and the TV won’t accept 1080P. I personally would not have kept the TV if it weren’t for having a Felston unit. I leave the Felston at about 110 ms. for all inputs except VGA. My Felston has been turned off accidentally a couple times and both my wife and I have noticed the poor lip sync immediately. If I didn’t have the Felston I would definitely have a receiver with at least 100 ms. of audio delay capability.

I don’t believe it matters what you feed the HLR series. You will always get a 100+ sec. video delay if you feed the audio to a receiver, bypassing the TV. HD DVD will only feed 720P or 1080i and Blu-Ray will have 1080P. Most of us are already getting 720P and 1080i and the TV won’t accept 1080P. I personally would not have kept the TV if it weren’t for having a Felston unit. I leave the Felston at about 110 ms. for all inputs except VGA. My Felston has been turned off accidentally a couple times and both my wife and I have noticed the poor lip sync immediately. If I didn’t have the Felston I would definitely have a receiver with at least 100 ms. of audio delay capability.

Correct about the delay. I have a Toshiba A1 HD DVD player and I absolutely must have some delay.

BTW: The Yamaha RX-V1600 seems like a good pick. The Toshiba A1 player offers TRUE HD sound (with the 2.0 upgrade) which requires either an HDMI input or analog discretes. The Yamaha has both type of inputs and the analog inputs may come in handy if you decide to use component instead of HDMI. Some have reported that TRUE HD sound is far superior to standard bitstream (DD5.1, DTS. etc).

This is a failure of the dlp chip I had the same problem , area kept growing day by day , under warranty they replaced the entire dlp engine

Ok, so you guys are saying I'm looking for an AVR with 100+ delay on multi inputs, with True HD sound and Sirius, with wireless surround sound speakers. Do I have that right? lol. Let me know if you see that puppy.

Ok, so you guys are saying I'm looking for an AVR with 100+ delay on multi inputs, with True HD sound and Sirius, with wireless surround sound speakers. Do I have that right? lol. Let me know if you see that puppy.

Almost, forget the wireless. Hardwired only.

Note: Take a look at the Denon line.

Will the new game consoles carry True HD Sound? Are there any STBs that will have it? I've been waiting to get an AVR until a new format was out. Is that 6.1 or 7.1 or something?

Thanks James

With the new blue rays coming out and knowing that the only input that accepts 1080p is the 15pin computer hook up, is there any way (with adapters and such) to get the true 1080p into the computer input on the back of the samsung hlr5668w?

Also, (BCVP) and anybody else, where di you here that there was a dvd player coming out that will play both hd formats?

I don't think so BCVP. I saw the poster in CC today and it said in 5.1>>>>I was planning on using the PS3 for my blue ray player but I doubt that it will include the processor for the DTS/DD version of high def audio.

I don't think so BCVP. I saw the poster in CC today and it said in 5.1>>>>I was planning on using the PS3 for my blue ray player but I doubt that it will include the processor for the DTS/DD version of high def audio.


I am not sure that is correct. You should be able to get DTS over SPDIF. Furthermore, I believe you'll be able to get TRUE HD over HDMI with an A/V receiver that can handle the decoding. The one thing you won't get vs the Toshiba HD DVD player is analog outputs of the TRUE HD signal.

I'm kinda new to this, didn't even know TRUE HD existed until just recently. You'll want to confirm this for yourself if you're planning on getting a PS3.

BTW: The Toshiba analog outs are 6.1.

I don't have names or models but there are at least two people working on a combo player. Also China is working on it as well as a new format to make things worse. lol. I'd still hold off buying anything since the dust hasn't settled yet. Last I heard HD was far ahead of BR. If I had to pick one it would be HD.

With the new blue rays coming out and knowing that the only input that accepts 1080p is the 15pin computer hook up, is there any way (with adapters and such) to get the true 1080p into the computer input on the back of the samsung hlr5668w?

Also, (BCVP) and anybody else, where di you here that there was a dvd player coming out that will play both hd formats?

Of course, you could use an HTPC and this:


http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_getoffers.php?keyword=Panasonic%20SW5582&search=SW-5582

Tyrod, the HTPC option is not really an option right now. I would not recommend any HD/BR burners right now for your HTPC. There are a lot of problems with the BR ones and the HDs are not out yet afaik.

The main issue with them in an HTPC is the HDCP issue, which still has not been resolved. Last I heard everything is being reconsidered for the Vista release. In other words don't do anything until Vista is out and you buy the right Vista version. Then you have to see what software will be available to play an HD movie. On top of all of that, if that wasn't bad enough your HTPC must have an Intel chip inside an OEM like an HP or Dell or the video card if you built the HTPC yourself.

Has anyone else tried to use an external video processor (not an HTPC) to push a 1080p signal to an HL-R display via the VGA port? I can get a really good picture using a custom resolution but I can not get the picture to fill the screen horizontally. I know the PC folks can over come this using software and a "resolution within a resolution" approach. Can this be done by adjusting the various "porches" available when setting up a custom resolution on a video processor? I have been stymied in my attempts.

Tyrod, the HTPC option is not really an option right now. I would not recommend any HD/BR burners right now for your HTPC. There are a lot of problems with the BR ones and the HDs are not out yet afaik.

The main issue with them in an HTPC is the HDCP issue, which still has not been resolved. Last I heard everything is being reconsidered for the Vista release. In other words don't do anything until Vista is out and you buy the right Vista version. Then you have to see what software will be available to play an HD movie. On top of all of that, if that wasn't bad enough your HTPC must have an Intel chip inside an OEM like an HP or Dell or the video card if you built the HTPC yourself.

I have a HD-DVD and really wasn't planning on getting one of the BR burners for my HTPC. However, I was under the impression ( I don't do impressions and don't call me Shirley) that HDCP was only a consideration for HDMI. I'm outputting OTA HD & SD-DVD through my HTPC VGA port quite successfully, but that's only 1080i. I figured that the native resolution of 1080P of BR and the VGA port was a natural, I didn't realize HDCP would be an issue.

Tyrod, Shirley you're joking. lol. I didn't think an HTPC could receive an HDTV 1080 signal? How?

HD movies on DVD will have the HDCP issue. I guess HD STBs or OTA HD don't have HDCP.

Using a BR burner is a good point and a good idea if it works but it won't work that way right now.

You have another good point about the HDMI. My understanding has always been since this started recently, is that the DVD, the player, the DVD playing software, the OS and the Intel chip need to be present. I didn't hear anything about the output? I have HD component out on my HTPC. Actually I have two cards with component. Do you know how many people right now have HDMI on their HTPC? No one. lol. What about notebooks?

Ok, I thought about this some more before posting, something I try to do here. lol. Since no one has the HDCP chip in their HTPC right now, they will need to get it. The only two ways to get it is with a new video card, one that isn't out yet last time I checked or a new OEM PC like an HP or Dell, like I mentioned. The OEM PCs or the video card must state they have the Intel HDCP chip in them. Does that mean that the new PCs and the new video cards will only be HDMI? That would be big.

[Ok, see I got ahead of myself. No one has HDMI computer monitors either. Some have component with DVI.]

Tyrod, Shirley you're joking. lol. I didn't think an HTPC could receive an HDTV 1080 signal? How?

HD movies on DVD will have the HDCP issue. I guess HD STBs or OTA HD don't have HDCP.

Using a BR burner is a good point and a good idea if it works but it won't work that way right now.

You have another good point about the HDMI. My understanding has always been since this started recently, is that the DVD, the player, the DVD playing software, the OS and the Intel chip need to be present. I didn't hear anything about the output? I have HD component out on my HTPC. Actually I have two cards with component. Do you know how many people right now have HDMI on their HTPC? No one. lol. What about notebooks?

Ok, I thought about this some more before posting, something I try to do here. lol. Since no one has the HDCP chip in their HTPC right now, they will need to get it. The only two ways to get it is with a new video card, one that isn't out yet last time I checked or a new OEM PC like an HP or Dell, like I mentioned. The OEM PCs or the video card must state they have the Intel HDCP chip in them. Does that mean that the new PCs and the new video cards will only be HDMI? That would be big.

[Ok, see I got ahead of myself. No one has HDMI computer monitors either. Some have component with DVI.]

I receive HDTV content on my PC with a Dvico HDTV PCI receiver. It'll do OTA SD & HD and some cable SD & HD stuff.

I'm certainly no expert on HDCP, but I do know something about computers. The standard VGA port is bi-directional. If the HD player (HD-DVD or BluRay) has the HDCP chip in it, theoretically, the handshaking could take place. However, the output of the VGA port and the VGA input to the TV (or computer monitor) don't give two hoots in hell about HDCP. So the handshaking only really needs to be done between the VGA card and the player assuming the player needs to be handshook. Of course, all that would defeat the purpose of HDCP so I guess at least the SONY burner would require handshaking to the display. I'm certainly not going to be the first on my block to buy one of these burners to test it.

I know there are very expensive HDMI video cards out there and they have issues with HDCP. ATI has been advertising video cards that are HDCP ready for years, although I don't believe they've implemented HDCP on any of their cards yet, leaving that to 3rd parties.

As I said, I'm not going to buy one, but I'll do more research.

Looks like it can't be done. Almost, but not quite. Everything exists to do the HDCP out of an HTPC, but it has to be done by DVI. Presumably, an adaptor to HDMI could be done but that still don't get it to the VGA port.

Tyrod, I think you're right. I hope we can go DVI to VGA. Keep in mind the HDCP issue is to prevent connecting a component to record the content. Displaying it is not the issue.

You're right they have said video cards are HDCP ready, just like they've said for years TVs were HDTV ready. We know that's not the case for both. It must have this Intel chip no matter what it says on the specs or the box or the ads.

I know there are some, probably very few HDMI video cards out there but even they don't have the chip.

I'm not sure how HDMI is going to work for HTPCs since I still don't understand how the audio is going to work? I haven't been following that. lol.

Looks like it can't be done. Almost, but not quite. Everything exists to do the HDCP out of an HTPC, but it has to be done by DVI. Presumably, an adaptor to HDMI could be done but that still don't get it to the VGA port.

How can I get a 1080p signal from my sony blue ray player to the vga port of my tv? Can i daisy chain adpters: TV's vga--> dvi--> hdmi's blue ray????

Shack169, for reasons just mentioned above it can't be done. lol.

How can I get a 1080p signal from my sony blue ray player to the vga port of my tv? Can i daisy chain adpters: TV's vga--> dvi--> hdmi's blue ray????
Just use HDMI at 1080i. I know with the HD DVD player 1080i into my Samsung looks spectacular. I've only seen 10 movies on BD on my set and that was back in June/July so I don't know personally how well that has improved but by what I've read the recent releases should look spectacular also on these sets.

Avical is coming next month to calibrate my 6768. Can't wait.
But, I have a question. I'm running DirecTV and DVD thru the hdmi inputs on my new Yamaha RX-V2700. Will there be a problem calibrating the HDMI input on the 6768 for both DirecTV and DVD on the same input? Also, what about calibration when I add an HD-DVD player later?

Hi All,

Just purchased a 6188 at my local magnolia. They came down on the price pretty easily without much haggling. THe price they gave me was comparable to the 6187 sale price at CC.

Then, last night I went to another Magnolia in my area, and they quoted me a price 10% lower than the other magnolia.


Any ideas why this may be? Seems like they're trying to push theire inventory, maybe new models on the horizion?

PM me if your interested in the actual prices.

-Bill

I have not attempted to defame this product. You and I must have 2 very different ideas as to what defame is. I have never heard of a customer complaining about features or lack of features as defaming. As I said in a previous post I am very pleased with the picture quality. What information did I post that is false? Are you telling me that you have this model and it will do cc or dd through hdmi or component? If so, then please tell me how you did it because according to Samsung's tech support this model only supports dd and cc decoding using the coax input.


I am a deaf individual and I purchased a different Samsung TV (3082WH) and spent a week testing it and found that it doesnt do component CC nor HDMI CC... it is a fault of the TV itself, not the devices hooked up or setups, really, because the Samsung DVD player I purchased to test with did CC fine on a Hitachi TV. I think samsung has ignored making sure captioning works properly on all their TV's input. The tvs generally only do CC in the analog signal input, like the CompoSITE input and S-Video. I have yet to find something that works to let me play my DVDS with captions with the Samsung TV. I do not have digital cable, but that probably works because the tuner is probably looking for line 708 cc from the ATSC signal. I have no problem "Defaming" samsung for not making sure their TV's are fully accessible and captioning works with all input; I have tested some of their other models as well. Like you I've seen other TV's do CC properly in those source modes.

Avical is coming next month to calibrate my 6768. Can't wait.
But, I have a question. I'm running DirecTV and DVD thru the hdmi inputs on my new Yamaha RX-V2700. Will there be a problem calibrating the HDMI input on the 6768 for both DirecTV and DVD on the same input? Also, what about calibration when I add an HD-DVD player later?
Glad to hear that Dave will be calibrating your display soon. :) There will likely not be a problem using one input for both your DirectTV and DVD. However, you're HD DVD player should go into its own input because it will need slightly different values. But no worries, you'll be taken care of as far as that's concerned. ;)

Eliab

I am a deaf individual and I purchased a different Samsung TV (3082WH) and spent a week testing it and found that it doesnt do component CC nor HDMI CC... it is a fault of the TV itself, not the devices hooked up or setups, really, because the Samsung DVD player I purchased to test with did CC fine on a Hitachi TV. I think samsung has ignored making sure captioning works properly on all their TV's input. The tvs generally only do CC in the analog signal input, like the CompoSITE input and S-Video. I have yet to find something that works to let me play my DVDS with captions with the Samsung TV. I do not have digital cable, but that probably works because the tuner is probably looking for line 708 cc from the ATSC signal. I have no problem "Defaming" samsung for not making sure their TV's are fully accessible and captioning works with all input; I have tested some of their other models as well. Like you I've seen other TV's do CC properly in those source modes.
Interesting. Have you brought this up to Samsung's attention?

Eliab

Hi All,

Just purchased a 6188 at my local magnolia. They came down on the price pretty easily without much haggling. THe price they gave me was comparable to the 6187 sale price at CC.

Then, last night I went to another Magnolia in my area, and they quoted me a price 10% lower than the other magnolia.


Any ideas why this may be? Seems like they're trying to push theire inventory, maybe new models on the horizion?

PM me if your interested in the actual prices.

-Bill
Could be that they're simply overstocked. Perhaps Samsung or Magnolia is running a promotion or spiff program for the sales staff, etc. Or maybe they need to make more room for new gear like you mentioned.

Eliab

I am not sure that is correct. You should be able to get DTS over SPDIF. Furthermore, I believe you'll be able to get TRUE HD over HDMI with an A/V receiver that can handle the decoding. The one thing you won't get vs the Toshiba HD DVD player is analog outputs of the TRUE HD signal.

I'm kinda new to this, didn't even know TRUE HD existed until just recently. You'll want to confirm this for yourself if you're planning on getting a PS3.

BTW: The Toshiba analog outs are 6.1.
Hey Jim! Just wanted to shoot you a quick hello. :) I hope that you're once again enjoying your 5078. :) BTW, I still haven't watched BSG if you can believe it!

I hope all is well.

Eliab

Ya know it's amazing. I used to work at a factory that simply didn't hire people with physical infirmities. I'm not condoning it. I think they could have accomodated many physically challenged people. However, I do recall walking past row upon row of empty handicapped parking spots that the gov'ment made 'em put i even though they were rarely used. There must have been at least 100 spots.

Experimenting with HTPC last year on an old CRT, I needed to use Microsofts extensions for the visually impared. The old tube set just sucked and I just needed to set up the PC. Never the less, the Microsoft stuff worked very well, but the aftermarket software packages that I was using didn't and it sort of defeated the whole thing.

Now I find out that Samsungs near top of the heap TVs don't accomodate CC. It must be the numbers. Evidently, Samsung doesn't believe the hearing impaired market is large enough to implement CC for those individuals that need it. Shame Shame on Samsung. Maybe we need the gov'ment to for them to include CC on all their sets. I'd boycott manufacturers that don't accomodate the impaired, if I was impaired.

The upside is that people that need CC don't spend a small fortune on A/V receivers & speakers.

I'm not writing this tonge in cheek. I mean all of it. So don't go all off the deep end thinking I'm flaming impaired people.

Tyrod, I think you started off a little hot. lol. Especially if you think some might take it that way.

My understanding is analog CC works on analog inputs and digital works on digital. In other words I don't think there is an issue with these sets as long as you're using the right components on the right inputs?

Digital CC works on digital inputs from a digital STB. This was discussed before and I don't think the issue was with Samsung or these sets after all.

Glad to hear that Dave will be calibrating your display soon. :) There will likely not be a problem using one input for both your DirectTV and DVD. However, you're HD DVD player should go into its own input because it will need slightly different values. But no worries, you'll be taken care of as far as that's concerned. ;)

Eliab
Thanks Eliab,
I understand the differences in the inputs. I don't have the hd player yet. I do have a question about calibration. I know you like to turn off Dnie, but I prefer a sharp bright picture. I never did like the warm or cool setting in the user menu so I settled on normal. Since the LE was replaced recently the picture is almost perfect to my eyes. In fact it is much better than when I first bought the set. I've heard others say that the picture came out soft after calibration. Any thoughts on this?

Ok, I'm having a problem. My STB is on HDMI. I've had a picture problem lately. I have audio. A couple of times I've had a green screen with a thin vertical line in the center. The other times I've had static even though its set to blue screen. The other inputs work fine like coax. and composite.

How do I know if its the HDMI input on the set or the HDMI on the STB? It seems to be one or the other.

I've had the same problem ever since Comcast sent newer firmware to my Motorola STB. I think it's a hand shake issue with HDMI. I swapped STBs with my newer HLS series in my living room and the HLR had the same problem, where as the HLS worked fine over HDMI with both STBs.

Ok, I'm having a problem. My STB is on HDMI. I've had a picture problem lately. I have audio. A couple of times I've had a green screen with a thin vertical line in the center. The other times I've had static even though its set to blue screen. The other inputs work fine like coax. and composite.

How do I know if its the HDMI input on the set or the HDMI on the STB? It seems to be one or the other.

Like moss312, I started having HDMI problems with my DVRs after a firmware update last June. I have 2 Scientific Atlanta 8300 DVRs. One is connected to my HLR6168W and the other is connected to a Panasonic plasma. Both DVRs started acting up on HDMI, after the latest firmware update. I get static on both TVs with HDMI if I have the audio on the DVRs set to Dolby Digital. The DVRs work fine over HDMI if Dolby Digital is turned off.

Thanks guys. That's interesting you mentioned that since I think the issues started when they upgraded the menus. I don't know if that was a firmware update on my end or not.

I found that if I cycle the inputs that it works fine. In other words is it possible for the set to be a little broken or is it either broken or not? Something is messed up. I haven't asked my friend if he has the same problem. He has Comsucks with a 5078.

I guess I need to dump the content on the DVR sooner than later. lol.

Any way to test if its the set, STB or the firmware? Thanks.

Ok, I'm having a problem. My STB is on HDMI. I've had a picture problem lately. I have audio. A couple of times I've had a green screen with a thin vertical line in the center. The other times I've had static even though its set to blue screen. The other inputs work fine like coax. and composite.

How do I know if its the HDMI input on the set or the HDMI on the STB? It seems to be one or the other.

This may or may not be related to your problem. My HLR5668 occasionally displayed an all-green screen when using my SA 8300HD DVR via HDMI. I could clear this up by gently tapping the TV. It then stopped handshaking, causing the DVR to pop up an error message to the effect that "your TV is not HDCP compatible." A digital board replacement cured both problems.

Thanks. That's just it though. It is frequent now, but not all the time. lol. It works eventually now that I think I know what to do but I still can't determine if its the set or STB? I'll keep at it.

Thanks Eliab,
I understand the differences in the inputs. I don't have the hd player yet. I do have a question about calibration. I know you like to turn off Dnie, but I prefer a sharp bright picture.
DNIe has nothing to do with a sharp bright picture. It adds excessive edge enhancement, horizontal banding, and floats the black creating a non-detailed black region. When Dave is over, make sure to ask him to demonstrate what happens to your picture when DNIe is turned on vs. when it's kept off. It'll take you 30 seconds or less to realize how bad it actually is.

I never did like the warm or cool setting in the user menu so I settled on normal. Since the LE was replaced recently the picture is almost perfect to my eyes. In fact it is much better than when I first bought the set.
Dave will ensure that you display will be able to show material much more accurately than ever before. :)

I've heard others say that the picture came out soft after calibration. Any thoughts on this?
It was incorrectly calibrated and/or the people that had it done liked an overly edgy picture with huge amounts of superfluous edge enhancement.

Eliab

Thanks guys. That's interesting you mentioned that since I think the issues started when they upgraded the menus. I don't know if that was a firmware update on my end or not.

I found that if I cycle the inputs that it works fine. In other words is it possible for the set to be a little broken or is it either broken or not? Something is messed up. I haven't asked my friend if he has the same problem. He has Comsucks with a 5078.

I guess I need to dump the content on the DVR sooner than later. lol.

Any way to test if its the set, STB or the firmware? Thanks.

I think the newer firmware Comcast uploaded is just not fully compatible with the HLR series. Both STBs I have from Comcast have the same issue with my HLR 6168, but both work fine with my newer HLS 5086. The problem did not surface with the HLR until the update.

Moss312, thanks for your help. I normally consider firmware to be model or serial number specific? Comsucks did just upgrade their Guide and Menus in my area which applies to all STBs. I just realized my friend has the older STB. I have the new DCT 3412 I.

My OEM warranty is close to expiring so I wonder if its better to get a service call and have them check the rest of the set while they're at it.

It just doesn't make sense that this issue only applies to certain sets. I'm glad you don't have this issue with your other set but there must be other sets with the same problem if you think its firmware related.

This is not acceptable if its Comsucks fault and will need to correct the problem. I didn't want to call Comsucks until I empty the DVR. lol.

Anyone with a digital board issue have HDMI work under certain circumstances or did it just not work at all?

Anyone with a digital board issue have HDMI work under certain circumstances or did it just not work at all?

Mine worked intermittently until it finally would not work at all. Replaced the digital board and all is well now.

BTW: I plan on hooking up a 3412 in the next few days (waiting on a HDMI switcher I ordered). I'll let you know how well it plays with my 5078.

Jameskollar, thanks. Are you sure the HDMI switcher will pass HDCP with HD/BR DVD? I figure it won't but you might not need that right now? That would be interesting if it does.

I've been away from this forum for a few months, and I've got a question.
I still love my HL-R5078W! I had tried a HL-S5688W, but the HL-R has a better picture.
Lately though, I've noticed the noise that my fan makes. I never could hear it before.
Is this common? The TV is one year old.
Thanks!

Hdtvbostonma, has anything changed in the room? I would eliminate that first. How far away do you have to be to hear it? I wonder if it could be the color wheel instead?

Regardless its best to get a service call and get an extended warranty if you don't have one already and no that's not common, or should I say not reported here. lol.

Hdtvbostonma, has anything changed in the room? I would eliminate that first. How far away do you have to be to hear it? I wonder if it could be the color wheel instead?

Regardless its best to get a service call and get an extended warranty if you don't have one already and no that's not common, or should I say not reported here. lol.

I'm being real picky, it has to be really quiet for me to notice. My Moto 3412 makes more noise than the TV. I'm at appx. 10-12 feet. No one else has noticed.
I've got the 15 months from Samsung, plus an extra 12 from AMEX.

Hdtvbostonma, its funny you mention noise. Every once in a while I hear a hummm type of noise from the back. My STB makes a lot of noise too. I muted the set and the hum is still there. Its more of an electrical sound than mechanical if that makes sense? I too noticed the noise recently but kept forgetting to check into it.

I'm being real picky, it has to be really quiet for me to notice. My Moto 3412 makes more noise than the TV. I'm at appx. 10-12 feet. No one else has noticed.
I've got the 15 months from Samsung, plus an extra 12 from AMEX.

I have the same model and it's about eight months old. The set was originally quiet but now I hear the fan or the color wheel. I can't hear it under normal viewing conditions but I'm monitoring it in case it gets worse. Earlier Samsungs had a similar problem. My set has been calibrated and veluxed by Gregg Lloewen so I don't want to have anything changed until I really have to.

Just finished adjusting my HL-R6768W per Eliab's "Samsung's Chiller Theatre" procedure (Digital Video Essentials, service menu, DNIe, H/V position, index delay, gamma, actuator gain, brightness, contrast, color, CCA). Looks OK, and all steps of the gray ramp are distinct on my DVD players.

But then I tried adjusting the VGA input from my Radeon 9800 Pro, which I'm running at 1360x768 because 720p and 1080i have never worked reliably with this Samsung. Adjusting brightness, only the +4% stripe is visible (no +2% or below black). Adjusting contrast, the top 6-8 white patches always clip. Fiddling with the Radeon's brightness/contrast controls via Catalyst doesn't help.

BTW, I was playing DVE on my Plextor PX-716UF external DVD drive with Intervideo WinDVD.

Any ideas? Anybody got their VGA input correctly calibrated?

I don't know if this is your problem, but I tried to use the 9800 Pro to power my HTPC and found that the performance was lacking. I switched over to a PCIe card and all my problems went away. I've not tried to tune the color to any standards as I only use the HTPC to watch OTA HD, so I don't really know if this will solve your problem. I do know that the lesser expensive x700 (exact model I don't remember) PCIe card works pretty good. I'm sure some of the newer PCIe cards are prolly even better yet. I'm running the PCIe card at full 1920x1080, 1:1 pixel mapping and I'm quite satisfied.

Milos47, I'm not sure if this is the issue but if I remember correctly the card must have 1080p listed as one of the native resolutions it can handle. I think next to the resolution on the chart shows the refresh rate for 1080p the resolution. Both must be set right in order to work.

If the card doesn't list 1080p then you would need to upgrade, which most people need to do since most computers can't handle 1080p. I thought your card was high end but I'm not sure. The other issue could be the VGA cable. Make sure its cheap. Most expensive cables don't work and make sure it isn't a monitor extension cable.

Due to the 360 update being able to do 1080p output now i decided to get the vga cable and check it out. My problem is that the colors looked washed out and all of the letters have a hazy look to them. It does not matter what res i select either. Is anybody else having this problem or is there some settings i need to set to fix this or maybe a new cable. I would really like the 1=1 pixel mapping, but if the picture looks like it does i will stick with 720p on component.

sorry, forgot to mention the TV is an hlr5678w.

Due to the 360 update being able to do 1080p output now i decided to get the vga cable and check it out. My problem is that the colors looked washed out and all of the letters have a hazy look to them. It does not matter what res i select either. Is anybody else having this problem or is there some settings i need to set to fix this or maybe a new cable. I would really like the 1=1 pixel mapping, but if the picture looks like it does i will stick with 720p on component.

Dammit...I just typed you a full paragraph on what to do and it somehow got deleted. I don't want to type it again. Just trust me, the VGA cable is the way to go. Just "search this thread" and you will find my posts on this subject a year ago. I have my 6168W brightness set to 100 and contrast to 22 and it looks fantastic. Also, VGA gives you less lag than component.

Also here is a link to another thread in another forum that I posted a year ago:

http://www.hdtvarcade.com/hdtvforum/index.php?showtopic=3604&hl=bleached++out++colors

Read the whole three page thread, however specifically my posts on page two.

I also have my 360 dashboard set to output 1920X1080 since the Xbox 360 update a couple of days ago, however, until we get games that support 1080P I don't think it makes much difference to us over 1280X720. The only difference being the 360 is now upscaling the video intead of our Samsungs. Maybe there is less lag though with the 360 doing "the work" instead of our Samsungs.

Maybe someone here can give me a few pointers. My 5678 just came out of warranty a few weeks ago and guess what, I now have the infamous " dark line" on the bottom left of the display. Do I have any options besides getting raped.
Anyone know of companies that do post warranty warranties? Is is still worth calling Samsung about?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

rdworacek,
If you registered your purchase with Samsung you have a 15 month warranty.

RE: Xbox via VGA cable

The initial setting on my VGA input were very washed out and flat. After calibration the are very good and in testing streaming 1080P WMA demo video file it looks great. I've pre ordered my HD DVD drive option from J&R and can't wait!

I am tired of all this video game lag crap.

I want to sell my TV.

What do you think a fair asking price for a 15 month old 6168W is?

Thanks.

I am tired of all this video game lag crap.

I want to sell my TV.

What do you think a fair asking price for a 15 month old 6168W is?

Thanks.

What video game lag crap?

I have your same TV with an Xbox 360 and VGA cable and I don't notice any problems; what are you referring to?

What video game lag crap?

I have your same TV with an Xbox 360 and VGA cable and I don't notice any problems; what are you referring to?

Anything that's not an XBOX360 w/ VGA cable.

Namely, GameCube. And in a few weeks....Wii.

I have the 6168 connected to an Xbox 360 via VGA. The VGA connection reduces the lag by about 50% compared to component but does not eliminate it. I also have a Panasonic plasma, which has almost no lag. My playing ability is significantly improved, when playing on the plasma.

IGN report:
http://gear.ign.com/articles/720/720303p1.html

I have the 6168 connected to an Xbox 360 via VGA. The VGA connection reduces the lag by about 50% compared to component but does not eliminate it. I also have a Panasonic plasma, which has almost no lag. My playing ability is significantly improved, when playing on the plasma.

IGN report:
http://gear.ign.com/articles/720/720303p1.html

That's an interesting article...I'm reading it now; thanks!

However, have you tried outputting the Xbox 360 at 1920X1080 in teh dashboard since the update Live Update on 10/31/06? That should eliminate any video processing/upscaling by our Samsung and could possible eliminate lag altogether. All upscaling would now be done within the Xbox360 itself, and presumably it could, or at least should be able to compensate gamepad input with video response.

EDIT: I just wrote an email to the editor's at IGN concerning that article. Here is what I wrote them:

In the above referenced article found here:

http://gear.ign.com/articles/720/720303p1.html

You showed Reader jvanduser's experiment running Halo 2 on two Xbox's to demonstrate lag on a Samsung HL-R6168W. I have that same HDTV, but I now play games with an Xbox 360 instead of the old Xbox (although I still own one). What I would be interested to know is if now that the Xbox 360 has received a Live update on 10/31/06 which let's it output in 1080P does that now eliminate lag on these Samsungs? I think theoretically it should since now the Samsung (using VGA) is now receiving its native 1080P signal directly from the Xbox. I would test it if I had a way to, but I don't. I wonder if Reader jvanduser has an Xbox 360 and I wonder if you could contact him and see if he could run this test of his with the Xbox 360 outputting 1920X1080 over VGA cable? Or maybe you have some other resources or readers that have the capability to test this?

Thanks!

Dave

My 360 is out for service. I’m looking forward to trying it with the new update but I’m not optimistic. I think the video processing is more than a 1080P conversion but I’m hoping I’m wrong.

My 360 is out for service. I’m looking forward to trying it with the new update but I’m not optimistic. I think the video processing is more than a 1080P conversion but I’m hoping I’m wrong.

Well, since our Samsung's display native 1080P, and now the Xbox is outputting 1080P directly through VGA, there shouldn't theoretically be any video processing necessary to be performed by the Samsung. Well except maybe the DNIE thing, but that can be turned off. "Theoretical" being the operative word here I guess.

Also, just because the Xbox 360 is doing the upscaling doesn't necessarily mean it isn't introducing its own lag. I would hope they would compensate for it somehow inside the 360 but I can't say for sure.

Bridgeboy,
If you have a laptop that can output 1080P you may be able to confirm your theory by running the experiment discussed here.
http://hdtvlag.googlepages.com/

Rdworacek, what exactly is your issue? Do you have the vertical stripe or shadow on the left side? Most of these issues are fixed with a $1,200+ labor LE. You should check to see if you're covered and you should consider getting an extended regardless. TVA has a good plan. The main thing for these extendeds is that the set has to be functional at the time of purchase and you have to wait thirty days for service. You should look into this right away, maybe even tonight since Samsung might be open.

hey Bridgeboy thanks for the help. I knew somewhere in the thread was the answer but i was at work and doing a quick glance through. Thanks again for the help i will check it out when i get home.

Apologies if this has been asked before...

How does a failing bulb act? My 5668W is dimming every few minutes and then going back to full brightness some random period later, repeating. It does this for all inputs, so I know it's not the video source. Does this sound characteristic of a failing bulb, or could it maybe be a light engine problem? FWIW, I don't have the dark line issue.

Thanks,

- Ray

Bigray327, I'm not sure, it might be the bulb but it could be the ballast. A couple of people here had that replaced and not the bulb. I don't think its the LE since the picture is fine but dim or flickering. Oh, and that is not common and would have been difficult to find here. lol.

Question: If I put a 1080 image onto the HLR6168w via computer on VGA the image doesn't fill the entire screen...There is a black border around the screen...Why does this happen? How to I get my computer image to fill the entire screen?

Hdrevolution, the video card must say it outputs 1080 and be sure the refresh rate is set right. Then follow the steps in the Sam. manual for the PC settings. It is straightforward but I don't have the info right now. lol.

I have a Mac laptop with a mini-DVI to VGA connector. I don't think that that the cable supports 1080 because it smushes it until it looks like a compressed 3:4 image on the TV. Mind you, it doesn't do this on 720...I've set the refresh to 60hertz...equivalent to 60fps?

hdrevolution, I don't know if the Mac outputs 1080? You need to check that first. If it does then the cable should be fine since its made to output that signal, if it does.

On the VGA input menu on the set go to Picture and be sure its set to Wide PC. Then hit the down arrow to adjust the picture. First be sure the PC image is centered by using the left and middle adjustments and then expand it with the adjustment on the right. I think that should do it. Anything simulated will probably not look good.

hey Bridgeboy thanks for the help. I knew somewhere in the thread was the answer but i was at work and doing a quick glance through. Thanks again for the help i will check it out when i get home.

You're welcome! :)

Did you have any luck?

I did an A/B comparison between my 360 w/ the new update vs a $80 upconverting DVD player from Costco. The DVD player won hands down. The image was so much more sharp with the DVD player connected via HDMI vs the 360 upscaling the DVD to 1080p over VGA. Lag wasnt an issue since its just DVDs playing out my TV Speakers.

You're welcome! :)

Did you have any luck?


Man that helped alot, but i was getting alot of over saturation on red and yellow, changed cables and it fixed the red ( which is still a little over saturated)but not the yellow. Do you or anybody know if we can turn on the color saturation or my color control in the service menue for the vga input. If i can fix the yellow saturation problem that would be great. Other than that the picture is absolutly beautiful. If anybody needs i will take a pictures of vga and component to show you what i mean.

Hey have you guys turned off all of the DNIe setting in the service menu or have you left some of them on? I get a lot of macroblocking on out of focus backgrounds like walls or water. Seems to be worse when the scene is inside or a dark scene.
thanks

Has anyone seen a replaced light engine develop the left side shadow yet? I scrolled through the posts and saw that some people are still getting it for the first time, but has anyone who has had theirs replaced needed another replacement? Mine was just replaced (several times actually) in May/June and has developed it again as of today. I am going to call Samsung tomorrow and see what they want to do. Last time it was in the shop I came within just a couple of days of them replacing the entire set.

Really glad I bought that extended warranty right now!

I have a 5678 with a rented CableCard from Time Warner. Time Warner's service in our area has been taken over by Comcast. I called Comcast on Friday stating the problem. They said the transition from Time Warner to Comcast should have NO effects and that I should NOT have seen a change in channel accesss. Comcast told me to remove (eject) the Cable card and reinstall. After reinstalling, I now have access to FOXHD... I used to get NBC-HD, ABC-HD, CBS-HD, PBS-HD, FOX-HD and TNT-HD.

In the past when I received all the HD channels, it may take a couple of seconds to "pull in" the digital signal. But it would always come in. Now, it just "blue screens" (no signal) right away.

Also, the TVGuide is blank with "no data!"

What's up?.. CableCard dying? Weak signal? TV?

Crew

4.2Crew, now you know why I call them Comsucks. lol. If I had to eliminate something I'd say the set is fine. Its up to Comsucks to figure it out. I still get problems, its either the STB or the signal itself. I'd be sure to have them bring a new card just in case you need it. You could also have them try a reset first before making an appointment. I don't think you'd get an issue like this if it was the set's fault.

Has anyone seen a replaced light engine develop the left side shadow yet? I scrolled through the posts and saw that some people are still getting it for the first time, but has anyone who has had theirs replaced needed another replacement? I'm on my third light engine. The original engine in our HL-R6768W developed a one-inch green shadow on the left side and was replaced about five or six months into the one-year warranty. The second light engine developed the same problem less than a week before the original warranty ran out.

Really glad I bought that extended warranty right now! I didn't have the extended warranty (I usually avoid them), but after the second failure, I purchased one.

This week I decided to order a new bulb after a year of heavy use. My Samsung HLR-5678 says to use BP96-01073A.The original bulb inside the set is # BP96-01074A. I received my new bulb and installed it . After 20 or so minutes the TV picture flickered,the fan or something in the back ran loud,the TV shut off. I got the 3 blinkings lights problem.

I called Samsung and they said there was no bulb matching my original bulb. I googled it and found no results . I had my extended warranty people send out a tech yesterday. They replaced the original bulb with the new bulb the same model I tried the other day. Results: same problem.

Tomorrow I will call the extended warranty people again for another service call. I am now still using my original bulb which works fine but not so bright. Can't buy anymore bulbs this week. :)

Has anyone heard of this problem before? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

Errett, you need to be firm with them and tell them the hassle you've been through. Don't take any bs, but be pleasant. Tell them how this is not acceptable. Do you think they have notations from last time when you discussed replacing the set? Find out what constitutes a lemon from their standpoint. One person here was able to get an upgrade, better than a replacement. I know several people had been frustrated and wanted a replacement.

I heard the cause of the shadow was due to a mirror shifting position from the clips that hold it in place and that they have changed the clips on the LEs. I wonder if its possible you weren't given the newer LEs, if this is at all true. Make sure they don't pick up the set and that they bring a new LE with them.

Sfaprilbob, I started to follow you but are you saying they replaced the lamp, it didn't make a difference and they just left? I'd be a little pissed. lol. I think it sounds more ballast related. It would be interesting to see if you needed a lamp or if it was just the ballast? I think only one person had a power issue, which didn't affect the lamp, besides the picture being black. lol. I'd make sure they bring it just in case since they've already wasted your time. Can you return the lamp, how much did you pay and where did you get it?

Thanks bcvp,my sevice persons left after the bulb was installed and the set worked.After 20 minutes or longer is when the TV flickered,went black and shut off with the 3 blinking lights.This is the exact thing that happened the first time with the other new lamp.I did return the first lamp for credit.I am holding off returning the second lamp until I am sure of the problem.

My TV works perfectly when I put back in the original bulb except brightness. I still think that the original bulb(Samsung says they don't have that lamp) and the recommended bulb may be the problem.I can't understand why the original lamp that came with the TV,machine stamped model # on the red sticker on lamp can't be found.

I will call my extended warranty people again tomorrow.

Thanks bcvp,my sevice persons left after the bulb was installed and the set worked.After 20 minutes or longer is when the TV flickered,went black and shut off with the 3 blinking lights.This is the exact thing that happened the first time with the other new lamp.I did return the first lamp for credit.I am holding off returning the second lamp until I am sure of the problem.

My TV works perfectly when I put back in the original bulb except brightness. I still think that the original bulb(Samsung says they don't have that lamp) and the recommended bulb may be the problem.I can't understand why the original lamp that came with the TV,machine stamped model # on the red sticker on lamp can't be found.

I will call my extended warranty people again tomorrow.

Tell them to bring you a new LE. You shouldn't have to mess around with the lamp while your still under warranty. It's an easy swap. If you need to make up an excuse that you see a shadow along any border of your choosing. ;)

BVCP,

Haven't forgotten about you. Still plan on hooking up that 3412 and will give you a report as soon as I do.

I will suggest that they bring a new LE.
Excuse me,what's an LE?
Thanks.

Light Engine. It's modular and has the color wheel, lamp, optics, etc. This will eliminate any disharmony between your current LE and lamp as they go out all together and are tested together. Takes less than 15 minutes to replace.

One thing though, some of the service techs do not know about the DMD -> Digital Board transfer in the service menu that MUST be performed. Make sure thay do that otherwise your colors, brightness, etc. will most likely be way off.

There are some of us on this board that can help you do this yourself (me included). The tech may give you some goobly gook that this does not need to be done but quite frankly they do not know what they are talking about. It's right in the service manual.

I've had to do it myself as have serveral others on this thread and it's not hard to do, but it is important. Best of luck.

BTW: BVCP is absolutely correct. Replacing an LE is an "in home" job. Do not let them take the set with them.

Errett, you need to be firm with them and tell them the hassle you've been through. Don't take any bs, but be pleasant. Tell them how this is not acceptable. Do you think they have notations from last time when you discussed replacing the set? Find out what constitutes a lemon from their standpoint. One person here was able to get an upgrade, better than a replacement. I know several people had been frustrated and wanted a replacement.

I heard the cause of the shadow was due to a mirror shifting position from the clips that hold it in place and that they have changed the clips on the LEs. I wonder if its possible you weren't given the newer LEs, if this is at all true. Make sure they don't pick up the set and that they bring a new LE with them.

I spoke with Samsung tonight and they have requested a replacement set. Someone will review the issues with the set (I mentioned this is technically LE 4 they will be installing) and I should have an answer by the end of the week. I had to fax in a copy of the receipt showing what I had paid for it and when it was purchased.

I will update you guys when I hear something.

E

I think the LE idea is a good one but I'm not so sure they will be willing to do that just to test since that is the most expensive part at around $1,200+. Great if they do and that's why I think its a ballast issue since that is related to the lamp and not the image. These lamps decrease in brightness over time. Do you know how long you've had the lamp or the hours on the set?

I don't get why finding the right lamp is an issue, that should be really straightforward by now. Did you find any info in the manual on it? You might check the website where I think you enter the model number of the set for the parts you need. Its probably correct, the same lamp with a new model number, which again is why I think its the ballast. That seems to be the latest, new issue a couple of people here have had.

I thought about it some more before I posted this. lol. You just went through the lamp and two new ones and its not the lamp. The point of getting an LE to test is really to be sure it has the correct lamp, which I think you had. I don't think a bad lamp flickers afaik, I think it just dims before it goes. I'd tell them to bring the ballast and an LE and confirm the lamp part number. lol.

One last thing before I hit the post button. lol. If the set shuts off soon after messing with the lamp then that could be the lamp door sensor, which has also been common lately I guess since more people are replacing their lamp now. The set won't go on with the door open so if the switch is messed up the set could turn off.

Sorry for my ignorance. Just want to communicate effeciently with ComSucks today!

Sorry for my ignorance. Just want to communicate effeciently with ComSucks today!

Set-top box - your cable box.

E

I posted this in another thread, but I figured here would get more attention.....
Will there be any Delay with Wii + Samsung 720p HLR???

I basically eliminated as much of the delay in my Samsung 720 HLR5667W.
I did this by running it in game mode, and turning off DNle. However, I believe there may still be some delay.

I am concerned about the delay, because I was thinking about purchasing a Nintendo Wii, and if the delay is still existant, I will likely just run it via component to VGA. However has anyone completely removed the delay, and are confident that the Wii will work smoothly? Let me know what you guys were gonna do to cope with the HLR's problem.

So, all local my HD channels have slowly disappeared. Called ComSuck twice and was instructed twice to BRING my CableCard into the nearest service center and swap for a replacement... Drove 22 miles each way only to be informed at the service center that "CableCards have to be swapped by a technician."

You know, sometimes costumers become impatient, frustrated, aggetated for good reason. Now, I can only assume the same incompetence from the service technician.

"When I know different, I'll think different."

I just downloaded the Fall service update for my Xbox 360, which is currently hooked up to my Sammy 6178 via component (with digital audio to Denon 3805). I have been very pleased with picture quality.

Question is – would PQ be even better using VGA input on TV? Especially if I plan to get the HD-DVD? (Not even sure if any games take advantage of 1080p?

Does anyone have a complete list of settings to get the best 1080p picture quality? (Not just contrast and brightness - but also resolution settings, and any other menu adjustments made when setting up vga for the first time)

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

I just downloaded the Fall service update for my Xbox 360, which is currently hooked up to my Sammy 6178 via component (with digital audio to Denon 3805). I have been very pleased with picture quality.

Question is – would PQ be even better using VGA input on TV? Especially if I plan to get the HD-DVD? (Not even sure if any games take advantage of 1080p?

Does anyone have a complete list of settings to get the best 1080p picture quality? (Not just contrast and brightness - but also resolution settings, and any other menu adjustments made when setting up vga for the first time)

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!


Short Answer, yes ;)

Basically it goes like this
HDMI > DVI > VGA > Component > S-Video > The other one

Jblade, gaming via VGA has almost no lag on most games people have reported here. I think it is more game dependent.

I spoke with Samsung tonight and they have requested a replacement set. Someone will review the issues with the set (I mentioned this is technically LE 4 they will be installing) and I should have an answer by the end of the week. I had to fax in a copy of the receipt showing what I had paid for it and when it was purchased.

I will update you guys when I hear something.

E

Errett - I would be very interested to hear how this turns out for you. My HRL6768W just started showing the left side shadow. This is the 2nd time I've had this problem occur, and as if by clockwork this happened right around the same time as before, i.e. around the 700-hour usage mark. The first time they replaced the LE fairly quickly, but I had to call the tech back a few days later since the DMD was badly misaligned and created a different type of shadow over the upper edge of the screen. In fact, I scheduled my ISF calibrator to come over during the same time as the return tech visit, and it was the ISF guy (Chuck Williams - great guy) who was able to get the DMD board aligned properly. I don't know if Samsung will authorize a product swap after just 2 LE failures, but I am going to try my hardest to convey the fact that this is a systemic problem which will re-occur over and over again. I'm not necesssarily looking for a freebie here, but I would like the opportunity to upgrade to a new set (thinking HLS7178W here) for relatively little cost. I called Samsung support today, and they promised that someone in their "customer sat" or whatever its called department will be contacting me in 4-5 business days. If you have any advice or words of wisdeom on how I should approach them it would be very much appreciated.

4.2Crew, welcome to Comsucks. lol. That is ridiculous and you should speak to a supervisor on the phone if you have the time to let them have it. I do know from other people here that only a tech. can replace it. It just shows how people here know more than the people at Comsucks. lol. Make sure they know to bring a new card with them. You might check to see if there are different cards to choose from like the STBs so you don't waste any more time.

Basically it goes like this
HDMI > DVI > VGA > Component > S-Video > The other one
VGA is analog. I have my 6178 connected to the VGA output of my PC with a 10' cable and it has some "ghosting" - like what you see on analog OTA broadcast channels. Be sure you use a high quality VGA cable. I'm using 1920 x 1080 x 60 Hz.

If you can't find anything in the AVS Home Theater Gaming forum, try the Xbox 360 HDTV thread over at the HDTV voice: http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/forumdisplay.php?f=480

Jshore, new games are 1080p, so going VGA would be great and there is less lag. It will be interesting to see if you'll be able to play HD movies via VGA. I don't think you'll be able to for copy protection reasons.

True, VGA is analog but the trade off is that its progressive since these sets don't take a progressive HDMI signal. Most people have found that more expensive, high quality VGA cables don't work. I'd start inexpensive and go from there. Make sure its not a VGA extension cable. I think mine is ten or fifteen feet I got cheap at Staples for $2 a foot.

I'm curious - I tried switching from component to vga last night for my Samsung 6178 DLP (1080i thru HDMI, but 1080p thru VGA). I was underwhelmed. Plus the screen was slightly smaller overall, with a black edge all around the picture (like it had been shrunk 10% or so.).

What sort of adjustments (brightness, contrast, etc) should I make to see the improved picture? Also, do I set to wide PC, then use the buttons below that option to increase the image size to fit the full screen?

And when it is all said and done - am i correct in that I can now have full 1080p via VGA - especially for HD-DVD's soon? What is the maximum resolution I would be getting via component? (I thought my xbox says 1080i output, but i'm not 100% on what my Samsung component resolution is - but i will say the picture looks pretty darn good.)

Thanks for any suggestions!

I've been using VGA exclusively on my 61".
The screen is slightly smaller but the lag is so bad via component, there is no other option.

If you have either Madden or NCAA, try the kicking game. On component, I could never get it right but in VGA it was 100% every time, even though I can't physically see the lag.

I've been using VGA exclusively on my 61".
The screen is slightly smaller but the lag is so bad via component, there is no other option.

If you have either Madden or NCAA, try the kicking game. On component, I could never get it right but in VGA it was 100% every time, even though I can't physically see the lag.


I have both Madden and NCAA '07.... never really noticed a lag issue... (but it could be there and i just don't notice it).

The slightly smaller screen of VGA connection really bugged me. I know that's pretty stupid, but it did....

Wonder if when HD-DVD for Xbox 360 comes out, maybe i'll just replace the DVD player currently occupying my second hdmi slot with HDMI-connected XBox and none of this will matter. (Although i was debating leaving that second HDMI for the Apple iTV box - maybe i'll just hook THAT up via component when it is released). I think i need a tv with about 8 HDMI slots!

I have both Madden and NCAA '07.... never really noticed a lag issue... (but it could be there and i just don't notice it).

The slightly smaller screen of VGA connection really bugged me. I know that's pretty stupid, but it did....

Wonder if when HD-DVD for Xbox 360 comes out, maybe i'll just replace the DVD player currently occupying my second hdmi slot with HDMI-connected XBox and none of this will matter. (Although i was debating leaving that second HDMI for the Apple iTV box - maybe i'll just hook THAT up via component when it is released). I think i need a tv with about 8 HDMI slots!

Your telling me!
I have the following HDMI devices:
HD DVR Cable Box
DirectTV HD Receiver (for the NFL Ticket)
Toshiba HDDVD player
Upscaling SD DVD player

and soon to get (hopefully) the PS3.

If the reviews for the 360 HDDVD player are good, I may switch my Toshiba to Component to free up a HDMI slot.

According to the service technician, Comcast reallocated signal strength (bandwidth) in my area after taking over Time Warner's customer base resulting in many service calls immediately after the transition. After installing a larger in-line signal amp, all HD channels returned except for DIS-HD (1500) and TNT-HD (1505). They come in briefly, then pixalate and drop out. Tech advised three options: 1) Add another amp just before TV. 2) Have a the street-to-house coax cable upgraded. 3) Rent the cable box.

Skilled competent friendly technician. Weak and deceptive communication from Comcast corporate.

4.2Crew, I like option two at their expense. Do these amps have a negative impact on the picture, voice or data signals? Having a HD-DVR is a plus in an stb. I don't know how people with cards do it. lol.

Errett - I would be very interested to hear how this turns out for you. My HRL6768W just started showing the left side shadow. This is the 2nd time I've had this problem occur, and as if by clockwork this happened right around the same time as before, i.e. around the 700-hour usage mark. The first time they replaced the LE fairly quickly, but I had to call the tech back a few days later since the DMD was badly misaligned and created a different type of shadow over the upper edge of the screen. In fact, I scheduled my ISF calibrator to come over during the same time as the return tech visit, and it was the ISF guy (Chuck Williams - great guy) who was able to get the DMD board aligned properly. I don't know if Samsung will authorize a product swap after just 2 LE failures, but I am going to try my hardest to convey the fact that this is a systemic problem which will re-occur over and over again. I'm not necesssarily looking for a freebie here, but I would like the opportunity to upgrade to a new set (thinking HLS7178W here) for relatively little cost. I called Samsung support today, and they promised that someone in their "customer sat" or whatever its called department will be contacting me in 4-5 business days. If you have any advice or words of wisdeom on how I should approach them it would be very much appreciated.

Bob...

I will let you know what happens. I am supposed to have an answer by Friday afternoon or I am to call them back and be transferred over for an immediate answer.

E

One could lumber into Best Buy and ask these questions, but I prefer the experience, knowledge and candor of this forum.

The TWC transition to Comcast has resulted in much CableCard frustration. So, I'm considering switching from the CableCard to a HD cable box.

Can HD cable boxs be PURCHASED that pull in local HD (ABC-HD, CBS-HD, NBC-HD, FOX-HD, PBS-HD) AND free HD channels (DIS-HD, TNT-HD) through basic cable service (similar to what the CableCard provided)? If so, are there preferred models that function well with Comsuck service and our Samy's?

I have no interest in purchasing, setting-up, installing, looking at or dealing with OTA HD antennas for this application.

4.2Crew, afaik the STBs to purchase are only for satellite. Me and my friend are both on our second STBs. My mother is on her second Direct STB. After seeing the problems with STBs and with the new format that is supposed to be out when I last checked, I don't think buying one is a good idea. The STB is the only reason for going with Comsucks for me and my friend, who lives upstairs. We used to have SD Dish but they don't offer a deal for two HDTVs so we went back to Comsucks.

I'd get the Comsucks STB for now since there is no contract if that is something you're considering, while looking into buying your own. BTW you need to make an appointment for that too since they grab the codes off the set.

One could lumber into Best Buy and ask these questions, but I prefer the experience, knowledge and candor of this forum.

The TWC transition to Comcast has resulted in much CableCard frustration. So, I'm considering switching from the CableCard to a HD cable box.

Can HD cable boxs be PURCHASED that pull in local HD (ABC-HD, CBS-HD, NBC-HD, FOX-HD, PBS-HD) AND free HD channels (DIS-HD, TNT-HD) through basic cable service (similar to what the CableCard provided)? If so, are there preferred models that function well with Comsuck service and our Samy's?

I have no interest in purchasing, setting-up, installing, looking at or dealing with OTA HD antennas for this application.

Google QAM Tuner and see what you turn up.

4.2Crew, afaik the STBs to purchase are only for satellite. Me and my friend are both on our second STBs. My mother is on her second Direct STB. After seeing the problems with STBs and with the new format that is supposed to be out when I last checked, I don't think buying one is a good idea. The STB is the only reason for going with Comsucks for me and my friend, who lives upstairs. We used to have SD Dish but they don't offer a deal for two HDTVs so we went back to Comsucks.

I'd get the Comsucks STB for now since there is no contract if that is something you're considering, while looking into buying your own. BTW you need to make an appointment for that too since they grab the codes off the set.

BVCP,

Not entirely correct. There is a new HD DVR, the TIVO S3 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/explorer/B000I661J0/2/ref=pd_lpo_ase/002-4031496-8715268?) . It has dual tuners and supports 2 CableCards allowing you to record the same programs you would be able to record using the Comcast DVR. In other words, if you subscribe to premium channels, you will be able to record them as well as your basic channels. If it wasn't for the price, I'd be all over this.

For $15 per month for the Comcast DVR, I'll stick with that. Plus I don't have to worry about the maintenance and obsolence of my DVR.

Now I'm disappointed in my HLR 6168. I've been using the VGA cable from Microsoft because it did have noticeably less lag than component. My HD DVD drive came in today and it has a noticeably better picture with 1080i over component than it does over VGA. I switched back and fourth about five times hoping that VGA's picture would look just as good and it was just not the case. Component definitely looked better. I guess I'm back to lag gaming, unless M$ can fix the output quality over VGA.

Jameskollar, you got me. lol. I can't see anyone spending $800 for one STB though that will need to be serviced, that isn't the new format and don't you need to pay Tivo a monthly fee? Who buys this stuff? lol. I'm keeping my Comsucks until Dish wakes up that people might have two HDTVs.

moss312,
aaronwt seems very happy with the new HD DVD drive over VGA.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8859891&&#post8859891
I have the HD DVD drive on order and was hoping for more positive results from VGA than what you are getting. I’m curious what your picture settings are.

HLR VGA Settings:

I too had washed out VGA color and mis centered geometry. Trying to calibrate it myself made a small difference. I had my set professionally calibrated and the person arrived without the connector to hook his signal generator into the VGA port. I was able to use my Xbox360 to get the test patterns at to the set and the calibration made the VGA port look as good as my HDMI ports.

I'm still waiting to receive my HD-DVD drive, but the trailer for the Xbox 360 game "gears of war" was amazing.

Getting this set calibrated was certainly worth the $500

new2hometheater,
The only adjustments that are available in the user menu for the VGA input are contrast, brightness, color temp and geometry adjustments. According to DVE, I have never been able to get the colors right. Did you have to make any adjustments in the service menu.

moss312,
aaronwt seems very happy with the new HD DVD drive over VGA.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8859891&&#post8859891
I have the HD DVD drive on order and was hoping for more positive results from VGA than what you are getting. I’m curious what your picture settings are.

I was happy with VGA also, until I switched back to component. I prefer the colors using VGA. I liked the extended black levels using VGA. I definitely like less LAG using VGA.

VGA does have less detail that Component. On the opening FBI warning, I can clearly read the smaller letters. When the Blue screen with PG-13 comes up, I can clearly read Motion Picture Association of America. Using VGA it's blurry.

I do need to try changing my over scan. I have alot less over scan using vga. I wonder if I make it the same as component, which will zoom in the picture slightly, if it will look the same.

new2hometheater,
The only adjustments that are available in the user menu for the VGA input are contrast, brightness, color temp and geometry adjustments. According to DVE, I have never been able to get the colors right. Did you have to make any adjustments in the service menu.

The person doing the calibration worked in the service menu for the VGA calibration and it did make a big difference.

Ralph

The first thing I noticed when trying to use the VGA input with a either a 720p or 1080p input signal was that the color temperature and gray scale tracking were way off on the high side. Literally, the blue was off the chart. I could not tame the blue using either Movie mode or the service menu adjustments I used on the other inputs. The color gamut was also off in the secondaries and took really large changes in the CCA menu to get them close to what I achieved with the HDMI inpiuts. Oddly, when you bring up the DNIe submenu in the SM, the right side of the menu with the brightness, contrast and cuts/gain controls are not visible. They are there. If you move to an apparently blank space on the menu and press the select key on the remote, the setting will appear in the upper left. I can vouch that the "invisible" controls for brightness and contrast do work but the cuts/gains controls seem unresponsive.

I believe that Samsung intended this VGA input to only be used with a computer which, via the video card, could correct/control most of the things mentioned above. FWIW (I'm no expert, just a DIY'er).

donb1948, Thanks thats helpfull.

I'm curious - I tried switching from component to vga last night for my Samsung 6178 DLP (1080i thru HDMI, but 1080p thru VGA). I was underwhelmed. Plus the screen was slightly smaller overall, with a black edge all around the picture (like it had been shrunk 10% or so.).

What sort of adjustments (brightness, contrast, etc) should I make to see the improved picture? Also, do I set to wide PC, then use the buttons below that option to increase the image size to fit the full screen?

And when it is all said and done - am i correct in that I can now have full 1080p via VGA - especially for HD-DVD's soon? What is the maximum resolution I would be getting via component? (I thought my xbox says 1080i output, but i'm not 100% on what my Samsung component resolution is - but i will say the picture looks pretty darn good.)

Thanks for any suggestions!

I bought the HD-DVD player and a VGA cable for my xbox 360 and have the same problem.

Over componenet, it fills the whole screen and looks great, at 1080i. VGA gives 1080p, but it looks squished, with not taking up the whole screen, and the colors don't look as good.

And there is no way to configure the size from the user menus.

Annoying.

Plus the screen was slightly smaller overall, with a black edge all around the picture (like it had been shrunk 10% or so.). Page 134 of the Owner's Manual: "WidePC": Scales the picture to 92% of the TV screen, regardless of the aspect ratio of the input source.
I have seen a couple of posts that claim the borders could be removed using the "P.Size" button on the remote and the Zoom control that it brings up. It did not work for me (not enough range).

For Donb1948 and Turtleboy

Go through the menus. Under picture control and size. There are small options to move your picture left/right, up/down, and the third is to enlarge the picture on the PC input. I enlarged my as big as I could, which had slightly less overscan than component.

No update on the set exchange yet. Got hung up in traffic last night and got home after 6PM and the department I needed to speak with had gone home without calling me. I will call first thing Monday morning.

E

Go through the menus. Under picture control and size. There are small options to move your picture left/right, up/down, and the third is to enlarge the picture on the PC input.I enlarged my as big as I could, which had slightly less overscan than component. Using the menus or the P.Size button access the same Zoom control. My point was that even after zooming to the maximum, I still had a black border aroung the picture (it was smaller but could not be completely removed).

Using the menus or the P.Size button access the same Zoom control. My point was that even after zooming to the maximum, I still had a black border aroung the picture (it was smaller but could not be completely removed).

There are settings in teh service menu to adjust the picture size and position as well.

Using the menus or the P.Size button access the same Zoom control. My point was that even after zooming to the maximum, I still had a black border aroung the picture (it was smaller but could not be completely removed).

I never tried the P.Size button. But I was able to adjust the picture to the appropriate size. After switching back and fourth numerous times I've found component still has a more detailed picture. I've given up on VGA until M$ gives us some control via the 360.

I don't have a 360 and I'm not an expert but when I googled 360 VGA it said that the 360 doesn't really output 1080p w/VGA so that seems to be the issue here. I'm looking to get a game console since I never had one since Atari. lol. I wanted to be sure the issue was with the 360 and not the set.

There are settings in teh service menu to adjust the picture size and position as well.Hmmm... I know about the SM controls for position but have not found SM controls for size. Could you point out the location of the size controllers in the SM. Thanks.

So my HL-R6168W is starting to have this shadow on the left side. I dont know if its shadow or what, but it runs down the left side of the screen and there is this blue dividing line. Any info on what it is and how to get it fixed?

Does anyone know if the only settings you can change through a VGA input are Contrast and Brightness?

So my HL-R6168W is starting to have this shadow on the left side. I dont know if its shadow or what, but it runs down the left side of the screen and there is this blue dividing line. Any info on what it is and how to get it fixed?There have been tons of discussion about shadows along the sides but I don't remember whether on this thread or the HL-S thread. Anyway, the cure is a service call and light engine replacement.

I don't have a 360 and I'm not an expert but when I googled 360 VGA it said that the 360 doesn't really output 1080p w/VGA so that seems to be the issue here. I'm looking to get a game console since I never had one since Atari. lol. I wanted to be sure the issue was with the 360 and not the set.

It does output 1080P, with the latest update.

There have been tons of discussion about shadows along the sides but I don't remember whether on this thread or the HL-S thread. Anyway, the cure is a service call and light engine replacement.

Crap. Didnt samsung extend the warranty to 15 months? I better get on the phone w/ them.

Does anyone know if the only settings you can change through a VGA input are Contrast and Brightness?The VGA port takes an RGB signal. "Color" and "Tint" are not components of an RGB signal and thus the unavailability of these controls. As to what other controls are available, here is a bit of pure speculation... According to the schematics in the Service Manual, the VGA input feeds directly into the GM1601 chip which is the PC & Monitor Scaler. This avoids the ADV7400 chip which does the Video Decoding and the DNIe "chip" which contains the noise-filtering and PQ improvement algorithms. Thus I SUSPECT any controls directly related to DNIe are not available for the VGA port.

Doormat, you should first confirm your warranty date, either from your invoice or Samsung. After you have the date confirmed and you're still covered, you should call for service. Make sure they bring an LE with them and that they don't take the set in for service. The whole thing takes less than thirty minutes.

If you find out you're not under warranty you need to get an extended warranty. The catch is the set has to be in working order when you get an extended and you can't file a claim for service for thirty days. At least the shadow issue makes the set watchable although annoying.

You should consider extending your warranty knowing all of the issues with them. The LE part alone without labor is $1,200+, well worth the extended. TVA has a good plan and you might contact the place you bought the set.

The VGA port takes an RGB signal. "Color" and "Tint" are not components of an RGB signal and thus the unavailability of these controls. As to what other controls are available, here is a bit of pure speculation... According to the schematics in the Service Manual, the VGA input feeds directly into the GM1601 chip which is the PC & Monitor Scaler. This avoids the ADV7400 chip which does the Video Decoding and the DNIe "chip" which contains the noise-filtering and PQ improvement algorithms. Thus I SUSPECT any controls directly related to DNIe are not available for the VGA port.

good answer man. thanks a lot, that clears things up.

Matt

I have my 360 hooked via vga and the whole screen is filled after i went to the setting (not in the SM) in the menu to center the screen and then to stretch to fit just like on a pc monitor. Contrass and brightness are the only PQ controls you have. Bridgeboy clued me in on the brightness cranked to "retina burn". After i fixed the brightness and contrass the picture was beautiful and the tv reported 1920x1080 @60Hz.

You should consider extending your warranty knowing all of the issues with them. The LE part alone without labor is $1,200+, well worth the extended. TVA has a good plan and you might contact the place you bought the set.
I did buy the TVA extended warranty. I just didnt know to call Samsung or the warranty people from the TVA people.

Ok, I just called Samsung after putting up with the HDMI issue and forgetting to call them. I was on hold briefly and then transferred to tier two, who said I didn't need to be transferred since I was calling about a service call. They gave me the 400 number and transferred me to the service center. After about ten minutes with them we realized I was transferred to the wrong service center. I tried to figure that out when I was first connected but they wanted to get all of my info except my zip code. They said I had to call Samsung back, so I started over. I happened to speak with the same rep. I first spoke with and she transferred me to the local center, in RI.

These people are totally on top of their game and know the whole deal. They knew me and the rep who fixed the set last time. They also said how my HDMI issue was the Comsucks FW update issue. I was a little hesitant since it still didn't sound like that was definitely the issue. I also realized if I called Comsucks that the people I speak with will have no idea what I'm talking about or believe me for that matter.

I called Comsucks and I realized I really was calling Comsucks and had to remember their real name and dial it. lol. I don't know who I dialed by mistake but that would be funny to find out. lol.

It turns out the rep I spoke with said off the bat that he was familiar with the FW issue but he also said he didn't get too many calls on it. With that I started to pin him and he changed his tune. I was pissed knowing more about the issue and how many people this affects. He couldn't remember how many calls he had so I said was it five or fifty? There is a difference. He suggested the service call, a new STB and a refresh. I explained how if he was familiar with the issue that he should know that none of those will work.

He put me on hold for a minute and the more I thought of it the more I realized how Comsucks is continuing to issue the FW update knowing that there is an issue. That got me even more pissed. I asked him for Comsucks headquarters and he didn't have it which I'm sure is BS. He sent me to their site but I made him wait while I was going there and the redirect wasn't working, it was stuck in a loop. He then sent me to another link and that started to work but I wonder who actually reads this stuff?

I'm going to start to look into this some more and see what people are doing. I'm so ticked I feel like not paying for the STB. My friend has one too so that's two STBs on this account. I wonder if there is a formal complaint or something? Does anyone know how long ago they started issuing the FW update? When I have time I'll look into all of this.

The rep and I concluded that this issue only applies to HDTV customers, who use HDMI. I guess around Boston that is still a small number of customers. The rep asked if there was something else and I told him to let everyone know that this is a big issue and to have his fellow reps get ready for a lot of calls on this. People wonder why I call them Comsucks. lol. Now to find out whose number that belongs to. lol.

But wait, there's more. lol. Comsucks is a phone sex number. lol. That sounds a lot better to me since right now I feel like I'm getting screwed. lol.

I don't know if this has been covered already, but Samsung list the wrong part # for their DLP replacement bulb for the HL-R5688W.

The guy at Samsung Parts (J&J) spent a good 20 minutes verifying the part number since he said the one on the tv is invalid, (BP96-01074A). He sent me a BP96-01073A bulb. This is wrong. It's a square box-shaped housing. Mine is more of a triangle-shaped housing. You can see a pic of a similar bulb here: http://product.samsung.com/DLPlight/b/step7.htm

Another call and after another parts guy spent another 20 minutes checking and rechecking, found out that their (Samsungs) database is wrong. The correct part number is BP96-01415A. He had someone actually look at the part to verify it's the triangle-shaped housing.

I was going to wait until the old lamp failed (the first warning indicator lit up last Monday) but decided to go ahead and put the new one in. Good thing I didn't wait until failure and be stuck without a bulb, esp during weekend football.

One more thing. Have a vacuum handy as there was a ton of dust in there. I ended up removing the top panel and cleaned it out really well. I put some tape over the cable card slot as it was pulling in dust through there and through any unused connectors, such as the extra HDMI slot.

On a more positive note, I have over 5000 hours on this bulb and it still works:)

And it better not go out during *GASP* Monday Night Football.

St8kout, its amazing how some of these new issues just start popping up at the same time. lol. Someone just last week had the same lamp part number issue. He didn't mention how the three and four have different bases though? I thought he said the three fit but he still had a problem? His four was also working but had what I think is a ballast or power issue. Its great you found the right part number.

I don't think you should cover the CC slot or any other opening since the few openings there are can only help the air flow.

The way I look at it, if I had a cable card, the slot wouldn't be open anyway, so covering it up with tape should not make that much of a difference. I removed as much dust as I could without removing the lower panel, but there is still a lot in there and I didn't want it to be sucked up into the fan.

You almost need some kind of air filter on this thing, but in the real world the consumer would forget to change it and then the tv would probably overheat and shorten the bulb life and the consumer would complain and on and on it goes.

Okay, I spoke with our friends at Samsung today about the return of my shadow problem and got no help. It seemed like they were about to do an exchange after having the issue looked at by a repair center (at my expense) and then they realized I have an extended warranty and won't speak to me anymore. My rep (Todd) in the ERC told me it was now an extended warranty problem. The extended warranty company thinks it is a pre-existing condition and they should not cover it, so I am in limbo. I will say that the warranty company (Warrantech) has been really good about this and if I was them I would feel like I am being hosed on this deal also.

I even asked the ERC office (when they would still speak to me) if I could get the extended warranty transferred to a new set, would they proceed with the exchange and he said I would need to call them back. So I did and Warrantech said it would be no problem to transfer the warranty. When I called Samsung back, they would not transfer me to the ERC again. They told me it was the extended warranty companies problem and the issue must be handled by them.

I am going to call back tomorrow and ask for Todd's boss and see where that gets me. Not real happy that I spend $4k on a TV from them and they stop talking to me. I did call and confirm the 15 month warranty if it was registered online and so I was 15 months and 14 days from purchase and 15 months and 4 days from delivery when this problem occurred. Not real sure what is going to happen, but if Samsung blows me off, this is my last Samsung purchase.

Other than that, I have my eye on a nice Panasonic plasma at TVAuthority.com

st8kout, thanks for the info. I have a 5688 also and good info is always appreciated. You must have gotten thru to someone over at Samsung Parts because they now list the correct bulb when I used the DLP lamp search with our model number. Thanks again for your efforts in getting it corrected.

I asked this question earlier, is there a way through the SM to turn on the options for color tint or color control for the vga port. I know the vga port by passes the DNIe chip, I just want the basic color options to try to fine tune i pic on that input.

Errett, no way. Don't take any BS from Samsung. If I had to pick between a third party and the OEM I'd go with the OEM. Check your calendar again before you call Samsung back. The warranty starts on the date you received it, not paid for it.

Also, they should honor it since it is less than a week after the end of warranty regardless. That alone is ridiculous and really pisses me off. On top of that they know exactly how many LEs they've replaced and know there is an issue. What day of the week did you call them? I imagine it happened the day before or in my case a couple of weeks ago. lol. Just goes to show you how important it is to stay on top of this crap. lol.

It sounds like they are giving you a hard time. No one really gets to exchange or upgrade so I wouldn't expect or push for that or get pissed if you don't get that. One person was able to get that here but he went through hoops and had a real hard time. You should get the LE under their warranty and that way if there is a problem again they have or you have a record of it from them.

If all else fails I'd pull out the defect card, no not the race card. lol. The key is to stay pleasant and persistent. You just want a new LE, preferably from Samsung, under their warranty.

Shoot, I forgot to add how do you compare a plasma to a DLP? lol.

I don't really care if they exchange it or not, I want it fixed and I don't want it gone for a month again. If you count the month I did not have it, it should still be under warranty!

As for the plasma, I need a new TV in my office and we need a second HDTV for the house anyway. I know it sounds funny that I need it, but I work for a TV station and monitor our OTA signal a lot. Plus I want an HD set in my office so that if my wife is watching something in the living room, I can game in HD!! It may not end up being a plasma, I am going shopping tomorrow and will see what I find.

Bottomline is I am fed up with Samsung at this point and the way I have been treated. I will call back again tomorrow and make my case and at the end of the call they will either still have a customer or they will have lost a customer for good.

I just went through a bad customer service experience with a car dealership and I am not in the mood to put up with bad customer service again.

I read here earlier that Samsung will give you an extra 3 months warranty if you register your product. Mine's been registered since I bought it last November and I've never seen any info on this. Their website still says 12/12 parts and labor. Does this apply to all their tvs or maybe just the newer ones?

Errett, I hear ya. That really does suck. You should make sure you speak with the right people from the start. Insist on not going over this again with anyone but the right person. I don't know if the people you've already spoken with are really the best ones to deal with again? You might be better off with a fresh call. The rep. would probably look at the notes and go from there.

I would push not having the set for a month, the poor customer service you've received so far and the fact that you are well aware of the LE defect issue Samsung has. Four days after the warranty expired should get better results., especially after the month you lost. People shouldn't need to get an extended to cover a defective part and that is exactly what people have been doing.

Getting the plasma makes more sense now, lol, but I'd still take a 1080p LCD over a plasma. That's the second time I've said that today and I'm still shocked I said it. lol.

I've heard horror stories with other electronic companies, I think Samsung right now is one of the best. Sony is just awful. Make sure it takes a 1080p HDMI signal.

I read here earlier that Samsung will give you an extra 3 months warranty if you register your product. Mine's been registered since I bought it last November and I've never seen any info on this. Their website still says 12/12 parts and labor. Does this apply to all their tvs or maybe just the newer ones?

I spoke to them tonight about that and my HL-R6178W that was purchased last July qualified for the extra 3 months when it was registered online, so I would imagine your purchase from November would qualify.

You can call and ask at 800-SAMSUNG

E

st8kout, thanks for the info. I have a 5688 also and good info is always appreciated. You must have gotten thru to someone over at Samsung Parts because they now list the correct bulb when I used the DLP lamp search with our model number. Thanks again for your efforts in getting it corrected.

You're welcome. Lucky me, I'm the first one that needs this particular bulb from them (lol).

It was tempting to just pull the new bulb out of it's housing and put it in the old housing as it's the same bulb, but it would be just my luck the new bulb would be defective and not warranted if I tampered with it.

I would suggest writing this new number down for reference, but for all I know it could still be the wrong housing. I'll let everyone know if it's right when it comes in Thursday.

I have to wonder if anyone bought a spare bulb when they bought the tv, not knowing all this time that they have the wrong part.

It would be great if someone could find out where to buy JUST the Phillips bulb without the plastic housing. Imagine how much cheaper it would be. The bulb is held in with only 4 screws, plus two screws for the wire connectors.

It didn't occur to me to change the display settings to 1080 on my xbox 360 until I read it here. Only problem is it seemed to slow down the frame rate. I have not played for a month or so and now I'm dizzy from playing just a short while. I don't remember it being that 'jumpy.'

I have never noticed any lag time using the VGA cable like some have reported, but then again maybe that's why I can never advance above level 16 on Halo 2.

I read here earlier that Samsung will give you an extra 3 months warranty if you register your product. Mine's been registered since I bought it last November and I've never seen any info on this. Their website still says 12/12 parts and labor. Does this apply to all their tvs or maybe just the newer ones?

I spoke to them tonight about that and my HL-R6178W that was purchased last July qualified for the extra 3 months when it was registered online, so I would imagine your purchase from November would qualify.

You can call and ask at 800-SAMSUNG

E

I was able to get Samsung to extend my warranty by faxing them a copy of my purchase invoice. That invoice was dated September 2005, although I didn't take delivery until 2nd week in October. However, they forgot to attach this invoice to my "Voice of the Customer" case number, so in essence they haven't looked into my complaints yet. However, the handling of the original problem incident has gone smooth, and in fact the service center called me on the day I reported the problem to schedule me for a LE replacement. Thus far I've held off until I find out if my complaint will be addressed, as the shadow is still quite small and I don't want to incur the expense of a post-LE replacement ISF tune-up unnecessarily.

I don't really care if they exchange it or not, I want it fixed and I don't want it gone for a month again. If you count the month I did not have it, it should still be under warranty!

As for the plasma, I need a new TV in my office and we need a second HDTV for the house anyway. I know it sounds funny that I need it, but I work for a TV station and monitor our OTA signal a lot. Plus I want an HD set in my office so that if my wife is watching something in the living room, I can game in HD!! It may not end up being a plasma, I am going shopping tomorrow and will see what I find.

Bottomline is I am fed up with Samsung at this point and the way I have been treated. I will call back again tomorrow and make my case and at the end of the call they will either still have a customer or they will have lost a customer for good.

I just went through a bad customer service experience with a car dealership and I am not in the mood to put up with bad customer service again.


I have had nothing but bad experiences with Samsung's customer servcie as well. At this point I'd like nothing better than to be rid of this POS and Samsung forever. This seems to be an endemic problem, a lucky few have had success with their customer service but that is very rare. This does not appear to confined to their TV's either but all Samsung products.

Well, I just got off the phone with Samsung regarding the left side shadow. This was my first call to them and was pretty happy with how it was handled....so far. Explained to the sevice tech the problem, being sure to mention probable light engine issue a couple of times. He put me on hold for a couple of minutes while he contacted a local FE, and when he came back he had the local repair shop on line as well (Associated Electronics in Milwaukee). The repair shop requested the lamp code # and version #, which I didn't have on me since I called from work. Calling them back tonight...hopefully this works out. Every one involved was very friendly and the call only took about 10 minutes. A little nervous about this Associated Electronics company though...BBB report isn't so great, and have read some complaints about them here on AVS. Hopefully they know what they're doing. :confused:

Hey everyone,

For those of you who have calibrated your sets (or had them calibrated), did you find a significant difference before and after? Right now I have a 5078 and use the PC input (its easier and the only input that supports 1080p when HD-DVD or Blueray become common),

I'm able to get the brightness set ok, but the colour accuracy doesn't seem to work. Right now I've just used some test patterns on my PC (Adobe, NVIDIA) and adjusting the gamma makes it much too red and dark.

Has anyone used the AVIA or DVE test disc with good success?

Thanks,

-P-

Grond, what issues exactly have you had with Samsung? They are one of the best in customer service afaik. Only a few people here, who are not anywhere near a metro area have had most of the problems and that still isn't everyone. Who are you comparing them to that you had better experience with? Sony is awful. I imagine you might be in the Zone by being in SC? What parts did you have issues with?

Oldno7, hope is for church. lol. Right off the bat there is no reason to need the lamp code number and version number. Make sure they bring a new LE with them or don't bother. Make sure they don't even think about taking the set with them. Already its a bad sign that they might not know what they're doing.

The good news is the LE slides right out and is easy to install. You can search here about copying the settings over in the SM that they might not know about doing to be sure everything is right before they leave. Also I'd test a few channels for a few minutes before you sign anything.

Grond, what issues exactly have you had with Samsung? They are one of the best in customer service afaik. Only a few people here, who are not anywhere near a metro area have had most of the problems and that still isn't everyone. Who are you comparing them to that you had better experience with? Sony is awful. I imagine you might be in the Zone by being in SC? What parts did you have issues with?

I'm in Richmond Virginia now. A BIG part of the problem is Virginia Electronics, which is the Samsung authorized center in this area. Not only is my TV not fixed but it is far worse than when they started and now they refuse to fix it. The first tech gets lost and shows up 3 hours late. Amazingly he appears to be totally unfamiliar with the HLS model. He tries to fix my broken buttons by replacing the logic unit which has no effect. After a phon3call he unplugs the button unit which at least allowed the remote to work, and tells me he will order a new button unit. A week later Virginia Electronics calls at 8am 1 hour before my appointment and changes it to 4-6. At 7:30 the tech finally shows up and begins disassembling my TV so he can change the button unit. Instead of taking the screen completely off he leaves the bottom attached and bends the screen so he can reach inside to switch the buttons unit. The buttons still won't work. He pries it open again and starts looking at the wires and they are misplaced and being pinched by the case. Me puts them where they are suppose to be and now the butons work. He says its fixed at which point I say shouldn't the wirse be replaced if its damaged. He says it will be fine now because the wire isn't being pinched anymore. Apparently electrical wire is like a garden hose, if you squeeze it electricity won't flow through it anymore. He then puts everything back together after which I tell him something doesn't look right. He checks my settings and tells me my problem is the contrast isn't on 90 like it should be. The next day when watching some 4:3 material I see a huge warp at the bottom of the screen. It literally curves 1/2 inch at the bottom third of the screen. I tell Samsung who sends Virginia Electronics back out there and the tech says all DLP's are like that. I have since checked several DLP'st Best Buy and Circuit City in 4:3 and the bowing is imperceptible. Only by looking extremely carefully can you notice the tiniest bit of curve. I have told Samsung about the situation and all they said was that Virgina Electronics said it is fixed. I emailed them pictures of it and have gotten no response back. At this point it is hard to imagine how their customer service could possibly be any worse.

Grond, ok, I hear ya. That does suck and once again, like others here it is the lack of proper training the techs on Samsung's end. I agree that Samsung is the one who sent them and should be responsible for any issues.

The problem is that's not the way it works. You do have a valid issue with that service company. If it was me I would have gone off. lol. If you are in that situation again you should take pictures if possible and you need to make a note on the invoice about anything that's wrong before you sign and they leave. You should call the service company again about your issue.

I'm still not clear as to what your issue is? It sounds like everything is fixed but now you have the ) ( issue. That is a not an issue for SD or 4:3 video. That is caused from the projection and isn't noticeable with HD. I don't know why you didn't notice it before? It can vary from hardly noticeable to clear as day. I don't know why it varies in size but it is considered normal and not an issue.

If the set isn't damaged, the original issue has been fixed and you have a different issue besides the bowing then you would probably be better off with a new service call for a new issue. I understand your frustration but the best way to handle these people when you have a problem is to be pleasant and persistent. You don't want to piss anyone off but you don't want to take any BS either. That should get you the results you want.

I don't agree with you about Samsung. I think your issue is with the lousy service rep. they sent though. If you don't think your service has been taken care of, that is you have the same issue, which I'm not so sure you do, then you should call the company back and tell them to return or you're filing a complaint both locally and with Samsung. I'm sure you're not the only one who had an issue with that company.

Unfortunately Samsung has lost me as a customer. I called back and spoke with them today and had no luck. They will not let me speak to anyone higher than the person that answers the phone (the supervisor says the ECR has ruled and I cannot speak with them, even though I was told to call back after speaking to my warranty company). This is especially disappointing to me since I have sold 5 of these sets for them through recommendations. I have now advised the guys who bought them to steer clear in the future.

The problem I have with Samsung is that they were ready to do the right thing and when they found out I had purchased an extended warranty they would no longer speak to me. That was all the guy could say on the phone today, "Well, we just don't want to void your extended warranty." BS, you saw a way out and took it and that is poor customer service. I asked about the history of problems with these sets and was told they don't have the ability to search history. So I asked the rep to go home and look it up on the internet tonight and see if he still felt okay with the way I was being treated.

They seem to feel that 3 light engines in 15 months is acceptable. I find it excessive especially when I was without the set for a month to have the 3rd light engine and DMD board installed.

I did go shopping for a new set today and was looking at a Panasonic plasma and the kid said, "Why are you looking at that, have you seen the Samsung DLP?" to which I responded, "You mention the S word again and I am gone." I think I may go ahead and get the Panasonic, the price has dropped and the picture is very good. It is a 720p and will be in my office for gaming almost exclusively.

I hate it for Warrantech that they are going to be stuck fixing this thing for the next 4 years, but I am happy I bought the extended warranty. At the rate I am burning through light engines, I will never have to replace a lamp!

I loved this TV from the moment I purchased it in the Powerbuy from TV Authority, but Samsung has run me off and I refuse to return out of principal.

Good luck guys, I hope they treat you better than they treated me.

Errett, I know what you mean but you do have the extended. If you didn't have that then I'd offer to call them myself and take care of it. Maybe someone will file with the ftc or something when people are complaining when they're out of warranty. I made out like a bandit with my Sony extended for my cams. That paid for itself several times over.

Yeah I feel bad that they have to eat the cost of what Samsung should have fixed but that's about it. I don't think it makes sense to avoid Samsung, unless you do find a better set overall that Samsung can't match. I wouldn't take it so personally, its business. Go get the best set you can find that fits your needs and if its another Samsung, so be it. Just get the extended though. lol.

Oh, and just to add since you're just about finished with them and they won't be fixing your set you should call them back and throw in the defect and filing a complaint card. That'll show them.

It's just like Comsucks and probably others. With the Internet now people are in touch with the same issues. That can only be a bad thing for them. lol.

Errett - sorry to hear about your bad experience in trying to get this resolved. I too purchased an extended warranty, but I did not tell Samsung that and I was fortunate that they did not hassle me about extending the original warranty for another few months.

I haven't had the chance to read all your postings on this issue, but are you saying that if you were still under the Samsung warranty that they sounded willing to swapout your set? This is my ultimate goal as well, as the thought of having to replace the LE every 6 months and then pay for an ISF tune-up on top of that is more than I would be willing to bear. I guess others here have claimed that Samsung may have fixed the shadow issue with the later versions of the LE...anyone know if that's really true? For me, I get about 700 hours on one and then boom...shadow appears.

I have my 360 hooked via vga and the whole screen is filled after i went to the setting (not in the SM) in the menu to center the screen and then to stretch to fit just like on a pc monitor. Contrass and brightness are the only PQ controls you have. Bridgeboy clued me in on the brightness cranked to "retina burn". After i fixed the brightness and contrass the picture was beautiful and the tv reported 1920x1080 @60Hz.


Just hooked up my xbox 360 HD-DVD via VGA last night. Watched parts of King Kong and the picture was pretty freakin' sweet. Tried switching "Cars" from my denon dvd player and the HD-DVD - that movie looks great on both - seems a bit darker on the dvd player, even when on same "standard" picture setting on tv.

Question - how do you find the display that showed "1920x1080@60Hz? I played around in menu and couldn't find....

Errett - sorry to hear about your bad experience in trying to get this resolved. I too purchased an extended warranty, but I did not tell Samsung that and I was fortunate that they did not hassle me about extending the original warranty for another few months.

I haven't had the chance to read all your postings on this issue, but are you saying that if you were still under the Samsung warranty that they sounded willing to swapout your set? This is my ultimate goal as well, as the thought of having to replace the LE every 6 months and then pay for an ISF tune-up on top of that is more than I would be willing to bear. I guess others here have claimed that Samsung may have fixed the shadow issue with the later versions of the LE...anyone know if that's really true? For me, I get about 700 hours on one and then boom...shadow appears.

Bob...

The last time my set was in the shop it came within about 2 days of Samsung replacing it. This time the ECR rep was putting me on hold to call and schedule the service rep to come out and verify the set was acting up again when he noticed that on my invoice I had the extended warranty. That is what stopped the process. I was literally to the point of an exchange and they stopped talking to me.

Hopefully yours will sail through with no trouble and you can get it replaced. I was going to ask them about paying some extra and moving to the 71" as we now feel the 61" seems a little small.

Grond, ok, I hear ya. That does suck and once again, like others here it is the lack of proper training the techs on Samsung's end. I agree that Samsung is the one who sent them and should be responsible for any issues.

The problem is that's not the way it works. You do have a valid issue with that service company. If it was me I would have gone off. lol. If you are in that situation again you should take pictures if possible and you need to make a note on the invoice about anything that's wrong before you sign and they leave. You should call the service company again about your issue.

I'm still not clear as to what your issue is? It sounds like everything is fixed but now you have the ) ( issue. That is a not an issue for SD or 4:3 video. That is caused from the projection and isn't noticeable with HD. I don't know why you didn't notice it before? It can vary from hardly noticeable to clear as day. I don't know why it varies in size but it is considered normal and not an issue.

If the set isn't damaged, the original issue has been fixed and you have a different issue besides the bowing then you would probably be better off with a new service call for a new issue. I understand your frustration but the best way to handle these people when you have a problem is to be pleasant and persistent. You don't want to piss anyone off but you don't want to take any BS either. That should get you the results you want.

I don't agree with you about Samsung. I think your issue is with the lousy service rep. they sent though. If you don't think your service has been taken care of, that is you have the same issue, which I'm not so sure you do, then you should call the company back and tell them to return or you're filing a complaint both locally and with Samsung. I'm sure you're not the only one who had an issue with that company.

I have informed Samsung of the incompetence at Virginia Electronics but they refuse to send someone from a different repair center. Any bowing that we had on our DLP was unnoticeable before since the majority of our viewing has been 4:3 while we wait for DirectTV to finally show up with our new box.

I don't know if this has been covered already, but Samsung list the wrong part # for their DLP replacement bulb for the HL-R5688W.

The guy at Samsung Parts (J&J) spent a good 20 minutes verifying the part number since he said the one on the tv is invalid, (BP96-01074A). He sent me a BP96-01073A bulb. This is wrong. It's a square box-shaped housing. Mine is more of a triangle-shaped housing. You can see a pic of a similar bulb here: http://product.samsung.com/DLPlight/b/step7.htm

Another call and after another parts guy spent another 20 minutes checking and rechecking, found out that their (Samsungs) database is wrong. The correct part number is BP96-01415A. He had someone actually look at the part to verify it's the triangle-shaped housing.

I was going to wait until the old lamp failed (the first warning indicator lit up last Monday) but decided to go ahead and put the new one in. Good thing I didn't wait until failure and be stuck without a bulb, esp during weekend football.

One more thing. Have a vacuum handy as there was a ton of dust in there. I ended up removing the top panel and cleaned it out really well. I put some tape over the cable card slot as it was pulling in dust through there and through any unused connectors, such as the extra HDMI slot.

On a more positive note, I have over 5000 hours on this bulb and it still works:)

And it better not go out during *GASP* Monday Night Football.


I recently had a LE replaced in my 6768. Which cured my problem and resulted in a better picture than when I first got the set.

However, I was in the SM the other day and noticed that the bulb was 120 watts not the 132 watt bulb in my original LE.

The sets pretty bright alright, but I am wondering if this should be corrected?

Bob...

The last time my set was in the shop it came within about 2 days of Samsung replacing it. This time the ECR rep was putting me on hold to call and schedule the service rep to come out and verify the set was acting up again when he noticed that on my invoice I had the extended warranty. That is what stopped the process. I was literally to the point of an exchange and they stopped talking to me.

Hopefully yours will sail through with no trouble and you can get it replaced. I was going to ask them about paying some extra and moving to the 71" as we now feel the 61" seems a little small.

Errett:

I wanted to suggest that you might want to write a letter to the North American CEO of Samsung outlining all your problems with the TV and the Cust. Serv. Dept. When you call the Customer Service departments they are like a line of defense set up to discourage us from seeking further help.

I have in the past had problems with items from Panasonic and Sony which were initially rejected by their Customer Service departments. And the problems were similar to yours in that they exceeded normal acceptance levels for a customer or were known defects which the companies chose to ignore (like your light tunnel/engine defect).

After writing certified snail mail letters, with return requested to the CEO/Pres/VP, whatever they call the North American main person, I got what I wanted as my requests were reasonable as yours seem to be. It will take persistance, but you can get better results by going this route once you have exhaused all other means, as you certainly have. Good luck.

In the interest of fairness I wanted too add that Samsung has FINALLY agreed to replace my TV after 42 days of blood, sweat and tears. :) Inspired by this thread I decided to give it one last shot and apparently the person in Exexcutive Customer Service that had been handling my case had gone on extended emergency leave and nobody took over her cases. I'll be keeping my fingers and toes crossed that this TV doesn't have any problems; if it does I'll be making any effort necessary to make sure that somebody other than Virginia Electronics fixes it.

Grond, sounds great! If you think I helped at all just get me something big and expensive for Christmas. lol. I know others who had trouble were able to get Samsung involved and they sent their own regional team or something over, so I know its possible. Seems like things have to be really bad for them to lift a finger though and that's not right. Oh, btw I said SC since that's what your location says? I'm probably missing something. lol

I just hooked up my HD DVD player to my Xbox 360 connected to my 61" HLR via VGA. It looks very good and the picture geometry is spot on. I'm glad I had that input calibrated when my set was done. If you own an Xbox 360 it is worth the $200 for the drive and have Netflix deliver you HD DVDs. Set up couldn't have been easier.

I picked up the HD DVD add on yesterday for my Sammy.
Video looks razor sharp connected 1080p VGA.
I also own the Toshiba HD DVD player.
I'll need more time with it but the picture looks a slight bit better on the Xbox. More sharp, more filmlike, less digital but a little too bright (which can be adjusted).
The Tosh's colors look better but via HDMI, there seems to be a more digital feel (which is probably all the extra picture adjustments you can do via that input and Dnei).

Sadly, the Tosh wipes the floor with the Xbox in the audio department.
Microsoft decided to downgrade everything to a 640 Dolby Digital rate.
With the Tosh, I have full analog out and without that, they dowgrade to a much healthier 1.5 DTS track.

Hi guys,

I am looking for some advice in regards to my purchase of a Samsung DLP. I have skimmed the HL-S threads for some time now, and done my homework pretty good, but could always use some more input.

I was all set to purchase a HL-S6187 very soon, and in the end after tax, a stand, and 3 year extended warranty, I would have spent about the same amount as 2,650 Wendy's value menu cheeseburgers :)

I normally wouldn't have thought about buying a 'used' set, however, I came across another home theater enthusiast who has a pretty killer deal being offered to me (same cost as only 1,500 Wendy's value menu cheeseburgers !!!). He has a HL-R5668 set that he bought in March '06 when he moved into his new house. The set is pristine (I'd basically call it nearly new to be honest), has never been moved since delivery, has the Samsung stand, double the factory warranty due to purchase with an AMEX card, has original receipt and paperwork. Bought it from ButterFly Photo, who seems to be a reputable and authorized Samsung dealer. Since it's still under factory warranty, I'd be able to buy an additional extended warranty on the set, which is a huge concern to me. I have gone and viewed the set in both HD and SD, and even hooked up my HTPC to it and ran some test patterns and HD movies. Everything checks out quite nicely, and this seems like a great way for me to get a fantastic set and price. The gentleman was able to answer all my questions and concerns, and is only selling the set to move up to a 61" Samsung actually, as he is going to be having a custom cabinet built for his home theater, and wants the bigger set to sit flush with the measurements in a particular area of the home.

The price difference is very large, and I'd be able to save a big chunk of change, as you can see. That is large concern to me right now. I haven't had a chance yet to read up on the HL-R sets, so I'm hoping people will be able to give me feedback, and I'd like to hear what YOU would do if you were in this situation. Also, I am planning to have set calibrated early next year.

1. Am I losing any "real world" picture quality by going with an HL-R vs an HL-S ? My sources will mostly be Cox Cable HD, and a HTPC for DVD playback.

2. Is the color wheel different from the HL-S one, in amount of color segments or RPMs ?

3. Since I am interested in using the set as a HTPC a fair amount of the time, can the HL-R do 1x1 pixel mapping like the HL-S series can ? Can under/over scan be defeated ? If not, can I still use "PowerStrip" to make a custom resolution and have 1x1 mapping on the HL-R series ? Today I hooked my HTPC up to it via the VGA input, and it had underscan, but still looked pretty decent. I tried hitting the P.Zoom button, but it wouldn't let me change anything, except going to 4:3 mode instead of Wide. I wasn't able to zoom the picture and fill the screen.

Thanks so much for reading. Please give me your comments - I need some guidance :o

Well, I'm still waiting for my replacement part from Samsung Parts (J&J). Why on earth do they use these fly-by-night delivery companies like DHL? They're not any cheaper than USPS or even UPS.

When I called J&J to find out why I have not received my 2-day package they shipped Monday, they said DHL attempted delivery this morning at 10AM. I call BS on that as I've been home all day and no one came here, nor is there a note on the door. DHL's tracking shows they actually got the package to my city yesterday, but I still don't have it. I'm thinking the delivery guy forgot me and is trying to cover his posterior by saying he attempted delivery.

St8kout, I've found when "other" delivery people deliver for the first time they tend to get lost. You should watch it on the Internet and I would call them again and complain. If it shows attempted I guess you're screwed until tomorrow. I know UPS can deliver until around seven, you might find out what the latest time delivery time is for them.

Jhoweth, I don't know anything about the HLS. I know some here do. My big issue is with the Samsung warranty. I don't think its transferable, and Amex might not be either, or probably not. I know some extendeds are. I would call Samsung or check their site and check the warranty paperwork that came with the set. I'm not sure if it has to say whether it is or is not transferable though? I know the extendeds say it is transferable.

There have been issues with these sets and I don't know if the HLSs have the same or other issues or fewer? If you get the set you will need a valid warranty from someone to CYA. The LE alone is $1,200+ plus labor, well worth the cost of coverage.

What a week this has been. I went through all this hassle finding the correct bulb for my HL-R5688W after being sent the wrong one thanks to Samsung's faulty database. The correct one is due here tomorrow instead of today because the delivery guy didn't come by like he was supposed to. I'm currently charged $448 for two bulbs until they receive the wrong one back, and after all this time, I come to find out that the bulb is covered under Samsung's one-year warranty, which expires on 11/20/06. D'oh!!!

Only problem is, will they cover it after my already buying it, and with the old one still working even after the first bulb-indicator light lit up Monday before last? Do I normally have to wait until it fails completely to be covered? I'm guessing they would want a burned out bulb as proof.

st8kout, I think its an honest mistake. I don't know but I'm guessing they're betting the bulb will burn out after a year so you'd be on your own anyway, unless you had an extended, which covered the lamp. Not all extendeds cover the lamp.

It's a good point though, are we supposed to sit here with a dead set while we wait for some of these ding dongs to order a lamp, or make a service call? That does sound ridiculous. I guess it depends how much the wait is costing you per hour. lol.

I'm guessing since the lamp is in the parts dept. that they aren't connected to the service dept. or have a reason to check, if they were connected. I think you can buy any part you want and that doesn't mean your warranty is void. Those are two different issues.

You might call Samsung and ask what their take is on the lamp replacement, since you have the first LED lit up. Is there any other reason that LED could light up or is it only for the 1/3 lamp mark?

You might consider refusing the DHL package so they return it on them, its insured, tracked and already packaged. Ding, ding, ding. lol.

Well, it looks like I am in a similar boat without a paddle as a few people here. About 4 weeks ago, I noticed a 2 inch shadow down the left side of my 5668. I pre-ordered (TVA) it last year with the extended warranty. I contacted Warrentech and the nightmare began.

I explained the problem and they tell me that they don't have a contract with a local repair shop. I have to call Samsung and get the number of certified repair shops in my area and have them repair the set and pay out of my pocket. Then I can submit the receipts for reimburesment.

But, before any repair can be done, I need to get approval of Warrentech. So, I call the local shop, they come to the house ($200), look at the set and say they need to take it back to the shop to do diagnostics. They call me back a day later and say the LE needs to be replaced, it's another $1500. I call Warrentech back and give them the numbers for approval of the repair and tell me that they have to check with there tech dept. to see if they agree with the repair. That takes 3 or 4 days to process (after numerous calls daily).

The tech dept. comes back with yes, that is the solution to the problem, but didn't like the price I was being charged for the part. They will order the part and have it shipped to the repair shop, but there is a $300 core charge if I don't send back the broken part within 30 days on my dime. They tell me that they will call me back in a couple ofdays with the RMA information. Well, about 10 days later, the part is expected to arrive today. I finally got a tracking number this morning. Still no RMA information. Called them a little while ago and they said the RMA information should be in the box with the new part.

This whole process started on 10-30-06. Starting on the 4th week of no set. Thank god for my 42" plasma. Sounds like this shadow problem is going to be a recurring one. I do not look forward to going through this every 9 to 12 months.

I suggest that anyone looking at these sets and the Warrentech Repair Master warranty, check to see if they have a contract with a local shop first. It would eliminate literally hours of being on the phone trying to get approvals for what looks like a simple problem to fix.

I'm not really sure what I will do with my next TV purchase, but Samsung and WarrantyTech have lost a lot of points in my book.

Finally got the correct bulb. Here's some pics for future reference when it's your turn.

J&J parts guy, "Are you sure it's the wrong part?"

Me, "Yeah, it's pretty obvious."

J&J parts guy, "Well, did you try to work it in place? Sometimes you have to work at getting it in."

Me, as nicely as possible, "Does the phrase, 'Square peg in a round hole' mean anything?"

The first pic is the wrong bulb. The second pic is the right one for an HL-R5688W:
http://members.roadfly.com/postal-guy/Picture 091a.jpg

http://members.roadfly.com/postal-guy/Picture 094a.jpg

Dreamr, that does suck and that isn't one of the features I saw listed when I ran out and bought their extended. lol. I know they do need to swap the parts so that isn't really an issue that's different. The out of pocket issue isn't right since most people can't afford the cost of the LE and why should it go on a credit card with interest?

To be as clear as possible for everyone here, no service center or tech. is to remove the set. Period. Any diagnosis and repair is to be done in your home or other location. Taking the set is the fault of the service center, not Samsung or WT. I would have stopped them. What's the name of the center?

I'm a little confused since you posted eighteen days and four weeks?

In this case you didn't want them to bring an LE with them but in other instances I would have demanded it so it doesn't waste your time. The shipping delay and all of that is standard, not much you can do.

I guess I wonder where in the process took eighteen days, that does sound long knowing how there were only a few steps involved?

Again, I guess I hold Samsung responsible for the lack of training the service centers but it really is the service center's fault you should have an issue with, not Samsung, at least directly. I still don't know of anyone who has better customer service than Samsung?

St8kout, I see a lamp and lamp housing. It seems you have to buy the housing with the lamp already installed and then that housing goes in the cage or whatever in the set is that right?

Isn't it possible to just buy the lamp and install it in the housing? Its not like the lamp and housing are made together and made only for Samsung, I mean the housing is probably made for Samsung but the lamps must be somewhat standard or easy to find? Someone puts the lamp in the housing.

I guess I see why its so expensive since you have to buy the housing each time but that is ridiculous.

Well, it looks like I am in a similar boat without a paddle as a few people here. About 4 weeks ago, I noticed a 2 inch shadow down the left side of my 5668. I pre-ordered (TVA) it last year with the extended warranty. I contacted Warrentech and the nightmare began.

I'm not really sure what I will do with my next TV purchase, but Samsung and WarrantyTech have lost a lot of points in my book.

I sure hope I don't get a visit from the shadow monster. Except for getting the wrong bulb from Samsung parts, my experience has been pretty good and I still recommend Samsung DLPs to all my friends, esp since it has such a huge (56") outstanding picture for a third of the price of a large plasma.

That does sound like a crappy deal you got from Warrentech. It seems all extended warranty companies fall short when it comes time to collect. The company for my BMW fussed so much about every single repair that the dealer told me they would no longer speak to them, that from now on I would have to pay for the repairs up front and file for reimbursement from the warranty company on my own. The warranty company even held up one repair for 4 days so they could fly someone to the dealer here and see for themselves that the repair was really needed, (it was a leaky oil pan gasket). I guess they thought I was in cahoots with the dealer and enjoyed having my car tied up in the shop while I had to pay for a crappy rental car instead of driving my BMW. Go figure.

dreamer,
Thanks for the post on your experience with Repairmaster (Warrantech). I also live in a rural area, which is away from any service centers. I have the 4 year Repairmaster extended warrantee for my HLR and I was about to purchase a Repairmaster extended warrantee for a two month old plasma. I am now having second thoughts.

St8kout, I see a lamp and lamp housing. It seems you have to buy the housing with the lamp already installed and then that housing goes in the cage or whatever in the set is that right?

Isn't it possible to just buy the lamp and install it in the housing? Its not like the lamp and housing are made together and made only for Samsung, I mean the housing is probably made for Samsung but the lamps must be somewhat standard or easy to find? Someone puts the lamp in the housing.

I guess I see why its so expensive since you have to buy the housing each time but that is ridiculous.

Yeah, I mentioned that a few days ago. Does anyone know where we can buy just the bulb? It's probably less than half the price. It's just four screws holding it in, plus two screws for the wiring to the bulb.

Google failed to come up with Phillips bulb number 101521732.

I was very tempted to swap bulbs on my own but that would have voided the warranty, and it would be just my luck that the new bulb would be defective.

Does anyone know where we can buy just the bulb? It's probably less than half the price.

When I'm searching for hard to find lamps I use Specialty Bulbs. You can start with this page and poke around:

http://specialtybulb.thomasnet.com/advanced/bulb-styles-projection-lamps?&plpver=1001

Having the lamp in your hand you'll have more indicators on what to look for. Let us know if you have any luck. Nothing comes up there with the part no. but a little more investigative search might net something.

I can't think of the name but there are places that only sell lamps like the one mentioned above. I don't think there could be more than what, ten kinds of DLP lamps? Someone must have it.

The problem started the weekend before Halloween, I called the warranty company and then Samsung on Monday and had the local tech company at my house on Tuesday. They took the set and got me the numbers that WarrantyTech wanted before they would approve the repair. (Part Name, Part Price, Part Number, Laber Fee, Trip Fee, Diagnostic Fee) on Wednesday. I called WarrentyTech with the numbers and awaited a return call for approval.

When I finally contacted them the following week, I was told that they had to send the information to their Tech Dept. to approve the repair. That took a few days. Finally, I called them at the end of the week and they said that they would be shipping the LE to the repair shop. I called them a few more times between then and now, and I finally got a Tracking number this morning. When I looked it up, I saw that it shipped on the 14th and was scheduled to arrive today.

It's been a little over 3 weeks since the problem started, and about 3 weeks since my first contact with Warrantech. So I am starting the 4th week since I noticed the problem. It feels like a 4 months.

I thought that was the policy that all repairs are to be done on site but, my concern was that if I didn't let them take the set, that I would be stuck paying the $200 Trip Fee and would then have to find another certified repair shop and pay them to come out. But I didn't ask either, and that is my fault.

The name of the repair center is Audio Metrics. They have been awesome to work with. They have defintely gone above and beyond to try to make this go as quickly as possible. They themselves were contacted by the Warrantech Techs to dicuss the repair. I would think that if they are a certified Samsung repair shop whose contact information I was given by Samsung directly, then they should be trusted to diagnose and repair the set.

I think the thing that bothers me most is that WarrantTech never contacted me when they said they would. I had to continously contact them to keep the ball rolling. But then I guess why should they, they already have my money...

I can't think of the name but there are places that only sell lamps like the one mentioned above. I don't think there could be more than what, ten kinds of DLP lamps? Someone must have it.

Here's the best I can do for a close up pic of the bulb markings.
It reads:

TOP ?65 H5
UHP 120/132W 1.0
PHILIPS
MADE IN BELGIUM
101521732
Hg

http://members.roadfly.com/postal-guy/bulb1.jpg

Followup:

I did get a google hit when I used "UHP 120/132W 1.0"
There's a guy on ebay who will exhange your housing for another one with a new bulb, but he's using the wrong housing for mine. There's also a German site but even translated it doesn't show much.

Please excuse me if this has been answered before, but with 350 pages, it would take longer to read through everything than to just ask again... My question is that when I first bought the TV (sometime in March, I think), I was under the assumption that this TV displayed in 1080p, but didn't actually accept a 1080p signal. After looking through the manual, however, it reads like the TV actually accepts a 1080p signal after all:

From the manual: "You can watch TV in a better visual quality when the input signal resolution is 1080p." Also in answer to the question about viewing the TV in 1080p, it says "the best visual quality is supported for 1080p input signal" and tells you to hook it up to a PC. :confused:

So who is right, me or the manual? :)
By the way, it's an HL-R5078W

Thanks for the help, and sorry if this has been posted before!!!

1080p is via VGA. You could also try the search feature on the top, below the page numbers.

Here's the best I can do for a close up pic of the bulb markings.
It reads:

TOP ?65 H5
UHP 120/132W 1.0
PHILIPS
MADE IN BELGIUM
101521732
Hg

http://members.roadfly.com/postal-guy/bulb1.jpg

Followup:

I did get a google hit when I used "UHP 120/132W 1.0"
There's a guy on ebay who will exhange your housing for another one with a new bulb, but he's using the wrong housing for mine. There's also a German site but even translated it doesn't show much.


Is this bulb the same for all Sammys? I have the HL6768 and after a LE exchange the new sm says 120W while the old LE showed 132 W. Is the wattage setting adjustable?

Halco, I wouldn't assume anything, so I'd check your manual but I would guess the HLRs are the same? The lamp pic above shows 120/132w like you said but I don't know if its the same lamp. The wattage is based on the set and I don't think that is adjustable besides brightness and so on.

In the interest of fairness I wanted too add that Samsung has FINALLY agreed to replace my TV after 42 days of blood, sweat and tears. :) Inspired by this thread I decided to give it one last shot and apparently the person in Exexcutive Customer Service that had been handling my case had gone on extended emergency leave and nobody took over her cases. I'll be keeping my fingers and toes crossed that this TV doesn't have any problems; if it does I'll be making any effort necessary to make sure that somebody other than Virginia Electronics fixes it.

My TV was bought in November of 2005. The first service call was in January of 2006. After 3 visits by the local TV repair shop, and a week of no TV (at the repair shop), and no less than 10 phone calls to Samsung, it is finally being replaced by Samsung.

To others who have issues: Be nice but firm. Have your facts straight and KEEP A LOG OF EVERYTHING...and be patient.

Oh, and go with the LCD replacement option. ;)

Calling all experts: Which would produce the best picture quality on a 6168?
Toshiba HD DVD outputting 1080i.
Or the better model outputting 1080p.
Or a X-Box HD DVD through VGA?
Thanx.

Well the 6168 won't take a 1080P signal through the HDMI port so that won't do you any good.

The VGA port seems to have it's share of issues right now with coloration. Do-able, but ya gotta jump through hoops. I'm using VGA to watch OTA HD right now. It looks good but no better than the 6168s internal tuner.

Toshiba HD-DVD works right out of the box. Pic looks dam good and you end up with 1080P anyway. I have the HD-A1 and I'm happy with it. One word of advice. If you get one, upgrade the firmware through ethernet or official Toshiba CD for the least amount of trouble. All the problems with the remote reported by other folks I avoided by using my Harmony 880.

I don't think this has been addressed recently but the HD movies won't play 1080 via VGA if they have the HDCP that they are supposed to, right? Has anyone following the game consoles followed this?

I'm having a problem with my HLR6168 that I had several weeks ago. The set shuts down. The internal fan goes off immediately.

Previously, I had Samsung tech replace the bulb (1322 hours on it) along with the balset.

Everything appeared to be ok for the interveining weeks until early last week when the set did the same thing. Today, the set shut off...the fan stopped immediately. I turned the set back on and, again, it shut off.

There was no LED indication on the front of the set that anything was wrong. The red LED simply went on showing "standby."

I think (underlined) that I've noticed a very (very) fast flash (or "blink") toward the bottom of the screen on several occassions. I wonder if it has anything to do with the color "wheel" (if that is what it is called).

I'm just trying to understand how to approach Samsung tech when I call them on this.

Please, any suggestions?

Thanks, in advance.

(I turned the set back on aprox. 1/2 hour after the shut-offs...it's now working fine...this is a intermitent problem.)

Ed Weinman, I don't think there are too many parts left to replace. lol. I guess that's the good news. This is ridiculous though. I'd check the lamp door sensor first since that was an issue for a couple of people recently. The set will shut off or not turn on if it thinks the door is open, even if its in fact closed. The other part could be the power supply. I forget what the component is called if that isn't the name. One person recently had that replaced, I think after the ballast was. Afaik that's about it for parts.

Is this bulb the same for all Sammys? I have the HL6768 and after a LE exchange the new sm says 120W while the old LE showed 132 W. Is the wattage setting adjustable?

Well, I have not tried changing it, but look in this service menu and you will see a listing for bulb wattage and Brand. Might want to check with Samsung about this before changing either of these. My set is a year old and it's set at 120W.

I have no idea if this is the same bulb for all the different model numbers.

http://members.roadfly.com/postal-guy/Samsung Service Menu 11_19_06 003.jpg

bcvp,

Thanks, again, for your suggestions and concern. I have a way to contact the technician who last worked on the set replacing the bulb and ballast (and who, ironically, to me, no longer works for the repair company...!)...I will contact him and ask his advice prior to calling Samsung.

Just a question...how to I check the lamp door sensor?

Well, I changed the setting to 132W and didn't see any differences. So I left it at 132W. The extended warranty kicks in in Feb, so time will tell.

Well, the saga with my shadow problem and light engine replacement continues. Warrantech was supposed to ship the part to the repair shop. I had a tracking number and called the repair shop and told them to expect the part on Friday. They said they would install the LE and have the set back to my house on Tuesday (They are closed on weekends and Mondays).

I get home at 5:00 on Friday and what do I see sitting on my porch, a Samsung LE. The stupid Warrantech company, send the LE to my house instead of the repiar shop. So, now I have to wait until Tuesday before I can contact the repair shop and see if they are willing to deliver the set and install the LE on site. What a royal pain in the a$$.

If anyone is considering the Repair Master warranty from Warrantech, please read the fine print. It has been a nightmare trying to get my set fixed.

I don't think this has been addressed recently but the HD movies won't play 1080 via VGA if they have the HDCP that they are supposed to, right? Has anyone following the game consoles followed this?

HDCP only applies to digital connections (DVI or HDMI). The Xbox 360 will feed 1080P through VGA to the Samsung HLR TVs. HD DVD movies look great with the 360’s HD DVD add on, using VGA on my HLR6168. The sound, however, is not very good for HD DVD movies, when played through the 360. MS is working the sound problem.

Does the HLS6188w accept 1080p throught component cables or do you have to use vga or hdmi?

Ed, I'm not sure how to check it since its intermittent. It almost sounds like that 's it since it happened around the time the lamp was replaced, is that right? I'd let them figure it out. Worst case is you get new parts you don't need. lol. I think my door sensor is intermittent too. lol.

Halco, I wouldn't change the SM lamp settings. That could come back to haunt you since that is in the SM. Its not in the instructions or to be changed by the end user so I'd change it back.

Dreamr, I hate to say it but I'm looking at your situation from a different angle. The set was supposed to be serviced at your home. That's not their fault. You said they normally charge you for the new LE in advance and that they would return the $200 I think you said when you return the broken one. They need you to return the LE to get your money back.

In other words I wouldn't rely on the service center to take care of the LE which is your responsibility. I wouldn't let those people take it with them after what you've been through. It really sounds like most of your delay and issues are with the service center that Samsung gave you. I'd mention it to Samsung after your LE is fixed.

Vandu, just to be clear, are you saying that the HD DVDs you've played already have the HDCP software protection in them? Since most people who have VGA only have it on their PC, the HD DVDs will play on a PC via VGA but not in HD. Since the set will upscale I wonder if you are not getting an HD image?

My issue is whether there is something in the game console that tells the HD DVD to play out to VGA in HD since it won't do that on a PC. I believe you, but now I'm thinking if it works that the DVD must not have HDCP software in it yet?

bcvp,

Actually, the shutting off problem was the reason for calling them in the first place. Their diagnosis, at that time, was that it was a bulb/ballast problem (since the LED for lamp was blinking, back then, after the shut off).

The repair was done approx. five weeks ago. All was fine until the three shut offs I've discribed: one several days ago...the other two, yesterday.

Any ideas re: that very fast "flash" that I see, sometimes, at the bottom of the screen (which happens when the set it first turned on and after the image has been on for several seconds)? It happens so fast that, one blink, and you'd miss it.

bcvp,
As I stated in my last post HDCP only applies to digital connections. Since VGA and component are analog, HDCP does not apply. The 360 is capable of outputting 1080P over component and VGA. The HLRs can only accept 1080P over VGA. The 360 can also output 1080i over component, which some people may prefer to 1080P over VGA.

Vandu, sorry about that, I'm addressing the HDCP issue more than anything. HD or BR DVD movies will have HDCP encoding and my understanding is that in order to get the HD 1080 resolution from them you'll need an HDCP connection, which is not VGA like we both said and that is my question. I don't think you'll be able to get an HD movie with VGA in the future, if you're getting it now in a 1080 resolution. The set will up res it so it will play though, which a PC will not be able to do, that is up res it.

Spring cleaning.

Decided to do a more complete cleaning job than last time. The main fan (there are two - one large and one small) is held in by two screws and slides out nicely, allowing me to clean it out.

The whole inside of the tv was layered in dust. After an hour you finally reach a point where the only way you're ever going remove ALL the dust is to take it to a self-service car wash:)

Vandu,

What are your settings for VGA. I have the HLR 6168 and I can't get the VGA picture to look as detailed as the component. VGA via the 360, looks the same on 720 and 1080. Via component the movies looker sharper and the text on the menus looks sharper. I would like to use VGA for the lag problem, but not at the expense of the HD DVD picture.

moss312,
I don’t find the 1080P VGA image to be better or worse than the images with a 1080i component connection. I have contrast turned up all the way on VGA and brightness at 33, using Warm 1. I’m sure color and tint are not optimum but those adjustments are not available over VGA.
I can’t do a quick A/B comparison between VGA and component because I don’t have two HD DVD drives and two copies of the same HD DVD movie. I did do a quick A/B comparison between a DVD (Apollo 13) on a Samsung 950 DVD player and HD DVD with both VGA and component. Each time I switched to the HD DVD the picture was far superior to the DVD picture, whether it was VGA or component.

Edit: Another satisfied HLR 6168 VGA user
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8945128&&#post8945128