Omegadsl, are you sure your warranty is up? How long after the warranty expired did you notice the problem? BTW the warranty starts on the date you received the set you keep, not the date you paid for it or if you exchanged it for another. If you registered with Samsung you get an extra three months. If you haven't registered you should try it. You might be in luck. lol. Your credit card might have coverage.

If all attempts have failed I recommend you get an extended warranty. The catch is the set needs to be in working order, which it is right? lol. and you can't call for service within thirty days, you can wait right? lol. You should check with the store you bought the set from to see what extendeds they offer. People here should know where to go if you can't find one.

The LE part is over $1,200 without labor. Any extended is worth the price, as long as it includes the LE, which I think is the most expensive part. The LE is easy to install so if you don't have a warranty and can't get the extended. You should just order the part and people here can guide you through the install. If you can use a screwdriver you're halfway there. lol.

I just ordered my 71" HL S7178 and lit a candle..... Ugh! I can't read anymore threads of unhappy owners.

Well, I'm very happy to report that copying someone's (I'll leave them anonymous, and I'm very grateful for them) calibrated settings to my tv, even though it's a different model from mine, did indeed work. I'll need to make a few minor adjustments, but for the first time, flesh tones are natural instead of sunburned, (I never could get them right. Sunburned faces resulted from trying to make red, red. Before, all reds were more orange. Now I've got real red, and real looking flesh tones).

I grabbed a shot of HDNet just now here: Test Pic (http://bimmer.roadfly.com/bmw/forums/test/8165895-2.html)

The camera made it a little darker than it really is but it still shows the results.

Edit:
I was looking at the numerical changes I made and noticed that there were really only four settings that were radically changed, and each was reduced by a factor of 4.27 (as in dividing each by 4.27 and using the resulting value for the setting).

Those were (in the CCA menu): Red-Y, Green-Y, Blue-Y, and White-Y. For the most part, the remaining settings really didn't change that much, some increased, others decreased, by 10-20. So reducing these four settings seems to be the key, along with turning the DNIe off, which a lot of you have already done.

I suspect that my color wheel is getting a little noisy.
I notice a high-pitched hum during quiet scenes while watching my HL-R5078W.
It's not the fan.
Sascoa Electronics from RI is coming out tomorrow.
Does antone have experience with them?
I'm still under the 15 month Samsung waranty, then I've got another 12 months from Amex.
Any advice?

Thanks!

Hdtvbostonma, they are great! I'd say they are knowledgeable, prompt, friendly. They have local people in MA even though they are located in RI. My tech. was a woman and I was really impressed. I feel bad for people who don't get this kind of service. Everyone should get top notch service like this. They were here with the LE the next day and took less than a half hour. Two thumbs up, way up. lol.

I've had my 6168W for over a year and my LDL issue has recently become more apparent. From what I understand a replacement LE would fix this problem. However, since my warranty has run out I am not sure how to proceed. Does anyone know how much it would cost to have a replacement LE installed?

A new LE doesn't necessarily fix the LDL problem, although you might get lucky. I've had three light engines and they all have the problem. I haven't seen any information that Samsung resolved this.

Omegadsl, yeah I'm not so sure that the LDL was related to the LE? I think it was the DMD if I remember correctly? You should do a search on the top right for LDL. Afaik people have had it fixed when its that noticeable. The part should be less expensive if it isn't the LE and you are sure you are not or can't be covered. This sounds like my cholesterol. lol.

Does anyone have the original factory DNIE values?
I know that a couple were off, I believe they were CEP & CTE.
Are there any certain values that provide the best results, I think I remember reading about DEP & BWS.
How about CTE & CEP on?
Thanks!

Does anyone have the original factory DNIE values?
I know that a couple were off, I believe they were CEP & CTE.
Are there any certain values that provide the best results, I think I remember reading about DEP & BWS.
How about CTE & CEP on?
Thanks! The default for CEP, CTE and CVD is OFF. (Actually, in one menu CVD had no value, just "...")

Here's an experience with different values of the DNIe parameters:
Turning DNIe (Partially) Off (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7413606&&#post7413606)

My son runs Autodesk Inventor at home and wants to upgrade our ATI graphics card from Radeon 9800-128MB to FireGL X3-256MB. I drive our Samsung HL-R6768W with the VGA output of the Radeon 9800, which kinda sorta works (only at 1360x768, and with noticeable ghosting).

The FireGL X3-256 has no VGA output but rather two DVI-I dual link outputs. Anybody know whether one of those can drive the Samsung HDMI2/DVI input?

is the shadow samsung gift something guaranteed? i'm about a year into both of my samsungs and haven't noticed it yet. is it poor QA of the light engine assembly?

Milos47, I don't think DVI from a computer is the same as the old DVI from STBs, before HDMI? Afaik no one has been successful using VGA/DVI/HDMI. Make sure your VGA card outputs a 1920x1080 signal.

I'd get the cheapest card since you might consider a computer upgrade soon? If you plan to use the HTPC to play HD movies soon you'll probably need another card with the HDCP chip on it. Old cards say they are ready and are not unless you are sure it has the chip on it.

Slocko, I don't know how common the issue is, although it has happened at least once to just about everyone here. lol. My friend has a 5078 and hasn't had any issues with the set, knock on wood. I don't know what the cause is like heat or something but it seems to be a design issue since we've heard they changed the clips.

It seems you are more likely to have it the more you use the set. Its not a QA issue since the sets passed the inspection according to the way they were designed. Its still ridiculous regardless.

I was back in the service menu today, trying to fine tune it after trying someone else's settings (which worked out pretty well, see my earlier post). I was playing the Digital Video Essentials disk and using the Blue filter and the color bars to adjust the color, where you make all the shaded blocks match up.

Funny thing is, with the CCA off, the filter indicated all the colors were correct, all the blocks matched up perfectly. When I turned it back on, they showed some mismatch, (of course, not as bad as before I used the new settings). In fact, everything seemed to look brighter and better with the CCA off. What's up with that? Seems like you would not even need calibration if you could turn it off permanently. I'm sure there is more to it than that, but I have to wonder....

I'm not the expert. This is what I've picked reading the various postings here and in the Calibration threads and poking around in the SM. For the most part, I believe its correct, but I'm still learning.

Funny thing is, with the CCA off, the filter indicated all the colors were correct, all the blocks matched up perfectly. When I turned it back on, they showed some mismatch, (of course, not as bad as before I used the new settings).The purpose of the CCA parameters and related algorithm is to set the color gamut of the display to a standard, either Rec 601 (NTSC standard TV) or Rec 709 (HDTV). CCA accomplishes this by mixing primary colors to move the inherent primary and secondary colors of the display to the correct coordinates in CIE space. When CCA is off, no color mixing is occurring and the gamut will be incorrect (e.g., red isn't the red it's suppose to be).

The purpose of the color adjustment using the blue filter is to ensure that white and blue contain the same "amount" of primary blue. Likewise, the green and red filters are used to ensure equal amounts of red and green, respectively in white as in the primary colors. When using filters, this adjustment must be made with CCA off because CCA adds green and/or red to blue to adjust it for gamut and the filters can not account for the additional blue due to the mixing. (I do not know why you do not want to count this non-primary blue in the color adjustment.) After you have made the adjustment with CCA off (blue in white = blue in blue), when you turn it back on, CCA will add in colors to fix the gamut and change the apparent results achieved using the filters with CCA off. But, this is evidently not a problem.
In fact, everything seemed to look brighter and better with the CCA off. What's up with that? Seems like you would not even need calibration if you could turn it off permanently. I'm sure there is more to it than that, but I have to wonder....Everything seems brighter because with CCA off, blue in the gray scale is way too high. If you use a spectrometer or colorimeter to measure gray scale with CCA off (I've done this), you'll find that blue is > 100%, green is about 100% and red is < 100% across the gray scale. The colors might add to make gray but the correlated color temperature is too hot (or blue). In essence, you'll be watching a set adjusted like a store display model in torch mode. Also, as previously noted, with CCA off, the TV's color gamut or position of the primary colors in CIE space will be wrong. That is, you will not see the colors that the content creators intended you to see.

I'm in the service menu now watching the Packers vs Vikings game in HD, flipping back and forth between the CCA off and on, and the game looks better with the CCA off. The whites are whiter and the yellows brighter. The reds don't seem to change much. I might just watch the whole game in the service menu. The only distraction is the small box in the upper left corner that says 'CCA OFF.'

So again, if the tv can function like this (CCA off), why does it even need the CCA?
From what I can tell, a calibrated tv simply looks like a tv with the CCA off, or you could say, where having the CCA on look like it's off.

EDIT followup:

I remembered that the set defaults to WARM 1, so I've been changing the two settings there and just about have it to where there is no difference with having CCA on or off. The WARM 1 setting was causing the whites to be tinted in an undesirable way.

First of all, how you set your TV is obviously a matter of personal taste. If that's what you like then that's the way it should stay.

So again, if the tv can function like this (CCA off), why does it even need the CCA?CCA is there to get the color gamut correct which includes getting white at the correct coordinates. If CCA is off, then your primary and secondary colors are probably "wrong." If you want the colors to meet the standard definitions and appear as the content provider intended, then CCA should be on. (On the other hand, unless you have really good eyes or the colors are way off, you'll need special instruments to tell that the colors are wrong.)

If you want whiter "whites," try turning CCA on and using a different mode (Standard or Dynamic) with a hotter Color Tone, such as Cool2, Cool1 or Standard. This way, the primary and secondary colors at least can be "correct." By the way, look at the right side of the CCA menu. The values for the various whites listed are the Color Tone settings (coordinates) for white. (I assume this is what you refer to in your edited comment). Default setting for Warm1 white is cooler (too blue) than the NTSC and HDTV standard coordinates for white. But, it is warmer (redder) than the white setting (~9300K) used for most computer monitors out of the box. Most folks on seeing the two together would say that the standard white was tinted.

I reset Warm1 on my TV via the CCA menu to be at the standard coordinates for white, which are x=.313 and y=.329. Even with a properly adjusted gray scale, this standard white would probably seem "tinted" on first look. Again, to use CCA to precisely set these values requires special equipment.

From what I can tell, a calibrated tv simply looks like a tv with the CCA off, or you could say, where having the CCA on look like it's off.? No. Not even close! I'd bet that every pro calibrator on seeing a set with CCA off would recognize grey scale was not tracking 6500K. Folks who have had their sets calibrated usually comment that on first look, the colors are more subdued and the set is not as bright as they'd expected, in part due to the greyer whites (but mostly due to lower contrast setting or a stopped down iris setting). But, they gradually adjust and recognize that the calibrated set shows more details, especially in the dark scenes. Take a look at the default movie mode. It's probably the closest experience to what a calibrated set would look in terms of brightness and correctness of the white color.

As always, YMMV... some people prefer to watch their sets in torch mode. More power to them...

Welcome to the shadow club Tony.
I had a replacement LE (it simply wouldn't come on) for my 6768 back in October. Then last month Avical had a Texas tour and calibrated my set. The result was, as usual, a fantastic improvement. Now I have the shadow problem like many many others have experienced. The repair tech ordered a new one, but it's been two weeks and says the factory is back ordered. Looks like the problem is pandemic. The mirror-light tunnel (BP67-00218A) is the problem. It's a long 5" rod type mirror, which is glued in the lens assembly and apparently the glue gives up and it slips just enough to cause the shadow. I read in another post somewhere it can be repaired, but requires extensive disassembly of the light engine optics. It can be done but surely would void your warranty. Simple solution is replace the whoe LE kissing my calibration goodby! I am so tempted to and repair it myself. Tempting thought.

Thanks - I have not heard fo this - I have no problem replacing the enitre LE since
I haven't had it calibrated. Good luck repairing yours!

As always, YMMV... some people prefer to watch their sets in torch mode. More power to them...

Umm no, I don't like torch mode either, but I do want it to look natural and real. Since I cannot turn the CCA off, I simply made adjustments to the menu to where there is little or no difference between CCA on or off. A big part of that was bringing the White-Y setting all the way down to 34. That's working very well for me. I just about got it to where all the colors are true, and I'm also now seeing a lot of subtle hues that were not there before (that's a good thing). Also, a white shirt now looks white.

When I now see familiar objects like American flags, or a can of coke or pepsi, the colors match up correctly. Getting rid of the dingy whites made a lot of difference to that end. The football uniforms in tonights game finally look the correct colors.

Oh, I'm sure Eliab could make it look even better, but since I can't get him here, I'm making do with what I have. I have SpyderTV which is good for setting the contrast and brightness, but always makes everything too red, but of course the tv has only one color control and no tint in the regular menu.

Interesting learning process for us dummys. Just be glad that Samsung decided to use a high tech CCA algorithm for its consumer displays (an ISF calibrator's dream come true) which according to David Abrams is not common to other consumer displays. But, having said that, if the CCA program is dynamic in operation wouldn't turning it off have other bad effects perhaps not noticed at first?

And, another aspect of this exercise is that we are learning to improve the picture quality of these sets, by trial and error without the expense of ISF certified calibration and $15,000 worth of test equipment. Especially, since the really good calibrators seem to be few and far between.

Interesting learning process for us dummys. Just be glad that Samsung decided to use a high tech CCA algorithm for its consumer displays (an ISF calibrator's dream come true) which according to David Abrams is not common to other consumer displays. But, having said that, if the CCA program is dynamic in operation wouldn't turning it off have other bad effects perhaps not noticed at first?

And, another aspect of this exercise is that we are learning to improve the picture quality of these sets, by trial and error without the expense of ISF certified calibration and $15,000 worth of test equipment. Especially, since the really good calibrators seem to be few and far between.

Hello Hal,

I'm finally getting back on the forum :). Turning the CCA system off disables the color coordinate correction system, and also changes the grayscale. There are adjustments in other parts of the service menu that will allow you to dial in the grayscale to D6500K with the CCA off; however, the color primaries and secondaries would be inaccurate. The beauty of the CCA system is that we can match the color primaries and secondaries, as well as the grayscale, to meet system standards so that the viewer and the director share the same experience.

You are correct in that there are very few calibrators that have the proper knowledge, experience, and equipment to work on these displays. Hopefully, this will change in time.

Best,

Dave

And, another aspect of this exercise is that we are learning to improve the picture quality of these sets, by trial and error without the expense of ISF certified calibration and $15,000 worth of test equipment.Not so sure my wife would agree. She'd be willing pay for a Pro to calibrate the set if it would reduce the amount of time I spend playing around in the service menu, especially when she's trying to watch the thing (though I try to limit my "adjustments" to commercial breaks). Personally, if you really want the best performance you'd be hard pressed to find a better solution than a calibration by the likes of David, Eliab or UMR. If you are more interested in the process, as I am, you can get into the guts of the system for less than $15K. With the Spyder 2 Express package (~$70), CalMan software (~$100), and GetGray disk (~$25), you too can get involved in the highly frustrating and enormously time consuming task of DIY calibrationist. With this combination, you can do the routine things (contrast, brightness) as well as color gamut, grayscale and color decoder adjustments. (And, if you order now, we'll throw in a brand new... ) But, remember, the Pros will not divulge which parameters in the SM to use nor how to use them. (Why should they? It's their livelihood!) Caveats: 1. Though I own CalMan and a Spyder 2, I do not routinely use them, so I'm definitely not an expert on all of their capabilities. 2. Most of the Pros believe that the Spyder is a joke for serious gray scale work. Based on a comparison I did with an i1 Pro, I'd agree. 3. Some pros believe the i1 Pro (which I routinely use) is a joke... FWIW.

David, I was reading your DVE tutorial, and in "Step 3: Color and Tint," it mentions that when you are adjusting the color, the CCA is "negating the results when using a color filter. As such, it can only be adjusted properly by temporarily disabling the CCA option within the service menu."

So, after you calibrate a Samsung dlp, would you still see a difference in the picture if you were to repeatedly turn the CCA on and off?

The reason I ask is that when I turn the CCA off in the service menu, then the blue filter shows that the color control is set correctly. So does that mean that when calibrated, you won't see a difference (using the filter) when you turn the CCA back on?

Thanks.

I'm a new member of the left shadow club thanks to my TVAuthority purchased HL-R6168W. Even though the set was just out of warranty Samsung extended it and sent a tech out who replaced the LE. Took him less than 30 minutes and the picture looks great now. At first I thought there was a problem with the VGA input, but apparently the picture size (stretch) just need to be re-adjusted after the LE swap. One question that the tech didn't know ... has Samsung provided an updated firmware for this set, specifically one that support a discrete TV source switch yet? The extension of my warranty is only till 1/15, so thought it might be worth asking for (if available), before I'm on my own.

David, I was reading your DVE tutorial, and in "Step 3: Color and Tint," it mentions that when you are adjusting the color, the CCA is "negating the results when using a color filter. As such, it can only be adjusted properly by temporarily disabling the CCA option within the service menu."

So, after you calibrate a Samsung dlp, would you still see a difference in the picture if you were to repeatedly turn the CCA on and off?

The reason I ask is that when I turn the CCA off in the service menu, then the blue filter shows that the color control is set correctly. So does that mean that when calibrated, you won't see a difference (using the filter) when you turn the CCA back on?

Thanks.

stekout,

Yes, after the display is properly calibrated there will still be a difference in the color bar pattern when CCA is on Vs. off. The CCA, or color coordinate adjustment, system works by adding the various colors of the filter wheel together to achieve various color gamuts. When the CCA system is turned on, various colors are being added to the blue channel of video. The blue filter is designed to filter out all other colors, except blue. If CCA is on, and the filter is being used, colors that are not meant to be filtered out are filtered out - this causes an error in the adjustment. By turning CCA off we are able to view only the blue channel of video, without introducing the error.

Regards,

Dave

MMorrow, there is no FW update available. Some have noted newer FW dates on sets that have newer manufacture dates but there is no FW release available and no word of any in the future.

You might consider getting an extended warranty since a replacement LE is over $1,200. Check with TVA, others or Samsung and your credit card might include an extended.

You might consider getting an extended warranty since a replacement LE is over $1,200. Check with TVA, others or Samsung and your credit card might include an extended.

I second that. Get an extended warranty now.

I have to wonder if the warranty companies will increase their prices seeing the expensive repairs in store for them. I hope my warranty company doesn't go broke like some auto warranty companies have. That is a real possibility.

specifically one that support a discrete TV source switch yet?

Already has that

I had my light engine replaced back in August for the left shadow problem. Today its back on the right side and growing steadily. Its out of warranty now (even with the three month extension) and is over 90 days since they fixed it the first time.

I suspect Samsung will not honor any additional warranty repairs. I did purchase it with the AE card so I have my 2nd year warranty with them.

So I guess we are all doomed to have this problem for as long as we own the set.

Sorry to hear about your shadow too. I'm still waiting for the replacement LE to come in and the shadow has grown to about 5" now! My buddy bought a 7178 about a year ago and no problems. I wonder if this problem only relates to the 68 series? What is the warranty on repairs?

I had my light engine replaced back in August for the left shadow problem. Today its back on the right side and growing steadily. Its out of warranty now (even with the three month extension) and is over 90 days since they fixed it the first time.

I suspect Samsung will not honor any additional warranty repairs. I did purchase it with the AE card so I have my 2nd year warranty with them.

So I guess we are all doomed to have this problem for as long as we own the set.
Considering how common and constant this problem is, you might want to call someone higher up than the gate keeping front line customer service people you get on the first call. I'd think that as common as this is, that possibly there is a "silent recall" on the part, kind of like car defects they don't announce publically, but when you bring them in they fix it for free. Don't mention the AMEX warranty or Samsung will just decline responsibility.

Left-side shadow just appeared on my HL-R6168 last night...about an inch on the bottom left right now. Set is about 4 months out of warranty, but I do have an extended warranty on it...about 3 yrs left on that. Guess I'll be calling Samsung to see if they can get this fixed before the playoffs get into gear.

I also have the left shadow problem. Had it for a few months already, just haven't taken any action until a few days ago. The freaking shadow has grown to 6 inches in width and still growing!!

Good thing my warranty doesn't end until Feb. 2007 supposebly. Thats what the Samsung representative said after he extended my expired warranty an extra 3 months. However, the guy said he faxed this tech service called Sarpo videos and they should "call" me within 2-3 business days to check out the problem.

One question though, I ordered the 6768w on November 07, 2005 and the Samsung representative said he "extended my warranty" for 3 months. He said it will end on Feb. 2007. But, how am I suppose to show proof that my TV is still under the warranty if all I have is a receipt that saids I purchased it on November 07, 2005? Are they going to say no and not fix my TV? I'm not very good with these types of things, so if anyone could tell me how the procedure works I would greatly appreciate it!

wanger,
The service technician is under contract by Samsung. I wouldn’t worry about proof of purchase for this call, since Samsung has already said you are covered until February. I would, however, save your receipt for use with an extended warrantee. I would definitely purchase an extended warrantee if you haven’t already. The left side shadow is all too common on these TVs and will likely run you $1,200 to $1,500 to repair on your own. Some have had more than one LE replacement, which isn’t comforting.

Thanks vandu. I guess I will have to spend some more money on this tv. :(

We have a HL-S5087W and the light engine failed about month ago. Samsungs customer service stinks. They now tell us they have finally found a part and it will be delivered in 8 days. The shadow now covers 1/2 of the screen and the TV Powers off about once an hour. I guess I had better try to pick up an extended warranty as these Samsungs seem to be lemons.

I called Samsung on the second shadow event. The person was very cooperative and knowledgeable but would not comment on the fact that they have or have not solved the problem permanently (I guess by my own experience the answer is probably not). He noted that the set was out of warranty and that it has been more than 90 days since the first repair.

However he stated that I should have the set checked out by an authorized repair technician and if they found it to be the same problem there was a very good chance that Samsung would repair it for no charge.

When I called the repair center (I have had 3 light engines in the set and called the first company rather than the 2nd), they stated that they could probably get the part covered but I would most likely have to pay for the repair. We'll see.

The Samsung tech stated that if the repair company felt they could not repair it then they would consider replacing the set with a new one. That would be doubtful because you can keep throwing light engines at it tell eternity.

So the bottom line is that I now have to buy a extended warranty once the problem is fixed and fold the cost of that into the overall set cost, which just reduced its value substantially.

I hate to say it but it looks like Samsung, realizing the shadow problem is not going away, and they won't admit its a major flaw is starting to "stonewall" us on this issue and I expect they will find every excuse to keep from addressing the problem. I'm still waiting for my second LE replacement. I talked to the repair shop today and they said my one year factory warranty was out and I would have to call Samsung and have them verify that I have the extra 3 months extension (ends in Feb) otherwise, they might have to charge me. They replaced the last LE in October. I asked if that repair was warranted and he said only until the end of the original factory warranty. I would be mad as hell by now but, I have a four year extended from Tweeter, and may have to resort to calling them if Samsung can't remedy my problem. They can replace a lot of LE's in the next three years as far as I'm concerned!

I have the hlr 6768 and am having major overscan. It cuts the top of heads off and only can see half the large cnn logo in bottom left of screen. It cuts off vert and hor, can this be adjusted. I just had the le replaced so decided to try and get this fixed because i am tired of this issue and the tech did not have a clue. Will the sm fix this issue, it seems extreme. I am using hdmi only. The tech said there was no way to resize vert or hortizontally. thanks for any info.

Jeez, can't these techs get this right? It sounds like he didn't do a proper alignment after he placed the LE back in the set. It's true you can't resize the image, only vertical and horizontal position. You can go into the SM and check that. When you bring up the position menu you will see a red border test patern to assist in proper alignment. What was the orginal problem with your LE? Give us some more info if you have any.

I have the hlr 6768 and am having major overscan. It cuts the top of heads off and only can see half the large cnn logo in bottom left of screen. It cuts off vert and hor, can this be adjusted. I just had the le replaced so decided to try and get this fixed because i am tired of this issue and the tech did not have a clue. Will the sm fix this issue, it seems extreme. I am using hdmi only. The tech said there was no way to resize vert or hortizontally. thanks for any info.

I found that its a lot better to get a DVD with a anamorphic grid to set the screen vs the red outline in the SM. The red outline is way off compared to one of the THX grids you can find on disks like StarWars or Pirates.

I think about 5% of overscan is normal (you can decide how to spread it around to best suit your needs but I don't think you can shrink or expand the dimensions, just move them)

For those who bought these sets from TV Authority power buy, where did you get an extended warranty for it? I saw the ones on their website but I did not know what it covered. THanks

Anyone know if there is a way to find out what frequency or channel your QAM tuner is tuned to? Since the TV remaps channels that have PSIP data encoded with them (e.g. 110-1 gets remapped to 3-1 for your local affiliate), you dont know what actual channel/frequency the station is on.

One way is http://antennaweb.org/aw/welcome.aspx where it will give the channel number as the frequency assignment for each station.

Another way is to find your own city here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=45
and ask or look around to see if someone lists them there.

QAM.

Not OTA. My cable company passes the PSIP data over coax so my TV puts the channels in the right spot in the lineup.

I hate to say it but it looks like Samsung, realizing the shadow problem is not going away, and they won't admit its a major flaw is starting to "stonewall" us on this issue and I expect they will find every excuse to keep from addressing the problem. I'm still waiting for my second LE replacement. I talked to the repair shop today and they said my one year factory warranty was out and I would have to call Samsung and have them verify that I have the extra 3 months extension (ends in Feb) otherwise, they might have to charge me. They replaced the last LE in October. I asked if that repair was warranted and he said only until the end of the original factory warranty. I would be mad as hell by now but, I have a four year extended from Tweeter, and may have to resort to calling them if Samsung can't remedy my problem. They can replace a lot of LE's in the next three years as far as I'm concerned!

I purchased through Tweeter as well and had light engine issues from delivery. I worked directly with them on two light engine replacements. When they couldn't come up with the part, they replaced the set. Once I got over the fact the light/dark/light thing wasn't going away, I got over it. I had to deal with the lens diffraction problem that resulted in Samsung coming up with the new lens cover earlier this year. All through this, Tweeter was excellent. They were more effective dealing with Samsung than I could have been.

Well, it seems Samsung is about to deny me warranty service on this stripe issue. My HL-R6168 is certainly out of warranty, since it is a replacement for a defective HL-P6163 (over a year ago). Waiting on hold for a supervisor right now. I wonder, since this set is over a year old, is there any chance this is a sign of a dying bulb?

Update: After asking to speak with a sup (and being told: "They wouldn't do any different, but you can speak to them anyhow.") my case is being sent up the chain to ECR (Executive Custormer Relations).

smahon,
I hate to hear about your problems with Samsung. Hopefully, they will accomodate you on this. I just got off the phone with them about the LE problem and they said Samsung had gotten a bad batch of LE's and was switching source to a different mfg in Japan until they figured out what was actually happening with the engines. Sounds like BS to me but at least they admitted to having a problem. I am so tempted to tear my LE apart and find out for myself where that shadow originates. Sounds mechanical and could be fixed. Super glue perhaps? :-)

smahon,
I hate to hear about your problems with Samsung. Hopefully, they will accomodate you on this. I just got off the phone with them about the LE problem and they said Samsung had gotten a bad batch of LE's and was switching source to a different mfg in Japan until they figured out what was actually happening with the engines. Sounds like BS to me but at least they admitted to having a problem. I am so tempted to tear my LE apart and find out for myself where that shadow originates. Sounds mechanical and could be fixed. Super glue perhaps? :-)

In my case, there wasn't any problem with glue, it was simply a realignment of the mirror tunnel. Tech spent about 15 minutes and it's better then ever. Having watched it, the most difficult part was removing the dozen or so screws holding the light engine in so it could be slid out. Then simply loosening off of the tunnel mounting screws and slight movement and life is good. The tech did say this process was trial and error but first time lucly for me. Without warranty, certainly worth a try.

turbinboy thnks for the info.
It sounds simple enough. Just for the record what model do you have and could you see how the tech adjusted the tunnel? Was it sort of like, loosen up re-tighten everything and hope it works?

Without warranty, certainly worth a try.
Very interesting indeed. I don't mind messing with this if I have to, but I'd rather get a new LE (with a new bulb!!!) We'll see where I get with Samsung "ECR". During the last time around, when they replaced my HLP, I went all the way up the ECR chain to the Executive Director of Customer Relations. Maybe he remembers me.

Well, my LE was just replaced in October and I had David Abrams calibrate my set in November and now I'm looking at another replacement LE! That's why I would rather have the LE repaired like turbinboy reported in the previous post. At least I would save the cost of recalibration. Also, if you don't get anywhere with Samsung maybe you can tryout the repair and report you results, that is if you are so inclined. It might be just that simple. Anyway I hope Samsung comes through for you.
Here's the shadow thread just started.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=758625

turbinboy thnks for the info.
It sounds simple enough. Just for the record what model do you have and could you see how the tech adjusted the tunnel? Was it sort of like, loosen up re-tighten everything and hope it works?

I have HLR-6178. Once the light engine was out , the tech removed a small cover over the mirror tunnel, loosened the screws holding the tunnel, allowed the mirror tunnel to drop slightly and re-tightened. Slid the engine back in and turned on and everything was great. In all honesty, I think the alignment was never quite right from day one as the picture now has much more depth and 3-D impact . The tech also noted this was his 2nd set to make this adjustment on that day so perhaps the total light engine replacement is simply a time saver for the service guys in case they need to fiddle with the alignment several times to get it right. The tech definitely noted it is a trial and error adjustment in the field.

QAM.

Not OTA. My cable company passes the PSIP data over coax so my TV puts the channels in the right spot in the lineup.

Not sure I follow you. You said "you dont know what actual channel/frequency the station is on." Antennaweb.org gives you that information. The actual channel/frequency is assigned by the FCC, and that is what you will see at that site.

For example, there is channel 9 here. It's frequency assignment is on channel 9. The digital version is 9-1, and it's frequency assignment is channel 46.

Now if you want the actual frequency in MHZ for either channel 9 or 46, you can look here: http://www.arrl.org/tis/info/catv-ch.html and see that channel 9 is 187.25 MHz and channel 46 is 663.25 Mhz.

Is that what you're asking?

Add me to the list of people with the left side shadow problem. Luckily, I had registered my HLR-6168 online since it went out in month 15. I've called in the problem to Samsung, had a tech visit, and am currently waiting for a part to arrive (I assume an LE).

Here is the twist, I was watching TV last night and it's gone. There is no sign of it anywhere. Just a week ago, I had a 1" - 2" shadow/stripe running down the left had side, now it's gone.

I realize that the problem apparently is caused by something coming loose inside the LE, but I hadn't heard of it going away before. Has anyone else experienced this?

jpe

I realize that the problem apparently is caused by something coming loose inside the LE, but I hadn't heard of it going away before. Has anyone else experienced this?

jpe

My first shadow went away for a few days then came back with a vengence.

Well, it seems Samsung is about to deny me warranty service on this stripe issue. My HL-R6168 is certainly out of warranty, since it is a replacement for a defective HL-P6163 (over a year ago). Waiting on hold for a supervisor right now. I wonder, since this set is over a year old, is there any chance this is a sign of a dying bulb?.

I got my set 16 months ago, so even though I registered online, my warranty period was clearly over. When I spoke with the Samsung tech support line, I was very politely told that they could not treat it as a warranty issue. I did tell them that I believed that it should be treated as under warranty because it was a known issue related to either defective parts or a design problem. Because I purchased an extended warrnty, I did not try to elevate it to a supervisor. The Samsung tech did give me the name/number for the closest authorized service center.

I next called the Repaimaster line. After being in the hold queue for about 15 minutes, I talked with one of their reps. His first question was whether I had checked the convergence <uh oh>. I told him that is was a DLP set so it could not be a convergence issue. He also asked me if it was happening on all inputs, and I told him that I had not checked all of them, but it was happening on both of the inouts that I use most often. After that, he gave me the name and number of a service center, but not the one that Samsung had recommended <uh oh>.

The following day I got a call from the service center. He asked me what the problem was, and although I was expecting to get someone who was unqualified, after a brief description he said "o.k., you are going to need a new light engine, let me check to see when we can get one." He told me that the light engines are currently on back-order, so for now I sit and wait for one to arrive. But at least he was one top of the issue.

Add me to the list of people with the left side shadow problem. Luckily, I had registered my HLR-6168 online since it went out in month 15. I've called in the problem to Samsung, had a tech visit, and am currently waiting for a part to arrive (I assume an LE).

Here is the twist, I was watching TV last night and it's gone. There is no sign of it anywhere. Just a week ago, I had a 1" - 2" shadow/stripe running down the left had side, now it's gone.

I realize that the problem apparently is caused by something coming loose inside the LE, but I hadn't heard of it going away before. Has anyone else experienced this?

jpe


yea mine went away once. But once it came back again a few weeks later, it was pissed off and grew to almost 6 inches in width.

http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/825/bigln1.jpg



But take a look at this person's tv.

http://img240.imageshack.us/img240/4835/samsung2ez8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

For those who bought these sets from TV Authority power buy, where did you get an extended warranty for it? I saw the ones on their website but I did not know what it covered. THanks

I bought extended warranty for 5 years through Warrentech (TVAuthority sells these). I am glad I did as I have the dreaded shadow problem now! Waiting for new LE.

Add me to the list of people with the left side shadow problem. Luckily, I had registered my HLR-6168 online since it went out in month 15. I've called in the problem to Samsung, had a tech visit, and am currently waiting for a part to arrive (I assume an LE).

Here is the twist, I was watching TV last night and it's gone. There is no sign of it anywhere. Just a week ago, I had a 1" - 2" shadow/stripe running down the left had side, now it's gone.

I realize that the problem apparently is caused by something coming loose inside the LE, but I hadn't heard of it going away before. Has anyone else experienced this?

jpe


Yes mine went away for about 4 months and is now back.

Not sure I follow you. You said "you dont know what actual channel/frequency the station is on." Antennaweb.org gives you that information. The actual channel/frequency is assigned by the FCC, and that is what you will see at that site.

For example, there is channel 9 here. It's frequency assignment is on channel 9. The digital version is 9-1, and it's frequency assignment is channel 46.

Now if you want the actual frequency in MHZ for either channel 9 or 46, you can look here: http://www.arrl.org/tis/info/catv-ch.html and see that channel 9 is 187.25 MHz and channel 46 is 663.25 Mhz.

Is that what you're asking?

Nope, I'm asking what channel or frequency my cable company is transmitting in the clear QAM256. Because my cable copmany transmits the PSIP data found in the OTA stream, my TV remaps the channels from 110-3 to 3-1. However it hides the 110-3 from me, and I'd like to find out that information.

Halco, I don't understand the status of your repair? Has someone been called out, have they ordered the LE, have they made an appointment yet? I think everyone here is a little bent out of shape over this LE defect especially if you calibrated the set or you're on your second LE. I can only imagine the number of people who have the same problem who aren't on this forum. Wtf.

The key is to stay calm and be pleasant but don't take any BS. Opening the set could void the warranty. Don't mention another warranty like Amex or another extended. Stay on them.

bcvp,
The status of the repair is waiting for my local authorized service company to receive a new LE from Samsung. It's been since Dec 8, that I called them. I called Samsung for the status of my repair and was told the parts had not come in and didn't know when they would receive them. I pressed him for more info and he put me on hold to find out more. He came back and said engineering was aware of the problem and said there was a batch of defective Light Engines, how many, and over what time frame, he didn't say. He said engineering was looking into the matter and until they find a solution, they are going to new vendor in Japan for the LE's. (who built them before??) He had no idea how long it would take. It could be a long time IMO. If my shadow does not grow beyond the present 3 inches or so, I can hold out. The question that comes to mind, is what about all the people who have recently had LE's replaced? Old vendor? Same potential defective LE? Who knows?

I would venture to say that most of the sets with this problem are very close to the end of the factory warranty, including the extra three months. I asked what their policy was for warranty on replacement repairs and he couldn't tell me. I suspect you would be SOL! I asked about my warranty and he said it had expired and I reminded him that when I registered I was granted an additional 3 months. In fact they told me I was good until Feb 2007. He said they had no record of it. He put me on hold, came back and said "under the circumstances they would extend it until Jan 30!" Thankfully, I still have another three years extended with Tweeter.

So far, Samsung service has been ok for me. The last repair, in October, my picture would take about 20 min to come on and then flickered another 10 or so before it settled down. The tech replaced the light engine and fired up the set. No picture. So, then he said it must be the digital board, went out to the truck for a digital board. Then, when the connectors didn't match up he discovered it was the wrong board. Two days later a different tech comes back with the right digital board, hooks it up still no picture, black screen. He says "sorry, it must be another defective LE, so he starts to pull out the LE and discovers the first tech forgot to remove the protective plastic lens cover! Takes it off and everything works perfectly.

You are right, we need to collectively, pool our concerns and push Samsung for a solution. Not just another LE which could fail in a year or two. How many have this problem? Only the Shadow knows.

Yes mine went away for about 4 months and is now back.

Geez--so were you able to get this fixed under warranty or did that put you over?

Thanks for all of these replies on seeing the shadow problem come back--that will keep me on their case to get it fixed.

One other question, has anyone been fortunate enough to get an entirely new TV from Samsung as a solution? With the prices dropping like rocks on these, it could almost be cheaper for them to just replace the TV rather than keep replacing light engines and getting bad press with the "early adopter" crowd.

jpe

I can't belive it but the local news says Comsucks is raising their prices, again. WTF. lol. Does anyone know the current promos on Dish and Direct? I'm looking to split the cost with the landlord so we'll have two HDTVs on the account. As long as they're cheaper with the same number of channels I'm gone. lol.

I can't belive it but the local news says Comsucks is raising their prices, again. WTF. lol. Does anyone know the current promos on Dish and Direct? I'm looking to split the cost with the landlord so we'll have two HDTVs on the account. As long as they're cheaper with the same number of channels I'm gone. lol.

Well, Dish currently has more HD channels than Directv, but that will flipflop come next April or May when Directv launches two more birds, then they will offer some +40 HD channels.

Regardless of which you choose, you should be able to get ALL of the equipment (DVR, receivers, sat installation) for free. They might even throw in some free HD programming for several months if you really try. Don't go just by what is on their websites but call them instead and tell them you want to leave cable; that seems to make them more generous.

If you want a DVR (and who doesn't), the majority opinion on DBStalk.com seems to favor Directv's DVR. It seems Dish has had a long history of being slow to correct the software problems with their DVR and receivers, one which is still ongoing since last May, (failure of the HDMI connection; you may have to use component cables until they solve the problem. They tried swapping out units but ran out of them because they're all affected).

As an owner of Directv latest greatest HD DVR (HR20-700), it's not all peaches & cream either.

Thanks guys! I have a bunch of HD channels with HBO and I think another movie channel, which I don't watch on Comsucks with two HD DVRs for $120. Three percent plus tax is probably close to $5. I'm not nickel and diming here but I'm not going to spend $20 more just to leave Comsucks unless there were more HD channels or something.

My mother has SD but she switched out of a Tivo STB to a DVR on Direct. I liked it more than Tivo, I guess I found the Tivo to be more involved than it needed to be. Now she's locked in a two year contract she didn't have before. Any more info or comparisons to Comsucks would be great.

I just had my LE replaced due to a high-pitched hum from the color wheel.
The new one is much quieter, but I'm not sure about the PQ.
I'm wondering if the lamp needs to "burn in", I remember that when the set was new, the PQ improved drastically after about 100 hrs.
Fox HD for the Denver / SF game looked awful today.I also notice that the left side of the screen seems a little darker than the rest of the screen. It's not the stripe, but I'm not sure.
My PQ before was amazing, this doesn't look as good. More dithering, some pixelation with dark colors.
Any thoughts? It's my 1st repair. I was reluctant, but the hum from the CW was annoying. I hope that I didn't open Pandora's box.
THANKS!!!!

What model do you have? Did you watch the tech replace the LE and do you know if he went into the SM to make any adjustments?

What model do you have? Did you watch the tech replace the LE and do you know if he went into the SM to make any adjustments?

HL-R5078W
Some adjustments were done, I think that some values were transfered to the new LE. The Index Delay was adjusted, but I'm not sure what else. It may be too early to tell. What about the "burn in" of the lamp?
I was told that this LE was calibrated by Samsung.
I was also told that this was the latest version of this LE.
RBE seems to be less with this one.

hdtvbostonma, I'm crossing my fingers that its the new lamp. I wouldn't jump the gun yet but it sounds like the LDL, no not cholesterol, lol. issue. Depending on how often you use the set I'd give it some time. You might mark the LE date on a calendar and check it in a month and see if you forget about it or if its still there. This might also depend on how much time is left on any warranty you currently have. I know the SSE and RBE disappeared on their own, without me noticing it.

HL-R5078W
Some adjustments were done, I think that some values were transfered to the new LE. The Index Delay was adjusted, but I'm not sure what else. It may be too early to tell. What about the "burn in" of the lamp?
I was told that this LE was calibrated by Samsung.
I was also told that this was the latest version of this LE.
RBE seems to be less with this one.

The Digital boards are all pretty standard from my experience. It's the LE to Digital transfer that is critical. The LE's have the variance in them. For example, I had Digital board replaced after the set had been calibrated. The picture was not what I was used to. Fortunately I had taken pictures of the SM settings and restored them after the swap out. The set was to my eyes back in the calibrated state. This was not true before I restored the settings.

In the case of having a LE replaced, it's best to transfer the settings to the Digital Board since any previous settings and calibration are rendered useless.

Thanks for the answers.
How does the LDL manifest? If there is any variance on my screen, it's very slight.
There is no definite point of dark to light. It's very gradual.
Sometimes if you look for something you will find it.
I hope that this is the case.

Well Boys and Girls I decided tonight to try and see if I could remedy my shadow problem on my own. I tore my tv apart and can say that the problem is definitely with the light tunnel. First I removed the light engine. Next there was a cover over the main lens. I them proced to remove the color wheel assy. The mirror tunnel is the end of a small lens assy to the left of the color wheel assy. When I moved it I could hear a small rattling noise. There is a small metal plate on the end of the assy that holds the tunnel in. Also two screws on the sides. While I was looking at it a small mirror fell out of it. It was about 2 in long by maybe a quarter inch. I knew I was screwed now. The mirror that fell out had double sided tape on the back and that is apparantly what causes the problem in the first place. All four mirrors are inside of a metal tube that is held together by a clip and two spring that are wrapped around it. I took it all apart and noticed that only two to the mirrors had the tape on the back the other two are just held in by pressure. That is the problem with these pieces of crap. There needs to be some glue on the back of these things. At this point I was thinking I would just have to order a new light tunnel, but didnt want to be without a tv for a week. I got out the super glue and went to work. At this point I should say that Under No circumstances would I recommend repairing one of these things. If someone wants to try fixing this then order a new tunnel BEFORE you take this apart. I spent the better part of an hour glueing the mirrors in and it is impossible to get them in the right place or to do it without getting some glue/fingerprints on the face of mirrors. I put everything back together and turned the set on. I fully expected the shadow to be worse or covering the whole screen. To my suprise the shadow from the left side was gone. Now for the bad news. Along the top of the screen I now have some kind of smudges/ waves that must be something on the mirrors. Well Im off to order a new mirror tunnel now. I took a few pics if anyone wants to see them.

Yes pictures please. I can host them if you need.

mgreen200,
I congratulate you on your courage. Sorry your effort wasn’t 100% successful. I’m sure most here would be very grateful for any pictures.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9327546&posted=1#post9327546

I have posted them here in the" Shadow on left of Samsung DLP screen " thread

My problem seems to have gotten better. I think that some type of coating has to burn off the lamp. I couls actually smell it. The PQ keeps getting better.
I'm still not sure if the left side of the screen is slightly dim.

Great job mgreen200. Thanks.
Just a couple of questions. I didn't see the light tunnel out of the case. And, which mirror creates the shadow. Top, bottom? Lens cleaner would have been better. So SS has the parts, no problem? I take it the tunnel assembly simply slides into the housing in one piece?

I don't know when they are coming with my replacement LE, but I am going to ask if I can keep my original LE for a spare by covering their deposit, which I heard was around $600. Don't know if they will, but it's worth a try.

Mgreen200, wow, you are one brave and crazy guy! lol. That is really risky to put it mildly. It sounds like you could easily go back and check and clean the glass again, unless its scratched. That really does suck! So close! lol. Very good info, great job! Why can't Samsung provide something like this somewhere, I mean the techs don't even know about this. Wtf.

Halco, you remind me of my father, some things he has around are for just in case. lol. I think the new LEs have been fixed in which case your old one is just old. I wouldn't keep a defective part for $600, but this is all just my opinion. I tell my father to get rid of some his junk he has around that he never uses. lol. If anything it would be better to keep the new LE should you need a fourth replacement, which I hope you won't, IMO.

Cant help it I'm a HAM!

lol, ok! lol.

Great job mgreen200. Thanks.
Just a couple of questions. I didn't see the light tunnel out of the case. And, which mirror creates the shadow. Top, bottom? Lens cleaner would have been better. So SS has the parts, no problem? I take it the tunnel assembly simply slides into the housing in one piece?

I don't know when they are coming with my replacement LE, but I am going to ask if I can keep my original LE for a spare by covering their deposit, which I heard was around $600. Don't know if they will, but it's worth a try.


I dont know which mirror makes the shadow. I guessing it was the one that fell out. I never took a pic of the tunnel out of the case. sorry If you look at the last picture you will see a metal tube with a square hole in the middle. I hope that is the piece that they send me. That piece splits in half and holds the mirrors. I dont think they would just send the tunnel because there would be nothing to hold it together. I will take more pics when I put the new one in.

Halco, you remind me of my father, some things he has around are for just in case. lol. I think the new LEs have been fixed in which case your old one is just old.

The new LE have not been fixed. I will be on my second one after this next fix and others have reported having the shadow appear again as well. It now sounds like the HLS units are not immune and in fact are just coming into the timeframe we should see the light tunnels collapse.

Quick question: I see a couple of references that seem to indicate that when the light engine is replaced, you get a new bulb (lamp). Am I reading that wrong? I would have thought they would continue to use the existing lamp and not automatically replace it.

Quick question: I see a couple of references that seem to indicate that when the light engine is replaced, you get a new bulb (lamp). Am I reading that wrong? I would have thought they would continue to use the existing lamp and not automatically replace it.

I never got a definative answer to the same question I just figured it was part of the LE assembly.

Quick question: I see a couple of references that seem to indicate that when the light engine is replaced, you get a new bulb (lamp). Am I reading that wrong? I would have thought they would continue to use the existing lamp and not automatically replace it.

On the two light engines I have had a new bulb came with every one and the tech reset the lamp clock too.

I would have thought they would continue to use the existing lamp and not automatically replace it.

Changing a light bulb is not a skill that's required of Sammy's technicians.

It's really an issue of cost. I guess we get a new lamp for our troubles.

Well, that works for me. I figured it was about time to order a spare, but if I get a new one with the LE, maybe I'll see if I can keep the old one as a spare.

Think about this. If they replace your LE because of the shadow problem, which we are now discovering can be repaired yourself for around $75, ask to keep your old LE. They are coming to replace my LE for the shadow and I'm paying their deposit on the return and keeping my old LE. That LE is new and was just installed in October. So, long after my warranty expires I'll have most of what's likely to break over the long term.

... I'm paying their deposit on the return and keeping my old LE. Just curious... How much is the deposit?

$313.00

I dont know which mirror makes the shadow. I guessing it was the one that fell out. I never took a pic of the tunnel out of the case. sorry If you look at the last picture you will see a metal tube with a square hole in the middle. I hope that is the piece that they send me. That piece splits in half and holds the mirrors. I dont think they would just send the tunnel because there would be nothing to hold it together. I will take more pics when I put the new one in.

Not sure of your model but if you have a 6178 with the L680 engine, the tube you refer to is called "Lens-ILL E4" and is part number BP67-00221A. There is also "Mirror-Light tunnel" which appears to sit at the end of the square tube and it's P/N BP67-00218A along with 2 other larger lens inside the tunnel. There are no part numbers in the service manual for the complete assembly or the two housing halves.Sorry i couldn't find the assembly P/N for you.

Not sure of your model but if you have a 6178 with the L680 engine, the tube you refer to is called "Lens-ILL E4" and is part number BP67-00221A. There is also "Mirror-Light tunnel" which appears to sit at the end of the square tube and it's P/N BP67-00218A along with 2 other larger lens inside the tunnel. There are no part numbers in the service manual for the complete assembly or the two housing halves.Sorry i couldn't find the assembly P/N for you.


I am beginning to wonder if the parts are not labled wrong in the book. The part I need is actually figure 21. It is the four long mirrors arranged in a square. In the book it is called a lens. Figure 18 is called the light tunnel but in reality it is a round lens. The part I ordered is BP67-00218A maybe I should get both to be on the safe side.

edit: I just checked Samsungparts.com and figure 21 (BP67-00211A) is no longer available. The part I ordered is on backorder. If all the light engines we have been getting are refurbs then that would make sense since all they have to change is the tunnel, and they are also on backorder.

Yes the service manual diagram is confusing. I thought that item 21 was what we needed. But item 18 might be the whole assembly. When you talked to them shouldn't they know what we need based on the number of failures? I hope to repair the old LE and keep it ready, even though keeping the LE cost $313. The technician said the DMD board alone is over $700.
Also, note that the 45 degree mirror that reflects the light onto the DMD chip is not shown in the drawing either. I hope that is not what item 18 is! We don't need that one.

Hello,

I'm a new member here, and I was just wondering if the Samsung HL-R5078W 1080p HDTVs support a 1080p Signal through the VGA Input (PC Input)? My Xbox 360 is craving for 1080p, but the Samsung won't accept it through Component Inputs, so VGA Input is my only chance.

At first I connected my XBox 360 to the VGA and it works just fine at 1080p. Finally settled on using the Yamaha 2700 to switch the XBox component to hdmi at 1080i. This worked just and as good as the vga connection. I also had no problem with the component inputs. Not sure what your problem is.

Well, it just won't accept 1080p through the Component Inputs, just 1080i. So, should I just stick with 1080i through Component, or spend $40 on the VGA HD Cables and use 1080p through PC Input? The Samsung Upconverts it to 1080p anyways doesn't it?

By the way, does it lag for you when you play? I notice a little lag...

Well I'm not a gamer and the Xbox is new to me, but some say the lag is too great with component and most are using the VGA connections for that reason. Suggest you use component for a while and see if you notice any lag before you spring for a $40 cable. I was gonna go kill some zombies but my new Light Engine, that was installed yesterday for the shadow problem failed today! WTF! Third Light Engine!

I'll go play some more on it and see if the lag bothers me. Reason why it's not hooked up to the HL-R5078W is because I don't have Xbox Live there.

But you're sure it will accept 1080p through VGA right?

The HLR series will only accept 1080p through the VGA input. HDMI and component will only go up to 1080i.

Ok thanks you.

I just tried my PC on it (1920x1080 @ 60Hz), and there seems to be a black border around the image. Is this normal? If so, will it appear if I hook up another device (Xbox 360), or will I have to adjust it?

In the manual, it says "Wide PC", and it fills the screen 92%. It also says "Wide TV" in the manual, but I can't seem to find that option at all.

Right. 1080P VGA. Works great.

Ok thanks, I might buy the VGA Cable.

I guess this has been posted somewhere but does anyone have the ideal picture settings for the 5087W ???

Thanks much

Trel

I have a 5087W, I have noticed that when the picture jumps back to 4:3 during commercials etc that the two black bars or vertical lines are not straight, I also notice this when using my PC, is there some way to straighten this lines, maybe like a PC monitor adjustment or something else?

Thanks a lot
Trel

At first I connected my XBox 360 to the VGA and it works just fine at 1080p. Finally settled on using the Yamaha 2700 to switch the XBox component to hdmi at 1080i. This worked just and as good as the vga connection. I also had no problem with the component inputs. Not sure what your problem is.

Halco, did the games on the Xbox 360 look fine with the Xbox 360 through VGA? Did you have to calibrate it?

I have a 5087W, I have noticed that when the picture jumps back to 4:3 during commercials etc that the two black bars or vertical lines are not straight, I also notice this when using my PC, is there some way to straighten this lines, maybe like a PC monitor adjustment or something else?

Thanks a lot
Trel

Out of the box Movie mode will give you the best picture.

You cannot do anything for the pincushion or uneven lines for 4:3 material (non widescreen). Thats a problem of this type of TV vs Plasma or LCD.

Halco, did the games on the Xbox 360 look fine with the Xbox 360 through VGA? Did you have to calibrate it?

At first the image was not centered, ie it came within about 1" of the left border. The Samsung PC settings menu allows you to adjust this. But it should fill the screen. Since my Yamaha RX-V2700 did such a good job passing the Xbox components to hdmi at 1080i I haven't gone back to the vga cable. But I'm not a gamer and if there is any lag I am not seeing it. Your milage may vary however. There are many posts on this thread about PC interface and VGA settings. Go back through the data base and search for more info. The zombies in Dead Rising are slow, so I doubt that I would notice any lag. :)

Hi All:

I've been absent from this thread for over a year and a half and enjoying my HLR.

Has Samsung released any upgrades to firmware, hardware for the HRL series? Wouldn't it be nice if they could figure out a way to upgrade to HDMI 1.3.

I was any early buyer of DLP with an HLM set and Samsung actually released a motherboard upgrade during that era.

Duffin, Samsung has not released any updates or anything for either a tech. or end user. Newer manufactured sets have had newer FW dates installed but no one has specifics as to what if anything has been addressed.

Duffin, Samsung has not released any updates or anything for either a tech. or end user. Newer manufactured sets have had newer FW dates installed but no one has specifics as to what if anything has been addressed.

Thanks for the update!

Hi all,

Long time reader, first time poster. I got a 1 year old Samsung HLR-6168W that shuts off when it feels like it. The lamp light keeps blinking and it takes a comple of tries for it to turn back on. Also just 2 weeks ago I got the shadow on the left side of my screen. Thank god I got the extented warranty from Fry's otherwise i would have been SOL. I guess these problems are "normal" for these TVs. This is what I get for being an early adopter.

Hi all,

Long time reader, first time poster. I got a 1 year old Samsung HLR-6168W that shuts off when it feels like it. The lamp light keeps blinking and it takes a comple of tries for it to turn back on. Also just 2 weeks ago I got the shadow on the left side of my screen. Thank god I got the extented warranty from Fry's otherwise i would have been SOL. I guess these problems are "normal" for these TVs. This is what I get for being an early adopter.

The lamp or light engine is faulty. Call for service.

Actually, early adopters should get preferential treatment! :)

Here's a follow up. :mad:
I think the new LE is toast. Today, I turned it on and it worked great for a while then picture went to showing only the right half. Left half black! This is the third LE.
I called the local ASC, who only last Friday replaced the LE for the shadow They said they were going to send a request to SS asking for a replacement set. We will see. I haven't heard of anyone actually getting a new set so far. It's a pain in the butt and I am ready for a new one. Maybe Samsung is throwing in the towel on these lemons!

Halco, that is ridiculous! I don't think that is the LE but the DMD. I think only one person here got a new set and that was with the retailer behind him. I don't remember but I think that happened to someone else here so it might be an issue with the LE install and the DMD.

It may be ridiculous, but the DMD board is a part of the LE. It could well, be the DMD board. It would be unusual for the local ASC to replace just the DMD board under Samsung's warranty. I'm not pushing for a new set, it was their idea. From a practical point of view, it's much cheaper for SS to replace the LE to reduce labor costs, since they are probably paid by the call rather than by the hour. The LE's are all refurbished and sent back out anyway. While the DMD board is suspect, what about the actuator? Does not the actuator wobolate the image of the DMC chip? At any rate the service manual has a symptom bubble chart that that either directs the technician to replace the DMD board or the Digital board depending on the symptoms. It might be beyond the ASC's expertise or cost effectiveness to repair at the board level rather than replacing a LE. Time to replace LE = 15 min. Time to replace DMD and make adjustments = 2 hours or more.

I will let everyone know if they follow through.

It may be ridiculous, but the DMD board is a part of the LE. It could well, be the DMD board. It would be unusual for the local ASC to replace just the DMD board under Samsung's warranty. I'm not pushing for a new set, it was their idea. From a practical point of view, it's much cheaper for SS to replace the LE to reduce labor costs, since they are probably paid by the call rather than by the hour. The LE's are all refurbished and sent back out anyway. While the DMD board is suspect, what about the actuator? Does not the actuator wobolate the image of the DMC chip? At any rate the service manual has a symptom bubble chart that that either directs the technician to replace the DMD board or the Digital board depending on the symptoms. It might be beyond the ASC's expertise or cost effectiveness to repair at the board level rather than replacing a LE. Time to replace LE = 15 min. Time to replace DMD and make adjustments = 2 hours or more.

I will let everyone know if they follow through.


Yes the DMD board is part of the LE assy. MY local replaced my DMD board back in the summer for the shadow problem. I tried to persuade them to just replace the whole LE but they would not listen to me. Believe it or not it fixed the shadow for about 4 months. I now believe that they just banged the set around enough to jar the loose mirror in my light tunnel back into place temporarly.

The HLR series will only accept 1080p through the VGA input. HDMI and component will only go up to 1080i.


Will the 1080p signal work over the hdmi to vga cable? I have the hlr-5678w and I also have a hdmi to vga cable and I was just curious. -Eric

Chucho311, I don't think you can break anything? That would be interesting to see, I didn't know that adapter existed.

.

Chucho311, I don't think you can break anything? That would be interesting to see, I didn't know that adapter existed.
I'm sorry I have an hdmi todvi.....My bad. But I looked on ebay and the have a HDMI to VGA converter box and all you do is hook the cables to it.

Just type "hdmi to vga" in the ebay search.


Anyone know if this will work for 1080p?

Chucho311, I don't think any of those boxes work. There might be one person here who found one that works? I would only buy one with a great return policy. Now that I think of it the issue is the difference between a video signal and PC. BTW, VGA/DVI don't work either. I jumped when you mentioned HDMI since they are both p. I thought we were that much closer. lol.

Chucho311, I don't think any of those boxes work. There might be one person here who found one that works? I would only buy one with a great return policy. Now that I think of it the issue is the difference between a video signal and PC. BTW, VGA/DVI don't work either. I jumped when you mentioned HDMI since they are both p. I thought we were that much closer. lol.

BCPV: I have been reading and I noticed that 1080p only works with the VGA cable for the Sammy HL-R5678W. It only reads 1080i with the hdmi. I have not found a configuration to get to 1080p for the blu-ray players and ps3's and such unless it is through a vga cable. I thought dvi is better than vga? can a 1080p signal go through a hdmi to dvi cable? any ideas would be great.

Thanks -Eric

I think you fellas are much too concerned with the P vs i thing. If the TV deinterlaces properly (and the samsung does) there is no difference between progressive versus interlaced. If you have a 1080P source (such as a blu-ray player) the only concern is that the player must interlace the signal then the tv must deinterlace it. It does add some processing to the signal, but it's relatively simple processing and shouldn't add any artifacts to the signal. The signal quantity and quality is the same, only the manner it is presented is different.

At the end of the day, you've bought a TV that pretty much only accepts an interlaced signal. Don't bother jumping thru hoops trying to force a progressive input through the vga port, you'll only end up being disappointed.

Hi all,

I have a HLR5668 that I purchase through TVA at launch.. I had the lamp go out at about 2500 hours. It was still under warranty, so Samsung replaced it for free. A few weeks ago, the lamp went out again, and I’m guessing at around the same time frame.

The TV is no longer under the factory warranty but I received a replacement bulb through my Warrentech extended warranty.

So yesterday I install the bulb but it doesn’t work. After powering up the TV, the lamp LED starts blink and I can hear what I assume to be the cooling fan start to rev up. The fan is loud and seems to be varying in speed. I’ve never heard the fan this loud before. After maybe 15 to 20 seconds, the TV makes a clicking sound, the fan turns off and back on. The TV does this maybe once more time before it turns off and the 3 LEDs start to blink. The lamp never seems to power up. I also tried the old lamp and the behavior is the same.

I doubt the new lamp is bad unless something in the TV caused it to fail at power up. The lamp shows no sign of damage and it’s the same model as the old one. Does anyone have an idea of what the problem might be? Is there some kind of thermostat that controls when the fan comes on? I also noticed that there’s a door switch where you access the bulb. It doesn’t appear to be damaged. I also had the TV unplugged for the 3 weeks or so it took to get a replacement bulb, could this have had any affect?

I plan on calling Warrentech after work and hopefully I can get a tech to come out in a reasonable time frame but I was hoping to have some idea of the problem.

Thanks

Edit: I made a mistake when I first posted this. The 1080p signals were done with a borrowed Sencore signal generator, not the HDG-3000 that I own.

I have played around quite a bit (and, still do not understand everything) with the VGA port of my HL-R5678 and various methods for getting a 1080p signal into it. I have succeeded with only two sources – my Dell portable computer (both DVI and VGA outputs) and a Crystallio II video processor.

I have used a Sencore 401 Video Signal Generator as a source for 1080p signals over RGBHV, component and DVI outputs with various cable adapters (e.g., RGBHV to VGA, DVI to VGA, Component to VGA) and a couple of Component to VGA conversion boxes that claimed 1080p compatibility. None of these were successful. After discussing this on the PMS forum, we reached the conclusion that the VGA input on the HL-R is rather persnickety. It is designed to expect a “complete” VGA signal as from a computer and all of the mentioned devices/adapters leave something out. I tried one Component to VGA conversion box that claimed to output a “complete VGA signal” but it also did not work. (I had thought that an RGBHV output signal was the same as a VGA signal, except with a different connector type. I found out there is a bit more to it.)

I eventually tried a Crystallio II Video Processor that outputs 1080p over Component, HDMI and RGBHV using adapter cables to the VGA port of the HL-R. For example, I tried HDMI port to DVI/VGA cable to VGA port. Interestingly, nothing initially worked at 1080p. The HL-R VGA port would not accept the standard 1080p signal from the C II. I eventually got the VGA port to work by using an RGBHV to VGA cable and developing a custom 1080p resolution for the C II to output. The HL-R VGA port is evidently very sensitive to horizontal frequency when connected to anything but a computer via the VGA port. After all of this, it turns out that the HL-R was evidently designed to have most of the video parameters on the VGA input controlled from the computer’s video card. For example, the typical controls for setting gray scale that are available for all other inputs on the HL-R are not “readily” available on the VGA input. I’m still working to perfect the picture using the C II. At this point, I would say that the PQ is better (more 3-D like, more punch) than the HDMI connection but unless you are a true (and somewhat unbalanced) videophile, it would be impossible to justify the cost/benefit ratio.

BTW, I do not want to start an argument, but…. This is just my opinion based on my own research and asking a lot of questions. I do not believe the HL-R models do a reverse telecine 3:2 pull down on a 1080i signal to the panel. I know it does so for a 480i signal but seriously doubt it does so for a 1080i signal. FWIW.

Thanks Don!!!!! -Eric

I have played around quite a bit (and, still do not understand everything) with the VGA port of my HL-R5678 and various methods for getting a 1080p signal into it. I have succeeded with only two sources – my Dell portable computer (both DVI and VGA outputs) and a Crystallio II video processor.

I have used an HDG-3000 Video Calibration Generator as a source for 1080p signals over RGBHV, component and DVI outputs with various cable adapters (e.g., RGBHV to VGA, DVI to VGA, Component to VGA) and a couple of Component to VGA conversion boxes that claimed 1080p compatibility. None of these were successful. After discussing this on the PMS forum, we reached the conclusion that the VGA input on the HL-R is rather persnickety. It is designed to expect a “complete” VGA signal as from a computer and all of the mentioned devices/adapters leave something out. I tried one Component to VGA conversion box that claimed to output a “complete VGA signal” but it also did not work. (I had thought that an RGBHV output signal was the same as a VGA signal, except with a different connector type. I found out there is a bit more to it.)

I eventually tried a Crystallio II Video Processor that outputs 1080p over Component, HDMI and RGBHV using adapter cables to the VGA port of the HL-R. For example, I tried HDMI port to DVI/VGA cable to VGA port. Interestingly, nothing initially worked at 1080p. The HL-R VGA port would not accept the standard 1080p signal from the C II. I eventually got the VGA port to work by using an RGBHV to VGA cable and developing a custom 1080p resolution for the C II to output. The HL-R VGA port is evidently very sensitive to horizontal frequency when connected to anything but a computer via the VGA port. After all of this, it turns out that the HL-R was evidently designed to have most of the video parameters on the VGA input controlled from the computer’s video card. For example, the typical controls for setting gray scale that are available for all other inputs on the HL-R are not “readily” available on the VGA input. I’m still working to perfect the picture using the C II. At this point, I would say that the PQ is better (more 3-D like, more punch) than the HDMI connection but unless you are a true (and somewhat unbalanced) videophile, it would be impossible to justify the cost/benefit ratio.

BTW, I do not want to start an argument, but…. This is just my opinion based on my own research and asking a lot of questions. I do not believe the HL-R models do a reverse telecine 3:2 pull down on a 1080i signal to the panel. I know it does so for a 480i signal but seriously doubt it does so for a 1080i signal. FWIW.

Thanks for the great experience! Do you think an hdmi to dvi cable will work for a 1080p signal? such as a hdmi out from a ps3/xbox to and dvi input on the sammy's?

Thanks for the great experience! Do you think an hdmi to dvi cable will work for a 1080p signal? such as a hdmi out from a ps3/xbox to and dvi input on the sammy's?No, not on the HL-R models. Only the VGA port on the HL-R models is spec'd to handle a 1080p signal. Out of curiosity, I actually tried putting a 1080p signal through all of the inputs on the Sammy (using the C II as the source). I can confirm it does not work.

No, not on the HL-R models. Only the VGA port on the HL-R models is spec'd to handle a 1080p signal. Out of curiosity, I actually tried putting a 1080p signal through all of the inputs on the Sammy (using the C II as the source). I can confirm it does not work.

Hi Don,
Thanks for all your hard work on this topic. I also have the HLR series (56in). At this point, would you suggest that buying a 1080P dvd for this tv a waste of money? I have been thinking about buying a 1080P dvd, but I am not sure if I will enventually end up feeding the tv 720P. I would love to get your input on how to get the best PQ out of the HLR series.

Thanks,

Fubdap

Hi Don,
At this point, would you suggest that buying a 1080P dvd for this tv a waste of money? ... I would love to get your input on how to get the best PQ out of the HLR series.Sorry, but, I do not have a definitive response to either of these questions.

In regard to HD-DVD players, over in the HL-S forum, Eliab (one of the pro-calibrators) swears by the Toshiba HD-DVD player as providing the best PQ for standard DVDs. I do not know if the Toshiba can use the VGA port of the HL-R. If it can, and the best PQ is your goal, then the HD-DVD might not be a waste of money for you. Your best bet for info on this is probably the HD-DVD forum and someone who actually owns a player and the HL-R.

I'm still doing a heck-of-a-lot of tweaking and re-tweaking to the point where my wife swears I prefer tweaking to watching the thing. I really can not provide settings that I would say gives the best PQ.

As previously noted, I believe that I got the best PQ inputting 1080p to the VGA port but the cost was prohibitive. I have not seen significant differences is PQ between using the Component and HDMI inputs. (Though, when there was a difference, the Component input looked slightly better to me.) All of my user parameters are set to default and I do all tweaking in the SM. Contrast is set via the service menu to just below white crush and coloration. Brightness is set to eliminate dithering on a black screen. I control the over all brightness of the panel by stepping down the iris. Currently, it's set to yield about 60 - 70 fL for standard mode and 30 to 35 fL for Movie mode. I keep jumping back and forth between Gamma = 0 and Gamma = 2. For my setup, Gamma = 2 yields the most accurate gamma curve but causes some weirdness (splotchiness?) in dark scenes particularly with 480i TV broadcast/cable sources. Generally, I watch movies in Movie mode and everything else in Standard mode. I'm constantly playing with the Grey Scale in the hope of getting the best blacks without even a hint of green.

Overall, I'm still experimenting and learning. I made some changes a couple of nights ago and decided last night that I really don't like what I'm seeing. So, today, I'll make other changes. and it keeps on going...

Hello all,
I'm hoping to get a general consensus or just a few opinions on the resale value of these TVs. I own a 5668, and (gasp) think I'm ready to move on. Between the LE swap I've already done and the multiples we'll probably all be doing in the future, I'm concerned I have 56 inches of dead weight. Spectacular set under the right conditions, but...

So, my question to the group: If you absolutely, positively had to sell your set (on a local pickup basis), what would your asking price be? I fear I already know the dreaded answer (not much).

Thanks in advance,
marc in minneapolis

Hi Everyone,

Can anyone recommend a retailer in San Francisco that sells lamps for the HLR50x8 model?

@Donb1948 - The Xbox 360 over VGA w/ the Add-on HD-DVD player is great, IMO. I think the Xbox HD-DVD player was designed to be used in VGA mode, as you get additional features you don't get if it is not used in VGA mode (such as up scaling standard DVDs). The Xbox 360 will give you optical audio out as well.

Cheers.

Sorry, but, I do not have a definitive response to either of these questions.

In regard to HD-DVD players, over in the HL-S forum, Eliab (one of the pro-calibrators) swears by the Toshiba HD-DVD player as providing the best PQ for standard DVDs. I do not know if the Toshiba can use the VGA port of the HL-R. If it can, and the best PQ is your goal, then the HD-DVD might not be a waste of money for you. Your best bet for info on this is probably the HD-DVD forum and someone who actually owns a player and the HL-R.

I'm still doing a heck-of-a-lot of tweaking and re-tweaking to the point where my wife swears I prefer tweaking to watching the thing. I really can not provide settings that I would say gives the best PQ.

As previously noted, I believe that I got the best PQ inputting 1080p to the VGA port but the cost was prohibitive. I have not seen significant differences is PQ between using the Component and HDMI inputs. (Though, when there was a difference, the Component input looked slightly better to me.) All of my user parameters are set to default and I do all tweaking in the SM. Contrast is set via the service menu to just below white crush and coloration. Brightness is set to eliminate dithering on a black screen. I control the over all brightness of the panel by stepping down the iris. Currently, it's set to yield about 60 - 70 fL for standard mode and 30 to 35 fL for Movie mode. I keep jumping back and forth between Gamma = 0 and Gamma = 1. For my setup, Gamma =1 yields the most accurate gamma curve but causes some weirdness (splotchiness?) in dark scenes particularly with 480i TV broadcast/cable sources. Generally, I watch movies in Movie mode and everything else in Standard mode. I'm constantly playing with the Grey Scale in the hope of getting the best blacks without even a hint of green.

Overall, I'm still experimenting and learning. I made some changes a couple of nights ago and decided last night that I really don't like what I'm seeing. So, today, I'll make other changes. and it keeps on going...

Don,
Thanks for your insight. As usual, you went the exra mile with your explanation. I appreciate that.

At this point, I think I will just feed my HLR 720p signal and let the tv upscale to 1080P.

Fubdap

2mutch, I have no idea but if you had an extended that was transferable like the TVA one then I think that would help a lot to keep the value higher than one without. I don't see why the depreciation would be any different from any other HDTV or similar electronic. I thought most sold for 50% but I know of people getting %80 for their computers without any warranty.

You might try Craigslist so there isn't any issue with removing the auction or whatever and make it for cash, pickup, as is with the warranty if you have one. You could test the ads high and see how many nibble. lol. I think a lot of this is timing. One week you might get a lot of takers.

Benlong, are you sure you're out of warranty? There have been about three people here recently who were sure they only needed a lamp and it ended up being something else needing service. After knowing what happened to them if I need a lamp I'm calling for service. lol. You're supposed to get the three LED warnings which some didn't mention if they got that or not. I would think its the lamp if you get the three LEDs?

Fubdap, I think the jury's still out if you're considering a HD/BR DVD. If I were to get a player now it would the combo ones that are due out. I think you're right that the set does a great job scaling and I'd hold off getting another DVD. My cheapo DVD recorder looks great considering. lol.

In regard to HD-DVD players, over in the HL-S forum, Eliab (one of the pro-calibrators) swears by the Toshiba HD-DVD player as providing the best PQ for standard DVDs. I do not know if the Toshiba can use the VGA port of the HL-R. If it can, and the best PQ is your goal, then the HD-DVD might not be a waste of money for you. Your best bet for info on this is probably the HD-DVD forum and someone who actually owns a player and the HL-R.


For what it's worth I own an HLR5078 and a Toshiba HD A1. The Tosh A1 is somewhat quirky but I seem to have a good one, I'm not seeing some of the problems other owners are reporting. In general it is sluggish and does not have resume on HD DVD, my two pet peeves.

That said, these two are happily married in my family. :D HD DVD PQ is awesome. The player can only output 1080i. It also will not upscale protected SD DVD discs on component, you must use HDMI. I would go with HDMI inputs but beware that an HDMI cable is not included. The audio if properly connected is like nothing you have heard before.

Heres the details:

So far, all movies in either the HD or Blu ray are presented in OAR. If you are used to full screen movies, you find a lot of the movies in 2:35.1 which puts black bars on the top and bottom. Takes some time to get used to IMO but later becomes not such a big deal. Also, about a 1/3 of the movies are in 1:85.1 and will fill the entire screen (except for a small, barely noticable bars top/bottom) if overscan is turned off. Won't notice it other wise.

I have a set that was calibrated by Eliab using the Tosh A1 as an input so I don't see some of the black crush and colorspace problems others see. (Note: I do not know how severe these problems are, you'll need to do your own research). With this setup I can say some titles are the best HD experiance I have ever seen or heard. King Kong is a perfect example. It is beatifully shot and the studio (Univeral) obviously took their time in creating the transfer. Artifacts that you normally see in broadcast HD is if not totally eliminated, is nearly non-existant even in dark scenes.

This is also the best upscaling DVD player I have ever seen! Just the other night I watched The Island in SD and at times I swear I was watching a HD presentation. This has also held up for other titles I have tried. Don't know why this is so, but I was very pleasantly surpised.

Using the analog outs on the A1 you can get lossless sound. There is an audio format called TrueHD. It's not on every disc, but it is very, very cool. You get 5.1 lossless surround sound that is IMO is crisper and more detailed than anything I have heard before.

If you have an HDMI receiver then I would get the HD A2. It is reportly more stable than the A1 and the A2 does not have analog outs. It is still 1080i and even though it is second generation, typically sells for less than the A1 propably due to the lack of analog outs.

If you want to future proof your player (with the format wars still raging can you really future proof?) the XA2 has analog outs and 1080p (and of course 1080i) output. It'll cost ya though.

I personnaly would not worry about 1080i. Let the TV do the deinterlacing unless you happen to own a TV that accepts 1080p over HDMI.

FYI: The LG has announce a dual format, single drive player that supposed will ship 2nd quarter with a msrp ~$1300.00.

Benlong, are you sure you're out of warranty? There have been about three people here recently who were sure they only needed a lamp and it ended up being something else needing service. After knowing what happened to them if I need a lamp I'm calling for service. lol. You're supposed to get the three LED warnings which some didn't mention if they got that or not. I would think its the lamp if you get the three LEDs?


I am under warranty until mid-March. I still have picture, but the picture has become dim. Thanks for your advice - I will call for service because I believe a LE exchange is in order as well =o)

- Ben

I have an HLR6168 and an HDA1. I also have King Kong in HD & SD. You have to really look to see the quality difference in the HD version. The difference is there, but at my regular viewing distance of 13' I can't see it. If I get up and look at the screen at about 4 or 5 feet, I can see a difference. I like the upscaled pic on the Toshiba better than the upscaled picture on my OPPO971.

Well, I just got my third "bulb warning" light today on my HL-R 5688W. Funny thing is, the picture still looks good (although the color is changing somewhat) so I'll use the 'wait and see' approach to see just how long it will last. Lamp Life is now 6008 hours. I have a spare bulb on hand so even if it dies during the Super Bowl, I won't miss too much:)

I have to wonder what triggers the warning. The first one was on 11/05/06, the second warning exactly 3 weeks later, and the third exactly 6 weeks after that (today).

At least now we know that it does not die suddenly without warning, so no need to pay for next-day delivery when you do have to order one.

I have a spare bulb on hand so even if it dies during the Super Bowl, I won't miss too much:)Ugh...? How do you know the spare is good? ;) (Pessimism - 2b: the doctrine that evil overbalances happiness in life. :eek: )

I've been lurking for quite a while and reading as many posts as I can on several forums ... but the lengths of some of these threads is really overwhelming ==> so I apologize in advance if any or all of these questions have been addressed ... but I'd appreciate OWNERS thoughts on the following specific areas (I really wish there were more PICTURES on these forums).

I'd love to simply post this once and get feedback on numerous sets with regard to these areas; but since the threads are focused on specific sets I'm posting it in each of the threads for the sets I'm interested in (Sony SXRD, JVC, Samsung, and Mitsubishi) and I'll do my own comparisions. In this case, the sets I'm very interested in are the HLS-6167 and HLS-6767 (which are basically the same except for screen size).

I've made many visits to local stores (both mass marketers and high-end A/V stores) and have the following general thoughts:

=> Virtually all of the 1080p sets look wonderful with good HD material. I'm much more interested in how they look with SD (480i) material using the set's processing (not expensive outboard processors). I'd appreciate comments and PICTURES of how well the HLS-6x67 sets display a cable feed through coax (i.e. using the TV's tuner) and a standard DVD picture played through a standard 480i DVD player through s-video.

=> MANY sets have major problems displaying a PC input at full screen. Since I plan to use a HTPC as a "super-TIVO" and video server this is a major issue for me. I know from comments in this forum and from several reviews that the VGA input accepts 1080p input, but I understand there is a bit of an overscan issue. Is this the same if you use the HDMI input ... there simply don't seem to be many confirmations of this in the forum. I'd definitely appreciate feedback from those who have connected to a PC and are getting full screen displays (I presume through HDMI) ... again with PICTURES, and with full details (video card used, resolution, refresh rate, etc.).

=> MANY sets (especially Samsungs in my experience) do NOT display a rectangular 4:3 picture ... the sidebars have notable pincushioning on them. Since we watch a fair amount of 4:3 SD material, this is another important characteristic. Is this issue fixable? ... or is it a design defect of the Samsung optics? If you're getting a perfect 4:3 box, please post some pictures and your specific model number ==> if not, I'd appreciate feedback to confirm that.

Garycase2001, this is the HLR forum, not HLS! lol. The VGA works great on this set for a PC connection, only VGA is possible. I thought the pincushion was common on all DLPs?

Ugh...? How do you know the spare is good? ;) (Pessimism - 2b: the doctrine that evil overbalances happiness in life. :eek: )

Lol, good point!

I don't know if you've read my earlier posts, but about a week after I received the bulb back in November, it occurred to me to that it looked a little different from the pics I've seen. So I compared it to the one in the tv and sure enough it was the wrong bulb, even though the part number was correct.

I called Samung parts (J&J) and at first they assured me it was the correct part and that I just needed to try harder installing it. I explained how the original bulb housing was a triangle shape, and the one they sent me was a rectangular box shape. After some muttering and page flipping on his end he admits it's the wrong bulb, that the Samsung database part number is incorrect, and exchanged it for the right one.

But I guess I still need to actually try it to make sure it works:)

bcvp => Whoops! I'll post the same thing in the HL-S forum :)
... as for the pincushioning, of the 4 sets I'm focusing on, only 2 are DLP's (Samsung & Mitsubishi) => and the Mits does NOT have the pincushioning with a 4:3 display (or at least it's nowhere near as noticeable as the Samsungs). At first I thought it was in the "no big deal" category ... but having noticed it, the more I look at it the more obvious it seems. The other 2 sets I'm considering (Sony A2000 & the 61" JVC) are LCOS sets and appear to have "perfect" optics => the 4:3 displays are razor-straight on the edges.

No, not on the HL-R models. Only the VGA port on the HL-R models is spec'd to handle a 1080p signal. Out of curiosity, I actually tried putting a 1080p signal through all of the inputs on the Sammy (using the C II as the source). I can confirm it does not work.

Don-- I have been trying to search for this answer and I noticed that you have done very intense research into getting a 1080 signal. am I pretty muched screwed in getting a 1080 siganl out if this TV? It seems that the only way can get a vga hookup is with a ps3 or an x-box or connect a pc. I would like to get a blu-ray player but they only have hdmi and component. Is there any way to get a 1080p to a sammy hlr with a vga cable from a blu-ray dvd player to enjoy 1080p?

Is there any way to get a 1080p to a sammy hlr with a vga cable from a blu-ray dvd player to enjoy 1080p? Don't know anything about Blu-Ray players (never had an interest :eek: ), and thus can only respond, "don't know."

As previously noted, I was able to get excellent PQ using the Crystalio II to deinterlace and scale to 1080p. But, the C II costs more than the probable resale of both our HL-Rs together! Some of the lower priced external video processors should be able to provide a 1080p signal but your guess is as good as mine as to whether the HL-R would produce a good picture.

Getting the 1080p signal into th eVGA port is just the start of the battle. Next comes, getting the good PQ. This is not simple and requires special equipment. Calilbrating the VGA port is not the same as any of the other ports. I'm still not sure of exactly how the varous controls interact. At times, I swear the display has gemlins that change things after I set them just to get me PO'd.

I'm approaching the point where I bellieve the HL-R is not worth the effort to get a 1080p signal via VGA except for the devices you mentioned. The cheapest way to get 1080p might be to wait a couple of months (think new models in Spring) and then buy an HL-S (2006 model). I guarantee someone will be "giving" them away.

Would you consider the HL-S series much improved over our HL-R sets, except for the 1080p thing? Or did SS cut some corners on the new models?

Don-- I have been trying to search for this answer and I noticed that you have done very intense research into getting a 1080 signal. am I pretty muched screwed in getting a 1080 siganl out if this TV? It seems that the only way can get a vga hookup is with a ps3 or an x-box or connect a pc. I would like to get a blu-ray player but they only have hdmi and component. Is there any way to get a 1080p to a sammy hlr with a vga cable from a blu-ray dvd player to enjoy 1080p?

Even if you get 1080P to work with Blu Ray you still have the problem of the 3:2 pulldown. This happens because most film is shot at 24fps and the HLR set you have can only display at 30fps. To technically get the best posssible picture you need to have a TV that supports the scan rates necessary to do 24fps AND you must buy a Blu Ray player that can output at 24fps.

IMO: Don't worry about 1080p. Use the 1080i setting. It's still better than SD DVD and broadcast HD.

Would you consider the HL-S series much improved over our HL-R sets, except for the 1080p thing? Or did SS cut some corners on the new models?I have not spent much time with an HL-S and do not have an opinion at this point. Eliab has posted in the HL-S forum that he believes the HL-S is superior in overall PQ and in the technology. For example, Differences Btwn HL-S & HL-R (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8016487&&#post8016487) . OTOH, UMR, another pro calibrator, gives the PQ edge to the HL-Rs: UMR comment (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8015713&&#post8015713) FWIW.

To technically get the best posssible picture you need to have a TV that supports the scan rates necessary to do 24fps ... And, at this point there are no consumer RPTV displays that can do this. There is also a discussion in one of the 2007 Samsung threads as to whether it's technically possible to accomplish this on a wobulated dlp set.

BTW, displaying the reverse telecined 3:2 pull down film source at 30fps, instead of a multiple of 24 fps, leads to what I believe is referred to as "judder." Some people are very sensitive to judder. But, most folks can not tell the difference without "training."

And, at this point there are no consumer RPTV displays that can do this. There is also a discussion in one of the 2007 Samsung threads as to whether it's technically possible to accomplish this on a wobulated dlp set.

BTW, displaying the reverse telecined 3:2 pull down film source at 30fps, instead of a multiple of 24 fps, leads to what I believe is referred to as "judder." Some people are very sensitive to judder. But, most folks can not tell the difference without "training."

Or if you're european. ;)

This stuff is getting so complicated. Question for you Don:
I've read about the 24fps BD players and with a future upgrade, the XA2 will supposedly do 24fps also. As I NOW understand it, they take the 3:2 signal from the disc, interlace it, remove the extra frame and then deinterlace the signal to get a smoother picture 1080p signal. Therefore, the best we can get with a RPTV is this interpolated signal from the DVD player. Is this correct or do these players really do 24fps and you need to change technology (i.e front projector/crt/whatever) to take advantage of it?

I know this is getting quite esoteric and I hope this is not viewed as thread hijacking.

Problem: False contouring problems on Samsung HL-R6768W (cross post - just found this thread)

All - appreciate reading your comments on Samsung DLPs, so I'm hoping someone out there has the same set as mine Samsung HL-R6768W DLP and can comment on horrible problems I'm having with "false contouring" and "oversaturation in fleshtones" (happens all over the place, but especially noticable in very dark areas and faces).


1. Do any of you who own or have calibrated Samsung HL-R6768W DLP sets see pretty consistent false contouring and oversaturation from any input source? (HDTV via HDMI, HD DVD + Xbox 360 via VGA @ 1080p)

2. If so, what can be done about it? (tweak internal settings, get external box, etc.) Are the chips in this 1 yr old set too slow? Will this improve over time?

3. I'm really visually picky, so am I going to just have to live with macroblocking or will it get better over time once HD broadcasts get better comp/decomp?



Here's the background:

- Samsung HL-R6768W DLP purchased from Circuit City 32 days ago
- floor model, so heavily reduced price (let's say half of what you'd expect)
- brand new Light Engine and Lamp, replaced two weeks ago
- not calibrated yet - using new LE factory settings; but have a calibration scheduled in two weeks
- HDTV via HDMI-HDMI @ 1080i, also have Component hooked up (same problems though)
- HD DVD + Xbox 360 via VGA @ 1080p
- Decent HDMI cable, no adapters or video switching through my Denon 1906


Thanks for an insight here. I'm going insane because some HD broadcasts are just stunning even with out of the box settings on this DLP, but others are so bad because of false contouring, oversaturation and macroblocking I want to return the set (but I'm a few days over the 30 return period).

I know this model is a lemon parts-wise from all the owner posts on this forum about LEs needed to be replaced on a regular basis - but the price was so low I could deal with that if only I could figure out how to eliminate the false contouring and oversaturation dragging down the PQ.

Any specific service menu tweak suggestions would be appreciated (i've been in there and have the original settings in hardcopy).

Thanks!
M. Pell

1. Is it a good idea to purchase a HL-R6768W Service Manual if I plan on calibrating/tweaking my set over time?

2. Would it help a pro calib to have one on hand?

3. What's in there that I can use as a non-EE? (factory service menu settings, explanations of the individual setttings, just a bunch of schematics?)

thanks!
M. Pell

1. Is it a good idea to purchase a HL-R6768W Service Manual if I plan on calibrating/tweaking my set over time?

2. Would it help a pro calib to have one on hand?

3. What's in there that I can use as a non-EE? (factory service menu settings, explanations of the individual setttings, just a bunch of schematics?)

thanks!
M. Pell

Why pay for what is free: :D

http://www.samsung.com/support/productsupport/download/Model_Select.aspx?type=TV&typecode=1&subtype=Projection&cmssubtypecode=103&model=HL-R6768W&filetype=UM

I think Mike is looking for the Service Manual, not the User Manual. I bought one from Samsung for my 7178. The phone number to call is in this thread (don't have it with me right now).

I'm not sure what you mean by "false contouring". Can you expain?

My set showed posterization in low light scenes with slow or subtle light level changes; they showed up as very discete steps. I was able to fix it by adjusting the index delay in the service menu (also in this thread). I'm not sure if that's the problem your having though Mike.

Cary

Or if you're european. ;)

This stuff is getting so complicated. Question for you Don:
I've read about the 24fps BD players and with a future upgrade, the XA2 will supposedly do 24fps also. As I NOW understand it, they take the 3:2 signal from the disc, interlace it, remove the extra frame and then deinterlace the signal to get a smoother picture 1080p signal. Therefore, the best we can get with a RPTV is this interpolated signal from the DVD player. Is this correct or do these players really do 24fps and you need to change technology (i.e front projector/crt/whatever) to take advantage of it?

I know this is getting quite esoteric and I hope this is not viewed as thread hijacking.Ooops... forgot about the Europeans and others using the 50 cycle stuff. Can not respond to the Blu-Ray question. I have really ignored the Blu-Ray stuff and know little about the technology. In regard to this comment "Therefore, the best we can get with a RPTV is this interpolated signal from the DVD player," I have read that if the film to disk transfer is done well and the reverse telecine 3:2 pull down is done properly, a high def dvd movie in 1080i would be indistinguishable from "true" 1080p disk. FWIW.

My set showed posterization in low light scenes with slow or subtle light level changes;Cary... I'm still fighting this, especially for SD cable sources. I have tried various settings of index delay (following the procedure in the service manual and then tweaking) without the success I'd anticipated. I know that index delay settings are probably unique for each color wheel, but out of curiosity, what setting are you using? Also, what value of gamma are you using? Thanks.

I have an HLR6168 and an HDA1. I also have King Kong in HD & SD. You have to really look to see the quality difference in the HD version. The difference is there, but at my regular viewing distance of 13' I can't see it. If I get up and look at the screen at about 4 or 5 feet, I can see a difference. I like the upscaled pic on the Toshiba better than the upscaled picture on my OPPO971.

You may want to make sure you are outputting 1080i on the HDA1.

I have the HLR6168, HDA1, and 3 versions of King Kong (2 disc orginal, 3 disc extended, and the HDDVD)

King Kong is one movie that the difference is mind blowing.
Don't compare close up face details, look at long shots.
There is a scene where a T-Rex is circling in the background and you can make out every single bump and ridge in its skin. The detail is amazing and can't be reproduced on the SD. Look at the detail in Kong's fur in close ups.

Oh BTW, I have been posting in this thread since Sept 05 when I first purchased my HLR6168.
After last night, add me to the left side shadow group.
This may be the last Samsung set I ever buy.

I think Mike is looking for the Service Manual, not the User Manual. I bought one from Samsung for my 7178. The phone number to call is in this thread (don't have it with me right now).

Yes correct Cary, I was asking about the service manual. Sounds like it coudn't hurt to have one, just curious if its mainly diagrams or if they explain alot about the SM and troubleshooting.


I'm not sure what you mean by "false contouring". Can you expain?

My set showed posterization in low light scenes with slow or subtle light level changes; they showed up as very discete steps. I was able to fix it by adjusting the index delay in the service menu (also in this thread). I'm not sure if that's the problem your having though Mike.

By "false contouring" I mean there are patches of color within people's faces and dark backgrounds that are blobshaped and distinct and differ in color from the surrounding colors. In other words, I'm not getting smooth gradients in color, but hard divisions of color blobs. In Photoshop terms you may think of this as extreme oversaturation or solarization. Perhaps that name comes from the notion of "contour maps" in grade school where a mountain is built out of various shapes on top of each other. In any event, it really ruins the watching experience and its in every input source (HDTV via HDMI, HD DVD via the Xbox 360 VGA cable for 1080p).

Again, no pro calibration yet (coming soon) but its killing me for now so I wanted to see if there was anything quick I could try in the SM.

thanks again.
M. Pell

Mike, that sounds like what I was seeing as well. Search this thread for index delay and you'll find instructions for adjusting it. It worked for me.

I don't remember what I had set mine to (or what my gamma is set to - but I remember that I did change it) so I'll have to check later.

I bought the service manual in hopes of being able to calibrate the color. I have the equipment to measure color temperature and wanted to be able to calibrate it myself. I haven't figured it out yet! I'm used to calibrating CRT front projectors - cutoff and gain for each color and you're set; this is a different animal :) I like having the service manual anyway though.

Cary

Ooops... forgot about the Europeans and others using the 50 cycle stuff. Can not respond to the Blu-Ray question. I have really ignored the Blu-Ray stuff and know little about the technology. In regard to this comment "Therefore, the best we can get with a RPTV is this interpolated signal from the DVD player," I have read that if the film to disk transfer is done well and the reverse telecine 3:2 pull down is done properly, a high def dvd movie in 1080i would be indistinguishable from "true" 1080p disk. FWIW.
Hey Don, Just an FYI (you may already know this).

Looks like your right about there being no RP DLP able to do 24fps. However, TI has released a chip for projectors that has 2046/1080 pixels (however, only uses 1920 however in the horizontal) and can do 24fps (48 hz) and is being put into front projectors. No announcement on RP's that I can see. (Sound familiar, 1080p chips were release first on RPs then sold on FPs, hope the reverse happens here.)

There are some displays notably the Pioneer plasmas that can do 24fps (3:3) pulldown now. As far as DVD players go, with a firmware update the Tosh XA2 will also be able to output 24fps (3:3) pull down so HD DVD will have this feature. There are also several BD players that offer this as well.

Point is, technology is moving along. The majority of HD material we are now viewing is the WORST HD we will see. Over time, it WILL get better. And IMO it's not bad right now.

BTW: When I bought my 5078 I knew at some point I would replace it. Its still years away before I plan to do so, but some of the stuff coming out in the next year look awfully enticing.

I haven't figured it out yet! ... Cary... Have you seen this article: Calibrating White Balance on Samsung DLP RPTVs with the Sencore CP5000 ColorPro Color Analyzer (http://www.sencore.com/newsletter/July06/SamsungDLP_RPTVwhtbal.htm). If you have not, a warning is in order. THIS ARTICLE IS NOT ENTIRELY CORRECT. The part about setting color gamut is pretty much correct except that the menu is different for HL-R and using the "WB Spread" is not necessary or even desirable. You do need to exit the CCA sub-menu after setting a particular color to have the new parameter become active.

The section on white balance or gray scale is more problematic. I believe most, if not all, of it is incorrect right down to the identifying the wrong controls for tuning the gray scale. Eliab's comment of the article was that because of lack of details and some blatant errors, you'd be advised to not follow this procedure as written. (Eliab declined to be more specific, as would be expected since information/know how is his livelihood.) With the Service Manual, reading most of the calibration threads, asking a lot of questions and trial and error, I think I have the essentials worked out.

Thank you Don! I'll give this a try again and consult the service manual as well. I've got the Colorfacts software with the Eye-one. Good hardware but I just haven't made the transition to digital sets yet (as far as calibration goes anyway).

Cary

Hi Guys,
I was reading through the promotional literature that came with my 2005 TV. Below is an extract from that:

Samsung Cinema Smooth™
1080p Gen-6 HD light engine:
- Full HD 1920 x 1080p digital format converter
for all inputs


What does that mean "Full HD 1920 x 1080p digital format converter
for all inputs"

Thanks.

What does that mean "Full HD 1920 x 1080p digital format converter for all inputs" What ever signal the panel receives (480i, 720p, 1080i) on which ever input (svideo, composite, component, hdmi, dvi or vga), it is converted to 1080p (1920 x 1080 pixels, progressive format) before it is displayed.

OT: Just got back from a concert featuring Edger Meyer (Double Bass) and Chris Thile (Mandolin). Odd, but most impressive!. A must see (hear) if you get a chance.

What ever signal the panel receives (480i, 720p, 1080i) on which ever input (svideo, composite, component, hdmi, dvi or vga), it is converted to 1080p (1920 x 1080 pixels, progressive format) before it is displayed.

OT: Just got back from a concert featuring Edger Meyer (Double Bass) and Chris Thile (Mandolin). Odd, but most impressive!. A must see (hear) if you get a chance.
Actually 960 X 1080. On these sets the signal is "wobulated". The newer TI chips will do a full 1920 X1080 without wobulation.

Mike, that sounds like what I was seeing as well. Search this thread for index delay and you'll find instructions for adjusting it. It worked for me.

I don't remember what I had set mine to (or what my gamma is set to - but I remember that I did change it) so I'll have to check later.


Sure enough Cary, setting the INDEX DELAY on the Samsung HL-R6768W did the trick and eliminated the false contouring and oversaturation problems -- The set is watchable now! Thanks for the pointer!!!

Just FYI, the new LE had an index delay setting of 66 and my Gamma of 2. I ended up at index delay = 52 after adjusting by eye. Would explain the blown out fleshtones I was seeing I guess. Set the Gamma down to 0 for good measure.

Very cool.

Actually 960 X 1080. On these sets the signal is "wobulated". The newer TI chips will do a full 1920 X1080 without wobulation.My understanding is that there are only 960x1080 mirrors on the dmd but the data sent to the dmd is 1920x1080 pixels (though there are reports that all 1920x1080 pixels of resolution might not be shown) and the display itself is a "fixed" 1920x1080 pixels. FWIW.

[QUOTE=donb1948]What ever signal the panel receives (480i, 720p, 1080i) on which ever input (svideo, composite, component, hdmi, dvi or vga), it is converted to 1080p (1920 x 1080 pixels, progressive format) before it is displayed.


Thanks Don,

Would your average Joe interpret "convert any input" to include 1080P input?

My understanding is that there are only 960x1080 mirrors on the dmd but the data sent to the dmd is 1920x1080 pixels (though there are reports that all 1920x1080 pixels of resolution might not be shown) and the display itself is a "fixed" 1920x1080 pixels. FWIW.

Well, I don't know where the dropped pixels went, but I understood that each mirror paints two different pixels, so that should account for all of them. All Manufactures specifications are tricky.

My understanding is that there are only 960x1080 mirrors on the dmd but the data sent to the dmd is 1920x1080 pixels (though there are reports that all 1920x1080 pixels of resolution might not be shown) and the display itself is a "fixed" 1920x1080 pixels. FWIW.

That is true for this generation of DLP TVs' However, TI has introduced a 0.95in 1080p DMD that has the full 1920 complementof mirrors. This chip does not require wobulation. It currently is being used in front projectors but I would hope that it makes it way to the RPTVs, right about the time my 4 year extended warranty runs out on 5078. ;)

[QUOTE=donb1948]Would your average Joe interpret "convert any input" to include 1080P input?Not sure what the question is. In theory, assuming the input is compatible with 1080p, there would be no need to convert (i.e., scale or deinterlace) the input. It should just pass through to the display. Would the "average Joe" with rudimentary inquiry into the subject know this? I think he would/should.

Or, are you asking if this statement would lead the average Joe to believe that the display accepted 1080p on all inputs? That question rates a big "maybe." Without any experience with HDTV, it's possible.

That is true for this generation of DLP TVs' However, TI has introduced a 0.95in 1080p DMD that has the full 1920 complementof mirrors. This chip does not require wobulation. It currently is being used in front projectors but I would hope that it makes it way to the RPTVs, right about the time my 4 year extended warranty runs out on 5078. ;)Yes, agree. But, even with wobulation, the current 1080p chips show a distinct 1920x1080 pixels. It does not just double the pixels in the horizontal as your original statement seemed to implied.

[Or, are you asking if this statement would lead the average Joe to believe that the display accepted 1080p on all inputs? That question rates a big "maybe." Without any experience with HDTV, it's possible.]

Don,

Your question above is what I am asking. My guess is, it is misleading. When I read it, I assumed it would take any input, including 1080P.

Thanks for responding.

Fubdap, for the record, I'm one of those people who bought it assuming it meant it took a 1080p signal on all inputs. I never heard of a set with different specs on different inputs? The salesman at Tweeter told me that it was 1080p and I just about called him a liar since I didn't think they were out yet. I ended up getting my 5678 at TVA and my friend got his 5078 at Tweeter in NH, no tax. I guess I was a little upset after I found out but most HDTVs until very recently were in the same boat. I mean of all HDTVs in use today most are not 1080, never mind p. It will look good in another room when I buy a house! lol.

Wow. All I did was call Samsung on Tuesday about the Bulb warning light (see earlier post) and the next thing I know the repairman is at my door just now with a complete Light Engine replacement. I mentioned that it was just the bulb warning light but he insisted on putting in a whole new LE.

"Oh, we can replace just the bulb if you want, but I recommend replacing the whole LE because it might be the ballast or something else on the DMD board."

"Uh, okay! I was expecting just a new bulb, but...sure. Have at it!"

His assistant already had the old LE out before I could even finish signing the paperwork. A few minutes later he's zipping though the Service Menu transfering the settings to the new board, adjusting the Index Delay, resetting the Lamp Life hours, and who knows what else. They were in and out of here in about 10 minutes.

Fubdap, for the record, I'm one of those people who bought it assuming it meant it took a 1080p signal on all inputs. I never heard of a set with different specs on different inputs? The salesman at Tweeter told me that it was 1080p and I just about called him a liar since I didn't think they were out yet. I ended up getting my 5678 at TVA and my friend got his 5078 at Tweeter in NH, no tax. I guess I was a little upset after I found out but most HDTVs until very recently were in the same boat. I mean of all HDTVs in use today most are not 1080, never mind p. It will look good in another room when I buy a house! lol.

Thanks Bcvp for responding. Come to think that we paid premium for the set.

Yeah, I guess I fell for it and the salesman at Tweeter was half right? lol. I knew it was too good to be true but I didn't do any research on it beyond that so in the end its my fault.

Yes, agree. But, even with wobulation, the current 1080p chips show a distinct 1920x1080 pixels. It does not just double the pixels in the horizontal as your original statement seemed to implied.

Hmmm... Certainly did not mean to imply that 960 X 1080 chips just pixel doubled in the horizontal especially since I know that is not true! Sorry for the confusion. :(

Hey Guys, I am experiencing a problem lately and was hoping one of you know what it is. There is a transparent blue stripe about 1/2" thick going down the left side of the screen that grows to about 1.5" wide at the bottom of the screen . As i said its transparent and the picture can be seen "behind" the stripe. This occurs on both HD and standard broadcasts as well as my dvds.. Anyone experience this before?

Welcome to the Shadow Club.
You and perhaps hundreds of others have experienced this problem. It usually happens after 1000 hrs of operation. I Hope you are still in warranty. Check this thread about the shadow problem. Light engine replace.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=758625

It's caused by a collapsing light tunnel mirror.

New guy here, I searched the 300+ posts here as best I could but couldn't find this similar issue. I've got a HLR5078 purchased in 8/05, its got about 1,700 hours on it as near as I can figure. This week, the set refused to turn on. The LAMP light in the chrome power button blinks five times (not all the lights blink, as the Samsung manual says = dead lamp), then the input indicator shows briefly on the screen (SATELLITE), then blinks off. I thought the set was entirely powered off, but upon turning the lights off in our HT I could see that the screen was barely glowing. Now, this seems like a dead lamp to me except that 1. Manual states ALL lights on the power button should blink, 2. Lamp life is rated at 8,000 hours, and 3. What lights up the SATELLITE input indicator if the lamp is dead? I ordered a new lamp from Samsung, but obviously am not happy about having to drop $200 for a new bulb every 15 months of viewing. If these lamps only last that long- geez I like the looks of the set and PQ- I'm just stupid enough to sell the set with a new lamp in it and buy some other type of TV. Anything else I should be looking for? Samsung's 800 number seems to offer parts, but no network of techs to come to the house. Thanks in advance for any help.

:confused: :mad:

Newguy,

The screen display input "sat" will go off after a sec or two if there is no input signal. Do you ever see a picture?
1. look behind the set to see if the Lamp is on and bright. If it is then its not the lamp.
2. Try your other inputs or press "info" on remote to see if you have anything.
Let us know what you find.

Welcome to the Shadow Club.
You and perhaps hundreds of others have experienced this problem. It usually happens after 1000 hrs of operation. I Hope you are still in warranty. Check this thread about the shadow problem. Light engine replace.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=758625

It's caused by a collapsing light tunnel mirror.

Thanks, i just got off the phone w sammy.. they are sending a technician out tomorrow.... ill keep you all posted.

Sure enough Cary, setting the INDEX DELAY on the Samsung HL-R6768W did the trick and eliminated the false contouring and oversaturation problems -- The set is watchable now! Thanks for the pointer!!!

Just FYI, the new LE had an index delay setting of 66 and my Gamma of 2. I ended up at index delay = 52 after adjusting by eye. Would explain the blown out fleshtones I was seeing I guess. Set the Gamma down to 0 for good measure.

Very cool.


Could someone please explain how to properly do this adjustment? The service manual is not very clear and I never can seem to get it just right.
thanks :confused:

Is there a way to adjust out dithering?

Could someone please explain how to properly do this adjustment? The service manual is not very clear and I never can seem to get it just right.
thanks :confused:

The service manual says: "Press the < > buttons to adjust. Check the red color at the bottom of the screen at its minimum and maximum values of changing from red to magenta, then adjust to the mean value."

Eliab's "Samsung's Chiller Theater" article says: "While in the DDP1011(L8) page, take note of the original INDEX DELAY value and raise it until the bottom of the screen changes from red to magenta. Take note of that value as well. Then, lower it past where you started until it starts to change again. Once more, take note of that value and set your index delay to be in the middle of both extreme points. In other words, if your initial value was 52 and it starts to change at 60 and then at 40, you should set your idnex delay to 50."

Frankly, none of this has ever made much sense to me. I simply adjust it up, then down, until *any one* of the three colored ramps begins to go non-linear. Then I average the two values. At the moment, my value is 61. YMMV.

Could someone please explain how to properly do this adjustment? The service manual is not very clear and I never can seem to get it just right.
thanks :confused:I have done this adjustment two different ways: 1. As described in the service manual and 2. According to Collinp's direction (Calibrating a Samsung HLP-5063W DLP (http://www.gadgetbench.com/hlpnotes/index.php), See section under Color Wheel) using a spectroradiometer. Both produced the same result ( the index value differed by less than 2 on multiple trys).

What part of the service manual description is not clear? (I can tell you how I interpreted that part.) And, what is not "just right" about your end result? Is there a problem in high or low light scenes? As noted before, I'm still fighting a problem with posterization in shadow scenes for certain sources. (I plan to try just eye-balling a specific scene that typically gives poor results to see if I tweak things a bit better.)

Is there a way to adjust out dithering?In low light scenes from high quality sources, I have been able to signifinantly reduce dithering by using the alternate method of adjusting black level, i.e., using a 0 IRE pattern, adjust black level until the dithering just disappears. However, this does not do much for poor quality sources and especially lighter scenes.

In low light scenes from high quality sources, I have been able to signifinantly reduce dithering by using the alternate method of adjusting black level, i.e., using a 0 IRE pattern, adjust black level until the dithering just disappears. However, this does not do much for poor quality sources and especially lighter scenes.
I'm not familiar with how to do this adjustment. Please explain how. Thanks.

I'm not familiar with how to do this adjustment. Please explain how. Thanks. Collinp mentions this in the article referenced above: Calibrating a Samsung HLP-5063W DLP (http://www.gadgetbench.com/hlpnotes/index.php). The article refers to the HL-P but is applicable to the HL-R. This is most of what he had to say about adjusting brightness & dithering, "Since the mirrors in a DLP are either fully on or off, these sets use a technique called dithering to create a range of luminance. Dithering is most noticeable in the near dark shades and when you are very close to the set. Dithering should be invisible at a normal viewing distance. It will appear as busy, swimming pixels of similar shades even when the image is paused.

Dithering gives a way to set the level of black or brightness. Like most sets brightness on the HLP can be adjusted in the user menu. Viewing a pattern containing pure black you can increase brightness until you start to see dithering in the pure black, then decrease brightness until the very point at which the dithering has disappeared." Though he describes the adjustment via the user menu, I used the SM.

Basically, I put up a 0 IRE Gray pattern, got up close and personal with the display and adjusted the brightness control until the dithering just disappeared. Hope this helps.

Collinp mentions this in the article referenced above: Calibrating a Samsung HLP-5063W DLP (http://www.gadgetbench.com/hlpnotes/index.php). The article refers to the HL-P but is applicable to the HL-R. This is most of what he had to say about adjusting brightness & dithering, "Since the mirrors in a DLP are either fully on or off, these sets use a technique called dithering to create a range of luminance. Dithering is most noticeable in the near dark shades and when you are very close to the set. Dithering should be invisible at a normal viewing distance. It will appear as busy, swimming pixels of similar shades even when the image is paused.

Dithering gives a way to set the level of black or brightness. Like most sets brightness on the HLP can be adjusted in the user menu. Viewing a pattern containing pure black you can increase brightness until you start to see dithering in the pure black, then decrease brightness until the very point at which the dithering has disappeared." Though he describes the adjustment via the user menu, I used the SM.

Basically, I put up a 0 IRE Gray pattern, got up close and personal with the display and adjusted the brightness control until the dithering just disappeared. Hope this helps.


It does, but how do I find the 0 IRE Gray pattern?
After I find it, do I use the sub-brightness?
Thanks!

It does, but how do I find the 0 IRE Gray pattern?
After I find it, do I use the sub-brightness?
Thanks!One is available on any of the usual calibration disks: DVE, Avia or Get Gray. It's one of the "gray" patterns used in adjusting the gray scale.

Yes, the sub-brightness control in the DNIe is the one to use.

I decided to check the focus adjustment on my new Light Engine (see earlier post). It's a real pain to get to as you have to squeeze your hand into the side of the pedestal after removing the cover, but at least you can still look at the screen while adjusting.

The service manual says to use the crosshatch pattern for this, but turning the focus wheel does not seem to change anything on the pattern. So I then used the Directv Program Guide screen and adjusted until the lettering was razor sharp. I used a magnifying glass on the edges of letters to see the changes, and it did not take much wheel movement to see it go from dull>sharp>dull, only about a quarter inch movement.

Funny thing is, and maybe it's just me, but the overall HD picture quality does not seem to look as good as before. It just doesn't look natural. I also now notice every little skin defect in actor's faces, which is not necessarily a good thing. I think what I'm seeing are more tv artifacts that were covered up by a slightly softer focus. The sharpness control is off in the user menu, so there is nothing I can adjust there, and I already had adjusted the SP actuator beforehand.

Still, it just doesn't seem right that it can be too sharp.

That's why its called High Definition...:)
But the point is, that it was not focused to begin with.

That's why its called High Definition...:)
But the point is, that it was not focused to begin with.

Well, that's what one would think, but still..., I wonder if there is something different about this replacement LE compared to my original.

Well, that's what one would think, but still..., I wonder if there is something different about this replacement LE compared to my original.

Just a sugesstion: You might want to try turning DNIE off in the service menu. Just a guess, but if it's on, perhaps you are seeing an "oversharp" image due to the edge enhancement in DNIE. Turning it off will most likely make the image look softer. If it's already off, nevermind. :D

Well, that's what one would think, but still..., I wonder if there is something different about this replacement LE compared to my original.

Face it, the HL-R series is history and there is nothing left that is "original". Factory parts support is short lived. A good example is all replacement LE's are now refurbished since they likely no longer build them. And when the parts run out, no more LE's. Still our sets, when ISF calibrated, produce the highest picture quality I have ever seen.

Face it, the HL-R series is history and there is nothing left that is "original". Factory parts support is short lived. A good example is all replacement LE's are now refurbished since they likely no longer build them. And when the parts run out, no more LE's. Still our sets, when ISF calibrated, produce the highest picture quality I have ever seen.

As I understand it, the 5688W pedestal model, which is what I have, has been relatively trouble free, as evidenced by only a few reports here. I don't know what other models share this same LE, but I would think it's different from the ones that are responsible for all the shadow problems we've seen.

It does occur to me that there were earlier pedestal models that did not have the newest HD3 chip. The '88' is the one that has it. Maybe I should check to see if they gave me the right LE. I would have to pull it out to see the part number and compare it to the service manual.

jameskollar - yes, DNIE got turned off when I used someone else's calibrated settings, which had been working great for my tv (even though everyone says it won't work). It at least got me pointed in the right direction.

EDIT Followup:

I fired up the Digital Video Essentials disk and after resetting the brightness, contrast and color, it's starting to look more like what I was used to seeing. If I remember correctly, the new bulb has to 'burn-in' for something like 50 hours or so, so I still cannot get the color right, but it's getting there. :)

owner of a hlr5078w who found this thread while searching for a reason for my recent green screens -- thanks comcast.

never knew about the LE issue - gonna check my set today - it's in a built-in so want to make sure i'm not getting any high pitch whines - assume this is the first sign the LE is going?

well - thanks to all for posts - been some good reading

If all you are seeing is green, I suspect a color wheel problem. It could be stopped on green.

As I understand it, the 5688W pedestal model, which is what I have, has been relatively trouble free, as evidenced by only a few reports here. I don't know what other models share this same LE, but I would think it's different from the ones that are responsible for all the shadow problems we've seen.

It does occur to me that there were earlier pedestal models that did not have the newest HD3 chip. The '88' is the one that has it. Maybe I should check to see if they gave me the right LE. I would have to pull it out to see the part number and compare it to the service manual.

jameskollar - yes, DNIE got turned off when I used someone else's calibrated settings, which had been working great for my tv (even though everyone says it won't work). It at least got me pointed in the right direction.

EDIT Followup:

I fired up the Digital Video Essentials disk and after resetting the brightness, contrast and color, it's starting to look more like what I was used to seeing. If I remember correctly, the new bulb has to 'burn-in' for something like 50 hours or so, so I still cannot get the color right, but it's getting there. :)

St8kout, I've been reading your posts for a while as I have the 5688w pedestal also and I think there are not too many of us. So I was just trying to recap your issues for my future reference. So you had the side shadow? Or was it another problem. A repair person who posted months ago said he had never seen the side shadow problem on a pedestal so I was just wondering. I did keep your info about the odd shaped bulb housing, and thanks for that info. I have never gone into the SM and find the picture at the movie setting with a few tweaks to be excellent for our viewing. So thanks again for all your info and any you can add will be appreciated.

No shadow problem here.

The symbol for the bulb lite up three times since November. Since I was still under the three month warranty extension I called Samsung and two days later the service guys show up with a complete Light Engine replacement. I was expecting only a replacement bulb, but they seemed to think it might be something else.

Thanks for the info. Glad to hear it wasn't the shadow. Hope all goes well for your TV going forward.

After my Light Engine replacement (obviously refurbished) I kept noticing that there was something amiss with the picture quality. The tech correctly transferred all my settings and adjusted a few things, and I adjusted the focus, sp actuator and all the user controls, but it just did not look as good as the original.

So after removing the rear panel to make sure I got the right part number ( it is correct), I pulled the bulb out and found this on the color wheel. If it's like this just on the blue part, I can only imagine what the rest of the wheel looks like.

Nothing like quality control at the refurbishing plant:(

After my Light Engine replacement (obviously refurbished) I kept noticing that there was something amiss with the picture quality. The tech correctly transferred all my settings and adjusted a few things, and I adjusted the focus, sp actuator and all the user controls, but it just did not look as good as the original.

So after removing the rear panel to make sure I got the right part number ( it is correct), I pulled the bulb out and found this on the color wheel. If it's like this just on the blue part, I can only imagine what the rest of the wheel looks like.

Nothing like quality control at the refurbishing plant:(

wow is that a fingerprint or scratches? I am curious from which side did you take that pic? Toward the lamp or away from it? The object behind the color wheel looks like the light tunnel assy, but it is different from the one in my set. Some people here have heard from their techs that the LE have been updated for the shadow problem. Could this be the new part?

My service guy is coming Wed afternoon to put in my new light engine for the shadow problem. I have finally got the picture on my set the way I want it. I am thinking about asking my tech to swap the dmd board and color wheel from my light engine. Has anybody had any sucess in doing this? :confused:

mgreen,
It would be easier for the tech to swap light tunnel optics, than dmd and color wheel.

wow is that a fingerprint or scratches? I am curious from which side did you take that pic? Toward the lamp or away from it? The object behind the color wheel looks like the light tunnel assy, but it is different from the one in my set. Some people here have heard from their techs that the LE have been updated for the shadow problem. Could this be the new part?

I have the pedestal version, which is no doubt different from yours. This is from the lamp's point of view.

It's a big thumb print along with a blurry smudge by the upper screw. It obviously didn't occur to the person doing this that the color wheel needs to be clean.

There are a few other problems with this thing. I'm guessing that the color wheel is not spinning as fast as it should because I'm seeing a lot more of the color bands when you move you head during a dark scene, which used to be common with DLP tvs. There is also stray light spillage on the screen which can be seen during dark scenes or when switching between sources. All in all, they did a crappy job refurbishing this thing. I called Samsung yesterday and they're supposed to replace it (again).

I'm really starting to wish they would have just given me a new bulb.

Since there have been so many LE failures I wonder where one would go to buy the broken sets that SS replaces? Just for parts. Are the replaced sets shipped back to SS? That would be expensive I think. :D

I have the pedestal version, which is no doubt different from yours. This is from the lamp's point of view.

It's a big thumb print along with a blurry smudge by the upper screw. It obviously didn't occur to the person doing this that the color wheel needs to be clean.

There are a few other problems with this thing. I'm guessing that the color wheel is not spinning as fast as it should because I'm seeing a lot more of the color bands when you move you head during a dark scene, which used to be common with DLP tvs. There is also stray light spillage on the screen which can be seen during dark scenes or when switching between sources. All in all, they did a crappy job refurbishing this thing. I called Samsung yesterday and they're supposed to replace it (again).

I'm really starting to wish they would have just given me a new bulb.

That's exactly why I declined their offer to replace my 6768! I know they would screw it up! If they offer another replacement, perhaps you should ask for a different model. The Capt. Kirk model is a real bear to ship!

When I swapped optics from my spare LE I noted that it would be real easy to smudge the color wheel, and when putting everything back together you have to pay attention to all the gaskets that keep dust out and light in. Keep us posted.

There's really no need to replace the whole tv. If they would just provide a NEW light engine instead of a refurbished one, all would be resolved.

My first instinct was to try cleaning the color wheel myself, but given the other problems it's better to let them try again. Maybe the person who refurbished mine was drunk that day;)

I for one like the pedestal model, esp since it does not suffer from the dreaded shadow monster.

Hmmm. Just got a strange call from the service guy about the picture of my dirty color wheel that I emailed him. I had called Samsung about it and they contacted him to check it out, and he's saying he can't get involved with this (huh?). He's suggesting I voided my warranty by taking the tv apart to get that picture. After I corrected him that all I did was remove the 'user-servicable lamp,' saw the fingerprints and took the picture, then he acts like I think it's his fault.

"Well, I didn't put my fingerprints on the color wheel!" he says. (Now why would he think that? He would have to take the LE apart to get to the color wheel.)

"I never said you did. It's Samsung's refurbishing that's at fault. Not yours."

"Well, I can't do anything about it. I'll have to call the Regonal Manager at Samsung and see what he wants to do about it. I can't order another light engine for you."

"Fine, as long as I can get this corrected."

"But I can't do anything about it."

"Are you going to call Samsung or do you want me to?"

"I'll call them, but I can't do anything." (He's really taking this personally.)

Your repairman is probably trying to avoid having Samsung blame him for the problem and consequently charge him for another light engine. So he's just protecting himself it seems. You'll probably end up having to complain to Samsung and get them to take care of it rather than the repairperson. What a horror show your situation has turned into. Keeps us posted as all knowledge of how to deal with Samsung is appreciated.

Hey Guys! I am new to the forum and I have the hlr5078w. I have just discovered the service menu and when I went into DNIe it said it was off. How do I keep it on?

Hey Guys! I am new to the forum and I have the hlr5078w. I have just discovered the service menu and when I went into DNIe it said it was off. How do I keep it on?If you are referring to the "DNIe On/Off" parameter, ignore it. Not sure what it does... But it definitely does not turn DNIe processing on or off. If all of the "SNI_" parameters on the left side of the menu are on (or grayed out for one of them), then DNIe is on.

If you are referring to the "DNIe On/Off" parameter, ignore it. Not sure what it does... But it definitely does not turn DNIe processing on or off. If all of the "SNI_" parameters on the left side of the menu are on (or grayed out for one of them), then DNIe is on.


Thanks,

One issue I am having is there is a reflection in the protective screen. Anyone else experience this?

Thanks,

One issue I am having is there is a reflection in the protective screen. Anyone else experience this?

What did you expect? It's plexiglass. One reason I choose the HL-R6768 over the 7178 model. I don't think you can remove it either. The newer HL-S7178 did away with the plexiglass screen but still has the black reflective borders.

St8kout, this is a good example of the less you say the better. I think its not just about the LE swap but now its also the extra service call that shouldn't be needed. The issue is going to be how did you know to look for that and why did you open the lamp panel when everything was working fine when then tech left?

In other words you already know the tech. is defensive and won't back you up so might need to sell Samsung and his supervisor that you weren't in the SM or fussed with the set. I don't know if you have gone in the SM but I'd be sure that everything is set at the default or factory reset. It will be easy to brush you off if anyone thinks you fiddled with anything and try not to sound like you know more than them. The other thing is the tech. will say how you and he thought the set was fine or you or he would've addressed it at the time, before he left. You're going to have to be pleasant and firm about how you know there is a problem and you didn't cause it.

The issue is going to be how did you know to look for that and why did you open the lamp panel when everything was working fine when then tech left?

Like I told him, for the next few days after he installed it, I kept noticing that it just didn't look right. I've had this tv for over a year and I know what it's supposed to look like. The only reason I looked in the back was to make sure he had given me the right part number light engine. The '88' in my tv's model number signifies that it has the new HD3 chip. The similarly designed HL-R5678W has the older HD2+ chip.

Since it indeed had the correct light engine, pulling the lamp out and looking inside was simply to see if there was perhaps some dust in there causing the problem.

From his strange reaction to all this, I almost wonder if there is something else going on behind the scenes. Could he doing his own refurbishing of parts from some other tvs? He seems like a nice enough guy, but I still don't understand why he would think that I think it's his fault? Strange.

I emailed the pic to Eliab and David to get their opinion of just how much a dirty color wheel would affect picture quality.

St8kout, I don't know what I would do at this point? I'd almost call Samsung directly since I don't know what your tech will say to them? If he's this defensive about it I don't want him saying the wrong thing to Samsung.

The bottom line is you need another LE. No one is going to bother taking it apart and cleaning it. I'd stick with the PQ issue and everything else you might have said to the tech is something he misunderstood. lol. You might mention the issue you had with the tech in order to get another one who will just replace the LE and not cause problems.

If you are referring to the "DNIe On/Off" parameter, ignore it. Not sure what it does... But it definitely does not turn DNIe processing on or off. If all of the "SNI_" parameters on the left side of the menu are on (or grayed out for one of them), then DNIe is on.

Maybe someone can back me up but I think what you are saying is incorrect.

The DNIe in the regular menu does nothing.

The DNIe in the service menu absolutely does something.
Everytime I watch a HiDef/BluRay DVD I go into my service menu and turn off DNIe.

Now, the wierd part is, it says it is off by default but it isn't.
You need to turn it on, then off again.
You can instantly see a difference.

Maybe someone can back me up but I think what you are saying is incorrect.

The DNIe in the regular menu does nothing.

The DNIe in the service menu absolutely does something.
Everytime I watch a HiDef/BluRay DVD I go into my service menu and turn off DNIe.

Now, the wierd part is, it says it is off by default but it isn't.
You need to turn it on, then off again.
You can instantly see a difference.You could be correct. I have not noticed a difference. (As i commented, Not sure what that parameter does...) But the point is that what ever the parameter does, it is not "permanent." There are pages and pages of dscussions of DNIe early in this forum. Believe me... Every time you turn the display on, DNIe is active unless you specifically turn it off via the service menu SNI_ parameters. DNIe in the "regular" or User menu only controls the demo. Also, remember that every time you enter the service menu all user parameters are reset to factory default. FWIW.

Yes, everytime you turn off the set or even change inputs, it defaults back to on.

Yes, everytime you turn off the set or even change inputs, it defaults back to on.Not sure this is an issue but, remember, each input has its own "DNIe" menu/memory. Changing that parameter for one input does not change it for all inputs.

Maybe someone can back me up but I think what you are saying is incorrect.

The DNIe in the regular menu does nothing.

The DNIe in the service menu absolutely does something.
Everytime I watch a HiDef/BluRay DVD I go into my service menu and turn off DNIe.

Now, the wierd part is, it says it is off by default but it isn't.
You need to turn it on, then off again.
You can instantly see a difference.

To turn DNIe off and make it stay off you need to set "SNI_PROC_CEA" to "SNI_PROC_OUTP" to OFF. They're all in the left colunm of the DNIe menu, and all ten of these have to be set to OFF. I forget if it changes globally, so check each source to see it they're all off.

To turn DNIe off and make it stay off you need to set "SNI_PROC_CEA" to "SNI_PROC_OUTP" to OFF. They're all in the left colunm of the DNIe menu, and all ten of these have to be set to OFF. I forget if it changes globally, so check each source to see it they're all off.

This was all researched and documented months ago. For those who may be new to this forum:

1. To turn DNIe off permanently, go into the service menu. In the DNIe sub-menu, turn *all* of the SNI* items ON, then OFF. These items, like many others, are replicated per input per resolution/scan rate. For example, on the COMPONENT-1 input, you have the flexibility of specifying these parameters separately for 480i, 480p, 720p, and 1080i. Most of us have only one resolution/scan rate per input, of course, but don't forget that the tuners often see all four of these resolutions/scan rates.

2. The user menu DNIe is only a demonstration. It has no effect on actual processing once you are out of the demo.

3. Even with DNIe permanently off, which eliminates really nasty edge enhancement, there is still a firmware bug on many early HL-R models. Each time you change inputs, or resolution/scan rate on a given input, the black level often floats to a different level than what you may have calibrated. The way to fix that is to reset your mode, such as "Movie", each time you change input. That's an incredible pain if you're operating manually, of course, which is why many of us use programmable remote controls. In my case, every input selection invokes a macro, whose final step is always "Movie Mode". Works perfectly.

Here we are, January 25, more than two months has passed... still NOTHING NADA ZIP.

A week last Friday, during my 12th phone call to 1-800-SAMSUNG, I finally got so pissed off I demanded someone higher up. Every time the drone tried to talk, I demanded a higher up. After a few minutes, drone finally relented and passed me along. Spoke with someone who said he was a "supervisor". Looking over what part of the "file" he did have, he blathered on about this and that... let's see... Pauls claims they never even came out and looked at the set; half the file is missing and they don't know who has it; the blah blah blah guy is going to blah blah and so on. He also said it's been going on so long, they may replace the set. Oh goodie goodie... another $$$ for Gregg to come out and calibrate a factory reconditioned replacement.

This is the WORST service experience I have *EVER* had. My God, it would be easier to get the OEM to fix a damn broken Yugo than to get Samsung to get off their asses and fix this...

As for TVAuthority, they are absolutely NO HELP AT ALL. The guy I spoke with seemed to think it wasn't "a good idea" to even pass me off to their rep for help.

What have I learned ... well... Samsung service SUCKS and I will NEVER NEVER NEVER again buy ANYTHING from a boutique shop.












A followup... after a call from some guy at Pauls late last week, who told me that the Samsung "Product Specialist" told him that I need to update the firmware in the Tosh. I did that. Their tech knows I did that. Samsung knows I did that. Pauls promised to call me back the following day. Yeah right.

This is the absolutely most HORRIBLE service experience I have ever had... and considering I put up with THREE bad Sony Wegas (2 rptv and an awful 60xbr800) at least Sony tried their best to fix their broken stuff.

A week prior to buying the Tosh on 11/04, I called Samsung because of the HDMI issue with the Sony. After them telling me that the player was at fault, I took the plunge and bought the HD.

It is now over seven weeks since I first called Samsung and I still have no idea what's happening or how this is going to get fixed.

I've tried to handle this by being easy going and a nice guy. Well, that doesn't seem to work. If anyone has the name/number of someone high up - like the VP of Customer blah blah, I'd appreciate a PM. If not, I can Google 'em and see what I can come up with.

Thanks for reading my rant and allowing me to vent :) (ya know, you pay a premium for something and expect support to go with it).

Dave

I am trying to set the resolution out of my pc to 1920x 1020 it just wont work. I go into display settings, click on 2 screen and advanced settings. It allows me to move the cursor over to those setings, but as soon as I click apply, it reverts back to 1024x 768.
I have read probably close to 200 hundred pages of this darn thread in the paST WEEK, AND i REMEMBER WHERE IT WAS DISCUSS(sorry) and I can find where it was. Can someone please go over this again so I can get this to work.

I am using a cheap vga cable from Radio shack... 6 ft.

Thanks,
Corey

Hoopsrgreat, it looks to me like the PC can't output that? The set will take it as long as your HTPC is high end enough, most PCs are not. If it can handle that and it still doesn't work then I'll have to think of something tomorrow. lol. Sorry.

Dave69, I don't wanna beat a dead horse but I think it would be helpful to people here to get a better understanding or a refresher of why you needed the service call in the first place?

I agree that Samsung either has top notch or lousy service, it never seems to be average or just ok. I don't understand why that happens and why people aren't treated the same? My LE, like some here was fixed next day, in a half hour, in my home. That's the way it should be. Others have spoken with several people and have taken weeks to get their issue resolved.

I know people need to be pleasant and firm and don't take no for an answer. I know once you get bent out of shape they are even less likely to fix your issue even though you are the customer. I think that happened twice here.

BVCP,

How can I know what the pc can output? It has that resolution as one of the choices to set the monitors display at???

Thanks

AAHHH!!!

Can anyone, ANYONE...e-mail me something to help calibrate my television? It's a Samsung HL-R5688W.

Reason being is that there is no one here in AK to do calibrations. Eliab isn't able to come.

Any suggestions? Please, please PM me and help me out....send calibration settings or something....

Thank you all in advance for at least reading and hopefully helping.

AAHHH!!!

Can anyone, ANYONE...e-mail me something to help calibrate my television? It's a Samsung HL-R5688W.

Reason being is that there is no one here in AK to do calibrations. Eliab isn't able to come.

Any suggestions? Please, please PM me and help me out....send calibration settings or something....

Thank you all in advance for at least reading and hopefully helping.

Check with Avical and I am sure they can recommend an ISF certified calibrator near you. Plugging in CCA values from another set won't cut it! Good luck.

Reason being is that there is no one here in AK to do calibrations. Have you tried UMR. His home area is in Texas but he also tours. I have not used him but folks have given him great reviews.

Xcitado, if you have INHD you can record TuneUp. It's on this Sunday at 7AM or do a search to find the next one. It has a bunch of calibrations that will help until you find someone.

Hoopsrgreat, I'm going to try this again. lol. Maybe someone else has a better idea? Do you currently have a CRT or LCD? Do you have one monitor or two, are you keeping your current monitor connected and adding the set?

I know it switches back when something isn't compatible. I was thinking how you might have a CRT with a different refresh rate, it should be 60hz.

If you unplugged your monitor and only have the set connected and you have a picture but it won't go that high then its the graphic card. Most average computers with average graphic cards can't handle that resolution and the ones that can aren't powerful enough to play video/WMV9+/HD.

Give us more info on your hardware and your setup. There, I tried. lol.

Thanks for the time. After a little actual research, you were correct. My laptop will not output 1920x1080.

Thanks for your suggestions.

Thanks all for the help. I did try Avical but it's a no go. Eliab stated that if he gets enough people to sign up then he would be willing to come here to Alaska. Oh well.

Again, thanks for all the help.

Anyone here run Tune-Up on INHD? I wonder what the calibration results are for people who have and have not had their set calibrated? That's a standard we could all go by to compare, I think although I guess I realize how the UM could be different after a calibration. One thing I always noticed was how I can never see the outer 00 ring on the second calibration, for adjusting contrast no matter what settings I change. I'd imagine that screams out after a calibration and shows what you're missing without a calibration, but then I wonder if the Velux or something would help, which I keep putting off.

Anyone here run Tune-Up on INHD? I wonder what the calibration results are for people who have and have not had their set calibrated? That's a standard we could all go by to compare, I think although I guess I realize how the UM could be different after a calibration. One thing I always noticed was how I can never see the outer 00 ring on the second calibration, for adjusting contrast no matter what settings I change. I'd imagine that screams out after a calibration and shows what you're missing without a calibration, but then I wonder if the Velux or something would help, which I keep putting off.

I have it recorded on my DVR. I think you are refering to the contrast adjustment.
I have never been able to see it either. I have tried everything I can think of. I just has me Light engine replaced and it still doesnt show up. One day I am going to get up early enough to calibrate my coax input with it. ;)

HI, I've been lurking on this thread for a while and have a question about the new Samsung HLS6167W I just purchased:

My DirectTV receiver is connected via component cables (video) and RCA cables (audio) to the TV. What is the best way to connect the audio from the TV to my stereo system? I tried using a RCA cable from the the TV audio out to the stereo input, but the signal didn't pass through.

Can someone recoomemed what is the proper schematic here?

Thanks, DAvid

HI, I've been lurking on this thread for a while and have a question about the new Samsung HLS6167W I just purchased:

My DirectTV receiver is connected via component cables (video) and RCA cables (audio) to the TV. What is the best way to connect the audio from the TV to my stereo system? I tried using a RCA cable from the the TV audio out to the stereo input, but the signal didn't pass through.

Can someone recoomemed what is the proper schematic here?

Thanks, DAvid

I use an optical cable from the Directv box to my Harman Kardon (to get Dolby Digital 5.1). The tv has an optical out, but I only use that when I'm using the cable input source, (I also have basic cable).

If you get an HD Directv box, use an HDMI cable to the tv as this will give you the best picture. Also, if you want over-the-air HD stations, you can connect an antenna to the HD Directv box, input your zip code in the Directv setup menu, and it will include your local HD stations into the Directv programming guide, which is pretty cool.