Anyone here run Tune-Up on INHD? I wonder what the calibration results are for people who have and have not had their set calibrated? That's a standard we could all go by to compare, I think although I guess I realize how the UM could be different after a calibration. One thing I always noticed was how I can never see the outer 00 ring on the second calibration, for adjusting contrast no matter what settings I change. I'd imagine that screams out after a calibration and shows what you're missing without a calibration, but then I wonder if the Velux or something would help, which I keep putting off.

I had to google INHD to see what it was. Does anyone know if Directv has it, because a did find that Directv is in a dispute with them about being charged more for it than cable?

Hi, I have a question : I am researching still what display to use for a general purpose PC monitor. These Samsungs have 2 useful features : the ability to disable overscan and full support of 1080p input via the VGA jack, as well as the DVI jack. (so I could use DVI for the windows desktop and the VGA output for gaming)

BUT....I understand this display fails the test pattern tests, and so you cannot actually see all 1080 lines of resolution. Mitsubishis and Sonys and JVCs all pass this test....but you cannot disable overscan...

Habeed, I bought the set so I could use my PC with it. The set will only take a VGA signal, not DVI. Afaik you can get a VGA adapter if your video card doesn't have VGA but you can't connect a VGA and DVI signal to the set. I think you get 1:1 pixel mapping but I don't want to give you the wrong info. The only issue people have had with the PC is that the picture is soft. I think people are a little closer than they would be since the text is small. You can enlarge the text but I think that only goes so far. You should check older posts here under HTPC.

What test patterns are you referring to? I haven't heard of them and would be interested to read the review.

Davidyal, this is the HL-R thread, I don't think it matters for your audio question but you might want to check out the HL-S thread.

On CNET, their review states it does not actually resolve every line of 1080p, so you do not realy have 1080p resolution.

This is why the image is 'soft' with PC input : there is blurring together of some of the lines and pixels.

Yes, you CAN drive it via DVI and it is the ONLY way to go : because it is direct digital control of the mirrors if you always output a 1920x1080 signal, with black pixels for the edges that are overscanned. The manual says you can't, but you can because a modern video card can send a DVI signal EXACTLY like that sent by HD-DVD players.

Habeed,
This is the HLR thread. The HLR series (2005 models) will only accept 1080P over VGA. You might want to check out the HLS thread, which are the 2006 models.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=665890&page=1&pp=30

I have a 5087 and I think the colors are off. I'd like to calibrate it myself but I'm not sure what I'll need. I'm willing to invest in a proper colormeter but I also want to do the job proper (not just brightness/contrast, tint, hue but going through the service menu and adjusting the RGB gain, black and white points). What are the standard procedure and tools used by service techs?

I have a 5087 and I think the colors are off. I'd like to calibrate it myself but I'm not sure what I'll need. I'm willing to invest in a proper colormeter but I also want to do the job proper (not just brightness/contrast, tint, hue but going through the service menu and adjusting the RGB gain, black and white points). What are the standard procedure and tools used by service techs?

There are other threads on the forum for discussing the tools for calibration and its way off subject here. The first thing you should do in the SM is check your index delay setting. That will provide course adjustment for colors that are off. After that you are entering a whole new world that will require very expensive tools and lots of education/learning. Way too much investment vs paying someone to do it for you, even if you have it done every 3 years or so IMHO.

HI, I've been lurking on this thread for a while and have a question about the new Samsung HLS6167W I just purchased:

My DirectTV receiver is connected via component cables (video) and RCA cables (audio) to the TV. What is the best way to connect the audio from the TV to my stereo system? I tried using a RCA cable from the the TV audio out to the stereo input, but the signal didn't pass through.

Can someone recoomemed what is the proper schematic here?

Thanks, DAvid

You need to make sure you turn on the Internal Mute (audio section of the Menu) in order for the signal to pass through to your receiver.

Try an optical cable from the tv out to your receiver's optical in, it should then work with the tv internal mute on or off.

There are other threads on the forum for discussing the tools for calibration and its way off subject here. The first thing you should do in the SM is check your index delay setting. That will provide course adjustment for colors that are off. After that you are entering a whole new world that will require very expensive tools and lots of education/learning. Way too much investment vs paying someone to do it for you, even if you have it done every 3 years or so IMHO.
Thanks.

Sorry to change the subject, but for you 5688 owners, did you buy the tr85 stand, or do you have another clever solution for video components. I am currently using a cheap plastic 4 tier garage shelf that I got for $9. It is black, but it still looks ugly next to the set.

Should I get the tr85 stand currently around $285, or something else.

My main choice is the xbox 360 or the stand, but I am sure the stand is more practical, and after xmas the 360 will probably drop in price.

The stand is very hard to get now, so if I wait, I will be out of luck. I am also worried that the stand is ugly. What do you stand owners think.

Thanks, and sorry I have nothing to add about the repairs. I only hope I don't have to worry about any of that for a long time.

Jay

I bought the TR85 stand when I got the TV in late 2005. It fits well with the style of the TV. My biggest complaint is the size of the rear door covering the cables. The single door pushes you about 16" from the wall. A double door arrangment would have been much better. I have an H-20, a DVD player, an X-box 360 and some other things on the shelves. It has worked quite well. It is quite a rugged unit and very heavy.

I just got my light engine replaced today, and after 2 hours of being ok the picture went out and all 3 lights started blinking. I unplugged it, waited a few minutes, turned it back on and it lasted another 2 hours or so. I can't believe this. Could the new LE have a bad lamp?

I just got my light engine replaced today, and after 2 hours of being ok the picture went out and all 3 lights started blinking. I unplugged it, waited a few minutes, turned it back on and it lasted another 2 hours or so. I can't believe this. Could the new LE have a bad lamp?

Sounds like it's more than just a bad lamp if all three lights started blinking.

I don't know if there is a problem with my set or not. I have been using my computer over vga, and it looks perfect at 1080 @60hz. I bought a dvi to hdmi cable(my video card is dvi out), and I can't watch it through hdmi. I set the nvidia to 1080i, and it still sucks. It looks like the horizontal lines are being duplicated. Everything has an extra line pixels. ======== instead of----------- .

Is there any reason why that would happen? When I switch it over to 720p in the nvidia control panel, the screen clears up. I looks really out of focus on anything else. Should I change the refresh rate from 60hz to something lower? Has anyone else had this problem? I plugged the computer in the hdmi 1 and the dvi port, but it was the same both times. I would like to do an auto screen adjust, but that is only available over vga. I also hate that it is a few degrees clockwise, but that can't be fixed.

Do I have to watch it in 720p or is there something I can do to view my computer in 1080i. I don't have any hdmi components to check the hdmi ports besides the computer. I could try the dvi out on my macbook pro and see if I have the same problem at higher resolutions.

Also, why can't I select hdmi in the pip when watching a component video source? I can use pip when the hdmi is my main source, but not the other way around. I would like to watch and hear component satellite on one screen, and surf the internet on the other.

Let me know if if there is something I can do. I tried searching, but "computer hdmi crap" didn't turn up useful results :) . thanks

Jay

I bought the TR85 stand when I got the TV in late 2005. It fits well with the style of the TV. My biggest complaint is the size of the rear door covering the cables. The single door pushes you about 16" from the wall. A double door arrangment would have been much better. I have an H-20, a DVD player, an X-box 360 and some other things on the shelves. It has worked quite well. It is quite a rugged unit and very heavy.



I did get the tr85, and it is great! I agree that two doors would work a lot better, but the craftsmanship is excellent. It is much higher quality than I would have imagined. It even came with a screwdriver to put it together.

I am very pleased.

Jay

Foney_email, the HL-Rs only take a PC signal over VGA. Its not just the i/p issue, a computer signal, which is p, is not the same as video.

Foney_email, the HL-Rs only take a PC signal over VGA. Its not just the i/p issue, a computer signal, which is p, is not the same as video.


I have just opted to using the hdmi as 720p output for my computer. It seems to work fine like that, but I would rather it was a 1080 signal, because I have already changed the sizes of my fonts and icons and the like.

I just got an xbox 360, and that has taken my vga port now. Or it will when my vga cable comes in.

Is there any reason why hdmi can be the main pip, but I cannot swap between them?

foney_email,
On page 66 of the owners manual it states that PIP does not work over HDMI.

If I remember correctly its digital signals not just HDMI?

foney_email,
On page 66 of the owners manual it states that PIP does not work over HDMI.

Pip does work with hdmi as the main screen. If you do split screen, there will be hdmi on the left, and component on the right. I want to be able to swap them, but it doesn't. I was just complaning that it doesn't make sence. I would just like to use the audio from the right of the split screen. That is all. I don't see any reason besides software limitations that it wouldn't work. If it is able to have hdmi in split screen, then why not swap it?

It just seems that it was an oversight, and not a hardware issue of hdmi vs component, or coax in.

I am at work now so I don't know what page this is on, but in the owners manual it has a little chart that shows you can activate pip while watching an hdmi signal. You can also activate split screen while watching an hdmi signal. You just can't swap, or more simply, choose which audio feed you are hearing. PITA!

BTW, xbox 360 through component sux! I am ordering a vga cable right now. HDMI for xbox 360 isn't better, is it? I had to buy a 360, because I was chosen in the first round of beta testing for halo3. Now I learn that everyone and their mom is going to be accepted, so I feel my impulse buy was a bad idea. The picture looks amazing though, and the hd content looks great on this set.

Jay

foney_email,
You’re correct about PIP working with HDMI. It’s the swap function that does not work.
I don’t agree with your statement that the 360 “sux” over component. The picture from the 360 is excellent over component but the TV’s video lag makes some games unplayable. I use VGA because it significantly reduces the lag.

Dave69, I don't wanna beat a dead horse but I think it would be helpful to people here to get a better understanding or a refresher of why you needed the service call in the first place?

I agree that Samsung either has top notch or lousy service, it never seems to be average or just ok. I don't understand why that happens and why people aren't treated the same? My LE, like some here was fixed next day, in a half hour, in my home. That's the way it should be. Others have spoken with several people and have taken weeks to get their issue resolved.

I know people need to be pleasant and firm and don't take no for an answer. I know once you get bent out of shape they are even less likely to fix your issue even though you are the customer. I think that happened twice here.


Beginning of November, I bought a Sony 75 dvd w/hdmi. Plugged it in, didn't work. Called Samsung, they said the dvd player had issues. Bought a Tosh HD-A1. Still no hdmi. Called Samsung again - told me to update the Tosh firmware. Did that. Still no hdmi. Called Sammy for Service mid November.

My 14th phone call this morning was to their Corporate office. I spoke with a lady I think in corporate who was going to look in to it and call me back in a few minutes. That was some 6 hours ago.

Some highlights:

Paul's TV came out. Was supposed to find out from Samsung how to fix. Never called me back. Samsung on a few occassions said I was going to getting a call from a product specialist. Nothing. I've heard all the excuses... my file was misplaced, Pauls never came out, blah blah.

Even after NOT fixing the problem during an "extended" warranty that they tacked on, the lady said I'll probably have to pay for the repair.

As I have said elsewhere, it would be easier to get the original manufacturer to fix a Yugo than it is to get any sort of help from Samsung.

As for TVAuthority, they are NO help whatsoever. Last time I called, I explained my issue, and was transferred to a voice mail box that was FULL, with NO NAME, and was not able to leave a message. (If anyone from tva is reading this, if this isn't resolved promptly, either by you the seller or Samsung the manufacturer, Neil at 1345 on behalf of C2518087 will be receiving service next week).

foney_email,
You’re correct about PIP working with HDMI. It’s the swap function that does not work.
I don’t agree with your statement that the 360 “sux” over component. The picture from the 360 is excellent over component but the TV’s video lag makes some games unplayable. I use VGA because it significantly reduces the lag.


Sorry, I was referring to the lag. I think that it looks awesome through component. I am amazed at the picture quality. Currently the 360 is the only HD component I own, besides my computer. Compared to the SD satelite sigsatelliteugh component, I was extremely happy with the picture.

I still haven't hooked up my Macbook Pro C2D up to the tv yet.

I went out of town yesterday, and I bought the vga cable. Halo2 is great! I could not play live with the 360 over component because of the lag. That is strange, because it had less lag through S-video on my original xbox than it did on the 360 with component. I also downloaded some HD content on the XBox marketplace, and it is stunning.



I already know the answer, but is there a way to make the VGA fill the entire screen? I know the manual says it doesn't, but I was just wondering if there was something. Probably not though.

I already know the answer, but is there a way to make the VGA fill the entire screen? I know the manual says it doesn't, but I was just wondering if there was something. Probably not though.

While you are in PC mode, go to setup/PC/auto adjust. There is also a size adjustment under setup/PC, which I didn’t use because the auto adjust worked perfectly.

Dave69, that sucks. I mean you should have great service being in LA. It sounds so simple that I thought I was missing something. The bottom line is you need a digital board to replace the HDMI and instead of blaming your components and getting a FW update you should've insisted on a service call to replace it.

I don't understand why they didn't send someone out on your first call? You are clearly going in circles and I think you should just call Samsung like it was a new problem. They seem so clueless that they might not realize the other issue. The catch could be with the serial number or the service center having your info already. Once you get anything but someone saying they will send out a tech with a new digital board, you need to speak with someone else.

Reading your post again it sounds like Paul's was clueless when they looked at your set and you spoke with ding dongs at Samsung. Did Paul's bring any parts with them or anything? Do I have that right? At this rate you might explain how Paul's is not qualified since they weren't familiar with the issue and therefore you are requesting another service center or Samsung regional engineer or whatever. You need to be pleasant and firm. Anything else will get you no where. Ok, I think you need to speak with a supervisor at Paul's and get a straight answer from them. They need to say they are either clueless, have ordered the right part or something. If you don't get the right answer you should tell them how you're speaking with Samsung about their lack of training as soon as you hang up the phone with them. This is so ridiculous.

Can anybody tell me how to access the lamp clock to find out how many hrs. my 6168W has logged? I have read it is in the service menu, but i don't have a clue how to get to the service menu.

Can anybody tell me how to access the lamp clock to find out how many hrs. my 6168W has logged? I have read it is in the service menu, but i don't have a clue how to get to the service menu.

To enter the Service Menu, press the following key sequence on the remote control: MUTE 1 8 2 POWER.

Moving around within the Service Menu is done in a similar manner to moving around the User Menu: the Up-Down arrows change the menu selection, the Right arrow key enters the new menu/selection, the Left/Right arrows change the value of the selection, and the Menu button exits a selection or menu.

To access the Lamp Life counter, enter the menu labeled "OPTION" (near the bottom). The 5th entry is "Lamp Life". When you eventually replace the bulb, access the 1st entry in the same menu ("Lamp Clear") to reset the counter.

Be aware that exiting the Service Menu will reset all User Menu parameters to their original default values. This means, for example, if you have used DVE or similar methods to adjust brightness, contrast, and the like... then you'll need to repeat that process. Alternatively, write down all User Menu settings before entering the Service Menu, and then simply restore them later. However, also be aware that many of these settings are replicated for each combination of input and resolution... so document settings on all inputs and resolutions that you're using (tuner(s), component, HDMI, composite, VGA).

Finally, I must include the obligatory disclaimer. Don't change anything inside the Service Menu unless you know what you're doing. You can damage your television, and there are rumours that you can void your warranty.

To enter the Service Menu, press the following key sequence on the remote control: MUTE 1 8 2 POWER.

Moving around within the Service Menu is done in a similar manner to moving around the User Menu: the Up-Down arrows change the menu selection, the Right arrow key enters the new menu/selection, the Left/Right arrows change the value of the selection, and the Menu button exits a selection or menu.

To access the Lamp Life counter, enter the menu labeled "OPTION" (near the bottom). The 5th entry is "Lamp Life". When you eventually replace the bulb, access the 1st entry in the same menu ("Lamp Clear") to reset the counter.

Be aware that exiting the Service Menu will reset all User Menu parameters to their original default values. This means, for example, if you have used DVE or similar methods to adjust brightness, contrast, and the like... then you'll need to repeat that process. Alternatively, write down all User Menu settings before entering the Service Menu, and then simply restore them later. However, also be aware that many of these settings are replicated for each combination of input and resolution... so document settings on all inputs and resolutions that you're using (tuner(s), component, HDMI, composite, VGA).

Finally, I must include the obligatory disclaimer. Don't change anything inside the Service Menu unless you know what you're doing. You can damage your television, and there are rumours that you can void your warranty.
Thank's for the reply. Mute 182 power gives me a black screen. It resets my settings so i know i must be close, but all i get is a black screen. Is there a certain source i should be using? I am using air when attempting to go into service menu. I know this can't be as difficult as it seems.

One hour before Super Bowl kick-off, the left-hand shadow appeared. The shadow is tappered: From the bottom left it is 1" wide tappering to a point in the top left.

Called Samsung this morning, rep was professional, but not very friendly. He asked if the shadow appeared on all input signals: cable, dvd, games etc. I stated it appeared on both air and cable signal in front of 7 of my friends who were initially admiring the picture quality.... And were also conteplating purchasing large DLP HDTVs.

He stated I must confirm the issue is the TV and not the input signal. So I was told to hook-up the DVD player to see if the shadow appears from a different source. I'm a ChemE, not a EE, but assume if the shadow is present from air and cable signal, it is the TV. After hooking-up the DVD player and computer via VGA, guess what, the shadow is present!?

I asked if my TV was still under warranty, he said no. I then stated I was looking at an email congratulating me on registering the warranty online mid Dec 2005 and extending the warranty by three months to mid March 07. He then paused and said he sees that on his screen, but it was not clear initially. I asked if the shadow issue was common. He said no.

I Will keep you informed of the outcome.

Crew
Mpls area

He stated I must confirm the issue is the TV and not the input signal. So I was told to hook-up the DVD player to see if the shadow appears from a different source. I'm a ChemE, not a EE, but assume if the shadow is present from air and cable signal, it is the TV. After hooking-up the DVD player and computer via VGA, guess what, the shadow is present!?

General lesson when talking to Tier 1, when they ask you to do silly things like check the inputs on a shadow problem just say ok, get a cup of coffee, come back and say "did that, still there." When they ask you to check the next input walk away and take the dog for a walk, come back and say "did that, still there." BTW: I am an EE. I use this approach on just about every service troubleshooting call I make. ;) :D

Hey Crew, thanks for posting and please post your results. Major bummer with it happening right before the SB. "Hey guys! Check out my huge-a$$ DLP.....Woah! WTF is THAT!"

I bought my HLR7178 in November 05. I bought an extra year of warranty from Samsung for $3XX because of the issues discussed here. I haven't checked my lamp hours, but I have still not seen the "shadow" problem. I know it's going to happen, I just hope it does it before my extended warranty runs out.

Cary

Thank's for the reply. Mute 182 power gives me a black screen. It resets my settings so i know i must be close, but all i get is a black screen. Is there a certain source i should be using? I am using air when attempting to go into service menu. I know this can't be as difficult as it seems.

Did you start with the set powered off?

Hey Crew, thanks for posting and please post your results. Major bummer with it happening right before the SB. "Hey guys! Check out my huge-a$$ DLP.....Woah! WTF is THAT!"

I bought my HLR7178 in November 05. I bought an extra year of warranty from Samsung for $3XX because of the issues discussed here. I haven't checked my lamp hours, but I have still not seen the "shadow" problem. I know it's going to happen, I just hope it does it before my extended warranty runs out.
Cary

Hey, you may never have a shadow problem as I have not heard of any 78 series set with the shadow.

Hey, you may never have a shadow problem as I have not heard of any 78 series set with the shadow.

wrong

Does anyone here use a UPS along with their Samsung 61" DLP?

I read somewhere that it is worthwhile to have a UPS in case of power outage, this way you can shut the TV down safely and allow the fan to properly cool.


How much power do I need to accomplish this? Is 500 VA sufficient? I don't know how long the fan runs and how much power it consumes after shutdown.

Hey, you may never have a shadow problem as I have not heard of any 78 series set with the shadow.

I have an HL-R6178 purchased in August 05 which developed a right side shadow about 2 weeks ago.

I have an HL-R6178 purchased in August 05 which developed a right side shadow about 2 weeks ago.

Sorry to hear about that. A friend of mine bought the 7178 about the same time as you and he is looking out for the shadow now. However, maybe fewer 78 series sets were built.

Does anyone here use a UPS along with their Samsung 61" DLP?

I read somewhere that it is worthwhile to have a UPS in case of power outage, this way you can shut the TV down safely and allow the fan to properly cool.


How much power do I need to accomplish this? Is 500 VA sufficient? I don't know how long the fan runs and how much power it consumes after shutdown.



I have to use battery backups given all the brownouts we have around here in the summer. I have three different units, one for the Samsung, Directv box, and DVD player, another for my Harman Kardon amp and a third for my laptop/modem and Xbox 360. If the power goes out for more than several seconds, I'll start turning everything off. The 500VA easily handles the TV.

I disabled the alarms in two of them because the beeping is very annoying, esp if you lose power at 3am.

Ok, when its a little slow here, like me, lol I try to think of things that will help me and maybe others like what HDMI version are these sets, what is the latest version and what is the difference and what does it mean to "old" sets like these?

Ok, when its a little slow here, like me, lol I try to think of things that will help me and maybe others like what HDMI version are these sets, what is the latest version and what is the difference and what does it mean to "old" sets like these?

This was a topic addressed quite a bit when we first got the sets. I think we settled on the sets being 1.1 or 1.2 . I think the current version is 1.3.

None the less the real problem with almost all HDMI except for stuff that will be shipping this year is that it does not handle multichannel protected audio. We always complained that the sets did not support HDMI audio and that was one of the reasons cited to eliminate the lag (the other being a delay in the set so it could slow down the digital audio on pass through).

At this years CES there were a number of companies announcing HDMI compliant home theater systems that would deal with both HDMI video and multichannel audio (very important if you want to view protected content). Since most of this is not rock solid yet, even though a device says it supports HDMI 1.3, I would not bank on it working in an integrated system until we see a number of these combinations deployed. My guess is at least mid 2008.

Terry from Electronic Services located in Golden Valley MN, arrived with the new light engine today. Great knowledgable guy. Installed new light engine in 15 minutes. Said he has yet to replace a 'replacement.' Also, starting in Feb 07, repair technicians will be installing the new light tunnel only, not the complete engine when repairing the shadow issue.

According to Terry: Adhesive in the light tunnel was suspect. Important to have a 4" air gap between the back of the set and wall. Never install this TV in a cabinet. And don't use Monster cables... The connections fit too tight and people induce stresses on the fittings, connection boards and solder points.... All of his advise was from HIM to ME. NOT me to you. I'm just passing this on.

1266 hrs on the old bulb since new in Dec 2005. 0hrs on the new engine and bulb...

I would use Terry for any repairs on my dime going foreward.... If needed :)

Crew

I keep seeing shadows of text and lines on my TV, they are very noticeable when you open the cable guide up. Can somebody please tell me what causes these?
http://myownpagein.googlepages.com/DSC01923.JPG

The side shadow is back on my tv. I had it replace Apr 26th 2006 I had the light engine replaced before already. Calling Samsung again, they better honor this under warrenty.

Update:
It is out of warranty but I said that because its the exact same issue and they should honor the warranty and cover the cost of repairs. The guy on the phone didn't have authority to authorize that so he forwarded the case to the ECR group to get this covered under warranty. I will hear from them within 5 business days. If I haven't heard anything by Wednesday of next week I'm to call back on Thursday and be transferred to the group to find out whats going on.

More to follow...


Anyone else have this show up a second time?

MikeAlletto, are you saying you've had it replaced before April 2006? Very few people here have had more than one replacement. It seems the first people to get the replacement have had it return. Keep on Samsung, don't take no for an answer, ask to speak to someone else and stay pleasant.

The side shadow is back on my tv. I had it replace Apr 26th 2006 I had the light engine replaced before already. Calling Samsung again, they better honor this under warrenty.

Update:
It is out of warranty but I said that because its the exact same issue and they should honor the warranty and cover the cost of repairs. The guy on the phone didn't have authority to authorize that so he forwarded the case to the ECR group to get this covered under warranty. I will hear from them within 5 business days. If I haven't heard anything by Wednesday of next week I'm to call back on Thursday and be transferred to the group to find out whats going on.

More to follow...


Anyone else have this show up a second time?

My first shadow showed up in September and replaced in October. It came back in January. SS is honoring the repair as a warranty item since the repair tech stated it was the same problem he fixed the TV for last October. My new LE is in but the repair tech cannot get to my front door tell next Thursday. I am having all sorts of concrete work done.

Question on Dithering.

I had a replacement LE about two months ago. I now notice more dithering, especially with shades of blue and black. I can see it from 10 feet away on my HL-R5078W. To rule out signal quality, I ran the "blank" DVD logo screen via component from my DVD player. I get noticeable dithering in the areas of blue. Also, on DVR recordings where there was very slight dithering, now with the new LE, there is much more.
Does anyone know how to deal with this?

Thanks!

The side shadow is back on my tv. I had it replace Apr 26th 2006 I had the light engine replaced before already. Calling Samsung again, they better honor this under warrenty.

Update:
It is out of warranty but I said that because its the exact same issue and they should honor the warranty and cover the cost of repairs. The guy on the phone didn't have authority to authorize that so he forwarded the case to the ECR group to get this covered under warranty. I will hear from them within 5 business days. If I haven't heard anything by Wednesday of next week I'm to call back on Thursday and be transferred to the group to find out whats going on.

More to follow...


Anyone else have this show up a second time?

Mike,
You may want to post your problem over on the "Shadow on left of Samsung ..." thread.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9729359&&#post9729359

MikeAlletto, are you saying you've had it replaced before April 2006? Very few people here have had more than one replacement. It seems the first people to get the replacement have had it return. Keep on Samsung, don't take no for an answer, ask to speak to someone else and stay pleasant.

Yeah I had it replaced Apr 26, 2006

Question on Dithering.

I had a replacement LE about two months ago. I now notice more dithering, especially with shades of blue and black. I can see it from 10 feet away on my HL-R5078W. To rule out signal quality, I ran the "blank" DVD logo screen via component from my DVD player. I get noticeable dithering in the areas of blue. Also, on DVR recordings where there was very slight dithering, now with the new LE, there is much more.
Does anyone know how to deal with this?

Thanks!Quick check... Have you adjusted your brightness control since the replacement. You could get noticable (increased) dithering if the brightness control is set too high.

Quick check... Have you adjusted your brightness control since the replacement. You could get noticable (increased) dithering if the brightness control is set too high.

I adjusted it both ways, and that had no effect on the amount of dithering.
I know it's bad, because it's noticeable from 10 feet away.
I even see it with blacks, during Law & Order in HD. I did not notice it with the old LE, but the color wheel made a noticeable high pitched hum. New LE has no such noise.
I'm out of the 15 months, but this service process began well before the warranty was up. I would expect that the continued needed repairs would be covered by Samsung.

Has anyone else had noticeable dithering on an HL-R?

Thanks.

I adjusted it both ways, and that had no effect on the amount of dithering.
I know it's bad, because it's noticeable from 10 feet away.
I even see it with blacks, during Law & Order in HD. I did not notice it with the old LE, but the color wheel made a noticeable high pitched hum. New LE has no such noise.
I'm out of the 15 months, but this service process began well before the warranty was up. I would expect that the continued needed repairs would be covered by Samsung.

Has anyone else had noticeable dithering on an HL-R?

Thanks.

You didn't mention what connection type you are using. If you're using HDMI, switching to composite might "soften" that up some. However, there is something even more profound you could try. As an experiment go into the service menu and turn DNIE off.

You didn't mention what connection type you are using. If you're using HDMI, switching to composite might "soften" that up some. However, there is something even more profound you could try. As an experiment go into the service menu and turn DNIE off.

Nothig seems to work. HDMI, Component, any adjustments, nothing makes it better.
Even on FOXHD, which has a great HD broadcast, I see plenty of dithering.
Black, blue and green have the worst problems.
I guess I have to get a service call.
How many service calls should I allow before I start getting upset?

Thanks

Hdtvbostonma, this sucks but they seem to have great service. Is there anything else you could test to eliminate the broadcast or cable signal? Maybe a game console or something besides the DVD logo screen? I think it would sound better if you had another example to tell them, otherwise they might want to blame it on the cable.

Ok, my father is looking to get a set. Does anyone here have a good, short answer on information comparing the Samsung with the LED LE to I guess these HL-Rs? Mag. has a 56 for $3k and I didn't believe it. I thought they were $1k more than the other models? That sounds like a steal.

Hdtvbostonma, this sucks but they seem to have great service. Is there anything else you could test to eliminate the broadcast or cable signal? Maybe a game console or something besides the DVD logo screen? I think it would sound better if you had another example to tell them, otherwise they might want to blame it on the cable.

I know that it will be blamed on the signal, but I've got old programs on my DVR from pre-new LE. I saved one to test PQ. Before, I would have very slifgt dithering, noticeable only up close and only during certain scenes with varying shades of purple. Now, the same recording shows drastically increased dithering during almost all scenes, noticeable from 10 ft away.
Last night, NASCAR on FOXHD had dithering in the night sky, and on the commentators suits. None in the shiny, bright car colors like orange and red though. NASCAR on FOXHD has always been one of the best broadcasts, and I've never noticed dithering on any of their coverage before last night.
There is no doubt that the PQ is worse on this LE, although the color wheel makes almost no noise. My old LE had the best PQ on any TV I have ever seen. People who came over agreed, and said that the TV had a better picture than any plasma.
How much leeway should I give Samsung? How are they at dealing with ongoing problems? I didn't spend $3K on a TV to have it decline in quality in 1 1/2 years.
The first replacement LE was defective, and taken out right away. Now the second has lower quality PQ. What's next?

Does anyone have advice on how to deal with this?

THANKS!

Hdtvbostonma, I don't know if I know how to deal with them but I do know that they won't deal with you if you get bent out of shape. I think you said you were out of warranty? I think you should be all set since its the same LE part that you've had issues with. When you call Samsung I don't know if its a good idea to mention the other service calls, probably not. If they mention it and you are out of warranty then I would mention how this is another unrelated issue. I guess I wouldn't even mention the LE or how many times its been replaced.

You don't want to get the runaround but I don't think you've had problems in the past. The service center should be familiar with the different LE related issues. People who call Samsung are always the first one to call with that problem and they never heard of it before. lol. You might want to consider getting an extended if you don't already have one.

I am new to this forum and this is my first post. I just recently bought a Samsung HL-S5088W I have comcast HD. My question is I am using the HDMI input for the comcast HD box, but I have split off a standard coax cable connected to the cable input and when a scroll though the input selector on the Samsung it does not give me the option for the cable coax connection just the air coax connection comes up the only way i can view the cable coax connection is in PIP mode. But even in PIP mode there is no option to swap to the cable connection. Is this normal operation or am I doing something wrong.

Jimchris, this is the HLR thread, not HLS. I think that is the only way it works, so I think you did that right. Btw I'm in Malden, hi! lol.

HLR5668W

Anyone see "Medium" last night in HD? I had the worst picture, particularly the black levels, that I have seen to date. When Allison and her husband were riding in the car (kind of a dark scene) the scenery from outside Allison's car window cast a strange faint pasty light inside the car and the characters almost looked clay-like. Also, on scene breaks when the screen went black, there was black/greyish blotchy pasty looking images across the screen.

Never really noticed anything like it before. All in all it was a pretty nasty looking HD broadcast. Turned it to ESPN HD and it looked fine.

Any comments?

SAEhlers, I noticed the clay face yesterday too and I was shocked. I can't remember what I was watching at the time though. lol. It was most likely NBC, but not Medium. I'd say it was NBC or Comsucks and not the set. The only time I saw the clay face was when stretching the SD picture when I first got the set, before I knew better!

SAEhlers, I have an HLS but I've noticed the same thing on NBC (not Medium) and I watch their HD over the air. Other channels are fine.

Question about DNIE.

Does someone have a link to the internals of this thread or instructions handy that describe how to turn it off? If it's not easy, don't worry, I'll search (I know it's in here somewhere).

Does turning off DNIE "stick"?

I have been running my 7178 for over a year now without ever turning off DNIE but I've run into a couple of issues now that dictate that I try it.

1) XBOX 360 with HD DVD over VGA has washed out blacks. DNIE has a dynamic black level. Based on what voltage levels I see on the VGA cable (blacker than black durring HSYNC), this DNIE could very well be the problem.

2) during black scenes, I see a "gray", wide (4" or so with undefined edges), horizontal line across the screen at about 4/5 up from the bottom. Before trying to Velux the interior of the set, I want to try turning off DNIE first.

Thanks!

Cary

Question about DNIE.

Does someone have a link to the internals of this thread or instructions handy that describe how to turn it off? If it's not easy, don't worry, I'll search (I know it's in here somewhere).

Does turning off DNIE "stick"?
In the DNIe submenu of the SM, set the following to off:

SNI_PROC_CEA OFF
SNI_PROC_CEP OFF
SNI_PROC_DEP OFF
SNI_PROC_DCE OFF
SNI_PROC_CCS OFF
SNI_PROC_BWS OFF
SNI_PROC_PCC OFF
SNI_PROC_WTE OFF
SNI_PROC_CTE OFF
SNI_PROC_CVD …
SNI_PROC_OUTP OFF

DNIe will "stick" off with these settings. However, there is a bug where on rare occasions DNIe can turn itself back on. (Sorry, I have forgotten what to do when this happens. Probably, just off/on cycle, but I do not know for sure.)[EDIT: See Milos47 post below for what's really going on.]

Here a link to a discussion of DNIe and the XBOX 360: DNIe & XBOX 360 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7413606&&#post7413606)

d/p

Don, thank you very very much!

Cary

DNIe will "stick" off with these settings. However, there is a bug where on rare occasions DNIe can turn itself back on. (Sorry, I have forgotten what to do when this happens. Probably, just off/on cycle, but I do not know for sure.)

Here a link to a discussion of DNIe and the XBOX 360: DNIe & XBOX 360 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7413606&&#post7413606)

I turned DNIe off a year ago, and it has stayed off. However, as I pointed out in post 10991 in this thread, black level often floats when you change inputs or scan rate/resolution. This is a known firmware bug in the HL-R series. The only solution I've seen is to reset Movie Mode (or your favorite alternative) after you change inputs or scan rates/resolutions. A macro-based remote control makes this tenable.

SAEhlers, I noticed the clay face again tonight during some commercials, on ABC now. I wonder if its comsucks?

Problem with picture

Sometimes when viewing a movie where there's underwater scenes (Red October or Finding Nemo) the background of the water is distinctly layered instead of being a subtle transition - that is - instead of being smooth transitions from light to dark areas in the water there's very distinct transitions - very pixelated.

what is this and can i adjust for it? my old yd crt tv never had this.

Problem with picture

Sometimes when viewing a movie where there's underwater scenes (Red October or Finding Nemo) the background of the water is distinctly layered instead of being a subtle transition - that is - instead of being smooth transitions from light to dark areas in the water there's very distinct transitions - very pixelated.

what is this and can i adjust for it? my old yd crt tv never had this.

You didn't mention what type of player you have or the connection type. However, here are some generalities (My Opinions, not necessarily fact).

1) Low bitrates exacerbate this problem. If you're wathcing an SD DVD movie or cable broadcast, I find these to pixelate in dark scenes.

2) I have both blu ray and hd dvd and these disks tend to hold up much better under dark scenes. They also have a higher bitrate than SD.

3) Lastly, I find that HDMI inputs tend to be worse than component. Component to my eyes seems to reduce this type of pixelation.

BTW: If you don't already have a good upscaling DVD player you might want to get one. It might help in your situation.

In any event, post your setup and you might get some more help from myself or others on this thread. It would help to determine a course of action.

You didn't mention what type of player you have or the connection type. However, here are some generalities (My Opinions, not necessarily fact).

1) Low bitrates exacerbate this problem. If you're wathcing an SD DVD movie or cable broadcast, I find these to pixelate in dark scenes.

2) I have both blu ray and hd dvd and these disks tend to hold up much better under dark scenes. They also have a higher bitrate than SD.

3) Lastly, I find that HDMI inputs tend to be worse than component. Component to my eyes seems to reduce this type of pixelation.

BTW: If you don't already have a good upscaling DVD player you might want to get one. It might help in your situation.

In any event, post your setup and you might get some more help from myself or others on this thread. It would help to determine a course of action.
Jameskollar -

thanks for the response.

my set-up

sd panasonic dvd player connected to tv directly via component cables
comcast hd dvr box connected to tv directly via hdmi

question about 1080p

i thought this tv was capable of handling 1080p through all inputs - is this not true. from my reading it seems like the pc input might be the only one capable of 1080p??? seems odd - if it can do it why can't hdmi???

thanks

For enquiring minds: Got the wedge shadow in lower left at 2794 hours of lamp operatons. Tech due Friday. (BTW, it's a 5678.)

i thought this tv was capable of handling 1080p through all inputs - is this not true.HL-R model is compatible with a 1080p signal on the VGA port only.

sd panasonic dvd player connected to tv directly via component cables
comcast hd dvr box connected to tv directly via hdmi

Do you see the same sort of problems with the comcast STB? Have you tried to duplicate the problem by connecting your STB via component?

BTW: I happen to own Red October in SD. I'll plop it in both my upscaling SD DVD player and my Toshiba A1 HD DVD. Any particular scene to look and details on what you are seeing would be helpful.

Jim

Problem with picture

Sometimes when viewing a movie where there's underwater scenes (Red October or Finding Nemo) the background of the water is distinctly layered instead of being a subtle transition - that is - instead of being smooth transitions from light to dark areas in the water there's very distinct transitions - very pixelated.

what is this and can i adjust for it? my old yd crt tv never had this.

I get the same thing on my HL-R TV, especially since my LE was replaced due to a noisy color wheel. I get very bad pixelation / dithering with dark (black, blue, green) colors, but not bright colors. I know it's not a signal problem, because I get it on what I know are excellent HD broadcasts, and it's only with certain colors. It's much worse on the "new" LE.

I put in Red October and it looked good, even in the dark scenes and upscaled. hdtvbostonma is probably correct.

I have a Samsung HLR5078W and I was told by my friend who has the same TV that the repairman pushed some buttons and the TV showed how many hours on the bulb.
Does anyone know what button sequence to find out this information.

Also is their any other secret codes I can use in the future?

Thanks
Iggy

I have a Samsung HLR5078W and I was told by my friend who has the same TV that the repairman pushed some buttons and the TV showed how many hours on the bulb.
Does anyone know what button sequence to find out this information.

Also is their any other secret codes I can use in the future?

Thanks
Iggy


Never Mine. I found the answer in a past msg.
To enter the Service Menu, press the following key sequence on the remote control: MUTE 1 8 2 POWER.

Moving around within the Service Menu is done in a similar manner to moving around the User Menu: the Up-Down arrows change the menu selection, the Right arrow key enters the new menu/selection, the Left/Right arrows change the value of the selection, and the Menu button exits a selection or menu.

To access the Lamp Life counter, enter the menu labeled "OPTION" (near the bottom). The 5th entry is "Lamp Life". When you eventually replace the bulb, access the 1st entry in the same menu ("Lamp Clear") to reset the counter.

Hey guys...I have a 5688W, and I've been lucky to avoid the shadow probs so far, but latey, my cable service has been screwy. I have Comcast and a CableCard. I've been having channels stop working. It was one or two a couple weeks ago, and then recently I lost all of my SD HBO (but the HD one works fine) and ESPN 2 HD stopped working, but turned up on another channel. (it went from 736 to 127). A bunch of the SD channels stopped working literally over night. The Comcast guys are here, and swapped the card out, but that didn't help. Same problems. They're still working on it as I type. Has anyone see this?

Thanks!
SV

WOW!! This forum still going.I havent posted in awhile.I can say my 5688 has still been going strong with 8086 hrs. Would probably had more if it werent for working out of town.
Spassvogel42 Ive had Direct since ive had the set.I've seen all the different cable Co on Samsungs and other HD TVs ,none to my opion,come close to Directs viewing.
I've never used the cable card so my help is short.

Well it's fixed. The Comcast boys showed up and had the people in the office restart the CableCard about five times. Then they gave up on that and swapped in a new one: same troubles. Then they got ahold of the local head engineer, and he said that it was a problem with the TV's channel mapping and it probably needs a firmware upgrade, which can be applied using the port on the back. Of course, reading this board, I know there's no such thing, so now I'm getting visions of having to get one of their cable boxes.

Then I'm fiddling in the menu and there's the "channel reorganization" thingy, and I hit that, and it thinks about it for about a minute, and voila...all the channels are back where they belong, all the dead channels work again. Only the channel reorginzation worked, none of the cablecard resetting things worked.

So basically, the cable guys lounged in my TV room on the phone with their techs for an hour, and then I figured it out, hehe.

(I can't complain, I like the guys).

SV

Spassvogel42, that's great that its fixed, even better that you figured it out. lol. Does anyone know what caused that issue?

Spassvogel42, that's great that its fixed, even better that you figured it out. lol. Does anyone know what caused that issue?

I have a CableCard and have this problem anytime the cable company relocates a channel to a different frequency. The TV can pick up new or deleted channels without problem but if the cable company just shuffles where there are transmitting the various digital signals this set is not smart enough to pick it up.

Anytime I lose a channel on this set but still have the channel on my Phillips set, which can handle this situation, I just do a reorganization and presto the lost channel is recovered.

Is anyone using a Wii on an HLR6168? How is the lag? I was thinking of buying the Crescendo RTC2000 YPrPb to VGA Transcoder (http://www.crescendo-systems.com/rev_transcoder.html) to convert the component to VGA to try and eliminate the lag. Is anyone doing a similar thing?

Is anyone using a Wii on an HLR6168? How is the lag? I was thinking of buying the Crescendo RTC2000 YPrPb to VGA Transcoder (http://www.crescendo-systems.com/rev_transcoder.html) to convert the component to VGA to try and eliminate the lag. Is anyone doing a similar thing?

I'm using it but I'm not sure how bad the lag is. It is very deceptive.
I almost exclusively play Zelda and Super Mario 64 which are very forgiving in their controls.

I never thought I had lag with the 360 either until I noticed my field goal/kickoffs in Madden07 where wildly off with component and spot on with VGA.

Hey. I have had my set for a year and a half. The warranty ran out 15 days ago... and guess what? I have a major problem! There is a vertical bar on the left side of the screen about an inch thick. The bar still displays the picture, but it as if the picture in this bar is set to the lowest brightness setting. The result is a significantly darker picture on a one inch vertical line on the left side of the screen. Any ideas? Thanks.

I attached some photos to see what I mean...

I couldnt be happier, they said they ran out of 87 and 88's,I ge tmy new one in April...its not the LED but hey its new and hopefully less pincushioning

Anyone know if...say.....you have a 1080p dvd player (blue-ray for example) if there is an adapter I can get not too expensive to convert to the VGA Input on my HL-R5678W to get 1080P? Also, why is it that the VGA only accepts the 1080P signal? I thought that is Analog and the dvi and HDMI and component are all digital? Analog can accept 1080P?

Chucho:

On your set the VGA is the only input that accepts 1080p. This is when you run your PC display attached to the D-sub connector (VGA) in 1920x1080. Your best bet is to install a blu-ray drive (or HD-DVD) in your PC and play your movies that way.

Whether its analog or digital, that's not going to affect the resolution the TV produces (480, 720 1080, etc) or how it does it. (interlaced or progressive).


-P_

The story:

Bought a HLR-5078W. Waited 4 weeks for it to come in. Worked fine except the fact that it would power off randomly. Called in for warranty. No in-home service, Samsung outsourced the job to so podunk local authorized warranty repair shop and they hauled the TV away and gave me a crappy 2x" CRT.

Throughout the process they tried replacing almost every component. Finally two and a half months later when I put pressure on the Office of the President for Samsung, they decided my set will be replaced with a new (equivalent) one.

The repair shop called today and said "Oh we'll be giving you HL-S5086W is that ok?". Well turns out its a 720p model. So I told them stop trying to gyp me and give me the TRUE current equivalent which is the HL-S5088W. Then they tell me that its going to be a returned product the same age as my set.

Finally the office of the president calls and I find out I'm actually getting the HL-S5087W which is 1080p and a nice set, but I can't get the 5088 because they don't offer it in Canada (DAMN I wanted to see what the new 10-bit processing looks like).

Anyway...it's really too bad I like the TV and I like what Samsung is trying to do with the technology but the way the warranty was handled...next time I buy a display (any display) I'm going to have a hard time buying Samsung even if it is the technically advanced product. After all why shell out thousands for a product that if it breaks in the first 6 months you'll wait 3 months to get it back.

Advice to current Samsung owners

If you have to do warranty repair, fight tooth and nail to have it done in-house and if they won't, request a list of authorized repair shops in your area and hand-pick which one does the job....otherwise...buy a Sony.



-P-

Hey. I have had my set for a year and a half. The warranty ran out 15 days ago... and guess what? I have a major problem! There is a vertical bar on the left side of the screen about an inch thick. The bar still displays the picture, but it as if the picture in this bar is set to the lowest brightness setting. The result is a significantly darker picture on a one inch vertical line on the left side of the screen. Any ideas? Thanks.

I attached some photos to see what I mean...

go here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=758625

There is a vertical bar on the left side of the screen about an inch thick.
Yes, I had the same problem. A piece of tape came loose and blocked some of the picture. Samsung could not have been more helpful. Technican came out and replaced the light engine. Picture is better than before.

This happened after 14 months but I had the extra three month warrenty since I registered my set.

Thanks for your help! I'm out of warranty by 15 days... so I guess I'm screwed!

Thanks for your help! I'm out of warranty by 15 days... so I guess I'm screwed!
Read thru the thread I sent you to above. There are many reports of getting it fixed out of warranty and the people to call. Check it out before you pay for anything.

Hi, everyone! I've been following this thread for a while but just joined. I've had a HL-R5668W since 1/06. I have also calibrated the DVD source using Avia DVE. Last night I noticed that the darkest areas in the movie scenes were like a flat black. I seem to remember seeing a problem with these sets called "black crush" that might be what I was seeing last night. I tried searching the forums and google be did not find what I was looking for. And the forum search gave way too many results for me to read them all. Does anyone know about this and know how to get rid of it?

Other than this, the set has worked perfectly. After following this thread though, I did purchase an extended warranty. But so far...no problems!

Thanks for your help.

Hi, everyone! I've been following this thread for a while but just joined. I've had a HL-R5668W since 1/06. I have also calibrated the DVD source using Avia DVE. Last night I noticed that the darkest areas in the movie scenes were like a flat black. I seem to remember seeing a problem with these sets called "black crush" that might be what I was seeing last night. I tried searching the forums and google be did not find what I was looking for. And the forum search gave way too many results for me to read them all. Does anyone know about this and know how to get rid of it?

Other than this, the set has worked perfectly. After following this thread though, I did purchase an extended warranty. But so far...no problems!

Thanks for your help.

In the user setting area the only three things you can do to get rid of this is Contrast, Brightness and Color (using Movie mode helps a bit too since it turns gamma to 0). You can turn Sharpness to 10 but I never see much difference here.

I have my Contrast around 70, brightness around 55 and color around 35 using movie mode. I have gotten rid of most of it.

The only better solution is to get your set professionally calibrated.

In the SM, DDP1011(L8) sub menu there is a setting for FPGA Select. By default its set to xHD3. It can also be set to xHD4. I thought the HLR's were xHD4 DLP's so I was wondering why that setting is not chosen.

What exactly does this setting do?

In the SM, DDP1011(L8) sub menu there is a setting for FPGA Select. By default its set to xHD3. It can also be set to xHD4. I thought the HLR's were xHD4 DLP's so I was wondering why that setting is not chosen.

What exactly does this setting do?

Change it and see what happens. :)
Probably nothing, since you can also select either 120W or 132W lamp settings. It made no difference in my set.

In the SM, DDP1011(L8) sub menu there is a setting for FPGA Select. By default its set to xHD3. It can also be set to xHD4. I thought the HLR's were xHD4 DLP's so I was wondering why that setting is not chosen.

What exactly does this setting do?According to the service manual, the HL-R's have the xHD3 DMD panel.

Personally, this is one of the few settings I have not had the guts to change for totally imaginary reasons. Halco is probably on the mark, but I'd let someone else be first on this one.

Thanks for your help! I'm out of warranty by 15 days... so I guess I'm screwed!

no, no, no you shouldn't be screwed. Take a look at that thread--there are many people that have had the shadow issue fixed even if it was out of warranty. Be sure to push Samsung on it.

jpe

Kawowski, I didn't bother to read the thread but, lol. The two things I know work are don't take no for an answer, stay on them and stay calm and pleasant when dealing with them. Anything else will get you no where, which has happened to too many people here. I'd also add to read and follow the thread, which I imagine has the best advice and information and check back here if things don't work out the way they should, before continuing. I was shocked that someone here, on the previous page had a service problem? There shouldn't be any more service issues this late in the game. That is totally ridiculous. Don't get me started. lol.

Thanks so much for your help everyone!

Change it and see what happens. :)
Probably nothing, since you can also select either 120W or 132W lamp settings. It made no difference in my set.

Actually I did have it set to xHd4 for years since I thought the set was an HD4 chip. I honestly cannot say it does anything and it certainly does not hurt the set. I think another sub menu is turned on if you set it to this but again, I have no idea what this setting or the submenu is supposed to achieve.

In the SM, DDP1011(L8) sub menu there is a setting for FPGA Select. By default its set to xHD3. It can also be set to xHD4. I thought the HLR's were xHD4 DLP's so I was wondering why that setting is not chosen.

What exactly does this setting do?

When I was shopping for an hdtv, and was rather disappointed with the current selection at the time, I came across an article raving about Samsung's newest tv (HL-R5688W) with the HD3 chip, how to him it was the first real hdtv he liked. He said to make sure to look for the '88' in the model number because that was the code for the HD3.

So it's no surprise that HD3 shows up in the menu because that's the particular chip this set uses. And it's also why I bought this particular tv. :D

When I was shopping for an hdtv, and was rather disappointed with the current selection at the time, I came across an article raving about Samsung's newest tv (HL-R5688W) with the HD3 chip, how to him it was the first real hdtv he liked. He said to make sure to look for the '88' in the model number because that was the code for the HD3.

So it's no surprise that HD3 shows up in the menu because that's the particular chip this set uses. And it's also why I bought this particular tv. :D

When the sets were still not shipping, and even after, this was a huge debate and I am not sure if it was ever solved. See the info at the beginning of this thread.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=493443

So I am still up in the air on what chip the HLR 68/78/88's have.

The HL-R 68's & 78's have the xHD3 chip and the HL-R 88's (Kirk/pedestal model) has the HD3 chip. Many folks liked the HD3 chip because it presented a sharper, "more 3-D" image. FWIW...

donb1948, interesting chip info. I have the 5688 Kirk and was wondering if you knew what the difference between the xHD3 chip and the HD3 chip is. I agree about the better pic and was wondering what the difference is. Thanks for any info.

donb1948, interesting chip info. I have the 5688 Kirk and was wondering if you knew what the difference between the xHD3 chip and the HD3 chip is. I agree about the better pic and was wondering what the difference is. Thanks for any info.My bad on this one... I incorrectly remembered the designation for the chip in the HL-R 88's. I could not remember the differences, so I went back to look at some of the posts of htwaits, schaffer970 and UCSB who researched and presented a lot of the info on the different chips. There was a lot of speculation back then that is difficult to separate from fact in a short review. However, the HD3 is definitely a 720p chip, so it is NOT in the HL-R5688, which is a 1080p set. (The xHD3 is a 1080p chip.) I "remember" that folks found the 88's to have better picture quallity and the belief was a different chip accounted for the difference but in the quick search that I did, I can not find references to support this position. So I guess I need to quote Chris "So I am still up in the air on what chip the HLR 68/78/88's have." Sorry about that...

EDIT: Found a number of fairly reliable references that say the chip in the '88 is the xHD4. Any one got a service manual?

I have a service manual for the 5688. Where do I look?

The only pic I saw with a chip # was xHD3, so I guess thats the one.

I have a service manual for the 5688. Where do I look?

The only pic I saw with a chip # was xHD3, so I guess thats the one.That's interesting... Which begs the original question, why did the HL-R 88's have what was considered to be better picture quality? Another question for future technology historians to ponder...

I guess until someone actually goes into the guts of this TV and looks at the chip inside we'll never know for sure. Originally it was speculated that the better pic was a result of the different angle of the projection and a different screen which improved the pic, just people guessing.

If indeed you are interested in the chip history of the HLR's, you might want to look at this thread: Samsung 2005 DLP HDTV Discussion --- HLRxxxxW Models (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=493443&highlight=samsung+2005). In post #1 UCSB put all of the information that was known from CES and then gathered until the sets finally came out. Once the sets came out we created this thread for the 1080p sets and another thread for the 720p sets. In post #1 is the following information that I gathered.

Comments by Schaffer970 (AVSforum Member)
I have spent countless hours scouring the internet trying to figure out what the chip scheme is that TI is/will be using. Just lately things have fallen in place for me and I think I have it figured out (of course all of this may be BS too). The most recent developments in chip technologies made by TI are something called Fast Track Pixel (FTP) and DarkChip3. FTP actually changes the chip architecture (there is one less layer and the chip is easier to manufacture, see attachment) while DarkChip3, as I understand it, adds a coating to minimize light scattering from within the chip (I am not completely sure where FTP stops and DarkChip3 starts but it really doesn’t matter). What this all results in, is that the HD4 chip is a HD3 chip with FTP/DarkChip3 and the xHD4 is xHD3 with FTP/DarkChip3. I believe that for at least this year, the only new chips we will see will be the wobbulated HD4/xHD4. It would not surprise me to see a non-wobbulated chip in 2006.

I believe the naming scheme that TI seems to have settled on is the chip diagonal size followed by 720p, 1080p or some other designation such as XGA. So far we have .55 XGA, .8 720p (in the SIM2 HT300E), and rumors of .85 1080p.

In the mean time, the sets that Samsung is putting out seem to continue to have the existing HD2+ or HD3 chips in them with the inputs updated. Hopefully things will become clear as to when we will see the new chips over the next couple of months (look for the inclusion of DarkChip3 in info from Samsung).

If I still have everythig straight, what actually happened was that the sets contained the .85 1080p the wobbulated chip still used today. The service menu in the Sammys used the xHD3 designation. There is a non wobbulated chip that is being used in some projectors but it has not shown up in any rear projection sets as far as I know.

Hope this helps! :D

Schaffer970... Not sure "it helps." :D But, great hearing from you again. :)

hey guys new to the site nice info i have the i have the HL-R6768W just today i noticed when watching tv that the top and bottom are expanded cutting off the picture :example you know the station ID at the bottom right well that is pretty much gone and if it was at the top it would be gone also just wondering if that is a service issue or something i could do myself

hey guys new to the site nice info i have the i have the HL-R6768W just today i noticed when watching tv that the top and bottom are expanded cutting off the picture :example you know the station ID at the bottom right well that is pretty much gone and if it was at the top it would be gone also just wondering if that is a service issue or something i could do myself

First make sure that your TV is in 16:9 mode and not one of the panoramic settings (I assume you are talking about TV view since you stated station ID). If your set is in 16:9 mode (check each station because I think it remembers the picture mode for each station) then there is nothing you can do about it. It has some amount of overscan (~2.5%-5%).

problem with hdmi to vga is that bluray needs to pass hdcp across to tv and vga being analog will not pass the handshake along so the HLR series TV will not recognize 1080p from bluray source the best I can figure. Best chance is for everyone to press Samsung for a firmware upgrade to the hdmi input on these units to accept 1080p thru hdmi, the newer models accept the 1080p thur hdmi.

problem with hdmi to vga is that bluray needs to pass hdcp across to tv and vga being analog will not pass the handshake along so the HLR series TV will not recognize 1080p from bluray source the best I can figure. Best chance is for everyone to press Samsung for a firmware upgrade to the hdmi input on these units to accept 1080p thru hdmi, the newer models accept the 1080p thur hdmi.

Markrfrench. It would be nice for those of us who bought the HLR series to enjoy or should I say get the benefit of 1080P input. I am sure Samsung has not done a firmware upgrade before. So I am not going to hold my breath.

Markrfrench. It would be nice for those of us who bought the HLR series to enjoy or should I say get the benefit of 1080P input. I am sure Samsung has not done a firmware upgrade before. So I am not going to hold my breath.
I agree that to have a "1080P" set that really can't take any 1080P input except from a pc is not my idea of a honest marketing effort of a 1080P TV when they were being sold. I have been on the phone with Samsung many times over this issue and the only hope I have short of purchasing a newer TV(which is not happening anytime soon) is to get enough people to "request" Samsung to consider a firmware patch or upgrade to these units to be able to actually be a 1080P TV, the units themselves are capable except for one big problem none of the inputs are 1080P capable except the analog VGA so why call it a 1080P branded on the front of the TV?. The only consumer market true 1080P source is HD DVD or Bluray and they only output 1080p thru HDMI at least most models that I am aware of. I know that Samsung may monitor forums such as this and if there is enough discusion about the issue then maybe they would feel the need to address it. Although like you I am not holding my breath just merely hoping for a miracle. BTW I love my HL-R7178W except for this one issue, everything else about it has been great with no other problems.

Good luck on the 1080p misinformation by Samsung. I tried like crazy when I first bought the TV, but Samsung denied ANY appearance of misinformation.

Is 1080p from HD-DVD / Blue ray 1080p/30 or 1080p/60?
I believe that most 1080p sources have been at 30, which means that we already have that display capability. Our TV's show convert 1080i to 1080p/30 (shown twice a second to make 1080p/60.
If source material is at 30, then the scaler in the HLR will show it at 60.
We'd just have to change to output on the HD-DVD/Blue Ray to 1080i.

I noticed that there is a tech info thread for the HLS series.
Is there one for the HLR?

Good luck on the 1080p misinformation by Samsung. I tried like crazy when I first bought the TV, but Samsung denied ANY appearance of misinformation.

Is 1080p from HD-DVD / Blue ray 1080p/30 or 1080p/60?
I believe that most 1080p sources have been at 30, which means that we already have that display capability. Our TV's show convert 1080i to 1080p/30 (shown twice a second to make 1080p/60.
If source material is at 30, then the scaler in the HLR will show it at 60.
We'd just have to change to output on the HD-DVD/Blue Ray to 1080i.

Actually I think I read that BD was 1080p24, but 30 is close enough. Trouble may be in the spec. They may want a handshake with a device that promises to accept a P24 or P30 source. In that case we are probably screwed because I think we can only accept a 1080i60 and not a 1080p30.

Actually I think I read that BD was 1080p24, but 30 is close enough. Trouble may be in the spec. They may want a handshake with a device that promises to accept a P24 or P30 source. In that case we are probably screwed because I think we can only accept a 1080i60 and not a 1080p30.

I have both BD and HD DVD. I get both inputs at 1080i from both sources. No problems. Picture looks great! No need to worry about 24fps as DLP sets, as in all dlp sets cannot do 24fps.

I have both BD and HD DVD. I get both inputs at 1080i from both sources. No problems. Picture looks great! No need to worry about 24fps as DLP sets, as in all dlp sets cannot do 24fps.
I know that movies are filmed at 24fps, and 3:2 pulldown is used to convert the images for TV viewing.
As far as the 1080p 30 vs 60, is anything filmed at 1080p/60?
If it's not, then there is no difference between our 1080p and HLS 1080p, except the TV accepting a 1080p60 feed. The end result should be the same.

I have both BD and HD DVD. I get both inputs at 1080i from both sources. No problems. Picture looks great! No need to worry about 24fps as DLP sets, as in all dlp sets cannot do 24fps.

This is not just about the machine, which can do 1080i just fine, but also about the content. If the content providers decide you mush have a 1080p24/30 to see their content in 1080, it won't happen on this set.

This is the big reason I won't buy another PC or CE device until we see this stuff in the marketplace for at least a year of service. :(

I know that movies are filmed at 24fps, and 3:2 pulldown is used to convert the images for TV viewing.
As far as the 1080p 30 vs 60, is anything filmed at 1080p/60?
If it's not, then there is no difference between our 1080p and HLS 1080p, except the TV accepting a 1080p60 feed. The end result should be the same.

I don't believe there is anything available on the commercial marketplace that is 1080p60. There's a Sony cameara that can do 1080p60 but it costs around $90,000. Gotta be a real serious hobbyist to get one of those. :D

This is not just about the machine, which can do 1080i just fine, but also about the content. If the content providers decide you mush have a 1080p24/30 to see their content in 1080, it won't happen on this set.

This is the big reason I won't buy another PC or CE device until we see this stuff in the marketplace for at least a year of service. :(

Content providers don't control that kinda stuff, the hardware manufactures do. There is not a single BD or HD DVD player that cannot output 1080i. Content in many cases is indeed at 1080p24 but the hardware takes care of converting it. Content providers can do one thing that is nasty IMO, and that is turn on the down rez flag for component output.

It was thought that one could pirate a moview using component outs so there is a flag that if set will force the player to only output in something just a tad better that SD DVD. To date, they have not done this and I've read the earliest this would happen is 2010. HDMI connections are not affected by this.

But back to the main point. I am not worried at all about content providers forcing 1080p on us. So, come on in, the waters fine.

problem with hdmi to vga is that bluray needs to pass hdcp across to tv and vga being analog will not pass the handshake along so the HLR series TV will not recognize 1080p from bluray source the best I can figure. Best chance is for everyone to press Samsung for a firmware upgrade to the hdmi input on these units to accept 1080p thru hdmi, the newer models accept the 1080p thur hdmi.
Just so you are aware, a firmware update will not enable 1080p over HDMI. There is hardware in the set (specifically the HDMI receivers from Silicon Image) that simply will not do 1080p. When the HLR series was designed 1080p was extremely cutting edge and the hardware to do 1080p just wasn't quite ready.

Just so you are aware, a firmware update will not enable 1080p over HDMI. There is hardware in the set (specifically the HDMI receivers from Silicon Image) that simply will not do 1080p. When the HLR series was designed 1080p was extremely cutting edge and the hardware to do 1080p just wasn't quite ready.


So we have two choices: pressure Samsung to switch hardware or buy the HLS series to get 1080P input.

So all of this fuss about the HLR not accepting 1080p is nothing, right?
If source material is filmed at 24fps, it doesn't matter what the TV outputs.
It could have 1080p1,000,000, and it will not look any better than on my HLR.
Just like a static picture on a SD 480 set. It looks the same at 480p as it does at 480i.

My HLR IS receiving 1080P over VGA from the HD-DVD drive and it looks great. I've compared the same movie on my upconverting DVD connected HDMI and the HD-DVD and there is no comparison. I rent the HD-DVD's from NetFlix. I had the VGA port calibrated for both geometry and color when I had my set professionally done.

If you bought the HLR you should have known what you got. By the way watching movies at 1080i over HDMI from my friends PlayStation 3 looks pretty freaking good also.

Instead of bitching about 1080i vs 1080P, how about bitching about the lack of high def content in either!

My HLR IS receiving 1080P over VGA from the HD-DVD drive and it looks great. I've compared the same movie on my upconverting DVD connected HDMI and the HD-DVD and there is no comparison. I rent the HD-DVD's from NetFlix. I had the VGA port calibrated for both geometry and color when I had my set professionally done.

If you bought the HLR you should have known what you got. By the way watching movies at 1080i over HDMI from my friends PlayStation 3 looks pretty freaking good also.

Instead of bitching about 1080i vs 1080P, how about bitching about the lack of high def content in either!

No complaining, just trying to get some confirmation on p vs i.
BTW-Samsung CS told me before I bought my HLR that it DID accept 1080p over HDMI.

If the HD-DVD material is not shot in 1080p, then it should look the same on an HLR as it does on an HLS. The signals will be scaled somewhere along the line.
A movie is filmed at 24fps. It is still 24fps whether it's shown in 1080p/30 (this is how the HLR shows it) or 1080p/60 (HLS).
There should be no difference.
The only time that there will be a difference is when (if ever) source material is actually recorded at 60fps.

My HLR IS receiving 1080P over VGA from the HD-DVD drive and it looks great. I've compared the same movie on my upconverting DVD connected HDMI and the HD-DVD and there is no comparison. I rent the HD-DVD's from NetFlix. I had the VGA port calibrated for both geometry and color when I had my set professionally done.

If you bought the HLR you should have known what you got. By the way watching movies at 1080i over HDMI from my friends PlayStation 3 looks pretty freaking good also.

Not sure what you are trying to say. :confused: Is the HD-DVD better over VGA as opposed to HDMI? What player are you using. I assume a 1080p capable player like the xA2 not the A1/XA1 or A2 (I know, not an exhaustive list).

I also agree that Blu Ray does look very good over HDMI. I own the Philips player. Its a lousy upscaler (I use my Tosh A1 for that, it's really good!).

BTW: Not all 24fps scaled up to 60fps in High def players is the same. Some players deinterlace the signal to add the 3:2 pull down and then interlace it to get 1080p at 60fps. It doesn't stay progressive throughout the chain and causes some minor degradation in the PQ.

So all of this fuss about the HLR not accepting 1080p is nothing, right?
If source material is filmed at 24fps, it doesn't matter what the TV outputs.
It could have 1080p1,000,000, and it will not look any better than on my HLR.
Just like a static picture on a SD 480 set. It looks the same at 480p as it does at 480i.

IMO, close enough. Really it's the 3:2 pulldown that in my opinion is the problem. Those of us used to watching NTSC have become used to the 3:2 pull down but it does cause a certain amount of judder. PAL uses 50fps and does not require a 3:2 pulldown for 24fps. As I understand it they merely frame double and stretch the sound a tad.

I'm happy with 1080i and except for games, there are not any TRUE 1080p/60 sources. I don't play games so I don't care.

I'm propbably going to stick with DLP technology and because of the room I have I'll need a Rear Projection set. Currently there are not any RP DLPs that do 24fps without the 3:2 pulldown. However, there are DLP projectors that do 1920/1080 at 24fps natively. These projectors do not require the deinterlace'interlace step making for a more movie like experience.

When the first native RP 1080i/p sets were introduced, the DLP projectors did not support 1080i/p. Tables have turned, projectors have the latest technology and I hope the RP's catch up. I want a bigger screen and I want 24fps.

Alright, hopefully someone here can help me. I own an HL-R6168W, and have been following this thread since I bought it, but haven't seen this issue.
I'm not sure when this started, but when I put it in Movie mode some of the greens appear red. It's most apparent in the xbox 360 menu, which appears completely red, and in Open Season much of the greenery is red. I've checked it on both hdmi and component. The other modes seem to look normal, even when switching between cool and warm settings. I have turned off some of the DNIe settings in the service menu, but have never had the set calibrated.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Alright, hopefully someone here can help me. I own an HL-R6168W, and have been following this thread since I bought it, but haven't seen this issue.
I'm not sure when this started, but when I put it in Movie mode some of the greens appear red. It's most apparent in the xbox 360 menu, which appears completely red, and in Open Season much of the greenery is red. I've checked it on both hdmi and component. The other modes seem to look normal, even when switching between cool and warm settings. I have turned off some of the DNIe settings in the service menu, but have never had the set calibrated.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

What about switching to a cooler setting? I think between the color settings Warm1 and Warm2 etc plus the gamma being 0, the other changes are user control panel made from Movie to Standard.

You may be in for a calibration if this does not fix your problem. Of course you could probably get real close by going into the SM and setting Gamma to 0.

In movie mode you can't switch to a cooler setting. However, on custom or standard I can turn it up to warm2 and it seems to work normally. Even if I turn the Color up to 100 the problem doesn't appear in the other modes, although people turn interesting colors of red.

I'm not sure when this started, but when I put it in Movie mode some of the greens appear red. It's most apparent in the xbox 360 menu, which appears completely red, and in Open Season much of the greenery is red. I've checked it on both hdmi and component. The other modes seem to look normal, even when switching between cool and warm settings. I have turned off some of the DNIe settings in the service menu, but have never had the set calibrated.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

I've seen this when Index Delay is wrong. This can be adjusted in the Service Menu (sub-menu "Service", item "Index Delay"). My current value is 61. There are many on-line descriptions about how to adjust this. None of them have ever made any sense to me. I tweak until all colored ramps are linear and clean. YMMV.

Hi folks, a few questions: Has anyone had to put in a new lamp yet (how long did the original last)?

I builded a wood media center around the TV (61 DLP). I need to have supports running up the sides of the TV. For cooling purposes, where are the air vents? And where is the lamp access door?
Thanx in advance.

If you have a remote that can be programmed with "hex codes" (RTI, for example), then you can set up a couple of custom functions:

Enter Service Menu: "Info" followed by "Service Menu".

Exit Service Menu: "Service Menu" followed by "Service Menu".

"Info" hex code:
0000 006D 0000 0022 00AB 00AB 0014 0040 0014 0040 0014 0040 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0040 0014 0040 0014 0040 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0040 0014 0040 0014 0040 0014 0040 0014 0040 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0040 0014 0040 0014 0040 0014 0714

"Service Menu" hex code:
0000 006D 0000 0022 00AB 00AB 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0715

In other words, while the TV is on, simply invoke "Enter Service Menu". When you're done with the service menu, simply invoke "Exit Service Menu". Yes, exiting requires *two* invocations of the "Service Menu" code (to get past the infamous "aging" non-error code). One button press to get in, another to get out. Nothing could be simpler.

Thanks so much for these hex codes! I've been looking for a way to macro the overscan setting on my s6187w that won't retain it through a power cycle. I looked for what seemed like forever for a way of sidestepping a power cycle just to enter the darn SM. Now I can finally do the macro the right way.

Thanks so much for these hex codes! I've been looking for a way to macro the overscan setting on my s6187w that won't retain it through a power cycle. I looked for what seemed like forever for a way of sidestepping a power cycle just to enter the darn SM. Now I can finally do the macro the right way.

You're welcome. You appear to have an "HL-S" model, which is one year newer than my "HL-R". I'm glad the codes still work.

The next bit of advice may not apply to you if Samsung fixed a firmware problem when they advanced from R to S models. On the older sets, you need to insert "Movie Mode" (or any other in the same family that you tend to use instead) *after* switching to a new input (tuner, HDMI, component, whatever). That's because the black level ("brightness") often (but not always) floats to an incorrect value after the switch. Here are the Mode codes for HL-R sets:


STANDARD MODE
0000 006D 0000 0022 00AC 00AB 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0680

MOVIE MODE
0000 006D 0000 0022 00AC 00AB 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0041 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0680

DYNAMIC MODE
0000 006D 0000 0022 00AC 00AC 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0040 0016 0015 0016 0715

Re Index Delay, the correct setting is when Red is truly Red so for example

If you are adjusting the index delay and the red starts to change to a pinkish or purple at 48 ............then as you increase its starts to to pinkish or purple at 68 the correct index delay is the median , or in this example 58

I'm curious to know the different modes are actually changing. In DVE they suggest that the grayscale is what is changed. If that is the case, how is that related to index delay? Perhaps I just don't understand how grayscale is modified.

Also, index delay, as far as I can tell, is a global change. Why would I only see the effect in movie mode? Would it not be evident in all modes? :confused: This problem is making me feel retarded, I've never read so many things that I can't come close to understanding. :confused:

hello guys, just wanted to get your opinion on setting up the HL-R5688W to get the best picture possible using the user menu, not the system menu.

i would like to know the best settings to have while watching HD channels ( using cablevision hd)

thanks!!!

I have this tv (the 1080p pedestal) and have excellent results using the movie mode, moving the contrast down to 60 and leaving everything else default. I have DNle on and video noise reduction on as well. I use component cables as I found that on this tv the picture is smoother, with better color than using HDMI. Also, SD is better with component. Sound works best using the optical out of the tv and optical into your receiver, going directly from the cable box to the receiver results in lots of lip sync problems, unless you use some sort of audio delay.

Enjoy. This tv is great!

hello guys, just wanted to get your opinion on setting up the HL-R5688W to get the best picture possible using the user menu, not the system menu.

i would like to know the best settings to have while watching HD channels ( using cablevision hd)

1. Buy the "Digital Video Essentials" DVD.

2. Warm up your TV for 30 minutes.

3. Repeat the following steps for each input (including tuner):

4. Set Picture > Mode = Movie.

5. On Title 12, Chapters 2 & 3: Adjust Brightness until -4% stripe fades into background and +2% stripe is barely visible.

6. On Title 12, Chapter 14: Adjust Contrast until all white patches at high end of ramps are as distinct as possible. If white crush cannot be eliminated, try reducing Contrast in DVD player settings and repeat.

7. On Title 12, Chapter 7: Adjust Color through blue filter until *outer pair* of stripe/patch pairs match as closely as possible. Adjust Tint (if available for this input) through blue filter until *inner pair* of stripe/patch pairs match as closely as possible.

8. On Title 12, Chapter 17: Adjust Sharpness until black/gray edges are clean without any artificial edge enhancement.

That's all you can do with the User Menu. Frankly, it's fairly simple to use the Service Menu to improve things more (V & H Position, Actuator Gain, Index Delay, Gamma, DNIe elimination). If you want to try that, just ask.

Gastoncapo, you might also look at Tune Up on INHD on Sun at 7am every once in a while, I'm not sure if its once a month. You just missed it today but you can do a search for it.

wow guys thanks so much for your help!! i love this place :)

i will play with all the settings posted above and will choose which one looks better to my eye. (got some Dni settings off and others on which to my eye gives an incredible difference between the factory settings and my costum settings).
I have had this tv since last year..and thank GOD i have never had any problem whatsoever! ( touches wood),the picture quality is out of this world compared to other much more expensive tvs, i have the cable box hooked via hdmi and user settings set to custom, which i play with every now and then, depending if im watching stv or hdtv channels.First thing im gonna do is try the movie mode..since i read alot about getting the best results on this mode, should i also use/calibrate my tohisba hd dvd player on movie mode? just curious hehe.

Thanks a lot guys for your answers and help! i really appreciate it.
Time to get the calibration disc and start playing around then.

good luck to you all my friends

Its the HL-S5687W and I just want a black stand that can support it and is durable.

http://www.ifurn.com/ameriwood_ST5695GUS.html

you guys got any ideas? trying to save as much as possible.

That is the cheapest one I have found thus far.

Joey Cusack, this is the HL-R forum but I guess it doesn't matter for furniture. I am shocked at the great price on that, I didn't notice what they charge for S/H? The catch looks like the two grommets or something on the top? That could be a problem. Also it looks like its tapered in the back and you might want to confirm the angle and dimensions. You might go to the manufacturer's web site for more info or a better pic. I guess I wouldn't buy something online unless I was sure it was right. The pic could be better.

I have an older Samsung HLM4365W. I have DNIe on in Demo and cannot get it turned off. I probably changed a setting in the SM and although I wrote the original settings down and put everything back to the original settings i'm betting I missed something. I did a google search and came up with this thread. (This after posting my problem elsewhere in this forum a week ago and getting no response). I cannot turn off the demo in any mode in the User Menu.. setting it to movie makes no diff.... any ideas? :confused:

I have an older Samsung HLM4365W. I have DNIe on in Demo and cannot get it turned off. I probably changed a setting in the SM and although I wrote the original settings down and put everything back to the original settings i'm betting I missed something. I did a google search and came up with this thread. (This after posting my problem elsewhere in this forum a week ago and getting no response). I cannot turn off the demo in any mode in the User Menu.. setting it to movie makes no diff.... any ideas? :confused:

My only experience is with Samsung HL-R series, where you enter the service menu, navigate to the DNie menu, and then TURN ON and then TURN OFF all parameters with names beginning with SNI (nine or ten of them). I say TURN ON and then TURN OFF because the HL-R series appears to have a firmware bug that sometimes displays a parameter in one state when it's actually in another. Forcing ON/OFF seems to work, however.

Also, the HL-R series replicates these parameters for each input (including both OTA and QAM tuners). That means that you need to repeat the procedure above for each input that you are using.

OK.. I'm not quite an owner yet... but I have looked at several of the Samsung, and am really impressed with the pictures/features... It has to be the 56" or it won't fit in my family room layout..

How do I figure out all the model numbers...? Anyone know of a cheat sheet that let's me quickly compare the value of each model... ? Is XX88 better than XX78... Do I want HL-R or HL-S...? Etc.

And... anyone have a strong opinion on the LED vs LAMP models...?

THANKS in advance...

OK.. I'm not quite an owner yet... but I have looked at several of the Samsung, and am really impressed with the pictures/features... It has to be the 56" or it won't fit in my family room layout..

How do I figure out all the model numbers...? Anyone know of a cheat sheet that let's me quickly compare the value of each model... ? Is XX88 better than XX78... Do I want HL-R or HL-S...? Etc.

And... anyone have a strong opinion on the LED vs LAMP models...?

THANKS in advance...

First off you should know that the HLx designates the set type with the x being the model year. R was for 2005, S for 2006 and T for 2007. So if you want the latest technology, just look at the new T models. I doubt you can even find R's that are new anymore.

You will need to check the specs and features for what you want. Things like number and types of inputs, the physical size etc are personal preferences. Each model year has its own thread (not sure if the T has one yet). This thread is for the R models and hence we are mostly discussing our experiences with this older model. There is also on on the S models and a related thread on both models that have a 'shadow' problem.

On the LED front vs DLP you will have to decide which is better. I have not looked at the T LEDs yet but for my picture size the S LED was a downgrade from the DLP in terms of picture quality in my opinion. UMMV

I have searched and searched and only found one person who posted their service menu settings after having their set professionally calibrated.I know that each set is different...yada, yada, yada.....but when I searched this forum for my dad's hdtv, it only took a matter of minutes to find people who have posted their settings for their sony sets after having them professionally calibrated. After making these changes to my dads tv it looks great. I am beginning to wonder if the line of "every set is different" is a hoax. I know I am asking a lot but would someone please post or pm me their service menu settings after having their set professionally calibrated.

I have searched and searched and only found one person who posted their service menu settings after having their set professionally calibrated.I know that each set is different...yada, yada, yada.....but when I searched this forum for my dad's hdtv, it only took a matter of minutes to find people who have posted their settings for their sony sets after having them professionally calibrated. After making these changes to my dads tv it looks great. I am beginning to wonder if the line of "every set is different" is a hoax. I know I am asking a lot but would someone please post or pm me their service menu settings after having their set professionally calibrated.

With all due respect, you're asking a lot. These sets replicate critical parameters per input and resolution. Just considering OTA, QAM, HDMI{1,2}, Component{1,2}, and PC VGA... without counting composite and S-video... calibration touches between 175 and 200 parameters inside the Service Menu. DVD player and PC video card tweaks are additional.

Let's see. Even entering and leaving the Service Menu without changing anything (for the purpose, say, of satisfying your request) requires resetting 42 values in the User Menu to their predictable but not default values (assuming seven inputs and resolutions). Why should anyone who has paid $400-800 for ISF-certified calibration bother to post a spreadsheet, TXT or DOC file, or even digital photographs of dozens of screen shots... on the questionable assumption that those peculiar numbers would bring anyone else's set even close to optimal performance? For sure, I know that certain global parameters (Actuator Gain and Index Delay) vary by more than 25% among correctly calibrated sets.

Personally, I respect and value the experience and expertise of professional calibrators. If you truly want the results they can deliver, then I submit that you should pay their fees. Anything else is akin to downloading music without compensation. Or do you want that for free, too?

I am just looking for a little help....very similar to your request on post number 10336, and I quote "Any ideas? Anybody got their VGA input correctly calibrated?"

I am just looking for a little help....very similar to your request on post number 10336, and I quote "Any ideas? Anybody got their VGA input correctly calibrated?"

Not the same request. I still have both black and white crush on VGA. I've adjusted the "hidden" sub-brightness and sub-contrast values in the Service Menu, and I've fiddled with ATI's Catalyst parameters on the Radeon graphics card. My question was whether it is even possible to calibrate VGA correctly. I neither need nor want anyone's numbers.

If you don't want to pay for calibration, then see my post #11150, which explains how to get close for the price of a DVD and 30 minutes of your time.

I recently had my light engine replaced due to the left side shadow issue and am now experiencing a new problem (probably due to the new part). What happens is the image suddenly becomes heavily tinted red. This lasts anywhere from a few moments to 30 minutes. It occurs more often when the set is just powered on but does occasionally happen well after. I have a service call scheduled for next week but was wondering if anyone could give me any insight into what might be causing this.

Not the same request. I still have both black and white crush on VGA. I've adjusted the "hidden" sub-brightness and sub-contrast values in the Service Menu, and I've fiddled with ATI's Catalyst parameters on the Radeon graphics card. My question was whether it is even possible to calibrate VGA correctly. I neither need nor want anyone's numbers.

If you don't want to pay for calibration, then see my post #11150, which explains how to get close for the price of a DVD and 30 minutes of your time.

I have done all that, but just wanted to see what the "pros" do compared to what I have learned by reading this site. Also I have read 2 different ways to adjust the actuator gain, can you tell me the correct way? Also I have moved my one setting(cant remember the name right now)from 0x5 to 0x15 to eliminate banding. Also by doubling my lamp boost from 15 to 30 I have eliminated virtually all marco blocking. If you search for a posting by collinp he shared his calibration settings.

Also I have read 2 different ways to adjust the actuator gain, can you tell me the correct way?

In the Service Menu, in the "Service" sub-menu, adjust "Actu Gain [Patt 1]" both up and down until the sawtooth texture just becomes visible inside the strokes of the cross patterns. Average the upper and lower values for the final entry. Mine is currently 108.

In the Service Menu, in the "Service" sub-menu, adjust "Actu Gain [Patt 1]" both up and down until the sawtooth texture just becomes visible inside the strokes of the cross patterns. Average the upper and lower values for the final entry. Mine is currently 108.

Thanks....I have posted a thread in the Display Calibration forum....thought you might be interested.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10184952#post10184952

Just to update everyone on my DNIE problem of not being able to turn off DNIE Demo. I went back to the service menu and found a "user default reset" but that didn't help. I went back again and found something like "ERR default reset", (sorry, I'm at work and not in front of the tv so I can't be more specific) clicked that and it took care of the problem. :)

Johnnywyoming, I'm not really sure what you're talking about? People need to be very careful if they are going to go in and play around with the SM. Take a photo and notes of what changes you make so that they can be put back in case you need service. Changing the wrong setting can void your warranty.

Hey

Do you know if there is a real differences between a Canadian model and a US model for the Samsung HLR6168 ?

I moved from Canada to the US and I have some shadows at the corners now but Samsung doesn t want to repair it cause I am in the US now and they are saying the parts are different inside...electronics maybe but the light engine should be the same no ?

I had 5 months ago the big shadow bar on that model and it was fixed by changing the light engine but cause Samsung do refurbishing now the tv have again a problem... That model is really a ****** one for the quality of the parts when I a see every people who have the same issue and for that price.

Well if someone can confirm me if it s the same parts inside that will be nice

Thx.

Jul_lef, afaik the only difference is the warranty? Is the electricity the same as the US? I never follow any of that stuff. lol. Did you get an extended warranty? That might have better coverage since some are even transferable. Can you be more specific about your new issue? Is there a chance that it is the LE again?

it seems to be the light engine

I read on an other forum that in fact you don t need to replace the entire light engine to fix most of the issue with that model but the light tunnel.
I guess it is maybe a kind a piece that don t really support the heat of the light or have a kind of sticker in it.

When I hade the vertical bar the so called technician hit my tv quite hard in the front of the speaker ( I tought I was going to have a heart attack) and the bar moved and was reduced in fact.

So it is something physical that block the light.

I have a Best extended warranty but stil 15 days left on the samsung warranty so I was hoping that they can help me.

Anyway I am going to phone them tomorrow cause I just need a new light engine to fix it and it is quite simple to replace even a monkey can do it after you see it done once ...

Jul_lef, someone here had a problem when they got Samsung and their extended overlapped. Samsung said to refer to the extended since just like you, the Samsung warranty ended, the extended kicked in but the issue was from before, just like you. I can see them voiding it since you are out of the country.

The issue is there should still be coverage from the repair. That should be covered. Its the same company, the same set, the same part but the warranty is different. I've told people here that you need to be persistent, don't take no for an answer and be pleasant. They shut down once you get bent out of shape. That has happened to several people here. I don't blame them but it didn't help them either. You just want your set fixed. If you registered you should get a three month extension on the warranty but again I don't think that matters if they go by Canada. That seems to be their way out of it. If they say its voided then I guess you're stuck until the extended kicks in. You might read up on the extended to see what if any the fine print says.

Here is a little update.

So I had to wait until today to phone Samsung Canada cause Friday was off for them.

The guy told me that the only way to have my warranty extended to the US is if I have the original paper coming with the tv from samsung called North American limited warrenty statement.

lucky me i kept everthing.

thank you Samsung US to not tell me that when I phoned them twice.

So now I can phone Samsung US again I have already took an appointment to have a diagnostic of the tv ( Light engine , Light Tunnel we will see )

But I know that TV is going to give me more hard time later...
That remenber a friend that changed his Samsung tv twice in the 3 first weeks he bought it... I was thinking he was unlucky but no Samsung product sucks...

Maybe next time I would go for a Sony instead.

But I know that TV is going to give me more hard time later...
That remenber a friend that changed his Samsung tv twice in the 3 first weeks he bought it... I was thinking he was unlucky but no Samsung product sucks...

Maybe next time I would go for a Sony instead.

I won't try to convince you that you won't have trouble with your Samsung again. Every time I read about collapsing light tunnels and LHS shadows, I know my turn will come. Maybe my 4-year warranty will be useful after all.

However, early adopters are no better off with Sony. I went through *three* of their SXRD (LCOS) sets with "green blobs" before switching to the HL-R. Best Buy never flinched. They just kept sending TVs until I was happy.

Good luck with your repairs. Let us know how it goes.

Jul_lef, that is great news! Keep in mind how people continue to have problems with their service center if they aren't in a metro area. I don't know where you moved to but make sure they don't take the set with them and that they bring the parts. I agree how this set has had some problems but most people have had them resolved quickly and easily. I think Samsung has the best customer service. I can't say that about Sony or most other brands. I agree how the reps should have better training and it amazes me how every time someone needs service its always the first time they heard of that problem. lol. At least we know better.

Where did everybody go? Did you guyz get the HL-Ts? lol.

This question may have been asked here before but I am getting too many hits trying to search for it.
Question is, now that we have the DVD players with 1080p output, is there any way to get this into the Samsung HLR6167W which only supports 1080p thru the VGA port. Would it work if you have a PC with a HD drive and a VGA connection to the TV? Would the quality be on par with a true 1080p connection thru HDMI?
Thanks.

I tried a generic VGA cable from my PC to my HLR6768W. PC was set to 1920 x 1080 x 60 Hz, which is 1080p. Quality was poor, saw lots of reflections- blurry text. Switched to HDMI and was very much watchable. I only watched internet video, which is not the same as playing a DVD. Not sure if others had better results with better cables, but this is what I did.

HDMI is a digital connection, so it's not as critical on the cable quality as VGA (to a point).

I tried a generic VGA cable from my PC to my HLR6768W. PC was set to 1920 x 1080 x 60 Hz, which is 1080p. Quality was poor, saw lots of reflections- blurry text. Switched to HDMI and was very much watchable. I only watched internet video, which is not the same as playing a DVD. Not sure if others had better results with better cables, but this is what I did.

HDMI is a digital connection, so it's not as critical on the cable quality as VGA (to a point).

I feed my HL-R6768W with VGA, but my ATI Radeon 9800 Pro with Catalyst software will only output 1920x1080p after the driver is freshly installed. As soon as I switch the primary monitor back to my LCD, and then try to switch back to the Samsung, about 5% of the image is clipped. No amount of fiddling will fix that. So... now I run it at 1360x768, which seems repeatable and reliable. There is some minor ghosting, and the top and bottom 5 segments of the DVE gray wedge are crushed (Catalyst fiddling will not fix that, either), but it's watchable.

I've been wondering if I could replace the ATI Radeon with something else that actually can drive the HL-R with HDMI or DVI. You say you switched to HDMI. What video card and software are you using?

I have not been here in 100 pages or so (lol) and am seeking opinions from those here who have kept up with the discussion.

I have the HL-R5688w and after some months, Samsung is unable to provide a replacement light engine and is offering me an exchange for the HL-T5676S or, for more money, one of the LED versions (probably smaller screen size).

On paper it sounds great, a 2007 model replacing my 2005 model. Only problem is, I have to decide now in order to get the HL-T5676 when they ship the end of May. There are no reviews out yet and I prefer someone else's opinion over the Samsung brochure, much like I did when I bought this set.

On a side note, the manual says the HL-T has HDMI version 1.3, but some CES reports says that only the LED versions have it. I suppose I should believe the manual, but does anyone know for sure?

I have an hlr 5688w, the pedestal, also. I'm just curious, are they unable to replace the light engine because it is different than the other HLR's or is there another reason? And what went wrong to require the new LE? Just trying to keep up with info for future reference. Thanks for any info.

I know nothing about the new tv's.

I have not been here in 100 pages or so (lol) and am seeking opinions from those here who have kept up with the discussion.

I have the HL-R5688w and after some months, Samsung is unable to provide a replacement light engine and is offering me an exchange for the HL-T5676S or, for more money, one of the LED versions (probably smaller screen size).

On paper it sounds great, a 2007 model replacing my 2005 model. Only problem is, I have to decide now in order to get the HL-T5676 when they ship the end of May. There are no reviews out yet and I prefer someone else's opinion over the Samsung brochure, much like I did when I bought this set.

On a side note, the manual says the HL-T has HDMI version 1.3, but some CES reports says that only the LED versions have it. I suppose I should believe the manual, but does anyone know for sure?

I am in near the same boat. SS has offered to replace my HLR set too but was offering the HLT-5656 (not even documented yet) or a refurbished HLS. The 5656 I am pretty sure is a 720 set (I have a 1080P set now) and no way am I going for a refurbished HLS which will have the same LE issues I have been having. They have not offered me any options as an upgrade yet. They also seem to have nothing in stock to give me so its kinda moot at this point. I guess I will just let everything simmer while I watch my shadow grow.

The word is that only the HLT 89's have the HDMI 1.3.

Postalguy, you should consider the new LED model. I'm not sure if they have a 56, probably? The HLT-6189s is unbelievable, so I've read. They are just shipping now. That one is the equivalent to ours. I'm not sure how other models compare but this one is the best. It looks like the 89 has the newer HDMI input and BT. The model down from that is the 87, which is the same but is missing the BT and the newest HDMI.

I'd be concerned about getting another model since that doesn't sound like a fair exchange. You should have something as good or better than what you have, especially for the hassle you're going through. Some Mags, are getting them in, one guy said Sears? Tweeter, maybe others where you can see one in person. I'd compare these models to what you are being offered. I'd take the deal though since you'd want to have the newest model available and you should only be paying the difference.

[Pay the difference? The price on these are less than you paid! Get the 6189, end of story or get a lawyer. lol.]

I have gone through almost every conceivable post on this forum and several searches on Google, but cannot seem to find the answer to my question:

What are the ADV7401(M) service menu settings used for? The main items from that group are the A_GAIN / B_GAIN / C_GAIN and A_OFFSET / B_OFFSET / C_OFFSET values.

Are the A_, B_, and C_ indicative of Red, Green, Blue? If not, then what do they relate to?

What do Gain and Offset specify here?

What would be the purpose of changing these values? Correcting color decoder errors or grayscale errors?

Can an expert help here?

Thank you

I feed my HL-R6768W with VGA, but my ATI Radeon 9800 Pro with Catalyst software will only output 1920x1080p after the driver is freshly installed. As soon as I switch the primary monitor back to my LCD, and then try to switch back to the Samsung, about 5% of the image is clipped. No amount of fiddling will fix that. So... now I run it at 1360x768, which seems repeatable and reliable. There is some minor ghosting, and the top and bottom 5 segments of the DVE gray wedge are crushed (Catalyst fiddling will not fix that, either), but it's watchable.

I've been wondering if I could replace the ATI Radeon with something else that actually can drive the HL-R with HDMI or DVI. You say you switched to HDMI. What video card and software are you using? Sounds like you have a driver overscan problem with your ATI card. Using the NVidia GE Force 7900GTX 512 MB with a monoprice.com DVI/HDMI cable. Latest drivers. When I switched to HDMI, there was a significant overscan. There was nothing I could do to fix it, in spite of what the driver settings were telling me. Turns out to be a driver problem. There are several major rants about it in the HTPC forum (search the forums for HDMI and overscan). Not a problem unique to SamSung. Everyone waiting for NVidia to fix the problem. It's been a few months since did this search- you may want to get updated info.

HDMI looked really nice compared to a budget VGA cable. No ghosting, text was clean. Just overscan that wouldn't go away. I wasn't interested in video, so I never did a DVE reference on it. Wasn't a priority at the time. Maybe I'll take a look this weekend. You've got me interested again.

You might have some fun comparing VGA to HDMI since the DVI/HDMI cable is relatively cheap ($20 range). An overscan problem might be a minor issue compared to the improvement in video quality. You can always run your application in a window. Check the HTPC forum for info on that side of the fence.

Anyone have any experience with the StudioTech U-22T component cabinets? They've gotten really good reviews, and look to fit the HLR6168 nicely...at least on line that is. Trying to find if any dealers in the SE WI area carry them to see in person.

StudioTech U-22T (http://www.studiotech.com/products/component_cabinets/ultra_u-22t/index.html)

I am curious if we can get the 1080P signal from a cable tlike this. A component to VGA cable, since our tv's only accept 1080p over the VGA input..and a blu ray player can deliver 1080p over component........ any ideas?
http://kaanza.com/Shopping/ProductDetail.asp?Productid=234544

Anyone notice the moto stb is working now or is it just temporary? lol.

I am curious if we can get the 1080P signal from a cable tlike this. A component to VGA cable, since our tv's only accept 1080p over the VGA input..and a blu ray player can deliver 1080p over component........ any ideas?
http://kaanza.com/Shopping/ProductDetail.asp?Productid=234544Short answer = Probably not. Looks like the same cable at MonoPrice: 3FT VGA to RCA Component Viideo Cable (HD-15 - 3-RCA) (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10235&cs_id=1023503&p_id=2409&seq=1&format=2&style=)

Here's what Monoprice had to say about this cable:

3FT VGA to 3 RCA component video cable (HD15 - 3-RCA)

This cable is primarily used for connecting video projectors with Component-in capability through it's VGA port. It can only function with a VGA port that is either able to recieve or transmit Component signals (Y, Pr, Pb).

IT WILL NOT ALLOW YOU TO CONNECT YOUR COMPONENT VIDEO SOURCES TO A REGULAR COMPUTER MONITOR OR HDTV unless you monitor specifically has this capability. Most do not. (Please check the documentation for your computer monitor)

THIS CABLE WILL NOT ALLOW YOU TO CONNECT YOUR COMPUTER'S VGA PORT TO THE COMPONENET INPUT ON YOUR HDTV unless your video card supports component out function through it's VGA port (please confirm with your video cards documentation before purchasing)

This cable will not convert RGBHV into Y, Pr, Pb.
This cable will not convert Y, Pr, Pb to RGBHV
This cable will not support Y, Cr, Cb.

For more information regarding Component video signals and VGA video signals, please refer to the "knowledge base" tab.

Connectors:
VGA(SVGA/HD15) Male
(3) RCA Male( Red, Green, Blue)

Features:
RG-59/U Cable
75 Ohm Coaxial Cables
24K Gold plated Connector

Hi all.Glad to see this forum still going.Must have sold alot of the HLR models.My 88 had a triangle error come on the display and TV turned off.Looked up the symbol and it was for the bulb replacement.Is this correct? I turned the TV back on is working fine.Checked the hours on bulb and its 9,264.Where is the best place to get bulb,from samsung? thanks

Matt,

If you look in the owners manual it says a triangle with a little bulb under it indicates that the bulb or other component may be defective, if it's got a little upside down keyhole thing under it, it says venting problem and the tv would shut down (sounds like your situation), then there's one with a little fan under it and it says the fan is not working correctly, and last, just a plain triangle with nothing under it, the tvs rear cover is not properly shut.

So, it depends on the other items present with the triangle as to the exact problem.

If it is the bulb, a while back someone else with one of these pedestal models had a problem getting the right bulb and housing from www.samsungparts.com because they sent him one for a regular HLR whereas ours require a triangular housing rather than the box like one for normal HLRs. At that time he said to order model BP96-01415A for the ped.

If you go to the site, on the right side is a lamp/bulb button and if you push it and enter your model, etc., it should take you to the right page for your tv's parts.

.

You are definitely due for a replacement. Here's the info direct from SamSung (with editing, from 2004): http://erms.samsungusa.com/customer/sea/jsp/faqs/faqs_view.jsp?PG_ID=-1&AT_ID=6152&PROD_SUB_ID=0&PROD_ID=-1
The 100-watt Ultra-High Pressure Lamp Samsung uses in its DLP sets has, on average, a life of between 5,000 - 8,000 hours...

The aging characteristic of the lamp is relatively flat, meaning the light output is constant through its life, and then drops off dramatically only in the final hours. An on-screen message appears when you turn on your TV set to warn you that the lamp should be replaced. I must be on the light side- 2,558 hours after 1-1/2 years. HLR-6768W.

Thanks mes444 & GeeKGirl. I didnt get to see the icon under the triangle.Before I could grab my other 2 eyes the TV shut off.Guess I will order a bulb sit back and wait.It has and is been a very great TV for me.At least this ordeal brought me back to the fantastic people you all are. Thanks. BTW the bulb # is BP96-01415A for any 88 owners.

Hi all.Glad to see this forum still going.Must have sold alot of the HLR models.My 88 had a triangle error come on the display and TV turned off.Looked up the symbol and it was for the bulb replacement.Is this correct? I turned the TV back on is working fine.Checked the hours on bulb and its 9,264.Where is the best place to get bulb,from samsung? thanks

Yes, I had the same symtom. The service guy promptly showed up but instead of changing the lamp, he changed out the entire light engine. THAT'S when the problems started. Samsung only has refurbished light engines, and they did a piss-poor job of refurbishing them. The picture, while adequate, is nowhere near as great as before. Upon investigating, when I looked behind the lamp, I could see fingerprint smudges all over the color wheel. There is also now stray white light on the screen in the form of a "V" that shows up during dark scenes.

After some months of being unable/unwilling to provide another light engine, Samsung is now offering to replace the TV with a new 2007 HL-T5676S. However, Eliab, a well respected ISF calibrator here, is telling me NOT to get the HL-T model.

"Their out of the box picture is atrocious and cannot be calibrated because they're unstable. As if that wasn't bad enough, the service menu has been dumbed down. I can't stress enough how you should push to have them give you an HL-Sxx87 or 88 model."

So I don't know what to do. The HL-S is no longer available because it's a 2006 model. I really miss my old HL-R5688W's picture. *sigh*

Postalguy, I'm surprised at Eliab's take and wonder if he still feels that way and if he's still around here? I'm not familiar with that model that you mentioned. I've been following the 87 and 89s', which are LED models. While the SM has been dumed lol down the UM has been seriously upgraded. How does the one Samsung is suggesting compare to yours and the 87/89? That would be interesting to see. I think you should look into the 89 and go from there.

I'm pretty sure Eliab's comments were in regard to the HL-TXX87/89 LED models which have the "stability" problem. The HL-TXX76 model is lamp based. It was confirmed on the 2007 Samsung 1080p LED thread yesterday that the lamp based models do not have the "stability" issue. I did not think that the XX76's were shipping yet.

So I registered my HL-R6768W in Feb 06. Samsung tossed in another 3 months of warranty coverage automatically. Today's letter indicates that will run out almost another month past the extension. Thank you, Samsung.

The letter offers their factory-authorized service plan for another three years at the "GREAT VALUE" of $779.97 minus their Savings Discount of $78.00 for "YOUR COST" of $701.97.

Of course, I paid $300 to TapeWorksTexas for Mack's Warranty Combo (three years of extended HDTV warranty, two years of extended bulb warranty - not to exceed two bulbs).

So far, so good. Your mileage has probably varied. Has anybody tried to claim extended set or bulb coverage from Samsung or Mack? If so, please share your results.

What has happened in typical cases... such as collapsed light tunnels and worn color wheel bearings? Are they still fixing these problems... or are they trying to pawn off HL-T sets (supposedly "unstable" according to Eliab)?

I can't find the post regarding Eliab and the HL-Ts but I think he is only referring to the SM stability since right now it is not holding the changes, making it difficult to calibrate, since he is a professional calibrator. The flip side is that the UM on the new models has a lot of the SM settings in the HL-Rs.

Is it possible to buy an extended warranty for my HL-R5078W, even if my Samsung warranty has expired? I'm still covered by my credit card extension for 10 more months. I had a new LE put in in January, and my PQ is incredible. I'm just slightly concerned about the future.

Anyone know if my HLR-5668W VGA's port assumes it is going to get a PC input so it uses the PC black-level standard of 0 IRE?

With the latest spring 07 Xbox 360 update they give you option to change the IRE level. It used to be locked on the television standard of 7.5 IRE, but now gives you the option of 0 IRE. Supposedly the colors using VGA cable on the 360 looked washed out because it could only put out 7.5 IRE. The blacks would look grey, but has now been fixed.

Before buying a VGA cable for my 360, I would like to know. I could then get 1080p from my 360 instead of component.

HDTVboston, I tried to do what you are trying with an extended warranty and couldn't find any available after the one year warranty expires. The outrageous Samsung extended warranty was not even available after their 15mos runs out. At least that's what I recall but it's too expensive anyway.

Someone posted back a while that if your extended credit card warranty was with VISA they will sell you an extention after the 1 yr. extra. Mine was with AMEX and they will not go beyond the one year extension at all.

Other warranty companies wouldn't give me one unless I still had some manufacturer warranty left.

So I'm like you, I have about 5 mos. left on a credit card extended warranty and I will then hope for good TV karma going forward.

If you have better luck, please post back.

Anyone know if my HLR-5668W VGA's port assumes it is going to get a PC input so it uses the PC black-level standard of 0 IRE? Yes, it is expecting a black-level setting of 0IRE. In theory, it should not make a difference if you could do a full calibration on the VGA port. But, the controls available on the display (SM & UM) for calibration of the VGA port are limited.

The outrageous Samsung extended warranty was not even available after their 15mos runs out. At least that's what I recall but it's too expensive anyway.I'm beginning to look at the Samsung extended warranties in a different light. Based on posts in the HL-T forum, Samsung seems to be replacing HL-R's and HL-S's with HL-T's if the cost of repair is more than $200. In one case, I believe they replaced an HL-Rxx88 with an HL-T because they could not get a bulb in a reasonable time. Considering how fast the technologies and the displays are becoming "obsolete" and/or failing, having an extended Samsung warranty for $700 over a 5-year (3-year??) period might not be so bad. No guarantee they'll keep the $200 replacement "policy" or that the replacement will be better. Just a thought... FWIW.

donb, I see what you are saying, but who knows if they will continue the replacement policy. They change "policies" daily if you look at the side shadow thread. I feel like $700 a year, it's not for multiple years if I recall correctly, just ONE year, is like blackmail and I will not buy into their sleezy ways.

These collapsing light tunnels should be under a recall, anything less is a total rip off. Mine has been fine, so it's not me personally, just the idea of each complaint being handled differently is so unprofessional.

So giving them more money for poor customer service is wrong on all levels.

OK, I feel better now...:)

Hdtvbostonma, I'm surprised about not finding an extended. Afaik the only catch is that the set is in working order and that you can't file a claim for at least thirty days. Maybe google extendeds or something, I don't know who you looked into? I would go back to the store you bought it from and see what they say and who they offer.

I'm not so sure I'd bet on Samsung upgrading what is now an old set. It seems the few people who got an upgrade offer were new customers who haven't had the set for very long and had zero service being outside a metro area and what not.

One last point is how the prices on the new sets have dropped, I'd almost save the money on an extended and put it towards a new set at this point, something I wouldn't have said earlier. The parts are easy to replace if needed and you could fix the shadow issue yourself, if you have to.

Does anyone know of a way to correct for trapezoid (keystone) screen distortion when using the VGA input?

Hey guys I have a 6768 and compared to my 5087, the picture seems much darker. I had a light engine replaced so its a newer lamp. Is it because the TV is older and the newer one has a better color wheel or lamp? I currently have DNIe off with Contrast at 100 and brightness at 54. Is this normal?

OK, I feel better now...:)Me too... :D

borhan - I also have a 6768 (HL-R6768W) 1-1/2 years old, 2,500 hours on lamp. Contrast at 80, brightness at 50. Sounds close enough. Are you comparing with DVE (Digital Video Essentials) and under the same room lighting conditions? You'd be surprised how different the picture looks with different lighting.

I have a 5668w and currently have a complaint filed with consumer affairs since the set will not accept a 1080p signal externally (i.e. playstation 3 set to 1080p resolution). The maximum, as you all know, that it will accept is 1080i. Samsung stands by their claim that the set's maximum input resolution is 1080i, but nowhere on their webpage for this model does it make clear that through an HDMI cable 1920x1080i is the maximum input value. i purchased this before the PS3 came out in anticipation of using it to the fullest extent. i dont know if this has been discussed in prior posts, but i dont want to read through 374 pages to find out. Samsung still cannot answer me this "pressing the info button on the remote control, how can (Resolution: 1920x1080p) be displayed?". my position is that if the set cannot accept a 1920x1080p signal, it cannot be advertised as such.


Anyone out there with a similar complaint?

BrianNpooler, you are right and you have a point and this had been discussed towards the beginning of the thread. It is misleading in the sense that they are referring to the VGA input. That is anything that works via VGA is 1080p. I know I bought the set thinking all inputs were 1080p and I know I'm not the only one here. The thread has died down so I might be the only one here these days. lol. I'd say good luck with your effort. I think it is a matter of doing your own research before making a purchasing decision. I don't think the HDMI specs ever said 1080p and the set scales all inputs to 1080p. It is misleading but I don't think illegal or anything.

Only this year sets are HDMI 1.3 or whatever. Most people still don't have HDTV and of those that do most are not 1080i never mind 1080p. I agree more and more new sets are 1080p now but that wasn't the case when these were out or last year's models even, I mean overall not just samsung's. The PS3 and HD/BD DVD players and recorders will output 1080i so I guess its not like we're missing something. I don't think its a huge deal since the set converts it to 1080p, but I know what you mean.

I have a 5668w and currently have a complaint filed with consumer affairs since the set will not accept a 1080p signal externally (i.e. playstation 3 set to 1080p resolution). The maximum, as you all know, that it will accept is 1080i. Samsung stands by their claim that the set's maximum input resolution is 1080i, but nowhere on their webpage for this model does it make clear that through an HDMI cable 1920x1080i is the maximum input value. i purchased this before the PS3 came out in anticipation of using it to the fullest extent. i dont know if this has been discussed in prior posts, but i dont want to read through 374 pages to find out. Samsung still cannot answer me this "pressing the info button on the remote control, how can (Resolution: 1920x1080p) be displayed?". my position is that if the set cannot accept a 1920x1080p signal, it cannot be advertised as such.


Anyone out there with a similar complaint?

I agree with you and also submitted a complaint with Samsung but got nowhere, so I started commenting in this thread several months ago in hopes that enough complaints would pressure Samsung to consider a firmware upgrade to the HDMI inputs(assuming this is possible within their hardware configuration). Since the set itself is capable of 1080P its you just can't get it to the set from any input except VGA, with the set having 1080P platered all over the front bezel I beleive it was a fraudulent advertising campaign and all of us who took the bait got stuck with a 1080i set that we paid more for since it was suppose to be and was advertised as 1080P at the time no one new any different since a 1080P source was not easy to get back then its just this year that BluRay, HDdvd and PS3 are common place and have brought this issue to the forefront. If you have any luck with the consumer complaint department please reply with any info with specifics to help those interested in pursuing this. I am not holding my breath but I am holding my money from ever buying a Samsung product again because at this point I can not trust them to give me what is being advertised.

borhan - I also have a 6768 (HL-R6768W) 1-1/2 years old, 2,500 hours on lamp. Contrast at 80, brightness at 50. Sounds close enough. Are you comparing with DVE (Digital Video Essentials) and under the same room lighting conditions? You'd be surprised how different the picture looks with different lighting.

Yeah I hear what your saying as the 6768 is downstairs in a brighter room but you can still tell a difference at night between the two sets.

Markrfrench, I hear ya but I don't think boycotting Samsung is necessarily a good idea either. It depends on what you're considering getting. I do think they have the best customer service and I think these days that is an important factor when making a purchasing decision. They aren't the first and won't be the last company consumers have some sort of issue with. Like I said, the info was there in the specs so its not like there was any deception or fraud, which would be a basis for legal action or settlement. They didn't say that their future models would be less expensive and last longer with LEDs either. lol.

Markrfrench, I hear ya but I don't think boycotting Samsung is necessarily a good idea either. It depends on what you're considering getting. I do think they have the best customer service and I think these days that is an important factor when making a purchasing decision. They aren't the first and won't be the last company consumers have some sort of issue with. Like I said, the info was there in the specs so its not like there was any deception or fraud, which would be a basis for legal action or settlement. They didn't say that their future models would be less expensive and last longer with LEDs either. lol.


Where exactly does it say in the specs that the HDMI inputs are limited to 1080i?
http://www.samsung.com/Products/TV/DLPTV/HLR5668WXXAA.asp
http://www.samsung.com/Products/TV/DLPTV/HLR5668WXXAA.asp (Spec page)
http://www.samsung.com/Products/TV/DLPTV/HLR5668WXXAA.asp?page=Specifications
Its a game of semantics IMO. I do consider their specs to be deceptive. they did, if you notice, bother to state that the component video input range is from 480i to 1080i. Had they said that for the HDMI input, i never would have bought the set. Toshiba and Sony seem to have gotten that message and if you notice on their websites, the limitations of each set is clearly stated.

Anyone know if my HLR-5668W VGA's port assumes it is going to get a PC input so it uses the PC black-level standard of 0 IRE?

With the latest spring 07 Xbox 360 update they give you option to change the IRE level. It used to be locked on the television standard of 7.5 IRE, but now gives you the option of 0 IRE. Supposedly the colors using VGA cable on the 360 looked washed out because it could only put out 7.5 IRE. The blacks would look grey, but has now been fixed.

Before buying a VGA cable for my 360, I would like to know. I could then get 1080p from my 360 instead of component.

I'm pretty sure it's 0 IRE. I bought a VGA cable for my 360, and I'll say things looked crisper than component... BUT, the colors were wonky, and even with the new options in the 360 to alter black levels.

That may or may not be the 360/Samsung combo's fault, though, because I had a PC hooked up to it previously, and the colors were off then, too.

Specifically, any shade of black has a greenish tint. It's quite distracting... everything looks like it's in the "Matrix" universe!

I couldn't find a way to fix this with the available settings in the Samsung's menu. As it is under warranty, I might get a service tech to come out and calibrate for me.

I just picked up the 360 HD-DVD add-on, and although it looks great over component, I'd love to be able to get the full 1080p over vga.

If anyone else has advice for this, let me knwo...

BrianNpooler, I'm not defending Samsung, I looked quickly at your links. The second link I couldn't get to work? The set is a 1080p set. It takes a 1080p VGA input since VGA is always p. I think people like you and me put two and two together and thought we got four, when it was three. lol.

I don't think I remember seeing it mention how HDMI is 1080p, which it would have to. You have to think back when it first started shipping. No one was 1080p, there were a few small LCDs that were out. I don't think its a huge deal not having it, that's not to say I'd take a 1080i over a 1080p if everything was the same. It looks like not having HDMI 1.3 could be a bigger deal than 1080p.

... As it is under warranty, I might get a service tech to come out and calibrate for me. Does Samsung cover "calibrations" under their warranty? I don't think so...

Timfitz99, have you tried a different VGA cable? Sometimes the issues, if any are with the cable. It looks like you have a cable for the PC and a different one for the 360? You should be able to make color adjustments on the PC, I don't know if that's possible with the 360? I don't think you can make those adjustments on the set since it assumes you have a PC connected.

If there is still a color issue with the VGA after more testing then a service call would test the VGA input, not calibrate the set. I don't see how the problem would be with the set unless its the input.

Hi All,
I have been following this thread since its conception.
My HL-R5078W has been flawless for over 20 months.
I just checked my bulb life and it showed 4,410 hours.
Wow! that averages out to 220 hr a month and 7.35hrs daily.
My question is what is the average life expectance of the bulbs? I have 3 bulb replacement on my warrantee so I want to use it.

Great thread lets keep it going until the HD 2090z comes out . :)

Iggy

My question is what is the average life expectance of the bulbs? I have 3 bulb replacement on my warrantee so I want to use it.5,000 - 8,000 hours in this recent post: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10475334&&#post10475334

IggyAZ, I forget how long Samsung expects the lamp to last? Very few people here had it fail early. The LEDs are supposed to warn you when lamp is on its way out. Three lamps sounds like a lot since most extendeds are either none or one. I hope that plan was a good deal! I think you have a ways to go on that lamp. The issue with the lamps is how they dim towards the end of their life.

The new LEDs have a sensor to increase brightness as they age, keeping the picture the same. The new sets are tempting.

For those with a 6768, what do you have your sub contrast, sub brightness, and I think contrast set on? Ive been messing around with them and it made the picture a bit brighter but the whites are very white and do not look natural. Also Would changing the lamp boost setting higher affect the lamp life and brightness of the picture? Thanks!

While in the service menu , near the bottom, I believe its under options , look for EER Reset , press that , the TV will shut off , wait two minutes , turn it back on , all the Subrightness levels etc will be reset back to thier original factory values. This is the best way to go back to square one. Note those values like subrightness automatically change depending upon the signal you feed it , ie they are different for a 1080I input as opposed to a 480I input. Good Luck !

Anyone seen this before? I'm trying to think back and don't remember hearing about this. All of a sudden, twice in one day, the picture goes black and the sound stayed on, for a few seconds. The left and right green LEDs blink with the red LED on the bottom. The three LEDs look like the face I made when it happened, something like this :| lol.

I pressed Menu and Info on the remote and nothing happened. I hit Power once and the set turned On. Anyone know what's going on? I imagine it could be difficult for a tech. to diagnose since it only happened twice. The service center I use is great. I imagine they'd have a better idea if you guyz had more info on it.

I have an HL-R6768 and the le was replaced several months ago for the shadow issue. I have a media PC connected to the vga input and now when I try to set it for 1080p I can only get 720p res to fill the screen. At 1080 setting I get a distorted screen geometry. Is it possible that the replacement LE is a 720 engine?

Also, when you press info on the remote is the resolution displayed the actual input resolution or the upconverted resolution in the set?

I guess I am a little confused here. Any thoughts on this?

thanks,
Hal.

I believe the displayed resolution is the one the tv is receiving, try some sd stations and see if it shows 480?

Halco, I just tested the set. The resolution info is input dependent. SD channels show 1080i since I'm on HDMI. Are you saying that the PC was definitely outputting 1080p before? I don't see how getting a 720p LE is possible or makes any sense? Where does it show you are getting 720p, on the PC or the set? Is everything the same on the PC from the VGA cable to the video card and so on, has anything changed from the last time you connected the PC?

Ok. My set up is an HR20 HDDVR hdmi via Yamaha RX-V2700.
The PC is VGA. I used to be able to run the video card at 1920x1080p It just wont fill up the screen. vertical resolution is normal but horz is not as wide as it use to be. when I set it to 1920x720 I get a nice full screen. I did an update from Nvidia and that may be my problem.

So what you are saying is info will not show what the source resolution is? Mine says 1080i. However, when run my HD DVR at other than "native" info shows 480 on sd and 720 on hd. when I set it to native info shows 1080. I need to really study this as it still doesn't' make sense.

Halco, don't confuse me. lol. If the STB is set to 1080i and you use HDMI then I think all of your channels will show 1080i, mine does? Check with the advanced display settings in XP and see if you if you can get it to 1080? It could be the driver but I think it could be something else. Did you go over the Wide PC and those settings on the Sammy? I'd run though those while checking the PC.

It has been awhile since I visited this forum, my Samsung HL-R5688W had been going strong up to a point about a month ago, nothing like what I have read about in here but of all things the analog board went wacky and I lost one component video and sound, and some of the composites. Of course with the extended warranty it was an in house service call. It was interesting to see them pull out the chassis and disassemble the box to get to the analog motherboard, no soldering anymore they just replace components, it did fix the problem and all is well, to bad the bulb had low hours or they would have replaced that too. :cool:

Hi guys. I have not been here in quite a while so this is an update on the outcome of my HL-R5688W.

Long story short, the Lamp light kept coming on and instead of just replacing the lamp, Samsung replaced the whole light engine with a refurbished unit that caused even more problems with the picture quality.

So after some months of trying to get that corrected, Samsung said they no longer had parts for it and gave me a new tv, the HL-T5676S, (I tried to get an upgrade to one of the LED sets, but they said no).

Out of the box picture was acceptable, unlike previous experiences, and the set has a truer red than all my other tvs were able to produce, (the others were more pink than red). They even added a working tint control to the menu that was grayed out on the HL-R when using an HDMI input. They've added a 'Detailed Settings' section to the menu that includes Black Adjust, Gamma, and White Balance. Of course, putting to use the knowledge gained here I made it look even better and it's pretty close to the picture quality I had with my HL-R before they messed it up.

My two biggest complaints would be:
1) What a crappy remote! Looks and feels like a cereal-box toy, not that I usually use their remotes anyways. I prefer my Sony learning remote.
2) Cannot see it until you pull up the Directv guide, but the horizontal lines of the guide slowly dip down in the middle and back up on the edges, sort of a screen-wide smile. Unable to see it during normal viewing, but just knowing it's there.......:(

And not so much a complaint as I rarely used it, but they took out the built-in TV Guide, which only works with cable tv anyway, (I have basic cable which is free with my Broadband cable, but I hardly every use it).

I had to shell out $100 for a tv stand as I had the pedestal version of the HL-R (and loved it) but at least everything is together in one cabinet now. So there you have it. Not a totally bad experience, but a hassle none the less.

St8kout, thanks for the update. It has been quiet over here but recently picked up. lol. My father grabbed the HLT 6189S. I just saw it at Tweeter for the first time today. I was surprised about the source they had. I think it was Tweeter's on a 720 VTR, which normally isn't bad. The content they had on it today was lousy, it wasn't something that jumped out and said HD like I've seen in the past. A salesman put in a BD movie and even that movie, something Five with Bruce Willis, anyone? lol. wasn't a good example of HD either. I was disappointed that I didn't see a huge difference between that set and mine, a HL-R5678W. I also didn't notice the five inch difference in size, which I thought I might a little. I guess five inches isn't a big deal. lol.

Anyone seen this before? I'm trying to think back and don't remember hearing about this. All of a sudden, twice in one day, the picture goes black and the sound stayed on, for a few seconds. The left and right green LEDs blink with the red LED on the bottom. The three LEDs look like the face I made when it happened, something like this :| lol.

I pressed Menu and Info on the remote and nothing happened. I hit Power once and the set turned On. Anyone know what's going on? I imagine it could be difficult for a tech. to diagnose since it only happened twice. The service center I use is great. I imagine they'd have a better idea if you guyz had more info on it.

I just started having the same problem on my HLR5078W... This is in addition to the light tunnel issue that I was already living with (about .75" dark bar on the left side of the screen...) Anyone have any ideas on this one? The set shuts off and the left and right green LEDs and red LED all blink... When I hit the power switch the set turns back on and all is good but then seemingly at random the same thing happens again. This probably happened 4-5 times last night sometimes quickly and sometimes with as much as 30 minutes between occurences... Any ideas?

I just started having the same problem on my HLR5078W... This is in addition to the light tunnel issue that I was already living with (about .75" dark bar on the left side of the screen...) Anyone have any ideas on this one? The set shuts off and the left and right green LEDs and red LED all blink... When I hit the power switch the set turns back on and all is good but then seemingly at random the same thing happens again. This probably happened 4-5 times last night sometimes quickly and sometimes with as much as 30 minutes between occurences... Any ideas?

Don't mean to be a downer, but it sounds like trouble... check your warranty.

Don't mean to be a downer, but it sounds like trouble... check your warranty.

:) heh. I checked my warranty when my light tunnel started to collapse and I am well out of it... Pressuring samsung to address that got me offered 50% off the price of the replacement part but looking at $300+ in labor from their service folks. No thanks. This latest problem has been very intermittent and now it appears I'm not the only one experiencing it. There does appear to be a pattern to the LED flashing, I was hoping someone knew what the LED flash codes indicated. Looks like my HLR5078W is getting closer and closer to the dumpster... I'd say that makes me really sad but I'd be lying... Part of me has been looking for an excuse to upgrade as the game lag on this model is horrible.

Sanctified, all of the components are easy to replace. The LE just slides right out. If you're handy around the house, fix computers or cars this should be really easy. I know what you mean about upgrading but to get a discount on the LE and now this is still much cheaper than a $2k+ upgrade. I'm usually the first person to tell people to get a new car rather than keep fixing an old one. I don't think that's the case with you. Once this stuff is fixed you should be all set. You could always fix it and sell it or something. That's just it though, I'm thinking that we lost about $2k selling these used and then to upgrade for $2k is about a $4k difference. Maybe paying $1k+ out of pocket is worth the upgrade?

I'm thinking its a sort of lamp or power issue with the blinking LEDs? That only happened to me three times I think.

Hello All,

I have a HL-R5678W. The tv is great and I mostly play Xbox 360 games on it. Just recently, a translucent blue line, about an inch wide, is running down the left side of my picture. The set is only a year old and I was wondering if there was something I could do to fix that. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

You have the Samsung Side Shadow. Go here for info:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=758625

Some good news for side shadow watchers, this post has move to page FOUR!!!, finally falling off the front page. Maybe it's finally slowing down. Just a thought.

WooGuy, you need a new LE. If you registered the set online with Samsung you get three extra months of their warranty, otherwise you need to call the company you have the extended with, I hope you have an extended warranty.

I realize this is somewhat off topic but, fun things to do with your Samsung QAM tuner:)

http://www.slate.com/id/2167389/

Sanctified, all of the components are easy to replace. The LE just slides right out. If you're handy around the house, fix computers or cars this should be really easy. I know what you mean about upgrading but to get a discount on the LE and now this is still much cheaper than a $2k+ upgrade. I'm usually the first person to tell people to get a new car rather than keep fixing an old one. I don't think that's the case with you. Once this stuff is fixed you should be all set. You could always fix it and sell it or something. That's just it though, I'm thinking that we lost about $2k selling these used and then to upgrade for $2k is about a $4k difference. Maybe paying $1k+ out of pocket is worth the upgrade?

I'm thinking its a sort of lamp or power issue with the blinking LEDs? That only happened to me three times I think.

I agree... Being handy is not a problem, I build my own computers, replaced the entire electrical system in a 1978 VW rabbit (not recently though!) and in general tackle that type of stuff with aplomb, heck I just replaced the dishwasher in the kitchen myself much to my wifes chagrin ;) It hasn't exploded yet so I guess it's fine :p In my case I think I'm really just looking for an excuse to get a set that takes a 1080p input and has 1:1 pixel mapping as well as reduced lag when gaming on my older systems... What I will most likely do (as long as no one tells my wife...) is use this problem to justify a new tv. I will then spring for the parts to repair the 5078W and give it to my brother who is HD-less at this point and can't afford to buy one on his own as he is in the process buying his first house...

Sanctified, two things, I'm glad you didn't just fix your '78 rabbit, which was an underrated car, esp. the ragtop and I wish I had a brother like you! lol.

Has anyone done an overscan calibration on the HDMI input? I recorded the HDNet test pattern on my STB which is connected via HDMI to my Samsung HL-R6768W. It's got some overscan, but there are a LOT of warnings about never ever touching the HDMI calibration or you will need to send it back to the factory for a reset. No kidding. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=777497 (Display Calibration form)

I don't want to enter the service menu if there's even a remote chance of screwing up my display permanently. I have no problem for functions like DNi engine, but this is a different story. The warnings about going into service menu without proper "training" should be heeded in this case.

GeekGirl, I think if you have an issue with HDMI its probably with the provider and not the set. I'd say the source but I think its with cable or satellite. I wouldn't mess with the set. Wouldn't you have noticed it before if it was the set? I don't know about the HDMI warnings, just warnings in general. I seem to remember people adjusting the horz./vert. test pattern in the SM, not sure if that is for each input or the set overall?

bcvp - I forgot to mention that I'm on Verizon FiOS, not satellite. I agree that the unanswered question is whether the overscan is due to the STB or the set. My PC can't be used as an HDMI source because the NVidia graphcs card drivers (DVI/HDMI cable) also have an uncorrectable overscan problem, as discussed in several HTPC forum threads.

The AVS Display Calibration forum has a thread for the HDNet test patterns: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=800757, so there's some support for the source material.

Each input has its own calibration settings. My gut feeling is to leave well enough alone, as you suggest.

WooGuy, you need a new LE. If you registered the set online with Samsung you get three extra months of their warranty, otherwise you need to call the company you have the extended with, I hope you have an extended warranty.

I got the extended warranty from Vanns, but Samsung extended my warranty for 90 days (I've had the set for 1 year and 20 days). Their sending a tech out next Wednesday. Thanks for the info though.

Just an update on my issue where my HLR-5078W is/was turning itself off... On 6/6 after initially staying on for 30 minutes it would then only stay on for only 2-3 minutes at a time. On 6/7 (yesterday) my wife had it on for 5 hours or so with no issues... So now I'm really baffled. If this was a problem with the electronics on the light engine I wouldn't expect the problem to go away... I'm wondering if I'm having a voltage drop or spike (even though the set is behind a power conditioner...) or if something coming in from the cable box is possibly causing the problem. One other odd occurrence on 6/6 on one of the power off incidents both my cable box and receiver also power cycled... I pulled out my voltmeter last night to check my grounds and the voltages in the outlets in use but didn't get to it yet. Thoughts anyone?

This is a good time to plug your Sammy into a UPS. It's good procedure as it will keep your lamp's fan powered in the event of a sudden loss of power. Saves on the lamp life. I'm using an APC Back-UPS ES 650. Around $50 from BB and elsewhere.

You'll never see anything on a voltmeter. The UPS will cut-in with enough time to keep your display alive and let you know when it's on battery (it beeps). Power down your display as soon as you hear it beeping. Allow about 2 minutes or so for the fan to finish cooling the lamp. Then, reset the UPS. Consider it cheap insurance. If the problem happens a lot, you need to find out why. Grounding is just one aspect (but very important).

Sanctified, I don't know but I'm betting on a lamp issue? I'm away for a few daze right now but it seemed alright before I left. It could be the power supply but would that or the LE send a signal to the LEDs or would they just fail? Afaik the LEDs on these models are lamp related?

I had the light engine replaced in my HL-R5668 about 6 weeks ago to fix the shadow problem. Now over the last week I've noticed green/purple tinting within shadows in a scene. It is independent of the signal source (Directv or HD-DVD). It makes scenes in dark rooms, etc. almost unwatchable. The 5 o'clock shadow on men's faces even takes on this green/purple tint. I've played around with the picture settings but cannot make it go away. Do I have another problem that needs to be repaired, or is this something that can be calibrated out?

I had the light engine replaced in my HL-R5668 about 6 weeks ago to fix the shadow problem. Now over the last week I've noticed green/purple tinting within shadows in a scene. It is independent of the signal source (Directv or HD-DVD). It makes scenes in dark rooms, etc. almost unwatchable. The 5 o'clock shadow on men's faces even takes on this green/purple tint. I've played around with the picture settings but cannot make it go away. Do I have another problem that needs to be repaired, or is this something that can be calibrated out?

That's the same problem I had when my LE was replaced. Make the installer come back out and calibrate. They CAN fix it in the service menu. Make sure they calibrate it for each input, I think they were different.

On the bright side, post-calibration mine looks better than it did with the old LE : )

I had the light engine replaced in my HL-R5668 about 6 weeks ago to fix the shadow problem. Now over the last week I've noticed green/purple tinting within shadows in a scene. It is independent of the signal source (Directv or HD-DVD). It makes scenes in dark rooms, etc. almost unwatchable. The 5 o'clock shadow on men's faces even takes on this green/purple tint. I've played around with the picture settings but cannot make it go away. Do I have another problem that needs to be repaired, or is this something that can be calibrated out? That's the same problem I had when my LE was replaced. Make the installer come back out and calibrate. They CAN fix it in the service menu. Make sure they calibrate it for each input, I think they were different.

On the bright side, post-calibration mine looks better than it did with the old LE : )First, I'm surprised it took six weeks to show. Do not know what that is all about.

Second, a comment on semantics... You might not want to tell/ask the tech to come back out to "calibrate" your set. Service techs do not do "calibrations." However, there are Samsung specified "service adjustments" that are to made when the LE is replaced. Not all techs know about these adjustments.

With the new LE there are a couple of things you want to check that the tech has done/does do in the service menu (SM): 1. DMD -> Digital transfer. and 2. Check/readjust the Index Delay (SM).

There are other things in the SM that pro calibrators and other owners have indicated will elilminate or reduce the problem: 1. Set Gamma to 0. and 2. Turn off Dynamic Black. After turning off Dynamic Black, maximize your contrast range (just below discoloration or white crush) and manually use the Dynamic Black attenuation to set (lower) the overall brightness of the display to a reasonable level.

Finally, use one of the calibration DVDs to accurately set brightness and contrast. (A pro calibrator also mentioned that too high of a contrast setting exacerbated the problem.)

I had this problem when I first got my HL-R and was told that I would just have to live with some degree of the problem. One or some combination of all of the above got rid of the issue. I just can not remember which.

I had the light engine replaced in my HL-R5668 about 6 weeks ago to fix the shadow problem. Now over the last week I've noticed green/purple tinting within shadows in a scene. It is independent of the signal source (Directv or HD-DVD). It makes scenes in dark rooms, etc. almost unwatchable. The 5 o'clock shadow on men's faces even takes on this green/purple tint. I've played around with the picture settings but cannot make it go away. Do I have another problem that needs to be repaired, or is this something that can be calibrated out?

All the suggestions other folks gave are good; my note is just to try setting the gamma to 0 first, since it's easy to do (if you're ok going into the service menu), and as I recall it made the biggest difference with the greenish shadows when I first got my 6168. If that doesn't help enough, then you can try the other more complex calibration steps.

nj

First, I'm surprised it took six weeks to show. Do not know what that is all about.

Second, a comment on semantics... You might not want to tell/ask the tech to come back out to "calibrate" your set. Service techs do not do "calibrations." However, there are Samsung specified "service adjustments" that are to made when the LE is replaced. Not all techs know about these adjustments.

With the new LE there are a couple of things you want to check that the tech has done/does do in the service menu (SM): 1. DMD -> Digital transfer. and 2. Check/readjust the Index Delay (SM).

There are other things in the SM that pro calibrators and other owners have indicated will elilminate or reduce the problem: 1. Set Gamma to 0. and 2. Turn off Dynamic Black. After turning off Dynamic Black, maximize your contrast range (just below discoloration or white crush) and manually use the Dynamic Black attenuation to set (lower) the overall brightness of the display to a reasonable level.

Finally, use one of the calibration DVDs to accurately set brightness and contrast. (A pro calibrator also mentioned that too high of a contrast setting exacerbated the problem.)

I had this problem when I first got my HL-R and was told that I would just have to live with some degree of the problem. One or some combination of all of the above got rid of the issue. I just can not remember which.

It didn't take 6 weeks for this to surface, but it really started to jump out at me a couple of weeks ago. It is very dependent on what is being watched. I've never noticed it in well lit outdoor scenes, mainly in scenes that take place in darkened rooms, etc. The cave scenes in "Letters From Iwo Jima" were really bad, and then last night I was trying to watch "Midnight Express" on HDNet and that became the last straw.

I don't have a problem trying to mess with the service menus myself, but I don't even know how to access them. Is there a guide somewhere?

I'll get a professional calibration done, but I need to do something in the interim. Does anybody have recommendations on calibrators in the San Diego area?

I don't have a problem trying to mess with the service menus myself, but I don't even know how to access them. Is there a guide somewhere?This is the closest thing I have ever found to a guide. It was posted on an "American Wired" website that vanished not long after I copied this. Note that this is probably copyright by Eliab and David Abrams and I do not know if posting is a violation of their copyright. As always, USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bcvp
WooGuy, you need a new LE. If you registered the set online with Samsung you get three extra months of their warranty, otherwise you need to call the company you have the extended with, I hope you have an extended warranty.


I got the extended warranty from Vanns, but Samsung extended my warranty for 90 days (I've had the set for 1 year and 20 days). Their sending a tech out next Wednesday. Thanks for the info though.

How ass backwards is this...I call Samsung and tell them what the problem with my TV is. I explain to them that others are having the same issue and expect them to have a clue as to what to do to fix the issue. The tech shows up at my house, looks at the TV for all of 10 seconds and then tells me the LE is on backorder and they will call me when it comes in.

What the eff? A monkey in a dress could've done what this guy did. Samsung obviously knows what the issue is since I'm not the only person to have the SIDE SHADOW issue. Why waste my time by taking a day off of work to have the guy spend less than 15 mins in my house to tell me the part is on backorder?

I don't mean to flame, but that really pisses me off. Thank you for letting me vent.