pen15nv, I haven't played with the settings for some time but it sounds like you have the p. size or something set wrong? The ) ( bowing is normal unfortunately but its less of an issue with more HD content. It could also be with the carrier if the overscan isn't happening on all the channels, it can't be the set.

Light Engine Swap Out:

My 2.5 year old 61" HLR suffered the light tunnel collapse and was unable to be fixed with just a new light tunnel. They swapped out the entire light engine with a functional one but the replacement was out of whack with a huge green push. I just had it recalibrated and the technician discovered that the color wheel was mis-timed.

Many of the original settings that were saved on the digital board were pretty close to the new measurements. After two hours of work the set is back to its usual beautiful picture. I think that the replacement light engines are a reworked version of someone else's broken one and are not set 100% correctly. I love this set but it is a science project.

The technician said that the HLR and HLS sets have a much better picture than the HLT's for what it is worth

The LEs are refurbs its interesting if the settings on it aren't reset, if that's an issue. The HLTs are lamp and LED based. The LEDs although I haven't been following them for some time should have much [better] color accuracy.

pen15nv, I haven't played with the settings for some time but it sounds like you have the p. size or something set wrong? The ) ( bowing is normal unfortunately but its less of an issue with more HD content. It could also be with the carrier if the overscan isn't happening on all the channels, it can't be the set.

How do you access the settings like p. size?

Hi,

I dont know if this issue has been addressed... recently with some channels such as History HD and Discovery HD I am noticing some of the captions of text seem to almost be cut off on the lower portion of the screen..

The screen is full but when they have a caption such as in a documentry type when they show the interviewees name and such, i notice some times the text at the bottom of screen seems to be so low that its cut off..

I don't know if this is issue with my TV or perhaps the channel..

if anyone has any insight please reply, thanks.

Pen, Menu, Picture, Size. You could also open the remote, P.Size, same thing. I imagine those are set correctly and that you're on HD via HDMI. I think there are more options for inputs other than HDMI, if you were using them. Some people had kids change those settings and not realize it.

It seems like Greg and you have an issue with the cable/sat people unless it was a fluke on the broadcast. I had an issue for a couple of weeks where the cable had lowered the top line where the CC and other data is. It lasted a long time on all the channels I normally watch so I thought it could be the set.

Hey guys, just got a new VGA cable for xbox 360. It doesn't say anywhere on the xbox that it is outputting 1080p. When I check the Sammy's menu it says it's receiving a signal of 1080 at 60hz. Is this 1080p?

Also, the picture doesn't fill up the entire screen. But why?

Here is a picture of someone else using a VGA cable over 1080p. It fills the entire screen.

http://www.helmetsstuff.com/images/setupnew.jpg

hdrevolution,
When you press the Info button you should see 1920x1080 60Hz. That is 1080P.
To adjust your picture size, when in PC mode go to Menu/Setup/PC/Position.

I've had my HLR5078 50 inch DLP for exactly 2 years and has been perfect until a week ago. If I watched TV or played video games for a couple hours the tv would start "glitching" and then eventually flicker constantly like a strobe light. If I kept playing or watching it would go away eventually but then come back in a few minutes. Now it shows up sooner and sooner and takes a long time to go away. Turning off the TV for a few minutes makes it go away but it eventually comes back. I checked the service menu and my lamp is at 2500 hours so I don't think that's the issue. Any ideas what the problem could be before I call Samsung? Is something overheating? Thanks.

hdrevolution,
When you press the Info button you should see 1920x1080 60Hz. That is 1080P.
To adjust your picture size, when in PC mode go to Menu/Setup/PC/Position.
But if the tv is 1920x1080 shouldn't a 1920x1080 signal fill it up? I feel like if I asjust the size parameters manually I will get a distorted and a poor quality picture because of the stretching that needs to be done, etc.

hdrevolution,
You can also use auto adjust under PC. This should properly fill your screen with no size distortion.

I am trying to get a PC hooked up as an Internet browser machine. I would like to be able to use PIP but the VGA input does not work PIP. My video board has a DVI and S Video out but the Sammy manual says the HDMI/DVI input will not work with PC DVI. I can get a DVI to HDMI cable but do not want to waste the money if it will not work. I tried S Video and it looked like c***. The VGA looks good. but the wife wants the PIP. Any suggestions? Will the DVI to HDMI work but just not be as good as VGA?

hdrevolution,
You can also use auto adjust under PC. This should properly fill your screen with no size distortion.
It doesn't fill the screen, it just centers it.

The PC inputs on these sets seem to get the least attention when set up at the factory. My HDMI and component inputs were pretty good but my PC input was off centered and the color settings were a mess.

I just had the set professionally calibrated and there is only a limited amount of user settings for the PC port. Even after calibration I'm much happier with the Xbox360 connected to component at 1080i than connected to the PC at 1080P for both playing halo and watching HD DVD movies.

Compare and make your own choices.

It doesn't fill the screen, it just centers it.

Did you also stretch the image using the "position" adjustment?

new2hometheater,
You can definitely get more saturated colors under component but the video lag is unbearable for me. The VGA input reduces the lag by about 50%. I couldn’t stand playing Halo Live. I was continuously getting shot even before the TV displayed my opponent raising their weapon.

Video Lag over Component with Xbox360

I don't see any video lag over component, although the fact that the Samsung video processing (DNe?) was shut off during the calibration of the set. No matter what the tech tried he could not get the PC input to look decent.

Has anyone hooked up DVI from a PC video card to the HDMI on a HR Sammy? The manual says it is not supported, but does this mean it will not work or just not the way they recommend PC to TV connection.

If you have a DVI to HDMI cable it should work... it does on my Mitsubishi DLP set... I have it actually going from the PC to the Pioneer where it switches HDMI to the TV ... and I use toslink from the PC audio to the Pioneer for sound.
GaryR

Video Lag over Component with Xbox360

I don't see any video lag over component, although the fact that the Samsung video processing (DNe?) was shut off during the calibration of the set. No matter what the tech tried he could not get the PC input to look decent.

You're lucky you don;t see it. But, the fact is, video lag over anything else but VGA is present. It's a fact. One thing though, I own a Toshiba HD a1 and it's output over HDMI (have not tested component) is that the audio over analog outs "leads" the video. When it hits my Samsung, it negates the video lag inherent in the Samsung. Go figure...

BTW: Tested this by having both the Toslnk and Analogs outputting sound at the same time. There was an echo which in the situation I had set up can only be explained by audio lag and/or lead.

The only progressive input the set takes is VGA. DVI/HDMI progressive will not work no matter what. I imagine there could be cards out now that are HDMI 1080i, that would work and of course aren't mentioned in the manual.

Has anyone hooked up DVI from a PC video card to the HDMI on a HR Sammy? The manual says it is not supported, but does this mean it will not work or just not the way they recommend PC to TV connection.DVI output works fine from an NVidia GeForce 7900 GTX to Sammy HL-R6768W. The only problem is that the display overscans quite a bit and there's nothing in the PC or TV to adjust it. I can't see the taskbar due to overscan. That's a problem. Win XP drivers.

I've had this TV for a couple of years now. I know everything on the HDMI input get deinterlaced and upconverted 1080. But what about the component input. Does everything on the component input get the same treatment? I'm thinking of returning an old non-progressive scan DVD player to service pending Blu-Ray bug fixes. I already have an HD-DVD player, but the load times for SD-DVDs are maddening. Or do I still need an upconverting and progressive scan DVD player?

All signals entering the set are converted to 1080p for display, regardless of original format and/or input type/source. These sets are fixed pixel and thus can only display a 1080p image.

All signals entering the set are converted to 1080p for display, regardless of original format and/or input type/source. These sets are fixed pixel and thus can only display a 1080p image.

That's what I thought. Thanks!

Are any of you using HDMI in to the TV from an AVR?? HDMI from a dvd player or Direct Tv receiver then HDMI into the TV?? I can not get a signal into my tv if I ran it through an AVR. It is driving me nuts.

At one time, I ran the following without any problems with the video:
Denon DVD-3930CI --> (HDMI) --> Denon AVR-4306 --> (HDMI) --> HL-R.

I eventually put a video processor in the chain and now avoid running video through the AVR. But, to your question, it did work. There were a number of parameters that needed to be set at other than factory default on both the DVD player and the AVR inorder for the chain to work. But, these are undoubtedly different for every combination of players.

I am running a PS3 via HDMI -> Denon 3808 -> HDMI in HL-R6168W with no problems at all. Also running DVD and DVR (SA8000) via component -> 3808 -> HDMI in with no issues. Make sure your AVR output resolution is correct (anything less than 1080p).

Wrong Thread - sorry

Hello, I'm curious if anyone has any advice for my situation

I own HL-R5668W and have a three year extended warranty through SAMSUNG.The problem is ,my set is in need of repair for the 4th time and SS is not very interested in finding someone to repair my set.It took them a month to recommend special relations to help me even get the ball rolling.Technically I set up my own repair visit with the same repair center that has serviced it in the past and SS no longer has a listing in their database for this service center.This service center has been amazing .They are 53 miles away and agree to come help me out every time.However this service center will no longer provide service for SS after the end of JAN.,and I,m more than a little worried.

SAMSUNG has other authorized service centers in my area ,even closer than 25 miles.I do not understand why I can't get these people to do more than call me back once.I figured SS would provide me w/ a solution,and not wait for me to do all the arranging myself. Every time a problem arises it does get resolved but only by the excellent service center who was willing to come bail me out again before their contract ends.Extremely greatful to them.

1st time ,tech removed tape, yes tape from inside the screen which was curved when I first received the set new. 2nd time about 5 months later tech replaced LE because of left hand side gray bar that ran vertically. 3rd time tech replaced the light tunnel for the same problem, and now the TV is sick w/multiple problems.Such as component video input #1 no longer works , I think the color wheel is going bad because after I turn off the set. A couple seconds later I hear a sound familiar to a fan going bad, on the rear right of the tv (definitely not the cooling fan as it stops after about 30 sec.) and finally 4 times now the screen will break into a weird pattern & turn multiple colors, but you can still see the image faintly. I'm scared now.This getting bad. could it be DMD?

Has anyone had problems with repair centers/SAMSUNG and how did you resolve them? Did anyone else ever see this screen pattern thing? Does anybody out there know of a reputable service center in the Youngstown,Ohio /Pittsburgh PA area? I live pretty much equal distances between these two cities. Samsung or should I say special relations claims to have contacted 6 places to help me with no success.

I should note everyone involved has been courteous and the TV has an excellent picture. However it has been plagued w/ problems. I'm in to this set until the end of 2010 .That is when the warranty ends. I have a good deal of money invested in this set. I am afraid that after this final service I'll be lost. I have used AVS to help me diagnose every thing that has happened so far. I've also ordered a service manual directly from SS.Not to mention I have always babied this TV and NEVER screw around with it and why would I it's under warranty. I leave repairs up to techs and got service manual just in case I'm all alone.

thanks to anyone with advice and anyone willing to listen.

I'd say to contact those authorized centers and ask questions. It sounds like you have a very large selection to choose from, most people don't. You know what to look out for and the routine so you should know right away who to avoid. I think its almost better that they left it up to you so that you're in control. Let them install everything and bill Samsung. I think its great that you have their warranty, although I think its ridiculously overpriced, let them deal with them. That is something you should find out too. Sounds like its the power supply, ballast, lamp, LE, DMD and um screen.

I'd say to contact those authorized centers and ask questions. It sounds like you have a very large selection to choose from, most people don't. You know what to look out for and the routine so you should know right away who to avoid. I think its almost better that they left it up to you so that you're in control. Let them install everything and bill Samsung. I think its great that you have their warranty, although I think its ridiculously overpriced, let them deal with them. That is something you should find out too. Sounds like its the power supply, ballast, lamp, LE, DMD and um screen.

Thanks for the advice and I agree extended warranty is over priced but I figured after the cost of a LE a 3 year warranty would be smart.

SS never suggested I call any of the service centers myself .I asked the rep to call the people who have helped me all along .SS didn't have their contact info. The service tech gave me a business card. Lucky that I kept it because tech and I were B.S.ing about antennas. I called service center myself. I was under the impression SS was on top of this situation and relax. I don't understand why Special Relations was unsuccessful with 6 service centers.

I'm just looking for feedback about quality service centers in my area to contact myself in the future.I'd rather be pro active with this situation because it makes me nervous with this latest disaster.

could it just be bad luck because it has been down hill with this TV. I expect nothing to be free from defect but I'm curios to know how common these problems are w/ SS products. I will however have to remember to ask the tech if he or his employer could suggest a service center.Again, thanks.

I guess I'm confused, I had read your post twice and it looks like parts of it might have been edited? You have a new issue that could be DMD related, the service center you've always used will no longer be authorized soon but then why did it take a month to service and what does Special Relations and the other six centers have anythig to do with it?

I think its a good idea to be proactive. I would call the other six directly and see how qualified they are like I had suggested, for future repairs.

Apparently this set did have more issues than some other SS due to the LE issue, which was finally addressed. I don't think there are as many issues with the current models, it looks like those issues had been corrected and SS overall is still much better than anything close.

(Special relations) is what the SS rep referred me to a month after I originally called about component video # 1 input was no longer working,but during the month I waited the other problems arose.SS never called me at all. I called SS.

Special relations is apparently a sub-contracted solution center as SS rep told me to contact myself .(the rep was in no way rude about it just not a good explanation)

This special relations does have a name but I rather not name names. Again they were not rude . The service center who is and has been helping me were never contacted by SS or special relations. This Service Center is not listed in SS & SR database(what SS & SR told me) and are located outside my service area .This SC volunteered to drive the 53 miles. I just don't understand why these other six service centers (who are closer) couldn't or unwilling to help me according to special relations.

This is how it was explained to me and thats why I'm confused. The service center who is coming are very prompt. Every time I call them ,they always come a few days later.I guess I feel bad that the are always driving so far to come diagnose the problem and have to come back and repair it.This time however it is coming close to the end of their contract w/SS. I'm afraid and hope they will receive the parts in time. I'm sure they won't leave me hanging and the job will get done. ( excellent service)

I can't make any sense of my situation with SS & SR.All I ever had to do get service was to call this service center myself and they arranged everything else.I just had to copy my receipt and warranty for the tech. I never imagined Samsung would be unsuccessful in finding someone to help me.They never told me.They left me in the dark.

As for the other six service centers I'm not sure how I will have any luck calling myself and SS/SR doesn't. SS and SR were very polite and I don't know SS policy. I will call this special relations and ask for the service centers info they contacted so I can call myself in the future. I hope they will tell me.

I'm sorry if my ordeal confuses you. I am just as confused. This is why I'm reaching out to people to see if they've had the same trouble getting service and how they solved it.

I am however looking for anyone with any of same problems as I ,with their set. In an effort to pass this info onto the service center in effort to get the job done before I have to wait x amount of time before they can find someone to repair my set.This service center couldn't guarantee they would have enough time since I am a special case.

As always thank you for being patient with me .I'm am frustrated and hope my TV doesn't die on me. this my only TV and my hobby (home theater) and I guess I'm a little passionate about it.

Next time just call SS and arrange to have service with one of the six. Simple.

Why was your last request for service different than the others? I don't understand why you waited for them to contact you, why it took a month unless you put it off for a month and why did you need to call Special Relations?

Why couldn't you just put an order in for service and have it fixed the next day, the way your other orders for service should've been done? I'm guessing a lot of this has to do with the SS extended warranty, which if anything should be straightforward and great.

The Service Center should always go over the symptoms with you before they arrive so that they have an idea of what is wrong and what parts they need to bring. You should never need them to make two visits and they should never take the set with them. I think you need to call SS in order to get service next time and you should be able to get service from one of the six SC next day. If anything now that I think of it, the SC you like should be aware of the other six and should be able to either recommend or tell you the ones to avoid.

I would call the six service centers and get an idea of how well trained they are. See if they are familiar with some of the common issues, if they make two visits or want to take the set with them. Also see how busy they are. You should be able to see the red flags and move on to the next one. I'd take the closest who seems like they know what they're doing and can see you right away.

I needed service twice under the original warranty and haven't needed my extended warranty yet, although it looks like my lamp is going a little here and there.

As I recall, I called SS, everyone does to get the service center info. I believe SS calls the SC and you call the SC to arrange an appointment. You probalby need to call the SS extended warranty dept. but it should be the same thing. A lot of people here were able to get service the next day or that week. It should be that simple, two five minute calls, one to SS and one to the SC.

My 1st call to SS was simple.Called roughly 10 days before X-MAS.I requested the same service center please.Gave them SC name, it was not in database.Then rep put me on hold , came back on he said that the service center you want is outside your service area. Rep told me they will have someone call me. 3-4days later a service center called me and asked basic questions model,serial# what the problem was,etc... Tech informed me they will get me service after holidays and I said no problem.Well I waited patiently and nothing.I didn't have the service centers # and so I called SS. I waited on hold maybe 5 min. and rep came back on and told me sir you have to call special relations,and that was all she said.

So I called this special relations which was a long distance #. S R asked my ticket # and said they will call me back to set up service.I waited and no call.I called SS back again sir please call special relations. So I did. When I called S R rep said we contacted 6 SC and no luck,etc...I asked S R why can't I just have X X service center.When I said that the rep said we have no listing in our database for X X service center. Rep informed me they will be contacting me.

Then I called old faithful myself and SC gave me the info about no longer servicing SS after JAN. and we'll try to squeeze you in. SC called me back and said this Thurs.It wasn't tech this time-secretary. She said tech will call you before he comes, but it sounded like she meant before he arrives Thur.(that's why I'm assuming 2 visits) I guess I should call SC Monday and see if that's what she meant and let them know my issues. (like you mentioned)Tech from SC has always called before he came previously to go over the problem.

the very 1st service visit SS sent this SC I like. (got bus. card) 2nd time I needed service SS told me to call myself since I liked how this SC treated me.3rd time same thing basically . Except this last time.Don't know why. Rep just stated they are outside your service area. We'll call you. So I did what they said. Until the confusion.

Thanks again!

I just hate getting the runaround. SS screwed up and dropped the ball on this one. It sounds like you requested service before January but SS messed up the ticket and could honor it since the ticket is dated before January, although I doubt it. It looks like SS jumped the gun by removing the SC before January, that could be the issue. It can't be outside your service area since you've seen them before.

I guess I've been through enough or more likely read enough to know to question everything when you get a bad feeling. I'm thinking Special Relations is involved since the SC was in your service area and they were authorized until January. I know its nothing with you but it doesn't make sense, that's what bothers me.

I'd stay on them, I don't want to see the SC bill you or something and have you try and get reimbursed from SS. Sounds like someone at SS screwed up, I just hope they fix it. The good thing about this set is you can't really screw it up since the parts are easy to replace. Just about any SC can fix it as long as you feel comfortable with them by asking some of the questions I suggested for starters. Just make sure they bring the parts, as many as they want. Keep us posted, I'd get right on it since this is already ridiculous.

Hello

Well today is Thursday and a tech came to service my set.Well I guess he came to diagnose my problems.The tech wasn't the usual guy I was used to, but still was nice about it though. He really didn't fill me in on what parts he was going to order other than I had mentioned my TV was do for a lamp.(previous tech said I was do for one)

I explained the noise @ rear right of TV. Tech was showed component video input # 1 wasn't working,but all the other video/audio inputs were.I tried to explain the strange pattern W/different colors. So... I hope he is going to take care of business , as he didn't open the TV up, but accessed the service menu.Anyhow he'll give me a call when he receives the parts.

Another thing I've noticed is I am experiencing audio dropouts every once in a while.It lasts about a sec or two.I am using HDMI out from Motorola DCT6412 (Comcast) The video is unaffected. The HDMI cable is the 6ft./thick black with netting from Monoprice (model no.3661) Could it be cable? I have another HDMI cable (Monster Cable) in use for BLURAY player.The monster cable was a little over $100 and I figured I'd save a little $$$ w/ the Monoprice one. Never seen any real bad reviews for it. I guess I should swap cables and experiment.Was wondering if anyone else had similar problem.

thanks for listening and advice!

I never really followed those issues but I think the replace the whole thing. I don't think its the HDMI, it could be the cable though. :) At least they didn't want to take the set with them but they shouldn't need to make two visits. I'd get an answer from them before they set up another appointment to be sure they have the right parts with them and how they determined those are the correct ones. I don't want them to make three visits for the same thing or worse tell you the wrong part is on back order now that I think of it. Usually they'll bring the parts with them with an idea of what's wrong and won't make the appointment if the part isn't av ailable.

I hope it works out, it sounds like its the same SC from before even though they aren't on the authorized list being that its January?

It was in fact the same service center. Just a different tech.However I did call the SC this last Mon. and spoke with the secretary. I asked if the tech would like to speak to me about my problems and she said the tech I prefer calls the customers before a visit, and this tech doesn't??? she also mentioned he'll have what he needs in the van, but that was not the case. If he was driving a company vehicle he definitely was not prepared to fix any customers sets (or @ least not mine). It was not the usual SS cargo van.I would definitely not ever let someone take my set with them.If they couldn't service it @ my home I would just go on to the next SC.So hopefully he is a well experienced tech and will take care of me. He was a nice guy and he did mention he has been in servicing a long time.(I think he said 20 years or so, but don't quote me on that though).Hopefully I receive my service manual before my next service visit too.

As for my issue w/ STB/DVR & TV. I don't think it is the HDMI cable after all. I was searching other threads and came across a link to Wikibook for Motorla STB/dvr's. From what I read last night it may be a problem with my cable signal strength (Too strong or not). I plan on playing around with STB tonight and checking it's signal values.

This is why I am very grateful to AVS forums and to it's members. Otherwise I wouldn't have anyone else to chat to about home theater and ect... with.

I will post my results whenever I find out whats going on or if you or anyone else is bored I usually visit the forums daily.I do own a SS BD-P1200 to keep me busy (lol).

Again, Thanks!!!

Well, wish me luck. I've had this TV since September of 2005. I started getting the vertical left-side shadow in the Fall of 2007. It's grown larger now. Luckily I paid for an extended warranty from Fry's (only because the manager was a buddy and got me a super deal, so I basically got the warranty for free). Anyway, Fry's is sending out their repair guys. (anyone in the Portland, OR area familiar with Wolf TV?). I told them I knew about the issue, and that I probably needed a light engine replacement. Hopefully they don't just try to replace the tunnel itself. I might try to get them to look at the Firewire ports as well. I had a DVR box hooked up to the firewire (it even worked with the samsung network thingy) and the cord got tripped over and now I can't get the TV to recognize it.

Anyone else with the light-tunnel collapse have the problem come back?

Well, wish me luck. I've had this TV since September of 2005. I started getting the vertical left-side shadow in the Fall of 2007. It's grown larger now. Luckily I paid for an extended warranty from Fry's (only because the manager was a buddy and got me a super deal, so I basically got the warranty for free). Anyway, Fry's is sending out their repair guys. (anyone in the Portland, OR area familiar with Wolf TV?). I told them I knew about the issue, and that I probably needed a light engine replacement. Hopefully they don't just try to replace the tunnel itself. I might try to get them to look at the Firewire ports as well. I had a DVR box hooked up to the firewire (it even worked with the samsung network thingy) and the cord got tripped over and now I can't get the TV to recognize it.

Anyone else with the light-tunnel collapse have the problem come back?


Wow, I got my Samsung at the very same time and I got the shadow within 2 months.

I told them I knew about the issue, and that I probably needed a light engine replacement. Hopefully they don't just try to replace the tunnel itself.

Anyone else with the light-tunnel collapse have the problem come back?[/QUOTE]



It is my understanding that it is the glue that holds the light tunnel together is the problem.Since it heats up it fails over time.

when I had this prob. the 1st time they replaced the LE.2nd time they replaced just the light tunnel.It didn't take very long to swap light tunnels.After changing the light tunnel it only required minor adjustments.

LE is very expensive ($1000) compared to light tunnel ($74)

Hope my experiences helps.There is definitely more info about this problem somewhere in this thread.

There's an entire thread here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=758625&page=65

Won't the component to VGA converter cause a lag of it's own? I'm tempted to try it, but it's an expensive experiment. I am still trying to figure out the best way to connect, and set up my TV for the PS3 (as far as playing games, not watching movies). Can anyone recommend any tips? How do other PS3 gamers who have HLR's have their's set? The lag is killing me on the difficult levels of the sports games. Any help?

I used a component to VGA converter (Vdigi VD-Z3) with the original Xbox and my HLR6168. Video lag was reduced by about 50%, using the VD-Z3. I found video games unplayable using component but acceptable using VGA. I know there are better quality component to VGA converters out there but this one worked for me for a low cost.


anyone found or experience any component to VGA converters with ZERO video lag? I apologize if this has been asked before, if so...a link to the subject will be great. :)

Just in case any of you with a HL-R5668W find that your HDMI inputs stop working for some devices you may need to have your digital board replaced. I've had mine since 11/2005 and have only had the Light Engine replaced once in late 2006. Then in December last year some of my components connected via HDMI stopped working. At first I thought it was my Pioneer VSX-94TXH receiver that I had most of the stuff connected to, so I took it in for warranty repair, but they found nothing. Next I called Best Buy who I bought the TV from with an extended warranty. The guy came out before Christmas and talked with Samsung on the phone and they suggested that the digital board be replaced. The replacement parts finally arrived last week and he came out to install it today. He did go ahead and order the analog connection board as well, just in case and installed both at the same time. The install didn't take very long, and once he was done I started plugged in the components that didn't work (PS3, Xbox360, Pioneer HDMI DVD player) and sure enough they all work now.

Just a warning in case you start to see weird HDMI issues that it could be the TV and more specifically the digital board in the TV. Yet another good reason for the extended warranty!

Steve

I have had this set for about 2 years. Approx. 4 months ago I could not get the lamp to come on. I ordered a new one and replaced it and still could not get it to go on. I called my warranty company, they sent a tech and we found that both lamps are functional.

He made an assumption it was the ballast and repaced it. Worked fine for a time but I still get the intermittent lamp problem.

If I unplug the set, take the lamp assembly completely out, put it back in, it generally starts working. Sometimes I have to do it a couple of times but I have always been able to get it working....just a bit of a hassle.

It is not the switch as I have played with that. Any ideas?

Thanks, Eric

Maybe it's overheating. Did you clean the fans when you had the bulb assembly out. And vacuum all the external vents.

I'm hoping that this is finally the right place to get my question answered. I've got a HLR-5078W, Verizon Fios, and an NAD-T753 receiver with no HDMI inputs. If I run HDMI from my STB to the Samsung, and then an Optical digital from the TV's digital audio output to my receiver digital input, I still cannot get 5.1 sound. According to the maual, I should be able to go to the Sound menu and select "digital" from the audio output pull down menu. The problem is that this selection is greyed out and I cannot switch to it, leaving me with only stereo sound coming through my system. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this?

just found the bad news out in the thread that I'm not going to be able to use the HLR as a digital-audio passthrough. One slightly different question: I've just purchased a Playstation 3 for the Blu-Ray player capability. In order to listen to 5.1 sound from it, would I want to connect the PS3 to the HLR with an HDMI-DVI cable, giving me the video feed to the TV, and then run and Optical digital cable from the PS3's audio out to the digitial in on my receiver?

I've just purchased a Playstation 3 for the Blu-Ray player capability. In order to listen to 5.1 sound from it, would I want to connect the PS3 to the HLR with an HDMI-DVI cable, giving me the video feed to the TV, and then run and Optical digital cable from the PS3's audio out to the digitial in on my receiver?

That works perfectly for me. I have a Denon Receiver w/o hdmi so hdmi to the hlr, optical to the denon. Just note that when you set up the ps3 it will first ask you if you want to use hdmi for video and audio. Say yes. Then go in after and set audio options to use optical.

Swflaboy, I would say its the ballast and or door switch too. If you're sure its not those then it could be the power supply, still one of the rare parts that get replaced on here, after the ballast. I don't know how to test for it but I'd get somone over sooner than later. Let them replace all of the parts if they have to.

I don't remember seeing anything posted on this forum but FYI TV Authority where a good number of people purchased this model from is out of business. They are in trouble with the AG office I guess for not fulfilling orders or something. I just went to use my Repair Master / Warrentech policy instead of Amex since I just used Amex for a digital camera. That's another story for another post but I thought people should be aware of it if they weren't already.

Ok, so I go to register my Repair Master / Warrentech policy today since my lamp is completely shot. I had been debating between filing with Amex or them recently. I decided to go with them and save my Amex for a product I don't have an extended for in the future.

When I call them they ask me for the separate prices of each policy. I explained how I got the bundle deal, all three for $499, the TV, the Screen and the Lamp. They said they can't help me without having the individual price. I'm like what? Who cares since that wouldn't be the price I paid. What would it matter what a store charged that I didn't pay for? They said I need to find out and call back.

That's when a red flag went up remembering how TVA had been removed from this forum due to customer service issues I believe. I finally dig up my receipts and call the TVA number. A recording plays saying to call another number for $5 they will get you the number you want. I'm like what? I hang up all confused and call directory assistance. They say they don't have a toll-free number listed. That's fine since not every number is listed with them. I go to their web site and a screen has some info about the CA AG or something and to call them if you have a claim.

I then called RM/WT back and explained all of that. They understood and we just plugged in amounts adding up to $499, which is what I tried to do and explain the first time I called them. The rep. took my info and model and serial number and says it could take five days for my registration to be um registered. All I need is a lamp.

There is some fine print to these policies, which I asked TVA about and they assured me everything's covered bumper to bumper or I guess corner to corner in this case. I'm just crossing my fingers since I guess I can't return the extended now, or that could be another issue. Just wanted to give a heads up since there isn't much talk on here about the extended coverage through them.

I don't remember seeing anything posted on this forum but FYI TV Authority where a good number of people purchased this model from is out of business. They are in trouble with the AG office I guess for not fulfilling orders or something. I just went to use my Repair Master / Warrentech policy instead of Amex since I just used Amex for a digital camera. That's another story for another post but I thought people should be aware of it if they weren't already.


That's sad. I bought mine from them and got exemplary customer service. Before and after the sale. I believed they were one of the more reputable etailers. I reckon ya just can't please everyone.

I have had this set for about 2 years. Approx. 4 months ago I could not get the lamp to come on. I ordered a new one and replaced it and still could not get it to go on. I called my warranty company, they sent a tech and we found that both lamps are functional.

He made an assumption it was the ballast and repaced it. Worked fine for a time but I still get the intermittent lamp problem.

If I unplug the set, take the lamp assembly completely out, put it back in, it generally starts working. Sometimes I have to do it a couple of times but I have always been able to get it working....just a bit of a hassle.

It is not the switch as I have played with that. Any ideas?

Thanks, Eric


Did you check the small service door? I seem to remember others having a problem with the switch there and the lamp not coming on. Make sure it is secure.

Evening everyone. Long time lurker, first time poster.

I've got an HL-R5688 that I bought on 2/19/06 that I'm having an issue with. The entire right side of the picture is blank. The left side is perfectly fine and displays all of my various inputs fine, just only half the picture.

I bought the TV through Magnolia at Best Buy and called on 1/21 to have them look at it. They sent a guy out 4 days later on 1/24 and he diagnosed it as a DMD issue.

He supposedly ordered the board right then and there and said it would be there within 2-3 days. I called on Tuesday 1/29 to see if it was in and hopefully schedule the install appointment. I'll cut to the chase and just say I've been lied to multiple times by every person I've talked to at that company, save for the last one. This last person informed me that the part was on backorder at their third-party vendor until 2/5 and it would take 5-8 days for shipping, at which point they would call me and set up the installation. So I'm looking at an optimistic fix date of 2/21.

Extreme hatred of Best Buy and their atrocious service aside, does this sound like a correct diagnosis? Is this something I could fix myself?

I've priced out the DMD board, and am currently choking on the $1k+ price tag. I'm quite savvy when it comes to circuit boards and hardware components since my main hobby is building PCs.

Any advice would be appreciated.

I think your service person is right about the dmd board. It's most likely the DLP chip itself which has failed and it is located on the board, kind of like the processor chip on a motherboard I believe. So they need to replace the whole thing. If they are going to fix it for free, it's worth waiting. And to buy the board is about as much as a new tv. So I guess waiting is your only option.

Right, wait for the DMD and have them install it, that way if there's a new problem its on them too, not you. You wonder why I call them Wost Buy and Circuit Sucks. Unbelievable how no one seems to care.

badgerpilot, I thought that too, I think you're right but he said its not the switch, I think he's referring to the door. It could be that since like you said it can be intermittent and would cause the same symptom. My take is let them replace everything until they figure it out! There aren't that many parts left to replace.

Hi all,
I purchased my set back in June 05 and it's been fantastic until a month ago. One day I just turned it on and it was noticeably darker than it was before, especially on HD channels. I figured it was the bulb, but after replacement no difference. I had a Samsung certified technitian come out and he says it's "probably" the light engine since the bulb is not the issue. He fiddled with the service menu and brighted the picture that way, but it's still a far cry from the way it was before.

So I'd like to hear from others if they have encountered similar experiences and see if I have any options. I feel like Samsung has put out a product that is substandard if after onlt 2.5 yrs it requires a $1000 repair. And sadly :( no, I didn't purchase an extended warranty. Anyone call Samsung and get some positive (ie. free replacement) action?

Any feedback much appreciated! Thanks.

IDK what could cause the picture to be darker besides the lamp? You only mentioned a brightness issue. If there were other issues like color or PQ I'd guess something could be going on. I assume you didn't add anything to your setup or change any settings. Are you due for a lamp? When was the lamp replaced?

I don't know what kind of test you or a tech could do to eliminate the lamp? I know I wouldn't be too happy to pay for a tech out of warranty who thinks it could be the LE?

There is a burn in time with a new lamp so it could be hard to see a difference right away. I'm wondering if something changed in the room to give the appearance of a darker picture? Ok, now that I think of it I'd bet there is a good chance someone changed the Picture settings from Dynamic to Standard or Movie or something. I'm offline right now with a shot lamp so I can't check the exact settings or menu but I'd take a look at that first. You have a picture but its darker, that is a definite possibility with everything being equal.

I just got the shadow on the right issue. What is going on Samsung?

Looks like its likely to happen on this model, just a matter of when. I think GeekGirl has a link on here for a class action thread since that is expensive to fix outside of a warranty. My friend didn't get an extended so I'm crossing my fingers he'll be ok since I recommended getting this model. I didn't know he wasn't going to go for an extended though.

I just got the shadow on the right issue. What is going on Samsung?


Sorry, I have a HLS model but still...

bcvp,
I checked all the system settings and they are the same as they were. This was my first guess with a 2 yr old and a 5 yr old in the house, but everything was the same. I've had a new lamp in there now for a couple of weeks and the problem only seems to be getting worse, not better. The set take noticeably longer to warm up now too, i.e. it takes a while to get to it's "full" brightness.
The tech didn't do any real diagnostics on the set, as he took my word for it that I had just installed a new lamp. He got in the service menu and looked at the numbers, but said there was no indication of a problem there. so he just told me it has to be the LE and said it would be about $1000 to fix. Not exactly my idea of a diagnostic evaluation. I'm tempted to get a different tech out to check it out, but at $150 a visit, I'm probably throwing good money after bad.

Hi all,
I purchased my set back in June 05 and it's been fantastic until a month ago. One day I just turned it on and it was noticeably darker than it was before, especially on HD channels. I figured it was the bulb, but after replacement no difference. I had a Samsung certified technitian come out and he says it's "probably" the light engine since the bulb is not the issue. He fiddled with the service menu and brighted the picture that way, but it's still a far cry from the way it was before.

So I'd like to hear from others if they have encountered similar experiences and see if I have any options. I feel like Samsung has put out a product that is substandard if after onlt 2.5 yrs it requires a $1000 repair. And sadly :( no, I didn't purchase an extended warranty. Anyone call Samsung and get some positive (ie. free replacement) action?

Any feedback much appreciated! Thanks.

Could still be the shadow problem. It is possible for the mirror to slip so badly that the entire picture is in shadow, at least from what I've read. You might want to take a shot at repairing the Light Tunnel rather than shelling out 1000 clams. At least you won't be hurting anything since you're looking at a new LE otherwise.

Well it looks like two of my posts are lost when the site was down earlier. I think its the ballast. The mirror would have to be perfectly aligned and misaligned to give a perfect, dim image. The ballast is on its way out. What do the different Picture settings look like? Dynamic, Standard, Movie, whatever? That would be interesting to see what changes there are if any. I'm guessing dark, really dark and off. I'd bet its the ballast.

I don't see how it could be a mirror or anything in the LE since the picture is perfect, just dim. Normally the ballast just goes and the set won't work and people think its the lamp and or power supply. My set now turns off, well sometimes right away and the LEDs are flashing for the lamp. I never really noticed it dim.

Lost my posts also. So here is the readers digets version. IMO the problem is in the Light Tunnel. I've included a picture where another member has a shadow going all the way across his screen with only a small portion at normal brightness. In related posts, the same member reported that the ENTIRE screen went dim and a few days later it changed to the linked post.

Check out it out here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12364599#post12364599).

IDK, I guess it depends on what someone calls dim. To me after having the shadow I know the difference between dim and shadow. I'd say he's had the problem long enough, tried a new lamp, had a tech call, that it isn't the mirrors or LE. I think you'd have the shadow by now. If he had the shadow already or have seen pics of what it looks like I think that might help determine what kind of dim we're talking about.

Fry's Redux:

So Fry's finally called me about my 5668W. In a previous post, I mentioned that I had overheard their repair guy saying that the $1200 estimate to replace the light tunnel was too much for them and they turned it down. They told me they were going to replace the TV instead, and that they would call me when it came in.

They finally called, and told me that I had bring my old TV to Fry's, and then they will give me a an HLT5676 as a replacement. I've looked over the specs and everything seems similar, however there are still a good numbers of features I'm sacrificing.

The Samsung rep that I talked to, suggested that they would probably do the HLT5687S as a replacement. Even that is somewhat annoying. My TV was top of the line at the time, and cost around $3200. The 5676 is less than half that.

If anyone has any advice, I'm all ears at this point.

SV

I guess it really depends on what models they are carrying. Samsung might be right, but not if they don't carry that model. Someone at Samsung probably knows which models they carry, maybe the rep. you spoke with is correct?

I don't know what the difference is between those two new models and yours? I guess knowing that would help. What was wrong with the LE that needs replacing? I assume its not the shadow issue?

I guess they don't want to pay for the LE plus labor. The set they're offering must cost them less than that. It doesn't matter how much you paid for yours or how much cheaper they cost now, its a matter of your warranty with them.

I think they are trying to do the right thing. A new, improved set, with a Samsung one year warranty I imagine. Some people were able to pay the difference on an upgrade but again that doesn't matter if they don't carry it, or don't expect that to happen or be easy to do.

They have to make you whole, that is they honor the warranty so that you have a working set I'd say either the same one, which is no longer available, fix it, which they don't want to do or give you one that is equal to or better than what you have. That seems to be your issue.

I think its another story if you have the shadow issue and want to keep your set. Get back to us with those answers quick, read the post again!

HD_Sports_Fan, I just read through these posts again since some of mine are gone. I think we missed the part about the set taking longer to get to full brightness. That isn't the LE at all, the shadow or anything. Now it sounds like it must be the ballast, which is for the lamp. Check out the cost on that one and maybe google around for a diagram. Ok, how about under Images in google for that?

I'm not sure why or how the HD channnels appear different than SD but now that my set is down I have a 13" SD set connected and the picture is incredible on the HD channels. The picture is really sharp and the color is great. I'd tell people to get HD now if they plan on buying an HDTV soon. Ok that might sound a little off but I'm really surprised and wonder if that is connected to what you're saying about SD and HD channels being different.

Yup. It's just the shadow issue on the left side. I read another thread where a guy paid a place to replace his light tunnel and the part was $50 and the labor was $300. Not sure why the company told Fry's $1200.

The main thing I'm losing out on that I use is the CableCard slot. I don't want a cable box. Looking at the current Samsung TV's, none of them have CableCard slots anymore.

I think I'm going to lobby for the LCD set. The HLT5676S thread here on AVS has a lot of very angry people pissed at their bowed screen.

SV

I haven't read in a while, and I haven't posted in even longer. I am now hooked up to time warner rather than Directv, and I cannot get the tv guide service to work for me. I have it set up with the correct zip code, but it keeps skipping the dates to 2009 or other strange things. Is this normal? Is there something I can do to get it to work correctly?

I am not using a cable box right now, but i might have to switch to one just to have the guides. I have the 5688w btw.

Does anyone have the tv guide working for them in the austin area?

Also what is the samsung model number for the dvr designed for this set? Either that or is there a better (maybe even cheap) dvr for me to get.

Thanks,

Jay

Spassvogel42, post 11551 at the top of the previous page, 386 has the link to the Shadow thread. I'd check through that for the current info. I think you might have more options.

IDK if they'd go for a different line, DLP to LCD? I guess anything is on the table, IDK what their cost is for the same size set. Its their cost not the price they sell it for that matters. The shadow issue can now be fixed without an entire LE, like you mentioned. The store doesn't know that. That used to be the case. I'd take a new improved set with a warranty over a cablecard. That's just me. Isn't the bow issue only for SD channels like ours? IDK. The $50 tunnel price is probably right, $300 sounds high. How much time do you have to decide and how did you get them to give you this coverage? Sorry, I forget if you had mentioned that.

foney_email, I don't know if anyone here these days is familiar with or uses the TV Guide. You might check page one for info and do a search in this forum below the current page number. Didn't they say the new models no longer have that? I wonder if its been discontinued or something? Afa a DVR I'd probably look at Slingbox isn't that the name? Just curious why you switched to cable?

I had to, when I moved to an apartment they required me to switch to timewarner. Contracts...

Is there any other way to get a guide on the tv? I guess I will just have to get a cable box. I just wanted the guide so I could use it for the dvr auto recording.

foney_email, I don't know if anyone here these days is familiar with or uses the TV Guide. You might check page one for info and do a search in this forum below the current page number. Didn't they say the new models no longer have that? I wonder if its been discontinued or something? Afa a DVR I'd probably look at Slingbox isn't that the name? Just curious why you switched to cable?

The TVGuide on Screen still works. AVS Forums has a TVGOS forum. You may want to check in there. In order for TVGOS to work, your cable company has to carry the channel which broadcasts the guide as an analog channel. Or, perhaps you could receive that analog channel with an antenna. If so, then you have to set up the TVGOS telling it you receive both cable and OTA.

By LCD, I actually meant one of the LCD-based DLP's. HLT5687S for example. I'm still losing the firewire ports and the cablecard, both of which I use, and gaining a bulb that lasts 7 years or so.

I'm going to call the TV company that was going to be doing the repair and ask them whether the $1200 was for the whole LE or just the tunnel.

Spassvogel42, yes you mean LED instead of a lamp. That is a huge improvement since the color is better and like you said the LED lasts the useful life of the set, it never gets replaced and is under the set warranty. No color wheel, ballast, need for UPS battery backup or cooling fan for a lamp.

Don't they have USB 2.0? My father has the top of the line model, I forget the number. The $1,200 is for the entire LE, that has always been the quoted price here. The HLTs should be much better than the HLRs, I don't think there was a significant difference with the HLSs.

I'd still consider putting a better quality set and OEM warranty above a loss of some features. Also its true 1080p, case closed. I wonder if you could add an extended to it? Its almost good that they refuse to fix the LE.

jamiebriant, no offense but I think your comments are a little off for lack of a better word since I got up a little too early and haven't had any caffeine yet. lol. Sorry. Yes it sucks and I agree with you about the cost to fix it.

If you only have the shadow problem, like many do, you should read the post I just posted above for the link about that issue and what people are doing. I haven't read it yet but there is a lot of info on it.

If the image is split or stuck left and right then that is the DLP that needs to be replaced. IDK what you mean about the color being off? Its hard to imagine you have three issues, even two at once is rare unless you didn't take care of one right away maybe?

IDK what flaw you discovered that they're denying? I do know they used to deny any issue for some time but recently, maybe six months they now have info posted on their site and are a little more open about some of these issues. Its hard to comment on without the details.

I wouldn't say you'd never buy another Samsung, if they have the best product for the price like the one you did buy, I'd buy it. Good luck getting that Vizio fixed, that is most likely disposable, not worth fixing. You need to compare apples to apples. Take a look at a top of the line LCD not a cheapo if you're going to be honest about it, for the same size. Yeah, a smaller, poor quality LCD will be cheaper, so? The DLPs are much larger than LCD and cheaper and have the faster response time unless you're paying a lot more. There's a lot more to a set than the size and 1080p.

Samsung's customer service is one of the best, better than Sony, Panasonic and others. As far as wobulation, you can't see it and that gets you the faster response than LCD and lower cost. Yes this model isn't true 1080p since it won't input it but the DLPs made today are. I guess you're looking at an LCD with LEDs? Probably not. The new Samsung DLPs are LED based like I mentioned in the post above. You won't need the ballast, lamp replacement, color wheel, better color so at least look at an LCD with LED.

I know you're ticked, I'd be too but an extended warranty was an option and most things these days break, I can't think of something that doesn't even my dig Nikon just broke. It doesn't mean your replacement set won't, I'd be interested to know what you're considering buying to replace it?

jamiebriant, no offense but I think your comments are a little off for lack of a better word since I got up a little too early and haven't had any caffeine yet. lol. Sorry. Yes it sucks and I agree with you about the cost to fix it.


Well good morning to you too fan boi.

lol

Go ahead. I didn't make it personal though, I said I disagree. You bought the set so you must've thought it was a good purchase. We all did. Like I said you didn't give us the specifics of what you're ticked about and I said I couldn't really comment until I knew that part. Stick with facts like I think I did. I'm not a fan boi or the president for that matter. The shadow issue I said is getting resolved I think now. The wobulation isn't an issue so what exactly is the problem? That might help [us] see your point and like I said I agree with you that it sucks.

First I don't know where you get two years of getting screwed from, isn't it a new issue, I hope. Second its not a $1k repair for the shadow, maybe for the DLP or combined. Some were able to get extended warranties on electronics you might want to look into. The catch is you need to wait about a month to file a claim and I don't know the names of those warranty people to contact. Some people are willing to do the repairs themselves if they're out of warranty and want to save some money. IDK if your estimate includes labor?

Ok, so you're just pissed in general about how they didn't handle the issue before you had a problem? How about Sony and just about every other electronic company? Samsung has always been there under warranty fixing their issues, really good service. I don't know if it matters what they say or admit to as long as it gets fixed on our sets. Isn't that the bottom line or are you still upset that Microsoft stole everyone's products twenty years ago? lol. Sorry.

Take a break, get some coffe and go line by line exactly what happened since the beginning of your post isn't clear regarding the color wheel and DLP for instance, the parts that you believe need to be replaced and why. Then we could look at options and see what the best route to take is. The guy above your post is getting a new set through the store, nevermind Samsung or an extended.

Ok, Shiite 67 pages I think on the shadow thread. You should be able to fix the shadow out of warranty for $400, not bad. The part I think is under $100 but you need to make alignment adjustments with two tiny screws and if you're not careful you could disconnect something so the set won't turn on. Worse case is you call for service anyway.

There is a class action and I think I'm the one who said they stepped forward about the problem so I don't think I'm hiding anything about them. I'm the one who said it sucks, I worry about my friend who didn't get an extended. You'd probably say you shouldn't need to get an extended but they just don't make stuff the way they used to.

Geez. lol. They used cheap glue instead of a clip or something. I don't know if its a design flaw but a defect. I think it should be covered and like we said there's a class action but like we both know you'll be lucky to get $100 out of it. They did address it by changing the defect so new models don't have that problem. The Xbox is a little different I think.

I guess I said a little off since you made this blanket post, brought up LCD and some no name TV. Your facts or points in the post weren't a fair comparision. No offense means no offense, that's exactly why posts should be factual. Your facts were a little off and bringing wobulation into it didn't help. You still didn't explain what exactly is going on with your set in detail. We get the shadow issue, how about the color wheel and DLP? Do you really think I'd bother to go over all of this and try to help you out if I thought you were a little off or something? I agree they should fix everyone's light tunnel for free but they aren't the first or last company to deny fixing something out of warranty. I don't know how much good it did for Sony since everything else sucks and doesn't last.

There I hope you feel better now that they call me "special" for my 1,000 post thanks in part to you. lol

I purchased my HLR5078 in November 2005 for $2700, from Samsung.

It developed the shadow problem in November 2007 and I was told, then, that fixing it would require replacing the entire light engine for $1000 + labor. I decided that I could live with it.

Two days ago, my color went haywire. Pictures at http //picasaweb.google.com/yvette.briant/FKDSamsung. It was accompanied by a loud buzzing noise.

I assumed it was the color wheel, but according to the service company, the half and half image means its the light engine. That'll be $1000 + labor. I still have hope that it may just be the color wheel.

At this point, I'm facing paying a minimum of $500 to get it all fixed, or $310 for parts if I do it myself, as some people here would advocate, and that's assuming that it is the color wheel.

It turns out that the light tunnel is a known problem. There is a class action law suit against them. There have also been an awful lot of posts about how to replace the color wheel. I'm sure that people who have little choice, welcome the help from posters here on how to fix their broken product. Me, I'm used to having products that just work. There are currently 7 TV/Monitors in my house (3 CRTs, 3 LCDs, 1 DLP). The oldest is ten years old. The youngest is the Samsung. Only the Samsung has had a problem. I have little faith that spending any money to fix it is worthwhile when I get a new TV for $1000. Even spending $500 so I can spend another $500 or $1000 next year seems like a poor investment choice to me.

I also somewhat suspect that the light tunnel failure could have caused the rest of the light engine to fail, though I also admit they could be completely unrelated. However, if Samsung had admitted the light engine problem sooner, then when my light tunnel originally failed I would not have had to pay for an entirely new light engine, and we would at least know, concretely, if they are related. On the bright side, I'm not getting dinged twice.


When I heard complaints about Microsoft XBox 360's breaking, I thought "Mine hasn't broken" and "I'm sure there are going to be a few incidences of failure", or even "Why don't you just get it fixed? Hell a new one is only $400! Not bad!". All of these remarks, of course, meant absolutely nothing to someone who had actually lost their 360, as I found out when my friend lost his. Turns out there was a design flaw that caused them to fail. Microsoft has since responded (after much pressure) by extending the warranty to three years.

I believe that Samsung has made a defective product. I believe that they are currently denying that it is a defective design, as Microsoft did. I believe that they should extend the warranty to three years.

Until then, I will not be buying any more Samsung product.

It was accompanied by a loud buzzing noise.


If you don't count the DLP wobulating, there are only 3 moving parts in an HLR. 2 fans and the color wheel. When my color wheel went bad, it literally exploded, but then it made a loud buzzing sound with the remnants spinning against the glass chips. The screen, however, was black. IIRC the color wheel was like $100 to $125. Details are somewhere in this thread.

If you don't count the DLP wobulating, there are only 3 moving parts in an HLR. 2 fans and the color wheel. When my color wheel went bad, it literally exploded, but then it made a loud buzzing sound with the remnants spinning against the glass chips. The screen, however, was black. IIRC the color wheel was like $100 to $125. Details are somewhere in this thread.

What do you think of my pics? (http://picasaweb.google.com/yvette.briant/FKDSamsung)? I'd like to believe that the 50/50 split is caused by the vibrating color wheel causing mechanical vibration of the TI chip. Hmm. Could one of the regular fans vibrate the TI chip and cause these effects?

http://picasaweb.google.com/yvette.briant/FKDSamsung/photo#5163940452335940274

No, its definitely the color wheel. The other two fans are fine. Bugger.

What do you think of my pics? (http://picasaweb.google.com/yvette.briant/FKDSamsung)? I'd like to believe that the 50/50 split is caused by the vibrating color wheel causing mechanical vibration of the TI chip. Hmm. Could one of the regular fans vibrate the TI chip and cause these effects?

This goes beyond my area of experience. I'd hate to see you change out the color wheel only to find out the chips is also. Frankly, I'd be surprised if 2 things have gone bad at the same time although thats not impossible. Considering the damage my color wheel had, which was substantial, it didn't seem to affect the chip or any other part.

I tried to look at the pics on the earlier post and again at the new post. I don't see the 50/50 left and right split, mabye its tough to take a pic of? It looks like the color issue is constant but not the split issue? Most people who have a bad DLP only have half an image. Yours seems to work, maybe not well but its not shot like most here. The DLP and color wheel are synced together. The color changes on each mirror. I'm thinking now its what controls both since the color wheel outputs colors, but are off and the DLP works but is a little off. If the controller was out of whack then I'd expect to see something like that. I don't think its possible for both to go at the same time. I don't know what part that is. IDK if the DMD board might solve it. I can't find your post? I think you should pay a tech to give you an estimate, they have to test it and know what the issue is. Then you could most likely buy the part and install it yourself if you feel qualified to attempt that depending on what part they say it is. I don't know what recourse you'd have with them if they give you the wrong diagnosis though. I know I wouldn't pay them unless I was sure they knew what they were doing.

Yeah, when it first went there wasn't the split, though these pictures show up in the second half. The first picture (curious george) were taken the following morning, and thats how it is now.

I've got this Vizio from the office and its fantastic, so I've decided to order a color wheel and try and fix it myself. If I mess it up I'll buy a vizio and bcvp will just have to avert his eyes when he comes to visit.

IDK, that's just it why buy a color wheel if that's not it, or spend the money if you don't want to keep the set? What size is it 50"? I can't see "tossing" a set worth that much and buy a junkie set.

Ok, I think I got it, you're willing to spend $1k on a cheapo LCD that won't last any longer but you won't spend probably less than that to fix an awesome set? If the set was working today would you keep it or toss it? I know you're mad but I think fixing it will be your best bet. Then you could sell it or toss it out the window. You'll be a star on YouTube! I'm guessing if the DLP is still an issue that its not the color wheel. The angle of the mirrors and timing make up the colors if its off. The split screen is not the color wheel, so it could be the board, which I guess controls the DMD. You might only need the board and not the DLP or color wheel. You might be better off with an estimate like I said and then get the parts based on that. I wouldn't fix it yourself if you don't feel comfortable since you don't want to make it worse and not worth fixing or be able to sell it. You should check out Costco, they have name brand sets for great prices and you don't have to wait for a sale and they have a great return policy. Oh wait there I go again!

IDK, that's just it why buy a color wheel if that's not it, or spend the money if you don't want to keep the set? What size is it 50"? I can't see "tossing" a set worth that much and buy a junkie set.


I'm willing to risk $165.03 that its just the color wheel and that I can fix it. I'm not willing to spend $1000 to fix something that a) has the same mechanical properties and failure rate b) is probably refurbished and c) gives Samsung any more money.

If it doesn't solve the problem I've wasted $165.03 and now have to spend more money to buy a new set. I've sat in Best Buy and stared at a wall of LCDs. I've sat in Costco and done the same. I've been on consumerreports.org and checked out the ratings.

It seems to me that an extra $1500 (a Sony for example) buys you brightness and viewing angle. Standing in Best Buy, the Westinghouse is obviously not as bright, but other than that, it looks, pixel for pixel, identical. And it should, because it is. The thing is, at home, I'll only have one TV, not a wall of them, so it wont look darker.

The mitsubishi and the toshiba get high ratings, and they are only maybe $400 more than the Vizio. But I'm thinking a Vizio and a PS3 :-) I'm sorry, I'm just not attached to brand names as some people. Hell, I work for a start-up company, and we have a better product than our brand name competitors. And if it goes wrong, Vizio's head office is closer than the nearest Samsung repair shop.

Did I mention that Vizio gets its LCDs from Sharp? I don't drive my TV through its cable inputs so I'm not interested in how good its mpeg decoders are - which incidentally removes the need for 120 Hz processing. I just need a box of pixels with a lamp. If the lamp isn't quite as bright as one thats $1000 more, I'm not too worried.

You must remember that my HLR does not have a 1080p HDMI input, so to watch my HD-DVD's and Blu-Rays I have to drive it over VGA, which sucks ass. $1200 for a Vizio buys me a vast improvement over what I have now. I could spend more, but I'd like to get the wife an iPod for valentines day...

Thanks for helping me think it through.

So I ordered the color wheel. $165.03. Didn't order the service manual. Can someone post me a link to a "how to replace your 5078's color wheel" please! I found this (http://www.jangro.com/a/2006/07/24/samsung-dlp-replace-color-wheel/) one but its for an HLN and it has a different chassis.

Thanks!

Jamie

The color wheel and DLP and DMD board I don't think are refurbished, the parts you may need. Refurbished is better than new since they are guaranteed and are actually fixed with new parts and tested. I'm not into brand names either, I go by specs. I don't know how you chose the Samsung you have but this was the best set with the best specs at the best price. Maybe you won the set and can just toss it? I don't know how much you can get selling a broken set. I'd get prices for the DLP and the board, just the board. I don't think they're that much and you'll have a new set you can keep, give away or sell.

If you get the split screen 50/50 then its not the color wheel. You can get color issues from the DLP or the board, not only the color wheel. The color wheel spits the color on the on the DLP mirrors and the mirrors adjust the shade/darkness.

You should be able to return the part if its wrong, check on that. That's why I think its worth having someone diagnose it, maybe you can run it by them first and see what they think it could be?

You're comparing low end to high end, there's a differnce besides a name brand. You can't judge TVs unless you have gone through all the menu settings in the store to be sure they are correctly set. If you walk in and just look at them you're not "seeing" a true picture. If you don't go online and get the specs of the ones you like you're not doing everything you can to make the best decision. If its just based on price then you will get what you pay for, no customer service and it will most likely be disposable and not worth fixing. You'll be worse off than you are now.

I know a no name doesn't mean its junk but when you compare a high end to a no name there is a huge difference somewhere. I agree with you on the 1080p inputs but the set converts it to 1080p so that isn't really a huge deal, you can't see it anyway. You can't see it when you look at a no name so I wouldn't make that the deal breaker. lol.

I still don't know what you plan to do with this set? I don't know if you've looked in to getting an extended warranty from someone? Seems like fixing this set will give you a bigger, better picture than what you're considering buying, for not much more than you're willing to spend. The part you buy will have a warranty and if you use Amex or similar they double the warranty. No one has reported new issues or repeat issues. I'd say you should be all set once you fix it. Seems like some people get one issue, the shadow, the DMD, the inputs, once.

So I ordered the color wheel. $165.03. Didn't order the service manual. Can someone post me a link to a "how to replace your 5078's color wheel" please! I found this (http://www.jangro.com/a/2006/07/24/samsung-dlp-replace-color-wheel/) one but its for an HLN and it has a different chassis.

Thanks!

Jamie

OK go back to page 377 of this thread for some posts I wrote about this subject.

I'm doing this from memory so bear with me and feel free to PM or email me for more info. The HLR TV is much easier to change the color wheel than the link you found.

1. Remove the lower access cover on the back of the TV. No need to remove the lamp cover or the lamp yet. There's like 10 or so screws and the panel covers the entire width of the lower part of the rear of the TV.

2. Behind the cover you'll find 3 major assemblies, one on the right, middle and left. It's the middle one you're concerned with, it's the Light Engine. There's a couple of 2, 3 or 4 screws hold the LE in. It's kinda obvious which ones they are. IIRC there's a ground strap on the right side that had to be removed. There's also a video cable with a DVI connection on one end that had to be disconnected. IIRC the cable is connected to the digital section on the left side of the set. I don't recall if the cable remained with the LE section or the digital section. Ya just have to be sure you don't pinch the cable when ya pull the LE out.

3. Pull the LE out. Be careful of the cable. The LE should pull straight out the rear. Be careful and jiggle as required.

4. On the LE, remove the lamp and I think one plastic shield. The color wheel is an aluminum colored subassembly about in the center of the LE as viewed from the top. 2 screws hold the color wheel in.

5. Remove the color wheel being careful not to bugger up the rubber gasket. If yur careful the rubber gasket can be reused. There's a couple of electrical connections going to the color wheel assembly. One is one of those silly ribbon cable slip connections. The other is straighforward.

6. Nows the tricky part. Carefully compare the replacement color wheel to to the original. The replacement I got had a pin on the aluminum casting where a divot should have been. The pin was actually in the LE and needed a hole where the replacement color wheel had a pin. I knocked off the pin with a pair of pliers and drilled a shallow hole where the pin was. I don't know if you'll have to do this or not. I have a very early production HLR. In any event, my LE had a pin one one side of the place where the color wheel went and a hole on the other. See post 11302 of this thread for a pic of the pin thing.

7. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.

8. Don't bother to buy a manual. It don't tell ya dick about how to change the color wheel.

9. Index delay. The manual didn't agree with my screen on how to adjust he index delay. I did, however, figure it out myself. As it turns out, I didn't have to adjust the index delay and I suspect you won't have to either.

My new color wheel has been in for over 6 months now and is still working fine. So considering I was prepared to buy a new (and bigger) TV, I saved a ton of money. Even now, if the TV goes south tomorrow, I saved a bunch of money.

You must remember that my HLR does not have a 1080p HDMI input, so to watch my HD-DVD's and Blu-Rays I have to drive it over VGA, which sucks ass.

Yur pizzing up the wrong tree here. I have a great deal of experience with the VGA port on the HLR and I think you'll find that 1080i HDMI input is way better than 1080p input over VGA. The HLR does a pretty good job of deinterlacing.

Here's some pics I found.

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/508/medium/LE_Exposed_Edited.JPG

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/508/medium/LE_Cover_Edited.JPG

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/508/medium/Color_Wheel_Exposed_Edited.JPG

OK go back to page 377 of this thread for some posts I wrote about this subject.

Thanks very much!


Yur pizzing up the wrong tree here. I have a great deal of experience with the VGA port on the HLR and I think you'll find that 1080i HDMI input is way better than 1080p input over VGA. The HLR does a pretty good job of deinterlacing.

It was pretty good for video, but I have a HTPC and the desktop was unusable at 1080i. Now with Vista 64bit I don't even have the option of outputting 1080i. My HD-DVD and Blu-Ray drives are both on my HTPC. If the color wheel fixes the issue, I expect I will switch to 720p over HDMI.

Refurbished is better than new since they are guaranteed and are actually fixed with new parts and tested.

You know that "special" label they just gave you...

Maybe but I wouldn't go 720p. lol. Keep us posted, you might check what the return policy is before you get the color wheel delivered. I'd still look at all the options.

I've had my HLR5078 50 inch DLP for exactly 2 years and has been perfect until a week ago. If I watched TV or played video games for a couple hours the tv would start "glitching" and then eventually flicker constantly like a strobe light. If I kept playing or watching it would go away eventually but then come back in a few minutes. Now it shows up sooner and sooner and takes a long time to go away. Turning off the TV for a few minutes makes it go away but it eventually comes back. I checked the service menu and my lamp is at 2500 hours so I don't think that's the issue. Any ideas what the problem could be before I call Samsung? Is something overheating? Thanks.

Anyone have any ideas on this post? My brother is experiencing a similar problem with his HLR6178 and reseting power had worked but not anymore. Happened 2 days IN warranty but he didn't call until several weeks AFTER warranty and Sammy is telling him to get lost.

Edit: I have 1 post? I'm probably classified as a lurker but I've posted plenty of times in Xbox HD-DVD, Tosh HDA2 and the Coca Cola trivia thread from way back.

How many days out of warranty? Several weeks sounds like two months? Did he purchase it with Amex or similar card that has an extended on it? What does the screen look like, is there an image, is it frozen? How about the sound? IDK but the whole thing with this set is there are so few parts it has to be one of them and could be fixed yourself.

The on off issue is related to the lamp I'd say, I don't know what would cause the set to shut down besides overheating I think or the lamp door being loose? When my lamp was going the set would shut down. I didn't get the LEDs you're suppoesed to get to let you know you're due for a lamp. I'd turn the set back on and everything was fine. The amount of time between it shutting off varied and I'd say was shorter soon before it was completely shot. The set wouldn't stay on for a minute.

If the color is good and the picture is good then I'd lean toward a lamp related issue. Get back to us with more info!

After spending some time on the "Shadow" forum, I am back here hoping for some help. My HL-R5668 (purchased in Aug 05) developed the shadow issue a month ago and I just had the light tunnel replaced earlier this week. All seemed to be going ok but this evening we heard a very load pop, the screen went blank, and there was hissing/static noise from the tv. At first I thought the lamp had gone out/failed. However, the lamp indicator light on front of TV was simply flashing as if the tv were trying to start. The lamp had never been replaced so that would seem like the logical problem but the indicator LEDs on the front do not match up. The static/hissing continued sporadically along with the tv startup tones. I tried unplugging the set for a half hour to see if it would reset but no luck. Just the sporadic hissing and the flashing lamp indicator when I plugged it back in. Any ideas before I call back the "authorized repair guys"?

Thanks for any help.

My 5688 got the right half side picture missing a while back.Got a service tech (PVS Electronics) to come out.Took 1 look said it was the LE. So am waiting for the warranty co. or tech to get back.

93SHOcar, IDK but it could be the lamp and the the set shutting down? I didn't hear any abnormal noise but the usual power down sound when the set shut off due to the lamp being on its way out. I didn't get any LED lamp warnings so I wasn't sure it was the lamp but people here assured me it was.

Matt, losing half the picture, left or right is the DMD, not the LE. What is taking them so long to return? If the LE is out of stock check the DMD, you might let them know and see if they can get that in sooner.

93SHOcar, IDK but it could be the lamp and the the set shutting down? I didn't hear any abnormal noise but the usual power down sound when the set shut off due to the lamp being on its way out. I didn't get any LED lamp warnings so I wasn't sure it was the lamp but people here assured me it was.
Yep, you are right , it was the lamp. The techs that performed the Light Tunnel repair stopped by today. They fired up the set and again heard the sporadic static noise as well as the start up tunes. When they opened up the set they discovered it was a blown lamp that apparently still had some filament in place. The static noise was the lamp arcing across the filament. They commented they had never seen one fail like this but I was glad to learn it was only the lamp and not something more serious. So, I called Repairtech and they will be sending out a replacement lamp. I think the light tunnel repair probably stressed the lamp with the multiple start up cycles in a short time period. But since both repairs were covered by the extended warranties (I purchased both lamp and tv coverage from TVA), I cannot complain too much.

Great! That is odd though. The lamp is shipped from TX. It took four days to MA. You need to return the broken lamp if you get a return shipping label. The instructions are a little vague so when I called they said oh, you need to keep the broken lamp for 30 days in case they notify you to return it. I explained that isn't in my contract or the instructions so I asked for an email to confirm this info. I still haven't received it. They said only a supervisor can send an email and they are probably busy. I was about to return it just in case but figured why should I pay for shipping and now I know they might not want it. I'd like to toss it if I don't need it.

Lost my posts also. So here is the readers digets version. IMO the problem is in the Light Tunnel. I've included a picture where another member has a shadow going all the way across his screen with only a small portion at normal brightness. In related posts, the same member reported that the ENTIRE screen went dim and a few days later it changed to the linked post.

Check out it out here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12364599#post12364599).
bcvp and jameskollar,
Thanks for the suggestions. It is now apparent that the problem is definately the RIGHT shadow problem. A bright area has now appeared on the left side of the screen and has been growing slowly over time. It is now about 6 inches wide. I'm going to fight the good fight and call Samsung and see if I can get them to replace the needed parts since this is obviously a well documented defect in their engineering of the product. I'll switch my posts on this to the "Shadow on left of Samsung DLP screen" forum since that is where it probably belongs. See attached pix.

That does look like the shadow problem and not a matter of being dim. Also, I don't think the picture is brighter but should be the normal brightness. Yes, brighter than the shadow but not more than it normally is. Is it possible that it could move that much that often?

I think I'd see if you could fix it without buying a part, why not try it? Now it seems more like its loose than completely off. You could definitely install a new light tunnel now that we know what's involved. That too is worth trying before calling a tech. Afa Samsung its take a number and save your receipts.

Hey I have a 6768 and my picture is pretty dim. I was wondering if there is any way of increasing the contrast. I know how to access the SM but I dont know which is the contrast levels. Thanks!

Hey I have a 6768 and my picture is pretty dim. I was wondering if there is any way of increasing the contrast. I know how to access the SM but I dont know which is the contrast levels. Thanks!No guarantee this will solve your problem:

SM Contrast: DNie Menu -> Sub Contrast
SM Brightness: DNie Menu -> Sub Brightness.

Now for the usual public service announcements: Screwing around in the service menu can be hazardous to your health and the health of your display. Record all setting before changing anything. Remember that entering the service menu will reset ALL of your user settings!! Use at your own risk.

For completeness - ...and you might turn it into a brick. There's a particular calibration option that will do that if you don't have a test pattern ready to go on the HDMI input.

Borhan, why wouldn't you just get a new lamp? The lamp will dim over time rather than just burn out. If everything on the set is in working order then I would not make any adjustments and I certainly wouldn't make any changes in the Service Menu unless you know what you're doing and record what changes you make including the ones you make by mistake! Also, when you change the lamp you will most likely need to put all of the settings back anyway.

Do you think something is wrong with the set, when did you notice the change in brightness?

bcvp and jameskollar,
Thanks for the suggestions. It is now apparent that the problem is definately the RIGHT shadow problem. A bright area has now appeared on the left side of the screen and has been growing slowly over time. It is now about 6 inches wide. I'm going to fight the good fight and call Samsung and see if I can get them to replace the needed parts since this is obviously a well documented defect in their engineering of the product. I'll switch my posts on this to the "Shadow on left of Samsung DLP screen" forum since that is where it probably belongs. See attached pix.

Yep, you definitiely have a LT problem. Looks like the LE is good so I'd go with asking for a LT fix. Somewhat amazing that slippage of a part in the LT can cause such big shadow without distorting the picture, but that's exactly what happened to you. Best to you on gettig it fixed. Hope Samsung does right by you.

Regards,

Jim

What do you think of my pics? (http://picasaweb.google.com/yvette.briant/FKDSamsung)? I'd like to believe that the 50/50 split is caused by the vibrating color wheel causing mechanical vibration of the TI chip. Hmm. Could one of the regular fans vibrate the TI chip and cause these effects?



I don't believe this is a color wheel problem at all. The failure mode in your pictures make it clear that there is something wrong with the logic in either the DMD itself or the logic board the DMD is mounted on. I doubt it is further up the chain in the Digital Module. This board is in the LE. I've included a picture of a DMD and logic board (not for the sammy, but should give you an idea of what they look like). Problem is most likely in this section.

Hi,
I'm glad ive found this thread. I have HLR5688W and right half side of the picture is pitch black. I've talked to local service provider, and he says its going to cost around $700 to replace DMD board.
Is there any other option that I can fix this problem?

Thanks In advance.

When half the picture is black it's because your DLP chip has failed. It is part of the DMD board so your people are correct. You should send Texas Instruments a complaint as they certified their chip for multiple years without failure when these DLP tvs started to be sold. Seems like they "overstated" their abilities.

Hi,
I'm glad ive found this thread. I have HLR5688W and right half side of the picture is pitch black. I've talked to local service provider, and he says its going to cost around $700 to replace DMD board.
Is there any other option that I can fix this problem?

Thanks In advance.

Mine failed as you described within the first year. Samsung replaced my DMD board but now (2+ years later) my HDMI ports will not negotiate a HDCP handshake. My HDTiVo doesn't request the HDCP handshake so it is hooked to an HDMI port but my other components do, so I put them on component inputs. I had the TV professionally calibrated about a year ago and do not want to change the DMD at this time since my picture is amazing (thanks Eliab). Since I have an extended warrenty I will probably get it fixed next year and have the TV recalibrated then.

Oh well...good luck to us.

datc87

Mine failed as you described within the first year. Samsung replaced my DMD board but now (2+ years later) my HDMI ports will not negotiate a HDCP handshake. My HDTiVo doesn't request the HDCP handshake so it is hooked to an HDMI port but my other components do, so I put them on component inputs. I had the TV professionally calibrated about a year ago and do not want to change the DMD at this time since my picture is amazing (thanks Eliab). Since I have an extended warrenty I will probably get it fixed next year and have the TV recalibrated then.

Oh well...good luck to us.

datc87

The HDCP handshake problem is not in the DMD board which is part of the LE. The problem is in the Digital Module where all your calibration settings exist. I know because I had the same problem and Eliab also calibrated my set. You can replace the Digital Module and still keep your calibration settings. The way you do it is to take pictures of the settings in the service menu. Pay special attention to CCA settings. Then, after having the Digital Module swapped out, you can restore those settings and get the same picture back. Again, I know this because I've done this.

BTW: Eliab was very helpful in telling me what are the most important settings to keep. I would contact him if you decide to have the repair done.

The HDCP handshake problem is not in the DMD board which is part of the LE. The problem is in the Digital Module where all your calibration settings exist. I know because I had the same problem and Eliab also calibrated my set. You can replace the Digital Module and still keep your calibration settings. The way you do it is to take pictures of the settings in the service menu. Pay special attention to CCA settings. Then, after having the Digital Module swapped out, you can restore those settings and get the same picture back. Again, I know this because I've done this.

BTW: Eliab was very helpful in telling me what are the most important settings to keep. I would contact him if you decide to have the repair done.

Good to know. Thanks.

When half the picture is black it's because your DLP chip has failed. It is part of the DMD board so your people are correct. You should send Texas Instruments a complaint as they certified their chip for multiple years without failure when these DLP tvs started to be sold. Seems like they "overstated" their abilities.

Thanks for your input. I'll contact TI, but I doubt if they are willing to do anything about it.
It's not like they have written warranty over DMD part.
Anyways, if replacing the DMD is only way to fix this problem, I'm not sure if I want to spend $700 on a TV that looks like has many problems.
Needing to replace a board inside the TV within 3 years of purchase is unheard of. >< at least for me.
Any thoughts or inputs are greatly appreciated.
Thanks

Sangdabom, I assume we are talking about the pedestal sammy. I have the same tv. When did you get yours and about how many hours does yours have on it? I found the dmd board at samsungparts.com and with their trade in on the old one, it's about $650 for the part if you do it yourself. What other problems does your have. I think $650 wouldn't be too over the limit unless yours is falling apart. That's about what a warranty would have cost. I'm interested as I figure these tvs all follow the same path to repair and its just a matter of time for mine. Thanks for any more info.

Sangdabom, I assume we are talking about the pedestal sammy. I have the same tv. When did you get yours and about how many hours does yours have on it? I found the dmd board at samsungparts.com and with their trade in on the old one, it's about $650 for the part if you do it yourself. What other problems does your have. I think $650 wouldn't be too over the limit unless yours is falling apart. That's about what a warranty would have cost. I'm interested as I figure these tvs all follow the same path to repair and its just a matter of time for mine. Thanks for any more info.

Yah, mine is pedestal one. I never had any other problem with this TV before and that's why I bought another Samsung DLP for my basement set.
I bought this TV on Oct 2005, so it has been little over 2 years now. The price for DMD board was actually around $450 through the local Samsung service guy. His labor was around $250 which makes it total of $700.

Maybe I'm an old fashioned guy, but I just can't accept a TV that goes wrong less than 5 years of use. I don't even have cable TV service at my home. Only time the TV is used is for DVD playback which is less than 10hrs a week(including my kids DVD time). TVs that I had before never needed service(they were old fashioned rear projection TVs, not DLP) for almost 10years. Only reason I got rid of them is because they dont support newer connections such as HDMI.

Anyways, I'm debating if I should just throw this TV to trash bin and get new TV or pay $700 to fix it and pray it doesnt break down again.
><

Hi all,
I purchased my set back in June 05 and it's been fantastic until a month ago. One day I just turned it on and it was noticeably darker than it was before, especially on HD channels. I figured it was the bulb, but after replacement no difference. I had a Samsung certified technitian come out and he says it's "probably" the light engine since the bulb is not the issue. He fiddled with the service menu and brighted the picture that way, but it's still a far cry from the way it was before.

So I'd like to hear from others if they have encountered similar experiences and see if I have any options. I feel like Samsung has put out a product that is substandard if after onlt 2.5 yrs it requires a $1000 repair. And sadly :( no, I didn't purchase an extended warranty. Anyone call Samsung and get some positive (ie. free replacement) action?

Any feedback much appreciated! Thanks.

You may want to try cleaning the large mirror behind the screen. You can access it through the large holes behind the round covers on the side of the tv. I used a microfiber rag on mine. There was like a hazy film on it. The picture really got a lot more brighter after I did this.

Question re: HLR6168 sound problem (and, of course, this does not happen all the time...):

When I put the set on, there is no sound OR the sound "sputters."

(For regular viewing, I am using a DISH 622 unit which also controls my over-the-air channels. I don't believe DISH is the cause of the problem...I also tried the Samsung tv remote and have the same results...I know what's going to happen...I'll turn on the set and the problem, as before, won't be there!)

Woops...the tv proved me wrong...it's still sputtering!

Any suggestions?

Yah, mine is pedestal one. I never had any other problem with this TV before and that's why I bought another Samsung DLP for my basement set.
I bought this TV on Oct 2005, so it has been little over 2 years now. The price for DMD board was actually around $450 through the local Samsung service guy. His labor was around $250 which makes it total of $700.

Maybe I'm an old fashioned guy, but I just can't accept a TV that goes wrong less than 5 years of use. I don't even have cable TV service at my home. Only time the TV is used is for DVD playback which is less than 10hrs a week(including my kids DVD time). TVs that I had before never needed service(they were old fashioned rear projection TVs, not DLP) for almost 10years. Only reason I got rid of them is because they dont support newer connections such as HDMI.

Anyways, I'm debating if I should just throw this TV to trash bin and get new TV or pay $700 to fix it and pray it doesnt break down again.

><

I bought mine about the same time. I use it more often than you do, for hd cable tv and blu ray. The picture is so great that I think I would pay the $700 your repair place is asking. I'm pretty sure you overpaid as much as the rest of us for these earlier 1080ps and just throwing it away, I don't know?

And if you don't want it anymore, advertise it on craigslist as someone who fixes these things would be glad to take it off your hands just for the parts.

Good luck on whatever you decide.

After 6627 hours on my HLR6168 I have a sudden noticeable drop in brightness. I’ve ordered a new lamp.

I can't see tossing a set that cost over $2-3k or selling a broken set? There is no guarantee that your replacement set will even last as long as this one? The picture is great on these, seems like you should be able to replace it yourself and save the labor. You might google or eBay or try Amazon for the DLP.

I have an HLR5078W. I have 6 sets of 8 vertical pinstripes adorning the left hand side of my screen on all inputs.

Anyone else have this problem? What is it? How much does it cost to fix? Are you as sorry as I am that you bought this TV? Please - let me know. Thanks!

I dropped my precious 5668 off at Fry's and they gave me the HLT5676S. They said the decision came from corporate and that was what TV was delivered for the exchange and it was non-negotiable. (I was trying to get them to give me a 5687S instead since I was losing my cablecard, TV guide online, and the firewire ports, all of which I f'n use).

The whole TV is smaller, which is nice, but I swear the wobulated 1080i from my 5668 looks a lot better than the 1080 on this TV. I never saw grain/artifacts with the 5668. Perhaps it's a calibration problem, I'm just going on what it was like out of the box.

I'll probably get used to it eventually, but I'm still feeling like a member of the family is gone.

Edit: No PiP either...grrrr.

SV

I have an HLR5078W. I have 6 sets of 8 vertical pinstripes adorning the left hand side of my screen on all inputs.

Anyone else have this problem? What is it? How much does it cost to fix? Are you as sorry as I am that you bought this TV? Please - let me know. Thanks!

The lines on the screen usually mean the dmd board is failing. Beginning to look like the dmd board failure may follow the side shadow as a common defect after a few years on our HLRs. If it is the dmd board, it's about $1000 minus $350 they rebate (just for the part) if you send the broken part back at samsungparts.com. Check at some repair shops, it may be less expensive as a poster mentioned above.

Am I sorry I bought this tv, not yet as mine is still working, but even if I had to repair it, I have enjoyed watching so many things on it, I think I'm still glad I bought it. Best picture I've seen on any tv. I guess it's the price we pay for being early adapters.

Hello everyone, I am back. I lost you all, when my computer was stolen. I missed you all. Remember me? I changed my name. I need help. PLEASE!!!
I moved and noticed that now my TV picture is slighty going down on the left side. Also, is David Abrams on this site? I had him calibrate my TV and install all black velvet inside the uint, now the tape is peeling off. What can I use to hold it down. Please help!!!
Thanks.

Guys, how can I check to see how many hours I have on my lamp? I lost all my docs that I use to have. Please help. What is the sequence to get into the service menu? All you help is greatly appreciated.

How do I adjust so that my picture can be level?

What does everyone think about these models numbers: HL-T6189S and the HL-T6187S? Does anyone own one and how do they like it? Has anyone did any research on these? Please let me know what you think.

Guys, how can I check to see how many hours I have on my lamp?Look in the Service Menu under the "Option" menu for the item "Lamp Life." There is suppose to be a way to display lamp life w/o entering the service menu but I do not remember it. Try search.

What is the sequence to get into the service menu?With the display in standby (off), press Mute -> 1 -> 8 -> 2 -> Power On. (Do not press the "->") To exit, turn the unit off.

Entering the service menu is dangerous if you do not know what you are doing. OTOH, accidental changes are always worse than intentional changes (Murphy's Law corollary). Enter at your own risk. Entering the Service Menu resets all User parameters.

How do I adjust so that my picture can be level? Sounds like you need to do a "Tilt Screen Adjustment." This requires you to physically adjust the position of the DMD board. It is a two person, three hand operation that is a real PITA. You might be better off having a tech do it for you ($$$). However, if you have a service manual, it can be done by the user. I believe the instructions were posted in this thread early on. Try a search.

What does everyone think about these models numbers: HL-T6189S and the HL-T6187S? Try here: 2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S) (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=827799)

Awsome!! Thanks for your help. I will do my homework now.

HELP!! Does anyone have instructions on how to adjust the DMD board for Tilt? I do not have a service manual. Can anyone please send this to me or point me in the right direction?

If I enter the service menu, will this mess up my calibration that was done?

HELP!! Does anyone have instructions on how to adjust the DMD board for Tilt? I do not have a service manual. Can anyone please send this to me or point me in the right direction?

Use the attached Tilt Adjust instruction at your own risk!!!! Believe me, getting the adjustment correct is not as simple as it reads. It takes time and patience!!

If I enter the service menu, will this mess up my calibration that was done? If any of the calibration was done via the User settings, then going into the Service Menu will mess up the calibration. You could record the User setting for each input (and, maybe, resolution) before going into the Service Menu, and then input the old parameters afterwards. I doubt it's worth the effort just to get the lamp hours.

If I enter the service menu, will this mess up my calibration that was done?

No. In a previous post you mentioned that Dave Abrams calibrated your set. He does not do this in the User Settings but instead in the Service Menu. Merely entering the service menu will NOT mess up your set. BUt, as others have said, DO NOT CHANGE ANYTHING unless you know what you are doing.

Full disclosure: Eliab calibrated my set and Dav and Eliab are parteners from avical.com. I sure they use the same calibration techniques. That said, for normal viewing, when done you set should be in standard mode and contrast at 80, others at 50, and color temp at warm1. Don't forget about the floating back. When swithing inputs you may notice the picture goes darker with can be remedied by changing modes (i.e. standard -> movie -> standard).

Came very close to a heart attack tonight ... I recently moved and tonight noticed what I first thought was a 1" black scratch on the screen. I spent about an hour working on it and now believe there is something INSIDE the screen, like a piece of hair. I can see a very brief outline if I shine a bright light at the screen. I'm 85% sure this is not a superficial scratch as I have a few other scuffs that are obviously on the outside.

So how do I go about trying to fix this? It's frustrating because it seems like if I could just get some air blowing back there I could get it off. Can I remove the screen? Do I need to contact a professional?

Thank you very much.

Why not just remove one of the round access panels in the side and look around with a flashlight?

Cary

The dirt is either on the lens or sticking to the back of the screen. I'd say the latter is more likely knowing that you moved the set. My set and a few others here had sets that had plastic shavings sticking to the back of the screen from the factory.

Its easier to open the side hatch but you need to be careful since you could stir up the dust and put some on the lens, which might not already be there. Also sometimes the air cans leak a liquid. The screen has a dozen screws you could unscrew if you felt comfortable being able to put it back together. The screen is made up of three layers I think so you need to be careful. If it were me I'd take the screen off before trying to clean the lens. You could pull the LE right out to clean the lens. I'd do that but I think there are some wires you need to disconnect.

Thanks for the responses. I called Samsung last night and even though the TV is in warranty they claim this is "cosmetic" damage, which was very disappointing to hear, especially since I only consider cosmetic damage to be something on the outside of the TV I did myself.

I was wondering if those side "portals" came off, and it sounds like that is what you're talking about, so I will see if I can figure out how to remove those and take a peak inside, and report back.

I think the issue is nothing is really broken, but it is on the inside. I don't think you can damage anything as long as you're careful. Removing those panels are a little tricky though. I think you pop it and there is a screw under it or something, I forget. Someone here will remember.

Hmm yeah, I was having trouble with that last night. I admit I'm not the best with getting things like this open, but I couldn't seen an obvious way to get the side latch open.

I'm not sure but I think you have to pop the inner cap to acess the screw, something like that.

Let me ask you guys one thing.

This DMD board failure looks like its not uncommon.
Does this happen to other brand named DLP TVs as well? or just Samsung particularly?
Thanks for your inputs

I know idk but I imagine you could google DLP failure or something related to service. Some issues are the DLP and others are the board so it might be hard to know. Afa DLP issues on here I think they are rare. There are far more other issues with this set than the DLP which are common. Last I checked the HLT LED line had far fewer issues.

I have 4500 hrs on my lamp and have a warranty that runs out in Aug of 2009. I know I should get my lamp replaced before my warranry runs out, but I was wondering if anyone here has a knowledge of the expected lamp life on these units. It may be my imagination, but it does seem that my picture is getting just a tad darker. So the question is replace now, or wait until I'm closer to being out ot warranty? I want to get all the lamp life I can get and I was wondering if anyone else is in this position.

I'd hold off, at least closer to August '08. They may ask for the old lamp for inspection. It could be a few days to get the lamp since they ship from TX, mine took longer to get since I didn't register in advance. They ship the day after your call. 4500 doesn't sound like a lot, you should get at least one LED warning, I didn't get any though. I forget how to check and reset the lamp hours?

I'd hold off, at least closer to August '08. They may ask for the old lamp for inspection. It could be a few days to get the lamp since they ship from TX, mine took longer to get since I didn't register in advance. They ship the day after your call. 4500 doesn't sound like a lot, you should get at least one LED warning, I didn't get any though. I forget how to check and reset the lamp hours?


It's in the service menu. There is a listing of lamp hours and a clear lamp hours. Don't remember which sections but I usually just hunt for them. They're there.

What happened with your lamp? Did it just go one day? That's what I fear most.

I finally have it! Yessss!!! Just kidding... :)

I finally have the dreaded shadow on the left side of my HLR 6168. Fortunately, I have an extended warranty from Repair Master. Any feedback on how it is to deal with these guys? Also, has Samsung finally fixed the shadow issue for good or will the new (refurb) LE also have the same problem down the road?

Thanks!

RM seems to be ok as long as you're patient. They are just the middle man so you need to be sure the people they send are good. You know you just need the light tunnel so be sure to confirm that with them before you make an appointment. They've fixed the issue some time ago.

You're supposed to get 1-3 LEDs to warn you of needing a lamp. I didn't get that. I wrote about the lamp replacement extensively on pg. 387 or 386 probably in case someone sees this down the road. The set will shut down intermittantly. The amount of time between shut downs varies but shortens and at some point it will shut down within minutes. You will first lose the picture but will hear the audio. This can last around ten seconds. You can turn it back on but eventually it will keep shutting down, needing a replacement.

I'd say after a couple of shut downs, say once a day I'd get the lamp. It started twice a week to twice a minute.

I think the issue is nothing is really broken, but it is on the inside. I don't think you can damage anything as long as you're careful. Removing those panels are a little tricky though. I think you pop it and there is a screw under it or something, I forget. Someone here will remember.

Just wanted to say that after a week of trepidation, I removed the side panel yesterday and looked inside. Lo and behold, there was indeed a black hair stuck to the back of the screen. I did a quick spray of compressed air, it flew away, and my set is now "fixed" without having to spend a few hundred.

Thanks a lot for all the info and tips!

You're supposed to get 1-3 LEDs to warn you of needing a lamp. I didn't get that. I wrote about the lamp replacement extensively on pg. 387 or 386 probably in case someone sees this down the road. The set will shut down intermittantly. The amount of time between shut downs varies but shortens and at some point it will shut down within minutes. You will first lose the picture but will hear the audio. This can last around ten seconds. You can turn it back on but eventually it will keep shutting down, needing a replacement.

I'd say after a couple of shut downs, say once a day I'd get the lamp. It started twice a week to twice a minute.

Thanks! Very helpful.

Had the right half screen go blank.Had service call on Feb 5.Tech came by today and replaced the entire Engine assembly.Took about 10 min.Could say i received a new TV in that reguards.Have a half inch tilt on 1 side.He said it was the way the housing sat in the TV.Tried to tell him about adjustments I read about awhile ago.He went into the service menu and tried to show me there was no adjustments for tilt.Duh.Tried to shove the service manual up his nose but to no avail.He said he would be back when he checked on some things.So I am going to try adjustments myself.Dont look hard to do.Then I am going to call the warranty co. complain, tell em not to pay till they fix it and when they come out to fix it tell em I took care of it.He was in a rush to get to next appointment.I dont think he knew how to do it.Anyway I got a new bulb outta the deal lol.My only regret now is my once calibrated tv is no longer.I had a bunch of notes about which controls to turn off DNIE but cant seem to locate the info.Someone help plzzzzz. Tried to search for the answers must be doing something wrong THANKS

I read your post again, well parts of it since its late. lol. Ok I read it several times now. WTF a half inch off? I hope you didn't sign anything. If you did I'd call them Monday or even better leave a message tonight so they have a record. Ok, call from your cell so it shows the date and time of the call and let them know that you have that.

You need to be pleasant and persistant in these situations, afa the tech knows he did the best he can and you hope he remembers to return. If you didn't sign anything then he knows he must. I wouldn't touch the set until they say they aren't returning. The Lamp and I think the LE are on a track since they pull right out. I'm guessing its something simple like that but its on them if something goes wrong. Don't call and complain just yet. If you signed for it then they must pay, sort of ask for follow up call or something.

I think the adjustments you're referring to are the two tiny screws on the DMD board. They are for probably pixel size adjustments, I guess above what can't be adressed in the SM, but just as slight since the point is you should never need to do that. See how fast they can return and suggest to remove and install the LE first, I wouldn't want someone doing anything else who isn't as informed as you.

Leave it to 5688's to be different lol.I got it to about an 1/8.On this model they have adjustment knobs to tilt or raise.I will adjust it later after they fix the picture.It is so horrible to watch SD. On HD i watch Law and Order and I cant make out where the lapel is on the jackets.Its like watching a one of those animated stock commercials,with the chalky faces if you know what I mean.Very dissapointing.I called the tech co. and told em of the problem and she said the tech hadnt handed in his notes yet.They have a 1-2 business days before replying.So I will have to see what kind of customer service they have.I am not a pin in the azz yet lol.

I would've handled that differently. lol. I don't get what SD has to do with it? I can understand how the picture is much better when calibrated but it shouldn't suck out of the box. lol. Stay on them, I didn't notice you had an 88, sorry.

I didnt notice until I really had a chance to look at it before I realized what was going on.I agree it shouldnt be so out of adjustment out of the box.My camera not working or I would show a pic.

Update lol.They are reording another engine for TV.Took a month last time.Until then Have to watch Law and order without suit lapels llol.Just when march madness is starting.

Are you sure that's the problem? That is unlikely I think. I wouldn't want to wait that long for another one only to find it was improperly installed. Plus your warranty is ticking. I'd have them return to be sure first. Maybe speak with a supervisor and have a different tech. see what's going on.

Well it's been a while since last venting about my HL-R5668W and now my set has a failed "light tunnel" for the third time. I have had this TV serviced five times now. I'm glad I got the extended warranty from SAMSUNG.

Time to get to the point. SAMSUNG has offered to replace my TV with a new one and the Rep. from Executive Customers Relations said someone will be contacting me within two days.

Does anyone have any words of wisdom for me or have gone through a replacement before? I am curious to what they may offer me. She said it will be something comparable to my current set. I am hoping I will be able to select a model of my choice that is around the price range I paid for the HL-R5668W. Not to forget the price I paid for the extended warranty(not cheap from SAMSUNG)

Can anyone give me a heads up to what to expect? I wonder if that means I'll lose out on a extended warranty with the replacement. I guess I can only speculate until the "BIG CALL".

Any suggestions for a replacement? If it's another DLP. I guess I'm pushing for a HL-T5689S or something from the new 7 series.

If anyone is in need of a "SERVICE MANUAL" I won't be needing the one I have just recently purchased from SAMSUNG. I am willing to let it go at a discount and is basically brand new.

It really is a shame because just about everything in my TV has been replaced with new parts. OH-WELL, if anyone has any advice or comments it will be greatly appreciated.

Well, first of all I think things are little different since you're dealing with the manufacturer and not a store. They are right afa offering a similar set.

My niece had a real hard time upgrading her brand new, defective notebook. She was willing to pay the difference for the upgrade since she didn't like the one my father and I got her. They ended up fixing her computer rather than sending a new one. Not exactly the same thing but I imagine they have no way of upgrading or accepting payment for the difference. Its always based on the current value of the item, not what you paid. I hate to think how much these sets are worth, or really not worth.

As long as the specs are comparable like DLP, same or better specs, which they must be, current model, which is great then I don't think you have anything to worry about. You're getting a brand new, improved set, maybe not the top LED model, yes they are LED now. I'd double check to see if that would be possible since they want to make you happy.

You should have the warranty from the new set, I'd speak with them about paying for the extended since after all that's why you're in this position! I imagine they could contact that dept. or something if they are going to take care of you. After all they are more than happy to take your money when they can. I think you might be getting this offer since you have their extended, which is great but really expensive.

Well I guess I will find out sooner or later my options. On my warranty certificate the value is set at $3699.99 so I guess a little wishful thinking won't hurt anything. So far I can't see anything worth owning but a HL-T5689s from reviews I've read. Maybe the new HL56A650 would be an alternative. The list price for either of these sets are still lower than what I currently have. Reliabillity is something desired. Anyhow time will tell.

Nice BSing.....

I don't know what the comparable, current models are. My dad got the HLT6189S last summer, that was the top of the line LED model. I think they would give you the latest lamp based model unfortunately. I'd look into the LED line and see what you might ask for. That's where your options might kick in, I'd check those out just for fun.

The only other issue is getting an extended on the new one. I don't see how your current extended will cover a new set and besides its due to expire soon isn't it? I did have a Tweeter extended that was renewable. If that's the case then I'd be sure they have the new serial number, model number and all of that. I don't think that will fly though.

The set needs to be equal value afa specs, not price. See if you can figure out the top two models you believe you should get and you might call the extended dept. and see what they say about getting the extended on a replacement. I wouldn't give your name or anything, you can't be the first person to look into this.

When my HLP failed 3 times in a 3 month period they offered to replace it with the equivalent sized HLR. The came in took the old and replaced it with the new.

Ralph

When my HLP failed 3 times in a 3 month period they offered to replace it with the equivalent sized HLR. The came in took the old and replaced it with the new.

Ralph

Who is they? and did you have an extended warranty?

My extended warranty is good until the end of November 2010. I bought the set in Feb. of 2006. Samsung gave me a 1 year plus an addititional 4 months warranty. After the warranty expired I waited a few months before purchasing the extended warranty. It actually takes a couple months before the EX.Warranty kicks in.

When I first recieved the TV the screen was bowed in and SS came and took care of it. 5 months later the LE was replaced. Actually it should have been the light tunnel but I'm not complaining. About 6 months later the light tunnel failed. Again about 5 months later the light tunnel failed.Then SS replaced the digital board, analog board, Lamp. Now I need a light tunnel and color wheel.

As you can see I've had my hands full with this TV. So I'm hoping they take all this into consideration. Plus the fact that I have a long time before the extended warranty expires. The extended warranty is definitely not cheap it was a few pennies over $1000.

I have always been curtiuos with SAMSUNG as they have been with me. Whatever happens I just hope it brings less grief than the one I have now. I am definitely going to negotiate to try and get an LED based model since apparently a lamp based model produces too much heat for the light tunnel. I have more than ample room for ventillation for the set plus the fact SS surely knows the problems with the light tunnel issue that most likely everyone who owns an HLR model or simillar series has had the light tunnel failure. Not to forget the class action suit for this very reason.

One can hope!

Just be sure you have an idea of what sets you'd consider to be fair and you might even see if the cost of the extended has increased. What would someone who bought the set you're considering pay for their extended? I would say it could be pro-rated but not necessarily equally per year. You figure the set is more likely to have an issue towards the end of the extended than the beginning.

Honestly I think they'll offer you an average lamp based model since its already better than what you have. Anything above that would be great and I don't think they'll touch your extended. That would suck, that's why you should look into all of your possible options so you'll know right away if you're getting taken.

Like you said Samsung has the best customer service. I don't know anyone who is even close. It also pays to be pleasant and persistant, like you mentioned. Don't take no for answer. When is this supposed to go down? I'd be pissed to have these issues for that long.

Its a toss up for me, on the one hand I wouldn't be surprised if they offered you the lamp based set you want and to transfer the extended but on the other hand your set is not brand new and the extended you bought was your insurance policy for that set that you chose to purchase and purchase theirs who happens to be the most expensive. I also think they're doing this since you bought their extended, I don't know that they do this in all cases that are similar to yours. Keep us posted and good luck!

Can anyone help me, How do you adjust the DMD board? Thanks.

I will post when I get the info from SAMSUNG. The Rep said I would have a choice of sets and I would be able to research the replacement possibilities to make sure it is something I'll be happy with. She didn't give me a whole lot of details and stated someone will be calling me within a couple days.

The SAMSUNG Rep. from Executive Customer Relation suggested a replacement before I even asked if it was a possibility. I thought they were going to setup a service call. Hopefully it will be a pleasant experience. I will be calling tomorrow evening when I get home from work to check the status of my case since today was day two.

Help!! How come when I turn on my TV the mute is on. I can't get it off mute. Has anyone had this problem before? In the menu the internal mute is off. Please help. Thanks

Check your audio cable's connections. and Be sure the volume isn't turned all the way down or off either on the tv remote or in your cable box's audio set up.

The following may be stupid questions but I will ask nonetheless. I hope someone will be able to provide me the help I need. All questions/concerns to follow relate to my Samsung HLR6768W

1. As I have always understood it, this TV only produces a 1080p signal via the PC input. Is this correct?

2. Was there any firmware released that would change this? I doubt it is even possible, but I thought I'd ask.

3. Is there a converter of any kind that would allow me to use a HDMI 1080p signal converted to the PC input of the TV? I have seen PC to HDMI converters but not vice versa.

4. Assuming the above answers yield the result I suspect & my only resolution is to buy a new model, if I wanted to sell said TV to someone what would be a reasonable price to ask/expect?

Thanks for the help guys.

The following may be stupid questions but I will ask nonetheless. I hope someone will be able to provide me the help I need. All questions/concerns to follow relate to my Samsung HLR6768W

1. As I have always understood it, this TV only produces a 1080p signal via the PC input. Is this correct?. All inputs are converted to 1080p by the display. The PC or VGA input is the only input that can actually take a 1080p signal. The component and HDMI max out with a 1080i input but the signal, regardless of format, is converted to 1080p for display.

2. Was there any firmware released that would change this? I doubt it is even possible, but I thought I'd ask..No. Requires different hardware.

3. Is there a converter of any kind that would allow me to use a HDMI 1080p signal converted to the PC input of the TV? I have seen PC to HDMI converters but not vice versa..The only thing that I found that reliably converted a 1080p HDMI signal to 1080p VGA was a $4000 video processor. Not very practical. I can remember a couple of devices that were advertized to do the job but none worked for me. Try Google "hdmi to vga."

4. Assuming the above answers yield the result I suspect & my only resolution is to buy a new model, if I wanted to sell said TV to someone what would be a reasonable price to ask/expect?.No idea. You might consider giving to charatible organization and taking a tax deduction of whatever you want (within reason) instead.

All inputs are converted to 1080p by the display. The PC or VGA input is the only input that can actually take a 1080p signal. The component and HDMI max out with a 1080i input but the signal, regardless of format, is converted to 1080p for display.

No. Requires different hardware.

The only thing that I found that reliably converted a 1080p HDMI signal to 1080p VGA was a $4000 video processor. Not very practical. I can remember a couple of devices that were advertized to do the job but none worked for me. Try Google "hdmi to vga."

No idea. You might consider giving to charatible organization and taking a tax deduction of whatever you want (within reason) instead.

Thanks for the response.

If I where to purchase a Blu-Ray player and hook it up to this TV, would it be worth it.

What I mean is, would the picture be noticeable different then if I had a TV that cound handle an HDMI 1080p input?

I would hate to waste the money on Blu-Ray to get a substandard picture.

Thanks for the response.

If I where to purchase a Blu-Ray player and hook it up to this TV, would it be worth it.

What I mean is, would the picture be noticeable different then if I had a TV that cound handle an HDMI 1080p input?

I would hate to waste the money on Blu-Ray to get a substandard picture.Too many variables ranging from seating distance to visual acuity to personal preferences for there to be a definitive answer. I'd venture that in most home setups, you would not notice a difference (please, no flames). Your best bet is to try it and see for yourself if there is a noticable difference. Got any friends with a 1080p input capable display. Purchase a Blu-Ray player from one of the big box stores (BB, CC , CostCo) with a liberal return policy (30-day no questions asked returns) and try it. No difference? Return the player. Mind you, that there could be so many differences between your friend's setup and your current or future setup as to make the comparison invalid. FWIW.

Thanks for the response.

If I where to purchase a Blu-Ray player and hook it up to this TV, would it be worth it.

What I mean is, would the picture be noticeable different then if I had a TV that cound handle an HDMI 1080p input?

I would hate to waste the money on Blu-Ray to get a substandard picture.

I have an HLR which limits the input to 1080i with 24fps off with my Samsung Blu Ray 1400. My opinion on the picture improvement from my Sammy upconverting dvd player is that the Bluray provides about a 25% increase in picture quality and 50% in sound quality over regular dvd players.

Ofcourse, that's just my opinion. If the bluray movie happens to be a top of the line production and they put a lot of effort into the conversion to blu ray it can be much better. If it's a standard level movie where they don't do too good a job in the conversion to bluray, you almost can't see the difference.

From what I have read, the 1080i vs 1080p input is not really noticeable as our tvs upconvert to 1080p and most can't notice the difference. It's just that bluray has great and not so great transfers just like regular dvds.

Hope that helps a little. My blu ray was a gift and I don't think I would have bought one myself. A few more years and they will be more stable (tho mine works well) and cheaper probably.

The other issue is some movies are converted better than others. If you don't like the picture it could be the movie, I'd try another. You shouldn't notice a difference on another set. I'm holding out for a recordable BD in a HT in a box with the BD audio format, what ever that is called, with Sirius and XM. lol.

Thanks for the response.

If I where to purchase a Blu-Ray player and hook it up to this TV, would it be worth it.

What I mean is, would the picture be noticeable different then if I had a TV that cound handle an HDMI 1080p input?

I would hate to waste the money on Blu-Ray to get a substandard picture.

I have a Sony PS3 hooked up via HDMI to my HL-R 6168. I think the PQ is nothing short of amazing if the BD DVD is properly mastered. For example, Casino Royale is simply stunning. I use it to show off BluRay/PS3 to friends and family and they are all suitably impressed. :)

Can't comment on 1080p vs 1080i - all I can say is that 1080i is plenty good.

Thanks. I'm on the edge of getting a PS3 for my HL-R6768...

There's no 1080p on the HDMI input (at least on mine). VGA (PC) only. However, I fully agree that 1080i can look darn good. I've got Verizon FiOS and HDnet is outstanding.

Thanks. I'm on the edge of getting a PS3 for my HL-R6768...

There's no 1080p on the HDMI input (at least on mine). VGA (PC) only. However, I fully agree that 1080i can look darn good. I've got Verizon FiOS and HDnet is outstanding.

If you're buying the PS3 just for movies ya might want to wait. Sony is coming out with standalone players in the $400 - $500 range. They will finally have the the full BD 2.0 spec (meaning e-net) and the higher end model will decode all of the audio codecs including DTS HD MA. There is no player on the market today that does that does that including the PS3. Plus they will support bitstream which the PS3 does not and never will. Here is a link (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1000180) to a thread on these new models.

If you're buying the PS3 just for movies ya might want to wait. Sony is coming out with standalone players in the $400 - $500 range. They will finally have the the full BD 2.0 spec (meaning e-net) and the higher end model will decode all of the audio codecs including DTS HD MA. There is no player on the market today that does that does that including the PS3. Plus they will support bitstream which the PS3 does not and never will. Here is a link (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1000180) to a thread on these new models.

Fair point but the PS3 is already 2.0 - with the latest firmware. Agreed that it will never bitstream audio but it decodes Dolby True HD today and most people believe it will also be able to decode DTS HD MA in a future firmware release. Most AVRs cannot decode these formats anyway - so the ability to bitstream is not a huge deal for most folks. Also, the sound quality on bitstream v/s LPCM is bit for bit identical - so there is no loss in audio quality.

PS3 is already the best BD player out there. IMHO, of course.

I guess we veered slightly OT. Please check the BluRay threads on AVSforum like jameskollar has already mentioned....

Cheers.

Long time now but I am at least getting a replacement for my HL-R5668W. All in all if anyone purchases an extended warranty through SAMSUNG, let it be known that the warranty is actually a third party warranty called "SERVICE NET" and you have to deal with the people at "SERVICE NET" after being accepted for an exchange from SAMSUNG. Let me tell you "SERVICE NET" is not in the business of customer service and was a pain in the butt for me in any case. Long story short, I have been waiting for a replacement offer since April 24th and was given a replacement from SAMSUNG with no help from "SERVICE NET" run-around. "SERVICE NET" = CLUELESS

The model I will be receiving wil be a HL56A650. As for the remainder of my extended warranty. It will be transferred to the new model.

SAMSUNG has made the decision and not "SERVICE NET". What's the point of "SERVICE NET"???? Don't ask me I do not know. In all the time I waited for "SN" to call to offer a replacement. SAMSUNG made it for them. The lack of customer service was finally ended after my 5th call to SAMSUNG "ECR" today. Which in the last call was given the offer. Easy enough wasn't it. Could have been done on day one if you ask me.

All I ask for now is a trouble free set, but who am I kidding? !!! Too bad the "7" series didn't have a 56" model because it would have eliminated the lamp and hopefully the "light tunnel" issue is a non issue with the "6" series. wether SAMSUNG has a problem with DLP or what the problem is ? I personally have had enough of "DLP".

That is nuts. Here I thought you paid a premium to get Samsung's warranty. I'm glad they stood behind it though. The lack of CS seems to be the norm these days. What took eight hours with an online car part supplier should've taken maybe twenty minutes. Never mind Sprint.

You should be trouble free now, DLPs are a great option, when they work. How long did it take from the time you were offered a replacement to shipping it?

How does this model compare? What new features does it have, how about the specs?

The model I will be receiving wil be a HL56A650. Off topic, but nevertheless, is the A650 shipping yet? When did they tell you to expect to see this thing?

Hi all. A month ago had the the DLP engine replaced for right half side shadow,only to have tilt and crush of colors which made it almost unbearable to watch.Today it was replaced.Now it is back to as if I bought it when it was new. Slight tilt but when I get ambitious I will do an adjustment. Sucks tho cause the Tech company doesnt do calibration as my other TV was by David Abrams. So I am going to try and see if the warranty co. will slurge on a calibration LOL ya right.But will try. Still think its a shame after all that one pays for these sets we gat a run around and the failures we incurred.

This a link to a thread which discusses the new series of DLP from SAMSUNG.
Pics, Specs, The good, The bad, ETC.............

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=971265

I will be receiving a call from the delivery service to setup delivery/exchange and was told I will receive the new set within 14-21 business days as of today.

One thing I will be excited to see is 3D technology on this set, 1080P input on HDMI and a rumor that these new sets use a "DC4" Dark Chip 4 from TEXAS INSTRUMENTS.

One thing I wish was to eliminate the "LAMP" and if the "750" series had a 56" model I would've had an LED model. Some info I was given the last time I had my lamp replaced on the HLR-5668W was that there will be a conversion kit avaliable to switch "LAMP" based DLP sets to "LED". If anyone disagrees please do "NOT" take it out on me. If anyone wants to know about this. A Father & Son Tech Duo came to my house and while generally B.S.ing they mentioned this. So If anyone wants to hear it for yourself I guess if you PM me I can provide you a Phone # and/or Email address. Don't piss these people off though I need this service center to provide me service when necessary.

Another "rumor" I heard was from a previous "service center" and ran it past the new one was: SAMSUNG is kicking around the idea of bringing in their own "Service Techs" from Korea and setting up shop in major cities to provide service and eliminate contracted work. The new service center confirmed the same rumor. If this goes through I would hate to see the kind of service SAMSUNG owners will get then. I hope this is not the case. So be on the look-out in the future.

Sounds good, I'd be sure to get some sort of signature from them that shows that they did pick it up and the condition or whatever. I also wouldn't sign for the new one if the box isn't perfect. I'd try to offer a beer or something while you test it even. It isn't their fault or problem but that would save a lot knowing what you've been through.

Your info could be correct, I wouldn't put their contact info out there regardless though, that isn't achieving anything really. Samsung CS is tops, try any of this with just about anyone and see how far you get, Sony, you name it. The issue is mostly poor training with centers outside major metro areas though. You can't beat real, trained techs right from the source, that would be awesome, bring it!

This a link to a thread which discusses the new series of DLP from SAMSUNG.
Pics, Specs, The good, The bad, ETC.............

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=971265

I will be receiving a call from the delivery service to setup delivery/exchange and was told I will receive the new set within 14-21 business days as of today. I have been following the A650/A750 thread which is why I asked about the promised delivery time. None of the posters in that thread currently have a A650, just A750's. None of the web sites I have checked have the A650's in stock. And, one rumor in the referenced thread is that the A650's will not be out until June. If the delivery info you received is correct, you could be one of the first people (if not first)to get one. Really hope the rumors are wrong and you do not have to wait that long. Good luck.

Sounds good, I'd be sure to get some sort of signature from them that shows that they did pick it up and the condition or whatever. I also wouldn't sign for the new one if the box isn't perfect. I'd try to offer a beer or something while you test it even. It isn't their fault or problem but that would save a lot knowing what you've been through.

Your info could be correct, I wouldn't put their contact info out there regardless though, that isn't achieving anything really. Samsung CS is tops, try any of this with just about anyone and see how far you get, Sony, you name it. The issue is mostly poor training with centers outside major metro areas though. You can't beat real, trained techs right from the source, that would be awesome, bring it!

If the set isn't in proper conditon I would refuse it. While they pack up the HL-R5668W I'll check out the new one. when I had the HL-R5668W delivered the guy was eager to hit the road, but it's part of the delivery contract so he had no choice. I am never rude, but will not be walked on.

As for putting out contact info I was referring to the LED conversion kit and hope that no one would be interested in debating the importing of service techs. I live about 30 min. slightly NorthWest of Pittsburgh, PA. and use to have 6 service centers that would provide service and now I have 1-2 as far as I know from Samsung. What would that do to people in rural areas? No on site service? I always take rumors for what they are "rumors" and/or speculation.

I just hope this situation goes a little smoother here out.

I have been following the A650/A750 thread which is why I asked about the promised delivery time. None of the posters in that thread currently have a A650, just A750's. None of the web sites I have checked have the A650's in stock. And, one rumor in the referenced thread is that the A650's will not be out until June. If the delivery info you received is correct, you could be one of the first people (if not first)to get one. Really hope the rumors are wrong and you do not have to wait that long. Good luck.

I sure hope the "ECR" person knows what the deal is. I explained that I couldn't get anyone to call me back from "SERVICE NET" and couldn't get anything resolved and she did it on the spot. I guess like always I'll have to wait and see. If I get it as promised I'll be sure to provide feedback on the A650.(on the A650/750 thread) I will wait 10-12 business days and call back to check the status of my exchange. I have to catch up to the last 10 days or so of the A650/A750 thread.



It really is hard to watch a movie/TV with a gray shadow. I am fixated on it and really don't even know what I'm watching. Wait.... I'm watching "The Gray Shadow Show" and it's in it's 4th season. It's kind of like Seinfeld and nothing ever happens. " No Soup For Me"

I sure hope the "ECR" person knows what the deal is. Hmmm.... Maybe she does. I just saw a post on the A650/A750 thread wherein the poster reported looking at an A650 and an A750 side-by-side. (Whew... 10-12 days on that thread is a lot of reading.)

ETA is next Friday on my exchange. Starting to get excited.

Sweet, I keep checking in! lol

The new set came yesterday and was in excellent condition so I guess it's been fun reading/sharing. take care people.

I will no longer be needing my OPPO HDMI switcher so if anyone is in need it's in excellent condition and maybe 5 months old. Still have box and everything it came with, just PM.

As always thanks for the help it's very much appreciated.

That's great, finally! Take care.

The lines on the screen usually mean the dmd board is failing. Beginning to look like the dmd board failure may follow the side shadow as a common defect after a few years on our HLRs. If it is the dmd board, it's about $1000 minus $350 they rebate (just for the part) if you send the broken part back at samsungparts.com. Check at some repair shops, it may be less expensive as a poster mentioned above.

Am I sorry I bought this tv, not yet as mine is still working, but even if I had to repair it, I have enjoyed watching so many things on it, I think I'm still glad I bought it. Best picture I've seen on any tv. I guess it's the price we pay for being early adapters.
Well, DMD board failed, Samsung ECR refused to compensate, and I am done with Samsung for the rest of my life. I have never been ripped off this badly in my life.

The only reason I bought the HLR model back in Dec 2005 was because the DLP technology was mature. After about a year or so, the adhesive in the light tunnel mirrors failed causing ad nausem grief and replacement light engines. Turns out that they changed the adhesive to reduce costs (at least that's what I understand after reading many posts in the Shadow thread).

Another reason I bought the Samsung is that, at that time, the SONY SXRD's were having problems already and the Samsung was seen as the "safer bet". In hindsight, the only difference is that the SONYs failed very soon, where the SamSungs failed about a year later.

I'm on my 2nd light engine replacement and so far, so good. When it's working the picture on my HLR-6768W is fantastic. Hopefully, this last replacement contains the updated light tunnel design (better adhesive?). And I do mean that this is the last replacement. If the next failure is more than a light tunnel (about $400 if you pay a service tech), time to look elsewhere.

I tried searching the thread, but wasn't sure what to search on. My 6768 has taken to spontaneously turning itself off. Is this something I can fix?

Carl,
You probably already checked the following:
Make sure the power cord is seated at both ends
Make sure the bulb vent cover is seated
Check for any dust buildup on the vent covers
Make sure the fans are working
Good luck

After about 8000 hrs. the color wheel let loose on my HLR6168. My wife said there was a loud pop and the color changed to blue only. There is no picture now and there is loud groaning coming from the rear of the set.
I have an extended warrantee with Repairmaster (Warrentech). They were very cooperative when I called and agreed to fix the set at no additional cost to me. The only thing, that I didn’t like, is the repair shop they chose will only do the repair at their facility. The shop is about 50 miles away and they will provide the transportation.
I’ll miss the 61 inch screen for a while.

I tried searching the thread, but wasn't sure what to search on. My 6768 has taken to spontaneously turning itself off. Is this something I can fix?

Does it turn off 'off' (red standby light comes on) or does the picture just turn off but you can hear the color wheel and the fan still running until you turn it off ?

Makes a big difference.

So I've had the dreaded 3 lights blink on the front of my HLR-6168 a few days ago.

After googling around most people mentioned that it's just the lamp, replace it and the problem should go away. I ordered a new lamp right away.

Some other information noted that you can sometimes get around the problem by re-seating the lamp. In my case, re-seating did work. Once it came on as long as the set had been used recently it would turn on right away. However if the TV set over night or for several hours (it had cooled all the way down). It wouldn't come on. Over the next few days it became harder to get it to come on by re-seating the lamp.

My new bulb came and did not fix the issue. However re-seating the lamp hard does temporarily get the TV to turn on.

I noticed from that when the issue is occuring that the flame on the ballast wasn't lighting like it should, but the ballast appears to click constantly.

I just got done pulling the ballast and spent about an hour going over it. I cleaned it with electrosolve and inspected it. I found one suspect joint, and ran solder from it to the next circuit bypassing the PCB. I then plugged it in and reconnected it and voila the TV came on. I hope it turns on in the morning and I can save either buying a new board or ballast.

After about 8000 hrs. the color wheel let loose on my HLR6168. My wife said there was a loud pop and the color changed to blue only. There is no picture now and there is loud groaning coming from the rear of the set.
I have an extended warrantee with Repairmaster (Warrentech). They were very cooperative when I called and agreed to fix the set at no additional cost to me. The only thing, that I didn’t like, is the repair shop they chose will only do the repair at their facility. The shop is about 50 miles away and they will provide the transportation.
I’ll miss the 61 inch screen for a while.

I replaced the color wheel on my 6168 on my kitchen table. Took about an hour, 2 attempts and about $150.

Does it turn off 'off' (red standby light comes on) or does the picture just turn off but you can hear the color wheel and the fan still running until you turn it off ?

Makes a big difference.

Shuts down completely.

Shuts down completely.

Here's a long thread with several suggestions:

http://fixyourdlp.com/blog/2008/03/05/samsung-dlp-keeps-turning-off/#comments

One that hasn't been mentioned, but has happened to me in the past is to place a piece of masking tape over the IR receiver, and if it stays on indefinitely your neighbor's remote across the street isn't shutting it off. :D

So I've had the dreaded 3 lights blink on the front of my HLR-6168 a few days ago. ...

I just got done pulling the ballast and spent about an hour going over it. I cleaned it with electrosolve and inspected it. I found one suspect joint, and ran solder from it to the next circuit bypassing the PCB. I then plugged it in and reconnected it and voila the TV came on. I hope it turns on in the morning and I can save either buying a new board or ballast.

Well that didn't work. I went ahead an pulled the light engine and replaced the color wheel (I had color wheel whine for about 1 year and had ordered one on to have it on standby). This is a long shot that the clicking isn't coming from the ballast, but from the motor on color wheel, and the inability to turn the motor is keeping the ballast from firing. Kinda makes sense in a way because without the wheel turning you'd probably end up burning a hole through or discoloring the wheel.

It turned on, but now I have to let it set for a few hours to see if it's the real source problem.

I have some words of advice for those changing your color wheel. If you're using an air duster to blow it out (the little cardboard dust from shipping), blow away from the wheel first before pointing it at the wheel! I got a little bit of the fluid from the duster on the wheel and it discolored a tiny portion.

I'm also glad the wheels ship with connectors, because I totally destroyed the white, white, blue wire connector trying to free it from the pcb behind the optics. :eek:

After about 8000 hrs. the color wheel let loose on my HLR6168. My wife said there was a loud pop and the color changed to blue only. There is no picture now and there is loud groaning coming from the rear of the set.


Yeah, I had the 'loud bang' problem initially, but it didn't destroy the wheel, just left it 'whining'. After the initial bang (my wife had the foresight to shut it off until I got home), I took out the color wheel and lo and behold in the bottom of the well was a large chunk of something plastic looking. I took out the chunk and reseated the wheel and torqued the screws good. It was still working when I took it out.

After replacing the wheel this weekend, and examining it and the replacement, seems the factory 'balances' the wheel with globs of glue on the back end of the wheel rim, just like a car. The piece I had took out initially was one of these globs of glue. The ejection/bang had left large scratches across the wheel.

The old wheel had huge globs, the new one only had tiny little globs, of a different color (clear vs. brown although this could be due to heat discoloration). Then again I could be totally wrong and it's just sloppy assembly of a part. :(

Here's a long thread with several suggestions:

http://fixyourdlp.com/blog/2008/03/05/samsung-dlp-keeps-turning-off/#comments

One that hasn't been mentioned, but has happened to me in the past is to place a piece of masking tape over the IR receiver, and if it stays on indefinitely your neighbor's remote across the street isn't shutting it off. :D

Thanks, I'll check it out.

Here's a long thread with several suggestions:

http://fixyourdlp.com/blog/2008/03/05/samsung-dlp-keeps-turning-off/#comments

One that hasn't been mentioned, but has happened to me in the past is to place a piece of masking tape over the IR receiver, and if it stays on indefinitely your neighbor's remote across the street isn't shutting it off. :D

After reading the fixes, I see that I've got the back pretty close to the wall - I moved it out to give it some breathing room. I'm hoping that's all it is.

I had a 1 to 2 inch band on the left side of the screen. Not to noticeable, so I was living with it. It has mysteriously fixed itself.

Darn, I was hoping I'd have to buy a new display.

Tyrod & Darkmark,
If the color wheel fails again after the warrantee I’ll try and fix it myself. If I had to pay someone to fix it I was quoted $216 for the initial visit and $275 an hour plus parts. I wouldn’t recommend one of these sets for anyone that isn’t mechanically inclined or isn’t willing to purchase an extended warrantee.

... and $275 an hour ...:eek: Is this guy a lawyer moonlighting as a TV service person?

This is a long shot that the clicking isn't coming from the ballast, but from the motor on color wheel, and the inability to turn the motor is keeping the ballast from firing. Kinda makes sense in a way because without the wheel turning you'd probably end up burning a hole through or discoloring the wheel.

Well slap me silly, THAT WAS IT. Turned it on this morning after being off all night and worked like a dream. Seems like the color wheel motor burning out caused the three light blinking on the front. Go figure. You would think they could blink a different code on the front of the TV for that failure, it's not like the electronics doesn't know there's no RPMs in the wheel :mad:. The service manual has you honing in on the bulb/ballast/DMD board for 3 lights blinking on the front exclusively.

So for posterity, if you're not getting fire in the ballast, and no lamp light, plus you hear clicking, check the color wheel! Hopefully this will help some forum searches in the future (and yes, that's even if you have three solid green lights on the analog board).

Darn, I was hoping I'd have to buy a new display.

I can't say that the current string of failures didn't have me looking on the 'ol intertubes for a new set. I just couldn't find an LCD that was over 60", 120Hz, with LED backlighting. If I did, I probably wouldn't have felt compelled to keep fixing the set.

Tyrod & Darkmark,
If the color wheel fails again after the warrantee I’ll try and fix it myself. If I had to pay someone to fix it I was quoted $216 for the initial visit and $275 an hour plus parts. I wouldn’t recommend one of these sets for anyone that isn’t mechanically inclined or isn’t willing to purchase an extended warrantee.

Well I know what to do if I find myself out of a job and can't find anything in my current line of work! :D

I think the color wheel cost me a little over a $100.00 (I don't quite remember it was over a year ago). The nice thing about the sets is that they are completely modular and all the parts just kind of slide out and you can set them on a clean workspace and work on them out in the open. A world of difference from trying to fix CRTs with impossible to reach screws holding down the PCB or power supply.

On the HLR, You disconnect the power supply and the processing board, then there are a couple of cords, connections, and brackets you have to gently nudge out of the way to slide the light engine out but that's it. It feels like with a little bit more design Samsung could have made the DLPs a completely tool-less chassis.

Tyrod & Darkmark,
If the color wheel fails again after the warrantee I’ll try and fix it myself. If I had to pay someone to fix it I was quoted $216 for the initial visit and $275 an hour plus parts. I wouldn’t recommend one of these sets for anyone that isn’t mechanically inclined or isn’t willing to purchase an extended warrantee.

Seach through this thread, I wrote a procedure. I used to have good pics but my picture server service kicked me off for having naked pictures of animals. Anyway, the post's I wrote had some small locally hosted pics.

Tyrod, Thanks for the procedure but as I stated earlier I’m covered under an extended warrantee. The shop that quoted the outrageous fees is doing the work under my RepairMaster warrantee. I look forward to seeing what they charge RepairMaster.

Samsung Ln46a650 46 HDTV

* Full 1080p HD (Learn more)
* Automotion Plus 120Hz image interpolation technology provides smoother motion (Learn more)
* 178-degree viewing angle from all four axes with Super Patterned Vertical Alignment (Learn more)
* Better clear panel technology for deeper blacks and more vibrant colors (Learn more)
* Hidden speakers with SRS TruSurround XT audio (Learn more)
* Cold Cathode Flourescent Lamp (CCFL) and Wide Color Enhancer technology offer a wider color range (Learn more)
* Picture-in-Picture (PIP) enables convenient simultaneous viewing of TV programs and video or PC sources
* V-Chip system1 allows blocking of rated TV and movie programs determined by the parent to contain objectionable content.
* Trilingual on-screen displays in English, Spanish or French.
* Variable sleep timer to turn the TV off in varying time intervals.
* Auto wall mount compatible: 3-dimensional operation via TV's remote control; no external IR receiver required.
* Swivel stand included
* 1 year parts and 1 year labor warranty (90 days parts and labor for commercial use), with in-home service, backed by Samsung toll-free support.

Samsung Ln46a650 46 HDTV

* Full 1080p HD (Learn more)
* Automotion Plus 120Hz image interpolation technology provides smoother motion (Learn more)
* 178-degree viewing angle from all four axes with Super Patterned Vertical Alignment (Learn more)
* Better clear panel technology for deeper blacks and more vibrant colors (Learn more)
* Hidden speakers with SRS TruSurround XT audio (Learn more)
* Cold Cathode Flourescent Lamp (CCFL) and Wide Color Enhancer technology offer a wider color range (Learn more)
* Picture-in-Picture (PIP) enables convenient simultaneous viewing of TV programs and video or PC sources
* V-Chip system1 allows blocking of rated TV and movie programs determined by the parent to contain objectionable content.
* Trilingual on-screen displays in English, Spanish or French.
* Variable sleep timer to turn the TV off in varying time intervals.
* Auto wall mount compatible: 3-dimensional operation via TV's remote control; no external IR receiver required.
* Swivel stand included
* 1 year parts and 1 year labor warranty (90 days parts and labor for commercial use), with in-home service, backed by Samsung toll-free support.


????????

Well, DMD board failed, Samsung ECR refused to compensate, and I am done with Samsung for the rest of my life. I have never been ripped off this badly in my life.

Well.

A week or so after speaking with ECR, I got a call from a Samsung rep and I was told that instead of splitting the cost of the $750 repair with me (which I had asked for) they would send me a brand new DLP for $350. Needless to say, I am thrilled.

I decided to spend $650 and get a 46" LCD instead as I'm wary of dealing with more DLP issues in the future. But now instead of being an enemy of Samsung for the rest of my life I am a loyal customer. Now that's great customer service.

Doom, So how did you convince them to do anything? Seems like they are being very good about this problem. Just wondering if it's a silent recall kind of like the light tunnel? Any insight into your excellent outcome would be appreciated.

Doom, So how did you convince them to do anything? Seems like they are being very good about this problem. Just wondering if it's a silent recall kind of like the light tunnel? Any insight into your excellent outcome would be appreciated.

Nothing special at all, just explained the problem and calmly reasoned that I shouldn't have to pay for another light engine after just a year. At first, like I said, ECR said they couldn't do anything, and at that point I didn't blow up, I just said that I would spend the rest of my life avoiding Samsung products. I would suppose that if I'd gotten nasty at that point they just wouldn't have referred it out to whomever approved my exchange.

As you said, maybe it is sort of a recall. They probably feel like it's worth it to them to make it right on these sets to save their name's reputation.

I see that version 1.6 of the firmware is available for download.

I see that version 1.6 of the firmware is available for download.


For which Model? Nothing on the Samsung Download Site for the HL-R6178.

For which Model? Nothing on the Samsung Download Site for the HL-R6178.

Whoops, wrong subject.:confused:

Does anyone know which parameters in the service menu control RGBLowEnd and RGBHighEnd? Does anyone have any documentation on what all the parameters are in the service menu? Has anyone attempted to calibrate the grayscale to D65 on an HLR?

Does anyone know which parameters in the service menu control RGBLowEnd and RGBHighEnd? DNie menu: RGBLowEnd = WB_Red_B_Coeff, WB_GRN_B_Coeff & WB_BLU_B_Coeff. RGBHighEnd = WB_Red_C_Coeff, WB_GRN_C_Coeff & WB_BLU_C_Coeff.

Does anyone have any documentation on what all the parameters are in the service menu?I have not seen any explanatory documentation for menu items -- just the descriptive (for the most part, useless) phrases given in the service manual.

Has anyone attempted to calibrate the grayscale to D65 on an HLR?[/QUOTEYes. I have. It's very tricky and tedious for me due to the usual problems on the low end, the degreee to which the controls interact and what I would call non-linearity in the controls. As is always the case, 10 IRE varies all over the place but 30 to 100 IRE can usually be gotten to within a DE of 2-4 easily. The D65 white point is easily hit with 75 IRE windows.

Don,
Thanks I really appreciate the help. My TV is still out for service but I wanted to get a head start on recalibrating it. Thanks again

I have the Direct TV hr20-700 plugged into a pioneer elite 94-txh receiver via HDMI then out of the pioneer to a Samsung hlr-6178w via hdmi

The TV says no signal or weak signal. If I disconnect the HDMI cable going to the TV, the screen changes to "check plug." So the TV knows it has an hdmi plug and it knows which input on the back of the TV I am using.

The sound plays out of the receiver and the receiver shows the "HDMI" lit up, so the receiver is having no problems with this signal.

HAS ANYBODT been able to get this particular model TV to recognize the HDMI signal coming from a receiver??

If I plug an HD DVD player or the Direct TV receiver directly into the tv =I have no problems, but it defeates the purpose of having th receiver.

ANY help woul dbe greatly appreciated.

Well, I may end up replacing my display after all. The darken band on the left side of the screen has reappeared and is now 5-6 inches wide. Rather annoying. Anyone got a clue what this could be and how to fix it. I cringe at calling a repair service.

Well, I may end up replacing my display after all. The darken band on the left side of the screen has reappeared and is now 5-6 inches wide. Rather annoying. Anyone got a clue what this could be and how to fix it. I cringe at calling a repair service.

Is this the light tunnel collapse addressed in earlier posts? My light tunnel collapsed and they had to replace the entire light engine.

Carl, Samsung is now repairing the light tunnel collapse problem for free. Call Samsung directly. You can get more information from this thread.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=758625&pp=30

Is this the light tunnel collapse addressed in earlier posts? My light tunnel collapsed and they had to replace the entire light engine.
Carl, Samsung is now repairing the light tunnel collapse problem for free. Call Samsung directly. You can get more information from this thread.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=758625&pp=30

Yep, that's exactly what I'm seeing. And, they're replacing the light engine for free. Thanks guys!

Hey folks, my HL-R6768W, while luckily avoiding the infamous light tunnel problem has decided to swiss-cheese its color wheel -- TV was fine..whirrrRRBANG! and the image turned into some flickering sepia-colored appearance before I shut things down. Now it refuses to boot as it fails the color wheel spin-up procedure, it can be heard whirring out of balance.

I have seen color wheel DIY replacement notes elsewhere for the L3 chassis, does a similar thing exist for the L6 chassis? I'd like to know I am pulling the engine without goofing up optics or light baffles. Do any notes exist here or elsewhere? Thanks in advance -- Crow.

/**/

Here is a link for the HLR 67 series, maybe it will help you:

http://mistermarbles.blogspot.com/2008/04/replacing-color-wheel-for-samsung-hl.html

Here is a link for the HLR 67 series, maybe it will help you:

http://mistermarbles.blogspot.com/2008/04/replacing-color-wheel-for-samsung-hl.html

The description is good, but the pictures suck. It's not really too tough of a job. On a scale of 1 - 10, I'd say it was a 6. You don't really need the manual. I wrote a description and added some pics somewhere in this or the other HLR thread.

Thanks, Tyrod. A couple of pictures was all it took. Removed the color wheel assembly, and sure enough almost 50% of it exists as colorful glitter on the floor of the color wheel cavity. Two questions: does the replacement color wheel come with a new gasket set, and is the part number stamped on the housing the unit's part number, or is it just the part number for the frame? According to searches, the part number I need is BP96-01103A, but this housing has BP61-01024A stamped on it. Thanks, Crow.

p.s., the 'captive lock' connector the white-white-blue cable connects to on the DMD board is a lift-and-extract-pins type. The white plastic holder does not actually come all the way out. It is lifted up about 2mm, then each wire with a terminal crimped can be individually removed. Find these all the time in the keyboards I repair.

Thanks, Tyrod. A couple of pictures was all it took. Removed the color wheel assembly, and sure enough almost 50% of it exists as colorful glitter on the floor of the color wheel cavity. Two questions: does the replacement color wheel come with a new gasket set, and is the part number stamped on the housing the unit's part number, or is it just the part number for the frame? According to searches, the part number I need is BP96-01103A, but this housing has BP61-01024A stamped on it. Thanks, Crow.

p.s., the 'captive lock' connector the white-white-blue cable connects to on the DMD board is a lift-and-extract-pins type. The white plastic holder does not actually come all the way out. It is lifted up about 2mm, then each wire with a terminal crimped can be individually removed. Find these all the time in the keyboards I repair.


Phew, It's been a while. IIRC, it didn't come with the one gasket you need. I think I reused the old one. AFAIK, the PN on the housing is for the housing subassembly only with the wheel having another. The complete housing/wheel assembly would have a different PN. My PNs agree with yours.

One bit of warning. The new part has a pin on the gasket surface where there should be a hole. Just use a pair of pliers to knock the pin off and a small twist drill in your fingers to make a slight depression in the new housing for the coorisponding pin in LE. Just compare the old vs new gasket surface and it will all become clear.

Got the replacement color wheel today. installed it, and everything is fine. Will wait for nightfall to check calibration, but it looks fine now. The new color wheel's housing was exactly the same as the old one--no alignment pin had to be removed. Thanks for the help! --Crow