Bump!

Can anyone please tell me what is wrong with my HLR-5668 DLP tv. This problem started a couple days ago. I have unplugged the TV from the power source for 24 hours without any improvement. What is the problem and is it a DIY. Thanks.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/49323162@N05/4668080018/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/49323162@N05/4667449065/

It looks like your dmd board may have gone out, tho with the big flash in the middle it's hard to say for sure. Try taking another pic without the flash and post it for a better reply.

It looks like your dmd board may have gone out, tho with the big flash in the middle it's hard to say for sure. Try taking another pic without the flash and post it for a better reply.

Thanks, I will take another picture and post shortly.

Can anyone please tell me what is wrong with my HLR-5668 DLP tv. This problem started a couple days ago. I have unplugged the TV from the power source for 24 hours without any improvement. What is the problem and is it a DIY. Thanks.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/49323162@N05/4668080018/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/49323162@N05/4667449065/

I have added couple more pictures because the first ones have a big flash in the middle.

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1307/4673003198_1f5ebf7e05_m.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4033/4673008430_e467df2452_m.jpg

Well now that doesn't look like classic dmd board problems which produce lines or patterns on the screen. I haven't seen that particular problem on a dlp so I can't offer any advice. Maybe someone else will check it out and be able to help.

I have added couple more pictures because the first ones have a big flash in the middle.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/49323162@N05/4673003198/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/49323162@N05/4673008430/

Does the on-screen menu (menu button on remote) display the same distortion? The on-screen menu is generated via the DMD board, so most likely it is not your DMD board, in the service menu there are test patterns, for the digital and DMD boards, In Standby mode, press "Mute", "1", "8", "2" and "Power “ DMD board test is under the DDP1011 -> TEST PATTERN , Press the right arrow key on remote to scan through the following screens:
Full Screen, WHITE, BLACK, RED, GREEN, BLUE, etc. until you get back to your initial input.
If the above screens do not appear, this is a DMD board error. Digital board test DNIe ->TEST PATTERN Press the right arrow key on remote to scan through the following screens: Full Screen, WHITE, BLACK, RED, GREEN, BLUE, etc. until you get back to your initial input.
Does this happen on all inputs? S-Video, Composite, HDMI, VGA, etc.

Thanks for your input. I believe the on-screen menu shows the same distortion. I am at work right now. I will perform the tests you suggested and post my results. Thanks again.

Does the on-screen menu (menu button on remote) display the same distortion? The on-screen menu is generated via the DMD board, so most likely it is not your DMD board, in the service menu there are test patterns, for the digital and DMD boards, In Standby mode, press "Mute", "1", "8", "2" and "Power “ DMD board test is under the DDP1011 -> TEST PATTERN , Press the right arrow key on remote to scan through the following screens:
Full Screen, WHITE, BLACK, RED, GREEN, BLUE, etc. until you get back to your initial input.
If the above screens do not appear, this is a DMD board error. Digital board test DNIe ->TEST PATTERN Press the right arrow key on remote to scan through the following screens: Full Screen, WHITE, BLACK, RED, GREEN, BLUE, etc. until you get back to your initial input.
Does this happen on all inputs? S-Video, Composite, HDMI, VGA, etc.

@Denbo_33,

I could not find a test pattern under DDP1011. Here are some screenshot of the DDP101:

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1298/4683276041_0c2a37b580_m.jpg
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1303/4683276051_94cdff1a3f_m.jpg

The DNIe test pattern has 25 test screens with #s and no names. I took a couple screenshots:

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1303/4683276051_94cdff1a3f_m.jpg
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1286/4683913272_ef3512640e_m.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4056/4683913270_f27f87e4ba_m.jpg
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1300/4683276071_9d3380fcc2_m.jpg



Does the on-screen menu (menu button on remote) display the same distortion? The on-screen menu is generated via the DMD board, so most likely it is not your DMD board, in the service menu there are test patterns, for the digital and DMD boards, In Standby mode, press "Mute", "1", "8", "2" and "Power “ DMD board test is under the DDP1011 -> TEST PATTERN , Press the right arrow key on remote to scan through the following screens:
Full Screen, WHITE, BLACK, RED, GREEN, BLUE, etc. until you get back to your initial input.
If the above screens do not appear, this is a DMD board error. Digital board test DNIe ->TEST PATTERN Press the right arrow key on remote to scan through the following screens: Full Screen, WHITE, BLACK, RED, GREEN, BLUE, etc. until you get back to your initial input.
Does this happen on all inputs? S-Video, Composite, HDMI, VGA, etc.

Hi guys, I've got a problem with my HLR5078W flickering. I bought this TV back in early 2006 and the flickering problem first surfaced about 4 months ago. Until this point, nothing in the set had ever been serviced or any parts replaced. I figured now (4 months ago) would be a good time to replace the lamp and doing so the problem disappeared, until a few weeks ago when it started up again. I have a video on youtube, but I can't post the link because of my post count, so I'll have to do it this way:

http www youtube com/watch?v=g1FGpHd1bp0

I left the set on and the flickering seemed to go away after about 30 minutes, but 5 minutes later it started again. My only solution has been to power it off and let it rest for about an hour. When powered back on the problem seems to go away until the next day.


Thanks!


* EDIT *

After researching the problem some more and going over various youtube videos, I decided to replace the color wheel. The process took a little less than an hour and the problem has not happened again.. Which was happening multiple times a day.

Hi all - I hope somebody can advise me with a problem I am having. This evening I was watching something on my HLR-6768W and all of a sudden I heard this loud "pop". At that point I will still getting a picture, but it was blurry and mostly black and white looking. I then turned off the TV and attempted to turn it back on, but no picture. The LED's on the front of the TV indicated that there was a lamp problem, so I proceeded to remove the lamp. However, now that I've removed it I am questioning whether or not this is really the culprit. First off, upon visual inspection I don't see anything wrong with the lamp - no cracks, shattered glass, etc. Secondly, since I still saw a picture after the "pop" that must mean the lamp was still functioning...right? And lastly, my understanding is that in most, if not all cases you'll know when a lamp is about to go bad prior to it actually failing. In my case everything was operating at 100% and I didn't notice any picture fading or dimming before this occurred.

Based on the above, I am now suspecting that it might be the color wheel or the ballast. Any thoughts or ideas about how to best isolate the problem?

Bob

Look inside the tv, behind the bulb housing, and you can see the color wheel. It sounds like the color wheel broke apart and if you can see it you can tell for sure. Pieces of the glass will be on the bottom of the tv housing or some shards will be missing from the wheel itself.

Okay, I took out the bulb housing again and took a peek behind it. But I don't see anything resembling pieces of glass laying around. I'm also not sure where the color wheel is located exactly....maybe that's the problem. Is it located in the area where the bulb would be directly pointing towards? I see a small "opening" there, but no sign of any damage at all.

Every indication seems like it is the color wheel, though. Someone else posted a Youtube video showing the sounds his TV was making while trying to power up before he replace a faulty color wheel...those symptoms are identical to mine. Also, as I said earlier when the "pop" occurred I was still getting a fuzzy black and white picture until I shut the set off...it couldn't have been the bulb then, right?

I think it's the color wheel.

Check the link below. It's a detailed guide to replacing a color wheel in an HLR and you should be able to find the path to find the color wheel in the instructions:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1050735

Thanks for the link. I found some similar instructional guides as well as YouTube videos showing the process, but the pictures on your link are the most detailed. I tried to remove the old color wheel today, but ran into a roadblock and so I've given up for now. I had all the necessary screws and connectors unplugged, but for some reason or another I couldn't pull out the LE assembly...it certainly wouldn't slide out easily and I was afraid of breaking something if I were to pull on it too hard.

I think I may end up just calling a service tech to replace it for me. Also, since it seems like broken color wheels also result in other issues with alignment and/or the light tunnel, I'm just not feeling too comfortable dealing with them all by myself.

Thanks for your input. I believe the on-screen menu shows the same distortion. I am at work right now. I will perform the tests you suggested and post my results. Thanks again.

Maybe it is your source or and input problem. Check all inputs, with a different source.


If the on-screen menu has the same distortion as the source your watching this points to the DMD board, or color wheel or power supply. If is not could be the digital board,

Did all the tests have good color? Do not remember how many tests in each group. Each test should have a different color.

Has anyone replaced just the 'lamp' itself w/o replacing the whole assembly? Please add to this thread;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1256432

I think you can add me to the dead color wheel camp. Was watching this weekend when all of a sudden it shifted to a purple tinged black and white picture, regardless of input.

Turned the tv off, and it won't come back on. I have the "roar" described above, and lights are flashing. Lamp is less than a year old, so doubt that's the issue.

Fortunately my tv is still covered under extended warranty, now I'm just waiting for repairmaster to get back to me with a local service shop.

I had the dreaded side shadow problem from the light tunnel repaired today under the class action suit against Samsung.
Unfortunately, I was getting tires on my van and was not home when the guy showed up.

My daughter said was here for about 30 minutes and all looks good. No charge best of all.

I bought a new lamp about a year ago and I have been waiting on the original to go, so I am debating on putting in the new lamp, but all looks good on the tv.

Too bad Samsung had to get sued before they took care of this problem.

Too bad Samsung had to get sued before they took care of this problem.I wonder if that was the reason Sammy dropped DLP's all together?? :confused:

Well I decided to switch out the lamp as well. The other lamps still worked, but it was starting to take a while to...... for lack of a better word, heat up. The TV was dark for 45 secs or so and gradually brightened up.

I put in a new lamp and WOW. The darn TV looks like a new tv again. Amazing what a difference the new lamp made.

I guess I can not talk my wife into a new TV now:)

I have an HL-R5078W that has been working for several years with a single-stream (S-card) Motorola CableCard. Now my cable provider is forcing me to get a Scientific Atlanta cable card and is only offering a multi-stream (M-card) CableCard. Has anyone had success getting this model to work with a Multi-stream CableCard? When I insert the M-card I get an error 161-1. I have tried numerous cards without success and Samsung is useless for support.
I just started to try this with my set and have the same issue. Is it endemic of this type of set?

I own a HL-R6178W and have just switched to using HDMI for my TV now that I'm using DirecTV. Before this I used cable over coax and the pass thru worked fine, but it doesn't work with HDMI. Is there any way to get the TV to convert and pass thru the digital audio? Maybe via the service menu somehow?

After almost five years, my light tunnel collapsed. I was expecting a hassle to get it replaced, but I must say, dealing with Samsung support was downright pleasant. They acknowledged the problem as soon as I described the symtoms, and immediately volunteered the information that they'd fix it for free even though my TV was out of warranty. The repairman showed up exactly when he said he would, and replaced it quickly. He also checked the health of my color wheel while he was in there.

We did have to wait a week for the part to come in, but the collapse wasn't so bad as to interfere with using the TV. All in all, I'm feeling better about Samsung.

I own a HL-R6178W and have just switched to using HDMI for my TV now that I'm using DirecTV. Before this I used cable over coax and the pass thru worked fine, but it doesn't work with HDMI. Is there any way to get the TV to convert and pass thru the digital audio? Maybe via the service menu somehow?

The only way to get surround is to run an optical cable directly from your sat. box into your receiver, bypassing the tv. And in case you start to get HDMI handshake issues, many people have used red/green/blue component into the tv from the sat box instead. As the signal maxs out at 1080i, component works as well as HDMI. If you do run the optical straight into your receiver, turn off the tv's sound.

I think you can add me to the dead color wheel camp. Was watching this weekend when all of a sudden it shifted to a purple tinged black and white picture, regardless of input.

Quick (and annoyed) update. It was the color wheel (bearings, not the wheel itself), and a month later, I'm still looking at another 2 weeks before it's fixed. :mad: The combination of a single local Repairmaster affiliated/certified DLP repair tech, Samsung shipping a broken color wheel, and now Samsung backordered on color wheels until 8/16. The latest delay led me to start disconnecting things from the DLP and moving them to the plasma upstairs just so I can watch some content from those devices.

I’ve been searching through the “Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLRxxx8W DLP Models” thread, and I’ve seen various similarities to various problems that I’m having with my Samsung HLR5678W. To start:

1) Over the past several months, I’ve had some infrequent situations where the set would not power-up and I had a high-pitched fan-like sound, cycling on-and-off for several minutes before the set finally turned-off. Like I said, it happens very rarely.

2) The set has been steadily getting worse in that the pictures are fairly dark and have distinct “shadows”, especially in darker scenes (both HDMI and other inputs). I do not notice the same shadows using menus, but they are not typically dark.

3) Pictures often have a “cartoon-like” appearance where subtle and smooth color changes (like faces) have distinct lines of coloration.

My set is out of warranty (even the extended one), as it was purchased in August 2006. I decided to try the cheap fixes first, so I replaced the bulb a few weeks ago. It’s certainly brighter, but the overall problems have remained.

Please let me know your opinions on what I should be working on next. Football is only weeks away and I need to get the set working again!!

"I’ve had some infrequent situations where the set would not power-up and I had a high-pitched fan-like sound" usually indicates a dying color wheel.

"I’ve had some infrequent situations where the set would not power-up and I had a high-pitched fan-like sound" usually indicates a dying color wheel.
Thanks for the insight - certainly makes sense to me. Would a color wheel problem also contribute to the cartoon-like appearance and shadow concerns?

A failing color wheel would affect all types of color display. Usually, if you remove the bulb and housing, you can see the color wheel behind the area. Possibly you can see some glass shards on the bottom of the cabinet.

There are many sites with color wheel replacement info. Do a search on this forum and you'll find some very good info here also.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=179014&d=1277525494

Similar to Fubdap... I'm experiencing issues, but instead of green vertical areas, I have red horizontal bands or strips or lines. See the area in the upper 3rd of the screen, covering the player's head. They seem to tear or streak off an image, and change locations as the shot changes during a show, game, etc. It started one day, and after the TV was on for a few minutes, it went away, but became more persistent, and is now happening full-time.

Does this seem like a DMB problem? If so, how costly is that repair?

I can confirm that the red lines do appear when the menu is selected.

This is the HLR 7178.

I have experienced the lightbox effect, had a bad color wheel and had the light engine swapped out. The TV is out of warranty. Samsung extended the warranty to change out the light box when the color wheel caused issues. I do not want to spend significant money on repairs; I'd prefer to buy a new TV if necessary, but from a brand that does not rhyme with Samsung.

The lamp on my HLR 5078W failed a couple of weeks ago. A little history:
I purchased the TV in 2005 and bought a 3 year extended warranty. In 2007, I had the light tunnel collapse, which was replaced under the extended warranty.
When the lamp failed a couple of weeks ago, I ordered a replacement from Samsung and installed it about 10 days ago.

Well, tonight, I heard a zapping type sound and initially, the picture became sort of bleached out looking. I turned the TV off and left it off for about 30 minutes. When I turned it back on, all 3 front panel lights flashed including the Lamp light and there was no picture.

So did I just get a bad replacement lamp, or do I have a different problem? I have emailed Samsung, but I thought I would check here for additional thoughts/recommendations.

we had the color wheel replaced on our HLR 5078W through best buy service warranty contract and noticed after replacement extreme amount of video noise on all inputs and the blacks have a light green color instead of black.any suggestions? avatar on blue ray looks terrible

A failing color wheel would affect all types of color display. Usually, if you remove the bulb and housing, you can see the color wheel behind the area. Possibly you can see some glass shards on the bottom of the cabinet.

There are many sites with color wheel replacement info. Do a search on this forum and you'll find some very good info here also.


Thanks to a lot of advice from the forum and some very detailed instructions, I was able to get in and replace my color wheel. It was a little bit tricky, but certainly do-able for most folks. Alas, no apparent damage to the old one (other than pulled-wiring from the removal). When I powered-up the television after the replacement, I had about an hour of good viewing before the dreaded shadows and horizontal lines returned. I've added a picture that hopefully demonstrates the fog-like shadow, as well as the color-banding and cartoon-like picture. I'm at a loss now - a new lamp and a new color wheel, and I'm still having troubles. Any suggestions?

from what i have learned so far after replacing color wheel if it doesn't look right you have to enter service menu.i havent done this myself so use caution.i got these instructions from googling my problem after color wheel replacement problems. BIG WARNING!!!!! on the instructions. They involve you going into the service menu. One wrong button push inside the service menu can ruin your tv. So if you decide to do these adjustments, you are completely on your own and any problems arising from the procedure are yours.

CCA adjustment: 1.Turn off the tv to standby mode. 2.Press "mute"-1-8-2-"power" buttons on the remote. 3. From the Factory Service Mode Menu choose OPTION. 4. Select DMD-DIGITAL, press enter or right arrow key. 5. Press enter or right arrow key, OK should come up. 6. exit Factory Mode. Check the picture quality.

Usually, the CCA adjustment fixes any problems with the color and the next adjustment isn't necessary.

Index Delay adjustment: 1. Turn off the tv and press the same keys to get into the service menu as above. 2. Select "Service" on the first display of the service mode menu. 3. Press the arrow up or arrow down button to move to Index Delay, press enter. 4. The Index Delay screen will show. It has a red bar on the bottom. 5. Press the left or right arrow buttons to adjust to the mean value. (I've never done this and am not sure what the mean value is, so try to find the best shade of red???) Exit out of service men

Thanks to a lot of advice from the forum and some very detailed instructions, I was able to get in and replace my color wheel. It was a little bit tricky, but certainly do-able for most folks. Alas, no apparent damage to the old one (other than pulled-wiring from the removal). When I powered-up the television after the replacement, I had about an hour of good viewing before the dreaded shadows and horizontal lines returned. I've added a picture that hopefully demonstrates the fog-like shadow, as well as the color-banding and cartoon-like picture. I'm at a loss now - a new lamp and a new color wheel, and I'm still having troubles. Any suggestions?

It seems our problems are similar, substituting your green bands for my red ones. I'm thinking I can cross off the color wheel and/or a new lamp, and assume this could be more major.

Hi so we just replaced the color wheel on our HLR-5668W and the color on the tv is great. However initially the picture was blurry. So we played with the lens focus and now the picture itself is clear. However the picture is sitting about an inch or two too high on the screen and is a little crooked.

We have gone into the service menu and tried to adjust via the vertical control but it will not allow the picture to go any lower. I think this still might be a lens issue but when trying to play around again with the lens nothing changed.

Any advice? If I'm not being clear it's because I really have no clue what I'm talking about and my boyfriend will never hurt his pride by asking others for help so I'm doing it for him.

Thanks.

Owners of these sets know that the only way to actually get 1080p is on the VGA input. The HDMI inputs are only 1080i.

Now that I have an HDMI receiver I am looking to route all HD input through the VGA input because the 1080i HDMI display quality irks me (when reading text, e.g. through PS3's menu) pixels jump and seem to malfunction, but on VGA (with my HTPC) everything is rock solid.

I've been trying with an HDFury3 and the PS3 but I can't get 1080p -> VGA syncing correctly. 720p is fine. Tried tweaking the HD Fury. Any ideas? Has anybody succeeded in doing this?

Hi so we just replaced the color wheel on our HLR-5668W and the color on the tv is great...

Any advice? If I'm not being clear it's because I really have no clue what I'm talking about and my boyfriend will never hurt his pride by asking others for help so I'm doing it for him.

Thanks.

This seems odd. I just replaced a color wheel and did not have to readjust either the focus or the alignment.

Nevertheless, it sounds as if you need to do a "tilt adjust," which involves physically repositioning the DMD board. See the attached pdf for a copy of the pertinent pages from the service manual.

I have also done this adjustment before. It is a real PITA that requires two people and preferably three small hands to keep everything set as you tighten the screws. Good luck.

Owners of these sets know that the only way to actually get 1080p is on the VGA input. The HDMI inputs are only 1080i.

...

I've been trying with an HDFury3 and the PS3 but I can't get 1080p -> VGA syncing correctly. 720p is fine. Tried tweaking the HD Fury. Any ideas? Has anybody succeeded in doing this?

You mention that HDMI inputs are only 1080i... but then you say 720p is fine. Well, I just hooked up a new Apple TV to my HL-R6768W, and both HDMI inputs give the same error messages: Format Not Supported, then No Signal or Weak Signal. Apple TV, of course, outputs only 720p. Is it the case that these Samsungs cannot accept 720p over HDMI? Has anybody managed to get Apple TV to feed one of these things?

You mention that HDMI inputs are only 1080i... but then you say 720p is fine. Well, I just hooked up a new Apple TV to my HL-R6768W, and both HDMI inputs give the same error messages: Format Not Supported, then No Signal or Weak Signal. Apple TV, of course, outputs only 720p. Is it the case that these Samsungs cannot accept 720p over HDMI? Has anybody managed to get Apple TV to feed one of these things?

Well, first, yes, what I meant is that 1080i was the best one could get out of them, that you couldn't get 1080p on the HDMI inputs.

On my set, I tried my new ATV2 and it worked fine.

I haven't had any luck with 1080p HDMI->VGA adapters. They work with other sets but the Samsung complains about unusable signals, so something must be slightly off with the timing the Sammy will accept.

On my set, I tried my new ATV2 and it worked fine.


Samsung Technical Support confirmed that my model year HLR-6768W supports 1080i only on HDMI. So I purchased an HDfury2 and fed it into a component input, which does accept Apple TV 720p. After tweaking brightness, contrast, and color in the service and user menus, it all seems to work well (despite paying nearly twice the price of aTV for HDfury2). Learning the aTV IR codes with an RTI IR-PRO was tricky, also. Apple never seems to make it easy, do they?

First I don't believe this message are is still going. WOW!

I have a HLR5078WX and recently I notice that my cable provider COX menus changed. No problem there but when I switch channels slowly every few channels I get a delay and a black screen then the picture is half way up the screen then a moment later everything is proper position.
I remember way back someone was talking about a shade inside that is like a trap door that opens and closes when changing channels.
Does this sound right? Well it seems the trap door may have some dust and is hanging once in awhile. Other than this issue everything is still great picture and sound.

Any suggestions or directions to clean? Is it worht the effort ?

Thanks everyone.

My HL-R5078W failed for the fourth time in 5 years. All had different symptoms (picture breaking up and freezing, large shadow in the upper right corner, horrible grinding noise, and now greenish shadow and poor picture), but the repair was the same... replace the light engine. The previous three repairs were all covered by an extended warranty. This last one would not be. No point shelling out US $750 for a new light engine replacement every 15 months on average when you can get a very good 50" Plasma for $1050 or so.

It seems like large screen DLP was a technology that filled a gap until other technologies caught up in size and price. This was supposed our TV for the next 10 years or so, that is how I justified its high price, but it was not to be.

Every manufacturer has had its issues, Samsung has been very innovative, but its quality has been inconsistent and it obviously dropped the ball with these units.

My HL-R5078W failed for the fourth time in 5 years. All had different symptoms (picture breaking up and freezing, large shadow in the upper right corner, horrible grinding noise, and now greenish shadow and poor picture), but the repair was the same... replace the light engine. The previous three repairs were all covered by an extended warranty. This last one would not be. No point shelling out US $750 for a new light engine replacement every 15 months on average when you can get a very good 50" Plasma for $1050 or so.

It seems like large screen DLP was a technology that filled a gap until other technologies caught up in size and price. This was supposed our TV for the next 10 years or so, that is how I justified its high price, but it was not to be.

Every manufacturer has had its issues, Samsung has been very innovative, but its quality has been inconsistent and it obviously dropped the ball with these units.


I only had 2 light engines over the past 5 years 2 months of ownership. I also thought this set would last longer but as you said technology is speeding ahead and DLP is old school. Actually my issue I had above was a cable box and not the TV. I do not plan on spending as much money on a set because 3-4 years things will be changing anyway.

Long live the Samsung DLP HL-RXX78W

HLR4266W

Folks:

I've extensively perused this and other forums and feel a "kinship" with others who spent a good deal of money on a Samsung DLP in the early years (2006 - 8025 hours on the lamp now) only to have it go south in a relatively short period of time.

What I can't figure out right now, based on what I've seen here and elsewhere is if my problem is caused by the color wheel (it isn't making any noise) or if it is the LE failing. But, banging on the base of the TV with my open hand corrects the problem for at least a while, sometimes for days or even weeks but now often for only a few hours at best. It seems to be getting progressively worse.

I found this video at youtube from somone else that is the exact same model, and exact same problem, I'm having. No, been having on and off for about 18 months, along with the "on and off" problem that cleaning has not seemed to help, nor has the door latch repair. But the "on and off" is so intermittent as to have us ignoring it most of the time.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/yBD2tmLvUAD-kQtZLwXedS0txxSA6mfnejew7diRCMc

Those of you with experience, please check out the video and opine as to whether this is the color wheel not keeping up to speed or the LE.

If it is the former, then I'll attempt the replacement. If it is the later, is there anyone who wants a good deal on a four your old, 42" Samsung DLP? ;-]

Tom H,
Antioch CA

Ooops! Sorry! Wrong thread.

I've copied my post over to the 2005 Samsung DLP thread.

Hey, I'm new. And, all these Samsung DLP threads look pretty much the same anyway. ;-)

Tom H.
Antioch, CA

HLR4266W
If it is the later, is there anyone who wants a good deal on a four your old, 42" Samsung DLP? ;-]

Tom H,
Antioch CA

Let me know how this part works out for you! I've had LE and 'DMD board' issues with my HLR-7178. It's no longer under warranty, and I don't want to keep throwing good $ after a bad (?) TV...

When the repair service quoted repairs costing close to $700, I went ahead and purchased a new plasma. I won't get into details, but Life is Good now, if you know what I mean...

I've listed the Samsung on Craigslist, to no avail. I've been up front and honest about necessary repairs, and am asking very little for it.

Question to you all... is it even worth pursuing trying to sell this TV? Are there any other outlets for being rid of the TV?

Let me know how this part works out for you! I've had LE and 'DMD board' issues with my HLR-7178. It's no longer under warranty, and I don't want to keep throwing good $ after a bad (?) TV...

When the repair service quoted repairs costing close to $700, I went ahead and purchased a new plasma. I won't get into details, but Life is Good now, if you know what I mean...

I've listed the Samsung on Craigslist, to no avail. I've been up front and honest about necessary repairs, and am asking very little for it.

Question to you all... is it even worth pursuing trying to sell this TV? Are there any other outlets for being rid of the TV?

You might try posting it in the Buy/Sell forum here at AVSFORUM. Figure out what the value of the set in good condition. Deduct repair costs. Then list it for about half the remainder.

Tyrod:

Sound advice except................................................

...............using this math, I'd say we'd have to pay someone to take them off of our hands. ;-)

Sadly, depending on where one lives in CA, you might have to do that anyway. We have laws you know?

TomH
Antioch, CA

Let me know how this part works out for you! I've had LE and 'DMD board' issues with my HLR-7178. It's no longer under warranty, and I don't want to keep throwing good $ after a bad (?) TV...

When the repair service quoted repairs costing close to $700, I went ahead and purchased a new plasma. I won't get into details, but Life is Good now, if you know what I mean...

I've listed the Samsung on Craigslist, to no avail. I've been up front and honest about necessary repairs, and am asking very little for it.

Question to you all... is it even worth pursuing trying to sell this TV? Are there any other outlets for being rid of the TV?

That's a premium sized tv, and will be for a while. Hard to believe it won't sell for $150-200. Maybe you are just in a small market.

Your last resort I guess would be the Craigslist free section where it will go very fast.

I'm having a strange problem with my set. Sometimes when I turn it off, it then turns back on. This happen 3 -4 times a month. At first I thought it was because people weren't turning off the set correctly, but then it happened to me. Any ideas?

I'm having a strange problem with my set. Sometimes when I turn it off, it then turns back on. This happen 3 -4 times a month. At first I thought it was because people weren't turning off the set correctly, but then it happened to me. Any ideas?

Your lamp is dying (or possibly overheating). It's likely at the end of its life. It will happen more and more often, until it gets to the point where it will happen every few minutes and sometimes refuse to come back at all.

Buy a new lamp (it's easy to change yourself, don't bother with a service visit).

I put in a new lamp around Nov, so maybe it's over heating. Sometimes when the set is turned off, I hear a loud click. Maybe that has something to do with it too?

Had a huge scare yesterday morning. I went to turn on my 5 year and 4 months old Sammy HLR6178W and heard this horrible CRACK! It was as if someone was snapping a piece of plastic.

Anyways the TV would not turn on and I got the flashing LAMP/TIMER/STANDBY situation. I had thought the worst that my colour wheel snapped. Anyway went to work that day thinking the worst and how much it was going to cost. I even had some thougthts of what I would buy to replace my Sammy. I had visions of the Panasonic 65" VT3D set.

The owners manual told me that the lamp needed to be replaced. I had purchased a replacement lamp 4 years ago and thought to myself that couldn't be the problem. What was that cracking sound then?

Well after removing the old lamp which was a breeze, I noticed that the 2 wires that come together inside the glass tube were now exposed. The tube had cracked at the very top and I could see the cracked glass tube shards inside the lamp.

Put the new lamp in and I'm happy to report all is good again with my 61" DLP. The picture is so bright now. Looks like I have a brand new tv.

Was glad to see that my original lamp lasted 5 years and 4 months before replacing. Now the question is should I buy another replacement lamp for when it goes the next time or just buy a new plasma when it dies?

Oh well, I hope I have a long time to think about it.



BTW....does anyone know how to get into the service menu? I want to see how many hours I got on my original bulb. What does 5 years and 4 months translate into hours?

Yikes ... everyone calm down. I'm not a moderator so I can not change the thread in any way (except my own POSTS). Even if I was, I wouldn't because no one has done anything wrong. I set the thread up because I expected some people to have their sets (5078's) by this weekend. Certainly dozens of people will be receiving their TV's over the next week. A little patience, please.

I also thought that people would possibly ask setup questions (like FLApilot's), compare design and setup ideas (schaffer970's custom stand), and finalize our open list of issues. One area I was hoping to write a post on myself was the method we could use to test and report performance with gaming systems. This is always confusing, usually for weeks, and I believe that we have learned enough to do a better job this time around.

Anyway, let's not pick on each other ... it really take the fun out of the hobby.

agree!! with this comment

I have a Samsung HL-R5078W that is only used to watch movies and play video games. It was a floor model, so I assume it got used extensively for its first year of life. I never watch TV, so since I've had it, it sees about 300-400 hours of service a year, tops. The clarity of the picture still looks fabulous. It has a slight shadow on the left hand side of the screen, but I recently found out it's a warranty repair so Samsung is sending someone out to replace the light tunnel on Monday.

I was having issues with video processing delays on some games. But since I replaced my launch Xbox 360 with a Slim and switched to using an HDMI port, the processing delays have almost disappeared.

The one thing I don't like is that the darks are very, well... dark. Especially during the day when the sun is out. The room can get pretty bright, even with the blinds closed. It's hard to see details in shadows, and in some games I have to crank up the brightness setting in the games to make the game playable.

I watched the promo video for the sequel to Batman: Arkham Asylum on Xbox Live, and I could barely tell what was going on. I rented How to Train Your Dragon, and found myself having to watch it in the dead of night with all the lights turned off, or I couldn't make out the night scenes.

I considered it might be the lamp, but the brighter images seem fine. Any suggestions on how to keep the details in the darker areas?

I have a 5088 that I had ISF calibrated when I first bought the unit. It's been in storage for a year. I've hooked it up, and it still looks very good. Haven't had to replace anything yet, but I remember the UI/firmware having bugs. I received a class action law suit letter in the mail awhile ago regarding the unit.

I have a 2005 HLR5678 and it appears it needs a lamp. The timer, lamp, and standby/temp are all blinking. Its just when I do the lamp reset, the TV will work for a while. I have no other color issues or heard loud sounds or anything. Is this TV smart enough to know the lamp is going, or is there another issue? I'm well aware of the issues with this TV, as a friend had a 50 inch with all of the issues. Mine has been fine, I just don't want to buy a lamp if there is another issue and I'm prepared to make a clean break from DLP. But, if a $100 lamp will solve this, no reason to spend $1,500 buying a new TV.

Hi

I have Samsung HL-R5667 W rear projection TV. I had technician replaced the lamp a year ago. TV was working great. Tonight I heard a noise and the picture was not clear and the color became green and white. I shut the TV off. Tuned it ON again and there was no picture and no sound. Only thing I can hear is the loud buzzing sound. I tried several times shut it off and on. Unfortunately it does not work. Can anyone help?

Thank you.

Sounds like you may have lost the "color wheel". At least, those are the symptoms my set displayed when my color wheel broke.

The cost of a color wheel replacement could run from a few hundred up to $700 or $800.

Only choices are to have tech look at it, or junk it, your choice.

Am I better of to but the whole assemble for the color wheel for $150 or just the wheel for $90? I am assuming it is easier and safe to replace the assembly rather than fooling around with only the wheel. Any thoughts? Thanks.

Sorry, can't help you there. Depends upon whether you plan to do it yourself, or have a tech do it. If you do it yourself, how handy are you with this type of repair. Did the breaking of the wheel stress and/or cause damage to the drive? And finally, how difficult is it to mount a new wheel on the drive?

In my case, the tech replaced the assembly, but things were still not working, so he ordered up a rebuilt light engine.

Okay, it's been a long time since I've visited here and 403 pages??? WOW. Well, my Sammy HL-R6768 just bit the big one. DMD board / Engine failure went Kaput!!! Actually probably just the DMD board. But anyway. $895 + Tax is just not going to happen for my poor Sammy that has served me so well since Dec 05.

Anybody got any ideas? Cheap parts? Aquarium conversion plans? Anything? help..... :-)

Occasionally, if you check your local craigslist.org you will find people selling old DLPs for parts for not too much money. If you like to repair things, that might be a possibility. Otherwise, start reading over the LCD forum for suggestions for a new tv.

My 2006 Samsung 61" DLP has the original bulb with 9,100 hours on it. The other day the TV just turned off on its own. I went to turn it back on and it turned on and worked fine.

Then today it did it again, it just turned off on its own. I turned it back and it worked fine.

I installed a new bulb and it is working perfectly. Must have been the bulb going bad.

Am I better of to but the whole assemble for the color wheel for $150 or just the wheel for $90? I am assuming it is easier and safe to replace the assembly rather than fooling around with only the wheel. Any thoughts? Thanks.

I have a HL-R5078W, which uses the same color wheel. The part number is BP96-01103A. The drive, housing and the actual color wheel are all part of the same unit. Replacing the entire light engine is not cost effective considering the age of the TV. The color wheel replacement process on my TV was fairly straightforward, and I assume yours is similar.

You unscrew a bunch of screws on the back of the TV, remove some retaining screws and a metal clip, then disconnect some cables and pull out the light engine. Disconnect the wires on the wheel, unscrew some more screws and the color wheel unit lifts right out. The only gotcha is the ribbon cable. The connections are only on one side, so look at the connector to make sure you feed it into the slot the right way.

This video was a big help:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cx4pbNjsxfU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fGgpR-DEXY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CPJDLGTYR6A

I have strange color problems. After a few hours of searching through avs forums and not finding the exact same issue, I thought I give it a post and see if any of you can help...

Half of the screen has color that is off. See attached pictures. I would like to know:

Likely cause
Difficulty of DIY repair
Approximate cost of DIY repair


I'm hoping/assuming that there are other excellent posts in the forum that outline the individual steps of the DIY, since I have seen several so far.

Thanks for you help!

-Jon

My 2006 Samsung 61" DLP has the original bulb with 17,000 hours on it. The other day the TV just turned off on its own. I went to turn it back on and it turned on and worked fine.

Then today it did it again, it just turned off on its own. I turned it back and it worked fine.

Is this a symptom of a bulb going bad or something more serious?

I'm experiencing a similar intermittent problem where I'll turn the TV off, then it will turn back on. I vaguely recall hearing that it could be due to the heat inside of the TV.....

I have a HLS7178W and my HDMI inputs are not functioning due to I believe a power surge. I think I need to replace the rear board assembly. It attaches to the main board. Does any one know the part number of the rear board and where I might obtain one.

Occasionally, if you check your local craigslist.org you will find people selling old DLPs for parts for not too much money. If you like to repair things, that might be a possibility. Otherwise, start reading over the LCD forum for suggestions for a new tv.

Actually I'm looking into getting another Mitsu. I already have a WD-73732 and it rocks. So much more bang for the buck.

Hi All
Been here since late 2005 when I purchased a HL-R5078W set
The original lamp lasted 8,386 hours and was replaced with a Phillips bulb and it just went out last week with 8,211 hours.
I'm now on my 3rd bulb and the set is running just as it did new.
I did have a new color wheel and motherboard installed under warrantee in 2007 and has beed great since.

One thing you MUST do is keep vacume the dust out at least yearly because it will clog up the cooling fans and will let things over heat.

So I guess my 2005 set been running 691.5 days since Oct 2005.
Hopefully the set will keep going another 8,000 hrs of run time.


PS
Has anyone done any color adjustments? Like to see if I should change any or stay with my defaults
Thanks

Hello. I have an HL-R5078W. When I turn on the TV on it sounds like the coyote falling off the cliff on the Bugs Bunny show. (Just imagine a whistle that is higher then gets lower in pitch) Had a tech come out and look at a different Samsung, but also had him just listen to this one. He said what I thought. He thought it was the color wheel. Ordered a new one, stuck it in, and the same whine that I described earlier. So I unplugged the power, popped the light engine out, and removed the color wheel from the light engine. Plugged the TV back in, turned it on, and sure enough that sound is coming from the color wheel. It acts like it wants to turn, but just can't get going. This happened with my old and new color wheel. I used to be able to get the color wheel to spin, and then the lamp would fire after maybe 10 power on attempts, but now I think it's finally gone. So what board is connected to the color wheel? Is that the DMD board? If so, where can I find one at a decent price? My guess is that it's $200 or less. Sites that I go to (dunno if they are reputable) always say that it's sold out. I've checked Craigslist around here, but no hits for my model for parts. Thanks

Long story short....

Replaced color wheel (eventually) got TV to turn on again. The picture was shifted off the bottom by about an inch and to the right by an inch. After a few days of wrestling with the TV I was happy just to have it work.
A few hours later I wanted to fix the picture... I opened the TV up and was correcting the picture by trying to slightly align the silver board attached to the light engine assembly (not sure if it's name, and it's tedious work). This was working quite well until I may have moved something too much and half the screen froze. The other half is working perfectly.

Could some connection be out of alignment that I can correct?, or is the set finished? I am hoping the I could open it up and check some connections, but I would like to hear if anyone has had a similar issue that they have been able to resolve.

Thanks,
Paul.

Hi All
Been here since late 2005 when I purchased a HL-R5078W set
The original lamp lasted 8,386 hours and was replaced with a Phillips bulb and it just went out last week with 8,211 hours.
I'm now on my 3rd bulb and the set is running just as it did new.
I did have a new color wheel and motherboard installed under warrantee in 2007 and has beed great since.

One thing you MUST do is keep vacume the dust out at least yearly because it will clog up the cooling fans and will let things over heat.

So I guess my 2005 set been running 691.5 days since Oct 2005.
Hopefully the set will keep going another 8,000 hrs of run time.


PS
Has anyone done any color adjustments? Like to see if I should change any or stay with my defaults
Thanks

Here is a link to the calibration of a HL-S which is very simular. You can get as indepth as you want to, from using the 3 color adjustment bars in the users menu to diving into the hidden service menu. Just make sure you know what you are doing in there.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11301427&&#post11301427

Well' i might as well tel my story. I purchased the HLR6168w through the power-buy on this forum in 2005. I also purchased the 4 yr. extended warranty, but i'm not sure that was a smart idea. It only prolonged the agony with this tv! I had the LE replaced in 2009 under the extended warranty. A year later i needed a new color wheel, and re-calabration also under extended warranty. In August of last year my warranty ran out. My tv wouldn't power on several months ago. I called Samsung support, and they told me to put a new lamp in my set. I told them i replaced the lamp with a backup, but they wouldn't accept this unless it was a new lamp. So; i purchased a new lamp, but it didnn't solve the problem at all. I called the tech who had been servicing my set under warranty, and he diagnosed the problem as the color wheel not coming up to speed. After several weeks of waiting on back order, then receiving a broken color wheel, it finally came and the tech installed the color wheel. The set would power on, but the picture was all shadowed in red. After talking with someone on the phone the tech decided it must be the digital board. Another $200 after i had just purchased a new lamp, and $243 for installing a color wheel.
That is when i called Samsung and told them this is b#lls##t. Samsung said i would have to use one of their certified techs, and i would have to pay for the labor, and they would pay for the parts. Three weeks later, and another $175 charged to my credit card the tech shows up with the digital board and takes several hours to install it. After he has installed the board the remote will not turn on the tv. It just keeps cycling until you unplug it. He talks with Samsung techs, and they decide it is the DMD board. So the order goes in and the tech leaves again. About a week later i receive an email from Samsung support stating they cancelled the repair. I receive a phone call from Samsung offering an exchange or refund. I told them i want a refund, and they told me the msrp value on my set in 2005 was $2600 (the msrp was $4779). They said the set depreciated 20% a yr for the last 6 yrs. so i would not receive a refund. They said they would offer an exchange, but only valued 10% of the msrp price of $2600. So Samsung's price on a new un60d7000 is only $30 more than Amazon's price, but they will give me $260 for my HLR6168W. So anybody who is thinking about sticking money into these pieces of s### had better think twice. They aren't worth anything. Especially to Samsung.

Hello everyone, posting this question in this owner's thread since it hasn't gotten any response in the general forum. I will be eternally grateful if someone can help me ;)

My TV turns on and I can hear the sound, but the picture doesn't work. I only see a plain white image on the left half of the screen (the right half is completely black, see attachment). Note that the brightness of the white light seems to vary with what is supposed to be displayed (as the scene changes brightness, so does the light on the TV), so I think that indicates that something about the picture is making it to the screen.

I tried HDMI, VGA and component inputs, and the behavior is the same for all of them: I hear the sound but I don't see the picture.

I tried to press the TV menu button but nothing is displayed. I also tried going into the service menu but I don't know if that works, and I can't hear the chime (is that normal? I think I had it disabled in the TV menu prior to this problem, but I seem to recall the chime playing when entering the service menu).

I tried the AV out from the back of the TV, and that works fine: I can see the picture from what I'm inputting into the composite jacks.

When I say the left half of the screen is white, it's usually pure white. Sometimes, though, when I turn the TV on there are a couple dozen black pixels. The positiong and number of the pixels changes every time I turn the TV off and on.

Any ideas? My thought is it's a bad DMD board (the mirrors are stuck?), but I can't find a replacement part (BP94-02230A). But could it be a bad digital board instead? Or something else?

Any help would be really appreciated!

P.S. This is happening after the disaster described in the thread @ http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1359615. I managed to make some progress by replacing my Analog board and Detect board, before that the TV wouldn't turn on at all.

Well after 6 years my HLR5078W is giving me problems and I just wonder if I should fix it or not?
Symptoms
The reds seem to be blotchy on the cheeks of the people on the screen.
The solid one color backgrounds seem to be wavy and moving.

What do you think? The color wheel going bad?

Thanks

I wish there was a FAQ for this tv. I just got a HL-R6168W for $50. The symptoms are, the power switch is red when I plug it in, then the lamp light goes on when I turn it on, and there's no chime. It tries to "start" the tv/lamp 3 times and then all 3 lights flash. I tried to make sure the blue safety switch was deflected when I turned it on

The lamp and the ballast have been changed, but I can't rule out the possibility of this being done incorrectly somehow, or one of the replacement parts was bad.

I can hear what I think is the color wheel as well as the fan. I see I can get a digital board for $80 - $120 but I'd like to get the opinion of someone more experienced with this tv before I spend much money on parts, and it would be nice to be able to test the parts if possible.

edit: This page says the next part to check is the color wheel:
http://www.fixyourdlp.com/wizard/indicator-lights-samsung.html

Another page that has some general troubleshooting tips
http://www.fixyourdlp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=19

One post on the above forum that does have a lot of information:
http://www.fixyourdlp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4006#p4006

From the last 2 resources, unless either of the replacement parts are bad or put in wrong, it seems like it's most likely the DMD board, (whatever that is,) or possibly the connecting cables that go to the lamp.

Exploded Parts List:
http://www.orderpartstoday.com/shop/research_new/SMG/HLR5668WX_XAA.pdf

I wish there was a FAQ for this tv. I just got a HL-R6168W for $50. The symptoms are, the power switch is red when I plug it in, then the lamp light goes on when I turn it on, and there's no chime. It tries to "start" the tv/lamp 3 times and then all 3 lights flash. I tried to make sure the blue safety switch was deflected when I turned it on

The lamp and the ballast have been changed, but I can't rule out the possibility of this being done incorrectly somehow, or one of the replacement parts was bad.

I can hear what I think is the color wheel as well as the fan. I see I can get a digital board for $80 - $120 but I'd like to get the opinion of someone more experienced with this tv before I spend much money on parts, and it would be nice to be able to test the parts if possible.

If all 3 lights blink the problem is the lamp. I would open it back up and make sure it is seated correctly and the screw is tights. Also the back door has a safety switch that also must make contact when the panel is put back in place.

Try that
Also you should be able to find your manual online which has more information about the trouble lights and how they tell you what is wrong.
Here is a link to Samsungs page with that information.
LINK (http://ars.samsung.com/customer/usa/jsp/faqs/faqs_view_us.jsp?SITE_ID=1&PG_ID=3&PROD_SUB_ID=41&PROD_ID=153&AT_ID=12704)

Can some tell me what is the TV GUIDE ON SCREEN version number is 8 of 9.

Can some tell me what is the TV GUIDE ON SCREEN version number is 8 of 9. HLr-5078

Can some tell me what is the TV GUIDE ON SCREEN version number is 8 of 9. HLr-5078

I believe it is version 8. Whatever it is, it no longer works with the distribution of the data over digital channels. I suppose there may be some areas where the data is distributed over an analog cable channel. but not where I am located.

Hi

I have a HL-R6168 for many years and it has been trouble free for the most part. However recently I have this off color band on the left side of the screen. It has picture on it, but the colors are off. This happens on any input. It does not seem to be growing either. Any ideas what causes that? Bad color wheel?

Also has anyone figure out a remote code to switch directly to the RF antenna? Right now my Harmony One cycle thru "Input Select" to get to the RF antenna from HMDI, VGA and so forth.

Thanks in advance for your help.

As much as i have search everywhere, including almost two hrs of reading on this post alone no definitely answer is to be found. I have what I believe is False contouring problems on my HL-R6168W. The lamp has been replaced twice, and seems to be ok. I have no buzzing sound on the back of the TV. The only other problem this set has had for the past two years is that half of the screen goes black due to the heat. So I took care of that by placing a fan on the back of the TV when the set is on.
What could be a fix - if any- for this color false contouring problem. I can stand it, and I am starting to get terribly annoyed every time I watch TV. The only time you don't see these weird shadow and color shades is in very lighted images. Any dark ones just become so confusing I can really make up what is going on. Colors otherwise seem ok.

One last try.

I can not get my hlr-6178 to accept an hdmi input from 3 different pioneer elite receivers.

Someone on another thread guessed that it has to do with the fact that this tv can not accept a 1080p signal through HDMI.

Bottom line is I can not send my direct tv, hd dvd, or blu ray players signal thorugh my receiver using HDMI in, and then HDMI out to the tv. i get weak or no signal on the tv screen.

As soon as I use component cables going into the receiver and then out to the tv , I am good to go.

How many of you have used HDMI into ANY receiver, and then HDMI out into the TV and got a signal with thisTV.

This was the first generation Samsung 1080p set.

Do you know what the HDMI output of the receiver is? Is there a way to set it to 1080i?

As the other person said, the HLR6178 will NOT accept an HDMI 1080p signal.

Hi

I have a HL-R6168 for many years and it has been trouble free for the most part. However recently I have this off color band on the left side of the screen. It has picture on it, but the colors are off. This happens on any input. It does not seem to be growing either. Any ideas what causes that? Bad color wheel?

Also has anyone figure out a remote code to switch directly to the RF antenna? Right now my Harmony One cycle thru "Input Select" to get to the RF antenna from HMDI, VGA and so forth.

Thanks in advance for your help.

My HL-R6168 had this same problem, along with many others! The failure of the "light tunnel" was covered by a class action suit, and Samsung extended coverage for this condition for quite some time. Check out this huge thread for all the details: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=758625&highlight=samsung+side+shadow . However, that thread states that extended coverage may have expired in October 2011.

Good Luck!

Alan

Do you know what the HDMI output of the receiver is? Is there a way to set it to 1080i?

As the other person said, the HLR6178 will NOT accept an HDMI 1080p signal.


I have the Pioneer Elite sc-07 which just passes through the HDMI signal.

My direct tv dvr was set to output 1080i and I still could not get a signal using HDMI.

Very frustrating. I have a cheap Maxent plasma in my game room and I moved an elite 94 (previously hooked to the samsung with no HDMI signal accepted by the tv either, and as soon as I ran HDMI through the Pioneer and into the Maxent, presto, I get a picture no problem.

Finally after about 5 years did i solve the issue of this TV not accepting an HDMI signal from ANY of three pioneer Elite receivers I have had. I added an HDMI switcher, and presto, problem solved.

Im so pissed it took me this long to finally have someone give me my solution, and it seems as if this has been a fairly common solution to HDMi handshake issues.