The 1080p Samsung DLP’s are shipping from TV Authority and are in inventory at stores like Magnolia HiFi!!! :D :D :D It is time to start an owner’s thread so that owners of the HLRxx68W, HLRxx78W, and HLR5688W can discuss their experiences with these great TV’s.

1080p is a new format for Samsung DLP so there should be a lot to discuss. Post your thoughts on how the TV’s are performing, ask for technical help, share tweaks, and help us investigate and resolve any open issues that we still have about these TV. :) :) :)


Some other useful 2005 Samsung DLP threads:
General 2005 Samsung DLP --- HLRxxxxW Models: CLICK HERE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=493443)
720p 2005 Samsung DLP --- HLRxx67W Models: CLICK HERE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=537675)
720p 2005 Samsung DLP --- HLR5087W Model (Pedestal Model): CLICK HERE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=543286&highlight=pedistal)

*** 1080P Models (1920x1080 Screen Resolution) ***
=================================

There will be TWO cosmetic versions of the tabletop models. One version, the 78 series, will have a black lacquer bezel and will be sold by higher-end retailers and custom installers. The other version, the 68 series, will have a floating screen design and is believed to be targeted at larger chain stores like BestBuy. The internals of both lines are equivalent, the case (and offered screen sizes) is the only difference. In fact, Samsung has lead us to believe that the internal components on the 68 series, 78 series, and the 88 series pedestal model are all based on the same technology.



http://home.comcast.net/~UCSB/56-78.gif <<>> http://home.comcast.net/~UCSB/BB-B2.gif
Photos by TetsujinWave


TABLETOP MODEL >>> HLRxx78W --- 78 Series --- Black Lacquer Screen Design

HLRxx78W Series Brochure: CLICK HERE (http://product.samsung.com/SamsungUSA/PRODUCT/20050708/DLP_78_series_1.pdf)


71" -- HLR7178W (July 2005, MSRP guess $6,799) Spec Sheet (http://home.comcast.net/~ucsb/78-series.pdf)
61" -- HLR6178W (July 2005, MSRP guess $4,799) Spec Sheet (http://home.comcast.net/~ucsb/78-series.pdf)
56" -- HLR5678W (July 2005, MSRP guess $4,499) Spec Sheet (http://home.comcast.net/~ucsb/78-series.pdf)
50" -- HLR5078W (July 2005, MSRP guess $3,999) Spec Sheet (http://home.comcast.net/~ucsb/78-series.pdf)


PLEASE NOTE - 71" HLR7178W replaces previously listed HLR7078W, the HLR7078W will not be produced. I will leave the photos of the 70" below because they should approximate the 71".
1080p (1920x1080) Resolution
Black Lacquer Screen Design, Anti-glare Matte Screen Finish
Cinema Smooth Generation 6 (Light Engine), DNIe (Video Enhancement)
Dynamic Black Level - Mechanical Iris to control light and improve Contrast Ratio
Inputs: 2 HDMI , 2 Component Video, 1 S-Video, 2 Composite
Inputs: VGA/PC (1920x1080@60Hz)
Inputs: 2 IEEE 1394 DTV Link (SOURCE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?postid=4966628&fullpage=1))
HDMI Supported Inputs: 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i (1080p will NOT be offered)
Digital Audio Out (optical)
ATSC Tuner / NTSC Tuner, Digital Cable Ready with CableCARD
TV Guide Electronic Program Guide (SOURCE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?postid=4966628&fullpage=1)) (GEMSTAR TV Guide + GOLD Demo (http://www.rca.com/documents/design3_final.htm))
AnyNET (A Serial Connection Between Samsung Components That Allows Integrated Control Via Your Remote Control)
DNSe (Dynamic Natural Sound), 30 Watts, Internal Speakers
DLP Chip: per Samsung, Latest 1080p (xHD4 (.85" 1080p) --- neither Samsung nor TI are discussing chips, this is our best guess given available information)
DLP Chip Operation: 960 x 1080 mirrors, each mirror quickly moves to produces 2 pixels displayed on the screen yielding a 1920x1080 final resolution; pixels are diamond shaped and slightly overlap, producing a smooth pixel free image
Contrast Ratio: up to 10,000:1
Brightness (cd/m-sq): 71"=500, 61"=600, 56"=700, 50"=800
Lamp (Standard/Dynamic Display Setting): 71"=(120W/132W); 50", 56", 61"=(100W/120W)
Color Wheel: 7 Segment, 10,800 RPM
Power Consumption: 230 Watts (Estimated)
NO Center Channel Shelf
HLRxx78W Series OWNERS MANUAL: CLICK HERE (http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/UM/200506/20050621103649296_BP68-00513A-00Eng.pdf)

Measurements: Thanks Kirk@TVauthority!!! HL-R5078W 46.5 x 14.0 x 34.3 -- 50" -- 75.6 lbs. HL-R5678W 52.4 x 15.3 x 37.9 -- 56" -- 84.9 lbs HL-R6178W 56.9 x 18.4 x 41.6 -- 61" -- 99.2 lbs (includes removable pedestal base) HL-R7178W 65.8 x 20.4 x 46.8 -- 71" -- 116.8 lbs (includes removable pedestal base)
FOR STAND DIMENSIONS AND WEIGHTS - CHECK SPEC SHEET LINK ABOVE
Measurements (without Pedestal Base): HL-R6178W 56.9 x 16.5 x 41.6 -- 61" -- 99.2 lbs. HL-R7178W 65.8 x 18.7 x 45.9 -- 71" -- 116.8 lbs.
Technical Drawings: Thanks Kirk@TVauthority!!! HL-R5078W - Technical Drawing (http://home.comcast.net/~ucsb/HL-R5078W.pdf) HL-R5678W - Technical Drawing (http://home.comcast.net/~ucsb/HL-R5678W.pdf) HL-R6178W - Technical Drawing (http://home.comcast.net/~ucsb/HL-R6178W.pdf) HL-R7178W - Technical Drawing Not Available Yet
78 Series Photos --- Black Lacquer Design --- Thanks TetsujinWave --- Click on Link

50" -- HLR5078W -- Photo #1 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=4964930&fullpage=1) -- Photo #2 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5098294&fullpage=1) -- Photo #3 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=4964954&fullpage=1) -- Photo #4 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5026897&fullpage=1) -- Placecard (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=4964937&fullpage=1)
56" -- HLR5678W -- Photo #1 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?postid=4966348&fullpage=1) -- Photo #2 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?postid=4966442&fullpage=1) -- Photo #3 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?postid=4942336&fullpage=1) -- Placecard (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?postid=4966421&fullpage=1)
61" -- HLR6178W -- Photo #1 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?postid=4966899&fullpage=1)
70" -- HLR7078W -- Photo #1 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=4965004&fullpage=1) -- Photo #2 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=4965030&fullpage=1) -- Photo #3 (http://www.audioholics.com/news/uploads/DSC02153_lg.jpg) -- Photo #4 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5163392&fullpage=1) -- Photo #5 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5002933&fullpage=1)
70" -- HLR7078W -- Photo #6 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=4996433&fullpage=1) -- Photo #7 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5040553&fullpage=1) -- Photo #8 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5055703&fullpage=1) -- Photo #9 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5066255&fullpage=1) -- Photo#10 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5094040&fullpage=1)
70" -- HLR7078W -- Photo#11 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5094217&fullpage=1) -- Photo#12 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5095187&fullpage=1) -- Photo#13 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5098246&fullpage=1) -- Placecard (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=4965018&fullpage=1) -- Poster (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?postid=4965010&fullpage=1)
Rear Inputs --- CLICK HERE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5554765&fullpage=1)

Background: 1080p vs 720p Comparison (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=4955769&fullpage=1) -- Series 78 Poster (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?postid=4966628&fullpage=1) -- Technical Discussion, Screen Shots, Photos (http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.watch.impress.co.jp/av/docs/20050110/dg45.htm&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dhttp://www.watch.impress.co.jp/av/docs/20050110/dg45.htm%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26sa%3DG)
Background: TI DLP Brochure for Winter 2005 (www.dlp.com/home_entertainment/images/DLP_TV_Guide.pdf) -- TI DLP Presentation (http://www.ti.com/asia/docs/india/tiidevconf2004/consumer_electronics/sreeram.ppt)




http://home.comcast.net/~UCSB/FS-A.gif<<>>http://home.comcast.net/~UCSB/FS-B.gif
Photo by TetsujinWave, KyungKim


TABLETOP MODEL >>> HLRxx68W --- 68 Series --- Floating Screen Design

HLRxx68W Series Brochure: CLICK HERE (http://product.samsung.com/SamsungUSA/PRODUCT/20050706/DLP_68_series_1.pdf)

67" -- HLR6768W (July 2005, MSRP $6,199) Spec Sheet (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=38632)
61" -- HLR6168W (July 2005, MSRP $4,799) Spec Sheet (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=38632)
56" -- HLR5668W (July 2005, MSRP $4,499) Spec Sheet (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=38632)

1080p (1920x1080) Resolution
Floating Screen Design, Anti-glare Matte Screen Finish
Cinema Smooth Generation 6 (Light Engine), DNIe (Video Enhancement)
Dynamic Black Level - Mechanical Iris to control light and improve Contrast Ratio
Inputs: 2 HDMI , 2 Component Video, 1 S-Video, 2 Composite
Inputs: VGA/PC (1920x1080@60Hz)
Inputs: 2 IEEE 1394 DTV Link (SOURCE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?postid=4966678&fullpage=1))
HDMI Supported Inputs: 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i (1080p will NOT be offered)
Digital Audio Out (optical)
ATSC Tuner / NTSC Tuner, Digital Cable Ready with CableCARD
TV Guide Electronic Program Guide (SOURCE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?postid=4966678&fullpage=1)) (GEMSTAR TV Guide + GOLD Demo (http://www.rca.com/documents/design3_final.htm))
AnyNET (A Serial Connection Between Samsung Components That Allows Integrated Control Via Your Remote Control)
30 Watts, Internal Speakers
DLP Chip: per Samsung, Latest 1080p (xHD4 (.85" 1080p) --- neither Samsung nor TI are discussing chips, this is our best guess given available information)
DLP Chip Operation: 960 x 1080 mirrors, each mirror quickly moves to produces 2 pixels displayed on the screen yielding a 1920x1080 final resolution; pixels are diamond shaped and slightly overlap, producing a smooth pixel free image
Contrast Ratio: up to 10,000:1
Brightness (cd/m-sq): 67"=550, 61"=600, 56"=700
Lamp (Standard/Dynamic Display Setting): 67"=(120W/132W); 56", 61"=(100W/120W)
Color Wheel: 7 Segment, 10,800 RPM
Power Consumption: 230 Watts (Estimated)
NO Center Channel Shelf
HLRxx68W Series OWNERS MANUAL: CLICK HERE (http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/UM/200507/20050704183212125_BP68-00520A-00Eng_book.pdf)

Measurements: Thanks Kirk@TVauthority!!! HL-R5668W 52.4 x 15.3 x 37.9 -- 56" -- 80.9 lbs HL-R6168W 56.9 x 18.4 x 41.6 -- 61" -- 99.6 lbs. (includes removable pedestal base) HL-R6768W 62.4 x 19.8 x 45.1 -- 67" -- 109.8 (includes removable pedestal base)
Measurements (without Pedestal Base): HL-R6168W 56.9 x 16.5 x 40.7 -- 61" -- 99.6 lbs. HL-R6768W 62.4 x 17.8 x 44.3 -- 67" -- 109.8 lbs
Technical Drawings: Thanks Kirk@TVauthority!!! HL-R5668W - Technical Drawing (http://home.comcast.net/~ucsb/HL-R5668W.pdf) HL-R6168W - Technical Drawing (http://home.comcast.net/~ucsb/HL-R6168W.pdf) HL-R6768W - Technical Drawing (http://home.comcast.net/~ucsb/HL-R6768W.pdf)
68 Series Photos --- Floating Screen Design --- Thanks KyungKim, TetsujinWave --- Click on Link

56" -- HLR5668W -- Photo #1 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5004982&fullpage=1) (Good For Depth, Shape) -- Photo #2 (http://img15.exs.cx/img15/1649/hlr5668w2al.gif) -- Photo #3 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5026917&fullpage=1)
56" -- HLR5668W -- Placecard (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?postid=4966522&fullpage=1)
61" -- HLR6168W -- Photo #1 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=4955685&fullpage=1) -- Photo #2 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?postid=4966758&fullpage=1) -- Photo #3 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=4970111&fullpage=1) -- Photo #4 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5002884&fullpage=1) -- Photo #5 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5004052&fullpage=1)
61" -- HLR6168W -- Photo #6 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5002982&fullpage=1) -- Photo #7 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5100319&fullpage=1) -- Photo #8 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5141688&fullpage=1) -- Photo #9 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5148752&fullpage=1) (Shows Stabilization Base)
61" -- HLR6168W -- Photo#10 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5163423&fullpage=1) -- Placecard (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5026962&fullpage=1)
67" -- HLR6768W -- Photo #1 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5035510&fullpage=1) -- Photo #2 (http://www.pbase.com/jsjames/image/38400040) -- Placecard (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5026976&fullpage=1)
Rear Inputs --- CLICK HERE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5554765&fullpage=1)


Background: Floating Screen Close-up (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?postid=4955704&fullpage=1) -- Series 68 Poster (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?postid=4966678&fullpage=1)
Photos of Internal Components: CLICK HERE (https://svartifoss2.fcc.gov/prod/oet/forms/blobs/retrieve.cgi?attachment_id=561920&native_or_pdf=pdf)
Video: VIDEO (Warning: C/Net's Price and CableCard Comments are in ERROR) (http://www.cnet.com/4520-10602_1-5619186-1.html)
High Resolution PHOTO (1.25 MB, Excellent): HiRes Photo (http://www.hwhpr.com/prclients/samsung/ces05/index.html) / LowRes Preview Photo (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5015522&fullpage=1)




http://home.comcast.net/~UCSB/5688.jpg
Photo by Samsung


PEDESTAL MODEL >>> 88 Series

56" -- HLR5688W (July 2005, $5,199) Spec Sheet (http://product.samsung.com/SamsungUSA/PRODUCT/20050713/HLR5087W_5688W_spec.pdf)

1080p (1920x1080) Resolution
Cinema Smooth Generation 6 (Light Engine), DNIe (Video Enhancement)
Dynamic Black Level - Mechanical Iris to control light and improve Contrast Ratio
Anti-glare Matte Screen Finish
Inputs: 2 HDMI, 2 Component Video, 1 S-Video, 2 Composite
Inputs: VGA/PC (1920x1080@60Hz)
Inputs: IEEE 1394 DTV Link (unconfirmed)
Digital Audio Out (optical)
HDMI Supported Inputs: 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i (1080p will NOT be offered)
ATSC Tuner / NTSC Tuner, Digital Cable Ready with CableCARD
TV Guide Electronic Program Guide (GEMSTAR TV Guide + GOLD Demo (http://www.rca.com/documents/design3_final.htm))
AnyNET (A Serial Connection Between Samsung Components That Allows Integrated Control Via Your Remote Control)
30 Watts, Internal Speakers
DLP Chip: xHD4 (.85" 1080p)
DLP Chip Operation: 960 x 1080 mirrors, each mirror quickly moves to produces 2 pixels displayed on the screen yielding a 1920x1080 final resolution; pixels are diamond shaped and slightly overlap, producing a smooth pixel free image
Contrast Ratio: up to 10,000:1
Color Wheel: 7 Segment
Power Consumption: 230 Watts
NO Center Channel Shelf

HLR5688W OWNERS MANUAL: CLICK HERE (http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/MM/200212/um_hlr5688w_manual_eng_051220.pdf)
Online OWNERS MANUAL: CLICK HERE (http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/MM/200212/um_hlr5688w_start_eng_051220.htm)


Measurements: HL-R5688W, 58.7 x 21.9 x 58.4
Measurements: of the CURRENT HLP5685, 58.7"(W) x 58.3"(H) x 21.9"(D)


88 Series Photos --- Pedestal Screen Design --- Click on Link

56" -- HLR5688W (Photo appears to be of 50" model) -- Photo #1 (http://www.pbase.com/jsjames/image/38440295/original) -- Photo #2 (http://img15.exs.cx/img15/875/hlr5688w1oh.gif)
High Resolution PHOTO (1.25 MB, Excellent): HiRes Photo (http://www.hwhpr.com/prclients/samsung/ces05/index.html) / LowRes Preview Photo (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=5015533&fullpage=1)

The issues that are listed below are the issues that we currently are still investigating. Please feel free to suggest new open issues. Hopefully, we will be able to answer all of the questions below over the next few weeks.

====================

What we DON’T KNOW so far:

1. What computer resolutions are supported on the 68, 78, and 88 series sets on the HDMI input(1920x1080?)? Specifically, does it support 1080i or 1080p?

>> ANSWER: It is better to use the PC/VGA input for computers.

2. Will the internal ATSC tuner or CableCard tuner support the future 1080p broadcast format on the 1080p units?

>> ANSWER: Yes.

3. What capabilities does the 1394 port have to support 1080p? Specifically, if the internal tuner can support broadcast 1080p/24, can this be output via the 1394 port? Could a 1080p signal be input via the 1394 port?

4. Will Samsung provide any method (USB port/PC, Memory Cards) for customers to apply firmware upgrades to the new 1080p HDTVs? There are two other manufacturers that currently provide this capability for their DLP sets.

>> ANSWER: No, not at this point in time.

5. On the 1080p sets, which inputs have DNIe turned on all of the time. On the HDMI inputs and other inputs (VGA/PC, 1394), is DNIe ON or OFF? Does selecting a specific device type with inputs that have DNIe on all of the time reduce the level of processing (selecting GAME on component, for example)?

6. Will 1080p sets support multichannel audio (5.1) on the HDMI inputs? 720p sets only support 2 channels and this prevents a multichannel pass through to a receiver. This is important to manage sync in some situations.

>> ANSWER: No, 2 channel PCM audio only.


Items We Would Like To Test, But Need To Wait Until HDTV's Are Released:

1. Do the remote control IR discrete codes work for ALL inputs?

>> ANSWER: HLP control codes work on the HLR models, but Samsung has not released discrete codes for the new inputs (HDMI 2, etc.). If anyone gets a comprehensive list of discrete codes please PM me, I will post them here.

2. Given the increased video processing demands of 1080p, what is the capability of the 68/78/88 series 1080p sets to handle computer/video gaming? Specifically, what is lag?

>> ANSWER: There is a small amount of lag in video gaming. All games appear to be playable except the most demanding, split second games.

3. Given the increased video processing required in the 1080p units (68, 78, 88 Series), what steps has Samsung taken to insure that we don't see lip sync issues? Did anyone ask specifically about this concern?

>> ANSWER: Given the large number of possible source components and external audio processing options, lip sync problems will be an issue. I recommend either a AV receiver with an audio delay for each input (it would be nice if these could be adjusted easily, when needed). If your receiver does not have this function, I recommend an external audio delay component. The $230 Felston DD540 appears to be an excellent solution: CLICK HERE (http://www.felston.com/dd540/index.htm)

4. Will 1080p be supported on the HDMI input on the 1080p models (68, 78, 88 series)? All of our information collected up to this point indicates that it won't, but it is an important item and many of us hope Samsung will find a way to include it in the final production sets. It should be checked when the sets are released.

>> ANSWER: No, 1080p will not be supported on the HDMI input.

5. How will SD broadcasts look on the 1080p sets? How will this compare to SD broadcasts on 720p sets?

>> ANSWER: These sets do an exceptional job of handling SD broadcasts. The internal tuners allow you to FINE TUNE reception on SD broadcast and this makes a huge difference. Fine tuning setting are memorized and do not have to be redone once they are initially set.

6. How will standard DVD's look on the 1080p sets? How will standard DVD's look after being upshifted by the better upshifting DVD players in comparison to standard DVD on the 720p sets? Is there any advantage to the new 1080p sets when playing standard DVD's?

ANSWER: Standard DVD's look superb on the 1080p sets, better than on 720p sets because these TV's outperform 720p sets.

7. In selecting a DVD player, will you get a better quality picture if you send the 1080p HDTV a 480i digital feed and let the TV do all of the processing OR by using a upshifting DVD player to send a 1080i digital signal that is deinterlaced to 1080p?

>> ANSWER: Tested this with the Sony DVP-NS975V and found that 480i and 1080i via HDMI were very similar. I left my player setup to 1080i.

8. When setting up a given input, such as HDMI or Component 1, does the processing associated with the input change when you select a different descriptive name for the input (such as GAME, DVD, HD STB, etc.)?

>> ANSWER: Yes, input name will affect performance of input. Especially, GAME for video gaming.

9. Can you get 1:1 pixel mapping of a computer input on the PC/VGA input (at 1920x1080)? On HDMI? If so, how exactly is it setup and what picture mode do you use?

>> ANSWER: 1:1 pixel mapping is possible on the PC/VGA input (but, may result in slight overscan). HDMI input is not recommended for PC input. See thread for suggestions of computer connection.

10. What results have been observed with various DVD players (Samsung DVD-HD950, etc.)?

>> ANSWER: See POST #4 below for reviews of the four most popular models.

:) DVD Player Compatibility Testing Results

I have taken a look at the OPPO OPDV971H, Samsung DVD-HD950, Panasonic DVD-S97 and Sony DVP-NS975V. I hope to continue my testing with other players and hope to be able to report on the Pioneer DV59-AVi or it’s successor the DV79-AVi.

The intent of my work was not to document every feature of these players. You can check the user’s manuals and manufacturer web sites for that information. I also can not test the players in the manner that Secrets of Home Theater can. So I would recommend that you review their work at this address: CLICK HERE ( http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-bin/shootout.cgi?function=search&articles=all) . Please note, based on my testing, both the OPPO and Sony reviews are outdated on the Secrets site because they are based on earlier versions of the players or their firmware. My intent is also not to duplicate or replace the thousands of comments on avsForum by members in the OPPO, Sony, and Samsung threads.

So what am I trying to do? Quite simply, I am trying to see how these players operate with the new Samsung 1080p DLP’s and by extension how they might work with the many new 1080p DLP HDTV’s coming out during the next few months. I was trying to find the best one or two players for my own HT setup. I also hope that my work will help you narrow the field down to the players that will match your own unique HT setup. You still have to do your own research, but hopefully this work will get you started.

Why did I start with these four players? Well, these four players are based on three different chip technologies. These technologies include Genesis Faroujda (OPPO, Panasonic), Zoran (Samsung), and Sony proprietary (Sony). I still hope to get a chance to look at the Pioneer players, but I am still working on that as I write this summary.

I was looking for compatibility with 1080p HDTV’s and the Samsung’s in particular. I defined compatibility to include both picture quality (PQ) and other features designed to make up for deficiencies in the Samsung 1080p sets. These additional features included an AV sync function (to overcome any lip sync issues) and flexible audio control to allow sending audio to both the TV and an AV receiver (giving you the option of using either setup). The ability to route the right sound to the TV or a receiver is required because the Samsung can not pass through DD/DTS 5.1 audio via HDMI.

What were the results of my observations? I can recommend the OPPO, Panasonic and SONY. But, unfortunately I can not recommend the Samsung at this point in time. Please read my comments on each player below to understand which player is the best match to your own HT environment and viewing preferences.

The DVD experience on the new 1080p Samsungs is exceptional. There were some initial questions about whether movies would look better or worst on the new 1080p sets. In my opinion, movies look significantly better on the new 1080p sets than on my Samsung HLN 720p set.

All of my tests were done on my HLR5668W using STANDARD picture mode with the TV’s picture mode set to their defaults. DVE was used to setup each DVD player and all picture settings were fine tuned on the DVD player. ONLY the DVI / HDMI output on each player and 1080i was tested on this initial set of tests.

If there is interest, I can post photos of the Sony/OPPO/Panasonic remotes or units.

========

DVD Player: OPPO
Chip Technology: Genesis FLI-2310 Deinterlacer, Mediatek MPEG decoder
Firmware: 29 June 2005
List Price: $199
Web Site: http://www.oppodigital.com/

Overall Performance:
>HLRxxx8W Compatibility (Low, Med, High): High
>HLRxxx8W Performance Impression (Low, Med, High): High

Output Resolution Tested: 1080i
Other Resolutions Offered (via HDMI): 480p, 720p

Basic Tests:
> Blacker-Than-Black: Passed.
> Macroblocking: Yes, but generally not present or not significant.

Important Features to Enhance HLRxxx8W Performance:
1. A/V sync capability (up to 50 ms, 10 ms increments). It would have been nice if this delay could have been up to 100 or 120 ms. ADDED: OPPO Digital recently stated that would like to increase the A/V sync capability from 50 ms to 120 ms. ... if they can implement this extension in the next firmware upgrade it will be a great enhancement!!!
2. Ability to send audio to TV via RCA cables *AND* send DD/DTS to your receiver via digital cable. This allows you to use either your TV audio or the receiver audio without making any adjustments to your DVD player. Excellent control over signals going to TV and receiver.


Nice Features:
1. Clear, sharp, nice picture. This player has an exceptional picture, only degraded occasionally by macroblocking.
2. Good build quality (nice front panel display, nice finish, gold plated inputs). The player has a nice simple, streamlined two tone look.
3. Clear, easy to read setup menus. This player offers exceptional granularity on settings (offering up to 20 steps on some). In addition, this player offered more control over picture and sound than any other player reviewed. The OPPO offered control over settings that other players did not allow you to control. Please review manual for all setup menu options. ADDED: The Panasonic S97 also offers extensive picture control and granularity.
4. The player has a nice very readable blue front panel display plus many front panel display control options. In addition, the player has blue accent lights for all control buttons. I really like this feature because it allows me to identify and operate the player in my cabinet in low light! They can be turned off in the setup menu if you find them distracting.
6. Good controls for navigating in movies.
7. The remote is light and small making it easy to use. Some buttons are small and hard to read in low light, no backlighting. But, all important functions (and many unique, nice functions) are available and would be easy to transfer to any universal remote.
8. The player includes a quality DVI – HDMI cable that performed well.
9. The OPPO has without a doubt one of the nicest convenience features I have ever seen ... when you put a DVD in the unit, a message comes up on the screen saying loading ... when that message changed to DVD-video, press menu and you skip ahead to the DVD's main menu!!!!! You don't have to sit through all warnings and other filler that can take forever to get through. Thank you OPPO!

Problem Areas:
1. Occasional macroblocking.
2. No disc play position memory. This is a convenient feature offered on the other players.
2. Audio / video sync setting only goes to 50 ms. It would have been nice if it went higher, perhaps to 100 ms or 120 ms.


Comments:

I really like this DVD player. It is one of the highest rated DVD players ever on Secrets of Home Theater. It offers an exceptional sharp, clear picture that is compelling and addictive. The picture is only degraded by occasional macroblocking. Macroblocking seems to be a problem with all of the Genesis FLI-23xx based players, including Denon’s players and the Panasonic S97 (see notes 1 & 2 below). This player is an enthusiast’s player in that it offers comprehensive setup control for picture and sound. You will have more control with this player over your final viewing experience than with other competing players (ADDED: Panasonic S97, last player reviewed, also offers extensive control over picture setup).

Since most people buying this player will be ordering it via the internet (http://www.oppodigital.com/), I would like to briefly comment on how it is shipped. It is shipped double boxed in a nice box. It is well protected during shipment by Styrofoam packaging. The player is wrapped in a blue OPPO sleeve that is soft and impressed me. It shouts we care about this player and your ownership experience. Nice job OPPO.



(1) To minimize macroblocking care should be taken to setup the player and TV correctly.
(2) I still hope to test the Denon and Panasonic players to determine the degree of macroblocking on these players.



=======


DVD Player: Sony DVP-NS975V
Chip Technology: Sony Proprietary CDX9304
Firmware: 1.90 (procedure to check firmware level in service menu ... with the power off to the unit; press TOP MENU,CLEAR,then POWER on the remote.)
List Price: $299

Overall Performance:
>HLRxxx8W Compatibility (Low, Med, High): High
>HLRxxx8W Performance Impression (Low, Med, High): High

Output Resolution Tested: 1080i
Other Resolutions Offered (via HDMI): 480i, 480p, 720p

Basic Tests:
> Blacker-Than-Black: Passed (manual picture settings, Cinema1, Cinema 2)
> Macroblocking: None

Important Features to Enhance HLRxxx8W Performance:
1. Ability to send PCM digital audio to TV over HDMI *AND* send DD/DTS to your receiver. This allows you to use either your TV audio or the receiver audio without making any adjustments to your DVD player.
2. Six PQ modes (standard, dynamic 1, dynamic 2, cinema 1, cinema 2, manual) that are accessible through a single button on the remote. Only manual is adjustable. I really like this PQ feature. Think of this feature like the picture modes in your DLP (ie. movie, standard, custom, and dynamic).
3. A/V sync capability (up to 100 ms, 10 ms increments). This feature does not work if you output Dolby Digital and/or DTS to your receiver ... so it will not solve the sync problems between the TV and receiver.

Nice Features:
1. Sharp, nice picture. Low levels of video noise.
2. Quality look, build (aluminum front panel, gold plated inputs).
3. Clear, easy to read setup menus.
4. Organized, easy to use control menu that is accessible during DVD play. These menus are large and clearly labeled. Plus a simple, elapsed time (and remaining time) only menu for quick checks of where you are in a movie. Nice.
5. Many front panel display brightness control options allowing you to tailor the visual look of the unit’s display to virtually any desired mode of operation.
6. Instant replay, instant skip forward. Plus scan back / forward.
7. Manual picture settings (brightness, ….).
8. Placement of HDMI input and digital audio connections makes access easy in cabinet.
9. HDMI output supports 12 bit connection. 12 bit/108 MHz internal video processing.
10. 40 disc play position memory.
11. The player has a single button function called Picture Navigator that brings up 9 scenes at a time and lets you branch directly to the scene. Nice, like a built in chapter select from the DVD’s own menu. Unique.
12. Nice remote. Some buttons are small and hard to read in low light, no backlighting. But, all important functions (and many unique, nice functions) are available and would be easy to transfer to any universal remote.

Problem Areas:
1. Several users have reported reliability problems with EARLIER versions of this player. A model revision and firmware upgrades have since been implemented. But, buyers will have $250 - $325 (plus cables) invested in this player and will expect reliability.
2. Available in silver only, this player makes a strong style statement that may or may not match your other equipment.
3. Not really a problem, but the player does not include a HDMI cable … so you will have to buy one. Other players (OPPO, Samsung) include a cable with the player.
4. AV alignment (sync) feature does not work on dolby digital and DTS being output to your receiver, only with PCM output. This is a disappointment.


Comments:

I really liked this DVD player. It offered a huge number of convenient and thoughtful features that gave the user excellent control over navigation, configuration, and viewing. The player exhibited no macroblocking and extremely low video noise levels. This resulted in a smooth, sharp, and stable picture. I would give the 975 the edge on overall PQ in this review of four players because of the lack of macroblocking. The OPPO and Panasonic pictures were as nice or nicer, but their overall score on my testing had to be lower because of their very occassional macroblocking. Secrets of Home Theater rated this (or an earlier version of this player) lower than the OPPO and Panasonic; you may want to read the their comments before making a purchasing decision (aspects of the review seem outdated to me). If you are comparing the two Genesis players to the Sony DVP-NS975V on Secrets of Home Theater, you will notice the Sony got a lower rating. This was because at the time of the Secrets testing the Sony did not pass BTB. Please be aware that the 975 (firmware 1.90) passes BTB in Manual, Cinema 1, and Cinema 2 modes so it’s rating would be now be higher. Failure to pass BTB was Secrets only major problem with the player. The 975 did fail my chroma tests, but I did not see any problems with this flaw in over 60 hours of DVD video reviewed. I’m not a DVD player testing facility, but the picture looked really nice to me. The convenience features on this player can not be beat (but, the Panasonic S97 also has an extensive and comparable set of convenience features).

One final note, this player offers 480i output over HDMI. I have done a little initial testing on the capability, but I’m not ready to report in it at this point in time. It is a unique feature.



========


DVD Player: Samsung DVD-HD950
Firmware: n/a
List Price: $249

Overall Performance:
>HLRxxx8W Compatibility (Low, Med, High): Med
>HLRxxx8W Performance Impression (Low, Med, High): Low/Med

Output Resolution Tested: 1080i
Other Resolutions Offered (via HDMI): 480p, 720p

Basic Tests:
> Blacker-Than-Black: No
> Macroblocking: None

Important Features to Enhance HLRxxx8W Performance:
1. Samsung’s Anynet is a nice way to integrate the control and operation of the DVD player with the TV. I liked this feature.

Nice Features:
1. Manual picture settings (but, basic compared to other players).
2. Organized, easy to use reporting and control menu that is accessible during DVD play. This menu is large and clearly labeled.
3. Many display brightness control options allowing you to tailor the visual look of the units front display to virtually any desired mode of operation.
4. Instant replay, instant skip forward.
5. Nice comprehensive remote. Some buttons are small and hard to read in low light, no backlighting. But, all important functions are available and would be easy to transfer to any universal remote.
6. HDMI-HDMI cable, HDMI-DVI cable, and an AnyNet Cable are included.

Problem Areas:
1. PQ was not as good as other units tested. Seemed not as sharp, rougher. Others on the forum have called it muddy or dull. It was not acceptable. This was a surprise to me because I had viewed the player at Magnolia HiFi a few weeks ago and it had seemed nice there. I learned NEVER try to evaluate a DVD player in a store! It takes careful setup and hours of viewing to form competent opinions.
2. White LCD front panel was cosmetically unattractive and hard to read. It is worthless unless you are right next to the player, but the on-screen information function is nice and can be used instead. This is stark contrast to my two year old Samsung DVD-HD931, which had an excellent display and the other players in this comparison that had displays that were readable from quite a distance.
3. Only one way to set audio out. So either the TV can get PCM and work or your receiver can get DD/DTS and work. If sending DD/DTS to receiver you get annoying HDMI audio error messages on your display. This problem totally amazes me, it was present in the 2004 models and would be obvious with any product testing at all.
4. Player seemed cheaper than the others in the test (weight, connectors, display, plastic front panel, indicator lamps), but the black color minimized the cosmetic problems. Player could seem out of place cosmetically if you have other expensive components.
5. Player did not remember settings, such as the screen messages off setting and LCD display off setting making it impossible to create a work around for other problems.
6. No audio-video sync function. This was offered by some of the other players in the comparison. AV sync is a requirement so if the player does not do it you should consider a receiver with the capability or an external sync solution.


Comments:

I think everyone knows that I am a big Samsung enthusiast, so it hurts to say that I did not like this player. Actually, after a week, I really started to dislike it. Compared to the performance and features included on the other players in this test, it seemed like an incomplete engineering prototype … a stripped down basic player. I could go into more detail about this player, but it would be waste of your time reading it and my time writing it.

=======


DVD Player: Panasonic DVD-S97
Chip Technology: Genesis FLI-2310 Deinterlacer
Firmware: 86H362 July 2005 Mfg Date, Revised S97 (procedure to check firmware level in service menu ... with the power on to the unit; press at same time PAUSE + EJECT and then 7 on the remote.)
List Price: $299

Overall Performance:
>HLRxxx8W Compatibility (Low, Med, High): High
>HLRxxx8W Performance Impression (Low, Med, High): High

Output Resolution Tested: 1080i
Other Resolutions Offered (via HDMI): 480p, 720p

Basic Tests:
> Blacker-Than-Black: Passed
> Macroblocking: Yes, but generally not present or not significant.

Important Features to Enhance HLRxxx8W Performance:
1. Ability to send PCM digital audio to TV over HDMI *AND* send DD/DTS to your receiver. This allows you to use either your TV audio or the receiver audio without making any adjustments to your DVD player.
2. Five PQ modes that are accessible through a single button on the remote. I really like this PQ feature. Think of this feature like the picture modes in your DLP (ie. movie, standard, custom, and dynamic).
3. A/V sync capability (up to 100 ms, 10 ms increments). I did not get as much testing time with this feature, so you should probably confirm that it works over the optical / coax digital outputs correctly. It appeared to be working.

Nice Features:
1. Sharp, nice picture. Unfortunately, macroblocking is present. The player that I was evaluating was the revised version of the S97 with the latest firmware. Macroblocking appeared to be very comparable to what is seen on the latest version of the OPPO. I believe both players have integrated the latest Genesis firmware. This has yielded significant improvements over earlier versions of this player.
2. Quality look, build. I like the style of this player. It has a large blue light above the DVD tray that makes changing disc’s convenient … nice feature. If you don’t like lights on your player it can be turned off.. The players operational buttons were easy to use because of their position and angle. The player also had three LED lights indication HDMI operational status and other items. Nice.
3. Clear, easy to read setup menus. Crisp nicely designed setup and operational menus. This player seems nice and refined in terms of it’s control menus.
4. Organized, easy to use control menu that is accessible during DVD play. These menus are large and clearly labeled. This player offered extensive control in it’s operational menu. Plus a simple, elapsed time (and remaining time) only menu for quick checks of where you are in a movie. Nice.
5. Many front panel display brightness control options allowing you to tailor the visual look of the unit’s display to virtually any desired mode of operation. This player had the largest, nicest display of any of the players that I reviewed. I really like this feature. I could easily read the display from my normal viewing distance.
6. Instant replay. Plus scan back / forward.
7. Extensive manual picture settings. Brightness, contrast, color, hue, gamma, several noise reduction options. Very comprehensive and very nice. These settings were in addition to extensive configuration options in it’s setup menu. Nice.
8. All menus (setup, operational) were exceptionally nice graphics and very clear and easy to read. The unit had a refined, polished look.
9. Placement of HDMI input and digital audio connections makes access easy in cabinet.
10. HDMI output supports 10 or 11 bit connection. I haven’t completed my research in this area, but this design supports more than the 8 bit format on DVI based players. But, please remember all DVD’s are encoded in 8 bits.
11. 5 disc play position memory.
12. Nice remote. No backlighting. But, all important functions (and many unique, nice functions) are available and would be easy to transfer to any universal remote.
13. Player includes a HDMI – HDMI cable. It is a light weight cable, but will get up setup and operational.

Problem Areas:
1. Macroblocking - video noise: Unfortunately this player, like all other Genesis FL2310 based players reviewed, exhibits marcoblocking on the Samsung 1080p sets. But, the problems are generally not visible or significant. The macroblocking was comparable to what is visible on the OPPO (which uses the same Genesis FL2310 chip).


Comments:

I really liked this DVD player. In terms of it’s style, display, lighted DVD, tray, and easy to use buttons it was a nice unit physically. The unit also has nicely executed and extensive setup and operational menus. It offered more setup and operational control features than any other player in these tests. It offered a huge number of convenient and thoughtful features that gave the user excellent control over navigation, configuration, and viewing. This player has a smooth, sharp, and stable picture. It is only degraded occasionally by macroblocking. In most movies this will not be visible, but in a macroblocking torture test like “Master and Commander” it will be an issue. The picture and macroblocking is very similar to the OPPO. Both the OPPO and the S97 are very highly rated on Secrets of Home Theater. If you are comparing the two Genesis players to the Sony DVP-NS975V on Secrets of Home Theater, you will notice the Sony got a substantially lower rating. This was because the Sony did not pass BTB. Please be aware that the 975 (firmware 1.90) passes BTB in Manual, Cinema 1, and Cinema 2 modes so it’s rating would be higher. The 975 did fail my chroma tests, but I did not see any problems with this flaw in over 60 hours of DVD video reviewed. Back to the Panasonic, the convenience features on this player can not be beat and are as complete as the feature rich Sony 975.

:)

It's good to see this come into fruition. It's been a long road, hasn't it?

UCSB: I'm really happy *you* posted this thread! Anyone else could have started the thread, but knowing you, things will be maintained and there will be more information here than we could all dream about together! We have a long and happy road, thanks very much to UCSB, TVAuthority, TetsujinWave, Daphoid, Samsung, Kirk, Cambryn and many others!!!

I have a question? Is there anything we can feed these donkeys to get them to trot faster? :D

Please test out an XBOX on the 6168 and let use know about the "lag". I have one on order from TVA as well. If there is lag, SORRY - but I am sending it back for the new MITS DLP and I might even consider the LG 50PY2DR Plasma or the Panny TH-50PHD7UY or even the newer TH-50PHD8UY. Too many good TVs out there to choose from.. :D

Hopefully, I won't have to waste any time or money shipping that 61" back to TVA.

Keep us posted guys! Have fun too, you know we are jealous. I can't wait to get my tracking number from TVA. :cool:

Finally! An owners thread. Hopefully most of us preorders will be watching the set by the last week in July. I had hoped to get by my local Tweeters today and compare their 61" Samsung 1080P with their Qualia 006 but NTB screwed me and broake a post on my wheel so I had to sit around for 3 hours waiting for them to fix it. Maybe I can get by there tomorrow or tonight.
Has anyone recieved their sets yet from the first 30 that was shipped from TVA?

As I am #1 on the waiting list for a HLR6168 from TVA, I expect to be one of the first to get one (it depends on how fast the donkey gets over the Sierras and to Colorado - at least I am on the west side of the Rockies so the donkey doesn't have to climb them :D ). The shipping company has informed me that the sets are currently in transit. It appears that the expected arrival date is the same for everyone and is listed as Friday 7/22. I'll post my impressions as soon as I get it. :D :D :D

Spent some time looking at the internal components images posted on the FCC website. As was expected the internals for the 68/78 are identical. The block diagrams posted for the 68/78/88 are also the same. However the pictures for the digital board for the 68/78 and that for the 88 are significantly different. I at first thought this might have to do with the pedestal configuration (and that might end up being what it is) but the digital boards were very close in size but with very different layouts. Unfortunately the pictures for the 68/78 are not nearly as clear as those for the 88, so it is extremely difficult to determine if there are differences in chips. As we proceed it will be interesting to note whether there are differences between the 68/78 and the 88 sets.

I was pleased to see UCSB start this thread. I knew it was only a matter of time! :) Samsung ought to take you on board, you and this thread resulted in me buying a 5668. I rely on folks like you to help me make informed decisions. I research just about every large purchase (my wife thinks too much), but then I find a way to get the best deal possible on these items. Thanks to all who post.

These are unanswered questions from the 2005 thread. Can anyone help? :o :o

I will be getting one of the first 5668s from TVA...hopefully next week on the southeast coast. I am contemplating receivers and the cabling. Should I press for an HDMI switching system? Will a component switching receiver be OK? Should I send only audio to the AVR and bypass getting onscreen info from the receiver and run HDMI from my HD DVR? I am at a loss and need to think of cabling so I can make inputs back to you folks.

I will be hooking up a PS via component and will report back on that as well. Added the 950 for comparison also. Anything I am missing?

Scott

Spent some time looking at the internal components images posted on the FCC website. As was expected the internals for the 68/78 are identical. The block diagrams posted for the 68/78/88 are also the same. However the pictures for the digital board for the 68/78 and that for the 88 are significantly different. I at first thought this might have to do with the pedestal configuration (and that might end up being what it is) but the digital boards were very close in size but with very different layouts. Unfortunately the pictures for the 68/78 are not nearly as clear as those for the 88, so it is extremely difficult to determine if there are differences in chips. As we proceed it will be interesting to note whether there are differences between the 68/78 and the 88 sets.

Could you list the fcc site they were displayed on thanx.GPS shows donkey croosing over to Nevada headed east lol

FCC SITE LINK (https://svartifoss2.fcc.gov/prod/oet/cf/eas/reports/GenericSearch.cfm)

What I have found that works the best is to put "samsung" in Applicant Name, put the date range you are interested in (I usually start 01/01/2005 to current date) in Grant Date Range, "dlp" in Product Description and finally change Show 10 Records at a Time to 100. Then search.

The 88 is FCC ID A3LAT56L7X, while the 68/78 are A3LAT67L6D & A3LAT71L6D.

You can search for other manufactures etc, trying various combinations of search items. One thing to remember is that a number of Japanese manufactures do not show up. We (the USA) apparently have trade agreements that allow certain countries (or groups of countries) to do their own testing and we simply accept that they meet standards.

I have my eye on the 7178 and have been browsing the pdf version of the manual. What I don't see is any info on the RS-232C port and the Service port (that looks like it might be USB).

Does Samsung provide software with their HDTVs to let you access the RS-232C port and, if so, what it it used for? Is there any available online documentation?

And does anyone have any experience using a 'Service' port for a software upgrade on a Samsung TV? Is it a USB connector?

Do we know for sure what chips are in which sets(interests in the 88 chip)and what the differences are in the HD3 to the HD4 just

Anyone have a 6768 on order (or better yet, at home!)? This is the set that I am most interested in (it doesn't hurt that it was chosen "Best in Show" at CES)!

I am a little confused on the measurements for this item. With the base, the height is listed as 45.1 inches. Without the base, it is listed as 44.3 inches. How can this be?

9. Can you get 1:1 pixel mapping of a computer input on the PC/VGA input (at 1920x1080)? On HDMI? If so, how exactly is it setup and what picture mode do you use?

According to the 68 series manual, it looks like 1:1 pixel mapping is possible through the D-Sub connector. Check out page 130, "The optimal resolution is 1920 x 1080 @ 60Hz."

It's amazing how this thread has already side-tracked.... :(

Anyone have a 6768 on order (or better yet, at home!)? This is the set that I am most interested in (it doesn't hurt that it was chosen "Best in Show" at CES)!

I am a little confused on the measurements for this item. With the base, the height is listed as 45.1 inches. Without the base, it is listed as 44.3 inches. How can this be?I have it on pre-order with TVA...#1 in line...I will be removing the base as I did with my HLP6163. It looks like the base fits into the Samsung stand in the pictures above. There is also a tech drawing above of the 6768.

Thanks Joe.

Be sure to post your review as soon as you can after you get your set!

:)

Anyone have a 6768 on order (or better yet, at home!)? This is the set that I am most interested in (it doesn't hurt that it was chosen "Best in Show" at CES)!

I am a little confused on the measurements for this item. With the base, the height is listed as 45.1 inches. Without the base, it is listed as 44.3 inches. How can this be?

Check out the 6768 technical drawing link in POST #2 above. It has all of the measurements for the 6768, including the base.

Check out the 6768 technical drawing link in POST #2 above. It has all of the measurements for the 6768, including the base.

Yep, I saw it after Joe's post. Thanks Bill, and sorry for missing it. :o

Jumpin the gun a little aint we? I mean don't get me wrong, Ive been waiting for these as long as anybody, but unless someone actually Owns one and it's sitting in their living room I dont see how there's an owners thread? haha.. I hear there are some display models around but can you actually buy those? Im not being pessimistic, but if it's still 2-3 weeks away (maybe more) kinda ghey that all these companies said end of June, shipping... I hope people start getting their orders IN! Just to end these rumors I keep hearing about Problems with the Sammy's and Mitsi's.

Jumpin the gun a little aint we? I mean don't get me wrong, Ive been waiting for these as long as anybody, but unless someone actually Owns one and it's sitting in their living room I dont see how there's an owners thread? haha.. I hear there are some display models around but can you actually buy those? Im not being pessimistic, but if it's still 2-3 weeks away (maybe more) kinda ghey that all these companies said end of June, shipping... I hope people start getting their orders IN! Just to end these rumors I keep hearing about Problems with the Sammy's and Mitsi's.


:confused:

:confused:

All in favor?

-Mr. Wigggles
Absolutely! :) :) :)

I will delete thread in a matter of hours myself, but I hearby nominate UCSB an all powerful moderator so he can clean up this OWNER's THREAD.

All in favor?

-Mr. Wigggles

Definitely - an Owners Thread should be for Owners to discuss with other
Owners, to post reviews of their set and for non-Owners and potential
Owners to ask questions of Owners...

I will delete thread in a matter of hours myself, but I hearby nominate UCSB an all powerful moderator so he can clean up this OWNER's THREAD.

All in favor?

-Mr. WiggglesAgreed!!!

Yes, indeed. Just like the other main thread. And this one has only been alive for ~12 hours! I would prefer that all of the endless rambling about waiting, impatience, position-in-line, pre-orders, "I can't wait", "Where's my f**king TV", status, delivery, donkeys, etc be done in the Power-Buy thread and keep this thread (and the main thread) for discussions, reviews, etc about the actual TVs.

Yes, But I have constantly asked questions of the experts and get nothing but donkey progress and where is my TV. :mad: I am exasperated at asking questions, let unanswered and largely ignored. :mad: I will sort it out once the TV arrives and go from there. Lots of postulation, but I was in fact asking somewhat pertitent info :mad: . Maybe you have it our for Milirary guys. Don't know. I am finished asking unanswered questions. :mad: Thanks to all who helped me make the decision.

Yikes ... everyone calm down. I'm not a moderator so I can not change the thread in any way (except my own POSTS). Even if I was, I wouldn't because no one has done anything wrong. I set the thread up because I expected some people to have their sets (5078's) by this weekend. Certainly dozens of people will be receiving their TV's over the next week. A little patience, please.

I also thought that people would possibly ask setup questions (like FLApilot's), compare design and setup ideas (schaffer970's custom stand), and finalize our open list of issues. One area I was hoping to write a post on myself was the method we could use to test and report performance with gaming systems. This is always confusing, usually for weeks, and I believe that we have learned enough to do a better job this time around.

Anyway, let's not pick on each other ... it really take the fun out of the hobby.

FLApilot ... to answer your questions. I don't know what your receiver budget is, but I would try and get an HDMI switching receiver. The 5668 has two HDMI inputs and if you are only going to say run a DVD player and STB then you could save some money on a receiver because you would have enough digital inputs. But, a HDMI switching receiver will give you some flexibility in the future and simplify your system operation. Here are a couple of new Pioneer models that I think are nice: CLICK HERE (http://www.guidetohometheater.com/news/070405Pioneer/). These new receivers seem to have a lot of nice features for the price. We should see a number of new HDMI switching receivers over the next six months. Remember, check that the receiver has an audio delay feature (just in case).

But, if you want to save some money you can go with less expensive receivers and then send the video directly to the TV and switch the HDMI input via your remote control. This approach is a lot less painful if you have a programmable remote. I have a Pronto TSU3000 and I have programmed all of the input switching into macros ... translation, it is easy for me to switch from one component to another without using my receiver for switching. This is just a short term solution, I want to get a HDMI switching receiver just as soon as I see one that has the right mix of features for my installation.

Anyway, congrat's on the TV purchase.

I am frustrated, I will admit. A Fighter Pilot gets that way! But, thank you UCSB for the input. I have a Harman Kardon AVR with RCA switching. I am probably going to stay put until more hit the market. I have a Pioneer from the old days and it works great...can't say enough good about them. It pushes my whole house audio with the HK a stand alone in the FR for just the TV and 6.1. I have a 950 coming as well as a 942 for my HD PVR. Just look at how to hook it all up. I think I have done enough reseatch to get me started. Found that elsewhere.

I am frustrated, I will admit. A Fighter Pilot gets that way! But, thank you UCSB for the input. I have a Harman Kardon AVR with RCA switching. I am probably going to stay put until more hit the market. I have a Pioneer from the old days and it works great...can't say enough good about them. It pushes my whole house audio with the HK a stand alone in the FR for just the TV and 6.1. I have a 950 coming as well as a 942 for my HD PVR. Just look at how to hook it all up. I think I have done enough reseatch to get me started. Found that elsewhere.

Get a Harmony remote. Easiest thing to program and use for a TV with multiple inputs coupled with a receiver. Avoid receiver switching. Go direct to TV with inputs.

... One area I was hoping to write a post on myself was the method we could use to test and report performance with gaming systems. This is always confusing, usually for weeks, and I believe that we have learned enough to do a better job this time around.

UCSB, I'm sure there will be plenty of us in the group who will be eager to assist with the game testing. I'm guessing I'll get my 5078 a few days later than the first batch of 68's that have gone out, but I can volunteer time (as if it'll be so rough!) to test both my Xbox and PS2 over component. I play mostly hockey and racing games, but have other titles and am more than willing to rent a game here or there to try certain things out.

Let us know if you need any suggestions on the process. Looking forward to sharing with everyone! :D

UCSB, I'm sure there will be plenty of us in the group who will be eager to assist with the game testing. I'm guessing I'll get my 5078 a few days later than the first batch of 68's that have gone out, but I can volunteer time (as if it'll be so rough!) to test both my Xbox and PS2 over component. I play mostly hockey and racing games, but have other titles and am more than willing to rent a game here or there to try certain things out.

Let us know if you need any suggestions on the process. Looking forward to sharing with everyone! :D

Great! I hope to write a post in the next day or so about some of the problems we have had in testing gaming in the past and how we might avoid those problems this time around. Don't worry if your 5078 comes in a few days after some of the other units. It is going to take some time to carefully work through all of our open issues.

There has been much talk about the possibility of game lag with the new Samsung sets. Personally, I have no interest in gaming on my TV (I'm leaning toward the 5078). My concern is whether there is any audio/video lag or lip synch problems when using external sources such as a DVD player (especially an upconverter) or HD STB (especially D* HDTivo) when their digital audio is routed from the DVD player or STB to an A/V receiver via digital optical or coax connection and the audio is listened to via the A/V receiver rather than the TV's internal speakers.

Lip sync is definitely one of the top issues that will have to carefully reviewed for each input and source. I wonder if it makes sense to restructure the list of open issues (see POST #3) in priority sequence.

People who don't experience rainbows could probably care less.
Right! :D

I won't interfere. :cool:

Jumpin the gun a little aint we? I mean don't get me wrong, Ive been waiting for these as long as anybody, but unless someone actually Owns one and it's sitting in their living room I dont see how there's an owners thread? haha.. I hear there are some display models around but can you actually buy those? Im not being pessimistic, but if it's still 2-3 weeks away (maybe more) kinda ghey that all these companies said end of June, shipping... I hope people start getting their orders IN! Just to end these rumors I keep hearing about Problems with the Sammy's and Mitsi's.
I agree. How many times have these new cost-cutting wobulated displays been delayed?
I've read one review in AV Guide and it was quite negative.

But now you have given me the idea to start the new Sony SXRD owners (wanna-be) thread. How exciting. I can tell you right now that the picture quality is fantastic too:) It has to be so, as newer is always better!

My apologies to post to an owners thread when no-one owns these units. I guess I'm just plain stupid. But it is nice to read the advertising and speculation.

My generic advice (with any high technology) is to always be second, as there is always bugs or limitations you will live to regret.
Also be wary of posters who are strong supporters of a radical new technology that they have never actually critically viewed.

I'm also trying to figure out what receiver to buy. Even the new ones coming out only have 2 or 3 hdmi inputs. This has lead me to think about doing my switching before the signals reach the receiver. I would like someone to confirm that if I feed the hdmi to the Samsung and then take the audio out from the Samsung to my receiver, that the Samsung internals pass the dolby digital 5.1 - I know there have been issues with hdmi passing 5.1 vice stereo. The receiver I'm leaning toward is the Sunfire Ultimate II - one thing I really like about it is the low heat output. UCSB mentions an audio delay feature. Is lip sync still an issue? Anyone know if the Sunfire receiver has this - I doubt it.

After ~5 years of trying to buy an HDTV system - it's finally coming together, I ordered a 6168 on 7/4. My 50" Pioneer is now 16 years old. Back then, I was hoping to wait for HD, but my previous TV was dying and I needed a replacement. This HD world seems to crawl.

For a stand - I'm going to build a plywood stand laid out how I think I'd like it. And after I've used the setup for a while, build the final stand.

we also will need seperate owner's threads for the xx88, xx68, xx78 threads, not lumped into xxx8 because the models are somewhat different

we also will need seperate owner's threads for the xx88, xx68, xx78 threads, not lumped into xxx8 because the models are somewhat different
PLEASE! PLEASE! PLEASE! Please don't do that. At least, not yet.

Early on, a lot of the questions about these sets will likely be the same (lag, lip sync, PQ, settings, etc.) and I really do not expect the responses/solutions to be much different. Let's keep the thread list simple (and the content confused) until we see that the info/interest for the sets would best be served by separate threads. FWIW.

I'm also trying to figure out what receiver to buy. Even the new ones coming out only have 2 or 3 hdmi inputs. This has lead me to think about doing my switching before the signals reach the receiver. I would like someone to confirm that if I feed the hdmi to the Samsung and then take the audio out from the Samsung to my receiver, that the Samsung internals pass the dolby digital 5.1 - I know there have been issues with hdmi passing 5.1 vice stereo. The receiver I'm leaning toward is the Sunfire Ultimate II - one thing I really like about it is the low heat output. UCSB mentions an audio delay feature. Is lip sync still an issue? Anyone know if the Sunfire receiver has this - I doubt it.

After ~5 years of trying to buy an HDTV system - it's finally coming together, I ordered a 6168 on 7/4. My 50" Pioneer is now 16 years old. Back then, I was hoping to wait for HD, but my previous TV was dying and I needed a replacement. This HD world seems to crawl.

For a stand - I'm going to build a plywood stand laid out how I think I'd like it. And after I've used the setup for a while, build the final stand.

I, too, am in need of a new receiver / amplifier to go with my 6168. After reading and re-reading the owner's manual and reviewing all the connections and switching the xx68 has built in, Ive come to the conclusion that I do not need any external switching at all. I seem to have all I need provided by the tv. My intended setup is like this:
No external tuner/cable box - I'm using the cable card
Samsung DVD-950 connected to HDMI-1
Computer connected via PC-In
8MM VCP connected via AV-1 (S)
Computer doubles as DTV-Recorder via D-Net (1394) with software from Vividlogic ($99). Better than TIVO, since I can archive to DVD.
DV Camera (Samsung) connected via 2nd D-Net (1394)
Audio connected to Receiver / Amplifier via Digital Audio Out and RCA Audio Out.
After all that, I still have plenty of connections left for additional devices.

Anyone - please educate me why I would have a need for external switching. Right now I am considering the Onkyo TX-LR552R which I can buy from U-Bid for $169 with 1 cent shipping (factory refurb).

Where am I going wrong?

I need some expert advice on having a receiver with multiple HDMI inputs. If each input on the TV can be calibrated to its unique source, wouldn’t passing multiple video signals through a receiver to a single TV input defeat this benefit? This would also apply to component inputs.
If the individual sources have their own controls for the calibration settings, you can modify the calibration procedure to ensure appropriate calibration settings are used for each source. If your sources do not have individual calibration controls you might be better off using dedicated inputs rather than using switching.

I asked a similar question in the video processing forum a couple of months ago because I was confused as to which setting to change since the DVD player, video processor and TV all have the same controls for brightness, contrast, etc. I was told that I could use basically two approaches:

#1. Using whatever calibration DVD you want, set the DVD player's controls such that no enhancements to color, contrast, brightness, etc. are implemented. For example, turn off the ability of the DVD to pass blacker than black. Now using ONLY the controls on the TV, calibrate the TV as best you can. Now, calibrate the TV for each of the individual sources but using only the calibration controls on the sources. For example, turn on whatever enhancements you have on your DVD player and calibrate the TV to the best PQ you can get using only the DVD controls. If you use a video processor before the receiver, you could calibrate for sources such as VCRs and STBs, which do not normally (AFSIK) have such controls, using only the calibrations settings of the video processor. Ideally, you'd want the calibration signal to come from the source device though that does not seem practical to me in all situations.

#2. Essentially, set the TV to default settings and do all of the calibration using the source controls. Again, this is a non-starter if the sources do not have the necessary controls.

Let's hope someone with actual experience can verify whether this is worthwhile. FWIW.

(Edit: Hmmm.... Looks like the original posting was deleted.)

we also will need seperate owner's threads for the xx88, xx68, xx78 threads, not lumped into xxx8 because the models are somewhat different

Based on absolutely everything put out by Samsung (including FCC submittals), all of the electronics in the HLRxxx8 sets are identical. The only known difference between any of the sets is that the 67" and larger sets have a 120W/132W bulb versus a 100W/120W bulb in the smaller sizes.

Setting up separate threads would simply dilute the information and make it harder to find.

Based on absolutely everything put out by Samsung (including FCC submittals), all of the electronics in the HLRxxx8 sets are identical. The only known difference between any of the sets is that the 67" and larger sets have a 120W/132W bulb versus a 100W/120W bulb in the smaller sizes.

Setting up separate threads would simply dilute the information and make it harder to find.

Agree 100%.

Yes, But I have constantly asked questions of the experts

I will never acheive membership to that class :) so never replied to questions I saw you posting, but if the 950 model you are referring to is the Outlaw pre, I own one. I never attempted to cable it using the 950 for switching, I prefer to stick to straight shots to everything possible to reduce any possibility of degradation or interference. It did not bother me to loose the OSD once past the heavy interaction of initial setup I can do everything I need from remote conveniently enough to live without that feature. I cable video straight in to display and am happy sticking to that method whenever possible in setups. As regards whether you should use component Vs HDMI, that is a test I believe every display owner should cable for comparison in their own system. (Unfortunately this means purchasing (or borrowing) multiple cable types to determine which connections best suit your system) The electronics can sometimes be subpar in any given unit for one output/input Vs higher quality in the alternative choice. Some systems report better PQ when using component Vs the theoretically higher quality passthru of DVI/HDMI etc. Part of this (I feel) is affected by the source output quality of whatever feed your dealing with (various STB’s/DVD players etc). Therefore I think you should cable trying both your component and HDMI connections to see which provides the better PQ to your display, due to the large variations in quality possible, in the electronics of sources you might own.

FLapilot, stomping your feet, sometimes does wake people up, your type A is showing. :D Forgive posters who get overexcited and hyped on waiting, rubbing hands gleefully together, for first reports valid questions (setup option questions etc) are missed …not really due to rudeness but rather more the distracted all- over-the-map topic jumping and talk which is going on, during the wait period. It does not help you now since you asked your questions in the hopes of being prepared pre-delivery, - but several owners will post eventually who have tested all configurations and found which work best for their particular situation. You have the opportunity of being one of the firsts to do this for others :) since you are in the pre-order Que. I hope you will post your findings once you are setup!

...why I would have a need for external switching...
Where am I going wrong? You would only need "external switching" if you required more of a particular type of input than is present on the TV. For example, a lot of folks believe that superior PQ is achieved by keeping the signal in the digital domain and using HDMI (DVI, etc.) for source output and TV input. Thus if the TV has two HDMI inputs and you have three sources (eg., DVD, STB and game console) that per your perference absolutely must be HDMI to HDMI, then external switching is needed. In your case, at least for now, you are satisfied with your soucre & input combinations, so why bother with switching. Try this. After you get the set, play around with different inputs for the various sources. If you determine for example that a worth while improvement in PQ can be obtained using more HDMI inputs than are available, then consider external switching.

I have a question for you in regard to: Audio connected to Receiver / Amplifier via Digital Audio Out and RCA Audio Out.

I assume the Digital Audio Out and RCA Audio Out are from the TV. Does your cable card pass Dolby Digital 5.1 into the TV. If so, will the TV take the Dolby Digital from the card and pass it out over the Digital Audio Out.

I assume the Digital Audio Out and RCA Audio Out are from the TV. Does your cable card pass Dolby Digital 5.1 into the TV. If so, will the TV take the Dolby Digital from the card and pass it out over the Digital Audio Out.

That is my assumption. I would expect the internal cable tuner to be similar to a cable box, where you split out digital and analog audio to you amplifier. What else would the "Digital Out" be for? The manual seems to indicate it is exactly for that purpose (p.26) - for any source with digital audio (internal cable tuner as well as HDMI inputs). I hope I am correct.

That is my assumption. I would expect the internal cable tuner to be similar to a cable box, where you split out digital and analog audio to you amplifier. What else would the "Digital Out" be for? The manual seems to indicate it is exactly for that purpose (p.26) - for any source with digital audio (internal cable tuner as well as HDMI inputs). I hope I am correct.
Thanks. Sounds good. FYI. On earlier models, without HDMI or digital audio inputs, there were digital audio outs that passed DD 5.1 only for OTA signal inputs. I was just wondering...

donb1948,
Thankyou for your reply on calibration and external switching. I had moved the post to "Samsung 2005 DLP HDTV Discussion --- HLRxxxxW Models" because I thought it might fit that thread better. You must have posted just after I moved it.

Get a Harmony remote. Easiest thing to program and use for a TV with multiple inputs coupled with a receiver. Avoid receiver switching. Go direct to TV with inputs.
Duffin,

I did purchase a Harmony remote to go with the new TV. Works great with my current stuff. Think I will lean down that path.

FLapilot, stomping your feet, sometimes does wake people up, your type A is showing. :D Forgive posters who get overexcited and hyped on [I]waiting, rubbing hands gleefully together, for first reports valid questions (setup option questions etc) are missed …not really due to rudeness but rather more the distracted all- over-the-map topic jumping and talk which is going on, during the wait period. It does not help you now since you asked your questions in the hopes of being prepared pre-delivery, - but several owners will post eventually who have tested all configurations and found which work best for their particular situation. You have the opportunity of being one of the firsts to do this for others :) since you are in the pre-order Que. I hope you will post your findings once you are setup!

Thanks Mary, how could you figure out I was on the right side of Type A! ;) Thanks to all who have provided inputs. I am leaning towards the type setup SpringTX posted. Now, to get ordering the cables. TV will show by FRI I hope.

My apologies to post to an owners thread when no-one owns these units. I guess I'm just plain stupid.

Last I heard, about 37 people had been charged for a TV, so officially that makes them owners. Personally, I'm glad UCSB started the thread and don't mind the banter about donkeys. :) I just wish they had more donkeys since I am probably about 150th on the list for a 5668.

Regarding the gaming, I can definitely assist with this too. I haven't played as much Xbox recently due to other commitments; however, I am willing to take one for the team and hunker down for a couple hours of 'testing'. :D I'm sure my son and nephews won't mind assisting with the testing as well.

I hope you are having a better day today FLAPilot. Like you, I think I am going to hold off on the receiver until the August-October timeframe. If a receiver comes out with HDMI switching that isn't too expensive (less than $700), I will get one then. Otherwise, I will buy a cheaper 7.1 receiver for now and go high-end next year.

Ugh, if you guys are still waiting, when is my donkey going to trot all the way up to the frozen canadian north and give me my TV?

I'm going to wait for a receiver that can handle the new codecs with Blu-Ray and HD-DVD. I'll get an HDMI switch to hold me until then.

I'm going to wait for a receiver that can handle the new codecs with Blu-Ray and HD-DVD. I'll get an HDMI switch to hold me until then.
Do you have a model number of the HDMI switch? I have heard others mention them, but haven't been able to find any more info on them.

CES 2006 is only 172 days away. ;)

I was looking at the Gefen switch. they are supposed to have a new one that switches 4 or 6 HDMI ports. Or I'll just get a 2x1 switch and also use the DVI pass through in my iscanHD. The models ar eon the Gefen website.

I also took a look at the 6178 at Tweeter (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5897253&&#post5897253)

CES 2006 is only 172 days away. ;)
I just complimented your wisdom in another thread, and now I find out that you are actually sadistic. :eek:

I'm going to wait for a receiver that can handle the new codecs with Blu-Ray and HD-DVD. I'll get an HDMI switch to hold me until then.

I am also waiting on Dolby Digital + and DTS-HD although this could
be as far as two years until we receivers with such decoders. Upgrading
for HDMI switching just doesn't make sense to me.

Until the receivers are upgraded is it likely that we can use the analog
inputs from Blu-Ray and HD-DVD DVD playes to take advantage of
the better sound formats.

I'm going to wait for a receiver that can handle the new codecs with Blu-Ray and HD-DVD. I'll get an HDMI switch to hold me until then.

Instead of waiting how about simply doing what I did. I went ahead & purchased the Onkyo TXNR1000, it the industry 1st with a modular circuit board for sliding in/out new PC-Like cards from the back, making it future proof.

Has I believe 10-12 slots.

Just posted by me on the other HLRXXX8 thread:

Anyone living close to Anaheim, CA can have a look right now at an HLR6168W. The Fry's just off the 91 freeway on La Palma has one on display. Amazingly, it was being fed the local HD channel 28 (KCET) via the ATSC tuner hooked up to a rabbit ear antenna. I have to assume that that there was some sort of transmitter or antenna-antenna connection inside the store but who knows. I believe this was a live feed and not a .ts file running off a computer somewhere but there was really no way to tell for sure. OTOH, when I came home and tuned into KCET with my MyHD MD-130 (fed from an outside antenna) it was running what I saw at Fry's so I'm pretty sure that it was a direct over-the-air feed.

As far as the picture goes - it was stunning. The blacks are very black and the color depth just seemed to me to be outstanding. The contrast ratio is higher than what I am used to seeing. There was no way to compare it to any of the other sets in the store without walking 100 feet but it looked like it was better than the 50" Sony and Panny plasmas that Fry's had on display.

The one big negative was that there was very consistent macroblocking on scene transitions that lasted maybe a quarter second. I took a look at the plasmas and they were suffering really severe macroblocking (much worse than the 6168) but it was random and not on scene tranitions. This would indicate low or marginal S/N to me and that could be what was giving the 6168 problems. The picture that I am looking at right now at home via my MD-130 also shows the macroblocking for scene transitions but it is much less noticeable than it was on the 6168.

I would be interested in what others have to say about the macroblocking issue. But other than that it was as advertised even with a rabbit ear antenna feed.

InterceptPoint,

As much as I know about these things (nothing!), I believe that part of the problem is with Channel 28 itself: I had a Philips HDTV and the macroblocking scene transitions were prominent then, as well. I did not see macroblocking on other HDTV stations. Perhaps the Samsung is better at showing this problem due to its good electronics(?).

It looks like his experience was better than mine. The store I was at wasn't set up for OTA. And if it was the picture would have probably still been butchered since they were feeding so many TVs. I'll just have to wait until my TV shows up from TVA in 2 or 3 weeks.

Re KCET (PBS) HD: majority of their programs are widescreen only, not HD. They also multicast a SD subchannel, which may explain the macroblocking. Of course the weak signal (set top antenna) may cause some break ups too.

I had a nice 60 mile round trip drive to the Fry's Electonic store in Anaheim.
The condition is pretty much as described - they have a set of rabbit ears
connected to an antenna input on the back of the TV. No HD feed or DVD
player was hooked up.

The OTA HD on 28.1 PBS looked extremely pixelated and I don't believe this was
macroblocking. The pixelation was in the nature of rectangular blocks anytime
there was movement. It also kept breaking up as it lost signal and this was
observed as "shifts" in the picture. I don't believe this had anything to do with
the 6168 but was a problem with the source being rabbit ears in a building with
a great deal of metal acting as shielding.

As I changed the channels 2.1, 4.1 etc I noticed that this set by far has the best
SD picture I have seen on a rear projection TV. Far better than Dish network SD on
my JVC 52 in. D-ILA. SD on my JVC D-ILA looks washed out and the SD via
rabbit ears on the 6168 had deep color that "popped".

I asked to hook up a DVD player but they would not do so. The sales people
told me that this really shined on 1080p content which they saw via a DVR during
training. I did not inform that the TV does accept a 1080p input other than the
vga input.

The black levels were inky black but I was not able to observe any source
material with dark scenes in order to report on the shadow detail. But if
the 6168 displays DVD 480i anything the Mitsubishi 52in. 1080p DLP I saw
at Ken Krane's in West LA then we are in for a real treat here too.

I wish I had more source's to examine other than rabbit ears but at least I know
I will enjoy SD content on the 6168.

I was unable to observe any screen door effect even at 2 feet away. I did not
see any rainbows ( but have never seen one so I am not the best judge for
this )

Fry's in Anaheim has the 6168 in stock and if you want to buy one you can pull your
truck up to the store tonight and drive away with one. Or they will provide free
delivery in the area this week on Monday or Tuesday. They were also willing
to knock a few hundred dollars off the M.S.R.P.

If anyone else makes it out to Anaheim later this week hopefull they will have a
DVD player hooked up...

Thanks Tony.

I might wait until Wednesday to drop by. Hopefully they will have a DVD player hooked up to it by then.

Then again, I really want to see what the set looks like physically too (I am considering the 6768), so I might not be able to hold out until Wednesday!

If anyone else makes it out to Anaheim later this week hopefull they will have a
DVD player hooked up...
Don't count on it. I'm here at the Fry's source, and from my experience they are constantly finding new ways to show any big wide screen TV at it's worst. :rolleyes:

I went over to Magnolia in San Jose, yesterday, to look at the 50" 1080p Sammy. It actually was a very interesting test, as it turned out that the TV did not have a label on it to identify the model number. But as I went into the back where all the DLP's are located it only took one look around the room to know which one was the 1080p set. The contrast is so much better, the colors are so much deeper that you just know that this one has to be the 1080p set. The sales guy came by 5min. later and confirmed that indeed it was the new 5078.

The blacks are true blacks, and any other DLP next to it can only show shades of grey, where it should really show black.

Again, the color depth is amazing. The contrast just blows you away. I was hesitant about getting a 1080p set and was thinking about just getting the 720p. But now, I am in serious debates with my wife to see if we can spend the extra 1K that it will cost us to get the 1080p set.

I will wait for some of you brand new owners to answer the un-answered questions on page 1 first, before I pull the trigger. Looking forward to all of your posts. Make sure you find time for the forum and don't just watch TV all day long.

:D

Tony thanks a bunch...Hopefully yourself and other forum members will be getting their sets before next weekend...Really looking forward to the reviews to start coming in!

Tony thanks a bunch...Hopefully yourself and other forum members will be getting their sets before next weekend...Really looking forward to the reviews to start coming in!

I hope so too Joe but I wasn't in the first batch of 30 - I am number 60 ( or I
guess that is now number 30 on the new list ). It is probably more likely
sometime the following week...

Fry's in Anaheim has the 6168 in stock and if you want to buy one you can pull your
truck up to the store tonight and drive away with one. Or they will provide free
delivery in the area this week on Monday or Tuesday. They were also willing
to knock a few hundred dollars off the M.S.R.P.

If anyone else makes it out to Anaheim later this week hopefull they will have a
DVD player hooked up...

My wife and I will be flying out to the L.A. / San Diego area on Tuesday. I could always "get lost" in Anaheim, and pull into a friendly store to ask for directions

PLEASE! PLEASE! PLEASE! Please don't do that. At least, not yet.

Early on, a lot of the questions about these sets will likely be the same (lag, lip sync, PQ, settings, etc.) and I really do not expect the responses/solutions to be much different. Let's keep the thread list simple (and the content confused) until we see that the info/interest for the sets would best be served by separate threads. FWIW.

I DO hope to seperate. The reason is, I've read here on the forum that the pedestal tv's (capt Kirk's) seemed to have different/better circuitry than the other Samsung DLP's, as least from observations from ISF technicians. Therefore there may be some settings than can be applied to the pedestals tv's, in the service menu, that can't be applied to the others.

I've read here on the forum that the pedestal tv's (capt Kirk's) seemed to have different/better circuitry than the other Samsung DLP's, as least from observations from ISF technicians.
A lot of people think the "720p" pedestal models have the best PQ because they are the only Samsung models that combine a seven element color wheel, and the HD2++ chip.

I haven't read anything indicating that there was better circuitry in them for things like scaling, color or de-interlacing.

The 1080p pedestal models will not have a chip/wheel advantage. There will be minor differences in performance and that difference could even be negative due to the vertical light engine.

I expect that the questions that come up in any owners thread will apply to all the Samsung 1080p sets because there is no information indicating that there will be internal differences.

my first post...

i made the jump today and just ordered the 5668...can't wait to get it! the preliminary reviews sound like the new 1080p's are stunning.

quick question...
will i be able to watch tv and use the tv as a computer monitor at the same time? either split screen or pip? originally, i was told i could...but i just read a post on another thread that indicated i couldn't. any help???

Has anyone gotten a definitive response from Samsung as to whether or not the 68/78/88 series will accept a 1080p signal over some of its inputs? I apologize if this was definitively answered elsewhere -- I have been searching, honest! as befits a first-time poster...

I did make a call to Samsung tech support today and they gave me an affirmative response, but after thinking it over, I'm wondering if the particular rep I spoke to was confused about my question. I know the TV always *displays* in 1080p format but the question is whether it can *accept* a 1080p signal from outside, and, if so, over what inputs.

I may have to call them back and reask the question. I feel like an idiot for doing so, but I'd rather do that than spend a lot of money on a 1080p set that couldn't actually take a 1080p signal.

Has anyone gotten a definitive response from Samsung as to whether or not the 68/78/88 series will accept a 1080p signal over some of its inputs? I apologize if this was definitively answered elsewhere -- I have been searching, honest! as befits a first-time poster...

I did make a call to Samsung tech support today and they gave me an affirmative response, but after thinking it over, I'm wondering if the particular rep I spoke to was confused about my question. I know the TV always *displays* in 1080p format but the question is whether it can *accept* a 1080p signal from outside, and, if so, over what inputs.

I may have to call them back and reask the question. I feel like an idiot for doing so, but I'd rather do that than spend a lot of money on a 1080p set that couldn't actually take a 1080p signal.

Yes, it will accept 1080p60fps on the vga input. Component and HDMI are
limited to 1080i60fps.

... As I changed the channels 2.1, 4.1 etc I noticed that this set by far has the best
SD picture I have seen on a rear projection TV. Far better than Dish network SD on
my JVC 52 in. D-ILA. SD on my JVC D-ILA looks washed out and the SD via
rabbit ears on the 6168 had deep color that "popped".
...

OTA SD (given a reasonable signal level) will always look better than Dish. E* and D* both compress their SD to the extent that it is very visible on a large screen.

So, don't assume you will get better SD from the this TV until you compare it using the same signal.

SteveTiilikainen, the xxx8 series accept a 1080P signal through the vga input (this is the only certain 1080P 60 Hz input). This however is an analog input. With regard to the digital inputs - as far as anyone knows the HDMI ports will only accept 1080i (I'm sure there will be some testing but 1080P seems unlikely), it appears that the 1394 ports will accept 1080P but no one has tried this yet, and finally if someone should decide to broadcast (extremely unlikely) in 1080P it looks like the set will accept this.

All of the above is subject to people actually receiving the sets and trying things out. :D

OTA SD (given a reasonable signal level) will always look better than Dish. E* and D* both compress their SD to the extent that it is very visible on a large screen.

So, don't assume you will get better SD from the this TV until you compare it using the same signal.

Good point - I have never used rabbit ears or antennae for SD on an
HDTV but the locals did look very acceptable to be.

SteveTiilikainen, the xxx8 series accept a 1080P signal through the vga input (this is the only certain 1080P 60 Hz input). This however is an analog input. With regard to the digital inputs - as far as anyone knows the HDMI ports will only accept 1080i (I'm sure there will be some testing but 1080P seems unlikely), it appears that the 1394 ports will accept 1080P but no one has tried this yet, and finally if someone should decide to broadcast (extremely unlikely) in 1080P it looks like the set will accept this.

To me, that just seems odd. Why build a high-def digital TV capable of displaying 1080p and then not give it the ability to receive 1080p transmission over a digital input? Looks like I'm going to give Samsung another call. =)

All of the above is subject to people actually receiving the sets and trying things out. :D

Isn't that the maddening thing. We just won't know until the early adopters here (all praise the early adopters!!) get their sets and do some testing.

does anyone actually own one of these sets ?

To me, that just seems odd. Why build a high-def digital TV capable of displaying 1080p and then not give it the ability to receive 1080p transmission over a digital input? Looks like I'm going to give Samsung another call. =)

This horse has been beaten to a pulp already. It isn't going to happen over digital inputs. At least not this year. The only people who are going to be able to test 1080p input content are HTPC folks or folks with scalers that can push out a 1080p signal. I surely won't be able to test out any of the 1080p input abilities. I look forward to reading about their results but to me it doesn't matter at all.

My wife and I will be flying out to the L.A. / San Diego area on Tuesday. I could always "get lost" in Anaheim, and pull into a friendly store to ask for directions

We have (2) Fry's in San Diego. I'll be dropping by the San Marcos store after work today for some other items. While I'm there, I'll check to see if they have any of the 1080P's on the floor yet.

does anyone actually own one of these sets ?

I have not yet heard of anyone getting one of these sets into their home, mine is on its way via FedEx, no tracking # yet :(, many others are still waiting for shipping and others have actually seen these sets at stores (but no one has bought one). I will post as soon as I get my set, and follow up as I test different features. I will not be alone.

Just got an update from SEKO from their website tracking and then gave them a call. With any luck I should have my set in my hot little hands on Wednesday. :D :D :D

Hello all,

Many good questions have been posed that need to be answered once these displays become more readily available. I actually have a number of people that have already booked tentative dates to have me calibrate their new xx68/78/88 models so I'll make sure to report my findings from a calibrator's point of view.

The one thing that I can say is that I've found inconsistencies within the service menus of displays even when the specifications say that they should be the same. Such has been the case with Samsung's 720p displays. For example, on some the CCA is always on instead of being switchable resulting in a more difficult and slightly less accurate calibration. On one HLP6163 that I calibrated a few months ago, I found their to be unique grayscale settings for composite, component, and digital inputs but haven't found those capabilities on another one. I've also found that the destination points for the secondaries (yellow, magenta, cyan) can be adjusted on some models while being absent on another like display.

So I'm very curious to see what options are available within the service menu and how consistent they are between the newer models.

Expect a report as soon as I get the opportunity to work on one (probably within 2-3 weeks). :)

Eliab

Hello all,

The one thing that I can say is that I've found inconsistencies within the service menus of displays even when the specifications say that they should be the same. Eliab
Did you find the same differences when the model and the firmware version were the same?

It sounds like Samsung is doing multi-path field testing. :eek:

Eliab, sounds a bit scarry! Is Samsung reading owner's posts here and making changes as they go along? :D

Fry's in San Marcos, CA (Northern San Diego) had the HL-R6168W on the floor if anyone wants to see it. Price was about $900 more than the powerbuy. Ouch!

Only had a few minutes to look at it, I had cold groceries in a hot car, but it was beautiful (HDNet 1080i signal).

This was the only 1080P set they had on the floor.

schaffer,

Well, if the new sets tend to also be inconsistent within their service menus hopefully a simple firmware upgrade will become available soon afterwards. Ideally, it would be great if the sets allowed for independent service-menu grayscale adjustments for all input types as one memory is often insufficient for optimum adjustment of all sources. Personally, I can't wait to get my hands on one of these new displays! :cool:

Eliab

htwaits,

Whoops...forgot to reply to you question!

That was certainly the case with certain Toshiba RPTVS. I'm not sure about Samsung though. Again, certainly differences within the same model but they may have had different firmware versions. However, I'm almost certain that Samsung does not currently offer firmware upgrades for their RPTVs. So depending on when it was manufactured, you may get stuck with a model that doesn't have the more up to date firmware and then not be able to do anything about it.

Eliab

I guess all of us in the Powerbuy will have some of the first sets that were manufactured.

htwaits,

However, I'm almost certain that Samsung does not currently offer firmware upgrades for their RPTVs.

When SethS calibrated our HLP5063 I understood that he could do a software upgrade for the firmware. Our set had the latest firmware for that model so I didn't see him do it.

I may have misunderstood what he said.

htwaits,

That would be great if that were the case. Personally, I don't know of a single case where someone was able to upgrade the firmware on their Samsung RPTV - that is a properly functioning unit. It's possible that someone perhaps was able to get it done while the display was in for servive but again, I don't know of such a case. As incredible as it sounds, I don't believe that Samsung is offering such a service at the present time. Can anyone out there prove me otherwise?

Eliab

Just got an update from SEKO from their website tracking and then gave them a call. With any luck I should have my set in my hot little hands on Wednesday.

schaffer970, did your's ship thursday or friday of last week? Mine was friday to Austin, TX. The tracking last night just changed from Dispatched to In Transit. I'm hoping that that means its close and it didn't just sit in a warehouse for 3 days before starting on its way.

SEKO showed Dispatched and In Transit on Friday. The set arrived in Denver yesterday (tracking shows On Hand Destination Station) and will be transshipped back to Grand Junction (west side of the state) today. From what I can tell, SEKO has their hubs through out the country and then either they or a partner shipping company will actually do the delivery. In my case it appears that RAC Transport will actually bring the set from Denver to Grand Junction and do the delivery. I will be calling RAC (SEKO happily gave me their number) today to get their ETA. :D

Eliab, isn't it recommended that new tv's get "broken in" before a thorough calibration ? Isn't like 1000hrs or something to that effect ?

Hello all,

Many good questions have been posed that need to be answered once these displays become more readily available. I actually have a number of people that have already booked tentative dates to have me calibrate their new xx68/78/88 models so I'll make sure to report my findings from a calibrator's point of view.

The one thing that I can say is that I've found inconsistencies within the service menus of displays even when the specifications say that they should be the same. Such has been the case with Samsung's 720p displays. For example, on some the CCA is always on instead of being switchable resulting in a more difficult and slightly less accurate calibration. On one HLP6163 that I calibrated a few months ago, I found their to be unique grayscale settings for composite, component, and digital inputs but haven't found those capabilities on another one. I've also found that the destination points for the secondaries (yellow, magenta, cyan) can be adjusted on some models while being absent on another like display.

So I'm very curious to see what options are available within the service menu and how consistent they are between the newer models.

Expect a report as soon as I get the opportunity to work on one (probably within 2-3 weeks). :)

Eliab

Look at Ram Electronics

NorthJersey,

There is always a break in period that is recommended with display devices. It varies based on the technology, but for the most part you want to make sure that the display is not a lemon. With a DLP display such as the Samsung we generally recommend about 25-50 hours of solid use, the bulbs are burned in for approximately 50 hours at the factory. In our testing at JKP Labs we have found that the units are pretty stable after 25-50 hours of usage.

Regards,

SEKO showed Dispatched and In Transit on Friday. The set arrived in Denver yesterday (tracking shows On Hand Destination Station) and will be transshipped back to Grand Junction (west side of the state) today. From what I can tell, SEKO has their hubs through out the country and then either they or a partner shipping company will actually do the delivery. In my case it appears that RAC Transport will actually bring the set from Denver to Grand Junction and do the delivery. I will be calling RAC (SEKO happily gave me their number) today to get their ETA. :DWith the HLP PB when my status changed to On Hand Destination...they called and delivered my set that night around 6.30pm...WOW this is getting exciting...soon the reviews will start coming...hopefully soon we will heard the 67" are shipping :D

6168 is in !!! Actually they said that it was in on Friday, I am going to pick it up at the distributor ASAP. This was ordered through a distributor in Southern California.

Yeeh Ha!

Come on John, share the info! Where did you get it?

Come on John, share the info! Where did you get it?He did, he said...distributor in Southern California :rolleyes:

He did, he said...distributor in Southern California :rolleyes:

Which is why I want to know where he got it (I am in So Cal too)

*cough* this thread is useless without pictures of you hugging the box, opening the box, hugging the TV, etc...

:D

- D

A review has been posted in the powerbuy thread by someone who has recieved their set.

Here is a copy and paste job of the review Schaffer is referring to; not all that informative but still cool that they are arriving.


Got 6168W Yesterday!
Finally, got my 6168W yesterday. The delivery guy dropped it off in my garage.

The box is easy to open and the TV is not that heavy (2 people can easily lift it).
The wife was very happy (Phew!! what a relief!!).

The TV is connected to a Dish Network 810 over DVI. I watched some SD and HD content last night and here are my first impressions. This is my first HDTV and it is very exciting..

1. The SD content over DVI will only show with black sidebars. The SD looks ok with some blurry edges in the image. The brightness and contract are very good. The colors look stunning.

2. The HD content (1080i) looks awesome. I can't make out any pixellation or wobulation artifacts (if there are any). I was sitting about 12 feet away and the picture is just beautiful. No rainbows.

3. The sound is very crisp and clear.

4. The remote is simple but why did they have to put that ugly TV Guide logo on it? Is samsung so strapped for cash that they need to get money from TV Guide??

I am going to try some DVDs (LORT, Star wars) tonight using my Oppo player.

All in all, this looks like the beginning of a "beautiful friendship"...

Unfortunately I am getting it from a large distributor that requires that you have an account with them. You need to be a licensed contractor/ home automation installer dude. Sorry about that, the good news is that they are in their So Cal wherehouse, so other retailers should have them soon.

I just got back from Fry's in San Marcos, CA. They had the 6168 on display.

To start with, I have never seen a TV look good at this place. I figure it is their source material/signal splicing.

I spent around 45 min with the TV with no interruption from the sales staff.

The 6168 was receiving a coax signal (ANT1) and a component signal from the same source (cable). Both were fed the same channel which was good for comparison reasons. It was tuned to TNT and appeared to be std def because the picture was not real detailed. It might have been HD...a crime if it was.

Initially, the picture was not that great (although better than everything else in the store: DLP, LCD, plasma). Fairly bright, a bit grainy, some motion artifacts. I immediately went to the menu. Thankfully, it was on the factory preset. I made some adjustments based on my DVE experience (lower contrast, sharpness and brightness). I didn't touch the color adjustments and tint. Tint can only be adjusted through the coax input and not component (I think 480p and above). I turned off the Samsung picture improvements (I forgot what Sammy calls them but there was two). Temperature wise, I lowered it to Warm 1 (slightly bluish and similar to Normal) and Warm 2 (slightly redder). Both seemed adequate and far better than the first two choices. I made the adjustment to both inputs since you can customize each.

These adjustments made a big difference. Jagged edges were gone as well as the motion artifacts. Most of the graininess disappeared was well, but was still present. I performed the "rainbow" test and, am happy to say, the 6168 passed. No rainbows at all. I performed the same test on several Mits. and older Sammy DLPs in the store, and did notice the split second rainbows when looking away and looking back to the TV quickly. Tried it several times with the 6168. No rainbows.

Brightness wise, it wasn't as bright as the JVS DILA, but that was after I turned down the factory adjustments. I assume the JVC was set to blow torch mode.

Picture wise, it looked better than any other LCD or DLP in the area, but I didn't walk away from it saying "wow". Nothing three dimensional or eye popping about it.
As mentioned, I would look to the signal source before making a final assessment. Based on history, this store could make a $40k three chip projector with the best external scaler look horrendous. The local Tweeters should have the 68 and/or 78 in stores this week, so I will take a look this weekend.

I have a 6168 on order with TVA (6/6 order date, no call yet). I'm not worried about today's results. Once I take it through a DVS session, and eventually a professional calibration, the new Sammy's will look great.

Does anyone know if the HLRxxx8 sets can be used concurrently with the digital cablecard and an antenna for OTA HD broadcasts? (OTA for any channels I can get in HD and digital cable for everything else)

thanks

I just got back from Fry's in San Marcos, CA. They had the 6168 on display.

To start with, I have never seen a TV look good at this place. I figure it is their source material/signal splicing.

I spent around 45 min with the TV with no interruption from the sales staff.

The 6168 was receiving a coax signal (ANT1) and a component signal from the same source (cable). Both were fed the same channel which was good for comparison reasons. It was tuned to TNT and appeared to be std def because the picture was not real detailed. It might have been HD...a crime if it was.

Initially, the picture was not that great (although better than everything else in the store: DLP, LCD, plasma). Fairly bright, a bit grainy, some motion artifacts. I immediately went to the menu. Thankfully, it was on the factory preset. I made some adjustments based on my DVE experience (lower contrast, sharpness and brightness). I didn't touch the color adjustments and tint. Tint can only be adjusted through the coax input and not component (I think 480p and above). I turned off the Samsung picture improvements (I forgot what Sammy calls them but there was two). Temperature wise, I lowered it to Warm 1 (slightly bluish and similar to Normal) and Warm 2 (slightly redder). Both seemed adequate and far better than the first two choices. I made the adjustment to both inputs since you can customize each.

These adjustments made a big difference. Jagged edges were gone as well as the motion artifacts. Most of the graininess disappeared was well, but was still present. I performed the "rainbow" test and, am happy to say, the 6168 passed. No rainbows at all. I performed the same test on several Mits. and older Sammy DLPs in the store, and did notice the split second rainbows when looking away and looking back to the TV quickly. Tried it several times with the 6168. No rainbows.

Brightness wise, it wasn't as bright as the JVS DILA, but that was after I turned down the factory adjustments. I assume the JVC was set to blow torch mode.

Picture wise, it looked better than any other LCD or DLP in the area, but I didn't walk away from it saying "wow". Nothing three dimensional or eye popping about it.
As mentioned, I would look to the signal source before making a final assessment. Based on history, this store could make a $40k three chip projector with the best external scaler look horrendous. The local Tweeters should have the 68 and/or 78 in stores this week, so I will take a look this weekend.

I have a 6168 on order with TVA (6/6 order date, no call yet). I'm not worried about today's results. Once I take it through a DVS session, and eventually a professional calibration, the new Sammy's will look great.

TNTHD rarely broadcasts anything other than Sports in HD...

Well I couldn't find the answer to my question in the owners manual, but I think I found the answer to somebody else's... Looks like there is a "game mode"... probably shortcuts some of the processing in the graphics engine to reduce the game lag

Everytime I go to the Fry's here in Canoga Park, CA, I wonder how anyone could ever buy a television from them. Their signals are so bad, half the sets have just plain static on them, and their prices are almost always just at MSRP, sales are rarely visible, although Im sure theyd try to meet a BB price or CC, the only way I can see anyone buying a TV from this store is by already knowing exactly what set you want and accidentally walking into a FRY's instead of another store. I do like FRY's though, just their TV dept. is etrocious.

Good write up ByrneBV..

this was my first point way back when, a smaller 1080p set is not going to look much if any better than 720p set... the larger sets 60 and up you will deffinatly notice a sharper picture.

Having now seen a 5078 next to a 5067 at 8-10' viewing distance I'm now more inclined to agree with those that claim that a 1080p 50" set at > 8' may not be such a great thing. Although the PQ of the 5078 was a bit better (brighter, slightly better colors, a bit sharper) than the 5067 it was not significantly better.
I would like to know how well these new 50" displays handle various sources and if they too appear to only be marginally better than when displayed on 720p models. My other big question is if they are any better/worse from a calibrating point of view as well. Unfortunately, I won't know the answer to that one until I personally get to work on one (2-3 weeks)!

Eliab

I just got back from Fry's in San Marcos, CA. They had the 6168 on display.

To start with, I have never seen a TV look good at this place. I figure it is their source material/signal splicing.

I spent around 45 min with the TV with no interruption from the sales staff.

The 6168 was receiving a coax signal (ANT1) and a component signal from the same source (cable). Both were fed the same channel which was good for comparison reasons. It was tuned to TNT and appeared to be std def because the picture was not real detailed. It might have been HD...a crime if it was.

Initially, the picture was not that great (although better than everything else in the store: DLP, LCD, plasma). Fairly bright, a bit grainy, some motion artifacts. I immediately went to the menu. Thankfully, it was on the factory preset. I made some adjustments based on my DVE experience (lower contrast, sharpness and brightness). I didn't touch the color adjustments and tint. Tint can only be adjusted through the coax input and not component (I think 480p and above). I turned off the Samsung picture improvements (I forgot what Sammy calls them but there was two). Temperature wise, I lowered it to Warm 1 (slightly bluish and similar to Normal) and Warm 2 (slightly redder). Both seemed adequate and far better than the first two choices. I made the adjustment to both inputs since you can customize each.

These adjustments made a big difference. Jagged edges were gone as well as the motion artifacts. Most of the graininess disappeared was well, but was still present. I performed the "rainbow" test and, am happy to say, the 6168 passed. No rainbows at all. I performed the same test on several Mits. and older Sammy DLPs in the store, and did notice the split second rainbows when looking away and looking back to the TV quickly. Tried it several times with the 6168. No rainbows.

Brightness wise, it wasn't as bright as the JVS DILA, but that was after I turned down the factory adjustments. I assume the JVC was set to blow torch mode.

Picture wise, it looked better than any other LCD or DLP in the area, but I didn't walk away from it saying "wow". Nothing three dimensional or eye popping about it.
As mentioned, I would look to the signal source before making a final assessment. Based on history, this store could make a $40k three chip projector with the best external scaler look horrendous. The local Tweeters should have the 68 and/or 78 in stores this week, so I will take a look this weekend.

I have a 6168 on order with TVA (6/6 order date, no call yet). I'm not worried about today's results. Once I take it through a DVS session, and eventually a professional calibration, the new Sammy's will look great.

Well, I'll have to go back and see how different it looks from when I saw it Monday evening!

Having now seen a 5078 next to a 5067 at 8-10' viewing distance I'm now more inclined to agree with those that claim that a 1080p 50" set at > 8' may not be such a great thing. Although the PQ of the 5078 was a bit better (brighter, slightly better colors, a bit sharper) than the 5067 it was not significantly better. I didn't notice too much of a difference in blacks or shadow detail in the 5078 over the 5067, probably due to the viewing room having bright overhead lights. Both were set to Standard picture mode. I knocked Contrast down a few clicks but otherwise didn't adjust the picture settings. Feed was HDNet at your typical store quality. All in all, it wasn't a night and day difference. If I had not known in advance that the 5078 was a 1080p set I would probably not have guessed it was. Its not that it isn't a great TV (it is), it just that it aside from having an extra HDMI input, I'm not sure the overall PQ improvement is worth the extra $1,000. The same concern would probably not be the case for bigger screen sizes at closer viewing distances. So, my advice to those of you that are considering the 50" 1080p is to be sure to give it a good viewing at your typical viewing distance to make sure you see a better PQ than on the 50" 720p sets and that it is worth the extra $1,000 you'll pay. I have not yet decided for sure if I'll go with the 5078 or just the 5067.

Edit: Source was HDNet but at your typical store HD loop quality (average). It was the end of the Nascar program with some between-shows filler. No way to change the channel. Connection was via component. The TV had just been put out (I was the first person to see it) so could probably have benefitted from basic configuration and calibration that I didn't have time to do.

P.S. I am not panning this TV, more pointing out that there may be questionable incremental value to a 50" 1080p set.

Where did you compare the two 50" sets?

Wondering if anyone has had the chance to test the xx78 unit with a PS2 or Xbox yet? I'm actually more interested in results w/the PS2, as my current samsung DLP does fine with HD Xbox content; i'm curious to see how well it works on the PS2 stuff that is lagging for me right now. (Particularly Japanese rhythm/music games, for those interested)

Wow. I have been lurking here for several months waiting for the 6168. I had to go samsung since I am able to use the samsung employee discount for one purchase this year. The 6168 posted on their employee website last friday so I went ahead and ordered one. My wife called me at work just a few minutes ago and said they called and are to deliver the tv today! Wow, how is that for a first post? I have not even called time warner yet for a hd feed.

I got my 6168W two days ago. I have been watching mainly SD content (both Satellite and OTA) and some HD. I have watched SD over both the DVI and S-Video interfaces. Over DVI, the SD content is shown either in 16:9 or 4:3 format with black sidebars. With S-video, there are other choices (Panoramic, Zoom1 and Zoom2).

I am not a DVE expert so I need some suggestions on improving the SD PQ over S-Video. Specifically, I am seeing motion artifacts, blurry edges etc when I switch to Zoom1 mode (i.e 16:9 stretched horizontally to fill the screen, crops the image vertically).


V

I am not a DVE expert so I need some suggestions on improving the SD PQ over S-Video. V

Congrats on your new TV! Why in the WORLD would you even CONSIDER using the S-video inputs?!

The image is just not going to look good unless you feed that TV a component signal or better.

Complaining about the quality of S-video on a 1080p TV is like complaining about the off road performance of your Corvette. It's simply not designed for that application...

Congrats on your new TV! Why in the WORLD would you even CONSIDER using the S-video inputs?!

The image is just not going to look good unless you feed that TV a component signal or better.

Complaining about the quality of S-video on a 1080p TV is like complaining about the off road performance of your Corvette. It's simply not designed for that application...

think you being harsh on vilmap as you can see they are not experts and asking for advice.I myself would be hurt by those remarks as i am new to this HD stuff

I got my 6168W two days ago. I have been watching mainly SD content (both Satellite and OTA) and some HD. I have watched SD over both the DVI and S-Video interfaces. Over DVI, the SD content is shown either in 16:9 or 4:3 format with black sidebars. With S-video, there are other choices (Panoramic, Zoom1 and Zoom2).

In HDMI (DVI) mode, your source controls the black bars. In other words, your TV is receiving the full screen, including bars, from your source (eg, cable box or satellite receiver) and does not generate the bars. Check your satellite receiver/cable box for the option to change bar color, or to zoom. Also have the box output 1080i (rather than 720p or 480i/p) to get maximum quality from your new TV.

I'm not sure what device you are using svideo on, but I highly recommend using component on that device, if it supports it (or even better, HDMI/DVI). SVideo will looked markedly bad on the tv compared to higher quality inputs like component/hdmi.

Trying to size your picture Fullscreen on SD 4:3 broadcast, and you’d rather have proportionally correct actors cropped than a tiny bit more resolution?

By Manual: “DTV or Component (720p, 1080i)” your zooms will be unavailable. The only choice here is 16:9 Vs 4:3.
If you switch to an analog feed; an analog broadcast channel source through your STB's OTA tuner via component cables to display (Vs any of the digital channels) you should be able to use your zooms again. (although I just saw the 61” at Frys running off an OTA last night and your PQ will suffer on an analog local broadcast vs a Digital.)

My question for a owner is if it is possible to select a lower resolution manually when receiving a Digital signal. On my current 16:9 set, if the source is digital 720p and above locks the pic into Full (which will stretch unacceptably if trying to view a non-pillared 4:3 broadcast at 16:9 full) I might drop the resolution back down so that I can size the picture and reduce the stretch. When I’m dealing with a very poor SBP digital feed, very occasionally a lower resolution due to the conversions is a cleaner PQ than a higher resolution applied to that source.

Can any confirm if digital broadcasts on this set can be manually downrezed to allow the user a little broader manipulation when attempting to clean up low quality feeds and/or zoom to enlarge a 4:3 broadcast? OR do the 1080p Samsungs upconvert all Digital sources to its internal upscaled 1080p without the ability to lockin 480p/720p/1080I if desired.

I too am a rookie. What is the difference between component and composite inputs?

I got my 6168W two days ago. I have been watching mainly SD content (both Satellite and OTA) and some HD. I have watched SD over both the DVI and S-Video interfaces. Over DVI, the SD content is shown either in 16:9 or 4:3 format with black sidebars. With S-video, there are other choices (Panoramic, Zoom1 and Zoom2).

I am not a DVE expert so I need some suggestions on improving the SD PQ over S-Video. Specifically, I am seeing motion artifacts, blurry edges etc when I switch to Zoom1 mode (i.e 16:9 stretched horizontally to fill the screen, crops the image vertically).


V

I found this site to be helpful titled Poor SD on HDTV
http://www.highdefinitionblog.com/?page_id=5

I too am a rookie. What is the difference between component and composite inputs?

This site was informative titled Audio & Video Connections Guide
http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/audioprinciples/interconnects/audiovideocables.php
Gives you the overview all all connections

As mentioned, I would look to the signal source before making a final assessment. Based on history, this store could make a $40k three chip projector with the best external scaler look horrendous. The local Tweeters should have the 68 and/or 78 in stores this week, so I will take a look this weekend.I know what you mean. My Fry's would serve champagne in a dixie cup. Thanks for the review.

I found this site to be helpful titled Poor SD on HDTV
http://www.highdefinitionblog.com/?page_id=5

Thanks _Matt__, The article is very informative. In particular, following paragraph applies to my situation:

" Most complaints seem to be that the Dish Network SD picture quality is far worse than Directv. Many people with HD service have threatened to switch back to Directv. The issue seems to be the fault of the 811 receiver. One person was able to get a Dish tech to hook up a 311 receiver that produced as good a picture as the Directv receiver. He was able to talk Dish into letting him keep the 311 in addition to the 811 for a year. This leads to the conclusion that the processor in the 811 may be slower in decompressing the mpeg2 data stream than the 311."

I have Dish 811 and I tried using both DVI and S-Video connections for SD content.
I also have a spare Dish 311 and I will try it out to see if SD looks better.

In general, the OTA SD (which goes through 811) looks a little better than an SD channel on 811.

I know what you mean. My Fry's would serve champagne in a dixie cup. Thanks for the review.
Only after pouring it the day before serving. :rolleyes:

Got my set this afternoon and got it plugged in and connected to the cable box. Could only watch for a minute but, Matchstick Men was playing on HBOHD. There is a scene where the main characters are in a bar talking. One of them has a black shirt on with a black pattern in it. Obviously you could see the pattern in the shirt. Simply amazing! :D :D :D

Got my set this afternoon and got it plugged in and connected to the cable box. Could only watch for a minute but, Matchstick Men was playing on HBOHD. There is a scene where the main characters are in a bar talking. One of them has a black shirt on with a black pattern in it. Obviously you could see the pattern in the shirt. Simply amazing! :D :D :D

OK, buddy, we expect to hear a lot more SOON!

think you being harsh on vilmap as you can see they are not experts and asking for advice.I myself would be hurt by those remarks as i am new to this HD stuff

I don't see how what I said could be hurtful. I'm just trying to help the guy out. I complemented him and gave him some advice.

I'm also trying to satisfy my curiosity. I am puzzled why someone would spend thousand of dollars to buy one of the best display devices money can buy and then use this device to display one of the worst quality signals money can buy. I am not being sarcastic. I really want to learn what the situation is to increase my knowledge of home theater and maybe help the guy out.

Just got my 5668 from TVA, here is a box shot. My laptop is in frame on AVS, luckily I was able to work at home on it so I could get the TV.

I'll keep you updated as I set up and start testing the TV...

I know everyone is interested in game lag but I can't really test that until I get some help putting the TV on the shelf so I can't test my GC or PS2 yet (no X box sorry)

For testing I just hooked up my Powerbookvia VGA (1920x1080), I don't have a DVI/HDMI cable until my HD950 shows up. So far the TV has passed the A New Hope test and the I Love Lucy test (need to test rainbows so I put in a black and white DVD). No rainbows yet. Screen looks good. I will give more details once I get my normal equipment setup (I am now listening through my powerbook speakers OUCH) and watch a few movies.

Game tests are a priority I got Super Monkey Ball 2, which should test my GC lag good (thats the closest thing to a sports game I got ) and I guess Dance Dance Revolution will be pefect (wife's game not mine :D ) for testing the PS2 but I don't have a component cable for it yet.

I'll keep you informed :)

I don't see how what I said could be hurtful. I'm just trying to help the guy out. I complemented him and gave him some advice.

I'm also trying to satisfy my curiosity. I am puzzled why someone would spend thousand of dollars to buy one of the best display devices money can buy and then use this device to display one of the worst quality signals money can buy. I am not being sarcastic. I really want to learn what the situation is to increase my knowledge of home theater and maybe help the guy out.

Probably doesn't have a high-def source yet and is trying to maximize the picture quality he's got; most SD satellite/cable boxes max out at an s-video output, and he's probably just trying to make cable or sat more watchable. I've had HD for ~3 years and 90% of what I still watch is stretched SD from my DirecTivo. It's not as if we're overwhelmed with compelling HD content, so you still want to be able to make SD look acceptable.

My 6168 was delivered sometime today. I had been concerned it wasn't going to get to me before I leave for China next week, after I got the call from TVA on Monday, but they said it should definitely make it.

I'm only about 100 miles from sack-o-tomatoes, so it seemed a safe bet.

I did start to get a little worried when I never got any update or call from the freight company (my order status stayed at FedEx waiting for tracking #), but it seems they just attempted delivery--luckily our nanny was there to receive it. Presumably they would have called if no one was home.

I wish I could share some information about the set, but I only had time to unpack it before heading back to work. All I can say is it looks nice, and its _big_.

As soon as I've done any set up on it at all, I'll post my findings on game lag and/or lip sync--I've got a PS2 and a 5.1 sound system. I'm planning on using my receivers component switching for most inputs, maybe only the DVD on HDMI, and possibly the PS2 on another component input if the GAME mode is required. I'm on Comcast regular digital cable for the time being, probably switch to Comcast HD when I get back from my vacation.

-se

I'm also trying to satisfy my curiosity. I am puzzled why someone would spend thousand of dollars to buy one of the best display devices money can buy and then use this device to display one of the worst quality signals money can buy.

Heard on a talk show the other day: People don't eat Velveeta because they are poor; they eat it because they do not know any better.

Ok I pull myself away from the 6168 for a few minutes to give some impressions.

For anyone hopping rainbows were a thing of the past - sorry, under certain conditions they are still there. We watched Ghost Hunting (or some such thing) on SciFi channel standard def. They were in the dark and filming in black and white. I saw some rainbows - not enough to bother me in any significant way but they were there. Have also seen them on a few other occasions - typically high contrast lots of movement. Again nothing that bothers me in any way.

In setting up connections I have the set pulled out from the wall and was watching from ~7 feet. An old cheap (well not so cheap at the time) DVD player connected via component. All I can say is the picture is outstanding! I have made no changes to the settings. Out of the box the settings are set to standard, warm1. Not bad. I have spent a few minutes watching a DVD that someone in another thread put together to show off your home theater. Consists of about 20 clips of different things. Optical from the DVD player to an Onkyo AVR. I have seen absolutely no audio delay in any of the clips.

Standard definition from Moto 6412 STB is certainly acceptable at 9'. Digital better than analog and HI Def everything you could expect. Again optical from the STB to the Onkyo. Have seen no audio delay so far. Baseball on ESPN HD is extremely good.

I'm sure my son will get the HD connection pack for his XBox tomorrow and we can report on how that goes.

Latter - it's back to watching and pushing buttons to see what happens! :D :D :D :D :D

Here's a picture of the setup!

Why would anyone think rainbows be cured with this model?

Unless they get rid of the wheel or make it spin at like 30,000 RPM you'll see em.

Here's a picture of the setup!

Very cool! Awesome stand!

And here I thought I was styling with the matching stand :-)

schaffer970,
I received my 6168 yesterday. i am running hdmi from my Denon 3910 DVD to the 6168 and then have an optical digital audio cable from the TV to my receiver. I can't access the the digital output (dolby or pcm) item in the sound control menu. Can you?

schaffer970,
I received my 6168 yesterday. i am running hdmi from my Denon 3910 DVD to the 6168 and then have an optical digital audio cable from the TV to my receiver. I can't access the the digital output (dolby or pcm) item in the sound control menu. Can you?

Maddogs - how is the PQ from the Denon 3910 to the 6168? Are you using
YCbCr 1080i over HDMI settings?

i am no expert since this is my first hdtv, but my impressions thus far (set up the tv today) are awesome. The standard channels are excellent and the hd channels are absolutely amazing. Even the dvds on a cheap dvd player are excellent. I have not seen any rainbows or anything unusual thus far. Maybe the experts can find fault, but if this is a first hdtv like mine, you will be blown away. I am using tw cable with composite connections.

Maddogs - how is the PQ from the Denon 3910 to the 6168? Are you using
YCbCr 1080i over HDMI settings?

One more question - please :-)

Do you see any macroblocking from the Denon DVD-3910?

I'm interested in ordering one of these TVs sometime soon. Are there any actual differences between the 5668/5678 models (besides aesthetics). If you compare the brochures, there seems to be only one functional difference between the two, and that is that the 5678 model has "Digital PIP" and "Analog PIP" listed as features, whereas the 5668 only has "PIP". However, the posts at the top of other big Samsung thread indicate that the only differences are aesthetic.

Thanks in advance.

A Quick update...

Got my TV installed, watched an I love Lucy episode and then Dark City with my wife. She saw rainbows during one scene. Didn't know my Dark City wasn't anamorphic :(. I'll try out my game systems and report back later.

Someone said the chipset was different on the 88 vs 5668/78. I haven't seen any posts from anyone having the 5688.

The difference in the 68 vs. the 78 is that the 68 has the floating screen which seperates the screen from the speakers. Other than that they are the same HDTV.

Anyone have the 5688??

I'm interested in ordering one of these TVs sometime soon. Are there any actual differences between the 5668/5678 models (besides aesthetics).

As far as we know, they are exactly the same. The FCC filings for the internal block diagrams were very similar or exactly the same.

OK guys any game lag? I am sure you now have your sets and you are totally immersed, step away from the new toy for a few minutes to let us know how it is working. Thanks to those that have posted already. Mine will be here before lunch tomorrow. Spoke to Matheson Freight who will be delivering it along with a Samsung 950 DVD so I will report tomorrow night on how that works via HDMI.

Congrats to you early recipients - just don't forget about us still waiting. :)

Additional photos would be great as well.

I went to the Bellevue, WA Magnolia store. They had a HL-R5678W on display right next to a similar sized Mits DLP and an older Sammy HLN ( also similar sized ).

The difference in contrast was very noticable. The source was 1080i from HDNet ( some cop show ). You could really see a big difference between the 720p and 1080p sets when text was displayed, or when looking at a medium shot of someone's face.

Black levels were noticable better on the 78 series as well. Getting right next to the screen I could only slightly see the diamond pattern. No SDE was detectable to me.

Since the TV was uncalibrated I will not comment on the colors except to say the colors did not look over saturated or too out of balance for being in a default configuration.


One more thing: I stood back and tried to look at as many TVs as possible simultaneously. I did not see any lag compared to the other TVs next to it.


Hopefully my Donkey is getting close to Seattle.

Game Lag Report:

PS2 connected via S-Video playing Dance Dance Revolution no lag was noticed. Seems good.

GC connected via Component playing Super Monkey Ball 2 I think I noticed some lag playing Monkey Bowling but I know I suck at it so it may not have been worse than usual, other games tried were Zelda and Mario, no lag noticed. I don't have any 'sports' type timing games I am good at on the Gamecube so I don't know how better to test.

Overall I don't think there is signifcant lag that will hurt my gameplay (maybe if I were better or played more timing oriented games..)

Hi all --

I've just upgraded from a Sony 36" XBR 400 (4:3) with anamorphic squeeze to the brand new 5078. I've only been able to play for one night so far.

My setup has a DVD player inputing component 480p, PS/2 over component 480i, TiVo through my AMP inputting S-Video, Mac mini inputing through VGA, and cable.

First impressions. Its big and bright. I haven't played with the picture setup, other than switching them all to movie, which is much more to my liking. SD TV and especially SD from TiVo shows a lot more artifacts than my old TV, especially when viewed in the default standard mode. I was liking the zoom mode for watching 16x9 shows on SD.

DVD's look fantastic. No complaints there.

PS/2 looks great too. I haven't noticed a lag, but only tried one game.

I do have a big lip sync problem on the TiVo. Audio is going through the amp, video through the S-Video input. I'll need to figure out a work around for this. I'm trying to check if I have a lip sync problem on the DVD, but I haven't seen one.

The mac mini looks great -- much better than running s-video on the Sony :-). I can run at 1080p, but the fonts are a little small, so I think I'll go somewhere between 1280x720 or higher for now.

Finally, as a bizarre bonus, I seem to be picking up a bunch of HD cable channels on my cable TV feed. I guess the decoder is decoding without subscribing. Now that looks phenominal.

I'm going to read more about the lipsync issues in the other thread.

A Quick update...

Got my TV installed, watched an I love Lucy episode and then Dark City with my wife. She saw rainbows during one scene. Didn't know my Dark City wasn't anamorphic :(. I'll try out my game systems and report back later.
You made me go look at mine and it does not state anamorphic or enhanced either but I thougt it was. I very rarely buy anything thats not. I bought this disk when it first came out so not sure if there is a more recent one. I did note that it is 2.35 so it would have to be real small on your screen without one of the zoom modes.

You made me go look at mine and it does not state anamorphic or enhanced either but I thougt it was. I very rarely buy anything thats not. I bought this disk when it first came out so not sure if there is a more recent one. I did note that it is 2.35 so it would have to be real small on your screen without one of the zoom modes.

Yeah we switched to zoom1 and it still looked pretty good at first I thought I saw some upscaling issues but they either stopped or I got used to them... It appears that the current edition is anamorphic, I think I'll upgrade, or perhaps just wait for the HD version... I'll check my local Hollywood Video (I got MVP) maybe I can compare it with my copy...

Here's a picture of the setup!Whoa - whats that stand you got? Seriously I like the looks of it.

Oh ya - nice TV too! ;)

You made me go look at mine and it does not state anamorphic or enhanced either but I thougt it was.

The IMDb shows the US version to be Anamorphic and Pan & Scan. I'm not sure if that means there should be two copies on a two sided disk or that there were two versions sold.

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0118929/dvd

Netflix and Amazon just shows it as widescreen.

I moved it to the top of my queue. :)

schaffer, any report on xbox games having some sort of lag or anything, this is the only thing stopping me from buying the 6168 thanks

tonydeluce, i am running the hdmi 1080i as RGB right now and the PQ is outstanding. like many others work is getting in the way and I have to go out of town starting tomorrow through the weekend so I have not had the time I wished to play with the settings. What's you thoughts on the best method, RGB or YCbCr?

schaffer,

Nice setup... :) That's a pretty cool AV stand. Who makes it?

Eliab

It will accept both formats over the HDMI input?

schaffer,

Nice setup... :) That's a pretty cool AV stand. Who makes it?

Eliab

Based on his sig, he makes it :)

Hey, I really appreciate the comments on the stand. I actually built it myself. Click on my signature - there are pictures of the construction. It is patterned after the Chicane 4 (http://www.soundations.com/product.asp?loc=HT&c=c) which several people put under their Qualia's. Cost is ~$2,500. I made mine for ~$800 and a couple of weekends of work. Most of the cost was in the aluminum t-slot frame and the glass. Anyone looking to build your own, give me a shout. :D

Did see some audio lag last night on Letterman - out here in the sticks we don't have network HD so I think it was source related. I'll keep looking and testing.

Maddogs, haven't had a chance to look yet. I'll let you know!

Here is a picture of my TV setup...

The TV has a VGA cable (for plugging in laptop), a component cable coming from an audio authority 4x1 component auto-switch with the following connections.

1) Sony 400 Disc DVD changer via Component, Coax Audio
2) Gamecube via Component, Stereo Audio
3) Empty, will be PS2 via Component when I buy the cable, audio is PS2 via Toslink.
4) Video output from Bose 321 Receiver (a gift, don't judge me :D) via component (also a DVD player)

The audio outputs of the Audio authority goes to a coax and stereo inputs on the Bose.

The TV also has an S-Video connection to a cheap 4x1 Svideo manual-switch with my dreamcast on it via RCA and the video for my PS2 (until I get a component cable) via S-video. This is also where I can easilly plug in other assorted devices such as my pac man in a joystick game.

The audio output of the S-video switch goes to a Stereo input on the Bose.

When my HD950 arrives I will plug it in via HDMI along with the extra HDMI/DVI cable for testing digital PC output. I also have to run a 100 ft ethernet cable behind there into the atic and to my router in the office.

There is also a Toslink on the bose receiver for connection to a HTPC should I get one before I ditch the bose. That will be suplemented by both DVI and VGA (see above) for testing PC output.

I am thinking I need a Harmony remote soon. :D

John_Jones,

Who makes that TV stand? It looks like it would be perfect for my apartment.

tonydeluce, i am running the hdmi 1080i as RGB right now and the PQ is outstanding. like many others work is getting in the way and I have to go out of town starting tomorrow through the weekend so I have not had the time I wished to play with the settings. What's you thoughts on the best method, RGB or YCbCr?

On the Denon DVD-3910 owners thread the consensus is YCbCr and it
seems "slightly" better to me too.

Have you notice any macroblocking from the 3910 on your new set?

This will appear as "noise" in relatively dark scenes.

schaffer970,
I received my 6168 yesterday. i am running hdmi from my Denon 3910 DVD to the 6168 and then have an optical digital audio cable from the TV to my receiver. I can't access the the digital output (dolby or pcm) item in the sound control menu. Can you?

Use the optical cable to go from your Denon to your receiver, rather than from the TV to the receiver. You only need to use the optical-out of the TV of you use the TV's built in tuner to watch TV, and want to output that sound to your receiver. Otherwise, go directly from source to receiver.

Trying to size your picture Fullscreen on SD 4:3 broadcast, and you’d rather have proportionally correct actors cropped than a tiny bit more resolution?

By Manual: “DTV or Component (720p, 1080i)” your zooms will be unavailable. The only choice here is 16:9 Vs 4:3.
If you switch to an analog feed; an analog broadcast channel source through your STB's OTA tuner via component cables to display (Vs any of the digital channels) you should be able to use your zooms again. (although I just saw the 61” at Frys running off an OTA last night and your PQ will suffer on an analog local broadcast vs a Digital.)

My question for a owner is if it is possible to select a lower resolution manually when receiving a Digital signal. On my current 16:9 set, if the source is digital 720p and above locks the pic into Full (which will stretch unacceptably if trying to view a non-pillared 4:3 broadcast at 16:9 full) I might drop the resolution back down so that I can size the picture and reduce the stretch. When I’m dealing with a very poor SBP digital feed, very occasionally a lower resolution due to the conversions is a cleaner PQ than a higher resolution applied to that source.

Can any confirm if digital broadcasts on this set can be manually downrezed to allow the user a little broader manipulation when attempting to clean up low quality feeds and/or zoom to enlarge a 4:3 broadcast? OR do the 1080p Samsungs upconvert all Digital sources to its internal upscaled 1080p without the ability to lockin 480p/720p/1080I if desired.


are you using a cable box or satellite box ? what model ? On my cable 8300hd box you have the option of enabling all different resolutions (480i, 480i wide, 480p, 480p wide, 720p, 1080i) and then choosing what resolution to use.

John_Jones,

Who makes that TV stand? It looks like it would be perfect for my apartment.

It is a Bush VS42642-02 it can be found at best buy.
To fit my Sony DVD changer I had to redrill some holes to drop the lower shelf and raise the upper shelf each by 1/4" and it still barely fit...

I am happy with it, my space was tight (see picture) so it was the only one I found that would work.

John_Jones_CA, looks nice! I really like the fit. How much space do you have between the top of the set and the bottom of the shelf? Just thinking about keeping air moving for cooling. Hope you are enjoying! :D

Here is a picture of my TV setup...

The TV has a VGA cable (for plugging in laptop), a component cable coming from an audio authority 4x1 component auto-switch with the following connections.

1) Sony 400 Disc DVD changer via Component, Coax Audio
2) Gamecube via Component, Stereo Audio
3) Empty, will be PS2 via Component when I buy the cable, audio is PS2 via Toslink.
4) Video output from Bose 321 Receiver (a gift, don't judge me :D) via component (also a DVD player)

The audio outputs of the Audio authority goes to a coax and stereo inputs on the Bose.

The TV also has an S-Video connection to a cheap 4x1 Svideo manual-switch with my dreamcast on it via RCA and the video for my PS2 (until I get a component cable) via S-video. This is also where I can easilly plug in other assorted devices such as my pac man in a joystick game.

The audio output of the S-video switch goes to a Stereo input on the Bose.

When my HD950 arrives I will plug it in via HDMI along with the extra HDMI/DVI cable for testing digital PC output. I also have to run a 100 ft ethernet cable behind there into the atic and to my router in the office.

There is also a Toslink on the bose receiver for connection to a HTPC should I get one before I ditch the bose. That will be suplemented by both DVI and VGA (see above) for testing PC output.

I am thinking I need a Harmony remote soon. :D

Great picture! You just barely squeezed that sucker in there. It is as if the house was designed for that Sammy 5668!

I noticed you said you needed a component cable for your PS2. Even though I'm in NYC and we don't have a WalMart here, I found a MadCatz component PS2 cable from Walmart.com for only $5 plus about $5 shipping. That's about the cheapest I could find one anywhere (what can I say, I'm cheap). I ordered on the 19th and it's supposed to arrive tomorrow. You can get much faster than that paying the cheapest shipping option. It also works with Xbox (It's got two connectors on one end) in case anyone else needs one.

Here is a picture of my TV setup...

The TV has a VGA cable (for plugging in laptop), a component cable coming from an audio authority 4x1 component auto-switch with the following connections.

1) Sony 400 Disc DVD changer via Component, Coax Audio
2) Gamecube via Component, Stereo Audio
3) Empty, will be PS2 via Component when I buy the cable, audio is PS2 via Toslink.
4) Video output from Bose 321 Receiver (a gift, don't judge me :D) via component (also a DVD player)

The audio outputs of the Audio authority goes to a coax and stereo inputs on the Bose.

The TV also has an S-Video connection to a cheap 4x1 Svideo manual-switch with my dreamcast on it via RCA and the video for my PS2 (until I get a component cable) via S-video. This is also where I can easilly plug in other assorted devices such as my pac man in a joystick game.

The audio output of the S-video switch goes to a Stereo input on the Bose.

When my HD950 arrives I will plug it in via HDMI along with the extra HDMI/DVI cable for testing digital PC output. I also have to run a 100 ft ethernet cable behind there into the atic and to my router in the office.

There is also a Toslink on the bose receiver for connection to a HTPC should I get one before I ditch the bose. That will be suplemented by both DVI and VGA (see above) for testing PC output.

I am thinking I need a Harmony remote soon. :D


nice setup. Where are your speakers located ?

Has anybody tried using the OPPO dvd player on the 6168?

Has anybody tried using the OPPO dvd player on the 6168?Good question? Anybody try this combo yet?

Here is a picture of my TV setup...


Man that is a tight fit. How are you venting the back of the the TV? I understand that overheating can lead to early lamp failure.

Would anyone who has received a HLRxxx8W set and has a Denon DVD-2910
or DVD-3910 please report if they observe any macroblocking. I am particular
interested in the YCbCr 1080i HDMI output of the Denon but would like
to hear feedback on any of the Denon outputs...

Thanks in advance, I would really appreciate it!

For those owning the sets already, here are some (I believe) unanswered questions:

1. Do the discrete codes for the HLPxx63 series work on the HLRxxx8 models? I'm particularly interested in whether the power on code works properly and what code is used for the second HDMI input (perhaps it is the same code as "DVI" on the 63 series).

2. Does the HDMI input accept 480i?

3. What setting is being used for the screen size (for the 63 series it was "Expand").

4. Has anyone entered the Service Menu? If so, did you use the same code as with the 63 series?

5. Has anyone changed the gamma setting to "0" and is that recommended for these sets?

I just noticed that DNIe is off on my set, when I turn on the demo the ON side looks different but the OFF side looks just like it does with the demo off. I thought it was the other way around, does anyone know about turning DNIe on and off?

John_Jones_CA, looks nice! I really like the fit. How much space do you have between the top of the set and the bottom of the shelf? Just thinking about keeping air moving for cooling. Hope you are enjoying! :D

There is about 1/2" space, funny thing is that the set has been on for quite a few hours now and I can't sense any heat differential by putting my fingers in the space or by going underneath and putting my arm under the set. I don't think I will be having heat problems even with this tight setup. I wish I had one of them wireless thermometer thingys.

Great picture! You just barely squeezed that sucker in there. It is as if the house was designed for that Sammy 5668!

I noticed you said you needed a component cable for your PS2. Even though I'm in NYC and we don't have a WalMart here, I found a MadCatz component PS2 cable from Walmart.com for only $5 plus about $5 shipping. That's about the cheapest I could find one anywhere (what can I say, I'm cheap). I ordered on the 19th and it's supposed to arrive tomorrow. You can get much faster than that paying the cheapest shipping option. It also works with Xbox (It's got two connectors on one end) in case anyone else needs one.

The size fit was a motivating factor in my purchase decision (no way to get a Mits in there for example) I almost chickened out and went with a thin bezel 720p when they were at Costco, glad I waited. It was a hard time finding a stand that would fit, when I did I was just lucky that it worked and looked okay.

Thanks for the tip on the cable I'll check it out.

nice setup. Where are your speakers located ?

Since I was given this overpriced, underperforming Bose 321 for christmas (I was planning on doing it right after I got the TV but instead I just accepted the gift). There are only two speakers and a subwoofer in this 'pseudo surround' setup. The speakers are in the picture, on the shelf above the TV. The subwoofer is in the corner to the right of the fireplace. It sounds much better than TV speakers, costs way too much, lacks all of the surround effect but was easy to setup and free.

Eventually I will upgrade my speakers to some in-ceiling surrounds and wall hung fronts. I am considering the Anthony Gallo sphere sattelites but that will be several more months of investigation and saving. I have a large open living room that makes it hard to do surround right especially with full sized speakers so everything will be mounted sattelites.

1. Do the discrete codes for the HLPxx63 series work on the HLRxxx8 models? I'm particularly interested in whether the power on code works properly and what code is used for the second HDMI input (perhaps it is the same code as "DVI" on the 63 series).


Can someone post the discrete codes here and how to test them? This thread should have its own listing of discrete codes that work for it (I don't want to have to dig through the owners thread for a different set).


3. What setting is being used for the screen size (for the 63 series it was "Expand").


I don't understand your question, there are 5 picture sizes
4:3 for sources sending 4:3 content
16:9 for sources sending 16:9 content (including PCs set to 1920x1080)
Zoom1 for zooming in on 4:3 content being sent over 16:9 (non-anamorphic DVDs) or for stretching SD TV to fill screen (why?)
Zoom2 for zooming in more (why?)
Panorama an alternate way of stretching 4:3 content to fill 16:9 (why?)


4. Has anyone entered the Service Menu? If so, did you use the same code as with the 63 series?


What are the instructions for doing so?


5. Has anyone changed the gamma setting to "0" and is that recommended for these sets?

I don't see any such setting?

I just noticed that DNIe is off on my set, when I turn on the demo the ON side looks different but the OFF side looks just like it does with the demo off. I thought it was the other way around, does anyone know about turning DNIe on and off?

Wow! You are sure it is off?! This seems completely backwards...(as you said). Can schaffer or anyone else confirm?!

DNIe is only: Demo on or off.

I'm sure he is referring to DNIe Demo being off. There is no DNIe On/Off setting on the new Samsung 67, 68 and 78 models. So, if it there is no DNIe On/Off setting and Samsung are touting DNIe as a great feature then we can only assume that it is always on.

Question 5 in open issues:

5. On the 1080p sets, which inputs have DNIe turned on all of the time. On the HDMI inputs and other inputs (VGA/PC, 1394), is DNIe ON or OFF? Does selecting a specific device type with inputs that have DNIe on all of the time reduce the level of processing (selecting GAME on component, for example)?

I think that the DNIe question needs to be carefully answered for each input.

I just noticed that DNIe is off on my set, when I turn on the demo the ON side looks different but the OFF side looks just like it does with the demo off. I thought it was the other way around, does anyone know about turning DNIe on and off?

The DNIe is always on but the demo mode does more than just turn it off on one side. It goes to an exaggerated version for demo purposes. Depending on your customized picture settings your picture may more closely resemble the "DNIe Off" side, but this does not mean that DNIe is off when the demo is off. It's just a more subtle effect. At first I was pissed that I couldn't turn off DNIe on my 67 series HLR but now it doesn't bother me much. The demo mode sure is a stupid feature and a waste of a button on the remote.

Jon

DNIe is only: Demo on or off.

No, what I mean is that when I turn the DNIe demo ON, the side of the screen that says ON is different from the same frame of film when DNIe demo is OFF while the side that says OFF is the same as when DNIe is OFF. The side of the demo that says on is clearly sharpened and modified thus when DNIe is OFF then DNIe is in fact off and I don't see how to turn it ON.

I am taking pictures, I'll post them shortly.

Here are my DNIe Demo screencaptures from LOTR:TT. The pictures were carefully taken with the camera on full manual (shutter, aperture, ISO, whitebalance, focus) while my arm was resting on a steady surface and the other hand was operating the remote. I had to be carefull with the shutter as not to get color changes from the darned wheel :D

I think the results speak for themselves but DNIe On is clearly on the left side of the screen and it is clearly different from with Demo OFF thus DNIe is not functioning on my set.

Would anyone who has received a HLRxxx8W set and has a Denon DVD-2910
or DVD-3910 please report if they observe any macroblocking. I am particular
interested in the YCbCr 1080i HDMI output of the Denon but would like
to hear feedback on any of the Denon outputs...

Thanks in advance, I would really appreciate it!

I saw a Denon 3910 connected to a HLR5078W yesterday at Magnolia HiFi in San Ramon CA. Magnolia was playing one of the Star Wars DVD in the unit. It was connected to the TV via HDMI. I am planning on going back to day or tomorrow to further investigate what I'm about to report ... so take this as very preliminary information. Because I was working with a very knowledgable Magnolia employee, I didn't check the Denon settings. I plan to go back an carefully go through all of the Denon settings.

There was extensive marcoblocking in picture. I'm not talking about something subtle here. The picture PQ was worthless.

Was it the Denon / Samsung combination? I don't know. Was the Denon setup improperly? I am going to go back and check everything. I'm not planning on using the Denon 2910 or 3910 in my setup, but I have over a 1000 DVD and I absolutely need to see a clean, stable image on the digital connection from a up shifting DVD player.

All of the people in the store realized there was a big problem with the DVD image as it was being displayed from the 3910.

Here are my DNIe Demo screencaptures from LOTR:TT. The pictures were carefully taken with the camera on full manual (shutter, aperture, ISO, whitebalance, focus) while my arm was resting on a steady surface and the other hand was operating the remote. I had to be carefull with the shutter as not to get color changes from the darned wheel :D

I think the results speak for themselves but DNIe On is clearly on the left side of the screen and it is clearly different from with Demo OFF thus DNIe is not functioning on my set.

I am sorry if you already answered this question above, but what input is your DVD player using? What type of DVD player are you using and what resolution are you sending to the TV?

It is off a Sony 400 disc progressive DVD player via component. When I press Info it says I am sending the set 720x480 @ 60Hz.

I saw a Denon 3910 connected to a HLR5078W yesterday at Magnolia HiFi in San Ramon CA. Magnolia was playing one of the Star Wars DVD in the unit. It was connected to the TV via HDMI. I am planning on going back to day or tomorrow to further investigate what I'm about to report ... so take this as very preliminary information. Because I was working with a very knowledgable Magnolia employee, I didn't check the Denon settings. I plan to go back an carefully go through all of the Denon settings.

There was extensive marcoblocking in picture. I'm not talking about something subtle here. The picture PQ was worthless.

Was it the Denon / Samsung combination? I don't know. Was the Denon setup improperly? I am going to go back and check everything. I'm not planning on using the Denon 2910 or 3910 in my setup, but I have over a 1000 DVD and I absolutely need to see a clean, stable image on the digital connection from a up shifting DVD player.

All of the people in the store realized there was a big problem with the DVD image as it was being displayed from the 3910.

They didn't happen to have the optical out connected somewhere where you could check if it was getting 5.1 did they?!

Can someone post the discrete codes here and how to test them? This thread should have its own listing of discrete codes that work for it (I don't want to have to dig through the owners thread for a different set).

I don't understand your question, there are 5 picture sizes
4:3 for sources sending 4:3 content
16:9 for sources sending 16:9 content (including PCs set to 1920x1080)
Zoom1 for zooming in on 4:3 content being sent over 16:9 (non-anamorphic DVDs) or for stretching SD TV to fill screen (why?)
Zoom2 for zooming in more (why?)
Panorama an alternate way of stretching 4:3 content to fill 16:9 (why?)


I don't see any such setting?


As for the codes, Do you have a pronto remote? If so, you can download the configuration file from remotecentral.com

The picture size options will depend on your input. Are you using HDMI or component? The ones you mentioned seem like the component picture sizes. HDMI, at least on the 63 series, was different and had settings for 4:3, Wide and Expand.

The gamma setting is in the service menu.

I saw a Denon 3910 connected to a HLR5078W yesterday at Magnolia HiFi in San Ramon CA. Magnolia was playing one of the Star Wars DVD in the unit. It was connected to the TV via HDMI. I am planning on going back to day or tomorrow to further investigate what I'm about to report ... so take this as very preliminary information. Because I was working with a very knowledgable Magnolia employee, I didn't check the Denon settings. I plan to go back an carefully go through all of the Denon settings.

There was extensive marcoblocking in picture. I'm not talking about something subtle here. The picture PQ was worthless.

Was it the Denon / Samsung combination? I don't know. Was the Denon setup improperly? I am going to go back and check everything. I'm not planning on using the Denon 2910 or 3910 in my setup, but I have over a 1000 DVD and I absolutely need to see a clean, stable image on the digital connection from a up shifting DVD player.

All of the people in the store realized there was a big problem with the DVD image as it was being displayed from the 3910.

The Denon 3910 uses a scaler chip with a known bug that produces
macroblocking on many displays - I saw it on the Mits 1080p / 2910
combo and I have observed it with my 3910 and JVC D-ILA combo.

Looks like I will probably be upgrading my DVD player soon...

As for the codes, Do you have a pronto remote? If so, you can download the configuration file from remotecentral.com

The picture size options will depend on your input. Are you using HDMI or component? The ones you mentioned seem like the component picture sizes. HDMI, at least on the 63 series, was different and had settings for 4:3, Wide and Expand.

The gamma setting is in the service menu.

Thanks, I didn't know that the options changed, I am using component, my HDMI DVD player isn't here yet.

I thought there was a list of all the commands and a digit code for that command in human readable format so we could look it over and see what was possible. I don't have a universal remote yet, I just wanted to see the language understood by the TV.

I haven't been in the service menu yet...

USCB,

I have been able to minimize the macroblocking by adjusting brightness and
contrast on my JVC and using the following settings on the Denon DVD-3910:

IRE=7.5 ( click on picture adjust and scroll to the farthest right selection to set )

HDMI / DVI Black level set to NORMAL ( 'enhanced' really mucks it up )

and select HDMI 1080i YCbCr for format / output

Thanks,

Tony

They didn't happen to have the optical out connected somewhere where you could check if it was getting 5.1 did they?!

No.

I think the results speak for themselves but DNIe On is clearly on the left side of the screen and it is clearly different from with Demo OFF thus DNIe is not functioning on my set.

Crank the sharpness and contrast way up to the max and go to Dynamic mode. I think you'll find that your nomal picture is a lot closer to "Demo On". If not, making service mode changes to Gamma (higher) may get you closer if you like that sort of thing. I'm glad that the picture on my 67 series looks more like the Demo Off side but to each his own. Just some thoughts after noticing the same thing with demo mode on my TV.

Jon

tonydeluce,
I have only watched pieces of Appollo 13 and Pirates of the Carribean on the new set as I have been adjusting sound, colors, etc but so far I have not seen anything I would attribute to macroblocking issues. The astronauts space suits (mostly all white obviously) with red and blue used as trims looks absolutely spectacular. There are many dark space scenes in which the space ship is turning and rocking and rolling and those scenes are very crisp, at least to me. I will also change to YCbCr tonight.

Crank the sharpness and contrast way up to the max and go to Dynamic mode. I think you'll find that your nomal picture is a lot closer to "Demo On". If not, making service mode changes to Gamma (higher) may get you closer if you like that sort of thing. I'm glad that the picture on my 67 series looks more like the Demo Off side but to each his own. Just some thoughts after noticing the same thing with demo mode on my TV.

Jon

So if by making variable adjustments we can move from a picture that looks just like DNIe Off to DNIe on and beyond on either side than it isn't orthogonal to other picture settings (contrast, sharpness, etc) than what does turning it on or off mean?

How do I get into the service menu?

[QUOTE]
I think the DNIe option is only for ON / OFF of the demo in which you see a side by side comparison of DNIe on or off. I don't think you have the option to turn it off, just the demo.

I finally pulled the trigger on the TVA 56" Sammy. I have been drooling over the 61" for some time BUT the price diff on the 56" was enough to make me pull back.

The great thing about TVA (Cambryn) is if I get buyers remorse on the size I can "upgrade" to the bigger one by paying the difference.

This TV is replacing a Toshiba 57" HX81.

[QUOTE]
I think the DNIe option is only for ON / OFF of the demo in which you see a side by side comparison of DNIe on or off. I don't think you have the option to turn it off, just the demo.

I know that, but my point is that you can make the picture with the Demo OFF look just like it does on EITHER half of the screen with the Demo ON (called DNIe On and DNIe Off respectively) thus 'turning DNIe on' or 'turning DNIe off' is just a matter of setting the other normal controls of your set to the appropriate values. You can also set your parameters so that it looks somewhere between the two in the demo...

The Denon 3910 uses a scaler chip with a known bug that produces
macroblocking on many displays - I saw it on the Mits 1080p / 2910
combo and I have observed it with my 3910 and JVC D-ILA combo.

Looks like I will probably be upgrading my DVD player soon...
Macroblocking can be attributed to several causes. Me thinks its the extensive digital signal processing of both the Denon and these pseudo "1080p" displays. That is these new displays pull many tricks to achieve what they do. The tricks have side effects. From reading what is already known, the issues include macroblocking and/or pixelization, artifacting and time delay isssues
Video only has 8 bits of dynamic range it needs to be preserved and not distorted by the display.

Tony, I use two Genesis based players a Panasonic S97 and a Denon 1910, both use the digital output and are even scaled by my Sony LCD projectors. There is NO macroblocking or artifacts. Zippo!

So rather than "upgrading" your dvd player you just might want to consider upgrading from the new Samsungs. Newer does not always equate to better.:)

Macroblocking can be attributed to several causes. Me thinks its the extensive digital signal processing of both the Denon and these pseudo "1080p" displays. That is these new displays pull many tricks to achieve what they do. The tricks have side effects. From reading what has already know, the issues are macroblocking and/or pixelization and artifacting.
Video only has 8 bits of dynamic range it needs to be preserved and not distorted by the display.

Tony, I use two Genesis based players a Panasonic S97 and a Denon 1910, both use the digital output and are even scaled by my Sony LCD projectors. There is NO macroblocking or artifacts. Zippo!

So rather than "upgrading" your dvd player you just might want to consider upgrading from the new Samsungs. Newer does not always equate to better.:)

Reincarnate,

I first thought you were a serious intelligent AV hobbist who sincerely wanted
to objectively discuss equipment. But you have proved yourself to be otherwise.
The macroblocking occurs on my JVC D-ILA and many other displays and is
a function of a chip used in the Denon 1910/2910/3910/5900 DVD players and
many others. This chip provides the sharpest picture to date but does have the
MB problem on many displays.

Best regards,

Tony

P.S. The chip is the Faroudja FLI-2310 Decoding Engine - research your info a little
bit and you might have something worth reading..

So if by making variable adjustments we can move from a picture that looks just like DNIe Off to DNIe on and beyond on either side than it isn't orthogonal to other picture settings (contrast, sharpness, etc) than what does turning it on or off mean?

How do I get into the service menu?

If the 68 series is similar to the 67 series in regards to the DNIe issues and the service menu (which I'm assuming it is), then these posts might be of some use to people who want to access, understand, and/or change service menu settings:

Thread 545452
Thread 546848
Thread 543222
(Don't have 5 posts yet, so I can't directly link...)

You should be able to access the service menu by hitting Mute, 1, 8, 2, Power.

It's interesting that several people have said that turning the sharpness down to 0 reduces the effects of DNIe. I currently have a 5667, but I'm taking it back and upgrading to the 5668 or 6168, so I'm very interested to see if the issues can be addressed by the time I get my set. On a personal note, changing the gamma to 0 in the service menu, and changing the target white point to D65K(313, 329) (so that standard mode matched movie mode's grayscale) definitely made an improvement on my 67's PQ.

I picked up my Scientific Atlanta 8000 HD (DVR and digital cable box) today from Comcast. I'm expecting my 6168 on Monday. It has a DVI on the back of the box, but the manual says this port is for future use and may or may not be active. Comcast provided component cables. Anyone know or have an opinion if I can use the DVI to connect to the 6168? I read people online that were ripping this unit, but also heard that software upgrades have corrected a lot of problems. Should I expect signal degradation going through the DVR? How are most people connecting their cable boxes to their TV's? Are there a lot of HD-DVR users? I might give up DVR functionality if the PQ is reduced.

You should be able to access the service menu by hitting Mute, 1, 8, 2, Power.


This didn't seem to work, it just turned my set off (Power). I have the internal mute on so when I hit mute it warns me it won't work, then when I hit 1 8 and 2 each time it says Not available does this effect getting into the menu.

I am going to stay out of other owner's threads, this info should be posted here independent of other sets.

This horse has been beaten to a pulp already. It isn't going to happen over digital inputs. At least not this year. The only people who are going to be able to test 1080p input content are HTPC folks or folks with scalers that can push out a 1080p signal. I surely won't be able to test out any of the 1080p input abilities. I look forward to reading about their results but to me it doesn't matter at all.

To me, of course, it's the only important factor.

I guess I'll be saving my pennies until someone else adds a _fully functional_ digital input to their set..

Stupid decision Samsung!!! Bad dog!!

This didn't seem to work, it just turned my set off (Power). I have the internal mute on so when I hit mute it warns me it won't work, then when I hit 1 8 and 2 each time it says Not available does this effect getting into the menu.

I am going to stay out of other owner's threads, this info should be posted here independent of other sets.

Sorry, I should have explained the instructions better. You have to enter those commands in while the set is off. Turning the gamma to 0 is probably the only thing worth doing until some people investigate the behavior of these sets more.

I just ordered a 5668 myself from TVA. I'll be upgrading from a 10-year old 27" curve-tubed TV that truncates 2" from each side of the display, for some reason. I will be very happy to get rid of it, the albatross.

Southern California Edison was good enough to provide me with some testing material in the form of a brief blackout. :D

The picture failed in a spectacular fashion, the colors all bleeded out to red (prob the color wheel stopping) then the light dimmed out. The electronics went last and the TV went out except the fan (I believe it has a capacitor on it keeping it going to cool down the lamp). It then started back up fine, but was behaving strangely. I had to turn off the DVD and restart it to get sound. All is now well.

For a moment I thought it was an overheat problem but then I could tell the ceiling fan had slowed down and my laptop has stopped charging...

Yes, my Camel has arrived! I Got my 6168, I'm leaving work to go set it up. Thanks to all those who have posted their wiring setups, it really helps to hear how others have done it. I will post anything I discover and also how the Sammy 950 works via HDMI, vs Standard DVD via component.

To everyone who thinks it would take an act of god or a ten year wait to see a consumer level device with a 1080P output, I offer this reminder- Playstation 3. Spring 2006.

To everyone who thinks it would take an act of god or a ten year wait to see a consumer level device with a 1080P output, I offer this reminder- Playstation 3. Spring 2006.I could care less about Playstation 3...I am not a gamer :D

I could care less about Playstation 3...I am not a gamer :D

I believe Playstation 3 will have a vga output so the Samsung 1080p
TVs will accept 1080p60fps output from Playstation 3...

I picked up my Scientific Atlanta 8000 HD (DVR and digital cable box) today from Comcast. I'm expecting my 6168 on Monday. It has a DVI on the back of the box, but the manual says this port is for future use and may or may not be active. Comcast provided component cables. Anyone know or have an opinion if I can use the DVI to connect to the 6168? I read people online that were ripping this unit, but also heard that software upgrades have corrected a lot of problems. Should I expect signal degradation going through the DVR? How are most people connecting their cable boxes to their TV's? Are there a lot of HD-DVR users? I might give up DVR functionality if the PQ is reduced.

I'm not a Comcast customer, but you may inquire if you can upgrade to a 8300HD, it's a faster and more stable set top box, has a HDMI port, and a bigger hard drive. It also has a hard drive expansion slot (SATA2) to add another hard drive :)

- D

Southern California Edison was good enough to provide me with some testing material in the form of a brief blackout. :D

The picture failed in a spectacular fashion, the colors all bleeded out to red (prob the color wheel stopping) then the light dimmed out. The electronics went last and the TV went out except the fan (I believe it has a capacitor on it keeping it going to cool down the lamp). It then started back up fine, but was behaving strangely. I had to turn off the DVD and restart it to get sound. All is now well.

For a moment I thought it was an overheat problem but then I could tell the ceiling fan had slowed down and my laptop has stopped charging...
I strongly suggest a battery backup UPS unit. In the case of a power failure, it will allow you to turn off your set and let the fan run for a few minutes to cool the bulb.

I finally pulled the trigger on the TVA 56" Sammy. I have been drooling over the 61" for some time BUT the price diff on the 56" was enough to make me pull back.

The great thing about TVA (Cambryn) is if I get buyers remorse on the size I can "upgrade" to the bigger one by paying the difference.

This TV is replacing a Toshiba 57" HX81.


Hey I'm replacing a 57HX81 also but I decided to go with the 61". For just a few hundred dollars, and 5 inches it seems worth it. I only wish they had a 62".

I strongly suggest a battery backup UPS unit. In the case of a power failure, it will allow you to turn off your set and let the fan run for a few minutes to cool the bulb.

In an ideal world yeah sure but you know I expect better, if a TV needs power to run a fan it should store it up in a rechargable battery or capacitor. If I don't worry about my computer, why would I worry about a TV?

So basically I am saying yeah technically it would be nice but so would checking your tire pressure every week and rotating them every oil change. I'll live dangerously thanks, its just easier that way.

I believe Playstation 3 will have a vga output so the Samsung 1080p
TVs will accept 1080p60fps output from Playstation 3...
I hadn't seen that about the PS3 and VGA. I know there were 2 HDMI ports, each capable of 1080p, plus the classic analog AV stack (composite, s-video, component).

Several little things to figure out. Found out tonight (TW 8300 dvr), if you enable all the settings to include 480p and 480i (not 480 widescreen), then the hdmi will not pick up all the stv channels. Also with the hdmi connection, I have not been able to control the volume with the tw remote like I can if I use the component connection. Also on the tv menu the channel selection is greyed out, as is the tv guide selection. Any ideas?

I strongly suggest a battery backup UPS unit. In the case of a power failure, it will allow you to turn off your set and let the fan run for a few minutes to cool the bulb.
In an ideal world yeah sure but you know I expect better, if a TV needs power to run a fan it should store it up in a rechargable battery or capacitor. If I don't worry about my computer, why would I worry about a TV?

So basically I am saying yeah technically it would be nice but so would checking your tire pressure every week and rotating them every oil change. I'll live dangerously thanks, its just easier that way.
The thing that's got me thinking about getting a UPS isn't so much my concern for cooling the bulb when the power goes out, but making up for the power dip every time my air conditioner turns on -- all the lights in the house dim for an appreciable fraction of a second. :eek: Does anyone know what impact that could have on one of these sets (or a DVR, for that matter)?

To the new owners of 1080p, have you noticed any black dots on your tv (hope not) and is it common to have small black dots on a brand new dlp tv (dead pixel?) I returned two
lcd 60XS955 and a dlp 5685 because of few small black dots. According to a San Ramon Magnolia manager, DLPs can have dead pixel too. Is this true?

To the new owners of 1080p, have you noticed any black dots on your tv (hope not) and is it common to have small black dots on a brand new dlp tv (dead pixel?) I returned two
lcd 60XS955 and a dlp 5685 because of few small black dots. According to a San Ramon Magnolia manager, DLPs can have dead pixel too. Is this true?

I believe LCD, Plasma, LCOS, DLP, LCD projection ( did I miss any?)
are all subject to the possibility of dead pixels.

It is also my understanding, especially in the case of DLP, LCOS, and
LCD projection that if you don't find any in the first 30 days it is
very unlikely, but still possible, that one could still go out later...

Reincarnate,

I first thought you were a serious intelligent AV hobbist who sincerely wanted
to objectively discuss equipment. But you have proved yourself to be otherwise.
The macroblocking occurs on my JVC D-ILA and many other displays and is
a function of a chip used in the Denon 1910/2910/3910/5900 DVD players and
many others. This chip provides the sharpest picture to date but does have the
MB problem on many displays.

Best regards,

Tony

P.S. The chip is the Faroudja FLI-2310 Decoding Engine - research your info a little
bit and you might have something worth reading..
And I had held you to a higher standard Tony. I am disappointed with this emotional outburst.

The issue is that you got the facts wrong, Tony.

Just for background I am Samsung alumni. I bought the very first Samsung DLP rear projector (model 507), and their first digital output Dvd player (model 931) too.

For what its worth, I experienced the same macroblocking issues along with dither noise, flashing and rainbows. Now go 3-4 years into the future here today and what do were have: much of the same issues. The only difference is that there is a new cycle of consumers who are considering purchasing a rear projector.

My mistake was that I believed the hype without critically examining the picture quality. As each month went by, I became more dissatisfied with these similar type of artifacts still seen here today. In the end, I took a rather large loss when selling the 507 Samsung DLP display. Now I wait patiently for a real 1920*1080 60fps progressive input capable display to use with the upcoming Play Staion 3 and Internet surfing.

Just as a marriage take two, so does macroblocking. In fact macroblocking can be a cascade of cumulative errors occurring at different stages of the capture, mastering and playback chain:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=557521

Reincarnate?

Is your analysis of the new Samsung 1080P's based upon a personal review in-house or at a store? Where are your criticism's derived from? I've carefully selected every review posted over the past week and pasted them all into a running text file for reference and I see no common element supporting your criticism of the new Samsungs and in fact they run quite the opposite.

I can understand and accept you may be an unhappy customer from the past but why taint pages and pages of feedback with such a broad brush when in fact the vast majority of feedback has been extremely positive. I am disappointed that some of the new owners are not providing us much feedback like we are seeing from people viewing them in the stores. When the new JVC's debuted we went through the same thing the owners got their TV's and we couldn't get much analysis from the new owners outside of QC issues or connectivity issues of components - they had 25 pages of feedback and only a few actual reviews.

I'm not being critical of you but could you also accept the signal compression or exterior factors can also result in artifacts and macro effects? Could you set aside the subjective experience of the past and review the sets objectively? Objectivity means you don't look intentionally for errors but evaluate it overall the same as that dream system you speak of? That would be a service to us all if you set aside those anti-Samsung issues an gives us fresh mindset evaluation.

Thanks and no criticism intended but that energy could help us better if you did a fair objective evaluation. :D

I believe Playstation 3 will have a vga output so the Samsung 1080p
TVs will accept 1080p60fps output from Playstation 3...

you're confusing it with the xbox360 (component and vga). ps3 will have hdmi (2x) and lower but no vga output

of course, the 360 will only output up to 1080i/720p, but of course the tv would deinterlace the 1080i to 1080p

For what its worth, I experienced the same macroblocking issues along with dither noise, flashing and rainbows. Now go 3-4 years into the future here today and what do were have: much of the same issues. The only difference is that there is a new cycle of consumers who are considering purchasing a rear projector.

My mistake was that I believed the hype without critically examining the picture quality. As each month went by, I became more dissatisfied with these similar type of artifacts still seen here today. In the end, I took a rather large loss when selling the 507 Samsung DLP display. Now I wait patiently for a real 1920*1080 60fps progressive input capable display to use with the upcoming Play Staion 3 and Internet surfing.

Just as a marriage take two, so does macroblocking. In fact macroblocking can be a cascade of cumulative errors occurring at different stages of the capture, mastering and playback chain:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=557521

No emotional outburst just a disappointment that you take the opportunity to
blame an issue on a TV when is is widely known and accepted that there are
problems with MB from the Denon DVD players I mentioned. You are correct that the MB
from the Denons and other DVD players usimg the same chip only occurs on a subset of
microdisplays. I get MB on my triple-chip JVC LCOS so it is not just DLPs...

But if you are a gamer and having an input from playstation3 via HDMI at
1080p60fps then sure wait such an input on a TV. This is a valid concern
and I would do the same if this was important to me.

But to come on a 1080 DLP owners thread and call the displays everyone
is waiting for "psuedo" displays displays a great deal of ignorance on your part.
Ignorance of two types, that is: 1) that of being inconsiderate and 2) an
igorance of the display itself for the displays not only display the full 1920x1080
resolution but does it extremely well. You might as well call a CRT FP with 9 in.
guns psuedo HD since one pixel at a time is scanned.

Looking to see one other than the prototype that I saw at the HES in Manahattan a few months back.
Anybody recommend a place us NY area types can go to look?

And I had held you to a higher standard Tony. I am disappointed with this emotional outburst.



Your kidding, right?

Your quote from Tony's post certainly does not show an "emotional outburst". In fact, taken in context, I think he showed quite a bit of restraint!

The thing that's got me thinking about getting a UPS isn't so much my concern for cooling the bulb when the power goes out, but making up for the power dip every time my air conditioner turns on -- all the lights in the house dim for an appreciable fraction of a second. :eek: Does anyone know what impact that could have on one of these sets (or a DVR, for that matter)?

That would be a concern to me, I would think about an UPS :)

Your kidding, right?

Your quote from Tony's post certainly does not show an "emotional outburst". In fact, taken in context, I think he showed quite a bit of restraint!

ditto to that.

Things are getting rediculously silly while we await some serious evaluations from the people with these new sets.

But if you are a gamer and having an input from playstation3 via HDMI at
1080p60fps then sure wait such an input on a TV. This is a valid concern
and I would do the same if this was important to me.



actually bluray players, and in effect ps3, is expected to output 1080p24fps, so that is the expected HDMI inputs for upcoming 1080p players with hdmi inputs

so my understanding is:

PS3 will have the capability to send 1080p signals thru the hdmi (but the samsungs will downconert to 1080i then to 1080 p)

xbox will have vga out but max resolution is 1080i and the samsung will upconvert it to 1080p..is this correct so far?

considering the 1080p samsungs, there is no way (for either system) to get 1080p into the new samsungs (from the gaming systems)...correct?

do you think that there might be a hdmi/vga adapter availble?

I swear, if somebody mentions a gaming console once more (and not "I have one, here's my results" that's fine) I will take you outside, and drop an xbox on your foot ok? ok!

I swear every day I come in here I see a new post like this:

"OMG HAS ANYONE PLUGGED IN XYZ CONSOLE YET!!?!?!?!"

They're coming! be patient, people are still waiting to recieve their TV's, patience young grasshoppers

vent :\

- D

PS3 will have the capability to send 1080p signals thru the hdmi (but the samsungs will downconert to 1080i then to 1080 p)

xbox will have vga out but max resolution is 1080i and the samsung will upconvert it to 1080p..is this correct so far?


new xbox and PS3 don't exist yet. I don't think anyone should be saying what they will and won't do. The PS3 has already eliminated its 2nd network jack and router ability. Who knows what it'll be like whenever its released.

Take my advice and just ignore REINCARNATE. He drinks the Haterade, and a lot of it. My so many people on AVS make themselves feel good by hating on others stuff I will never understand.

hi all,

well, my 6168 finally arrived today. SEKO guy arrived just when he said he would. i was there for delivery from my parking lot to my door. unpacked the tv, put it on the stand, plug it in, turn it on...

about a 1.5inch wavy black line goes horizontally from one end of the screen to the other, about 3/4 of the way down from the top of the screen.

this is w/no inputs connected.

the top of the screen is also distorted.

talked to samsung, they said they've never heard anything like it.

talked to james at TVA, they'll send me a new one when they can, and pick up the defective one :(

needless to say, i'm really really really disappointed. so close!

any ideas what might be wrong? samsung will send a technician out when they can. i supposed i can have the tv serviced, and still have TVA pick up the defective/repaired one?

ugh

-c

i'll try to post pics, once i get settled :(

hi all,

well, my 6168 finally arrived today. SEKO guy arrived just when he said he would. i was there for delivery from my parking lot to my door. unpacked the tv, put it on the stand, plug it in, turn it on...

about a 1.5inch wavy black line goes horizontally from one end of the screen to the other, about 3/4 of the way down from the top of the screen.

this is w/no inputs connected.

the top of the screen is also distorted.

talked to samsung, they said they've never heard anything like it.

talked to james at TVA, they'll send me a new one when they can, and pick up the defective one :(

needless to say, i'm really really really disappointed. so close!

any ideas what might be wrong? samsung will send a technician out when they can. i supposed i can have the tv serviced, and still have TVA pick up the defective/repaired one?

ugh

-c

i'll try to post pics, once i get settled :(


Ouch!!!! This must hurt...

But hang in there - some more patience and I am sure you will be having a great time with your splendid new HDTV!!

Here is a picture of my TV setup...


John,

Looks good, but you barely got that sucker in there! I haven't had a chance to go thru all the thread but I would get some exhaust venting in there ASAP. You may have to put baffles to direct the fan flow into the chassis vents, but I can see the big possibility of thermal problems which would shorten the bulbs life as well as some of the other electronics. Since you live in the inland empire, I would suspect that back wall is getting a bit warm also. It looks like the easiest porting is going to have to go thru the stand.

Paul

well, my 6168 finally arrived today. SEKO guy arrived just when he said he would. i was there for delivery from my parking lot to my door. unpacked the tv, put it on the stand, plug it in, turn it on...

about a 1.5inch wavy black line goes horizontally from one end of the screen to the other, about 3/4 of the way down from the top of the screen.

this is w/no inputs connected.

the top of the screen is also distorted.

talked to samsung, they said they've never heard anything like it.

talked to james at TVA, they'll send me a new one when they can, and pick up the defective one :(

needless to say, i'm really really really disappointed. so close!

any ideas what might be wrong? samsung will send a technician out when they can. i supposed i can have the tv serviced, and still have TVA pick up the defective/repaired one?

I currently have in my living room an RCA/Thomson HD61LPW163, which is a 720p 61" HD2+ television. It arrived in mid-January from TigerDirect and was broken out-of-the-box in much the same way as you describe yours. Note that I got it in January and I STILL have it. RCA/Thomson has NOT been very good to me. They are finally in the process of buying it back from me, at which point I'll be telling TVA to charge me and ship out my new 6168 to replace it.

I've had a tech look at my set and the verdict was a crack in the optics inside the light engine. He isolated the output of the light engine while he had the back off the TV off and projected the picture straight out of it and onto the wall. It showed the same distortion.

On my set, the top 5-10% of the screen is purple. It's thinner on the left and gets thicker as it goes. This dividing line is slightly curved and has a bit of a rainbow effect along its edge. The curve, the color change, and the prismatic effect along the line all fit with the diagnosis of a crack in a glass element of the optics.

RCA wanted to replace the light engine at first, but the part wasn't available and the TV had other problems too. (Comcast tried 4 different CableCards in it and none of them would work.) So 7 months later I am a little under halfway through their estimated 6-8 weeks to process the buy-back.

Good for you for ordering from TVA with their exchange guarantee... I whish I had done the same from the start, but I'm definitely going with them THIS time.

I just BETTER not get this same problem like you did... After 7-8 months, I don't think I could stand it.

new xbox and PS3 don't exist yet. I don't think anyone should be saying what they will and won't do. The PS3 has already eliminated its 2nd network jack and router ability. Who knows what it'll be like whenever its released.

But then, we don't buy a 3.5K+ TV for a year or two. I intend to keep my tv for 5 years atleast and I'm sure within the next two years a lot of sources will have 1080p ... including xbox, ps3, BR players, HD-DVD players and upconverting DVD players.

I hope Samsung can add 1080p with a firmware fix sometime later ...

... I'm sure within the next two years a lot of sources will have 1080p ...
I don't think you are sure. :)

Computers can do it now, but there is very little 1080p source material available for computers.

I hope Samsung can add 1080p with a firmware fix sometime later ...
Samsung won't be able to add 1080p input through HDMI with a firmware fix.

Newbe question again. I am looking for a new dvd player for my 6168. I would like to stick with samsung for the ease of remotes. If the 6168 upconverts the signal coming in from a cheap dvd player, is there a need to get the more expensive one? And how is the hd 950? Thanks, Tom

Newbe question again. I am looking for a new dvd player for my 6168. I would like to stick with samsung for the ease of remotes. If the 6168 upconverts the signal coming in from a cheap dvd player, is there a need to get the more expensive one? And how is the hd 950? Thanks, Tom

Many people believe that a good quality upconverting DVD player will do a better job of upconverting and deinterlacing than what the internal processor of the TV will do.

Whether that will be the case with the new Samsungs I don't know, but I would venture to guess that it will be.