Well I went down to Sears today to get the 4755 and after waiting 15 minutes for help, got a salemans attention and mentioned that Sams has the same for $999. The salesman told me that they do not match wholesale clubs, I even pointed out that no where does it say that on their disclaimer, he still would not match it. I even said that they had this same tv for $999 three weeks ago, he agreed but still would not drop the price. So tomorrow I will drive to Sams, get a membership and get the TV. I hate Sears.

OK, quick question, I have a stand/cabinet looking thing that sits 30 inches off the ground. Too high for the 4755? My wife HATES the stand that comes with the TV at Sam's. Its either that or the Aspect at circuit city. I'm worried about the vertical viewing angles of the 4755. Any thoughts?

30 inches is really pushing it. How far will you sit from the TV?

My local Sears will price match Sam's, but only for the TV. They can't help you on the
stand. If you need a stand, you can't go wrong with Sam's. The extended warranty
is also a lot cheaper.

C Snyder


Well I went down to Sears today to get the 4755 and after waiting 15 minutes for help, got a salemans attention and mentioned that Sams has the same for $999. The salesman told me that they do not match wholesale clubs, I even pointed out that no where does it say that on their disclaimer, he still would not match it. I even said that they had this same tv for $999 three weeks ago, he agreed but still would not drop the price. So tomorrow I will drive to Sams, get a membership and get the TV. I hate Sears.

Long time lurker, first time poster. I bought the 4755 about a month ago and for the most part I really love it. As previous posters have said, the picture quality REALLY depends on your settings. I will post my own later today when I am home.

I've read through this thread and thanks for the many useful tips. I have 2 issues that don't seem to have been addressed and am curious if anyone has an answer.

1. When doing manual convergence, the blue lines on the left end of the screen are too wide to completely merge with the white. They always overlap. It seems as if the blue gun is "off" on that side. As a result, I see a blue outline or "glow" around text on the left side. Can this be fixed in the service menu?

2. Is there any way to change the color of the vertical bands to black while watching a 4:3 program? I find the gray to be very, VERY distracting. I can change the color on my cable box to black, but can seem to find a way to do it on the TV itself.

Long time lurker, first time poster. I bought the 4755 about a month ago and for the most part I really love it. As previous posters have said, the picture quality REALLY depends on your settings. I will post my own later today when I am home.

I've read through this thread and thanks for the many useful tips. I have 2 issues that don't seem to have been addressed and am curious if anyone has an answer.

1. When doing manual convergence, the blue lines on the left end of the screen are too wide to completely merge with the white. They always overlap. It seems as if the blue gun is "off" on that side. As a result, I see a blue outline or "glow" around text on the left side. Can this be fixed in the service menu?

2. Is there any way to change the color of the vertical bands to black while watching a 4:3 program? I find the gray to be very, VERY distracting. I can change the color on my cable box to black, but can seem to find a way to do it on the TV itself.

1) I have the same thing, I suspect that it is an optical problem. So probably can't be fixed unless you want to mess up the focus in the middle of the screen ;) One of the compromises for a set in this price range, I would guess. (I might not have any idea what I am talking about, btw, and I didn't even stay at a Holiday in Expess last night ;) )

2) I am not aware that the gray bars can be changed. Be aware that watching a lot of non-full screen content will likely cause burn-in. Have you given stretch a try for a while? I find that I get used to it, and in fact prefer it versus the gray or black bar option.

Went down to sams this morning and got the 4755, stand and 3 year warrenty and with tax, still paid less than tv cost at sears. And after some twiking, got an excellent picture. very happy with it right now.

So no one is playing an Xbox360 on this set? Now that i see this issue, i can remember when i 1st got the set & was viewing TV programming in HD with components through my cable box & saw this same problem. But once i started using DVI for my cable, it went away. I also dont see this while viewing DVDs in progressive through components. Only time is when playing X360...What gives? Is it really a signal or shielding problem? I believe the components im using for my DVD player are of better quality, so does that mean i need to buy Monster cables for my X360? What a rip!!

P.S. My issue is stated above, for those wondering. =]

30 inches is really pushing it. How far will you sit from the TV?

about 8 feet, little less.

OK, I sat on the floor in front of my home theater seats (to simulate having the set placed higher). I think you will be ok at 30 inches, but you will be looking up at the center of the screen. The down side is that anyone sitting on the floor (kids?) won't have a good viewing angle. If you get the bundle (stand and TV) from Sam's, you can always use the stand if you can convince the wife ;)

Hey guys, I am new to this thread and wanted to know if anyone else when playing a dvd movie through a xbox has black lines on the screen when you turn on subtitles. Small black lines appear to the left and right of the subtitle boxes. Is there any way to get rid of these small lines?

Just curious what native resolution is? I asked some guys on another board and they said 1080i. But other people have said 720p. Please someone give me a difinitive answer.

Just curious what native resolution is? I asked some guys on another board and they said 1080i. But other people have said 720p. Please someone give me a difinitive answer.

Native resolution applies mainly to fixed pixel devices (LCD, Plasma, DLP, etc). CRT's can multiscan so don't really have a "native resolution" (AFAIK). For example, a PC Monitor can display 640x480, 1024x768, etc, all by changing the scanning rate.

Our sets support up to 1080i, and can display 1080i, unlike most fixed pixel displays currently on the market that have to downscale to 720p.

I'm having a hard time telling which setting is clearer for the XBOX 360. On certain games 720 looks better, but on others 1080 looks better.

Nevermind I am an idiot.

Nevermind I am an idiot.

Care to elaborate ;)

I was just asking about how to change the colors, in convergence grid. When back and saw that it was on page 12. The only that I didn't see there was how to save. Or my eyes failed to see it because the yellow text on blue hurts the eyes.

On another note, my tv looks great since the guy came out and adjusted it. The only problem is that the screen is still a little wide on the left and on the right. That's why I was looking into how to change the colors so I can crunch it in then fix the convergence again. Hopefully I will have it perfect tonight at about 5:3o EST.

Quick update, the guy came out (again without me being there, I missed the first half of the first guy) and he made it better but it's still not like the first guy had it.

So...I'm calling Samsung again, there is a slight bend in the lines (not the convergence the...?) and the screen is not centered. It's a little too high and too much to the left. I can tell this by looking at 4:3 unstretched. So...it's another call to Samsung...

Note: To those who want to buy this TV, please remember that I (me, no one else) caused the problem when the TV came to my home it needed adjustment and after the first guy came out it looked AMAZING...but I'm not 100% satisfied with it since (while alot better) it's not perfect yet.

So...I"ll come back and give another update soon. For me...the tweaking in the service menu (other than VM) is a done deal, I aint touching it anymore.

I was just asking about how to change the colors, in convergence grid. When back and saw that it was on page 12. The only that I didn't see there was how to save. Or my eyes failed to see it because the yellow text on blue hurts the eyes.

On another note, my tv looks great since the guy came out and adjusted it. The only problem is that the screen is still a little wide on the left and on the right. That's why I was looking into how to change the colors so I can crunch it in then fix the convergence again. Hopefully I will have it perfect tonight at about 5:3o EST.

See that little box on the left at the bottom of this page, where it says --AVS Dark Theater? Change it if you don't like it dark ;)

It sounds like you are trying to reduce/eliminate overscan. Be careful, and be prepared to accept some overscan with a RP CRT...

is this TV still available at SAMS? I cant seem to find any other store BUT sears that sells these.

Should be, best way to find out is to either call or go and check. It is gone from their website though. I wonder why? :confused:

Since no one seems to own a X360 with this TV, ill just fill you guys in on why the things i posted earlier were happening to me. It seems that the dashboard can't be upscaled to 1080i, if it is, then you get those faint white lines scrollings. Not that i noticed really but its one of those things that urk you cause you know its there. lolz Out of the 5 games i own, Perfect Dark 0 is the only one that stated 720p on the back cover. Not only were those "interference lines" visible in the dash but even more so during dark scenes in PD0. Anyways, the other games say 480p/720p/1080i and play fine in 1080i. <<Again assuming you dont mind those lines while your dash is set to 1080i. OOOo yea and i rented Madden 06' and the same thing happens in 1080i but is fine in 720p. Just a lil 411 for those interested. ;]

P.S. I cant really tell the difference in game between 720p or 1080i, but as long as those lines are gone...IM HAPPY! =]

I saw it at Sams Club on the 28th. The picture still looked like crap compared to mine at home though. Everytime I go there I'm always itching to set their TV right..

is this TV still available at SAMS? I cant seem to find any other store BUT sears that sells these.

Long time lurker, first time poster.

I bought this set a couple months ago and followed this thread eagerly as it unfolded. Thanks for all the great info guys, it's been a big help.

First, the good. I love the picture this set makes. When watching HD or DVD it has a gorgeous film-like quality. The blacks are black, the colors are rich, and no microdisplay artifacts. I've been happy with this TV, especially considering the price.

I haven't tried gaming with it yet, but when hooked up to a computer via DVI it looks nice (fine print can be hard to read, but getting the convergence spot on helped immensely). I expect gaming to be fantastic (I'm holding out for the PS3), but haven't hooked the PS2 up yet. I use the computer for HTPC stuff, but web surfing is possible on this TV, but I suspect there would be some eye strain unless you boosted the font size. The text is a little hard to read at normal sizes.

Now the bad, SD could look a lot better, but that may be due in large to the Comcast 6412. I also am having a problem with faint black lines on the left side of my screen. I thought that it was the cable box but then noticed them on DVDs as well. So I thought it might be the Pioneer receiver (I run all the component video through the receiver). But I see the lines on DVI and OTA as well, so they are coming from the set. I had previously tried to eliminate overscan and thought that this is where it was coming from, so today I went back in the service menu to play again. I've gotten the lines minimized, but they are still there. My H_Pos is maxed out to the left and I am close enough to centered to be happy, although it could stand to go a few clicks left still. I've tried stretching the horizontal, but in order to remove the lines I have to unnaturally stretch the picture. Any ideas here? I've gotten them so that they aren't obnoxiously noticeable, I could live with it. They mainly show up in blue or grey scenes.

And of course, after playing with the geometry, I'm now blind from playing with the convergence menu again. ;-)

Have you gotten your faint black lines fixed? I have had 3 of these sets now and they all do this. I am getting tired of it. Can someone tell me what the heck they are?

Sorry I didn't post this earlier. I also have the X360, and I don't get any of those lines that you are talking about. I have had the system since launch and nothing. I live it @ 1080i at all times. If you take a picture can you see it? I would like to see exactly what you are talking about.

Since no one seems to own a X360 with this TV, ill just fill you guys in on why the things i posted earlier were happening to me. It seems that the dashboard can't be upscaled to 1080i, if it is, then you get those faint white lines scrollings. Not that i noticed really but its one of those things that urk you cause you know its there. lolz Out of the 5 games i own, Perfect Dark 0 is the only one that stated 720p on the back cover. Not only were those "interference lines" visible in the dash but even more so during dark scenes in PD0. Anyways, the other games say 480p/720p/1080i and play fine in 1080i. <<Again assuming you dont mind those lines while your dash is set to 1080i. OOOo yea and i rented Madden 06' and the same thing happens in 1080i but is fine in 720p. Just a lil 411 for those interested. ;]

P.S. I cant really tell the difference in game between 720p or 1080i, but as long as those lines are gone...IM HAPPY! =]

Have you gotten your faint black lines fixed? I have had 3 of these sets now and they all do this. I am getting tired of it. Can someone tell me what the heck they are?

Still don't know what's causing them, but it's a fault with the TV. I can see them on the grey "no signal" screens too.

I called tech support and they agreed that it was a problem with the TV. I now have a call in to the local repair shop, but they haven't gotten back to me to set up an appointment.

I'll let you know what the repairman says when he comes out.

That would be great. I have had a repairman out like 5 times on mine and he just wantes to replace some boards inside. I guess we will see. Thanks for the update though.

So does the Sam's Club warranty cover burn-in?

Also, is there any indication of how long this deal will be available at Sam's Club? I really want this TV, but I'm not sure if I can afford it right now, so I'm hoping it'll still be there for a while.

Still don't know what's causing them, but it's a fault with the TV. I can see them on the grey "no signal" screens too.

I called tech support and they agreed that it was a problem with the TV. I now have a call in to the local repair shop, but they haven't gotten back to me to set up an appointment.

I'll let you know what the repairman says when he comes out.


Please keep us posted, I still have about a month for my 90 day Sam's warranty. I'm wondering if the lines are just the nature of the beast, since it seems most everyone has them...

So does the Sam's Club warranty cover burn-in?

Also, is there any indication of how long this deal will be available at Sam's Club? I really want this TV, but I'm not sure if I can afford it right now, so I'm hoping it'll still be there for a while.

I would be surprised if the warranty covers burn-in, since the manual specifically warns about it.

Regarding availability at Sams, there is no way to predict. One day things are there, the next they are gone....

For those interested, my local K-Mart carries the R4355W (yes the 43" version).
I did not see it listed on their website. Unfortunately they are charging $100 more
than Sam's price for the R4755W and doesn't include the stand. Not even sure
if they actually carry the stand. Interesting find none the less.

C Snyder

The R4355W is newer than the 4755 which is why its a bit more expensive. that is the first none internet store that I have seen carry it.

Well I will also keep you guys posted about the lines. I have a repairman ordering a lot of parts. Once he replaces them I'll tell you if any of them worked. I read somewhere it could have something to do with the internal power supply in the TV.

Anyone have a PS2 hooked up to their tv with regular RCA (yellow)? I have mine hooked up an I am missing about 3/4" on the right ahnd side. Don't know why. When I have the 360 going through the component I have overscan on that side. I have tried to different PS2s and neither one of them fix this problem. It's something that I can live with, but would rather not. Thanks for any help.

Stopped into the repair shop yesterday since they didn't call me back after 5 days to set up an appointment.

I described the problem to him and he seemed very confused. He was going to talk to Samsung and find out what they thought it was and then order some boards. Hopefully he'll fix it up, these lines are either getting darker or are just annoying me more. I'm finding them very distracting, and I've adjusted the width as wide as I can go to get rid of the majority of them.

Hi all. I also just bought the Sam/Sam special for $999 with free stand. First, I dunno why anyone would complain about the stand. It is quite sturdy and the size and color are perfectly matched to this TV. What's not to like?

Now about the set. As most have said, HD and DVD look excellent. Most of the digital stations look good (I have Brighthouse cable). SD, that's another story. I find myself not watching much SD anymore because it is just too grainy. Turning the sharpness way down into the 20's or 30's helps quite a bit.

That leads me to my next comment, which is that I find myself endlessly adjusting color, contrast, sharpness, etc based on what I'm watching. I don't mind doing that but it drives the wife crazy (heh). Our last TV was a Toshiba 32" and I think I last messed with it's settings oh...say...7 or 8 years ago. It looked the same all the time, any channel. So that part takes a little getting used to.

Initially the front lens (non-glare screen, whatever you want to call it) was slightly warped. It had an annoying buckle toward the top that was really noticeable in a lit room. After a couple days of fooling with it, prying/lifting the black frame and smoothing up the screen, it finally snapped (loudly) into place. Nice and flat now. Whew that was a relief, I really did not want to drag this thing back to Sams.

Overall, it is a heck of a HDTV bargain. Sure there are better units out there but not in this price range. Thanks to this thread I think I'll keep out of the service menu. It IS tempting though. :)

Has anyone paired this up with the Samsung HD-850 upconverting DVD player? And I wonder why their DVD player is HDMI but the TV is DVI?

For what it's worth, see attached....

I am seriously considering this set but one quick question....Would 20-22 inches high on a stand be good enough from around 6ft away?

The stand that comes with it from Sams is only 17" so 20" would be fine. I sit 8 feet back but 6 should be fine.

The stand that comes with it from Sams is only 17" so 20" would be fine. I sit 8 feet back but 6 should be fine.


Yeah but Im not gonna use the stand. ;)

Anyone wanna buy a stand?LOL j/k

Well friends, it is with very mixed feelings that I announce that I no longer own this set. This was my first HD set, and so I will certainly remember it as such.

My horizontal position continued to drift, such that I couldn't center the picture even with the adjustment maxed out in the service menu (and you aren't supposed to have to adjust the horizontal shift anyways, listed as "FIX" in the SM). I also had the faint black lines on the left side.

My dream has always been to own a plasma, so I exchanged my Samsung (plus a sizable charge to my credit card :o ) for the Vizio 50 inch plasma. For what its worth, the exchange was hassle free at Sam's club (I owned the Samsung for 2 months to the day).

I wish you all the best, I'll check back here to see how you are all making out. I still have the service manual on CD, if any of you might be interested in it send me a PM. (EDIT: I paid $25 for the SM, so I'd like to get at least some of my money back ;) )

I have gone to different HT websites and so far this appears to be the only thread concerning the HCR4755W. Is it due to newness or is Samsung considered low grade? I just purchased this set in Nov. and its my first rear projection set(previous was Zenith 36" direct view CRT), so I am still going thru the adjustment(mentally and physically). I am just puzzled at the lack of info on it anywhere, I tried to get a service manual and was told it isn't available to the public.

RickB

Luckily for you, the guy in the post above yours is looking to unload a service manual.

I am seriously considering this set but one quick question....Would 20-22 inches high on a stand be good enough from around 6ft away?
22 inches was too high for me at 9-11 feet. I felt like I was looking UP at the screen from my recliner. The stand is the perfect height.

Just an FYI of something I found out tonight. This Set seems to be very sensitive to EMI. My receiver for my surround sound was making my convergence go off every time I turned it on while the tv was on. I am not sure what to do about that.

My HK receiver sits right next to the set and has no such effect. What kind of receiver is it?

I have my Pioneer on top of the set. No EMI problems.

I have read all 19 pages and I am still weary of the SD PQ on the 47". I am looking at three TVs. We will watch alot of SD TV so this one may out. Let me know what you think.

Sony KD-36XS955 - supposedly a great picture? still seems to SD issues if signal is not strong. I can get this w/ 5 year wrty for around $850. No bulb so no replacement!
Samsung HC-R4755W
Sony KDF-E42A10 - I saw this at CC and liked it better than Samsung DLP and even saw a SD signal that looked nice. But the bulb issue bothers me. I can get this for around $1550 w/ 5 yr wrty.

I would like to keep it under $1,000 and that is why the Sammy fits the bill. I heard about the following con on cnet: Has a 3-line digital comb filter, which is somewhat less favorable than some similarly priced TVs. For example, the Daewoo DSJ-4710CRA , a 47-inch TV at around $970, has a 3D digital comb filter. (A 3D filter is one of the best types available, and is "motion adaptive," meaning it utilizes a special method for clearing up the moving parts of the picture, as opposed to the static parts. One of the most effective types of filters currently available, a 3D filter improves image quality by using motion adaptive technology to filter the moving parts of the picture rather than the static parts.)

If the SD material is of good quality, the picture is fine. DVDs even on a non-progressive
scan player look good as well. There are certainly other TVs that handle SD better, but
for the budget minded folks such as myself, the R4755W is really turning out to be a great set,
Keep in mind that the Samsung has a built-in OTA tuner. Many TVs at the same price bracket
usually don't.


C Snyder

The repairman is finally coming out to replace some board for my grey line problem. He'll be here in an hour. I'll post after he gets here.

I have been following all of these posts w/ interest. I certainly appreciate everyone's input. They've been helpful. I am very satisfied w/ the pq on my hcr4755 on tv signals, however the ps2 that i use for dvd's is a different story. Before i bought this set, my son was storing a sony 50" lcd rp in my home. I got hooked on the wide screen, hdtv. As i mentioned, hdtv pq is pretty much the same as the sony I had, the dvd's thru the same ps2 are not as good (same ps2 settings, same compnent cable). I have used some of the aforementioned settings that people have recommended from their Avia experiences, but I have not touched the service settings. Any suggestions? I was thinking if the tv signal pq was good, why would service settings enhance dvd image quality? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I bought this tv from Sams about 3 months ago and love it!!! 1st hdtv crt I have owned and a big step up from the 29" sony I had. I have dishnetwork w/ the 942 hd/dvr , sony rcvr and samsung hd conversion dvd player and the picture quality to me is awesome. I picked this tv b/c of the antireflextive layer that it has b/c my living room is fairly bright w/ al the windows and I hated the washout I saw from other peoples bigscreens do to alot of light in the room. I don;t get any washout or fade when the wndows are open. Great tv for the price for sure.

When I purchased it I went all out and redid my whole system w/ the above mentioned stuff plus polk audio center, floor standing sides and velodyne 12"sub. I still have to purchase the rearcenter and sides and they will be polk as well.

Here is my setup in my custom made entertainment cabinet in my new house my wife and I finished in November. Pix are w/ a cheap 2.1 HP digicam so they aren't the best quality but you get the idea.

Nice set up, nabit. I'm surprised you have it so high off the floor. I also have mine mounted high. It is about 3 feet off the ground. Which I think works great. I tend to recline though, so I'm not looking up at the set, it's right in my eye line. If I were sitting on a couch, looking straight at the set, then it might be too high.

My service guy just left a few minutes ago. He brought a replacement board that Samsung recommended. He took a look at the lines and is thinking that it is the screens. I'm not convinced it is the screens. I'll just keep working with him until it's fixed. It's sad to say, but I think I'm getting used to the lines. They don't interrupt my viewing as much any more, I just look past them.

I'll keep you guys posted of any new developments.

Thanks mbarland!! Mine sits about 34" off the floor and I don't sit right on my couches either, I sit reclined but it works great either way. I like it just a bit high. Hell I still have the factory stand in my garage in the box never opened b/c I didn't needed it.

Something I forgot earlier was that I went to sams b/c the 3 yr warranty was only $80 compared to sears warranty at almost 200....

just bought the Akai 42in Rear Projection TV W/HD Tuner PT4250A $799 at kmart and will be picking it up tommorrow. it will be replacing a 30 year old 20" tv. superbowl should look better this year. still need a tv stand. I may use cinderblocks and a board temporarily. I hope I don't haave to tweak too much. I only have extended basic cable now and no dvd player but hope to upgrade to hd cable if it is not a wallet breaker. OTA for a while for me.

bat078 for $200 more you should have gone with the Sammy HC-R4355W from Sam's Club...the PQ is amazing and it is a bigger TV 47". It is worth the extra $200

i am very happy with my purchase and the picture quality is great even with standard analog cable. on a set top antenna I receive 10 digital channels which look even better. I have a very small living room with viewing no more than 8 feet and a larger screen might not be right for me. I did not have an extra $200 or a membership to that place anyway. superbowl has dictated that I buy now and I am more than happy. I plan on getting a progressive scan dvd player soon. will a non progressive scan player be ok as it supposedly converts it anyway?I also plan on going to digital HD cable later(comcast) take advantage of some better picture quality and HI DEF channels as well as getting to use the guide which only works on digital channels as I see on the OTA mode. I don't have a 5.1 system yet but the sound is good enough for a while and a big improvement over what I had. :p

the HC-R4355W is a 43" screen ? and the IKAI is exactly the same except it is a 42" screen and a slightly different case. it is made by samsung a virtual clone.

The Samsung R4355W is indeed 43". I believe YoungMoney21 just made a typo, the
47" is the R4755W which is what Sam's club carries.

C Snyder

Hi everyone!
I'm pretty sure I fixed up my "black lines on the left side of the screen" problem. It seems I caused it when I did my calibration wrong. Instead of adjusting the h_amp in the service menu to shrink the screen the right size, I had originally tried to pull the edges in with the calibration.

To fix it, I flipped back and forth between adjusting h_amp in the service menu, and the calibration screen. I tried my best to make sure all the boxes in the calibration were the exact same size, and used h_amp to get about 96% of the screen showing.

I used the Avia Home Theatre DVD with the overscan pattern to do that.

Now, my black lines are slowly fading. I think they got burned in a little bit.

My TV looks better then ever. I also used the Avia DVD to adjust the colors to almost perfect.

I have the following hooked up to it, all controlled by my harmony remote... wonderful!!!


I, too, have the harmony remote. I have not been able to find a command that will take me straight to the OTA input. I have found the ones for the component, dvi and s-video inputs, but the only way i know of right now to get to the OTA input is to start and the s-video and use input next once. The codes are not the clearest on the harmony website.

Thanks in advance.

I just added comcast digital HDTV service and got a cheap 800w samsung surround sound system with a 5 disc progressive scan dvd player. I am using the optical input on the reciever and dvi input to the tv. the cable box is set to 1080i and 16.9 and also set to upconvert all 480i programs to 480p. I am happy as **** now. all I need now is a tv stand and get rid of the plastic milk crates. :)

Wussup guys? A couple of questions...Is anyone using the optical audio on this TV? I have a 5yr old Aiwa stereo system & on 1 of the back outputs it says CD Digital Out (Optical). What im trying to do here is allow the audio to played out of my stereo through the subs & surround speakers with whatever audio im running, whether it be my DVD player,Xbox360,Cable etc. Is this possible with my connection on the Aiwa or do i really need a receiver? I used to have the set up im asking about using normal RCA's on my old Samsung HDTV but for whatever reason i can't get it to work with this TV, unless im missing something in my connections? My friend even came over & said i need to buy RCA's for every device i want the surround to be used b/c he couldnt figure out how to make it work through 1 pair of RCA's(my old setup). So someone plz tell me this is possible through the optical cable & if my Aiwa supports it? Ooo and any recommendations on the cable? Thanks so much =]

If the optical connector is like the one on my wife's old Awia, the optical is an output
only for the CD player. No other sound sources are output through it nor can it function
as an input. If you wish to use the Samsung's digital audio output, you will need a
compatible receiver.

C Snyder

If the optical connector is like the one on my wife's old Awia, the optical is an output
only for the CD player. No other sound sources are output through it nor can it function
as an input. If you wish to use the Samsung's digital audio output, you will need a
compatible receiver.

C SnyderAhh man, that sucks! Thanks a lot for responding though. Yea i see what you mean, cause it says CD. :(
One other question to whomever, i've read things concerning native resolutions of RPCRT HDTV's and from what i read was that there is no native res. for these. Can anyone confirm this for this TV? When i play my Xbox360, i see no difference in 720p & 1080i. But for some strange reason im seeing some sort of fast interference line scrolling from left to right(the size of the screen) when the Xbox360 is set to 1080i in the dashboard. Its very faint but does anyone know what that could be? Weak signal with the component cables that came with the 360?

Hard to say what the faint line is, but it does sound like some kind of noise or interference
in the signal. Maybe try plugging the XBox and/or TV through some sort of noise filter
or try a different socket. Could be the component cable itself. Again really hard to tell.

C Snyder

Anyone ever get a white type of line on the screen? It's not from the image it looks like it is on the actual screen itself. It looks like something liquid may have touched the screen.

I started thinking that it could be the $20 surge protectors im using? I just dont have it in me to spend $100+ on a Monster one. It's so wierd how when the X360 is set to 720p there's no faint lines but in 1080i, there is? I noticed these faint lines while in 1080i using my cable box as well, using component cables. As soon as i made the switch to DVI, it was gone. It could be a multitude of things, but why do i only see this using component in 1080i? Like i said its very faint & fast moving..Its just annoying, knowing its there.

Also, can anyone answer my other question? What is the native res. on this TV? I've read that RPCRT's don't have a native res. but this was in passing in another forum. I know it accepts 720p but is it upconverting everything to 1080i? I did notice while in the X360 dashboard, when i switch between 720p & 1080i...The text becomes a lil more crisp & thinner while set to 1080i. But playing the games look identical *shrug*

There are several threads floating around touching on this, but here is one of
the more recent responses:

Link (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7199115&&#post7199115)

C Snyder

Thanks for the link. So i guess the guy stating there's no native res. knows what he's talking about? So basically this TV should look great in both 720p & 1080i? Just wish i could pinpoint what's causing those lines going across my screen in 1080i ::sigh::

Sears was going to change the main board but it was taking to long and my 30 days was running out. So I returned it because even the repair man did not thank that was the problem, but while I still had the set I bought a 52" panasonic lcd and ran them side by side. The panny had a much better pic on HD , SD and DVD also the panny has slit screen and better depth of field (the pic looks much clearer as the camera pans back off main subject) the sammy always looked blurry on far away faces. The panny was on sale and CC gave me another 10% off plus a $300.00 mail in rebate so I paid $1633.00 plus 24 month same as cash. No convergence problems, no faint lines on left side and no burn in, so now I spend more time watching TV and less time adjusting convergence. Also the sound is so much better that I don't feel the need to use the A/V receiver as much. Don't mean to rip on the sammy so much but I had 2 sets with the same problem and read so many posts with faint lines and poor PQ. So if your looking at this set just beware of these problems and that there are other sets for just a little more (panny was just $20.00 mo. more) with less aggravation I'm glad I returned it. :)

Anyone have a picture of how the convergence grid should look when it is set perfect? Just trying to fine tune the picture and I want to get this lined up the best I can. Thanks.

Anyone have a picture of how the convergence grid should look when it is set perfect? Just trying to fine tune the picture and I want to get this lined up the best I can. Thanks.

Here is a picture (from page 16 of this thread ;) ) that I took of a set with factory convergence (at the store, no less :cool: )

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=48406

Hope this helps :)

Thanks Hiperco. I saw that one, but I was looking for one from someone who had screwed around with the settings and got it adjusted pretty good. I am still missing about a half an inch on my PS2. I have really bad overscan and I tried to adjust the setting, but when I do get it to shrink down, I have a really bad pincushion effect, and black around the sides of the picture.

I was in the market for another HDTV in the house, this time one for my game room, which will feature both the Atari 2600 and Xbox 360, amoung others. After reading up on sets that fell within my price range (~$1000, and that was pushing it), I convinced my wife on the HC-R4755W. So I head to Sam's club, and am disheartened to see none on display, and no boxes anywhere. Wandering the store, however, I happen upon one on a crate, labeled Open Box, and for a few hundred less than what it was retailing for, which was nice. It didn't have a remote, not an instruction manual, but I could live without those.

Getting it home and hooked up, I must say, thus far I'm unimpressed visually. I've read through every post in this forum, used my AVIA disc, tweaked the SM settings (I'll get into that in a second), tried my best on convergence (My remote doesn't have an Add/Save button, so I can't store settings I do on the Mute-1-8-3 convergence menu, and it needs it BADLY), and still can't quite get a) a vivid brightness without looking washed out and b) a sharpness in the corners and edges of the screen.

Now, I'm coming off a Samsung 46" DLP TV that is being used as our satellite HD (and formelly Xbox 360) TV. Am I just seeing the difference between the two, and need to either get used to it or find another? Is there something I missing that could help solve some issues?

Regarding issues, playing in the service menu, I was working on my horizontal centering, and horizontal size (shrink vert and horiz so you can see black borders, center, and stretch, as described in an earlier post). When I shrink vertical, I can get it so that I have black borders on top and bottom, so I can adjust that (albeit, barely. I get maybe 6 clicks before my borders are off the screen). However, with the horizontal shrinking, I can turn it to 0, and I STILL have roughly a 15 click swing from side to side (meaning, if I have the left edge barely visible on the screen, and then shift it to try and get the right edge, it takes about 15 clicks to do so). Obviously, having the horizontal shrunk to 0 terribly distorts the picture as well (convergence completely fails), so I obviously have some serious overscan issues. Is this normal?

At what point do I call Samsung? Does something need to break, or is this sufficient, or is there something more I can do first to try and solve the problem myself? Am I asking enough questions? :)

I want to love this TV. The size is perfect for the room, and since I need this only for gaming, I didn't want the slight lag issues that exist with the DLP. Any help that anyone offers will be greatly appreciated.

I encourage you to give Samsung a call, I had no problems getting through to thier tech support and they seemed helpful (although my problem required a service call).

I think some of your problems are normal. I can never get the convergence spot on it the corners and on the left side of the screen. Overscan is the nature of the beast. According to DVE the best I can do is 5% on the top and bottom and about 7.5%-10% on the sides.

Now to update those on my line problem. I've had the tech out here three times now. The first time he brought a replacement board, but thought it was in the screens, so he did nothing. Second time he replaced the screens, problem still there. The last time he was out he replaced the main board, which didn't fix it. He's coming out again to replace another board and said that if that doesn't work, then he'll work on getting another set. I'll keep you guys posted.

Update on the grey lines:

Had the service tech out again today. He replaced the deflection board this time. The early results are that the problem is fixed! So if you are suffering this problem, get them to put in a new deflection board, it's not in the main board, convergence board, or screens.

Well, I tried to call Samsung to get someone out to look at the set, complaining that the PQ was not up to snuff, and that I have a generally blurred image with HD signals, but the woman on the phone stated that it's just the way the TV is, and that I was just used to the DLP image from my other HD tv, and that there's nothing a tech would really be able to do about it....

Was it just that person I was speaking to, or is it unless the TV won't work, they won't send someone out?

Without proper convergence it won't look good. Otherwise it could be just the differences in technology. DLP tends to be very sharp, over or artificially sharp to some. A CRT by comparison will appear soft, but that's the technology. A CRT better replicates the film experience IMO.

If you aren't satisfied tell them you need to have the set looked at by a tech. Keep calling until you are happy. The least they can do is send a tech out to see if there are any problems and to do a half decent convergence (new my set was off in spots by as much as 1/4").

Well, I ordered a remote control for the TV today, which will had the Add/Del button on it which will allow me to save the convergence settings I so desperately need to change. I can see the difference in focus and clarity when I set it... I often will spend 20 minutes setting up the grid on the Mute 183 screen just to admire what could be... before I hit Exit since I can't save it yet :o

So, I know everyone is waiting with baited breath.. I will post an update when the remote arrives.

There is also a focus screen I found in one of the options in the Mute 183 screen. It showed a moveable crosshair like in the convergence screen. I'm assuming this works similarly to that, except on focus? Didn't see anyone writing a bout this screen, but does it work?

Well, after playing with the TV a bit with my new remote and being able to save the convergence(!!), the image has improved a bit. It's not DLP, but it's better. Focus in the corners is still off (games that utilize text down in the lower left corner in particular is fuzzy), but the set has grown on me.

An interesting side note regarding the Mute 1-8-3 convergence screen. I had mentioned before about being in a Manual Focus menu when I was playing around with the convergence on my other remote (The one that came with my Samsung DLP that I was using that unfortunately didn't have a Add/Del button). Turns out, the only way to GET to that screen is by hitting the PIP button.. a button that doesn't exist on the remote that actually belongs to the TV! I tried playing around with it, but didn't notice anything. Anyone else been to this menu and had success? Again, it's the Manual Convergence screen, you hit PIP (not on the remote that came with the TV, but any other samsung remote with a PIP button should work), and you get a Manual Focus screen, same white grid, same selectable region that you can play with...

Thoughts?

Hi All-

Im sorry if this has already been answered, but does anyone know the code to access the service menu on the HC-R4755W. I am trying to set my overscan.

Thanks

Jiggady James

It's in here somewhere.. with the power off, hit Mute 1-8-2 Power On.. should power up to the service menu... use at your own risk. Search this thread for the things you should and should not change.

I had looked at these a while back, after reading through this thread, but didn't pull the trigger. I was kind of kicking myself when they ran out of them at every store in my area. Then, the other day, I checked again, just for kicks, and lo and behold, a Sam's near me had them in stock! I picked one up today and will set it up this weekend. I'll post about my experiences once I get it up and running. Thanks for all the info, folks. I certainly owe my gradually improving (and easy on the wallet, eyes, & ears) Home Theater Experience to the fine folks here! Much obliged. Can't wait to see this set in action!

I have had the set for two months now and am about to get a replacement if I cannot get this fixed. Two weeks after purchase Samsung replaced my deflection board due to major overscan and centering issues. The tech they sent was capable at replacing the board, but did not take the time to adjust it. The second time he came out, he adjusted it, but now it has bad geometry and he wants to replace the deflection board again. I doubt it is a second bad deflection board. I told him to hold off. Sears is willing to let me exchange it for a new set (either exact exchange or a set of equal or greater cost). I really do not want to spend more money yet and would prefer to try to adjust the set myself first. Since the tech borked it the first time, would someone be willing to either PM me the factory settings for the Deflection board or post them here. Any help is appreciated.

Bought one of these a week ago and while fixing overscan in the service menu and messing with the convergence my geometry could be better(only touched v-amp and h-amp a little in the service menu and then plenty of messin with convergence service menu).

Anyone have any surefire tips to get all lines strait? I messed with string a bit and it seams to help if you do it right and go all out which I have not tried yet.

Anyways if anyone has any cant miss tips for the best way to get geometry right in the convergence menu please let me know.

I have not really tried to get the geometry perfect. Since I don't notice any issues
in normal viewing, I haven't messed with it. My advice is not to be too picky around
the edges. I don't think it well ever be perfect due to the small depth of these models.
Just get the middle parts the best you can (I started in the middle carefully working
my way outward).

C Snyder

Actually, through some careful adjusting I ended up with a very nice picture. I think the blue push is a tad high which is making it difficult to fully adjust the blue convergence, but I was able to make the geormetry issue go pretty much away. I used the overscan test pattern on DVE and was able to go about 5% in all four directions without distortion. Anything more then that really hurt the image. I can easily live with 5%.

I have never been able to get into the service convergence menu though. For some reason mute 1-8-3 does not work (mute-1-8-2 does however). So all my convergence has been done on the basic level.

I must say, for the price I am very pleased with my set. Especially with the built in HD Tuner. I live in an apartment complex which does not allow satalite and cable does not offer enough channels. But the built in tuner is letting me pull all the OTA HD channels for free and I am very happy with the results.

I have not really tried to get the geometry perfect. Since I don't notice any issues
in normal viewing, I haven't messed with it. My advice is not to be too picky around
the edges. I don't think it well ever be perfect due to the small depth of these models.
Just get the middle parts the best you can (I started in the middle carefully working
my way outward).

C Snyder


I will tinker with it over time I guess since I am the one who messed it up some, just want to get it back to what it was atleast orig before I messed with fixing overscan. I had to touch things in the first place because for example the cnn and espn scrolls were both being nearly entirely cut off out of the box from day one when I got the set.

I need to get avia or dve and make sure I have not reduced overscan too much, I have reduced it enough so that the scrolls will fully show and even the ABC on abc hd which seamed to be the most far to the right by far shows also just barely fully, I assume its the network putting it there and not the local station?

Also for the guy trying to get into service convergence, are you doing mute 183 while the tv is ON?

Having daily convergence drift on my set in basically the same spot overnight, the red drifts in the same area on the grid like clockwork when I turn it on the next day(and yes I let it warm up 30 mins or more before looking).

Ends up being about 2 maybe 3 quick clicks worth and seams to be red only though I could be wrong I will make sure tomorrow. Its also possible maybe its the green that is moving(when I looked at just green today I kind of felt maybe it had moved in those spots)

Problem it was the last one at SAMSCLUB 2 weeks ago exactly and I don't think they have gotten anymore in or I would exchange it. Not crazy about the idea of having boards replaced and stuff in a 2 week old set. But I guess I may only have that choice or just outright getting a refund for the set.

Also noticed since last night the cnn scroll for example is looking very funky, its not smooth anymore it like compresses in on itself and looks very strange.


Only thing I have messed with since getting the set is h-amp and v-amp to get to a bit over 5 percent overscan and then service convergence where I moved the entire grid to get it all centerd and did the best string grid I could(doubt I got the box sizes exactly right when I did messurements).

So can anyone basicly tell me or not if the convergence board is defective or its somthing I can correct?

Also noticed since last night the cnn scroll for example is looking very funky, its not smooth anymore it like compresses in on itself and looks very strange.

Based on this and your previous post, are you in the right viewing mode? Sounds like you are in Panaramic mode rather than Normal.

Based on this and your previous post, are you in the right viewing mode? Sounds like you are in Panaramic mode rather than Normal.

No was just bad geometry job when I used string I guess improperly to make my own overlay etc. I been searching here on avs and the net trying to find proper instructions for how to make one with little success.

I was at Sam's yesterday and they have the HC-R4755W back in stock.

Has anyone directly connected a computer to the DVI? 640x480 is the only resolution
that I can sync to that is usable. Anyone care to share their powerstrip settings?

C Snyder

I have an Nvidia 6600 connected directly to the tv and use the driver's default HDTV settings to send it 720P, 1080i works too but text is too small for my taste.

I am using an old ATI Radeon 8500 card. I have tried some of the built-in HDTV
resolutions within powerstrip, but only had success with one 1920x1080i setting.
At that size, I had the same problem of the text being too small. I could not read it.
I might have to use an DVI-Component adapter, but getting a straight DVI signal
should be possible once I know what the specs for the DVI input are.

C Snyder

Yes the text is hard to read at 1920x1080 but 1280x720 works very well.
I have some WMV-HD encoded DVDs and they work fine at 1080p. John

I tried one of the 1280x720 settings in powerstrip, but it would not sync up. Could
possibly be incompatible with my video card, but I find that unlikely. I will keep trying.


C Snyder

Has anyone here compared the hitachi 51F59 to this tv? I have had the samsung
for a bit over a month. However now I see the good deal going on with the hitachi and I am just assuming the hitachi has much better picture quality? Not to mention the screen is also bigger. Drawback to switching to it would be that the samsung goes on a stand which has been nice.

I haven't really read up on the new Hitachi's, but I doubt there has been any substantial improvements
made. Based on Hitachi's track record for RP CRT's, I would guess to say it edges the HC-4755W on picture
quality. Do keep in mind that you lose the convenience of a tv stand and it doesn't include an
intergrated HD tuner like the HC-4755W.

C Snyder

Ok, DVI to my tv is working great. I upgraded my OS from win98SE to win2000. For some
reason, the Catalyst drivers for 98 just didn't support my configuration. The win2000 drivers
worked right off the bat with little tweaking. Though I can't get my DVI to component adapter
to work, but no need at the moment.

C Snyder




I am using an old ATI Radeon 8500 card. I have tried some of the built-in HDTV
resolutions within powerstrip, but only had success with one 1920x1080i setting.
At that size, I had the same problem of the text being too small. I could not read it.
I might have to use an DVI-Component adapter, but getting a straight DVI signal
should be possible once I know what the specs for the DVI input are.

C Snyder

"I upgraded my OS from win98SE to win2000."
OK now I know why you had soooo much trouble!!!

Well, as one of the early owners of this TV I'm sad to report that after several tech visits and basically gutting the TV and replacing it with new parts my lovely Samsung is now headed to TV heaven.

A TV that looked so great yet eventually had continual convergence issues and looked less than what it was capable of. I'm sad to report this because I thought I had a great deal but I thought I'd let you all know (those who care, lol).

Anyway, I'm faced with a new delema and I think I'm going to post it in a new thread but Samsung is offering me (after a $400 upgrade fee) a DLP RP HDTV (HLS4666W) but I'm conflicted.

Just recently several companies are talking about their new LED based DLP TV's and frankly, I was never a great fan of DLP simply because of the color wheel/rainbow thing and the dang high cost and sporatic nature of UHP lamps in DLP's. I'm honestly, tech freaked out about jumping into a DLP TV (while a good performer TV wise) to later spend $250-300 on a freaken UHP lamp.

So, I don't know what to do....some help/guidence would be GREAT!!!!! (note, you don't have to respond here...I'm going to open a new thread about this.

I just bought this TV and a lot of you guys have scared me from using the SM. I've had it for about 3 weeks now. I think I'm going to do manual convergence for red and blue from the regular menu and then use some of the settings posted earlier. I've played by 360 and it doesn't seem like I have an overscan issues or anything. Can anyone post some contrast/brightness etc settings so I can get a good idea of what to do? Thanks.

As far as settings go, try to get a hold of a calibration disc like DVE or Avia. Even
one of those THX endorsed movies have a simple set of calibration tools included.
These will help set your brightness, contrast, etc. for your viewing enviroment.
Unfortunately, the settings you choose affect all the input sources, but the factory
settings (standard, movie, dynamic) can be changed to work around this limitation.

C Snyder

I just bought this TV and a lot of you guys have scared me from using the SM. I've had it for about 3 weeks now. I think I'm going to do manual convergence for red and blue from the regular menu and then use some of the settings posted earlier. I've played by 360 and it doesn't seem like I have an overscan issues or anything. Can anyone post some contrast/brightness etc settings so I can get a good idea of what to do? Thanks.

Honestly, I don't recommend it...take the safe way and stick to the user menu and using the calibration DVD's.

As far as settings go, try to get a hold of a calibration disc like DVE or Avia. Even
one of those THX endorsed movies have a simple set of calibration tools included.
These will help set your brightness, contrast, etc. for your viewing enviroment.
Unfortunately, the settings you choose affect all the input sources, but the factory
settings (standard, movie, dynamic) can be changed to work around this limitation.

C Snyder
THX endorsed movies? I have close to 500 movies so it's possible that I have one of these. Where would I find these tools on the DVD? Thanks.

The DVD release of the original Star Wars trilogy have these. You can access
them from the main DVD menu. Most of all the THX mastered releases also have the
same calibration tool menu.

C Snyder

Our Sams has the HC-R4355WX - Does anyone know the differences between the 2?

The size. The R4355 is 43" vs the R4755 is 47". Interesting that Sam's also
has the R4355. I thought only Kmart carried it.

C Snyder

Well I just wanted to share my whole story and say good bye to all of you owners out there.

In september I purchased a HC-R4755w from sears with a protection plan (thank god). I noticed feint black lines on the left so I called service. They came out and couldn't figure it out. So I got a replacement. This one did the same thing. Since I had just got the replacement they were able to send someone right back out to replace it again. So this is the 3rd tv and it does the same thing. Unnacceptable so instead of replacing again I figured I would have it fixed. So in february I call for service. They order a board that is back ordered and then get it in. They bring it out and it is not the right board. The tech orders another. This one is incorrect too. Now I am getting P.O.ed so I am calling every day. They send out another board that is the correct one. But the board DOESN'T WORK. So now I want my money back. I am calling sears all the while complaining. They tell me to try one more time and then the tech will reccomend replacement. Ok fourth board is not the correct board either. Also remember I have to take off of work every time they come out. So after that I yell at people from sears and the service center manager is talking to the sears manager. After many many phone calls this gets sent to the store for a replacement. They do not carry this model any more either (thank god again). I spoke with the store today and found out that they were going to roll my protection plan to the new TV and I had $1799 to spend. So I am getting a sony KDL-46e2000 next tuesday.

I just wanted to say thank you to all of you with your helpfull info about the samsung. I hope all of yours are better than mine was.

Really does seem to be a toss up. So far mine is working well. The convergence
is not perfect, but it does not detract from my viewing experience. Had I paid more
than I did, then I might feel different.

C Snyder

HQ-HR4755WY
I bought a Spyder TV calibrator. Here are my settings after calibration.
Contrast 51
Brightness 46
Sharpness 30 ( your choice, not part of the calibration)
Color 65
Tint G42---R58
Color normal
A friend of mine has this set also, his settings after using the Spyder to calibrate are.
He chose to modify the custom setting.
Contrast 34
Brightness 34
Sharpness 50
Color 65
Tint G40---R60
Color cool
Notice there are some large differences and some small differences. Well for a $1000 they are just going to get them kinda close. If you want every set to come out fully calibrated, this would add about $100~200 to the price. So at least buy that calibration DVD, or the Spyder. John

Found in another post:


Mute, 1, 8, 3 = Brings up the service convergence grid
Arrow buttuns = Move cursor around grid
7 = Selects Red to be adjusted (a R should appear above the letters VGA)
8 = Selects Green to be adjusted (a G should appear above the letters VGA)
9 = Selects Blue to be adjusted (a B should appear above the letters VGA)
Press 4 once to select Line Adjustment; Press 4 twice to select entire Grid Adjustment
Channel up/down adjusts convergence up/down
Volume up/down adjusts convergenge left/right
Button under 7 = turns Red gun on/off
Button under 8 = turns Green gun on/off
Button under 9 = turns Blue gun on/off
When done press Add button to save adjustments

1 is the factory unconverged
2 is factory converged
3 is recall last saved setting...

or something like that anyway.

Be careful... once you save it seems.. there's no going back!

My convergance is off and i did this and all the lines are lined up now and i think its all set but i dont have the ADD button on my remote to save it. What do i do????

Are you not using the factory remote? On the factory remote it is under the sliding
cover next to the sleep button. It is labeled "Add/Del".

C Snyder

the remote i have doesnt have the slide down part. i have the R4755w, i bought the floor model and i think they just gave me any remote they could find. It works but it doesnt have the add/del button or slidedown part.

I would complain to the store. They should replace the remote for you. The TV
technically doesn't "function properly" without it. If the store leaves you hanging,
contact Samsung. I bet they can help.

C Snyder

has anyone tried using an upconverting DVD player with this TV? If so, how much is the picture improved?

I have used the HD941 with this set. I did notice some difference with subtle details
having more clarity, but overall nothing earth shattering. The HD941 was hooked to
the DVI and component (with up-converting hack). The DVI looked better, but the
component input was never calibrated so I wasn't able to make a fair comparison.
I believe PQ will utimately depend on the quality of the player. The HD941 is a fair
player at best. Check this site (http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/main.html) for suggestions. I think the new Oppo DV-970HD
would be a good choice without paying a hefty sum.

C Snyder

This is just a FYI for anyone out there wanting to do a manual convergence. I have the hc-r4355w and love this tv for it's price/performance. After reading this thread I decided to run the manual convergence, glad I did because mine was way off on the edges. Well, my joy didn't last long, I pressed 5 on the remote while in the convergence menu and while trying to figure out what it did I accidentally punched in a code that changed the convergence on my screen to something that looks like crap. Actually, you can enter a whole bunch of codes that changes the way your screen looks. It seems to be factory default convergence settings depending on what model you own. I didn't write down what version my model was but I ended up with thinking "435" was the best match for my tv. Anyways, now my convergence grid looks like one big wave and it's going to take a lot of time to fix it so please be careful when messing with settings. In hindsight I wish I never found this thread and just left well enough alone because I was happy with how the picture looked out of the box.

Mute 183 brings up the convergence. Is the menu you activated? Here is a quick
rundown of some of the options:

1 - No Convergence
2 - Factory set convergence
3 - Previous user defined convergence
4 - Toggles line adjust/Entire grid
5 - ?????
6 - Another convergence selection
7 - Red Gun alignment
8 - Green Gun alignment
9 - Blue Gun alignment
"-" - Turn Red Gun On/Off
0 - Turn Green Gun On/Off
PreCH - Turn Blue Gun On/Off

add/del - save changes

You have to press add/del before anything is saved. Otherwise the convergence
defaults back to its last known state prior to any changes you make inside the menu.
There is a better description of all the options in this thread, but hopefully this will get
you on the right track.

C Snyder

Mute 183 brings up the convergence. Is the menu you activated? Here is a quick
rundown of some of the options:

1 - No Convergence
2 - Factory set convergence
3 - Previous user defined convergence
4 - Toggles line adjust/Entire grid
5 - ?????
6 - Another convergence selection
7 - Red Gun alignment
8 - Green Gun alignment
9 - Blue Gun alignment
"-" - Turn Red Gun On/Off
0 - Turn Green Gun On/Off
PreCH - Turn Blue Gun On/Off

add/del - save changes

You have to press add/del before anything is saved. Otherwise the convergence
defaults back to its last known state prior to any changes you make inside the menu.There is a better description of all the options in this thread, but hopefully
this will get you on the right track.

C Snyder

Thanks for your reply. Yes, this was the menu I used. Mistakenly I pressed "5" the
one you don't know and entered a random number of keys which totally changed
my convergence. To me "5" appears to be a way to change the factory default
convergence settings for your particular model. The worst part is after entering
the random code it erases the previously saved settings under "3". I realigned my
convergence back to a decent setup but nowhere as good as it used to be.
Anyways, the point was just stay away from hitting "5" because you will regret
it. :rolleyes:

Ok this is really strange but it worked. I had my cable box hooked up via
component input 1. This is the input I screwed up my convergence on. For
the fun of it I disconnected the component input and used the dvi to dvi input
off the cable box and "voilla" my convergence is perfect again. So I reconnected
the component input again and magically the convergence is fixed also. Not
sure how to explain why this worked but I am happy again. Maybe this may help
someone else out there.

God, haven't posted in here for a while.

I love this freaking tv. I've got my alienware hooked up via DVI and I can play HL2 in 1920x1080 with everything on the highest detail and it looks amazing.

I moved to Coppell and bought a $10 vhf/uhf antenna and ota hd is amazing.

I've got one question. Anyone have any idea how to sharpen the screen? I setup the tv with the convergence stuff like a year ago when I bought it and when I play on my computer, the edges of the screen are a bit blurry. Any ideas?

I believe the fuzzy edges are the tradeoff for the short depth of the CRTs. Maybe
some hardcore tweaking can overcome it, but I am not willing to try it.

C Snyder

I've got one question. Anyone have any idea how to sharpen the screen? I setup the tv with the convergence stuff like a year ago when I bought it and when I play on my computer, the edges of the screen are a bit blurry. Any ideas?
I do the manual convergence every 2-3 months. The corners tend to need a little tweek around that time.

I do the manual convergence every 2-3 months. The corners tend to need a little tweek around that time.

Bah. Too much work for such a little thing. You can't notice the blurriness while playing games or watching hd, just when it's sitting on the desktop. I'll probably be getting a monitor for Chirstmas, so I'll just move the computer to it and still be completely satisfied with the hd aspect.

I never thought the day would come when I could finally get hd signals. Hd is so freaking glorious. Now, to buy a 5.1-7.1 surroundsound system for that dolby digital. :p

Hadn't posted in a LONG while... but just got the Toshiba HD-A2 and hooked it up to the trusty ole HCR-4755W... and I am a little underwhelmed. I am wondering if perhaps someone might comment in general about HDDVD in general when passing the video over an HDMI to DVI cable... or perhaps if I am missing some "make it pop" setting on the Samsung.

I have an old Pioneer 434 which does component "near progressive" output...

I just thougth HDDVD would be a new level. It simply looks as wonderful to me as nearly everything this workhorse of a TV puts out. Still a great TV!!!!

Could it be a 1080i vs 1080p problem with the TV?

I also have a question. This TV has an internal HD tuner, I have an antenna yet I cannot seem to figure out how to tune in these channels. I connected the antenna to the TV coax in.

Any ideas?

thanks
dj

I think it is too early to tell about PQ since most HD-DVD content is basically converted
DVDs. Search on Google and this site to see what titles most folk are using to show off
HD-DVD capabilities. Since HD-DVD currently allows full resolution over component, try
that for a comparison to the DVI input. Just for kicks you could attempt to enable 1080p
over the DVI. 1080p works from my HTPC, but a stand-alone player might not.

C Snyder



Hadn't posted in a LONG while... but just got the Toshiba HD-A2 and hooked it up to the trusty ole HCR-4755W... and I am a little underwhelmed. I am wondering if perhaps someone might comment in general about HDDVD in general when passing the video over an HDMI to DVI cable... or perhaps if I am missing some "make it pop" setting on the Samsung.

I have an old Pioneer 434 which does component "near progressive" output...

I just thougth HDDVD would be a new level. It simply looks as wonderful to me as nearly everything this workhorse of a TV puts out. Still a great TV!!!!

I am assuming you have the Antenna in the ANT1 coax input? The other coax is for
cable. You need to active the setup menu and find channel scan. After you perform
the scan, your local channels should work.

C Snyder


I also have a question. This TV has an internal HD tuner, I have an
antenna yet I cannot seem to figure out how to tune in these channels.
I connected the antenna to the TV coax in.

Any ideas?

thanks
dj

Could it be a 1080i vs 1080p problem with the TV?

I also have a question. This TV has an internal HD tuner, I have an antenna yet I cannot seem to figure out how to tune in these channels. I connected the antenna to the TV coax in.

Any ideas?

thanks
dj

there are 2 coax inputs. you need to connect it to the one that says ANT IN.

Thanks for the responses... I am wondering if maybe it is the "there's not really 1080 lines on a CRT TV" issue so I am not really seeing all the HDDVD can put out?

Most HD CRTs can easily do 1080. The 9" Mitsubishi guns that so many rave about
can do even more. Two things I would check: 1st, make sure you player is outputing
at 1080i (or 720p if you prefer). 2nd, have you manually adjusted the convergence?
The manual convergence in the regular setup menu does a decent job if you are not
keen about using the mute,1,8,3 version. If you are looking for the sharp, ridged edges
that micro sets puts out, then you will not get that with a RP CRT. One other thing
that I almost forgot is calibrating all the picture settings (contrast, brightness, etc.)
This made a noticable difference for my DVD viewing.

C Snyder

so, not sure how i missed this before, but i discovered last night after watching football on a friend's LCD that i am missing picture around the edges. after reading posts here it sounds like it is due to overscan, and also that most attempts to remedy this via the SM either don't work or wind up with making things worse.

can someone just confirm for me that there is essentially nothing i can do about this and that all RPTVs suffer the same problem? i also assume that samsung would not consider this a problem and therefore not return/refund would be available.

i am quite disappointed with this as i did a lot of homework before buying this set and either didn't read problems with overscan or didnt know what it would mean for me.

thanks.

Overscan is actually intentionally designed into CRT based sets (not just RPTVs). It was originally introduced to allow for aging of CRT deflection circuits.

Most TVs don't let you see the outermost 5 percent or so of the image, which is why nothing "important" is broadcast in those outer edges. The fixed pixel technology is probably going to be changing that, however.

It doesn't bother me on TV viewing, but for some games on my Xbox 360 I notice it.

Has anybody run the test that is described at: hometheatermag com hookmeup 0506halfrez

If I do this on my SP-43Q5 (which is the european version of this tv) then it fails, I used a very simple test patern (attached) which is 1920x1080 and has alternated black and white lines. The tv does not show the lines but show a flashing grey square on the horizontal lines and a staidy
So if a combine this with the above artical then the tv shows 1080i as 540p which is 540 line instead of 1080 lines.
I'm currently in a discussion with Samsung support but that is a very slow process and they do not give me a direct answer if this tv actualy displays 1080 lines in the 1080i mode or that it downscales it to 540p.
Can anybody do this test and post the results? (to see how the picture should look like just open it on a pc screen)

Quick question:

Does anyone have a HD-DVD player running on their tv? I want to coerce my family into getting me one for Christmas this year, but if I can't hook it up via DVI, then there's no point I suppose. Maybe a HDMI to DVI converter would do the trick.

A HDMI to DVI cable works just fine for my Upconverting DVD player.

Why couldn't you hook up the HD DVD player via component?

I really didn't know that HD-DVD have component outputs. Does component work as well as DVI? Should I go with a component hook up over running an HDMI to DVI cable?

One thing... does anyone have an upconverting dvd player hooked up to your set? I mean, if I can't get an HD-DVD player, an upconverting dvd player should work out ok... maybe.

I have a Philips Upconverting DVD player hooked up via HDMI to DVI cable. Looks great (some graininess in dark scenes).

HD-DVD players should have component connections.

Input/Output connections for the Toshiba HD-A2:
1 x HD component output (RCA phono x 3) - Rear, 1 x Composite video output (RCA phono) - Rear, 1 x S-Video output (4 pin mini-DIN) - Rear, 1 x Audio line-out (RCA phono x 2) - Rear, 1 x HDMI (19 pin HDMI Type A) - Rear, 1 x Digital audio output (optical) (TOS Link) - Rear, 1 x Network (RJ-45) - Rear, 2 x USB - Front

I have a samsung HC-R4351W that does not want to power up. I hit the power button and it tries to come on but the power light flashes a few times and thats it. i see i can buy a service manual for this model but am wondering if anyone else has had this problem before i do so

Sounds like some sort of power issue. I'm not sure if rear-projections have a flyback transformer like direct-view CRTs,
but if so I guess this might be the culprit. I will look at the service manual for mine (if I can find it) and see what it says.

I'm thinking power issue as well, just didn't know if anything like that was covered in the service manual. didn't want to buy it if it won't help this problem some of these manuals don't cover a lot. Appreciate the look

Unfortunately, my copy of the service manual is not complete. It does not have any troubleshooting information related to your problem.

I still have a copy of the SM floating around, I'll take a look. (More than likely I will forget, so send me a PM this evening when I'm home ;) )

I have a Samsung HC-R4351W, the red light to show power is on when you go to power up , it turns on then shuts off in like 3 seconds, was wondering if anyon new what the problem is???

My guess is a bad transformer in the power supply circuits. Not much
info, but just my gut feeling.

Wow really old thread, but my question is i have this set in bedroom(47) and im putting a second PS3 in there over component. Do i want to set ps3 to 1080i or 720. I see set accepts both but but what does the set want to display at?

I believe the native resolution is 720p.

And yes, this is an old thread. Good to see it back up there though - great tv.