Picked up the 60 inch A20 w/ the stand at Costco this weekend.

I had a question about the tuner. Is there anywhere you can check what the signal strength is? My old Panny would give me a percentage value, which was helpful in positioning my antenna. This TV is coinciding with a move, so I need to know how to best point and adjust my indoor antenna again. The signal seems pretty strong regardless of what I do (only 5 miles from the towers, vs the 25 it used to be), but I'd like to maximize it the best I can.


Thanks!

I picked this also up at Costco this weekend... Love the look of the TV, but the quality is really lacking. Not sure if I got a lemon or not, but it seems very dim to me, and pq looks bad. Anytime there is motion, there is blurring it seems like. I cant seem to get it sharp at all... Gotta try to figure it out or take this back (I wish my costco had the 57" 1080p Mitsu or Sammy)

are you watching SD or HD? Also have you calibrated it at all using at least AVIA or something? Mine out of the box had some issues until I fiddled with it for a while. I also view it in a very dark room which helps. I never notice any real blurring though and I play a lot of Xbox 360 on mine with fast motion.

I calibrated with Avia. I see the blurring with everything, DVDs, SD, and HD (HD is obviously harder to see it). I havent hooked up my 360 yet (havent even opened it yet since I got it this weekend). I view in a completely light controlled room as well. It seems to always also be kinda grainy, even with sharpness lower than Avia Calibrated... Very disappointing

sounds like you got something wrong with your tv cuz none of that sounds right. my HD channels are pimping , so is my 360, SD is crap and always will be. The only thing I really see grain in is dark reds. I would swap it out and see if a newer set fixes this.

I picked this also up at Costco this weekend... Love the look of the TV, but the quality is really lacking. Not sure if I got a lemon or not, but it seems very dim to me, and pq looks bad. Anytime there is motion, there is blurring it seems like. I cant seem to get it sharp at all... Gotta try to figure it out or take this back (I wish my costco had the 57" 1080p Mitsu or Sammy)

I've had my A60 since March of this year using it 6-8 hours a day, it was too bright so I turned it down. What is your input? Cable, Sat or off air. The Cable folks here had grainy reception and I was told that's the best it's going to get...now I have Dishnetwork and the reception is excellent on HD. SD is still better than what the Cable folks offered.

Yeah, i am thinking more that I just have a Bad TV set. I have to have Picture and brightness up pretty high (or turn Gamma up) to get it to watchable now... Will be getting another one from Costco on Sunday I hope. Anyone know if Costco will let me take just the TV back, but a new TV that comes with the stand, and just give them the stand from the new one instead of unhooking everything from the TV stand?

I want to buy a spare lamp for my 55A20 to have ready when mine burns out. My set was made 6/05 so I'm expecting a burn-out fairly soon...

Sony wants $199 for the LAMP BLOCK ASSY XL-2200U

My extended warranty doesn't cover lamps so I'm looking for an alternate source for less money. Has anybody found a good distributor of this lamp for less than Sony's retail price?

thanks

Yeah, i am thinking more that I just have a Bad TV set. I have to have Picture and brightness up pretty high (or turn Gamma up) to get it to watchable now... Will be getting another one from Costco on Sunday I hope. Anyone know if Costco will let me take just the TV back, but a new TV that comes with the stand, and just give them the stand from the new one instead of unhooking everything from the TV stand?

I'm not sure REL77, if it was me I would call ahead and ask them that question. I know what you mean about the stand...as I recall the stand is heavier than the TV set. Let us know what the out come is...also check the build date on your set.

Know this is a dead thread but could really use some help. I'm experiencing the exact same thing as rel77 i have to jack up my brightness to 75-80 to be able to make out certain dark scenes that show normally on other TVs. The best way i can describe it that someone else could possibly check would be to use the THX test that comes with some DVDs.

When it comes to the brightness check i can't even see the THX logo in the center if i have my brightness jacked up to 100. At 100 i only get 5 out of the 7 shades that run across the top of that test to show. Build date on my TV is July 2005 (i bought the TV as an open box from Fry's about a 3 weeks ago and i knew they were full of sh*t when they said it was too big so the people returned it, but now i'm thinking they used it alot then returned it). Going to check the hours used in just a second.

Ok i'm totally lost on this service menu deal to check the hours. I followed the instructions

A20 Lamp time..

Screen Display Method
To access service mode, press the buttons on the Remote Commander sequentially, in rapid succession, as shown below:
1. Press DISPLAY Channel 5 Volume + POWER
2. Press JUMP until the PANEL service menu displays.
3. To display the Lamp time, press 2 until the OPTION_E category displays.
4. The LampTM is the fi rst item in the OPTION_E category.
(If the LampTM item is not displayed, press 1 until the LampTM item displays.)
exam
Item
Hours On/Off Cycle
ple
PANEL NVM OK 9 OPTION_E
0 LAMP 0 Diff 1
LampTM LampCT 14 71
Category
The screen displays:
“Total lamp time is 14 hours” and “Total lamp ON/OFF cycle is 71 times”
NOTE: If replacing the lamp, reset the lamp time by pressing Channel 3 Mute ENT .
WRI-EXE(Character color is Red) is momemtarily displayed and LampTM is reset to “0”.
5. To display the Panel time, press 1 until the PanelTM item displays.
example
PANEL NVM OK 9 OPTION_E
7 SH SFT1 10 Diff 1
PanelTM 14h
The screen displays:
“Total Panel time is 14 hours”
NOTE: You cannot reset the Panel time with the Service menu.
Exiting Service Mode
After completing the changes exit service mode by turning off the set using the Remote Commander or the power switch.

Am i doing this right, cause i'm getting nothing. I press the display button, then press the 5 button, then press the volume (the one at the bottom of the remote, then the power button (the rectangle one not the circle one)?

Michael, I'm giving you a bump in order to get your Q an answer, I had the same problem. Maybe the fact that this thread is showing little traffic is a good sign--nobody having trouble with their sets.

Try the A10 threads, most tips are cross platform. The A20 service menu is differently laid out but the access method is the same.

Has anyone figured out the if red push tweaks that are used for the A10 series will work for the a20 models? The service menus seem to be totally different and A10 tweaks are more numerous than A20. Just received this model(60A20) about 2 weeks ago in exchange for a KDP57WS655(RPCRT) and I've read all the threads and looked in the service menu, but can't find the answers. Any help would be appreciated.

not sure where to post this cuz i think ist the same tv so...

I just notcied this tonight while watching "Lost", there seems to be a bright spot on the top left side of the screen. Its not bad when the picture is bright but its really annoying in dark sences. Anyone else has this problem? And is there a way to solve it?

Here are some pic of what it looks like:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v466/mariusdavis/DSCI0006.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v466/mariusdavis/DSCI0005.jpg

Are you sure that it's not a reflection from a light source in your room?

Are you sure that it's not a reflection from a light source in your room?

Positive. When I turned the TV off it went away.

[QUOTE=Johnny_Darko]not sure where to post this cuz i think ist the same tv so...

I just notcied this tonight while watching "Lost", there seems to be a bright spot on the top left side of the screen. Its not bad when the picture is bright but its really annoying in dark sences. Anyone else has this problem? And is there a way to solve it?

If that's a greenish "blob" of pixels, I had the same problem for about 2 days when my set was new. It was always in the same place but not quite the same shape. I called for service but about 2 days before they were scheduled to arrive, the problem went away and hasn't come back in over a year.
Sorry I cannot tell you what it is or was but you should certainly get a tech out to take a look. Hopefully you're still under warranty.

bump

Just finished dealing with thermal fuse problem with KDF-E55A20 LCD television. That makes three out of four TV's having this same problem. All four have August/September manufacture dates. This last TV was two weeks out of warranty, but Sony agreed to pay labor and parts for this TV. However, I had to pay for the "Evaluation Fee," which was $99.95. This entire process took a little over a month plus to get the TV fixed. Sony did their blessing, then I had to make an appointment with the TV repair person, then he saw the 6 flashing lights and said it needed a thermal fuse, which after three TV's I already knew. He then had to order the part, which took a week. Then It took another week and a half to get the TV repair man back to do a 30 minute job. It was good for Sony to pay for labor/parts out of warranty, but Sony should have had a recall for this Television. I think the TV repair thing is a racket anyway. The entire situation left a bad taste in my mouth with Sony TV's in general. I do not think it was handled properly. WolfpackRon!!!

You have 4 of these? Any job openings where you work? Anyhow, I would have argued very hard about paying for a repair on the thermal fuse. Sony knew this problem existed (How could they not?) and was the result of a change in vendors of this particular part. They even released a service bulletin regarding this. When they went back to the original vendor of this part the problem ended. At any rate, they knew about this problem, and should have fixed all defective sets regardless of warranty. By the way, I believe I was the first one to report this problem here, and Sony did fix my set under warranty, but the experience left a bad taste in my mouth.

Hi everyone...newbie here...I bought this TV for my parents from Fry's...got the last one in their Houston stores for a great price...Tv is great...SD channels were pretty so so from the Motorola Cable Box..Just got the Cablecard in for them today...For Time Warner Houston, you just go to a customer service center and trade in the box and they give you the card...Only 75 cents a month....Anyways...everything seems to be working ok...SD channels and HD is amazing...much better then with the cable box...looks almost as good as SD Direct TV

Anyways, quick question...They have digital cable and also had one international channel...(530, Zee TV) and it doesn't seem to be working...I called Time Warner and they are coming out Friday...Shouldn't all the channels that worked with the cable box work with the cable card?

Thanks!

edit: Time Warner called back...ended up they had to ping the cable card...it works now..thanks!

Yesterday my boss's kdfe55a20 made a clicking sound and went dark. The LED turned from green to flashing red. Does anyone have any experience with an issue like this? He has already ordered home service, but if it's something like a fuse then it would be easy to fix himself.

Yesterday my boss's kdfe55a20 made a clicking sound and went dark. The LED turned from green to flashing red. Does anyone have any experience with an issue like this? He has already ordered home service, but if it's something like a fuse then it would be easy to fix himself.

How many times does the light flash before pausing? If it is six times it is the thermocoupler fuse. Unless he is technically adept I would not recommend changing it himself especially if it is under warranty.

Thanks for the response hoosierfan227. He didn't mention how many times it flashed.

But he had a service rep out today to fix the set (under warranty) and it sounded like that was exactly the problem. He wasn't sure exactly what fuse, but it was a fuse. He said it was located close to the lcd and that a number of components had to be removed to get access to it.

not sure where to post this cuz i think ist the same tv so...

I just notcied this tonight while watching "Lost", there seems to be a bright spot on the top left side of the screen. Its not bad when the picture is bright but its really annoying in dark sences. Anyone else has this problem? And is there a way to solve it?

Here are some pic of what it looks like:

Any update on your problem? Did your spot go away?

I just noticed it a couple of days ago on my 60A20 set. I have it since February of this year. Guess I'm going to have to call the tech guy this week...

Can't post any pics yet unfortunately, but my green blob is in the middle on the left side of the screen...

Does anyone know if the optical out on the rear of the KDF-E55A20 is only for HD tv signals being broadcast over the air.

What I want to do is connect my dvd player to the rear of the TV via HDMI, and then use the optical out to my A/V receiver, but I can't get it to work.

Thanks.

From what i have read most HDMI devices only support 2 channel audio (stereo). not 5.1 yet. i would hook up the fiber directly to your amp from your dvd player.

Well, the fourth Sony KDF-E55A20 thermal fuse went last night fifteen minutes prior to company arriving to watch Polar Express. The good news is that I got to watch Phillip Rivers and the Chargers on a 19" TV, not to forget LT. The bad news is that I will probably watch all the bowl games on the 19" TV as well. All because Sony is too cheap to have a recall on this Television. Because the repair process is so slow, it will take a month to have my Sony TV repaired. (see above post) Four of four KDF-E55A20 TV's made in August/September have had this problem. This TV is out of warranty, but I purchased the TV on VISA so it should be under their warranty. But the inconvience is the kicker. It will be hard for me to buy another Sony HDTV because of the poor service. Fair Warning, WolfpackRon.

Anyone have a part number or source for this thermal fuse for the KDF-E55A20 TV? Thanks in advance, WolfpackRon.

Well, the fourth Sony KDF-E55A20 thermal fuse went last night fifteen minutes prior to company arriving to watch Polar Express. The good news is that I got to watch Phillip Rivers and the Chargers on a 19" TV, not to forget LT. The bad news is that I will probably watch all the bowl games on the 19" TV as well. All because Sony is too cheap to have a recall on this Television. Because the repair process is so slow, it will take a month to have my Sony TV repaired. (see above post) Four of four KDF-E55A20 TV's made in August/September have had this problem. This TV is out of warranty, but I purchased the TV on VISA so it should be under their warranty. But the inconvience is the kicker. It will be hard for me to buy another Sony HDTV because of the poor service. Fair Warning, WolfpackRon.


Add me to the list. Sony KDF-E55A20 thermal fuse. Got it replaced today. Mine had an October build date.

Anyone have a part number or source for this thermal fuse for the KDF-E55A20 TV? Thanks in advance, WolfpackRon.
191002393

http://www.partstore.com/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductSKU=8586325&ProductType=PART&ModelID=537455 :)

Thanks for the info, WolfpackRon.

Anyone using the Oppo DVD player? If so how do you have 2 different settings? One for DVD and one for TV? I ask this because I am going to get an HDMI switcher and run both the Cable and TV through the HDMI input since I only have one. Since that will be video 6 is there any other way to be able to run 2 different settings? Im having a brain fart on this.

Thanks,

Paul

Edit: Should I just use component for the TV (HD) and the HDMI for the DVD player.

Interesting question...I have been thinking about getting an HDMI switcher as well, but....why not just use BOTH HDMI connectors on the TV if you want separate settings? One for Cable & one for DVD.

I also have the new Oppo DVD player (the one with HDMI) and the Sony TV....but honestly at the moment (as a first solution...I only got the TV last week, replacing an older TV & DVD player in what was an S-video-based A/V config) have HDMI for Cable & S-video to the Oppo.....and frankly both are giving stunning results. I am sure the DVD will get better with HDMI, just haven't gotten around to running a 2nd cable through my wall yet.

And speaking of weird questions.....how pray tell would one use an AVIA of VE disk to fine-tune an input that is NOT being powered by a DVD player in the first place? Am I missing something (other than the calibration disk that I have yet to purchase)? In the meantime I have my inputs visually adjusted (i.e. cranked way down from factory defaults) and am thoroughly enjoying it.

Paul H:

Did you get your DVD player yet? I am very interested in how it turns out. I have put off getting one because of the 1 HDMI port and I really didn't want to get a switch. I also considered using the Oppo patch to allow upconversion over Component.

Let us know what you did.

I've had this TV for over a year and really enjoy it (50a20). One thing does bother me a little and was wondering if others see the same thing ... on fast moving action sequences or special effects on things like football games, it seems the tv has a little trouble keeping up and pixelates slightly or looks like blurring or little boxes. Anyone else see this? It only happens on HD. I've checked my signal strength and its very good.

I've had this TV for over a year and really enjoy it (50a20). One thing does bother me a little and was wondering if others see the same thing ... on fast moving action sequences or special effects on things like football games, it seems the tv has a little trouble keeping up and pixelates slightly or looks like blurring or little boxes. Anyone else see this? It only happens on HD. I've checked my signal strength and its very good.


i have noticed that the signal in 720p corrects that problem for me. 1080I it seems does not do as good as job on fast moving programs.

also when playing dvd's putting the dvd playerin progressive scan also works better.

I would be remiss if I did not give Sony an attaboy!! My fourth thermal fuse quit working about 3 or 4 months out of warranty right before the end of year bowl games. I called on Monday and fussed about the fact that they had not done a recall on the thermal fuse. They fixed my TV on Friday under warranty. Finally, good service from Sony. They still should have a recall on this faulty part. Thanks Sony, WolfpackRon.

Thanks Fico! Should I've eliminated the 1080i signal output with the max at 720p. Looks better at first glance but I'll report back after football this weekend with an update. Should I also eliminate all the 480 options on the SD programming and let the SA 8300HD upconvert, or does that not really matter?

Thanks Fico! Should I've eliminated the 1080i signal output with the max at 720p. Looks better at first glance but I'll report back after football this weekend with an update. Should I also eliminate all the 480 options on the SD programming and let the SA 8300HD upconvert, or does that not really matter?

i only use the 720p and 1080i settings. there are times when 1080i looks alot better than 720p. on my direct tv satalite i am able to disable the 480i and p

good luck

This model is currently offered at Sams. I assume that they typically are behind the technology curve with their products, but am considering this unit because I want to assume it is a sound product for its time ( im guessing about a year and a half old). I have a question for the owners, if you are happy with the unit still, what if anything do you feel newer products offer that you wish you had now. Or, in my case, Im wondering if I will be imediately wanting something else or if this TV will seem old too soon for me? I believe that in real life use, 720p is as good as it gets and is not yet a compromise compared to the 1080p now being advertised.

bajabill - its good value, particularly for when it came out. However, sports do blur on 1080i, and to my eye I find you give up sharpness at 720p, but lose the blur that occurs with fast moving objects/effects. I'd presume with 1080p once broadcasters are providing content, you would get the best of both worlds - sharp picture, no blur.

Baja, try to avoid a set with a manufacturing date of August - October 2005. Thermal fuse problem well documented in this thread. Other than that, I've been happier than a pig in **** with my set. 8,000 hours and counting, still on my original lamp. By the way, anybody's lamp burn out yet? Where and how much for a replacement?

what about burn in concerns with the LCDs, I still think 4x3 source will be the most of my viewing, with the bars on the side - I hate all stretching schemes.

what about burn in concerns with the LCDs, I still think 4x3 source will be the most of my viewing, with the bars on the side - I hate all stretching schemes.

no burn in here. burn in happens mostly on flat panel LCD (like a laptop LCD)

Baja:

My biggest issue is I really wish that I had two HDMI inputs. Having said that, I still got a great deal on the set and the picture looks great.

mrega

what are you connecting that requires HDMI

I currently have nothing that uses that, I wonder how long it will be before it becomes an issue though.


Has anyone here looke at the Mitsubishi RP LCDs when deciding on their Sony purchase. I am. One concern I have is that Sony seems to specialize in PR LCD, Mits seems to be going with DLP. Were the Mits LCD units inherently less competitive than their DLPs.

I use HDMI from my cable box to my set. I would like to also use HDMI from an upconversion DVD player to my set. This is just a hang up I have. I currently have a standard progressive DVD player and it looks great, so I don't actaully even know that an upconverting DVD player would be any better to my eye. But, becuase I don't have one, I want one.

I realize there are other ways I could accomplish adding the DVD player, but I don't want a switch, and I like the picture from the cable box better with HDMI than using component cables.

I highly recommend the set. I have no regrets.

upon reviewing some back panels, I came to the conclusion that HDMI will be good for using the TV as the organizing brain of the system, rather than the stereo reciever, i.e. - coordinate picture source and sound. This is because you need digital audio inputs on your TV, I have not seen that too much. The TV can upconvert audio to the digital audio out, but you need to get the 5.1 signal from the DVD into the TV first. So, without any or all of my source compontents having HDMI, I will still be using source switching on the reciever, and not be able to utilize picture in picture.

Has anyone tried hooking an HTPC to this series of TV? I tried last night and everything's great except for the blurry text (can't do 1:1 pixel mapping). I have the 55inch version.

Does anyone have a fix for this?

TIA

I too am trying to hook up my PC to my A20 from the HDMI to DVI on my CPU. It works but the picture is not perfect. It seems the resolution needs to be adjusted on the computer to match the native resolution of the TV. There is a program called Powerstrip that allows you to do this, but it is taking a lot of time to tweak it correctly.

Nice

This model is currently offered at Sams. I assume that they typically are behind the technology curve with their products, but am considering this unit because I want to assume it is a sound product for its time ( im guessing about a year and a half old). I have a question for the owners, if you are happy with the unit still, what if anything do you feel newer products offer that you wish you had now. Or, in my case, Im wondering if I will be imediately wanting something else or if this TV will seem old too soon for me? I believe that in real life use, 720p is as good as it gets and is not yet a compromise compared to the 1080p now being advertised.

I bought my A60 at Sams last March with the stand and have not looked back. I have had no problems what so ever. At about eight hours a day viewing I have racked up about 3,000 hours and it is still clear and bright. I also wish the set had multi HDMI ports. My carrier is Dishnet and I have the HD package and the locals as well in HD. On the VIP receiver I use the 720p option for HD and partial zoom for the SD viewing. I looked long and hard at TV's and the A60 to my eyes at 12' viewing distance works for me. I'm sure there are other viewers that claim Mits, Panny, Sammy, etc etc are better and that's fine, but the real test is your own eye balls. I figure having this set and watching HD now instead of later will put me in a good position until the set makers mature their technology. After having the A60 in the living room for almost a year I'm thinking down the road if and when the situation presents itself, I'll get a bigger screen. I want to see how the broadcasters handle that FCC mandate coming up in what is it 2008 or 2009? Just for grins I had a Mits 40" tube TV until I got the Sony.

Been awhile since i checked this thread and i was curious if the Thermal Coupler Fuse problem was only on the 55A20's or if it affected the 60A20's as well. I ask cause i have a 60A20 manufactured in August of 05 and was curious if this was something i should be expecting.

Been awhile since i checked this thread and i was curious if the Thermal Coupler Fuse problem was only on the 55A20's or if it affected the 60A20's as well. I ask cause i have a 60A20 manufactured in August of 05 and was curious if this was something i should be expecting.

how long have you had the tv, most people with this problem experenced it with in the 1st 3 months

how long have you had the tv, most people with this problem experenced it with in the 1st 3 months

Bought it middle of Sept i believe. If it goes it goes, i was mostly just curious if this was a problem with just the 55 or whether it affected both sizes.

Bought it middle of Sept i believe. If it goes it goes, i was mostly just curious if this was a problem with just the 55 or whether it affected both sizes.

i believe both sizes. i would not be to concern if it hasnt gone out yet.

The dreaded 6 flashing reds are back. This is the second time this has happened. Anybody else suffer a second thermal fuse breakdown, and did Sony fix it or did you have to pay? My first happened in Nov. 2005, so my set is out of warranty.

Set repaired again - thermal fuse had blown again. Now I get to go toe - to -toe with Sony over the bill.

i can get 1368x768 now but it looks interlaced i.e. flicker. what settings should i use to get it to stop flickering? i don't know how to use those advanced timing settings. should i drop the frame rate in half some how and lower the refresh rate too? any one know what i should change?

Any of you guys using the D* HR20-700? How is it? What settings are your faves?

I'm done with this set. I had the thermal fuse replaced 4 times. Thank god, I bought the extended warranty and Best Buy exchanged it under their no lemon policy. I am now the happy owner of 60" Sony KDSR60XBR2 at no extra cost. It is a lot nicer than the A20.

Are there any reports of the thermofuse problem happening on these TVs that don't have a Aug - Oct build date? Seems like this is a problem that keeps reoccurring with people who've already replaced it once.

Also, I read through this whole thread and never saw a post about lamp failure. Has anyone had their lamp fail yet? If so, about how many hours did you get?

I've had my 60 in A20 for about 4 months now (Dec 05 build date)...no problems so far. My last HDTV was a lemon, crossing my fingers that this one stays trouble-free.

I have 7400 hrs. on my lamp. The lamp has dimmed considerably over the last 1000 hrs.

I got rid of my kdf-e42a10 and now have the kdf-e55a20. How come there are no user settings on this website for this paticular model? I dont need service menu tweaks just some settings that will work well for sd cable and hd dvd. Can I use the settings from the a10 series board? I used them on my a10 and my picture was phenomenal on sd cable and dvd. Thanks.

I believe you can use the same settings...the 55A20 does not have the iris like the A10

Just received the red blinking light over the weekend on my e55a20. Mine was made in August 2005. I've had the set since August 2006. Best Buy repair will be here tomorrow. Hopefully he brings the thermal fuse...

I am trying to enter the menu to check the lamp hours on my KDF-E55A20 Sony TV. I must not be holding my mouth right. I hit the "Display" key, then the number "5" key on the remote, then the volume + key, then the green "Power" button on the top of the remote. Can someone help me please. I am missing the boat somehow. Thanks in advance. WolfpackRon.

according to previous posts, the 6 blinking red lights is the problem with the thermo coupler fuse.
191002393
partstore

Are there any stores that will ship to Canada?
Since this is a bad piece, will fixing it solve this problem for good? Or will it need fixing every now and then.

For those of you who have pets or a lot of dust in your houses, you may try what I did. Go to the hardware store and by some thin furnace filter material and use it cover the air vents on the bottom back side of your set. This will help keep the inside of the TV free from dog hair and dust that could clog your fan and render it inoperational, causing the thermal fuse to blow. This was most likely the cause of my second thermal fuse failure. the filter can be taped on, and is largely unnoticable from the front of the set. You'll be amazed at how much crap is floating around your house. This recommendation came from the Tech who serviced my set both times the thermal fuse blew.

do you mean cover all the air vents? there are air vents plus the area where the fan is, I'm assuming dont cover the fan because it'll cause heat to build up right?

I used a very thin material and covered ALL the air vents in back and the small ones on the sides. I've had no problems with the fan at all. Just remember to chage the filter material before it gets too clogged up. This has kept the inside of my set, and more importantly my fan virtually dust free. I found the filter material at Home Depot for about $15, and there is enough materal to do the set at least twice. This is a lot cheaper then the service call on a blown thermal fuse if you're out of warranty. The thermal fuse is a $5 part, but the labor is over $200. It's important to keep the fan from clogging up with pet hair and dust. Apparently it doesn't take much to clog it up. Hope this helps.

thanks for the great advice, I looked at the back of the fan, there is so much dust back there. I'm going to stick some thin furnace filter back there after I get the fuse fixed.

While the tech has the back of your set open, take the oppurtunity tovacuum the set clean. Hope this helps.

I got rid of my kdf-e42a10 and now have the kdf-e55a20. How come there are no user settings on this website for this paticular model? I dont need service menu tweaks just some settings that will work well for sd cable and hd dvd. Can I use the settings from the a10 series board? I used them on my a10 and my picture was phenomenal on sd cable and dvd. Thanks.
I have been using many of the tweaks from the A10 threads, the service menu is close but exact. most of the settings you can find though.

I have experienced the six blinking red lights and had to replace the thermal fuse on my KDF-E55A20 Sony TV. A friend says his Sony TV has five blinking red lights and the picture goes away, but comes back. This is second hand info and I will check it out tomorrow. Has anyone experienced five blinking lights and what does it mean. Thanks in advance! WolfpackRon.

I just talked with SonyStyle support about five blinking lights on the KDF-E55A20 Sony TV. He mentioned a problem with the lamp driver. Maybe on a board. Anyone familiar with this problem? Sounds like a circuit board problem possibly. WolfpackRon.

when I had my fixed the repair men replaced the entire piece, not just a fuse. Im not sure what its called but I hope it wont happen again.

Has anyone calibrated their set using the standard option instead of the custom?
I set the exact same settings for brightness, contrast, etc... under standard, vivid, and custom but the resulting picture quality is different for all 3. In custom the pic looks more blurry and washed out, vivid looks overblown in spite of toning down the settings to the same as the others.

I just talked with SonyStyle support about five blinking lights on the KDF-E55A20 Sony TV. He mentioned a problem with the lamp driver. Maybe on a board. Anyone familiar with this problem? Sounds like a circuit board problem possibly. WolfpackRon.

Funny you mention the five blinking lights deal, cause that's what my 14 month old 60A20 has started doing. I've got it under an extended warranty and the service tech is supposed to come out at the end of NEXT WEEK!


Aggggh. I just got a PS3 and now this!!! The problem is intermittent, but has been becoming more frequent lately.

I haven't been able to find anything out on it so far, which is why I came here..... Hoping someone has heard of this problem and it's solution before.


Jeff.

Just a follow-up... I was able to confirm on agoraquest.com in THIS THREAD (http://www.agoraquest.com/viewtopic.php?topic=28579&forum=34) that the 5 blinking lights was indeed a problem with the lamp driver and since my set is still under extended warranty, I'm gonna have the tech replace the lamp driver AND my thermal fuse (just to save a trip! ) in one shot. I'll let you all know how it works out...


J.

My picture has been going off for a minute or so and returning for the last 2 weeks (about twice a night), but I have not seen the dreaded blinking red lights. Anybody else experiencing this?

When your picture goes off, do you try to power off the set? That's what starts the 5 red lights to start blinking.

Blah...I hope this new 5 blinking lights issue isn't too widespread. I have about 10 mos on my 60 inch...no problems so far. Does Sony provide an extended warranty if you contact them before your year is up? Got my set at Costco, so I don't think they have optional plans I can buy now (and I already returned one lemon TV to them after using it a year, not about to do that again even if they let me).

My picture has been going off for a minute or so and returning for the last 2 weeks (about twice a night), but I have not seen the dreaded blinking red lights. Anybody else experiencing this?
Not sure on the A20's but others with XBR1's that have been experiencing this problem found that their lamps were beginning to go out. Do you know how many hours you have on your lamp?

I hope you are right about that. I have over 8000 hours, probabily closer to 9000 hrs. My picture is about half as bright as new. By the way my power board was replaced along with the thermal fuse, the first time the thermal fuse blew. According to my tech, he replaced the power board per a service bulletin Sony sent to authorized repair shops. Anybody got a line on the best price for a replacement lamp?

A20 Lamp time..

Screen Display Method
To access service mode, press the buttons on the Remote Commander sequentially, in rapid succession, as shown below:
1. Press DISPLAY Channel 5 Volume + POWER
2. Press JUMP until the PANEL service menu displays.
3. To display the Lamp time, press 2 until the OPTION_E category displays.
4. The LampTM is the fi rst item in the OPTION_E category.
(If the LampTM item is not displayed, press 1 until the LampTM item displays.)

Is there a trick to making this work? I've tried about 15 times on my 55A20 and all I accomplish is turning off the TV every time I hit power button to end the sequence.

Is there a trick to making this work? I've tried about 15 times on my 55A20 and all I accomplish is turning off the TV every time I hit power button to end the sequence.
You need to start the sequence with the tv off.
Mel

I hope you are right about that. I have over 8000 hours, probabily closer to 9000 hrs. My picture is about half as bright as new. By the way my power board was replaced along with the thermal fuse, the first time the thermal fuse blew. According to my tech, he replaced the power board per a service bulletin Sony sent to authorized repair shops. Anybody got a line on the best price for a replacement lamp?
Being up there with that many hours on your set would be a strong indication its the bulb. I know for the XBR1's, bulb life is rated at 8k hours. Not really sure on the A20, but I would not be surprised if it was the same.

Do a search of the forum. If I remember correctly there were a few thread somewhat recently asking about where to get good deals on lamps. I even recall reading somewhere (not sure where), someone suggesting replacing the bulb only, not the housing and saving even more $$.

Being up there with that many hours on your set would be a strong indication its the bulb. I know for the XBR1's, bulb life is rated at 8k hours. Not really sure on the A20, but I would not be surprised if it was the same.

Do a search of the forum. If I remember correctly there were a few thread somewhat recently asking about where to get good deals on lamps. I even recall reading somewhere (not sure where), someone suggesting replacing the bulb only, not the housing and saving even more $$.

Checked my lamp time, I'm at 9335 hrs. and counting.

You need to start the sequence with the tv off.
Mel

Thanks, was able to get it the first time with that piece of knowledge :D

My lamp time is at 3940 hours. Bought the set brand new in January '06.

My picture has been going off for a minute or so and returning for the last 2 weeks (about twice a night), but I have not seen the dreaded blinking red lights. Anybody else experiencing this?

Fixed my problem today by replacing the lamp. Funny how you forget what the picture was like until you replace the lamp. Thanks gvg45 for the tip on replacing just the lamp and not the whole assembly. Saved about $40 buying just the lamp and trading it out for the old one in the cage. Very easy to do, and it only took about another 10 minutes to accomplish. Talked to Sony service about my problem (lamp turning off for 30 - 40 seconds and then turning back on for about a minute, and then turning off... No blinking red lights , or other indication on the front panel) and they wanted to schedule a service call. I ignored this advice and went withmy gut feeling about lamp failure, and saved myself a $250 service call. Picture has returned to like new condition, all for the cost of a new lamp.

Fixed my problem today by replacing the lamp. Funny how you forget what the picture was like until you replace the lamp. Thanks gvg45 for the tip on replacing just the lamp and not the whole assembly. Saved about $40 buying just the lamp and trading it out for the old one in the cage. Very easy to do, and it only took about another 10 minutes to accomplish. Talked to Sony service about my problem (lamp turning off for 30 - 40 seconds and then turning back on for about a minute, and then turning off... No blinking red lights , or other indication on the front panel) and they wanted to schedule a service call. I ignored this advice and went withmy gut feeling about lamp failure, and saved myself a $250 service call. Picture has returned to like new condition, all for the cost of a new lamp.
Glad to hear things worked out for you. :)

How are the PS3's with this set? None of that scaler stuff or audio sync issues? I am probably getting one soon to get into BD and some games for the holidays. I know the set won't do 1080p but with my 360 I cannot tell any difference with games or HDDVD on 720p or 1080i, I keep it locked on 720p as well as my D* receiver.

BTW I have had this set for a year with at least 6 hours of use a day, and have had no issues at all. If the bulb is aging I cannot tell and am glad to be able to get a new one if need be.

How are the PS3's with this set? None of that scaler stuff or audio sync issues? I am probably getting one soon to get into BD and some games for the holidays. I know the set won't do 1080p but with my 360 I cannot tell any difference with games or HDDVD on 720p or 1080i, I keep it locked on 720p as well as my D* receiver.

BTW I have had this set for a year with at least 6 hours of use a day, and have had no issues at all. If the bulb is aging I cannot tell and am glad to be able to get a new one if need be.

My PS3 works great with the set. I use component cables and the tv accepts that as an 1080i signal from the PS3 and downconverts to 720p. Same thing for my Xbox 360. I didn't see any need to connect the PS3 via HDMI because our sets can't handle a 1080p connection.

As for the five blinking lights being from a bad lamp driver. My friend had his TV fixed with this sympton and they just replaced the lamp to repair it. The lamp driver is fairly expensive he was told. Just for your info, WolfpackRon.

hdmi is better than component cables, about 20% increase in resolution, sharpness, etc... just my opinion though.

Has anyone that has an A20 model removed the front panel that surrounds the screen and re-painted it either flat or gloss black. I want to know that if you remove the screws connecting the front panel what else comes off with it. Does the screen itself come off with the panel or is it attached by another method. I want this panel black to match other components and component rack. Black framing also seems to give the set a more appealing and expensive look rather than the cheap looking standard gray. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Has anyone that has an A20 model removed the front panel that surrounds the screen and re-painted it either flat or gloss black. ....
Mine is already flat black. I didn't know they came any other way. I wouldn't want gloss either, if I had the choice. It's too reflective.

Yours has a newer build date than mine. At the end of the manufacture of these models they did come out with the black frame. Earlier models had the light gray frame. Surely there is someone here that has had their's worked on, or have they been so reliable owners have only needed to change lamps. I just need to know what is behind that frame and how the screen itself is attached. Hopefully the frame is just that and the screen is attached to the back framework. I know with the RP/CRT before this one the screen was stacked and attached to the front frame.

red led on power blinks..turned off power with switch on tv..not on remote. The fan began at a high rate of speed..like on overdrive for about a minute and then went down to normal rpm and tv came on just fine. Does this mean the bulb is going out or just that I need to vacuum the vents?

Thanks for any help.

R.

I just got the 6 flashing red lights. SUCKS! New HD from D* and Halo3 this week, while I had to work. This weekend was going to be awesome:(.

It looks to be a "thermal fuse" issue. My set is under warranty, so I either wait for them to schedule a visit or do it myself.

At this site are many who have done it themselves:
http://www.agoraquest.com/viewtopic.php?topic=24322&forum=34&start=0&select_page_number=1

It's only a five dollar part with an apparently easy fix.

I hope someone here can help!

I have a KDF-E55A20 purchased in the U.S., but now I live in Germany where PAL is the only video format from satellite receivers. I purchased a PAL to NTSC converter and get good color and picture, but it rapidly scrolls down the screen.

The set is powered through a power step down transformer (220 50Hz down to 110 50Hz). I can watch DVD and VHS with no problems.

The PAL to NTSC coverter states that if the picture scrolls, then adjust the TV vertical frequency settings. I have searched the Wega Gate menu options and can't find any such settings. Is there a way through the Service Menu? Please be specific (step by step) in service menu options.

Seems I remember someone posting a FORF setting???

Thanks,

Wondering if anyone knows anything about this before I shell out money to get it fixed.

I have the 55", and it was working great. My wife went to turn it off, and the remote stopped working. So, I played around with it and found that the remote would only work if I were 6-12 inches infront of the sensor on the TV.

So I called Sony, they said I needed a new remote - so I went and bought one.

SAME problem.

I called them again, they now think it may be the sensor on the TV itself.
The remote works perfectly - when it's a few inches away from the sensor....

They had me set up a service call ($85.00) to have someone come and look at it. That will be on Monday morning.

Anyone heard of this before? Is this something I can easily fix? Anyone know how much this is going to cost me?

Sony said they're going to see "how much" of it they will cover, but my warranty was only 1 year, so why the heck would they willingly want to help me pay for the repair?

Help!
- Mike

For those of you who have pets or a lot of dust in your houses, you may try what I did. Go to the hardware store and by some thin furnace filter material and use it cover the air vents on the bottom back side of your set. This will help keep the inside of the TV free from dog hair and dust that could clog your fan and render it inoperational, causing the thermal fuse to blow. This was most likely the cause of my second thermal fuse failure. the filter can be taped on, and is largely unnoticable from the front of the set. You'll be amazed at how much crap is floating around your house. This recommendation came from the Tech who serviced my set both times the thermal fuse blew.

I just wanted to report that today I replaced the filter screen I've been using, I opened up the set to see how well this working, and I 've got to tell you that this has kept the inside of my set pretty much dust free. If you haven't done this yet, do it tomorrow. This really works. The filter I was using was yellow and grey from cigarette smoke and dust, but the inside of my set was spotless. This will prolong the life of your set.

Anyone care to post their PS3 HDMI or component settings? Just got a PS3 and was curious of the general consensus.

I use the Vivid setting for my HDMI input.

Picture: 60
Brightness: 70
Color: 57
Hue: 0
Color Temp.: Neutral
Sharpness: 0
NR: Off

I use the Vivid setting for my HDMI input.

Picture: 60
Brightness: 70
Color: 57
Hue: 0
Color Temp.: Neutral
Sharpness: 0
NR: Off

Cool thanks. What about the PS3 settings on the other side?

hey, i've had my 60A20 for a long time now..but I was wondering is there any way for the tv to display what resolution its outputting the picture at (like in the info banner).

thxs

I have a KDF-E55A20 I purchased in August of 2005. When I turned it on this morning I get audio but only a full green screen for the video.

I have tried playing dvds and my DTV and get the same green screen with audio on both.

I'm using HDMI cable from DTV to the TV.

Thanks in advance for any help.

I have a KDF-E55A20 I purchased in August of 2005. When I turned it on this morning I get audio but only a full green screen for the video.

I have tried playing dvds and my DTV and get the same green screen with audio on both.

I'm using HDMI cable from DTV to the TV.

Thanks in advance for any help.


Well, it looks like the old "unplug the TV to reset it" trick worked. Now I really feel stupid, lol.

Well if that' anything like the issue with the A10's, that's a firmware issue and Sony should do a free upgrade for you if you hurry, you may have until sometime in March or May to get an appointment before they'll do that free of charge. It usually happens after a thousand hours I believe, and will only happen again after another thousand. Again, not sure if it's the same type of issue but, give Sony a call. Get it fixed.

I tried to hookup up my new PS3 using HDMI yesterday. I was using component, but read that the PS3 will upconvert standard dvds but only on the HDMI output. I bought a v1.3a certified cable, but do not get anything on the screen. I have another Sony Wega tube in the bedroom, and the PS3 outputs to it just fine.
I was told by someone else with an A20 that some newer HDMI v1.3 devices won't work with this set and it may be solved with a firmware upgrade to the set.
Obviously from previous posts, others are using PS3 with HDMI, wondering what model PS3 they have. Maybe the new 40GB version uses a different HDMI standard?
Does anyone have information on firmware versions for this set, how to obtain them, and how to install them?

So, after scouring the web and talking to Sony tech support, both on the PS3 side and the Wega side...I bought yet a third HDMI cable that was supposedly "guaranteed" to work. This one is made by Sony specifically for the ps3. It's labeled "high speed hdmi 1.3a / category 2 for playstation 3". No luck. I then returned the 40gb PS3 and bought a 60gb version from someone on craigslist. I assumed this was the version everyone else was using without problems. Still no luck. I also spoke to a Sony authorized service tech in my area about a possible service call, and he said as far as he knows there are no Wega firmware upgrades to address HDMI issues. I them went and bought an HDMI dvd player to test the connection with another device. When I power on the player, I get the menu screen, and the dvd starts to play showing the usual previews and warnings, but when it gets to the root menu, it says something similar to "non HDCP compliant set" and then the picture turns to snow. What gives? I thought all Sony HDMI enabled sets were HDCP compliant? This was originally a 3K set and less than 2 years old. I can't use any HDMI devices with it??? Any ideas anyone?

I obtained a service manual for this set. It gives detailed information on the circuit design and parts lists, but only a brief description of the service menu about how to get into it and how to navigate it. There are three HDMI settings in the service menu. Could anyone tell me what they should be set to, and also does anyone know if there is a separate manual with detailed info on the service menu, if so what it's called?

I also searched the web about what HDMI version our Sony A20 has...no luck. I bought mine March of 06'. I have a Dishnet VIP211 Sat receiver that took a few minutes to "handshake" via HDMI and I also have a Canon HV20 hidef video camera that outputs via HDMI and that works fine. Keep us posted as I'm still interested as to what version is on this set.

still no luck using PS3 HDMI on the A20

Strange.

I have an XA2 HD DVD player, PS3, Sony HDMI receiver, and never had any issues whatsoever.

Little late in the game, but I just bought the KDFE55A20 from a friend for $500. I'm not sure of the build date, but I don't think it ever had the thermo-couple/fuse issue. I checked the lamp hours and it was right around 3800hrs.

I just had Verizon Fios installed the other day, so this is really my first experience with HDTV. Gotta admit that HD is pretty freakin' sweet. SD on the other hand is fairly poor with a muddy picture. I'll have to play around with the settings a bit more to hopefully improve the SD quality.

Enjoy your set. Good luck trying to improve the SD quality, I have D* and the SD picture quality changes with every station. I hope your set wasn't built during the "thermo coupler months of death" period. Look back a few pages for the dates of manufacture that were affected.

my thermal coupler just went, I have the 6 blinking lights.
I already ordered the part, can someone hook me up with the directions for installing it? thanks.

for the guys who are having trouble with hdmi...

I have the same problem it was strangely solved when I disabled HDMI sound output. My ps3 is now connected via HDMI but the sound output is via component cables to my receiver (surround sound).

Might work for you.

I've recently upgraded from my KDF-E55A20 to a 58" Pany plasma (awesome!). Does anyone have any idea how much I should ask for my Sony? It's about 2 1/2 years old, and I just recently (this year) replaced the lamp and the OEM remote. I see refurbs are going for $1K. Would $5-600 be in the ballpark? Too high/low? Thanks.

Enjoy your set. Good luck trying to improve the SD quality, I have D* and the SD picture quality changes with every station. I hope your set wasn't built during the "thermo coupler months of death" period. Look back a few pages for the dates of manufacture that were affected.

Paul,

Please, what was the period of build dates that the poor thermo couplers were manufactured?

Jon

Had to go back and look it up, but I believe the dates were August - October 2005. Sony changed vendors on the thermo coupler fuse,,and realized the problem, and supposedly went back to the original supplier. That's what was told to me, by my service tech. Hope this helps.

___________________
What if the "Hokie Pokie" really is " what it's all about" ?

Mine is June 05. So far so good.
Thanks Paul

If it hasn't blown yet, it probably won't. Just remember to keep the set dust free, it's not hard to choke the fan up with dust and pet hair, which could cause the thermocoupler fuse to blow. I taped furnace filter material around the air vents in back, and I change it every 3 months. (Another tip from my service tech.) It's kept my set nice and clean, and its not even noticeable if your set is up against a wall.

If it hasn't blown yet, it probably won't. Just remember to keep the set dust free, it's not hard to choke the fan up with dust and pet hair, which could cause the thermocoupler fuse to blow. I taped furnace filter material around the air vents in back, and I change it every 3 months. (Another tip from my service tech.) It's kept my set nice and clean, and its not even noticeable if your set is up against a wall.

Paul,

Very kewl tip, doing today after work.
Thanks again,

Jon

You can buy the material at Home Depot, Lowes, etc... It costs maybe $18, and Iv'e gotten enough material to cover the vents 4 times. Cheap and effective, especially if you smoke and have a long haired dog.

Posted this in another thread but it also applies to KDFE55A20, KDFE60A2
I saw some posts and threads on 6 blinking lights. If you do have this issue, it can be resolved without having to get a service repair technician.

You need to get the service bulletin and the Television package which shows step by step how to fix the Thermal fuse. Agoraquest is offering these packages via their website at:

http://www.agoraquest.com/viewtopic.php?topic=29663&forum=34

For less than $20 and 1 to 2 hours of your time it will run like new.

There are other Television packages like

KDF55WF655 6 blinks/KDF42WE655, KDF50WE655, KDF55WF655, KDF55XS955, KDF60WF655, KDF60XS955

http://www.agoraquest.com/viewtopic.php?topic=31806&forum=70&keyword2=electronics

FYI I did the above fix and it was not that hard. I bought my e60a20 9/05 and it lasted about 2 years before the red lights. I was all set to do the fix EXCEPT getting that long long phillips screwdriver, you absolutely need it.

Sony repair shop wanted me to pay $300 AND BRING THE SET TO THEM. lol I'll get right on that.

I have the KDF-E60A20, does anyone know what bit processor it has?.....8,10 12?

Sold my 55A20 to a coworker of the wife this weekend. The set worked flawlessly when I last had it on. I get a call today from the guy saying that when he turned it on, the screen flashed and then all he got was the 6 flashing red lights.

Thanks to the above posters who referenced the site with the "fix" instructions. I joined today and requested the information. I told the guy that it sounds like a thermal fuse, and that I'm getting the info to fix it for him.

BTW, anyone know where to buy the fuse? Does it have to be ordered? Are there any special tools needed to perform this fix?

Thanks for the help.

Edit: Found the fuse (item #191002393) on the following site for <$8 shipped. (http://servicesales.sel.sony.com/ecom/accessories/web/index.jsp)

Hey guys new to the site. I was just curious my parents A20 series just got the six red lights, and I check and the manufactured date was Aug. 2005, so does Sony have to pay to fix the thermo coupler if that is what the problem is.

Thanks for the help

I would argue very hard with them, since it was a well known problem. They will probably tell you that you are out of warranty, but I would ask for the manager, and another manager, etc... until you find somebody willing to pick up the tab, which will probably be in the $250 - $300 range. (Which is ridiculous for a 30 minute service call.) By the way it's an inexpensive part, I believe under $5.

Hey all, so after lurking the forum for nearly 5 years I just picked up a E60A20 and I was wondering is there anyway to skip the built in Tuner when scrolling through Inputs. I know you can bring up the menu by hitting Wega Gate and disable analog/HDMI inputs but I want to disable the RF Tuner so all I have is 3 devices (2 component and 1 HDMI).

I have the E60A20 in a well lit room with a few windows.

i tried calibrating it for the first time today (went with inexpensive THX Optimizer) and though it does look better, its just too gloomy and darkish during the day time. At night it looks slightly better. Not even sure if it looks better now than it did with vivid option.

here are my settings with only the tv turned on.

Custom mode
Picture = 84
Brightness = 52
Color = 62
Hue = G4
Color Temp. = Warm
Sharpness = 67

DRC Mode = High Density
DRC Palette = Custom

Advance Video Settings
Black Corrector = Off
Gamma = High
Clear White = On
Color Corrector = Low

Thats everything i can find as far as settings.

Any suggestions on changes to my settings?

Correct calibrations always seem that way at first. Give it a few days for your eyes to adjust to your changes. As for daytime viewing, use vivid if the picture looks washed out, due to the additional sunlight. By the way, how many hours on your lamp? After a couple thousand, it will have significantly dimmed, necessitating the vivid setting.

I calibrated mine with DVE HD DVD, mostly to view HD content (or SD via HDMI). You can try it out to see if it fits your environment.

Standard Settings: (I find that using Custom setting tones down the sharpness and details dramatically).

Picture: 90 (you can lower to 80 if you find it too bright)
Brightness: 55
Color: 54
Tint: R4
Color Temp: Neutral
Sharpness: Min (0)

Nice to see fellow A20 owners are still around. I went into the service menu and found LAMPTM @ 7321 and LAMPCT@ 2589. I bought this set 03/04/06 and have never had a problem. I appreciate you owners posting your settings and will try them out today. The only issue I have is I bought a Pioneer BD51 player along with a Pioneer VSX01 receiver and it passes the signal to the set as 1080i. It would have been better at 720p at least for my eyes it would. Is there a time frame as to when to change the lamp other than it will go dim?

paulwozniak, it does have a couple thousand hours on it for sure.

the main even thanks i will try those settings.

do you guys have any opinion on my advance video settings?

i like jake ironshirts question, i think its not so much time frame but how many hours on the lamp.

i checked ebay and a new lamp would be around $150. if i were to decide (after trying settings suggested above) to change the lamp, is it really that difficult?
per manual instructions it doesnt seem to be but being a novice im a little bit weary about doing it myself.

im contemplating buying the lamp and getting a pro to change it for me but not sure how much that would cost on top of the $150 for the lamp.

paulwozniak, it does have a couple thousand hours on it for sure.

the main even thanks i will try those settings.

do you guys have any opinion on my advance video settings?

i like jake ironshirts question, i think its not so much time frame but how many hours on the lamp.

i checked ebay and a new lamp would be around $150. if i were to decide (after trying settings suggested above) to change the lamp, is it really that difficult?
per manual instructions it doesnt seem to be but being a novice im a little bit weary about doing it myself.

im contemplating buying the lamp and getting a pro to change it for me but not sure how much that would cost on top of the $150 for the lamp.

Trust me, you can do it yourself, and save the $150 service call. For the price that you quoted for the lamp, I'm assuming it's just the lamp, and not the whole cage assembly. This is the way to go, replacing the lamp into the cage involves just unplugging the lamp and installing the new one. Trust me, this also very simple. If you have the funds, go ahead and buy, and install the new lamp now. Keep the old one for a spare. You will notice a great change in brightness when you install the new lamp, so wait to recalibrate till then. It's amazing how dim your old lamp will seem, when you install the new one. Just remember not to get fingerprints on the lamps, apparently this shortens lamp life. cotton gloves will help. Also give the old lamp plenty of time to cool down before removing, those suckers get hot. You can do this!

Additional edit: Definetly dial back the sharpness. Mine is set at 25. Too much causes ringing and false contouring around things on the screen. It's most noticeable on small items on the picture.

the price i quoted includes a used housing with new lamp.

when you say dial the sharpness back to 25, do you mean -25? i think mine is set at something like +60ish.

another question. i finally got a universal remote, the radio shack 1500100. ive tried like 5 or 6 codes so far and it wont work with the tv. anyone have a code that works for this tv?

D'oh - my lamp died on me yesterday on my 60" :( of COURSE during the hot TV week.

Luckily I've got the extended warranty thru OneCall for 5 years, so the bulbs are replaced for free...

I've had this set for 3 years (almost to the day) - seems like the bulb went out quick?

Once the set is live again, is there a way to see what the time on the bulb was - and can it be reset?

the price i quoted includes a used housing with new lamp.

when you say dial the sharpness back to 25, do you mean -25? i think mine is set at something like +60ish.

another question. i finally got a universal remote, the radio shack 1500100. ive tried like 5 or 6 codes so far and it wont work with the tv. anyone have a code that works for this tv?

+25. I don't think it will track to negative numbers. Don't have an answer for your RC problems, is it possible you are inputting the codes incorrectly?

D'oh - my lamp died on me yesterday on my 60" :( of COURSE during the hot TV week.

Luckily I've got the extended warranty thru OneCall for 5 years, so the bulbs are replaced for free...

I've had this set for 3 years (almost to the day) - seems like the bulb went out quick?

Once the set is live again, is there a way to see what the time on the bulb was - and can it be reset?

See post #699 (thanks Wallygator) for the lamp time procedure. Lamp time apparantely can not be reset. Just write the hours down on your manual for reference. That's what I did. I had about 9300 hrs. on mine when it finally gave up, but from what I've read, that was quite a bit over the average.

i figured out the remote control problem, the code that worked for this particular television is 11100

i will try sharpness 25 tonight after work

...

...

hey guys i looked at the lamp settings on my 60 inch.

LampTM is 7550, that means it has been on that many hours?

LampCT is 4629, that means how many times it has been turned on?

Would you guys recommend i replace the lamp now? it works fine but i am not sure, i suppose it has dimmed somewhat with that many hours on it?

if you recommend i replace the lamp, is the SONY XL-2200U the correct lamp?

I saw this on ebay, just the lamp for $97.93. any better deals out there for just the lamp?

http://cgi.ebay.com/SONY-XL-2200U-LAMP-BULB-FOR-KDF-E60A20-KDFE60A20_W0QQitemZ370100726567QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item37010 0726567&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A1%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

Yes on the first two questions. Replace the lamp now and keep the old one for a spare. Nothing like having your big screen down for a couple of days while your waiting for the new lamp to be shipped. (Unless you want to spring the extra $ for overnight shipping). You will be shocked how much your lamp has dimmed when you see how bright the new one is. I believe you have the correct lamp model, check on Sony's site to be sure. BTW, some people have commented that OEM lamps are preferrable to after-market brands in terms of lamp life. I bought an after-market lamp and it did dim faster than my original lamp did. I paid about $140 for mine, without the cage. No point in paying for the cage, lamp replacement is only one more step.

Replaced the lamp/cage today on our E60A20, five minute job.
Lamp TM 7687
CT 2744
Even thou it was working and probably could go longer it will be my spare...The new lamp is bright. When viewing your lamp stats press 3, mute, than enter to reset the time. I have it on standard and power reduced.

Replaced the lamp/cage today on our E60A20, five minute job.
Lamp TM 7687
CT 2744
Even thou it was working and probably could go longer it will be my spare...The new lamp is bright. When viewing your lamp stats press 3, mute, than enter to reset the time. I have it on standard and power reduced.

Thanks for that, I was wondering how to do that.

thanks paul youve been a big help.

thats good to know jake, i read this thread and everyone said you cannot reset the time on the lamp.

I just got my new lamp today.

i will be installing it when i have time this weekend. couple of questions.

I assume i will have to recalibrate the tv again. i will be using a basic calibration disk, thx optimizer from the incredibles dvd.

do i recalibrate with all the advance video settings off? gamma etc.

if you guys dont mind can you post your calibration settings including the advanced video settings?

thanks paul youve been a big help.

thats good to know jake, i read this thread and everyone said you cannot reset the time on the lamp.

I just got my new lamp today.

i will be installing it when i have time this weekend. couple of questions.

I assume i will have to recalibrate the tv again. i will be using a basic calibration disk, thx optimizer from the incredibles dvd.

do i recalibrate with all the advance video settings off? gamma etc.

if you guys dont mind can you post your calibration settings including the advanced video settings?

Yes the lamp hours are resettable, I'm not sure how to reset the CT. I did not re-calibrate as I thought my settings that I copied from another owner still looked good.

thanks paul youve been a big help.

thats good to know jake, i read this thread and everyone said you cannot reset the time on the lamp.

I just got my new lamp today.

i will be installing it when i have time this weekend. couple of questions.

I assume i will have to recalibrate the tv again. i will be using a basic calibration disk, thx optimizer from the incredibles dvd.

do i recalibrate with all the advance video settings off? gamma etc.

if you guys dont mind can you post your calibration settings including the advanced video settings?

Always glad to help. As for settings, mine change with dimness of my lamp. I keep everything pretty close to the factory settings, color wise.

wow that was easier than i thought it would be. i recalibrated and i also kept everything pretty close to the factory settings. the only one i am still not sure about is the sharpness. did you keep yours at 25 after installing the new lamp?

wow that was easier than i thought it would be. i recalibrated and i also kept everything pretty close to the factory settings. the only one i am still not sure about is the sharpness. did you keep yours at 25 after installing the new lamp?

Yes, I did. Amazing how much brighter that new lamp is, ain't it? You don't really realize how dim the old had gotten till you replace it.

Wow, that was easy. Just switched bulb for the 1st time since I got this tv in Oct. 05.
-I forgot how bright it was and was surprised how extreme I had to recalibrate...this will rock till I upgrade in the next 18 months! Funny how manual says use a Sony bulb and the original is a Philips, as was my warranty replacement bulb.

I hope to have the same luck with changing out my lamp. Just checked the time on the original and it's at 6,941 hours and it's been in service 3 days shy of 3 years. I just ordered a lamp, sans housing, for $95 on e-bay...

I hope to have the same luck with changing out my lamp. Just checked the time on the original and it's at 6,941 hours and it's been in service 3 days shy of 3 years. I just ordered a lamp, sans housing, for $95 on e-bay...

It will be fine and SO worth it. The rubbery bottom edge of the bulb housing door may wear out after time allowing some light leakage after installation, a sliver of material will block that out. It will look like dust sitting there when you open the door but its just rubber.

I think I just wiped that piece of "rubber" out of my set when i was cleaning my set yesterday.

I think I just wiped that piece of "rubber" out of my set when i was cleaning my set yesterday.

I have a little light bleed from that slot, nothing drastic. I am gonna use a finely trimmed piece of adhesive backed foam unless i find the same kind of rubber/adhesive backed trim at the hardware store. Possibly a piece of thick black paper...easy fix either way.

I have a little light bleed from that slot, nothing drastic. I am gonna use a finely trimmed piece of adhesive backed foam unless i find the same kind of rubber/adhesive backed trim at the hardware store. Possibly a piece of thick black paper...easy fix either way.

I'm not having that problem. Make sure that the "door" fits in easily before securing it with the metal strap.

Looking for a new lamp today. First one lasted 9300 hrs., this one is starting to flicker, 5100 hrs. Next TV is going to be a plasma.Tired of buying lamps.

Looking for a new lamp today. First one lasted 9300 hrs., this one is starting to flicker, 5100 hrs. Next TV is going to be a plasma.Tired of buying lamps.

Best prices I've found for new Sony lamp assembly. Not just a bulb.

http://www.electrified.com/catalog/items/?ItemID=28023&r=PLL&Type=ProjectionTVLamps

Best prices I've found for new Sony lamp assembly. Not just a bulb.

http://www.electrified.com/catalog/items/?ItemID=28023&r=PLL&Type=ProjectionTVLamps

Mucho gracias. I'll have to grab 1 or 2 for storage since in a year or so I'll get a Bravia or Kuro and move this sweet LCDrp down into the gameroom.

I'm looking for just the lamp. No need for the housing. I found one on Ebay for $92, but I'm not sure if it's OEM. I don't believe the last one I bought was OEM, and I'm a little disappointed in it's performance. It dimmed considerably within 2500 hrs. I also so some that came with a 1 yr. warranty. I'm not buying till tomorrow morning, so any other heads up you guys/gals can give me is appreciated.
Thanks for helping so far.

I'm looking for just the lamp. No need for the housing. I found one on Ebay for $92, but I'm not sure if it's OEM. I don't believe the last one I bought was OEM, and I'm a little disappointed in it's performance. It dimmed considerably within 2500 hrs. I also so some that came with a 1 yr. warranty. I'm not buying till tomorrow morning, so any other heads up you guys/gals can give me is appreciated.
Thanks for helping so far.

I just received my lamp a couple of mins ago. I ordered it from this seller: http://cgi.ebay.com/XL-2200U-LAMP-BULB-FOR-SONY-KDF-E60A20-KDFE60A20_W0QQitemZ370119151536QQcmdZViewItemQQptZPH_Pjoject ion_Equipment_Accessories?hash=item370119151536&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A570|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1| 293%3A1|294%3A50

I did some research before ordering it to make sure it was an OEM lamp here (http://www.dlplampguide.com/xl2200.html) and they claim it's an OEM, made by Osram (the other one is made by Phillips apparently).

They also give you a latex glove to handle it with care. Hopefully I'll be able to replace it correctly.

So I successfully installed my new lamp. So much brighter! Had to tone down my picture from 95 to 65, but everything else is still the same.

I noticed one thing though, the built date of my set is February 2006 and my old bulb was a Phillips. I noticed that that lamp had a bluish tint, whereas the new lamp that I just installed is an Osram and has a whitish color.

Does anyone know if it affects the PQ (notably the blacks)? I remember the blacks being more blue with the Phillips and now it's a tad more gray, but maybe it's just because my old lamp was getting dimmer so it produced lower black levels.

I just received my lamp a couple of mins ago. I ordered it from this seller: http://cgi.ebay.com/XL-2200U-LAMP-BULB-FOR-SONY-KDF-E60A20-KDFE60A20_W0QQitemZ370119151536QQcmdZViewItemQQptZPH_Pjoject ion_Equipment_Accessories?hash=item370119151536&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A570|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1| 293%3A1|294%3A50

I did some research before ordering it to make sure it was an OEM lamp here (http://www.dlplampguide.com/xl2200.html) and they claim it's an OEM, made by Osram (the other one is made by Phillips apparently).

They also give you a latex glove to handle it with care. Hopefully I'll be able to replace it correctly.

Thanks for that link.I have to wait till next Friday to order, unexpected bill to pay this week.

I wondered if anyone had experienced this problem with the KDF-E55A20 yet. I replaced the bulb in mine three days ago, and this happened this morning. So far, the television takes about two minutes to turn on, at which point the lined pattern appears. The only thing the television responds to with a visual change is turning off the cable signal going into the television (RGB component input).

Here's a picture.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q258/a_moondragon/tv/PICT0619.jpg

That looks like the pattern you see when you go into the service menu .Check your input connections, and make sure you have selected an input. Before all of that, unplug the set for about 10 minutes, and then replug. That should get you out of the service screen. I hope this helped.
Also check in back of the set, and make sure the cooling fan is running and not clogged with dust.

So I successfully installed my new lamp. So much brighter! Had to tone down my picture from 95 to 65, but everything else is still the same.

I noticed one thing though, the built date of my set is February 2006 and my old bulb was a Phillips. I noticed that that lamp had a bluish tint, whereas the new lamp that I just installed is an Osram and has a whitish color.

Does anyone know if it affects the PQ (notably the blacks)? I remember the blacks being more blue with the Phillips and now it's a tad more gray, but maybe it's just because my old lamp was getting dimmer so it produced lower black levels.


Oh yes, benefits of the the new bulb are super but there is some diffences in blacks at first, seems to have settled down now after 2 to 3 weeks...very hard to dial in the settings in the 1st few days.

I wondered if anyone had experienced this problem with the KDF-E55A20 yet. I replaced the bulb in mine three days ago, and this happened this morning. So far, the television takes about two minutes to turn on, at which point the lined pattern appears. The only thing the television responds to with a visual change is turning off the cable signal going into the television (RGB component input).

Here's a picture.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q258/a_moondragon/tv/PICT0619.jpg


HOLY $$&%$ing $$&T Batman!!!! Never saw that one.

I certainly enjoyed having it pop up.

That looks like the pattern you see when you go into the service menu .Check your input connections, and make sure you have selected an input. Before all of that, unplug the set for about 10 minutes, and then replug. That should get you out of the service screen. I hope this helped.
Also check in back of the set, and make sure the cooling fan is running and not clogged with dust.

Now that I look more closely at it, the back of the television looks like one big dustbunny. Silly parents. They haven't cleaned any of their electronics while I was at college. I'll let you know if this helps. Thanks.

That looks like the pattern you see when you go into the service menu .Check your input connections, and make sure you have selected an input. Before all of that, unplug the set for about 10 minutes, and then replug. That should get you out of the service screen. I hope this helped.
Also check in back of the set, and make sure the cooling fan is running and not clogged with dust.

Well, no dice. After following the Woz's advice, the pattern appears unrelated to the service menu as far as function goes, seeing as how there is no visual response to pressing any button on the television or remote control. That said, I would have no idea how to confirm a selected video setting. Thanks for trying, though, Paul.

While cleaning the dust out, I noticed some brown discoloration around the lamp area, indicating overheating of the lamp. I assume this was from the one that died. I'm thinking there's a possibility that the heat damaged something in the signal processor, or the thing that converts the signal into picture. This seems to be a very mysterious part of the television refered to in various threads as a q-box, a b-board, or a b-box, none of which are mentioned anywhere online but in message boards. It's also possible that the dust buildup was the culprit for the burning.

At any rate, tv = abstract artwork for now.

Checked the lamp time on my KDF-E55A20 this afternoon and it is showing 8452. Think it is time to order a new lamp as the screen doesn't seem to be as bright as it was when it was new. I'll just keep the current one as a spare in case of emergency.

Will report back with my results in the next week or two.

Thanks for all of the great info in this thread!

Has anyone taken apart their set to vac out dust? I have a KDF-E60A20 since March 06'. Is it difficult? When I replaced the lamp it was hell-a dusty.

Checked the lamp time on my KDF-E55A20 this afternoon and it is showing 8452. Think it is time to order a new lamp as the screen doesn't seem to be as bright as it was when it was new. I'll just keep the current one as a spare in case of emergency.

Will report back with my results in the next week or two.

Thanks for all of the great info in this thread!

Where do you check lamp hours? I did get atleast 3 years of very heavy usage from my 1st lamp that I keep as a spare.

Where do you check lamp hours? I did get atleast 3 years of very heavy usage from my 1st lamp that I keep as a spare.

Post #699 in this thread has the instructions. Be sure to have the TV in the off position before entering the sequence of keys to put it into test mode.

Now that I look more closely at it, the back of the television looks like one big dustbunny. Silly parents. They haven't cleaned any of their electronics while I was at college. I'll let you know if this helps. Thanks.

Has anyone taken apart their set to vac out dust? I have a KDF-E60A20 since March 06'. Is it difficult? When I replaced the lamp it was hell-a dusty.

See post #820. Be sure to use the brush attachment, and UNPLUG your set before opening up the back panel. Guys, I'm dead serious about what i wrote in post #820, it really does work! Especially if you smoke or have pets. It's amazing how much dust and hair can get into your set. All of that can shorten the life of your investment. 1/2 hr. of your time and less than $20 out of your wallet.

Well, no dice. After following the Woz's advice, the pattern appears unrelated to the service menu as far as function goes, seeing as how there is no visual response to pressing any button on the television or remote control. That said, I would have no idea how to confirm a selected video setting. Thanks for trying, though, Paul.

While cleaning the dust out, I noticed some brown discoloration around the lamp area, indicating overheating of the lamp. I assume this was from the one that died. I'm thinking there's a possibility that the heat damaged something in the signal processor, or the thing that converts the signal into picture. This seems to be a very mysterious part of the television refered to in various threads as a q-box, a b-board, or a b-box, none of which are mentioned anywhere online but in message boards. It's also possible that the dust buildup was the culprit for the burning.

At any rate, tv = abstract artwork for now.

I'm sorry that didn't help. I was hoping it would, because calling the repair tech isn't cheap.

I just received my lamp a couple of mins ago. I ordered it from this seller: http://cgi.ebay.com/XL-2200U-LAMP-BULB-FOR-SONY-KDF-E60A20-KDFE60A20_W0QQitemZ370119151536QQcmdZViewItemQQptZPH_Pjoject ion_Equipment_Accessories?hash=item370119151536&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A570|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1| 293%3A1|294%3A50

I did some research before ordering it to make sure it was an OEM lamp here (http://www.dlplampguide.com/xl2200.html) and they claim it's an OEM, made by Osram (the other one is made by Phillips apparently).

They also give you a latex glove to handle it with care. Hopefully I'll be able to replace it correctly.

Just ordered mine. Thanks for the heads-up on this company. How long did it take for your's to arrive?

Just ordered mine. Thanks for the heads-up on this company. How long did it take for your's to arrive?

I ordered it on Dec. 27th and it shipped on the 29th (which was quite quick since it was during the holidays period and all). It arrived in Canada on January 2nd, but it got stuck at the customs office for 10 days. Once it got dispatched, I received it the following day.

They'll give you a tracking #, so you'll be able to track it down easily.

I complained about the grayish black earlier, but now after a week or so the blacks are better, similar to what I had before (only a little brighter). I'm running it in reduced mode. So far so good!

Bladerunner 1959 - have you figured out what the problem was yet?

Bladerunner 1959 - have you figured out what the problem was yet?

Paul,
Yes, reinspection of the bulb housing door, then reinstalling....it is definately a slight deterioration in the rubber seal on bottom edge of bulb housing door... I may be able to get that part ordered under my extended warrany. I'll let you know.

Mine is long gone, never bothered to replace it.

I wondered if anyone had experienced this problem with the KDF-E55A20 yet. I replaced the bulb in mine three days ago, and this happened this morning. So far, the television takes about two minutes to turn on, at which point the lined pattern appears. The only thing the television responds to with a visual change is turning off the cable signal going into the television (RGB component input).

Here's a picture.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q258/a_moondragon/tv/PICT0619.jpg

Moon dragon, any progress on this problem? I'm really curious about this one too.

Replaced my lamp today. With the SB game coming this Sunday, I didn't want to take any chances. Plus, I would rather have a used spare on hand. I've also read that the lamps get dimmer over time. How true that is. My TV is bright again:) The set is just 3 years old.

I opted for the OEM Philips bulb instead of the OSRAM. It was worth the $30 extra bucks to me. The company even gave me a great deal on the shipping ($5) which ended up being lightning fast, even over the weekend. I ordered it on Friday (in San Diego) and it arrived Monday in Houston.

I got the Owner's manual in PDF from here: (Glad I did... I almost took the BACK panel off)
http://www.docs.sony.com/release/KDFE55-60A20.pdf

and the company posted a link to a great video to change the bulb in the existing housing here:
http://guides.fixyourdlp.com/sony/XL-2200.php

My only concern is that the original bulb had 2 screens on the top and bottom where the openings are. (These are not sealed bulbs) The replacement, however, does not. The original definitely had dust/debris buildup and very fine dust inside the bulb. I tried to remove the screens to transfer them with no luck. Has anyone else notice this and, in turn, done anything about it?

I've read here that some of you are installing some type of generic filters on the back of the TV but only for folks with pets. Do they help with finer dust?

Thanks for all of the valuable input on this thread guys. It makes owning this wonderful TV even better.

P.S. can anyone quickly point me to the instructions to reset the lamp counter?

Replaced my lamp today. With the SB game coming this Sunday, I didn't want to take any chances. Plus, I would rather have a used spare on hand. I've also read that the lamps get dimmer over time. How true that is. My TV is bright again:) The set is just 3 years old.

I opted for the OEM Philips bulb instead of the OSRAM. It was worth the $30 extra bucks to me. The company even gave me a great deal on the shipping ($5) which ended up being lightning fast, even over the weekend. I ordered it on Friday (in San Diego) and it arrived Monday in Houston.

I got the Owner's manual in PDF from here: (Glad I did... I almost took the BACK panel off)
http://www.docs.sony.com/release/KDFE55-60A20.pdf

and the company posted a link to a great video to change the bulb in the existing housing here:
http://guides.fixyourdlp.com/sony/XL-2200.php

My only concern is that the original bulb had 2 screens on the top and bottom where the openings are. (These are not sealed bulbs) The replacement, however, does not. The original definitely had dust/debris buildup and very fine dust inside the bulb. I tried to remove the screens to transfer them with no luck. Has anyone else notice this and, in turn, done anything about it?

I've read here that some of you are installing some type of generic filters on the back of the TV but only for folks with pets. Do they help with finer dust?

Thanks for all of the valuable input on this thread guys. It makes owning this wonderful TV even better.

P.S. can anyone quickly point me to the instructions to reset the lamp counter?

My warranty replacement bulb was a Phillips, just like the original one. Cage was exactly the same. I dont care about the counter. Dimming starts to show midway thru the 3rd year with my viewing habits. Its nice to have the spares with decent life in them. This bulb was free with warranty that only cost me 100.00 3 years ago but at the 90 to 110 range for bulb purchases...well worth the money to have this Sony back up to new-condition. It will take a few days to 2 weeks I think for the brightness to break in settle down and be nice to the blacks. I almost forgot how much you have to tweak for a new bulb because over time you nudge the settings around to compensate for bulb weakness.

Replaced my lamp today. With the SB game coming this Sunday, I didn't want to take any chances. Plus, I would rather have a used spare on hand. I've also read that the lamps get dimmer over time. How true that is. My TV is bright again:) The set is just 3 years old.

I opted for the OEM Philips bulb instead of the OSRAM. It was worth the $30 extra bucks to me. The company even gave me a great deal on the shipping ($5) which ended up being lightning fast, even over the weekend. I ordered it on Friday (in San Diego) and it arrived Monday in Houston.

I got the Owner's manual in PDF from here: (Glad I did... I almost took the BACK panel off)
http://www.docs.sony.com/release/KDFE55-60A20.pdf

and the company posted a link to a great video to change the bulb in the existing housing here:
http://guides.fixyourdlp.com/sony/XL-2200.php

My only concern is that the original bulb had 2 screens on the top and bottom where the openings are. (These are not sealed bulbs) The replacement, however, does not. The original definitely had dust/debris buildup and very fine dust inside the bulb. I tried to remove the screens to transfer them with no luck. Has anyone else notice this and, in turn, done anything about it?

I've read here that some of you are installing some type of generic filters on the back of the TV but only for folks with pets. Do they help with finer dust?

Thanks for all of the valuable input on this thread guys. It makes owning this wonderful TV even better.

P.S. can anyone quickly point me to the instructions to reset the lamp counter?

I originally posted that.(#820) Yes it helps tremendously. hardly any dust in my set at all. Does not interfere with the set's performance whatsoever.

Got my new bulb installed today. It was delayed a few days due in shipping due to the ice storms. I had 8,596 hours on the original bulb from purchase back in Jan '06. Reset the lamp timer on the set and tweaked the settings a bit.

Thanks for all of the help folks! New OEM Phillips bulb installed for $102 shipped and 5 minutes of my time. Going to put the old bulb in the packaging the new bulb came in and put it up in the closet for an emergency spare.

Very pleased :D

I have an eye-one and would like to calibrate my KDF-E55a20, but I'm not familiar with the service menu for this set. Can someone post details to help me navigate through it.

I've already calibrated my Panny 58PZ800U with awesome results, so I already know how to do it. I just need specific info on the Sony in terms of navigating through the service menu.

Once i'm done, i'll post my results.

Thanks!

oh man i hit a problem after 4 years with my 60 tv. last night the red lights (lamp) started blinking. the red light (power) just stayed red, no blinking. unplugged, plugged back in and i could see the program on the screen, though very very dim..

i decided to wait till morning and installed the original lamp.

now the red lights blink three times, pause, three times, pause etc. on the power. lamp option there is nothing. the fan turns on for a couple of seconds and turns off. no picture whatsoever now.

i thought it might be the thermal fuse but the lights dont blink 5 or 6 times like most people whove had that problem. blinks 3 times pause 3 times etc.

i am thinking about ordering another lamp. not sure i want to do that yet in case something else is the culprit

...

oh man i hit a problem after 4 years with my 60 tv. last night the red lights (lamp) started blinking. the red light (power) just stayed red, no blinking. unplugged, plugged back in and i could see the program on the screen, though very very dim..

i decided to wait till morning and installed the original lamp.

now the red lights blink three times, pause, three times, pause etc. on the power. lamp option there is nothing. the fan turns on for a couple of seconds and turns off. no picture whatsoever now.

i thought it might be the thermal fuse but the lights dont blink 5 or 6 times like most people whove had that problem. blinks 3 times pause 3 times etc.

i am thinking about ordering another lamp. not sure i want to do that yet in case something else is the culprit
I had this happen in my Samsung and it was the ballast board. Did you notice it buzzing first? It was $110.00 on ebay

i didnt notice any buzzing but i found the problem. it was the lamp that went bad, not the thermal fuse.

i went back to the manual and 3 red lights blinking means the cover was not screwed in after the lamp. duh. i left it unscrewed just in case i needed to remove the lamp.

it works now with the original lamp that came with the tv. i ordered a new one though. ill save the new thermal fuse for when it does go bad.

this lamp that went bad after a few months was from ebay. hmmm maybe i just got a bad one.

maybe someone in the future can learn from my bonehead mistake

i didnt notice any buzzing but i found the problem. it was the lamp that went bad, not the thermal fuse.

i went back to the manual and 3 red lights blinking means the cover was not screwed in after the lamp. duh. i left it unscrewed just in case i needed to remove the lamp.

it works now with the original lamp that came with the tv. i ordered a new one though. ill save the new thermal fuse for when it does go bad.

this lamp that went bad after a few months was from ebay. hmmm maybe i just got a bad one.

maybe someone in the future can learn from my bonehead mistake

I did the same thing when I changed out my last lamp.:D

Someone please tell me what the difference is between:


http://www.electrified.com/Catalog/Items/?ItemID=18058&Supplier=SONY&ItemModel=A-1085-447-A%20%20%20%20%20%20XL-2200%20%20%20%20XL2200

and:

http://www.projectorlampsusa.com/catalog/product_info-products_id-804-Replacement%2520Lamp%2520for%2520SONY%2520KDF-E55A20%2520RPTV%2520-%2520XL2200U-osCsid-9fd45a7afd9725d27886a888df9ad121.htm

I prefer the cheaper of course but want to get the right thing. My bulb is pushing 3+ years and I have just started to push my brightness settings to the max to keep it watchable. I still love the set and hope to get another 3 out of it. Thanks in advance.

Mine went out about a day after I needed to turn up the brightness to max. The original bulb is made by phillips, I ordered one off ebay ($100 delivered), it was a phillips and came in a few days. It was only the bulb, but swapping the bulb is pretty easy.

Works great!

Call those places and find out who makes the bulb... I would go with a phillips bulb if possible.

Mine went out about a day after I needed to turn up the brightness to max. The original bulb is made by phillips, I ordered one off ebay ($100 delivered), it was a phillips and came in a few days. It was only the bulb, but swapping the bulb is pretty easy.

Works great!

Call those places and find out who makes the bulb... I would go with a phillips bulb if possible.

Done. Thanks so much.

Bulb replaced yesterday, man is it bright. Based on the posts here it's safe to say don't try to calibrate just yet?

...

so my optical block is failing going faulty after owning my kdf e60a20.

i've looked at the settlement a10/a20 pages and pictures of the blue streak/blue anomalies. to confirm it is the optical block. sony refused to fix it for free. telling me that it's not covered under the enxtended warranty per model.

i really hop rob sticks it to em again.

anywone else here not experiencing this. is there anything to do about it?

anyone else watching the settlement like a hawk, it can be easy accessed via the won SXRD settlement won/webpage by counsel, robert lax also. hmm.


anyways im stuck with a crapping out tv anything i can do to maybe remedy it? clean it? any hope? besides the pending settlement... im no professional but is defin the optical block.

anyways last sony product i ever buy. $almost 3grand paperweight with changing blue steaks/haze patterns blocks, yadda yadda. :mad: :mad:

How do I put kdf-e60a20 in power save mode?

I wondered if anyone had experienced this problem with the KDF-E55A20 yet. I replaced the bulb in mine three days ago, and this happened this morning. So far, the television takes about two minutes to turn on, at which point the lined pattern appears. The only thing the television responds to with a visual change is turning off the cable signal going into the television (RGB component input).

Here's a picture.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q258/a_moondragon/tv/PICT0619.jpg

It's a bad Q board, this just happened to mine almost 4 years after buying it. It's happened to many others as well.

I've seen repair bills from 500-1000 (which means trash the tv) which I'm about to do.

If anyone wants to buy a nice sony stand Sony SU-GW12 let me know. Great condition.

I would like to know how my 12,954 hours compare to others that have the TV. I am wondering just how seriously I need to get about replacing the bulb. It has been perfect while I have noticed some degradation in the brightness and have increased the settings to try an compensate for that but the red LED light hasn't started blinking yet.

Any input is appreciated
Randy

I would like to know how my 12,954 hours compare to others that have the TV. I am wondering just how seriously I need to get about replacing the bulb. It has been perfect while I have noticed some degradation in the brightness and have increased the settings to try an compensate for that but the red LED light hasn't started blinking yet.

Any input is appreciated
Randy

Randy, it's been quite a while since I knew the "high" numbers for bulb hours but 12K plus sounds REALLY high! You're very fortunate!

My approach was this: Right before the last Super Bowl, I was reaching the normal "high" end of lamp hours and I decided to replace mine because
1. I was having a SB party and didn't want to have a bulb burn out in the middle of the game.
2. If I replaced it BEFORE it burned out, I would then have a backup for when the next one burned out while I ordered the next replacement for it.

The degradation you've noticed is legit. I had to readjust my settings after replacing my bulb as the picture was much brighter.

When you decide to order one, I recommend following the advice I followed and GET AN OEM BULB! I also ordered the bulb only and replaced the bulb in the housing by following a simple set of video instructions. I can't find my information (Where I bought it and the link for the video instructions) but I believe I got it all from this thread. Do a search on "Lamp" and look for OEM and Video in the results.

Good luck!