Well, for one thing, the Avia test where you're looking at white space on the bottom half of the screen and tracking those two faint vertical bars going back and forth over the white seems not to work (Contrast adjust? Color? Can't remember). The faint vertical bars are nowhere to be seen on my 50A10, which makes it impossible to adjust. You're supposed to adjust until one of the bars disappears and the other one is just barely visible. But, without any bars . . . . well, it's a completely useless test/adjustment on the A10.

Oddly, the converse test on Avia (I think it's brightness), where you have a totally black background and you're adjusting two faint vertical bars until one just disappears, does work - just fine. It's only the white background one that doesn't work.

I was wondering if all RPTV LCDs would also not display the faint bars-on-white-background test. IE, is this a unique phenomenon of the A10s or is it inherent in LCD RPTV technology?


Also something that may be a problem is that on an earlier GWIII, "picture" in the user menu really affected contrast. If you calibrate white detail by adjusting "picture", you're very likely to get a low contrast picture. blah

Mark

Why is Avia useless for this TV?

None of the test patterns seem to show properly.

Well, for one thing, the Avia test where you're looking at white space on the bottom half of the screen and tracking those two faint vertical bars going back and forth over the white seems not to work (Contrast adjust? Color? Can't remember). The faint vertical bars are nowhere to be seen on my 50A10, which makes it impossible to adjust. You're supposed to adjust until one of the bars disappears and the other one is just barely visible. But, without any bars . . . . well, it's a completely useless test/adjustment on the A10.

Oddly, the converse test on Avia (I think it's brightness), where you have a totally black background and you're adjusting two faint vertical bars until one just disappears, does work - just fine. It's only the white background one that doesn't work.

I was wondering if all RPTV LCDs would also not display the faint bars-on-white-background test. IE, is this a unique phenomenon of the A10s or is it inherent in LCD RPTV technology?

I was thinking of paying for an ISF calibration.
But then I told I must at least do a Avia calibration, now if that is useless, maybe I should go ahead with the ISF calibration.

Your comments about the A10 pretty much echo mine. I've had the A10 for a week now (got it from Sam's Club also ;-) and have spent a good amount of time fiddling with it. I'm getting ready to post my opinions. Its probably a keeper, though the matching stand is useless to me due to its poor design (too tall and shelves raked back too sharply).
As much as I would like the SXRD I'm having trouble justifying the extra $1500 at this time.
I also tried a Samsung HLP5063W about 9 months ago and was disappointed with it but not so with the A10.
Btw, are you finding SSE to be much of a problem with the A10? I'm not, especially with the picture at more realistic settings and a light controlled room.

I don't fine SSE to be much of a problem on the A-10, but it is present. I wonder why you think the stand is too tall? The TV is sitting way higher than that in my entertainment center, and it still has good brightness from where I am sitting about 12 feet away from it. I watched a large variety of both light ,and dark material last nite, and this thing did a good job on all of it. It may not be direct view CRT quality on blacks, but it looks darn good overall.

Would someone be kind enough to post the dimensions of the box (not the TV dimensions, the actual box that it comes in)? I've searched through this thread and haven't found anyone mention it yet.

I'm wanting to make sure this thing will fit into my wife's SUV and save me delivery charges. Also, the box dimensions of the stand would be a plus. :o

Thanks in advance for the help!

That is in the thread somewhere...just speed read and you will come across it..lol

Would someone be kind enough to post the dimensions of the box (not the TV dimensions, the actual box that it comes in)? I've searched through this thread and haven't found anyone mention it yet.

I'm wanting to make sure this thing will fit into my wife's SUV and save me delivery charges. Also, the box dimensions of the stand would be a plus. :o

Thanks in advance for the help!

I believe this is a case of not-quite-searching-the-right-way. My guess is you searched for "box dimensions" perhaps? Ah, well, that with all due respect is not at all the best way to go about things.

Try this in the "search this thread" search box: "+box +dimensions"

You will be surprised at the wealth of info your search will yield. I would bet a 50" Pann-e-plasma that you'll find your desired info less than five posts down on the first page of results.

By TW, the plusses in the above search mean that BOTH terms - box and dimensions - must be in a post to return a hit. On the other hand, a search such as "box dimensions" returns posts with EITHER box OR dimensions in the post, which as you can imagine returns a dizzying array of far-less useful information than the post using the plusses.

All of this info can be found if you browse through the "advanced search" link below all search boxes in this forum, and then look for a search help link.

That is in the thread somewhere...just speed read and you will come across it..lol
Yes, it's been asked multiple times, and (thankfully?) Post #1 has been edited to include the box dimensions. I took a quick look and Posts #2635, 2645, 2656 are related.

Thanks all. I just didn't realize that the HDMI output to Input 6 on the TV. One thing i did notice was that the SD channels, for the most part, look better when i was on the cable setting, but the HD channels look WAY better through the HDMI input.

I never got a manual with my SA8300HD box, can i download one online somewhere? I guess i should just get it from Cablevision here in CT.

I believe this is a case of not-quite-searching-the-right-way. My guess is you searched for "box dimensions" perhaps? Ah, well, that with all due respect is not at all the best way to go about things.

Try this in the "search this thread" search box: "+box +dimensions"

You will be surprised at the wealth of info your search will yield. I would bet a 50" Pann-e-plasma that you'll find your desired info less than five posts down on the first page of results.

By TW, the plusses in the above search mean that BOTH terms - box and dimensions - must be in a post to return a hit. On the other hand, a search such as "box dimensions" returns posts with EITHER box OR dimensions in the post, which as you can imagine returns a dizzying array of far-less useful information than the post using the plusses.

All of this info can be found if you browse through the "advanced search" link below all search boxes in this forum, and then look for a search help link.
Doh! I feel pretty dumb now, as I see several posts where it's been mentioned. Thanks FFFred; you're right, I did a search for "box dimensions" (not to mention searches for "box", "dimensions", and "packaging" seperately). I didn't know about the "+" command.

I was thinking of paying for an ISF calibration.
But then I told I must at least do a Avia calibration, now if that is useless, maybe I should go ahead with the ISF calibration.

I hadn't heard the thing about having to do an Avia calibration, but I can tell you with an uncommon amount of confidence and certainty that you must be careful with having an ISF calibration guy come out.

At the risk of becoming annoyingly repetitive in this forum, these A10s have a COMPLETELY different (or substantially different at the very least) service menu with which your ISF calibrator would adjust your set - completely different from prior Grand Wega models of this set. I'm told that prior Grand Wega models indeed had very similar service menus to each of their predecessors (GW I, GW II, III and IV, all similar menus), so it's not unreasonable for a calibrator to assure you they can adjust your GW V, A10 model, only to find when they get there that it's a mystery to them. Waste of your and their time . . . and with the price of gas these days . . .

My ISF calibrator, a good one, made this honest mistake, and now he's doing his damndest to come up with literature that explains what to do with these sets. It's not easy to get this info because, apparently, Sony is not making it widely available for fear people will jack up their sets by trying to adjust on their own (these types clearly aren't AVSforum members, no doubt!).

Just be abundantly and repetitively clear with any ISF guy you might contact that the A10s are completely different beasts from GWs I through IV and will require them to get - somehow - literature that will explain the new menus and all the new acronyms and abbreviations, etc.

Anyone been brave enough to do some tooling in the service menu recently? I managed to stumble across how to show the cross hairs, but of course, I couldn't figure out how to adjust the convergence.

Kai

None of the test patterns seem to show properly.

That wasn't my experience; just the white detail one had issues. The color adjustment patterns seemed to work fine (color/hue adjustments), as did the distortion test patterns (with all the circles), the black level pattern . . . . I can't remember them all right now, but I recall all but the white detail one seemed to work and I was able to adjust per the instructions.

Could you elaborate as to what seemed wrong with the patterns you looked at? Perhaps you were looking at some of the more advanced patterns.

I do think that part of the problem is that the Avia test clearly was made when CRTs walked - and dominated - the earth. A lot of their discussion has to do with CRTs and apparently does not apply to RP LCDs. Personally, I think a revised/updated Avia disk is fast becoming overdue, given the accellerating proliferation of non-CRT sets these days (all this is unrelated to any debate about the relative merits of a good quality CRT, black levels etc. and all . . .).

Anyone been brave enough to do some tooling in the service menu recently? I managed to stumble across how to show the cross hairs, but of course, I couldn't figure out how to adjust the convergence.

Kai

Did you also come across an hour meter for the bulb?

Just got the 42" A10 (my first HDTV). Being an old rookie (74), I am confused as to setting the screen format at full, wide zoom, zoom, normal for the different inputs and formats. I have DirecTV SD, progressive scan DVD, an outside antenna on a tower w/rotor and a laptop for Video 7-PC.
Using the OTA antenna, I get 34 analog and 14 digital stations. They vary from 480i (4:3), 720p (16:9), 1080i (16:9). On DirecTV SD I get their SD signals (?? Aspect ratios & resolution).
Watching DVD's are really confusung, some are wide screen, some 480i, others 16:9, others ??.
Can you post some common guidelines as settings that I can use.

Did you also come across an hour meter for the bulb?

Unfortunately, no, I did not.

Kai

Just got the 42" A10 (my first HDTV). Being an old rookie (74), I am confused as to setting the screen format at full, wide zoom, zoom, normal for the different inputs and formats. I have DirecTV SD, progressive scan DVD, an outside antenna on a tower w/rotor and a laptop for Video 7-PC.
Using the OTA antenna, I get 34 analog and 14 digital stations. They vary from 480i (4:3), 720p (16:9), 1080i (16:9). On DirecTV SD I get their SD signals (?? Aspect ratios & resolution).
Watching DVD's are really confusung, some are wide screen, some 480i, others 16:9, others ??.
Can you post some common guidelines as settings that I can use.

Here is what I recommend to get you started, but it's really up to you as to what looks best to your eyes.

Connect the DirecTV receiver via the component (R-B-G rca cables) ouputs to the TV.

Set the DirecTV receiver to 16:9, and the 4:3 content display setting to "normal" or "pillar box" (whichever it is). This will allow the TV to handle any stretching, and chances are more often than not, it will do it better than the receiver can. Keep the TV's "wide" setting on "full". This *should* fill the screen for 16:9 content at the proper aspect ratio, and will give 4:3 content borders on both sides.

Your DVD player should be set up much the same way, with component cables... however, depending upon how good your player's deinterlacer is, you may or may not want to enable progressive scan.

Basically, you'll be doing the same thing twice, but the names of the options may be a little different.

Kai

I'm having eye strain with this TV. Every HDTV I've tried over the past year has cause some kind of discomfort. I'm reaching point where I'm not going to bother with HDTV for as long as I can. I'm hoping my eyes will adjust but my eyes are hurting when I now use my pc. This is getting crazy. I just had a check up about 9 months ago & everything was fine.

Did you also come across an hour meter for the bulb?


I did. I can't remember sitting here at work how I got there, but it is available in the very mystical service menu. The Service Manual actually says how to access it. In fact, other than the hour meter for the bulb (AND another for the display, interestingly), that's the only useful info that service manual has. There is absolutely nothing in there as to picture adjustment.

I'm having eye strain with this TV. Every HDTV I've tried over the past year has cause some kind of discomfort. I'm reaching point where I'm not going to bother with HDTV for as long as I can. I'm hoping my eyes will adjust but my eyes are hurting when I now use my pc. This is getting crazy. I just had a check up about 9 months ago & everything was fine.

Remember not to sit too close.

I have tried everything with all different hdtvs its doesn't seem to work.

Brightness is 50

Contrast is that the iris? its at 2.

ok, I now have it to 75.

I can't seem to change the DRC Mode.

I just got my TV.. but It's showing ESPN HD as 1080i.. how do I force the A10 to go in 720p? I have a Samsung TS360 from DirecTV as the tuner.

I just got my TV.. but It's showing ESPN HD as 1080i.. how do I force the A10 to go in 720p? I have a Samsung TS360 from DirecTV as the tuner.


No need to force; it already is in 720p. That's all it can ever be, seeing as the display is in fact 720p vertical. What you are most likely seeing is the A10's indication of the nature of the signal it is RECEIVING; not what it displays though.

Your set takes that ESPN HD 1080i input and converts it to 720p and then you see the 720p image on the A10. This is the case, even though when you hit "display" on the remote, it will indicate 1080i (again, this is only telling you what signal it is RECEIVING; display will always be 720p).

Usually, it does a damned good job at this. I understand that many many of the HD signals out there today are 1080i, so no matter what, for the A10, they have to be converted by some device to 720p. That conversion can happen typically in two places: at the tuner/set top box or inside the A10. The only question is which device does a better job at the converting. If you can figure out how to get into that Samsung tuner's service menu, you might be able to set the tuner to convert everything to 720p. Whether that's better than the A10's converter is a question only your eyes can answer.

I can't seem to get my set top cable box to output in 720p, so I rely on the A10 to deal with 1080i material, and it does a really really good job.

No need to force; it already is in 720p. That's all it can ever be, seeing as the display is in fact 720p vertical. What you are most likely seeing is the A10's indication of the nature of the signal it is RECEIVING; not what it displays though.

Your set takes that ESPN HD 1080i input and converts it to 720p and then you see the 720p image on the A10. This is the case, even though when you hit "display" on the remote, it will indicate 1080i (again, this is only telling you what signal it is RECEIVING; display will always be 720p).

Usually, it does a damned good job at this. I understand that many many of the HD signals out there today are 1080i, so no matter what, for the A10, they have to be converted by some device to 720p. That conversion can happen typically in two places: at the tuner/set top box or inside the A10. The only question is which device does a better job at the converting. If you can figure out how to get into that Samsung tuner's service menu, you might be able to set the tuner to convert everything to 720p. Whether that's better than the A10's converter is a question only your eyes can answer.

I can't seem to get my set top cable box to output in 720p, so I rely on the A10 to deal with 1080i material, and it does a really really good job.

thanks fred.. tv looks stunning... I imagine there has to be some way to set the samsung to 720p because my HD DirecTivo allows me to set what resolution you want things broadcasted on (On my Sharp Aquous 26 inch LCD in the bedroom).

I can't seem to change the DRC Mode.

You can only adjust this on SD or non-progressive sources.

Just be abundantly and repetitively clear with any ISF guy you might contact that the A10s are completely different beasts from GWs I through IV and will require them to get - somehow - literature that will explain the new menus and all the new acronyms and abbreviations, etc.

Thats why I'm waiting for about one year. #1 for the TV to settle in. #2 waiting for these ISF calibrators to do their training on other A10's :D

With the fantastic PQ I have now. I think I can wait till next year. :)

So for those who have had these sets for a while, what are your feelings on DVD output? Do you see improvements in PQ using progressive scan or upconversion?

On my, admittedly basic, DVD player, I'm seeing little to no difference in the 480i/480p PQ once it gets to the screen. I've left it in interlace mode based on this fact (less processing the better).

Anyone had different experiences? I'm willing to upgrade my DVD player if there are significant benefits.

...So for those who have had these sets for a while, what are your feelings on DVD output? Do you see improvements in PQ using progressive scan or upconversion?...

I have a Panasonic DVD-R (DVR-510H). It looks way better to me in 480i, than in 480p. If you send 480i over, the TV will allow you to try several different DRC settings. I *think* Cinemotion may also only be available in 480i, but not sure.

I did. I can't remember sitting here at work how I got there, but it is available in the very mystical service menu. The Service Manual actually says how to access it. In fact, other than the hour meter for the bulb (AND another for the display, interestingly), that's the only useful info that service manual has...

FFFred, for those of us that are afraid of the service menu, can you post step by step how to get in to check it, and how to get back out?

Thanks!

So for those who have had these sets for a while, what are your feelings on DVD output? Do you see improvements in PQ using progressive scan or upconversion?

On my, admittedly basic, DVD player, I'm seeing little to no difference in the 480i/480p PQ once it gets to the screen. I've left it in interlace mode based on this fact (less processing the better).

Anyone had different experiences? I'm willing to upgrade my DVD player if there are significant benefits.

'Looks better to me when I switch my DVD player to 480p, versus 480i. On the "p" setting, the picture is fantastic.

I hear that, unless you invest serious coin in a serious upconverting DVD player (i.e., 600 - 800 bucks, as this post went to press . . ), you are likely best served by the A10's upconverter. It certainly does such a good job for me that I no longer contemplate acquiring an upconverting DVD player.

'Looks better to me when I switch my DVD player to 480p, versus 480i. On the "p" setting, the picture is fantastic.

I hear that, unless you invest serious coin in a serious upconverting DVD player (i.e., 600 - 800 bucks, as this post went to press . . ), you are likely best served by the A10's upconverter. It certainly does such a good job for me that I no longer contemplate acquiring an upconverting DVD player.
What's your DVD player?

I have a Pioneer DV563A. Has anyone tried 480i vs. 480p with this player and their A10?

Because of the lack of picture control on the VGA input, I used Avia along with the VMR9 settings to calibrate it through XP MCE. With the new PureVideo decoder, DVDs are looking very close to HD quality. I just watched Johnny Mnemonic in SuperBit and was blown away.

I know someone advised not to mess with PStrip, and I can see their point, but then I have the tradeoff in Media Center-either black bars or 1/2 inch overscan. This is OK for web browsing and gaming, but not for movies. Anyone gotten around this limitation yet?

What's your DVD player?

I have a Pioneer DV563A. Has anyone tried 480i vs. 480p with this player and their A10?

I have a 3-year old Samsung DVD-P701. Nothing too fancy, but not bottom of the line. Does progressive, component out, Digital coax/optical audio out. DVDs look fantastic on it, set to Progressive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FFFred
{regarding getting to a bulb life hour counter in the service menu . . . } I did. I can't remember sitting here at work how I got there, but it is available in the very mystical service menu. The Service Manual actually says how to access it. In fact, other than the hour meter for the bulb (AND another for the display, interestingly), that's the only useful info that service manual has...FFFred, for those of us that are afraid of the service menu, can you post step by step how to get in to check it, and how to get back out?

Thanks!

I'll give it a shot, with the caveat that I am not responsible for any resulting harm done to anyone's set by anyone delving into the service menu. I am not a tech. Proceed at your own risk:

In standby mode, press the buttons on the Remote Commander sequentially, in rapid succession, like this:

A. Press [Display] , Channel [5] , Sound Volume [+] , Power [ON]

B. You want to be in what Sony calls the "BE-micro service menu," press JUMP two times to get into this cryptic menu.

You'll see something like this on your display (note the forum message editor doesn't seem to let me format the below, so this is a bit jumbled compared to what you actually see):

CONFIGRATION 00 SERVICE
CP18_COLOR_SYS 00 00A0 BE Micro

Press channel 4 once to go one item down into the lamp time display (4 = next adjustment item down; 1 is up) You'll see something like this on your display:

GW_SPECIAL 34 SERVICE
LAMP_TIME 02 00000032 BE Micro

That's your lamp time - a zero-filled 8-digit number, in this case: 00000032. This means "lamp time = 32 hours". Now you know how long your lamp/bulb has been on.

To see how long your panel display has been going, press 4 again. You see this on your display:

GW_SPECIAL 34 SERVICE
PANEL_TIME 01 00000032 BE Micro

. . . .your panel has been on a total of 32 hours . . . .

Exit service mode by turning off your set.

There you go. Again, proceed with EXTREME caution in this completely unknown service menu . . . once you get into the service menu per above, if you start pressing the channel buttons haphazardly, all sorts of wierd stuff comes up. BE CAREFUL.

Thanks all. I just didn't realize that the HDMI output to Input 6 on the TV. One thing i did notice was that the SD channels, for the most part, look better when i was on the cable setting, but the HD channels look WAY better through the HDMI input.

I never got a manual with my SA8300HD box, can i download one online somewhere? I guess i should just get it from Cablevision here in CT.


Go to the SA website:

http://www.scientificatlanta.com/consumers%5Fnew/cableboxes/8300hd.htm

Just sign up for the Explorer eClub....

Hello All,

Just got my 50" A10 delivered yesterday afternoon, I replaced a GWIV 50" and initially was very happy with the improved black level. My concern is that after watching the A10 for about 4 hours today, it has developed a "blotch" of blue just left and above the center of the screen. It's a "blotch" of blue only visible on a dark background about 1" in diameter though not a perfect circle. At first I though stuck pixels, but wouldn't it be odd for a group of pixels to be stuck in exactly the same part of the screen? The "blotch" is clearly visible during all but the brightest scenes, any ideas what could be causing this? I have never seen this before this afternoon and nothing else in my setup has changed. BTW I already checked the ouput with different sources, no difference, and I also confirmed that the "blotch" can be seen when the display is powered down just before the lamp shuts off.

I already contacted my dealer, they will bring a new set out on Saturday if I cannot resolve the issue before then.

Thanks,

Half

Hello All,

Just got my 50" A10 delivered yesterday afternoon, I replaced a GWIV 50" and initially was very happy with the improved black level. My concern is that after watching the A10 for about 4 hours today, it has developed a "blotch" of blue just left and above the center of the screen. It's a "blotch" of blue only visible on a dark background about 1" in diameter though not a perfect circle. At first I though stuck pixels, but wouldn't it be odd for a group of pixels to be stuck in exactly the same part of the screen? The "blotch" is clearly visible during all but the brightest scenes, any ideas what could be causing this? I have never seen this before this afternoon and nothing else in my setup has changed. BTW I already checked the ouput with different sources, no difference, and I also confirmed that the "blotch" can be seen when the display is powered down just before the lamp shuts off.

I already contacted my dealer, they will bring a new set out on Saturday if I cannot resolve the issue before then.

Thanks,

Half

I've got red. :D

Color non-uniformity. It was explained to me earlier in this thread as being a trade off of the technology.

I generally can't see it except on dark scenes, or black and white footage (Sin City being a recent offender in that regard). I really didn't remember seeing it when I first got the set, but it set in within a couple of days and hasn't gone anywhere. I notice it some times less than others.

If this is NOT a "trade off", as I was previously advised, I hope someone will speak up and lay it down proper.

Kai

I've got red. :D

Color non-uniformity. It was explained to me earlier in this thread as being a trade off of the technology.

I generally can't see it except on dark scenes, or black and white footage (Sin City being a recent offender in that regard). I really didn't remember seeing it when I first got the set, but it set in within a couple of days and hasn't gone anywhere. I notice it some times less than others.

If this is NOT a "trade off", as I was previously advised, I hope someone will speak up and lay it down proper.

Kai

I've got red or pink in my lower left corner, and a bit of blue in the upper right corner. It only seems noticeable on b&w material which I watch maybe 2% of the time. It is normal on these TVs but it's possible that a new light engine could make it better--or worse.

I've got red or pink in my lower left corner, and a bit of blue in the upper right corner. It only seems noticeable on b&w material which I watch maybe 2% of the time. It is normal on these TVs but it's possible that a new light engine could make it better--or worse.

I have had three different generations of th GW, 3, 4, and 5 this is the first set that has exhibited this issue. My GWIII had a stuck pixel, but it was very had to see unless you were looking for it, this issue is VERY obvious. I really like the improved black level, but if this is a "trade-off" of the new light engine, I am not impressed at all.

I will be swapping the set out with the dealer on Saturday if nobody has any other suggestions on how to eliminate this artifact. Or if it is truly a new "feature" of the A10 series maybe I will get a 55 or 60 A20 instead.


Half

I just watched Ed wood (B&W movie) and noticed a bit of a problem.

On the entire left edge of the tv it looks like there are yellow blotches/smudges. Is this a problem with LCD technology or a problem with my set?

Wow. That's like the 3rd post in a row reporting a blotch/smudge problem.

I swear these threads will discourage me from EVER buying an advanced technology.

Between this, the D-ILA and the Panasonics, it seems like people are having nothing but problems.

I just watched Ed wood (B&W movie) and noticed a bit of a problem.

On the entire left edge of the tv it looks like there are yellow blotches/smudges. Is this a problem with LCD technology or a problem with my set?

Most LCD RPTVs have it to some degree. To get one that is "perfect" would be a miracle.

It should be noted that these red/blue color blotches show up very faint and don't detract very much from viewing. If you are considering exchanging it expect the next one to have it as well. But, you may get lucky and get one that shows it much less.

These TVs are not perfect.

It should be noted that these red/blue color blotches show up very faint and don't detract very much from viewing. If you are considering exchanging it expect the next one to have it as well. But, you may get lucky and get one that shows it much less.

These TVs are not perfect.

I really must be a picky S.O.B. then, cause my definition of "faint" and what I am seeing is quite different! Unfortunately, now that I have seen the "artifact" it will be all too easy for me to spot at all times, and will definitely be distracting.

I appreciate your explanation fo the issue that I have obivously stirred up this evening/morining. As I mentioned, I must be one of the SUPER lucky ones that has owned four of the previous model GW's without EVER seeing an issue such as this. You keep mentioning that this is a normal artifact of the 3 panel LCD technology, but is it more accurate to say that it is normal for the latest generation of LCD rear projection?

Thanks again, not trying to be argumentative, just shocked that I was able to own one of these sets for so many years without incident.


:mad: Half :(

As I mentioned, I must be one of the SUPER lucky ones that has owned four of the previous model GW's without EVER seeing an issue such as this. You keep mentioning that this is a normal artifact of the 3 panel LCD technology, but is it more accurate to say that it is normal for the latest generation of LCD rear projection?

It has been reported that this issue exists or did exist in the $10,000 70" Sony Qualia 006. It's possible that you just never noticed it on your previous TVs. It may have been so small because they had higher quality light engines. Seeing the prices on the A10s should give you a pretty good indication that the light engine being used isn't the best and this issue shows itself more.

This issue does fall under the "being picky" category, but exchange it for another if it really bothers you. I just don't think you'll find one that is "perfect."

Something odd happened last night. I was watching the new Survivor on the CBS HD channel. The entire show, there were thin black bars on each side of the picture. Not the same type of black bar you would see if watching something in 4:3 format, much smaller. I scrolled up through everyone of my other HD channels and there were no bars.

Does anyone know if CBS transmits their broadcasts in a different format than the other stations?

I played with the stretch modes and the scrolled through the settings on my SA 8300HD box, but all they did was distort the picture.

Did anyone else notice this?

The only time the color uniformity issue bugs me is with black and white content... which, granted, I don't watch a ton of. It seems to come and go to varying degrees.

Just for the info, what causes this drawback? What does the light engine have to do with it?

Kai

Something odd happened last night. I was watching the new Survivor on the CBS HD channel. The entire show, there were thin black bars on each side of the picture. Not the same type of black bar you would see if watching something in 4:3 format, much smaller. I scrolled up through everyone of my other HD channels and there were no bars.

Does anyone know if CBS transmits their broadcasts in a different format than the other stations?

I played with the stretch modes and the scrolled through the settings on my SA 8300HD box, but all they did was distort the picture.

Did anyone else notice this?

I didn't see it, but my understanding is that Survivor isn't recorded in HD. CBS or the local CBS affiliate must be zooming the 4:3 image.

The only time the color uniformity issue bugs me is with black and white content... which, granted, I don't watch a ton of. It seems to come and go to varying degrees.

Just for the info, what causes this drawback? What does the light engine have to do with it?

Kai

I'm going to assume that it has something to do with the optics. It can be annoying if it's really bad. One way to lessen the effect is by changing the Color Temp setting. I find that setting it to Warm 1 evens it out quite a bit on mine. I can just barely notice it.

After using my A10 for the past three weeks I find I'm liking the Warm 1 setting a bit more over Neutral. Cool is too blue and Warm 2 seems just a tad too red. But, let your eyes decide...

So for those who have had these sets for a while, what are your feelings on DVD output? Do you see improvements in PQ using progressive scan or upconversion?

On my, admittedly basic, DVD player, I'm seeing little to no difference in the 480i/480p PQ once it gets to the screen. I've left it in interlace mode based on this fact (less processing the better).

Anyone had different experiences? I'm willing to upgrade my DVD player if there are significant benefits.

I have a one-year-old cheap Sony DVD/VCR combo unit. I tried both progressive, and normal modes with it. Strangely, the PQ seems sharper and better using standard (480i) versus using progressive. What have others found on this?

I have a one-year-old cheap Sony DVD/VCR combo unit. I tried both progressive, and normal modes with it. Strangely, the PQ seems sharper and better using standard (480i) versus using progressive. What have others found on this?

On both my old Onkyo and new Sony DVD changers, picture looks better with progressive 480p output. On 480i, the sony looks better than the onkyo did, but I can see the interlace lines with both - especially noticable are diagonal lines that show up very jagged.

Alan, I use progressive mode on my Sony 775 DVD player. It seems a bit better over the A10's deinterlacer. I wouldn't say it's a huge improvement, but it is a bit smoother looking.

I think the cheaper PS DVD players would probably benefit more by setting them to 480i.

Yeah, I agree with the progressive folks. I checked this out on this set yesterday and thought things looked much smoother via progressive vs. interlace (with cinemotion on).

I have a Denon 2800 MK II (Decent high end DVD player) and I left it on 480p..what I have noticed is that at 50 inch.. you REALLY start seeing the limitations of 480p that weren't present on my old Toshiba 16x9 34 inch CRT... :)

It has been reported that this issue exists or did exist in the $10,000 70" Sony Qualia 006. It's possible that you just never noticed it on your previous TVs. It may have been so small because they had higher quality light engines. Seeing the prices on the A10s should give you a pretty good indication that the light engine being used isn't the best and this issue shows itself more.

This issue does fall under the "being picky" category, but exchange it for another if it really bothers you. I just don't think you'll find one that is "perfect."

Is anyone SURE that 'the light engine being used isn't the best'? Just because the prices have fallen doesn't mean quality has been cut. Electronics always fall in price as economies of scale kick in. The GWIV 50 inch has been selling at 2 grand or so. Does that mean it's quality is far worse than when the SAME TV was selling for 3 grand a year ago? I think not. Such assumptions are junk science at best.

Because of the lack of picture control on the VGA input, I used Avia along with the VMR9 settings to calibrate it through XP MCE. With the new PureVideo decoder, DVDs are looking very close to HD quality. I just watched Johnny Mnemonic in SuperBit and was blown away.

I know someone advised not to mess with PStrip, and I can see their point, but then I have the tradeoff in Media Center-either black bars or 1/2 inch overscan. This is OK for web browsing and gaming, but not for movies. Anyone gotten around this limitation yet?

i'm using powerstrip with no problems. i'm using a custom res of 1200x666 @ 16:9 and it works perfectly. it corrects the overscan on gives a 1:1 pixel mapping from what i see.

what have you guys been doing to adjust you set to work well with your pc?

Is anyone SURE that 'the light engine being used isn't the best'? Just because the prices have fallen doesn't mean quality has been cut. Electronics always fall in price as economies of scale kick in. The GWIV 50 inch has been selling at 2 grand or so. Does that mean it's quality is far worse than when the SAME TV was selling for 3 grand a year ago? I think not. Such assumptions are junk science at best.

Alan,

I was just trying to come up with a response to that comment myself. I couldn't agree with you more, the 34" 16x9 set that Sony sold for like $10,000.00 in 1999, and 2001 is currently selling for about $1800.00 and now has much higher performance! The reasoning for the price point change of the GrandWega V is simply competition, if the competition raised their prices Sony would too, if the lower them Sony will follow.

Half

I'm going to assume that it has something to do with the optics. It can be annoying if it's really bad. One way to lessen the effect is by changing the Color Temp setting. I find that setting it to Warm 1 evens it out quite a bit on mine. I can just barely notice it.

After using my A10 for the past three weeks I find I'm liking the Warm 1 setting a bit more over Neutral. Cool is too blue and Warm 2 seems just a tad too red. But, let your eyes decide...

Interesting suggestion, I'll give it a try when I get home and see if it helps. I'm not a big fan of "warm" pictures, but maybe I can get used to it if it makes a difference.

On another note, I noticed I now have a single stuck green pixel near the bottom of the screen. :(

I have a one-year-old cheap Sony DVD/VCR combo unit. I tried both progressive, and normal modes with it. Strangely, the PQ seems sharper and better using standard (480i) versus using progressive. What have others found on this?

This is most likely due to the "Digital Reality Creation" circuit on the TV... as others have noted, it can make a tremendous difference on SD content. I noticed that in some cases it introduces some artifacting that makes the image look somewhat unnatural to me.

For flat shaded stuff like anime, it's totally ace though.

Kai

Is anyone SURE that 'the light engine being used isn't the best'? Just because the prices have fallen doesn't mean quality has been cut. Electronics always fall in price as economies of scale kick in. The GWIV 50 inch has been selling at 2 grand or so. Does that mean it's quality is far worse than when the SAME TV was selling for 3 grand a year ago? I think not. Such assumptions are junk science at best.

The GWIV has the same issue. They all have it to some degree. Ask UMR.

My point on the "light engine" is that it's not of the same quality that is used in the A20 or SXRD models. It isn't unlike Sony or any other company to cut quality to make bigger profits. Using cheaper optics may just make the issue worse, thus my assumption on this matter.

Sony did move a good portion of the manufacturing of the A10 to the Mexico plant. Cheaper labor and lax qaulity control can also be figured into the mix here. I doubt they're making the light engines, but mishandling them could cause problems.

On another note, I noticed I now have a single stuck green pixel near the bottom of the screen. :(

I got a blue one in the upper right part of the screen. I can't see it past 3 feet or so. It sucks but it is normal on these TVs.

I just calibrated an A10 and I could see situations where an A20 would be preferred. The performance of the automatic iris feature was very disappointing and calibration of this set is VERY difficult and different than any other Grand Wega. It will be very challenging for any amateur to figure this beast out.

My big problem with the automatic iris feature is that it is messing with picture level. I could not stop it from shifting gray scale dramatically when the darn thing was on.

I do like the iris feature when you use it manually.

The A20 is easier to calibrate well and it does appear to have potentially superior panels based on the single sample I looked at.

I just calibrated an A10 and I could see situations where an A20 would be preferred. The performance of the automatic iris feature was very disappointing and calibration of this set is VERY difficult and different than any other Grand Wega. It will be very challenging for any amateur to figure this beast out.

My big problem with the automatic iris feature is that it is messing with picture level. I could not stop it from shifting gray scale dramatically when the darn thing was on.

I do like the iris feature when you use it manually.

The A20 is easier to calibrate well and it does appear to have potentially superior panels based on the single sample I looked at.


You said "I do like this iris feature when yu use it manually." How can we use it "manually"? Do we go into the custom menu then, I believe, advanced programing and if so.......do we turn it "off" in there? If not there.......where?

[QUOTE=Halfrican]I really must be a picky S.O.B. then, cause my definition of "faint" and what I am seeing is quite different! Unfortunately, now that I have seen the "artifact" it will be all too easy for me to spot at all times, and will definitely be distracting.

I do not see any blotching at all at any distance...so I guess it is not the fault of the "Technology"

You said "I do like this iris feature when yu use it manually." How can we use it "manually"? Do we go into the custom menu then, I believe, advanced programing and if so.......do we turn it "off" in there? If not there.......where?

Turn off "advanced iris", and adjust the amount of light manually with the regular "iris" setting.

Kai

I just calibrated an A10 and I could see situations where an A20 would be preferred. The performance of the automatic iris feature was very disappointing and calibration of this set is VERY difficult and different than any other Grand Wega. It will be very challenging for any amateur to figure this beast out.

My big problem with the automatic iris feature is that it is messing with picture level. I could not stop it from shifting gray scale dramatically when the darn thing was on.

I do like the iris feature when you use it manually.

The A20 is easier to calibrate well and it does appear to have potentially superior panels based on the single sample I looked at.

I hope you will consider "translating" some of the service menu options for us. I can understand not wanting to post specific tweaks due to it being "bad for business", but if you have acheived an understanding of what options do what I'm sure alot of us would appreciate the heads up.

I know I would sure as hell like to get rid of the misconvergence I spotted when I stumbled across the "cross hairs", and would love to try and improve the somewhat spotty geometry issues the set has.

Kai

You said "I do like this iris feature when yu use it manually." How can we use it "manually"? Do we go into the custom menu then, I believe, advanced programing and if so.......do we turn it "off" in there? If not there.......where?

Look under advanced video/advanced iris and set it to off to disable the automatic iris function.

I hope you will consider "translating" some of the service menu options for us. I can understand not wanting to post specific tweaks due to it being "bad for business", but if you have acheived an understanding of what options do what I'm sure alot of us would appreciate the heads up.

I know I would sure as hell like to get rid of the misconvergence I spotted when I stumbled across the "cross hairs", and would love to try and improve the somewhat spotty geometry issues the set has.

Kai

Sorry, I am not able to provide service guidance anymore. That is highly frowned on in THE community.

Sorry, I am not able to provide service guidance anymore. That is highly frowned on in THE community.

That's a real shame.

Did you managed to scrouge up a technical doc from Sony, or was it all trial and error on your part?

kai

That's a real shame.

Did you managed to scrouge up a technical doc from Sony, or was it all trial and error on your part?

kai

Trial and error on my part.

Sorry, I am not able to provide service guidance anymore. That is highly frowned on in THE community.


Did you welch on your collection money payment this month? LOL I suppose they made you an offer you CAN'T refuse. LOL :eek:

I just noticed last night that I have a single stuck blue pixel near the center of the screen on my new 50A10 :( What to do?

To be completely honest, I can hardly see it... even up close, it's fairly dim. From more than 3 feet away, I couldn't pick it out if my life depended on it.

If its fully illuminated and really sticks out to you, exchange the TV if you still have the option to do so. Otherwise, you'll have to call Habi-- errr, "Steve" at Sony and deal with them trying to convince you that its a feature of the screen. :rolleyes:

Kai

Trial and error on my part.
Well, let me ask you this then. Can the geometry, display rotation, display position, and convergence indeed be corrected via the service menu options that are available?

I've tried going through the menu, making little changes here and there to see what happens, and by and large most of the options don't seem to do anything at all. Of course, I reverted everything I changed back to the default settings.

Kai

So where is this colour splotching coming from? It is the LCD's? The bulb or some other part?

Well, let me ask you this then. Can the geometry, display rotation, display position, and convergence indeed be corrected via the service menu options that are available?

I've tried going through the menu, making little changes here and there to see what happens, and by and large most of the options don't seem to do anything at all. Of course, I reverted everything I changed back to the default settings.

Kai

I did not try to change geometry. The display I was adjusting was fine in that category. Micro displays never offer electronic display rotation as a service mode adjustment. Color decoder and gray scale can be corrected in the service mode.

An RPTV is not the best choice if you want perfect geometry.

Nothing's perfect, but I was hoping it could get a little closer to it.

I won't bother you about it again.

Kai

[QUOTE=BBQmyNUTZ]To be completely honest, I can hardly see it... even up close, it's fairly dim. From more than 3 feet away, I couldn't pick it out if my life depended on it.

The lesson here is DO NOT search the screen for defects form 3" away unless you want to be forever unhappy with your set.

NEVER put a test pattern on to search for small errors in geometry..unless you want to be forever unhappy with your set

If everything looks good from your normal viewing position...WHY look for trouble?

If you don't know it's there it won't constantly bug you.

At all cost resist the temptation to find flaws.

To be completely honest, I can hardly see it... even up close, it's fairly dim. From more than 3 feet away, I couldn't pick it out if my life depended on it.

The lesson here is DO NOT search the screen for defects form 3" away unless you want to be forever unhappy with your set.

NEVER put a test pattern on to search for small errors in geometry..unless you want to be forever unhappy with your set

If everything looks good from your normal viewing position...WHY look for trouble?

If you don't know it's there it won't constantly bug you.

At all cost resist the temptation to find flaws.

I didn't go out of my way to look for it. I was actually bending down to pop in a new DVD in my player (which is located under the set), and I saw it when I was standing up.

I took a step back, couldn't see it, decided it wasn't a problem and I don't think about it one bit when I'm watching something.

The color blotching, on the other hand... kind of noticible.

So where is this colour splotching coming from? It is the LCD's? The bulb or some other part?

Would like to hear the answer to that myself.

Kai

The GWIV has the same issue. They all have it to some degree. Ask UMR.

My point on the "light engine" is that it's not of the same quality that is used in the A20 or SXRD models. It isn't unlike Sony or any other company to cut quality to make bigger profits. Using cheaper optics may just make the issue worse, thus my assumption on this matter.

Sony did move a good portion of the manufacturing of the A10 to the Mexico plant. Cheaper labor and lax qaulity control can also be figured into the mix here. I doubt they're making the light engines, but mishandling them could cause problems.

Why would the A-20 have a 'better' light engine? It is not a high end product either. Is the A-20 any different than the GW III, or GWIV light engines? I do know the A-10 has a slightly lower resolution than the older models, but that shouldn't account for weird color splotches etc., which would be more a QC issue I would think. I WOULD expect the the SXRD to be better. since it is a higher end product. The light engines are not made in Mexico, but I do agree there could be problems in handling, and assembly. I imagine some people are expecting more perfection in these things than is reasonable. You have several MILLION pixels in the light engine. The odds are huge that a few of them are going to be bad. I guess the best practice to follow is don't go LOOKING for problems. If you can't see the issue in normal viewing, then don't worry about it. But if you can see it in normal use, I would not be pleased either. I have only used my new A-10 2 evenings so far..and it hasn't shown any issues yet. You guys are making me paranoid now. :)

I got a blue one in the upper right part of the screen. I can't see it past 3 feet or so. It sucks but it is normal on these TVs.

If you can't see it from where you normally sit to watch TV, then don't worry about it. The odds you will get display with several million pixels perfect is slim indeed.

I didn't go out of my way to look for it. I was actually bending down to pop in a new DVD in my player (which is located under the set), and I saw it when I was standing up.

I took a step back, couldn't see it, decided it wasn't a problem and I don't think about it one bit when I'm watching something.

The color blotching, on the other hand... kind of noticible.

I agree, if it were just a "stuck" or "dead" pixel, I could live with it. But, the "blotching" issue is clearly visible on any dark background from my viewing distance of 11 feet, not acceptable at all.

I have actually decided to return the set for a GWIV 50" at a significant discount from dealer.

Thanks to all for letting me know that I wasn't alone.

Half

[QUOTE=k2koq]Also, if you don't want to hear about flaws or problems with your new set you should not visit this forum. ;)

True. But then again, if it wasn't for this forum, I probably would've wound up bringing home a Samsung... then I would really be in hell.

Kai

I currently have a 40" wide and 21" deep CWD stand/cabinet that my 42A10 fits perfectly on.

Like most of us I have absolutley no place to put a center channel.
Unless I were to build another shelf on top to put the TV, and the center under.

I have looked at every TV stand currently available and feel that I would have to go with a fairly expensive and probably 60"+ wide 3 bay stand.
So that the center would fit in the center bay and my equipment on either side.

Just go back from World Market and found this new media center.
40" wide and 24" deep.
With a shelf directly under the TV! Perfect for the center.
AND there is enough width inside to stack my equipment side by side.
There is also a removable shelf inside and I can unscrew the doors too.

Scroll down to the bottom of the page and you will see:

"SAVE $50"
CORTESE MEDIA STAND
NOW $299.

http://www.worldmarket.com/costplus/site/rop/index.jsp

So where is this colour splotching coming from? It is the LCD's? The bulb or some other part?

Most of it is from polarizer alignment and uniformity problems. You will be happy to know its close cousin SXRD, LCoS and D-ILA suffer the same problem. It is even present on the vaunted Qualia.

Most of it is from polarizer alignment and uniformity problems. You will be happy to know its close cousin SXRD, LCoS and D-ILA suffer the same problem. It is even present on the vaunted Qualia.

Umr,

Is the A20 series actually the same display as last years GWIV? If so is the service menu the same as last year (user tweakable)? Other than the lack of picture in picture are there any other differences between the A20 and last years 55 and 60?

Thanks in advance,

Half

Had my 42" A10 for a few weeks now and decided to try a work around to allow headphones to be connected to the set. My wife is noise sensitive and bedtime is 2-3 hours before mine. This solution worked for me.
Went to Radio Shack and got the following items:

1 set of 6' audio cables # 42-2483; one 1/8 stereo plug to two phono plugs
1 RCA stereo infrared transmitter & wireless headphones w/volume control
1 1/8" in-line mini-jack coupler # 274-886 (stereo to stereo accepts two mini-plugs)

Hooked up the 6' audio cables to the audio out jacks (p.17 box # 8 )of the TV.
Use the coupler to connect the 1/8" mini-plug to the 1/8" mini-plug of the RCA transmitter. Connect the power supply of the transmitter to a surge strip.

Go into WEGA GATE, settings, sound mode. Set steady sound on, Reduce volume offset to 2. I have found that you do not have to go to the speaker option and turn off the TV speakers. There is enough audio output from the TV to drive the headphones. Exit WEGA GATE and you are all set.
To use , turn on the transmitter and wireless headphones. You can now turn down the TV volume and turn up the headphone volume control. You will get low volume form the TV speakers but the headphones have a good volume range. Don't ask me why this is but I am a happy camper. My wife sleeps soundly and I stay up as late as I want and enjoy Tv or DVD"s.

Umr,

Is the A20 series actually the same display as last years GWIV? If so is the service menu the same as last year (user tweakable)? Other than the lack of picture in picture are there any other differences between the A20 and last years 55 and 60?

Thanks in advance,

Half

No.

Skip because No.

Yes.

Hello All,

Just got my 50" A10 delivered yesterday afternoon, I replaced a GWIV 50" and initially was very happy with the improved black level. My concern is that after watching the A10 for about 4 hours today, it has developed a "blotch" of blue just left and above the center of the screen. It's a "blotch" of blue only visible on a dark background about 1" in diameter though not a perfect circle. At first I though stuck pixels, but wouldn't it be odd for a group of pixels to be stuck in exactly the same part of the screen? The "blotch" is clearly visible during all but the brightest scenes, any ideas what could be causing this? I have never seen this before this afternoon and nothing else in my setup has changed. BTW I already checked the ouput with different sources, no difference, and I also confirmed that the "blotch" can be seen when the display is powered down just before the lamp shuts off.

I already contacted my dealer, they will bring a new set out on Saturday if I cannot resolve the issue before then.

Thanks,

Half

Wow, this is exactly my problem, a circular blotch, not perfectly circular and also having a line extending off from the circle. My color is blackish/blue. I just hung the phone up with my dealer. I am returning it for another. If this second one has the same prolem, then back to the drawing board. Otherwise, a great set. I can't live with this crap though, that's for darn sure. How annoying!

So let me ask this - if I get a new set and do nto see the blotch problem, or whatever you call it, is there a chance that this blotch may appear in a year? I ask because of my warranty. I was going to cancel my 4 yr warranty when I exchange the set but now I may not, if this problem can creep up.

Or, would the problem be there from the beginning and cannot happen in later years?

Most of it is from polarizer alignment and uniformity problems. You will be happy to know its close cousin SXRD, LCoS and D-ILA suffer the same problem. It is even present on the vaunted Qualia.

So can anything be done about it?

Most of it is from polarizer alignment and uniformity problems. You will be happy to know its close cousin SXRD, LCoS and D-ILA suffer the same problem. It is even present on the vaunted Qualia.

So in other words...we need to FORGET about having a perfect TV !! :)

So can anything be done about it?

Better polarizer alignment can help quite a bit, but this is not normally documented in the current models. They intend a complete light engine swap. I also believe new wire grid polarizers reduce this problem, but you as a consumer don't have a choice about this other than to choose a manufacturer that uses this technology.

Here is a link.

http://www.profluxpolarizer.com/

Brillian claimed to be using these and I will say their color uniformity across the screen is better than other polarizer based displays I have seen.

It has been reported that this issue exists or did exist in the $10,000 70" Sony Qualia 006. It's possible that you just never noticed it on your previous TVs. It may have been so small because they had higher quality light engines. Seeing the prices on the A10s should give you a pretty good indication that the light engine being used isn't the best and this issue shows itself more.

This issue does fall under the "being picky" category, but exchange it for another if it really bothers you. I just don't think you'll find one that is "perfect."

The light engine is better in the previous model?????
Really?

I did not try to change geometry. The display I was adjusting was fine in that category. Micro displays never offer electronic display rotation as a service mode adjustment. Color decoder and gray scale can be corrected in the service mode.
UMR, thanks for the info on what can be corrected by you. It sounds like users are going to need to confirm in advance what a calibrator they might plan to hire can do with this set. What is your opinion of signal processing the set does? Does it have any noise suppresion or edge enhancement that you don't like? Are you able to turn off any signal processing that you think degrades the picture?

Is the "blotch" there from the beginning or can it happen at anytime?

Better polarizer alignment can help quite a bit, but this is not normally documented in the current models. They intend a complete light engine swap. I also believe new wire grid polarizers reduce this problem, but you as a consumer don't have a choice about this other than to choose a manufacturer that uses this technology.

Here is a link.

http://www.profluxpolarizer.com/

Brillian claimed to be using these and I will say their color uniformity across the screen is better than other polarizer based displays I have seen.

Do these color blotch issues usually show up when the TV is new/nearly new, or can they crop up even after months of use? Should people send a new TV back for this issue, or is it likely to be evident on most units? Thanks for your input, you know more about this than anyone else here.

Color blotches can show up at anytime, but the causes will vary. Polarizer uniformity problems can change with time as the polarizer ages if the display uses organic polarizers. It is a common failure point with polarizer based displays and one TI emphasizes in their marketing.

I have not seen a polarizer based display that did not display this issue to some extent, but the degree of severity is highly variable. As production volume increases it looks to me like the manufacturers are getting sloppier and it is getting worse in all of these sets. I know one person who returned a Qualia for other reasons and received one that had the worst color uniformity of any Qualia I have seen. You take your chances with these things. I have not seen a display device yet that was perfect and no two sets of a single model seem to be identical in performance so we must always weigh our options.

And,
I was blown away by it.
But, I come here and start reading about blotches!
OUCH!
If it was a quality control problem with being made in Mexico, can the people here with blotches tell us if their sets were made in Mexico or Pittsburgh?
Thanks for the info guys.

UMR, thanks for the info on what can be corrected by you. It sounds like users are going to need to confirm in advance what a calibrator they might plan to hire can do with this set. What is your opinion of signal processing the set does? Does it have any noise suppresion or edge enhancement that you don't like? Are you able to turn off any signal processing that you think degrades the picture?

It looked like it had pretty typical Sony electronics, but the enhancement could be disabled by reducing sharpness, properly setting DRC and turning off all the optional features. The electronics are not fantastic, but they are not poor either. The color decoder and gray scale are a mess without service mode adjustment.

My KDF-50WE655 does not display any of the aforementioned blotches. The only issue and its a small one for me is that the black level is, as you all know, not totally black but other than that I love my GW4 and am glad I purchased it.

I returned my 50a10 for a plasma and I just noticed there are a bunch of posts on color blotches....How were these TV's transported?? I devloped a blotch from transporting the TV on its side (I believe thats what it came from). Could this be causing the problem?

To give you an idea on the gray scale accuracy. The one I calibrated was typically around +120% Blue, 85% Red and 90% Green. After calibration it was within 98 and 102 of the desired levels of RGB from 20 to 100 IRE. Delta E CMC was about 12 over the range before calibration and within 2 or 3 after calibration.

Color blotches can show up at anytime, but the causes will vary. Polarizer uniformity problems can change with time as the polarizer ages if the display uses organic polarizers. It is a common failure point with polarizer based displays and one TI emphasizes in their marketing.

I have not seen a polarizer based display that did not display this issue to some extent, but the degree of severity is highly variable. As production volume increases it looks to me like the manufacturers are getting sloppier and it is getting worse in all of these sets. I know one person who returned a Qualia for other reasons and received one that had the worst color uniformity of any Qualia I have seen. You take your chances with these things. I have not seen a display device yet that was perfect and no two sets of a single model seem to be identical in performance so we must always weigh our options.
So it sounds like this is a common problem with lcd and dlp tv's. Would we all have been better off sticking with crt rptv? I just went from a crt rptv to the A10 and there are some things I like better with this tv and some things I liked better with my crt. I think I will be very happy with this set as long as it's as dependable as my last set was.

So it sounds like this is a common problem with lcd and dlp tv's. Would we all have been better off sticking with crt rptv? ...

This is not a problem with DLP's. They do not need polarized light. Therefore no polarizer. That is why DLP can have such uniform color. It is a major advantage for DLP along with its ability to track gray scale exceptionally well. CRT has color uniformity issues for different reasons, but it is there as well. Color uniformity on my old CRT is much worse than what I have on my current display.

This is not a problem with DLP's. They do not need polarized light. Therefore no polarizer. That is why DLP can have such uniform color. It is a major advantage for DLP along with its ability to track gray scale exceptionally well. CRT has color uniformity issues for different reasons, but it is there as well. Color uniformity on my old CRT is much worse than what I have on my current display.
Now Im really discouraged, I thought I did a good job of doing my homework and reading this site before I chose this set over a dlp model. I hate having buyers remorse.

Now Im really discouraged, I thought I did a good job of doing my homework and reading this site before I chose this set over a dlp model. I hate having buyers remorse.

People would be smarter if they paid someone like me a few bucks to advise them than to try and sort out the facts from this forum. Most of the people here lack the knowledge, equipment and experience to be able to know what is really going on. It is pretty sad. I regularly save folks money by either recommending less expensive equipment or helping them fix the problems they are having with their current equipment. For some strange reason most people would rather rely on either their own observations or some other less reliable, but zero cost in dollars method.

Why would the A-20 have a 'better' light engine? It is not a high end product either. Is the A-20 any different than the GW III, or GWIV light engines? I do know the A-10 has a slightly lower resolution than the older models, but that shouldn't account for weird color splotches etc., which would be more a QC issue I would think. I WOULD expect the the SXRD to be better. since it is a higher end product. The light engines are not made in Mexico, but I do agree there could be problems in handling, and assembly. I imagine some people are expecting more perfection in these things than is reasonable. You have several MILLION pixels in the light engine. The odds are huge that a few of them are going to be bad. I guess the best practice to follow is don't go LOOKING for problems. If you can't see the issue in normal viewing, then don't worry about it. But if you can see it in normal use, I would not be pleased either. I have only used my new A-10 2 evenings so far..and it hasn't shown any issues yet. You guys are making me paranoid now. :)

If you read back a bit in this thread I'm just pointing this issue out and that it's really a non-issue unless you are super picky. So, I agree that you should just enjoy your A10 unless it's so bad that you can't stand it. But I wouldn't bother with an exchange. Go buy a flat panel if you want to get closer to perfection.

If you read back a bit in this thread I'm just pointing this issue out and that it's really a non-issue unless you are super picky. So, I agree that you should just enjoy your A10 unless it's so bad that you can't stand it. But I wouldn't bother with an exchange. Go buy a flat panel if you want to get closer to perfection.

Flat planels have color uniformity problems as well. They are no closer to perfection than anything else. It just depends on your tolerance for various problems along with your application limitations.

Flat planels have color uniformity problems as well. They are no closer to perfection than anything else. It just depends on your tolerance for various problems along with your application limitations.
what is your choice, what do you own?

People would be smarter if they paid someone like me a few bucks to advise them than to try and sort out the facts from this forum. Most of the people here lack the knowledge, equipment and experience to be able to know what is really going on. It is pretty sad. I regularly save folks money by either recommending less expensive equipment or helping them fix the problems they are having with their current equipment. For some strange reason most people would rather rely on either their own observations or some other less reliable, but zero cost in dollars method.

So would you say that the Sony A10 is a bad buy? Would you recommend it? What is your overall impression of the Sony A10 both before and after calibration? I recently purchased this set on Sept. 6 and was supposed to have it the 10th, then they said their shipment didn't come in and that I would be able to get it tomorrow, but now they're telling me Wednesday. I've been doing some research the past few years and been saving money and I decided that this set had all the features I was looking for and was right in my price range. Now I'm starting to wonder if I should go with something else or stick with the A10.

Flat planels have color uniformity problems as well. They are no closer to perfection than anything else. It just depends on your tolerance for various problems along with your application limitations.

Agreed, but geometry and convergence are perfect.

Now Im really discouraged, I thought I did a good job of doing my homework and reading this site before I chose this set over a dlp model. I hate having buyers remorse.

You shouldn't feel bad about your purchase, it's a great set even with its little quirks. With DLP, you would trade off the color uniformity for added grain and artifacting in most sets, as well as the potential "rainbow" issue which is in my opinion far worse than any of 3LCD's drawbacks.

Someone in another thread said it best, "You have to trust your own eyes." Just make sure when you're browsing around that you have the store show different types on content so you can get a more accurate look at what you'll be bringing home.

Kai

Is it possible to access the video inputs of the a10 directly (via the remote) instead of cycling through the different inputs, when switching from one input to another?

I would like to program macros on my (universal) remote that allow me e.g. to switch to the input to which my dvd player is connected or to the one to which the STB is connected directly.

Is there a way to do this? I know it's easy to do this using the switching capabilites of an AVR, but I would like to utilize the inputs of the TV to avoid any kind of signal loss.

Is it possible to access the video inputs of the a10 directly (via the remote) instead of cycling through the different inputs, when switching from one input to another?

I would like to program macros on my (universal) remote that allow me e.g. to switch to the input to which my dvd player is connected or to the one to which the STB is connected directly.

Is there a way to do this? I know it's easy to do this using the switching capabilites of an AVR, but I would like to utilize the inputs of the TV to avoid any kind of signal loss.

I think it depends on what remote you have. I use a Harmony 659 web programmable remote. During setup I learned that you can program all of the inputs as separate (ie - discrete) buttons, getting around the cycling thru problem.

So, theoretically the answer is yes, but it depends on your remote.

i'm using powerstrip with no problems. i'm using a custom res of 1200x666 @ 16:9 and it works perfectly. it corrects the overscan on gives a 1:1 pixel mapping from what i see.

what have you guys been doing to adjust you set to work well with your pc?

Can you PM me the details of your custom PS resolution? I'd like to try it out.

People would be smarter if they paid someone like me a few bucks to advise them than to try and sort out the facts from this forum. Most of the people here lack the knowledge, equipment and experience to be able to know what is really going on. It is pretty sad. I regularly save folks money by either recommending less expensive equipment or helping them fix the problems they are having with their current equipment. For some strange reason most people would rather rely on either their own observations or some other less reliable, but zero cost in dollars method.

hmmm......while we're advertising our services, people would be smarter if they paid someone like ME to manage their money (actually, they wouldn't have to pay, since my money comes direct from the life insurance companies). Surely the fact that most people lack the knowledge is why we're here.....to LEARN, or at least try to. Now that may be a sad concept to you, but it's how the human race has progressed thus far. Maybe you don't mean to sound so condescending, but you just come off that way, and believe me, I've forgotten more about financial planning than you will ever know. You see....we're all experts in one field and learners in another.

Is it possible to access the video inputs of the a10 directly (via the remote) instead of cycling through the different inputs, when switching from one input to another?

I would like to program macros on my (universal) remote that allow me e.g. to switch to the input to which my dvd player is connected or to the one to which the STB is connected directly.

Is there a way to do this? I know it's easy to do this using the switching capabilites of an AVR, but I would like to utilize the inputs of the TV to avoid any kind of signal loss.

I was able to find discretes for my Home Theater Master MX-700 that give me direct access to the inputs. So, depending on your remote, you may be in luck. Check out www.remotecentral.com. There's a files section in which you can find various files for different brands and models of remotes.


Mitch

hmmm......while we're advertising our services, people would be smarter if they paid someone like ME to manage their money (actually, they wouldn't have to pay, since my money comes direct from the life insurance companies). Surely the fact that most people lack the knowledge is why we're here.....to LEARN, or at least try to. Now that may be a sad concept to you, but it's how the human race has progressed thus far. Maybe you don't mean to sound so condescending, but you just come off that way, and believe me, I've forgotten more about financial planning than you will ever know. You see....we're all experts in one field and learners in another.

You might be surprised to learn what I know about financial planning, but that is way off topic. I have given serious amounts of free advice on this forum and to others who have contacted me. Unlike some financial types who hide their fees. I am very upfront about it.

A large percentage of my 5,000 posts have been in the vain of helping others.

A large percentage of my 5,000 posts have been in the vain of helping others.


Umm...I dont know if you were being funny or just typing fast, but this statement cracked me up! :D There is just so many ways of taking it.

in the vein = along the lines

in the vain = as, in vain (trying but falling on deaf ears)

in the vain = where financial analysts tend to withdrawl from.

Sorry to go OT, perhaps its bed-time!

Most LCD RPTVs have it to some degree. To get one that is "perfect" would be a miracle.

I have that perfect 50a10 :D

For those of you wondering if the blotches will suddenly appear--they will. I have had my set for about one month and the blotch in the center of the screen just appeared about one week ago.

Mine is "greenish" in color and about 11/2-2" in diameter. Very annoying to say the least.

My problem is, I bought from an online dealer. No way to get a new set unless Sony says yes.

Can this problem be repaired?

Thanks, Brad

Re: Color blotches - my experience

My 42a10 was fine for a few days - then it developed a blue blotch that was ~2inches by 1inch and very noticable on black/dark pitutres - looking closely it was vibrating - My deduction was this was dirt inside the unit and the air movement inside the set made it move around.

I decided not to return to CC - since everything else was great so I set up a service call.
The service engineers came around and could not fix - they took te set to their store to fix and I found out they needed to order a part from sony to enable them to clean the unit in their "clean room".

This fixed the color blotch so it was dirt inside the unit (not sure if dirt was inside the ligtht engine or between the engine and screen.

Unfortunately the service added a new piece of dirt on the screen AND seriously misaligned the piture - very noticable (this was Sony approved repair people).

They came back out and had to take the set back to their store for a few more days to fix.
Seems alignment of screen is al down to how much you tigthen the screws holding the micro display unit.

Any after second clean and service it came back as good as new.

My issue might not be same the issue others are seeing - but it sounds the same and "cleaning" fixed it

tim

Is it possible to access the video inputs of the a10 directly (via the remote) instead of cycling through the different inputs, when switching from one input to another?

I would like to program macros on my (universal) remote that allow me e.g. to switch to the input to which my dvd player is connected or to the one to which the STB is connected directly.

Is there a way to do this? I know it's easy to do this using the switching capabilites of an AVR, but I would like to utilize the inputs of the TV to avoid any kind of signal loss.

Great question, but can this somehow be done with the remote that comes with the A10???

People would be smarter if they paid someone like me a few bucks to advise them than to try and sort out the facts from this forum. Most of the people here lack the knowledge, equipment and experience to be able to know what is really going on. It is pretty sad. I regularly save folks money by either recommending less expensive equipment or helping them fix the problems they are having with their current equipment. For some strange reason most people would rather rely on either their own observations or some other less reliable, but zero cost in dollars method.


LOL
I truly wonder about people that continuously refer to themselves in the 3rd person as you do!
As for your advice, I think I will give you a Canadian toonie to **** off and leave this site!

Re: Color blotches - my experience

My 42a10 was fine for a few days - then it developed a blue blotch that was ~2inches by 1inch and very noticable on black/dark pitutres - looking closely it was vibrating - My deduction was this was dirt inside the unit and the air movement inside the set made it move around.

I decided not to return to CC - since everything else was great so I set up a service call.
The service engineers came around and could not fix - they took te set to their store to fix and I found out they needed to order a part from sony to enable them to clean the unit in their "clean room".

This fixed the color blotch so it was dirt inside the unit (not sure if dirt was inside the ligtht engine or between the engine and screen.

Unfortunately the service added a new piece of dirt on the screen AND seriously misaligned the piture - very noticable (this was Sony approved repair people).

They came back out and had to take the set back to their store for a few more days to fix.
Seems alignment of screen is al down to how much you tigthen the screws holding the micro display unit.

Any after second clean and service it came back as good as new.

My issue might not be same the issue others are seeing - but it sounds the same and "cleaning" fixed it

tim

That's nice to know, that they were able to alleviate the problem. I'll give them a call myself, and see if they can do anything about it. I was actually changing a DVD this evening, and noticed a quarter inch piece of dirt that looks like its inside the screen.

Boy, that Sony QA. :rolleyes:

Kai

Great question, but can this somehow be done with the remote that comes with the A10???

Good luck... they forgot to enter in the codes for the remote so that it can be used with other devices (even their own components!). I'm surprised at this point that it even controls the TV.

Kai

Now Im really discouraged, I thought I did a good job of doing my homework and reading this site before I chose this set over a dlp model. I hate having buyers remorse.

As a person who already tried one....buy a DLP and you will REALLY have buyers remorse. The A-10 I have now is so far superior to the Samsung HLP-5063W I tried, and returned a year ago, that it's hard to even describe. That Samsung's overall PQ was a joke compared to the A-10. The one and only area that the Sammy did better was in rendering true blacks.

Man, I take delivery of my "second" 42A10 tomorrow. (first had lit pixels and shut off randomly for some reason)

Now I'm really nervous. love the picture though...but I have no service agreement. 500 bucks for one is a bit steep at best buy...

umr...you did tell me that you thought that in the 42inch arena...the a10 was prob best in its class versus other 42inch rptv...do you take that back?

As for Tecumseh, ...umr is a HUGE asset to this community...You should sit back and shut up.

i'm happy with mine. but it may also be the beer talking. :)

Now I'm really nervous. love the picture though...but I have no service agreement. 500 bucks for one is a bit steep at best buy...
You can get a service plan direct from SonyStyle.com (http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/eCS/Store/en/-/USD/EW_ViewExtendedWarranty-Detail?CategoryName=CE_TV), provided you purchased your TV from an authorized Sony dealer (http://www.sonystyle.com/intershoproot/eCS/Store/en/lc/authorized_dealers/).

Sony's service plans go through ServiceNet, and they are usually much cheaper than the big retail chains. However, they definitely do not cover bulb failure (if that's a big issure for you).

Here are the prices:
2 Years: $64.99
3 Years: $149.99
4 Years: $199.99
5 Years: $279.99

Re: Color blotches - my experience

My 42a10 was fine for a few days - then it developed a blue blotch that was ~2inches by 1inch and very noticable on black/dark pitutres - looking closely it was vibrating - My deduction was this was dirt inside the unit and the air movement inside the set made it move around.

I decided not to return to CC - since everything else was great so I set up a service call.
The service engineers came around and could not fix - they took te set to their store to fix and I found out they needed to order a part from sony to enable them to clean the unit in their "clean room".

This fixed the color blotch so it was dirt inside the unit (not sure if dirt was inside the ligtht engine or between the engine and screen.

Unfortunately the service added a new piece of dirt on the screen AND seriously misaligned the piture - very noticable (this was Sony approved repair people).

They came back out and had to take the set back to their store for a few more days to fix.
Seems alignment of screen is al down to how much you tigthen the screws holding the micro display unit.

Any after second clean and service it came back as good as new.

My issue might not be same the issue others are seeing - but it sounds the same and "cleaning" fixed it

tim

Tim,
Thanks for that illuminating post!

It seems that more than ever, buying the Sony Style extended warranty is a great idea!

It is a good thing to hear that with patience the A-10 blotch problem can be fixed!

Man, I take delivery of my "second" 42A10 tomorrow. (first had lit pixels and shut off randomly for some reason)

Now I'm really nervous. love the picture though...but I have no service agreement. 500 bucks for one is a bit steep at best buy...

umr...you did tell me that you thought that in the 42inch arena...the a10 was prob best in its class versus other 42inch rptv...do you take that back?

As for Tecumseh, ...umr is a HUGE asset to this community...You should sit back and shut up.

Call SonyStyle and get your extended Warranty from Sony! Something like 69$ for two years - no bulb warranty past the first year, but for the difference price...

Just an FYI

If you are new to the A10 or trying to determine if you should get one, besides all the comments with all the problems, this is what the poll asking AVSers their satisfaction level indicates:

Extremely Pleased 6 24.00%
Very Pleased 12 48.00%
Somewhat Pleased 3 12.00%
Somewhat Disappointed 1 4.00%
Very/Extremely Disappointed 0 0%
I don't own a Sony 3 12.00%

I absolutely love the set except for the blotch problem. I am hoping that the new set that comes will not have this issue. I already planned on buying the warranty so if a blotch were to appear in 4 years, the set gets fixed/replaced.

Nick

Man, I take delivery of my "second" 42A10 tomorrow. (first had lit pixels and shut off randomly for some reason)
...
umr...you did tell me that you thought that in the 42inch arena...the a10 was prob best in its class versus other 42inch rptv...do you take that back?
...

No.

:rolleyes:
umr has contributed a LOT to this forum (all of it, not just this thread) and is a GREAT ASSET while all you have contributed are a few dumb-ass remarks here and there every few days (many of which have been offensive enough to necessitate the mods editing or removing them)! Personally, I'd rather that you **** off and leave this site!

I have never had a post removed by any mod!
That said, I do post the odd dumb-ass remark or two.

As for Tecumseh, ...umr is a HUGE asset to this community...You should sit back and shut up.

He may be a huge asset to the community but i am not the only one who gets sick of his elevated sense of self-importance. Don't forget that he makes money from people on this site. Sure, you get a bunch of great info from the guy but he also advertises his services on a regular basis.

Sure, you get a bunch of great info from the guy but he also advertises his services on a regular basis.

There's nothing wrong with that. The guy is just trying to make a living like everyone else.

There's nothing wrong with that. The guy is just trying to make a living like everyone else.

Agreed, umr is one of the intelligent folks here who is very knowledgeable about various displays and calibration. If he wants to make money off of the forum, fine. Tecumseh, there is an ignore feature on this forum. If you don't like someones posts, ignore them.

Chris

Agreed, umr is one of the intelligent folks here who is very knowledgeable about various displays and calibration. If he wants to make money off of the forum, fine. Tecumseh, there is an ignore feature on this forum. If you don't like someones posts, ignore them.

Chris

True,
Sorry for my rant, just in a foul mood last nite!

Later
Tec

You can get a service plan direct from SonyStyle.com (http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/eCS/Store/en/-/USD/EW_ViewExtendedWarranty-Detail?CategoryName=CE_TV), provided you purchased your TV from an authorized Sony dealer (http://www.sonystyle.com/intershoproot/eCS/Store/en/lc/authorized_dealers/).

Sony's service plans go through ServiceNet, and they are usually much cheaper than the big retail chains. However, they definitely do not cover bulb failure (if that's a big issure for you).

Here are the prices:
2 Years: $64.99
3 Years: $149.99
4 Years: $199.99
5 Years: $279.99


Some of the Repair Master warranties are even cheaper.

Link (http://www.tvauthority.com/Subpages/product.asp?dept=17&cat=&prod=153)
Link2 (http://www.tvauthority.com/Subpages/product.asp?dept=17&cat=&prod=3421)

I appreciate that link about the warranties.

I just got off the phone with Sony and they will be sending a tech out this week to evaluate my problem with the greeen blotch.

Certainly will be buying an extended warranty for this TV. Do you know if "Repair Master" warranty covers bulbs or remote controls?

Update: Repair Master responded that their warranty does not cover bulb replacement.

Thanks, Brad

I'd check to see if Sony would honor that RepairMaster Warranty before buying it.

Honestly, I'd rather just deal directly with the manufacturer. If there's a problem with the set, who better than them to make a diagnosis?

I'd check to see if Sony would honor that RepairMaster Warranty before buying it.

Honestly, I'd rather just deal directly with the manufacturer. If there's a problem with the set, who better than them to make a diagnosis?

Nothing for Sony to honor. It's a totally different company. I'm not saying one is better or one is worse, just letting others know they have some options if they decide not to buy thru Sony.

Just wanted to report that I was on the fence regarding which TV to buy and last week pulled the trigger on the E42A10. While the picture was somewhat better on the Panasonic 37PX50U and Sony 34XBR960, the larger size screen and lower price (1599), more than made up for it. Couldn't be happier with the set thus far. Good hunting!

I hadn't heard the thing about having to do an Avia calibration, but I can tell you with an uncommon amount of confidence and certainty that you must be careful with having an ISF calibration guy come out.

At the risk of becoming annoyingly repetitive in this forum, these A10s have a COMPLETELY different (or substantially different at the very least) service menu with which your ISF calibrator would adjust your set - completely different from prior Grand Wega models of this set. I'm told that prior Grand Wega models indeed had very similar service menus to each of their predecessors (GW I, GW II, III and IV, all similar menus), so it's not unreasonable for a calibrator to assure you they can adjust your GW V, A10 model, only to find when they get there that it's a mystery to them. Waste of your and their time . . . and with the price of gas these days . . .

My ISF calibrator, a good one, made this honest mistake, and now he's doing his damndest to come up with literature that explains what to do with these sets. It's not easy to get this info because, apparently, Sony is not making it widely available for fear people will jack up their sets by trying to adjust on their own (these types clearly aren't AVSforum members, no doubt!).

Just be abundantly and repetitively clear with any ISF guy you might contact that the A10s are completely different beasts from GWs I through IV and will require them to get - somehow - literature that will explain the new menus and all the new acronyms and abbreviations, etc.

The ISF guy I have been in contact with is Gregg Loewen. I sent him a copy of this post and this is what he wrote back,
Hi
The new sonys have basically the same menu structure as last years plasma line. Not a biggie.

Regards



Gregg

I'm pretty sure I am going the pull the string and go for it.

We bought a 42-A10 during the first weekend of the Best Buy Ad. Price Matched at Sears thinking we would get better service in the long run...

Sears in home delivery was cheaper and included set up as well...

Now I am wondering if Sears was a mistake...

They have now delayed our delivery three times, we bought the TV almost three weeks ago and the third delivery delay had it coming on Monday. Now they have delayed that date to the 23rd!

Anyone else have an issue with Sears delivering on A-10's or are they just giving us the run around because of the price match?

This seems like an extreme delay...

I have been patient up to this point but now I am beginning to get a bit peeved.

Anyone have a number where I can call and speak with a real live manager at Sears? The clones that call about our delays have no information beyond the new date that it "might" be delivered.

Scott
Sony DA4ES
B&K Reference 4430
Sony CX985 400 disc DVD
Sony CX450 400 disc CD x 2
Definitive Technology BP30 Mains Bi-Amped
Definitive Technology ProTower400 Center
Definitive Technology BPX Surrounds
SVS 25-31 PC+
Cerwin Vega LW10 Surround sub
Sony Grand Wega 42 A-10
Panamax 5100
Sony VCR
XBOX
Hughes DirectTv Tivo

I just took delivery of my 50 a10 today and i was wondering about a blotch of black near the side inputs of the television. it's semi circular and extends approx. 1 1/2 inches in. it's barely noticeable except on solid backgrounds, but still, i'd like it to go away or know that it's a common occurance.

I just took delivery of my 50 a10 today and i was wondering about a blotch of black near the side inputs of the television. it's semi circular and extends approx. 1 1/2 inches in. it's barely noticeable except on solid backgrounds, but still, i'd like it to go away or know that it's a common occurance.

Scroll up and look at recent posts... it seems to be a somewhat common problem albeit repairable according to one member.

Call your dealer or Sony Service...
Scott
Sony DA4ES
B&K Reference 4430
Sony CX985 400 disc DVD
Sony CX450 400 disc CD x 2
Definitive Technology BP30 Mains Bi-Amped
Definitive Technology ProTower400 Center
Definitive Technology BPX Surrounds
SVS 25-31 PC+
Cerwin Vega LW10 Surround sub
Sony Grand Wega 42 A-10
Panamax 5100
Sony VCR
XBOX
Hughes DirectTv Tivo

I was able to find discretes for my Home Theater Master MX-700 that give me direct access to the inputs. So, depending on your remote, you may be in luck. Check out www.remotecentral.com. There's a files section in which you can find various files for different brands and models of remotes.


Mitch

I have a MX-500, which unfortunately doesn't allow programming of discrete codes directly.

I found a work around in programming macros that select the external input channels via the Wega Gate option. This isn't really a great way, since it depends on the number of active inputs, e.g. if I activate at some stage inputs that are currently inactive, I will need to re-program the macros. But it's better than nothing.

Regretfully I have decided to return my Sony A10. My eyes can't seem to handle this type of TV :mad: . I have had problems with every HDTV I've tried over the years. I was hoping this new Sony model would work, but it doesn't. I may give Plasma a try again or just wait it out longer. I'm heading back to the eye doctor to see what's up with HDTV & my Eyes. :(

We bought a 42-A10 during the first weekend of the Best Buy Ad. Price Matched at Sears thinking we would get better service in the long run...

Sears in home delivery was cheaper and included set up as well...

Now I am wondering if Sears was a mistake...

They have now delayed our delivery three times, we bought the TV almost three weeks ago and the third delivery delay had it coming on Monday. Now they have delayed that date to the 23rd!

Anyone else have an issue with Sears delivering on A-10's or are they just giving us the run around because of the price match?

This seems like an extreme delay...

I have been patient up to this point but now I am beginning to get a bit peeved.

Anyone have a number where I can call and speak with a real live manager at Sears? The clones that call about our delays have no information beyond the new date that it "might" be delivered.

Scott
Sony DA4ES
B&K Reference 4430
Sony CX985 400 disc DVD
Sony CX450 400 disc CD x 2
Definitive Technology BP30 Mains Bi-Amped
Definitive Technology ProTower400 Center
Definitive Technology BPX Surrounds
SVS 25-31 PC+
Cerwin Vega LW10 Surround sub
Sony Grand Wega 42 A-10
Panamax 5100
Sony VCR
XBOX
Hughes DirectTv Tivo

I too was supposed to have the tv no later than the 10th of Sept. Then was told it would be the 17th. Now they are saying it will be this Wed. or Thurs. but I did not purchase this set from sears, I got it at Nebraska Furniture Mart. I too am becoming really annoyed but I don't think this is the fault of the store, but with sony themselves. I am also looking to get the Onkyo HT-S780 and called Nebraska furniture mart to see if they had this. I mentioned my ordeal with my tv to the salesman on the phone and out of the blue he asked "Is it a Sony?" I told him it was and he said that sony is notorious for having a hard time getting their shipments to the stores on time. So it sounds more like Sony is having a hard time getting these sets to the stores.

I know this is kind of off topic but does anyone have the Onkyo HT-S780? Is this a good HTIB? It seems to have more input options available than I have seen with others and was just curious what others thought of this HTIB. Thanks in advance!

... So it sounds more like Sony is having a hard time getting these sets to the stores...

More than likely the BB (and subsequent price matching by the competition) price from a couple of weeks ago completely drained the supply.

More than likely the BB (and subsequent price matching by the competition) price from a couple of weeks ago completely drained the supply.

Both sizes of A-10 are hard to get around Indy too. They are selling FAST. That is why I am suprised I could get one at a local Sam's Club..they usually sell last year's model.

More than likely the BB (and subsequent price matching by the competition) price from a couple of weeks ago completely drained the supply.

Thats what I'm starting to think as well. I think that the way these sets have been selling that Sony themselves are surprised even though this set was designed to be a nice budget priced set.

Regretfully I have decided to return my Sony A10. My eyes can't seem to handle this type of TV :mad: . I have had problems with every HDTV I've tried over the years. I was hoping this new Sony model would work, but it doesn't. I may give Plasma a try again or just wait it out longer. I'm heading back to the eye doctor to see what's up with HDTV & my Eyes. :(

I had eye strain with a DLP last year, but no problems with other types of HDTV's. How close are you sitting to your TV, and what size is it? You might try backing the brightness down a bit, and making sure there is some lighting in your viewing area. I can say that I wouldn't want to sit any closer than about 9 feet to my 50 inch A-10, in spite of 'experts' suggesting 6.5 feet or so.

AlanBuck, I'm about 7-8 ft away from the 42".

Regretfully I have decided to return my Sony A10. My eyes can't seem to handle this type of TV :mad: . I have had problems with every HDTV I've tried over the years. I was hoping this new Sony model would work, but it doesn't. I may give Plasma a try again or just wait it out longer. I'm heading back to the eye doctor to see what's up with HDTV & my Eyes. :(

I too had eye-strain the first few days of watching the set. Now that I have it tweaked, and have had it for 4 weeks, I get no eye-strain (or I am used to it).

AlanBuck, I'm about 7-8 ft away from the 42".

8 feet is better. I found 7 feet to be a bit too close. Try these general picture settings for minimal eye strain:

Iris - 1 or Min
Picture - 63 or just a bit lower
Brightness - 50 or a bit lower
Advanced Iris - Low

You do lose some 'pop' in the image with these settings, but I find that the image looks more defined and doesn't cause any eye fatigue.

FFFred,

Thanks for the post about the bulb meter. I have 151 hours in 29 days. That is a rate of 1900 hours/year...a bit more than I thought it would be. I am thinking the bulb will last only about 3 years at this rate!

FFFred,

Thanks for the post about the bulb meter. I have 151 hours in 29 days. That is a rate of 1900 hours/year...a bit more than I though it would be. I am thinking the bulb will last only about 3 years at this rate!

I would feel pretty darn good if you got 3 years out of a bulb. I know that a lot of people only got around a year out of their bulbs with the panny lcd's!

8 feet is better. I found 7 feet to be a bit too close. Try these general picture settings for minimal eye strain:

Iris - 1 or Min
Picture - 63 or just a bit lower
Brightness - 50 or a bit lower
Advanced Iris - Low

You do lose some 'pop' in the image with these settings, but I find that the image looks more defined and doesn't cause any eye fatigue.

Man, can you even see your set with those settings?! I've lowered contrast on these sets down to 75 at the store and they looked pretty dark and washed out.. lotsa lost detail. I guess they really do just look a lot better at home .....

Man, can you even see your set with those settings?! I've lowered contrast on these sets down to 75 at the store and they looked pretty dark and washed out.. lotsa lost detail. I guess they really do just look a lot better at home .....
They will look that way in the store. That's why you always see them with the contrast maxed (torch mode). All that high fluorescent lighting in the store kills contrast.

I have low-level ambient lighting in my living room and the settings I provided above work really well. They are just a starting point and you can then adjust to your own living enviroment or tastes.

norm3,

For your eyes, the 42" just may be too big at the distance your are viewing. I know a lot of people view larger sets at that distance, but I cannot. If too big/too close, I cannot see the whole screen without a lot of eye movement. I'm continually looking all over in order to take in the whole picture. I had a 52" at one time. At first it looked impressive. But I kept increasing my viewing distance till I ran out of room.

I read somewhere that this continual eye movement could cause eye strain, which in turn could lead to headaches. Looking at a set for a short time in a store is different than sitting down at home & watching for a long period. If you can, perhaps you can temporarily sit back & watch your 42" at 10' or 12'. See if this make a difference. You may find you need a 32" or 37" set for your home. I have a friend with a 10 foot front projector and he likes to sit about 8 feet from the screen. No way I could do that.

Mike

Whats the verdict on fan noise with the 50A10? Mine is rather loud in High Altitude (> 5,000') mode and can be heard easily from 12' away with volume down low but is much quieter if turn off that setting.
I cant even hear my fan. I have to put my ear to the back of the set to hear it. What setting are you talking about?

I just purchased the 50" and I am looking for settings that some of you may be using with the advanced settings and iris settings as I don't get much from it by reading the manual. I really don't know how the iris affects the picture if it is low or high. Could someone explain how some of these settings work? Also, watching sin city, the whites look rather pinkish and I can't seem to get rid of it, any ideas? I have tried doing a quick browse through this thread, but it is quite huge to read through everything. Please post some tips on what you did that improved pq or if you can direct to where in this thread does everyone start talking about some settings, thanks

Whats the verdict on fan noise with the 50A10? Mine is rather loud in High Altitude (> 5,000') mode and can be heard easily from 12' away with volume down low but is much quieter if turn off that setting.

I'm not at high altitude, but I hear the fan in the morning at late at night - in other words when the volume is pretty low and the house is pretty quiet. It annoys me at times - especially since I can hear it from about 20 feet away.

BTW, I was wondering what the "high altitude" setting was for. I guess it's to speed up the fan to make up for the lower air pressure.


Mitch

I just purchased the 50" and I am looking for settings that some of you may be using with the advanced settings and iris settings as I don't get much from it by reading the manual. I really don't know how the iris affects the picture if it is low or high. Could someone explain how some of these settings work? Also, watching sin city, the whites look rather pinkish and I can't seem to get rid of it, any ideas? I have tried doing a quick browse through this thread, but it is quite huge to read through everything. Please post some tips on what you did that improved pq or if you can direct to where in this thread does everyone start talking about some settings, thanks
I was having trouble with faces looking really pinkish. Somebody here suggested lowering the color and changing the hue to g2 and it really helped.

I did do that, but the only way I can minimize a bit is by changing the color temp to cool because neutral makes it look pink. Faces are

I just purchased the 50" and I am looking for settings that some of you may be using with the advanced settings and iris settings as I don't get much from it by reading the manual. I really don't know how the iris affects the picture if it is low or high. Could someone explain how some of these settings work? Also, watching sin city, the whites look rather pinkish and I can't seem to get rid of it, any ideas? I have tried doing a quick browse through this thread, but it is quite huge to read through everything. Please post some tips on what you did that improved pq or if you can direct to where in this thread does everyone start talking about some settings, thanks

1.) The Advanced Iris automatically opens and closes depending on the contrast at any given moment. It's sort of like a dynamic contrast ratio control to get deeper looking blacks. The 'Low' setting works best because it doesn't make aggressive changes like the Medium and High settings do. The downside is that the contrast ratio is smaller resulting in more grayish looking blacks and less shadow detail. Experiement with it and see how you like it. I prefer to just keep it on Low.

2.) To get rid of the reddish/pinkish whites you need to set the Clear White setting to Low or High. Setting the Color Temp to Neutral or Cool will also help.


Some general settings for DVDs:

Iris - 1 (will vary on room lighting)
Picture - 63
Brightness - 51 (will vary on player)
Color - 38
Hue - 0
Sharpness - start at 25 and go higher for more detail; keep it under 45
Color Temp - Neutral

Black Corrector - Leave this OFF or shadow detail will suffer and black crush will set in
Advanced Iris - Low is recommended
Gamma - Low
Clear White - Off (Low for reduced redness)
Live Color - Off (On enhances greens and blues)

Was there any conclusions to the blotch issue that was discussed?

so i'm a newb.
got the 50a10
comcast is coming tuesday to hook up hd and digital cable with dvr
what do i need to have purchased to start enjoying my tv to the fullest? i have a feeling comcast isn't supplying me with a plethora of cables to hook it all up with.
so far i've bought
1. tv
2. stand

what else should i get?

Was there any conclusions to the blotch issue that was discussed?
Someone mentioned that cleaning the unit fixed it. But this has nothing to do with the non-uniformity issues some people (including myself) have experienced.

is there a reason to buy an upconverting dvd player for this set?

i guess it comes down to whether or not the upconversion of the set it better than that of an upconverting dvd player...am i wrong?

bottom line: am i better off using either an 480i/480p dvd player and let the set upconvert to its native resolution or buy an upconverting set that upconverts to 720p via hdmi?

any advice/experience?

Monday night football looks unbelievable in HD on the 42A10!!!! No visible motion blurs. I got mine 42A10 for $1599, which was a great incentive...but I would have paid a few hundred more. The first day I got it i watched the US Open (tennis) ...unbelievable....the color is amazing..and blacks can be adjusted to be great too!

If you read the cnet review of this set they offer some settings that got the best results. They used professional calibrating equipment as well as the AVIA and DVE DVD's and they reported that the following settings got them the closest to the kalvin scale or whatever it's called and produced the most accurate color and grayscale.

Color Temp: Warm II

Blk Correction: Low

Gamma: Low

Clear White: Off

Live Color: Off

Here is a paragraph from CNET's review.

"As we mentioned in Features, there are a couple of picture-affecting tweaks that can really harm image quality, but happily, you can turn them off. Let's start with Live Color, which makes the already atrocious color decoding even worse. The Clear White feature looked as though it simply made the grayscale bluer as you went up the scale from off to high; we recommend you set both of these features to off. We noted that among the four available choices for Gamma, the Low setting produced the most accurate gamma curve. The Black Corrector feature also affects gamma, and the Low setting again seemed to yield the best results."

They also mentioned seeing faint blue and red blotches appearing in bright white material in some sections of the screen. This may be related to the "blotches" that a lot of you are experiencing.

I thought the "live color" feature corrected the red push, at least it did on the xs models. Is this a different feature on the A10's?

is there a reason to buy an upconverting dvd player for this set?

i guess it comes down to whether or not the upconversion of the set it better than that of an upconverting dvd player...am i wrong?

bottom line: am i better off using either an 480i/480p dvd player and let the set upconvert to its native resolution or buy an upconverting set that upconverts to 720p via hdmi?

any advice/experience?

I have not done a side-by-side comparison, but my 3-ish year old Toshiba 480i DVD player looks great on the 50A10. I think unless you are willing to drop a few hundred dollars, it's not worth getting a progressive scan player and even if you are willing to spend some money, I would wonder if it's worth getting one at this time. Instead, I would wait and see what happens on the HD DVD/Blu Ray scene over the next couple of years.

But, that's just cheap-butt me speaking. :) YMMV.


Mitch

[QUOTE=Here is a paragraph from CNET's review.
They also mentioned seeing faint blue and red blotches appearing in bright white material in some sections of the screen. This may be related to the "blotches" that a lot of you are experiencing.[/QUOTE]


1. How bad are these blotches (is this a game breaker)?
2. Any idea what percentage of production has them?
3. Does Sony know what causes them and has Sony changed their manufacturing/QC procudures to prevent them?

I'm getting very close to purchasing the E50A10, but am worried about the occurrence of these blotches.
Also, I want to purchase the TV at a local store.....what is the best price I should be able to negotiate?

Thanks

Well I've gotten my second 42a10, and this one has a ded pixel right in the center, blah...I can't see it from normal viewing distance so I guess I'm cool.

I prob should have tried to "unstick" the stuck pixel on the other one before I sent it back. Have any of you had any luck with this? You know the mepg 4 clip that rapidly changes colors that some were using on the psp to unstick their lit pixels...anyone ever try it on a rptv?

other than that....good set so far.

1. How bad are these blotches (is this a game breaker)?
2. Any idea what percentage of production has them?
3. Does Sony know what causes them and has Sony changed their manufacturing/QC procudures to prevent them?

I'm getting very close to purchasing the E50A10, but am worried about the occurrence of these blotches.
Also, I want to purchase the TV at a local store.....what is the best price I should be able to negotiate?

Thanks

1) The "blotch" was a "deal breaker" for me, I couldn't stand it, buy YMMV.

2) Can't say for sure what percentage have the problem since we at the AVSFourm are a relatively small percentage of the total consumer base, but several forum members have noted this issue as reading thru this thread will show you.

3) My experience with Sony, and other large manufacturers, is that even if the know what causes the issue, they likely won't do anything to resolve it. Even if they do know what causes it, the fix will likely be the next year model. Back in the GWIII series sony had issues with the bulb, it took them a LONG time to ackowledge the issue, and they only replaced the bulbs for people who made a really loud stink about it. Most consumers will likely live with the issue, and just assume it is a limitation of the technology, this adds to the lack of motivation for Sony to address it officially as a "flaw".

The 50A10 is a gorqeous set with the exception of this issue, if you can get one that doesn't have it, or can live with it if it does, I think you will love the set. The black levels are definitely better than the GWIV that I swithced back to, but my GWIV has no stuck/dead pixels, and no blotches which I find makes me happier than the improved black level of the GWV series. I also like the fact that more information is available in regards to "self tweaking" of the service menu.

Again, you might not get a set with the issues discussed here, if you don't I'm sure you will love it. I would defintely recommend purchasing the set from a brick and mortor store with a good return/exchange policy, and if possible one that offeres ISF calibration as an option. Even if you pay a little more or even MSRP for the set if the calibration is included your still getting a fair deal. In addition they likely will be more flexible with finding a set that doesn't display the issues we have discussed.

Half

They will look that way in the store. That's why you always see them with the contrast maxed (torch mode). All that high fluorescent lighting in the store kills contrast.

I have low-level ambient lighting in my living room and the settings I provided above work really well. They are just a starting point and you can then adjust to your own living enviroment or tastes.

I have found that the TV looks best on the VIVID mode in a bright room, and much better using custom at nite. I will post my settings soon.

I have not done a side-by-side comparison, but my 3-ish year old Toshiba 480i DVD player looks great on the 50A10. I think unless you are willing to drop a few hundred dollars, it's not worth getting a progressive scan player and even if you are willing to spend some money, I would wonder if it's worth getting one at this time. Instead, I would wait and see what happens on the HD DVD/Blu Ray scene over the next couple of years.

But, that's just cheap-butt me speaking. :) YMMV.


Mitch

Strangely my Sony DVD player gives a sharper, and better picture on the A-10 using the non-progressive mode. I watched 'Beyond the Sea' on it last nite, and it looked about 80% as good as the better HD programs. The PQ looks less defined when using progressive scan.

I thought the "live color" feature corrected the red push, at least it did on the xs models. Is this a different feature on the A10's?

It's just a color enhancement feature. Red push is only fixable via the service menu.

The 50A10 is a gorqeous set with the exception of this issue, if you can get one that doesn't have it, or can live with it if it does, I think you will love the set. The black levels are definitely better than the GWIV that I swithced back to, but my GWIV has no stuck/dead pixels, and no blotches which I find makes me happier than the improved black level of the GWV series. I also like the fact that more information is available in regards to "self tweaking" of the service menu.
Halfrican, I am also totally pleased with my GWIV. No dead/stuck pixels and great color. I have a few pixels with a little dust in them on the side but you practically need a microscope and a solid white background to notice it and you would have to have your nose two inches from the screen. The A10 seems like a great set but as with many Sony TVs, they are not without issues. I think you made a wise decision going back to the GWIV as its a great set (and don't forget the subwoofer).

Strangely my Sony DVD player gives a sharper, and better picture on the A-10 using the non-progressive mode. I watched 'Beyond the Sea' on it last nite, and it looked about 80% as good as the better HD programs. The PQ looks less defined when using progressive scan.

Wouldn't this mean that the TV has a better deinterlacer than the DVD player?

Halfrican, I am also totally pleased with my GWIV. No dead/stuck pixels and great color. I have a few pixels with a little dust in them on the side but you practically need a microscope and a solid white background to notice it and you would have to have your nose two inches from the screen. The A10 seems like a great set but as with many Sony TVs, they are not without issues. I think you made a wise decision going back to the GWIV as its a great set (and don't forget the subwoofer).

Steve ANS,

Thanks for the moral support, I think it is about time for me to remember that "if it ain't broke, DON'T fix it". I am really a total sucker for new technology, but often end up taking a beating on my investment by getting stung by the "upgrade" bug. I have upgraded my GW every model year, and this is the first time the "upgrade" back-fired on me. Fortunately, my dealer still had a GWIV in-stock and was willing to make me a very good deal on it.

At this point, I am going to wait till next year when the SXRD technology trickels down to the non-XBR series sets. Hopefully by then Sony will have worked out whatever is causing the "blotching" and improved the performance of the "Dynamic Iris".

Thanks again,

Half

1.) The Advanced Iris automatically opens and closes depending on the contrast at any given moment. It's sort of like a dynamic contrast ratio control to get deeper looking blacks. The 'Low' setting works best because it doesn't make aggressive changes like the Medium and High settings do. The downside is that the contrast ratio is smaller resulting in more grayish looking blacks and less shadow detail. Experiement with it and see how you like it. I prefer to just keep it on Low.

2.) To get rid of the reddish/pinkish whites you need to set the Clear White setting to Low or High. Setting the Color Temp to Neutral or Cool will also help.


Some general settings for DVDs:

Iris - 1 (will vary on room lighting)
Picture - 63
Brightness - 51 (will vary on player)
Color - 38
Hue - 0
Sharpness - start at 25 and go higher for more detail; keep it under 45
Color Temp - Neutral

Black Corrector - Leave this OFF or shadow detail will suffer and black crush will set in
Advanced Iris - Low is recommended
Gamma - Low
Clear White - Off (Low for reduced redness)
Live Color - Off (On enhances greens and blues)

I have tried a lot of the suggested settings on here. I have to say I pretty much vote for Dark Rain's CUSTOM settings as the best so far for watching HD or DVD's in a dark room. I have mine set as above (sharpness at 45, color temp NEUTRAL, CLEAR WHITE on LOW). It looks great. I am watching Pearl Harbor on ABC tonite (recording it on Comcast HD DVR box, so I can freeze the pic, and mess with the settings. It looks awesome in a dark room at these settings. VIVID mode, with everything at defaults except for backing down color to 38, is dreadful in comparison. The only setting on CUSTOM I have been a bit unsure of is whether to have black corrector ON or OFF. There is a tradeoff on that one. The Pic is more punchy with it ON, but shadow detail suffers greatly. I tend to agree that overall it probably looks better on OFF for most types of shows. I have to say that this TV still rocks when compared to my GWIII...FAR better overall PQ even though this one has the larger screen. No stuck pixels or blotches so far either..fingers crossed. The only type of program that looks better on the VIVID mode in a dark room seems to be animated movies like Shark Tale. It looks punchier and more 3D using VIVID. Try Dark Rain's settings though for normal movies, and I think you will be highly impressed!

Wouldn't this mean that the TV has a better deinterlacer than the DVD player?

I imagine that is the case. At any rate I guess the best plan is use what looks best to the eye. I am really happy with this A-10. It exceeds my expectations so far, and I am a hard one to please. I expected it to have the weaknesses of the GWIII, but it is a substantial improvement in my opinion. If you have to have true blacks you might want to spring for the SXRD. I think most people will love the A-10 though. They aren't perfect...but they are supurb for the $$$.

Steve ANS,

Thanks for the moral support, I think it is about time for me to remember that "if it ain't broke, DON'T fix it". I am really a total sucker for new technology, but often end up taking a beating on my investment by getting stung by the "upgrade" bug. I have upgraded my GW every model year, and this is the first time the "upgrade" back-fired on me. Fortunately, my dealer still had a GWIV in-stock and was willing to make me a very good deal on it.

At this point, I am going to wait till next year when the SXRD technology trickels down to the non-XBR series sets. Hopefully by then Sony will have worked out whatever is causing the "blotching" and improved the performance of the "Dynamic Iris".

Thanks again,

Half

Suprised you prefer the GWIV to the A-10. UMR on this forum, and C-NET both indicated that some variability in color uniformity is normal on all but DLP TV's, so I would expect that issue could just as well be present on the GWIII, and IV also. Maybe luck of the draw. As for the iris, if set up properly, I feel it greatly improves the PQ on the A-10 vs. my 1 year old GWIII. Blacks are blacker, and shadow detail is much nicer. I hope you have good luck with you GWIV. They are certainly nice TV's also.

I've placed an order for the 42A10 (expect to take delivery in little over a week.) Today I came across a local offer for Toshiba 52HM84 for a benjamin less. Unfortunately, I didn't get to see one of these sets in action...there were none on the floor. I'm hoping that the rarest of souls who has actually used or seen both these enough to compare will say a few words.

The Toshiba is a year older model than the Sony but it offers a bigger screen (minus a tuner of course)...but I'm wondering if its picture is comparable to the A10 (I do love the A10 pic but many of the DLPs aren't shabby either).

Any words to help me get off the fence would be great :-)

Thanks.

I have tried a lot of the suggested settings on here. I have to say I pretty much vote for Dark Rain's CUSTOM settings as the best so far for watching HD or DVD's in a dark room. I have mine set as above (sharpness at 45, color temp NEUTRAL, CLEAR WHITE on LOW). It looks great. I am watching Pearl Harbor on ABC tonite (recording it on Comcast HD DVR box, so I can freeze the pic, and mess with the settings. It looks awesome in a dark room at these settings.

I watched a little bit of Pearl Harbor and the HD transfer looked really sweet. It's too bad that they cropped it from its OAR of 2.35:1.

The only picture settings I've changed for my HD DVR cable box (Motorola 6412) thru Mediacom are Brightness at 43 and Sharpness at 30. Everything else is the same as my DVD player settings posted above.

I've placed an order for the 42A10 (expect to take delivery in little over a week.) Today I came across a local offer for Toshiba 52HM84 for a benjamin less. Unfortunately, I didn't get to see one of these sets in action...there were none on the floor. I'm hoping that the rarest of souls who has actually used or seen both these enough to compare will say a few words.

The Toshiba is a year older model than the Sony but it offers a bigger screen (minus a tuner of course)...but I'm wondering if its picture is comparable to the A10 (I do love the A10 pic but many of the DLPs aren't shabby either).

Any words to help me get off the fence would be great :-)

Thanks.

I can say that the Toshiba is one of the better DLP'S. I am pretty sure that model uses the better HD2+ chip. It is far better than Samsung's HD3 chip, which has a soft fuzzy PQ. A buddy just got the 62 inch version of the Toshiba you are looking at. It has a nice PQ, but the 50 inch Sony A-10 I have kicks its butt somewhat for overall PQ. After he saw my A-10, he has some buyers remorse for getting the Toshiba.

I watched a little bit of Pearl Harbor and the HD transfer looked really sweet. It's too bad that they cropped it from its OAR of 2.35:1.

The only picture settings I've changed for my HD DVR cable box (Motorola 6412) thru Mediacom are Brightness at 43 and Sharpness at 30. Everything else is the same as my DVD player settings posted above.

I am going to hate to erase that one off my DVR...it kicks butt compared to the quality of the DVD....we need BLUE RAY !!! As for the aspect ratio, it was kind of nice that it filled the darn screen for a change. I am not a lover of black bars..lol Thanks again for your settings....they looked dead on perfect for that movie! Funny thing though...some other material still seems to look better on the dreaded vivid mode...do you find that true also?

I am going to hate to erase that one off my DVR...it kicks butt compared to the quality of the DVD....we need BLUE RAY !!! As for the aspect ratio, it was kind of nice that it filled the darn screen for a change. I am not a lover of black bars..lol Thanks again for your settings....they looked dead on perfect for that movie! Funny thing though...some other material still seems to look better on the dreaded vivid mode...do you find that true also?


If you dont have Gamma corrector Or black corrector, Pro mode seems washed out...Myg3 was like this..

If you dont have Gamma corrector Or black corrector, Pro mode seems washed out...Myg3 was like this..

The A-10 doesn't have a PRO mode. Not sure what you mean here. You mean Custom mode perhaps, and are suggesting that for some programs the Black Corrector needs to be ON? That could be...but on the Pearl Harbor movie on ABC tonite it looked better with the Black Corrector OFF. Maybe varies by source?

Vivid-mode Standard-mode Pro-Mode?

In Pro-mode my Xs has Black and gamma corrector to make things looks just as good as Vivid-mode...Srry if you were asking other ? :)

Vivid-mode Standard-mode Pro-Mode?

In Pro-mode my Xs has Black and gamma corrector to make things looks just as good as Vivid-mode...Srry if you were asking other ? :)

A-10 has Vivid..Standard..Custom...probably new word for the same basic idea. Custom has the most adjustability of the 3 modes. How are you setting the black and gamma on your XS?

Gamma is at Medium-high depends, Black corrector always on atleast low...
Detail enhancer-high..

Color level 28-32..

I have tried a lot of the suggested settings on here. I have to say I pretty much vote for Dark Rain's CUSTOM settings as the best so far for watching HD or DVD's in a dark room. I have mine set as above (sharpness at 45, color temp NEUTRAL, CLEAR WHITE on LOW). It looks great. I am watching Pearl Harbor on ABC tonite (recording it on Comcast HD DVR box, so I can freeze the pic, and mess with the settings. It looks awesome in a dark room at these settings. VIVID mode, with everything at defaults except for backing down color to 38, is dreadful in comparison. The only setting on CUSTOM I have been a bit unsure of is whether to have black corrector ON or OFF. There is a tradeoff on that one. The Pic is more punchy with it ON, but shadow detail suffers greatly. I tend to agree that overall it probably looks better on OFF for most types of shows. I have to say that this TV still rocks when compared to my GWIII...FAR better overall PQ even though this one has the larger screen. No stuck pixels or blotches so far either..fingers crossed. The only type of program that looks better on the VIVID mode in a dark room seems to be animated movies like Shark Tale. It looks punchier and more 3D using VIVID. Try Dark Rain's settings though for normal movies, and I think you will be highly impressed!

Couple of things I'd like to mention.

Due to the way content varies, you may find yourself going back and forth between Vivid and the other picture modes. Usually, programming that is flat in terms of contrast, will benefit from the extra punch of Vivid. So its not really a matter of which picture mode looks best. Its which picture mode looks best with which content. ..and some content has crushed blacks regardless of TV settings (CSI).

The other thing is that depending on your source device, one set of settings on the TV may not work for someone else. I have a OTA HD receiver (Voom satellite receiver) and a Brighthouse HD DVR cablebox. Both are using similar BlueJeans component cable going through a B&K Ref 50 preamp then a single cable to the TV. The OTA HD tuner is just a tad brighter than the cable box. So, I'll probably have to put the HD tuner on a seperate input so that I can adjust the brightness specifically for that device. It might actually be that the cablebox is darker than it should be, but the point is that two devices may need different settings.

Due to the way content varies, you may find yourself going back and forth between Vivid and the other picture modes. Usually, programming that is flat in terms of contrast, will benefit from the extra punch of Vivid. So its not really a matter of which picture mode looks best. Its which picture mode looks best with which content. ..and some content has crushed blacks regardless of TV settings (CSI).

I would agree. I have my Standard and Vivid settings customized for certain things. My SD digital cable channels look a bit too bright compared to my HD ones, so I will select a different picture mode for them. The only thing I don't like about Standard and Vivid modes is that you can't change any of the Advanced picture settings.

I am going to hate to erase that one off my DVR...it kicks butt compared to the quality of the DVD....we need BLUE RAY !!! As for the aspect ratio, it was kind of nice that it filled the darn screen for a change. I am not a lover of black bars..lol Thanks again for your settings....they looked dead on perfect for that movie! Funny thing though...some other material still seems to look better on the dreaded vivid mode...do you find that true also?

I gnerally keep everything in Custom mode for HD and DVD. I might switch to Standard or Vivid if the content looks washed out and needs more punch. I find this to be the case on some older TV shows or an analog channel that looks really flat.

I gnerally keep everything in Custom mode for HD and DVD. I might switch to Standard or Vivid if the content looks washed out and needs more punch. I find this to be the case on some older TV shows or an analog channel that looks really flat.

Would be nice if Sony would provide multiple custom modes so we could define group settings to better match varying content. 15 custom modes should be about right. :D

Super-noob A10 owner here. I don't even have mine yet, waiting for delivery of the 42" version which is backordered.

anyway, in anticipation of recieving and enjoying my set, I was trying to plan out my hookup options/wiring needs. specifically, the best way to hook TV up to DirecTV DVR. I'm talking basic hookup here, for using the Sony's internal speakers.

-DirecTV DVR has no HDMI output; only coax, Audio R/L RCA, optical audio, Composite video, S-Video.

My question is whether the Sony will be able to simultaneously select audio feed from the R/L RCAs, while video feed from S-Video inputs? I'm assuming this is the most desirable option I have, but wasn't sure if the input selection/switching logic of the Sony allowed this combination.

TIA

Would be nice if Sony would provide multiple custom modes so we could define group settings to better match varying content. 15 custom modes should be about right. :D

For people as anal as we are about 'perfect' PQ, that would be nice..lol. Glad to hear others agree that the Vivid mode comes in handy for some material. Thanks for the input.

1) The "blotch" was a "deal breaker" for me, I couldn't stand it, buy YMMV.

2) Can't say for sure what percentage have the problem since we at the AVSFourm are a relatively small percentage of the total consumer base, but several forum members have noted this issue as reading thru this thread will show you.

3) My experience with Sony, and other large manufacturers, is that even if the know what causes the issue, they likely won't do anything to resolve it. Even if they do know what causes it, the fix will likely be the next year model. Back in the GWIII series sony had issues with the bulb, it took them a LONG time to ackowledge the issue, and they only replaced the bulbs for people who made a really loud stink about it. Most consumers will likely live with the issue, and just assume it is a limitation of the technology, this adds to the lack of motivation for Sony to address it officially as a "flaw".

The 50A10 is a gorqeous set with the exception of this issue, if you can get one that doesn't have it, or can live with it if it does, I think you will love the set. The black levels are definitely better than the GWIV that I swithced back to, but my GWIV has no stuck/dead pixels, and no blotches which I find makes me happier than the improved black level of the GWV series. I also like the fact that more information is available in regards to "self tweaking" of the service menu.

Again, you might not get a set with the issues discussed here, if you don't I'm sure you will love it. I would defintely recommend purchasing the set from a brick and mortor store with a good return/exchange policy, and if possible one that offeres ISF calibration as an option. Even if you pay a little more or even MSRP for the set if the calibration is included your still getting a fair deal. In addition they likely will be more flexible with finding a set that doesn't display the issues we have discussed.

Half
\


Are you saying that the GV4 had no blotch issues or dead pixel issues?
That would be a very definate reason to look into the older models which are still everywhere in the North.

\


Are you saying that the GV4 had no blotch issues or dead pixel issues?
That would be a very definate reason to look into the older models which are still everywhere in the North.

All LCD TVs/PC monitors can have dead or stuck pixels. It doesn't matter how old or new they are. The blotch issue most likely appeared on previous Sony LCD TVs. Look up the threads on older generation Grand Wegas. Also check the forums over at Agoraquest for this issue. You might be surprised at what you find.

The blotch issue is related to dust control during manufacturing and ownership. Sony typically has done a fabulous job of this in their RPTV's unlike some other manufacturers. Some previous models had issues, but not in great numbers. Based on the number of reported problems with the A10 there may be a problem with this model either in manufacturing or design. Without taking one apart it is difficult to know where the problem is.

Well I finally joined the club! :D Got my 42A10 from BB last Saturday for 33% off of MSRP. It was the last 42 'incher they had in the store so it was the display model (I was told 4 days out of the box). While they went & got the remote/manual I checked it out. I did not see any stuck/dead pixels or any splotches either (& I have not in in the 2 days that I have had it in my house). Also picked up that Terk indoor HDTV antenna.


This is my first HDTV set & I must say that at times it can be stunning. I do see what evey body means about vivid mode out of the box. Also, it should be a crime for a device with this many inputs does not have a dedicated access button for each one of them on the remote!

I'm on DirecTV & as such, I also got the H10 HD reciever which will not be applicable until this coming Friday when I get the triple LNB installed. Now onto the Terk.

I can only get one (VHF) HD channel (ok, actually 2) which is NBC here in Atlanta. Channels 11.1 & 11.2. Eleven-dot-one is (according to the A10) an 1081 feed. My mom would be so proud of me if she knew that I watched Law&Order (I hate those types of shows) last night. It was in a word incredible. Also, checked out Crossing Jordan to. The main male character needs to shave. It struck me as odd & annoying that I kept noticing his 3 day shadow in such detail & then it hit me. This is the power of HDTV! Eleven-dot-two is a continuous feed of local weather at 4801. I have a question about that. I thought a station sending out 1081i had to use it's entire DTV bandwidth & thus could not have any sub-channels but this must be incorrect?

Watched the Return of the King. I could not believe the amount of detail that I missed before. Not only the extra screenspace, but the resolution (I never noticed , all of the intricate designs on the coustumes before) was so much more. I have a cheaper Sony DVD/SACD 5 disc changer & the A10 does a much better job of upconverting than the player does.

All in all (especially at the out-the-door price) I am very satisfied with my purchase. I did not get the BB warranty & instead will opt for the Sony branded one in month 12. I will be testing the VGA input tonight with my laptop & I may even get a PS2 :) 'cause, at least thus far, this has just been an incredible experience! :cool:

p.s. Anybody in the ATL think I should be able to get more than channel 11 from the 30281 zip code. Channel 11 is the closest antenna to me, according to antennaweb, at 17 miles, but even the furthest (43 I believe) is only about 20.2 miles away. The Terk I had was an open box item (they only had 2 in the store, both open box)

The blotch issue is related to dust control during manufacturing and ownership. Sony typically has done a fabulous job of this in their RPTV's unlike some other manufacturers. Some previous models had issues, but not in great numbers. Based on the number of reported problems with the A10 there may be a problem with this model either in manufacturing or design. Without taking one apart it is difficult to know where the problem is.

Mine is fine so far...but I can say top of the box it came in was FILTHY! I wonder if some of dirt issues are coming from shipping, and warehousing issues? Or does the fan have to be running to suck dust into the light engine?

p.s. Anybody in the ATL think I should be able to get more than channel 11 from the 30281 zip code. Channel 11 is the closest antenna to me, according to antennaweb, at 17 miles, but even the furthest (43 I believe) is only about 20.2 miles away. The Terk I had was an open box item (they only had 2 in the store, both open box)


I'm in West Cobb (30064) and can get 12 digital channels with the Terk indoor antenna. Not sure where you are, but I'm in a tough reception area for normal TV. Basically though, I'm using Comcast's HD box, except for the ones they aren't carrying yet, like PBS Atlanta.

Okay, I've read the most of the main A10 thread to answer these questions but couldn't find an answer, so if I missed something, don't shoot me (this post was also buried in that thread so I started a new thread). I'm getting delivery this weekend and wanted to be as "up to speed" as possible.

1 - is CINEMOTION set to ON or Auto for all the inputs by default?

2 - I will be hooking my Xbox & Xbox 360 up to the TV via component cables but connecting the audio directly to a 5.1 surround sound receiver. Will I have "lip synch" issues? If so, how do I correct this?

3 - I will be using the Xbox 360 as my DVD player, should I use the same settings to play games and watch movies? Can you have more than 1 custom setting on the same input? If so, can you reccomend a setup for each (gaming & DVD's)

4 - if I turn CINEMOTION ON for DVD's, will this be okay for gaming?

5 - since all Xbox 360 games are 16:9 & minimum 720p - do I need to change anything in the settings and/or TV to obtain the best picture quality for DVD viewing?

6 - for standard TV watching, should I just watch them with black bars on the sides so the picture looks normal? Seems like all those WIDE & ZOOM modes are confusing and screw with the picture.

Not sure if this matters to my above questions, but I will be using a CableCard & the Xbox(s) will be the only other things hooked to the TV. I will have the Audio Out of the TV sent to my receiver for 5.1 surround sound (which I know I need to turn the speakers off for it to work).

Thanks for your help.

We bought a 42-A10 during the first weekend of the Best Buy Ad. Price Matched at Sears thinking we would get better service in the long run...

Sears in home delivery was cheaper and included set up as well...

Now I am wondering if Sears was a mistake...

They have now delayed our delivery three times, we bought the TV almost three weeks ago and the third delivery delay had it coming on Monday. Now they have delayed that date to the 23rd!

Anyone else have an issue with Sears delivering on A-10's or are they just giving us the run around because of the price match?


I'd have to agree with some other posters that this is a Sony supply problem and not Sears. I bought my 50" from Sears with a price match and they delivered on the promised date - 3 days after the purchase.

I have tried a lot of the suggested settings on here. I have to say I pretty much vote for Dark Rain's CUSTOM settings as the best so far for watching HD or DVD's in a dark room. I have mine set as above (sharpness at 45, color temp NEUTRAL, CLEAR WHITE on LOW). It looks great. I am watching Pearl Harbor on ABC tonite (recording it on Comcast HD DVR box, so I can freeze the pic, and mess with the settings. It looks awesome in a dark room at these settings. VIVID mode, with everything at defaults except for backing down color to 38, is dreadful in comparison. The only setting on CUSTOM I have been a bit unsure of is whether to have black corrector ON or OFF. There is a tradeoff on that one. The Pic is more punchy with it ON, but shadow detail suffers greatly. I tend to agree that overall it probably looks better on OFF for most types of shows. I have to say that this TV still rocks when compared to my GWIII...FAR better overall PQ even though this one has the larger screen. No stuck pixels or blotches so far either..fingers crossed. The only type of program that looks better on the VIVID mode in a dark room seems to be animated movies like Shark Tale. It looks punchier and more 3D using VIVID. Try Dark Rain's settings though for normal movies, and I think you will be highly impressed!


I read a few posts a while back saying that the "Vivid" (or its equivalent) mode made for a shorter lifespan for the bulb. It seems to make sense to me, but then I may well be wrong!

I read a few posts a while back saying that the "Vivid" (or its equivalent) mode made for a shorter lifespan for the bulb. It seems to make sense to me, but then I may well be wrong!

Nope, not really. Where did you read that??

Nope, not really. Where did you read that??

I read that on THIS board a while back.......don't ask me as I don't recall exactly when. I believe it was just one or two posts. If indeed the VIVID mode makes the picture more "intense" (brighter color) then it seems to make sense that it would take more "power".........similar to me "gunning" my car's engine. I'm sure this is not the best analogy but I think it makes the point.

[QUOTE=KevinXbox360]Okay, I've read the most of the main A10 thread to answer these questions but couldn't find an answer, so if I missed something, don't shoot me (this post was also buried in that thread so I started a new thread). I'm getting delivery this weekend and wanted to be as "up to speed" as possible.

1 - is CINEMOTION set to ON or Auto for all the inputs by default?

2 - I will be hooking my Xbox & Xbox 360 up to the TV via component cables but connecting the audio directly to a 5.1 surround sound receiver. Will I have "lip synch" issues? If so, how do I correct this?

3 - I will be using the Xbox 360 as my DVD player, should I use the same settings to play games and watch movies? Can you have more than 1 custom setting on the same input? If so, can you reccomend a setup for each (gaming & DVD's)

4 - if I turn CINEMOTION ON for DVD's, will this be okay for gaming?

.


Answers :

1. - CineMotion can only be utilized when the set is recieving an interlaced signal, i.e. 480i. You can set your DVD player to 480i or connect your cable directly to the TV, bypassing the STB with a splitter. Doing this apparently yields better results when viewing SD cable. Personally, I think DVDs look better via progressive scan.

2. - You shouldn't have lip sync issues using a 5.1 system.

3. If you are using your 360 to play games and DVDs, you'll only be able to customize one setting, since you're utilitizing only one component input. You might be able to make further adjustments through your 360 but no one owns one yet, so we can't tell you.

4. Cinemotion won't be used for gaming because 360 is an HD system. You might be able to set the 360 to interlace for movies. I believe it will be capable of progressive scan, however. How good a player it is, is still up in the air.

5 - Set the Xbox 360 (I'm sure it will have a setup menu) to 16:9. Set your TV's picture mode to 'Full.'

6. Use whatever picture mode works best for you

I hope I answered your questions.

I'm in West Cobb (30064) and can get 12 digital channels with the Terk indoor antenna. Not sure where you are, but I'm in a tough reception area for normal TV. Basically though, I'm using Comcast's HD box, except for the ones they aren't carrying yet, like PBS Atlanta.

Hi cgbick, welcome to the board. I'm in Stockbridge, exit 224 off of I-75S, Eagle's Landing area. Could you go to www.antennaweb.org & see how far you are from the Atlanta towers? I'm 17 to 20.5 miles away. I can only get channel 11 which is VHF. Im beginning to think that there is something wrong with the UHF port (the removable part) of my Terk antenna.

I have not seen any lip sync problems on my Xbox with Halo or Conkers.

QUESTION: when is "Game Mode" available? It is grayed out when my xbox is connected. I assume it is only for interlaced signals.

You must be confusing this set with plasma TV technology.

This set uses a constant output light bulb.

Plasma TV lifespan can be affected by "vivid mode" but I don't think that it is possible to do so with LCD projection.

But then again, what do I know.

I can say that the Toshiba is one of the better DLP'S. I am pretty sure that model uses the better HD2+ chip. It is far better than Samsung's HD3 chip, which has a soft fuzzy PQ. A buddy just got the 62 inch version of the Toshiba you are looking at. It has a nice PQ, but the 50 inch Sony A-10 I have kicks its butt somewhat for overall PQ. After he saw my A-10, he has some buyers remorse for getting the Toshiba.

Useful reply. Thanks. If the 62" HM84 owner prefers your 50" A10, I'm guessing the 42A10 might win over the 52" HM84 :-) Man, this is tough...the old size issue crops up in so many of life's arenas!

I read a few posts a while back saying that the "Vivid" (or its equivalent) mode made for a shorter lifespan for the bulb. It seems to make sense to me, but then I may well be wrong!

The bulb runs at the same level all the time so far as I am aware. I think the picture settings just vary the amount of light let through to the screen via the LCD panels, and the iris control. If I am wrong on this. please let me know.

Yoda,

Yes the Xbox 360 will be a progressive scan DVD player. I plan on running everything in 720p with games so I guess the Cinemotion feature is useless for my needs. I prefer a progressive over an interlaced signal myself (from limited amount I've seen).

Also the GAME MODE is not neccesary for my use either I assume?

Thanks :D

Useful reply. Thanks. If the 62" HM84 owner prefers your 50" A10, I'm guessing the 42A10 might win over the 52" HM84 :-) Man, this is tough...the old size issue crops up in so many of life's arenas!

My ultimate advice would be go ahead and buy the 50 A-10 if you sitting more than 8 feet from it, and can afford the extra cost. A bigger screen is certainly more fun to watch. Remember that the 50 inch screen is a whopping 42% larger than the 42 inch one. The Toshiba may have a tad less picture quality than the Sony's, but it is certainly a nice TV also. ( Just make sure you can return it in case the 'rainbow effect' proves bothersome...that is a deal-breaker on DLP's for me )

I can only get one (VHF) HD channel (ok, actually 2) which is NBC here in Atlanta. Channels 11.1 & 11.2. Eleven-dot-one is (according to the A10) an 1081 feed. My mom would be so proud of me if she knew that I watched Law&Order (I hate those types of shows) last night. It was in a word incredible. Also, checked out Crossing Jordan to. The main male character needs to shave. It struck me as odd & annoying that I kept noticing his 3 day shadow in such detail & then it hit me. This is the power of HDTV! Eleven-dot-two is a continuous feed of local weather at 4801. I have a question about that. I thought a station sending out 1081i had to use it's entire DTV bandwidth & thus could not have any sub-channels but this must be incorrect?


I would reccomend returning the Terk and getting a Channel Master antenna.. Its well worth the money.. I bought a Terk when i first got HD and could not for the life of me get it to get all the OTA channels.. The channel master i got was:

Channel Master 8-Bay UHF HD TV antenna, This antenna is about 40" by 40" wide

I beleive it was about $50..

Chris

hey guys, i just came back from the sony store to see the new a10 (in Canada-just got them), and im not an expert or anything, but i see vertical lines going down on the screen, most visible on light backgrounds. what is this?

i didnt see this on other lcd rear projection tv's that were there.

hey guys, i just came back from the sony store to see the new a10 (in Canada-just got them), and im not an expert or anything, but i see vertical lines going down on the screen, most visible on light backgrounds. what is this?

i didnt see this on other lcd rear projection tv's that were there.

Must have been a bad feed, or a bad tv...certainly not normal. You should have asked them at the store.

i asked a guy from another store, and they said, some lcd tvs have vertical bands... dunno though

i asked a guy from another store, and they said, some lcd tvs have vertical bands... dunno though

That is bull...I have never seen such a thing on any LCD tv. Why didn't you ask them at the Sony Store about it?

I'd have to agree with some other posters that this is a Sony supply problem and not Sears. I bought my 50" from Sears with a price match and they delivered on the promised date - 3 days after the purchase.

The way that Sears keeps pushing my delivery date back - now a month since they got my money, I am wondering...

But thanks for the reply... at least I know it is not a Sears issue with the price match... I was kinda thinking they were hoping I would get frustrated and cancel my order...

Not happening for that kind of savings... Not to mention, the Best Buy ad price is long gone now!

My ultimate advice would be go ahead and buy the 50 A-10 if you sitting more than 8 feet from it, and can afford the extra cost. A bigger screen is certainly more fun to watch. Remember that the 50 inch screen is a whopping 42% larger than the 42 inch one. The Toshiba may have a tad less picture quality than the Sony's, but it is certainly a nice TV also. ( Just make sure you can return it in case the 'rainbow effect' proves bothersome...that is a deal-breaker on DLP's for me )

Appreciate the advice. Like most, I would like the 50A10 but need to stay at abt the 1.5k wallet-level. That's what makes this so difficult...i mean getting the 52" (Toshiba) for less that what i've forked out for the 42a10.

And when you phrase the delta in screen size in terms of percentage, it totally boggles my mind. Man, 42% more screen area? Now I am really going nuts! I have watched lot of DLPs (not the HM84 though) in stores and haven't noticed any rainbow effect, so I don't think I need to worry abt that.

I'm now leaning on the fence back towards the 42A10 'coz in final analysis, I do want a great picture.

Appreciate the advice. Like most, I would like the 50A10 but need to stay at abt the 1.5k wallet-level. That's what makes this so difficult...i mean getting the 52" (Toshiba) for less that what i've forked out for the 42a10.

And when you phrase the delta in screen size in terms of percentage, it totally boggles my mind. Man, 42% more screen area? Now I am really going nuts! I have watched lot of DLPs (not the HM84 though) in stores and haven't noticed any rainbow effect, so I don't think I need to worry abt that.

I'm now leaning on the fence back towards the 42A10 'coz in final analysis, I do want a great picture.

How far are you sitting from your TV? Also, be warned that you are much more likely to see rainbows at home in a darker room than at a bright store. I strongly advise you buy a DLP only if you can return/exchange it.

I've had the e50a10 for a couple weeks now and have only one problem with the set: I cannot get a picture out of video 5 (no progressive scan nor HDTV). I thought it was just me when, after I connected my progressive scan dvd to the set via component cables, I could only hear the movie, not see it. (BTW, the DVD works in video 1, just not progressive.) So I waited for Comcast to come out to install their HD box to see if they could get a picture from video 5 and, after 2 different new boxes, they couldn't either. So...

I'm tired of getting screwed around by Sears' "repair" crew. Three times now they were supposed to come out to take a look at it and 3 times they haven't shown; giving various excuses.

Comcast said there may be a "trick" to turning on video 5 which I doubt since that doesn't make much sense.

Any thoughts besides maybe bad component input jacks??

I'm getting desperate. :mad:

billthebassist,
You have to turn on the input in the user menu. If all fails, read the book. ;)

I've had the e50a10 for a couple weeks now and have only one problem with the set: I cannot get a picture out of video 5 (no progressive scan nor HDTV). I thought it was just me when, after I connected my progressive scan dvd to the set via component cables, I could only hear the movie, not see it. (BTW, the DVD works in video 1, just not progressive.) So I waited for Comcast to come out to install their HD box to see if they could get a picture from video 5 and, after 2 different new boxes, they couldn't either. So...

I'm tired of getting screwed around by Sears' "repair" crew. Three times now they were supposed to come out to take a look at it and 3 times they haven't shown; giving various excuses.

Comcast said there may be a "trick" to turning on video 5 which I doubt since that doesn't make much sense.

Any thoughts besides maybe bad component input jacks??

I'm getting desperate. :mad:

Sounds like # 5 is dead on the component video. It sounds like you are getting audio through # 5 though? What happens if you hook the cable box, or DVD player to the other set of component jacks? ( I forget which # that is) If it works ok then, it has to a be a defect in the TV itself. I would think if # 5 was programmed as a SKIP, you wouldn't be hearing audio either. Make sure # 5 is active though.

The way that Sears keeps pushing my delivery date back - now a month since they got my money, I am wondering...

But thanks for the reply... at least I know it is not a Sears issue with the price match... I was kinda thinking they were hoping I would get frustrated and cancel my order...

Not happening for that kind of savings... Not to mention, the Best Buy ad price is long gone now!


A couple of years ago, there was a group of us who had ordered our GWIIIs from Sears. We all kept getting our delivery dates pushed back. We found that you can press Sears for additional discounts in the $100- $200 range. You might want to give it a shot.

That is bull...I have never seen such a thing on any LCD tv. Why didn't you ask them at the Sony Store about it?

I HAVE seen 2 vertical bars...but only when switching between channels during the brief moment when the screen is gray...never during actual program.

Remember that the 50 inch screen is a whopping 42% larger than the 42 inch one.

Your math is way off. An additional 8 inches to a 42 inch screen is not a 42% increase. It is a 19% increase. A 42% larger screen would be 17.6 inches bigger.

billthebassist,
You have to turn on the input in the user menu. If all fails, read the book. ;)

Thanks Jim, what page? :p Trust me, I have read it and I've labeled the external inputs real nice, too. I just can't get video 5 to give me an image, only sound!! And I have tried the side component inputs too with the same bad result. WTH!!!?!!? :confused:

Do you mean to tell me on a new set this (video 5) wouldn't be defaulted as on?

Your math is way off. An additional 8 inches to a 42 inch screen is not a 42% increase. It is a 19% increase. A 42% larger screen would be 17.6 inches bigger.

Sorry...but I AM correct. I don't how you are figuring this, but you aren't doing it right. There is also a site that calculates this for you...and it also says the 50 is 42% bigger than the 42. Plus I have measured both my old 42 screen (height X width) and my new 50. Again the math says it is 42% larger! Go to a store and do it yourself if you don't believe me.

I stand corrected. I forgot that it was a diagonal measure. Oops.

That is bull...I have never seen such a thing on any LCD tv. Why didn't you ask them at the Sony Store about it?

You are wrong. This can be a problem with LCD. The pixel column voltages are set in an alternating pattern that can be visible when it is not set properly.

You are wrong. This can be a problem with LCD. The pixel column voltages are set in an alternating pattern that can be visible when it is not set properly.

Well I meant it is not a normal condition of the TV's that should be expected. I would not be happy to see that on mine either. Thanks for the clarification though. Your input is always appreciated. You gotta wonder why the Sony Store of all places would have a defective TV on display! LOL

I have not seen that effect on the Sonys, but I have seen it on the Panasonic and Mitsubishi RP-LCD TVs. Its a bit disturbing! Can it be adjusted out?

Sometimes it can be. It depends on the set and if the manufacturer documents how the voltages are set. This seems to be less of a problem today, but it can still happen.

Sometimes it can be. It depends on the set and if the manufacturer documents how the voltages are set. This seems to be less of a problem today, but it can still happen.

That guy Murphy really knew his stuff...lol.

Thanks Jim, what page? :p Trust me, I have read it and I've labeled the external inputs real nice, too. I just can't get video 5 to give me an image, only sound!! And I have tried the side component inputs too with the same bad result. WTH!!!?!!? :confused:

Do you mean to tell me on a new set this (video 5) wouldn't be defaulted as on?

What about the OTHER rear set of component inputs? Do they work?

I finally got my 42A10 today, shipped by Sears. It was out of stock on Sept. 6 everywhere I looked locally (BB, CC, Sears), but I got the price-match to BB's sale. I was afraid my shipment might be delayed because of what I heard from others here, but it arrived on the original date promised. I played with the TV for an hour before I had to go to work, but I did the channel-scan for Comcast cable (Expanded Basic) and OTA antenna (Terk HDTVi), picking up quite a few digital and HD channels. My Pio 563A DVD player is hooked to Input 4 (component), and I looked at The Thomas Crown Affair, which I was in the middle of watching. Before MNF, I'll run DVE and compare the settings to what others have posted, and take a picture of my HT setup, which I think is quite attractive.