dark rain, i think you misunderstood my question, i did buy a widescreen tv and a widescreen dvd!

the problem is that not all widescreen dvds are formatted at 16:9, some are formatted at 2.35:1.

if you use the zoom feature, there are still bars present, they are just smaller.

also, thanks for the setup numbers dark rain, i plugged them in when i unpacked the tv and the picture was great!! but one question, the comments you made about the red problem and going into the service menu to fix, by changing to code 003b, can you explain a little more about what the problem and how it shows up during viewing??

thanks
tony

A common sign of red push is makeing skin tone look red. Like everyones got a sunburn. Follow the step by step in Grand Wega Tweaks thread and change it to 003b. Also bump the color about 3-4 notches when your done. Makes a huge difference.

Do you HAVE to hook up an antenna or will some channels just come in?

Okay, you're in Canada so things may be different. But I plugged my cable wire into the back of the set and hit auto search and I got over 200 analog and digital channels.

Spent most of the day hiding useless channels and labeling the ones that remained. But my connection is only cable.

If you used the antenna you could get OTA HD if its in your area.

Mike

A common sign of red push is makeing skin tone look red. Like everyones got a sunburn. Follow the step by step in Grand Wega Tweaks thread and change it to 003b. Also bump the color about 3-4 notches when your done. Makes a huge difference.

I can't seem to find this thread anymore. Was it archived? Could someone please post a link to this exact thread? Thanks.

I can't seem to find this thread anymore. Was it archived? Could someone please post a link to this exact thread? Thanks.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=567709

Found it on page 2. ;)

deconvolver tells you how to get rid of the red push (first post)

And a lot of people seem to like Dark Rain's settings.

I have changed my DVD player's settings to 16:9, but when I play a DVD (connected via component cables), the display on my e50a10 still says that it is receiving a 4:3 signal. Is this normal, or is this a problem (likely with my DVD player)? I have had this same experience with both 2.35:1 discs and 1.85:1 discs.

Thanks in advance for any input.

I had an interesting experience with my A10 today.

I have been using it for OTA HD and also for CableCard HD from Charter since Sept 05 without any problems.

Tonight, my TV started to act sluggish when it responded to my commands.

In other words, if I was using the digital tuner (700 series channels) or I entered the WEGA GATE menu, the TV would pause for a brief moment, maybe 1second or slightly longer, before you would see the results of your button push.

Also, the Channel number and label in the upper right corner did not immediately update with the new channel number even though the TV was now showing the video from the new channel.

Finally, on some channels the TV did not display the picture and the message "AUDIO ONLY" appeared on the screen. Jumping away and then back to this channel a second time usually made the picture appear.

I check diagnostics and signal strength was fine so weak reception was not the issue. Besides, how can weak reception make your WEGA GATE menu navigation sluggish?

It almost seemed to me like my TV was acting like a computer system that had become bogged down due to a memory leak and was now using virtual swap space instead of RAM for my programs.

So I did what any computer owner would do and "reboot" the system.

I turned the TV OFF and then waited a minute or so until the bulb cooling fan finally turned off.

I then unplugged my TV and left it that way for 5-10 minutes.

I then plugged it back in and turned it on and it was back to normal again.

dark rain, i think you misunderstood my question, i did buy a widescreen tv and a widescreen dvd!

the problem is that not all widescreen dvds are formatted at 16:9, some are formatted at 2.35:1.

if you use the zoom feature, there are still bars present, they are just smaller.

also, thanks for the setup numbers dark rain, i plugged them in when i unpacked the tv and the picture was great!! but one question, the comments you made about the red problem and going into the service menu to fix, by changing to code 003b, can you explain a little more about what the problem and how it shows up during viewing??

thanks
tony

The problem with using the ZOOM option on 2.35:1 films is that is cuts off some of the picture on the sides and decreases the resolution of the picture. You're essentially blowing up the picture when you do this. If you don't care about OAR then that's fine. I'm just a little anal about it when it comes to watching films.

ZOOM should be used if you have any non-anamorphic DVDs. This will eliminate the black bars on the side on widescreen films.

Red push is just an error in the color decoder. The A10 has it pretty bad out of the box. Anything that is red in color will look more saturated than other colors. Skin tones also look more rosier than they should. I find it very annoying. Do the red push fix to get more accurate color rendering.

Someone on here said that the A10 is an entry level set and I guess now I will have to agree with them.

I've had the 50A10 for just two days and have made all the standard tweaks suggested. (Where is Umr when you need him) I have watchd about 6 - 8 hours of programing etc 480i/p,720p,1080i via DVD, OTA and XBOX360.

I sit 10.5 feet away and the SSE was/is unbearable. It was/is visable even in stills. And the green cloud/hayse? What is that a design flaw?

Navigating the menue was just OK and some of the functionality was annoying. Like changeing the channel doesnt allow you to scroll to the channle you want then selected it. The favorites list was nice.

All in all I bought this set cos it has a nice footprint, looked good enough on the show room floor and it was going to be the bedroom TV. I also have had a very positive experience with my XBR850. In comparission though it doesnt even come close to the 2 year old XBR850. The wife complained about the pic quality...now thats something.

If this is you first HD set and you have nothing to compare it too then I imagine it would be fine.

Now why couldnt sony put the SXRD in the A10 package? I guess will be giving the JVC another look.

:(

I have changed my DVD player's settings to 16:9, but when I play a DVD (connected via component cables), the display on my e50a10 still says that it is receiving a 4:3 signal. Is this normal, or is this a problem (likely with my DVD player)? I have had this same experience with both 2.35:1 discs and 1.85:1 discs.

Thanks in advance for any input.

If they look like they're supposed to then I wouldn't worry about it.

is the BB 4 year in home warranty worth it for $400 bucks??

do these sets expierence problems down the road, or are they pretty much set if they work out of the box??

thanks
tony

vatechguy3,

Just a correction on ZOOM mode on the A10. For anamorphic DVDs it just stretches the image vertically which will distort the image. ZOOM mode is intended for non-anamorphic DVDs only. It can also be used for letterboxed programs on SDTV.

I still can't figure out how to see theentire program description on the display. When the description is to long, it just cuts....

I'd like to be able to see the all of the information. Is this possible?

If they look like they're supposed to then I wouldn't worry about it.

They do, but only by using something like "wide zoom." Otherwise, the picture won't fill the screen horizontally.

Haverchuck, my 42a10 does the same thing I have a rca dvd player and a ps2 both set to 16x9 I put in widescreendvd in ps2(480i only) tv display shows 16x9 and picture is as it should be but on the rca dvd player the tv dislay shows 4x3 with a 16x9 dvd with player turned on to progressive scan and the picture is distorted. The tv display button is using what it is receiving so if it shows 4x3 it is not picking up the 16x9 signal. Check your dvd player against another one you will see the difference.

As of last Monday I'm in the A10 club. I didn't have the chance to spend much time with it until watching Lost last night. It wasn't long until I noticed a rectangular section (about 8" x 12 ") in the upper left corder that had a noticeable dark green tint. Seems to be mostly visible in dimly lit scenes.

Is this the "green blob"? I'm not really the type of person that returns things, can it be tweaked out? Or do I have to get another set?


drew

Originally posted by Haverchuck
have changed my DVD player's settings to 16:9, but when I play a DVD (connected via component cables), the display on my e50a10 still says that it is receiving a 4:3 signal. Is this normal, or is this a problem (likely with my DVD player)? I have had this same experience with both 2.35:1 discs and 1.85:1 discs.

Haverchuck, had a similar problem and, as alluded to by JDMac29, change your DVD output to 480i instead of progressive scan. Also, make sure your 4:3 default on the wega gate settings is set to OFF. The TV should then automatically adjust to the proper mode if your player is set for 16:9. I left my dvd output as 480i and used the DRC pallette of the A10 input to tweak the picture; found the PQ looked better than with the dvd set for progressive (DRC pallette is disabled for a progressive input).

Hi all,

Well, I finally got it home and sort of setup (thanks to DarkRains settings) and HD looks great. I'm using OTA and watched Lost last night and it looked great. Still need to tweek some more but HD certainly looked very good. Oh, also saw some PBS (Walking the Bible) and the shots of the mountains in Israel were breath taking! Basicly anything outside/nature just looks awesome.

Questions for the experts. I ran the setup for both cable and Antenna. In cable, the setting for DRC is disabled (I'm using analog cable). Guess some other option is turning it off? Any suggestions?

[edit]
Ok, figured this one out. If the channel is an HD channel (OTA), the DRC palatte is disabled. Once I put it on an analog cable channel, the DRC palatte was enabled and I could set it.
[end edit]

Also, for OTA I want to run optical out to my reciever. I plugged it in, turned off the speakers, tried both variable and fixed out, but no sound to my rec? Any other settings I need to set? [edit] Oops, missed a setting on my receiver. Works great[end edit]

Anyway, thanks to everyone for the input on this thread!

Originally posted by Kurtlingle
Questions for the experts. I ran the setup for both cable and Antenna. In cable, the setting for DRC is disabled (I'm using analog cable). Guess some other option is turning it off? Any suggestions?

Don't really have an answer for your audio question but, in regards to the DRC pallete I believe the A10 limits you to 3 different pallette settings. If you want to apply to more than 3 inputs, you must use the same pallete setting values for more than one input. At least that's what I seemed to find.

Hi all,

Well, I finally got it home and sort of setup (thanks to DarkRains settings) and HD looks great. I'm using OTA and watched Lost last night and it looked great. Still need to tweek some more but HD certainly looked very good. Oh, also saw some PBS (Walking the Bible) and the shots of the mountains in Israel were breath taking! Basicly anything outside/nature just looks awesome.

Questions for the experts. I ran the setup for both cable and Antenna. In cable, the setting for DRC is disabled (I'm using analog cable). Guess some other option is turning it off? Any suggestions?

Also, for OTA I want to run optical out to my reciever. I plugged it in, turned off the speakers, tried both variable and fixed out, but no sound to my rec? Any other settings I need to set?

Anyway, thanks to everyone for the input on this thread!


I have audio out on the TV hooked up to Video in of my receiver.

How does one effectivly adj. a drc palette?

How does one effectivly adj. a drc palette?

Adjust the 'Reality' setting higher to add more sharpness and density to the image. Then adjust the 'Clarity' setting to smooth out the grain and edginess from the added processing. The end result is a more detailed and clean picture from SD sources. I find that it works great for analog cable thru the A10 coax connection and for SD digital cable. If you prefer to use it for DVDs then make sure you're not running them in progressive mode (480p).

Alright, latest update on my bean-shaped blue blob issue.
Light engine was replaced yesterday, and the blob is gone. However, I now have the green cloud/haze of death over much of the left hand side of the screen. I can pretty much ignore it with most material. It's somewhat noticable in skin tones between people on opposite sides of the screen (greenish tint to shadows and beards on faces). It really stands out with black and white scenes, or if I turn the color down to "Min". I don't have my DVE disc at the moment, but I'll see if I can tweak it out with gray test screens when I get it back. I probably won't contact Sony about this unless my wife notices it.

Does anyone have a link to an article or know of a thread where the causes of these nonuniformities is addressed? I'm curious as to why these types of defects are considered "normal" with LCD and (from what I can tell) LCOS rear-projection. (I've tried searching here and google)

I really like this set, especially with HD and DVD's, but I find Sony's QC lacking...

Not sure what you're seeing but my A10 looks great. I sit about 8 ft away and have no SSE problems whatsoever and no green haze. Picture looks great. Much better than my friends new SAMSUNG and just as good as another friends Panny Plasma.

Using Cable not OTA..Check your source...

I'm basically set to by the 42'' A10 but I was just wondering if anything new sub $2000 is very close to being released. I know that these TVs came out last August so it might be awhile until the next gen is released but just thought I should ask.

Does anyone have a link to an article or know of a thread where the causes of these nonuniformities is addressed? I'm curious as to why these types of defects are considered "normal" with LCD and (from what I can tell) LCOS rear-projection. (I've tried searching here and google)

I really like this set, especially with HD and DVD's, but I find Sony's QC lacking...

UMR explained it best in this post regarding color uniformity on these TVs:

Color Blotches

It's normal because of the current technology they're using to project the image.

Doh! Thanks, Dark Rain. I guess I should have searched again in this thread specifically. I remember reading that now. It's interesting (and sad) that the quality of the optics varies so much from TV to TV.

I searched through the thread but couldn't find a definitive answer for this:

Does anyone have any PC resolution recommendations for DVI->HDMI?

1280x720 doesn't fill the screen. Right now I have it set to something bizarre like 1360x768, so the TV registers it as 1080i. It mostly fills the screen, but something about text specifically just doesn't look right. I figure someone here has figured something out by now.

I'd prefer not to use Powerstrip if at all possible, although I still have about a week left on the demo so I could play around with it a bit more.

I have audio out on the TV hooked up to Video in of my receiver.
Oops. it was my fault - I forgot to turn on the digital button for that input on my reciever. Sounds great now!

Questions for the experts. I ran the setup for both cable and Antenna. In cable, the setting for DRC is disabled (I'm using analog cable). Guess some other option is turning it off? Any suggestions?

Ok, figured this one out. If the channel is an HD channel (OTA), the DRC palatte is disabled. Once I put it on an analog cable channel, the DRC palatte was enabled and I could set it.

How does one effectivly adj. a drc palette?
I highly recommned using the DRC palette for anyone using analog cable. The difference is night and day! I used Darkrains settings (see the link in his signiture) which has Reality at 65 and Clarity at 61 (or something like that).

I also used this for my DVD. I tried 480p first but it was not quick sharp enough or looked edgy. So I set my player to 480i (which enables the DRC) and set the Reality and Clarity to the same as above. It looked much better, almost like HD. I still need to "tweek" it a bit but looked pretty good.

NOTE: For your DVD player you must use component cables. S-video is not good enough!

Wow, am I just retarded or are the remotes flaky for these sets??? I can't seem to change any settings. I get into Wega Gate fine, select one of the video controls OK, but when I go to actually change a setting (using the arrow keys around that center key) it instead flips me to the next control. Am I just spastic or do I have a bad remote?

I vote spastic ;). I dont have much trouble. My "unit" fondels well.

Wow, am I just retarded or are the remotes flaky for these sets??? I can't seem to change any settings. I get into Wega Gate fine, select one of the video controls OK, but when I go to actually change a setting (using the arrow keys around that center key) it instead flips me to the next control. Am I just spastic or do I have a bad remote?
Not sure if this is it.. but you need to (sometimes) select an item with the middle button to get to a submenu item, then the up and down works. This will be the case with Video->Advanced for instance. Select go down to Advanced, click the middle button and it takes you to the submenu.

Wow, am I just retarded or are the remotes flaky for these sets??? I can't seem to change any settings. I get into Wega Gate fine, select one of the video controls OK, but when I go to actually change a setting (using the arrow keys around that center key) it instead flips me to the next control. Am I just spastic or do I have a bad remote?

Haven't had any trouble with mine. I'm guessing you may be skipping the step of pressing the center button after you highlight the setting you want to change and before you press the arrow keys to adjust the setting??

Man, it's driving me crazy. I get to the sub-menu with no problem, but then when i try to "arrow" up or down to actually change the setting, it just skips me to the next setting. I swear I'm doing it correctly. I've tried all arrow directions and nothing. And, it seems hyper-sensitive. Sometimes i press the center button, and instead of "selecting" something, it kicks me up or down. I know I'm used to Toshiba remotes, but this is nuts. Awesome set though.

Man, it's driving me crazy. I get to the sub-menu with no problem, but then when i try to "arrow" up or down to actually change the setting, it just skips me to the next setting. I swear I'm doing it correctly. I've tried all arrow directions and nothing. And, it seems hyper-sensitive. Sometimes i press the center button, and instead of "selecting" something, it kicks me up or down. I know I'm used to Toshiba remotes, but this is nuts. Awesome set though.

you don't have fat fingers do u? i remember seeing this episode of the simpsons where homer couldn't dial a number on a phone cuz his fingers were too fat and he was pushing a bunch buttons at once... :D

Removed my post since discussing price is frowned upon here.

I get to the sub-menu with no problem, but then when i try to "arrow" up or down to actually change the setting, it just skips me to the next setting.Press right arrow one more time to get to change/edit/modify/whatever.

What did you all pay?Not something they encourage being discussed here.

Not something they encourage being discussed here.

Oops, I had no idea. I was wondering why nobody had talked about price all throughout this thread.

I'll go try and edit my post. Anyone know a forum where I can discuss this information?

Man, it's driving me crazy. I get to the sub-menu with no problem, but then when i try to "arrow" up or down to actually change the setting, it just skips me to the next setting. I swear I'm doing it correctly. I've tried all arrow directions and nothing. And, it seems hyper-sensitive. Sometimes i press the center button, and instead of "selecting" something, it kicks me up or down. I know I'm used to Toshiba remotes, but this is nuts. Awesome set though.

I'm not a big fan of the A10 remote. It takes some getting used to. Give it a few weeks and you'll eventually get used to it or throw it at the wall. :D

Speaking of remotes ... has anyone found a universal remote that seems to work well the A10? Actually, I like the Sony remote except I can't control my AV receiver so it would be nice to get an "All-In-One" that can still access the WegaGate as well.

Has anyone tried the Samsung 755 DVD player?

http://www.samsung.com/Products/DVDPlayer/Hi_DefConversionDVDPlayers/DVD_HD755XAA.asp

Speaking of remotes ... has anyone found a universal remote that seems to work well the A10? Actually, I like the Sony remote except I can't control my AV receiver so it would be nice to get an "All-In-One" that can still access the WegaGate as well.


http://www.harmonyremote.com/

Not to get off topic here but I posted this question in the remotes thread but got no responses.

I have the harmony 628 that I have not programmed yet. Will it work correctly with my Gefen switch that I am using to get HDMI from both DVD and STB to my single input A10????

Any help anybody????

Thanks all... btw, I assume I'm better off having my Moto 6400 output 720p rather than 1080i, correct?

Thanks all... btw, I assume I'm better off having my Moto 6400 output 720p rather than 1080i, correct?

In my experience, it looks better when you set it to 1080i. Reason? The 6412 has a horrible scaler in it. 1080i stuff looks very soft when you have the box scale it down to 720p. In the case of 720p stuff, there is really no difference in PQ. But try it both ways and see what it looks like.

DarkRain... u rule... thanks! Just showed my father-in-law Korean sumo wrestling on inHD, and he almost passed out from how good the PQ is. Now as soon as I get the damn remote to work, I can try and tweak to your preferred settings!

Not to get off topic here but I posted this question in the remotes thread but got no responses.

I have the harmony 628 that I have not programmed yet. Will it work correctly with my Gefen switch that I am using to get HDMI from both DVD and STB to my single input A10????

Any help anybody????

I've got the model 880 remote and it works fine with all my equipment
including a Gefen switcher and a Radio Shack A/B antenna switcher. So cool. It takes a while to get everything configured but once you're done it's such a time saver. If the Harmony website doesn't have the codes, it can learn the commands from your original remotes. I'm sure you're 628 will work just as well.

DarkRain... u rule... thanks! Just showed my father-in-law Korean sumo wrestling on inHD, and he almost passed out from how good the PQ is. Now as soon as I get the damn remote to work, I can try and tweak to your preferred settings!

Just use my settings as a primer. Things like color, brightness, and contrast should be adjusted to your own taste. Same goes for the IRIS.

WHat happens to a guy that buys this tv and never uses custom but only standard or vivid? Without changing anything, is it just a God Awful picture or what? Because in the store when I view the 42 it looks perfect to me.

It is a case of 'what you don't know won't hurt you' .

I was a sound engineer for years, it has ruined me for listening to live mixes or studio recordings as a result. The reason is simple, I now know what to listen for, what I personally like and worst of all *exactly* how to fix what I'm hearing as 'wrong'. Going out to the movie theaters is awful for me as well as I can hear precisely where, behind the main screen, the blown drivers (and there almost always is at least one) are located. My wife, she'll not notice this at all.

If you take the time to calibrate one of these sets, set the red-push 'fix' and use DVE or Avia to do a rough calibration, I think you will understand what we are all babbling about. It is truly a night and day difference.

My father, he'll be the one with a 60" plasma set on 'vivid' for its whole life, running through a receiver with the treble set to -4 and bass to +2, and he'll love every minute of it.

Once you know what most any TV is capable of with some calibration, it will make you a lot pickier. You can chose to play around or just be happy out of the box, up to you.

IMO most any TV needs tweaking, I don't consider this set any worse than any other I looked at, actually I think it's better. I like the detailed info this and the tweaks thread have covered, it's helped a ton.

Quick postscript on my remote saga.... called Sony.... and shame on me for not trying this first, but once we did a reboot of the set, I was able to change settings. Really weird. Not sure why it locked me out. C.S. guy hadn't heard of this either. But he did tell me that 90% of his calls like this were solved by the good old-fashioned reboot. Now, on to tweaking those settings...

It is a case of 'what you don't know won't hurt you' .


My father, he'll be the one with a 60" plasma set on 'vivid' for its whole life, running through a receiver with the treble set to -4 and bass to +2, and he'll love every minute of it.



kingsqueak that was friggin hilarious, but soooo true, my fiance's parents have a 50' grand wega(forgot model num) sa8300hd box ,but only watch analog cable :eek: i even showed them how good hd looks and the said they'd rather watch the stretched out analog stations because most of the "stuff" they watch are on these stations. so i said...."ok"

kingsqueak that was friggin hilarious, but soooo true, my fiance's parents have a 50' grand wega(forgot model num) sa8300hd box ,but only watch analog cable :eek: i even showed them how good hd looks and the said they'd rather watch the stretched out analog stations because most of the "stuff" they watch are on these stations. so i said...."ok"


What can I say, I have roughly $30K in home theater equipment and watch the crappy noisy analog SciFi network coming in on mono sound. Test of how bad a signal can be and still have people watching it.

My decision to upgrade my 60" HD set to a 70" HD set is definately on hold until SciFi station goes HD.

Due to some cable card woes on my KDF-E42A10 (and not having oodles of time to deal with the Cable Company "technicians" who are clueless) I hooked up a cable box to get the HD tier. I had the cable going directly into the set and it worked great. However I disconnected that cable but now the TV insists on treating that as an input, so when I go through the inputs it always hits the tuner. Is there a way to skip this? I looked through entire manual for either a factory reset or a way to skip over the tuner and use the TV as a monitor only and found nothing. I assume there is a way, since if you are setup on sat. you won't use the tuner at all.

I am interested in what everyone thinks the average bulb life will be for this set. I've never owned a RP LCD before and the only thing stopping me from buying this set soon is the issue of replacing the bulbs. I've never been a believer in buying extended warranties but I would consider any warranty that covered a bulb replacement within a few years. I would hope to get at least 2-3 years out of any bulb and for me thats about 2000-3000 hours. Has anyone already replaced one? and... how long do the Sony's last compared to other brands? Any feedback is appreciated...

Hey guys. I'm trying to hook my computer up via the dvi-hdmi cable. When I first got the tv it worked. The only problem was I had to wiggle on the dvi-computer end a little bit for the signal to go through correctly. It's been about a month and a half since I tried it so I gave it a shot today. My problem now is I get no screen at all. I think my dvi port on my computer could be buggered. This is annoying because it's a $300 video card and I'm not willing to go out and buy a new one at this point. Any suggestions about what could be wrong? Thanks in advance.

Haven't posted here, but have been reading voraciously since I bought my 42A10 a week ago. I just wanted to thank everyone for their comments and expertise. I especially want to thank Dark Rain. I've used all of your settings and tweaked them to my taste. Without this forum I'd be "that guy that watches everything in vivid mode." Now, I'm the guy ticking off his wife by changing the iris setting DURING movies. I'm scared to death of going into the service menu, but I'm intrigued about this "red push" issue I keep reading about. Do I dare enter the service menu?

I absolutely love the 42A10 so far...and I'm still waiting for the cable company to hook me up with digital cable and HD. My SD channels look much better than I thought they would. Can't imagine what is in store for me when my HD arrives. I bought the Samsung DVD upconverter as well and movies look incredible.

Thanks again...and I'll still be lurking, looking for more tips.

I'm scared to death of going into the service menu, but I'm intrigued about this "red push" issue I keep reading about. Do I dare enter the service menu?


If you follow the directions found on this forum for accessing the service menu you won't have any problems -- it's really quite easy. I ended up using most of Dark Rain and deconverter's Wega settings but I ended up moving the "red push" back to the factory default -- but that's just personal taste on my part. Let us know how it works for you.

Logicman

Just wondered if anybody else has had this experience?

I've had the TV since last aug/sept. and have loved it with no problems or complaints at all. I've had had it hooked up to my SA8300HD via component and never had the red push issue. A few weeks ago, I got hold of an HDMI cable and hooked up the cable box with that, and BAM...there's the red push. I did all of the normal color adjustments (outside of going into service menu) and had no luck getting rid of it. Finally I did the red push adjustment and made it look better, but still not as natural as what I had before with component. I'm on the fence as to whether or not I will go back to component, as I really don't see an improvement in PQ with the HDMI. I just wondered if anybody else has went to HDMI after using component and experienced the same thing.

Had component, tried HDMI, back to component........No noticable difference to me.

Using my HDMI for my 1080i DVD player.

Haven't posted here, but have been reading voraciously since I bought my 42A10 a week ago. I just wanted to thank everyone for their comments and expertise. I especially want to thank Dark Rain. I've used all of your settings and tweaked them to my taste. Without this forum I'd be "that guy that watches everything in vivid mode." Now, I'm the guy ticking off his wife by changing the iris setting DURING movies. I'm scared to death of going into the service menu, but I'm intrigued about this "red push" issue I keep reading about. Do I dare enter the service menu?

I absolutely love the 42A10 so far...and I'm still waiting for the cable company to hook me up with digital cable and HD. My SD channels look much better than I thought they would. Can't imagine what is in store for me when my HD arrives. I bought the Samsung DVD upconverter as well and movies look incredible.

Thanks again...and I'll still be lurking, looking for more tips.

If your happy with the way it looks, i would not go into the service menu. Just enjoy it. it's very easy to mess things up. In the mean time, keep reading the forums learning the in's/out's of the SM till you feel comfortable to finally enter it IF you need too.

I dont know if its just me or not, but i was in the bay yesturday looking at the 42a10. It seemed VERY small to me....i dont know if it was because i was just looking at 50"+ tvs. Does the 42" look tiny to anyone else?

the only time that mine seems too small for me is watching 2.35:1 dvds since I'm so used to seeing stuff that fills the screen. otherwise, it's a great size for the 8' I sit from it.

Hey all, first time poster here. Been lurking for quite a while and finally went out yesterday and bought the 50A10. All I can say is WOW. First time for HD and will never go back. The NFL today was totally amazing in HD - even though the Broncos lost. :(

The set looks amazing, no blobs or dead pixels yet. Got a pretty good deal at CC where they had the set at 10% off, and then had an email coupon for another 10%, so can't complain.

Many thanks to Dark Rain and Deconvolver for their settings, as I have used them as a starter and things look great.

I dont know if its just me or not, but i was in the bay yesturday looking at the 42a10. It seemed VERY small to me....i dont know if it was because i was just looking at 50"+ tvs. Does the 42" look tiny to anyone else?

Before I bought mine, it looked TINY in the store. I had a 27" tv at home, and wasn't impressed by the size of the 42". Now that I've had it at home for a few weeks, it still looks quite large in my living room. When I went back to the store, I thought the 50" was the 42" inch at first, and the 42" again appeared tiny. And yet, when I return home, there is my rather large 42" tv sitting in my living room.

Stores design their displays to make tvs look tiny so that you will be tempted to buy the bigger screen the sales guy says you need. My best advice to you is to do the math before you buy, and figure out what screen size best suits your environment. Then by the screen size, no matter how small it appears in the store. You'll be happy you did.

Does anyone have any coupons for CC or BB?? I do not get the e-mails that everyone seems to talk about. How do you go about getting these e-mails?

Thanks,
Tony

Agreed on that yagiska. I originally was looking for the 55" A20. Costco only had the 50" A10 and 60" A20. The 50" looked small, especially in a place the size of Costco, but I pulled the trigger on it anyway. Brought it home at it looked huge in my family room! So much bigger than in he store. Very glad I went the direction I did.

The 42" looks small when you compare it to all the giant projection sets but they need a DEEP living room to maintain a proper viewing distance.

However, when you compare it to the aisle that is full of 42" plasma sets, it looks just fine :)

And most importantly, if you restricted to comparing it with any other TV set that can fit inside your existing entertainment center that is designed for a 36" 4:3 old-style CRT tube set, it actually FITS and looks better than all other options at a similar price, hands-down.

vatechguy3 check your pm

Thanks for the replies everyone. I sit about 8.5' - 12' from the tv. I know the 42A10 would be perfect for that. But i can get the 50A10 for about $300 more....I'm on the fence right now. Would i notice a significant decrease in SD content on the 50"? I'm mostly buying this tv for DVD and my 360, which i got last night. I dont think we will be getting HDTV soon, so we will stick with SD for now. Thanks.

zawada,

where can you get the 50a10 for 300 more than the 42?? everywhere i see it, the 50 is at least 500 more????

thanks
tony

i'm not sure i have the red push problem that some of you guys are describing. bveen watching the tv for over a week now.
the skin tones during the games yesterday were fine. and i was able to detect the cbs hd channel for cbs being broadcast over the cable line and it was incredible!!

how do i check on the build date for my tv??

thanks
tony

Thanks for the replies everyone. I sit about 8.5' - 12' from the tv. I know the 42A10 would be perfect for that. But i can get the 50A10 for about $300 more....I'm on the fence right now. Would i notice a significant decrease in SD content on the 50"? I'm mostly buying this tv for DVD and my 360, which i got last night. I dont think we will be getting HDTV soon, so we will stick with SD for now. Thanks.


Well, rough calculation gives the optimal distance from a 42" at 8.75 feet. That's right about where I sit for my main viewing position. For 50", we get about 10.5 feet which is inside your range.

For reference, when I scoot up about 2 feet, it makes a slight difference for HD (negative) and a significant difference for SD (negative). Getting any closer than that, and nothing really looks good.

Complete amateur opinion, but since 10.5 feet is right in the middle of your average viewing distance, I would opt for the 50" if it was in my price range.

Thanks for the replies everyone. I sit about 8.5' - 12' from the tv. I know the 42A10 would be perfect for that. But i can get the 50A10 for about $300 more....I'm on the fence right now. Would i notice a significant decrease in SD content on the 50"? I'm mostly buying this tv for DVD and my 360, which i got last night. I dont think we will be getting HDTV soon, so we will stick with SD for now. Thanks.
The range you quote is almost the same as I have (I sit about 9.5' to 11' from the 50A10) and the 50A10 seems perfect to me. The SD picture quality will of course look worse than for the 42A10 but how bad it will be depends on the quality of each show. Some SD content looks about as good as a DVD which is no problem for me from 9' away but other SD looks like a VHS tape that was then ovecompressed which looks fairly awful. I have Dish and their SD looks like they started with a clean source and then overcompressed it- I find it is still watchable but only just barely. With SD the more distant seats are obviously the best choice.

I just love this TV - 5 days old. I'm using an antenna (OTA) for HD and the Pitt vs Denver game was incredible. But the FOX game, Seatle vs Car was good but not as good. What I mean is this, the FXO logo, the line with the score, time, etc was not sharp, but sort of edgy?

I ran diagnostics and found that all my OTA signals are 95-98 % except for FOX, which is 81-84%. I would have thought that would be fine, and would not affect the letters on the score/time line.

Also, I'm using Darkrains HD settings without the red push fix (adding that tonight).

My understanding, was that OTA HD would either be there or not, and not affect PQ? Again, the players looked pretty good, and some words looked great (like the super-imposed 1st and 10 they place on the field once it a while).

Any OTA'ers out there have any comments?

Oh, I never watch hockey, but the flyers game on Sat afternoon (NBC I think) was unbelievable also!

The game on Fox looked fine on my set last night. I am also under the assumption that OTA HD signals are either there or they aren't. I use a "helicopter blade" antenna to get Fox in HD and the signal occasionally stutters or quickly drops in and out but when its in its always the same beautiful HD picture. Maybe it is the feed from your local Fox affiliate?

I am interested in what everyone thinks the average bulb life will be for this set. I've never owned a RP LCD before and the only thing stopping me from buying this set soon is the issue of replacing the bulbs. I've never been a believer in buying extended warranties but I would consider any warranty that covered a bulb replacement within a few years. I would hope to get at least 2-3 years out of any bulb and for me thats about 2000-3000 hours. Has anyone already replaced one? and... how long do the Sony's last compared to other brands? Any feedback is appreciated...
I believe that the "average" life on the sony was quoted at 6000 hours (guys am I right). I know on the prev version of this TV one guy is going on 11,000 hours! I think someone started a thread on that subject. That high number is not the norm, and the picture decreases over time, as UMR stated that the 11.000 hour bulb is probably at 40% (or was it 60%) - but you get the point.

Well, rough calculation gives the optimal distance from a 42" at 8.75 feet. That's right about where I sit for my main viewing position. For 50", we get about 10.5 feet which is inside your range.

For reference, when I scoot up about 2 feet, it makes a slight difference for HD (negative) and a significant difference for SD (negative). Getting any closer than that, and nothing really looks good.

Complete amateur opinion, but since 10.5 feet is right in the middle of your average viewing distance, I would opt for the 50" if it was in my price range.

10.5' is right in the middle. But those distances i agve you were the 2 distances from my sofas. One sofa is 8.5' away, and the other is 12' away from the tv. Thanks.

Get the 50", but never sit on the 8.5' soda

Or

Get the 42" and sit on either sofa

Get the 50", but never sit on the 8.5' soda

Or

Get the 42" and sit on either sofa
I would say get the 50" and don't have really picky people sit on the close sofa when viewing really bad SD but have everyone enjoy HD or buy the 42" and not be able to tell HD from a DVD on the more distant sofa.

I just love this TV - 5 days old. I'm using an antenna (OTA) for HD and the Pitt vs Denver game was incredible. But the FOX game, Seatle vs Car was good but not as good. What I mean is this, the FXO logo, the line with the score, time, etc was not sharp, but sort of edgy?

I ran diagnostics and found that all my OTA signals are 95-98 % except for FOX, which is 81-84%. I would have thought that would be fine, and would not affect the letters on the score/time line.

Also, I'm using Darkrains HD settings without the red push fix (adding that tonight).

My understanding, was that OTA HD would either be there or not, and not affect PQ? Again, the players looked pretty good, and some words looked great (like the super-imposed 1st and 10 they place on the field once it a while).

Any OTA'ers out there have any comments?

Oh, I never watch hockey, but the flyers game on Sat afternoon (NBC I think) was unbelievable also!
Your signal level is not the source of the image problem. Signal problems will show up as frozen images or sections of big blocks etc. When watching the diagnostic screen the error count will also momentarily go to a non-zero value if you have a signal problem. I didn't notice any problem with the banner during the game last night- it was very easy to read- maybe your local Fox station did something to damage the image.

When watching the diagnostic screen...How does one do that? Would the bulb hours also appear there? :confused:

i know another poster asked about CR around mid Dec 2005. I've scoured sony's site and the Internet and could not find it either.

Does anyone know the official CR for this set? or is it just hidden/incorporated in 'Picture Adjustment'?? thanks.

Sony's never posted the contrast ratio spec on this set.

Has anyone tried to teach any of the A10's commands to other remotes, such as receivers? I have all of my audio and video running through my Onkyo 602 and I am able to switch from Cable to DVD with one button push, except for one thing. My DVD player requires that I switch the wide mode on the A10 from Normal to Full, but I can't get my receiver remote to learn that button. I've succesfully taught it to turn the A10 on and off, but it can't seem to learn the wide mode button. Anybody had any luck with this?

DOES ANYONE HAVE CUSTOM SETTINGS FOR THE Sony KDF-E50A10?

Sony's never posted the contrast ratio spec on this set.

thanks. strange huh? anyhow, i just purchased the samsung hl-r4667w which has a pretty good picture. but i keep going back to BB and notice that the 50a10 seems brighter and sharper than the samsung (so whatever the CR is, it's better than the purported 2500:1 of the samsung?) i know some prefer the 'cinema look' but i prefer the sharpness and detail better - tradeoff, of course, is that about <3 feet you see SDE. but i think i'm trading in the samsung for the a10.

Well. I finally went and looked at the 50" and compared it to the 42". I didnt see any SDE at all. And i was up close with it, like 3feet. This is the set im getting on wednesday :D .

Has anyone tried to teach any of the A10's commands to other remotes, such as receivers? I have all of my audio and video running through my Onkyo 602 and I am able to switch from Cable to DVD with one button push, except for one thing. My DVD player requires that I switch the wide mode on the A10 from Normal to Full, but I can't get my receiver remote to learn that button. I've succesfully taught it to turn the A10 on and off, but it can't seem to learn the wide mode button. Anybody had any luck with this?


Does your receiver remote have navigation buttons? I had this problem as well, I ended up teaching the receiver remote the Wega Gate button and then I use the nav keys to select the wide mode, or input. Takes a little longer, but you get used to it.

Does your receiver remote have navigation buttons? I had this problem as well, I ended up teaching the receiver remote the Wega Gate button and then I use the nav keys to select the wide mode, or input. Takes a little longer, but you get used to it.
That's an interesting idea, thanks. Although the Wega Gate menu just lets you set the defaults, right? I couldn't find an on-the-fly setting that just does the wide mode change but doesn't keep it as the default for that input type.

Regardless, I think I'm going to call Onkyo and see if they have any suggestions about teaching the remote individual commands. It appears that the manual assumes that I have a different model of remote than what I actually have, so maybe there's something to that. Anyway, thanks again for the tip.

i know another poster asked about CR around mid Dec 2005. I've scoured sony's site and the Internet and could not find it either.

Does anyone know the official CR for this set? or is it just hidden/incorporated in 'Picture Adjustment'?? thanks.

I would imagine with the Advanced Iris set to OFF it's well under 1000:1. With it set to HIGH it might be reaching 2000:1 or more. Just a guess.

A live event looks great on this TV...you can see the texture of dark clothing for example but on a show like Law & order or CSI the actors dark suits are mostly solid black and you can only see the Pin stripe in brightly lit outdoor scenes. Is this the fault of the set or the lighting director of the TV production?

A live event looks great on this TV...you can see the texture of dark clothing for example but on a show like Law & order or CSI the actors dark suits are mostly solid black and you can only see the Pin stripe in brightly lit outdoor scenes. Is this the fault of the set or the lighting director of the TV production?


It's the limitations of RPLCD TV's.

A live event looks great on this TV...you can see the texture of dark clothing for example but on a show like Law & order or CSI the actors dark suits are mostly solid black and you can only see the Pin stripe in brightly lit outdoor scenes. Is this the fault of the set or the lighting director of the TV production?
This is definitely not a limitation of RP-LCD, it is either how you have the settings adjusted or it is in the source. Look at Dark Rain's settings in his signature below and my settings from the tweaks thread he also links. You will need to use the custom mode and turn off the black corrector to recover the shadow details. After you do that you need to adjust the brightness setting to get the black point correct for the lighting level in your room. This is easiest to do with a test signal so if you do it first on your DVD input by using the THX optimizer (on one of the many DVDs that have it) you will get an idea of what a correctly set black point looks like. Then you can just adjust the brightness on the TV input until you like the look of the blacks and shadows. The gamma adjustment will also affect the visibility of shadow details.

Could use some DVD player advice. I"m considering either the Panny s97 or the Sony NS90V. I had a defective s77, so I'm don't feel comfortable making any decisions based on it.

I know the s97 has MB issues, while the 90v has (maybe) image shift issues. Has anyone paired either of these with an a10 (I have the 42")? I know that people with both of these players say they have excellent PQ, but I am wondering if the a10 will exhibit the MB for the panny or the image shift for the sony. That would help narrow down my decision.

Thank,
Kris

How does one do that? Would the bulb hours also appear there? :confused:
From memory the way to get to the diagnostic screen is while receiving a DTV signal you go to Wega-Gate, select the settings menu at the bottom, then select diagnostic. If I got that wrong the manual should have the right way to do it. The bulb hours is not in the diagnostic screen, I think it is in a service menu.

Your signal level is not the source of the image problem. Signal problems will show up as frozen images or sections of big blocks etc. When watching the diagnostic screen the error count will also momentarily go to a non-zero value if you have a signal problem. I didn't notice any problem with the banner during the game last night- it was very easy to read- maybe your local Fox station did something to damage the image.
Thanks John.
Since some stuff looked so good, I figured it must have been something else. Again, it was the line with the score,etc, and it was certainly legible, and on SD would look "normal". But with HD, my expectations are the crisp looking letters similiar to a PC font. The letters were edgy. I'm located in the Philadelphia area so I'll check the antenna forum for anyone with OTA who saw this. I called a friend during the game who has HD thru comcast, and his letters were sharp/crisp.

I dont know if its just me or not, but i was in the bay yesturday looking at the 42a10. It seemed VERY small to me....i dont know if it was because i was just looking at 50"+ tvs. Does the 42" look tiny to anyone else?

Remember, it will likely look much larger once you get it home unless you have a monster sized media room.

I've got mine in the corner of a 14x16 room, view it about 10' away. I find it to be just perfect for the size of the room. It's large but it doesn't look like "the alter of TV worship" that a 50 would feel like. Aesthetics was a part of my choice, also the price difference for an equally nice 50" picture was part of it.

It's personal choice of course, but I really don't like being so close to a screen that it nearly fills my peripheral vision. The 42 allows me to see the full screen all the time, a 50 would push towards a feeling of missing the edges of the frame.

I would tell you to make a cutout the size of a 50 and hold it up in the room, see if it fits for what you want.

I went from a 32" flat CRT to the 42A10 and haven't regretted it one second. I watch a lot of widescreen DVD's and it's fantastic to have them full screen now. Also at 10' the picture quality is stunning and I really don't notice much artifact SSE/SDE etc like I might if I was closer to it or had a bigger screen.

I would first like to thank all you guys for making a novice like me sound something like i know what i am talking about.Anyways i have a ton of questions but i will space them out over a couple of weeks.First i went to CC last night to buy the a20 but after looking at it and measuring with the speakers on the sides it is just too big.I have decided on the a10.The guy at CC was trying to sell me an open box one they had that he said had about 122 hours on it for about 250 less than a new one.Does this sound right to anyone and my other question is does anyone have CC service plan.They say everything is in home service and they cover one bulb replacement.Are most people taking the service plan or not.i am buying this tv this afternoon and any or all help is appreciated.thanks.

I would first like to thank all you guys for making a novice like me sound something like i know what i am talking about.Anyways i have a ton of questions but i will space them out over a couple of weeks.First i went to CC last night to buy the a20 but after looking at it and measuring with the speakers on the sides it is just too big.I have decided on the a10.The guy at CC was trying to sell me an open box one they had that he said had about 122 hours on it for about 250 less than a new one.Does this sound right to anyone and my other question is does anyone have CC service plan.They say everything is in home service and they cover one bulb replacement.Are most people taking the service plan or not.i am buying this tv this afternoon and any or all help is appreciated.thanks.

I just bought my 50A10 this weekend from CC. They had it listed at 250 off and I had another 10% off coupon for a total of about 500 off MSRP. So I would say the deal they are offering you for an open box really sucks. I did not take the EW as I put it on my Platinum card so have Sony's 1 year + an additional year. Some folks on this forum are buying the EW directly from Sony Style for a lot cheaper than CC.

I just bought my 50A10 this weekend from CC. They had it listed at 250 off and I had another 10% off coupon for a total of about 500 off MSRP. So I would say the deal they are offering you for an open box really sucks. I did not take the EW as I put it on my Platinum card so have Sony's 1 year + an additional year. Some folks on this forum are buying the EW directly from Sony Style for a lot cheaper than CC.

The warranty from Sony does NOT cover the bulb though, and that is a major reason that most get the warranty. And the 250 off is not a very good deal. Like borgdaddy said, with coupons and the right timing, you can get the same deal for a new set and added piece of mind.

The warranty from Sony does NOT cover the bulb though...Actually, it does. Call Sony for confirmation, I did.

its sonys extended warranty that doesnt cover the bulb I believe

its sonys extended warranty that doesnt cover the bulb I believe
I called Sony this weekend and they told me the Manufacturer's Limited Warranty does not cover bulb replacements for the 42" A10. They classify it as a "consumable" such as batteries and the like.

I would first like to thank all you guys for making a novice like me sound something like i know what i am talking about.Anyways i have a ton of questions but i will space them out over a couple of weeks.First i went to CC last night to buy the a20 but after looking at it and measuring with the speakers on the sides it is just too big.I have decided on the a10.The guy at CC was trying to sell me an open box one they had that he said had about 122 hours on it for about 250 less than a new one.Does this sound right to anyone and my other question is does anyone have CC service plan.They say everything is in home service and they cover one bulb replacement.Are most people taking the service plan or not.i am buying this tv this afternoon and any or all help is appreciated.thanks.


Not a good deal at all. I Purchased one with 140 hours on it + the stand for 1k off of msrp

Since the CC warranty only covers 1 bulb and it costs $479 for 4 years, wouldn't you be better off buying a warranty from Sonystyle for $199 for 4 years and just paying the $200 when the bulb blows. That would only be $399 vs. 479.

Am I missing something?

I was wondering if anyone has figured out a way to fill the screen using the PC input. I can get a full screen using HDMI, just not PC.

Someone had suggested changing the "Display Area" on the "Screen Settings" menu.

However, I don't have a 'Display Area' setting under the 'Screen' settings menu when I am on the PC input. I only have 'Wide Mode,' 'Auto Adjustment,' 'Phase,' 'Pitch,' 'Horizontal Center,' and 'Vertical Center.' Is there something I must do to enable this setting? I have the KDF-e50A10.

Thanks.

I called Sony this weekend and they told me the Manufacturer's Limited Warranty does not cover bulb replacements for the 42" A10. They classify it as a "consumable" such as batteries and the like.You need to phone again after reading the warranty. It specifically covers all parts and labor for 12 months.

You need to phone again after reading the warranty. It specifically covers all parts and labor for 12 months.

I did contact Sony when I purchased my television with this question and the rep told me they do NOT replace the bulb. Here is a link to the warranty:

http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/eCS/Store/en/-/USD/EW_ViewExtendedWarranty-Detail?CategoryName=CE_TV&TabName=TC&Telesales=

The rep told me that the bulb falls under the 'consumable' items that the warranty does not cover. Look under number 11 (limitations), section G. This is what the rep referred to when telling me that they do not cover the bulb.

That's what I was told, too. I had planned on using my Credit Card that has "customer assurance" until the Sony rep told me that bulb replacements are not covered by the one year warranty that comes with the set. I also called Circuit City and a local dealer, both of whom told me the same thing. So the bulb is considered a "consumable" not a "part".

Since the CC warranty only covers 1 bulb and it costs $479 for 4 years, wouldn't you be better off buying a warranty from Sonystyle for $199 for 4 years and just paying the $200 when the bulb blows. That would only be $399 vs. 479.

Am I missing something?

You seem right Smagz, thats a $79 savings. However, after dealing with Sony and CC on my last disfunctional TV, I'd MUCH rather pay the extra $79 to deal with CC over Sony if any issues were to arise and I needed a replacement or repairs. Just my two cents.

IT DOES cover the bulb if it fails early since it should last at least 2000 hours. Beyond that it would be up to the consumer to replace it at THEIR own cost.

I was wondering if anyone has figured out a way to fill the screen using the PC input. I can get a full screen using HDMI, just not PC.

Someone had suggested changing the "Display Area" on the "Screen Settings" menu.

However, I don't have a 'Display Area' setting under the 'Screen' settings menu when I am on the PC input. I only have 'Wide Mode,' 'Auto Adjustment,' 'Phase,' 'Pitch,' 'Horizontal Center,' and 'Vertical Center.' Is there something I must do to enable this setting? I have the KDF-e50A10.

Thanks.

*Note: This post is now out of date. For information on hooking this TV up to a computer, please see the Powerstrip tutorial linked in my signature


I just purchased this TV (50A10) this weekend and I think I have near perfect timings set up through my 6600GT using the VGA PC input. First, you'll need to have powerstrip installed. If you aren't familiar with Powerstrip check out Karnis's custom resolution guide in the HTPC section, it's stickied on top.

For the desktop, this timing gives me 1:1 pixel mapping and it just fits the screen. Paste this timing into the custom resolution screen to set it up (IMPORTANT: copy the ENTIRE section between the lines --------- and use the paste button on the add new resolution screen):

---------------------------------------------------------------------
PowerStrip timing parameters:
1232x696=1232,112,128,192,696,45,5,50,79392,2050

Generic timing details for 1232x696:
HFP=112 HSW=128 HBP=192 kHz=48 VFP=45 VSW=5 VBP=50 Hz=60

VESA detailed timing details:
PClk=79.39 H.Active=1232 H.Blank=432 H.Offset=96 HSW=128 V.Active=696 V.Blank=100 V.Offset=45 VSW=5

Linux modeline parameters:
"1232x696" 79.392 1232 1344 1472 1664 696 741 746 796 -hsync +vsync
---------------------------------------------------------------------

And I use this resolution for movies. It is based off of the same timing parameters and allows you to scale the vertical resolution of the movie exactly by 1.5. It also matches the resolution of the TV exactly with some overscan and has a refresh rate of 59.94hz.

----------------------------------------------------------------------
PowerStrip timing parameters:
1280x720=1280,80,128,176,720,27,5,44,79392,2050

Generic timing details for 1280x720:
HFP=80 HSW=128 HBP=176 kHz=48 VFP=27 VSW=5 VBP=44 Hz=60

VESA detailed timing details:
PClk=79.39 H.Active=1280 H.Blank=384 H.Offset=64 HSW=128 V.Active=720 V.Blank=76 V.Offset=27 VSW=5

Linux modeline parameters:
"1280x720" 79.392 1280 1360 1488 1664 720 747 752 796 -hsync +vsync
---------------------------------------------------------------------

With these timings I can use the "zoom" mode and achieve 1:1 pixel mapping. I noticed that if it looks like the pixels are close but don't match exactly you may have to adjust the "Phase" setting to line it up. My TV "auto adjusted" incorrectly the first time but hit it right when I made it readjust again.

The picture is beautiful. I'm still trying to look past the SSE, but I think I just have to get used to that part of it.

Additional info: to paste in the custom timing....
Right click the Powerstrip tray icon, choose "display profiles" then "configure"
Click the "advanced timing options..." button
Click the "Custom resolutions..." button
Click the "paste timings from clipboard" button (small icon of clipboard with a sheet of paper in front of it)
Click the "Add New Resolution Button"
Follow the remaining prompts and you should be good to go. :D

Anyone With Some Custom Settings For The 50 Inch?

I would imagine with the Advanced Iris set to OFF it's well under 1000:1. With it set to HIGH it might be reaching 2000:1 or more. Just a guess.

I would recommend that everyone set the advance iris on high. I know at first you will notice the constant shifting in the iris, but believe me that you get used to it and contrast is greatly improved. I have mine on high and at first I could always see the shifting of the iris, but now I can't notice at all and I have had people think that I have a dlp because of the black levels. They are surprised when I tell them that its an lcd.

I was wondering if anyone has figured out a way to fill the screen using the PC input. I can get a full screen using HDMI, just not PC.

Someone had suggested changing the "Display Area" on the "Screen Settings" menu.

However, I don't have a 'Display Area' setting under the 'Screen' settings menu when I am on the PC input. I only have 'Wide Mode,' 'Auto Adjustment,' 'Phase,' 'Pitch,' 'Horizontal Center,' and 'Vertical Center.' Is there something I must do to enable this setting? I have the KDF-e50A10.

Thanks.
Did you try zooming the screen by just hitting the wide button on the remote?

Here is a link to the warranty:...No. That is a link to the extended warranty which we have all previously agreed does not cover bulbs.

Read the warranty card that came with your set.

No. That is a link to the extended warranty which we have all previously agreed does not cover bulbs.

Read the warranty card that came with your set.

I thought that was the issue we were discussing since the debate was between buying a warranty from CC or from Sony.

asking for a friend who just purchased an e50a10, do you guys have problems with the Cable Cards??? I have seen people have problems with the Toshiba DLP's using Cable Cards and wondered if you guys have similar issues. I want to advise him to use a STB to avoid annoying problems if you are having issues with CC's. Thanks guys.

Deconvolver-

I have tried the Widezoom, but then I get overscan.

Deconvolver-

I have tried the Widezoom, but then I get overscan.
Of course there is overscan, that is built into the optics. To eliminate the overscan with 1:1 pixel mapping you will need to use a desktop with slightly less than 1280x720 pixels. I think the latest drivers from NVidea and ATI have a provision for doing that but their settings will probably chop off too many pixels leaving you with a slight border. A nearly perfect fit will probably require using PowerStrip like MrPibb describes.

mine leaves about an inch or so border all around when I use the vga. I don't remember if I use any zoom or not.

asking for a friend who just purchased an e50a10, do you guys have problems with the Cable Cards??? I have seen people have problems with the Toshiba DLP's using Cable Cards and wondered if you guys have similar issues. I want to advise him to use a STB to avoid annoying problems if you are having issues with CC's. Thanks guys.
Cablecards often have a better picture than a STB and normally cost less to rent so there are good reasons to prefer them. The cableco is required by the FCC to provide a working cablecard. Some early A10s did have a problem with the projection bulb overheating the cablecard; if a set has this problem then Sony will fix it for free.

What's a better use for the HDMI input on this TV, an upconverting DVD player (LG LDA-531) or an HD STB (SA 32500HD)? I do watch a lot of movies on DVD so I'm thinking of using component for HD, just wanted to know your opinions. thanks!

dont know much about CCs, but do you give up surround sound from using one?

dont know much about CCs, but do you give up surround sound from using one?

TVs with a cablecard slot (such as the Sonys) have optical out for this reason. Basically any TV with a built in tuner should have optical outputs, not just ones with a cablecard slot.

As for the other poster asking about HDMI and component, it seems people have varying results as to which they prefer, so I'd see which looks best with component and which looks better with HDMI.

wongnog I have my direct h10 going HDMI into the A10 and notice a much better pic than component although a tad dark.

Using HDMI from my sony 3100ES DVD didn't notice much of an improvement over component.

Try both or get a Gefen (or other) switch if you would like both. I ended up getting a Gefen in the end.

For some reason, when I try to drop the resolution to something like 1232X684, I end up with a 4:3 image with big black bars on the sides. Is there another adjustment I need to make in order to get the right output?

For some reason, when I try to drop the resolution to something like 1232X684, I end up with a 4:3 image with big black bars on the sides. Is there another adjustment I need to make in order to get the right output?
If you aren't using the exact right timings, even with the resolution set right the TV doesn't seem to want to accept the signal properly. Have you tried using powerstrip and the timings I mentioned above?

What's a better use for the HDMI input on this TV, an upconverting DVD player (LG LDA-531) or an HD STB (SA 32500HD)? I do watch a lot of movies on DVD so I'm thinking of using component for HD, just wanted to know your opinions. thanks!

I think you have it right...use the best input for the stuff you watch the most.

A live event looks great on this TV...you can see the texture of dark clothing for example but on a show like Law & order or CSI the actors dark suits are mostly solid black and you can only see the Pin stripe in brightly lit outdoor scenes. Is this the fault of the set or the lighting director of the TV production?

I think it is a lighting and film related issue. The range of brightness that film is able to capture is much smaller than the real world, so recorded shows can't display the full range of shading. This is also noticeable on movies in theatres. I've been paying attention (sometimes too much attention) to the image quality of movies that I see in theatres and thinking that if I saw that poor image quality on my TV, I would think it needs some adjusting.

By CC problems, I meant compatibility concerns. Toshiba uses a proprietary "TV Guide" system and has the "TVGuide" logo on their tv's. I think that it is the menu system that effects its compatibility. But there are large numbers of people who are experiencing problems with the Toshiba's CC's. I just wondered if the Sony A10's are also having the same annoying issues. Thanks.

I think it is a lighting and film related issue. The range of brightness that film is able to capture is much smaller than the real world, so recorded shows can't display the full range of shading. This is also noticeable on movies in theatres. I've been paying attention (sometimes too much attention) to the image quality of movies that I see in theatres and thinking that if I saw that poor image quality on my TV, I would think it needs some adjusting.


put the advanced iris on medium. it really helps out a lot. it takes a couple of minutes to adjust to the change, but the problem you're talking about is reduced by a very large margin.

Well. I went to the brick today and bought the 50A10. WOW! is all i can say. This thing looks amazing! I see no difference in quality from my 27" to this 52" in digital cable at all. It still looks amazing crisp. DVDs and 360 is outstanding. The blacks i have no problem with at all, they look as black as they can be, for myself anyways... This is all from only 7.5 feet.

I would imagine with the Advanced Iris set to OFF it's well under 1000:1. With it set to HIGH it might be reaching 2000:1 or more. Just a guess.
I would recommend that everyone set the advance iris on high. I know at first you will notice the constant shifting in the iris, but believe me that you get used to it and contrast is greatly improved. I have mine on high and at first I could always see the shifting of the iris, but now I can't notice at all and I have had people think that I have a dlp because of the black levels. They are surprised when I tell them that its an lcd.
Thanks guys. i'm expecting delivery on the 30th and can't wait to try your (and everyone else's) finer points from this informative forum.

I think it is a lighting and film related issue. The range of brightness that film is able to capture is much smaller than the real world, so recorded shows can't display the full range of shading. This is also noticeable on movies in theatres. I've been paying attention (sometimes too much attention) to the image quality of movies that I see in theatres and thinking that if I saw that poor image quality on my TV, I would think it needs some adjusting.


On the two shows the original poster mentioned, Law and Order and CSI, I've also noticed that some of their shows look like mush while others look pretty good.

I think it has a lot to do with whether the episode was originally recorded in film or digital (by the way, film has a broader dynamic range than digital) and the number and quality of digital/analog conversions.

Well. I went to the brick today and bought the 50A10. WOW! is all i can say. This thing looks amazing! I see no difference in quality from my 27" to this 52" in digital cable at all. It still looks amazing crisp. DVDs and 360 is outstanding. The blacks i have no problem with at all, they look as black as they can be, for myself anyways... This is all from only 7.5 feet.

No noticable delay issues on the 360? I assumed the few things I had read around the 'net about lag issues was people who were not running it correctly in 720p, but still worry. What games have you played on it? Anything where reaction time is truly paramount, like racing games?

Anyone With Some Custom Settings For The 50 Inch?
Check out the link in Darkrains signiture to see his settings. That is a link to the A10 Tweeks thread. His settings have a very thorough explanation of how the various settings work. Between his settings and the tweeks thread (others posted their settings also) you should be set.

Here's the tweeks thread. Just page down 1/2 way or so to find Darkrains settings. The settings for analog cable really helped alot, particularly the DRC palette Reality/Clarity ones.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=567709&page=1&pp=30

No noticable delay issues on the 360? I assumed the few things I had read around the 'net about lag issues was people who were not running it correctly in 720p, but still worry. What games have you played on it? Anything where reaction time is truly paramount, like racing games?


ZERO lag for me. The only lag issues I know of are with panel LCDs and with the XBOX live in some cases (like call of duty 2, in particular). I play PGR3 all the time with absolutely no problems aside from being able to get myself to stop.

ZERO lag for me. The only lag issues I know of are with panel LCDs and with the XBOX live in some cases (like call of duty 2, in particular). I play PGR3 all the time with absolutely no problems aside from being able to get myself to stop.

Thanks man, I figured the guy I had heard of complaining about a 360 with the A10 had his cable on HD, but didn't have it set to 720p in his settings on the dashboard (therefore down or upconverting the signal was causing it). Since the LCD component of this set is so small, the response time is absurdly good for an LCD, right? That's the way I always understood it.

On a panel LCD, every pixel (millions of them) has to refresh individually when the screen changes, so really fast motion has a tendency to blur as the pixels have to refresh constantly. That's not a problem with these TVs since there is a light engine that takes care of it.

No noticable delay issues on the 360? I assumed the few things I had read around the 'net about lag issues was people who were not running it correctly in 720p, but still worry. What games have you played on it? Anything where reaction time is truly paramount, like racing games?

I only have the condemeed demo, quake 4 demo, and Perfect Dark Zero. No lag at all in any of them.

i have my 50a10's optical cable hooked to my ht-ddw670 optical in but i got no sound. so i called sony and the sony rep says" because im using a stb (even though its with a hdmi cable)
that i will not get any sound unless i use OTA hd or the cc slot, because its getting 2 signals...analog and digital" Now im no expert but it seems to me that since hdmi is a digital connection the a10's optical output should have no problems sending the message to my receiver. am i wrong? But another thing i noticed is when i hooked up the opt cable to the "sa-cd/cd" input of the sony receiver, i got a message that said "unlock" and the rep says "that prolly has something to do with the opt not working" but couldnt give me any other explanation. anyone got any sugesstions?

i have my 50a10's optical cable hooked to my ht-ddw670 optical in but i got no sound. so i called sony and the sony rep says" because im using a stb (even though its with a hdmi cable)
that i will not get any sound unless i use OTA hd or the cc slot, because its getting 2 signals...analog and digital" Now im no expert but it seems to me that since hdmi is a digital connection the a10's optical output should have no problems sending the message to my receiver. am i wrong? But another thing i noticed is when i hooked up the opt cable to the "sa-cd/cd" input of the sony receiver, i got a message that said "unlock" and the rep says "that prolly has something to do with the opt not working" but couldnt give me any other explanation. anyone got any sugesstions?

Does your cable box have optical or digital coax out? That's what I would use. You'll get the same result. In my case, I use optical for my cable box and digital coax for my DVD player. For getting sound using the A10 I just use the L&R audio out since I only use it when watching analog channels.

thanks 'rain i figured that out about 30 mins after i posted. i called my cousin as i was looking on the back of my stb and he said the same thing...and BINGO! it just seems like the guy at sony should have known that instead of telling me..."these are your only options" customer service....ha, what a joke sometimes.

I posted this is another thread but no one seemed to know anything. Has anyone figured out how to adjust the geometry settings yet? For some material, I like a little more zoom than "wide zoom" but I find "Zoom" to crop way too much of the image. My Sony 57" CRT had settings (in the service menu) to adjust horizontal and vertical size as well as zoom. Has anyone discovered how to do this on the A10s yet?

i'm not sure i have the red push problem that some of you guys are describing. bveen watching the tv for over a week now.
the skin tones during the games yesterday were fine. and i was able to detect the cbs hd channel for cbs being broadcast over the cable line and it was incredible!!

how do i check on the build date for my tv??

thanks
tony
That's what I thought too......until I actually did the red push fix......makes me wonder what the hell I was thinking before, haha!

Could use some DVD player advice. I"m considering either the Panny s97 or the Sony NS90V. I had a defective s77, so I'm don't feel comfortable making any decisions based on it.

I know the s97 has MB issues, while the 90v has (maybe) image shift issues. Has anyone paired either of these with an a10 (I have the 42")? I know that people with both of these players say they have excellent PQ, but I am wondering if the a10 will exhibit the MB for the panny or the image shift for the sony. That would help narrow down my decision.

Thank,
Kris

I have the Panasonic S97 and it is very nice indeed! I use 720p with HDMI. I do see a tiny bit of macroblocking (usually on low quality dvds) from time to time, but it's not to the point of being distracting......I used to own a 26" Toshiba HDTV and macroblocking was way worse on that set.

I just picked up my 42A10 yesterday after returning my Samsung DLP (HLR4267) since it had audio lag issues where my home theatre system and TV sound produced an echo effect. This would happen to any input into the TV (i.e. SD, HD, DVD, Xbox, etc). However, I could get rid of the echo by adjusting the audio delay on the home theatre receiver to about 70ms. But I just wanted a TV that worked and had no lag. After reading all the posts on the A10, it seemed like the perfect TV.

So I hook up my new 42A10 last nite and the same echo effect appears!! I can adjust the audio delay on my home theatre receiver from 0-160ms, but no amount will get rid of the echo. Actually, the echo gets worse as I increase the delay. I guess this means that the TV sound is lagging. Has this happened to anyone else? Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks so much for the help! And a big thanks to Dark Rain and the others who posted their tweeks. I never knew that the red push fix could make the image look so much better.

My 42 is hooked up to a JVC surround reciever 3 ways. A coax line from the cable box, the t.v.s optical out to the JVC and My DVD player to the JVC. None of these have any lag issues with the T.V.s sound. This is no doubt an issue with your reciever and not either T.V. you tried. As long as you can adjust the delay on your receiver(which is how you sync it anyway as I understand it) then don't worry about it and enjoy the T.V. :cool:

I just picked up my 42A10 yesterday after returning my Samsung DLP (HLR4267) since it had audio lag issues where my home theatre system and TV sound produced an echo effect. This would happen to any input into the TV (i.e. SD, HD, DVD, Xbox, etc). However, I could get rid of the echo by adjusting the audio delay on the home theatre receiver to about 70ms. But I just wanted a TV that worked and had no lag. After reading all the posts on the A10, it seemed like the perfect TV.

So I hook up my new 42A10 last nite and the same echo effect appears!! I can adjust the audio delay on my home theatre receiver from 0-160ms, but no amount will get rid of the echo. Actually, the echo gets worse as I increase the delay. I guess this means that the TV sound is lagging. Has this happened to anyone else? Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks so much for the help! And a big thanks to Dark Rain and the others who posted their tweeks. I never knew that the red push fix could make the image look so much better.

If you are increasing the delay on your HT system and the echo is getting worse, this seems to indicate the echo is due to your HT system lagging, not the TV. What make/model receiver do you have? A little more info on your configuration would be of some help. How do you have your audio hooked up to your receiver (composite,digital coax, optical)? Do you have it going to your tv then the receiver or directly to your receiver? etc...

I just picked up my 42A10 yesterday after returning my Samsung DLP (HLR4267) since it had audio lag issues where my home theatre system and TV sound produced an echo effect. This would happen to any input into the TV (i.e. SD, HD, DVD, Xbox, etc). However, I could get rid of the echo by adjusting the audio delay on the home theatre receiver to about 70ms. But I just wanted a TV that worked and had no lag. After reading all the posts on the A10, it seemed like the perfect TV.

So I hook up my new 42A10 last nite and the same echo effect appears!! I can adjust the audio delay on my home theatre receiver from 0-160ms, but no amount will get rid of the echo. Actually, the echo gets worse as I increase the delay. I guess this means that the TV sound is lagging. Has this happened to anyone else? Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks so much for the help! And a big thanks to Dark Rain and the others who posted their tweeks. I never knew that the red push fix could make the image look so much better.
Out of curiosity, why are you still using the TV sound? If you have a home theatre system, you're probably better off turning the TV speaker entirely. Unless you are missing a center channel and are trying to use the TV as the center, I don't think you gain anything by leaving the TV speaker on.

Budysr/Shozbot/Rashman - For my HT system, I'm using the Yamaha YSP-800 sound projector. Foy my configuration, I have my Xbox 360 hooked up via component to the TV and audio is hooked up directly to my HT system via optical cable. The 360 is also being used as my DVD player. For HD, I have a Motorola 6412 PVR box hooked up via DVI with a digital coax running directly into my HT system.

I normally mute the TV and just use the HT system, but it just doesn't make sense why there would be an echo when both are on together for any input signal. This means that either my TV or HT system is out of synch and I'm trying to figure out which one it is. With my Samsung, I could fix the lag using the delay in my home theatre system....this meant that the TV was lagging. Now no amount of delay can fix the echo with the A10. Does this means that my HT system has become laggy? Or is it an issue with the TV?

Sorry if these are dumb questions, but I just want a home theatre that works perfectly. I think I might be asking for too much.

Thanks so much for all the help!

i have my 50a10's optical cable hooked to my ht-ddw670 optical in but i got no sound. so i called sony and the sony rep says" because im using a stb (even though its with a hdmi cable)
that i will not get any sound unless i use OTA hd or the cc slot, because its getting 2 signals...analog and digital" Now im no expert but it seems to me that since hdmi is a digital connection the a10's optical output should have no problems sending the message to my receiver. am i wrong? But another thing i noticed is when i hooked up the opt cable to the "sa-cd/cd" input of the sony receiver, i got a message that said "unlock" and the rep says "that prolly has something to do with the opt not working" but couldnt give me any other explanation. anyone got any sugesstions?

i had the same problem because i assumed it would output everything to via the optical out on the tv.

anyone have a solution for my xbox component cables? since the audio cables (that are in the messy set (http://www.monstercable.com/images_db/monstergame/xbox/XGL400.jpg) ) are not long enough to get to my xbox from the back of the tv, i have to figure out a way of getting the sound to my reciever. thanks in advance.

Budysr/Shozbot/Rashman - For my HT system, I'm using the Yamaha YSP-800 sound projector. Foy my configuration, I have my Xbox 360 hooked up via component to the TV and audio is hooked up directly to my HT system via optical cable. The 360 is also being used as my DVD player. For HD, I have a Motorola 6412 PVR box hooked up via DVI with a digital coax running directly into my HT system.

I normally mute the TV and just use the HT system, but it just doesn't make sense why there would be an echo when both are on together for any input signal. This means that either my TV or HT system is out of synch and I'm trying to figure out which one it is. With my Samsung, I could fix the lag using the delay in my home theatre system....this meant that the TV was lagging. Now no amount of delay can fix the echo with the A10. Does this means that my HT system has become laggy? Or is it an issue with the TV?

Sorry if these are dumb questions, but I just want a home theatre that works perfectly. I think I might be asking for too much.

Thanks so much for all the help!

I'm relatively new here, and I'm not an expert compared to some people here. That said, if you want your home theater working "perfectly" you will want your TV speaker off. 1) the speakers in any TV are for all intents and purposes, garbage, no matter what TV. They have tiny amplifcation, an less than optimal setting, and are small. 2) there is no need in the 5.1, 6.1, 7.1 surround setup for an extra speaker, it can only make your audio worse. As for why it's happening? I am going to have to guess about a lot of stuff here...but the only thing that makes sense is that you must be using the built in tuner for HD, am I correct? Therefore the A10 must be outputting the optical output slightly delayed. That is the only reason to explain how it gets worse when you change your reciever's delay, because the delay adjustment is supposed to be there to delay your audio to match with delayed video.

Another note, the Xbox 360 has all the possibility to be a great DVD player, but Microsoft kind of cheaped out on some simple stuff. Some of it can be fixed through software, so hopefully they will with a later dashboard update. You might want to consider getting a nice progressive scan DVD player when your budget permits, they are so cheap these days that it will be money well spent.

Hey guys, I'm from Canada and have the HFE42A10. I just got a new HD cable box from Rogers called the Pace 551 with HDMI output. I'm having some problems with this cable box and tv using HDMI (component is fine). I have deselected all resolutions except 720p. The problem is that when I first turn on the cable box, the screen becomes very pink. If I unplug the HDMI cable out of either end and plug it back in, the colours return to normal. Or I can cycle through my video inputs and when I return to Video 6 (HDMI) the colours are ok. But if I just turn off the Pace box and then back on, I'm back to pink. Someone told me this has something to do with handshake problems... Unfortunately I called my cable provider and they told me they do not support HDMI and cannot help me, only component. Any ideas?

wongnog, I use a cable box(cox) made by SA and have it connected to my 42 with HDMI. I don't have this problem. My box does have a setting were you need to select HDMI output IF that is what you are using. Make sure you have done that first (somewhere in the onscreen settings of the box). Also on mine, there is a setting that allows the cable box to 'detect' the resolution of whatever channel you happen to be on and adjust to that resolution whether its 480i, 480p, 720p, or 1080i. Our channel lineup here actually does have analog and digital channels so it is a necessary function. Anyway check in your cablebox settings on video output and see if you can find the HDMI setting. Only other thing I can think of is either the box itself is bad or the HDMI cable.

daversion try monoprice.com, they may have and extender/ coupler to lenthen all the component cables

i have my 50a10's optical cable hooked to my ht-ddw670 optical in but i got no sound. so i called sony and the sony rep says" because im using a stb (even though its with a hdmi cable)
that i will not get any sound unless i use OTA hd or the cc slot, because its getting 2 signals...analog and digital" Now im no expert but it seems to me that since hdmi is a digital connection the a10's optical output should have no problems sending the message to my receiver. am i wrong? But another thing i noticed is when i hooked up the opt cable to the "sa-cd/cd" input of the sony receiver, i got a message that said "unlock" and the rep says "that prolly has something to do with the opt not working" but couldnt give me any other explanation. anyone got any sugesstions?


The TV won't pass anything to the optical unless its from its own HD tuner. Thats just how it works. I would be nice if it could pass audio from the HDMI but it won't.

I got no satisfaction from either of them so I guess I'm stuck with the thing. So my shopping tip for everyone is DON'T BUY AT SEARS!!!!Agreed! I got 'lucky' if you can call it that and I had a bad video card on the one I got from Sears, so I was able to return it without the restocking fee. Based on their still relatively new return policy - I won't buy electronics from them again in the future.

I have been trying to hook my tv up to my computer. If I use the laptop the pic has always been awsome. If I hook it up to my desktop and set the refresh and resolution the same as my laptop, the picture is junk. I could never figure out what was going on until I happened to hook up my laptop to the tv while it was plugged into the charger. Apparently, having anything plugged into the 110 from the wall causes distortion (slow scrolling shadows and the color changes slightly)
Has anyone had this problem, and if so how did you fix it? Line conditioner?

I assume that you laptop's refresh rate is at 60 mhz and that of your desktop is at a higher rate. Lower the desktop's refresh rate to 60 should do it.

I assume that you laptop's refresh rate is at 60 mhz and that of your desktop is at a higher rate. Lower the desktop's refresh rate to 60 should do it.

Thanks for the quick reply, the refresh rate does not matter if I unplug my laptop from the wall outlet. I can change the refresh rate and the picture changes size, but the image is clean. The problem I am having is if I plug my computer into the wall outlet, I get distortion in the picture. If I unplug the computer (laptop) and run off the battery the pic is super.

Hmm, that's strange. Someone more knowledgable is needed here.

You said that the picture is junk when the TV is hooked up to your desktop. What do you mean by junk? Distortion? No picture? Or picture scrambled?

Hmm, that's strange. Someone more knowledgable is needed here.

You said that the picture is junk when the TV is hooked up to your desktop. What do you mean by junk? Distortion? No picture? Or picture scrambled?

The whole picture lightly flashes like the bulb inside the tv is flickering. and. There is always a slight shadow about 2 inches wide and the full length of the screen that slowly scrolls from top to bottom of the screen.
It is really a bummer cuz the pic from my laptop looks great! (when its running on batteries and not plugged into the wall)

i am have been so impressed with the 42a10 in my bedroom, i bought the 50a10 for the family room.

one problem has come up. there seems to be a green hue in the center of the screen when displaying light color flesh tones.

this does not happen with my 42. i have checked the same image at the same time to verify this.

so i'm thinking i have a bad set?? or is there something else wrong??

both have the same settings (thanks dark rain) so i wouldn't think it is a setting issue.

any opinions about what i should do now?? i've had the 50a10 for about a week now.

thanks
tony

Here are some pics. Not the best quality but you can see the shadows I am talking about.

I have been trying to hook my tv up to my computer. If I use the laptop the pic has always been awsome. If I hook it up to my desktop and set the refresh and resolution the same as my laptop, the picture is junk. I could never figure out what was going on until I happened to hook up my laptop to the tv while it was plugged into the charger. Apparently, having anything plugged into the 110 from the wall causes distortion (slow scrolling shadows and the color changes slightly)
Has anyone had this problem, and if so how did you fix it? Line conditioner?
Does this happen when the power to the laptop comes from the same outlet as the TV? It does sound like you have a problem with your AC (like a gound loop that is carrying power) but you really shouldn't need a line conditioner. A conditioner probably won't fix the problem and even if it does it would be better to find and fix the cause of the problem instead since it could affect other equipment. Have you had other issues with your power or does the house wiring look old or bad? Of course, there may be just something wrong with the computer but if two different computers have issues that doesn't seem too likely.

[Edit] I just looked at your pictures and it does look like ground noise to me so you might have a ground loop problem. This is the same thing that can cause a hum on an audio input. (You might have some appliance that is leaking current through the grounding system.) Usually plugging the two items (source and destination) into outlets on the same branch circuit will eliminate the loop.

Does this happen when the power to the laptop comes from the same outlet as the TV? It does sound like you have a problem with your AC (like a gound loop that is carrying power) but you really shouldn't need a line conditioner. A conditioner probably won't fix the problem and even if it does it would be better to find and fix the cause of the problem instead since it could affect other equipment. Have you had other issues with your power or does the house wiring look old or bad? Of course, there may be just something wrong with the computer but if two different computers have issues that doesn't seem too likely.

[Edit] I just looked at your pictures and it does look like ground noise to me so you might have a ground loop problem. This is the same thing that can cause a hum on an audio input. (You might have some appliance that is leaking current through the grounding system.) Usually plugging the two items (source and destination) into outlets on the same branch circuit will eliminate the loop.

I agree, I think it is a ground noise problem. the house wiring is 15 years old so I dont think that is the problem. So If I plug the computer I am using and the tv into the same outlet this should solve it? I will give that a try and let you know what happens

No Joy, I plugged the tv and the computer into one outlet, still distortion, I even stretced a cord from the garage to be sure I was on a different circuit. Still same results. Any other suggestions? Do they make a contraption that I could use to remove the ground loop?

good news, I guess
If I unplug EVERY other cable to the tv but the vga cable, the pic clears up. If i plug anything back in, the pic goes back to *****. Anybody know of a fix for this?
I have alot of audio equipment and computers hooked up and have no hum or distortion on anything else so I dont think it is the house wiring.

I have a possible solution. If I am correct, the vga input is analog, the hdmi is digital. Digital is less prone to noise. I am thinking that if I get a dvi to hdmi cable and use it instead of the vga cable I could get rid of the noise. I currently use the hdmi input for my cable box and ther there is no noise. Any thoughts?

Found this thread, gonna try some of the solutions I found there. Still curious about my above solution, if anybody has ever tried this.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=322698

good news, I guess
If I unplug EVERY other cable to the tv but the vga cable, the pic clears up. If i plug anything back in, the pic goes back to *****. Anybody know of a fix for this?
I have alot of audio equipment and computers hooked up and have no hum or distortion on anything else so I dont think it is the house wiring.

While our house was being built and we were living in an apartment, I was getting a horrible ground loop problem. Exact same symptoms. I coudn't figure out where it was coming from because it remained when I plugged everything into the same outlets. Turns out there was all kinds of noise coming in from the cable company's line. If I disconnected the cable line from my TV and my computer, everything cleared up. It even introduced noise through my cable box to the TV since the ground noise travelled through the component cables. My first fix was to connect a grounding block to the incoming cable line and rig up an extension cord to only use the ground line...so I basically grounded the incoming cable to the electrical ground. That worked pretty well, got rid of 90% of the problem. The final fix, go back to directv!

You also may want to consider your power supply for your laptop. It may be introducing some noise, although I wouldn't expect it to clear up when you disconnect all the other devices.

My solution in our house?: Run a dedicated ground line that connects a common ground to my distribution box in the basement and directly to my PC, AV Receiver, AV cables, etc... Even though I can't see noise without it connected, I could swear the picture looks better with it connected.

I just purchased this TV this weekend and I think I have near perfect timings set up through my 6600GT using the VGA PC input. First, you'll need to have powerstrip installed. If you aren't familiar with Powerstrip check out Karnis's custom resolution guide in the HTPC section, it's stickied on top.

For the desktop, this timing gives me 1:1 pixel mapping and it just fits the screen. :



Well this did work ------------ thanks for posting your powerstrip parameters :D It requires a bit of tweaking with the Ati Catalyst Control Panel , and the Sony's Pc menu controls to get it to fill the screen . I dont think the image is 1:1 pixel mapping , as the text is only OK :confused: I do see 1:1 pixel mapping using 1280x720 and ZOOM mode ---- but there is a lot of overscan ..............................

I just got my E50A10 this weekend and overall it made a pretty good impression on my so far. I try to sum up my observations, particularly on the PC interfacing side.

Both the HD and SD pictures though analog coax cable are very good. I get the local HD channels free through the analog cable and the PQ is the same as through the HD antenna.

I connected my Pioneer (non-progressive) DVD player through the composite connection and the picture is great. I'll try the component also but the detail is already very good through the composite input.

My gripes for the PQ for video and TV media that after implementing Dark Rain's settings there is still too much grey for the darks, dark areas are somewhat washed out and the SSE (silk screen effect) is too much for me. Mind you this is all my personal opinion only. It's just that I need more from a set I plan to keep for the next 5-10 years. The SXRD models already have a clear advantage in these areas. Of course they're more $$$ ...

On the PC side first I tried the VGA input from the HTPC I built with the following hardware: Opteron 165 Dual Core 1.8 Ghz OCd at 2.4 Ghz, 1 Gb memory, NVIDIA GEForce 6600 GT PCIe video card, MCE 2005. The picture was not LCD sharp and I couldn't size the desktop to fill the screen via the NVidia drivers. I don't have Powerstrip.

Then I switched to the video card's component output and whoa! After adjusting the overscan compensation in the drivers (very easy) the desktop fits exactly and is sharp enough for webpages to be readable from 12 feet. The final resolution is 1216x684. I don't know why would anyone want to use the VGA input as at least for NVidia cards the component input results in a sharper, smoother picture with almost no artifacts. There is also zero lag in games and they look fantastic through component input. I've tried HL2, Doom3, Madden 2006 and a few others and all looked and played perfect. I've attached a few pictures to illustrate.

Overall my impressions are good but for my purposes I'll wait for a better price (or a no 'dumbo ears' style) on the XSRD. This set is however probably the best out there in it's price range.

Well this did work ------------ thanks for posting your powerstrip parameters :D It requires a bit of tweaking with the Ati Catalyst Control Panel , and the Sony's Pc menu controls to get it to fill the screen . I dont think the image is 1:1 pixel mapping , as the text is only OK :confused: I do see 1:1 pixel mapping using 1280x720 and ZOOM mode ---- but there is a lot of overscan ..............................

You using HDMI or VGA? I couldn't get 1:1 pixel mapping via HDMI on anything but 1280x720.

With my system (nVidia vs your ATI card may be the difference) the timings I provided give me 1:1 pixel mapping, though. I had to turn on cleartype because many of the standard windows fonts are only 1 pixel wide and it was hard to see clearly from my couch. Turning cleartype on helped make it more readable.

The only minor complaints I have about this TV:
SSE
Inability to change settings on the TV when using VGA input (i.e. IRIS, brightness, contrast, etc...) leading to so-so black levels.

I watched the beginning sequence of Episode III and saw things that I've NEVER seen before in the background. Scaling from my PC is awesome and even had my wife commenting about how good it looked (which is quite an achievement!). :D

You using HDMI or VGA? I couldn't get 1:1 pixel mapping via HDMI on anything but 1280x720.

With my system (nVidia vs your ATI card may be the difference) the timings I provided give me 1:1 pixel mapping, though. I had to turn on cleartype because many of the standard windows fonts are only 1 pixel wide and it was hard to see clearly from my couch. Turning cleartype on helped make it more readable.

The only minor complaints I have about this TV:
SSE
Inability to change settings on the TV when using VGA input (i.e. IRIS, brightness, contrast, etc...) leading to so-so black levels.

I watched the beginning sequence of Episode III and saw things that I've NEVER seen before in the background. Scaling from my PC is awesome and even had my wife commenting about how good it looked (which is quite an achievement!). :D




I use vga . You can change iris , brightness and contrast with vga .

WEGAGATE : then SETTINGS then right on DISPLAY SETTINGS and scroll down .

I use vga . You can change iris , brightness and contrast with vga .

WEGAGATE : then SETTINGS then right on DISPLAY SETTINGS and scroll down .

I'll have to double check when I get home. I thought there were some display settings that weren't available when using VGA. Maybe it's just some of the advanced settings.

I've read and posted in this and the Maxent thread. However, I am somewhat an HD newbie and respect the advice on this board.

I am trying to decide between these two. They are generally about the same price.

Here is my situation:
1. I won't need to mount it on a wall.
2. I'll be using a Motorola Dual DVR so won't technically need a tuner.
3. We be providing signal from Comcast via the Motorola, also from an upconverting DVD. Will have a vcr hooked up but will use it very seldom and will likely be for kids' movies so I'm not concerned about the high end quality.
4. Will be in an open space -- don't have to worry about heat dissipation.
5. Living room is WAY open and lots of light. Nothing is direct and I can control it with the blinds. Nevertheless, if one is impacted *more* by ambient light, I'd like your opinion on that.
6. Most viewing will be TV, then DVD. I'll likely not ever use it as a computer monitor. We will do *some* Playstation, not a lot, though.

Which should I buy and why?

I've read and posted in this and the Maxent thread. However, I am somewhat an HD newbie and respect the advice on this board.

I am trying to decide between these two. They are generally about the same price.

Here is my situation:
1. I won't need to mount it on a wall.
2. I'll be using a Motorola Dual DVR so won't technically need a tuner.
3. We be providing signal from Comcast via the Motorola, also from an upconverting DVD. Will have a vcr hooked up but will use it very seldom and will likely be for kids' movies so I'm not concerned about the high end quality.
4. Will be in an open space -- don't have to worry about heat dissipation.
5. Living room is WAY open and lots of light. Nothing is direct and I can control it with the blinds. Nevertheless, if one is impacted *more* by ambient light, I'd like your opinion on that.
6. Most viewing will be TV, then DVD. I'll likely not ever use it as a computer monitor. We will do *some* Playstation, not a lot, though.

Which should I buy and why?

Do you have a link to the Maxent?

I've read and posted in this and the Maxent thread. However, I am somewhat an HD newbie and respect the advice on this board.

I am trying to decide between these two. They are generally about the same price.

Here is my situation:
1. I won't need to mount it on a wall.
2. I'll be using a Motorola Dual DVR so won't technically need a tuner.
3. We be providing signal from Comcast via the Motorola, also from an upconverting DVD. Will have a vcr hooked up but will use it very seldom and will likely be for kids' movies so I'm not concerned about the high end quality.
4. Will be in an open space -- don't have to worry about heat dissipation.
5. Living room is WAY open and lots of light. Nothing is direct and I can control it with the blinds. Nevertheless, if one is impacted *more* by ambient light, I'd like your opinion on that.
6. Most viewing will be TV, then DVD. I'll likely not ever use it as a computer monitor. We will do *some* Playstation, not a lot, though.

Which should I buy and why?
Have you looked at these in a store? Expect the set-up to be way off in any big box store but you can still get an idea of the different look of RP-LCD vs. plasma.

Have you looked at these in a store? Expect the set-up to be way off in any big box store but you can still get an idea of the different look of RP-LCD vs. plasma.

Oh, I've seen them both...in detail...in the stores. They both look amazing. I'm primarily looking for application information concerning inputs, etc.

The Maxent is made by Sampo, if that has any significance, other than reliablity issues.

I have my PC hooked up to my e50A10 through the VGA. Every so often, the "Video 7"label in the top left corner, will continually come on for a couple of seconds, go off for anywhere from 3 seconds to a minute or so and then come back on again. This process will repeat continually. Not sure what triggers it or how to stop it. Other times, you can watch all night and no Video 7 labels.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

Ok, I'm back wih a couple questions. Oh just for anyone who was following my return saga. Set number 4 was the lucky number. No glaring problems to speak of, ie. blue or green corners, geometry problems, or freaked out pixels. I'm a happy guy so far. And I have forced myself to not look for anything else wrong. From where I'm at on the couch all is well =). I am finally able to settle down and just enjoy the set. I'm sure the CC delivery guys are extatic too LOL.

Ok question. I've heard a few ppl on here state that the a10s have a pretty good de-interlacer built in. Well for the first time tonight (while whatching star wars III for the first time, yep missed it in theaters too) I flipped the output on my dvd play to 480I. I noticed right away that the picture was crisper. My dvd player is the sony dvp-ns50p, which looks to be sony entry level model this year. So am I seeing things or is probbably safe to say the a10 has a better chip than the dvd player?

Also with the 480I I can adjust the drc pallet. How in the heck do I go about getting that right??? lol. Can someone help me out? Or possibly give me the setting I should be using for it?

Thanx guys

Would some of you mind running the THX Optimizer aspect ratio check (both of them) to see if the vertical lines in the rectangle are slightly jagged. Mine are and I am wondering if this is typical of the E50A10.

With kids as the intended users, I would not choose plasma because there is a good chance they will leave the set in 4:3 mode ("square" picture with black bars on each side) for an extended period of time and cause some burn-in effects at the borders.

With LCD rear projection, burn-in is not an issue.

With plasma, you can destroy the set if your little ones damage the viewing surface. With LCD projection, the viewing surface is just a projector screen that can be replaced for relatively little cost ($100-200 is my guess).

Ok question. I've heard a few ppl on here state that the a10s have a pretty good de-interlacer built in. Well for the first time tonight (while whatching star wars III for the first time, yep missed it in theaters too) I flipped the output on my dvd play to 480I. I noticed right away that the picture was crisper. My dvd player is the sony dvp-ns50p, which looks to be sony entry level model this year. So am I seeing things or is probbably safe to say the a10 has a better chip than the dvd player?

Also with the 480I I can adjust the drc pallet. How in the heck do I go about getting that right??? lol. Can someone help me out? Or possibly give me the setting I should be using for it?

Thanx guys

I think you're just seeing a sharper image with 480i output. I think if you put if back to 480p and increase the sharpness you'll probably get the same effect. I don't notice a huge difference with my DVD player so I just leave it at 480p and run the Sharpness setting around 30.

For DVDs I'd recommend you leave the DRC Palette at default. The reason is because adding more processing will degrade the PQ. But if you do increase the settings then be gentle. Edge enhancement is already prevalent on a lot of DVDs and you don't want to exaggerate the effect.

I have my PC hooked up to my e50A10 through the VGA. Every so often, the "Video 7"label in the top left corner, will continually come on for a couple of seconds, go off for anywhere from 3 seconds to a minute or so and then come back on again. This process will repeat continually. Not sure what triggers it or how to stop it. Other times, you can watch all night and no Video 7 labels.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

My guess is that either your TV is bad, the VGA cable is bad, or the adapter in your PC is deciding to loose sync periodically.

Is the picture rock solid on video 7, or does it fade in and out when this happens?

With kids as the intended users, I would not choose plasma because there is a good chance they will leave the set in 4:3 mode ("square" picture with black bars on each side) for an extended period of time and cause some burn-in effects at the borders.

With LCD rear projection, burn-in is not an issue.

With plasma, you can destroy the set if your little ones damage the viewing surface. With LCD projection, the viewing surface is just a projector screen that can be replaced for relatively little cost ($100-200 is my guess).

Good input, and something to think about. My kids don't watch (in this room) TV long enough for it to be a problem, though.

*What autosettings do these TVs have for watching 4:3?

Hi folks!
We're pretty pleased with our KDF-E42A10, but I have an issue I am trying to troubleshoot. I am trying to determine if this is a broadcast issue or something I can alleviate via some WEGAGate settings.

Problem: During dark programs, like Sci-Fi's Battlestar Galactica or last weeks Stargate Atlantis episode, we'll see macroblocking in the shadows.

The facts:
1. Dish Network is the service provider. The receiver is an Echostar 510 DVR (mpeg2).

2. We never get a chance to see the shows 'live' so are watching them from DVR recordings.

3. The satellite receiver is connected via composite cables through an AV receiver (soon to be connected via S-Video when I rewire this coming weekend or next).

4. My WEGAgate settings for this input are almost identical to Dark Rain's SD cable settings, including the redpush fix (other than Picture & Color, which are probably slightly higher...but not much).

5. I don't really notice this in other shows, but typically the other stuff we watch are brighter type channels/shows, like HGTV, etc.

6. It is not present when watching our non-progressive scan DVD player, or playing X-Box. (DVD feed is currently going through the same video input on the TV as the SD satellite feed, XBox is going via component to a different input)

Question: Think this is a result of Dish Networks compression, the SciFi channel feed, or the DVR's compression (not really sure how much its doing)? Or does this sound like a settings issue?

Thank you very much in advance!

Hi folks!
We're pretty pleased with our KDF-E42A10, but I have an issue I am trying to troubleshoot. I am trying to determine if this is a broadcast issue or something I can alleviate via some WEGAGate settings.

Problem: During dark programs, like Sci-Fi's Battlestar Galactica or last weeks Stargate Atlantis episode, we'll see macroblocking in the shadows.

The facts:
1. Dish Network is the service provider. The receiver is an Echostar 510 DVR (mpeg2).

2. We never get a chance to see the shows 'life' so are watching them from DVR recordings.

3. The satellite receiver is connected via composite cables through an AV receiver (soon to be connected via S-Video when I rewire this coming weekend or next).

4. My WEGAgate settings for this input are almost identical to Dark Rain's SD cable settings, including the redpush fix (other than Picture & Color, which are probably slightly higher...but not much).

5. I don't really notice this in other shows, but typically the other stuff we watch are brighter type channels/shows, like HGTV, etc.

6. It is not present when watching our non-progressive scan DVD player, or playing X-Box. (DVD feed is currently going through the same video input on the TV as the SD satellite feed, XBox is going via component to a different input)

Question: Think this is a result of Dish Networks compression or SciFi channel feed, the DVR's compression (not really sure how much its doing)? Or does this sound like a settings issue?

Thank you very much in advance!
This sounds like a result of Dish Network's compression. I also have Dish and one thing that I do is turn the sharpness setting way down when receiving poor quality SD signals. This makes the edges of the macroblocks a bit less distracting.

My guess is that either your TV is bad, the VGA cable is bad, or the adapter in your PC is deciding to loose sync periodically.

Is the picture rock solid on video 7, or does it fade in and out when this happens?


Picture is rock solid....no issues at all. Just the Video 7 label keeps popping up. I am using a 3d Fuzion nvidia 6200 VGA out. Had same connection hooked up to Infocus X1 with no sync issues.

I have the e50a10 and sometimes plug my Dreamcast via a VGA adapter to the VGA input. The pictures shows up nice but i notice a "strobe"effect on the picture. Its usually in more bight areas of the screen and its not real intense or anything, just noticable. Can anyone explain this and will it hurt the TV and/or the Dreamcast.

I wish i could explain it a little better. The picture looks real nice and bright but if you look in some areas there is just this slight strobing.

Hey Character Zero, have you tried the "IT" DVD yet? It's pretty awesome looking!

If you are using a non-supported VGA resolution, refresh rate or video timings, the VIDEO7 label can re-appear at regular intervals.

Try setting your PC display settings "ADVANCED MODE" to match with one of the resolutions and refresh rates that is listed in the user manual.

good news, I guess
If I unplug EVERY other cable to the tv but the vga cable, the pic clears up. If i plug anything back in, the pic goes back to *****. Anybody know of a fix for this?
I have alot of audio equipment and computers hooked up and have no hum or distortion on anything else so I dont think it is the house wiring.

http://www.21best.com/21_best/electronic/security/video/filters/for_sale_.html#HUMplug

Ground loop fixes

rollyfoster:

I have watched the "IT" DVD and it does look awsome. I saw Widespread on ACL last saturday and it looked really good. PBS says that its not HD, just widescreen, but it looked near-HD to me.

Hi folks!
We're pretty pleased with our KDF-E42A10, but I have an issue I am trying to troubleshoot. I am trying to determine if this is a broadcast issue or something I can alleviate via some WEGAGate settings.

Problem: During dark programs, like Sci-Fi's Battlestar Galactica or last weeks Stargate Atlantis episode, we'll see macroblocking in the shadows.

The facts:
1. Dish Network is the service provider. The receiver is an Echostar 510 DVR (mpeg2).

2. We never get a chance to see the shows 'live' so are watching them from DVR recordings.

3. The satellite receiver is connected via composite cables through an AV receiver (soon to be connected via S-Video when I rewire this coming weekend or next).

4. My WEGAgate settings for this input are almost identical to Dark Rain's SD cable settings, including the redpush fix (other than Picture & Color, which are probably slightly higher...but not much).

5. I don't really notice this in other shows, but typically the other stuff we watch are brighter type channels/shows, like HGTV, etc.

6. It is not present when watching our non-progressive scan DVD player, or playing X-Box. (DVD feed is currently going through the same video input on the TV as the SD satellite feed, XBox is going via component to a different input)

Question: Think this is a result of Dish Networks compression, the SciFi channel feed, or the DVR's compression (not really sure how much its doing)? Or does this sound like a settings issue?

Thank you very much in advance!


As mentioned above this is due to Dish's overcompressed signal. I get the same thing on Fox during 24. Unfortunately here in Maine the local Fox affiliate forgot to apply for a digital frequency so they don't plan on broadcasting HD until the deadline :mad: By the way, it isn't just Dish. A friend of my gets the same thing on D* with a rear projection CRT.

Has anyone had or can think of any problems of me hooking up a 30' dvi to hdmi cable from my computer to the e42a10... i would like to use it as a monitor for displaying from my computer: tv, games, and hdtv signals... i would like to have some input before i go ahead and buy this cable ! Also, what type of resolutions are possible with the vga input?

thanks !

-Chris

I get the same thing on Fox during 24

Ditto here. I am using a D* setup. I really haven't noticed it on any other feed other then this show.

Just picked up a cable card for my e50A10 and called the cable co to activate. They said that Sony has advised them that the TV should be left on for 24 hours to receive the activation signal. If the TV is not on for this period, it will not receive the activation signal.

I am in Houston with Time Warner. Has anyone heard of this? I hate to leave my TV on for 24 hours. Could this be accurate?

Thanks.

Hi guys. Been lurking for a while now but seeing as I've just purchased the 42A10 on the weekend, thought I would join.

TV has been great, however did notice something alarming today. Was watching a DVD and noticed the picture cut out for around 15 sec. The green light was flashing and then came back. Later that same night while watching TV, the same thing happend. Where I would be watching and then it would go black for around 15 sec. happend 3 times over an hour. It's not the STB as the DVD and STP are connected directly to the TV. Any help would be appreciated...Don't know what I should do here.

BTW, HD is awesome.

Just picked up a cable card for my e50A10 and called the cable co to activate. They said that Sony has advised them that the TV should be left on for 24 hours to receive the activation signal. If the TV is not on for this period, it will not receive the activation signal.

I am in Houston with Time Warner. Has anyone heard of this? I hate to leave my TV on for 24 hours. Could this be accurate?

Thanks.

Sounds like utter BS to me. I have no experience witih Cablecards, but the activation signal should happen within 15mins for a cable box. Here in Austin it's instant basically, you call an automated number, put in your phone number linked to the account, and bam, time pops up on your box. This is with Time Warner Austin. I mean, if you do it, you should have it up and working in a few minutes. If not, then I guess maybe there is some validity to what they say, but I doubt it.

I have Cox in Texas. I got the cablecard installed in my 42A10 and it came on within a couple of minutes. It has worked great. Every once and I while I have to go to the Wegagate menu under cable card and do a reset. It then scans and reprograms itself. Only takes about 1 minute. Not sure as I have had to do this maybe 4 times in the last 4 months. I have never had to call Cox to reset or anything. I think picture quality is a little better with the cablecard than the set top box.

Hi guys. Been lurking for a while now but seeing as I've just purchased the 42A10 on the weekend, thought I would join.

TV has been great, however did notice something alarming today. Was watching a DVD and noticed the picture cut out for around 15 sec. The green light was flashing and then came back. Later that same night while watching TV, the same thing happend. Where I would be watching and then it would go black for around 15 sec. happend 3 times over an hour. It's not the STB as the DVD and STP are connected directly to the TV. Any help would be appreciated...Don't know what I should do here.

BTW, HD is awesome.

Sounds like she is sick. Take it back and get another one.

On a panel LCD, every pixel (millions of them) has to refresh individually when the screen changes, so really fast motion has a tendency to blur as the pixels have to refresh constantly. That's not a problem with these TVs since there is a light engine that takes care of it.


Is there a setting I'm missing? I still get insane amounts of blur both off air HD signals and my Xbox 360. Enough, especially on the 360, to completely blur out fine details in backgrounds.

I also get a weird ghosting where fast motion looks as though it's missing out on a few frames of animation. A ball in a sports game, if moving fast enough, will look like it's clipping across the screen leaving a slight ghost-ball behind it.

The edges of buildings in racing games look like this: ||____ instead of : |____ like there's a ghost edge behind the static one as I drive past.

I know it's not just my set since I see it on the store's display and even on other LCD panels. So I've been wondering what setting I'm overlooking? I, too, thought these newer LCDs fixed the latency problems.

:( :confused:

Any one have any ideas about what is going on here?

My set is having difficulty powering down. I press power, the light goes off, but the tv is still on (for instance, I can press Wega Gate and a menu pops up). Also, while antenna channels are working just fine, none of my video inputs show any picture.

I am really confused as to why both of these things would go out at the same time. I don't suppose anyone else knows of any other (safe) ways to turn the tv off. I would rather not just unplug it.

Any advice is much appreciated. The tv is only a couple of months old and I was really looking forward to watching the superbowl on it.

Before getting too concerned I would unplug your set and leave it unplugged for about 5 minutes. Several people have had weird problems and this proceedure resets the computers. Worth a try! Good Luck!

I have a little bit of a problem, maybe you guys can help me out. I'm trying to connect my laptop to my 42A10. I bought a HDB15 male to male cable and I connected it but I still get "no signal".......the manual asks for a HD15 cable.....is this any different then the HDB15 cable? Thanks

Yeah, I did a better search and found a couple of instances where it happened. So I took the plunge, pulled the plug, and sure enough it turned back on. Working fine now, although the UPS system is acting up now. I wonder if it is related.

Thanks, fortnerw

Is there a setting I'm missing? I still get insane amounts of blur both off air HD signals and my Xbox 360. Enough, especially on the 360, to completely blur out fine details in backgrounds.

I also get a weird ghosting where fast motion looks as though it's missing out on a few frames of animation. A ball in a sports game, if moving fast enough, will look like it's clipping across the screen leaving a slight ghost-ball behind it.

The edges of buildings in racing games look like this: ||____ instead of : |____ like there's a ghost edge behind the static one as I drive past.

I know it's not just my set since I see it on the store's display and even on other LCD panels. So I've been wondering what setting I'm overlooking? I, too, thought these newer LCDs fixed the latency problems.

I have a 360 as well, and use brighthouse cable for my HD, and have never experienced what you are talking about. On some channels I will get motion artifacts (pixelization, macroblocking) but that has to do with the signal being compressed. I've never had a "blur" caused by motion. It sounds like an issue with your tv.

Yeah, I did a better search and found a couple of instances where it happened. So I took the plunge, pulled the plug, and sure enough it turned back on. Working fine now, although the UPS system is acting up now. I wonder if it is related.

Thanks, fortnerw

A few months ago mine stopped switching formats (720>1080) but would lock up whenever it tried. I scheduled for a service tech to come out. In the meantime I had to unplug the set to get behind the cabinet. After I plugged it back in, No more problems and it's been fine since. So anybody having anything out of the ordinary happening, I would recommend unplugging the set for a few minutes as the first step in troubleshooting.

I have a 360 as well, and use brighthouse cable for my HD, and have never experienced what you are talking about. On some channels I will get motion artifacts (pixelization, macroblocking) but that has to do with the signal being compressed. I've never had a "blur" caused by motion. It sounds like an issue with your tv.


I'm having service look at it for tilt correction next week so I'll ask about it then. I don't have much faith in the local service techs, though. >.>

Would you mind if I asked what settings you're using for the 360? I'll try those and see if it clears it up any. If it doesn't I'll swap it for a new one and pray it's not just an issue with my eyes being too sensitive or somesuch.

Thanks for your help. ^^

quick question: when i was changing the video settings, i believe it changed the settings for all the inputs. is there something i have to enable to get different settings for different inputs. maybe i'm just seeing things. i'll have to check it out when i go home. thanks for your help.

btw, i've got the 42".

I believe mine is input specific.

I find it funny I can't post an image link showing people my blur problem until after I've posted 5 times. They say it's because of spam but since I'll have to post 5 times to be able to do it it's encouraging me to spam the forums until I can post the link.

On topic, however, I'd like to ask if anyone else even notices the ghosting/movement blur I described before. I've seen it on almost all the LCD Projection tvs in the stores and especially on the Sony display for this model. Pictures to come... sometime.

Hibiki, are you on acid?

J.K.

I've never seen any ghosting on my set. The only time I ever see any double image is if i'm standing directly above it from an inch away. are you sure of the content you're watching isn't SD

Regarding the Ghosting, I've got the 42" A10, and haven't noticed any ghosting at all. I've got my Xbox 360 hooked up through component at 720p, and I also get HD channels and SD cable channels and haven't noticed any bit of ghosting at all.

Fellow AVSers,
I've narrowed my selection of HDTV's down to the 50A10 or the Samsung HLR5067 (join the club, right?). I was at CC over the weekend trying to compare the two sets and the guy was playing back an HD-DVR recording of the Broncos/Steelers game from a couple of weeks ago. He pointed out what appeared to be motion blur on the Sony where there was none on the Samsung. I must admit that my eyes seemed to notice it too. I've searched this thread and the overwhelming concesus seems to be that the Sony does not display motion blur. I guess it could be what you guys call macroblocking but how would that show on the Sony and not the Samsung if they were both using the same source? Is it possible that certain people's eyes are more sensitive to motion blur in the same way that some people see rainbows on DLP and others don't?
BTW, I did like the PQ on the Sony much better than the Samsung but the (perceived) motion problem has me quite worried.

Fellow AVSers,
I've narrowed my selection of HDTV's down to the 50A10 or the Samsung HLR5067 (join the club, right?). I was at CC over the weekend trying to compare the two sets and the guy was playing back an HD-DVR recording of the Broncos/Steelers game from a couple of weeks ago. He pointed out what appeared to be motion blur on the Sony where there was none on the Samsung. I must admit that my eyes seemed to notice it too. I've searched this thread and the overwhelming concesus seems to be that the Sony does not display motion blur. I guess it could be what you guys call macroblocking but how would that show on the Sony and not the Samsung if they were both using the same source? Is it possible that certain people's eyes are more sensitive to motion blur in the same way that some people see rainbows on DLP and others don't?
BTW, I did like the PQ on the Sony much better than the Samsung but the (perceived) motion problem has me quite worried.

That is confusing. The way I have heard and understood it was that it would be the other way around also. It's definitely not macroblocking, you'd know if it was doing that.

Hibiki, are you on acid?

J.K.

I've never seen any ghosting on my set. The only time I ever see any double image is if i'm standing directly above it from an inch away. are you sure of the content you're watching isn't SD


That's actually one of the reasons I'm asking... I really don't know if it's just my eyes or if there's something wrong with the set. Once I hit 5 posts I'll show you a pic of Super Mario World that I took with my phone. It's not quite as noticable as the pic shows since it's happening so fast, but what the pic shows is exactly what I see happening.

It's as though there's three images. One _before_ the main image, and one behind. Like the LCDs are leading into the next frame and not quite shutting down fast enough after that frame is gone.

You'll see what I mean. As more people say they can't see it I'm more inclined to believe it's a problem with the set. I hopes. >.>

And yes, it happens on every input regardless of resolution. I thought it was an up/downconverting problem at first but even the 360 running at 720p does it. (Call of Duty 2 is a blurry mess when I pan and move faster than a walk) the pics I took of Call of Duty 2 showed the same thing the Mario World one did but just not as clearly. The Mario World one (off the PC input) showed what I'm talking about very clearly.

That's actually one of the reasons I'm asking... I really don't know if it's just my eyes or if there's something wrong with the set. Once I hit 5 posts I'll show you a pic of Super Mario World that I took with my phone. It's not quite as noticable as the pic shows since it's happening so fast, but what the pic shows is exactly what I see happening.

It's as though there's three images. One _before_ the main image, and one behind. Like the LCDs are leading into the next frame and not quite shutting down fast enough after that frame is gone.

You'll see what I mean. As more people say they can't see it I'm more inclined to believe it's a problem with the set. I hopes. >.>

And yes, it happens on every input regardless of resolution. I thought it was an up/downconverting problem at first but even the 360 running at 720p does it. (Call of Duty 2 is a blurry mess when I pan and move faster than a walk) the pics I took of Call of Duty 2 showed the same thing the Mario World one did but just not as clearly. The Mario World one (off the PC input) showed what I'm talking about very clearly.

when you press display on the sony remote, what format shows (720,1080, etc)? As far as my settings for the 360 they are as follows:

Picture Mode: Custom
Iris: 2
Picture: 76
Brightness: 52
Color: 44
Hue: G2
Color Temp: Neutral
Sharpness: 30
Noise Reduction: Off

Advanced Settings:
Black Corrector: Off
Adv. Iris: Off
Gamma: Low
Clear White: Low
Live Color: Low

These settings are after I applied the red push fix. I have a big window behind my sofa, so these setting change somewhat depending on time of day, brightness outside.

On the tweaks thread, there are alot of other members who post their settings, the most notable are deconvolver and darkrain.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=567709&page=1&pp=30

Thanks Shozbot. I'm going to try your settings in a little while (minus the service-menu red push fix, I'm not comfortable poking around in there. >.> )

I checked it on each of the inputs with various sources. For the Xbox I have it set to 720p with the HD cables (and the switch on the cables set to HD) and when I press "Display" I get 720p. I've also tried it on 1080i just to see if it helps but it was almost exactly the same.

I'm also unplugging and plugging my tv back in, just in case. I had it on a power strip before but this time when I plug it in it's going directly to wall socket. I don't think it'll help but at this point I'll dance around in a chicken outfit waving a Wacky Noodle at the set to get it do what I want. >.>

[edit]

I tried your settings and they made the set look really nice. I could still see the blur but it was more of a ghosting clip than blur, except on things like walls (Call of Duty 2 panning, loss of all detail in brick walls)

Here's the Super Mario World pics. These are off my computer running an emulator through the PC input in the back of the set. The top picture is when everything is still, the bottom is when there is movement.

http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/4199/blur6lk.jpg

I took these with my phone so the ghosting is a little more pronounced but gives a good idea of what I'm actually seeing. ANY movement will make it look this way to me be it in 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i, or off the PC input. The Xbox 360 running in 720p has this same effect just not quite as blatantly. More than enough to be apparent, though.

So, seeing this, is it something everyone can just overlook easily and all sets have? Or do you think it's a defect with my specific set? (I'm so hoping it's just a defect, I really like the tv)

[edit]

Take special note of the mid-level flag poles (the white and blue striped poles behind Mario in the bottom pic) and the brown and blue speaker box on the right side.

[edit Part Two]

Someone on another forum mentioned the pixel response rate. Apparently anything higher than 8(whatever the measurement is) would be susceptible to ghosting like this and optimal would be 4... although even 4 can show ghosting sometimes.

Does anyone know the response rate for these sonys? Would there be a (safe!) setting in the service menu to change to quicken things up a little? If not I have a feeling I'll be taking this set back in exchange for a DLP at this rate. -_-

Are you sure that your specific TV set is not broken?

Maybe if you return it for a different set, the blurring will go away.

I do not see this kind of blurring when watching sports in HD on my 42A10

I don't use the A10 for gaming, so I am not a good judge of this problem.

I have a little bit of a problem, maybe you guys can help me out. I'm trying to connect my laptop to my 42A10. I bought a HDB15 male to male cable and I connected it but I still get "no signal".......the manual asks for a HD15 cable.....is this any different then the HDB15 cable? Thanks
Anyone?

I was just in CC and went with the Sony because i really thought the PQ was noticably better and i swear everytime i thought i had my mind made up the salesman would push me back to the Samsung.I had a friend in there the other day who bought the 42" Sony and he told me the same thing that the salesperson was really giving the Sammy the hard push.Does anyone know why the CC staff is trying to push the Samsungs and bad mouth the Sony's.

I was just in CC and went with the Sony because i really thought the PQ was noticably better and i swear everytime i thought i had my mind made up the salesman would push me back to the Samsung.I had a friend in there the other day who bought the 42" Sony and he told me the same thing that the salesperson was really giving the Sammy the hard push.Does anyone know why the CC staff is trying to push the Samsungs and bad mouth the Sony's.

I didn't personally have that experience when I purchased my set, actually the salespeople at circuit city were pretty UNhelpful with regard to recommending any set. I felt as if I was pulling them away from their real job, which I assumed to be leaning against the counter and talking to each other. :rolleyes:

Anyway, I know they don't get commision but they may get incentives from different companies for selling their product, or maybe they have an overstock of certain items they are trying to move. Those are just guesses though.

Here's the Super Mario World pics. These are off my computer running an emulator through the PC input in the back of the set. The top picture is when everything is still, the bottom is when there is movement.

http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/4199/blur6lk.jpg

I took these with my phone so the ghosting is a little more pronounced but gives a good idea of what I'm actually seeing. ANY movement will make it look this way to me be it in 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i, or off the PC input. The Xbox 360 running in 720p has this same effect just not quite as blatantly. More than enough to be apparent, though.

So, seeing this, is it something everyone can just overlook easily and all sets have? Or do you think it's a defect with my specific set? (I'm so hoping it's just a defect, I really like the tv)

[edit]

Take special note of the mid-level flag poles (the white and blue striped poles behind Mario in the bottom pic) and the brown and blue speaker box on the right side.

[edit Part Two]

Someone on another forum mentioned the pixel response rate. Apparently anything higher than 8(whatever the measurement is) would be susceptible to ghosting like this and optimal would be 4... although even 4 can show ghosting sometimes.

Does anyone know the response rate for these sonys? Would there be a (safe!) setting in the service menu to change to quicken things up a little? If not I have a feeling I'll be taking this set back in exchange for a DLP at this rate. -_-

That blur seems pretty extreme. I have never noticed anything like that with mine, and I watch football every weekend, lots of basketball, play COD2, madden and several other games on the 360, and have played my original xbox without any issues.

What I recommend doing is taking your 360 to the store and plugging into the sony set and the sammy set. See if there is any difference. I know it seems like a hassle, but so is returning your tv only to find out it happens again.

I was just in CC and went with the Sony because i really thought the PQ was noticably better and i swear everytime i thought i had my mind made up the salesman would push me back to the Samsung.I had a friend in there the other day who bought the 42" Sony and he told me the same thing that the salesperson was really giving the Sammy the hard push.Does anyone know why the CC staff is trying to push the Samsungs and bad mouth the Sony's.

It's obvious, Sony markup has always been, and is still very minor. The profit margin on a Sony is going to be a lot less than a Samsung is my guess. Someone who knows better can chime in, who knows the "at cost" prices.

OK, really stupid noobie HD question. I bought the 42A10 2 days ago, as soon as I got it set up, I watched a basketball game on ESPNHD and it was amazing. I used DarkCloud's settings (thanks) and the picture was great. Last night I went to watch some more HD and I had black boxes at the top and bottom of the screen (didn't fill the whole screen). It was the same way on all of the HD channels.

Did my wife mess something up when I was at work or is it the way they are broadcasted?

Sorry for the stupid question and thanks for any answers.

Regarding maverick0716's HD15 cable question

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
maverick0716,
I think the only difference between the HDB15 and HD15 types is the shielding so this should not be an issue.
Since you are using a laptop, perhaps the problem is the unit "recognizing" the 2nd monitor; this can be tricky with laptops so triple check the display settings of your laptop. May I suggest temporarily trying a desktop comp if possible; this is probably configured for a single monitor only and should find the TV's PC input without a problem.
The problem could also de a defect in the cable so try exchanging if the store allows, just in case. I was lucky enough to have an old crt monitor that had a standard VGA cable that was not permanently connected at the monitor end (both ends had the proper male connectors). This cable worked great on the A10's PC input.

Does anyone know the response rate for these sonys?

I have read 12ms. on several sales websites (just by googling 'kdf-e42a10 response time'), but could find nothing to confirm that on Sony's site.

I was just in CC and went with the Sony because i really thought the PQ was noticably better and i swear everytime i thought i had my mind made up the salesman would push me back to the Samsung.I had a friend in there the other day who bought the 42" Sony and he told me the same thing that the salesperson was really giving the Sammy the hard push.Does anyone know why the CC staff is trying to push the Samsungs and bad mouth the Sony's.

my buddy told me that they're phasing out the current 42" sammy DLP in favor of a newer set, so this may be why CC is trying to unload their inventory.

also, just to add to that, none of my local best buy's have had the 42" sammy DLP in stock for weeks (Massachusetts), so maybe they're not buying any more of the current sets if infact sammy is coming out with a new version of the 42" DLP.

OK now i have a real newbie problem,i just had the comcast guy come and hook up the hd for my 50" sony.i have a philips mx 5600 home theatre system.everything ishooked upgreat except i am having trouble getting my surroundsound to work when i am watching tv.works great on dvd's.i had it working before with the digital box.any ideas or do i need to provide more info. thanks

OK now i have a real newbie problem,i just had the comcast guy come and hook up the hd for my 50" sony.i have a philips mx 5600 home theatre system.everything ishooked upgreat except i am having trouble getting my surroundsound to work when i am watching tv.works great on dvd's.i had it working before with the digital box.any ideas or do i need to provide more info. thanks

They probably didn't give you a cable for it. You need either a digital coax or optical cable to get it working with your surround sound. I'm assuming you got the Motorola 6412 DVR cable box?

my buddy told me that they're phasing out the current 42" sammy DLP in favor of a newer set, so this may be why CC is trying to unload their inventory.

also, just to add to that, none of my local best buy's have had the 42" sammy DLP in stock for weeks (Massachusetts), so maybe they're not buying any more of the current sets if infact sammy is coming out with a new version of the 42" DLP.


Sony also has a lower commission price than just about everyone else. You buying the Sammy = more $$$ in his pocket!

Hey folks,

Just bought the 42. Overall, pretty impressed with it. However, a few things trouble me with it that I never noticed on any sets that I looked at in the stores. I have a DVR/Cable box and hooked up with components.

I think I am seeing excessive SSE. At first, I thought this was SDE, but I am not close enough to be seeing that. Essentially, on lighter colored areas ... I can see what appears to be the screen if you know what I mean. This is okay. I have to learn not to focus on it. But, I think it may be causing problems that I am seeing with lines on the screen. The far edge of a sideline watching basketball appears blurry or almost like it is moving when the camera pans left and right.

What concerns me is ... is this just inherent with these TVs? Or is it more exaggerated on mine than on others? If it is what it is, I am fine with that. I just want to make sure I have the "is what it is" and not something that is worse than usual. A friend recommended playing with Velocity Modulation. But, I don't see that as an option on the settings menu.

Any recommendations from folks with PS2s? I have Madden and it looks like crap.

Also ... does anyone have video noise when changing channels? Or crackling speaker noise when changing the channels?

Thanks in advance for all your help.

Anyone?

Just a thought. Most laptops I have owned require some sort of key press or menu choice to output video on the VGA output. The video output if disabled by default. At least on the laptops that I have owned. Perhaps that is the problem.

Again, just a thought.

I think I am seeing excessive SSE. At first, I thought this was SDE, but I am not close enough to be seeing that. Essentially, on lighter colored areas ... I can see what appears to be the screen if you know what I mean. This is okay. I have to learn not to focus on it. But, I think it may be causing problems that I am seeing with lines on the screen. The far edge of a sideline watching basketball appears blurry or almost like it is moving when the camera pans left and right.

What's your viewing distance to the TV? I've just got the 42" A10 as well, and do see SSE, though my viewing distance is only 6' due to the apartment size. If I stand in the hallway further away from the TV (roughly 7-8') the SSE disappears...maybe you're sitting too close to the TV?

You could also try turning down your brightness...I highly recommend Dark Rain's video settings (linked in his Signature, a few posts above this) if you haven't tried them already.



Also ... does anyone have video noise when changing channels? Or crackling speaker noise when changing the channels?

I don't get any noise when changing channels, no crackling for sure.

You'll always see SSE no matter the distance. SDE will disappear the further you get back from the TV. SSE seems to lessen the more you watch the TV. Give it a few weeks or maybe a month. I still notice it on occasion, but I don't obsess over it like I did when I first got the TV.

Any recommendations from folks with PS2s? I have Madden and it looks like crap.

Also ... does anyone have video noise when changing channels? Or crackling speaker noise when changing the channels?

Thanks in advance for all your help.
I would highly recommend buying the component cables for your PS2. It did wonders to the picture quality; with the composite video cables, for me, it looked like garbage.

What type of video noise are you referring to? I'm using a SA8300HD box and there is some video "noise" only when the box changes its output format. For instance, if the box is sending 1080i (say on NBC) and I change to a channel broadcasting in 720p (FOX) then there is about a half-second of funk before the picture appears. Changing channels from a 1080i source to another 1080i source results in zero video "noise." You could always have your box always output the same format, but I think the A10 has a better scaler.

That blur seems pretty extreme. I have never noticed anything like that with mine, and I watch football every weekend, lots of basketball, play COD2, madden and several other games on the 360, and have played my original xbox without any issues.

What I recommend doing is taking your 360 to the store and plugging into the sony set and the sammy set. See if there is any difference. I know it seems like a hassle, but so is returning your tv only to find out it happens again.

At least now I know what I'm looking for and avoiding. I do hope it's just a defect with the set because I really do love the set. Everything is perfect for me except for this problem.

As I said, my phone made it look worse than it really is, but it's a good illustration of what I see if there's panning. What I'm worried is that it's completely normal and my eyes are just overly sensitive to it. :O

Thanks, everyone, for all your help. Now I at least have a good plan of action where I'm not constantly taking tvs back or waiting on service to tell me it's "supposed to be like that" >.>

I'm taking my Sega Nomad in tonight and plugging it in to every LCD/DLP set they have. If I don't see this blur on the background for Sonic the Hedgehog I probably will never notice it. ^^

Alright, latest update on my bean-shaped blue blob issue.
Light engine was replaced yesterday, and the blob is gone.

hey nik54, not sure if you're still actively reading this thread or not...but what were the steps you went through to get the light engine replaced by sony? I called them up yesterday about the blue blob on my display, they had me unplug the tv for a minute, and that didn't fix it, then they said to unplug it for a half hour and to call back if that didn't fix it either. last night I unplugged it for over half an hour and the blue blob's still there, so I've got to call back tonight.

did the service guy come ready with the light engine, or did he look at the tv first and then order the light engine and come back another time?

I've also posted in this thread about a blurr on fast movong sports such as hockey and passes in football. It's not ghosting but more that the camera can't keep all objects in focus at the same time during movements. I've gotten numerous reponses and all seem to say it's the source / compression....

After watching more and more I can defintley see differences depending on the source.

My cable guy was at my home during an HDTV hockey broadcast and noticed it as well. He said my picture was great and he sees the same on his buddies Aqious Plasma. Told me it was not my TV.

The cameras just can't keep up with the action. Hopefully the technolgy will get better and everyone will jump on board.

Anyone with any thoughts/comments?

I've also posted in this thread about a blurr on fast movong sports such as hockey and passes in football. It's not ghosting but more that the camera can't keep all objects in focus at the same time during movements. I've gotten numerous reponses and all seem to say it's the source / compression....

After wathing more and more I can defintley see differences depending on the source.

My cable guy was at my home during an HDTV hockey broadcast and noticed it as well. He said my picture was great and he sees the same on his buddies Aqious Plasma. Told me it was not my TV.

The cameras just can't keep up with the action. Hopefully the technolgy will get better and everyone will jump on board.

Anyone with any thoughts/comments?

I have posted on this issue several times as well. Everything points to source and camera focus as stated above. Basic photography would suggest that a camera cannot focus on multiple objects moving at different speeds (the ball and players) while in motion (panning) itself. I think the fact that the A10's display is so sharp and clear makes the blur look more noticeable than it would be on another display such as a CRT. I will find out for sure when I watch the game Sunday on a friend's HD CRT RP. I have heard that when director's start framing sporting events for 16x9 screens that the issue will get a lot better since the camera will not have to pan as much in order to keep the play on the screen. As to how this relates to blur on a video game I'm not sure :)