I'm on the verge of a purchase. I'm sitting 8-9 feet away and am thinking of getting the 50 A10. I think at this distance the 42 is the better size, but I hope to move out of this tiny apartment in the next two years and with a bigger place the 50 would work better. So I'll probably be buying the 50 for the future. But now the 2006 models are announced and the only benefit I see is the extra HDMI. But by the time I need a second HDMI input I should probably upgrade my HT receiver to one that does HDMI switching. The receiver would have multiple HDMI inputs. Any thoughts?

http://news.sel.sony.com/pressrelease/6571

LAS VEGAS, March 16, 2006 - Strengthening its runaway market leadership position in the micro-display rear projection television category, Sony Electronics today introduced three new Grand WEGA™ 3LCD models.


The new line - which features 46-, 50- and 55-inch models - is designed for those looking for a big-screen HDTV experience, along with exceptional value.


Sony's new 3LCD microdisplay television line features the same exceptional picture quality and performance that has led to it being number one in the category, which, as of March 13 has reached close to 59 percent (dollars) and 55 percent (units) according to The NPD Group, a Port Washington, N.Y.-based market tracking firm.


"Grand WEGA has been the shining star of the micro-display sector since tracking began five years ago and our new models look to continue this legacy of success," said Randy Waynick, senior vice president of the Home Products Division for Sony Electronics. "Offering greater flexibility, deeper features and outstanding picture quality, the new line delivers HDTV at a very reasonable price."


Sony's new 3LCD line includes the 55-inch KDF-55E2000, the 50-inch KDF-50E2000 and the 46-inch KDF-46E2000. Featuring a compact frame design with bottom speaker, the models offer great placement flexibility fitting into cabinets and smaller spaces than traditional microdisplays.


The new models feature Sony's WEGA Engine™ video processing system, which reduces digital video artifacts and Cinema Black Pro for deep black image reproduction. Additionally, the models offer two HDMI inputs and a high-definition front component input for HDV camcorders. They are capable of receiving a WXGA PC signal via HDMI inputs with a DVI to HDMI adapter cable (sold separately).


The KDF-55E2000 and KDF-50E2000 units will ship early this summer for about $3,000 and $2,500, respectively, while the KDF-46E2000 model will be available in mid-summer for about $2,200.



So the 42 inch size will be discontinued ?? If so, I better get into the buying mode as our entertainment center will just barely accomodate the 42 incher.

Kevin

Has Anyone noticed on Comcast HD watching the NCAA tournament occasionaly the picture blurs in spots for a split second.
I have only seen this in College BBall games.
All of a sudden a players face will blur and sometimes the score bar will as well.

My guess is its a source problem from CBS

I have the 42A10 connected to Comcast Motorola HD DVR via HDMI

The problem isn't CBS national.

Looks fine on my 42A10 and the local CBS OTA station.

Someone please confirm what I think I know....there's no way to invoke captions while viewing without going into the settings menu, right? :( Or have I overlooked something? (I hope so.)

I sure miss the caption button on the last tv I had....you could even set it to come on automatically when the sound was muted....nice.

hey guys i was wondering if i hook up an ota antenna to my 50a10 will i only recieve the same hd channels i recive on my stb, or will i possibly be able to recive more channels?

hey guys i was wondering if i hook up an ota antenna to my 50a10 will i only recieve the same hd channels i recive on my stb, or will i possibly be able to recive more channels?

Go to http://www.antennaweb.org/aw/Address.aspx put in your address and drill down to the digital channels, then your street map. It tells you which direction to aim your antenna.

(This is a great thread.)

Do folks run their component DVD video through the AV receiver? Do folks run their component video from their cable box through the AV receiver? My local (knowledgeable) audio guy said that the picture should look fine for each. Yet, since I can't get a picture from the cable box component video through the AV receiver (just colored lines), there is nothing to "switch" to using this feature and I might as well connect the DVD component video directly to the 42A10 instead of going through the Yamaha RX V457.

Anyone use this feature (component switching on an AV reveiver) successfully?

(This is a great thread.)

Do folks run their component DVD video through the AV receiver? Do folks run their component video from their cable box through the AV receiver? My local (knowledgeable) audio guy said that the picture should look fine for each. Yet, since I can't get a picture from the cable box component video through the AV receiver (just colored lines), there is nothing to "switch" to using this feature and I might as well connect the DVD component video directly to the 42A10 instead of going through the Yamaha RX V457.

Anyone use this feature (component switching on an AV reveiver) successfully?

I run my DVD thru my AV amp via componet cables and it works fine. I guess you could run the DVD video directly to TV as long as the video matched the audio (lip sync).

I'm sure this question has been asked and answered before, but why is there no talk about Sony Grand Wega sets (A10 or A20) producing 1080p resolution like their big brother SXRD sets? I have been following the vast wasteland we call the AVS Forum for several months now, and have not run across this idea.

I have read with interest the generic details of Sony's new fall line-up. With much discussion about cabinet size, 1080p inputs and the like, I see nothing about upgrades to the new Gen VI Grand Wega sets in terms of 1080p resolution. Am I missing something here? Can LCD based RPTV's produce 1080p resolution?

I admit to being a fan of the Sony color palette. Although I love the SXRD sets, I will admit that there is something very likable (besides the lower price) about the A10 & A20 models. With so many concerns expressed on this message board about color inconsistencies with the SXRD sets, I read between the lines a greater satisfaction with the mature technology of LCD's. This may be a back door way of questioning the future of the Sony LCD based RPTV sets. Is LCoS/SXRD the future for the entire Sony line?

(This is a great thread.)

Do folks run their component DVD video through the AV receiver? Do folks run their component video from their cable box through the AV receiver? My local (knowledgeable) audio guy said that the picture should look fine for each. Yet, since I can't get a picture from the cable box component video through the AV receiver (just colored lines), there is nothing to "switch" to using this feature and I might as well connect the DVD component video directly to the 42A10 instead of going through the Yamaha RX V457.

Anyone use this feature (component switching on an AV reveiver) successfully?


I may be using an old school train of thought but I personally run video to my T.V and audio to my reciver so as to have the finest picture possible. I experience no audio delays or sync problems either though. I am sure you will be fine either way.

hey guys i was wondering if i hook up an ota antenna to my 50a10 will i only recieve the same hd channels i recive on my stb, or will i possibly be able to recive more channels?

When I run my OTA through my T.V I get about 22 digital channels here in flat Florida. When I instead run things through my Directv HR10-250 Tivo DVR I instead get about 8 or so.

Depending on the receiver you're mileage will very IMHO.

I may be using an old school train of thought but I personally run video to my T.V and audio to my reciver so as to have the finest picture possible. I experience no audio delays or sync problems either though. I am sure you will be fine either way.
Using video switching features of a receiver is definitely a convenience feature. I doubt that the picture gets degraded, if you use one of the better receivers. I started out with using the receiver originally for switching, but I went away from that.
The biggest drawback for me was that this doesn't allow different video settings for individual components. For me I use slightly different brightness and color setting for all my components (xbox, dvd, satbox, vhs), so I'm using individual inputs (and cables) for each.

Using video switching features of a receiver is definitely a convenience feature. I doubt that the picture gets degraded, if you use one of the better receivers. I started out with using the receiver originally for switching, but I went away from that.
The biggest drawback for me was that this doesn't allow different video settings for individual components. For me I use slightly different brightness and color setting for all my components (xbox, dvd, satbox, vhs), so I'm using individual inputs (and cables) for each.

Same here, I just didnt elaborate on the matter.

So I am watching West Wing on comcast HD NBC on my 42 A10
When the show started it was surrounded by black borders and only occupying the middle of the screen
So I wide zoom it and its letter boxed now.

I know west wing is wide screen why wouldn't it fill my wide screen tv?

Would using an HD Antenna aleviate this kind of stuff?

I just purchased a 50" A10 and a Bose 3-2-1 sound system. I have the A10 connected to an HD cable box. My only problem is a high-pitched whining noise which I believe is coming from the TV. The noise is constant and I am guessing that it is the fan in the TV since it stays on for a few minutes after I shut off the TV. Is this normal? I am actually considering returning the set because this noise is so irritating. Is there anything that can be done to reduce the noise.

I just purchased a 50" A10 and a Bose 3-2-1 sound system. I have the A10 connected to an HD cable box. My only problem is a high-pitched whining noise which I believe is coming from the TV. The noise is constant and I am guessing that it is the fan in the TV since it stays on for a few minutes after I shut off the TV. Is this normal? I am actually considering returning the set because this noise is so irritating. Is there anything that can be done to reduce the noise.


Are you sure its not coming from the cable box? I have a comcast motorola HD-DVR box that the hard drive has started to go on...its a whiny/squeal type noise that has really started to annoy.

Just checking, b/c I thought it was my tv at first, too.

Anyway, IF it is the tv, return it, the fan in these sets are very quiet (to me anyway).

Good luck.

So I am watching West Wing on comcast HD NBC on my 42 A10
When the show started it was surrounded by black borders and only occupying the middle of the screen
So I wide zoom it and its letter boxed now.

I know west wing is wide screen why wouldn't it fill my wide screen tv?

Would using an HD Antenna aleviate this kind of stuff?

Your local NBC affiliate didn't flip the switch for HD. It happens where I live on occasion. What you were getting was the SD feed.

It could also be a problem with the feed from NBC in New York. Sometimes it's on their end.

thanks lastplace and jmet. any recommendations for ota antennas?

thanks lastplace and jmet. any recommendations for ota antennas?

I highly recommend these guys:

http://www.antennasdirect.com/

I ordered the DB4 and put it in my attic....works great....could have gone with the DB2.

Call them and talk to a tech. They'll make a recommendation, and it's guaranteed. BTW, I got my antenna within 3 days after my order.

I just purchased a 50" A10 and a Bose 3-2-1 sound system. I have the A10 connected to an HD cable box. My only problem is a high-pitched whining noise which I believe is coming from the TV. The noise is constant and I am guessing that it is the fan in the TV since it stays on for a few minutes after I shut off the TV. Is this normal? I am actually considering returning the set because this noise is so irritating. Is there anything that can be done to reduce the noise.

My fan isn't noisy at all. If the TV is on, I can't even hear it at all.....and the little noise there is is a low pitch, not high pitch. I think something is wrong with it, or it's something else altogether.

thanks lastplace and jmet. any recommendations for ota antennas?


I went with the Channel Master 4228, A local shop came within a couple bucks of the internet price (including freight) so I bought it there. Mounted it in the attic and it works great. My path goes through a large oak tree, I hope the leaves don't effect my receiption this summer.

http://www.solidsignal.com/prod_display.asp?main_cat=03&CAT=&PROD=ANC4228

Are you sure its not coming from the cable box? I have a comcast motorola HD-DVR box that the hard drive has started to go on...its a whiny/squeal type noise that has really started to annoy.

Just checking, b/c I thought it was my tv at first, too.

Anyway, IF it is the tv, return it, the fan in these sets are very quiet (to me anyway).

Good luck.

Thanks, The Keither. I did at first think it was the cable box because I have had one make a similiar noise. But there is no noise when the A10 is off (and the cable box on) and it starts when the set is turned on and stops a few minutes after the set is turned off. I also thought it might be the Bose Acoustimass module interferring with the TV. The installers put it directly behind the A10. The manual recommends that it be placed 3 feet away. But I moved it and it doesn't seem to make a difference.

I am glad to hear that the noise is not normal. I love the picture!

My fan isn't noisy at all. If the TV is on, I can't even hear it at all.....and the little noise there is is a low pitch, not high pitch. I think something is wrong with it, or it's something else altogether.

Thanks, maverick0716. I am going to call the dealer today. Just wanted to know that the noise is not normal.

thanks lastplace and jmet. any recommendations for ota antennas?

Recently I upgraded my 25 yr. old RS 160" vhf/uhf on a 30' tower/rotor. I used Tigerbangs recommendations at www.highdefforum.com (he is an expert antenna person).
Used his formula: CM 4228 UHF antenna
CM 7777 Titan amp
Wade VIP-306 VHF antenna
CM 9521 rotor system

I now receive all Cleveland HD stations 50 miles away with no drop -offs and signal strength of 92-98 %. Some pics below:

Has Anyone noticed on Comcast HD watching the NCAA tournament occasionaly the picture blurs in spots for a split second.
I have only seen this in College BBall games.
All of a sudden a players face will blur and sometimes the score bar will as well.

My guess is its a source problem from CBS

I have the 42A10 connected to Comcast Motorola HD DVR via HDMI

I have Directv HD/50A10 and I noticed the exact same thing. Not a big deal but it was kind of strange. Where are you located? Maybe it could be regional problem?

CBS here in Virginia Beach had the same problem, also one of the channels broadcast in Dolby 1.1, sub and center channel only.

Been watching this thread for a while and thinking about buying the 42 inch Sony. Choosing between this or the new Vizio 42 inch plasma that I can get at Costco to take advantage of their liberal return policy. Sony will cost a couple hundred dollars more than the Vizio. I have the 50 inch Vizio as my main TV and the 42 inch Sony or Vizio would be for my bedroom. Viewing distance of around 11 ft. Anyone care to push me in one direction or the other?

Long story short. I have a new lamp coming in this week. The funny thing is that no suppliers stock this lamp in my area? The story that I got was that these bulbs have a very good life span and they do not go out that often? BTW this was a very reutable shop that was calling around for the lamp from his suppliers not just me calling around. One thing that I didn't mention before. The night before my lamp went out, I watched War of the Worlds on my new home theater system at a pretty loud volume. If you didn't already know, WOTW is a very good movie (one of the best) for testing your Subwoofer. I wonder if the high levels of bass shattered the lamp? The sub sits to the right of the TV, right next to the Lamp? Just a random thought.
Jim

Just an update. It was the lamp and it was replaced under warranty. 1 year warranty on all parts through Sony. TV is looking great again.
Jim

Thinking about getting this TV given recent price drops. Anyone know where it can be seen in person?

New 50A10 - and electronically challenged. I have a Comcast HD Box, DVD Player, Sony AV Home theater receiver and VCR. Yes, lots of cables and wires.

Do these external settings seem right:

Video 1 - Receiver w/ audio out
Video 2 -
Video 3 - VCR
Video 4 - HD Box
Video 5 - DVD Player

What I can't figure out is how do I get my home theater/receiver to broadcast in surround sound without losing the HD connection (which is Video 4)?

Also - the HD picture looks spectacular with just cable connection.
Is it worth it to get the HDMI cable?

thanks.

I have Directv HD/50A10 and I noticed the exact same thing. Not a big deal but it was kind of strange. Where are you located? Maybe it could be regional problem?

I am in Boston

New 50A10 - and electronically challenged. I have a Comcast HD Box, DVD Player, Sony AV Home theater receiver and VCR. Yes, lots of cables and wires.

Do these external settings seem right:

Video 1 - Receiver w/ audio out
Video 2 -
Video 3 - VCR
Video 4 - HD Box
Video 5 - DVD Player

What I can't figure out is how do I get my home theater/receiver to broadcast in surround sound without losing the HD connection (which is Video 4)?

Also - the HD picture looks spectacular with just cable connection.
Is it worth it to get the HDMI cable?


Use an optical or digital coax cable from the cable box to your receiver. Then put the receiver on the right output (video 1, etc.)

I am going to be buying a the KDF-E42A10 and I was wondering the measurments of the box.

The box measures 43" long x 18" deep x 33" +/- high.

Thinking about getting this TV given recent price drops. Anyone know where it can be seen in person?

Just about any big-box store has it.... Best Buy, Circuit City, Sears, Tweeter, Target.

I don't have a PS2 but I have a gamecube and with component cables it looks fantastic. I set it close to the VCR settings that Darkrain has and it's running at 480i so I have access to the DRC palette settings. The DRC makes a big difference for analog cable/vcr/480i stuff.

If you look at previous postings by me, I posted my Gamecube settings to this thread or the "Tweeks" thread.
Here is the link to my Gamecube settings.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7200466#post7200466

I am in Boston

I'm in New York. It's a strange problem, we'll see if it shows up again this week.

thanks lastplace and jmet. any recommendations for ota antennas?
There is an avs thread just for antennas here.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=381623

Alot of people like the ChannelMaster antenna and Antenna's Direct DB2/DB4. Some use the top of TV ones and have sucess with Silver Sensor.

I have a radio shack antenna a friend gave me and it works great - I am 8 miles out from Philly and get 98% reception on most channels (diagnostic menu).

Apologize ahead of time if this has been covered by I couldn't find anything when I searched. Just bought the 42 inch model last night and I'm having an issue with the picture "bowing" on the left side. Not sure how else to describe it, but I think you call this convex in appearance. My wife says she can see this a little on the right side as well, but to me it's much more noticeable on the left. Would appreciate any suggestions for fixing this. Thanks.

Apologize ahead of time if this has been covered by I couldn't find anything when I searched. Just bought the 42 inch model last night and I'm having an issue with the picture "bowing" on the left side. Not sure how else to describe it, but I think you call this convex in appearance. My wife says she can see this a little on the right side as well, but to me it's much more noticeable on the left. Would appreciate any suggestions for fixing this. Thanks.
It's normal for RPTVs. The geometry will be off a little due to the use of optics that display the image. The bowing shouldn't be really bad, though.

It's normal for RPTVs. The geometry will be off a little due to the use of optics that display the image. The bowing shouldn't be really bad, though. Sorry, I just realized that I forgot to mention one key point: I don't notice this problem at all when the screen is filled (HD programming). I only notice this when I'm watching an SD feed with a normal (4:3) aspect ratio (unstretched). Does that change your analysis at all?

Sorry, I just realized that I forgot to mention one key point: I don't notice this problem at all when the screen is filled (HD programming). I only notice this when I'm watching an SD feed with a normal (4:3) aspect ratio (unstretched). Does that change your analysis at all?
No. This is where most people notice it. Many people have reported this issue and I've told them that it's normal as long as it's not bowing real bad like this: ) (.

Use an optical or digital coax cable from the cable box to your receiver. Then put the receiver on the right output (video 1, etc.)

Thanks - I think that worked.

No. This is where most people notice it. Many people have reported this issue and I've told them that it's normal as long as it's not bowing real bad like this: ) (. Dark Rain, just to make sure we're talking about the same thing, the bowing that I'm talking about would be if the ) ( were each rotated inwards so that the tops and bottoms had the appearance of being in front of the long middle section, which would appear slightly inset. (Hopefully that makes sense.)

Could I hook up a DVI converter to the PC input on this TV to use as a DVI input? For the Oppo DVD player?

kornkid843 asks a really good question. I'd like to know too... anyone?

Is this a good deal for the 42a10?

http://www.hometheaterstore.com/store/product.php?productid=2510&cat=0&page=1

At a warehouse store you can get the 50" w/stand for $200 more

I got my e50 a-10 in nov.2005. Is it worth doing the avia dvd thing,or even further,getting a professional calibration? What exactly is done to the tv during a professional calibration?Does it really make a big difference? Also, I have a dvd recorder and it isn't progressive scan,and i noticed that many dvds don't look as good as others.Would a progressive scan dvd player or even an upconvert dvd player that (supoposedly upconverts to near HD) make all dvds look real good?

do the avia thing, trust me. :D

Dark Rain, just to make sure we're talking about the same thing, the bowing that I'm talking about would be if the ) ( were each rotated inwards so that the tops and bottoms had the appearance of being in front of the long middle section, which would appear slightly inset. (Hopefully that makes sense.)

When watching something in 4:3 with the black bars on the side, the vertical lines will not be perfectly straight. On mine they are fairly staight and then start to bend a bit near the bottom on the screen. But it's very minimal. You probably won't find one that is perfect due to the nature of the optics. Better optics (expensive) would produce better results. The only way you're going to get perfect vertical lines/bars is to go with a flat panel LCD or Plasma.

Is this a good deal for the 42a10?

http://www.hometheaterstore.com/store/product.php?productid=2510&cat=0&page=1

It's also $1599.99 at Target, plus 10% off if you open a credit card account.

kornkid843 - did you find it in your local B&M Target? I can't find the 42a10 on Target's website?

At a warehouse store you can get the 50" w/stand for $200 more
What wharehouse store offers the 50" plus stand for $1,799.00? I am considering purchasing this unti at my local BJ's for $2,199 including matching Sony stand!

It's also $1599.99 at Target, plus 10% off if you open a credit card account.

At TARGET? I you serious? It's not online at Target.com... Can anyone else verify this?

Yeah I know its not online. Its at the Targets in COlumbia, SC and then I called the one in CHarleston, SC and they have it itoo, cause thats where I am buying it. Its a price drop that is effective apparently til 4/27, but I would check and make sure they just don't end it this weekend.

What wharehouse store offers the 50" plus stand for $1,799.00? I am considering purchasing this unti at my local BJ's for $2,199 including matching Sony stand!


Look around, take in an internet offer and ask your local store to meet or beat that price. You'll be surprised at how much you save.

$2100 including stand should be the MAX you should be paying for this tv now.

What wharehouse store offers the 50" plus stand for $1,799.00? I am considering purchasing this unti at my local BJ's for $2,199 including matching Sony stand!

Costco in Van Nuys, Ca.
Funny thing is another costco in the area is selling them for a few hundred more but still under the price at your local shop.

At TARGET? I you serious? It's not online at Target.com... Can anyone else verify this?

I've seen it in my Target in Buffalo. Can't remember the price - it was a few weeks ago.

Mark

At a warehouse store you can get the 50" w/stand for $200 more
Not interested in the 50" - no room! Plus I like to sit closer to the tv. After several viewings in person, the 42 is perfect for my needs.

It's also $1599.99 at Target, plus 10% off if you open a credit card account.
Certainly isn't on the web, that's for sure. I'll try to verify with the local store sometime soon, might give them a call today.

Look around, take in an internet offer and ask your local store to meet or beat that price. You'll be surprised at how much you save.
$2100 including stand should be the MAX you should be paying for this tv now.
You'd also be surprised at the number of stores that scoff at internet prices. They simply say that they can't and/or won't compete with online prices.

I dont think Best buy or Circuit City price matches online stores.

I dont think Best buy or Circuit City price matches online stores.

Our Circuit City store will match any price online as long as it is within 50 miles.

Just had something weird happen, I turned on my T.V (42A10) and it appeared to come on but the green light kept flashing (power/standby) and I didn't get a menu or picture even though the screen appeared to come on.

I unplugged things for a few minutes and all was well again, Manufacture date of Jan. 2006.

Can anyone suggest a solid DVD player for the 42" A10 at a reasonable price?
I currently have a Sony progressive scan player but from what I see and what I've read the quality of the prog scan isn't that great.

Opinions?

Just had something weird happen, I turned on my T.V (42A10) and it appeared to come on but the green light kept flashing (power/standby) and I didn't get a menu or picture even though the screen appeared to come on.

I unplugged things for a few minutes and all was well again, Manufacture date of Jan. 2006.

And has your 42a10 been updated? (Firmware).. Cause thats what the update was for.

Below is the link with the information.

Click here (http://esupport.sony.com/perl/news-item.pl?news_id=115&mdl=KDFE42A10)

Can anyone suggest a solid DVD player for the 42" A10 at a reasonable price?
I currently have a Sony progressive scan player but from what I see and what I've read the quality of the prog scan isn't that great.

Opinions?

I have the Oppo 971H and think its GREAT, have it hooked up to my 42a10 via the included DVI-HDMI cable and set to 1080i with the latest oppo firmware.

I just got my 50" A10 last week and am loving it. Can't believe how amazing hi-def looks in my own living room. My question, has anyone figured out how to get rid of the 1" border when using the VGA input and a PC? I tried Mr Pibb's powerstrip settings but it gives me a squooshed image and says unsupported format. I copied and pasted straight from his post. I have an old nVidia GeForce-based graphics card with the latest (88.??) drivers and I've tried tweaking all the the resolution settings, the timing settings, and the only two images I ever get are a squooshed iamge or an image with a 1" border. I don't understand why a 1280 x 720 image out of the computer isn't 1:1 on the LCD's in the set? I've read about people going to 1366 x 688 and that working (sort of, still a small border) but again it doesn't make sense why the native resolution doesn't fill the screen. Any ideas?

And has your 42a10 been updated? (Firmware).. Cause thats what the update was for.

Below is the link with the information.

Click here (http://esupport.sony.com/perl/news-item.pl?news_id=115&mdl=KDFE42A10)

According to the site it states "manufactured through November 2005", my t.v would be after that point. Has the problem persisted beyond the date they give?

Our Circuit City store will match any price online as long as it is within 50 miles.

Well that's not really matching online prices very much... but it's better than most stores I've dealt with.

I've been interested in buying the 42" Sony for a long time. I work in electronics at Sears and had to work around that tv since the summer. Anyway I just got a hold of our availability sheet and it looks like we are receiving the last shipment of this tv in May. Just wanted to know if anybody knew how much it might drop by around that time. It sucks to work around hdtvs playing dish hd all day and then coming home to my good old 27" Sony Wega tube on Comcast basic cable. :( I am ready to go to hd. I have information on the availibilty on many other tvs just give me a list.

According to the site it states "manufactured through November 2005", my t.v would be after that point. Has the problem persisted beyond the date they give?

hmmm, well if you follow that link and go to the support page, it asks you for the serial number of your specific tv (its unique per tv) so you can check it there and it'll tell you if yours need updating or not.

I just got my 50" A10 last week and am loving it. Can't believe how amazing hi-def looks in my own living room. My question, has anyone figured out how to get rid of the 1" border when using the VGA input and a PC? I tried Mr Pibb's powerstrip settings but it gives me a squooshed image and says unsupported format. I copied and pasted straight from his post. I have an old nVidia GeForce-based graphics card with the latest (88.??) drivers and I've tried tweaking all the the resolution settings, the timing settings, and the only two images I ever get are a squooshed iamge or an image with a 1" border. I don't understand why a 1280 x 720 image out of the computer isn't 1:1 on the LCD's in the set? I've read about people going to 1366 x 688 and that working (sort of, still a small border) but again it doesn't make sense why the native resolution doesn't fill the screen. Any ideas?

Make sure you copy the entire string, not just each individual timing parameter, and use the paste button. Also, make sure you are on the "Add new resolution" screen (I think that's what it is called)

Also, make sure you are using the proper zoom mode (noted in my original post).

If it says that it is an unsupported format, then the timing didn't take properly. I know that a few people have had luck with it on various nVidia/Ati cards, but it's possible that your card isn't compatible.

copy the ENTIRE string below between the lines (------) and paste it in..
-----------------------------------------
PowerStrip timing parameters:
1232x696=1232,112,128,192,696,45,5,50,79392,2050

Generic timing details for 1232x696:
HFP=112 HSW=128 HBP=192 kHz=48 VFP=45 VSW=5 VBP=50 Hz=60

VESA detailed timing details:
PClk=79.39 H.Active=1232 H.Blank=432 H.Offset=96 HSW=128 V.Active=696 V.Blank=100 V.Offset=45 VSW=5

Linux modeline parameters:
"1232x696" 79.392 1232 1344 1472 1664 696 741 746 796 -hsync +vsync
------------------------------------------

Can anyone suggest a solid DVD player for the 42" A10 at a reasonable price?
I currently have a Sony progressive scan player but from what I see and what I've read the quality of the prog scan isn't that great.

Opinions?


I'm using a Sony Progressive Scan DVD player as well and the output looks pretty good. An aquaintance told me that the deinterlacer in the A10 does a great job of upscaling the picture and that the Oppo DVD player is a waste of money.

Does anyone know if this statement is true?

What DVD players are all of you using with your A10's?

Just waiting for Best buy to open and then I'm off to buy my first HDTV, the Sony 42A10!! Unbelievable week only sale on it for 1649 to. It was 1999 last week and probably will be again after tomorrow.

Just waiting for Best buy to open and then I'm off to buy my first HDTV, the Sony 42A10!! Unbelievable week only sale on it for 1649 to. It was 1999 last week and probably will be again after tomorrow.

Website says 1799, not 1649. Is this an in store special that is not available or listed through the website?

Do they have any deals on the 50" too?
If so, please let me know. I can always bring the receipt back to the place I bought mine from and get a price adjustment.

I just got my 50" A10 last week and am loving it. Can't believe how amazing hi-def looks in my own living room.

Couldn't agree more. After months of research (and reading this board) - the HD picture actually looks way better in the house than it did in any of the stores.

But - a question/comment for the Comcast HD box owners. I was told the only way I could get the box with HDMI capability was to order the DVR box at an additional 9.99/month.

So right now im hooked up to the HD box with the composite cables (and the picture looks great) - but is it worth upgrading to the HDMI connection for the cable box?

thanks.

I'm using a Sony Progressive Scan DVD player as well and the output looks pretty good. An aquaintance told me that the deinterlacer in the A10 does a great job of upscaling the picture and that the Oppo DVD player is a waste of money.

Does anyone know if this statement is true?

What DVD players are all of you using with your A10's?

I have the oppo 791H and dont think it was a waste of $199... Im glad I got it and it does a nice job with a good amount of dvds.

Plus its only $100 more than what another cheap dvd player (assuming i would of gotten a $100 player, not one of those crap-o $40-$50 ones) would cost you with more benefits and cust support that cant be beaten.

I have the oppo 791H and dont think it was a waste of $199... Im glad I got it and it does a nice job with a good amount of dvds.

Plus its only $100 more than what another cheap dvd player (assuming i would of gotten a $100 player, not one of those crap-o $40-$50 ones) would cost you with more benefits and cust support that cant be beaten.

Dj...... I hope I didn't offend you when I said its a waste of money. If so, it was not my intention. I was just stating what I was told by someone else.

I'm just trying to find out if the information regarding the A10 vs Oppo upscaling is true.
If your happy with it, GREAT! If everyone on here says that its worth it and makes a big difference over my progresssive scan Sony, I'll buy one too. ;)

I'm using a Sony Progressive Scan DVD player as well and the output looks pretty good. An aquaintance told me that the deinterlacer in the A10 does a great job of upscaling the picture and that the Oppo DVD player is a waste of money.

Does anyone know if this statement is true?

What DVD players are all of you using with your A10's?

I have the Sony 575 and 775 ps DVD players. While they do produce a good image, they do have an issue with too much Y/C delay which can produce a ghosting effect. I use PS on my 775 because to me it looks better over the A10's deinterlacer.

The Oppo 791H is a better DVD player according to this review:

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-bin/shootout.cgi?function=search&articles=124#Oppo DigitalOPDV971H (DVI)

For the money it's a great player. A Denon 2910 would even be better if you got the cash.

what has happened to the last three pages of this thread? Acting funny for anyone else?? This should be on page 248, and instead its on 245, and pages 246-248 are all blank... wtf?

what has happened to the last three pages of this thread? Acting funny for anyone else?? This should be on page 248, and instead its on 245, and pages 246-248 are all blank... wtf?

Ditto. I get the same here

Dj...... I hope I didn't offend you when I said its a waste of money. If so, it was not my intention. I was just stating what I was told by someone else.

I'm just trying to find out if the information regarding the A10 vs Oppo upscaling is true.
If your happy with it, GREAT! If everyone on here says that its worth it and makes a big difference over my progresssive scan Sony, I'll buy one too. ;)

Not at all :rolleyes:

I was just statin my view on the oppo since I have it and the same tv :)

Ditto. I get the same here

same here, guess its a bug..

I know this question has been posted lots of times but just wanted a confirmation before I purchase this weekend.

I'm thinking of just buying the extended warranty from sony for $229.

I figure if I'm lucky I'll need a new lamp around month 9 or so and that one will be free under warranty. Then I'll be good for say another 9 months and by then lamp prices will have fallen to say $100.

Just trying to save some money over the cc and bb warranties. By the way do any of you know if BB covers lamp replacement. Not stipulated in the extended warranty online. I see that CC does cover it, but not willing to pay $500.

Just wanted some opinions on whether or not this seems like a good idea.

Aloha

Jim

You'd also be surprised at the number of stores that scoff at internet prices. They simply say that they can't and/or won't compete with online prices.


Then take your business somewhere else. The local guys that will meet or beat anyone here in Beaverton Oregon, also at the very least meet online prices. $2100 including stand is the MAX anyone should be paying for this tv. Find your local audio/video store, not a Best Buy/Circuit City...you'll be surprised at what you can wheel and deal on. Heck, just have them price match what Costco is selling the tv + stand for...they'll want your business there and not at Costco.

But hey, if you want to pay more for the tv, be my guest!

I'm thinking of just buying the extended warranty from sony for $229.

I figure if I'm lucky I'll need a new lamp around month 9 or so and that one will be free under warranty. Then I'll be good for say another 9 months and by then lamp prices will have fallen to say $100.

Just trying to save some money over the cc and bb warranties. By the way do any of you know if BB covers lamp replacement. Not stipulated in the extended warranty online. I see that CC does cover it, but not willing to pay $500.I don't think the Sony extended warranty covers lamps....I believe it says "consumables" are excluded, but correct me if I'm wrong. If your lamp goes out in month 13 then you're out the $229 plus $200-250 vs. $399 for the BB warranty, and you know you're going to need at least one lamp in 4 years, so $399 wouldn't be so bad in that circumstance. Roll the dice.... ;)

BB extended warranty supposedly does cover at least one lamp replacement (two free lamps if one goes out during the first year), but it depends on who you talk to....I'd read the fine print before purchasing, and not take the word of a salesperson. :rolleyes:

The best warranty I've come across is the Philips/Kemper Extended Warranty Plan....5 years for $299 and covers unlimited lamp replacement according to my local dealer. (I have that in writing from him.) The trouble is I don't know how to get this warranty except from a dealer who offers it, and you have to have bought your TV thru that dealer, as I understand it. I didn't buy from him. :(

hmmm, well if you follow that link and go to the support page, it asks you for the serial number of your specific tv (its unique per tv) so you can check it there and it'll tell you if yours need updating or not.

The Sony page said that I do not need the update.

To anybody in South Florida, I got the 42" A10 a couple of days ago from Brandsmart USA for $1,399. + tax.
The room I'm setting up is not ready yet, but I couldn't pass in that offer. They have it listed for $1,499. but if you ask, they will lower the price to $1,399.

Make sure you copy the entire string, not just each individual timing parameter, and use the paste button. Also, make sure you are on the "Add new resolution" screen (I think that's what it is called)

Also, make sure you are using the proper zoom mode (noted in my original post).

If it says that it is an unsupported format, then the timing didn't take properly. I know that a few people have had luck with it on various nVidia/Ati cards, but it's possible that your card isn't compatible.



I have an old Geforce (as in a first generation Geforce 1 SDR RAM) compatible card and it would not accept the timings even though I am sure that I entered them in. I know that it is not a limitation due the timings of the chosen "Computer Monitor", so as far as I can tell it just doesn't like me.

I don't use it much for computing, so I guess I'll just live with the black border for now.

Couldn't agree more. After months of research (and reading this board) - the HD picture actually looks way better in the house than it did in any of the stores.

But - a question/comment for the Comcast HD box owners. I was told the only way I could get the box with HDMI capability was to order the DVR box at an additional 9.99/month.

So right now im hooked up to the HD box with the composite cables (and the picture looks great) - but is it worth upgrading to the HDMI connection for the cable box?

thanks.
It's true. You do need to get the DVR and pay the $9.99. If you think the picture looks good now, wait till you actually see HD. You'll think what you're watching now sucks.

I have an old Geforce (as in a first generation Geforce 1 SDR RAM) compatible card and it would not accept the timings even though I am sure that I entered them in. I know that it is not a limitation due the timings of the chosen "Computer Monitor", so as far as I can tell it just doesn't like me.

I don't use it much for computing, so I guess I'll just live with the black border for now.
Just to verify, when you say "entered them in" does that mean you typed them in? If so, it won't work that way. You have to actually copy and paste the entire string at once. Otherwise it just doesn't like you :D

I know this question has been posted lots of times but just wanted a confirmation before I purchase this weekend.

I'm thinking of just buying the extended warranty from sony for $229.

I figure if I'm lucky I'll need a new lamp around month 9 or so and that one will be free under warranty. Then I'll be good for say another 9 months and by then lamp prices will have fallen to say $100.

Just trying to save some money over the cc and bb warranties. By the way do any of you know if BB covers lamp replacement. Not stipulated in the extended warranty online. I see that CC does cover it, but not willing to pay $500.

Just wanted some opinions on whether or not this seems like a good idea.

Aloha

Jim

Jim - There is an extended warranty being offered in the PowerBuys sections by TapeWorks that extends the manufacturer's warranty for 3 yrs and provides bulb coverage for 3 years from date of purchase for $210. So, for the price of one bulb replacement, the tv is covered for a total of 4 yrs and you can have up to two bulb replacements for 3 yrs. You can read about it here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=626704&page=1&pp=30

I have a question... what exactly does "game mode" do? The manual is less than descriptive. I believe it says "Game Mode - optimised for games" or something like that.

What is it actually doing? I have a PS2, Xbox, and Xbox360 hooked up via the component inputs on my KFE50A10. I think I tried game mode briefly when I was playing something on the PS2, and I think the only noticable effect was that it made the image seem to flicker a bit.

Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. :)

Just to verify, when you say "entered them in" does that mean you typed them in? If so, it won't work that way. You have to actually copy and paste the entire string at once. Otherwise it just doesn't like you :D

I cannot for the life of me figure this Powerstrip thing out. I have: E42A10, AIW9800 with Cat 6.3 and CCC hooked up to VGA (Video 7) on the Sony. I have copied several timings found here and I have tried many others in the driver and Powerstrip. I have read many how-to's around the web and tried to adjust front porches and back porches and stuff. The best I can do is 1280x768 or 1280 x 720 and have about 1" left/right and 1/2" top/bottom of black. Is this the best I can do or is there something I can do better?

1. Am I better off to use the red component gizmo that came with the 9800 and hook up via component or is VGA better? Is being hooked up to VGA on the TV what's causing me the heartache?

2. Can someone explain to me how to adjust timings and stuff to get full screen with no black and no overscan or whatever it's called when the desktop is off the screen?

3. Is it best to try to use FULL1/FULL2 or ZOOM? I've never been able to get a ZOOM one to be not off the screen.

I'm pretty computer literate, build my own, etc, but this one has me stumped. Not a huge problem, usable with 1" of black around edges, but I'd like it better, just niggles me!!

I cannot for the life of me figure this Powerstrip thing out. I have: E42A10, AIW9800 with Cat 6.3 and CCC hooked up to VGA (Video 7) on the Sony. I have copied several timings found here and I have tried many others in the driver and Powerstrip. I have read many how-to's around the web and tried to adjust front porches and back porches and stuff. The best I can do is 1280x768 or 1280 x 720 and have about 1" left/right and 1/2" top/bottom of black. Is this the best I can do or is there something I can do better?

1. Am I better off to use the red component gizmo that came with the 9800 and hook up via component or is VGA better? Is being hooked up to VGA on the TV what's causing me the heartache?

2. Can someone explain to me how to adjust timings and stuff to get full screen with no black and no overscan or whatever it's called when the desktop is off the screen?

3. Is it best to try to use FULL1/FULL2 or ZOOM? I've never been able to get a ZOOM one to be not off the screen.

I'm pretty computer literate, build my own, etc, but this one has me stumped. Not a huge problem, usable with 1" of black around edges, but I'd like it better, just niggles me!!

I think I'll try to do a little "tutorial" or something like that, but I might not be able to get to it until tonight or tomorrow. Someone else with an ATI card got my timings to work, so it just might be that you aren't doing a step correctly.

Thanks to everyone who's contributed to this thread. I've read a lot of it and it's greatly helped my decision to buy a 42" A10.

I'm going out today to buy it but I'm still not sure if I should get the KDFE42A10 or KFE42A10. I'm also about to get digital satellite, so I'm pretty sure the receiver will have a tuner in it. Based on my research, I believe all the TV built-in tuner will do is perhaps bring in whatever HD channels (only local I think) that may not be part of the package offering by, in my case in Canada, Bell ExpressVu. Am I right. I'm leaning toward the non-tuner model and save myself $400.

I don't want to rely on salesrep spin, so can someone please clarify this for me, one way or another?

Thanks.

Thanks to everyone who's contributed to this thread. I've read a lot of it and it's greatly helped my decision to buy a 42" A10.

I'm going out today to buy it but I'm still not sure if I should get the KDFE42A10 or KFE42A10. I'm also about to get digital satellite, so I'm pretty sure the receiver will have a tuner in it. Based on my research, I believe all the TV built-in tuner will do is perhaps bring in whatever HD channels (only local I think) that may not be part of the package offering by, in my case in Canada, Bell ExpressVu. Am I right. I'm leaning toward the non-tuner model and save myself $400.

I don't want to rely on salesrep spin, so can someone please clarify this for me, one way or another?

Thanks.

I believe that the built in HD tuner will just allow you to hook up a antenna to recieve OTA-HD

Thanks to everyone who's contributed to this thread. I've read a lot of it and it's greatly helped my decision to buy a 42" A10.

I'm going out today to buy it but I'm still not sure if I should get the KDFE42A10 or KFE42A10. I'm also about to get digital satellite, so I'm pretty sure the receiver will have a tuner in it. Based on my research, I believe all the TV built-in tuner will do is perhaps bring in whatever HD channels (only local I think) that may not be part of the package offering by, in my case in Canada, Bell ExpressVu. Am I right. I'm leaning toward the non-tuner model and save myself $400.

I don't want to rely on salesrep spin, so can someone please clarify this for me, one way or another?

I originally bought the 42A10 w/built-in tuner, but now have traded up to the 50A10, also with tuner. The wife resisted the 50" at first, but now she says she likes it better. I too like it better (more feeling of immersion for sports and movies), but I wish it were as good as some of the plasmas I've seen. Oh well, maybe next time....

I got the built-in tuner specifically for OTA HD content. I haven't actually seen HD over the cable or satellite except in stores, but it can't be any better, if as good, as what I get OTA. I get all the networks and PBS HD OTA. I subscribe to basic cable and actually get about a dozen digital channels in the mix, but I rarely tune to cable anymore, except for an occasional History Channel program or classic movie, and most of that is SD.

So if I were you, and I had any hope of more OTA HD becoming available in the next few years, I'd buy the model with tuner....OTOH, if there's only cable or satellite in your future, then save your money. Of course, if I didn't need a tuner, I might also be looking at one of the nice plasma monitors instead of a RP monitor. ;)

I would go with the tuner, you have the option to receive OTA HD and can use a cable card if it's offer by your cable co.

I'm not sure if the website is set up for Canada, It's awesome for finding local HD channels

http://www.antennaweb.org/aw/Address.aspx

sorry I just checked and it does not work north of the border.

Hey everyone, like many of you, I purchased this set due in large part to reading these forums and I'm glad with the decision I made to get the KFE42A10 as it truly seems to be the best bang for the buck TV in the 40-50" range. There's just one concern that I have as of right now that I don't recall reading about throughout this thread - of course I could have missed it somewhere in the 7000+ posts...Anyway here goes - I've noticed that the brightness/color changes slightly and then changes back when there's camera angle changes, especially noticable when watching hockey. Is this the advanced iris at work? or something else? Also, my set seems to have the infamous smudge/dust behind the screen problem. How many of you have had a service guy come in and correct this, or did it usually end up in an exchange?

Thanks in advance for any comments/suggestions.

Just to verify, when you say "entered them in" does that mean you typed them in? If so, it won't work that way. You have to actually copy and paste the entire string at once. Otherwise it just doesn't like you :D

Yes, I tried the Cut-n-paste method as specified in the howto on the other web site.

I also tried to manually create ANY kind of new non-default resolution by adjusting the settings via the dropdown menus and entry boxes.

No setting ever was "accepted" by by video card/video driver.

So it REALLY doesn't like me :(

Now if someone confirmed that a Geforce 1 AGP video card could accept the new timings and provide any relevant info such as driver version and monitor selection, that would be of great help to me.

I have a question... what exactly does "game mode" do? The manual is less than descriptive. I believe it says "Game Mode - optimised for games" or something like that.

What is it actually doing? I have a PS2, Xbox, and Xbox360 hooked up via the component inputs on my KFE50A10. I think I tried game mode briefly when I was playing something on the PS2, and I think the only noticable effect was that it made the image seem to flicker a bit.

Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. :)


Keeping this question alive because I would like to know the answer too.


Also have we established what the potential bulb life is? Today I was looking at a few month ago HD magazine I have and it mentioned LCD bulb life at 60000 hours and with 6.6 hours being the average on time of an LCD TV in a household the bulb life ending up being 25 years. :eek: If only...

Keeping this question alive because I would like to know the answer too.


Also have we established what the potential bulb life is? Today I was looking at a few month ago HD magazine I have and it mentioned LCD bulb life at 60000 hours and with 6.6 hours being the average on time of an LCD TV in a household the bulb life ending up being 25 years. :eek: If only...

GAME MODE is for optimizing the lipsync when playing games.

60000 hours is for LCD flat panel TVs which use CCFL lamps.

Bulb life on the A10 can vary, but I would guess at least 6000-8000 hours if you're lucky. Bulbs will last longer if you keep the TV on more during the day/night rather than turning it on/off/on/off a lot. Also make sure that the fan is running when you turn off the TV. This cool down process is critical in order to lengthen the life of the bulb.

Is there any memory in the A10 that tracks bulb runtime?

Hey everyone, like many of you, I purchased this set due in large part to reading these forums and I'm glad with the decision I made to get the KFE42A10 as it truly seems to be the best bang for the buck TV in the 40-50" range. There's just one concern that I have as of right now that I don't recall reading about throughout this thread - of course I could have missed it somewhere in the 7000+ posts...Anyway here goes - I've noticed that the brightness/color changes slightly and then changes back when there's camera angle changes, especially noticable when watching hockey. Is this the advanced iris at work? or something else? Also, my set seems to have the infamous smudge/dust behind the screen problem. How many of you have had a service guy come in and correct this, or did it usually end up in an exchange?

Thanks in advance for any comments/suggestions.

Sounds like "advanced iris" is set to high...off works best for me

Okay I tried it one last time and got success. I cut and pasted the resolution settings exactly, which created a user-defined resolution profile, and then loaded the custom resolution. The display on the screen at this point leaves about a 2" border all the way around but then going to Zoom mode fills the scrreen with probably 1/4" (or less) overscan. I can still see the X in the corner of any application to close it. The TV doesn't complain about the signal either, in fact it thinks it's 1280x768 when you're looking at the on-screen menu. So of the two profiles that Mr. Pibb recommended, I guess only one of them I couldn't get to work right. But the 1232 x 696 in Zoom mode works great. Icons and text look sharp and clear and when watching movies it looks pretty much identical to my DVD player hooked up to the component inputs. I should do a real A-B comparison though, just for kicks. I'm happy with it for now. :)

I know I've read about this in the past, but a quick search didn't prove too helpful.

I've noticed a local channel's HD newscast is starting to look like a badly dubbed Godzilla movie. (SD looks fine.)

Is it totally on their end?

Is there anything I can do to minimize the problem? (besides switching back to SD???)

thnx

Does anybody know for sure whether or not the 42A10 will continue to be produced after mid-year 2006 ? Thanks in advance.
Kevin

Today I bought the 42" A10 and a digital satellite system. It should be installed sometime this week. I can't wait.

Although I read a lot of the posts of this thread, I don't recall reading about what the salesrep I talked to today recommended. He suggested buying what essentially is a surge protector/battery backup. I understand the wisdom in using a surge protector, but he said that in a power failure, the fan immediately shuts down and therefore it's not running to cool down the lamp, which can result in a problem (or destroy) the lamp. Seems to make sense. Wuddya think? I believe the unit he was selling is made by Monster and sells for $400. He further said that the expense of this unit is because it is much more than just a cheaper surge protector/battery back-up. Any thoughts on this? I didn't buy any such device (yet).

The salesrep also recommended buying a hi-res home theater HDTV video cable to connect the HD digital receiver to the A10, saying that whatever cables that would come with either the TV or receiver would be cheap, and less than adequate. I was a little reluctant, but it seemed to make sense. It cost $75. Should I have bought this cable?

Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

I bought the 42A10 after 4 months of research just 3 days ago. I'm enjoying the thing like no other. Have a look at Oblivion on Xbox 360 with just standard vid settings--

Sony 42A10 on standard video settings.

http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/6916/captured2006325000263ad.jpg

http://img396.imageshack.us/img396/903/captured2006325000216yt.jpg

http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/899/captured2006325000281kg.jpg

http://img396.imageshack.us/img396/2554/captured2006325000275db.jpg

Looks great!

Great game also, playing it on my pc though

Okay I tried it one last time and got success. I cut and pasted the resolution settings exactly, which created a user-defined resolution profile, and then loaded the custom resolution. The display on the screen at this point leaves about a 2" border all the way around but then going to Zoom mode fills the scrreen with probably 1/4" (or less) overscan. I can still see the X in the corner of any application to close it. The TV doesn't complain about the signal either, in fact it thinks it's 1280x768 when you're looking at the on-screen menu. So of the two profiles that Mr. Pibb recommended, I guess only one of them I couldn't get to work right. But the 1232 x 696 in Zoom mode works great. Icons and text look sharp and clear and when watching movies it looks pretty much identical to my DVD player hooked up to the component inputs. I should do a real A-B comparison though, just for kicks. I'm happy with it for now. :)

I'm surprised that if that one worked that the other one didn't. They are essentially the exact same timing with different blanking areas.

When I do my tutorial that I was thinking of doing (probably won't happen as quickly as I wanted to :rolleyes: ) I'll include instructions on how to adjust for the overscan issues.

Although I read a lot of the posts of this thread, I don't recall reading about what the salesrep I talked to today recommended. He suggested buying what essentially is a surge protector/battery backup. I understand the wisdom in using a surge protector, but he said that in a power failure, the fan immediately shuts down and therefore it's not running to cool down the lamp, which can result in a problem (or destroy) the lamp. Seems to make sense. Wuddya think? I believe the unit he was selling is made by Monster and sells for $400. He further said that the expense of this unit is because it is much more than just a cheaper surge protector/battery back-up. Any thoughts on this? I didn't buy any such device (yet).

The salesrep also recommended buying a hi-res home theater HDTV video cable to connect the HD digital receiver to the A10, saying that whatever cables that would come with either the TV or receiver would be cheap, and less than adequate. I was a little reluctant, but it seemed to make sense. It cost $75. Should I have bought this cable?I bought a Tripp-Lite 1000va home theater battery backup at C***co for $99....I bought it primarily to keep my DVR's online during a power outage, but I've got my RPTV plugged into the UPS as well, so that's a bonus.

I heard the same pitch at every store I visited while looking at TV's....all about the dirty power in my house and why I needed to buy an expensive power conditioner/UPS. :rolleyes: Well, all I can say is the dirty power in my house does just fine by my TV.

BTW, "cheap" cables aren't necessarily bad ones and expensive ones aren't necessarily good ones. I went to an electronics supply house and bought quality cables in plain wrappers for about one-third of what the big retailers charge.

I suspect anything that says "monster", "hi-res", or the like on the packaging is a very high profit item for the store.

Does anybody know for sure whether or not the 42A10 will continue to be produced after mid-year 2006 ? Thanks in advance.
Kevin


Hey Kevin I work at Sears and our availability sheet show the last shipment of the 42A10 in May 2006 and no sign of it in the future. That's about the same time I plan to buy one so I hope it drops in price. Does anybody know how much last year’s model dropped before it left the shelves?

So do they plan on releasing a new model of this TV shortly?

It's being replaced by a 46"....don't recall the model # offhand.

High profit, you'd be amazed.. I worked at Com*Us* and the margin on any cable was 80% or more. No joke, HDMI weren't as bad as usb cables. A Monster cable had a anywhere between 40-50$ markup. No need to buy those cables at Big Box retailers. Hopefully I'm allowed to state this, if not I'm sorry. But made up my mind going to get the 50A10. Thought about the 42, but viewing area will be around 11-14'. Great reading and good info.

But made up my mind going to get the 50A10. Thought about the 42, but viewing area will be around 11-14'.I had the 42A10 for about 2 weeks when I saw a 50A10 for $2k, with Sony stand....I'd never go back now.

My viewing distance is about 10-11 feet....I finally feel like I'm watching a "big screen" TV.

GAME MODE is for optimizing the lipsync when playing games.

Thanks for the reply... but what does that actually mean? What is it doing differently when set to "game mode"?
Does this mean that there is usually a delay between audio and video when not in "game mode"?
Is it sacrificing any quality when in "game mode"?

I haven't been able to find any real info about this setting at all.. it has me confused.

MrPibb, I hope you do the tutorial, I for one will appreciate it.

I went to your timings most immediately above, message 7321 I think, and with Zoom, I'm pretty good, slight overscan. Again, this with 42" A10 and AIW9800. I had to adjust horizontal about 1/4" on the TV and it's close enough for me!!

I would love the tutorial on slightly adjusting these timings to see if I can figure it out and try other timings/resolutions. I've read around the web, some stuff pretty old for older versions of PS and I just don't seem to understand all this and I'm sort of scared to try much hooked to the TV, what with the warnings attached to some of these web tutorials I've seen.

Long story short, looking forward to your tutorial if you're needing a tiny bit of inspiration to do it!!

I just bought the 50a10 from an online retailer that seemed to get great reviews here. This will be my first HDTV and right now I've been watching my only set, a 25'' Wega. I can't imagine what kind of shock I'm in for once this thing gets here :)
I'll be hooking it up through my HTPC and I guess while I wait for the next 4-5 days for it to get here I can read through this entire thread.

I've been following AVS Forum for several months now, waiting for my 1993 Sony XBR RPTV to expire. I originally thought that my replacement choice would be easy - Sony SXRD. With size issues & all the negative posts on this board, I am backing down and considering instead either the 50A10 or 55A20 Grand Wega sets. I have seen much said about these sets, but I have a very simple question:

All things being equal, which television, 50A10 or 55A20, is the better set? And, why?

Thanks!

I've been following AVS Forum for several months now, waiting for my 1993 Sony XBR RPTV to expire. I originally thought that my replacement choice would be easy - Sony SXRD. With size issues & all the negative posts on this board, I am backing down and considering instead either the 50A10 or 55A20 Grand Wega sets. I have seen much said about these sets, but I have a very simple question:

All things being equal, which television, 50A10 or 55A20, is the better set? And, why?

Thanks!


Yes I know they're different sizes, but the 42 and 50 A10's are different tv's than the 55 and 60 A20's. If you want a 55 incher, go with another tv than the A20. The 50A10 works for me, I can see the SDE if I want to look for it...but it's still a great tv for me. We sit at about 10-12' away from the tv so it's a nice looking picture.

Hit a CC or BB and check out the tv's yourself....people's eyes are different, some see flaws on tv's...and others don't. It's your eyes and your tv, take a look for yourself.

Yes I know they're different sizes, but the 42 and 50 A10's are different tv's than the 55 and 60 A20's. If you want a 55 incher, go with another tv than the A20. The 50A10 works for me, I can see the SDE if I want to look for it...but it's still a great tv for me. We sit at about 10-12' away from the tv so it's a nice looking picture.

Hit a CC or BB and check out the tv's yourself....people's eyes are different, some see flaws on tv's...and others don't. It's your eyes and your tv, take a look for yourself.

Well said...... Couldn't have said it better myself. ;)

The bottom line is, you have to check out the HDTV's in person in order to make a sound decision. I have the A10 50" and I'm pretty happy with it. Unfortunately, I'm one of the few people who see the Silk Screen Effect real easy on rear projection TV's. In my eye's the Sony 3LCD TV's have a Very visable SSE, second only to the JVC H-ILA TV which was horrible for me.

Therefore, for me at least, it detracts from the A10's otherwise superb picture quality. So.......I'm I thrilled with the A10? Simple answer is NO. Can you get a better TV for the price, I doubt it. If you ask others around here you will probably get, "I love this TV", "Best TV ever", and "Blow's away every other HDTV" type responses. Remember, Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. ;)

Good luck in your quest for the perfect HDTV. Its a jungle out there!!

The 50A10 works for me, I can see the SDE if I want to look for it...but it's still a great tv for me. We sit at about 10-12' away from the tv so it's a nice looking picture.

Hit a CC or BB and check out the tv's yourself....people's eyes are different, some see flaws on tv's...and others don't. It's your eyes and your tv, take a look for yourself.Don't know why but I don't see SDE or SSE on my 50A10. I'm also viewing at 10-12 feet....I did see SSE on the 42A10 that I had previously but it didn't bother me that much. I may be just getting accustomed to it and don't notice it anymore.

I looked at every TV available, and would have (although with some reluctance) spent 2-3 times as much as the A10 cost if one had stood out from the crowd....but none was without PQ flaws or other compromise, so I settled on what I believe to be the best bang for the buck for my situation. Now I'll just try to sit back and enjoy, and avoid comparisons to others for a while, cuz I know they can't go anywhere but better. ;)

I think that after a while your eyes stop looking for the flaws and you start enjoying the picture (not to mention the Dolby D I didn't have before)....call it the "immersion factor". Meanwhile, every time I see something I don't like I force my mind to visualize what the viewing experience would be like with the 16-year old CRT I replaced. :D

It's being replaced by a 46"....don't recall the model # offhand.

Anyone know if the new models will support 1080p native ...... Deciding if I want to wait for new models or purchase exisiting. Expect to be using it with PS3/Blu-ray, but also have present uses with 360 / ps2 / cube / directv / OTA.

Existing TV uses RF input adapter and I'm tired of all the color snow and screen artifacts. Oh what to do .... I suppose I could get the 42A10 now and sell it if the new model is 1080p. Not sure if 46" will be too big as my viewing/playing is going to be from about 6'.

Don't know why but I don't see SDE or SSE on my 50A10. I'm also viewing at 10-12 feet....I did see SSE on the 42A10 that I had previously but it didn't bother me that much. I may be just getting accustomed to it and don't notice it anymore.


Funny you said that. When I bought my 50" A10 and discovered the SSE as soon as I turned it on, I went to BB and CC to check out the other TV's to make sure I wanted to keep it. I hardly saw any SSE on the A10 42" which is the total opposite of what you saw. I'm wondering if it varies from TV to TV, with all of them producing different SSE results. The 42" was too small for my room so I kept the 50" and said I'll just deal with the SSE. Dealing with SSE is harder than I thought!! :(

I bought the 42A10 after 4 months of research just 3 days ago. I'm enjoying the thing like no other. Have a look at Oblivion on Xbox 360 with just standard vid settings--

Sony 42A10 on standard video settings.

Very nice! Connected through component I assume?

Very nice! Connected through component I assume?

Yep component 720p. I've now switched from standard settings to Dark Rain's Sony DVD player vid settings for my xbox 360. Its alot more relaxed picture and just easy to look at.

Anyone know if the new models will support 1080p native ...... Deciding if I want to wait for new models or purchase exisiting. Expect to be using it with PS3/Blu-ray, but also have present uses with 360 / ps2 / cube / directv / OTA.

Existing TV uses RF input adapter and I'm tired of all the color snow and screen artifacts. Oh what to do .... I suppose I could get the 42A10 now and sell it if the new model is 1080p. Not sure if 46" will be too big as my viewing/playing is going to be from about 6'.

According to their website the new models do support 1080p

DrGregC,

My advice is to not even consider the 55A20.
It is last year's TV and technology in a new box.
The A20s do not have the AutoIris(deeper blacks) or the ATI chip,
which allows the TV to display both 540 line fields.
Then weave them together properly.
The A20s show one 540 line field then synthesize the other.

The A10s look great to me and offer incredible value and a excellent picture.

I've had my 42A10 for almost 7 months and it loks better than the day I bought it.
Some friends of mine have the 50A10 and it's pic is every bit as good as mine with
the added impact of the 8" larger screen.

I had my 42A10 for 30 days and found a green pixel dot in the middle of the screen. Sony said, it was not under warranty and there had to be cluster of them out the size of a dime for there to be a warranty issue. She said live with it or take it back to Best Buy if it is bothering you. Best Buy took it back without batting an eye which was refreshing. Now the new 42a10 has a pixel out on it. The thing is I can't see the pixel is even out unless you get really close to the TV. Is this no big deal or do I have a bad TV and this be a bigger problem lingering out there? I have only had this new TV for a couple of days now and could take it back if I had to. But if this is a problem will all these types of TV's why bother with the hassle and just live with it. .

Is the A10 response time listed in the manual?

I have googled for about half an hour and can't find the info.

Does anyone here know what it is?

According to their website the new models do support 1080p

The press release doesn't indicate display resolution support.

Also, Ultimateavmag reports .....

Sony did show three new Grand WEGA 3LCD 720p rear projection sets: the 46-inch KDF-46E2000 at $2,200, the 50-inch KDF-50E2000 for $2,500, and the 55-inch KDF-55E2000 for $3000. They all offer Cinema Black Pro, which includes an Advanced (dynamic) Iris for better blacks.


So I think the new models may be 720p. Affordable 1080p I dont think is on the horizon till 2007.......

I had my 42A10 for 30 days and found a green pixel dot in the middle of the screen. Sony said, it was not under warranty and there had to be cluster of them out the size of a dime for there to be a warranty issue. She said live with it or take it back to Best Buy if it is bothering you. Best Buy took it back without batting an eye which was refreshing. Now the new 42a10 has a pixel out on it. The thing is I can't see the pixel is even out unless you get really close to the TV. Is this no big deal or do I have a bad TV and this be a bigger problem lingering out there? I have only had this new TV for a couple of days now and could take it back if I had to. But if this is a problem will all these types of TV's why bother with the hassle and just live with it. .


With LCD technology its pretty hard to get a perfect LCD screen with zero dead/stuck pixels. There are alot of people out there that dont even know they have a dead pixel or two. I was pretty anal about dead pixels myself when choosing a display. I mean, you spend 2k on a tv, you want a perfect one right? Its something you may or may not have to deal with depending on how lucky you are. My first 42A10 set I picked up had 3 dead pixels. I couldnt live with that, especally because one of them were right in the middle of the screen. While watching conan O' brien in HD I would always see the little black dot when his pale face was right on the dead pixel :( . My second display has 1 dead pixel at the bottom left corner of the screen which is impossible to see at my viewing distance (5-6 feet). So I just stuck with this display.

Anybody connecting the 50" to their PC know if it's normal to have a small black border around the picture at 1280x768 resolution? Any way to correct this? When I cycle through the modes via the remote's "WIDE" button, "FULL 1" is terrible with large borders on the left and right and small borders on the top/bottom, "FULL 2" is a big improvement with much smaller borders on the left/right and the same borders as before on the top/bottom (side borders are still slightly larger than the top/bottom), and "ZOOM" fills the entire screen but doesn't show enough of the picture to be useful. I'd like to use the entire screen if possible. Any suggestions? I'd try the HDMI input on the A10 but this laptop only has an analog output.

Anybody connecting the 50" to their PC know if it's normal to have a small black border around the picture at 1280x768 resolution? Any way to correct this? When I cycle through the modes via the remote's "WIDE" button, "FULL 1" is terrible with large borders on the left and right and small borders on the top/bottom, "FULL 2" is a big improvement with much smaller borders on the left/right and the same borders as before on the top/bottom (side borders are still slightly larger than the top/bottom), and "ZOOM" fills the entire screen but doesn't show enough of the picture to be useful. I'd like to use the entire screen if possible. Any suggestions? I'd try the HDMI input on the A10 but this laptop only has an analog output.

You need to use Powerstrip to set up a custom resolution. See the link in my signature.

Thanks a lot. I'll do that.

Is the A10 response time listed in the manual?

I have googled for about half an hour and can't find the info.

Does anyone here know what it is?


I am not afraid to quote myself! :D

I checked the manual and no reference to the response time. I'll just guess and say it's 12ms. :)

Hi. I'm new to the forum.

I've been researching the RPTV TV's, and am torn between the Samsung and A10. I'm pretty sure I want the A10, but then I saw the XBR. My initial reaction comparing the A10 and XBR side by side is that the XBR is a little better, but is it worth $1000 better?

Has anyone here considered the XBR before getting the A10? Don't get me wrong - I do like the A10, and think it's a great TV for the price, but the price difference is getting smaller, and it's making me wonder if I should pony up the difference.

TIA.

Which XBR??

The press release doesn't indicate display resolution support.

Also, Ultimateavmag reports .....

Sony did show three new Grand WEGA 3LCD 720p rear projection sets: the 46-inch KDF-46E2000 at $2,200, the 50-inch KDF-50E2000 for $2,500, and the 55-inch KDF-55E2000 for $3000. They all offer Cinema Black Pro, which includes an Advanced (dynamic) Iris for better blacks.


So I think the new models may be 720p. Affordable 1080p I dont think is on the horizon till 2007.......

Sorry, I was looking at the SXRD ($3500 one)

I am not afraid to quote myself! :D

I checked the manual and no reference to the response time. I'll just guess and say it's 12ms. :)


It's 12ms....

Hi. I'm new to the forum.

I've been researching the RPTV TV's, and am torn between the Samsung and A10. I'm pretty sure I want the A10, but then I saw the XBR. My initial reaction comparing the A10 and XBR side by side is that the XBR is a little better, but is it worth $1000 better?

Has anyone here considered the XBR before getting the A10? Don't get me wrong - I do like the A10, and think it's a great TV for the price, but the price difference is getting smaller, and it's making me wonder if I should pony up the difference.

TIA.

I was in the same boat. I also considered the Toshiba 1080p DLPs, the JVC ILAs, the Panasonic LCD projections, as well as the larger Sony 60" A20. In the end I went with the 50" A10. The SXRD looks great but the combination of the high price tag and the unreliability of a first generation model were enough to steer me toward the less expensive, more robust, "almost as good picture" alternative. Reading through the SXRD thread, the "green blob" issue made me uneasy. Likewise with the Toshiba DLP and bulbs burning out after only a few hundred hours use. Then I read that the A20 and Panasonics supposedly downscale the input signal before upscaling to their native resolution so you are effectively looking at less than 720p content, while the A10 has been specifically cited to have passed this criteria. Most importantly, when I looked at all the TVs I was considering in person, the A10 looked better than all except the SXRD. The only thing that kept me from pulling the trigger weeks before I eventually bought it was that I preferred a slightly larger set. Too bad they don't make a 55-60" A10.

Just had something weird happen, I turned on my T.V (42A10) and it appeared to come on but the green light kept flashing (power/standby) and I didn't get a menu or picture even though the screen appeared to come on.

I unplugged things for a few minutes and all was well again, Manufacture date of Jan. 2006.

I saw in your later post that you checked the update website, and that your TV is not listed. How long did you wait before unplugging the set (30 seconds, 1 minute, 5 minutes)?

On occasion, I've had my set take a little longer starting up -- the set will sit there with the light flashing green, then eventually come up like normal. As long as you've got a green light, it's not more than about 60-90 seconds, and it's only once in a great while, it's probably not anything to worry about. I've only had it happen about three or four times in seven months.

I saw in your later post that you checked the update website, and that your TV is not listed. How long did you wait before unplugging the set (30 seconds, 1 minute, 5 minutes)?

On occasion, I've had my set take a little longer starting up -- the set will sit there with the light flashing green, then eventually come up like normal. As long as you've got a green light, it's not more than about 60-90 seconds, and it's only once in a great while, it's probably not anything to worry about. I've only had it happen about three or four times in seven months.


I assume you guys aren't just hitting the tv off, and then immediately trying to turn it back on?

Couldn't agree more. After months of research (and reading this board) - the HD picture actually looks way better in the house than it did in any of the stores.

But - a question/comment for the Comcast HD box owners. I was told the only way I could get the box with HDMI capability was to order the DVR box at an additional 9.99/month.

So right now im hooked up to the HD box with the composite cables (and the picture looks great) - but is it worth upgrading to the HDMI connection for the cable box?

thanks.

mldmjd5,

Did you mean Component cables? If so, most 6412 users report little improvement in HDMI over component. Add to that many problems reported when HDMI (with the Comcast box) is used, and most agree HDMI isn't worth the trouble. You may want to read about this in the Comcast 6412 thread. My 6412 box has enough issues with Firewire that I haven't bothered trying it through the A10's HDMI.

With our 50" A10 I have an LG3410A box using the HDMI port with a DVI/HDMI converter, as well a 6412 through component. The PQ is noticably softer from the 6412, but most of the difference is probably due to the OTA signal vs. the compressed signal from Comcast.

Merton

Just posting a software update experience:

Could not have been simpler. Saturday night I checked the update site online, entered my serial #, was notified that my TV needed the update and scheduled the update for today (tuesday 28th of march).

Yesterday the tech called my cellphone and asked for detailed directions to my home. Told me he would give me a call when he was on his way and to expect him around 1:30pm.

He called at 12:50pm and said he was in the area and could I meet him at my house in 20 minutes. No problem. Met him at the house and he brought in a Sony update toolkit which was 2 flash drives and a small philips head screwdriver all on a keychain.

Swiveled the TV out so he could get to the back and he removed the small cover hiding the USB port, stuck in the flash drive and powered on my TV. Update information flashed across the screen and he said that only occurs with some of the A10's. I said yes, the really good A10's. :) Then when the tv screen went black he turned off the TV. Red and green lights flashed on the front panel for around 10 minutes. Then the lights went green and amber. Turned on TV and software was updated.

Simple like that.

He mentioned how surprised he was that Sony was offering the update. He said the power off issue starts after the TV has been on for 1000 hours but if the power off happens all you have to do is unplug the TV to "reset" it and you are good to go for another 1000 hours.

The update of course cures having to do that "reset".

He said Sony was paying the company he worked for very handsomely to go around updating the TVs.


What I want now, is for Sony to put out an update that gives more functionality in the settings menu. Like a bulb time indicator and Red Green and Blue adjustments like many of the LCD (even low priced) sets have.

Is the A10 HDMI 1.3 compatible?

http://www.tgdaily.com/2006/03/24/gdc2006_ps3_no_hdmi/

"HACKS TREADING the boards at GDC 2006 were a little surprised when Sony started getting a bit reticent about showing off the PS3's HDMI skills.

The journos, who belonged to TG Daily, were first told that the people looking after the stand couldn’t find any HDMI tellies to run the consoles on. However the hacks pointed out all the TVs on the stand had HDMI inputs. The PR people started clearing their throats and claiming that they were a bit short of HDMI cables and that "they are difficult to find".

When they were offered an HDMI cable which one of the hacks happened to have in his car they said no.

No this has got everyone wondering. Maybe the PS3's HDMI isn’t that compatible with the HDMI spec integrated in the tellies.

We know that the PS3 will use HDMI 1.3, but Sony’s current TV offerings use HDMI 1.1, which do not support the Dolby TrueHD as well as DTS-HD.

Sony really didn’t want the jounos to see what happens when you connect the two, perhaps there is some significant audio noise or it puts 14 million volts through you.

More here. µ"

God Da**it.

I sure hope that is not the case at all. That is downright scary.

I am holding out for the PS3 and to think it may not work with the A10 or any 1.1 hdmi set is :eek:

If PS3 doesnt work on all current HDTV's when it is released, SONY is the one who is screwed, not us. Everyone is not gunna go out and buy new HDTV's just for the PS3. So for sonys sake, they better make it compatible with any HDTV with HDMI inputs.

i' thinking of getting the avia dvd for my sony 50a-10.And i just read the avia dvd doesn't work well with newer tv's. Is this true?

God Da**it.

I sure hope that is not the case at all. That is downright scary.

I am holding out for the PS3 and to think it may not work with the A10 or any 1.1 hdmi set is :eek:

Dude are you holding out for PS3 over Xbox 360? That is a collosal mistake in itself.

Does anyone know if the A10's (or any RP LCD HDTV, for that matter) are susceptible to damage from speakers that are not magnetically shielded?

I know magnets and CRT's don't mix.......

Hey everyone! I got a new Sony A10 and I am trying to hook a pc up to it and had a few questions.

The graphic card in the pc I am using is a Radeon 9800 Pro. It has DVI, VGA, and S-Video on it. I have the S-Video hooked up to the TV right now and I am not getting a very good picture. I talked to one of my friends and he said in order to watch movies in Hi Def I would have to use either a DVI to Component Adapter, or a DVI to HDMI Adapter. He mentioned the SDub but he doesn't know much about it. So he suggested that I come on here and see what other A10 users think would work the best.

So my questions... What would be the best option for me, use the dvi to component, dvi to hdmi, or use the SDub?

Thanks to everyone in this forum too. It is really nice to have a place to go and ask stupid questions, such as mine... hehe.

Thanks!
Mark.

Is the A10 HDMI 1.3 compatible?
We know that the PS3 will use HDMI 1.3, but Sony’s current TV offerings use HDMI 1.1, which do not support the Dolby TrueHD as well as DTS-HD.
Well according to my service menu after the "software update" my 50A10 says: HDMI: 1.300 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7256460&&#post7256460)
So maybe some sets are good to go and other just need a "software update".

Is the A10 HDMI 1.3 compatible?

http://www.tgdaily.com/2006/03/24/gdc2006_ps3_no_hdmi/

We know that the PS3 will use HDMI 1.3, but Sony’s current TV offerings use HDMI 1.1, which do not support the Dolby TrueHD as well as DTS-HD.

Why would we care about the audio format in the HDMI signal, when the set can't output anything other than 2.0 through its speakers? As long as the video signal is authenticated, you'd have to manage the audio separately anyway.

Ok, so I just took delivery of the 50 inch model yesterday from Tweeter and calibrated the settings last night with Avia. Tonight I decided to actually sit down and just enjoy my new tv (replaced a 55411 Mits) by watching some Lost Season 1 on dvd. During dark scenes I began to notice a faint greenish tint blob on the screen. I cleaned that area of the screen and to my disappointment it did not go away (I originally thought I was getting some reflection off an accidental fingerprint or something). I have done a search within this forum on "green blob" and did turn up some results, but I'm not sure if what I have is the same thing. It is very faint and is about the size of a nickel, although it is oblong in shape. I saw something about a firmware update in my search on this thread, but with 7000+ posts I probably did not get to see all the relevant posts. Does anyone know if this is a dust problem on an lcd panel or is this some known problem that a firmware update fixed? Any advice would be very much appreciated. As a side note, even after calibrating with Avia this set is much more bright and vibrant than was my Mits! Thank you in advance for any replies.

I was wondering if anyone knewq why the A20 series doesnt have a Iris Mode on them.The 50A10 has it but the 55 A20 doesnt.Does anyone have any reasoning for this?

I was wondering if anyone knewq why the A20 series doesnt have a Iris Mode on them.The 50A10 has it but the 55 A20 doesnt.Does anyone have any reasoning for this?
They were designed before the A10. The Grand Wega IV models didn't have the AI and I believe the A20 was designed around the same time period.

The A20 does use better LCD panels than the A10. If you're looking to buy a Sony microdisplay, I'd either get the A10 or wait for the new models to appear this summer.

Does anyone know if this is a dust problem on an lcd panel or is this some known problem that a firmware update fixed? Any advice would be very much appreciated.

It might be dust or a bad light engine. I'd exchange it for another one if possible.

Does anyone know if the A10's (or any RP LCD HDTV, for that matter) are susceptible to damage from speakers that are not magnetically shielded?

I know magnets and CRT's don't mix.......

None. If you do see any discoloration on the screen like faint blue or red blotches it's a light engine problem.

i' thinking of getting the avia dvd for my sony 50a-10.And i just read the avia dvd doesn't work well with newer tv's. Is this true?
It will work good for setting the proper brightness and contrast. It's also good for setting the sharpness level. This is best used for DVDs. For other devices you may need to eyeball the settings.

None. If you do see any discoloration on the screen like faint blue or red blotches it's a light engine problem.

Cool, thanks Dark Rain.

Hey everyone! I got a new Sony A10 and I am trying to hook a pc up to it and had a few questions.

The graphic card in the pc I am using is a Radeon 9800 Pro. It has DVI, VGA, and S-Video on it. I have the S-Video hooked up to the TV right now and I am not getting a very good picture. I talked to one of my friends and he said in order to watch movies in Hi Def I would have to use either a DVI to Component Adapter, or a DVI to HDMI Adapter. He mentioned the SDub but he doesn't know much about it. So he suggested that I come on here and see what other A10 users think would work the best.

So my questions... What would be the best option for me, use the dvi to component, dvi to hdmi, or use the SDub?

Thanks to everyone in this forum too. It is really nice to have a place to go and ask stupid questions, such as mine... hehe.

Thanks!
Mark.

It sounds like you may have a long learning curve ahead of you based on some of your comments, but it will be worth the effort.

S-video is only capable of 480i (480 interlaced) lines of resolution. I don't know of anyone who has gotten a good PC picture through HDMI (flaw on Sony's part if you ask me). So far, the best solution has been to use a VGA monitor cable from your PC to the Video 7 VGA input on the TV's. Then, to get it to work properly, you need to use a program called Powerstrip to set up the proper timings that will allow a near perfect picture on the TV from a PC. See the link in my signature below for the specific Powerstrip timings for these TV's. See Karnis's custom timings thread stickied on the top of the HTPC section for more detailed information about Powerstrip. someday...when I have some spare time...I'm make a tutorial with more detail on how this is set up...

I got up this morning and tried to get DiscoveryHD and nothing, says "Not Authorized".
The only thing I'm getting Digitally over cable is the Local networks and PBS. Did
Time-Warner figure out how to block them or are they making changes? I'm thinking of
doing a rescan but might give it a few hours to see what happens. I know this doesn't
really belong on this forum but there's so little activity over on the Local and OTC
Reception one I figured the question would be a waste of time.
Grateful11 :mad:

I got up this morning and tried to get DiscoveryHD and nothing, says "Not Authorized".
The only thing I'm getting Digitally over cable is the Local networks and PBS. Did
Time-Warner figure out how to block them or are they making changes? I'm thinking of
doing a rescan but might give it a few hours to see what happens. I know this doesn't
really belong on this forum but there's so little activity over on the Local and OTC
Reception one I figured the question would be a waste of time.
Grateful11 :mad:

In Cary, they did an update yesterday to the software on my SA 8300HD. I have lost picture (not sound) twice since then over HDMI, and there are some new features on the DVR.

This might be related to what you are seeing.

In Cary, they did an update yesterday to the software on my SA 8300HD. I have lost picture (not sound) twice since then over HDMI, and there are some new features on the DVR.

This might be related to what you are seeing.

I think this is what's going on.
Changes Link (http://www.timewarnercable.com/charlotte/customer/0329_message.html)

It sounds like you may have a long learning curve ahead of you based on some of your comments, but it will be worth the effort.

S-video is only capable of 480i (480 interlaced) lines of resolution. I don't know of anyone who has gotten a good PC picture through HDMI (flaw on Sony's part if you ask me). So far, the best solution has been to use a VGA monitor cable from your PC to the Video 7 VGA input on the TV's. Then, to get it to work properly, you need to use a program called Powerstrip to set up the proper timings that will allow a near perfect picture on the TV from a PC. See the link in my signature below for the specific Powerstrip timings for these TV's. See Karnis's custom timings thread stickied on the top of the HTPC section for more detailed information about Powerstrip. someday...when I have some spare time...I'm make a tutorial with more detail on how this is set up...

Thanks alot of the info My Pibb. Yea, do have a long road ahead of me but this is a great start. Thanks a ton!

I got up this morning and tried to get DiscoveryHD and nothing, says "Not Authorized".
The only thing I'm getting Digitally over cable is the Local networks and PBS. Did
Time-Warner figure out how to block them or are they making changes? I'm thinking of
doing a rescan but might give it a few hours to see what happens. I know this doesn't
really belong on this forum but there's so little activity over on the Local and OTC
Reception one I figured the question would be a waste of time.
Grateful11 :mad:

In Rochester NY, Time Warner started encrypting all HD channels yesterday except local channels, PBS, and for some reason Universal HD. Previously, anyone with even the most basic cable subscription (or even just a cable modem connection) could get all of the HD channels except the premier content like HBO, Showtime, and ESPN-HD.

I had read a post weeks ago on another messageboard from someone who insinuated he had inside connections where he specifically mentioned TW would be cutting off the open QAM content on March 28. Since this appears to have been planned well in advance, I'm not surprised to see that it was done in other markets as well. Seems like they're tying up this loose end for good. If you want HD content, they want you to pay for the HD tier. Since it was never widely known that the open QAM channels were available anyway (they certainly didn't advertise that fact), they probably don't think they will suffer a mass exodus to satellite.

I've been holding out deciding what I would do for HD channels for the past few weeks just so I could see if this Mar. 28 cut-off was for real or not. Now it'll be interesting to see how bad they try to ream me as I really only care about 1 HD channel and 2 SD channels. More than likely they'll try to force me to pay for digital cable, which I don't want, as a prerequisite to getting the HD tier. So, $60 or more for 3 channels.....yippeee!

.

I've been holding out deciding what I would do for HD channels for the past few weeks just so I could see if this Mar. 28 cut-off was for real or not. Now it'll be interesting to see how bad they try to ream me as I really only care about 1 HD channel and 2 SD channels. More than likely they'll try to force me to pay for digital cable, which I don't want, as a prerequisite to getting the HD tier. So, $60 or more for 3 channels.....yippeee!

I thought I had to upgrade to digital service ($49 plan) in order to get the HD service too. When the guy came out to install the HD box he informed me that TW does NOT charge for standard HD channels (CBS, NBC, FOX, Discovery, etc). He told me I could keep my plan ($15 a mo) and still receive the standard HD channels for just the $5 HD box rental fee (i could of just got the Cable Card but want to have access to On Demand Movies). SWEET!! With the money I saved I upgraded to the DVR box.

While he was here he also called TW and asked them for free digital tier HD + and DVR service free for 3 months. I get HBO HD, SHOWTIME HD, INHD, INHD2, ESPN HD, and a few others for 3 months for free. I now never really watch standard def channels anymore.

I live in Los Angeles but dont think it would make a difference.

I thought I had to upgrade to digital service ($49 plan) in order to get the HD service too. When the guy came out to install the HD box he informed me that TW does NOT charge for standard HD channels (CBS, NBC, FOX, Discovery, etc). He told me I could keep my plan ($15 a mo) and still receive the standard HD channels for just the $5 HD box rental fee (i could of just got the Cable Card but want to have access to On Demand Movies). SWEET!! With the money I saved I upgraded to the DVR box.

While he was here he also called TW and asked them for free digital tier HD + and DVR service free for 3 months. I get HBO HD, SHOWTIME HD, INHD, INHD2, ESPN HD, and a few others for 3 months for free. I now never really watch standard def channels anymore.

I live in Los Angeles but dont think it would make a difference.You're paying only $15 for basic TW? :eek: I'm paying over $50 for "basic plus" which includes no HD!! Looks like I need to make a phone call!

Okay I hope to god that you guys will tell me this is a source issue and not a TV issue. My problem is that somewhat often when watching TV I will get a vertical line that is not in tune with the rest of the picture. For example I may have someone talking against a blue background, and running down that person's face are blue pixels. Almost as if the background is leaking through. It's odd though, because the problem is not always present, and usually not(if ever) the same group of pixels that are showing this. It seems to only occur on standard definition and usually when I do the "Wide Zoom" (although I have noticed it w/o zooming) I can't recall ever noticing it on the HD channels. I am worried about this being the dreaded "dead pixels" but again, it doesn't seem to be consistently the same area, nor does it always happen. Any ideas?

Dude are you holding out for PS3 over Xbox 360? That is a collosal mistake in itself.


Yep, I am.

For the simple reasons I have over 150 PS2 games, only going to get 1 nextgen console and I love my PS2.

how will this do for protecting my HT setup? Buying the TV within the next couple/few weeks and would like to have everything in place waiting for it...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068CNU/sr=8-21/qid=1141614938/ref=sr_1_21/104-9914242-4675928?%5Fencoding=UTF8

Yes I did all the research on here about anything power-related. Just looking for a surge protector with some filtering... power conditioners sound nice but I have a degree in marketing and I know the schemes of my own kind. Yes the benefits exist but are greatly overexaggerated. Basically lightning is a nigh-unstoppable force anyway, and black or brownouts are uncommon in my area. Bottom line - its replacing a ~$10 powerstrip from wal-mart.

So is there any other similar surge protector I should consider for $40 or under?

how will this do for protecting my HT setup? Buying the TV within the next couple/few weeks and would like to have everything in place waiting for it...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068CNU/sr=8-21/qid=1141614938/ref=sr_1_21/104-9914242-4675928?%5Fencoding=UTF8

Yes I did all the research on here about anything power-related. Just looking for a surge protector with some filtering... power conditioners sound nice but I have a degree in marketing and I know the schemes of my own kind. Yes the benefits exist but are greatly overexaggerated. Basically lightning is a nigh-unstoppable force anyway, and black or brownouts are uncommon in my area. Bottom line - its replacing a ~$10 powerstrip from wal-mart.

So is there any other similar surge protector I should consider for $40 or under?

Get an APC brand UPS from newegg.com.

Get an APC brand UPS from newegg.com.


You didn't read my post very well... :rolleyes: try again.

You didn't read my post very well... :rolleyes: try again.



Get an APC brand UPS from newegg.com

I got up this morning and tried to get DiscoveryHD and nothing, says "Not Authorized".
The only thing I'm getting Digitally over cable is the Local networks and PBS. Did
Time-Warner figure out how to block them or are they making changes? I'm thinking of
doing a rescan but might give it a few hours to see what happens. I know this doesn't
really belong on this forum but there's so little activity over on the Local and OTC
Reception one I figured the question would be a waste of time.
Grateful11 :mad:

I just got back from TW Cable office and the said that a new promotion starts tomorrow
with a 6 month deal involving I believe Showtime and Movie Channel at reduced rate.
She was spouting off some much stuff I couldn't take it all in. Now I have to decide
between Cable Card and STB. Cable Card has to be programmed and they have to install it
and there's a $30 charge. I've never had an STB and I really hate to have one more piece
stuff added to an already crowded cabinet.
Grateful11

PS: The freebies were nice while they lasted. ;)

Get an APC brand UPS from newegg.com

Okay honestly I'm not trying to be an *** here but I really don't think you guys are reading my post very well. I like this place a lot and genuinely appreciate all the helpful answers... however just repeating that one line does nothing for me. If you feel so strongly about it, tell me why. I've already said I'm looking for a surge protector not a UPS, and I'm in the $40 and under range. If there's a UPS that has the same features as the surge protector I gave a link to that's available around $40 then hook me up with a link.

Thanks in advance...

11 Outlet Surge Protector $32 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817106223)

I saw this one while looking around that I might pick up. There is also APC and Belkin surge protectors on NewEgg pretty cheap

11 Outlet Surge Protector $32 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817106223)

I saw this one while looking around that I might pick up. There is also APC and Belkin surge protectors on NewEgg pretty cheap


That doesn't look bad at all... All of the UPS units I found don't have the same filtering that model does (coax, phone, ethernet), that's why I'm interested in the surge protector and not the UPS... Unless you show me a link that proves me wrong...

here's a potentially boneheaded question but I do excel at those.

I bought an A10 last fall but it had a reddish purple "wedge" in the upper right hand corner. I could have easily exchanged it but it left me gun shy so I just got my money back. thinking of trying one again. my question is can analog input (S-video to be exact from a TiVo) be viewed in postage stamp mode?

the quality looked dreadful coming off the TiVo when I tried it last (high and best quality) so I thought maybe if I left 480i at relatively 480i size on the screen, that might help. I realize it would be about the size of what, a 27" tv? but it's a tradeoff I'm willing to make while I transition to the cable co's DVR. eventually the TiVo will be retired to the bedroom and will do duty on shows that I don't mind watching on a smaller tv.


not gonna work? shouldn't try it? get off the pipe? what?

here's a potentially boneheaded question but I do excel at those.

I bought an A10 last fall but it had a reddish purple "wedge" in the upper right hand corner. I could have easily exchanged it but it left me gun shy so I just got my money back. thinking of trying one again. my question is can analog input (S-video to be exact from a TiVo) be viewed in postage stamp mode?

the quality looked dreadful coming off the TiVo when I tried it last (high and best quality) so I thought maybe if I left 480i at relatively 480i size on the screen, that might help. I realize it would be about the size of what, a 27" tv? but it's a tradeoff I'm willing to make while I transition to the cable co's DVR. eventually the TiVo will be retired to the bedroom and will do duty on shows that I don't mind watching on a smaller tv.


not gonna work? shouldn't try it? get off the pipe? what?

Get off the pipe and go get that brand new 42A10.

You didn't read my post very well... :rolleyes: try again.

If you want to give you're brand new T.V second rate protection be my guest, I have seen a Belkin dragged out a house on fire if that means anything. Spend the extra 20-30 bones and do it right.

Okay honestly I'm not trying to be an *** here but I really don't think you guys are reading my post very well. I like this place a lot and genuinely appreciate all the helpful answers... however just repeating that one line does nothing for me. If you feel so strongly about it, tell me why. I've already said I'm looking for a surge protector not a UPS, and I'm in the $40 and under range. If there's a UPS that has the same features as the surge protector I gave a link to that's available around $40 then hook me up with a link.

Thanks in advance...

I run a UPS on all my TV's, DVR's, etc.. and so should you. Why? Because quite simply a surge protector does little whereas a UPS does much much more for protecting against spikes, brown outs and the like..

I live in Florida, we have lightning.


**edit**

If I seem short my appologies, having a bad day. :o

You are aware that the TV has to have 2 minutes of AC after it is turned off in order to cool down the bulb, right?

Given that, unless you want to risk shortening the life of your bulb, a UPS is a *much* better option than a surge protector, IMHO. Or, do both if you can swing it.

If you want to give you're brand new T.V second rate protection be my guest, I have seen a Belkin dragged out a house on fire if that means anything. Spend the extra 20-30 bones and do it right.


that's fine, I have no allegiances to Belkin -- that's why I'm here, to learn from those with experience.

I'll heartily consider the APC models.


You are aware that the TV has to have 2 minutes of AC after it is turned off in order to cool down the bulb, right?

Given that, unless you want to risk shortening the life of your bulb, a UPS is a *much* better option than a surge protector, IMHO. Or, do both if you can swing it.


Yes I'm aware, I read up on that. However that's only an issue if the power were to blackout while I'm watching the tv. I'm really only interested in surge protection and mild filtering - nothing top of the line. In the event the power goes out while I'm watching the tv I'll bust out my portable battery and scramble to plug the tv into that. :D

Yes I'm aware, I read up on that. However that's only an issue if the power were to blackout while I'm watching the tv. I'm really only interested in surge protection and mild filtering - nothing top of the line. In the event the power goes out while I'm watching the tv I'll bust out my portable battery and scramble to plug the tv into that. :D

This isn't top of the line, you just chose to not look up any other products besides Belkins. Here's an APC that'll do the job for you.

http://www.officemax.com/max/solutions/product/prodBlock.jsp?BV_UseBVCookie=yes&expansionOID=-536896234&prodBlockOID=1611314353

I run a UPS on all my TV's, DVR's, etc.. and so should you. Why? Because quite simply a surge protector does little whereas a UPS does much much more for protecting against spikes, brown outs and the like..

I live in Florida, we have lightning.


**edit**

If I seem short my appologies, having a bad day. :o


You didn't seem short at all. Ah, the limitations of internet communication.

Anywhoo - yes I see how a UPS would protect better against brownouts. However, not a common problem here. And the surge protector I'm looking at has filtering/protection for ethernet, phone, and cable. ~3400 joules spike protection. $100,000 CEW. How is a UPS doing a better job than that? (Aside from the aforementioned protection against brownouts and providing power for the fan in a blackout)

You didn't seem short at all. Ah, the limitations of internet communication.

Anywhoo - yes I see how a UPS would protect better against brownouts. However, not a common problem here. And the surge protector I'm looking at has filtering/protection for ethernet, phone, and cable. ~3400 joules spike protection. $100,000 CEW. How is a UPS doing a better job than that? (Aside from the aforementioned protection against brownouts and providing power for the fan in a blackout)


Then why don't you buy the Belkin? Pretty cut and dry from your stance on this issue.

This isn't top of the line, you just chose to not look up any other products besides Belkins. Here's an APC that'll do the job for you.

http://www.officemax.com/max/solutions/product/prodBlock.jsp?BV_UseBVCookie=yes&expansionOID=-536896234&prodBlockOID=1611314353

Actually I just didn't post anything other than the belkin. I looked at panamax, apc, and monster [shudder].

How about this model that was suggested earlier?

APC 11 outlet surge protector (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817106223)

Then why don't you buy the Belkin? Pretty cut and dry from your stance on this issue.


Because I came here for opinions and help deciding. What's cut and dry is that I'd like a surge protector, not a UPS. I wasn't set on the belkin whatsoever, I in fact asked for suggestions other than it. :D
Thanks, all.

Actually I just didn't post anything other than the belkin. I looked at panamax, apc, and monster [shudder].

How about this model?

APC 11 outlet surge protector (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817106223)

Good call on the monster. I'd still buy an UPS (doesn't have to be APC), although the APC I linked is just a little bit more than what you're linking in this post.

You are aware that the TV has to have 2 minutes of AC after it is turned off in order to cool down the bulb, right?

Given that, unless you want to risk shortening the life of your bulb, a UPS is a *much* better option than a surge protector, IMHO. Or, do both if you can swing it.

I personally have both on my A10 etc.

Quick question.

I thought there was no way the Grand wegas can burn in?

I was looking in the manual for my tv and it says...

**Caution**
When using TV games, computers and similar products with your projetion TV, keep the brightness and contrast functions at low settings. If a fixed (non-moving) pattern is left on the screen for long periods of time at a high brightness or contrast setting, the image can be permanently imprinted onto the screen. Continuously watching the same program can cause the imprint of station logos onto the TV screen. These types of imprints are not covered by your warranty because they are the result of misuse.

I recently purchased the 50A10 from costco (2wks). Since then the set has turned itself off 3 times followed by the red light blinking in 3 blink intervals. I read the manual and sees that it has to do with the lamp door but is that really the problem since I never even touched it. Should I go back and get another one, is anyone else having the same problem. Also is the faint blue in the upper lefthand corner and the hit of green in the upper center of the screen common and will a new set be better or worse or is a crap shoot? thanks for your help.
zaneren

I recently purchased the 50A10 from costco (2wks). Since then the set has turned itself off 3 times followed by the red light blinking in 3 blink intervals. I read the manual and sees that it has to do with the lamp door but is that really the problem since I never even touched it. Should I go back and get another one, is anyone else having the same problem. Also is the faint blue in the upper lefthand corner and the hit of green in the upper center of the screen common and will a new set be better or worse or is a crap shoot? thanks for your help.
zanerenLOL! Take it back! That's why you got it at costco in the first place isn't it? I know I did! If my A10 so much as hiccups they'll get it back! ;)

I recently purchased the 50A10 from costco (2wks). Since then the set has turned itself off 3 times followed by the red light blinking in 3 blink intervals. I read the manual and sees that it has to do with the lamp door but is that really the problem since I never even touched it. Should I go back and get another one, is anyone else having the same problem. Also is the faint blue in the upper lefthand corner and the hit of green in the upper center of the screen common and will a new set be better or worse or is a crap shoot? thanks for your help.
zaneren

I couldnt agree more with GWSMITH. Take it back and get a new one!!

Quick question.

I thought there was no way the Grand wegas can burn in?

I was looking in the manual for my tv and it says...

**Caution**
When using TV games, computers and similar products with your projetion TV, keep the brightness and contrast functions at low settings. If a fixed (non-moving) pattern is left on the screen for long periods of time at a high brightness or contrast setting, the image can be permanently imprinted onto the screen. Continuously watching the same program can cause the imprint of station logos onto the TV screen. These types of imprints are not covered by your warranty because they are the result of misuse.


Can anyone confirm this? either if it can or cant burn in?

Can anyone confirm this? either if it can or cant burn in?I don't find that in my manual....which GW do you have? What page in the manual?

I have the KDF-E42A10.

Production date feb 2006

page 3, under caution.

Can anyone confirm this? either if it can or cant burn in?

It can't burn-in, but you can get image retention that will eventually fade away. The manual statement on burn-in was intended for CRT and Plasma displays. It's an error on Sony's part.

Mine says the same thing on page 3

I'm considering purchasing this stand from Hooker, It would raise my 50a10 4" vs the Sony stand.
It would allow me to put my amp, dvd, etc above the TV. I hate getting on my hands and knees to load a DVD.


Would that change my picture quality? BTW I sit about 10' away.

http://www.hookerfurniture.com/largeview.cfm?filename=photos/large/HF00555243_10_05.jpg

lastplace

Will the center of the screen be eye level? Eye level gives you the brightest image.

What you want to avoid is extreme vertical viewing angles where the brightness dropoff is significant.

It can't burn-in, but you can get image retention that will eventually fade away. The manual statement on burn-in was intended for CRT and Plasma displays. It's an error on Sony's part.

And, as was mentioned way, way, way back in this thread, it's also a C.Y.A. on the part of the Sony legal team. In theory, there shouldn't be a burn-in problem with LCD panels, but that doesn't mean that somebody, somewhere won't end up with a one-off, defective unit that somehow manages to get a slight burn in. So including that statement allows Sony to say that they warned all of us gets them off the hook in a worst-case scenario.

I have the KDF-E42A10.

Production date feb 2006

page 3, under caution.Thanks, found it....in the fine print. :rolleyes:

I can't imagine that the statement would apply to any lcd based display....if that were the case my lcd pc monitor would've burned in long ago.

If sears pricematches to internet stores, I think I might've found a way to get this TV for $1,170 before tax out the door.

:eek: :eek: :eek:

edit: the 42a10

If sears pricematches to internet stores, I think I might've found a way to get this TV for $1,170 before tax out the door.

:eek: :eek: :eek:

edit: the 42a10

I'd be amazed if you were able to get them to match an internet price. Before buying my 50A10 I looked at getting it at Sears and read over their price match policy. The policy states that they will match local competitors' online prices but that there has to be a physical store in the area. That would be awesome if they did match it though. :) I'd be jealous for sure.

..bo..

I'd be amazed if you were able to get them to match an internet price. Before buying my 50A10 I looked at getting it at Sears and read over their price match policy. The policy states that they will match local competitors' online prices but that there has to be a physical store in the area. That would be awesome if they did match it though. :) I'd be jealous for sure.

..bo..


Yeah i was just looking it over again before I started salivating too much and read that... made me very very sad... oh well, PM'ing it to Target will still get me it for $1,440 before tax, and that ain't too bad at all...

Yeah i was just looking it over again before I started salivating too much and read that... made me very very sad... oh well, PM'ing it to Target will still get me it for $1,440 before tax, and that ain't too bad at all...


Have them pricematch Costco. Or take it (internet offer) to your local electronics dealer (not a Sears, Best Buy, Circuit City, etc...), you'd be amazed at what kind of wheeling and dealing you can get on your electronics.

When are the new models coming out? My dad is set on getting the Sony and we are going to check them out in the store before we buy it online...I would like to know if the new models are right around the corner or if there is more than 4 months to go? He wants to get the KDF-E55A20.

When are the new models coming out? My dad is set on getting the Sony and we are going to check them out in the store before we buy it online...I would like to know if the new models are right around the corner or if there is more than 4 months to go? He wants to get the KDF-E55A20.

You may as well get that A20 cause its an excellent set and the ones coming out this summer really only add a 2nd hdmi input or so. You can't go wrong with prices that are falling on current sets.

When are the new models coming out? My dad is set on getting the Sony and we are going to check them out in the store before we buy it online...I would like to know if the new models are right around the corner or if there is more than 4 months to go? He wants to get the KDF-E55A20.

http://news.sel.sony.com/pressrelease/6571

From this press release on 3 new Sony 3LCD microdisplay models:

"The KDF-55E2000 and KDF-50E2000 units will ship early this summer for about $3,000 and $2,500, respectively, while the KDF-46E2000 model will be available in mid-summer for about $2,200."

You may as well get that A20 cause its an excellent set and the ones coming out this summer really only add a 2nd hdmi input or so. You can't go wrong with prices that are falling on current sets.


A20 is not an excellent set. It is one generation behind the 2005 A10's, and will be two generations behind the new tv's coming out this summer. It doesn't have the advanced iris among other things like the A10's have. If you can wait, get the new 55 inch in the summer.

i haven't posted here in awhile, so to refresh everyone, i have a 42a10 in the bedroom and a 50a10 in the living room. i had cable cards installed in both tvs 3 weeks ago today. been enjoying hd through both the cable cards as well as hd antennas (since the cable doesn't offer all the stations yet).

the problem is i got home tonight and tried to turn on espn hd and watch the NIT final. but i get "no signal" on the living room tv (50a10). but when i went back to the bedroom and tried it on that tv (42a10) it works great.

the catch is that the standard cable channels all work, its just the hd channels that will not tune.

AND also, the hd channels will not tune through the antenna either.

so what do i do now?? call the cable company and report a bad cable card??? or is this the problem that was discussed about heat issue and needing to get a heat shield and other parts replaced.

thanks,
tony

A20 is not an excellent set. It is one generation behind the 2005 A10's, and will be two generations behind the new tv's coming out this summer. It doesn't have the advanced iris among other things like the A10's have. If you can wait, get the new 55 inch in the summer.

Oh ok. Thank you for pointing that out. I just got the 42A10 so I figured the A20's were just as good. Apparently not I guess.

Thanks for all the posts.

Took me one week to finish 249 pages...

Will get one A10 this weekend. Really like a falt-panel LCD better, but cannot wait for another several years. Life is short :)

Oh ok. Thank you for pointing that out. I just got the 42A10 so I figured the A20's were just as good. Apparently not I guess.


No prob, I found that out while researching tv's before I bought the 50A10, saw the menus for both tv's as well as the display options and was convinced to buy the smaller tv. You would figure that the entire line would be upgraded, but no...Sony's logic doesn't work like that.

They were designed before the A10. The Grand Wega IV models didn't have the AI and I believe the A20 was designed around the same time period.

The A20 does use better LCD panels than the A10. If you're looking to buy a Sony microdisplay, I'd either get the A10 or wait for the new models to appear this summer.
Well there like the same TV but there smaller and dont have speakers on the side,but your saying that they came out different times?Hmm i thought they came out the same year.

Well there like the same TV but there smaller and dont have speakers on the side,but your saying that they came out different times?Hmm i thought they came out the same year.
I remember seeing the A20 out before the A10. The A10 was introduced around June 2005. I'm guessing Sony didn't have the Advanced Iris ready in time for the A20. The upside to the A20 is the bigger screen sizes and better LCD panels than the A10. But without the AI, the black levels on the A20 are weak and I'd avoid them at this point. You're better off getting the 50A10 or the more expensive R50XBR1 if you need a TV right now.

any ideas about why not HD signal guys??

thanks
tony

any ideas about why not HD signal guys??

thanks
tony


Try unpluging it for 3 minutes.

What's the best practice on keeping one of these babies clean? I'm not talking about the screen neccesarily, just dust on the back of the unit and fan. I want to keep it running well to avoid problems. What do you all do to prevent problems from it being dirty?

K

What kind of entertainment centers are you guys using with these TV's? I have been searching for months and can't quite find what I'm loking for.
I would like:
A TV stand around 50-55" wide and about 24" high.
A tower on each side with shelves for audio equipment - Glass doors are nice also.
A bridge with a shelf above the TV that will hold the Large center channel.
Finish = Black
Anyone have something like this?
Jim

maybe a bit industrial for you
but im using commercial wire kitchen shelving, fully adjustable and holds 350lb per shelf
it comes in white, black and silver
the default (like what the hardware store has) wont work for your 50", but tech stores (such as tiger micro) have them @ larger sizes, such as 60x24 & 60x36 where the default home improvement only have 48x18

What kind of entertainment centers are you guys using with these TV's? I have been searching for months and can't quite find what I'm loking for.
I would like:
A TV stand around 50-55" wide and about 24" high.
A tower on each side with shelves for audio equipment - Glass doors are nice also.
A bridge with a shelf above the TV that will hold the Large center channel.
Finish = Black
Anyone have something like this?
Jim

I just bought this (http://www.thornwood.com/partdetail_new.aspx?theFile=32_21FINISH_FLEXWALL_50DELCON.jp g&collectionNbr=32-10) about a month so I'd have room to get the Sony. The TV stand is 50" wide. Cost me about $1600. Very nice.

Mark

That is a very nice piece. It doesn't come in black though. :mad:
I see that the TV stand is 30" high. How do you like that for your viewing angle? Seems alittle high to me. I found one set-up that I really liked, except that the stand was 32" high. I temperarily set my TV up at that height to try it out and found that it was just way too high for me.
Thanks for the reply,
Jim

What's the best practice on keeping one of these babies clean? I'm not talking about the screen neccesarily, just dust on the back of the unit and fan. I want to keep it running well to avoid problems. What do you all do to prevent problems from it being dirty?

K

I just use a microfiber tower every other day of the week to keep the dust off.... :)

Here is my justification to buy an A10.

1. I am a gamer, so Plasma and DLP is out of my options.

2. I like Flat panel LCD better for the following reasons,

A. Life span longer (60,000 hours vs 6,000 hours)
B. Much higher contrast ratio (Black is real back, white is real white)
C. No side effect (no SDE or whatever )
D. Thinner(could be on the wall)
E. No bulb replacement concern(once for lifetime deal)

However, a 40" sony flat panel LCD costs $2800 at BB as of today (March 31, 2006). I expect a same size flat panel LCD (50") and simliar price ($2000) to be in market in 2-3 years. However, I don't want another 2-3 years for it. Kids are underway by then, have to enjoy life first.

3. XBR has actually better PQ. However, this cannot justify $1500 difference.

A10 price and size fits into my budget and needs. So I will pull the trigger.

Edit: I meant flat panel LCD

any ideas about why not HD signal guys??

thanks
tony

Tony,

I don't know if unplugging will help, but I used to have this problem many times when I had a cable card.

If I remember correctly, you need to go into WEGA gate and go to settings. Somewhere in there you will find Cablecard. Select cablecard and do a reset. This should then find all of your digital as well as analog channels. As I said, I'm trying to remember this without actually being in front of my tv, but I used to have to do this at least once every week when I had a cable card.

Good luck and I hope this helps.

-Cincy Nick

cincy,

is that the only fix???

it seems that there should be a better solution than to have to reset all my settings are couple of weeks!!

thanks
tony

Here is my justification to buy an A10.

1. I am a gamer, so Plasma and DLP is out of my options.

2. I like Flat panel DLP better for the following reasons,

A. Life span longer (60,000 hours vs 6,000 hours)
B. Much higher contrast ratio (Black is real back, white is real white)
C. No side effect (no SDE or whatever )
D. Thinner(could be on the wall)
E. No bulb replacement concern(once for lifetime deal)

However, a 40" sony flat panel LCD costs $2800 at BB as of today (March 31, 2006). I expect a same size flat panel LCD (50") and simliar price ($2000) to be in market in 2-3 years. However, I don't want another 2-3 years for it. Kids are underway by then, have to enjoy life first.

3. XBR has actually better PQ. However, this cannot justify $1500 difference.

A10 price and size fits into my budget and needs. So I will pull the trigger.

There's no such thing as a Flat Panel DLP. At least I've never heard of one.

I think xpy meant CRT.

I think xpy meant CRT.

I meant flat panel LCD. Sorry.

i reset my cablecard option in wegagate, and all the HD channels work.

how often am i going to have to reset this setting?? is there anything i can do to fix it??

thanks
tony

sadly probably everytime that the cable company wants to nuke anyone who is pirating cable... downside of having "cutting edge" hardware on the cable company - they havent been tweaking it for 20 years like the rest of their tech...

Does anyone know where/if I can get a replacment screen for a 42" A10? My 2-year-old hit the TV with something and left a tiny dent. Its small, but it's driving me nuts.

I remember seeing the A20 out before the A10. The A10 was introduced around June 2005. I'm guessing Sony didn't have the Advanced Iris ready in time for the A20. The upside to the A20 is the bigger screen sizes and better LCD panels than the A10. But without the AI, the black levels on the A20 are weak and I'd avoid them at this point. You're better off getting the 50A10 or the more expensive R50XBR1 if you need a TV right now.
Oh thats weird on the Iris.What is so much better about the LCD panels in the A20?

That is a very nice piece. It doesn't come in black though. :mad:
I see that the TV stand is 30" high. How do you like that for your viewing angle? Seems alittle high to me. I found one set-up that I really liked, except that the stand was 32" high. I temperarily set my TV up at that height to try it out and found that it was just way too high for me.
Thanks for the reply,
Jim

This is an odd thing. I had my 50" A10 on a coffee table that was no more than 20 inces high from the point I bought it till work was done on my family/entertainment room. It was about 5 months of viewing the tv at 20 inches off the floor.

The TV went into some custom built in shelves and it's now 34 inches off the ground. When I first sat down to watch I was :eek: and I thought I had made a terrible mistake. After viewing it at 34 inches off the floor for a month now it isn't an issue at all. Funny how you just adapt to things.

A really cool thing is if I am sitting semi-slouch style on the couch and using my laptop (like I am right now) I can see the whole TV right over the top of the laptop.

One other thing is I am exactly 9.5 feet from the TV.

Of course, YMMV

http://img345.imageshack.us/img345/4435/dsc065818km.jpg


http://img345.imageshack.us/img345/6563/dsc065824ta.jpg

i reset my cablecard option in wegagate, and all the HD channels work.

how often am i going to have to reset this setting?? is there anything i can do to fix it??

thanks
tony

T- i had sony come out and install a shield inside the bulb area and replace the bulb for FREE. comcast and sony have an agreement to fix any of their HDTV w/CC that are have problems. the repair tech told me that he knows of 5 different ways or error types that are most common and that comcast will fix. my repair told about 30 mins, the bulb replacement was great i just wish i had had him exchange it with my othe A10 before he left.

Don't know if this has been discussed before, but I'm interested in buying the A10, but will be moving to South America where they run 220V. Question is, do they make sets here for 220V? Or are they just 110V?

Anyone?

Thanks...

Here is my justification to buy an A10.

1. I am a gamer, so Plasma and DLP is out of my options.

2. I like Flat panel LCD better for the following reasons,

A. Life span longer (60,000 hours vs 6,000 hours)
B. Much higher contrast ratio (Black is real back, white is real white)
C. No side effect (no SDE or whatever )
D. Thinner(could be on the wall)
E. No bulb replacement concern(once for lifetime deal)


Be careful with a flat panel LCD purchase. If you buy, get a newer Sony, Samsung or Sharp. Many of the cheaper LCD flatscreens suffer from lagging pixels during fast motion scenes - not good for gaming.

The bulb life span is longer for flat panel LCD, but the bulbs are not replacable in most flat panel sets like a projection LCD bulb. And they get dimmer over time. When you replace a bulb in your projection LCD, it is like having a new TV again.

Silkscreen effect (SSE) is not a problem for flat panel LCD, but screen door effect (SDE) can still be a problem if you sit too close to the TV.

Personally, I thought when the 42A10 first came out, it looked better than the best sub 4K 40inch LCD flat panel available at the time, the Samsung LNR408D. Especially when viewing fast motion HD scenes.

And it was still MUCH cheaper. I can buy a LOT of replacement bulbs for the money I saved by going with the 42A10 vs. the Samsung. Something on the order of 11 bulb changeouts :eek:

Finally, the A10 is a better choice if you are going to have kids because it is too easy for a kid to damage a flat panel LCD surface and need to replace the whole set. However, most direct hits or scratches to the front of a projection TV like the A10 would just suffer damage to the projector screen and not the optics buried deep inside the set. And you can probably replace the projector screen for a couple hundres bucks and you are back in business again.

Just my $0.02

Oh thats weird on the Iris.What is so much better about the LCD panels in the A20?

Probably better quality like color fidelity, faster response time, etc. The optics are probably of higher quality as well. Most of the cost in these TVs is the light engine.

Don't know if this has been discussed before, but I'm interested in buying the A10, but will be moving to South America where they run 220V. Question is, do they make sets here for 220V? Or are they just 110V?

Anyone?

Thanks...

Take a look at this KDF-E50A12U


http://www.sony.co.uk/view/ShowProduct.action?product=KDF-E50A12U&site=odw_en_GB&pageType=Overview&category=TVP+Rear+Projection+TV

TooRad4U ....

As far as furniture goes try roomandboard or ikea

They have websites (this site wont let me post urls yet) and have similar items to what you describe, though not exact.

I've had my KDF-E50A10 since August '05 and have had no problems up until recently. It seems my screen is turning red. :( I started noticing this a few days after my set got the Sony firmware "upgrade".

It started with a red "blob" in the lower right hand corner and smaller ones in the upper left corner and top mid screen. Now it is pretty much covering 80% of the screen. Even white text is looking more red than white. This is happening on every input so it's not my cable box or dvd player.

I've read Sony's faq's page and they mention to move any devices that may produce a magnetic field away from the television. My setup hasn't changed since I've owned the set so I'm pretty sure that's not it.

Anyone else have this problem since the firmware upgrade or ever? Can this be fixed by doing the red push adjustment I've read about on this forum? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I have the cable company scheduled to come by on Wednesday to install a cable card in my 50A10. I do have some questions about it, though, and hope you can help. Does having a cable card improve the PQ since the tuner would be interlacing the signal? Also, I am able to get some HD channels "in the clear" through using a direct cable connection to the tv, as well as, a few PPV and VOD channels that the cable company has left unencrypted. Will I lose these using a cable card, or can the tuner still pick up the digital channels that it does now? My set top box is a Motorola 2000, with no component or S-video output, so I currently have it connected through composites and I am hoping for better PQ using a cable card. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Magnetic fields such as generated by stereo speakers can deflect the electron beam and leave you with a color splotch for CRT television sets.

If you even placed a stereo speaker on the top corner of an old CRT (picture tube) television, you can see the effect on that corner of the screen.

However, as far as I know it should have no effect on a projection LCD set unless it is an unusually strong field that is unlikely to exist in home equipment. Most of the eletronics and the light engine are tucked away in the rear center of your set, so it is much harder to place an object near them that generates a strong magnetic field. Maybe if you put your Sony on top of an NMR machine in a hospital or a chemistry lab, it might act up. :)

Probably better quality like color fidelity, faster response time, etc. The optics are probably of higher quality as well. Most of the cost in these TVs is the light engine.

The A-20 panels have 768 vertical pixels vs 720 for the A-10, and the panels on the A-20 are a tiny bit bigger. Since the sets use 3 separate panels, one for each primary color, color fidelity is probably dependent on the electronics controlling the panels, not the panels themselves. The A-10 and A-20 differ in how they process incoming 1080i, the A-10 method is regarded as being superior.

Tony,

I don't know if unplugging will help, but I used to have this problem many times when I had a cable card.

If I remember correctly, you need to go into WEGA gate and go to settings. Somewhere in there you will find Cablecard. Select cablecard and do a reset. This should then find all of your digital as well as analog channels. As I said, I'm trying to remember this without actually being in front of my tv, but I used to have to do this at least once every week when I had a cable card.

Good luck and I hope this helps.

-Cincy Nick

I am having the exact same problem with my A10 50" and I have Comcast cable but I am NOT using a cable card. I am using Comcast's Motorola 3412 HD DVR. I have had the box for 4 months and the TV for 6 months and have never had this problem before. I can get any other channel except the HD ones. The SD TV in the other room is not having any problem with the HD channels. I even changed out the box and the problem remains only with the A10. Since I don't have a cable card, does anyone have any idea what could be the problem? Thanks for any help!