What kind of entertainment centers are you guys using with these TV's? I have been searching for months and can't quite find what I'm loking for.
I would like:
A TV stand around 50-55" wide and about 24" high.
A tower on each side with shelves for audio equipment - Glass doors are nice also.
A bridge with a shelf above the TV that will hold the Large center channel.
Finish = Black
Anyone have something like this?
JimOne that I like is called the Encore Blackhawk....it's not exactly black but very dark charcoal with silver grey trim. A very attractive unit, IMO, and seems nicely constructed, as A/V furniture goes.

Fry's has a display model but no stock....they have to order, but their price is several hundred dollars less than what I've seen online.

Get off the pipe and go get that brand new 42A10.





alright, I picked up another one (Mexico 02 / '06).

all I can say is it's glaringly obvious the model I bought last fall was defective and not just because of the blue becoming reddish purple "wedge" in the corner.

not only does this one not have any problem of that sort, but the SD channels are incredible. no, that's not an exaggeration. I'm running the cable (Cox) straight in as there was nobody at my local office on Saturday morning to give me a box. once I had poured a little "Dark Rain" on the TV ;) everything was really just amazing.

we have a couple of lower numbered channels that were always just barely watchable on my 24" Wega off the TiVo. I would be glad to blame the TiVo for that but they looked like crap on my original A10 as well.

maybe I didn't fully set the DRC last time, I don't know, fact is, there is nothing at all unpleasurable about watching my SD channels on this set.

HD? well, all I have to go by is what's piped in through my cable which is just ABC, CBS, and PBS (which for us only occassionally actually broadcasts an HD program). I'll spare you the usual "it genetically changed me into a birth giver it was so awesome" hyperbole. I actually kept switching from the Final Four games over to some of my SD stuff because it was that watchable!

the stuff off the TiVo though...well, it looks like I'll just be watching the rest of that off the old TV in the bedroom. maybe a newer, high quality S-Video cable? I dunno. we'll see. gonna be a long wait for that series 3 next fall!


now I think I'm gonna grab Postal1's stand (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6332697&&#post6332697) and try that, I want to get the viewing level down just a bit and this stand should do perfectly.

thanks for the help all, I really appreciate it!

Can't wait till next Saturday! We will be rcving our new KDFE50A10 as a warranty resolution to problems with an RCA HDLP50W151.

Wanted to say thanks to everyone who has posted here. Your inputs have reaffirmed our decision to move over to Sony.

Quick question - should we get the extended warranty? Don't know what Sony offers as warranty goes. (We got the extended on the RCA because it was a floor model and seemed like a good idea - it was!) But if Sony has a really good warranty then we may not have to.

Cheers again!

Can't wait till next Saturday! We will be rcving our new KDFE50A10 as a warranty resolution to problems with an RCA HDLP50W151.

Wanted to say thanks to everyone who has posted here. Your inputs have reaffirmed our decision to move over to Sony.

Quick question - should we get the extended warranty? Don't know what Sony offers as warranty goes. (We got the extended on the RCA because it was a floor model and seemed like a good idea - it was!) But if Sony has a really good warranty then we may not have to.

Cheers again!
Yes Get the extened warranty!!! It is a must for any of the new tv's. Good luck with your new purchase . I have the same one and love it. Enjoy.

Hello all,

I'm very new to all this, so I'm in need of some help. I just bought the Sony 42" KDF-E42A10 and I absolutely love it. I haven't adjusted any of the settings, but I find the picture quality overall is pretty good. Although, I don't think it's the best it can be, and I was wondering if anyone knows what the best settings are for this tv. I don't know everything about all the SSE, SDE, or "pixlation", but when I watched the tv at the store, I didn't see any pixlation at all. Now when I am watching football or even tennis, I notice pixlation any time there is fast motion. To make a long story short, I'm just wondering if there is anything that I can do to help with this issue. Again, I'm fairly new to this, and I just don't' have time to run through all the threads to find what I'm looking for. Maybe someone can let me know what they have their tv set at, and I can try their settings? Thanks for any information

Hello all,

I'm very new to all this, so I'm in need of some help. I just bought the Sony 42" KDF-E42A10 and I absolutely love it. I haven't adjusted any of the settings, but I find the picture quality overall is pretty good. Although, I don't think it's the best it can be, and I was wondering if anyone knows what the best settings are for this tv. I don't know everything about all the SSE, SDE, or "pixlation", but when I watched the tv at the store, I didn't see any pixlation at all. Now when I am watching football or even tennis, I notice pixlation any time there is fast motion. To make a long story short, I'm just wondering if there is anything that I can do to help with this issue. Again, I'm fairly new to this, and I just don't' have time to run through all the threads to find what I'm looking for. Maybe someone can let me know what they have their tv set at, and I can try their settings? Thanks for any information

See the Grand Wega V Tweeks thread here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/show...09&page=1&pp=30

Most people like Dark Rain's settings that are in Post # 23.

Hello all,

I'm very new to all this, so I'm in need of some help. I just bought the Sony 42" KDF-E42A10 and I absolutely love it. I haven't adjusted any of the settings, but I find the picture quality overall is pretty good. Although, I don't think it's the best it can be, and I was wondering if anyone knows what the best settings are for this tv. I don't know everything about all the SSE, SDE, or "pixlation", but when I watched the tv at the store, I didn't see any pixlation at all. Now when I am watching football or even tennis, I notice pixlation any time there is fast motion. To make a long story short, I'm just wondering if there is anything that I can do to help with this issue. Again, I'm fairly new to this, and I just don't' have time to run through all the threads to find what I'm looking for. Maybe someone can let me know what they have their tv set at, and I can try their settings? Thanks for any informationSounds like a weak signal, or cabling problem to me....there are no settings for correcting pixelation, AFIK. Are you on cable, satellite, or OTA?

So the black border issue with the PC input has just taken a back seat to the Video 7 flashing on and off every few minutes. It goes on, stays on, turns off, then turns on again, over and over, there's no rhyme or reason to it. So far as I have read this is known problem on the board, but with no known fix. The only workaround I can see is using the component inputs via a VGA to component cable or going DVI to HDMI. None of the other input menus popup, but could this still be an issue when using the other inputs with a PC? Is there something unique in the PC resolution/settings that would make the input settings do this? It's not like Sony doesn't know how to make computer monitors, It so stupid that they can't make this big TV act just like a computer monitor, i.e. black borders, no native support, and flashing menus. It just started doing it a few days ago, whereas for the last 2 weeks it had never done it. This TV seems to have a degenerative nature to it, must be a software thing?

Yes Get the extened warranty!!! It is a must for any of the new tv's. Good luck with your new purchase . I have the same one and love it. Enjoy.
Ronbo1011 - Many thanks for answering. I kinda knew the answer already given my previous situation with a HD TV, but was probably trying to save a couple $$.

tks agn

would there ever be a time when you might not want to use the DRC for 480 sources?

if you had really good SD quality from your cable co, would that eliminate the need?

I've been trying to visually evaluate a difference with it on or off today and I'm having a tough time making any distinction.

there were moments when I seemed to detect some blurring when it was off but it was difficult to verify without being able to replay the scene (no DVR yet).

and concerning the DVD player...has it ever been definitively decided whether you should leave progressive scan on or off? and what about DRC for that source (component)?

Ronbo1011 - Many thanks for answering. I kinda knew the answer already given my previous situation with a HD TV, but was probably trying to save a couple $$.

tks agn
We all want to save the extra bucks but with the costs to fix these things if the break its better to spent a few extra now than a whole lot later !!!!!!!! Enjoy Glad to be of help.

So the black border issue with the PC input has just taken a back seat to the Video 7 flashing on and off every few minutes. It goes on, stays on, turns off, then turns on again, over and over, there's no rhyme or reason to it. So far as I have read this is known problem on the board, but with no known fix. The only workaround I can see is using the component inputs via a VGA to component cable or going DVI to HDMI. None of the other input menus popup, but could this still be an issue when using the other inputs with a PC? Is there something unique in the PC resolution/settings that would make the input settings do this? It's not like Sony doesn't know how to make computer monitors, It so stupid that they can't make this big TV act just like a computer monitor, i.e. black borders, no native support, and flashing menus. It just started doing it a few days ago, whereas for the last 2 weeks it had never done it. This TV seems to have a degenerative nature to it, must be a software thing?

See here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7388155&&#post7388155

I've had more than one person verify that it fixed the problem. It is most likely a ground loop problem.

Thanks Mr. Pibb, I'll see what I can do assuming it might be a ground loop problem. I haven't made any major changes to the set since it started doing it, like connecting up the antenna or adding another source, it's been in the same configuration for the last two weeks, and just started popping up the other day. So I don't have any immediate "disconnect the last thing connected" scenario to play with. Everything is plugged into the same surge protector, but I can't remember which components have a ground plug or not. The DVD player doesn't, the receiver I don't believe does, the STB doesn't, the PC does, does the TV? It's all buried underneath my entertainment center at the moment so I can't check. And then the cox cable from the wall isn't grounded (not near the TV anyway) and the HD antenna in the attic is not grounded either. So based on that info alone, there could be a ground loop problem. I'll see what I can find out. It's weird though because my daughter just watched an entire movie later tonight and it didn't do it once. There's a ghost in my TV :rolleyes:.

Hi all. I've had the 42 a10 since December. I'm not really picky, but I've never really been happy with the picture. I've tried to find a similar problem on this monster thread, but I don't think I've come across it. Unlike others using the red push fix, my set has a green tinge in areas that should be black. Eg. someones five o'clock shadow has a slight green hue to it. The only settings I've changed are the basic ones by Dark Rain. Dvd or cable has the same problem. Thanks in advance for any help.

So the black border issue with the PC input has just taken a back seat to the Video 7 flashing on and off every few minutes. It goes on, stays on, turns off, then turns on again, over and over, there's no rhyme or reason to it. So far as I have read this is known problem on the board, but with no known fix. The only workaround I can see is using the component inputs via a VGA to component cable or going DVI to HDMI. None of the other input menus popup, but could this still be an issue when using the other inputs with a PC? Is there something unique in the PC resolution/settings that would make the input settings do this? It's not like Sony doesn't know how to make computer monitors, It so stupid that they can't make this big TV act just like a computer monitor, i.e. black borders, no native support, and flashing menus. It just started doing it a few days ago, whereas for the last 2 weeks it had never done it. This TV seems to have a degenerative nature to it, must be a software thing?
i had that problem once when i was watching something from my PC over VGA. it would pop-up about once every minute and was really annoying.

i had yet configured the resolution (the video 7 pop-up menu said it was an un-recognized resolution, or something like that) after Mr.Pibb helped me its working fine now.

would there ever be a time when you might not want to use the DRC for 480 sources?

if you had really good SD quality from your cable co, would that eliminate the need?

I've been trying to visually evaluate a difference with it on or off today and I'm having a tough time making any distinction.

there were moments when I seemed to detect some blurring when it was off but it was difficult to verify without being able to replay the seen (no DVR yet).

and concerning the DVD player...has it ever been definitively decided whether you should leave progressive scan on or off? and what about DRC for that source (component)?

If you want SD to look free from digital artifacts then you can either turn the DRC Palette OFF or set the Reality to 1 and Clarity to 100. You'll get a softer looking SD picture, but you can add more SHARPNESS if needed.

I've got a good analog SD signal going directly into the A10 coax and I use the DRC Palette to help add more sharpness and dimension to the image. The image and color looks too dull with it turned OFF. With the Reality set to 65 and the Clarity set to 63, the picture looks sharper and I see more detail. The side effect to these settings is more graininess and some edge enhancement. But for watching SD on a HDTV, some digital processing is needed to get SD to look more alive. Just adding more SHARPNESS doesn't do much.

If you have a PS DVD player that has a better deinterlacer then use progressive scan on it. Otherwise leave it at 480i and let the A10 upscale and deinterlace the signal. For DVDs I'd leave the DRC Palette OFF or use minimal processing. DRC is only available when the player is set to 480i.

Hi all. I've had the 42 a10 since December. I'm not really picky, but I've never really been happy with the picture. I've tried to find a similar problem on this monster thread, but I don't think I've come across it. Unlike others using the red push fix, my set has a green tinge in areas that should be black. Eg. someones five o'clock shadow has a slight green hue to it. The only settings I've changed are the basic ones by Dark Rain. Dvd or cable has the same problem. Thanks in advance for any help.

Which red push fix parameter are you using? 003b appears to offer the best results. Some people reported this green shadow issue with the color decoder set to 0002.

Just for reference, make sure you're changing BOTH of these settings to get the best color rendering on the A10:

CH_ITU_MODE1 - 0000

CH_AXIS1 - 003b

Also be sure to do it for EVERY input you're using. In other words, go to Video 1 and change those two parameters and press MUTE+Enter to save it. Now go to Video 2 and do the same. In some cases it won't be necessary as the settings you changed on Video 1 will appear the same on Video 2. From my experience I think it relates to the input signal. But in any case check each input you're using to make sure that the settings stick.

if we're going to get an extended warranty (I purchased my TV at Best Buy), should I get one @ BB or should I go to the Sony Style site to get it? Does the Sony Style EW provide unlimited bulbs?

if we're going to get an extended warranty (I purchased my TV at Best Buy), should I get one @ BB or should I go to the Sony Style site to get it? Does the Sony Style EW provide unlimited bulbs?BB warranty states it does cover bulbs, and from my reading, it doesn't limit the number, but some of the sales people have told me it's limited to two....doesn't say that in the warranty tho... :confused:

The Sony warranty specifically excludes bulbs.

FWIW, there's a good deal on a Mack warranty being offered by a dealer in Houston that's covered in a thread somewhere on this forum....do a search for it or maybe someone else will come along shortly who can point you to it.

BB warranty states it does cover bulbs, and from my reading, it doesn't limit the number, but some of the sales people have told me it's limited to two....doesn't say that in the warranty tho... :confused:

The Sony warranty specifically excludes bulbs.

FWIW, there's a good deal on a Mack warranty being offered by a dealer in Houston that's covered in a thread somewhere on this forum....do a search for it or maybe someone else will come along shortly who can point you to it.

Thanks GW. I'll see if I can find anything on that warranty from Houston.

I wonder if I'd be better off just buying a spare bulb OR getting the warranty @ BB...........

Hey everybody,I'm new at this forum,so a I'd like to congratulate you,because i've doubts answered without i post any message... just reading the other topics and etc.

Well,i'd like to know if anyone had test the Grand Wega 42" at 6 - 8 feet,because i getting a "crush" with this tv at a store hehe,but my room is smaller and the distance from the place where the tv will be placed to the couch is about 8 feet.
I've always wanted a bigger tv,to feel like inside the movie hehe, but i have afraid about the distance.

Please tell me if its good or not buy this tv,before a i get crazy!!

(Sorry about the english mistakes,I'm from Brazil but i'm trying to improve my english.) :D

I wonder if I'd be better off just buying a spare bulb OR getting the warranty @ BB...........I wouldn't buy a warranty solely for bulb replacement....that's just one part of the TV, but one that is all but certain to need replacement during the extended warranty period.

Bulbs can be had for under $200 and they will likely become less expensive as time goes on, but even one bulb replacement cuts your real cost of a warranty on the rest of the TV for less than half, and if you buy the Mack warranty, it's almost free!

I don't have an extended warranty because I bought my 50A10 at C***co, but if I had bought it elsewhere I'd be buying the Mack warranty.

Hey everybody,I'm new at this forum,so a I'd like to congratulate you,because i've doubts answered without i post any message... just reading the other topics and etc.

Well,i'd like to know if anyone had test the Grand Wega 42" at 6 - 8 feet,because i getting a "crush" with this tv at a store hehe,but my room is smaller and the distance from the place where the tv will be placed to the couch is about 8 feet.
I've always wanted a bigger tv,to feel like inside the movie hehe, but i have afraid about the distance.

Please tell me if its good or not buy this tv,before a i get crazy!!

(Sorry about the english mistakes,I'm from Brazil but i'm trying to improve my english.) :DI had a 42A10 that I traded for a 50A10....you should be fine at 8 feet, IMO. I got the 50" because my seating is at 10-12 feet and it works better for me.

That's the good news.....the bad news is that Sony will discontinue the 42A10 after Spring 2006 and then your choice will be limited to a 46" screen unless you want to pay much more for an LCD.

Now's a great time to buy the 42A10, IMO, as many dealers are starting to push them out the door at close-out prices.

Buy it from a store that accepts returns if it doesn't work out for you. ;)

Information about the Mack Warranty can be found here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=626704

Basically, for the price of a new bulb ($210) you can extend the manufacturer's warranty for three additional years and get up to two bulb replacements for three years.

Leo- I think a distance of 8 feet is almost ideal for the 42A10. Go ahead and buy it, you know you want it!

Thanks a lot now i will certainly buy this tv without fears hehe

Just one thing... The pixels can not be seen at this distance,or can?? like some lcds that you can view the big pixels forming de picture...

And the view angle is better than the normal projection tvs,or still getting dark the screen?? Because the tv will be at a Family room, and this can be a little problem.

Thanks a lot now i will certainly buy this tv without fears hehe

Just one thing... The pixels can not be seen at this distance,or can?? like some lcds that you can view the big pixels forming de picture...Depends on how good your eyes are....just don't look for them and enjoy! :D

Depends on how good your eyes are....just don't look for them and enjoy! :D



Ahaha i'm laughing with your post, cool :D

And the view angle is better than the normal projection tvs,or still getting dark the screen?? Because the tv will be at a Family room, and this can be a little problem.All rear projection TV's have limited off-axis viewing....you'll just have to try it. I had a problem with it at first but now I don't even notice. If you stand up close to the TV the picture will degrade....similarly if you have kids lying on the floor in front of the TV they may not have satisfactory viewing.

You want to place the TV so that the center of the screen is at eye level....the Sony stand that's made for the TV is just about the right height, IMO. Horizontal off-axis viewing hasn't been a problem for me as all my seating is well away from the screen.

If you can't live with this limitation, then you need to buy a direct view display, such as CRT, LCD, or plasma.

Okay well I've searched through for quite some time and haven't been able to find an answer that satisfies me...

On the subject of upconversion dvd players, progressive scan, and the 42a10. I currently have the Toshiba SD3900 as my prog scan dvd player. My 42a10 will be here on April 11th! What will be the best way to set these up? Since the dvd player isn't an upconverting player (obviously, I got it 2 years ago) what should I set it to? I just got some component cables through monoprice and will use those, but 480i or 480p? I'd always thought 480p, of course, right? Until I was reading that it is best to let the TV handle most of the upconversion, if you have a dvd player that isn't the greatest (because the tv will most likely do a better job). So which is it?

I have looked at and considered a Denon DVD-1920 for $230 refurb or the Oppo-DV971H for $170 refurb. I would much rather not spend the money, as it could go to many other things, as I already have a dvd player...

I'm guessing the smartest thing to do is to wait and see how I like the picture using my current equipment.

I'm guessing the smartest thing to do is to wait and see how I like the picture using my current equipment.

We could suggest how are equipment works best but I think the best test would be to try things out yourself and see what looks better.

My PQ with my dvd player set to progressive doesnt look as good as letting my TV do the upconverting. But others have posted different.

I have given much thought of upgrading my dvd player with the OPPO, which seem to get good reviews here, but have opted to hold out and invest in either a HD-DVD or Blu-Ray player when they come down a bit in price.

Given your dvd player is an older model, I doubt it has an HDMI or DVI output. Component would give you the next best PQ.

Information about the Mack Warranty can be found here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=626704

Basically, for the price of a new bulb ($210) you can extend the manufacturer's warranty for three additional years and get up to two bulb replacements for three years.

Leo- I think a distance of 8 feet is almost ideal for the 42A10. Go ahead and buy it, you know you want it!

Thanks for the link!


I'll give them a call to get more details. pricing, etc. The combo offers they're providing look pretty good too.

Thanks for the link!


I'll give them a call to get more details. pricing, etc. So it sounds like people on AVS have gotten services from them before. From what I'm reading, it looks like you have to have two warranties purchased in conjunction to have the TV covered, and the bulbs too (that's a seperate warranty).

Before you purchase that warranty, do a Google search on the company. I did a search on Mack Warranties and found way to many complaints about the company to feel comfortable about purchasing it.

I'm probably going to purchase the Sony warranty even though it doesn't cover the bulbs. Bulbs are coming down in price so I figure they'll be around $150 or less by the time I need one.

Before you purchase that warranty, do a Google search on the company. I did a search on Mack Warranties and found way to many complaints about the company to feel comfortable about purchasing it.

I'm probably going to purchase the Sony warranty even though it doesn't cover the bulbs. Bulbs are coming down in price so I figure they'll be around $150 or less by the time I need one.

Hehe I just replied to your post on another thread like two seconds ago. Anyways, what did you hear?

Well,i'd like to know if anyone had test the Grand Wega 42" at 6 - 8 feet,because i getting a "crush" with this tv at a store hehe,but my room is smaller and the distance from the place where the tv will be placed to the couch is about 8 feet.
Please tell me if its good or not buy this tv,before a i get crazy!!

I view my 42" A10 at 7 feet and it looks great. I don't even consider 7 feet to be the lower limit.

I think you can go to 6 feet and still be happy but everyone has their personal preferences.

Like I mentioned a few posts ago, I actually tried turning on the High Altitude setting and was surprised that the fan did not get louder - didn't play around a lot with it though, maybe any changes don't take effect until after powering off and back on.

Sounds like I'm one of the few that still notices the fan during normal TV viewing :( The set is completely out of any enclosure and about 8 inches from the wall as well... maybe I'll see if Sony has any suggestions on the topic.

No, you are not the only one. I have one of the TV's built last year that required a firmware upgrade. I was very happy with the TV until the day they upgraded the firmware. Now all I hear is the loud fan noise. Normally, the fan speeds up when you turn on the TV but then calms down to a quiet purr. That doesn't happen anymore. I believe it is a software problem but nobody I've talked with believes me.

Since it is under warrantee, Sony had someone take a look and they couldn't figure it out. They then told me I needed TWO repair shops before they escalated the problem. Well, the second repair shop replaced the $700 light engine/fan system and it didn't help. Sony now tells me I need THREE repair shops before they escalate the problem. What a pain. :mad:

So...went to BB looking for the 42a10. They had it, along with the 50a10. I had my first encounter with a "knowledgable" BB rep.

He introduced me to the Samsung models that appear very similar to the a10 series, but they're RP LCD's rather than RP DLP's.

Has anyone checked these out? Did you go with the Sony?

The Samsung seems brigther and offers greater viewing angles, but the sony seemed smoother in its production of action scenes. Thoughts?

So...went to BB looking for the 42a10. They had it, along with the 50a10. I had my first encounter with a "knowledgable" BB rep.

He introduced me to the Samsung models that appear very similar to the a10 series, but they're RP LCD's rather than RP DLP's.

Has anyone checked these out? Did you go with the Sony?

The Samsung seems brigther and offers greater viewing angles, but the sony seemed smoother in its production of action scenes. Thoughts?I think you got that backwards....the Sony's are RP LCD's and the Samsung's are RP DLP's. ;)

I considered the Samsung RP DLP when I bought my Sony A10....it's about the same value, IMO. I didn't go with Samsung because of the spinning color wheel in the DLP's, and the things I'd read about frequent bulb replacements. I really didn't research it enough to verify the Samsung's rumored faults, and since I perceived the Sony as a safer buy with all the glowing reports from owners, I took the easy way.

There are probably reports somewhere in this forum on the Samsung, if you do a search, but I doubt you'll find too many Samsung DLP owners in the Sony A10 thread....maybe some former owners, tho. :D

Before you purchase that warranty, do a Google search on the company. I did a search on Mack Warranties and found way to many complaints about the company to feel comfortable about purchasing it.

I'm probably going to purchase the Sony warranty even though it doesn't cover the bulbs. Bulbs are coming down in price so I figure they'll be around $150 or less by the time I need one.

The way I read the manufacturer's (not extended) warranty it does cover the bulbs during the first year, doesn't it?

Hi there, i'd start off with the typical long time reader first time poster speech but I dont want you guys to fall asleep

I bought a KF-E42A10 in Feb and im experiencing some odd symptoms that no one else seems to have experienced on these forums. Figured i'd share my story incase there are others out there.

All my inputs except for VGA are busted. The picture doesnt display properly, s-video has no color, coax input is pooched. VGA works great but im puzzled why its the only input that works. Here's a link to pictures & a quick video to see what im talking about. Unfortunately I cant post a url link because of forum restrictions.

members.shaw.ca/surka/

I have a tech coming in tomorrow to take a look. Any input/thoughts from you guys on this one?

-Surka

I think you got that backwards....the Sony's are RP LCD's and the Samsung's are RP DLP's. ;)

I considered the Samsung RP DLP when I bought my Sony A10....it's about the same value, IMO. I didn't go with Samsung because of the spinning color wheel in the DLP's, and the things I'd read about frequent bulb replacements. I really didn't research it enough to verify the Samsung's rumored faults, and since I perceived the Sony as a safer buy with all the glowing reports from owners, I took the easy way.

There are probably reports somewhere in this forum on the Samsung, if you do a search, but I doubt you'll find too many Samsung DLP owners in the Sony A10 thread....maybe some former owners, tho. :D

Opps. Long day haha. I went to the Samsung thread, but came across the same negatives here and there that each TV has. I wanted to see if an A10 owner chose a Sony specifically over a Samsung for reason X.

On the other hand, I immediatly loved the Sony A10....the 50" is what I want, but I think it may be a little big for me (never thought I'd say that!)

Opps. Long day haha. I went to the Samsung thread, but came across the same negatives here and there that each TV has. I wanted to see if an A10 owner chose a Sony specifically over a Samsung for reason X.

On the other hand, I immediatly loved the Sony A10....the 50" is what I want, but I think it may be a little big for me (never thought I'd say that!)

I specifically chose it over the Samsung as I could see the rainbow effect quite pronounced. As I am spending $X,XXX dollars on a TV it needs to be as close to perfection as possible. Also I am an avid gamer (although on a budget) and rainbows are most easily seen during fast action and when I move my eyes across the screen quickly, something you do quite often in games. You'll love the a10 for many many reasons... Now all I have to do is wait for mine to arrive on the 11th! One week left!!

I received my 42" A10 last Friday and waited to set it up until the digital satellite was installed yesterday. Well, maybe I'm easy to please, but this baby looks great right out of the box. I can't see any need to adjust anything. No dead/locked pixels, either.

One question though, if I may. I went to buy a surge protector/ups for the TV today because I read that it's good to keep the fan running to cool down during a power failure. I guess it's to prolong lamp life. Any other reasons I should know about?

Anyhow, I was going to buy an APC model, not too expensive, but the salesman at BB said I should buy a "clean power" unit as well as ups. Can't say that I know anything about the benefit of dirty vs. clean power. Does it really make a noticeable difference? Is it worth the money?

Thanks for any advice.

I received my 42" A10 last Friday and waited to set it up until the digital satellite was installed yesterday. Well, maybe I'm easy to please, but this baby looks great right out of the box. I can't see any need to adjust anything. No dead/locked pixels, either.

One question though, if I may. I went to buy a surge protector/ups for the TV today because I read that it's good to keep the fan running to cool down during a power failure. I guess it's to prolong lamp life. Any other reasons I should know about?

Anyhow, I was going to buy an APC model, not too expensive, but the salesman at BB said I should buy a "clean power" unit as well as ups. Can't say that I know anything about the benefit of dirty vs. clean power. Does it really make a noticeable difference? Is it worth the money?

Thanks for any advice.There are two extremes here....the sales people trying to sell high profit, expensive, and mostly unnecessary power conditioners....and those who'll come along here and tell you that you don't need any such protection. :rolleyes:

I'm from the school of thought that says you need protection in the form of a quality UPS/surge protector, and that power conditioners are generally for the person with the $20k home theater, who needs just one more gadget to impress his friends. Look at it this way....this isn't your first TV is it? Have you had power quality issues in the past? You said the picture looks great, so what's the problem?

A UPS can possibly extend lamp life, but in any case I like the insurance. I got mine to provide continuous power to the cooling fan on my RP, and also to my two DVR's. I don't want to lose my program info or interrupt a scheduled recording if an outage should occur.

I don't believe in necessarily spending a lot on such equipment, but some of the very cheap products are probably not worth having and only give a false sense of security. Well respected brands include APC, Tripp-Lite, Belkin, etc.

I personally have the Tripp-Lite SMART1000LCD 1000va UPS/surge protector....got it at a well known warehouse store (C***co) for $99. It's specifically sold for home theater use. It has 8 outlets, four surge-protected/UPS, and four surge-protected only. It can be used vertically or horizontally for rack mount.

That's my story and I'm stickin' to it... ;)

...snip...

I'm from the school of thought that says you need protection in the form of a quality UPS/surge protector, and that power conditioners are generally for the person with the $20k home theater, who needs just one more gadget to impress his friends. Look at it this way....this isn't your first TV is it? Have you had power quality issues in the past? You said the picture looks great, so what's the problem?




Hasn't there been some recent information that says that surge protectors can't choke off the power fast enough to avoid damage to home theater electronics??
Or is that just a myth to help sell power conditioners and UPS?

Does anybody have a modeline for the E42A10? I see the one for the 50", but that doesn't seem to work for the 42".

Dan

Hehe I just replied to your post on another thread like two seconds ago. Anyways, what did you hear?

Just do a Google search and you'll see what I'm talking about. Believe me, I didn't make it up. I really wanted to purchase the cheapest warranty available and the Mack Warranty fits the bill at $210 with bulb coverage. But when I read about the company taking more than 4 weeks to authorize repair on something, it doesn't leave a good feeling in my stomach. I've heard repair authorization delays are a common occurence with them. I really don't want that hassel. Others complained about their product not being repaired after a few visits from the tech. Even more people complained that Mack tries to blame the damage on the owner so they don't have to cover the repairs. After repeated calls to Mack, they finally agree to repair the item.

Like I said before... Just do a Google search on the company and start reading. You'll see what I'm talking about. You might think the complaints are superficial, but to me, it puts up a red flag. Good Luck. ;)

I view my 42" A10 at 7 feet and it looks great. I don't even consider 7 feet to be the lower limit.

I think you can go to 6 feet and still be happy but everyone has their personal preferences.

You'd start seeing SDE at 6 feet. I'm at about 7.5 feet from my 42A10, and when I move in to around 6.5 feet I start to see SDE.

Just do a Google search and you'll see what I'm talking about. Believe me, I didn't make it up. I really wanted to purchase the cheapest warranty available and the Mack Warranty fits the bill at $210 with bulb coverage. But when I read about the company taking more than 4 weeks to authorize repair on something, it doesn't leave a good feeling in my stomach. I've heard repair authorization delays are a common occurence with them. I really don't want that hassel. Others complained about their product not being repaired after a few visits from the tech. Even more people complained that Mack tries to blame the damage on the owner so they don't have to cover the repairs. After repeated calls to Mack, they finally agree to repair the item.

Like I said before... Just do a Google search on the company and start reading. You'll see what I'm talking about. You might think the complaints are superficial, but to me, it puts up a red flag. Good Luck. ;)That's the beauty of a warranty from a well established B&M store I guess....you pay more to say, a BB, but if something goes wrong, you know where they live!

Like the saying goes, "you pays your money and takes your chances".:D

That's the beauty of a warranty from a well established B&M store I guess....you pay more to say, a BB, but if something goes wrong, you know where they live!

Like the saying goes, "you pays your money and takes your chances".:D

I have read numerous posts on the net about how bestbuys extended service plans are a huge waste of money. They send the item out to their repair places and it takes months for the item to come back and usually it comes back still broke with the same problem, or they fixed that problem and broke something else on it when they fixed it. But I am not sure what they would do with big screen tv's, since it is a pain to bring those into the stores. Also do not trust what the employees tell you at bestbuy about the service plans. They are told to sell as many as they can no matter what. I have heard BB employees tell someone buying an ipod that if there ever was a problem and they bought the plan, just bring in the ipod and they would replace it with a new one, but from talking to a friend who had an ipod problem, they don't replace it, they send it to their repair shop to be fixed.
Not sure if this is just a few isolated cases or not, just read the fine print so there are no surprises.

I have read numerous posts on the net about how bestbuys extended service plans are a huge waste of money. They send the item out to their repair places and it takes months for the item to come back and usually it comes back still broke with the same problem, or they fixed that problem and broke something else on it when they fixed it. But I am not sure what they would do with big screen tv's, since it is a pain to bring those into the stores. Also do not trust what the employees tell you at bestbuy about the service plans. They are told to sell as many as they can no matter what. I have heard BB employees tell someone buying an ipod that if there ever was a problem and they bought the plan, just bring in the ipod and they would replace it with a new one, but from talking to a friend who had an ipod problem, they don't replace it, they send it to their repair shop to be fixed.
Not sure if this is just a few isolated cases or not, just read the fine print so there are no surprises.

I actually had a good experience with BB's service plan. I bought a computer package worth a few g's...monitor, tower, printer, faxer, surround sound, APC back-up....etc

My surround sound $300+ stopped working because the amp blewout. The service tech tested the unit in-front of me, it didn't work, so they replaced it at no cost.

On the other hand, I bought an indash cd player at BB and when they installed it they disconnected the 4x4 plug. I bought the service plan, but it covered only the unit and not installation. Anyways, I noticed my 4x4 failing weeks after the installation (in a snow storm no less) and I went to ford to check the problem out. They fixed it for $50 and when I gave the bill to BB they said tough luck, but they would have done it for free. In hindsight, I would have had BB handle it had I known they were tinkering with my 4x4 :mad: In the end I spoke with the manager and got a $30 gift card for BB...not bad.

I think it really depends on which BB you go to....some reps are kool and knowledgable and others just want to screw the consumer and sell what they can.

In the end I've had good experiences and bad with both service plans and extended warranty's from manufacturers. With a purchase like a $2000+ TV, I'm going to buy the plan. At least then I'm assured it will be fixed, replaced, refunded, etc if I have any problems.

I just bought the 50" Sony. WOW it's huge! :) and very nice indeed...one problem though. I have my htpc connected with dvi -> hdmi to the tv and everything is working fine except the tv's aspect ratio. I can't change it... it is stuck at "wide". I've tried with the xbox 360 connected true component and you can change the aspect ratio to 4:3, wide, smart etc...
I've tried to disable the "automatic aspect ratio" option but it doesn't help.

My htpc is running MCE 2005 with Geforce 6600gt. The resolution is se to 720p. Hope you can help me.

WOW it's huge! :) and very nice indeed....

That's what my wife said....but not about my A10, if you know what I mean. Anyway, Mr. Pibb should be able to help you with your HTPC aspect ratio problem. He knows his stuff.

I have read numerous posts on the net about how bestbuys extended service plans are a huge waste of money. They send the item out to their repair places and it takes months for the item to come back and usually it comes back still broke with the same problem, or they fixed that problem and broke something else on it when they fixed it. But I am not sure what they would do with big screen tv's, since it is a pain to bring those into the stores. Also do not trust what the employees tell you at bestbuy about the service plans. They are told to sell as many as they can no matter what. I have heard BB employees tell someone buying an ipod that if there ever was a problem and they bought the plan, just bring in the ipod and they would replace it with a new one, but from talking to a friend who had an ipod problem, they don't replace it, they send it to their repair shop to be fixed.
Not sure if this is just a few isolated cases or not, just read the fine print so there are no surprises.My point is "if you know where they live", you stand a better chance of getting satisfaction. I haven't met the sales person, customer rep, or store manager that wanted to see me walk back thru their doors after an unpleasant encounter....no brag, just fact. If you don't stand up for yourself, nobody else will. :cool:

My point is "if you know where they live", you stand a better chance of getting satisfaction. I haven't met the sales person, customer rep, or store manager that wanted to see me walk back thru their doors after an unpleasant encounter....no brag, just fact. If you don't stand up for yourself, nobody else will. :cool:

Ya, I am sure they would be more pleasant and willign to help more for one of the more expensive items like HDTV's, but less expensive stuff like ipods probabally won't receive the same type of treatment.

Ya, I am sure they would be more pleasant and willign to help more for one of the more expensive items like HDTV's, but less expensive stuff like ipods probabally won't receive the same type of treatment.You haven't seen me at work....

I just bought the 50" Sony. WOW it's huge! :) and very nice indeed...one problem though. I have my htpc connected with dvi -> hdmi to the tv and everything is working fine except the tv's aspect ratio. I can't change it... it is stuck at "wide". I've tried with the xbox 360 connected true component and you can change the aspect ratio to 4:3, wide, smart etc...
I've tried to disable the "automatic aspect ratio" option but it doesn't help.

My htpc is running MCE 2005 with Geforce 6600gt. The resolution is se to 720p. Hope you can help me.
That's what my wife said....but not about my A10, if you know what I mean. Anyway, Mr. Pibb should be able to help you with your HTPC aspect ratio problem. He knows his stuff.

Thanks Melanotheron. :D

Unfortunatlely, though, my "stuff" doesn't include using the PC through the HDMI input. I tried it when I first got the TV and it seemed to insist on not taking the computer resolution for what it was and insisted on "modifying" it to fit the screen the way it wanted to.

Quinda, what I DO know is that using the VGA input on the TV yields an absolutely amazing picture. To get it to work correctly, you have to set up custom timings using Powerstrip. See the link in my signature for instructions. Some day I may try to hook up my DVI->HDMI cable and try again, but I'm happy for now so I haven't had a need to fool with it! :cool:

I just bought the 50" Sony. WOW it's huge! :) and very nice indeed...one problem though. I have my htpc connected with dvi -> hdmi to the tv and everything is working fine except the tv's aspect ratio. I can't change it... it is stuck at "wide". I've tried with the xbox 360 connected true component and you can change the aspect ratio to 4:3, wide, smart etc...
I've tried to disable the "automatic aspect ratio" option but it doesn't help.

My htpc is running MCE 2005 with Geforce 6600gt. The resolution is se to 720p. Hope you can help me.

Most HD sets lock into full (or "wide") when they recieve an HD scanrate (720p or 1080i) There's nothing wrong with the set. Perhaps there's some chance of correcting the aspect ratio being sent out by the HTPC.

So I already posted this, but got no response and I am hoping someone could tell me what was up:

I hope to god that you guys will tell me this is a source issue and not a TV issue. My problem is that somewhat often when watching TV I will get a vertical line that is not in tune with the rest of the picture. For example I may have someone talking against a blue background, and running down that person's face are blue pixels. Almost as if the background is leaking through. It's odd though, because the problem is not always present, and usually not(if ever) the same group of pixels that are showing this. It seems to only occur on standard definition and usually when I do the "Wide Zoom" (although I have noticed it w/o zooming) I can't recall ever noticing it on the HD channels. I am worried about this being the dreaded "dead pixels" but again, it doesn't seem to be consistently the same area, nor does it always happen. Any ideas? Is this SSE? I see that term thrown around on these boards, but have no idea what that is. Anyway it is very annoying on standard definition, but it doesn't seem to happen w/ the xbox or high definition.

So I already posted this, but got no response and I am hoping someone could tell me what was up:

I hope to god that you guys will tell me this is a source issue and not a TV issue. My problem is that somewhat often when watching TV I will get a vertical line that is not in tune with the rest of the picture. For example I may have someone talking against a blue background, and running down that person's face are blue pixels. Almost as if the background is leaking through. It's odd though, because the problem is not always present, and usually not(if ever) the same group of pixels that are showing this. It seems to only occur on standard definition and usually when I do the "Wide Zoom" (although I have noticed it w/o zooming) I can't recall ever noticing it on the HD channels. I am worried about this being the dreaded "dead pixels" but again, it doesn't seem to be consistently the same area, nor does it always happen. Any ideas? Is this SSE? I see that term thrown around on these boards, but have no idea what that is. Anyway it is very annoying on standard definition, but it doesn't seem to happen w/ the xbox or high definition.

got a picture of it happening?

Thanks Melanotheron. :D

Unfortunatlely, though, my "stuff" doesn't include using the PC through the HDMI input. I tried it when I first got the TV and it seemed to insist on not taking the computer resolution for what it was and insisted on "modifying" it to fit the screen the way it wanted to.

Quinda, what I DO know is that using the VGA input on the TV yields an absolutely amazing picture. To get it to work correctly, you have to set up custom timings using Powerstrip. See the link in my signature for instructions. Some day I may try to hook up my DVI->HDMI cable and try again, but I'm happy for now so I haven't had a need to fool with it! :cool:

Thx for posting so soon Mr.Pibb. I tried using 720p true the VGA but it doesn't work. The VGA port supports only 1024 x 768. I looked up the VGA port in the manual and it says that the max resolution is 1024 x 768. I live in Finland and my TV model is 50a11 and not a10. It's looks the same and the technic is probably the same but the model number differs.

With the dvi -> hdmi cable everything is really working perfect. I get the desktop to fill the whole screen and it looks good. When I watch dvd's trough my htpc, is when i would like to change the aspect ratio of the tv. I would to like use "SMART" instead of "WIDE", so the dvd movie would fill the whole screen. It's really bugging me... If i watch dvd's with the xbox 360 I can change the aspect ratio to whatever I want and the dvd movie fills the whole screen. Hope you can help me with this...

Recently I upgraded my old RS 160" uhf/vhf antenna on a 30' tower/rotor with a CM 4228 UHF antenna, Wade vip-306 VHF antenna, CM Titan 7777 pre-amp.
Before the upgrade, I could not pick up some Cleveland, OH digital stations about 40 miles north of me . Some drop-outs and pixelation. After the upgrade I got all the HD stations with signal strengths from 92-98 % with no drop-outs or pixelation. The only HD station I could not get was WJW-DT ( FOX channel 8.1) assigned frequency of 31. I could get the analog WJW at channel 8 but not a lock on HD channel 8.1.
After playing around with rotor changes and looking for other channels, by accident I locked in WJW-DT at 31.3. It did not come in at 31.1. I have read that some ASTC receivers do not pick up some channels at the common channel number. Something to do what they refer to as PSIP data. Strange ,but WJW-DT at 31.3 comes in the best of any other stations.
What is "PSIP" and does the Sony A-10 ASTC tuner have some quirky lock-ups of some HD stations and not others ? Any solutions or explanations ?

Recently I upgraded my old RS 160" uhf/vhf antenna on a 30' tower/rotor with a CM 4228 UHF antenna, Wade vip-306 VHF antenna, CM Titan 7777 pre-amp.
Before the upgrade, I could not pick up some Cleveland, OH digital stations about 40 miles north of me . Some drop-outs and pixelation. After the upgrade I got all the HD stations with signal strengths from 92-98 % with no drop-outs or pixelation. The only HD station I could not get was WJW-DT ( FOX channel 8.1) assigned frequency of 31. I could get the analog WJW at channel 8 but not a lock on HD channel 8.1.
After playing around with rotor changes and looking for other channels, by accident I locked in WJW-DT at 31.3. It did not come in at 31.1. I have read that some ASTC receivers do not pick up some channels at the common channel number. Something to do what they refer to as PSIP data. Strange ,but WJW-DT at 31.3 comes in the best of any other stations.
What is "PSIP" and does the Sony A-10 ASTC tuner have some quirky lock-ups of some HD stations and not others ? Any solutions or explanations ?

PSIP is additional information that is passed along with the DTV signal. I haven't had 5 posts, so I can't post a link, but for a more detailed explanation, go to the hdtvprimer dott com web site and click on "what exactly is ATSC". It's explained at the bottom of that page (with a lot of other excellent info!).

Here is my justification to buy an A10.

1. I am a gamer, so Plasma and DLP is out of my options.

2. I like Flat panel LCD better for the following reasons,

A. Life span longer (60,000 hours vs 6,000 hours)
B. Much higher contrast ratio (Black is real back, white is real white)
C. No side effect (no SDE or whatever )
D. Thinner(could be on the wall)
E. No bulb replacement concern(once for lifetime deal)

However, a 40" sony flat panel LCD costs $2800 at BB as of today (March 31, 2006). I expect a same size flat panel LCD (50") and simliar price ($2000) to be in market in 2-3 years. However, I don't want another 2-3 years for it. Kids are underway by then, have to enjoy life first.

3. XBR has actually better PQ. However, this cannot justify $1500 difference.

A10 price and size fits into my budget and needs. So I will pull the trigger.

Edit: I meant flat panel LCD



Are you saying that the lifespan of the A10 is 6000 hours total or are you talking about bulb life? Anyone?

Recently I upgraded my old RS 160" uhf/vhf antenna on a 30' tower/rotor with a CM 4228 UHF antenna, Wade vip-306 VHF antenna, CM Titan 7777 pre-amp.
Before the upgrade, I could not pick up some Cleveland, OH digital stations about 40 miles north of me . Some drop-outs and pixelation. After the upgrade I got all the HD stations with signal strengths from 92-98 % with no drop-outs or pixelation. The only HD station I could not get was WJW-DT ( FOX channel 8.1) assigned frequency of 31. I could get the analog WJW at channel 8 but not a lock on HD channel 8.1.
After playing around with rotor changes and looking for other channels, by accident I locked in WJW-DT at 31.3. It did not come in at 31.1. I have read that some ASTC receivers do not pick up some channels at the common channel number. Something to do what they refer to as PSIP data. Strange ,but WJW-DT at 31.3 comes in the best of any other stations.
What is "PSIP" and does the Sony A-10 ASTC tuner have some quirky lock-ups of some HD stations and not others ? Any solutions or explanations ?

This occurs for me from time to time using an HD-Tivo. It is caused by faulty psip data from the broadcast station. My local pbs is analog channel 18 but digital 40-1 and 40-1. It will show up also as 18-1 and 18-2 on the guide but if you tune those channels you get a "searching for signal" message. The guide data shows up both at 18-x and 40-x, so it doesn't screw up my tivo recordings but it's still ridiculous that the idiots at the station haven't fixed this by now.

The 6000 hours was the estimated bulb life under normal circumstances.

This occurs for me from time to time using an HD-Tivo. It is caused by faulty psip data from the broadcast station. My local pbs is analog channel 18 but digital 40-1 and 40-1. It will show up also as 18-1 and 18-2 on the guide but if you tune those channels you get a "searching for signal" message. The guide data shows up both at 18-x and 40-x, so it doesn't screw up my tivo recordings but it's still ridiculous that the idiots at the station haven't fixed this by now.

HD-Tivo?, What unit are you using for OTA HD recording? I'm considering the SONY DHG-HDD500. Will the real HD Tivo ever come out?

this quote came off http://www.hdtvprimer.com/ISSUES/hints.html

How often does the mirror in my RPTV need cleaned?

This varies a lot. If a lot of cooking occurs in the house, once per year is typical. Fireplace usage can make cleaning necessary in only a couple months. But the set might go for many years if there is electrostatic air cleaning and no smoke sources.

I wish I could install an air filter on my 50a10.

I wish I could install an air filter on my 50a10.
According to Poodlehead, who posted this on another thread, it already has one.

I have cleaned 3 610's and considering the amount of time it takes to do it correctly $225 is very reasonable. 655's are virtually the same. the A10's have a air filter on the optics cooling fan.

a10 air filter.

Is there access so it can be cleaned or changed?

Red Push Fix For Dummies

Could some repost the procedure of the red push fix basically for dummies who have never entered a tv service menu? I have seen the procedure but the one that is posted now seems to leave me paranoid for disaster. If it could be explained for rookies, I think it would not only be great for me but alot of other people as well wanting to do it.

Red Push Fix For Dummies

Could some repost the procedure of the red push fix basically for dummies who have never entered a tv service menu? I have seen the procedure but the one that is posted now seems to leave me paranoid for disaster. If it could be explained for rookies, I think it would not only be great for me but alot of other people as well wanting to do it.

Here's a repost made by D-V-C that should make it a bit easier to do:



REVISED PUSH/PULL SETTINGS -- Sunday, March 19, 2006

Start with a TV where all needed inputs have already been configured to best custom mode settings.

(step 1) Select the desired input: Press [TV/Video] to select the input. Start with either an SD or HD signal.

(step 2) If necessary, turn off TV and wait for bulb to turn off

(step 3) Press the following 4 key sequence without a pause:
[display] [5] [Volume +] [Power]

(step 4) Wait for the debug screen to appear

(step 5) Confirm the correct SD or HD input is present. If this is your second pass on this input, switch the source signal’s resolution. To select a new input: Press [TV/Video].

(step 6) Press [jump] twice (2) to get to service data screen

(step 7) Press [2] eight (8) times to get to CST category. The 8th time you press [2] is when you'll see the CH_ITU_MODE1 mode.

(step 8) Write down current setting

(step 9) Press [6] to decrement or [3] to increment the value.

*Correction by me, Dark Rain: The value here should be set to 0000.

(step 10) Press [1] once to get to CH_AXIS 1 item. You'll see the CH_AXIS1 mode.

(step 11) Write down current setting

(step 12) Press [6] to decrement or [3] to increment the value

*Correction by me, Dark Rain: The value here should be set to 003B.

(step 13) To save the new value, push [mute] -- notice in the upper-right corner the word WRITE is displayed -- then push [enter] and wait for WRITE to turn red. Skip this step for no change. (Setting will stay without write until the set is unplugged.)

(step 14) Press [jump] to return to the debug screen

Repeat steps (5) through (13) for an SD signal and for a HD signal for the selected INPUT, skipping steps (9) through (12) if the value is already correct.

(step 11) From debug screen press [power] to turn the TV.

I just went out to buy a E50A10 today. I've researched them for a while (reading lots of posts) and have seen many of them in various shops, always giving a very nice image - until now :(

I took a dvd in (Hardball) to play on the unit. I chose this dvd because I just watched it with my wife and it seemed a good comparison - (29" Panasonic CRT). The shore tech fired up the dvd and I was horrified to see all the seeming noise in the image. At one point Keanu turned his head and the image where it had been turned all liquid - like out of focus (motion blur??) before it settled down again when his movement had stopped. I don't really know all the correct terms. It looked terrible. It instantly turned me cold! (even made worse because the guy in the store is leaving in two days and said he would do me one at cost!)

We tried the 42" version right beside it and got the same thing.

Is this normal for this TV? Can this be corrected through tweaking?

If not, what sort of TV do you suggest? (I like watching 4:3 shows in the correct aspect ratio - bars on the side - so I'm worried a plasma/LCD will burn in).

I haven't seen this mentioned in the forum (that I can remember). I'm planning a trip to the Sony store tommorow to get their take on the situation - but please help.

Thx in advance.

I want to thank all for the time and effort in this thread. A real help to make the right choice for a expensive products.

I went to Cosco to purchase a E50A10/4 but when I checked the build date it was November 2005. Five months just seems too long !!

I also am worried about Sony EW not covering the bulb's. Are the bulbs covered under the first year of Sony's standard warranty ?

Love Cosco's return policy but is 5 months to old ?

Thanks again to All

The question of whether Sony's warranty covers bulbs is one that is debated often on this thread. The warranty itself does not mention bulbs or lamps, but does say that the warranty does not cover "consumables", such as fuses or batteries. However, the first sentence of the warranty states that "Sony warrants this Product (including any accessories) against defects in material or workmanship". Furthermore, it says that some exclusions may not apply, depending on the state you live in. Before I bought my A10, I called the Sony number and was told that the Manufacturer's Limited Warranty does NOT cover replacement of bulbs, since it is a consumable item. Someone else on this thread said that they will replace bulbs up to a certain number of hours (2000, maybe, I don't remember exactly) because, then, the bad bulb would be considered a defective part.

I just went out to buy a E50A10 today. I've researched them for a while (reading lots of posts) and have seen many of them in various shops, always giving a very nice image - until now :(

I took a dvd in (Hardball) to play on the unit. I chose this dvd because I just watched it with my wife and it seemed a good comparison - (29" Panasonic CRT). The shore tech fired up the dvd and I was horrified to see all the seeming noise in the image. At one point Keanu turned his head and the image where it had been turned all liquid - like out of focus (motion blur??) before it settled down again when his movement had stopped. I don't really know all the correct terms. It looked terrible. It instantly turned me cold! (even made worse because the guy in the store is leaving in two days and said he would do me one at cost!)

We tried the 42" version right beside it and got the same thing.

Is this normal for this TV? Can this be corrected through tweaking?

If not, what sort of TV do you suggest? (I like watching 4:3 shows in the correct aspect ratio - bars on the side - so I'm worried a plasma/LCD will burn in).

I haven't seen this mentioned in the forum (that I can remember). I'm planning a trip to the Sony store tommorow to get their take on the situation - but please help.

Thx in advance.I have owned the 42A10 and now the 50A10 and have not seen that problem....i think you need to take a second look at that DVD player. ;)

I want to thank all for the time and effort in this thread. A real help to make the right choice for a expensive products.

I went to Cosco to purchase a E50A10/4 but when I checked the build date it was November 2005. Five months just seems too long !!

I also am worried about Sony EW not covering the bulb's. Are the bulbs covered under the first year of Sony's standard warranty ?

Love Cosco's return policy but is 5 months to old ?

Thanks again to AllI recently bought my 50A10 at C***co and it has a build date of 11/05....why is that a problem? Your warranty starts from date of purchase, not the date of manufacture.

Large discount stores probably buy quantity lots of merchandise and stock them in their own warehouses, so the build date depends on when the lot was delivered to the warehouse. That 11/05 date may be the latest one you'll ever see at C***co because they may not stock it again after current supplies run out.

The previous build date I saw for the 50A10 at C***co was 06/05.

The 42A10 I had previously had a build date of 02/06, but unless there is a known issue with a particular build, I don't see the problem.

Caveat: If it's a display model with a 11/05 date, I'd stay away from it....it may have been operating 12 hours a day for five months. ;)

<snip>Are the bulbs covered under the first year of Sony's standard warranty?<snip>If you buy at C***co it doesn't matter....they will cover it. Talk to your local management for specific policies. The policy is loose and gives them discretion against abusers, but I've been assured they will replace if it fails within a year, or any "reasonable" period. ;)

I've read a ton of reviews but before I go out and buy a new TV I thought I'd ask which do you guys think is better.. I was looking at 2 TV's one is 42A10 and the 50A10.. From what I've read so far the 42A10 got better reviews and seems to have a better picture but its always good to ask..

I have the 50" model and iam very happy, I could have got the 42 ofcourse, but I wanted a bigger tv! haha. no complaints.

I've read a ton of reviews but before I go out and buy a new TV I thought I'd ask which do you guys think is better.. I was looking at 2 TV's one is 42A10 and the 50A10.. From what I've read so far the 42A10 got better reviews and seems to have a better picture but its always good to ask..

I'm debating between the 42 and 50 myself and right now I'm leaning towards the 42 only because at a viewing distance of 9 feet, the 50 just doesn't seem as sharp to me in the stores. Plus my peripheral vision can't take in the whole screen at that distance.

But from a longer distance, the 50 seems great. I just don't have the room or the eyes for it.

I'm debating between the 42 and 50 myself and right now I'm leaning towards the 42 only because at a viewing distance of 9 feet, the 50 just doesn't seem as sharp to me in the stores. Plus my peripheral vision can't take in the whole screen at that distance.

But from a longer distance, the 50 seems great. I just don't have the room or the eyes for it.

What size are you coming from?

What size are you coming from?
A 12 year old Sony 27" tube. It still looks good, IMO, just want to move up to a big screen.

I have the 50" model and iam very happy, I could have got the 42 ofcourse, but I wanted a bigger tv! haha. no complaints.

Hey, REFLEX! Nice to see you back on this thread! Did you get your surround sound system set up yet?

I've read a ton of reviews but before I go out and buy a new TV I thought I'd ask which do you guys think is better.. I was looking at 2 TV's one is 42A10 and the 50A10.. From what I've read so far the 42A10 got better reviews and seems to have a better picture but its always good to ask..

The reason the 42A10 looks better to you is that it has a smaller screen, and, therefore, the imperfections in the PQ are not magnified as much. Consider your seating distance, since I almost bought a 42" for the same reasons as you, but in the end, went with the 50" and like REFLEX, I am very happy with my choice.

I just went out to buy a E50A10 today. I've researched them for a while (reading lots of posts) and have seen many of them in various shops, always giving a very nice image - until now :(

I took a dvd in (Hardball) to play on the unit. I chose this dvd because I just watched it with my wife and it seemed a good comparison - (29" Panasonic CRT). The shore tech fired up the dvd and I was horrified to see all the seeming noise in the image. At one point Keanu turned his head and the image where it had been turned all liquid - like out of focus (motion blur??) before it settled down again when his movement had stopped. I don't really know all the correct terms. It looked terrible. It instantly turned me cold! (even made worse because the guy in the store is leaving in two days and said he would do me one at cost!)

We tried the 42" version right beside it and got the same thing.

Is this normal for this TV? Can this be corrected through tweaking?

If not, what sort of TV do you suggest? (I like watching 4:3 shows in the correct aspect ratio - bars on the side - so I'm worried a plasma/LCD will burn in).

I haven't seen this mentioned in the forum (that I can remember). I'm planning a trip to the Sony store tommorow to get their take on the situation - but please help.

Thx in advance.


I'm happy to say the trip to the Sony store was well worth the effort. I saw a DVD play and a HD demo disc and the PQ was stunning. I can only think the previous store had a crap DVD player, cable or something.

Went out and brought the 50" straight after and am so far pleased. LOTR looks awesome, but I'm still working through some issues with our new RXV2600 - not sure if the up-scaling is working properly yet?

How is picture quality with PS2 using component inputs & quality with dvd player with component inputs & quality with Comcast DCT 6412 III using HDMI , Standard & HD ? Any help would be appreciated tried searching this forum some but it is big so it is a bit difficult. Any helped would be appreciated

Hey everyone. Reading these boards partly factored in my buying the 50A10. I got the TV yesterday and I have a slight problem -- I think my living room is too small for it.

I am sitting about 9ft away. The picture doesn't look as good as it should, but does look better when I stand a few feet behind my couch (moving the couch further back isn't an option).

So far the best source I have is my XBox 360. I have watched DVDs and played games. The games look great, but I think everything would look better on the 42A10.

Should I get the smaller TV or will I just get used to it.

Thanks.

Hey everyone. Reading these boards partly factored in my buying the 50A10. I got the TV yesterday and I have a slight problem -- I think my living room is too small for it.

I am sitting about 9ft away. The picture doesn't look as good as it should, but does look better when I stand a few feet behind my couch (moving the couch further back isn't an option).

So far the best source I have is my XBox 360. I have watched DVDs and played games. The games look great, but I think everything would look better on the 42A10.

Should I get the smaller TV or will I just get used to it.

Thanks.

I would probably think about exchanging for the 42 cause its a perfect fit for that kind of room.

Hey everyone. Reading these boards partly factored in my buying the 50A10. I got the TV yesterday and I have a slight problem -- I think my living room is too small for it.

I am sitting about 9ft away.
This is exactly the debate I'm having right now. I mostly sit around 9ft away with the occassional viewing at 13ft. Based on what I've seen in the showrooms, I'm leaning towards the 42 inch because my eyes can't seem to handle the big screen at that distance. Other folks on this board have reported no issue at that distance, though. Just a matter of preference.

I would probably think about exchanging for the 42 cause its a perfect fit for that kind of room.Agreed....I had the 42" for a couple of weeks and traded up to the 50". My seating is about 11-12 feet and this works well for the 50"....9 feet would be a little close, but I could live with it....but given the choice, and the fact you'll be getting a virtually identical but smaller set, I'd probably make the change. With the difference in price you could get the matching Sony stand if you don't have it.... :cool:

Too bad the new 46-inchers aren't out yet. :(

So it's been a few hours, during which I went out and got an HD antenna (should order the DirecTV HD box this weeK). All I can say now is WOW. I am loving the way this TV looks.

But, that said, I am still debating about the smaller set. Not sure, but thanks for the opinions thus far.

So it's been a few hours, during which I went out and got an HD antenna (should order the DirecTV HD box this weeK). All I can say now is WOW. I am loving the way this TV looks.

But, that said, I am still debating about the smaller set. Not sure, but thanks for the opinions thus far.

For HD sources I think you will find the 50A10 to be fine from 9 to 10 feet away, however if you are like me and watching mostly SD material via DVD or SAT/Cable, then the 42A10 will likely look better albiet smaller. I have had both and find the 42A10 to have much better picture from 10' away on SD material.

Half

For HD sources I think you will find the 50A10 to be fine from 9 to 10 feet away, however if you are like me and watching mostly SD material via DVD or SAT/Cable, then the 42A10 will likely look better albiet smaller. I have had both and find the 42A10 to have much better picture from 10' away on SD material.Funny thing is I had the same thought when I first brought the 50" home....until a few hours later when my wife (who normally could care less) volunteered that she liked the picture on the 50" better than the 42"! ;) Now, with the 42" out of sight, out of mind, I can't say there's a difference I'd notice, and if there is a slight PQ edge for the 42", I still wouldn't trade it for the extra display real estate....I'll be going for a 60"+ next time. (Will they allow that in a nursing home?) :)

---------------------------------------------------------------------
PowerStrip timing parameters:
1232x696=1232,112,128,192,696,45,5,50,79392,2050

Generic timing details for 1232x696:
HFP=112 HSW=128 HBP=192 kHz=48 VFP=45 VSW=5 VBP=50 Hz=60

VESA detailed timing details:
PClk=79.39 H.Active=1232 H.Blank=432 H.Offset=96 HSW=128 V.Active=696 V.Blank=100 V.Offset=45 VSW=5

Linux modeline parameters:
"1232x696" 79.392 1232 1344 1472 1664 696 741 746 796 -hsync +vsync
---------------------------------------------------------------------



Mr.Pibb,

Just wanted to let you know that this is confirmed working on the new Mac Mini Intel's with their onboard Intel GPU.

Thanks!
Marc

What aspect ratio setting is everyone using? I'm a little confused as I've migrated from a Panasonic CRT RPTV and it had a 16:9 mode that was the right setting for 16:9 Enhanced movies.

The E50A10 doesn't have the same option. When I turn the aspect setting to "Auto" it has always defaulted to "Full" regardless of the signal it is receiving, but there are times this does not quite look right with a 16:9 image off the satellite. I'm connected using HDMI from a RXV2600 amp using the "Through" aspect setting in that. I'm controlling the aspect ratio off the sat using the STB, but DVD's are played using the standard DVDplayer 16:9 setup.

Looking forward to some answers as the Panasonic always looked right but new things always look different until you get used to them. Thx in advance :)

I will be purchasing the 42a10 within the next 6 days from Sears, BB, or CC using a price match. I need some advice on which retailer to choose and which extended warranty to buy. The warranty plans: Sears (3-yr=$399, 5-yr=$599), BB (4-yr=$399), and CC (2-yr=$219, 4-yr=$399). Apparently the Sears plan includes an annual preventive maintenance and performance check at no extra charge. Thanks in advance.
Kevin

Mr.Pibb,

Just wanted to let you know that this is confirmed working on the new Mac Mini Intel's with their onboard Intel GPU.

Thanks!
Marc

Great! Sounds like there are only a few people not getting these timings to work.

Agreed....I had the 42" for a couple of weeks and traded up to the 50". My seating is about 11-12 feet and this works well for the 50"....9 feet would be a little close, but I could live with it....but given the choice, and the fact you'll be getting a virtually identical but smaller set, I'd probably make the change. With the difference in price you could get the matching Sony stand if you don't have it.... :cool:

Too bad the new 46-inchers aren't out yet. :(

GWSMITH is exactly right on this one.

I have the 50" and sit about 10' away from it. If you ask me, the 50" is a little too big at 9' but the 42" is WAY too small at that distance.
The 46" would have been just perfect but I didn't want to wait any longer to purchase a TV.

So Halfrican..... If you can wait a little longer for the 46" to come out, I suggest you do so. If you need to purchase a TV now, go out a buy the 42". You'll be able to get a great deal on it because most shops are blowing out the old inventory to make room for the new models.

I will be purchasing the 42a10 within the next 6 days from Sears, BB, or CC using a price match. I need some advice on which retailer to choose and which extended warranty to buy. The warranty plans: Sears (3-yr=$399, 5-yr=$599), BB (4-yr=$399), and CC (2-yr=$219, 4-yr=$399). Apparently the Sears plan includes an annual preventive maintenance and performance check at no extra charge. Thanks in advance.
Kevin

Kevin,

Do a little reading here...This has been extensively discussed before.

Also, why are you not also considering the 4 year Sony warranty for $279?

Edit: Correction, the price has been lowered to $199.99 !

Great! Sounds like there are only a few people not getting these timings to work.

It seems to work pretty good.. there still some slight overscan (appears to only be vertical). I'm not a timings expert, but if I were to investigate dropping this down to say.. 1230x694 (from 1232x696), how would I go about finding the correct timings for this?

Thanks for your help Mr. Pibb.. really apprciate the time you've put into this thread.

Marc

I will be purchasing the 42a10 within the next 6 days from Sears, BB, or CC using a price match. I need some advice on which retailer to choose and which extended warranty to buy. The warranty plans: Sears (3-yr=$399, 5-yr=$599), BB (4-yr=$399), and CC (2-yr=$219, 4-yr=$399). Apparently the Sears plan includes an annual preventive maintenance and performance check at no extra charge. Thanks in advance.
KevinCheck out Sears return policy before you buy there....they told me 15% restocking fee even if I returned it in the box unopened. :(

You better know it's the one you'll keep if you buy from them. ;)

I know there was a question about getting the E42A10 at Target a few pages back. I was in one of the Buffalo locations this weekend and they had it on the shelf for $200 less than what it is listed for on BB or CC sites today. (I just checked Target's site and don't see it listed at all.) What a steal! I'm not sure of Target's return policy, but it might be good leverage to get BB or CC to price match.

I know there was a question about getting the E42A10 at Target a few pages back. I was in one of the Buffalo locations this weekend and they had it on the shelf for $200 less than what it is listed for on BB or CC sites today. (I just checked Target's site and don't see it listed at all.) What a steal! I'm not sure of Target's return policy, but it might be good leverage to get BB or CC to price match.

This is exactly what I am doing. Plus with 0% interest at BB for 12 months I don't have to rush to pay it off.

Check out Sears return policy before you buy there....they told me 15% restocking fee even if I returned it in the box unopened. :(

You better know it's the one you'll keep if you buy from them. ;)

I don't know what that that sales associate was smoking but if it is returned unopened then there is no restocking fee. I work at Sears in electronics and the restocking fee is only used if returned without defects out of box. For example the customer took a big screen home to watch the game with their buds and wanted to return it right before the 30 day return policy was up. That is why we have the 15% now due to people abusing the policy and we took the loss for it. Anything taken home and opened has to be discounted a lot. Also you might want to check into BB and CC they have an instance where there is a restocking fee too.

Also on the warranties I know that BB doesn’t cover cosmetics. I have a friend in my fraternity that bought a big screen there with the warranty and somebody scratched his screen (not to bad but noticeable) and they told him it wasn’t in the warranty. Sears does cover cosmetics up to 3 years with the PA. Go to each company and ask to see documentation on the warranties. Compare them to see what each will offer.

I have a 50a10 and just got a new MacBook Pro. I will be hooking it up to the TV to watch video and wondered how to get the correct setting. I am using the VGA port and going DVI->VGA. The mac will detect my "Sony Lcd Tv" and has a bunch of resolution options. On is the 1280x720. But when I set this res it gives me a widescreen picture but it does not fill the whole screen. How can I get it to fill the whole screen?

I have a 50a10 and just got a new MacBook Pro. I will be hooking it up to the TV to watch video and wondered how to get the correct setting. I am using the VGA port and going DVI->VGA. The mac will detect my "Sony Lcd Tv" and has a bunch of resolution options. On is the 1280x720. But when I set this res it gives me a widescreen picture but it does not fill the whole screen. How can I get it to fill the whole screen?

First, you'll need to get a program called DisplayConfigX and you'll need to register it to get it to apply a custom resolution. You can also try a program (free) called SwitchResX.. but I haven't tried it.

You'll need the custom timings from Mr. Pibb's post:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6990627#post6990627

I'm working on getting a full tutorial together for mac users for this tv.. I'll see if I can knock that out tonight and get it posted here.

Marc

Sweet thanks!
SwitchResX has a nag screen after 10 days.
Is there a completely freeware solution for this?

Sweet thanks!
SwitchResX has a nag screen after 10 days.
Is there a completely freeware solution for this?

I'm not sure.. but I'm leaning towards no. DisplayConfigX is probably the best choice....

Found this for you.. same procedure should work for your laptop.

http://tenant.com/mini.php

You can either use that guy's timings, or the one Mr. Pibb posted.

I know there was a question about getting the E42A10 at Target a few pages back. I was in one of the Buffalo locations this weekend and they had it on the shelf for $200 less than what it is listed for on BB or CC sites today. (I just checked Target's site and don't see it listed at all.) What a steal! I'm not sure of Target's return policy, but it might be good leverage to get BB or CC to price match.

Thanks for the Target tip. Sure enough, local Targets have this TV for $400 below MSRP with a 90 day return policy. Also, you can knock off an additional 10% if you sign up for one of their credit cards. Bottom line, I will be likely buying the 42a10 from Target.

Thanks for the Target tip. Sure enough, local Targets have this TV for $400 below MSRP with a 90 day return policy. Also, you can knock off an additional 10% if you sign up for one of their credit cards. Bottom line, I will be likely buying the 42a10 from Target.
Do you know if they're carrying the 50a10 as well?

I have the 50" and sit about 10' away from it. If you ask me, the 50" is a little too big at 9' but the 42" is WAY too small at that distance.
The 46" would have been just perfect but I didn't want to wait any longer to purchase a TV.
I'm in a similar boat as I sit either 9' or 13' from the set. 50 seems perfect at 13' and too big for 9' but the 42 looks great at 9' but too small for 13'. Argh!

A 46'er would be just right, I think, but I'm guessing the 46 price won't drop to an affordable level for me until they're out awhile. And that might not be until next year. My biggest concern is getting the 42 now and having buyer's remorse for not getting the bigger set.

I'm leaning towards the 50"...

I'm in a similar boat as I sit either 9' or 13' from the set. 50 seems perfect at 13' and too big for 9' but the 42 looks great at 9' but too small for 13'. Argh!

A 46'er would be just right, I think, but I'm guessing the 46 price won't drop to an affordable level for me until they're out awhile. And that might not be until next year. My biggest concern is getting the 42 now and having buyer's remorse for not getting the bigger set.

I'm leaning towards the 50"...IMO, there are practical issues other than just viewing distance to consider in choosing a screen size.

My room is roughly 16x17 with 10-foot ceiling....my TV, speakers and gear take up essentially one whole wall. We also have generously sized furniture, and when I had the 42" it looked somewhat dwarfed and out of scale with the rest of the room.....but still occupied virtually the same wall space. There's usually just the two of us and our seating is 11-13 feet so the 50" works out well in all respects.

OTOH, I know people with similar sized rooms that can't even acommodate a 42" TV, because of lack of available wall space, furniture arrangement, or unwillingness on the part of SWMBO. :D In my case SWMBO had no problem because the new TV sits in the same spot the old Sony crt occupied with its associated gear.

When in doubt, IMO, if you've got the space and are willing to let the TV have its share, go bigger....but don't overlook the impact the physical presence of a large screen in your space may have on your lifestyle. If I had issues with the space the TV ocupied I could live with a 42" or even smaller. After all, I watched a 27" for 16 years!;)

The 42" A10 works best if you're sitting at about 7 to 8 feet from it. You start to lose the immersion factor beyond 8 feet and it will feel more like staring at a TV. It's perfect for small living rooms or a bedroom.

Anyone here running a 360 on their 42A10?

When in doubt, IMO, if you've got the space and are willing to let the TV have its share, go bigger....but don't overlook the impact the physical presence of a large screen in your space may have on your lifestyle.
Good point. The fear that a 50" will overpower the room is part of my hesitation.

The 42" A10 works best if you're sitting at about 7 to 8 feet from it. You start to lose the immersion factor beyond 8 feet and it will feel more like staring at a TV.
As a movie buff, the immersion feel is exactly what I'm hoping for and I'm not convinced the 42" will give me that at 10+ft.

The 50 incher seemed huge at first to us. We view from around 9-10 feet away. It takes a while to get used to, but once you do, I wouldn't want anything smaller. Even the SD effect goes away, if you even see it in the first place. It seems to be a matter of focusing on the content rather than the effect. I watch a lot of hockey, and it bugged me at first. Now I never notice it, or do I have a problem with motion blur. Hockey and HD, priceless.

i have the e50a10 and sit about 9 feet away.
the first two weeks i had it, i thought wow... how HUGE!

then i started downloading episodes of LOST and PRISON BREAK in HD, and the TV seems tiny! at this distance of 9 feet, the correct TV size would be something like 80 inches.

my advice for all you guys that think your TV is too big....
when more HD programming becomes available, your TV will star to look tiny.
keep the big TV.. you'll thank me later.

The 50 incher seemed huge at first to us. We view from around 9-10 feet away. ... I watch a lot of hockey, and it bugged me at first. Now I never notice it, or do I have a problem with motion blur. Hockey and HD, priceless.
This is good to hear since once Fall comes, a lot of my TV viewing will be dedicated to football. NFL Ticket in HD... that's something to look forward to!

Thanks for the Target tip. Sure enough, local Targets have this TV for $400 below MSRP with a 90 day return policy. Also, you can knock off an additional 10% if you sign up for one of their credit cards. Bottom line, I will be likely buying the 42a10 from Target.

haven't seen 'em in Chicago yet .....

This is good to hear since once Fall comes, a lot of my TV viewing will be dedicated to football. NFL Ticket in HD... that's something to look forward to!

You'll all probably laugh at me (my wife did) but I printed out a lifesize template of both the 42" and 50" models (had to print them on multiple pages and then cut and paste together) so I could get a good feel for which one would work best for us. And although I still haven't bought one yet, I am leaning towards the 42". Plus the fact that when displaying a 4:3 image on a 16:9 screen, the image will be about 1" taller and 2" wider than my current 32" TV so it will still be bigger.

Here's a cool site (http://www.cavecreations.com/tv2.cgi) that lets you compare various screen sizes to see how much bigger they are. Very useful for comparing a 4:3 to a 16:9.

You'll all probably laugh at me (my wife did) but I printed out a lifesize template of both the 42" and 50" models (had to print them on multiple pages and then cut and paste together) so I could get a good feel for which one would work best for us.
I would laugh at you but I'm close to doing that myself.

I am leaning towards the 42". Plus the fact that when displaying a 4:3 image on a 16:9 screen, the image will be about 1" taller and 2" wider than my current 32" TV so it will still be bigger.
Do you think moving from a 32" to a 42" will be a significant change? That's one reason I'm considering the 50" as I'm not convinced going from a 27 to 42 will be a huge difference, at least from 13 foot viewing distance.

Here's a cool site (http://www.cavecreations.com/tv2.cgi) that lets you compare various screen sizes to see how much bigger they are. Very useful for comparing a 4:3 to a 16:9.
Thanks!

Just purchased the 50A10. I would like some help fine tuning the settings to eliminate the red push and create the best picture. please help or suggest. It may have already been discussed here but there are 254 pages to read through. A short cut would be great thanks.

You'll all probably laugh at me (my wife did) but I printed out a lifesize template of both the 42" and 50" models (had to print them on multiple pages and then cut and paste together) so I could get a good feel for which one would work best for us...
Wives/Girlfriends are notorious for laughing at us. However, once they realize the amount of money we spend on this stuff or how serious about it we are, in the end they're glad we go to the lengths we do to research and make an informed purchase decision. After all, they drop quite a bit on outfits/shoes with, I'd say, considerably less planning, and definitely more buyer's remorse. (Who's girl is actually satisfied with all of their clothing purchases once they take them home? Or still happy even a year or two later?) Disclaimer: Yes I'm stereotyping and not all women are like this. :)

Just purchased the 50A10. I would like some help fine tuning the settings to eliminate the red push and create the best picture. please help or suggest. It may have already been discussed here but there are 254 pages to read through. A short cut would be great thanks.

The 2 best things you can do to each input is lower color to between 38 and 41. Also bring sharpness down on each input to between 30 and 35. To see how to do the rest and how to set up each connected device look for a post or reply made by Dark Rain and click on his 42a10 Picture settings in his sig.

Do you think moving from a 32" to a 42" will be a significant change? That's one reason I'm considering the 50" as I'm not convinced going from a 27 to 42 will be a huge difference, at least from 13 foot viewing distance.

From a 13' distance, I would seriously consider the 50". My distance is more like 8' - 9', so that's why I'm leaning towards the 42". Plus my template of the 50" just seemed HUGE in my room. The 50" looks small in the stores, but putting the template in my room really brought its size into perspective.

The 46" would be a happy compromise for me, but it's not due out until summer and it will probably be this time next year before it's price is close to what the 42" can be bought for now.

Do you think moving from a 32" to a 42" will be a significant change? That's one reason I'm considering the 50" as I'm not convinced going from a 27 to 42 will be a huge difference, at least from 13 foot viewing distance.Look at the table that Indiana627 posted....if I read it correctly, a 42" 16:9 screen is the equivalent of something just over 34" diagonally when viewed with SD 4:3 content. A 50" 16:9 screen is equivalent to something like 41" diagonally with 4:3 content.

Any questions? :D

From a 13' distance, I would seriously consider the 50". My distance is more like 8' - 9', so that's why I'm leaning towards the 42". Plus my template of the 50" just seemed HUGE in my room. The 50" looks small in the stores, but putting the template in my room really brought its size into perspective.

The 46" would be a happy compromise for me, but it's not due out until summer and it will probably be this time next year before it's price is close to what the 42" can be bought for now.

You're right, the 50" looks small in the showroom. We just brought one, got it home, and it looks huge in our lounge - to the degree we are seriously considering exchanging it for a 42". Also, the qulaity of some sat channels has a lot to be desired and the 50" seems to make the jaggies?? more pronounced - although I did read here someone didn't see them after a while. I doubt we'll see any broadcast HD in NZ for at least 5 years to help with this problem, and it sounds like not all HD channels are created equal anyway :(

I'm looking at making some adjustments to our new E50A10 and was wondering if the settings mentioned in this thread are different for PAL Vs NTSC?

how important is the coaxial connection on a surge protector? I found an APC surge protector/UPS combo at walmart in store for $30. I just bought an APC surge only unit that has coax, ethernet, and phone protection, and was going to have to purchase a UPS in addition. Are those extra protectors necessary? If not I'd like to go with the surge/UPS combo unit (it has phone, but no ethernet or coax protection).

TIA :D

how important is the coaxial connection on a surge protector? I found an APC surge protector/UPS combo at walmart in store for $30. I just bought an APC surge only unit that has coax, ethernet, and phone protection, and was going to have to purchase a UPS in addition. Are those extra protectors necessary? If not I'd like to go with the surge/UPS combo unit (it has phone, but no ethernet or coax protection).

TIA :D


Phone and coax are pretty much a waste of time in terms of surge protecting. The ethernet works well if you're going to have a computer also hooked up to it (some surge/UPS protectors have a program on your computer that can manage the settings for the surge/UPS device. This requres the ethernet port to be connected to a USB port on the computer).

Anyone here running a 360 on their 42A10?

Yes and it is jaw dropping.

Fight Night Round 3 is e-pene material for real....

Look at the table that Indiana627 posted....if I read it correctly, a 42" 16:9 screen is the equivalent of something just over 34" diagonally when viewed with SD 4:3 content. A 50" 16:9 screen is equivalent to something like 41" diagonally with 4:3 content.

Any questions? :D

Some DVD players and cable boxes will expand the image another inch or two when viewing 4:3 content in OAR. My Motorola 6412 actually gives me a 35"-36" 4:3 image. My new Oppo DVD player does the same.

Look at the table that Indiana627 posted....if I read it correctly, a 42" 16:9 screen is the equivalent of something just over 34" diagonally when viewed with SD 4:3 content. A 50" 16:9 screen is equivalent to something like 41" diagonally with 4:3 content.

Any questions? :D

No questions, but certainly some comments.

Since much of the TV I'll be watching will be digital and non-HD, it might make sense to go big because I'll only be technically watching a 41" screen when watching digital cable. On the other hand, when will all channels be HD? I don't think even all channels are digital yet?

Indiana627.....it probably would have made more sense to either a.) use painters tape on your wall to map out the size b.) use tape on a piece of cardboard. I would never have spent the time, paper, glue on the project you did hehe :p

Phone and coax are pretty much a waste of time in terms of surge protecting. The ethernet works well if you're going to have a computer also hooked up to it (some surge/UPS protectors have a program on your computer that can manage the settings for the surge/UPS device. This requres the ethernet port to be connected to a USB port on the computer).

any other opinions? I'm setting up the tv tonight. as for now I'll start with the ups/surge combo only, keeping the other box closed - if anyone else agrees with rifleman then I'll RMA it and ship it back to newegg. Basically $35 for coax and ethernet protection...

on second thought i do plan to do online gaming. can a cat5 cable really pass a charge? I've never heard of an ethernet surge. Maybe just a whimper when I'm using azureus :p .

how important is the coaxial connection on a surge protector? I found an APC surge protector/UPS combo at walmart in store for $30. I just bought an APC surge only unit that has coax, ethernet, and phone protection, and was going to have to purchase a UPS in addition. Are those extra protectors necessary? If not I'd like to go with the surge/UPS combo unit (it has phone, but no ethernet or coax protection).

TIA

Phone and coax are pretty much a waste of time in terms of surge protecting. The ethernet works well if you're going to have a computer also hooked up to it (some surge/UPS protectors have a program on your computer that can manage the settings for the surge/UPS device. This requres the ethernet port to be connected to a USB port on the computer).

Actually the phone line is the most likely to take a hit if you have a near by lightning strike. Years ago the phone line protection on one of my surge protectors gave its life to save my computer. Other items connected to the phone line that weren't connected to a surge protector were damaged/destroyed in my house. I would suspect that coax can potentially be dangerous too, but mainly if it isn't grounded properly. I would go with the coax/phone line protection. Of course, your TV doesn't have a phone connection, so unless you are using the surge protector for a computer or TiVo or something like that phone line protection is unnecessary. I can't imagine why you would need ethernet protection unless for some strange reason your network line runs outside! :D

<snip>can a cat5 cable really pass a charge? I've never heard of an ethernet surge. Maybe just a whimper when I'm using azureus :p .Don't know about "ethernet surge" but I lost a brand new motherboard last summer on a pc that was unplugged from power but left connected to a cat5 network cable. A stroke of lightning hit a couple hundred feet from the house during a storm and when we powered up the pc it showed no onboard ethernet adapter present. I did everything I could to get it to work, but was not able to revive it. It worked fine before the storm.

The cat5 runs from a router through the attic along an outside wall, to a room across the house where the pc was located. My guess is the static electricity generated by the lightning followed the cat5 to the mb.

still getting mixed replies. let's just consider the tv. I will have the ps2 connected online occaisionally, so I might use the ethernet for that. the more i think the more I shouldn't be a cheapskate (although being a cheapskate is easier to afford) and use both the nice surge and the surge/ups combo...

No questions, but certainly some comments.

Since much of the TV I'll be watching will be digital and non-HD, it might make sense to go big because I'll only be technically watching a 41" screen when watching digital cable. On the other hand, when will all channels be HD? I don't think even all channels are digital yet?My point exactly....it doesn't make sense to "upgrade" to a 42" display and effectively gain only 2" screen size if you're going to view at 4:3 aspect ratio.

My understanding is that in the U.S. there will be no more analog broadcasts after 03/01/09, but somebody correct me if that's changed....Congress is always messing with the date. My guess is that most if not all stations will be HD sometime before that date.

Right now many stations simulcast OTA in analog and digital, as well as HD. Digital/HD broadcasts are available through cable and satellite companies but I don't know about that since I don't subscribe to digital service. Most of my viewing is HD, and it's free OTA. If it weren't for a few cable channels I can't get OTA (History Channel, Discovery and a couple more) I wouldn't have it at all.

Come to think of it, I can't really understand why anyone would want a large screen RPTV to watch 4:3 channels, digital or analog....any chance you could get OTA channels? It's free and much better PQ than cable or satellite. ;)

still getting mixed replies. let's just consider the tv. I will have the ps2 connected online occaisionally, so I might use the ethernet for that. the more i think the more I shouldn't be a cheapskate (although being a cheapskate is easier to afford) and use both the nice surge and the surge/ups combo...

IMHO you seem very worried about this. That being the case, I think you'll set your mind at ease if you just go buy the protection.


My understanding is that in the U.S. there will be no more analog broadcasts after 03/01/09, but somebody correct me if that's changed....Congress is always messing with the date. My guess is that most if not all stations will be HD sometime before that date.

That's what a man at an electronics store told me. Although he wasn't very technology savvy IMO. I thought all channels needed to be digital (4:3) by 2009, but NOT HD?


Right now many stations simulcast OTA in analog and digital, as well as HD. Digital/HD broadcasts are available through cable and satellite companies but I don't know about that since I don't subscribe to digital service. Most of my viewing is HD, and it's free OTA. If it weren't for a few cable channels I can't get OTA (History Channel, Discovery and a couple more) I wouldn't have it at all.

Many channels I like are not OTA that I'm aware of. I like History, Military, Discovery Times channels.


Come to think of it, I can't really understand why anyone would want a large screen RPTV to watch 4:3 channels, digital or analog....any chance you could get OTA channels? It's free and much better PQ than cable or satellite. ;)

Guilty as charged :cool: I haven't had the time to look at those charts and figure out what it all means.

IMHO you seem very worried about this. That being the case, I think you'll set your mind at ease if you just go buy the protection.
Already purchased, was just at the threshold of opening the box and it was/is decision time. If I seem worried, it's a mix of excitement over the new tv and not wanting to let that lead me to make stupid decisions. :D I'll be using both :D Thanks all!! I'll post pics once it's all set up...

That's what a man at an electronics store told me. Although he wasn't very technology savvy IMO. I thought all channels needed to be digital (4:3) by 2009, but NOT HD?That's right....DTV. But with the number of stations broadcasting HDTV right now, three years before the cut-off date, and all the 16:9 TV's going out the doors, and with manufacture of 4:3 picture tubes phasing out, I'd be surprised to see many non-HD broadcasts by that time. Who's gonna wanna watch them?

No questions, but certainly some comments.

Since much of the TV I'll be watching will be digital and non-HD, it might make sense to go big because I'll only be technically watching a 41" screen when watching digital cable. On the other hand, when will all channels be HD? I don't think even all channels are digital yet?

Indiana627.....it probably would have made more sense to either a.) use painters tape on your wall to map out the size b.) use tape on a piece of cardboard. I would never have spent the time, paper, glue on the project you did hehe :p


I'm sure the purest will have a stroke when I say this, I watch non-Hd on wide zoom and love it.

I sure the purest will have a stroke when I say this, I watch non-Hd on wide zoom and love it.

I do the same. 4:3 content stretched on the A10 doesn't look bad at all. People only look a bit squatty near the sides of the screen.

I do the same. 4:3 content stretched on the A10 doesn't look bad at all. People only look a bit squatty near the sides of the screen.


I would say I am picky when it comes to my video. But I watch all my non-hd in the "Full" mode where it is uniformly scretched. It really doesn't bother me and I like using the whole TV. I have gotten used to it so much when I watch non-streched stuff (HD and movies) the actors look skinny to me.

Ahhh...I like the sound of that. Good to hear the strectched mode doesn't look too bad. Maybe I'll play around with it some at BB. If it doesn't look good, I might go for the 50".

I'm waiting for BB in my area to offer 24 months no financing/interest.

I've gotten used to the stretch mode on my 65" RPCRT (to avoid burn in), but one of the reasons I bought the A10 was that I wouldn't have to stretch. I'd much rather have the proper aspect ratio with the black bars than a stretched picture just so that it could fill my screen. Fortunately, the increasing availability of HD is making this less important!

I will give another opinion on streching: I can't stand it. I run 4:3 as 4:3. The bars on the side do not bother me.

I don't like to see movies chopped from widescreen to 4:3 either, so I guess I am saying that I like to see stuff in the original format.

The worse offender is TNTHD, which stretches all of the 4:3 programming, whether you like it or not.

I will give another opinion on streching: I can't stand it. I run 4:3 as 4:3. The bars on the side do not bother me.

I don't like to see movies chopped from widescreen to 4:3 either, so I guess I am saying that I like to see stuff in the original format.You and me both!! :eek: The day I have to watch stretched 4:3 is the day I'll start watching my old 27" crt again!

From a 13' distance, I would seriously consider the 50". My distance is more like 8' - 9', so that's why I'm leaning towards the 42". Plus my template of the 50" just seemed HUGE in my room. The 50" looks small in the stores, but putting the template in my room really brought its size into perspective.

The 46" would be a happy compromise for me, but it's not due out until summer and it will probably be this time next year before it's price is close to what the 42" can be bought for now.
________________________________________________

Indiana627, I'll throw my 2 cents in here as well. I just purchased the 42A10 on Monday evening (I am replacing a 31" CRT that died). My wife walked into the family room where I had it on the floor, unboxed and she exclaimed "that thing is huge!". Unfortunately she wasn't talking about me. ;o( And after placing it into the cabinet it was substantually larger than it appeared in the store. Like you, I was concerned that the 42's in the store look down right tiny compared to the 50's, 60's and larger. But at home it's a different story. I am completely happy with the 42... viewing distance anywhere between 8' and 13'. In reality, the 42 provides a much, much larger picture than my old 31" CRT. For my room I now know the 50" would be too much. But hey, to each their own...

Also, I was trying to strike a balance knowing that I would be viewing analog, digital & HD broadcasts for a minimum of 3 more years. If you plan on viewing a lot of analog, keep in mind the larger screen will not have quite as good PQ due solely to the larger size for the next few years.

Lastly, when my set was scanning for channels (I'm on analog cable) the 42A10 found my usual 80 analog stations in addition to 93 digital stations. I now have the locals in HDTV also! I was going to flip for the extra $20/mo. Adelphia (in So. CA) charges for digital, but now I don't see the need. I'm happy with the PQ on all feeds and I haven't yet begun to tweak. It can only get better. Good luck on your decision.

<snip>If you plan on viewing a lot of analog, keep in mind the larger screen will not have quite as good PQ due solely to the larger size for the next few years.<snip>I went from a 42" to the 50" and didn't find this to be true, although I originally feared it would be so....if anything we like the SD PQ on the 50" a little better than the 42", but I have to admit we don't watch a lot of SD. YMMV....;)

<snip>Lastly, when my set was scanning for channels (I'm on analog cable) the 42A10 found my usual 80 analog stations in addition to 93 digital stations. I now have the locals in HDTV also! I was going to flip for the extra $20/mo. Adelphia (in So. CA) charges for digital, but now I don't see the need. I'm happy with the PQ on all feeds and I haven't yet begun to tweak. It can only get better. Good luck on your decision.If you really want to see true HD, uncompressed and pure, stick a rabbit ear on your set and try OTA HDTV....IMO cable doesn't compare. :cool:

Does running something like Powerstrip to obtain 1:1 pixel mapping when hooking up a computer affect the video card or computer in any way?

If you really want to see true HD, uncompressed and pure, stick a rabbit ear on your set and try OTA HDTV....IMO cable doesn't compare. :cool:

gwsmith, is there an inexpensive indoor antenna you could recommend? I'm about 75 miles from most of the transmission towers and wouldn't expect to get many channels, although I have pretty fair visibility in that direction. I'd like to make the attempt but don't want to spend a fortune only to be disappointed. On the other hand... is an inexpensive antenna as likely to bring in signal strength as a higher priced (presumably better) antenna? TIA.

Well, my 42A10 has developed the dreaded color blotch. It didn't show up until about six months after I bought it. It's about a 2-inch circle smack damb in the middle of the screen, but it's more yellowish and not blue. It's really only visible when changing the channel or in dark scenes. Time to call sony.

Well, my 42A10 has developed the dreaded color blotch. It didn't show up until about six months after I bought it. It's about a 2-inch circle smack damb in the middle of the screen, but it's more yellowish and not blue. It's really only visible when changing the channel or in dark scenes. Time to call sony.

Sony should put a more complete air filtering system in these TVs

gwsmith, is there an inexpensive indoor antenna you could recommend? I'm about 75 miles from most of the transmission towers and wouldn't expect to get many channels, although I have pretty fair visibility in that direction. I'd like to make the attempt but don't want to spend a fortune only to be disappointed. On the other hand... is an inexpensive antenna as likely to bring in signal strength as a higher priced (presumably better) antenna? TIA.Sorry, I don't think you'll be able to get a strong enough signal from 75 miles with any indoor antenna I know of :( but if you look at the antennaweb.org site it'll help you decide....I guess I'm spoiled since I have several major network towers within 10 miles. I use a very compact $69 outdoor antenna mounted in my attic that's supposed to have 55 mile range (mounted outside).

My experience is that the indoor antennas are generally more expensive than outdoor ones and don't do the job as well. I originally had an $100 indoor antenna and got satisfactory reception, but I went with the attic antenna mainly for aesthetics, and benefitted with even better signal strength.

I'm sure there's a thread somewhere in this forum that discusses antennas in great detail and I would encourage you to search it out. Also, if you call the tech service at antennasdirect.com they can tell you if an antenna is available that meets your needs.

[...] but if you look at the antennaweb.org site it'll help you decide....I guess I'm spoiled since I have several major network towers within 10 miles. I use a very compact $69 outdoor antenna mounted in my attic that's supposed to have 55 mile range (mounted outside). [...]


Maybe you can help me real quick gDUB haha...

I did the antennaweb site and came up with yellow/red/blue - uhf (some - vhf). All of them are within 15-25 miles, is that good? What does it all mean? Most of the networks I got in the query are FOX, CBS, PBS, ABC, UPN, WB, and NBC.

Does running something like Powerstrip to obtain 1:1 pixel mapping when hooking up a computer affect the video card or computer in any way?

It doesn't hurt it, if that's what you are asking. It just defines video timings that aren't "standard" according to the video card makers.

My wife and I purchased the E50A10 back in November. It has been a great tv up to now. Recently I started noticing horizontal bands of discolorization during HD broadcasts. Here's how I have my setup: I have my Scientific Atlantic 8300 HD DVR hooked up by component cables to my Yamaha HTR-5990 receiver. I have all components connected to my tv(from the receiver) via HDMI. I tried connecting the cable box to the receiver through HDMI but I could not pass video through to the tv due to copy protection. Should I just settle for connecting directly to the tv from the cable box?

Originally Posted by gsmayes

Well, my 42A10 has developed the dreaded color blotch. It didn't show up until about six months after I bought it. It's about a 2-inch circle smack damb in the middle of the screen, but it's more yellowish and not blue. It's really only visible when changing the channel or in dark scenes. Time to call sony.


Is this dirt on the mirrors? Can It be cleaned? The reason I ask is because my tv is in a room that has a fireplace and some of my family smokes. I have only had the tv for 3 months but I am sure it will need cleaned in a years time.

I bought the 50A10 today. I have mixed feelings about the set. Out of the box it was horrible. I was able to tweak it enought to look good. DVD's and High Def. Look great. One problem I am having is I get a thin 1/4 inch black bar sometimes on the right side of the TV frame, verticle right along the frame. It comes and goes. Sometimes its about 2 inches but only for a split second. It happened during a quick scene change. No idea whats going on here but it doesn't sound good.

Ripper64,

Is the black bar phenomenon only during DVD or is it with all programming? If its only with DVD, look into the DVD setup menu and see if there is a horizontal shift setting.

Originally Posted by gsmayes

Well, my 42A10 has developed the dreaded color blotch. It didn't show up until about six months after I bought it. It's about a 2-inch circle smack damb in the middle of the screen, but it's more yellowish and not blue. It's really only visible when changing the channel or in dark scenes. Time to call sony.


Is this dirt on the mirrors? Can It be cleaned? The reason I ask is because my tv is in a room that has a fireplace and some of my family smokes. I have only had the tv for 3 months but I am sure it will need cleaned in a years time.

I believe the back of the A10 comes off rather easy. It looks like the upper shell where the projection mirror is attached comes off separately from the bottom half for easy cleaning.

The color blotches are usually associated with the light engine. I'd call Sony ASAP and have them send a tech out to look at it.

Originally Posted by gsmayes

Well, my 42A10 has developed the dreaded color blotch. It didn't show up until about six months after I bought it. It's about a 2-inch circle smack damb in the middle of the screen, but it's more yellowish and not blue. It's really only visible when changing the channel or in dark scenes. Time to call sony.


Is this dirt on the mirrors? Can It be cleaned? The reason I ask is because my tv is in a room that has a fireplace and some of my family smokes. I have only had the tv for 3 months but I am sure it will need cleaned in a years time.

When I searched this thread to see if it was a common problem, I learned it has something to do with polarized light and the color blotch is an inherent design flaw in an LCDRP TV’s use of it. I guess DLPs don’t have this problem. I’m not exactly sure what causes it or how to fix it, all I know is that it shouldn’t be there. I’m sure Sony will fix it this time; I’m just worried that six months from now it will pop up again and my TV will be out of warrantee. I’m definitely feeling some buyer’s remorse right now.

Ripper64,

Is the black bar phenomenon only during DVD or is it with all programming? If its only with DVD, look into the DVD setup menu and see if there is a horizontal shift setting.



It happens on video 1 running dish network satellite. There is a very faint line that is always present there on the right hand frame. Its more noticeable under certain colors and other colors you can't see it. I noticed an image shift in the menu but that is for double images or something like that. If the image is off its very slight checking with test patterns. Viewing DVD's is fine or high Def. material.

[QUOTE=gwsmith]Sorry, I don't think you'll be able to get a strong enough signal from 75 miles with any indoor antenna I know of :( but if you look at the antennaweb.org site it'll help you decide....I guess I'm spoiled since I have several major network towers within 10 miles. I use a very compact $69 outdoor antenna mounted in my attic that's supposed to have 55 mile range (mounted outside).
_______________________________________-

Thanks for your input. It looks like I will be sticking with the cable feed. And that's not a bad thing since I'm happy with the PQ as is. Thanks again.

I need help. I hooked up an old Pentium 3 laptop to my 42a10 by vga and while i can see the desktop fine and browse the internet, when i try to watch video files with windows media player or vlc player, the video will not show up on my tv. I can see the video on the laptop screen, but the "video box" on the tv is blank (i can see everything but the video, including the menu bars and the mouse pointer.) It's like the video is on a separate layer that is not being transmitted to the tv. How can i fix this?

Jagernaut

I had a similar problem on my dual monitor computer system. Video would only show on the screen that was designated as the primary. But this was on Windows 98SE. When I redid the system with Windows XP, I was able to put the video whereever I wanted to.

Which operating system are you on?

It's a Fujitsu P3 1 gig laptop running Windows XP at 1024 x 768. Do you think it could be a videocard issue (Rage mobility) or is there something i'm overlooking in the system options? I want to mirror the laptop display to the tv so everything including the video is shown on both screens.

edit. i also forgot to mention that i pin from each end of the male to male vga cable (not the same pin on both sides) seems to be missing, i only count 14 pins not 15.

It seems these units need the occasional cleaning.

Questions:

1. I don't believe I've seen this mentioned in the Users Manual.

2. Assuming it is needed, is this done by a proffesional, or can the owner do it.

3. If the owner can do it, what gets cleaned, and what cleaning agents are recommended? Is there a website that runs through the basics?

This seems like it would be a hassle, and most likely open the door for something to go wrong.

Do you know if they're carrying the 50a10 as well?

Pulled the trigger today on the 42a10 at Target. They have a great price made even better with the additional 10% off with a credit card application. Target also has a 90-day return policy on TVs with no restocking fee. Target only carries the 42a10, not the 50a10. For the 50a10, I would take a look at Sam's Club which carries this TV at an attractice price which includes the stand. Of course like Costco, they have an open-ended return policy which is a comforting feature for big ticket purchases.

It's a Fujitsu P3 1 gig laptop running Windows XP at 1024 x 768. Do you think it could be a videocard issue (Rage mobility) or is there something i'm overlooking in the system options? I want to mirror the laptop display to the tv so everything including the video is shown on both screens.

edit. i also forgot to mention that i pin from each end of the male to male vga cable (not the same pin on both sides) seems to be missing, i only count 14 pins not 15.

There are different video modes, and apparently it is using the older "overlay" mode. Overlay only shows on the primary monitor. To get it to use "VMR" mode open windows media player, go to tools: options, go to the performance tab, choose the advanced button on the bottom, make sure "use video mixing rederer" is checked for both video acceleration and dvd video. I don't think it matters if "overlay" is checked here, but if it is and it still doesn't work, try unchecking that box.

There are different video modes, and apparently it is using the older "overlay" mode. Overlay only shows on the primary monitor. To get it to use "VMR" mode open windows media player, go to tools: options, go to the performance tab, choose the advanced button on the bottom, make sure "use video mixing rederer" is checked for both video acceleration and dvd video. I don't think it matters if "overlay" is checked here, but if it is and it still doesn't work, try unchecking that box.

Thanks a lot! Unchecking the overlay box did the trick. Everything is working great now. I do have another question though. I may buy a new laptop in a few months, and i'm wondering if the tv will accept any resolutions higher than 1024 x 768. Will the tv accept WXGA (1280 x 800) or WSXGA resolutions?

Yeah, the 50 is at Sam's Club with the stand for $2299. I've seen the 42 at my local Target. I'm wondering if I can get BB, CC or Sears to beat Target's $1599 price even though it's not advertised.

Pulled the trigger today on the 42a10 at Target. They have a great price made even better with the additional 10% off with a credit card application. Target also has a 90-day return policy on TVs with no restocking fee. Target only carries the 42a10, not the 50a10. For the 50a10, I would take a look at Sam's Club which carries this TV at an attractice price which includes the stand. Of course like Costco, they have an open-ended return policy which is a comforting feature for big ticket purchases.

Thanks a lot! Unchecking the overlay box did the trick. Everything is working great now. I do have another question though. I may buy a new laptop in a few months, and i'm wondering if the tv will accept any resolutions higher than 1024 x 768. Will the tv accept WXGA (1280 x 800) or WSXGA resolutions?

Yes, the TV will accept other resolutions. If you want the best picture, however, install Powerstrip and use the timings listed in my signature below. I know it natively accepts 1280x768 (isn't that WXGA?). The best picture with little/no overscan will be slightly smaller than that.

I've seen the 42 at my local Target. I'm wondering if I can get BB, CC or Sears to beat Target's $1599 price even though it's not advertised.
The local HH Gregg has the 42 for $1619, which I think is their regular price, not a sale price.

It seems these units need the occasional cleaning.

Questions:

1. I don't believe I've seen this mentioned in the Users Manual.

2. Assuming it is needed, is this done by a proffesional, or can the owner do it.

3. If the owner can do it, what gets cleaned, and what cleaning agents are recommended? Is there a website that runs through the basics?

This seems like it would be a hassle, and most likely open the door for something to go wrong.


I found this quote on the HDTVprimer

How often does the mirror in my RPTV need cleaned?

This varies a lot. If a lot of cooking occurs in the house, once per year is typical. Fireplace usage can make cleaning necessary in only a couple months. But the set might go for many years if there is electrostatic air cleaning and no smoke sources.

In Atlanta last weekend, both Fry's and Circuit City had this tv for $1,399. The weekend before Brandsmart and BestBuy also had the same price. I pricematched at Circuit City then to get it for $1,370 plus tax. They may still have the same prices on this tv.

I found this quote on the HDTVprimer

How often does the mirror in my RPTV need cleaned?

This varies a lot. If a lot of cooking occurs in the house, once per year is typical. Fireplace usage can make cleaning necessary in only a couple months. But the set might go for many years if there is electrostatic air cleaning and no smoke sources.

Thanks LP, I saw that too. It still doesn't go deep enough for me. Pro job, or DYI?

In Atlanta last weekend, both Fry's and Circuit City had this tv for $1,399. The weekend before Brandsmart and BestBuy also had the same price. I pricematched at Circuit City then to get it for $1,370 plus tax. They may still have the same prices on this tv.

$1,400!!! I just bought it at Circuit City for $1,575 ($1,799 - 10% coupon).. Man, I wish I would have checked at BB B&M..

I have a question that I couldn't find in the manual..

Is it possible to bring up the guide, scroll through the channels to read what's on, but not have it go to that channel automatically?

For example.. I'm on channel 21, I press guide to see the description, I press down because I want to see the description of what is on 27 and it actually goes to that channel.

Also, any way to increase the time it takes to switch channels? Thanks!

I have the KDF-E42A10.

$1,400!!! I just bought it at Circuit City for $1,575 ($1,799 - 10% coupon).. Man, I wish I would have checked at BB B&M..

Trust me, CC, BB, and Sears have a strong dislike for Brandsmart in Atlanta and Florida since they are obligated to price match in the Brandsmart markets. Just for giggles, just check out the return policy for large screen TVs at Brandsmart. The best deal I could get in a non-Brandsmart area like mine was $1599 at Target minus 10% for a Target Visa application, which gave me a total of $1440 + tax. Oh by the way, after buying the 42a10 yesterday at Target, I have found this TV to have an excellent picture with DVDs, and satisfactory picture for standard DISH network channels, i.e., just as good as my 27" CRT. For my viewing distance of 7-11 feet, the 42a10 is an excellent TV so far.

Yeah, the 50 is at Sam's Club with the stand for $2299. I've seen the 42 at my local Target. I'm wondering if I can get BB, CC or Sears to beat Target's $1599 price even though it's not advertised.

Not a problem. Just tell them what Target is charging and give them a local Target phone number to verify. I debated price matching elsewhere, but I really wanted the lowest price which I was able to achieve with the 10% additional discount for opening a Target Visa card. I also liked the 90 day return policy with no restocking fee. However, unlike the other retailers, Target offers no extended warranty service and no 12- or 18-month same-as-cash financing program. Hope this helps.

If anyone has time to answer a "stupid question" here goes.....

I am looking to replace my wife's CRT TV... the largest TV I can fit into her entertainment center cannot be more than 40" wide and 31" tall. The EC is huge (over 10' wide with all the pieces) and I do not want to replace it at this juncture.

So far I have found the Sony KDFE 42A10 and the Samsung HL-R4266W will meet these requirements. There are a couple of other TV's that will also, but they are about double the price of these units.

I know most all of you guys have the Sony... or you would not be hanging about this thread..., but I was wondering if any of you had seen the Samsung DLP unit or had read any comparisons anywhere.... I have not found any direct info here on AVS.

Thanks for anyone who can or will answer my silly questions................ :-)

Yes, the TV will accept other resolutions. If you want the best picture, however, install Powerstrip and use the timings listed in my signature below. I know it natively accepts 1280x768 (isn't that WXGA?). The best picture with little/no overscan will be slightly smaller than that.

Do you know if those settings would be the same with the 42"?

Do you know if those settings would be the same with the 42"?

From what I've heard it works exactly the same for the 42".

If anyone has time to answer a "stupid question" here goes.....

I am looking to replace my wife's CRT TV... the largest TV I can fit into her entertainment center cannot be more than 40" wide and 31" tall. The EC is huge (over 10' wide with all the pieces) and I do not want to replace it at this juncture.

So far I have found the Sony KDFE 42A10 and the Samsung HL-R4266W will meet these requirements. There are a couple of other TV's that will also, but they are about double the price of these units.

I know most all of you guys have the Sony... or you would not be hanging about this thread..., but I was wondering if any of you had seen the Samsung DLP unit or had read any comparisons anywhere.... I have not found any direct info here on AVS.

Thanks for anyone who can or will answer my silly questions................ :-)

I just asked this a few pages back. I think if you actually go look at the TV's you'll find the sony to be MUCH superior. The Samsung viewing angles suck compared to the sonys

Second set in 2 days! My original 50A10 I bought back in Nov. developed several dead pixels and a slight greenish tint in one area of the screen, July '05 build. I took it back to Costco and got my money as they didn't have any more. I went to CC and they came down to $2020 and I said, it's a deal. I brought it home last night and it had a huge bright purple spot about 8" x 10" near the lower edge of the screen near the center on every input and channel, Sept. '05 build. I took it back this morning and got another one, Dec. '05 build. I got all my settings set in the Custom settings like I wanted, as I couldn't see anything wrong with it, and then I went on to my DVD inputs, which are component connections from a Pioneer progressive-scan DVD player. First thing we noticed was a horizontal line in the top and bottom of the picture about 1/8" - 1/4" above and below the top and bottom extremes with 2:35 ratio DVD's. Not only is there a faint line but the picture is slightly brighter above and below that line. Has anyone ever experienced anything like this? You don't see it with 1:85's or any DVD's that fill the screen. I don't remember ever seeing this with my original set. I also hooked up a cheap Apex to the side RCA jacks and got the same effect with 2 different DVD's. I'm very disgusted with this and really hate to take back another one. Should I return another or try to ignore that it's there and live with it.
Grateful11

Click on Thumbnails

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v180/GratefulToo/th_ed96bf59.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v180/GratefulToo/ed96bf59.jpg)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v180/GratefulToo/th_5c556485.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v180/GratefulToo/5c556485.jpg)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v180/GratefulToo/th_4e6ee0c4.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v180/GratefulToo/4e6ee0c4.jpg)

I got all my settings set in the Custom settings like I wanted, as I couldn't see anything wrong with it, and then I went on to my DVD inputs, which are component connections from a Pioneer progressive-scan DVD player. First thing we noticed was a horizontal line in the top and bottom of the picture about 1/8" - 1/4" above and below the top and bottom extremes with 2:35 ratio DVD's. Not only is there a faint line but the picture is slightly brighter above and below that line. Has anyone ever experienced anything like this? You don't see it with 1:85's or any DVD's that fill the screen. I don't remember ever seeing this with my original set. I also hooked up a cheap Apex to the side RCA jacks and got the same effect with 2 different DVD's. I'm very disgusted with this and really hate to take back another one. Should I return another or try to ignore that it's there and live with it.
Grateful11

Click on Thumbnails

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v180/GratefulToo/th_ed96bf59.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v180/GratefulToo/ed96bf59.jpg)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v180/GratefulToo/th_5c556485.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v180/GratefulToo/5c556485.jpg)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v180/GratefulToo/th_4e6ee0c4.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v180/GratefulToo/4e6ee0c4.jpg)

I had that issue with my Sony DVD player hooked up to component input (Video 5). I was thinking it was edge enhancement that was causing this, but I now think it was either the DVD player or the component input. Poor Y/C delay on the DVD player could be the cause this. With my Sony I noticed some slight ghosting around text and objects. EE will also cause this effect, so it's really hard to tell. The A10 may be at fault by adding some additional filtering on 480i or 480p sources.

I recently bought an Oppo 971H upconverting DVD player which is hooked up via HDMI and the problem with the horizontal lines is gone. The edges on anamorphic 2.35:1 DVDs are clean and sharp.

I'd say try a different DVD player.

I had that issue with my Sony DVD player hooked up to component input (Video 5). I was thinking it was edge enhancement that was causing this, but I now think it was either the DVD player or the component input. Poor Y/C delay on the DVD player could be the cause this. With my Sony I noticed some slight ghosting around text and objects. EE will also cause this effect, so it's really hard to tell. The A10 may be at fault by adding some additional filtering on 480i or 480p sources.

I recently bought an Oppo 971H upconverting DVD player which is hooked up via HDMI and the problem with the horizontal lines is gone. The edges on anamorphic 2.35:1 DVDs are clean and sharp.

I'd say try a different DVD player.

I took the set back with the intentions of getting another. The manager wanted to see what it was doing and they saw it too. Then he said try on some of the other sets and low and behold they all did it. The SXRD which had a DVD player connected via HDMI did it. The other A10's all did it. Even the 60" inch Hitachi and even a 50" Plasma did it. We messed around for about 2 hours, even hooked up a Samsung DVD player with HDMI to the set I brought back and it did it. Some of those guys have been there for 3 years since they opened and said they had never noticed. One said now that he's seen it he'll probably not be able to get his mind off of it. One woman was still messing with it when we left. She was fussing at one guy for not hooking up a Sony to it, I told her to call me if she figured anything out.
Thanks

The thing I can't understand is that we had the original set for 6 months and we never noticed it, not once. Same connections, same DVD player, same settings that I got from your suggestions over at the Tweak thread. The only difference was the TV. I tweaked everything while my wife and son were out feeding the cows and when she came in I had LOTR playing through the DVD player and I was about 12-13 ft. away from it. She sat down about the same distance away and I asked her how it looked. She said it's fine except for those lines through the top and bottom. She saw them within 10 seconds of looking at it. It just blows my mind that this is showing it's ugly head now and by all thoughts of reasoning one would have to think it was probably on the original set but we never saw it. At this point I don't know what to think. If I could get to the original set easily and check it I would but I don't think they would allow me to do so. If I had it to do over again I would just had a Tech come look at the faint greenish hue problem, see what could be done and just lived with the few dead pixels. Maybe it was there all along, with the other set, and we were so picky with making sure that this one was okay that we just now noticed it but it was so d@mn noticable I just don't see how we could not have seen it before. I'm really bummed out sitting here watching a 19" TV, hauled up from the basement, until we decide our next move. Sorry to sound so down and out.
Grateful11

OK, I need some help! I am getting this TV early tomorrow morning, and I am having (rare) company over! I want to impress everyone with the new TV, and we'll be watching some HD programming. I dont have time before they come over to search through all the threads, so Im hoping someone who has followed this thread or has better search skills than me can point me in the direction (or post yourself!) post-calibration settings for this TV! I know NOTHING about calibrating TV's, I dont know how to use DVE/Avia/THX/etc. I know the picture wont be great out of the box, and my company will arrive about one hour after getting home with this TV. I dont want to be busy messing with the settings when they arrive. I would really appreciate seeing some proper settings that I could adjust my set to. Thanks in advance for any help anyone is willing to give me!!

OK, I need some help! I am getting this TV early tomorrow morning, and I am having (rare) company over! I want to impress everyone with the new TV, and we'll be watching some HD programming. I dont have time before they come over to search through all the threads, so Im hoping someone who has followed this thread or has better search skills than me can point me in the direction (or post yourself!) post-calibration settings for this TV! I know NOTHING about calibrating TV's, I dont know how to use DVE/Avia/THX/etc. I know the picture wont be great out of the box, and my company will arrive about one hour after getting home with this TV. I dont want to be busy messing with the settings when they arrive. I would really appreciate seeing some proper settings that I could adjust my set to. Thanks in advance for any help anyone is willing to give me!!


Read the thread from the beginning, the answer was right in front of you (and you would have found it faster than the time it took you to write out your post).

Read the thread from the beginning, the answer was right in front of you (and you would have found it faster than the time it took you to write out your post).

Just read through the first five pages. Nothing. Like I said, Im just looking for someone to give me a hand, not tell me the answer is right in front of me.

Just read through the first five pages. Nothing. Like I said, Im just looking for someone to give me a hand, not tell me the answer is right in front of me.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=567709

Thanks gvg45

Maybe it was there all along, with the other set, and we were so picky with making sure that this one was okay that we just now noticed it but it was so d@mn noticable I just don't see how we could not have seen it before. I'm really bummed out sitting here watching a 19" TV, hauled up from the basement, until we decide our next move. Sorry to sound so down and out.
Grateful11

Well, this goes back to my theory that it's extra filtering that the A10 is adding that exaggerates the EE, making it stand out more. On my smaller 30" Sony CRT, I never noticed this problem. It was probably there, but I never really seen it since the screen was a lot smaller. Edge enhancement has been a plague on DVDs for years. HD-DVD should put an end to this problem.

One thing I will mention is that some DVDs show this worse than others. The Star Wars Trilogy DVDs don't seem to show it as much. I'm guessing there is a SM tweak to turn off the filtering. You could see about getting the A10 calibrated by an ISF professional. They would likely know what this issue is and possibly know a way to lessen the effect.

Well, this goes back to my theory that it's extra filtering that the A10 is adding that exaggerates the EE, making it stand out more. On my smaller 30" Sony CRT, I never noticed this problem. It was probably there, but I never really seen it since the screen was a lot smaller. Edge enhancement has been a plague on DVDs for years. HD-DVD should put an end to this problem.

One thing I will mention is that some DVDs show this worse than others. The Star Wars Trilogy DVDs don't seem to show it as much. I'm guessing there is a SM tweak to turn off the filtering. You could see about getting the A10 calibrated by an ISF professional. They would likely know what this issue is and possibly know a way to lessen the effect.

Thanks Dark Rain for the suggestions and your tweaks. I have pondered over the Oppo player before and may just pop for one and see what happens. I can use it mainly for my 2.35 DVD's. I was wanting to hook my SA8300HD STB with HDMI but if I get an HDMI DVD player I'll need to pop for one of those HDMI switch boxes, she's going to kill me. I just wonder if there is a qualified Calibrator in the Charlotte, NC area. I really like the A10 sets, hard to beat for the money. I might just take some different DVD's in a see what happens, I have the SW Trilogy. My wife says if I don't come home with something tomorrow not to come home at all. Never thought I'd hear her talk like that about a TV. She's gotten used to the that big 50 incher. If there any other suggestions from anyone please feel free to response even if you say I was crazy doing what I did to begin with. Also I just remembered that a lot of places are going to closed tomorrow. :(
Grateful11

Sears is open on Easter, if nothing else is.

Sears is open on Easter, if nothing else is.

I tried to call our nearest Sears and I can't get them to answer. Looks like I'm going to be
in the doghouse tonight. :( HHgregg, Queen City, Circuit City are all closed.

HHgregg has the Panasonic PT61LCX65 for the killer price of $2K I'm not sure great a set
it is but that's killer price. I'm reserching it right now. The 52" is $1.7K. I'm wondering
if you have to use their stand because they almost look like their made together, if you
do that won't work for me.
Grateful11

Second set in 2 days! My original 50A10 I bought back in Nov. developed several dead pixels and a slight greenish tint in one area of the screen, July '05 build. I took it back to Costco and got my money as they didn't have any more. I went to CC and they came down to $2020 and I said, it's a deal. I brought it home last night and it had a huge bright purple spot about 8" x 10" near the lower edge of the screen near the center on every input and channel, Sept. '05 build. I took it back this morning and got another one, Dec. '05 build. I got all my settings set in the Custom settings like I wanted, as I couldn't see anything wrong with it, and then I went on to my DVD inputs, which are component connections from a Pioneer progressive-scan DVD player. First thing we noticed was a horizontal line in the top and bottom of the picture about 1/8" - 1/4" above and below the top and bottom extremes with 2:35 ratio DVD's. Not only is there a faint line but the picture is slightly brighter above and below that line. Has anyone ever experienced anything like this? You don't see it with 1:85's or any DVD's that fill the screen. I don't remember ever seeing this with my original set. I also hooked up a cheap Apex to the side RCA jacks and got the same effect with 2 different DVD's. I'm very disgusted with this and really hate to take back another one. Should I return another or try to ignore that it's there and live with it.
Grateful11

Click on Thumbnails

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v180/GratefulToo/th_ed96bf59.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v180/GratefulToo/ed96bf59.jpg)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v180/GratefulToo/th_5c556485.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v180/GratefulToo/5c556485.jpg)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v180/GratefulToo/th_4e6ee0c4.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v180/GratefulToo/4e6ee0c4.jpg)



I just bought the 50" A10 yesterday, and I read your post...I have the Panny CP72 dvd player hooked to video input 4. I played star wars ep III and viewed the same thing that you have posted about. Seems like it might be inherent to the TV itself? I do not have another dvd player to hook up to it. I dunno if it is worth taking back or not...not a huge deal to me I guess.

Thanks Dark Rain for the suggestions and your tweaks. I have pondered over the Oppo player before and may just pop for one and see what happens. I can use it mainly for my 2.35 DVD's. I was wanting to hook my SA8300HD STB with HDMI but if I get an HDMI DVD player I'll need to pop for one of those HDMI switch boxes, she's going to kill me. I just wonder if there is a qualified Calibrator in the Charlotte, NC area. I really like the A10 sets, hard to beat for the money. I might just take some different DVD's in a see what happens, I have the SW Trilogy. My wife says if I don't come home with something tomorrow not to come home at all. Never thought I'd hear her talk like that about a TV. She's gotten used to the that big 50 incher. If there any other suggestions from anyone please feel free to response even if you say I was crazy doing what I did to begin with. Also I just remembered that a lot of places are going to closed tomorrow. :(
Grateful11


I am also in the Charlotte, NC area. Where did you get your TV from? I bought mine at costco. They had quite a few of them there. I have tried a few more movies and have still experienced the same black line.

This question has probably been asked a million times...

How do I set my TV so that when I watch 4:3 TV it displays in wide zoom mode and when I watch 16:9 HDTV it displays in full mode, where the modes would switch automatically? Right now I have my wide mode setting = wide zoom and my 4:3 default = off....or do I have to manually switch everytime I watch 4:3 TV and then HDTV? Thanks!

Forget the Panny I was talking about above I just read the review at AV Guide and you can't scretch a 4:3 image horizontally on a 720 or 1080 channel, full mode only. Can't deal with that, Sony does a great job of this, it's nearly seamless.

I am also in the Charlotte, NC area. Where did you get your TV from? I bought mine at costco. They had quite a few of them there. I have tried a few more movies and have still experienced the same black line.

Hi Dan, I went to the Winston-Salem store, much closer to me. So you are getting the lines too. It must be the sets but I may try the Oppo Player like Dark Rain said and see what happens.
Thanks

This question has probably been asked a million times...

How do I set my TV so that when I watch 4:3 TV it displays in wide zoom mode and when I watch 16:9 HDTV it displays in full mode, where the modes would switch automatically? Right now I have my wide mode setting = wide zoom and my 4:3 default = off....or do I have to manually switch everytime I watch 4:3 TV and then HDTV? Thanks!

Hmmm.....Your settings match mine Dan and my 50A10 switches automatically between Wide zoom and Full when changing between SD and HD sources (at least on the same input). Maybe the problem is the set-up of your source; I have the SA8300 HD box using component out and it was important to keep the scale of the output as "passthrough", as opposed to fixing it at 720P or 1080i, for the auto aspect detect to work.

This question has probably been asked a million times...

How do I set my TV so that when I watch 4:3 TV it displays in wide zoom mode and when I watch 16:9 HDTV it displays in full mode, where the modes would switch automatically? Right now I have my wide mode setting = wide zoom and my 4:3 default = off....or do I have to manually switch everytime I watch 4:3 TV and then HDTV? Thanks!


I think someone already mentioned it, but the problem is most likely with your source. I have the H10 receiver from DirecTV. My settings are the following (under the HDTV setup menu option):

Aspect Ration: 16:9
Screen Format: Pillar Box (this is the key setting)
TV Resolution: All
Native: On

For the A10, my settings are:
Wide Mode: Full
4:3 Default: Off

Hope that helps.

Hi Dan, I went to the Winston-Salem store, much closer to me. So you are getting the lines too. It must be the sets but I may try the Oppo Player like Dark Rain said and see what happens.
Thanks

The lines are there but are less noticeable on the Oppo. Some of that is due to the sharper image you get using an all digital signal using HDMI. I watched the Chronicles Of Narnia DVD last night and I could see the lines, but they were very faint. The transfer was a bit soft, so that might be the reason.

I guess on the 50" A10 they going to be more noticeable no matter what DVD player you use. The larger screen is going to make the flaws more noticeable. The lines just may be a part of the film to DVD transfer process and has nothing to do with the TV or DVD player. If that is the case then you'll just have to live with it.

The lines are there but are less noticeable on the Oppo. Some of that is due to the sharper image you get using an all digital signal using HDMI. I watched the Chronicles Of Narnia DVD last night and I could see the lines, but they were very faint. The transfer was a bit soft, so that might be the reason.

I guess on the 50" A10 they going to be more noticeable no matter what DVD player you use. The larger screen is going to make the flaws more noticeable. The lines just may be a part of the film to DVD transfer process and has nothing to do with the TV or DVD player. If that is the case then you'll just have to live with it.


So you don't think it is the TV that has the problem? Just something inherent to DVD's in general? Hmmm...I am wondering if DLP's have the same issue?

Hmmm.....Your settings match mine Dan and my 50A10 switches automatically between Wide zoom and Full when changing between SD and HD sources (at least on the same input). Maybe the problem is the set-up of your source; I have the SA8300 HD box using component out and it was important to keep the scale of the output as "passthrough", as opposed to fixing it at 720P or 1080i, for the auto aspect detect to work.

I have the SA8300HD Box as well and I am using component out...I just switched it to passthrough and the picture still doesn't change from wide zoom to full when I switch from a 4:3 to an HD channel? Are you positive your's is switching?

So you don't think it is the TV that has the problem? Just something inherent to DVD's in general? Hmmm...I am wondering if DLP's have the same issue?

Grateful11 mentioned that a Plasma showed the lines also, so I would imagine a DLP would, too.

I was really blown away by this as was everyone else there. I know the one lady at CC is a big movie buff and has some really nice stuff and a huge movie collection. We talk to to hear a lot about movies and stuff. She was as shocked as we were. She was the running around trying round up the best stuff they had and even ripped open up one of their $150 HDMI cables just to see what effect it had on it, it was still there. The SXRD exhibited it and the Plasmas. I was so bummed out I don't recall if we tried a DLP or not. Problem is I know it's there now and I'm just going to have to get used to. I'd really like to see how a new HD DVD player and disc with 2.35 ratio handles this. Best Buy has them in their ad but I just wonder if they actually have them in stock.

How come on CBSHD, "Friends" is showing in 4:3? Is it 4:3 but still HD? I have the TV in full mode and all the other HD stations seem to be viewing properly?

How come on CBSHD, "Friends" is showing in 4:3? Is it 4:3 but still HD? I have the TV in full mode and all the other HD stations seem to be viewing properly?
Many local affiliates don't broadcast anything on their end in HD. They either pillarbox (good) or stretch (not good) the SD content they're airing.

You also run into the problem with local stations not flipping the HD switch during prime time. "Cold Case," which airs on CBS, wasn't in HD last night where I live.

Hello, I just picked up the 50a10 the other day and so far am loving it. However a few things are driving me crazy, mainly having to do with getting the OAR to be displayed on the tv properly. I have the Sony DVP-NS70H upconverting DVD player. Currently it is connected to the 50a10 via component (HDMI cable being shipped as we speak) and tv type is set for 16x9.

I feel that I have a pretty decent grasp of the aspect ratios, but I am definitely missing something.

When I put in an anamorphic DVD such as, LOTR: TT, SW: EP3, etc. and the tv is in the Wide Mode: Normal the picture has black bars on both the left/right and top/bottom of the picture. I understand that there will still be bars on the top/bottom because of the difference in 16x9 aspect and anamorphic aspect, but am not sure why the bars are on the left and right. It seems to me from the manual that the "Normal" wide mode is the unaltered image.

In the Wide Mode: Full there are only bars on the top/bottom but the image looks "stretched" or altered in some way and not the true image. The manual and description indicates the same.

The zoom mode obviously is zooming the image and chopping parts off, the wide zoom seems very similar to the Full setting but also appears to be stretched.

So is this the way it should be, am I missing something. Is it because the signal is only being displayed in 480p at the moment?

I have the SA8300HD Box as well and I am using component out...I just switched it to passthrough and the picture still doesn't change from wide zoom to full when I switch from a 4:3 to an HD channel? Are you positive your's is switching?

Yup!...just double checked my settings, through the Wega gate menu I have wide mode set to wide zoom and 4:3 default set to off (these settings are important). The SA8300 is set to passthrough (auto is displayed on the front digital readout). I have the output of the 8300 connected via component to input 5 of the A10. When I tune an SD channel on the 8300, the front readout reads 480i Auto and the A10 displays as wide zoom. If I change to an HD channel, the 8300's display reads 720P (or 1080i) Auto and the A10 displays in Full mode. It will consistently switch back and forth.
Now, I have the Canadian version of the A10, without the digital tuner, so maybe there is an internal software difference. In fact, this auto switching between wide zoom and full even occurs when I switch between an analog tuner channel and an anamorphic dvd movie on component input 4 (as long as my dvd player is set for 480i and 16:9 out, NOT 480P out).

Hello, I just picked up the 50a10 the other day and so far am loving it. However a few things are driving me crazy, mainly having to do with getting the OAR to be displayed on the tv properly. I have the Sony DVP-NS70H upconverting DVD player. Currently it is connected to the 50a10 via component (HDMI cable being shipped as we speak) and tv type is set for 16x9.

I feel that I have a pretty decent grasp of the aspect ratios, but I am definitely missing something.

When I put in an anamorphic DVD such as, LOTR: TT, SW: EP3, etc. and the tv is in the Wide Mode: Normal the picture has black bars on both the left/right and top/bottom of the picture. I understand that there will still be bars on the top/bottom because of the difference in 16x9 aspect and anamorphic aspect, but am not sure why the bars are on the left and right. It seems to me from the manual that the "Normal" wide mode is the unaltered image.

In the Wide Mode: Full there are only bars on the top/bottom but the image looks "stretched" or altered in some way and not the true image. The manual and description indicates the same.

The zoom mode obviously is zooming the image and chopping parts off, the wide zoom seems very similar to the Full setting but also appears to be stretched.

So is this the way it should be, am I missing something. Is it because the signal is only being displayed in 480p at the moment?

The problem I had when I got my first A10 with this was I had the DVD Player itself
defaulted for a 4:3 TV. As soon as I switched to 16:9 wide all anamorphic DVD played
right with the A10 set on Full, no black bars on the sides just top and bottom.
Grateful11

Give me wide or give me nothing. :D

Yup!...just double checked my settings, through the Wega gate menu I have wide mode set to wide zoom and 4:3 default set to off (these settings are important). The SA8300 is set to passthrough (auto is displayed on the front digital readout). I have the output of the 8300 connected via component to input 5 of the A10. When I tune an SD channel on the 8300, the front readout reads 480i Auto and the A10 displays as wide zoom. If I change to an HD channel, the 8300's display reads 720P (or 1080i) Auto and the A10 displays in Full mode. It will consistently switch back and forth.
Now, I have the Canadian version of the A10, without the digital tuner, so maybe there is an internal software difference. In fact, this auto switching between wide zoom and full even occurs when I switch between an analog tuner channel and an anamorphic dvd movie on component input 4 (as long as my dvd player is set for 480i and 16:9 out, NOT 480P out).

Actually I figured out my problem by reading some other posts. It turns out the SA8300 is set by default to only transmit 1080i, therefore everything that was sent to the tv, the tv perceived as being 1080i and didn't switch modes. I went into the settings of the SA8300 and enabled transmission of 480i and 480p...now the TV recognizes the signal and switches appropriatly. I did not enable 720p to minimize switching (since 1080i and 720p are similar)...but maybe I should, now that I think about it??

Hello, I just picked up the 50a10 the other day and so far am loving it. However a few things are driving me crazy, mainly having to do with getting the OAR to be displayed on the tv properly. I have the Sony DVP-NS70H upconverting DVD player. Currently it is connected to the 50a10 via component (HDMI cable being shipped as we speak) and tv type is set for 16x9.

I feel that I have a pretty decent grasp of the aspect ratios, but I am definitely missing something.

When I put in an anamorphic DVD such as, LOTR: TT, SW: EP3, etc. and the tv is in the Wide Mode: Normal the picture has black bars on both the left/right and top/bottom of the picture. I understand that there will still be bars on the top/bottom because of the difference in 16x9 aspect and anamorphic aspect, but am not sure why the bars are on the left and right. It seems to me from the manual that the "Normal" wide mode is the unaltered image.

In the Wide Mode: Full there are only bars on the top/bottom but the image looks "stretched" or altered in some way and not the true image. The manual and description indicates the same.

The zoom mode obviously is zooming the image and chopping parts off, the wide zoom seems very similar to the Full setting but also appears to be stretched.

So is this the way it should be, am I missing something. Is it because the signal is only being displayed in 480p at the moment?

Make sure you have the DVD player set to 16:9 mode.

The problem I had when I got my first A10 with this was I had the DVD Player itself
defaulted for a 4:3 TV. As soon as I switched to 16:9 wide all anamorphic DVD played
right with the A10 set on Full, no black bars on the sides just top and bottom.
Grateful11

Give me wide or give me nothing. :D

So then is Wide Mode: Full the proper setting for anamorphic widescreen dvd's? At first I thought it was but the more I look it seems stretched to me.


Make sure you have the DVD player set to 16:9 mode.

I double checked a few times and the player is set to 16:9.


I guess what it boils down to is what is the correct Wide mode for displaying various widscreen content? I dont like the idea of stretching the image especially considering this is a widescreen display.

I have the SA8300HD cable box setup to transmit 480i, 480p, 1080i, and 720p...should I not have all these modes selected? Should I only select 720p since that is the native resolution? Which is better 480i or 480p?

So then is Wide Mode: Full the proper setting for anamorphic widescreen dvd's? At first I thought it was but the more I look it seems stretched to me.

I double checked a few times and the player is set to 16:9.

I guess what it boils down to is what is the correct Wide mode for displaying various widscreen content? I dont like the idea of stretching the image especially considering this is a widescreen display.

I believe you would want FULL as your wide mode setting for (most) DVD's on the A10. In my experience, the A10 will adjust to FULL mode automatically on a widescreen or anamorphic DVD if the player is set to output 480i and 16:9 on the component out (may also depend on your default A10 aspect settings in wega gate, mine are "wide mode=wide zoom" and "4:3 default=off") If the DVD is set to output 480p, you will have to set the A10 aspect ratio manually. As an experiment, try changing the output of the DVD player and see how the TV reacts.

Wide Zoom is definitely "not" what you want for any widescreen DVD. If it's not filling up the sides
when playing a widescreen dvd 2.35 or 1.78 then your DVD Player is not set-up right. atek99 is
correct. Wide Zoom will stretch the sides and slightly zoom the center. It does a nice job with 4:3
but it's not necessary with wide DVD's.
Grateful11

Wide Zoom is definitely "not" what you want for any widescreen DVD. If it's not filling up the sides
when playing a widescreen dvd 2.35 or 1.78 then your DVD Player is not set-up right. atek99 is
correct. Wide Zoom will stretch the sides and slightly zoom the center. It does a nice job with 4:3
but it's not necessary with wide DVD's.
Grateful11

Yea I was pretty sure that wide zoom was not the correct setting. As you and atek99 mentioned it is likely my dvd player. However, I have checked and re-checked the setting and it is set for a widescreen 16:9 display. Perhaps this indicates that my dvd player is malfunctioning?

I only get black bars on the sides when the tv is in the "Normal" wide setting. Should it not be not showing these bars on this setting? Should this be the correct setting? but not displaying properly?

Is Full the proper setting? that looks the closest to the correct setting to me (bars on top and bottom, no bars on the side), but the description for this setting leads me to believe that its not.

The lines are there but are less noticeable on the Oppo. Some of that is due to the sharper image you get using an all digital signal using HDMI. I watched the Chronicles Of Narnia DVD last night and I could see the lines, but they were very faint. The transfer was a bit soft, so that might be the reason.


I feel like a total n00b, but what is "Oppo"?

Also, I know the A10's only have one HDMI so do you guys prefer to hookup the DVD player to HDMI and the Cable via Component or visa-versa?

"Oppo" is an upconverting DVD player that has had very good reviews. Made by OppoDigital, website: http://www.oppodigital.com

I have my cable box via HDMI and DVD player via component, because my DVD player does not have the HDMI connectors. From what I understand, it doesn't make much difference either way.

How come on CBSHD, "Friends" is showing in 4:3? Is it 4:3 but still HD? I have the TV in full mode and all the other HD stations seem to be viewing properly?

Unless I have this completely wrong, 'Friends' was never shot in HD during its run on NBC, so it was an SD show and 4x3 in its original format. When it or any other non-HD/non-widescreen programming airs on a DTV channel, the broadcaster will 'upconvert' the show (take the SD source and try to make it look better on an HD monitor), and then have to pad the sides with a 'pillarbox', 'stretch' the 4x3 image across the 16x9 window, or cut off the top and bottom with a false 'letterbox' that wasn't intended in the first place. The approach that gives you 100% of the original image is the pillarbox, which then allows you to fiddle with it at home using your set's controls (if you choose).

One of the things that a lot of folks haven't realized about the DTV/HDTV transition is that we'll be living with old 4x3 material for decades, since there is a massive library of SD programming that won't just dissapear overnight. So you should get used to seeing 4x3 shows on your set, and deciding if you can live with the centered image, or prefer the 'wide zoom' option on your A10.

Yea I was pretty sure that wide zoom was not the correct setting. As you and atek99 mentioned it is likely my dvd player. However, I have checked and re-checked the setting and it is set for a widescreen 16:9 display. Perhaps this indicates that my dvd player is malfunctioning?

I only get black bars on the sides when the tv is in the "Normal" wide setting. Should it not be not showing these bars on this setting? Should this be the correct setting? but not displaying properly?

Is Full the proper setting? that looks the closest to the correct setting to me (bars on top and bottom, no bars on the side), but the description for this setting leads me to believe that its not.

Full is the right setting. Normal is what you would use for 4x3 content (I don't know why it's called normal). You don't have anything wrong with your TV or DVD player.....set it to Full mode.

"Oppo" is an upconverting DVD player that has had very good reviews. Made by OppoDigital, website: http://www.oppodigital.com

I have my cable box via HDMI and DVD player via component, because my DVD player does not have the HDMI connectors. From what I understand, it doesn't make much difference either way.

Whether it makes any difference or not can depend on which player you are discussing...

In the case of the Oppo it makes a HUGE difference as the scaling/de-interlacing engine is physically located on the DVI board and only the signals going out over DVI are processed.

Whether it makes any difference or not can depend on which player you are discussing...

In the case of the Oppo it makes a HUGE difference as the scaling/de-interlacing engine is physically located on the DVI board and only the signals going out over DVI are processed.

Does that mean you should hook-up tjhe Oppo via DVI over Component?

Does that mean you should hook-up tjhe Oppo via DVI over Component?

No. The Oppo should be hooked up with a DVI-HDMI cable (it comes with one) to get the full benefit from the Faroudja de-interlacer. Hooking up via component will just send a 480i signal to the TV. The A10 will upconvert and do its own de-interlacing. There would be no reason to get the Oppo if you're going to just use the component connection.

No. The Oppo should be hooked up with a DVI-HDMI cable (it comes with one) to get the full benefit from the Faroudja de-interlacer. Hooking up via component will just send a 480i signal to the TV. The A10 will upconvert and do its own de-interlacing. There would be no reason to get the Oppo if you're going to just use the component connection.

So if we're using the HDMI connection for the DVD player....I guess we should use component for the cable STB?

So if we're using the HDMI connection for the DVD player....I guess we should use component for the cable STB?

That's what I'm using.

I have the SA8300HD cable box setup to transmit 480i, 480p, 1080i, and 720p...should I not have all these modes selected? Should I only select 720p since that is the native resolution? Which is better 480i or 480p?

bump...did a little playing and it seems 1080i shows better than 720p? Couldn't tell much of a difference between 480i and 480p? Any opinions?

Sorry, guys. I guess I should've said that "in my case, it doesn't make much difference."

Does that mean you should hook-up tjhe Oppo via DVI over Component?

That means for the Oppo you absolutely positively should only use the DVI out to whatever your display device is. :D

bump...did a little playing and it seems 1080i shows better than 720p? Couldn't tell much of a difference between 480i and 480p? Any opinions?

What looks good to some may not look good to others.
That being said, it may be best to set the box to pass through and let your TV convert the signal to 720p. This way the signal only gets processed once, by your TV, instead of twice (box and TV). Another thing, if you set your box to display 1080 only your not using your 'DRC palette' feature on your set which can improve quality on 480i/p signals.
Try it out and see what YOU like best. :)

So if we're using the HDMI connection for the DVD player....I guess we should use component for the cable STB?

Or you can call the nice folks at Monoprice (or Gefen or a couple of others) and purchase an HDMI switch that will allow you to have multiple devices that output HDMI (they sell 1x2, 1x4, and I think 1x5 [one in five out]) switches.

That way to take advantage of the digital out on as many components as you have, however you might want to check your source devices by connecting them to the component and viewing and then connecting to the HDMI and viewing... switch back and forth a couple of times and see if there is an appreciable difference for the individual sources. There absolutely will be for the Oppo (you don't even need to try that one), but with each of the others (cable/satellite STB's) only your eyes will be able to make that call.

If there is no difference and you have as many sources as you do inputs then it makes connections that much easier... (how many component in's does the A10 have? and are they all "full" definition inputs [like my BenQ projector has two sets of component in's, but one of them is full HD while the other will only accept up to 480i... go figure]). If you do not see an appreciable difference hooking your cable/satellite to HDMI over component then just go that way and save yourself buying another piece of equipment until you need to...... :D

What looks good to some may not look good to others.
That being said, it may be best to set the box to pass through and let your TV convert the signal to 720p. This way the signal only gets processed once, by your TV, instead of twice (box and TV). Another thing, if you set your box to display 1080 only your not using your 'DRC palette' feature on your set which can improve quality on 480i/p signals.
Try it out and see what YOU like best. :)

That is one feature I miss with my HD-Tivo over my old cable box... no "native" pass-through setting, where it just sends on to the TV whatever it is receiving.

What looks good to some may not look good to others.
That being said, it may be best to set the box to pass through and let your TV convert the signal to 720p. This way the signal only gets processed once, by your TV, instead of twice (box and TV). Another thing, if you set your box to display 1080 only your not using your 'DRC palette' feature on your set which can improve quality on 480i/p signals.
Try it out and see what YOU like best. :)


I had it set to pass thru and 720p, 480i, 480p...then i set it to pass thru with 1080i, 480i, and 480p...I thought the 1080i looked better....but if I am only passing 1080i, does that mean 720p material is being converted by the box to 1080i and then sent to my TV? Then my TV converts it to 720p since it is native?

In any case, HD material looks awesome...however, watching 480i I can sometimes see two faint vertical bars on the left side of the TV (do not see them on HD channels) is there a reason for this? How do I improve this?

I had it set to pass thru and 720p, 480i, 480p...then i set it to pass thru with 1080i, 480i, and 480p...I thought the 1080i looked better....but if I am only passing 1080i, does that mean 720p material is being converted by the box to 1080i and then sent to my TV? Then my TV converts it to 720p since it is native?


I have the same box as you (SA8300HD). What looks good on my set is when I choose, on my box, 1080, 720, 480p, & 480i.

Just to be clear...(some software is different)
On the box....settings--->more settings-->output formats..
Then check 1080, 720, 480p, 480i

That way what ever signal is being broadcasted the box just passes that thru and your set does all the work.

That is one feature I miss with my HD-Tivo over my old cable box... no "native" pass-through setting, where it just sends on to the TV whatever it is receiving.

Thats a bummer. I am not familiar with the HD-Tivo. I assume with not being able to set a pass through you just set it to pass your TV's 'native' resolution? If thats the case your not able to utilize your DRC feature unless you change inputs for SD broadcasts?

Yes, the TV will accept other resolutions. If you want the best picture, however, install Powerstrip and use the timings listed in my signature below. I know it natively accepts 1280x768 (isn't that WXGA?). The best picture with little/no overscan will be slightly smaller than that.


I am attempting to get 1:1 pixel mapping on my HTPC and new TV. I've got a Sony 42A10 with an ATI 9600 Pro hooked up via DVI to HDMI cable.

With the catalyst drivers when I choose "720p standard (1280 x 720 @ 60Hz)" my HTPC doesn't show entirely on my TV. However, when I choose "720p optimized (1152 X 648 @ 60Hz)" it fits on the screen but there is about 1/4" on all sides of the TV not being used..

How can I get 1:1 pixel mapping?

Thanks!

I am attempting to get 1:1 pixel mapping on my HTPC and new TV. I've got a Sony 42A10 with an ATI 9600 Pro hooked up via DVI to HDMI cable.

With the catalyst drivers when I choose "720p standard (1280 x 720 @ 60Hz)" my HTPC doesn't show entirely on my TV. However, when I choose "720p optimized (1152 X 648 @ 60Hz)" it fits on the screen but there is about 1/4" on all sides of the TV not being used..

How can I get 1:1 pixel mapping?

Thanks!

I haven't gotten DVI->HDMI to work well, but honestly I haven't tried much. I've only been using the VGA input.

I find it interesting, though, that you have 1/4" around the edges with 1152x648. I fill up the screen completely with my custom resolution of 1232x696. That makes me think that your 1152x648 could be giving you 1:1 pixel mapping, but it just has some underscan. The best way to check this is to look at plain text (with Cleartype not turned on). See if the text is black on specific pixels (no gray pixels).

Do you have Powerstrip installed? I'm very interested in trying out the 720p optimized resolution on my system with HDMI. If you have Powerstrip, or if you are willing to install it if you don't, can you copy the resolution parameters and send them to me? If this works I can add it to my Powerstrip settings linked in my signature. I also would like to have the additional video controls available on the HDMI that aren't available on the VGA input!

Thanks,
Tim

I apologize for changing the subject. I have a quick question. Those of you that have had to replace a lamp; have you found a reputable place to purchase that is not rediculously over-priced? I don't think I am near having to replace mine, but I just want to be ready just in case. I don't want to miss a minute of this TV!! :)

Also, is there a way to tell how many viewing hours you have with the lamp?

Thanks much.

I have the same box as you (SA8300HD). What looks good on my set is when I choose, on my box, 1080, 720, 480p, & 480i.

Just to be clear...(some software is different)
On the box....settings--->more settings-->output formats..
Then check 1080, 720, 480p, 480i

That way what ever signal is being broadcasted the box just passes that thru and your set does all the work.

Thanks for the response. I had that setup before with all 4 selected, however I was getting alot of switching on the HD content because half is 1080i and half is 720p. When the TV switches source it seems kind of "harsh" on the TV? Can any damage occur due to excessive switching?

When I have the TV on with no source turned on (ie. black screen), I see probably 10-15 pixels that have a green, red, or blue color (not in a cluster, just in random spots on the screen). I have to be very close to the TV to see them. Are these stuck pixels? I was trying to view for dead pixels. Any suggestions on the best way to see if I have any? Do all LCD based TV's have dead/stuck pixels? Wondering if I should take the TV back?

i use powerstrip using a custom res of 1200x666 16:9 and i get a 1:1 mapping. I put my procedure somewhere on this thread, but i know it works. i use it daily.

Whoa.. Whoa.. Baby............

What is happening here fella's............

Sony claims this unit is:

Specifications
• Video
• Panel Type: LCD 0.73" (1280 x 720)

Therefor the native resolution of this TV is 1280x720. How can anyone be getting 1:1 pixel mapping at any resolution OTHER than 1280x720??

If you are not using all the pixels how do you figure you are mapping 1:1???

Whoa.. Whoa.. Baby............

What is happening here fella's............

Sony claims this unit is:

Specifications
• Video
• Panel Type: LCD 0.73" (1280 x 720)

Therefor the native resolution of this TV is 1280x720. How can anyone be getting 1:1 pixel mapping at any resolution OTHER than 1280x720??

If you are not using all the pixels how do you figure you are mapping 1:1???


That's what I was wondering..

Whoa.. Whoa.. Baby............

What is happening here fella's............

Sony claims this unit is:

Specifications
• Video
• Panel Type: LCD 0.73" (1280 x 720)

Therefor the native resolution of this TV is 1280x720. How can anyone be getting 1:1 pixel mapping at any resolution OTHER than 1280x720??

If you are not using all the pixels how do you figure you are mapping 1:1???

You are fitting the smaller resolution WITHIN the full resolution. If you set up a resolution of 1280x720, you will have overscan that will hide the task bar, scroll bars, etc...

Essentially you are blanking out enough pixels that the resolution matches the VISIBLE screen.

If they made it so you could see the entire 1280x720 on the screen, you would see garbage on the edges of the screen when watching trure 1280x720 HD feeds.

So...with the lower resolution, you are still matching pixel to pixel, you just aren't using the "unseen" pixels beyond the edges.