Thanks for the response. I had that setup before with all 4 selected, however I was getting alot of switching on the HD content because half is 1080i and half is 720p. When the TV switches source it seems kind of "harsh" on the TV? Can any damage occur due to excessive switching?

I have never heard of switching channels on your cable box would cause excessive damage to your TV. Anyone else??

IMO, I would just set up the TV to output the best quality and enjoy! :cool:

i use powerstrip using a custom res of 1200x666 16:9 and i get a 1:1 mapping. I put my procedure somewhere on this thread, but i know it works. i use it daily.

Here's your old post:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6339933&&#post6339933

I'll have to bring out the DVI->VGA cable and give it a shot. You mentioned that you get a 1/4" blank area around the perimter, just like the other resolution mentioned that makes sense since 1232x696 fits my screen almost perfectly. I'll see if I can modify the 1200x666 timing to change it to a valid 1232x696 timing for the DVI connection.

I believe I might have tried that timing in the VERY short time I fooled with the DVI connection, I think I was being picky, though, and trying to get something with a 59.94hz refresh rate to match video/film frame rates exactly. It might be worth trying again now that I'm more familiar with this TV.

Tim

i've got a 6800gt vga-vga connection

try these steps exactly:
go to display profiles in ps
then click advanced timing options
then custom resolutions
first choose 16:9
then choose the preset resolution 1200x666 (hdtv720p) on the left

now click add new resolution
accept away!

that should do it. works everytime and sure as hell looks 1:1

i had to adjust the position of the screen a bit, but now everything looks great. there is about a 1/4" black border around the screen.

If you have 1/4" black border then how do you get 1:1? You have 1/4" all around that isn't being used?!

You are fitting the smaller resolution WITHIN the full resolution. If you set up a resolution of 1280x720, you will have overscan that will hide the task bar, scroll bars, etc...

Essentially you are blanking out enough pixels that the resolution matches the VISIBLE screen.

If they made it so you could see the entire 1280x720 on the screen, you would see garbage on the edges of the screen when watching trure 1280x720 HD feeds.

So...with the lower resolution, you are still matching pixel to pixel, you just aren't using the "unseen" pixels beyond the edges.

So you are mapping your displayed pixels to a pixel on the screen..., but you are NOT using ALL available pixels... and on this TV they have the overscan set such that you cannot SEE all 1280x720 pixels... "very interesting Schtocker." (sorry couldn't help a little humor from the old days)

I am currently using a BenQ front projector that is also native 1280x720 and I Have my HTPC running Windows MCE which has 1280x720 as one of it's standard resolutions... it uses every pixel of my display and shows the entire desktop, including the task bar.

However, my projector does not have an "overscan" setting like some do, so on SD channels I see some garbage at the very top edge of the screen (I am told this is actually the digital audio track I am seeing)... but I do not recall ever seeing this on a true HD channel.

From what I've heard it works exactly the same for the 42".

FWIW, my experience is that your 50" settings did not work for my 42. I didn't save the entire list of Powerstrip settings since I only needed a modeline for linux, but here it is, if it helps anyone:

ModeLine "1280x720" 74.25 1280 1390 1430 1648 720 725 732 752 +hsync +vsync

Dan

So you are mapping your displayed pixels to a pixel on the screen..., but you are NOT using ALL available pixels... and on this TV they have the overscan set such that you cannot SEE all 1280x720 pixels... very interesting "Stocker."

I am currently using a BenQ front projector that is also native 1280x720 and I Have my HTPC running Windows MCE which has 1280x720 as one of it's standard resolutions... it uses every pixel of my display and shows the entire desktop, including the task bar.

However, my projector does not have an "overscan" setting like some do, so on SD channels I see some garbage at the very top edge of the screen (I am told this is actually the digital audio track I am seeing)... but I do not recall ever seeing this on a true HD channel.

Well...maybe you wouldn't see any garbage on a true HD feed, but you would see it on SD. What you say in your first paragraph is correct. These TV's have overscan.

I haven't gotten DVI->HDMI to work well, but honestly I haven't tried much. I've only been using the VGA input.

I find it interesting, though, that you have 1/4" around the edges with 1152x648. I fill up the screen completely with my custom resolution of 1232x696. That makes me think that your 1152x648 could be giving you 1:1 pixel mapping, but it just has some underscan. The best way to check this is to look at plain text (with Cleartype not turned on). See if the text is black on specific pixels (no gray pixels).

Do you have Powerstrip installed? I'm very interested in trying out the 720p optimized resolution on my system with HDMI. If you have Powerstrip, or if you are willing to install it if you don't, can you copy the resolution parameters and send them to me? If this works I can add it to my Powerstrip settings linked in my signature. I also would like to have the additional video controls available on the HDMI that aren't available on the VGA input!

Thanks,
Tim

You mean bring up Word and just type some stuff?

I've installed PS. How do I copy the parameters?

If you have 1/4" black border then how do you get 1:1? You have 1/4" all around that isn't being used?!

Make sure you are thinking about this on a Pixel level, not screen level. Each pixel the computer is spitting out matches one pixel exactly on the LCD. Some of the pixels are hidden from view on the TV, so some of the computer image would be hidden if you matched the resolution of 1280x720 on the LCD.

Maximum resolution 824 by 464??

http://tdsconsulting.net/SnagIt.jpg

Well...maybe you wouldn't see any garbage on a true HD feed, but you would see it on SD. What you say in your first paragraph is correct. These TV's have overscan.


I have been considering either one of these 42A10's for my family room TV... either that or a Samsung DLP... I am going to go back and take a better look at both of them today...

Can you use a menu selection to turn the overscan on or off or adjust it in any way?

I presume not, being that you have gone to the effort of developing custom resolutions to use the "visible" screen area...

You mean bring up Word and just type some stuff?

I've installed PS. How do I copy the parameters?

OK, I've got to get back to work so I'll try to make this quick... :rolleyes:

Since windows may have features turned on that "soften" fonts, you have to make sure things are set up properly. The quick way to do this is to right click "my computer" in the start menu, choose properties, choose the advanced tab, click the settings button under performance, choose the "best performance" option and click OK. It will make your system look like "old" windows, but you can change it back once you verify things.

Now, the text on the screen will not be "blurred", pixels are either on or off. You can look directly at the text in this post. When you look closely, it is comprised of individual pixels on or off, no gray, and you will see it this way on the TV if it is getting 1:1 pixel mapping. If everything seems to be shifted to just one side (i.e. there is a black line and most/all of the pixels to the right of the black ones are gray) you may be able to adjust the "phase" setting for the VGA input of the TV to align it , it might not have "auto adjusted" properly.

For Powerstrip, see the instructions linked in my signature. If it's not compete enough for you to follow, I probably just need to get off my butt and make the tutorial I was planning on making for setting it up.

I have been considering either one of these 42A10's for my family room TV... either that or a Samsung DLP... I am going to go back and take a better look at both of them today...

Can you use a menu selection to turn the overscan on or off or adjust it in any way?

I presume not, being that you have gone to the effort of developing custom resolutions to use the "visible" screen area...

I THINK that all these types of projection TV's have overscan built in. Some of them allow for adjustments, but you are just scaling the picture itself, you aren't actually moving the location of the pixels. I know there are adjustments on the Sony, but since the adjustment isn't really moving the pixels it isn't going to help when trying to achieve 1:1 pixel mapping. Maybe I shouldn't be so picky about that, but not having 1:1 pixel mapping degrades the picture, even if it may be barely noticable.

Maximum resolution 824 by 464??

http://tdsconsulting.net/SnagIt.jpg

I think that mine said that too, but it takes the higher resolutions without any problem.

Now...really...I have to get back to work! :D :D

Hey,

Did anyone pick up an HD-DVD player and hook to the A10 yet? Once you do, please post us your comments here.

Note: Make sure you set the output to 1080i on the player as the disks are 1080p format and the Toshiba downconverter stinks (apparently).

Anyway, I assume it will look great on this TV but would like to hear it. I'm waiting for Blu-ray (prolly) and prices to drop.

Mr. Pibb.. What version of PS are you using? You say to:
"For the desktop, this timing gives me 1:1 pixel mapping and it just fits the screen. Paste this timing into the custom resolution screen to set it up (IMPORTANT: copy the ENTIRE section between the lines --------- and use the paste button on the add new resolution screen):"

I don't see any paste button or an option to add new resolution screen in PS. I'm using 3.63

Mr. Pibb.. What version of PS are you using? You say to:
"For the desktop, this timing gives me 1:1 pixel mapping and it just fits the screen. Paste this timing into the custom resolution screen to set it up (IMPORTANT: copy the ENTIRE section between the lines --------- and use the paste button on the add new resolution screen):"

I don't see any paste button or an option to add new resolution screen in PS. I'm using 3.63

Right click the Powerstrip tray icon, choose "display profiles" then "configure"
Click the "advanced timing options..." button
Click the "Custom resolutions..." button
Click the "paste timings from clipboard" button (small icon of clipboard with a sheet of paper in front of it)
Click the "Add New Resolution Button"
It has some additional prompts, but I don't want to screw up my work computer ;)
I think you just click "ok"

Right click the Powerstrip tray icon, choose "display profiles" then "configure"
Click the "advanced timing options..." button
Click the "Custom resolutions..." button
Click the "paste timings from clipboard" button (small icon of clipboard with a sheet of paper in front of it)
Click the "Add New Resolution Button"
It has some additional prompts, but I don't want to screw up my work computer ;)
I think you just click "ok"

WTH? The advanced timing options is grayed out for me!

When purchasing an A10 is there a certian seriel number I should be looking for?

When I have the TV on with no source turned on (ie. black screen), I see probably 10-15 pixels that have a green, red, or blue color (not in a cluster, just in random spots on the screen). I have to be very close to the TV to see them. Are these stuck pixels? I was trying to view for dead pixels. Any suggestions on the best way to see if I have any? Do all LCD based TV's have dead/stuck pixels? Wondering if I should take the TV back?

I have a white blotch in the upper middle portion of my screen when there is no signal going. I asked about this earlier in the thread and others chimed in with similiar stuff.

With the power off it's normal, just watch the thing and enjoy.

With the power off it's normal, just watch the thing and enjoy.

Was that in reference to me or the other guy? Because I wasn't complaining, it doesn't show when I am watching something. :D

Well I'm back out of the doghouse with the purchase of another 50A10. Purchased
another one at a different Circuit City that moves a lot merchandise. This one has a
March 06 build date. My wife and I both believe the picture is clearer then the last one we
had and even though it still has some lines, top and bottom, in the 2.35 DVD's I don't
think it is as bad as the last set. Really couldn't believe they were actually trying to sell these
sets at MSRP. They matched a local chain store price minus 10% of the difference. I past
on the extended warranty.
Grateful11 :)

Lines photo link:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7491130&highlight=grateful11#post7491130

WTH? The advanced timing options is grayed out for me!

I've had that happen before. Restarting the computer fixed it for me.

Well I'm back out of the doghouse with the purchase of another 50A10. Purchased
another one at a different Circuit City that moves a lot merchandise. This one has a
March 06 build date. My wife and I both believe the picture is clearer then the last one we
had and even though it still has some lines, top and bottom, in the 2.35 DVD's I don't
think it is as bad as the last set. Really couldn't believe they were actually trying to sell these
sets at MSRP. They matched a local chain store price minus 10% of the difference. I past
on the extended warranty.
Grateful11 :)

Lines photo link:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7491130&highlight=grateful11#post7491130

How do you know what the build date is? Is there a seriel number on the outside of the box or an actual date. I am about to exchange mine due to a bunch of stuck pixels...wondering if the build date means anything?

The build date is on the back of the TV. Mine is March 06 as well.

The build date is on the back of the TV. Mine is March 06 as well.

Seems 3/06 is the build to get. Think they'll build more at a later date or is this it

The build date is on the back of the TV. Mine is March 06 as well.

Anyway to tell by looking at the outside of the box. I am going to costco where they have several sitting out. If I could tell by the seriel number or something on the packaging, it would be helpful. i don't think they will let me open them up

I plan on getting one of these :D

Me too..... now just to find the best deal ;)

How do you know what the build date is? Is there a seriel number on the outside of the box or an actual date. I am about to exchange mine due to a bunch of stuck pixels...wondering if the build date means anything?


It was cr@p shoot getting this particular date but it was my wifes idea to go to a higher volume store, she was right of course, aren't they always? The other two units from the other CC were Sept. and Dec. I couldn't believe they still had a Sept., it was the one with the big purple spot. Manager wanted to know if I got it near any big speakers. I said no which is true. I told him to my knowledge magnetic fields aren't suppose to effect LCD RPTV's. The first four numbers of my serial# is 8514... There's 3 more numbers not sure if this will help or not. There's no 3 in my serial number so I'm not sure how to decode it. I don't have the box so I can't say if the serial number is on it or not, it should be. If you already have a bunch of dead pixels I'd return it, I believe you just got it, correct?
Grateful11

It was cr@p shoot getting this particular date but it was my wifes idea to go to a higher volume store, she was right of course, aren't they always? The other two units from the other CC were Sept. and Dec. I couldn't believe they still had a Sept., it was the one with the big purple spot. Manager wanted to know if I got it near any big speakers. I said no which is true. I told him to my knowledge magnetic fields aren't suppose to effect LCD RPTV's. The first four numbers of my serial# is 8514... There's 3 more numbers not sure if this will help or not. There's no 3 in my serial number so I'm not sure how to decode it. I don't have the box so I can't say if the serial number is on it or not, it should be. If you already have a bunch of dead pixels I'd return it, I believe you just got it, correct?
Grateful11

Yeah, I just got it on Saturday from Costco...they had several there when I picked it up. I am going to return it, just worried I am going to get a worse set with more stuck pixels (even worse, black pixels) or a blue blob problem! Ugh...If it was only 2-3 stuck pixels I would be okay with it...but this one has more than 8 stuck pixels! We'll see what happens.

What is the best way to see the blue blob? Can you see it with no source and tv turned on? Or does it need a source?

What is the best way to see the blue blob? Can you see it with no source and tv turned on? Or does it need a source?

Watch something in B&W or put a solid gray screen.

Yeah, I just got it on Saturday from Costco...they had several there when I picked it up. I am going to return it, just worried I am going to get a worse set with more stuck pixels (even worse, black pixels) or a blue blob problem! Ugh...If it was only 2-3 stuck pixels I would be okay with it...but this one has more than 8 stuck pixels! We'll see what happens.

What is the best way to see the blue blob? Can you see it with no source and tv turned on? Or does it need a source?

The purple blob I had was on everything. I saw as soon as I turned it on with the start up screen, it was horrible. It was 8" high and 6" wide. I couldn't even look at the set that night. There was no missing this.
Grateful11

The purple blob I had was on everything. I saw as soon as I turned it on with the start up screen, it was horrible. It was 8" high and 6" wide. I couldn't even look at the set that night. There was no missing this.
Grateful11

Okay...so I originally had a Jan '06 model with about 8-10 stuck pixels and no blob issues that I noticed. Took it back to costco, and I now have a Dec '05 model with 1 stuck pixel and no blue blob that I noticed. I did notice a slightly darker shade of gray in the upper right corner when shown on a gray background, but hardly noticeable when there is a picture on the screen. All in all, I am pleased with the new set. Hopefully I will stop looking for things that are wrong with it now and just enjoy it.

Okay...so I originally had a Jan '06 model with about 8-10 stuck pixels and no blob issues that I noticed. Took it back to costco, and I now have a Dec '05 model with 1 stuck pixel and no blue blob that I noticed. I did notice a slightly darker shade of gray in the upper right corner when shown on a gray background, but hardly noticeable when there is a picture on the screen. All in all, I am pleased with the new set. Hopefully I will stop looking for things that are wrong with it now and just enjoy it.

One thing with Costco is no time limit on returns as long as you maintain a membership.
If this one goes bad in a few months you might be able to get the new model in its place.

Anyone besides me been keeping up with the Toshiba HD DVD Player thread off the front page? I
think it's going to set a record. 70 some pages in only 6 days. I read the whole thing, I was dizzy
afterwards. I'd like to see a first hand report on how it looks with an A10.
Grateful11

I am interested in an A10 50". I have heard good things but get different info on bulb life. Does anyone know how long it lasts?

Also I have now been told that LCD's can get burn in like the Plasmas, is this true?

Cheers, steveB

I watch a lot of sports. I've heard conflicting advice whether LCD rear projections are okay for fast action. One guys said no, that the refresh rate was too slow. Another said it was fine, more along the lines of DLP. Any problems watching sports on the e50A10? Thanks

I watch a lot of sports. I've heard conflicting advice whether LCD rear projections are okay for fast action. One guys said no, that the refresh rate was too slow. Another said it was fine, more along the lines of DLP. Any problems watching sports on the e50A10? Thanks

Normally I watch no sports except the Olympics or maybe Stihl Timbersports. After getting my first A10 last fall I found my self watching NFL and some of the races this season. Mine handles them just fine, no blurred action except extreme close-ups in the NFL games. My mom and dad were over during one of the Nascar races and she was like this is like being there. If you follow the tweaks given for these sets I think you'll enjoy it. I now have Standard set for daytime with a lot of light in the room and Custom set for night time viewing. It's very easy to switch between the setting just a push of one button. It defaults to Vivid right out of the box and I suspect some people never change it from that but they're missing out on a lot by not doing so. Vivid is enough that it made us nauseous the first night we had it, that or not being used to such a large screen. We went from a 4:3 32" HD Sanyo, we're sitting about 12-13 feet away.
Grateful11

I watch a lot of sports. I've heard conflicting advice whether LCD rear projections are okay for fast action. One guys said no, that the refresh rate was too slow. Another said it was fine, more along the lines of DLP. Any problems watching sports on the e50A10? Thanks

This T.V is fine for video games and sports, I cover boxing for the web and I have never had any motion blur issues.

I watch a lot of sports. I've heard conflicting advice whether LCD rear projections are okay for fast action. One guys said no, that the refresh rate was too slow. Another said it was fine, more along the lines of DLP. Any problems watching sports on the e50A10? Thanks

This 'used' to be the case. I have a Samsung 17" LCD that I bought over 3 years ago and it have motion blur/trails. The blur isn't that bad, but it's noticeable. Since then LCD technology has gotten a lot better and typically don't have this problem.

Although I don't have my 42A10 yet, the one at BB/CC looked just fine!

I have the first HD-DVD player and wanted to share my experience with it on a KDF-E42A10.

First, I have had mixed luck with SD DVDs on my set. I tried and returned various low end upconverting players, the last being the LG LDA-511. The best results I got were by hooking up my PC over VGA input through my high-end ATI 9800 video card.

This is what I used for an A/B comparison using Phantom of the Opera.

I was unsure how much I would notice on a 42 inch screen. I was however pleasantly suprised. The image was much sharper and the colors move vivid. I thought the SD disks over the PC looked pretty darn good, but not so much after seeing the HD version. This comparison was done sitting 7 feet away which is fairly close.

People keep asking if there was any Wow factor. The only Wow I had was when I got Hd programming for the first time and saw I, Robot and Discovery HD. Since then I am accustomed to the HD quality and not blown away any more.

All I can say is that the difference was quite noticeable for me on th a10 and will be hard for me to go back to SD-versions of movies after having a taste of how good they can look in HD.

P.S. the HD-A1 demo set at BB, a Westinghouse 42" 1080p LCD, looked much WORSE than my 42a10 at home!

The best results I got were by hooking up my PC over VGA input through my high-end ATI 9800 video card.

The 9800 was high-end years ago :D !

Good review though!

quick question about my dvd player and the aspect ratio actually being displayed on the tv.
I have a toshiba sd-3900 prog.scan dvd player hooked up through component.
I have the player set to progressive scan and the aspect ratio to 16x9, however tv's display says it is only receiving a 480p 4:3 image. With the tv set to "normal" for wide mode, it doesn't come close to filling the screen, and with the tv set to "full" it looks allright, but as I said before the tv's display info still only says it's a 4:3 image.
Any ideas?

One more thing. The HD-a1 player must be set to 1080i or the picture looks bad.

Yeah, I saw the Westinghouse 42" TV also w/ Toshiba HDDVDand the pic couldn't hold a candle to my 42A10.
They might have had the brightness turned all the way up but I believe the A10 is a better TV than the westinghouse, even with it's 1080p capability.

Comcast came by yesterday to swap out my HD motorola DVR box to the new all digital HD DVR ( I was having issues with the old box). The installer left the box at 1080i not 720p like the old box was set out. Am I in trouble or is everything ok? I thought I read a thread that you should keep the Motorola DVR at 1080i and let the TV do the rest. No more DVI on the Motorola either it is HDMI now. Glad I got the HDMI cable with the DVI adapter.

Thanks

Wynn

Okay...I have HDMI hooked up from SA8300HD box to TV. All seems to be working okay, however when I have a 4:3 480i source that is letterbox (black bars top and bottom) the image is shifted more toward the bottom such that the top black bar is bigger than the bottom (about 3/4" difference)? Why is this happening?

When I hook up using component , the image is in the middle of the screen and black bars are the same size..everything is fine!?!?! Something seems to be wrong when i use HDMI. I hope it is the source and not the TV.

Anyone know why?

new question although I'm still looking forward to any opinions on my last (4 posts up) question.
When can and can't you use the DRC palette?

Hey guys, im wondering whether to go 42" or 50" at 7-9feet, dependant to where i am in my bedroom, please help me uys, im thinking of getting it soon

new question although I'm still looking forward to any opinions on my last (4 posts up) question.
When can and can't you use the DRC palette?

You can't use DRC with any source higher than 480i.

Hey guys, im wondering whether to go 42" or 50" at 7-9feet, dependant to where i am in my bedroom, please help me uys, im thinking of getting it soon


This was discussed a lot during the last 5 pages or so. IMHO at 7-9 feet I'd go 42"...that's what I'm going to do

I have the 42a10 and sit 7-9 ft. With the 50 in. you may see the pixels and get the screen door effect.

Just for the heck of it here's a handheld screenshot of my 50A10 with my Canon A80 Digital Camera of
a HD PBS show. Resolution has been reduced with my computer so it would not be so large.

Click on the thumbnail.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v180/GratefulToo/th_97a25bd1.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v180/GratefulToo/97a25bd1.jpg)

Grateful11

Okay...I have HDMI hooked up from SA8300HD box to TV. All seems to be working okay, however when I have a 4:3 480i source that is letterbox (black bars top and bottom) the image is shifted more toward the bottom such that the top black bar is bigger than the bottom (about 3/4" difference)? Why is this happening?

When I hook up using component , the image is in the middle of the screen and black bars are the same size..everything is fine!?!?! Something seems to be wrong when i use HDMI. I hope it is the source and not the TV.

Anyone know why?

Does anyone have this problem? Anyone use HDMI from their cable box? Someone tell me it is not the TV's problem and I will be okay.

Maybe I should just use component for my cable box....I wish I had a HDMI dvd player to see if it happens when that is hooked up.

quick question about my dvd player and the aspect ratio actually being displayed on the tv.
I have a toshiba sd-3900 prog.scan dvd player hooked up through component.
I have the player set to progressive scan and the aspect ratio to 16x9, however tv's display says it is only receiving a 480p 4:3 image. With the tv set to "normal" for wide mode, it doesn't come close to filling the screen, and with the tv set to "full" it looks allright, but as I said before the tv's display info still only says it's a 4:3 image.
Any ideas?

Velvet396, someone who knows the "real answer" as to why may correct me, but I have found that for whatever reason the a10 assumes a 480p signal to be 4:3, even though you know better. Therefore, FULL mode is the correct aspect setting for your 16:9 DVD. Dark rain is correct, DRC is not available for anything above 480i. I actually changed my DVD output to 480i so the TV would switch to FULL automatically and I could also use the DRC. Preferred this degree of tweakability.

Does anyone have this problem? Anyone use HDMI from their cable box? Someone tell me it is not the TV's problem and I will be okay.

Maybe I should just use component for my cable box....I wish I had a HDMI dvd player to see if it happens when that is hooked up.

I have an SA 8300HD hooked up via HDMI to my 42A10. I do not see this problem you see.

quick question about my dvd player and the aspect ratio actually being displayed on the tv.
I have a toshiba sd-3900 prog.scan dvd player hooked up through component.
I have the player set to progressive scan and the aspect ratio to 16x9, however tv's display says it is only receiving a 480p 4:3 image. With the tv set to "normal" for wide mode, it doesn't come close to filling the screen, and with the tv set to "full" it looks allright, but as I said before the tv's display info still only says it's a 4:3 image.
Any ideas?

I have a similar problem. I got the 42A10 last night and have a Panasonic S25 hooked up with component video. The TV says the signal is 480i. I went through the setup and changed the DVD player to 16x9 and progressive, but it still says 480i.

I have the first HD-DVD player and wanted to share my experience with it on a KDF-E42A10.

I was unsure how much I would notice on a 42 inch screen. I was however pleasantly suprised. The image was much sharper and the colors move vivid. I thought the SD disks over the PC looked pretty darn good, but not so much after seeing the HD version. This comparison was done sitting 7 feet away which is fairly close.

All I can say is that the difference was quite noticeable for me on th a10 and will be hard for me to go back to SD-versions of movies after having a taste of how good they can look in HD.

Thanks for the great review! I thought it'd look great on the A10. Nice. Enjoy. I think once Lord of the Rings comes out on HD-DVD that will be the "true" test.

I have an SA 8300HD hooked up via HDMI to my 42A10. I do not see this problem you see.

So with a 480i source that is in 16X9 (ie. MTV, discovery, etc) the image has black bars. On your TV these black bars are equal in size on the top and bottom? Have you always used HDMI with your SA8300HD or did you switch from component to hdmi at some point in time?

Thanks

Hate to say it guys, but I went to BB for an hour today and I fell in love with Samsungs HLR5067W. It's nearly the same price ATM as the Sony 42A10 and a lot sharper too IMHO.

Of course I have another month or so before I make my final decision, but for now...the Samsung is looking good!

Hate to say it guys, but I went to BB for an hour today and I fell in love with Samsungs HLR5067W. It's the same price ATM as the Song 50A10 and a lot sharper too IMHO.

Of course I have another month or so before I make my final decision, but for now...the Samsung is looking good!

What were they selling the samsung and the sony for, can send me a PM with that info. Because at my local BB, the 5067w samsung is on a clearanced price that is around $400 less then the sony 50" A10. Hell, the samsung 5667w was even cheaper then the 50"a10

For you Dallas/Ft Worth folks (and possibly other areas with these 2 stores)...for the 42a10...buy at Conn's and price match with Fry's. I won't say the exact price, but you'll save at least 6 Benjis off full retail. Good til Tuesday 4/25.

Comcast came by yesterday to swap out my HD motorola DVR box to the new all digital HD DVR ( I was having issues with the old box). The installer left the box at 1080i not 720p like the old box was set out. Am I in trouble or is everything ok? I thought I read a thread that you should keep the Motorola DVR at 1080i and let the TV do the rest. No more DVI on the Motorola either it is HDMI now. Glad I got the HDMI cable with the DVI adapter.

If it's a moto 6412, leave it at 1080i. The deinterlacer in the a10 is much better than letting the 6412 do it.

guys here in new zealand,we have whats called the kfe42a10, not kdfe42a10 like in the styates, is this the same model???i think canadians have the same model as us new zealanders

I have the first HD-DVD player and wanted to share my experience with it on a KDF-E42A10.

First, I have had mixed luck with SD DVDs on my set. I tried and returned various low end upconverting players, the last being the LG LDA-511. The best results I got were by hooking up my PC over VGA input through my high-end ATI 9800 video card.

This is what I used for an A/B comparison using Phantom of the Opera.

I was unsure how much I would notice on a 42 inch screen. I was however pleasantly suprised. The image was much sharper and the colors move vivid. I thought the SD disks over the PC looked pretty darn good, but not so much after seeing the HD version. This comparison was done sitting 7 feet away which is fairly close.

People keep asking if there was any Wow factor. The only Wow I had was when I got Hd programming for the first time and saw I, Robot and Discovery HD. Since then I am accustomed to the HD quality and not blown away any more.

All I can say is that the difference was quite noticeable for me on th a10 and will be hard for me to go back to SD-versions of movies after having a taste of how good they can look in HD.

Thanks Roscoe, I was hoping someone would try this combination soon. Now if I could convince my wife, she says, "How clear does it need to be?"
Grateful11

For those thinking of the Samsung - make sure you don't see rainbows before purchasing a DLP! I actually ordered and received the Samsung you are thinking about and after 1 week and a half, had to send the TV back because not only were the rainbows so distracting, I would start to get headaches when veiwing the set. I'm sure I am one of a smaller % of people who have this much of a problem with color wheel technology, but I would not want someone to go through what I did, with sending/taking a TV back, losing money on it, etc. The best way to check is the take a good 15 min and try watching a color wheel set, and move your eyes across the screen while you are watching, to see if you see streaks of (I saw mostly red, some green) light, as you track your eyes across. Just trying to save people some trouble, otherwise I really liked the design and picture of the Samsung set. I also am very happy with the Sony 50 inch A10 that I bought to replace the Samsung. Haven't had any problems at all!

Quick question for you guys.

I have a A10 50" and noticed something yesterday that's got me wondering.
While watching the Yankee game in HD, during a closeup shot, I was able to see that the Baltimore pitcher Daniel Cabrera has some really bad skin. You can actually see the pock marks on his face! But when he begins to move the clarity is all gone and you can't see any detail what so ever. :confused:

Is this supposed to happen with all micro displays or is it the LCD technology rearing its ugly head?

I didn't notice this on my brother in laws Samsung DLP. It looked perfect whether the object was at a stand still or moving. The detail never went away.

Your prompt responses will be greatly appreciated. THANKS!!

abarry126.....I went through exactly what you did. I'm not slamming Samsung, as you clearly were not, but as you stated, the Rainbow effect made the set unwatchable for me, and I returned it for the Sony. I tried looking for the rainbow effect instore, and it I had to relly try to make it apparent. I had to rapidly move my eyes left, right, left, right, left, and I could see the rainbows, but they weren't that bad. The demo in the store didn't have enough high contrast to show the effect. When I got home I watched "Underworld", and could only make it through 6 or 7 minutes.
I love my 42a10.

Quick question for you guys.

I have a A10 50" and noticed something yesterday that's got me wondering.
While watching the Yankee game in HD, during a closeup shot, I was able to see that the Baltimore pitcher Daniel Cabrera has some really bad skin. You can actually see the pock marks on his face! But when he begins to move the clarity is all gone and you can't see any detail what so ever. :confused:

Is this supposed to happen with all micro displays or is it the LCD technology rearing its ugly head?

I didn't notice this on my brother in laws Samsung DLP. It looked perfect whether the object was at a stand still or moving. The detail never went away.

Your prompt responses will be greatly appreciated. THANKS!!

Shortly after getting my 42a10 I was watching Elektra on HBOHD and was amazed by the clarity. But during fast action sequences things got blocky. At first I thought it was my TV, but later learned that it was the compression technology used on the signal. I guess they think our eyes are too slow to see detail in fast moving scenes and thus save bandwith by blurring them.

Shortly after getting my 42a10 I was watching Elektra on HBOHD and was amazed by the clarity. But during fast action sequences things got blocky. At first I thought it was my TV, but later learned that it was the compression technology used on the signal. I guess they think our eyes are too slow to see detail in fast moving scenes and thus save bandwith by blurring them.

Mine isn't blocky. Its more like blurry or just a little out of focus.

I'm wondering if its the channel source, my TV, LCD Rear Projection in general, Micro Displays in general or possibly a week cable signal from being split too many times.

Mine isn't blocky. Its more like blurry or just a little out of focus.

I'm wondering if its the channel source, my TV, LCD Rear Projection in general, Micro Displays in general or possibly a week cable signal from being split too many times.

LCDs have a tendency to show motion blur on moving scenes. Ghosting can also occur, but is less of a problem today since response times are very good.

So with a 480i source that is in 16X9 (ie. MTV, discovery, etc) the image has black bars. On your TV these black bars are equal in size on the top and bottom? Have you always used HDMI with your SA8300HD or did you switch from component to hdmi at some point in time?

Thanks

Yes, they are equal in size.

I have always used HDMI for input from my cable box.

Mine isn't blocky. Its more like blurry or just a little out of focus.

I'm wondering if its the channel source, my TV, LCD Rear Projection in general, Micro Displays in general or possibly a week cable signal from being split too many times.

I experience the same blurry or out of focus when watching hockey. Through this thread I've been told it's compression. Other owners of HDTV's that I know do not see this if I ask. I'm not sure if they realy don't or just don't notice it like I do. The one thing I did do to try to convince myself it was the source was to record the hockey game on my dvr. What I found was that the dvr recorded the blurr or focus issue and was present on the playback frame by frame. To me this says it's the source.

Any other opinions/findings out there that anyone would care to share?

I watched the Hockey game on NBC yesterday for awhile - OTA HD, and I didn't notice any problems.

Hi guys! I was wondering if any of you could tell me if my newest Sony is defect or not. I've recently bought the KFE4210A two days ago and decided to set it up yesterday with my Xbox360 as well as my progressive DVD ( panasonic brand ) but for some reasons, the progressive inputs dont work.

All i get from all 3 components inputs is a wavy signal as if the TV wasn't supporting progressive mode which i know it does. I know it since when i press the progressive switch on my DVD player to get the 480i signal, the TV picture's ok but as soon as i activate the progrssive output to get 480p, my TV signal gets all wavy and the picture can never be clean. Same thing with the xbox360. If i set my cable to the HD setting, ill never get the TV to show the signal correctly. It always stays wavy/distorted as if it wasn't supported. Any help would be appreciate or if you think something is broke in it. Thanks.

Hi guys! I was wondering if any of you could tell me if my newest Sony is defect or not. I've recently bought the KFE4210A two days ago and decided to set it up yesterday with my Xbox360 as well as my progressive DVD ( panasonic brand ) but for some reasons, the progressive inputs dont work.

All i get from all 3 components inputs is a wavy signal as if the TV wasn't supporting progressive mode which i know it does. I know it since when i press the progressive switch on my DVD player to get the 480i signal, the TV picture's ok but as soon as i activate the progrssive output to get 480p, my TV signal gets all wavy and the picture can never be clean. Same thing with the xbox360. If i set my cable to the HD setting, ill never get the TV to show the signal correctly. It always stays wavy/distorted as if it wasn't supported. Any help would be appreciate or if you think something is broke in it. Thanks.

What type of cables are you using? I apologize if this question is below your knowledge level, but hopefully you are aware that only component cables (red, green, blue) or digital (HDMI/DVI) cables can carry a 480p or better signal. If you're using s-video or the yellow video cable, it's limited to 480i.

guys here in new zealand,we have whats called the kfe42a10, not kdfe42a10 like in the styates, is this the same model???i think canadians have the same model as us new zealanders

I believe the only difference is the KDF E42A10/E50A10 sold in the states has a built-in HD tuner. The one available in NZ and Canada does not have the built in tuner.

What type of cables are you using? I apologize if this question is below your knowledge level, but hopefully you are aware that only component cables (red, green, blue) or digital (HDMI/DVI) cables can carry a 480p or better signal. If you're using s-video or the yellow video cable, it's limited to 480i.



I'm using component cable ( Red,Green,Blue ). I have an old 30" Samsung EDTV which supports 480p through that cable and my Panasonic player plays fine @ 480p but not on the Sony KFE42A10 which in the manual, indicated it supports 480i/480p/720p/1080i

I believe the only difference is the KDF E42A10/E50A10 sold in the states has a built-in HD tuner. The one available in NZ and Canada does not have the built in tuner.



Even if its written it is supported in the manual and even if i have 480p/720p/1080i written on the side of the TV ( Component video2 when looking at the tv/input setting)? It is advertise on their canadian website the component input supports 480p/720p/1080i but you are right about the ATSC tuner, this model doesn't have it. Only the KDF model has it

You can't use DRC with any source higher than 480i.

I can't use the DRC palette with my cable (NTSC). Basic cable, no box, just hooked up directly into the RF input. Is this normal?

I've created a "tutorial" for setting up an HTPC with Powerstrip and a Sony A10

See it here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7545298#post7545298

Please post with any corrections, additions, etc...

I've created a "tutorial" for setting up an HTPC with Powerstrip and a Sony A10

See it here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7545298#post7545298

Please post with any corrections, additions, etc...

SWEET!

I've created a "tutorial" for setting up an HTPC with Powerstrip and a Sony A10

See it here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7545298#post7545298

Please post with any corrections, additions, etc...

Mr. Pibb,

Excellent job! Thanks.

You guys have a lot of information on these threads so I thought I'd pop in and ask a quick question. How are the black levels on the 42" A10 and how do they compare to the black levels on the SXRDs

We'll, I've had my 42A10 for a couple of weeks now and I am most happy with it. The PQ is very watchable on the analog feed which was one of my main concerns (and caused me to cancel my order for a Sceptre 42" flat panel LCD w/ 1920 x 1080 resolution). I was concerned the higher res. would cause analog broadcast to look horrible, and I'm sure we will be watching these lower resolution produced shows for years to come... we'll never see MacGyver in HDTV. Anyway, I do have a couple of tuning questions for some of the more veteran folks on this board...

I am using basic cable... Adelphia in Southern Calif. Prior to owning this TV, I was able to receive 80 analog channels. When the 42A10 was first fired up the channel scanning picked up those 80 analog channels in addition to 93 digital channels... 5 of which are HDTV (ABC, CBS, NBS, FOX & KCET).

So do I have this right?...

The NSTC tuner picked up the 80 analog channels (channels are displayed w/ NSTC)
The ASTC tuner picked up 93-5=88 digital channels (channels are displayed w/ 480i)
The QAM tuner picked up 5 HDTV channels (channels displayed w/ 780p or 1080i)

The last question I have is related to Video On Demand. The 42A10 receives the VOD preview channel and in addition I can occasionally view a VOD movie. There are 3 VOD movie channels that were picked up by the initial channel scan (112.5, 112.10 & 114.4). These (and all of the channels in the 112.xx, 113.xx & 114.xx range) occasionally have a VOD movie playing on them. How can this be??? I don't even have a STB. The cable comes from the wall, through a VCR (yes I said VCR, don't shoot me) and then to the 42A10. If it's truly "on demand" then why would anything be broadcast? Am I getting bleed over from my neighbors? Any ideas?

Now, if I could only figure out a schedule for when the movies were showing I might actually be able to see the beginning and not tune in midway though. ;)

^ Who knows, but don't complain....free TV is always good if it's given to you by the cable company!!

Mr. Pibb, thanks a million for that thread. I'll be setting up my HTPC to my A50 in a few weeks :)

The last question I have is related to Video On Demand. The 42A10 receives the VOD preview channel and in addition I can occasionally view a VOD movie. There are 3 VOD movie channels that were picked up by the initial channel scan (112.5, 112.10 & 114.4). These (and all of the channels in the 112.xx, 113.xx & 114.xx range) occasionally have a VOD movie playing on them. How can this be??? I don't even have a STB. The cable comes from the wall, through a VCR (yes I said VCR, don't shoot me) and then to the 42A10. If it's truly "on demand" then why would anything be broadcast? Am I getting bleed over from my neighbors? Any ideas?

VCR still in use here as well, so don't feel too bad. :)

You are most likely getting VOD from other people in the neighborhood. I did a channel scan back a few months ago and am getting the same thing. Even though I have a cable box, I was interested to see what I could pick up without it. The other night I was flipping through them and someone was watching "Doom." After a few miuntes of watching it they started to fast-forward through it, so I assumed that was a VOD channel. On another channel someone was watching a pr0n video. :cool:

VCR still in use here as well, so don't feel too bad. :)

You are most likely getting VOD from other people in the neighborhood. I did a channel scan back a few months ago and am getting the same thing. Even though I have a cable box, I was interested to see what I could pick up without it. The other night I was flipping through them and someone was watching "Doom." After a few miuntes of watching it they started to fast-forward through it, so I assumed that was a VOD channel. On another channel someone was watching a pr0n video. :cool:
_______________________________________________

Dark Rain - It's funny you mention Doom. I caught about half of it last night and just before the end, it did the fast forward/rewind thing. That's what led me to think about the neighbor bleed-over. None of the other movies I've seen on VOD have done this. Chalk it up to coincidence.

I need to thank you also for your 42A10 settings. A couple of weeks ago when I brought home this beast I used your settings for SD analog cable and the picture went from a sharply red image to life-like. I may be a few numbers off here and there, but as a starting point that was about as close as it gets. Thanks! :D

I have my 42A10 plugged into a PS Audio UPC-200. I've been searching in here to find out if most people believe that in the event of a power failure does the lamp lose life. I was thinking of getting a surge protector that has a back-up so the fan in my 42A10 can still run. I don't lose power alot but it happens once in a while.

You guys have a lot of information on these threads so I thought I'd pop in and ask a quick question. How are the black levels on the 42" A10 and how do they compare to the black levels on the SXRDs

In my opinion, the black levels on the A10 are quite good for an LCD. Being that the SXRD is LCos technology, the blacks are quite a bit better.....but the TV is also a lot more money.

_______________________________________________

Dark Rain - It's funny you mention Doom. I caught about half of it last night and just before the end, it did the fast forward/rewind thing. That's what led me to think about the neighbor bleed-over. None of the other movies I've seen on VOD have done this. Chalk it up to coincidence.

I need to thank you also for your 42A10 settings. A couple of weeks ago when I brought home this beast I used your settings for SD analog cable and the picture went from a sharply red image to life-like. I may be a few numbers off here and there, but as a starting point that was about as close as it gets. Thanks! :D

You're welcome. If you find that SD analog cable looks a bit edgy with my settings, decrease the DRC Reality setting and increase the DRC Clarity setting. You kind of have to play around with these settings to get a good picture. For SD digital cable, it's best to use a low DRC Reality setting and a high DRC Clarity setting.

hey guysm i went out and saw the a10 today at a store, looks like the set was straight out of the box, i couldnt play around, but is the difference almost night and day after calibrating these sets with the settings????

i watch alot of sd as hd is not even here in nz yet lol

also when running the x360, should i use component or VGA, on my p/j vga dominates the component cables easily for the 360

heres the specs for the kfe42a10 model i want in new zealand, can people in the states confirm i will be using the same version as you guys, minus the tuner:

http://www.sony.co.nz/wegatheatre/product.asp

heres the specs for the kfe42a10 model i want in new zealand, can people in the states confirm i will be using the same version as you guys, minus the tuner:

http://www.sony.co.nz/wegatheatre/product.asp


Here are the specs for the US version.

http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/eCS/Store/en/-/USD/SY_DisplayProductInformation-Start?CategoryName=tv_size_50%22to80%22&ProductSKU=KDFE50A10&TabName=specs&var2=

Hey guys, looking for a bit of advice.

I'm in the middle of my second week since I bought my 50a10. Overall I love it and have very few complaints.

From the first day I got the set I have noticed 2 or 3 stuck pixels, 1 purple, 2 green, and didnt give them much thought since they we hardly noticeable and off to lower left side of the screen (I had noticed them initially when I was up close to the tv while switching a DVD.)

However there is another green stuck pixel almost in the dead center of the screen. I have been watching a lot of DVD's at normal viewing distance the past few days and that is when I noticed it. This pixel is brighter than the other stuck pixels and really is starting to get on my nerves. As much as I try not to think about it like the other 3 stuck pixels I have, I see it quite often. (likely because of its position and the intensity of the color compared to the other stuck pixels) Also yesterday I got up close to the screen and varied between some static images that were light and dark and was able to see another 6 or so stuck pixels, (mostly green, which I thought was wierd, since most of the stuck pixels on my unit are green) These arent as bad as the bright one in the center though, as they are dim and do not stick out nearly as bad.

So here's my question. I know that a certain amount of stuck/dead pixels are considered "OK" by the manufacturer, but since I am within my 30 days, should I look at exchanging it for another? I am leaning towards doing so, but I am also worried about getting a set that is worse or has other issues. Do most of you have at least some stuck pixels on your unit? Is it to be expected or am I nitpicking? Also is it odd to have 12 or so stuck pixels almost all the same color?

Thanks for your time.

I have the 42" version... nothing stuck yet... Thank God.... if it's in the 30 days then return it...

I won't receive my A10 until Saturday so I really can't comment on if it should be expected or not but if its that noticeable to you then I would exchange it for a different one. Especially since you are still within the 30-day return period. I believe anytime you pay money for a product that you would deem somewhat expensive you should be 99% satisfied with that product's performance.

Also unlike the SXRD thread, there don't seem to be many defective sets of this model out there so the chances of you getting another bad set are pretty slim.

hey guysm i went out and saw the a10 today at a store, looks like the set was straight out of the box, i couldnt play around, but is the difference almost night and day after calibrating these sets with the settings????

i watch alot of sd as hd is not even here in nz yet lol

also when running the x360, should i use component or VGA, on my p/j vga dominates the component cables easily for the 360

The Canadian version is the same KFE50A10 as in New Zealand, I just bought one a month ago and I'm very impressed and happy with my purchase.

The in-store display settings are crap. Following the easy advice in the Grand Wega Tweaks thread will go a long way. The difference is night and day. SD still looks bad, but it is very watchable and the SD on my Tv looks better than on my dad's Panny DLP and a friends RCA RP-CRT. IMO opinion, the TV is still worth it for just SD, XBox360, and DVDs.

Can't give you an opinion on the XBox cabling. I won't be getting mine until next week.

Hey guys, looking for a bit of advice.

I'm in the middle of my second week since I bought my 50a10. Overall I love it and have very few complaints.

From the first day I got the set I have noticed 2 or 3 stuck pixels, 1 purple, 2 green, and didnt give them much thought since they we hardly noticeable and off to lower left side of the screen (I had noticed them initially when I was up close to the tv while switching a DVD.)

However there is another green stuck pixel almost in the dead center of the screen. I have been watching a lot of DVD's at normal viewing distance the past few days and that is when I noticed it. This pixel is brighter than the other stuck pixels and really is starting to get on my nerves. As much as I try not to think about it like the other 3 stuck pixels I have, I see it quite often. (likely because of its position and the intensity of the color compared to the other stuck pixels) Also yesterday I got up close to the screen and varied between some static images that were light and dark and was able to see another 6 or so stuck pixels, (mostly green, which I thought was wierd, since most of the stuck pixels on my unit are green) These arent as bad as the bright one in the center though, as they are dim and do not stick out nearly as bad.

So here's my question. I know that a certain amount of stuck/dead pixels are considered "OK" by the manufacturer, but since I am within my 30 days, should I look at exchanging it for another? I am leaning towards doing so, but I am also worried about getting a set that is worse or has other issues. Do most of you have at least some stuck pixels on your unit? Is it to be expected or am I nitpicking? Also is it odd to have 12 or so stuck pixels almost all the same color?

Thanks for your time.
Exchange it. I have a 50" and I haven't found a single bad pixel.

I agree with Mr. Pibb and StlRamsFan - return the set before the 30 day exchange period expires. I also have the 50A10 and have no bad pixels, either. If you wait past the return period, Sony's warranty won't cover stuck pixels, unless they cover a certain percentage of the screen (not sure how much), so I don't think 12 bad pixels will qualify as a defective screen.

The in-store display settings are crap. Following the easy advice in the Grand Wega Tweaks thread will go a long way. The difference is night and day. SD still looks bad, but it is very watchable and the SD on my Tv looks better than on my dad's Panny DLP and a friends RCA RP-CRT. IMO opinion, the TV is still worth it for just SD, XBox360, and DVDs.

I agree with Ogami. The difference is night and day. The Vivid setting will actually make some people nauseous, it did my wife the first night. I tweaked mine very close to Dark Rain's settings and man what a difference. I also have another set of settings for the same inputs for daytime viewing in which the room has much more light.

Grateful- Did you post those settings in the Tweeks thread? I haven't been reading it very much lately because it has been pretty quiet, but I would like to know the settings for daytime viewing. I'm not real happy with my Standard or Vivid settings, but am using DarkRain's custom settings.

Thanks

Mel

Yea i would probably return it as well levellie... I just returned a 42" a10 that had a pinkish hue on the lower left third of the screen that was evident with any off white or gray backrounds. My new set seems fine so far(only had it 2 days though).

My only complaint with these new tv's is the SSE, but i feel like after a couple of weeks with the tv i am slowly getting used to it.

heres the specs for the kfe42a10 model i want in new zealand, can people in the states confirm i will be using the same version as you guys, minus the tuner]

godisi, your model number and specs seem identical to the version we have here in Canada. From my experience, the only major differences between my unit and those in the States seems to be the digital tuner; i.e. my unit picks up analog cable only on the tuner; I have a separate Set top box for the HD and digital SD content. I have noted that there are some Wega Gate menu differences as well, particularly when it comes to displaying signal resolution and channel info with the digital tuner, but these are quite minor. Even the "red push" fix and "lamp time counter menu" described in the tweaks thread for this unit in the AVS forum are identical.

Not having an htpc hooked into my 42a10 how can one best identify stuck or dead pixels? I haven't noticed any from 8' to 13' during normal viewing, but I'd like to know my TV better. Does pausing a DVD on a mainly light scene work? Or is there a better method or trick that works best? All answers appreciated...

cheers so much guys, been a real help, we do seem to get alot of canadian gear in new zealand, and thats a reat thing,at least now pal is stepping up and going into the HD market, even though HD isnt out yet lol.

Umm main viewing till hd arrives for my new set will be: ps/2, x360, PC, and dvd's, just wondering whether i'll be impresses or not?

Im thinking whether to go oppo upconvert dvd for my dvd's or just use the htpc?

thanks in reply

Alright guys! Just to end on this final note, it happen my first purchase was a defect product :) The store manager convinced me to keep it cause when i went to the store with the TV, it was working fine and i stayed there watching it for like 15mins.

I was upset and embarassed to say the least. Once i got home, i decided to watch the Incredible movie and after about 50mins of watching it, i was losing my progressive signal. Same goes for my xbox360 which was losing the HD signal every minute or so. Went back to the store next day, explained it to the manager again, finally agrees to exchange it for a brand new one, which i had to go pick up at their warehouse but it was worth it. Set it up once i got home and watch DVDs and played my 360 all night long without a hitch :D I knew something was wrong at first but now it rocks. HD/DVD picture looks fantastic with all the tweaks reported in this thread. SD analog also looks good as i wasn't expecting alot from it but im glad it is very watchable. Thats it for me and hopefully everything will stay that way ^^



From a happy KFE42A10 owner ^^

Anyone own the Harmony 880 remote?
I just ordered one to replace my old Sony RM-AV3000 to hopefully simplify things.

My main Q is those with the 880 does have discrete input codes for all the inputs that you can use in your activities? and also does the remote send them at the correct time?

With my AV3000 I had to insert pauses when the TV was powering on because the TV would not change unputs directly after being turned on. Don't know if this is a AV3000 specific problem or if it will occur with the 880 also.

Anyone own the Harmony 880 remote?
I just ordered one to replace my old Sony RM-AV3000 to hopefully simplify things.

My main Q is those with the 880 does have discrete input codes for all the inputs that you can use in your activities? and also does the remote send them at the correct time?

With my AV3000 I had to insert pauses when the TV was powering on because the TV would not change unputs directly after being turned on. Don't know if this is a AV3000 specific problem or if it will occur with the 880 also.

I have a Harmony 676 and it knows how to operate this TV perfectly. It knows when to put in pauses, and it knows discrete on/off codes and discrete input selection codes. If it does have problems, you can easily troubleshoot to fix. They are really great remotes, definitely worth the extra money.

I have a Harmony 676 and it knows how to operate this TV perfectly. It knows when to put in pauses, and it knows discrete on/off codes and discrete input selection codes. If it does have problems, you can easily troubleshoot to fix. They are really great remotes, definitely worth the extra money.

I also have a 676 and it's awesome.

Tweek the responce time

Anyone own the Harmony 880 remote?
I just ordered one to replace my old Sony RM-AV3000 to hopefully simplify things.

My main Q is those with the 880 does have discrete input codes for all the inputs that you can use in your activities? and also does the remote send them at the correct time?

With my AV3000 I had to insert pauses when the TV was powering on because the TV would not change unputs directly after being turned on. Don't know if this is a AV3000 specific problem or if it will occur with the 880 also.

I have an 880 and yes, it does do discrete input selection. Mine works beautifically with all the usual suspects, HT receiver, DVD, cable box, PC. Nice remote but watch the lcd screen and if it's way faded return for a different one. Mine was pretty bad but new one is great.

thanks for all the input guys. cannot wait to receive this remote tomorrow

Grateful- Did you post those settings in the Tweeks thread? I haven't been reading it very much lately because it has been pretty quiet, but I would like to know the settings for daytime viewing. I'm not real happy with my Standard or Vivid settings, but am using DarkRain's custom settings.

Thanks

Mel

Hey Mel, I haven't yet but I'll try to get them over there in the next day or two. It 's going to depend a lot on the ambient light in your room. Vivid is all but unwatchable to us but I bet there are some of these sets sold and are never changed from Vivid.
Grateful11

Hey Mel, I haven't yet but I'll try to get them over there in the next day or two. It 's going to depend a lot on the ambient light in your room. Vivid is all but unwatchable to us but I bet there are some of these sets sold and are never changed from Vivid.
Grateful11

Thanks. I'm just playing with the settings and I would like to start at a baseline that someone else is trying. My vivid and standard settings seem to look less lifelike and am wonering if I have something set wrong. Like I said, I usually use DarkRain's custom settings, but would like to give my family a few options when I am not home.

Does anyone know when the new line of these will be coming out. I was planning on buying the 42" with the next few weeks, but I think I heard the new ones were coming out in June or July.

Man, I'm totally new to this and I thought I was set on getting a plasma but the whole burn-in/image retention issues are scaring me off.

What do I all need to get one of these up and running?? I have DTV and will be purchasing the HDTV receiver for that. I plan on using an HDMI cable for my DTV feed and component cables for my DVD player which is a few years old.

Is there anything I'm missing to enhance my viewing pleasure? I'm mainly concerned with getting the HD channels thru DTV and I'm assuming component cables will be plenty for my DVD player.

How easy is it to switch between custom settings on this tv? Do you change settings when going from a HD channel to a SD channel??

Sorry for all the questions, but this thread is huge..... happy viewing to all!!

Does anyone know when the new line of these will be coming out. I was planning on buying the 42" with the next few weeks, but I think I heard the new ones were coming out in June or July.

June and July are about right. Sony are dropping the 42" model and replacing it with a 46" one.

Man, I'm totally new to this and I thought I was set on getting a plasma but the whole burn-in/image retention issues are scaring me off.

What do I all need to get one of these up and running?? I have DTV and will be purchasing the HDTV receiver for that. I plan on using an HDMI cable for my DTV feed and component cables for my DVD player which is a few years old.

Is there anything I'm missing to enhance my viewing pleasure? I'm mainly concerned with getting the HD channels thru DTV and I'm assuming component cables will be plenty for my DVD player.

How easy is it to switch between custom settings on this tv? Do you change settings when going from a HD channel to a SD channel??

Sorry for all the questions, but this thread is huge..... happy viewing to all!!

You'll need an HDMI cable for the for the DTV feed if going that route, don't buy one of
those $150 Monster cables it isn't necessary.

I'm using component for both my DVD and my HD STB cable box and it's fine.

To switch between settings it is a simple matter of pressing a button called "Picture"
and it switches between Vivid, Standard and Custom. I don't change when going from
HD to SD, I change when the lighting in my room changes, unless a channel just
doesn't seem quite right I may check to see what the other settings look like. Happy
viewing!

BTW: One of the main reasons I didn't get a Plasma was the glossy screens seem to
reflect every light in showrooms.

I have DTV and will be purchasing the HDTV receiver for that. I plan on using an HDMI cable for my DTV feed and component cables for my DVD player which is a few years old.


If your DTV feed is from an antenna, you don't need the HDTV receiver.

If your DTV feed is from an antenna, you don't need the HDTV receiver.

This is true, I guess I was assuming he was going with Digital Cable. I have my rooftop
antenna hooked up directly to my 50A10. I don't use it as much anymore since getting
my STB HD box.

His post was unclear about how he was receiving his DTV feed (OTA or Cable). In any event, if he does have Digital Cable, he only needs the HD compliant STB from his cable company. Not sure if he needs to buy one or not, since mine provides one for a monthly fee. I seldom use my STB since my cable company doesn't have local stations in HD yet.

I haven't read this thread in months but this may be too good to pass up. Ad in local paper and S***s online list this same price. :)

Can someone confirm that the following works with the set:

connecting an external audio source (mp3 player as an example) into the 3,5mm plug and running the signal thru the set to your amp (connected to the rca)

I would be forever grateful if someone would be willing to try this out. :)

I am having trouble with the audio out on my A10. My cable box is connected to my receiver so I get my digital audio. I also have an HDMI input to the TV to recieve digital video. The problem is that when I change the input to play my PS2, I get no audio, even though the TV is connected to my receiver via audio out. My PS2 is connected to the TV via component and normal RCA audio in. So basically I can't seem to get the audio out to function and I only get PS2 audio through the TV's speaker and not my surround sound speakers. Any thoughts? Thanks!
E

I am having trouble with the audio out on my A10. My cable box is connected to my receiver so I get my digital audio. I also have an HDMI input to the TV to recieve digital video. The problem is that when I change the input to play my PS2, I get no audio, even though the TV is connected to my receiver via audio out. My PS2 is connected to the TV via component and normal RCA audio in. So basically I can't seem to get the audio out to function and I only get PS2 audio through the TV's speaker and not my surround sound speakers. Any thoughts? Thanks!
E

If you are using component cables and you have the rca audio plugs connected to your tv what are you connecting to your receiver? Is there an optical out on the component cables that you are using to connect your ps2 to your receiver? If not, I don't understand how you have audio going to your tv and receiver at the same time from your ps2. The audio that you have coming from your cable box to the receiver will take care of inputs being fed into the cable box not the tv. So basically, it sounds like you either need to connect your ps2 cables to your cable box or plug the rca audio connectors from your ps2 directly into your receiver

I am having trouble with the audio out on my A10. My cable box is connected to my receiver so I get my digital audio. I also have an HDMI input to the TV to recieve digital video. The problem is that when I change the input to play my PS2, I get no audio, even though the TV is connected to my receiver via audio out. My PS2 is connected to the TV via component and normal RCA audio in. So basically I can't seem to get the audio out to function and I only get PS2 audio through the TV's speaker and not my surround sound speakers. Any thoughts? Thanks!
E

Have you verified that the TV speakers are set to "OFF". Per the manual, the audio out jacks are not active unless this is done.

What type of cloth should be used to dust the screen of the a10 (42a10)? Is there a special cleaning/dusting kit that is available for purchase for it, or can a normal cotton cloth be used?

I use a microfiber towel

Here are some pictures of a distortion I've been seeing on this unit maybe once out of two weeks. I started to search this thread for about 35 pages and gave up on trying to find this issue reproduced. Does anyone know what would cause this? I plan on getting this unit replaced, but I must admit my curiosity about what caused this issue.

Note the Menu looks okay, there are just diagnal slashes through the screen and everything looks as though the colors are off on the color wheel or something.

Any ideas? Or any links to posts on this monstrous thread about this particular issue? Searching for Distortion wasn't entirely helpful lol.

Well crap, I can't post web addresses until I post 5 times.

Hurry up and make 3 more posts I wanna see pics :p

I need some help with back lighting for these sets, anyone done anything of the sort?im thinking of going ideallume 6500k light, and mounting to back of 42a10

i went the cheapie route to backlighting....i simply grabbed a small clamp light and put in a 40 watt daylight bulb....the clamp attaches nicely to the back of the TV stand.works quite well until i get the lumilite.

Sorry guys

For the spam

Had to make it to 5 posts :(

http://www.slantedvision.com/images/tv/

Here's the distortion I was describing. As I said, this only happens maybe once or twice when I turn on the TV, shut it off for 3-4 minutes and turn it on and it's fine.

http://www.slantedvision.com/images/tv/

Here's the distortion I was describing. As I said, this only happens maybe once or twice when I turn on the TV, shut it off for 3-4 minutes and turn it on and it's fine.

I've never seen that on mine. Take it back and get another one. This problem may get more severe over time.

Yeah, I kinda figured this wasn't "normal" operation, and yeah it's getting sent back. I'm just posting for curiosity's sake to see if this is something that's known about this unit, cause and stuff. I mean with the symptoms, someone with a bit more experience than I do could say "Well since the menu's look okay, problem has to exist in the *insert technical name* here"

I haven't seen this problem reported before. Although, I haven't went through this entire thread. But this definetly isn't normal. I heard that sometimes if you have your speakers to close or some type of magnet it could case major problems with your tv. So if you have your speakers too close maybe trying to move away from your set a little bit. You should still return the set to the store but just a little experiment to see if it really affects anything.

I have question of my own now. I just got my new set today and the first time I hit the power button power/standby button was flashing red. So I read the manual and this meant the bulb was not securely attached. So when I opened up the lamp door it was indeed not properly attached but now I'm having problems pusing the lamp back in properly. Does anybody know how much force it takes to push a bulb into one of these sets. Thus far, I have moved the tv a couple of inches across the tv stand trying to replace the bulb.

http://www.slantedvision.com/images/tv/

Here's the distortion I was describing. As I said, this only happens maybe once or twice when I turn on the TV, shut it off for 3-4 minutes and turn it on and it's fine.

That looks like some kind of psychedelic acid trip or something.

That looks like some kind of psychedelic acid trip or something.

Did you hear about the piano green SXRD with a purple haze bezel and a tye dye stand - Retro SF Haight Ashburry Edition or perhaps they will house the gen one refurbs.

Westa6969 posted this comment on another thread about the SXRD. Maybe Sony is making a retro Haight Ashbury Edition of the A10, too!

Can someone confirm that the following works with the set:

connecting an external audio source (mp3 player as an example) into the 3,5mm plug and running the signal thru the set to your amp (connected to the rca)

I would be forever grateful if someone would be willing to try this out. :)


Sorry for bothering yoiu like this but would neet to know as soon as possible :)

I haven't read this thread in months but this may be too good to pass up. Ad in local paper and S***s online list this same price. :)


Where are you can you say your zipcode maybe?

do you mean sears or was it edited?
How long was that sale for?

Has anyone had a problem with waves or lines moving from the bottom right to the top left, it does it on hd cable box and dvd player using component inputs.

Whooops I messed up when I replyed to the earlier post mentioning the sale I thought he was talking about the 50 onch I didnt read right in the subject he was referring to the 42 :o


So anyone know any good current deals for the 50"?

Has anyone had a problem with waves or lines moving from the bottom right to the top left, it does it on hd cable box and dvd player using component inputs.

I had a problem with a ground loop. This caused a line to slowly move from the bottom to the top. Changed the wiring around and got rid of it.

[QUOTEDeleted.[/QUOTE]

The only problem with the older A10 units is that the TV will fail to turn on or off after an extended period of time. All that is required to fix it is to unplug the TV for about a minute, and then plug it back in and turn it on. My A10, with a July 2005 buld date, froze on me about 2 months ago and I couldn't change inputs or turn it off. Unplugging it fixed it.

You can get the firmware updated on the A10 via this link if you have an older unit:

http://www.updatemytv.com/

Hi,
I just received my 50 inch -- defective, with a blue/black blotch, but that's not my problem right now.

I've been testing different movies with my Panasonic DVD player and 99% of the movies that were in a 2.35 widecreen ratio showed the following problem: the last row of pixels of the top and bottom of the widescreen (just before the black bars) seemed to be white, or inverted.

I'm plugged in with Monster component wires. I tried 480i and 480p, and all of the TV's functions.

Does anyone have this problem? And, how do you fix it?

Hi,
I just received my 50 inch -- defective, with a blue/black blotch, but that's not my problem right now.

I've been testing different movies with my Panasonic DVD player and 99% of the movies that were in a 2.35 widecreen ratio showed the following problem: the last row of pixels of the top and bottom of the widescreen (just before the black bars) seemed to be white, or inverted.

I'm plugged in with Monster component wires. I tried 480i and 480p, and all of the TV's functions.

Does anyone have this problem? And, how do you fix it?

Color blotches are caused by either a dirty light engine or the polarizers (filters).

The issue with the pixels near the black bars is still up in the air. If your DVD player has poor Y/C delay this could be the effect of it. The reason I believe this is the problem is because I upgraded to an upconverting player and this same issue I was having appears to have went away.

My best advice would be to swap the TV out for another one and invest in an upconverting DVD player. And be sure to use the HDMI connection with the DVD player to take advantage of the higher quality signal.

Color blotches are caused by either a dirty light engine or the polarizers (filters).

The issue with the pixels near the black bars is still up in the air. If your DVD player has poor Y/C delay this could be the effect of it. The reason I believe this is the problem is because I upgraded to an upconverting player and this same issue I was having appears to have went away.

My best advice would be to swap the TV out for another one and invest in an upconverting DVD player. And be sure to use the HDMI connection with the DVD player to take advantage of the higher quality signal.

...I am swaping for a new TV this week for sure.
As for the upconversion, I'll wait for the HD DVD players to drop their price, as they will do a better jop at upconverting (or so I've heard).

Overall I'm satisfied with the TV, but I notice some ghosting or semi-transparent doubling of the edges (around objects, people, lines, etc). I've tried the "shift image" feature which doesn't do anything noticeable to fix this. Some tell me it's edge enhancement from some discs, but almost everything I play does this. ...........any thoughts?

Well, I exchanged my 50a10 because of the stuck pixels that were really bothersome at normal viewing distance. (see my previous post a few pages back)

The unit I received as a replacement had no stuck/dead pixels but had a pretty bad discoloration in the upper left hand corner of the screen. It was noticeable quite often specifically when watching dvd's or other dark movies. I also exchanged this one and I am now on my 3rd unit.

This one also has the discoloration in the upper left hand corner. When the screen is grey or offwhite the whole corner is darker and greenish in color compared to the whole other screen (including the other corners) When the screen is black or close to black then the corner appears "brighter" and bluish in tint. Whereas the rest of the screen is black all around.

Should I return this unit as well. Am I just extremely unlucky in terms of getting defective units or is this something I have to live with? I have 2 weeks left on my 30 days and need to decide what to do and to be honest I have no clue at this point. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Well, I exchanged my 50a10 because of the stuck pixels that were really bothersome at normal viewing distance. (see my previous post a few pages back)

The unit I received as a replacement had no stuck/dead pixels but had a pretty bad discoloration in the upper left hand corner of the screen. It was noticeable quite often specifically when watching dvd's or other dark movies. I also exchanged this one and I am now on my 3rd unit.

This one also has the discoloration in the upper left hand corner. When the screen is grey or offwhite the whole corner is darker and greenish in color compared to the whole other screen (including the other corners) When the screen is black or close to black then the corner appears "brighter" and bluish in tint. Whereas the rest of the screen is black all around.

Should I return this unit as well. Am I just extremely unlucky in terms of getting defective units or is this something I have to live with? I have 2 weeks left on my 30 days and need to decide what to do and to be honest I have no clue at this point. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

You are paying over 2000.00$ for this. My opinion is: if the image is not PERFECT, return it, return it, return it, until you are satisfied 100%. That's like buying a toaster and getting your bread toasted just on one side. ;-)
:(

I am using basic cable... Adelphia in Southern Calif. Prior to owning the 42a10, I was able to receive 80 analog channels. When the 42A10 was first fired up the channel scanning picked up those 80 analog channels in addition to 93 digital channels... 5 of which are HDTV (ABC, CBS, NBS, FOX & KCET).

The NSTC tuner picked up the 80 analog channels (channels are displayed w/ NSTC)
The ASTC tuner picked up 93-5=88 digital channels (channels are displayed w/ 480i)
The QAM tuner picked up 5 HDTV channels (channels displayed w/ 780p or 1080i)

I am very happy with the PQ, but I am uncertain if switching to digital cable would improve PQ at all? Would the 480i PQ improve? Would the NSTC or HDTV PQ improve? I don't want to spend an extra $20/mo. for no improvement. :eek:

Thanks in advance.

You are paying over 2000.00$ for this. My opinion is: if the image is not PERFECT, return it, return it, return it, until you are satisfied 100%. That's like buying a toaster and getting your bread toasted just on one side. ;-)
:(

I'm not sure if he is going to be able to get a perfect one but he should definitely be able to
get one without discoloration. With me 4 times was the charm. With mine it was 1st was
dead pixels, 2nd was huge purple spot, 3rd had the extra bright lines with 2.35:1 OAR
(probably could have kept that one if I known they all had it) and the 4th is just right so
far, Mar. 06 build date.

Hello,

I purchased my Sony KDF-E50A10 about two months ago, after reading the posts here for a few days, and I love it! Thanks everyone!

I've run into a bit of an annoying problem though.

I've got my HTPC (Radeon 9600 DVI) hooked up to the HDMI port with a Monster cable (should've went with a cheapie, I know, but it's pretty so the bucks are totally wasted). Picture looks fine with Windows XP MCE 2005, running in slightly smaller than 1280x720 resolution. DivX, Oblivion, Godfather all run beautifully. OK, I could use a better video card.

Recently I've hit a patch of spyware, SpyQuake derivative, which I'm in the process of clearing out. My problem is, everytime I try to get into Windows SAFE MODE, I get an unviewable picture. Looks like the Sony KDF-E50A10 is trying to figure out what resolution it should be at, but not able to figure it out. I should mention that this is the same thing I get all the time when the PC is booting. I have no viewable picture during the POST or if I hit F8. The first discernable image is the Windows startup splash screen with the moving bar at the bottom. Last time I had to do all this I had to pull out a monitor to hook up while fixing all this... but its a real pain to have to go back there and mess with all the cables, not to mention moving a monitor back and forth......

Is it possible to view all the stuff before the OS loads? Like the BIOS and POST and most importantly Safe Mode? Is this a problem with my TV, video card, cable? Or perhaps this would work if I was using VGA to VGA or Composite or S-Video.... Do the firmware updates that have been mentioned for the TV affect this? I haven't checked to see what rev I have.

Thanks for all the great info thus far.

Hello,

I purchased my Sony KDF-E50A10 about two months ago, after reading the posts here for a few days, and I love it! Thanks everyone!

I've run into a bit of an annoying problem though.

I've got my HTPC (Radeon 9600 DVI) hooked up to the HDMI port with a Monster cable (should've went with a cheapie, I know, but it's pretty so the bucks are totally wasted). Picture looks fine with Windows XP MCE 2005, running in slightly smaller than 1280x720 resolution. DivX, Oblivion, Godfather all run beautifully. OK, I could use a better video card.

Recently I've hit a patch of spyware, SpyQuake derivative, which I'm in the process of clearing out. My problem is, everytime I try to get into Windows SAFE MODE, I get an unviewable picture. Looks like the Sony KDF-E50A10 is trying to figure out what resolution it should be at, but not able to figure it out. I should mention that this is the same thing I get all the time when the PC is booting. I have no viewable picture during the POST or if I hit F8. The first discernable image is the Windows startup splash screen with the moving bar at the bottom. Last time I had to do all this I had to pull out a monitor to hook up while fixing all this... but its a real pain to have to go back there and mess with all the cables, not to mention moving a monitor back and forth......

Is it possible to view all the stuff before the OS loads? Like the BIOS and POST and most importantly Safe Mode? Is this a problem with my TV, video card, cable? Or perhaps this would work if I was using VGA to VGA or Composite or S-Video.... Do the firmware updates that have been mentioned for the TV affect this? I haven't checked to see what rev I have.

Thanks for all the great info thus far.

I would use the VGA input on the TV. It seems to handle signals with various timings better through the HDMI input. Even if it is receiving a non-standard signal it still seems to be able to at least show it, even if it doesn't fit the screen properly.

From my experience, you will get much better results using the VGA cable from an HTPC. The TV just insists on "processing" everything that comes in through the HDMI cable. See my signature for Powerstrip instructions...

I just purchased this TV (50A10) this weekend and I think I have near perfect timings set up through my 6600GT using the VGA PC input. First, you'll need to have powerstrip installed. If you aren't familiar with Powerstrip check out Karnis's custom resolution guide in the HTPC section, it's stickied on top.

For the desktop, this timing gives me 1:1 pixel mapping and it just fits the screen. Paste this timing into the custom resolution screen to set it up (IMPORTANT: copy the ENTIRE section between the lines --------- and use the paste button on the add new resolution screen):

---------------------------------------------------------------------
PowerStrip timing parameters:
1232x696=1232,112,128,192,696,45,5,50,79392,2050

Generic timing details for 1232x696:
HFP=112 HSW=128 HBP=192 kHz=48 VFP=45 VSW=5 VBP=50 Hz=60

VESA detailed timing details:
PClk=79.39 H.Active=1232 H.Blank=432 H.Offset=96 HSW=128 V.Active=696 V.Blank=100 V.Offset=45 VSW=5

Linux modeline parameters:
"1232x696" 79.392 1232 1344 1472 1664 696 741 746 796 -hsync +vsync
---------------------------------------------------------------------

And I use this resolution for movies. It is based off of the same timing parameters and allows you to scale the vertical resolution of the movie exactly by 1.5. It also matches the resolution of the TV exactly with some overscan and has a refresh rate of 59.94hz.

----------------------------------------------------------------------
PowerStrip timing parameters:
1280x720=1280,80,128,176,720,27,5,44,79392,2050

Generic timing details for 1280x720:
HFP=80 HSW=128 HBP=176 kHz=48 VFP=27 VSW=5 VBP=44 Hz=60

VESA detailed timing details:
PClk=79.39 H.Active=1280 H.Blank=384 H.Offset=64 HSW=128 V.Active=720 V.Blank=76 V.Offset=27 VSW=5

Linux modeline parameters:
"1280x720" 79.392 1280 1360 1488 1664 720 747 752 796 -hsync +vsync
---------------------------------------------------------------------

With these timings I can use the "zoom" mode and achieve 1:1 pixel mapping. I noticed that if it looks like the pixels are close but don't match exactly you may have to adjust the "Phase" setting to line it up. My TV "auto adjusted" incorrectly the first time but hit it right when I made it readjust again.

The picture is beautiful. I'm still trying to look past the SSE, but I think I just have to get used to that part of it.

Additional info: to paste in the custom timing....
Right click the Powerstrip tray icon, choose "display profiles" then "configure"
Click the "advanced timing options..." button
Click the "Custom resolutions..." button
Click the "paste timings from clipboard" button (small icon of clipboard with a sheet of paper in front of it)
Click the "Add New Resolution Button"
Follow the remaining prompts and you should be good to go. :D

I must be doing something wrong. :o

So I was able to add that resolution to my custom resolutions. Then I rebooted my computer and it was still there. I must be an idiot, but I'm not sure how to select it. When I go back to the custom resolutions screen after rebooting, I can select it, but there is no way to apply the resolution. I was able to find the resolution in the windows display properties and apply it from there, but then the picture is really squished horizontally on the TV. At that point, I am unable to change to wide mode. When I push the wide button on my TV while using that resolution, nothing happens -- it just stays on full 1.

Any help would be appreciated! :) I am using a NVIDIA GeForce FX Go5200 if that matters... The computer is connected to my TV via VGA cable.

I must be doing something wrong. :o

So I was able to add that resolution to my custom resolutions. Then I rebooted my computer and it was still there. I must be an idiot, but I'm not sure how to select it. When I go back to the custom resolutions screen after rebooting, I can select it, but there is no way to apply the resolution. I was able to find the resolution in the windows display properties and apply it from there, but then the picture is really squished horizontally on the TV. At that point, I am unable to change to wide mode. When I push the wide button on my TV while using that resolution, nothing happens -- it just stays on full 1.

Any help would be appreciated! :) I am using a NVIDIA GeForce FX Go5200 if that matters... The computer is connected to my TV via VGA cable.

Check the new tutorial post I have linked in my signature. Make sure you went through each of the steps. If you are still having problems, post again in that thread and we'll see if we can figure out what is going on!

Hey all,

I appreciate the educated opinions you guys post here. I've been researching vigorously what HDTV to purchase for my family for several months (much of that research having been done on this very thread), but I am still undecided about where to buy my 42A10, and it comes down to the issue of the warranty.

I have already made the decision I'll not buy a Mack warranty. So that leaves BB, CC, H.H. Gregg, Sears or the Sony warranties.

I'm not thrilled with the Sony option, either, since it sounds like they will not cover lamps. I know this has been debated for a long time, but I am going on the worst-case scenario (that Sony would not replace a lamp).

This narrows it down to the big retailers. Have you folks had bad or good experiences with any of the big boys? We don't have a Costco in central Kentucky, so no need to bother with those stories.

I am thinking I'll want something in the neighborhood of a two- or three-year coverage, with at least one lamp replacement included.

Please share your thoughts. (The tax refund just came in and I'm itching to buy;)

Thanks,
-Matt

Hey all,

I appreciate the educated opinions you guys post here. I've been researching vigorously what HDTV to purchase for my family for several months (much of that research having been done on this very thread), but I am still undecided about where to buy my 42A10, and it comes down to the issue of the warranty.

I have already made the decision I'll not buy a Mack warranty. So that leaves BB, CC, H.H. Gregg, Sears or the Sony warranties.

I'm not thrilled with the Sony option, either, since it sounds like they will not cover lamps. I know this has been debated for a long time, but I am going on the worst-case scenario (that Sony would not replace a lamp).

This narrows it down to the big retailers. Have you folks had bad or good experiences with any of the big boys? We don't have a Costco in central Kentucky, so no need to bother with those stories.

I am thinking I'll want something in the neighborhood of a two- or three-year coverage, with at least one lamp replacement included.

Please share your thoughts. (The tax refund just came in and I'm itching to buy;)

Thanks,
-Matt

I know the Bestbuy warranty covers 1 lamp replacement, but I believe they are really very over priced. I think they charge around $400 for a 4 year warranty that starts on the day you purchase it, so it only covers 3 years past the manufact. warranty.

The Sony manufacturer's warranty covers the bulb in the first year. Buy your set with a credit card that extends the manufacturer's warranty another year. You're now up to two years at no extra cost. ;)

I bought the 5 year extended warranty from Phillips. It said it covers everything, and was a good price - $299. The store I bought the 42a10 from (hometheaterstore) offered it for sale, but phillips might offer it directly also, I'm not sure.

Hey all,

I appreciate the educated opinions you guys post here. I've been researching vigorously what HDTV to purchase for my family for several months (much of that research having been done on this very thread), but I am still undecided about where to buy my 42A10, and it comes down to the issue of the warranty.

I have already made the decision I'll not buy a Mack warranty. So that leaves BB, CC, H.H. Gregg, Sears or the Sony warranties.

I'm not thrilled with the Sony option, either, since it sounds like they will not cover lamps. I know this has been debated for a long time, but I am going on the worst-case scenario (that Sony would not replace a lamp).

This narrows it down to the big retailers. Have you folks had bad or good experiences with any of the big boys? We don't have a Costco in central Kentucky, so no need to bother with those stories.

I am thinking I'll want something in the neighborhood of a two- or three-year coverage, with at least one lamp replacement included.

Please share your thoughts. (The tax refund just came in and I'm itching to buy;)

Thanks,
-Matt

Circuit City also replaces only one lamp. I opted not to purchase the EW. They called
the other day offering me a warranty for $130 something/year. The guy tells me that
the lamp alone will cost me $400-600. That's when I said no thanks, sounded as if
he was in a foreign country, anyone know if CC has farmed out their call center jobs?

Interesting.

I've never bought an extended warranty on anything before, so I'd certainly be treading in uncharted waters if I were to buy one. What I'm worried about are dead pixels or the colored spots some people have discussed. Just what are the terms of the standard manufacturer's warranty on the 42a10?

Circuit City also replaces only one lamp. I opted not to purchase the EW. They called
the other day offering me a warranty for $130 something/year. The guy tells me that
the lamp alone will cost me $400-600. That's when I said no thanks, sounded as if
he was in a foreign country, anyone know if CC has farmed out their call center jobs?

That sounds pretty feasible. I didn't know that was an option. I guess I'd need to call my credit card companies and see if they offer that.

Thanks, Jon. J!

The Sony manufacturer's warranty covers the bulb in the first year. Buy your set with a credit card that extends the manufacturer's warranty another year. You're now up to two years at no extra cost. ;)

The Sears guy told me that if even one pixel goes out they will replace the set.
Multiple bulbs are included, but the price is high. 400 for three years. Have to see
if it's all true when a problem comes up.

The Sears guy told me that if even one pixel goes out they will replace the set.
Multiple bulbs are included, but the price is high. 400 for three years. Have to see
if it's all true when a problem comes up.Hope you got that in writing. "Sears guys" have a way of coming and going..... ;)

I hope so too. Is there anyone here who had to use the Sears warranty

Hey Guys,

Just had my Sony KDF 50A10 delivered. Tried changing the red push... I like the 0002 setting vs. the others on here. Thanks Dark Rain... anyway i was wondering about grainy looking text on busy screens such as ESPN news. Text appears to be blurry at times any suggestions (can i use the clarity and reality options under the DRC menu? Any suggestions?

I changed the settings on my computer yesterday w/ power strip to fill the entire screen and everything was working OK. Then this morning I turn on the TV on the PC input and every 10 seconds it flashes on the top left corner of the screen with "Video 7 PC." Does anyone know how to make this stop?

I changed the settings on my computer yesterday w/ power strip to fill the entire screen and everything was working OK. Then this morning I turn on the TV on the PC input and every 10 seconds it flashes on the top left corner of the screen with "Video 7 PC." Does anyone know how to make this stop?

Others (including myself) have seen this before. It seems to be caused by some sensitivity in the TV to very slight ground loop interference. Turning the TV off and unplugging it for a few minutes will temporarily fix it. The permanent solution is to ground all lines going in/out of the TV. My antenna input was the culprit on mine, and since I have an HD DirecTV receiver I don't really need to use the antenna anyway so I was able to just disconnect it.

Just returned my KDF-E42A10 and got the 50A10. My dealer did the software upgrade that was listed at Update My TV webpage. Haven't done the red push fix yet.

Others (including myself) have seen this before. It seems to be caused by some sensitivity in the TV to very slight ground loop interference. Turning the TV off and unplugging it for a few minutes will temporarily fix it. The permanent solution is to ground all lines going in/out of the TV. My antenna input was the culprit on mine, and since I have an HD DirecTV receiver I don't really need to use the antenna anyway so I was able to just disconnect it.

Thanks for the info. I'll certainly look into that. It only seems to do it for 10 or 15 mins after I first turn on the TV then it goes away so it's not a huge deal, but can be annoying...

Just bought my 42A10 last night! It fits inside of a 2006 Escape incase anybody wondered.
CC - $1618.**. (web price honored in store).

Hooked up to PC:
ATi 9600XT
ATi HD tuner
Turntle Beach optical out

I fought with the video all last night. It's apparent that DVI to HDMI wont show proper 1:1. So, I'll do the VGA tonight with power strip.

I found out that "Auto Programing" always come on when the TV is turned on - it will until you let it run at least once. (I never RTFM).

Now I just need to find out why OTAHD drops frames on 1080i (and only 1080i). I may need to OC the video card.

Then I still need to run DVD Essentials to tune it up.

But so far I'm happy.

I got the 42A10 5 days ago and I just love it. I have Cox digital cable with a Motorola 6412 DVR connect via component to the TV. Not all of our local channels broadcast in HD so I end up watching a lot of SD television, but I find the picture coming from the DVR to be not very good. If I just watch via the coax input it looks fine. Anyone have any suggestions? Right now I have the composite cables going into my VCR so I can copy shows to VHS if I need to (mostly for family members) and the 6412 doesn't have a coax output.

I got the 42A10 5 days ago and I just love it. I have Cox digital cable with a Motorola 6412 DVR connect via component to the TV. Not all of our local channels broadcast in HD so I end up watching a lot of SD television, but I find the picture coming from the DVR to be not very good. If I just watch via the coax input it looks fine. Anyone have any suggestions? Right now I have the composite cables going into my VCR so I can copy shows to VHS if I need to (mostly for family members) and the 6412 doesn't have a coax output.

I have essentially the same setup as you with the same results. I have a DVI/HDMI cable to the tv from the box, rather than component. I also had the cable tech out here today to rewire the entire house (from the junction in the backyard to the house, new splitters, etc.) because I thought it was my signal. Unfortunately, the PQ didn't improve all that much. Try playing around with the settings on the cable box such as 720p out of component, 480i on/off, etc. Let us know if you get a better PQ. Also, I think Dark Rain posted some settings for the Motorola cable box in the Grand Wega Tweeks thread. Bottom line, I think the cable box does not provide a quality signal.

Well, with the composite, through the VCR, it looks pretty good in SD.

Just bought my 42A10 last night! It fits inside of a 2006 Escape incase anybody wondered.
CC - $1618.**. (web price honored in store).

Hooked up to PC:
ATi 9600XT
ATi HD tuner
Turntle Beach optical out

I fought with the video all last night. It's apparent that DVI to HDMI wont show proper 1:1. So, I'll do the VGA tonight with power strip.

I found out that "Auto Programing" always come on when the TV is turned on - it will until you let it run at least once. (I never RTFM).

Now I just need to find out why OTAHD drops frames on 1080i (and only 1080i). I may need to OC the video card.

Then I still need to run DVD Essentials to tune it up.

But so far I'm happy.

Translation, please?


What happened to the good old days when you just plugged in the TV, turned it on, and sat back?

Is all of this (your post) due to using your PC with the TV as opposed to just using the Sony just as a TV? (note: the video card reference)

For those of us yet to purchase any of the Sony's discussed here, it's enough to make us ask if it's all worth it. It seems like the threads have gone from new owners doing a few adjustments to requring a diploma from ITT just to watch the TV. With all due respect to those of you who REALLY know your technical stuff, am I overreacting to all the chat about the unending tweaks that seem to be necessary with these Sonys?

I have essentially the same setup as you with the same results. I have a DVI/HDMI cable to the tv from the box, rather than component. I also had the cable tech out here today to rewire the entire house (from the junction in the backyard to the house, new splitters, etc.) because I thought it was my signal. Unfortunately, the PQ didn't improve all that much. Try playing around with the settings on the cable box such as 720p out of component, 480i on/off, etc. Let us know if you get a better PQ. Also, I think Dark Rain posted some settings for the Motorola cable box in the Grand Wega Tweeks thread. Bottom line, I think the cable box does not provide a quality signal.

For the 6412, make sure you're using 1080i output for HD and 480i for SD. DO NOT let this cable box scale and de-interlace to 720p. Let the A10 do it as it has a much better de-interlacer. With that said, there's not much you can do about SD with this box. The analog tuner is garbage, so, use a splitter and run a line to the A10 coax input. Then adjust set the DRC Palette (see my settings in my sig) to clean up the image. The end result is a sharp and nicely defined picture.

For the 6412, make sure you're using 1080i output for HD and 480i for SD. DO NOT let this cable box scale and de-interlace to 720p. Let the A10 do it as it has a much better de-interlacer. With that said, there's not much you can do about SD with this box. The analog tuner is garbage, so, use a splitter and run a line to the A10 coax input. Then adjust set the DRC Palette (see my settings in my sig) to clean up the image. The end result is a sharp and nicely defined picture.

Ok, so you are saying to go in and switch the output on the box depending what I'm watching (switch it to 1080i for HD and then go back and switch it to 480i for SD)? That's pretty inconvenient.

The splitter won't work for me if I want to use the 6412 DVR to record SD shows. As I said before, I have the composite output of the 6412 going into my VCR and the SD picture that way looks good but I don't get any menus or the guide if I have the 6412 output set to anything other than 480i.

What happened to the good old days when you just plugged in the TV, turned it on, and sat back?

Is all of this (your post) due to using your PC with the TV as opposed to just using the Sony just as a TV? (note: the video card reference)

For those of us yet to purchase any of the Sony's discussed here, it's enough to make us ask if it's all worth it. It seems like the threads have gone from new owners doing a few adjustments to requring a diploma from ITT just to watch the TV. With all due respect to those of you who REALLY know your technical stuff, am I overreacting to all the chat about the unending tweaks that seem to be necessary with these Sonys?

If you're spending $2000 on a HDTV, then I would think you'd want to get the very best PQ from it. You may need to be a bit of a videophile to understand the obsession, though. :) The tweaks needed for the A10 are all easy to do. It's just a matter of spending the time to do it. The A10 has more tweaking options than any other TV I've owned. HDTVs are much more complicated than your standard definition tube/RPTV. Plus, red push has been an problem with TVs for years. Those people (videophiles) wanting accurate color decoding are going to want to take the extra step to correct it. Luckily it's an easy process and doesn't require an electronics engineering degree to do it. Now, if you want it done professionally, you can pay someone to do it. A lot of people make a living doing TV calibrations.

The days of bringing home a TV and just adjusting the brightness and color are long gone. The last TV I did that with was an old 25" Sanyo (currently rotting away in my attic). But this was in the days of just having basic cable and a VCR. Thankfully, those days are long gone, too. :cool:

Translation, please?


What happened to the good old days when you just plugged in the TV, turned it on, and sat back?

Is all of this (your post) due to using your PC with the TV as opposed to just using the Sony just as a TV? (note: the video card reference)

For those of us yet to purchase any of the Sony's discussed here, it's enough to make us ask if it's all worth it. It seems like the threads have gone from new owners doing a few adjustments to requring a diploma from ITT just to watch the TV. With all due respect to those of you who REALLY know your technical stuff, am I overreacting to all the chat about the unending tweaks that seem to be necessary with these Sonys?

You absolutely can just plug in the TV, hook it up to an antenna input, and sit back. Many of us, though, are interested (maybe obsessed? :rolleyes: ) with getting the absolute best quality picture out of our TV's. Some of us also like to use our TV's with a PC. If you don't want to do that, then don't even worry about the posts involving a PC. I created the thread about setting this TV up with a PC in the HTPC section specifically because I thought that some of that discussion should be done in that arena. Some folks, though, that are trying to do this will come to this "all encompassing" A10 thread to find their information initially.

You can do this type of tweaking on ANY TV you buy any more. It isn't specific to these Sony's. So in other words, yes...you are overreacting. :D

Ok, so you are saying to go in and switch the output on the box depending what I'm watching (switch it to 1080i for HD and then go back and switch it to 480i for SD)? That's pretty inconvenient.

The splitter won't work for me if I want to use the 6412 DVR to record SD shows. As I said before, I have the composite output of the 6412 going into my VCR and the SD picture that way looks good but I don't get any menus or the guide if I have the 6412 output set to anything other than 480i.

No. In the 6412 menu there's three settings:

16x9 = 1080i or 720p
4x3 = 480i or 480p
4x3 Override = Off or Stretch

There's no need to switch anything as it automatically detects the signal.

The splitter is for just watching analog channels with better PQ. One line goes to the 6412 and the other goes to the A10. My 6412 has both a coax input and output. You must have one of the older Phase 2 boxes. When I do record something in analog on the 6412, I just have to deal with the poorer PQ. I have a VCR, but just have it hooked up to watch tapes. Using the VCR to record TV shows seems a bit pointless now since I have a DVR, and I always hated having to program them. But if you still watch a lot of SD, then I'd say it's probably a good idea to use the VCR for the better PQ.

Translation, please?


What happened to the good old days when you just plugged in the TV, turned it on, and sat back?

Is all of this (your post) due to using your PC with the TV as opposed to just using the Sony just as a TV? (note: the video card reference)

For those of us yet to purchase any of the Sony's discussed here, it's enough to make us ask if it's all worth it. It seems like the threads have gone from new owners doing a few adjustments to requring a diploma from ITT just to watch the TV. With all due respect to those of you who REALLY know your technical stuff, am I overreacting to all the chat about the unending tweaks that seem to be necessary with these Sonys?


Hey, if you want to have a picture that is oversaturated with the color "red" when plugging in your Sony 42/50A10 for the first time, by all means DON'T DO ANYTHING TO IT! Most of us would rather have a better picture...which is probably why most of us came here in one way or another.

Hey, if you want to have a picture that is over saturated with the color "red" when plugging in your Sony 42/50A10 for the first time, by all means DON'T DO ANYTHING TO IT! Most of us would rather have a better picture...which is probably why most of us came here in one way or another.

Mine looks great..not over saturated at all..I see no need to mess with it. My set must not be typical.

Mine looks great..not over saturated at all..I see no need to mess with it. My set must not be typical.


I bet if you adjusted it just a little bit, you'd notice the difference. But yes you might have an "odd" tv, which wouldn't necessarily be a bad thing at all.

Mine looks great..not over saturated at all..I see no need to mess with it. My set must not be typical.


I've had 4 and and I guess all of them were typical when it came to settings because they
looked pretty bad to us and we're not excatly what you would call videophiles. You're
only cheating yourself out of even more enjoyment by not tweaking a little.

You absolutely can just plug in the TV, hook it up to an antenna input, and sit back. Many of us, though, are interested (maybe obsessed? :rolleyes: ) with getting the absolute best quality picture out of our TV's. Some of us also like to use our TV's with a PC. If you don't want to do that, then don't even worry about the posts involving a PC. I created the thread about setting this TV up with a PC in the HTPC section specifically because I thought that some of that discussion should be done in that arena. Some folks, though, that are trying to do this will come to this "all encompassing" A10 thread to find their information initially.

You can do this type of tweaking on ANY TV you buy any more. It isn't specific to these Sony's. So in other words, yes...you are overreacting. :D


Just to counter-argue FWIW: if we're all spending $2,000+ for a TV, shouldn't it already be closer to a "plug & play" concept as opposed to the myriad of adjustments (however easy or difficult they may be is a matter of perspective) that everyone needs to make? .... just a thought.

I don't have a problem with the PC/TV set up (perhaps just a wee bit jealous as this probably isn't an option for me). I just thought that your info could have been a bit more specific as to the intent. I didn't mean to offend you or ruffle any feathers. I'm trying to ascertain which bits of info in all these threads are pertinent to someone like myself who is initially interested in just getting the most out of the set as quickly and as easily as possible.

In all honesty, this whole A10 thread is the greatest source on the internet and has convinced me that the Sony is the direction I'm likely to take. I think that the amount of information is educational and at the same time somewhat daunting on the surface. My hope is to be as informed as possible when I get my set and that it will be free of all the glitches that unfortunately have plagued too many of the contributors here.

Yeah it uses the xb360´s engine to its best as of available out right now

Somebody post a pic of GRAW gameplay running on the kdf42a10. Plzz
I'm gonna be getting this set 1st week of June I want to see what I will be getting before hand. Thanks

Any one here have any suggestions on cleaning up busy text clarity on the Sony A10 50. Text is cloudy on busy espn news or scrolling bottom line tickers. Any suggestions on some basic menu tweaks to try to fix this

Just to counter-argue FWIW: if we're all spending $2,000+ for a TV, shouldn't it already be closer to a "plug & play" concept as opposed to the myriad of adjustments (however easy or difficult they may be is a matter of perspective) that everyone needs to make? .... just a thought.

I don't have a problem with the PC/TV set up (perhaps just a wee bit jealous as this probably isn't an option for me). I just thought that your info could have been a bit more specific as to the intent. I didn't mean to offend you or ruffle any feathers. I'm trying to ascertain which bits of info in all these threads are pertinent to someone like myself who is initially interested in just getting the most out of the set as quickly and as easily as possible.

In all honesty, this whole A10 thread is the greatest source on the internet and has convinced me that the Sony is the direction I'm likely to take. I think that the amount of information is educational and at the same time somewhat daunting on the surface. My hope is to be as informed as possible when I get my set and that it will be free of all the glitches that unfortunately have plagued too many of the contributors here.

One thing that led me to this TV was this thread specifically as well. Compared to other TV's, this one seems to have the fewest complaints. Most of the glitches people are talking about here are very minor. The color blotch is probably the biggest thing I've seen discussed that can be a major problem. Otherwise, folks are just tweaking. I think the perception for non videophile folks is that the oversaturated reds give tv's more of a "wow" factor, and the TV manufacturers are all about making the showroom "wow" factor as big as possible. I agree, though, that for the money we pay we shouldn't have to go digging around in the service menu just to get the picture from "wow" to "WOW!". I honestly think that without the knowledge of all these tweaks you CAN do to these TV's, 99% of the people purchasing them would be perfectly happy using the standard settings available.

Oh, and you didn't offend me or ruffle any feathers at all. That's the problem with e-mails (or forums I guess), it's easy to misinterpret the tone of what someone was writing!

Just to counter-argue FWIW: if we're all spending $2,000+ for a TV, shouldn't it already be closer to a "plug & play" concept as opposed to the myriad of adjustments (however easy or difficult they may be is a matter of perspective) that everyone needs to make? .... just a thought.

Well, in a way it is. Sony provides three picture modes that have been preset at the factory. Many people that bring the A10 home will probably prefer the Standard picture mode, since it offers a good picture with few enhancing features turned on. You could easily get by with just using the Standard mode, and then adjust the color, sharpness, and brightness settings to your liking. Nothing too complicated here. I actually used the Standard mode for a few weeks and was pretty happy with the PQ. But, fixing the red push and using a Custom picture mode takes the A10 to a higher level in PQ if you really desire it.

Any one here have any suggestions on cleaning up busy text clarity on the Sony A10 50. Text is cloudy on busy espn news or scrolling bottom line tickers. Any suggestions on some basic menu tweaks to try to fix this

Reduce the Sharpness (try 15) and maybe add some noise reduction.

I just realized I have owned my 42A10 for 9 months!
No green blob and no other probs.

And the PQ still rocks!
Best $1800 I have ever spent.

Somebody post a pic of GRAW gameplay running on the kdf42a10. Plzz
I'm gonna be getting this set 1st week of June I want to see what I will be getting before hand. Thanks


before you look at this pic:
1) shot straight from camera
2) white balance is a bit off from the camera setting (also the Mexico level is very red to begin with)
3) did not want to use zoom so this shot is about from 5ft away (closer than normal viewing)

That being said hopefully you will relize that this 360 game (and all others for that matter) look amazing on this set!

Link to pic (http://images3.fotopic.net/?iid=yhsoip&noresize=1&nostamp=1&quality=70)

This may not be the right forum for this question but I would appreciate any help. I have the 42" A 10 and subscribe to DirecTv with the R10 DVR reciver/recorder ( I do not have the local broadcast option). Also available is a spare pc computer. How can I record OTA analog or HD programs using my OTA antenna and computer? If possible, will the HD progams show up on the A10 in Hd when paying back?
What extra equipment and software will I need for my pc for this digital recording?

This may not be the right forum for this question but I would appreciate any help. I have the 42" A 10 and subscribe to DirecTv with the R10 DVR reciver/recorder ( I do not have the local broadcast option). Also available is a spare pc computer. How can I record OTA analog or HD programs using my OTA antenna and computer? If possible, will the HD progams show up on the A10 in Hd when paying back?
What extra equipment and software will I need for my pc for this digital recording?


You won't be able to record any HD programming with what you currently have. The R10 DVR isn't HD, so you'd need either the HR10-250 from DirecTV or something else that can capture or record HD.

Greetings all

New here and also a new owner of the 42" A10 model. Ive had the unit for 3 weeks now and am very happy with it....excpet for one thing and i hope someone can help me out on this or at least inform me to what it could be.

I read somewhere on here about someone talking of a "silk screen" effect of the tv and that its very slight and not annoying. Well, maybe my eyes are just more sensitive but my model seems to have an almost "glittering" effect. In rather bright scenes or in parts with lots of white especially, the screen seems to sparkle quite a lot to the point that it becomes distracting and instead of concentrating on the movie, u just notice the effect on the screen.

It looks like the glass is dirty or u looking through a slightly sand blasted screen. Even in programme material that is not as bright, u can still notice the effect when the camera pans or moves, for example. It looks like the "pixels" on the screen move around rendering the viewing a bit grainy as well.

I have watched other rear screen tv's and i havent noticed any of the other models......even Sony one's.....produce this effect. Now what i want to know is this normal for this type of tv? Is there maybe something wrong with my particular set? Im now starting to wonder if i shouldnt have rather gone for the Sony Plasma instead cause it, at least, has none of these problems and has a crystal clear picture. Is this just something i have to live with or get used to? I have tried to look at the set that is at the local store i bought it from but its difficult to notice if its there cause of the lighting conditions in the store being bright.

My set is also an a stand that is roughly at the same height as the Sony stand for this tv. Can height be an issue here? Oh, and when u view the set from an angle u dont notice the effect nearly as much, if at all. Its only when u sit dead centre. And my viewing distance is about 2.5m (about 8 feet).

Is there anything wrong with my set.......or am i expecting too much from it??

Thanks in advance.

ed from South Africa

my model seems to have an almost "glittering" effect. In rather bright scenes or in parts with lots of white especially, the screen seems to sparkle quite a lot ........
.......its difficult to notice if its there cause of the lighting conditions in the store being bright.

Which picture settings are you using? If you turn down your Iris, Picture, and Brightness settings it might improve your PQ. Try Dark Rain's settings found on the Grand Wega V Tweeks thread.

You won't be able to record any HD programming with what you currently have. The R10 DVR isn't HD, so you'd need either the HR10-250 from DirecTV or something else that can capture or record HD.

My intention was not to use the DirecTv DVR to record OTA broadcasts. I wanted to know if it was possible to use a pc computer with added hardware such as a tuner along with compatible software in able to record those OTA broadcasts. Somewhere, I read that it is possible but I misplaced the article that described how to do it.
I imagine that there many people that would like to record those programs without getting a TIVO receiver setup and paying extra monthly subscription fees.

My intention was not to use the DirecTv DVR to record OTA broadcasts. I wanted to know if it was possible to use a pc computer with added hardware such as a tuner along with compatible software in able to record those OTA broadcasts. Somewhere, I read that it is possible but I misplaced the article that described how to do it.
I imagine that there many people that would like to record those programs without getting a TIVO receiver setup and paying extra monthly subscription fees.

Yes this is quite possible.... you can find more information than you could ever digest in the HTPC forum here on AVS.

Well, in a way it is. Sony provides three picture modes that have been preset at the factory. Many people that bring the A10 home will probably prefer the Standard picture mode, since it offers a good picture with few enhancing features turned on. You could easily get by with just using the Standard mode, and then adjust the color, sharpness, and brightness settings to your liking. Nothing too complicated here. I actually used the Standard mode for a few weeks and was pretty happy with the PQ. But, fixing the red push and using a Custom picture mode takes the A10 to a higher level in PQ if you really desire it.


Thanks for the explanation about the different picture modes. Obviously, not having the set as of yet to find this out for myself, the first impression one can get from all this discussion about tweaks and adjustments being done is that the TV comes with a default setting that might have been formulated by Stevie Wonder.

Bottom line, D.R.: is this maybe the best TV for the price range? Do you think the new models (particularly the 46") may be worth waiting for?

Thanks for the explanation about the different picture modes. Obviously, not having the set as of yet to find this out for myself, the first impression one can get from all this discussion about tweaks and adjustments being done is that the TV comes with a default setting that might have been formulated by Stevie Wonder.

Bottom line, D.R.: is this maybe the best TV for the price range? Do you think the new models (particularly the 46") may be worth waiting for?

The best TV in this price range is Sony's 34XBR960. It's hard to find one these days, but if you look hard you can probably still find one. It's only 34", which is why I didn't buy one.

At this point I would personally wait for the new 46" model. It's bigger and has probably been improved. But if you want a TV right now, the 42A10 is an excellent buy.

Bitsonic, that glittering effect you're seeing is indeed the Silk Screen Effect (SSE). I see it too, but it doesn't bother me in the least. It's caused by the plastic screen on the TV.

The best TV in this price range is Sony's 34XBR960. It's hard to find one these days, but if you look hard you can probably still find one. It's only 34", which is why I didn't buy one.

At this point I would personally wait for the new 46" model. It's bigger and has probably been improved. But if you want a TV right now, the 42A10 is an excellent buy.
Thanks. I'm not interested in a 34" either. The prices on the 42" are very, very tempting right now, but I probably will wait out the next couple of months and take a look at the 46".

Just got my new tv and got comcast hi def box hooked up today. Hooked it up through video input 4 with component cables and optical to receiver for sound . Most hi-def channels look great but, some hi-def ch. go blurry badly when action movies are playing. Is this normal? is there a fix.I made sure they set the box to 1080i like the tv is. i found out that because of the 1080i it makes it so you can't use some of the advanced settings on the tv. Like drc pallete and density settings. i like the tv and american chopper looks awesome but other channels look terrible. anybody have the same tv and know how to fix. any help appreciated.

Just got my new tv and got comcast hi def box hooked up today. Hooked it up through video input 4 with component cables and optical to receiver for sound . Most hi-def channels look great but, some hi-def ch. go blurry badly when action movies are playing. Is this normal? is there a fix.I made sure they set the box to 1080i like the tv is. i found out that because of the 1080i it makes it so you can't use some of the advanced settings on the tv. Like drc pallete and density settings. i like the tv and american chopper looks awesome but other channels look terrible. anybody have the same tv and know how to fix. any help appreciated.

Some high def channels? Makes it sound like a problem with that particular channel, not the TV. I know there are definitly different quality HD channels.

Some high def channels? Makes it sound like a problem with that particular channel, not the TV. I know there are definitly different quality HD channels.

He's most likey referring to macroblocking from channels broadcasting in 1080i. Fast camera pans, strobe lights, and heavy rainfall will always show this compression artifact.

Check your PM, mstrmagoo69.

before you look at this pic:
1) shot straight from camera
2) white balance is a bit off from the camera setting (also the Mexico level is very red to begin with)
3) did not want to use zoom so this shot is about from 5ft away (closer than normal viewing)

That being said hopefully you will relize that this 360 game (and all others for that matter) look amazing on this set!

Link to pic (http://images3.fotopic.net/?iid=yhsoip&noresize=1&nostamp=1&quality=70)

Holy moly that looks incredible. Is that running at 720p? or upscaled to 1080i? I can't wait to get the set and a 360 with GRAW. 4 more weeks. Thanks alot man that was a great screen, nice job.

Holy moly that looks incredible. Is that running at 720p? or upscaled to 1080i? I can't wait to get the set and a 360 with GRAW. 4 more weeks. Thanks alot man that was a great screen, nice job.

The A10 runs 720p native so that is 720p out of the 360. The 360 grafics on this set really are amazing. I cannot even go back to playing Halo 2 on the original xbox because it looks so good in 720p

FYI, the local Fry's store has the 50A10 on a one-day sale for $1799....

I leave mine on normal. You don't even notice the black bars after a while. With zoom the people were short and fat and wide zoom makes the picture look even less sharp than on normal...at least to my eyes. SD is made to be viewed in 4:3 so watch it that way!

I noticed something weird changed with my tv overnight for some reason. I'm pretty sure I had it set to Wide-Normal and was getting the black bars on both sides for standard def programming. This has been the way I have watched it since the day I got it. Then this morning, I turned it on and my kids wanted to watch Nickolodean so when I turned it over there, the entire screen was filled. I flipped through a few other standard def channels and the entire screen was filled on those too. Then I hit the "wide" button on my remote and there were only two options...wide-full and wide-zoom. Normal was nowhere to be found. I went into the settings via the Wega Gate button, but when I try to change it there, "Normal" is greyed out and unselectable.

Can anyone tell me how to get my tv back like a want it? I noticed on INHD that the screen size is now causing the INHD to run off the screen so all you see at the bottom is IN and the HD is off the screen. How could my tv settings change themselves and how can I get it back like it was?

Thanks!

........Can anyone tell me how to get my tv back like a want it? I noticed on INHD that the screen size is now causing the INHD to run off the screen so all you see at the bottom is IN and the HD is off the screen. How could my tv settings change themselves and how can I get it back like it was?

Thanks!

Mr. Old School, check your source output settings. I have the SA8300HD cable box and had a similar problem. If you toggle the # key on the 8300 remote, the cable box unit will change output modes which can cause a "conflict" with your TV's aspect settings.I suspect that your source has somehow changed to 1080i or 480i stretched which will affect the A10 setting.

My dad just got his A10 a week ago!

What are some of the first things that i need to do to have optimal image quality? Right now we only have the local channels, but starting june 6th that will be a different story ;-) (world cup)

What are some inexpensive things i can do? and how can i make sure that all picture formats take up the whole screen, i heard the black bars are not good for your TVs contrast or something like that. Sorry if i sound like a total noob but i am so take it easy on me...thanks.

I have heard about calibration software, is it worth it? Avia or something like that seems to be preferred.

Are there any options i need to change from the manufacturers default?

Mr. Old School, check your source output settings. I have the SA8300HD cable box and had a similar problem. If you toggle the # key on the 8300 remote, the cable box unit will change output modes which can cause a "conflict" with your TV's aspect settings.I suspect that your source has somehow changed to 1080i or 480i stretched which will affect the A10 setting.

That was it! I guess one of my kids must have inadvertently pushed the button or something. Anyway, thanks a bunch for the tip!

My dad just got his A10 a week ago!

What are some of the first things that i need to do to have optimal image quality? Right now we only have the local channels, but starting june 6th that will be a different story ;-) (world cup)

What are some inexpensive things i can do? and how can i make sure that all picture formats take up the whole screen, i heard the black bars are not good for your TVs contrast or something like that. Sorry if i sound like a total noob but i am so take it easy on me...thanks.

I have heard about calibration software, is it worth it? Avia or something like that seems to be preferred.

Are there any options i need to change from the manufacturers default?Start by reading all or most of this thread, and the one below, like I did. ;)

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=567709&page=1&pp=60

When you have specific questions there'll be someone who will come along to answer them. Congratulations on your A10.

When are the new lines launching?

At this point I would personally wait for the new 46" model. It's bigger and has probably been improved. But if you want a TV right now, the 42A10 is an excellent buy.

Does anybody know how much the 46" will cost when released? The price of the 42" is VERY tempting now, but that extra 4" may be worth the wait. It's supposed to be out this summer right?

I've had the 42A10 for about 2 weeks now. I love everything about it except the screen seems like it's textured instead of smooth. When looking at a light solid color I can really notice it. I had a hockey game on yesterday and it was terrible. It almost looks like the screen is frosted. I'm not sure if it's some kind of antiglare on the screen or what. My dad bought the same TV and his is the same way. Anyone else notice this with this TV? I'm concidering taking it back for something else now :/

There are literally hundreds of posts here about the effect you are seeing.
Called SSE for Silk Screen Effect or SDE for Screen Door Effect.
If Sony had put a smoother plasma type screen on it then you would have had lots of glare.
The Sony looks no different from most other RP sets on the market.

The thing you can do to minimize it, especially with Hockey and snow oriented sports is to
not use the Vivid mode and put it in Custom mode then lower the brightness and contrast.

Mine displays it from time to time depending on brightness and it doesn't bother me.

You might want to use "Dark Rain's" settings.

Does anybody know how much the 46" will cost when released? The price of the 42" is VERY tempting now, but that extra 4" may be worth the wait. It's supposed to be out this summer right?

According to Sony, the new KDF-46E2000 will retail for around $2200:

http://news.sel.sony.com/en/press_room/consumer/television/microdisplay/release/20437.html

As I stated in a previous post, I was able to buy the 42a10 for about $1440 at Target ($1599 - 10% off after opening a Target Visa card). My family and I love the 42a10, and I doubt the new 46 inch version is worth spending 53% more.

Kevin

Hey just got the KDF-E42a10 about a month ago.Great TV!Mine did not have the stickers on it when I took it out of the box.Did they quit putting them on? I know in this thread some where there was something about pulling paint off when you removed them.Just curious.

I'm kind of bummed about the new models coming out...

I want a new TV soooo bad, and from what I have seen, I want to stick with LCD RPTV; unfortunately, the current 42" A10 is the physically largest model I can use that will fit in the space provided by my homebuilder without knocking out walls.

Unfortunately, I just can't afford one 8(. I have already sunk over $2000 this year alone in speakers for my HT.

I do NOT like to finance, but I may have too since it seems like they are trying to do away with the 42" versions...

*If* I time it right, hopefully I can pick one up cheaper than they are now, once they release the new models; I wonder what the lowest price they will hit before they dissapear from the market?

-Alan

As I stated in a previous post, I was able to buy the 42a10 for about $1440 at Target ($1599 - 10% off after opening a Target Visa card). My family and I love the 42a10, and I doubt the new 46 inch version is worth spending 53% more.

Kevin

Very well stated. Is the 20% larger screen area worth the 53% higher cost. Tough question to answer.

Greetings all

New here and also a new owner of the 42" A10 model. Ive had the unit for 3 weeks now and am very happy with it....excpet for one thing and i hope someone can help me out on this or at least inform me to what it could be.

I read somewhere on here about someone talking of a "silk screen" effect of the tv and that its very slight and not annoying. Well, maybe my eyes are just more sensitive but my model seems to have an almost "glittering" effect. In rather bright scenes or in parts with lots of white especially, the screen seems to sparkle quite a lot to the point that it becomes distracting and instead of concentrating on the movie, u just notice the effect on the screen.

It looks like the glass is dirty or u looking through a slightly sand blasted screen. Even in programme material that is not as bright, u can still notice the effect when the camera pans or moves, for example. It looks like the "pixels" on the screen move around rendering the viewing a bit grainy as well.

I have watched other rear screen tv's and i havent noticed any of the other models......even Sony one's.....produce this effect. Now what i want to know is this normal for this type of tv? Is there maybe something wrong with my particular set? Im now starting to wonder if i shouldnt have rather gone for the Sony Plasma instead cause it, at least, has none of these problems and has a crystal clear picture. Is this just something i have to live with or get used to? I have tried to look at the set that is at the local store i bought it from but its difficult to notice if its there cause of the lighting conditions in the store being bright.

My set is also an a stand that is roughly at the same height as the Sony stand for this tv. Can height be an issue here? Oh, and when u view the set from an angle u dont notice the effect nearly as much, if at all. Its only when u sit dead centre. And my viewing distance is about 2.5m (about 8 feet).

Is there anything wrong with my set.......or am i expecting too much from it??

Thanks in advance.

ed from South Africa

Here ya go! SSE AVS Thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=656781)

I started that thread after I noticed the SSE on my new A10 50". I wanted to make sure that my set was not defective so I setup that poll to see if anyone else had seen this annoying effect as well. Sure enough, 75% of the people said they saw it so it made me feel a little better. ALL rear projection HDTV's have SSE to some degree.

After having the TV for over two months now, I've come to accept the fact that SSE will always be there. You can turn down the contrast and brightness of the screen to minimize it a little, but the picture becomes too washed out. So I just leave the settings where brightness and SSE are acceptible for me.

It will take a while for you to get over it. It still bothers me to some degree though. :-(
If you don't want SSE, buy a plasma and deal with the reflections. At the A10's price range I feel its one of the best buys out there.

Good luck in overlooking the SSE. Your going to need it! ;)

My wife and I purchased the E50A10 back in November. It has been a great tv up to now. Recently I started noticing horizontal bands of discolorization during HD broadcasts. Here's how I have my setup: I have my Scientific Atlantic 8300 HD DVR hooked up by component cables to my Yamaha HTR-5990 receiver. I have all components connected to my tv(from the receiver) via HDMI. I tried connecting the cable box to the receiver through HDMI but I could not pass video through to the tv due to copy protection. Should I just settle for connecting directly to the tv from the cable box?

I'm kind of bummed about the new models coming out...

I want a new TV soooo bad, and from what I have seen, I want to stick with LCD RPTV; unfortunately, the current 42" A10 is the physically largest model I can use that will fit in the space provided by my homebuilder without knocking out walls.

Unfortunately, I just can't afford one 8(. I have already sunk over $2000 this year alone in speakers for my HT.

I do NOT like to finance, but I may have too since it seems like they are trying to do away with the 42" versions...

*If* I time it right, hopefully I can pick one up cheaper than they are now, once they release the new models; I wonder what the lowest price they will hit before they dissapear from the market?

I understand the issue with the size on the 42" model -- it was the only one that fit in my space as well. It's very hard to predict a bottom-barrel closeout price, but given the prices folks have posted here, I'd be surprised to ever see a price lower than $1200. If the 42A10 passes you by, your next best bet will probably be an LCD or plasma panel.

Hey just got the KDF-E42a10 about a month ago.Great TV!Mine did not have the stickers on it when I took it out of the box.Did they quit putting them on? I know in this thread some where there was something about pulling paint off when you removed them.Just curious.

I think that was pretty limited to a few sets.

Quick question for A10 owners:

How do you guys mount your center channel on top of your televisions? I've got a Polk CSi5 center channel and it is quite deep! Placing on a tube was of no concern to me but RPTV's tend to be quite slim!

Quick question for A10 owners:

How do you guys mount your center channel on top of your televisions? I've got a Polk CSi5 center channel and it is quite deep! Placing on a tube was of no concern to me but RPTV's tend to be quite slim!

I bought one of these at BB:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7035736&type=product&id=1099395889869

It will hold a center speaker up to 30 lbs. It's heavy duty steel and well designed. It attaches with velcro strips at the top and two adjustable feet on the back slope of the TV. There are two steel pegs that hang over the top part of the bezel. This insures that the stand doesn't slip off the backside of the TV.

I understand the issue with the size on the 42" model -- it was the only one that fit in my space as well. It's very hard to predict a bottom-barrel closeout price, but given the prices folks have posted here, I'd be surprised to ever see a price lower than $1200. If the 42A10 passes you by, your next best bet will probably be an LCD or plasma panel.



WOW! Actually, in my mind I didn't think they would ever get that low in price. I hope they do drop to below the $1500 mark. If so, I will probably jump on it, even if I have to finance it. Oh, well-it would be the only component of my HT that wouldn't be paid for, but you gota do what you gota do...

I have to admit, I'm torn though. I have been bouncing back and forth thru alot of the forums, and the more I read, the more confused I'm getting.

By that I mean, so far, everything I have read would indicate a CRT is *still* the superior display technology, unless that information is out of date?

My problem is, in '03 I bought 3 new TV sets; all lowest of the line WEGA. I know nothing is perfect, but in all their peculiarities I am extremely pleased with the quality, EXCEPT my MAIN set has one flaw that drives me up a wall and I want to replace it because of it. On the one hand, I read that CRTs are better (if I can find a good one), on the other, why drop another $1000 for a heavy non-HDTV? Due to my limited layout, size & placement options are limited, and my exisiting TV took 4 people just to get it in place...I really don't want to go thru that again. Plus a 34" CRT widescreen doesn't make much sense to me since it would be a step backward in size (I currently have a 36" 4:3)...

Of all the negatives I have read about various technologies, I still think the A10 is the best suited candidate for my purposes: Its cheap (relatively), lightweight, and the potentialy side effects should be non-issues in my application. I have heard that SDE is only evident when your too close. Well, I will be sitting 12-15ft away, which is realistically too far, but the 42" model is the largest I can place in my cubby. I have also read that SSE is most notible when your directly in front of the TV; again in my case, the TV will be slightly elevated above eye level, and seating is slightly off center, so no one would be in direct view of it, so that shouldn't be an issue. From what I understand RBE on DLPs is noticable from all viewing angles and distances...

What to do....what to do...

How well do the A10s handle a signal coming through the S-video connection? Right now I have a Directivo and the best output it has is S-video (my DVD player has component). Since most of my watching is through my Directivo I want to make sure the picture will be pretty good. I ask because I've heard some TVs do better with certain inputs.

WOW! Actually, in my mind I didn't think they would ever get that low in price. I hope they do drop to below the $1500 mark. If so, I will probably jump on it, even if I have to finance it. Oh, well-it would be the only component of my HT that wouldn't be paid for, but you gota do what you gota do...

I have to admit, I'm torn though. I have been bouncing back and forth thru alot of the forums, and the more I read, the more confused I'm getting.

By that I mean, so far, everything I have read would indicate a CRT is *still* the superior display technology, unless that information is out of date?

My problem is, in '03 I bought 3 new TV sets; all lowest of the line WEGA. I know nothing is perfect, but in all their peculiarities I am extremely pleased with the quality, EXCEPT my MAIN set has one flaw that drives me up a wall and I want to replace it because of it. On the one hand, I read that CRTs are better (if I can find a good one), on the other, why drop another $1000 for a heavy non-HDTV? Due to my limited layout, size & placement options are limited, and my exisiting TV took 4 people just to get it in place...I really don't want to go thru that again. Plus a 34" CRT widescreen doesn't make much sense to me since it would be a step backward in size (I currently have a 36" 4:3)...

Of all the negatives I have read about various technologies, I still think the A10 is the best suited candidate for my purposes: Its cheap (relatively), lightweight, and the potentialy side effects should be non-issues in my application. I have heard that SDE is only evident when your too close. Well, I will be sitting 12-15ft away, which is realistically too far, but the 42" model is the largest I can place in my cubby. I have also read that SSE is most notible when your directly in front of the TV; again in my case, the TV will be slightly elevated above eye level, and seating is slightly off center, so no one would be in direct view of it, so that shouldn't be an issue. From what I understand RBE on DLPs is noticable from all viewing angles and distances...

What to do....what to do...One thing you need to do is quit worrying about getting "superior" picture quality, unless you want to spend a lot more money....the A10 has excellent PQ but accept it for what it is....a $1500 set....and don't expect it to be what it's not. If you decide to buy one you need to make up your mind to just enjoy it and don't compare it to $3000-$4000 sets.

I've seen the 42A10 regularly go for $1499 during one-day or weekend sales over the past couple months. You may find them on sale for less than that, but if you're waiting for the the day-to-day price to drop to that, I think they'll all be gone except for floor models or open-box, before that happens. I doubt the model is still being produced so what's in inventory now is it. You can wait and take a chance on saving a couple hundred on the A10, or you can wait and take a chance on spending a $1000-$1500 or so more on a plasma or LCD. ;)

(BTW, you want to be careful about positioning this set too much above eye level viewing, or you'll get degradation of the picture, but at your viewing distance that should be minimal.)

Quick question for A10 owners:

How do you guys mount your center channel on top of your televisions? I've got a Polk CSi5 center channel and it is quite deep! Placing on a tube was of no concern to me but RPTV's tend to be quite slim!I have the Polk CS350 which is huge and have the same problem....I finally just placed it under the TV on the top shelf of the Sony stand, with a homemade "spacer" underneath to raise it as much as possible, and it performs fine. I don't notice any ill effects from this positioning, but I don't have any obstructions, i.e., coffee table, etc. in the way.

I looked at the shelves that are made for this purpose and decided that I couldn't live with the thought of them crashing down one day. ;)

One thing you need to do is quit worrying about getting "superior" picture quality, unless you want to spend a lot more money....the A10 has excellent PQ but accept it for what it is....a $1500 set....and don't expect it to be what it's not. If you decide to buy one you need to make up your mind to just enjoy it and don't compare it to $3000-$4000 sets.

I've seen the 42A10 regularly go for $1499 during one-day or weekend sales over the past couple months. You may find them on sale for less than that, but if you're waiting for the the day-to-day price to drop to that, I think they'll all be gone except for floor models or open-box, before that happens. I doubt the model is still being produced so what's in inventory now is it. You can wait and take a chance on saving a couple hundred on the A10, or you can wait and take a chance on spending a $1000-$1500 or so more on a plasma or LCD. ;)

(BTW, you want to be careful about positioning this set too much above eye level viewing, or you'll get degradation of the picture, but at your viewing distance that should be minimal.)

Thank you for the reassurance (sincerely, not sarcastically). Since I have never owned a big screen TV before of ANY kind, maybe I wouldn't miss what an extra $1000 would bring. As to viewing angle height, I have taken measurements, and done the math and am WELL within the 60 degree window (+/- 30 degrees from dead on center vertically).

Its just my major concern is spending that much (that is ALOT of money to me, even if its on the "cheap side" of HDTVs) and then experiencing buyers remorse.

Maybe I'm too nitpicky? I'm no videophile, and I can overlook some flaws in products, where others stand out and irritate me like a sore thumb. I just don't want to go thru with that on something this expensive.

Case in point; I find my current TV (KV36FS100) unwatchable because it doesn't have uniform vertical brightness. Its only noticable in a dark room during black scenes (which is the setting we watch most of our movies in); and being a Sci-Fi buff, there are lots of dark scenes in the movies I watch. I didn't notice this problem until after the unit was hoisted up and set into place, which was 30 days after the return policy. Calibration with DVE actually exaggerated the problem.

Anyway, I just don't want to get stuck in a similar situation, but thanks for the advice-I may just have to try to convince the wife that now IS the time to buy.

Firebird,

When you're describing your current vertical drop off in brightness, you use the term "hoisted up". As this can mean at least a couple of different things, are you having a somewhat severe vertical viewing angle? If that's the case, you may run into something similar with most of these rear projection TVs.

Personally, I think the A10 series is a very good set and find it hard to justify spending more for what little difference exist.

FirebirdTN.... I had my reservations about buying a set too, especially for over $1K.... but... I'm glad on finally pulled the trigger on my 42" A10. Xbox360 - Awesome. OTA HDTV - Awesome. SDTV (DirecTv/Tivo [svideo]) - very good.

Firebird,

When you're describing your current vertical drop off in brightness, you use the term "hoisted up". As this can mean at least a couple of different things, are you having a somewhat severe vertical viewing angle? If that's the case, you may run into something similar with most of these rear projection TVs.

Personally, I think the A10 series is a very good set and find it hard to justify spending more for what little difference exist.

I wouldn't call it a severe vertical viewing angle, but the set is pretty high up (center of the screen is about 6' high). But I found an online trionometry calculator and took measurements and even if I was laying on the floor at 15 feet away, I would only be at a 23 degree angle. Sitting up on the couch, I would be at a 15 degree angle (both within the +/- 30 sony specs for the A10).

The vertical brightness problem I have isn't related to viewing angle. I can get a chair stand up and look directly at the screen and its still noticable.

I do not want to hijack this thread concerning my issues, but I started a new thread if anyone cares concerning it here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=676108

Oh, and that trig calculator site was pretty handy when computing angles, as I had forgot all my trig formulas from back in the day. It is here:

http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-trigright.asp

Thanks,

-Alan

I wouldn't call it a severe vertical viewing angle, but the set is pretty high up (center of the screen is about 6' high). But I found an online trionometry calculator and took measurements and even if I was laying on the floor at 15 feet away, I would only be at a 23 degree angle. Sitting up on the couch, I would be at a 15 degree angle (both within the +/- 30 sony specs for the A10).<snip>Specs are one thing....reality is another. IMO, 6 feet to the center of the screen is pushing the envelope for any RPTV if you're sitting in a normal position, much less lying on the floor, even at 15 feet. I'm sitting at 12-13 feet from my 50A10, with center of screen at about 40". I'm 6'-3" and when I stand up at my sitting position I see a difference in PQ....not unacceptable but still not what I'd want to watch 100% of the time. I know there are others who have their RPTV's mounted at 6 feet or higher but I think some have resorted to blocking up the back of the TV slightly to tilt the screen forward.

If you look at the Sony stands that are sold for these TV's you'll see that the height varies according to the TV it's designed for....IMO, that's because Sony knows what the optimum viewing height is, and anything different is going to affect PQ to some degree.

Remember, the spec is designed to a show the absolute widest angles that will give an "acceptable" picture, and to make Sony look good against the competition. Once you move away from the "sweet spot" (head-on viewing) the PQ will start falling off, so that when you reach the limit of the specified viewing angle, depending on lighting conditions and other factors, you may not have a picture worthy of your investment. This is true of all RPTV's, AFAIK.

RPTV's are "a different breed of cat" than direct-view TV's, and it's the details that make the difference between excellent PQ and barely watchable, IMO. They are much more sensitive to lighting and viewing position, and this is something you need to know and be prepared to deal with, or you won't be happy with your purchase. If you read these forums, you see that people are tweeking and fine-tuning these sets like an expensive sports car....not that I think that's necessary, but the truth is the PQ is not always the best under all conditions, like your CRT set might be 99% of the time. That's the reason I would recommend you buy from a dealer who is willing to work with you if you find you can't live with it, rather than looking for the absolute lowest price, and then being stuck with it if it doesn't work out.

Not trying to scare you off....the A10 is an excellent TV, and even though my budget would've allowed me to spend twice as much or more than the price I paid, I chose it because it represents IMO the best bang for the buck in the current crop of HDTV's, and the alternatives don't offer that much more for the extra price of admission....but I bought it knowing it's limitations.

Sorry for the lengthy post....I guess I've used up my space for a while. :D

how is it that you determine the correct picture setting for contrast? I have my set in a dark room with minimal light so around what setting would my picture level be at?

WOW! Actually, in my mind I didn't think they would ever get that low in price. I hope they do drop to below the $1500 mark. If so, I will probably jump on it, even if I have to finance it. Oh, well-it would be the only component of my HT that wouldn't be paid for, but you gota do what you gota do....

Just to make sure we're clear on this -- I was estimating what I thought would be the lowest price the set might ever go for in a final-day closeout (keeping in mind that there's always a floor that major retailers realistically won't go below). Most retailers will do everything in their power to closeout the sets at higher prices, and as long as there are folks who see the TV as a bargain at $1500 or $1400, they won't have any incentive to go lower than that. Also, by the time the set got to the lowest price, it might be a last-one floor model -- so if it had any problems at all, you would not be able to exchange it for another like-sized unit (as the 42" model won't be carried forward).

What I'm getting at is: I wouldn't make plans on seeing the set near that $1200 mark. If I were predicting an actual closeout price, I'd say you might see some retailers pushing them out the door for $1399 or thereabouts.

Thank you for the reassurance (sincerely, not sarcastically). Since I have never owned a big screen TV before of ANY kind, maybe I wouldn't miss what an extra $1000 would bring. As to viewing angle height, I have taken measurements, and done the math and am WELL within the 60 degree window (+/- 30 degrees from dead on center vertically).

Its just my major concern is spending that much (that is ALOT of money to me, even if its on the "cheap side" of HDTVs) and then experiencing buyers remorse.

Maybe I'm too nitpicky? I'm no videophile, and I can overlook some flaws in products, where others stand out and irritate me like a sore thumb. I just don't want to go thru with that on something this expensive.

Case in point; I find my current TV (KV36FS100) unwatchable because it doesn't have uniform vertical brightness. Its only noticable in a dark room during black scenes (which is the setting we watch most of our movies in); and being a Sci-Fi buff, there are lots of dark scenes in the movies I watch. I didn't notice this problem until after the unit was hoisted up and set into place, which was 30 days after the return policy. Calibration with DVE actually exaggerated the problem.

Anyway, I just don't want to get stuck in a similar situation, but thanks for the advice-I may just have to try to convince the wife that now IS the time to buy.

I purchased the sceptre before this set. I was very unhappy with it. It makes a good monitor, but as a tv is @#%. What makes this set so nice is that it just works. The pic looks great, and it is easy to use. I see NO odd things in the picture. I have no prob saying buy this set. You will be happy.

how is it that you determine the correct picture setting for contrast? I have my set in a dark room with minimal light so around what setting would my picture level be at?

Start at 75 and drop it some if you find it too bright. The source will also determine the setting. Whites should look bright but not crushed.

I have the Polk CS350 which is huge and have the same problem....I finally just placed it under the TV on the top shelf of the Sony stand, with a homemade "spacer" underneath to raise it as much as possible, and it performs fine. I don't notice any ill effects from this positioning, but I don't have any obstructions, i.e., coffee table, etc. in the way.

I looked at the shelves that are made for this purpose and decided that I couldn't live with the thought of them crashing down one day. ;)

I tried the Omnimount center channel shelf on my A10 50" with a JBL EC35 center. The EC35 weights in at a hefty 22 pounds! :eek:
I hooked up the shelf and placed the speaker on top and said "there is NO WAY I'm going to leave it like that!". It made the TV way too top heavy and very unstable. Plus it looked UGLY up there!
So, went to Home Depot and bought a wall shelf to match the decore of the room and two really nice designer brackets (have to please the wife ya know). Mounted the shelf with 30 pound wall anchors and I'm all set. Sturdy as can be and looks MUCH better!

I'm kind of bummed about the new models coming out...

I want a new TV soooo bad, and from what I have seen, I want to stick with LCD RPTV; unfortunately, the current 42" A10 is the physically largest model I can use that will fit in the space provided by my homebuilder without knocking out walls.

Unfortunately, I just can't afford one 8(. I have already sunk over $2000 this year alone in speakers for my HT.

I do NOT like to finance, but I may have too since it seems like they are trying to do away with the 42" versions...

*If* I time it right, hopefully I can pick one up cheaper than they are now, once they release the new models; I wonder what the lowest price they will hit before they dissapear from the market?

-Alan
______________________
Firebird, I'll throw in my 2 cents. I was much like you... my space confined me to a 42" set as long as the speakers were not mounted on the side. I had always had conventional CRT sets and was concerned with the PQ of analog non-HDTV broadcast since we will be living with them for many years (I only get 5 HDTV channels today). After buying the 42a10 about a month ago, I've got to tell you the PQ on SDTV broadcasts is extremely watchable on this set. I was really afraid that it would be horrible, but was in fact pleasantly surprised to the point where I wondered what all the fuss was about. Of course the HDTV channels are an incredible leap in PQ... like looking through a window as they say.

As far as the viewing angle, my screen is slightly above eye level when sitting on the sofa or chair (viewing distance is between 8' - 13'). PQ is unchanged from my left to right seating positions of about +/- 20 degrees. However, when I stand up I notice a darkening of the screen, still watchable though. When I sit on the ground (which is more like your situation) the screen does not seem to darken. So for my set the downward viewing angle is about the same as the left to right angles. Your 6' does seem a bit high though.

As far as price, I was lucky in that I have a friend of a friend that works at Best Buy and was able to get an employee discount of $1799 - $500 = $1299. I am not budget limited in making household purchases such as this, but I still chose this set over plasma, LCD, CRT & other RPLCD sets and I am extremely happy with my choice. If you have any contacts that work at BB, CC or others, that would be your best price (most probably don't and I feel fortunate in this case). On the retail market my uneducated guess would be that these sets might come down into the $1300 - $1400 range before they are gone, as I believe Sony has a very good product here with a good reputation, so they won't have a problem moving the last ones out as the price continues to drop.

Good luck to you on whatever decision you make. :D

is there any way to make the output (rca) louder?
seems awfully quiet.
the tv is loud but the output signal is at a much lower level so i hear my tv much louder than my 4 200w speakers.

is there any way to make the output (rca) louder?
seems awfully quiet.
the tv is loud but the output signal is at a much lower level so i hear my tv much louder than my 4 200w speakers.Are you running your external speakers from an amp?

Yes.

Are you running your external speakers from an amp?