>>> The Official Sony Grand Wega V (A10 series) Thread <<< [Text View] - Page 34

fortnerw

06-10-06, 09:46 PM

I'm having a problem with using the HDMI input on my KDF-E50A10. I have an HDMI cable running from my cable box to the tv. However, I want to run surround sound audio thru my AVR. So, I used the opitcal out on my cable box and connected it straight to my AVR (my AVR dosesn't have an HDMI or DVI input). The problem is that the audio is only in 2 channel stereo and not in 5.1. I then tried running the optical cable from the tv's optical out to my AVR, but that didn't work at all. Does anyone know how I can use the HDMI input for my video but use my AVR for surround sound audio?

Dudlet I think I can explain your problem. When you use the HDMI output of your cable box to the tv you are going into an external input of the tv. It supports 2 channel audio only to the tv. When you try to send the optical from the tv to the avr you get nothing. The tv optical output only outputs when you use atsc tuner on a digital tuner channel such as 11.1 in my town. You will have to run a digital signal from your cable box-coax or optical to your avr to get 5.1 from your cable box. I did not have enough optical inputs on my avr and had to get a optical switch. Look at the specification sheet in the back of your tv manual page 94. It shows that HDMI in audio is only two channel PCM. Hope this explains the problem and fix

Melanotheron

06-10-06, 10:03 PM

You will have to run a digital signal from your cable box-coax or optical to your avr to get 5.1 from your cable box. I did not have enough optical inputs on my avr and had to get a optical switch.
If I read Dudlet's setup correctly, he did say he was running an optical out from the cable box to his AVR. In another post, he said he gets 5.1 when going through component, but not HDMI. I am also using the HDMI input to the tv and an optical out from my dvr to my receiver and I get 5.1 surround on channels that broadcast it. However, my dvr has a dvi out, so I am using a dvi-hdmi cable to the tv. Also, I get 5.1 surround sound when going from the tv optical out to my receiver on the digital stations that broadcast 5.1. I only get the 2 speakers if the station is analog or not broadcasting digital surround sound.

Shakesa7

06-10-06, 11:47 PM

Sanitarium

06-11-06, 03:25 AM

Does anyone here use their xbox 360 with the vga connection on the a10. No matter what resolution i try with the 360 i get about a one inch border around the picture. i have the border with the tv set to full 1 or full 2 and with zoom, it actually zooms in a little to much cutting some of the picture out.

Anyone know what settings to use?

Yeah I noticed this too. It think the only way to fix it would be to go into the service menu and tweak it that way. Personally, I don't have the guts to do it so I just went back to component. Man I wish they would have added upconversion over component in that dash update.

maverick0716

06-11-06, 04:16 PM

I have had the tv for almost a month now and i can see some horizontal lines on the screen when the movies camera moves in a vertical motion. The lines do not move, they stay in the same place on the screen almost like a texture or how a burn in might look. Its very faint and i can really see it on War of the worlds where there is a lot of smoke and on Ice age at the beginning when the camera looks up at the cracking iceberg. When i play Xbox360 games i can see it when flying fast through the clouds on Blazing Angels. Anyone have similar experiences? Also i can see it in some of the clouds on King Kong during the plane sequence. IS my TV damaged or is it just a limitation to the Unit? Im using a Sony DVD HDMI input 720P and i am running the xbox at 720p also and i still see it. Any help would be great

I don't know about the other ones, but with Blazing Angels......that's called "tearing". It's a fault of the game coding, not the TV. You can also see tearing in other games, like Perfect Dark for example.

bramma_99

06-11-06, 06:06 PM

Well, I work at a rent to own company and we can get merchandise at the manufacturer's pricing. We recently got a couple of these bad boys in, and all I can say is wow! I've seen probably 200 different models of dlp, lcd, dv, plasma, rpcrt, etc and the only one I would rate ahead of this is a 51" Zenith dlp. I'm not sure of the model number, but it would cost me an additional $400. Right now, i can nab the 42 for a little over a grand. I've pretty much read through this whold post, and I think I'm gonna come home with it tomorrow. Just wondering if anyone had any advice.

Melanotheron

06-11-06, 08:04 PM

My advice is to buy two and send one to me! That's a great price!

kicks

06-12-06, 12:38 AM

kicks

06-12-06, 12:40 AM

Yeah I noticed this too. It think the only way to fix it would be to go into the service menu and tweak it that way. Personally, I don't have the guts to do it so I just went back to component. Man I wish they would have added upconversion over component in that dash update.

It's probably the cable.

kicks

06-12-06, 12:48 AM

Which has overall better PQ 42A10 or 50A10?

kingsleytim

06-12-06, 11:04 AM

I don't know about the other ones, but with Blazing Angels......that's called "tearing". It's a fault of the game coding, not the TV. You can also see tearing in other games, like Perfect Dark for example.

No its not the tearing, Thats a vertical sync issue where the game is renedering faster than the xbox can draw. Like i said before it was a problem that was stationary on the screen, it is only visible on some digitally compressed movies and was not a problem with the media. It is like a mark on the inside of the screen if you will, like a smudge or smudges in one or two spots. I bought the 50" and see no issues now, the 42" seemed to suffer that problem. So far the 50" has been great except for some flickering which was solved by doing an unplug wait and replug action.

tts42572

06-12-06, 04:46 PM

Zawada

06-12-06, 05:26 PM

ByrdDogg

06-12-06, 10:45 PM

What exactly am I looking for in terms of a dead pixel? I have the 43" and have had it for 4 months or so. It's great.

But I was watching the hockey game just now and noticed a little smudge on the screen that my kid probably put there....anyways...As I got closer I saw a very small black spot on the screen....It could not be wiped off and I checked other channels to rule out the HD camera the game was using. It's very small and not real noticealbe from 7 feet or so but you can see it if looking for it.

Is this a dead pixel? Is that covered as part of any warranty purchased? It's bugging me now that I've seen it.

kicks

06-13-06, 12:47 AM

I'm currently trying to decide between a Sony A10 and a Samsung HLS4266 DLP. This has been one of the toughest freakin decisions I've ever had to make.

Anyways, wondering if some A10 fans can maybe give me some reasons why you chose the A10. I'm sure many others in this thread compared Sammy DLP's to the Sony before purchasing.

Personally, I've seen both pictures and both are okay with me. Don't mind the brightness of the Sammy, but also like the softness of the Sony.

For me, I'm really trying to sort out the technology. I want the set that is going to stand up better and result in less problems.

One thing that is concerning me about the Sony is reading about dead pixels. Is this something that should be a concern?

And with the Samsung, I'm concerned about all those darn moving parts.

I know it's a crapshoot...but I'm hoping somebody can help me stack the odds in my favor by choosing the better set to begin with.

Would really appreciate any thoughts on the two sets for others that have made comparisons.

I heard DLP has lag during video gameplay. And it has more moving parts so it more prone to more parts breaking which means more things to fix and more hassle. Overall I think the A10 has better pic. I was tossing these two for a while during the 5 months of research I did before going with the A10. I went from Sharp 37" LCD to 40" Samsung LCD to 42" Samsung DLP and lastly to the KDF-E42A10. It was a great price and less likely to encounter major issues.

Dark Rain

06-13-06, 01:06 AM

ByrdDogg

06-13-06, 01:27 AM

It could be a dead pixel or a speck of dirt. Dead/stuck pixels are not covered under the warranty unless you have many in a cluster or line. That would be considered a defect of the LCD panels.

Could it be a speck of dirt beneath the outer screen? It kinda looks like dirt but it won't come off. Is there a way to get dirt that gets caught between?

Dark Rain

06-13-06, 02:47 AM

Could it be a speck of dirt beneath the outer screen? It kinda looks like dirt but it won't come off. Is there a way to get dirt that gets caught between?

If it's just on the other side of the screen you can probably clean it yourself. If it's inside the light engine you'll need to call Sony.

RBethel

06-13-06, 03:03 AM

I'm currently trying to decide between a Sony A10 and a Samsung HLS4266 DLP. This has been one of the toughest freakin decisions I've ever had to make.

Anyways, wondering if some A10 fans can maybe give me some reasons why you chose the A10. I'm sure many others in this thread compared Sammy DLP's to the Sony before purchasing.

Personally, I've seen both pictures and both are okay with me. Don't mind the brightness of the Sammy, but also like the softness of the Sony.

For me, I'm really trying to sort out the technology. I want the set that is going to stand up better and result in less problems.

One thing that is concerning me about the Sony is reading about dead pixels. Is this something that should be a concern?

And with the Samsung, I'm concerned about all those darn moving parts.

I know it's a crapshoot...but I'm hoping somebody can help me stack the odds in my favor by choosing the better set to begin with.

Would really appreciate any thoughts on the two sets for others that have made comparisons.
I returned the Samsung and purchased two Sony's (42" and 50"). My concerns were the color wheel, and the fact that I saw rainbows with the DLP sets. Also the Samsung had major lip sync. problems. I also had a set that drooped because of a poorly designed TV stand. I've had no issues with the Sony TV (in approx. 7 months) And the price of replacement bulbs continues to drop (when the need arises)

MDRNHL

06-13-06, 05:01 PM

Anyways, wondering if some A10 fans can maybe give me some reasons why you chose the A10. I'm sure many others in this thread compared Sammy DLP's to the Sony before purchasing.

Personally, I've seen both pictures and both are okay with me. Don't mind the brightness of the Sammy, but also like the softness of the Sony.

I was looking at the DLPs when I first started shopping for an HD, and unfortunately I see rainbows in every dang one of them. Thats what got me looking at the other technologies, and ultimately the Sony A10. We bought ours this past December, and we are still very happy with it! :p

lastplace

06-13-06, 06:45 PM

I was looking at the DLPs when I first started shopping for an HD, and unfortunately I see rainbows in every dang one of them. Thats what got me looking at the other technologies, and ultimately the Sony A10. We bought ours this past December, and we are still very happy with it! :p

Ditto,
Got mine for Christmas, I know of 3 people buying a 50a10 after seeing it in action. Around here we have to get HD OTA and it is awesome!

ramsinks

06-14-06, 12:35 PM

lastplace

06-14-06, 03:09 PM

As for OTAHD 5.1

Mine also only comes in as two speakers (digital stereo) not 5.1 as well. I just have the TV optical going into a JVC DTS receiver. The HTPC works fine with DTS/5.1 but not OTA.
At least it comes through as digital though....

(yes, these are shows that say "in 5.1 digital" when they start.)

My only thought is that this is going to "CD digital" on the JVC .. so maybe JVC assumes(d) that this input would only need two speakers so lets only allow two speakers to be used on this input.. idk, I can try others.

I receive 5.1 via OTA, Cable and my HDD-250 DVR. While all HD shows are not in 5.1, when I receive show that is in 5.1 a blue light fires up on my sony amp. The TV and DVR are hooked up by optical cable. The DVR via my optical CD input.

BTW, On my set up I had to use "L & R" stereo cables to receive non-5.1 (ie stereo) sound. Optical cables only transmit "digital" information.

gwsmith

06-14-06, 03:30 PM

<snip>BTW, On my set up I had to use "L & R" stereo cables to receive non-5.1 (ie stereo) sound. Optical cables only transmit "digital" information.Ditto. ;)

ramsinks

06-14-06, 05:27 PM

gwsmith

06-14-06, 06:03 PM

Ya, need analog for analog.

Could it be that here in Boise that my stations just don't re-boradcast them in 5.1? Have we seen that happen?
My settings are fine, other than the possible issue with JVC's "digital CD in" not doing 5.1. I have 3 digital inputs, i'll try others.My Onkyo AVR has 3 optical inputs....I can get only one of them to work (can't read the manual.... :rolleyes: ). So I just run all my optical sources to an auto digital switch and then one cable to the working input on the Onkyo. Makes my life simpler. :cool:

Melanotheron

06-14-06, 07:05 PM

ramsinks: I think it may be your local stations' fault. I can get three ABC stations OTA and once in a while, I will recieve 5.1 from one of them and only 2.1 from another. Same show, same time slot, just a different station broadcasting.

GW - What kind of auto digital switch do you have? Right now I have a manual switch, but would like to get an auto switch like you have.

lastplace

06-14-06, 09:30 PM

My Onkyo AVR has 3 optical inputs....I can get only one of them to work (can't read the manual.... :rolleyes: ). So I just run all my optical sources to an auto digital switch and then one cable to the working input on the Onkyo. Makes my life simpler. :cool:

gws your issue may be with remapping or relabeling the inputs.

gwsmith

06-14-06, 10:22 PM

<snip>What kind of auto digital switch do you have? Right now I have a manual switch, but would like to get an auto switch like you have.It's an Audio Authority model 1177....up to four digital source inputs, optical or coaxial.

It was spendy....something like $115 as I recall, but now I wouldn't give it up. It's more if you buy direct....I think I got mine from Copperbox?

This unit has some limitations but it works great for me....the main thing to be aware of is that you must prioritize your sources; this is accomplished by the sequence that the sources are connected to the device's inputs, i.e, if a signal is output from two sources simultaneously, the switch will output the source that has the higher priority.

For the most part this scheme works flawlessly. The only issue is DVR's that sometimes emit a digital signal when recording. If you're watching a DVD and the DVR has a higher "priority" than the DVD player, you may get audio from the DVR. This has occurred very rarely with my setup, and when it does happen it's a simple matter to push a button on the switch to manually select the correct output. Manual operation is always an option, but I've only used that a couple of times since I've had the switch. I'd say the switch is 99% foolproof and I highly recommend it. I could probably rearrange some priorities and make it 100% foolproof.

The actual device is deceiving in appearance....plastic enclosure, small and lightweight....doesn't look or feel at all as expensive as it is, but it gets the job done. I have thoroughly enjoyed not having to get up from my lazy boy to change audio sources. :D

gwsmith

06-14-06, 10:28 PM

gws your issue may be with remapping or relabeling the inputs.Thanks....you're probably right, but I haven't had the incentive to check it out because it's no longer an issue with me. I really hate doing anything with the Onkyo other than turning on or off and changing volume....if you're familiar with the Onkyo remote you know what I mean. Can't wait to get a good UR so I can put that one in a drawer. ;)

Melanotheron

06-14-06, 10:33 PM

It's an Audio Authority model 1177....up to four digital source inputs, optical or coaxial.

Thanks a lot! I will check into it and try to sneak it by my wife.... I know, I like to live on the edge!

Mel

pottscb

06-14-06, 10:40 PM

Which has overall better PQ 42A10 or 50A10?

Close to the same...I have noticed that the 42 consistently appreas brighter and better brightness uniformity...I believe they use the same bulb which would make complete sense if the 42 was brighter and more uniform than the 50...its basically utilizing the "sweet spot" of the 50 with less brightness "fall off" around the edges. Buy the 42 and sit closer : )

terzaghi

06-15-06, 01:44 PM

I've been doing some research for a while, and i am pretty sure i am going to go out and get this tv. Circuit city or best buy (dont remember which) has the 50" on sale through there website and the 42 for as well...i was going to get the 42" but for a couple of hundred bucks i can get the 50"....

anyway- ill let you guys know which i go with-

BTW this threaed has been VERY informative.

Character_Zero

06-15-06, 04:49 PM

Yeah, you know the great thing about this thread, is that there is more good things said than bad. Thats unusal for thread about a specific product. Usually these things are more troubleshooting or complaints. Really shows you how great a TV it really is.

Character_Zero

06-15-06, 04:52 PM

Ya, need analog for analog.

Could it be that here in Boise that my stations just don't re-boradcast them in 5.1? Have we seen that happen?
My settings are fine, other than the possible issue with JVC's "digital CD in" not doing 5.1. I have 3 digital inputs, i'll try others.

Yeah its at a local station level. The ABC here doesn't do 5.1 because they haven't spent the money on the Dolby Digital decoder. It has nothing to do with ABC not sending the digital audio or anything. Every other station is HD with 5.1. The only exception is (what used to be) the WB. Its a special case since the Fox station also has the WB and they can only broadcast one HD channel and Fox won (thank goodness).

Fiend

06-15-06, 07:13 PM

I've been doing some research for a while, and i am pretty sure i am going to go out and get this tv. Circuit city or best buy (dont remember which) has the 50" on sale through there website for 1799 and the 42 for 1539 or something... i was going to get the 42" but for a couple of hundred bucks i can get the 50"....

anyway- ill let you guys know which i go with-

BTW this threaed has been VERY informative.

terzaghi, check your PM before you go and buy...

J Quade

06-15-06, 07:57 PM

I'm sorry if this has been brought up already, but I don't have the patience to go through the 200 some pages searching for an answer.

I just picked the 42A10, really nice!

BUT, there is something about this tv that definitely irks me. Maybe it's just how the LCDRP technology works, I don't know, but it's as if I'm looking through a thin layer of grease. Thats the word that comes to my mind when I try to describe it. It is especially noticable when the A10 is displaying whites, but any bright colour brings it out. It is also more prominent in the middle of the screen.

I'm sorry if this is a poor description, but it's what it looks like to me, like grease. The picture just seems overly shiny.

Someone mentioned the screen looking silky and shiny. That could be what I'm seeing, but silky isn't the word that comes to my mind. It's definitely greasy.

Is this normal for the A10? Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Sasquatch321

06-15-06, 08:06 PM

J Quade

06-15-06, 08:35 PM

Thank you!

Melanotheron

06-15-06, 11:25 PM

civicex2g

06-16-06, 04:44 PM

Hello all, this is my first post... I have had my e50a10 for about 3 weeks now and couldnt be HAPPIER with it... but I have a few questions...

I have Adelphia HD with an explorer box going in thru component cables, I bought a DVI to HDMI cable for it to connect it to the TV and I get an error stating something about copywrite protection, and its blocked. I called my cable company, and they told me it was Sony's issue.

2nd question is when I am on HD channels (not all but only some) on the top of the screen I get 2 ULTRA WHITE pixels like on the top right (not all the way to the right) and this only happens on a couple of the HD channels.. not all. Is this dead pixels?

3rd and last question is... I dont know if this is an issue with my box or the TV, but when I am watching ESPN (Go HEAT!) and especially when watching a basketball game, when the camera is going down the court fast, it seems like the TV cant handle it and gets a bit "pixelated" is this the TV or the Cable Box?

Any help would be highly appreciated, and I searched for these issues but came up wtih nothing.

cbagger01

06-16-06, 06:05 PM

It's probably your cable company over-compressing your digital cable in order to squeeze in more channels.

ESPN HD (I assume you are watching ESPN HD and not regular ESPN) is broadcast in 720p which is considered to be better for action TV such as sporting events, so it is probably not the broadcast format. Even so, for VERY brief periods of time it is still possible to see a small amount of pixelation when watching digital TV.

The only times I have seen my A10 show severe pixelation was when watching severely compressed digital over-the-air TV. My local CBS affiliate broadcast 3 NCAA tournament games AT THE SAME TIME on one "channel" and the 2nd and 3rd subchannels were pixelated.

The other situation was when watching my local PBS affiliate which was broadcasting 1 HD show and 3 SD shows on the same "channel".

It is very unlikely that you are seeing problems due to the TV itself. Garbage in = garbage out

MustangSVT

06-16-06, 06:40 PM

I have a small question regarding this type of TV (Specifically, the 50A10).

How well does a PC display on it? I see it has component, HDMI and VGA input. My video card on my PC is a GeForce 6800GT and it has Dual DVI and 1 S-Video Out. I was hoping to use like a DVI to VGA adapter and just run a VGA cable to the TV and use a resolution like 1280x720 or 1366x768 on the TV.

I haven't bought the 50A10 yet, I'm just looking for some details on how well a PC could display on it.

Thanks in advance for any response.

ramsinks

06-16-06, 06:40 PM

Thanks ZC.
You from the Boise area?

I figured so.. my settings are good - I know what I'm doing; just thought I was going crazy.
;)

Not that a sit-com would be killer in 5.1.. so I don't really care.
Ooo The Office in 5.1! Was that Michelle behind me!?

** SVT**

Dude, the TV is awsome on a PC. I get 1:1 pixel mapping.
But you will have to run VGA to VGA input to get it. Nobody has got the DVI to do so. I am speaking of the 42', however assuming the same. I use a 9600Pro 128. Now, you do have to use powerstrip to get the 1:1.
1224x688 is what your rez will be to fit good and get pix mapping.

maverick0716

06-16-06, 06:41 PM

I snapped some pics of my A10 playing Episode III and a few HD videos on the Xbox 360 today. I use a Panasonic S97 player outputing 480p through HDMI in case anyone's wondering.

Ep. III pics from 480p ouput on Panny S97
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i73/maverick0716/ROTS_10.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i73/maverick0716/ROTS_15.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i73/maverick0716/ROTS_06.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i73/maverick0716/ROTS_05.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i73/maverick0716/ROTS_02.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i73/maverick0716/ROTS_01.jpg

Other Pics in HD (720p) from Xbox 360

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i73/maverick0716/CarsHD_01.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i73/maverick0716/AScannerDarklyHD_01.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i73/maverick0716/IceAge2HD_02.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i73/maverick0716/IceAge2HD_01.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i73/maverick0716/X360_DB1.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i73/maverick0716/TitanicHD_02.jpg

J Quade

06-16-06, 06:48 PM

Mine doesn't look like that.

So one person does see this, and one doesn't.

Would anyone else care to comment on this? It kinda really bothers me. I don't see how this set could be so popular if what I'm seeing is normal.

One of the big reasons I wanted an HDTV was for HD hockey, and like I said this greasy picture really shows up on whites :(

Maybe theres a thin layer of grease on the mirror?

Melanotheron

06-16-06, 06:59 PM

mattearl

06-16-06, 07:14 PM

MustangSVT

06-16-06, 07:34 PM

Dark Rain

06-16-06, 08:09 PM

FirebirdTN

06-16-06, 08:26 PM

Thank you for the response concering PC input. I can use VGA to VGA, I can just put a DVI to VGA adapter on my video card output directly. So 1224x688 is what you'd have to use for 1:1 pixel mapping? How come 1280x720 or 1366x768 don't work? Just seems weird to me. :confused:

Does the 1224x688 look good at least?? If it really looks good, then I don't really care if it's lower than 720p.

BTW, nice pictures with the DVD and 360.

The reason for the odd res, is although 1280x720 is the native res of the A10, and would yield 1:1 pixel mapping, some of the pixels are not visible, as they are covered up by the TVs border, therefore at a setting of 1280x720 you wouldn't be able to see your start menu, the extreme sides or top of the screen.

If your wondering why they did that, TV has a certain amount of "overscan". Without it, you would see garbage on top of your picture, and maybe on the sides from additional information in the picture signal. Those items are out of the visible area due to overscan (having some of the picture not visible).

PCs on the other hand do NOT have overscan. Therein lies the real problem.

So when viewing sources from the inputs, all 1280x720 pixels are used, you just can't see all of them due to this overscan.

Same goes for VGA, so Sony scales it so that there is about a 1" visible black border around the VGA input. So, by using the VGA input, putting it in "zoom" (I forgot which zoom mode) it will use all 1280x720 pixels, but some of the screen won't be visible. So using powerstrip, you are fitting the display area to the amount of visible pixels on the A10, which happens to be that odd res mentioned above (1224x688).

I guess a simpler way of explaining would be that the TVs resolution is 1280 x 720 pixels, BUT only 1224 x 688 of them are actually visible.

What I can't figure out, is why didn't Sony have a "zoom" setting that would fill the screen when using the VGA input, but not so much as to have information lost from the visible area. I heard they did that on the new model, yet the new model dropped the VGA input!

I hope what I said made some sense...

-Alan

Sasquatch321

06-17-06, 12:36 AM

ramsinks

06-17-06, 12:45 AM

Ya, what Alan said.

Looks killer man. But I do use the TV's HD tuner. I tried the ATI HD tuner.. but it totall sucks - mostly from the software stand point.

I use Theater Tek for my DVD's and VLC for downloads.
A nice bluetooth mouse/keyboard is good, don't expect the IR ones to reach.
;)

So really, even at that special rez, it still upscalls DVD's fine since DVD's are much lower anyways.

kicks

06-17-06, 01:04 AM

Ok my A10 has picked up these strange channels. It's very koo but I don't know what channels they are. I only have basic cable from comcast but yesterday I discovered Sopranos playing on one channel 93.10 I think. Then now I have 3 movie channels. I check tvguide and there aren't doing the movies my tv is showing anywhere.

Also these channels go off line past about 2am and don't come on until around primetime 7pmish. But it also varies because Spiderman 2 was on on one of these channels, I don't remember which on.

Right now Hoodwinked is on channel 93.9

and The Garfield movie is on channel 93.7

Also there is some Stephen Douglas movie on channel 93.11 (looks like a recent movie)

What the hell channels are these?

Dark Rain

06-17-06, 01:24 AM

kicks

06-17-06, 01:34 AM

It's VOD leakage from your neighbors. Don't be surprised if you see some soft porn movie showing. ;)

I did see a soft porn movie just yesterday lol. But how is this leakage occuring and how I'm I picking it up, I don't have a set up box just the tv and cable from comcast.

Dark Rain

06-17-06, 01:37 AM

I did see a soft porn movie just yesterday lol. But how is this leakage occuring and how I'm I picking it up, I don't have a set up box just the tv and cable from comcast.

See other post you made.

LimitedEdition

06-17-06, 06:31 AM

basically what the title states: is the sony KFE50A10 HDCP compliant???

i was told all HDMI connections are HDCP compliant. however, i'm confused as to why sony doesn't advertise the benefit of their A10 models being HDCP compliant.

i view HDMI org and notice there are different versions of HDMI (1.3 being the latest) ... what effects if any does it have on our televisions? i'm within the 30 day no hassle return and beginning to think these older HD models just won't cut it with bluray and HDCP compliant devices!!!

seems like they want you to buy a new TV every 5 yrs now. crazy

skull1971

06-17-06, 09:16 AM

Having an issue with the 42A10. Not sure if anyone has seen this or not. In the last couple of a days, the screen looks very blurry and dark. It's hooked up via component to a Motorola Moxi @ 720P, I changed it to 1080I and it looked somewhat better. I thought it was the Moxi causing the issue until I played a game last night on the 360 (component @ 720P) same issues, blurry and dark. changed it to 1080i, and it looked somewhat better. I checked the cables, reset the 42A10 but to no avail. TV is less than 9 months old, and I have the extended warranty from Best Buy. Since it's still under warranty from Sony, should I call them or Best Buy? Or has someone seen this and been able to correct it. Thanks for your help

skull1971

06-17-06, 11:08 AM

Also just tested the DVD player(hooked up via HDMI) same issues blurry/distorted at 720P) but when you change it to 1080i it's no longer blurry.

Melanotheron

06-17-06, 11:52 AM

Not that a sit-com would be killer in 5.1.. so I don't really care.
Ooo The Office in 5.1! Was that Michelle behind me!?

You are right, ramsinks. After reading your post, I have paid close attention to the 5.1 effects on sitcoms and I don't think you are missing much. Mainly audience applause and laughter, the occasional door slam and cars going past you. The real difference is when you watch a movie.

atek99

06-17-06, 02:28 PM

cbagger01

06-17-06, 10:38 PM

So one person does see this, and one doesn't.

Would anyone else care to comment on this? It kinda really bothers me. I don't see how this set could be so popular if what I'm seeing is normal.

One of the big reasons I wanted an HDTV was for HD hockey, and like I said this greasy picture really shows up on whites :(

Maybe theres a thin layer of grease on the mirror?

Like others have said, this is called the "Silk Screen Effect" or SSE, and it is visible on TV shows that have a lot of white or near-white objects such as a hockey rink. It is caused by the bright light source (high intensity lamp) and the Anti-glare coating on your projection screen. It is not grease.

This problem exists for all Rear Projection Microdisplay televisions, including both LCD and DLP.

If you watch a lot of hockey, then my advice is to return the set and buy a flatscreen plasma or LCD tv instead of a projection set. A Panasonic plasma HDTV will suit your needs perfectly.

Otherwise, you can follow some of the other suggestions posted to make the best of the situation.

1) You need to reduce the brightness of your TV. Try Dark Rain's custom settings from the Grand Wega V Tweaks page in this forum. Or at least choose "CUSTOM" and reduce the Advanced iris to "2" or "1" and then lower the PICTURE setting to 80 or less.

2) Don't sit EXACTLY in front of the TV. Sit slightly to the left or the right of the TV screen. From the typical viewing distance of 7-12 feet, even moving a couple feet to the left or right could make a big difference.

Good Luck.

kicks

06-18-06, 01:05 AM

Close to the same...I have noticed that the 42 consistently appreas brighter and better brightness uniformity...I believe they use the same bulb which would make complete sense if the 42 was brighter and more uniform than the 50...its basically utilizing the "sweet spot" of the 50 with less brightness "fall off" around the edges. Buy the 42 and sit closer : )

Already bought it I was just wondering

david3000

06-18-06, 11:18 PM

OK. So the lamp is rated at 6000-8000 hours. Does anyone know the expected lifespan of the lcd panels?

NuckaMan

06-19-06, 11:39 AM

ramsinks

06-19-06, 12:17 PM

I'd get the 42. I sit about 8-9 feet back. It's sexy.
CC is where I bought mine, but check the "online only" prices and print that off and bring it in. Demand it in-store.
Thats what I did and it worked.
They told me I have 30days to bring it back if I'm not happy. They dont even require the box either. But they havent seen me back yet.
I'd go with the 42 and spend the $200 extra on a two year war. Thats the price of one bulb anyways.

tts42572

06-19-06, 02:33 PM

NuckaMan-

Keep in mind Sony is coming out with the E2000 Series in the next couple weeks and will have a 46 inch available. That might be the perfect size for you...right in between 42 & 50.

Model number is KDF-46E2000. I was told CC is going to be listing it at about $1,600 and the CC I was at offered to pre-order for me.

From what I've read, it'll be pretty similar to the A10 series. Will have an extra HDMI input and maybe a couple other small things.

Just something to consider.

tmeader

06-19-06, 02:43 PM

NuckaMan

06-19-06, 03:18 PM

tts42572 and tmeader-

Thank you so much for the heads up on the upcoming 46" Sony. That will have to be added into the equation.
Might sound like a really viable option for us.

Damn, with the technology moving so quickly and new product rolling out so often...seems like it's a never good time to buy.

I wonder if the tech-corp execs ever wonder about feeding the consumer so much technology and options, the consumer market starts to "heave" back the new stuff and stick or resort to the tried and true stuff. There has to be a marketing/product threshold...almost every market has one.

MDRNHL

06-19-06, 03:40 PM

I'm really considering this TV set after I saw the recent price drop (dropped it right into my range!!!). In fact, I'm going to visit CC today to check them out before I bring my wallet (my fiance) with me for the final purchase.

Question though, I know bigger is not always better, but I would like to to get the 50" over the 42", but furthest back I will be sitting is about 7.5 to 8 feet....no more then that due to the size of the room and TV placement/furniture placement.
According to most of the viewing distance vs. screen size charts....this puts me in the high range of a 42" screen.

You guys really recommend I go with the 42" to ensure a good picture quality?

And how is Circuit City, pretty good about taking things back in case it doesn't work out?

Hi there! I measured the viewing distance before I went to the showroom, and made sure to test it at that very distance. I dragged their viewing chair around and everything ;) My advice to you would be to do the same thing if you can...even if you have to do it at a different store then where you make your purchase at.

I also made them demo a HD, SD, and a DVD picture to make sure I was content.

We went with the 42, not so much because of the recommended viewing distance (which would have put us in the 50 range), but because it just worked better with the room layout and aesthetics. I guess my point is, the viewing range is important, but don't let that be your only deciding factor...figure out how each size is gonna 'work' with the room.

Good luck, and enjoy your Sony! We certainly do.

ramsinks

06-19-06, 04:12 PM

Ah, new models... coool.

Ya, man just like the video cards - it's never a good time to buy - but we must at some point huh?
;)

terzaghi

06-19-06, 04:47 PM

as i mentioned a little while back im going to be getting this tv soon- and i have a question from people who own this tv and use the xbox 360 with vga adaptor or any device connected through vga really.

im going to get either the component or vga cables for my 360, and from what i understand there have been reports of a 'black border' and 'flashing video 7' problems when using the vga input of this television. anyone have any comments or recomendations of component vs vga cables?

Fiend

06-19-06, 05:55 PM

They are virtually identical to the A10 series, however, while adding another HDMI port (HDMI only, no separate audio in) they also REMOVED CableCard and DSUB input from the E2000 series. You will likely be able to find the 50" A10 for 1700 in a couple weeks (already 1799 EVERYWHERE). With a 10%-12% off coupon or the like, you might want to consider the 50" A10 instead for the extra 4".

To add to the "shopping" advice...

When I bought my 50A10 at CC, it was actually cheaper in store when I got there FWIW...

But definitely look for a coupon to use in store... I don't know how much is allowed or not allowed here, but I got one off a very popular auction site for $1.50 mailed to my house... Saved me $180 on the set....

maverick0716

06-19-06, 09:17 PM

ronbo1011

06-19-06, 09:51 PM

Xbox 360 looks great on this tv through component......there's no need for VGA.

I agree component all the way.Looks awesome.

terzaghi

06-20-06, 12:04 AM

ok- sounds like component cables it is. i was under the impression that VGA was slighlty better then component- that is why i was asking. im not sure that the differenc would be noticeable anyway, and since others seem to have success with component cable i guess thats the way ill go... ;)

NuckaMan

06-20-06, 03:42 PM

Just wanted to say thanks to all that has replied to my questions on this thread.

I went ahead and got a 50A10 this morning. So far, I'm very satisfied. The picture quality is actually better then the retailer's floor model...especially for the SD channels, which was a nice surprise...and saved me the explaination of why the new TV PQ sucks for the non-HD channels compared to our old CRT to my fiance.

My viewing space is about 8.5 to 9 feet max in my little living room...I took a chance with the 50, VERY glad I did. The screen size is impressively big, but doesn't over power the room...and PQ is great from 7ft+ (no SDE for me). Plus I can sit back on my couch and watch TV with being fully involved in the picture...couldn't do it with my old 32" CRT. The integrated sound system is actually pretty good...another nice surprise.

Got it at a great price, easy to handle because of the wieght, and so far I'm impressed with it. Ask me in about a week or so to get a real honest answer.

Thanks to all again. I was very glad to find this website right before I made the purchase....the resources here helped me alot.

P.S. To those of you that care....XBOX 360 looks amazing on it. I'm using the standard component cables that came with the system.

tts42572

06-20-06, 04:30 PM

Glad to hear you took the plunge Nucka-

Would like to hear some of your comments after giving it some time to sink in.

I've been debating this purchase with myself. I was all ready to pull the trigger on the 50 A10 myself, but then didn't when I heard Sony was coming out with a 46. Viewing distance isn't so much my problem, but we have limited wall space where the TV will be going and 50 is really pushing it.

Anyways, I've been staring at the Sony A10's and Samsung DLP's for a few weeks now and think I've finally decided I like the Sony picture better. Just seems like a "smoother" picture or something. Hard to explain.

I've been comparing technologies trying to figure out LCD RP or DLP is the "better" choice in terms of "future value" and durability. Comments I've gotten and read in other threads make me think it's pretty much split both ways. Some favor DLP and think it's the future of RP TV, while others would take the Sony LCD RP any day.

Personally, I guess it comes down to personal preference and comfort level with the brand and store you're purchasing from.

One thing I have decided for sure is that I'm making sure I get an extended warranty either from the store or perhaps from Tapeworks. I don't trust any of the technologies enough not to get one. And if I can get one that covers bulbs, it's almost a no-brainer.

kicks

06-20-06, 04:47 PM

kicks

06-20-06, 04:54 PM

I bought the 42A10 about 3 weeks ago, at first it was huge to me, but now it's starting to look small. I been to the store a few times and they had the 50" next to the 42" model, I was amazed that the 42" looked even smaller compared to the 50" and it's only supposed to be 8" difference but it definately looks alot bigger than it. Almost looks like a 36" compared to a 50". I feel that I should just keep it cuz if I get the 50" then when the 55" comes out the 50 will start looking bigger. It's pretty much a never ending cycle, until you end up with a really big screen that is too big for your own good. The main reason I went with the 42" is because of my viewing distance which is about 6-7 feet and still sometimes I see SDE so the 50 would have been too much, but still sometimes I do wonder lol.

tmeader

06-20-06, 04:55 PM

It's the exact same bulb for the E2000's as the A10's.

Melanotheron

06-20-06, 05:05 PM

because of my viewing distance which is about 6-7 inches and still sometimes I see SDE

Don't sit so darn CLOSE! You'll put your eye out or something!

kicks

06-20-06, 05:07 PM

Don't sit so darn CLOSE! You'll put your eye out or something!

I meant 6-7 feet my bad

softgun

06-20-06, 05:12 PM

anilr

06-20-06, 05:22 PM

I have had the 50a10 for 9 days now - got it from costco for under $2k including the stand. My previous TV was a 25" SD. My first impression when I got it in my living room was "Wow, this TV looks so much bigger in my house than it did in the store" and my viewing distance is around 12', a bit more than some other posters on this thread - amazing HD picture, have been enjoying world cup, NBA finals, movies, DVDs, discovery hd etc and have simply been amazed at the sharp details both in bright and dark scenes. My room has a lot of south-facing windows and can get really bright during the day, I just increase the iris by 1 or 2 settings for daytime viewing and it just looks fantastic with no glare.
I have become so spoiled by the hd programming that I do not even want to watch SD programming any more (even though this TV does a good job with SD programming).

biggorilla

06-20-06, 06:10 PM

I have hovered around this thread for sometime now and I am hoping I can find a solution to my problem. I have owned the 50" A10 since Nov. 05 purchased from the now closed Good Guys out here on the west coast. I hooked up a DIRECTV HR10250 via HDMI and had no troubles for a few months.

:( Shortly after the first of the year, every now and then when I turned the TV on, the picture would flash on and off. I would turn off the TV and turn it back on and it seemed to fix the problem.

:( In February I added a Denon DVD-1920 via HDMI through a Gefen 2x1 HDMI switcher. Aside from some IR conflicts, this set up worked great with the occasional flicker screen mentioned above.

:mad: Last week, when I turned on the TV to watch the HR10250, I got the same on and off flashing but nothing I did would correct it. I switched to the DVD player via HDMI and I got no picture at all, yet the DVD player appeared to be connected (there is a small indicator light). I turned everything off and no help. I took the switcher out of the loop, no help. I used 3 different HDMI cables no help.

:confused: Component works fine for everything, but I gotta say that I see the HDMI difference. I called Sony and they say it's a bad HDMI input on the TV. I guess I am posting this so others may comment before I shuffle off to the ole' Sony Repair store (Good Guys in closed and cannot handle the warranty). I have been searching other boards to see if anyone else has had this experience. I love this TV and I am bummed 7 months in and it needs fixin'.

:cool: Cheers! Eric

MDRNHL

06-20-06, 10:56 PM

Hey guys,

anyone know a good place to get a replacement bulb for the a10? My bulb hasnt gone out, but i figured it would be a good idea to have one on hand whenver it does go out.

Is Sony Style the only place? I found one SONY XL-2400 on eBay, going for $159 + $15 shipping. Brand new in box.

One of the problems with buying a bulb before you need one is: what if they only have a short return policy? You'd want to make sure that sucker worked right away, and not find its defective half a year down the road, or sometime out of the return window.

rifleman69

06-21-06, 12:01 AM

[QUOTE=biggorilla]I have hovered around this thread for sometime now and I am hoping I can find a solution to my problem. I have owned the 50" A10 since Nov. 05 purchased from the now closed Good Guys out here on the west coast. I hooked up a DIRECTV HR10250 via HDMI and had no troubles for a few months.

:( Shortly after the first of the year, every now and then when I turned the TV on, the picture would flash on and off. I would turn off the TV and turn it back on and it seemed to fix the problem.

/QUOTE]

Did your tv ever get the update, sounds like the exact problem the update was supposed to fix.

Enter your serial number at http://www.updatemytv.com and see what it says, pretty sure your tv fits the date criteria like mine did (although mine didn't have the problems your's has).

biggorilla

06-21-06, 12:47 AM

[QUOTE=rifleman69] Did your tv ever get the update, sounds like the exact problem the update was supposed to fix.[QUOTE]

I got the update, right after I read it was available. I had hoped that would fix it too but alas no. Still stuck with a bum HDMI input, I guess.

beyonder

06-21-06, 07:28 AM

BSTNFAN

06-21-06, 09:24 AM

Just got the 50 A10 this past weekend. Great TV. I want to thank everyone on this forum for all their inputs and suggestions. I do have one more question. I have Time Warner Cable via cable box. Should I get the cable card? Currently I don't have any HD channels. Would the cable card give me as least a few HD channels (off air)? What about the quality of the picture of the box vs. card?

Thanks again.

The cablecard is programmed by your service provider to give you the channels you have subscribed to. It's only function is to replace a box (but you lose the guide/VOD, etc.). I recommend you split the cable (hopefully, you have decent signal strength) and send it directly into the cable input of the A10. Do a channel search and see what comes up. On my system (Comcast), that would give you all of the locals in HD plus all the unscrambled analog/digital channels available. You can still use your cable box (if necessary) for any scrambled channels you subscribe to.

As far as quality goes; all reports indicate that the picture quality of the A10 tuner directly or through cablecard is better than using a box. If you don't need the guide or VOD, that would be your best bet. Keep in mind that you will need a service call and there are numerous reports of the cards having problems working right.

Taxman71

06-21-06, 11:41 AM

At the risk of beating a dead horse, I must ask for your expert opinions. I have the 50 inch A10 and need to get a new DVD player (don't ask why). Knowing that HD-DVD/Blu-ray is a ways off, I am considering the following and would like any input or recommendations:

1. Sony NS75H. HDMI, upconverting, can use one remote for both TV and DVD player.

2. Yamaha S550. Matches my setup which is all black and a Yamaha receiver. Durable and long-lasting.

Any comments on whether the HDMI or upconverting is of any benefit with the A10 over just the progressive scan over component? This DVD player will be a stop-gap for a few years most likely and I do not want to shell out any more than $150 or so right now.

Thanks in advance.

brookspw

06-21-06, 03:17 PM

Hey, guys, hope you can help me here.

My 50A10 has developed a "problem". It is fed by a Motorola 6412 DVR/HD box. When you turn the TV on, it comes up with the input graphic listing that the input is set to cable box. This is correct.

However, this is displayed on a black screen with no volume. Kind of like if you had it input from a DVD that was turned off.

You can't input a channel, scroll up on channels, etc. Nothing.

However, if I go to the DVR -- as if to watch a recorded show -- then stop the DVR playback it will then display the proper channel and work as normal.

Any suggestions or does this appear to be a Moto box problem?

BSTNFAN

06-21-06, 04:18 PM

Cameron3395

06-21-06, 05:12 PM

Do you have to worry about burn in with this TV?

rifleman69

06-21-06, 05:27 PM

It's a well known Moto box problem. The only known solution is the DVR method you are using. Most people just leave their box on 24/7 (it doesn't really turn off anyway) which solves the problem.

I'm trying to understand why anyone would turn their box off, more wear and tear turning it on and off than anything else. Same thing with just regular boxes, satellite boxes, computers, etc...

I guess it's one thing if you're gone for more than a couple of days and don't have anything planned to record, but normal use doesn't need the on-off at all.

JMHO

brookspw

06-21-06, 06:54 PM

I'm trying to understand why anyone would turn their box off, more wear and tear turning it on and off than anything else. Same thing with just regular boxes, satellite boxes, computers, etc...

I guess it's one thing if you're gone for more than a couple of days and don't have anything planned to record, but normal use doesn't need the on-off at all.

JMHO

I DON'T turn off the Moto box, never have.

Melanotheron

06-21-06, 08:32 PM

I DON'T turn off the Moto box, never have.
Do you have it hooked up via HDMI? You may want to try component and see if that helps. The Motorola box sometimes has an HDMI handshake problem and it does what you describe. On mine, if I left it tuned to a HD channel, whenever I went to the input I had a multiple image on the screen. If I hit "menu" or changed channels, it went back to normal. I never turned my box off either. Now that I am hooked up via component, no more problems. You may also want to call your cable company and see if you can get a newer Moto.

ramsinks

06-22-06, 02:18 AM

Hey Bigg, maybe i skimmed your post too quickly but the issue could be a bad HDMI cable or even a faulty powre source (surg ect).

Congrats Nucka~~
Let me know what your PC settings are after a week or so.
I think I'm dialed in pretty good.

Sean4

06-22-06, 10:56 AM

philherz

06-22-06, 11:07 AM

HELP!

1. The 5086 picture is built from 7 colors, not 3 like the Wega. The picture colors on the 5086 floor model did look much more vibrant to me.

I'll leave a complete reply to the real pros, but keep in mind that the manufacturers have factory settings for thier pictures that are way too vivid for most people's taste...they're designed to catch your attention in a store, but drive most people crazy over time......

tmeader

06-22-06, 11:27 AM

I'm not a "real pro" by any means, but I can answer a few:

1) Agree with philherz... it's impossible to tell from the showroom floor, and without knowing what settings each TV was on
2) What type of connections? If it has two HDMI's, that is a nice feature, but not necessarily a deal breaker for me. As for the others, the Sony has plenty of component/composite inputs in my view
3) That's a total lie
4) Again, depending on the person, that's a lie. I have yet to see any DLP on a showroom floor where I CAN'T see the rainbows. It depends entirely on you though. If you are one of the lucky ones that can't see the rainbows, than a DLP might be a great option for you. Otherwise, it doesn't seem to matter how fast the wheels are, I've always been able to see them. Some people also get a DLP, and then months later have something go off in their head where now they CAN see the rainbows. I'm not trying to scare you, but just advise you of the actual reality of DLP sets at the moment. The coming LED based DLP's will at least address this rainbow issue though, so if you are seriously considering DLP now, it might be worth waiting around for those.
5) Please ask the salesman to explain to you what a "game port" is... good lord, some of these guys are unbelievable. What I'm sure he was trying to refer to was the "game mode" of the TV, which basically turns off all picture correction/enhancement circuitry in order to get the picture displayed as fast as possible to the screen to prevent lag in games (ie, the time between when you hit a button on the controller and when the thing on screen responds). Short answer to this is that the 50A10 doesn't have a game mode, because it doesn't need one. It's fine by default. Samsung added the game mode to their DLP's because they were notorious for lag in games. The "game mode" he's talking about is not a bonus FEATURE... it's a PATCH to fix a standing problem with their sets.
6) While the screen on that particular DLP might be high quality, again, this is a lie. What he's referring to is an actual LCD PANEL, not a rear projection LCD set like the 50A10. You should be fine. Though, I would advise you to try and avoid punching your TV whenever possible if you can help it :)

In short, this guy has no idea what he is talking about, is a lying a-hole, and should be fired.

Hope this helps.

ramsinks

06-22-06, 11:42 AM

Do they ever know what there talking about?
When I go to buy something like this , I have done my reserch for a long time - and just walk in demanding a certain model #. I don't care what a sales person has to say.
At this point, I know more then they do.

I looked at the A10 next to a Samsung DLP - the DLP looked like crap (pixleated) compaired to the Sony. DLP's to me are just pixlated. nasty. blah. poopy.

Dark Rain

06-22-06, 12:02 PM

HELP!

I am not an A-V expert, so please bear with me. I’m just an average Joe trying to make the right decision on a TV that the family will live with for a *long* time.

I went to Store A pretty certain I was going to buy the Sony Wega 50” HD LCD as they currently have a great sale price on it. The expert and user reviews I found on the web showed widespread satisfaction with the Wega, so this seemed like a solid safe pick. Store A’s salesman tried to talk me into the Samsung HLS5086, however. Here’s the reasons why he recommended the Samsung:

1. The 5086 picture is built from 7 colors, not 3 like the Wega. The picture colors on the 5086 floor model did look much more vibrant to me.
2. The Samsung has more connections for accessories.
3. The Wega would require an additional accessory of some sort (i.e., more $) to receive local channels in HD.
4. The rainbow and video noise issues of DLPs have been adequately fixed.
5. The HLS5086 has a game port for video games (not a big deal for us now, but I think it will be come one as my boys get older).
6. Now this is the interesting reason: the 5086 screen is more tolerant of being physically struck. The salesman saw my 5-yr-old and stopped what he was explaining and said “watch this”. He then punched the 5086 screen hard. Real hard. No effect on the TV (as far as I could tell). He said you can’t do that to an LCD without damaging it. I was impressed. Can anyone give me some more insight into this “vulnerability” issue between LCDs and DLPs?

I went to Store A confident that I was going to make a purchase, but I left with the need to do more research. I went to Store B to pick their brains. The salesman in Store B recommended the Sony Wega because it’s picture is crisper/sharper/more-detailed. They had the Wega and the 42” Samsung DLP side-by-side and they ran a demo video through both. Sure enough, I did see more crisp details on the Wega.

I am appealing to you for any advise/information that can help me choose between these two TVs (the Sony 50” Wega HD LCD and the Samsung HLS5086W).

Thank you!

(P.S. I apologize for the identical cross-post from another thread, but navigating through this forum is very confusing)

Questions 3 and 6 are BS.

- The Sony has a built in digital tuner. All you need is a cheap $20 antenna to get locals in HD.

- Why would anyone buy a TV based on how well it can withstand a blow from a fist? It's nice to know, but is there any evidence that Samsung makes a screen made out of bulletproof plastic? I think that salesman is getting some payola from Samsung.

The Samsung will have better contrast and deeper blacks. PQ-wise this is about its only strength. Rainbows are still there AFAIK. The Sony looks great in a room with some light.

If you tend to watch a lot of SD content, the Sony does a better job at upconverting the signal to 720p. I've read many complaints about the Samsung's SD picture. It's debatable, but I've seen several people switch from the Samsung to the Sony because of this reason alone.

The Sony does have some issues with color blotches. They are faint and for most people they aren't a problem. They really only appear when viewing B&W content.

SDE or screen door effect is another issue with the Sony. If you sit at a reasonable distance (7'-9') you probably won't see it.

cbagger01

06-22-06, 01:03 PM

One of the problems with buying a bulb before you need one is: what if they only have a short return policy? You'd want to make sure that sucker worked right away, and not find its defective half a year down the road, or sometime out of the return window.

Yes,

But one of the problems with NOT buying a bulb is:

What do you do when you invite a dozen people to come over and watch the big game and then your installed bulb dies on you and you don't have a replacement on-hand?

It never dies when you are alone at night and leaving the next day for your 2 week vacation.

If convenience has any value to you, you should have a spare bulb on hand and take the "risk" that it MIGHT be defective.

Sean4

06-22-06, 01:09 PM

Thanks for the help philherz, tmeader, ramsinks, and Dark Rain!

1. OK, I understand it is impossible to comment on the color appearance. Should I focus my evaluation on the "crispness" of the pictures instead of the "colors"?
2. I think the Samsung has 2 HDMIs while the Wega has 1. Not sure whether this should be an issue for me.
3. I thought the salesman said that the Sony did not have a built-in tuner, but I'm probably confused. He kept stressing that there was something that was built-in to the Samsung that the Wega did not have.
4. I will go back and try to see the rainbows. It's not something I saw when I was at the store, but I certainly don't want to "discover" it when I am enjoying my new TV.
5. Interesting comment about Samsung's "game mode". The salesman was touting the Samsung as a better TV for gameplay. I'm going to ask him about this.
6. Well, if you ever saw my 2-yr-old in action, you would understand why this impressed me. Seriously, while I recognized that his display was pure "showmanship", it did make me wonder whether either the DLP or the LCD technologies were particularly "fragile". I have scary visions of a major family purchase getting accidentally "whacked".

SD? Is that just plain old standard TV? If so, yes, we will watch a lot of regular TV stuff. I have a regular cable connection that I expect to upgrade to whatever digital/HD package they offer, but my undertsanding is that the HD stuff is only a portion of what will be available.

FYI, this TV will be in a *very* large room with lots of light. Seats will be about 9 feet away, with additional seating about 15 feet away.

tmeader

06-22-06, 02:02 PM

If there's a lot of light, I'd opt for the Sony. Personally, if it's the model Samsung I'm thinking of, I was more impressed by the quality of Sony's blacks than I was by the Samsung's. While it's true that the DLP may give you deeper blacks, that often comes with a loss of shadow detail. In other words, DLP's can make darker blacks, but their drop-off point before going to all black instead of simply progressively deeper shades of grey occurs before the A10's. "Black crush" is the term I believe. Think of watching a show where someone is wearing a tux. On the DLP, the tux might appear darker, but at the same time, you might not be able to make out the slight highlights or texture of the fabric itself as you would with a set that can show more distinguishable shades of grey. This is something to consider.

The Samsung is definitely NOT a "better" TV for gameplay. It may be equal to the Sony once the "game mode" is enabled, but in no way is it better. That is just a complete lie on his part, or his misunderstanding of what the point of game mode is in the first place. Just do a search for "game lag" on this forum, and you'll see that 95% (estimating here, just making a point) of the posts are in reference to DLP sets.

As for the rainbows, make sure to tell him to put on something with a very light object against a black background. Especially if there's motion in such a scene, you will VERY easily see it if you're susceptible. Also, make sure to move your head around a bit, and at different angles when looking for it. Remember, at some point you will likely not be watching this set in a perfectly upright, perfectly centered position... so see how it looks from every situation (in regards to the rainbow effect). Again, I'm not trying to scare you, but realize that, though you may not see them, others might. If your buddies come over once in a while to watch something... they probably aren't too big a concern. But if your wife or kids see the rainbows, you might want to take that into account. Trust me, once you see them, it's almost IMPOSSIBLE not to notice them once in a while. If you happen to have a Costco near you, you could always try to get the set there if they have it, if you're concerned about seeing the rainbows later on. Their prices are normally pretty reasonable, and their return policy is ridiculous. People have returned stuff to them a year later, no questions asked. Might want to do a search on here actually and see if you can find any threads on sources to easily see rainbows on. Perhaps if there's a DVD that you already have in the list, you could take that to the store and use it to test.

As for question 3, honestly I don't know what he could be talking about. Far as I know, they both have an ATSC and QAM tuner (for over the air digital/HD, basic cable digital/HD respectively), and I know that the A10 at least has a Cablecard slot even (though note that the new E2000 model of the 50A10 does not have a Cablecard slot).

Finally, about the screen toughness, I would think that if he did the same test on the 50A10 it might fair similarly to the Samsung (though I won't be trying it on mine, sorry ;)). The "LCD" he's referring to is the LCD PANEL, think like your computer monitor, if it's a flat screen. Just press, even lightly, on your computer monitor and you can see the effect it has on the liquid crystal panels inside. The same would happen with an LCD PANEL tv, like the Sony Bravia line for instance. However, the 50A10 is a rear projection set... just like the Samsung (and all DLPs). In this scenario, when you press on the screen, you are pressing on only that, just the piece of plastic. The actual optics of the set are never touched. In fact, if you want to look at it that way, the DLP and 3-panel LCD sets are the same TV, just with different "display engines". That's an over simplification, but hopefully you see what I'm getting at. Now, one thing you SHOULD be concerned about in regards to the screen is whether or not the DLP screen is reflective or not. The Sony's has a matte, textured finish, which very effectively reduces the glare that you'd experience when an old CRT TV was placed opposite a light source, like a window or lamp. If the DLP has a reflective screen, the reflections from the window and lamp will show up on the screen just like an old style set. You did mention that the TV room will be bright, but not whether or not there would be a reflective light source. Definitely take this into account in your decision.

Without giving exact prices, and out of curiosity, which TV costs more? Am I right in assuming the Samsung?

Taxman71

06-22-06, 02:14 PM

I can attest the Sammy still has rainbows. Aside from the other advantages of the Sony (less moving parts, picture, etc.) I always have seen rainbows on every DLP I have ever seen. You may not.

Sean4

06-22-06, 02:36 PM

Yes, there's a lot of daylight during the day. And there can be a lot of reflective light at times. There is no overhead lighting, only a bunch of lamps. The room is fairly dark at night. This will definitely be an important consideration in this room.

Aah, now I understand what "black crush" is. Yes, I would prefer the detailed dark grays over a flat black.

Thanks for the clarification on the screen toughness issue. When he demonstrated this I immediately thought of a flat panel computer monitor. I didn't realize that LCD rear projection sets are different.

The regular prices for the two sets are the same, but the current sale price for the Sony is 10% less. Close enough that I will base my decision solely on picture quality and hardware quality.

Thanks again, tmeader! That was *very* helpful.

softgun

06-22-06, 03:09 PM

MDR cbagger, you guys both make good points. I sort of feel that the dread of not having an HDTV to watch for a couple weeks due to bulb shipping lag would be unbearable.

I mean....I guess I could always test the new bulb, but I'm afraid I'd mess something up internally with all the bulb replacing.

Has anyone here had to buy a new bulb yet...?

rascal7298

06-22-06, 03:40 PM

Some background info. I haven't bought a TV in over 15 years and until recently only had rabbit ears. I like to read and listen to music so TV was never that important. The true reason why I'm getting a TV is because of my love for the Denver Broncos (yes I'm getting the nfl package from directTV). I could always watch them on the local station but since I had to move they are not on the local stations (Dallas Cowboys and/or Chiefs).

I looked up consumerreports and they listed this TV has one of their recommended buys and it was in my price range.

But some things have me concerned that I hope you could address for me.

1) I've heard that the power supply hardware inside Sony's are horrible. And replacing it is just as costly as a new TV.

2) Talk about having to calibrate it before I can use it. Surely there is some kind of automated calibration feature. Or do I need to find somebody to professionally do that? If so that practically eliminates it IMO.

3) I've heard that overall the DLP technology is better? Is this true?

edit 4) I also just found a Sony KDS-R60XBR1 in my price range (won't say what or where per forum rules). Is the 60" worth the price difference? This will be site unseen unfortunately.

Thanks in advance,

rascal

gwsmith

06-22-06, 03:59 PM

<snip>1) I've heard that the power supply hardware inside Sony's are horrible. And replacing it is just as costly as a new TV.

2) Talk about having to calibrate it before I can use it. Surely there is some kind of automated calibration feature. Or do I need to find somebody to professionally do that? If so that practically eliminates it IMO.

3) I've heard that overall the DLP technology is better? Is this true?

Thanks in advance,

rascal1) Never heard that, or experienced it....if it bothers you get an extended warranty.

2) You don't have to calibrate....you've been reading too much. I've had 2 A10's and both looked great right out of the box.

3) No. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. I like LCD RP better because all other things being fairly equal, IMO, I don't care for the idea of a color wheel spinning at 10,000 rpm. ;)

ramsinks

06-22-06, 05:19 PM

SD? I just put up a good $100 outside antenna. Now I get about 15 HD channles and this covers all major networks. I'll never watch SD again.
Having a PC connected allows me to d/l any shows I missed.. so no need for a tivo.
;)

For tunning, just spend the 20 bucks or so and get Avid or DVD Ess. Or there was another person here that made there own.. that was a 20$ donation.. pretty good. Just go through one of those.

philherz

06-22-06, 05:26 PM

2) Talk about having to calibrate it before I can use it. Surely there is some kind of automated calibration feature. Or do I need to find somebody to professionally do that? If so that practically eliminates it IMO.

rascal

I know there are some advocates of calibrating these, but the vast majority of comments about adjustments have to do with making the initial factory picture settings much less "vivid."

Although there are some that keep adjusting indefinitely, I think most people do a quick adjustment, say it looks OK, and never it change it after.....

(See Dark Rain's settings as a good starting point....)

REFLEX

06-22-06, 06:25 PM

Iam a huge gamer and I play games on my SONY every day pretty much, no lag what so ever.... couldnt be happier with this TV looks great. cant wait for the ps3 in november!

kicks

06-22-06, 07:50 PM

Ok just got back from Sears, they have the 50" and 42" right next to each other. I finally got to get a good glimpse so I can judge the size. The 50" isn't that much bigger than the 42" for the most part it's the wideness that is the most apparent. I'm finally happy with the 42" and I will not upgrade to the 50".

lastplace

06-22-06, 10:49 PM

Taxman71

06-23-06, 10:19 AM

I bought the Terk 5 antenna for about fifty bucks and it works great for all HD OTA.

Indiana627

06-23-06, 12:50 PM

I bought the Terk 5 antenna for about fifty bucks and it works great for all HD OTA.
I have the same antenna and am amazed by the results. And mine only cost $40!

MDRNHL

06-23-06, 03:23 PM

Yes,

But one of the problems with NOT buying a bulb is:

What do you do when you invite a dozen people to come over and watch the big game and then your installed bulb dies on you and you don't have a replacement on-hand?

It never dies when you are alone at night and leaving the next day for your 2 week vacation.

If convenience has any value to you, you should have a spare bulb on hand and take the "risk" that it MIGHT be defective.

A valid point as well ;)

I guess its a gamble either way!

RassilonZero

06-24-06, 11:00 PM

Im looking for a 50" HDTV (i'm currently considering the sony kdf-e50a10 and the samsung hl-s5086 sets), and will be using it for a lot of gaming, mostly consoles but also some PC games.

So far i've mostly only seen anyone here mention PS2 or xbox.
But how is this set with older game systems?
I play neo-geo more than ps2/ps1, and i occasionally like to fire up my turbo-duo, sega genesis, saturn, SNES or NES (among others).
My neo-geo has component out (a custom mod), but the rest are composite/s-video.
Anyone have any experiences to share?

rollyfoster

06-25-06, 01:51 PM

I just played an NES on a 50" and it worked out fine. I've tried an XBOX, a 360, an NES, a N64 and a gamecube and don't have anything bad to say about any of them (NES on the 50 is loads of fun). The good thing is there are plenty of inputs and you can set picture settings for each one to optimize your game picture. I've got my 360, N64, and gamecube plugged in all the time and each one is tweaked to look as good as I can get it.

d-v-c

06-25-06, 04:05 PM

Same goes for VGA, so Sony scales it so that there is about a 1" visible black border around the VGA input. So, by using the VGA input, putting it in "zoom" (I forgot which zoom mode) it will use all 1280x720 pixels, but some of the screen won't be visible. So using powerstrip, you are fitting the display area to the amount of visible pixels on the A10, which happens to be that odd res mentioned above (1224x688).

You certainly made sense to me. But here's a question. My set does not center the VGA screen in the center of the physical screen. There's about 2 inches on the top and none on the bottom. Is there anyway to move the VGA display upward?

Another question or two:

1) My Dell laptop has the latest ATI Catalyst drivers from Dell -- it has no setting for either 1920x1080 or 1280x720. The closest is 1280x768. Is there some magic to get these two frame sizes to show-up as options?

2) My NLE software will send 1280x720 video out the second VGA/DVI port. Unfotunately, it is way too saturated! The Sony has no Saturation control on the VGA input.

When I bring-up WMP -- and access the ATI OVERLAY tab, and adjust Saturation, it changes the my laptop's WMP overlay, but not the second output.

Interestingly, the ATI's Color tab does not have a Saturation control. This seems like a very odd restriction. If I could adjust it for the main monitor I expect it would also adjust the second monitor.

Perhaps the DVI input has a Saturation control. So what happens if I feed it via DVI? I'm not looking for 1:1 mapping, just a full-screen display of 1280x720 video from my PC.

If I send it 1280x768 -- will in scale it to 1280x720 or to 1224x688 or just display only 1224x688 of the 1280x768?

BSparks294

06-25-06, 07:05 PM

Yawny

06-25-06, 09:37 PM

Hi all,

Well I finally solved my CableCARD problem. The card was not being recognized by the TV, so Sony replaced the "Q" Box assembly which I was told was causing the problem on not only my set, but many others as well. Sure enough, when inserting the card, it was recognized immediately and all is well with the CableCARD.

But what about my subject title you ask? Well, when going into the Applications Menu after setting up the CableCARD, I noticed something interesting when looking at Diagnostics. My firmware now shows a version of 1.31, up from v1.20 that the previous Sony update installed. When looking at the Service Menu display, my firmware now shows:

ATI : H05-01.31
SAIPH PROGRAM: 1.200
BOOT: 1.000
NVM: 1.200-1233
CHIMERA PROGRAM: 1.140
PACK: 1.061
OSD: 0.300
BOOT: 0.004
NVM A0: 2.000
NVM AC: 5.260
NVM AE: ----
HDMI: 1.300

Don't know why replacing that unit would have anything to do with the firmware being updated, or what the new version fixes or addresses. Maybe someone can find out. Just wanted to let everyone know that there may be newer firmware out there...

JimP

06-25-06, 10:12 PM

Yawny

Please double check the HDMI entry. You may have gotten lucky with the 1.3 upgrade.

Yawny

06-25-06, 10:34 PM

Yawny

Please double check the HDMI entry. You may have gotten lucky with the 1.3 upgrade.I just finished the red push tweak for the HDMI input that I hadn't changed before I hooked up my SA8300HD DVR. I'm looking at the SM display right now and I can confirm that HDMI is 1.300. Although my original value for HDMI was already at 1.300 before Sony upgraded the firmware from H05-01.15 to H05-01.20...

JimP

06-25-06, 10:40 PM

Yawny,

Don't know what to make of that. Maybe there is a difference between HDMI software version 1.3 and HDMI 1.3.

By the way, how does it look with the red push fix?

lastplace

06-26-06, 08:07 AM

I bought the Sony KDFE42A10 last year and was planning on getting the Sony extended contract before the original warranty expired. Some have said you can get it up to 11 months after purchase.

BUT, when I look on the Sony site, it specifically says that "if you have purchased your set within the last 60 days..."

That seems like the warranty must be purchased within 60 days. Am I correct?
If so, that makes me irritated at myself for overlooking that detail.

BTW I love my TV, a larger one would have been great but I did not have the room.

Thanks, Brad

This is from an e-mail from sony

In regard to your inquiry, you may purchase a service plan through Sony Style within 11 months from when the product was purchased. Please contact a sales representative at 1-877-865-SONY (option 1) for information and assistance in purchasing a plan

Sean4

06-26-06, 09:36 AM

Taxman71

06-26-06, 10:08 AM

If you do not receive all of your local OTA HD channels, I highly recommend the Terk 5 antenna (see posts above). For about $50, it brings in all my local HD channels flawlessly.

Still wondering on the DVD upgrade issue myself.

tmeader

06-26-06, 10:29 AM

Sean4, my pleasure helping out.

And in response to Taxman71's suggestion, though the picture quality might be slightly degraded due to compression, don't forget that most cable systems will allow you to still view all the digital/high def channels on their system (minus the ones that would require a package upgrade to view) simply by plugging in the cable line directly to the TV itself... no need for a new box. Something to keep in mind.

lastplace

06-26-06, 11:37 AM

Thanks to all who replied to my earlier query (esp. tmeader). I decided to get the KDF-E50A10. I am picking it up at my local AV store later this week.

I will be adding the Wega to a new Onkyo receiver, and will be buying a new Polk 5-speaker surround sound package. I also have an old dual DVD-VCR player.

I have two questions for you AV experts:

1. What accessories (cables, antenna, etc.) do I need (both type and capability)? I want to avoid buying things I don't need or paying for "super-duper" grade items that aren't necessary.

2. Is there any need to upgrade or augment the DVD player right now? Will it hinder the Wega's performance?

Depending on your set up you may need:
-An optical cable from your tv to your amp. (also stereo cables for non-digital sound)
-Componet cables from your DVD Player to the TV.
-A coaxial cable from your DVD to Amp for digital sound
-speaker cable

Check out monprice.com for cables, great prices

For antenna info go to antennaweb.org, load your address and drill down to digital channels then your street map.

crash1977

06-26-06, 11:48 AM

I purchased a KFE-50A10 a few weeks ago. I returned the first set because the image was titled to the right, such that the CNN ticker bar and other onscreen menu items looked lopsided. I exchanged it and received another set, but this time the image was titled to the left, and had some burnt pixels. I am expecting another TV to arrive in the next two weeks. Does anyone here have a set that does NOT have a slightly tilted image?

supersalo

06-26-06, 01:07 PM

Yawny

06-26-06, 04:24 PM

Has anyone noticed a difference between 720p and 1080i when hooked up to the SA8300HD DVR?

I've got the 8300 set to output only @ 1080i. Some channels (ESPN-HD, ABC-HD) are broadcast in 720p, so the 8300 'upconverts' them (and it looks great). I set the 8300 to output 720p and the PQ looked the same. Is the 8300 *that* good at upconverting, or do I just have bad eyes? ;-)The A10's native resolution is 720p and converts everything before it displays it on the screen. I have my 8300HD connected by HDMI and have it set to "Auto DVI/HDMI" which is the same as "Pass-Through" if you're connected by component, and let the A10 do all the upscaling/conversion for whatever signal it receives. The least amount of conversion the better I would think...

supersalo

06-26-06, 04:29 PM

I also have it connected with HDMI, but I don't have the option for 'Auto/DVI/HDMI'. My 8300HD makes me specify which resolutions to enable on the output (480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i).

It sounds like the best bet (ie, least amount of conversion) is to leave 720p and 1080i enabled and deal with the 1 sec lag when switching channels that are output in different resolutions (ie, ESPNHD (720p) to NBCHD (1080i)).

rexdart

06-26-06, 04:50 PM

I'm close to buying my third A10 (long story) and have a question...

Do we know yet what if any signal degradation you get using an HDMI splitter?

The price on the A10 has gotten to a good place for me, I understand the value of two HDMI ports (far more useful to me than a cablecard slot whose only role for me will be in the back of my series 3 TiVo), so having only one in the A10 will eventually necessitate the use of a splitter such as those from monoprice. Since the new models with the 2 ports start at 46", the A10 is a better bet since even 42" is nearly too large for my small space (not to mention the ever dropping price).

Again, has anyone used one enough to tell if you take a hit at all?

tmeader

06-26-06, 05:01 PM

I think what you're asking about is a "switcher" not a "splitter". In the case of a switcher, no, there will be no signal degradation at all.

Yawny

06-26-06, 05:01 PM

I mentioned a couple posts up that Sony just replaced the "Q" Box for the CableCARD problem I was having. Before closing up the back cover, the tech fired up the set to see if the repair was successful, which it was.

I have always thought since the set was new that there was an unusual amount of fan noise. But with the back cover off and the set on, the two fans (one for the "Q" Box and one for the bulb), were whisper quiet. There is another noise that can be heard that seems to be coming from deeper inside the TV.

It's definitely something spinning as it puts out what I can describe as a low harmonic, and when the set shuts off after cooling the bulb, I can hear it spin down. What else is in there that spins that might make such a noise?? Is there another fan for the bulb back there??

The tech was reluctant to take the top cover off so we could take a look, as it wasn't part of the "repair". I'm thinking about doing it myself, but don't want to void my warranty if I screw something up. Anyone have any ideas as to what this noise might be?? Thanks for any help or insight.

rexdart

06-26-06, 05:04 PM

I think what you're asking about is a "switcher" not a "splitter". In the case of a switcher, no, there will be no signal degradation at all.

jeez, you're right tmeader, sorry about that.

thanks for the reply, I was just looking for a little reassurance.

Yawny

06-26-06, 05:37 PM

I also have it connected with HDMI, but I don't have the option for 'Auto/DVI/HDMI'. My 8300HD makes me specify which resolutions to enable on the output (480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i).If you haven't already, you need to run the Set-Up Wizard for the box so it knows which format your TV is and what resolutions it accepts. To run the wizard, make sure the box is OFF and the TV is ON and you have the HDMI input selected. Then press the Guide and Info buttons on the box at the same time. The Wizard will start and just follow the prompts. I suggest choosing the Advanced Set-Up when given the choice and accept all the standard resolutions i.e. 480i, 480p, 720p and 1080i.

After the wizard completes go to the General Settings Menu on the box by pressing the Settings button twice on your remote. Then press the Up Arrow 6 times to get to Set Picture Format. Press the Right Arrow and then the Up or Down Arrow buttons to select which format you want. I have options of Fixed, Upconvert 1, Upconvert 2, and Auto DVI/HDMI (Pass-through) which I have selected. You can try the other options if you wish, but again I think it's best to use the Auto DVI/HDMI setting and let the A10 do all the conversion. Good Luck!!

cbagger01

06-27-06, 01:52 PM

HDMI is a digital signal, just like a digital cable signal, an over the air HDTV broadcast or a digital cell phone conversation.

If the signal is strong enough, you will have perfect quality. Otherwise, you will lose it and have dropouts and hiccups.

But the "beauty" of the signal should not be affected by going through the splitter. It's all 1's and 0's to the computer.

bump909

06-27-06, 04:31 PM

i can't wait.. i'll be buying the 50" a10 next week. 42" vizio plasma has shutoff issues.. and i feel this will be a smarter purchase. i'll be getting the 50" a10 packaged with the stand which i doubt i'll use. if anyone in the boston area needs it, please pm me and we'll talk business.

rits399

06-27-06, 04:50 PM

I got my 50A10 yesterday and I noticed that there is a very light white spot right in the middle of the screen. You only see it when the TV is off and if you are sitting in front of the tv, 6-8 feet away. There is no difference in picture quality where I see the white spot. It is around 10-12cm in diameter. Any ideas?

Servo1

06-27-06, 04:55 PM

rits399 wrote:

I got my 50A10 yesterday and I noticed that there is a very light white spot right in the middle of the screen. You only see it when the TV is off and if you are sitting in front of the tv, 6-8 feet away. There is no difference in picture quality where I see the white spot. It is around 10-12cm in diameter. Any ideas?

It's ambient room light gathered by the set's mirrors and focused on the center of the screen. Turn off the room lights and it's gone. Perfectly normal. :)

Tom

FirebirdTN

06-27-06, 04:56 PM

I have seen it on every A10 I looked at, but it didn't stop me from purchasing it.

If you are seeing the same thing I am with mine, and all the other A10s I have seen, it is ambient light being reflected off the screen somehow. These TVs have a anti-reflective screen, so its not a "reflection" like you would see on a glass TV tube, yet it has something to do with the screen and ambient lighting conditions. If you see it now currently, you will see it even if the TV is unplugged, so its no fault of the set.

-Alan

rits399

06-27-06, 04:58 PM

abumason

06-27-06, 06:09 PM

av455

06-27-06, 10:03 PM

I need to help my brother out. He is looking for a 42" HDTV and has a budget of about $1,200 - $1,600. I recommended the Sony A10. He found one at a Best Buy that is a floor display model that is on sale at the low end of his range.

Does anyone have any thoughts on whether he should jump on this deal? I imagine the standard warranty would cover any problems that would pop up in the first year.

If it were a plasma I would be worried about burn-in etc. on an abused set - but for a rear projection that isn't really a problem, correct?

BTW - a friend of a friend works at Best Buy and looked up the unit and claims that there are no notes in the system that this unit had problems or was returned - it has simply been sitting on display.

Thanks in advance for your comments.

teckademic

06-27-06, 10:38 PM

well, I guess it depends on how long its been a floor model? You must realize that these sets tend to be on all day with many people messing with them, but I would just double check what the warranty covers in case you do run into problems.

CarlRx

06-27-06, 11:23 PM

So, I "pulled the trigger" today and bought a new in box A10. <$1800 at a b&m store with a 30 day no restocking policy just in case.

I would like to thank everyone on this forum and in this thread for the info to date.

I struggled with only 1 HDMI, vs the new E2000, but like having the VGA. Thinking I will run HDMI from upconverting DVD and Component from the HD-DVR.

Would've taken the 55 inch E2000 but decided to not wait or pay the extra $500. The current SXRDs seem to have the green blob issue and don't even take 1080p over HDMI so they're out. The A20s have the old technology, so they're out too.

Questions I have at this point are:

How long should I "break in" the bulb until I start tweaking/calibrating?

Would you run HD over the HDMI or the UC DVD player?

How many are doing both the grayscale and the red push tweak and is it worth it?

Thanks again--can't wait to pick it up Friday!

--Carl

Indiana627

06-28-06, 12:51 PM

rits399 wrote:It's ambient room light gathered by the set's mirrors and focused on the center of the screen. Turn off the room lights and it's gone. Perfectly normal. :)

So that's what that spot is... I've wondered since I first noticed it a few days after getting my E50A10 last month. I've never seen it with the TV on so I wasn't concerned, but still nice to know what it is!

Melanotheron

06-28-06, 12:57 PM

So, I "pulled the trigger" today and bought a new in box A10. <$1800 at a b&m store with a 30 day no restocking policy just in case.
I'm sure you will be very happy with your purchase, most people are very satisfied with the A10, as I am.

Questions I have at this point are:

How long should I "break in" the bulb until I start tweaking/calibrating?

Would you run HD over the HDMI or the UC DVD player?

How many are doing both the grayscale and the red push tweak and is it worth it?

Thanks again--can't wait to pick it up Friday!

--Carl
I'm not too sure about the "break in" period, but I know some people have done their tweaks right away. I waited about a week before I did mine, so I would guess I had 30 hours or so by that time.

You will need to use the HDMI for your upconverting DVD player, since most won't upconvert over component. I have compared component/HDMI with both my cable box and upconverting DVD and found the cable box picture was the same, while the DVD player has a better picture with HDMI.

The red push fix made a big difference for my TV, but I am still experimenting with the grayscale tweak. I would definitely do the red push fix, but I am undecided on the other.

Mel

Melanotheron

06-28-06, 01:08 PM

Hey all,

I've searched the thread, but couldn't find a definitive answer.

I realize the A10's native resolution is 720

Is the A10's upconvert technology better / worse / or the same as what they offer in their newest upconvert DVD player - NS75 ?

I need a new DVD player and looking at this one, but if all I need is progressive scan I'll save the HDMI for a PS3.

Will there be an appreciable improvement in PQ with a reasonably priced (< $150) upconvert DVD player? If so which one?

Thanks,
Thor
I have an A10 and the NS75 upconverting DVD connected via HDMI, and I see a slight improvement to the picture vs. my older progressive scan DVD player. I decided to keep the NS75 partially because of the better picture, but also because it produces great sound quality. Since it was on sale, I feel that I got a good deal. Since you want to use the HDMI input for the PS3, I would recommend you stick with your progressive scan DVD player. Possibly another option is to find a player that upconverts over component, but I know they are rare. I think I read that LG makes one and one of the older Samsung models can do it with a user hack. Not too sure though.

tmeader

06-28-06, 01:19 PM

Or you could just get a HDMI switcher from monoprice if you want to use HDMI for both.

CarlRx

06-28-06, 03:36 PM

Talked to my guy at Tweeter today and changed the A10 for the new 50E2000 for just $50 more. Now the HDMI is not an issue. Cable card isn't a factor to me because I'll use a HD-DVR. Thought the $$ spread would be more for the new product but it was a good deal.

--Carl

BSparks294

06-28-06, 05:36 PM

This is from an e-mail from sony

In regard to your inquiry, you may purchase a service plan through Sony Style within 11 months from when the product was purchased. Please contact a sales representative at 1-877-865-SONY (option 1) for information and assistance in purchasing a plan

Just got a renewal warranty notice in the mail from Sony and they want $350 for a three year warranty, when on the website it says $199. What gives?

Brad

JCSTEBS

06-28-06, 05:37 PM

Taxman71

06-28-06, 06:11 PM

Has anyone has any luch programming the remote control on the A10 to operate a Yamaha DVD player (DVSS-S550)?

Taxman71

06-28-06, 06:12 PM

Does Anyone Have Any Recommendations For A Good Calibration Disk,i Have The Kdf-e50a10. Also For Those With The Terk 5 Antenna,would It Work Good For Someone In A Small Town About 80 Miles From A Big City?

I have the Terk5 in the city so I don't know about your situation, but if you buy it from a B&M store (not internet) you can always return it free of charge.

lastplace

06-28-06, 06:14 PM

Just got a renewal warranty notice in the mail from Sony and they want $350 for a three year warranty, when on the website it says $199. What gives?

Brad

I don't know why, I do know I'll be going thru the website :D

dekor

06-29-06, 09:10 AM

Ok guys, just hooked this up to my pc via a DVI->HDMI adapter.. now 1280x720 is too big for the screen it seems (overscan i guess, i am new)..

ive been searching for service menu threeads and all of that to see what i can do, and im overwhelmed..

basically if someone can be kind enough to give me a step by step how to on finding and changing these settings in the serive menu, id appreciate it.

i can either set it so my screen moves with my cursor, which is retarded, or do a custom resolution which i dont want.. i just want simple 1280x720p which is the TVs native res.
(i used to have it hooked up via VGA cable and it auto scaled to the screen, but i kept getting interference up and down the screen no matter what i tried, so i got this monster converter)

its only like an inch overscan but its bothering me so much and ruining my experience.. im sitting on 10 grand worth of equipment here and its not working properly!

thanks in advance guys

Dermot

06-29-06, 11:10 AM

Ok guys, just hooked this up to my pc via a DVI->HDMI adapter.. now 1280x720 is too big for the screen it seems (overscan i guess, i am new)..

You shouldn't be geeting "overscan" as that is only for CRT's and RPTV's.
How do other components look?

The problem likely resides in your HTPC.
What card are you using?
Are you outputting 1080i or 720p? Try 720p if you have an invidia card.

Why not go with a custon resolution? You will likely have to regardless.

Your other option is the PC input but you will have a 1/2 inch gap around the picture.

dekor

06-29-06, 11:22 AM

yup ive done the pc input and that gap pissed me off..

i have an nvidia 7800 gtx, and am using 720p.. its still like am inch bigger then what the screen can show.. wtf? isnt this the tvs native res?

Melanotheron

06-29-06, 11:36 AM

Dekor - Mr. Pibb posted a tutorial for this in the Home Theater Computers forum. It apparently works best with VGA, but there are some posts about HDMI-DVI connections, as well. Maybe the discussion will help you with your setup.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=670840&page=1&pp=30

Mel

FirebirdTN

06-29-06, 01:57 PM

i can either set it so my screen moves with my cursor, which is retarded, or do a custom resolution which i dont want.. i just want simple 1280x720p which is the TVs native res.

Just a quick note on this...

The TVs native res is 1280x720, BUT some of that res is not visible (overscan). So you can't have it both ways: IE 1280x720 with no overscan. You either use all 1280x720 pixels and live with the overscan, or you use just the pixels that *are* visible (ie: custom resolution).

Its a pain I know, but I don't blame the set. Its difficult when your trying to make a fixed resolution display work with multiple standards (TV, PC). Although Sony might have made life easier if they made all 1280x720 pixels visible, and cropped the analog TV signals via software, but that might have made the cost go up dramatically, not sure...

-Alan

-EDIT- Also, on the VGA; you wouldn't happen to be using those "VGA" extension cables available at local computer stores would you? Those things are the WORST. If you want a clean VGA signal, you have to convert the signal cables to true 75 ohm cables as near the connectors as possible. If you do that, you can run VGA for very long distances with very little loss and interferance.

JCSTEBS

06-30-06, 07:00 PM

Still Need Some Suggestions For A Good Calibration Disk,i Have The Kdf-e50a10

BobRiff

06-30-06, 08:28 PM

Still Need Some Suggestions For A Good Calibration Disk,i Have The Kdf-e50a10

Avia and Digital Video Essentials are the "big two".

Avia is allegedly easier to use, but there is good step-by-step guide to basic setup using DVE here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=691849[/url)

Both are available through Netflix or you can buy them at various stores on the web.

You can also do some reading in the Grand Vega Tweaks thread. There are some settings posted there to get you started.

Bob

JCSTEBS

07-01-06, 01:54 AM

Thanks For The Info Bob.

Sean4

07-02-06, 02:32 PM

I picked up my new Sony Wega KDF-E50A10 from my local store yesterday! I haven't hooked it up yet as I need to move some furniture around first. Loking for some advice from you experts...

I bought the following accessories recommended by the salesman (not the same one I spoke to originally):

Monster Power Home Theatre PowerCenter HTS1000, $150
Acoustic Research (AR) HDMI A-V cable, $64
AR component video cable, $29
2 x AR digital optical audio cables, $30 each

Is the PowerCenter HTS1000 more protection than I need, or is this an appropriate purchase to protect the Wega? Should I exchange it for something less expensive?

Are the AR cables more "cable" than I need? Or will the Wega's performance be hindered with cables of lesser quality?

philherz

07-02-06, 02:43 PM

Are the AR cables more "cable" than I need? Or will the Wega's performance be hindered with cables of lesser quality?

I bought an HDMI cable plus 2 others for a total, with shipping, for about $25 from monoprice.com

VERY satisfied!!!!!

Johnfish

07-02-06, 03:01 PM

DnBKiller

07-02-06, 03:49 PM

Just wondering couple things, I have a sony kdfe51a10

1) Does anyone have the breakdown of the service menu options, seems like this is a new service menu and no one has any good calibration setting or instructions.

2) Does placing magnets around speaker wire for my home theater clean the sound up or do anything for that matter??

I would really appreciate any help on these matters.

Thanks so much guys

Nick from NY

terzaghi

07-02-06, 11:31 PM

check the a10 tweeks thread
i cant post the url because i have not emade 5 posts

terzaghi

07-02-06, 11:32 PM

ok here it is

terzaghi

07-02-06, 11:32 PM

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=567709&page=1&pp=30

JakeFusion™

07-03-06, 10:41 AM

When I search the thread I can't find the answer, so does anyone know if the A10 series has a 10-bit color processor or 8-bit?

david3000

07-03-06, 11:16 AM

Has anyone else read the E2000 manual? Looks like the new set is losing some of the Iris control. Now there will only be Advanced Iris which kind of combines the two controls on the A10. This loss of control is enough for me to go ahead and buy an A10.

tmeader

07-03-06, 11:31 AM

Yeah, very good point David. I downloaded the manual a couple days ago and was looking through it, just to see if there were any real differences. I too was surprised to see that the Advanced Iris has been dumbed down from 4 levels to just 2 (if the manual is accurate). That, combined with the missing VGA port, and the removal of Cablecard altogether, would definitely push me towards the A10 if I were still in the market.

Side note: I noticed that on Sony's website they appear to be downplaying the abilities of the 42A10, in favor of pumping up the E2000 line. On all the E2000 models, the make a big point in the general summary page of touting the Cineblack Pro and theoretical 10000:1 contrast ratio. However, that is NOWHERE to be seen on the 42A10's summary page. It's there if you go to specifications, but they've actually REMOVED it from the summary page to point you towards the E2000s. I understand that they're just trying to push their new (in my eyes inferior) line, but that's a pretty shady way to go about it.

Yoda1

07-03-06, 12:01 PM

Do the new models really have 10,000:1 contrast ratio?! I mean, that would be a MAJOR improvement over last year's models, putting the E2000 in the same category as the SXRDs in the area of contrast. I would definitely take a long, hard look at these new sets if that were the case. Or is this just a misprint or a big load of PR BS?

tmeader

07-03-06, 12:07 PM

wdj03

07-03-06, 12:20 PM

I'm about to start building a cabinet for my 50A10. I looked in my manual and other than keeping the TV 4" from the wall, I couldn't find any reccomendations for minimum clearances around the top & sides. I was thinking 4" was a nice round number, but I'd like to get it tighter if I could.

I could work fans into my design, if I had to, but I'd like to know what the starting point is.

Yoda1

07-03-06, 12:34 PM

It's a load of Sony BS. The SXRD's don't have a 10,000:1 contrast ratio either. They never have. But, theoretically, under the optimal conditions, and with the right scenes, they MAYBE could. Manufacturers always inflate the contrast ratios.

FYI, the 50A10 (when it was still on Sony's site) and 42A10 USED to say the exact same thing. They just don't anymore. Since they're pushing the E2000s.

Yeah, but SXRD has pretty fanastic contrast ratio compared to the competition (I wouldn't be surprised if it measured very close to 10,000:1 - ask any calibrator who's worked on these sets, they'll verify it), and 10,000 is an incredibly high number to quote. For instance, I was under the impression that flat panel LCDS have generally higher contrast ratio than RP LCD, and none of the manufacters will go near a number as high as 10,000:1. I mean, the latest Sharps are quoted at 1600:1 ... those numbers don't appear to be fudged (although Samsung is a big offender here) ... Anyway, I won't get my hopes up, but it would be cool if things improved greatly with the new line.

tmeader

07-03-06, 12:57 PM

I'm fairly confident that, if there had been such a huge increase in contrast ratios, they'd have broadcast it WELL before now. With the Advanced Iris though, Sony has quoted "Better than 2000:1" on the KDFE__A10 line in the past though. The 50A10's are VERY GOOD for a rear projection set, not LCOS levels, but still quite good. Here's a link to the Sony PDF that shows better than 2000:1 for the KFE50A10 (the Canadian version of our set, same basic model minus the ATSC tuner):

http://www.sony.co.nz/images/ulimg/Pulse27TechSpecs.pdf (check page 17)

Yoda1

07-03-06, 01:04 PM

tmeader

07-03-06, 01:24 PM

yoda, I agree... that's why I was saying that the 10,000:1 number is total Sony BS. It's simply not possible with LCD RP sets. Even LCOS based sets can't do it alone, they still require the use of an advanced iris type setup like Sony has to increase the default contrast ratios that the chips themselves can put out. Like you said, the SXRDs (LCOS) do have great contrast ratios, rated in at least one review as close to 10,000:1 that Sony sites. But, in the same review, when disabling the Advanced Iris, the ratio dropped more than half, to around 4000:1 for the same material. That is the ratio that the chips themselves are capable of. Now, the LCD panels are nowhere near capable of 4000:1 on their own (like you mentioned, the best for the flat panels I've seen is roughly 1500:1). So, assuming that the LCD's in the LCD RP sets aren't even that good, it is indeed the Advanced Iris that is bumping up the contrast ratios so high (in this case to "beyond 2000:1").

To sum up, you aren't being disagreeable, you're proving my point... that being that Sony is lying about the E2000 series.

Yoda1

07-03-06, 01:31 PM

I'm sure you're right, I just want it to have 10,000: 1 CR. ;)

Ceelow

07-03-06, 07:22 PM

Greetings Ladies and Gents,
I just recently joined the board, looking for advice, info, and so forth on home theater systems. I have a relatively simple setup, a sony KDF-E50A10, a pioneer receiver, samsung dvd (upsampling via hdmi), mythtv htpc, infinity speakers (5.1). All seems to work well enough except the PC input. when on the PC input, the input label is flashed what seems to be random. The length it stays up is random as well. The signal is solid, no noise or anything else funky. Tried a laptop, same result. I looked through the boards and only found 1 reference to the problem. This board is huge, I was happy to find anything at all.

I had a link to the instance of the error I am having, but I cannot post a link so soon, need to post more first. :(

If interested do a search on:

singsingsing - the user who posted it, dated 03-28-06 07:20 AM

"Video 7 label flashing <- search term

That was several months ago, I was wondering if any one found a more permanent solution. Disconnecting the antenna cannot be a long term solution. One more thing, I would really like to thank Mr. Pibb for his excellent guide to getting 1:1 pixel mapping on the set. Mythtv looks awesome!!!

Thanks,
Calvin

Silvertip1

07-04-06, 12:58 AM

After following this thread from the beginning, I thought it was about time to pass along my experiences with the E50. Since I was planning on hooking up a PC to whatever set I got, and the fact that I have problems watching both plasma and DLP, this seemed to be just the one. Back in November I learned that I was going to have to have cancer surgery and would be on permanent disability, so I went ahead and got the 50" (football season :D ) from Sears (with a pricematch from Costco). After checking out the different warranty options, I went with the in home delivery and the extended warranty from Sears due to the in-home feature and the once-a year cleaning and maintenance (sp? :confused: ). It cost a little more but in my condition was worth the extra bucks. I have had no problems with it at all. I did some minor adjustments (color, brightness, etc.) and since my eyes aren't the greatest, have what I consider to be a great picture. I hooked up a Sony DVD/VCR via component/ composite, my DirecTV STB, a pair of el-cheapo rabbit ears, and my PC (through the VGA). Now that my grandkids are here with me it also has a PS2 connected. Everything looks great and I have no problem putting up with the slight border around the screen with the PC. The SD from satellite looks very good also. All in all, this set has been worth every penny I paid for it.

My question deals with the DirecTV STB (the D11) and the Sony remote. I watch a lot of local HD and have not been able to come up with a code for the STB to program into the remote like I did with the DVD/VCR so I am forced to keep both on hand and switch back and forth. Has anybody been able to come up with a code that will solve this problem?

For all of you who are debating whether this set is worth your hard earned dollars, the answer in my opinion is a resounding YES. Especially if you are planning to connect a PC. Thanks to all here who posted their experiences and opinions before I made my purchase. It made the process a lot easier.

Silvertip

WilliamC

07-04-06, 02:00 AM

JaySound

07-04-06, 04:43 AM

I'm sure these questions have been addressed before in this forum, but I've spent an hour looking and still can't seem to find the answers to my questions.
Please bear with me!

In March I purchased a Sony KDF-E50A10 LCD RP Set. I am generally very happy with it but still plan, eventually, to get an ISF calibration altho' it isn't bad out of the box. What does bother me tho' is that the picture has fairly significant keystoning. Vertical lines are noticeably wider at the bottom of the screen than at the top. This is even more apparent (and annoying) when watching an un-stretched SD picture on the 16:9 screen. Also, static convergence could be slightly better...there is a red edge along the left side of images and a green edge along the right side.

I had an "official" factory authorized Sony service tech come out to the house shortly after I bought the set and he said "they are all like that. They all have keystoning and convergence issues that can not be adjusted out. He then left without doing anything and said that I should enjoy the "great" picture that I have.

I've a got a Sony WS510 downstairs that I had ISF calibrated and it looks fantastic. Perfect geometry and convergence (altho' I have to touch it up now and then).

I purchased a service manual for the new 50A10 and altho it describes how to get into the service menu, it doesn't define any of the codes. I have seen a number of postings for codes for the CRT Sony sets, but none for the LCD RP sets like I've got. Also, its possible that the keystoning issue can be resolved with a mechanical adjustment to the LCD engine, but I can't get a straight answer from Sony.

Please Help!

Thanks,
JAY

tmeader

07-04-06, 10:16 AM

Actually the XBR1 sxrd were measured at higher contrast ratios in reviews.

Touche. I did find the review yesterday that mentioned 12,000+:1 as the contrast ratio they measured. I'll admit, that's pretty astonishing for a rear-projection set... however, there's still no way on earth that the e2000s suddenly went from 2000+:1 to 10000:1. That was the main point I was trying to make :)

kicks

07-05-06, 08:51 PM

kicks

07-05-06, 08:52 PM

Yoda1

07-05-06, 08:56 PM

Ok, I um .. saw the new E-series today and no, the set's do not have a CR of 10,000:1 - still black crush galore. In fact, I don't think the new set has any improvements to speak of, looks like the same exact set - just with less inputs.

Yoda1

07-05-06, 09:07 PM

Is red push an issue here? Is that was red push is that kind of redish haze?

This part of the game is set at sunset ao I don't know if it's the red push issue with 42A10 or if it's the game? Little help

http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/8178/dsc013060gr.jpg

http://img317.imageshack.us/img317/8674/dsc013053vk.jpg

And if red push is the issue how exactly do I fix it, I hear of this avia disc or something well how exactly does that fix anything?

'Red push' can be minimized with a calibration disc but it won't be eliminated. To do that, you'll need to get into the service menu and use some very expensive calibration equipment to set proper grayscale, adjust color values, etc. In other words, you need to hire an ISF tech.

kicks

07-05-06, 09:33 PM

'Red push' can be minimized with a calibration disc but it won't be eliminated. To do that, you'll need to get into the service menu and use some very expensive calibration equipment to set proper grayscale, adjust color values, etc. In other words, you need to hire an ISF tech.

sry about the double post, but is that the red push everybody is talking about on those 2 screens I posted. Perhaps anybody else who has the game can have some input on this, did the game look this redish on that level on whatever hdtv you played it one?

pottscb

07-05-06, 10:04 PM

sry about the double post, but is that the red push everybody is talking about on those 2 screens I posted. Perhaps anybody else who has the game can have some input on this, did the game look this redish on that level on whatever hdtv you played it one?

This doesn't look like red push, everything on the screen is really bright making me think its an effect of the game to simulate "high noon." Red push is just that, an over saturaton of the red hue. You can tell it most on material that you're very familiar with. I've done the DVE calibration and I really don't notice it much, of course, I never really had a problem with it.

Also, here are my "custom" 42A10 settings after DVE calibration with an Oppo 970HD:

Pic- 69
Bright- 51
Color- 47
Hue- 0->(G+1)
Color Temp.- Neutral
Sharpness- Min.
<Advanced>:
black corrector: low
Auto Iris: low
everything else in here off.

There is a bit of "wiggle room" in these settings, start here and tweak until your eye likes it.

maverick0716

07-05-06, 11:05 PM

Doing the Red Push Fix will make the reds in any picture look much more natural looking. Without the fix, the reds look almost cartoony, while the other colours look fine. I think the biggest difference I noticed after doing the fix is peoples flesh tones seemed much better.

swanzoso22

07-05-06, 11:27 PM

I just purchased a KDF-E50A10, and I love the picture quality except for one big detail. I am not sure if anyone else has this problem, but I would be grateful for any insight.

The image has a tendency to change the brightness level during the middle of a program, regardless of what setting I change the iris and color level to. For instance, the color of an actor's skin will change from a lighter shade back to the normal level.

Does this happen to other Sony Wega owners? I am still within the 30 return grace period, and I am leaning towards returning it for a 50 inch Samsung DLP.

Any recommendations?

Sal

Melanotheron

07-06-06, 12:11 AM

The image has a tendency to change the brightness level during the middle of a program, regardless of what setting I change the iris and color level to.

Any recommendations?

Sal
This sounds like your Advanced Iris setting is on High or Medium. When set like this, the iris opens and closes depending on the scene. Turn Advanced Iris to Low or Off and see if that helps.

rdethloff

07-06-06, 01:27 PM

Greetings All!
I've had my 50A10 for about 6 weeks now and I love it. I am posting in this thread regarding an issue that has cropped up twice in the last couple of weeks and I wanted to get some opinions/ideas. Twice I've turned on the TV and the TV will power up but no picture will come up. I'm not able to change inputs with either the remote or from the TV itself. Absolutely nothing comes up on the TV...volume, channel, settings, display...nothing. Powering the TV off for a few minutes doesn't help. The only way I've found to fix this is to power on the TV then power it off while holding UP on the remote "D-Pad". The manual says this procedure will reset the TV to factory settings, but all my custon settings are still intact (although I haven't checked the red push fix).

Anyway, what could be causing this issue and how worried should I be??

Thanks,
Robb

Melanotheron

07-06-06, 01:38 PM

What is the build date of your TV? Maybe you need the firmware upgrade.

rdethloff

07-06-06, 01:48 PM

Thanks for the reply,

Although I don't know the build date, I just bought the TV in May. Besides, I ran my serial number through the sony website and it came back "clean"...no firmware update needed.

Melanotheron

07-06-06, 02:13 PM

When you try to turn it on, maybe it goes into standby and won't power up all the way. Try unplugging the set for 10 minutes to reset it.

rdethloff

07-06-06, 03:03 PM

philherz

07-06-06, 08:30 PM

Hmmm, that's interesting...why would it do that? I did notice that the light on the front of the unit (power/standby) flashed longer than normal and then stayed on. What is the purpose of the standby mode anyway?

I'm not sure about the standyby mode question, but the behavior you describe is definitely not normal.

If you try a few things and it fixes it, that's great.

Otherwise, I suspect you have a problem with something.

terzaghi

07-07-06, 09:14 AM

sry about the double post, but is that the red push everybody is talking about on those 2 screens I posted. Perhaps anybody else who has the game can have some input on this, did the game look this redish on that level on whatever hdtv you played it one?

I love GRAW- anyway I have an old 19 inch tube tv right now (hence the reason i am here), and it has pretty much the same colors as yours on those levels. If you have the new map pack the fishing village level at morning or sunset or whatever is also bad.

It *MAY* look a little bit more red on your tv then mine, but not much if at all.

Ogami Itto

07-07-06, 10:46 AM

I have the game and the 50A10 and mine does not look like that in that section. It's got red, but not that much. I have applied the Red Push fix outlined in the Grand Wega Tweaks thread in this site. That is probably what is making the difference. It is not very hard, but if you do it, read the instructions completely before entering your service menu and write down all of your original settings. It makes a world of difference. These sets are way too red out of the box.

Great game. Great TV.

philherz

07-07-06, 11:46 AM

I have applied the Red Push fix outlined in the Grand Wega Tweaks thread in this site.

These sets are way too red out of the box.

I've had my A10 for almost 10 months and can't say as I've ever noticed an issue with the red or felt the need to do the fix.

Is it something like SSE where it might bother one person more than others

-or-

does it vary from set to set

-or-

is it primarily a gaming issue????

Ogami Itto

07-07-06, 12:00 PM

I actualy notice it more in TV and DVD than gaming. A big thing I've noticed through all of the Tweaks threads is that when you get inside the service menu, very few of these TVs have the same settings. Build to build, sony has been changing them. With mine, it was an easy tell right out of the box that I needed a change. Every person on my screen tended to look a little sunburned with the color at a decent level (about 42). Skin tone is the easy way to tell colour. If it looks off and sunburnt, try the fix. If it looks natural, you're probably fine.

kicks

07-07-06, 06:54 PM

bigsnyder

07-07-06, 08:03 PM

KDF-E50A10 vs KDF-50E2000

I noticed looking at the specs that the 50E2000 comes in about 9lbs lighter. I realize
we are losing the cablecard slot, d-sub, and gaining a HDMI port, but what internally
might be causing the weight difference? I guess I am very old school in that I like
to equate quality with weight. Any other comparisons would be greatly appreciated.

C Snyder

PS, They also use the same bulb, so no difference there.

jdog826

07-07-06, 08:36 PM

Ogami Itto

07-07-06, 09:27 PM

Take a picture of the game on your tv at that section so I see what you are talking about. My tv was maunfactured on March 2006 and I bought it end of May 2006, so didn't it get that red push fix?

As far as I know, Sony has never done the red push fix. I've been reading people's build dates and service menu specs and I can't pick up much of a pattern to how they are set vs. build date.

Mine was manufactured in the same month actually and purchased April 2006. I have no digital camera, but next time my bro is by I'll get him to bring his. I'm not sure if it makes a difference, but mine is a KFE, the Canadian version.

It's hard to tell with photos sometimes. Yours could be perfectly natural and just appear redder to me in a tiny photo on my computer monitor. The easiest way is to look at skin tones. If you are on Xbox live, I'd download a trailer for something where you have a pretty good idea how it should look (Superman Returns is probably good) and look at the skin tones. Does Kevin Spacey as LL look a little reddish or does he look balanced, maybe a little too white like he is supposed to?

kicks

07-07-06, 11:21 PM

As far as I know, Sony has never done the red push fix. I've been reading people's build dates and service menu specs and I can't pick up much of a pattern to how they are set vs. build date.

Mine was manufactured in the same month actually and purchased April 2006. I have no digital camera, but next time my bro is by I'll get him to bring his. I'm not sure if it makes a difference, but mine is a KFE, the Canadian version.

It's hard to tell with photos sometimes. Yours could be perfectly natural and just appear redder to me in a tiny photo on my computer monitor. The easiest way is to look at skin tones. If you are on Xbox live, I'd download a trailer for something where you have a pretty good idea how it should look (Superman Returns is probably good) and look at the skin tones. Does Kevin Spacey as LL look a little reddish or does he look balanced, maybe a little too white like he is supposed to?

Maybe people have a tan lol and you guys are changinng your sets for no reason. One show the looks real red (skin tones) is 2 and half men, but it looks alright to me doesn't bother me so I'm guessing it's people's skin tones that really gets to you guys?

Here I took a few pics of some shows in HD today 24 and The Unit, what do you think of their skin tones?

http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/1499/dsc013759pl.jpg

http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/6592/dsc013807hi.jpg

http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/7846/dsc013854sw.jpg

http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/622/dsc013861so.jpg

http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/8106/dsc013936am.jpg

http://img83.imageshack.us/img83/3707/dsc014089mq.jpg

http://img83.imageshack.us/img83/5746/dsc014111cr.jpg

http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/4607/dsc014145ft.jpg

gwsmith

07-08-06, 01:18 AM

Maybe people have a tan lol and you guys are changinng your sets for no reason. One show the looks real red (skin tones) is 2 and half men, but it looks alright to me doesn't bother me so I'm guessing it's people's skin tones that really gets to you guys?

Here I took a few pics of some shows in HD today 24 and The Unit, what do you think of their skin tones?FWIW....way red, IMO, but that could be the hue adjustment. I'm not a tinkerer for the sake of tinkering, but the red push fix did improve my PQ.

kicks

07-08-06, 01:42 AM

FWIW....way red, IMO, but that could be the hue adjustment. I'm not a tinkerer for the sake of tinkering, but the red push fix did improve my PQ.

FWIW (For What It's Worth)?

So exactly how do I go about "fixing it" the disc or the procedure people posted on the Tweaks thread.

kicks

07-08-06, 01:44 AM

Oh my set is set on warm 2, should I just use neutral instead?

Cameron3395

07-08-06, 07:55 AM

There is a Grand Wega tweaks thread that has alot of fixes for this set.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=567709

Vegas Vic

07-08-06, 11:23 AM

Same prices as SonyStyle website...no discount yet.

maverick0716

07-08-06, 08:51 PM

Oh my set is set on warm 2, should I just use neutral instead?

If you don't want to do the red push fix, then yes, setting it to neutral is by far the best. After the Red Push Fix, I set mine to Warm 1, and they look pretty darn good.

david3000

07-09-06, 12:07 AM

I just bought a 42A10 from CC and am wondering why the model number is KDF-E42A10/A. Does anyone know what the A at the end is for. I did notice it is assembled in the U.S.A. instead of Mexico. Could this be the reason? Thanks.

bump909

07-10-06, 11:20 AM

Had to return my Vizio 42" HD plasma to my favorite warehouse last week due to shut off issues and picked up the Sony KDF-E50A10 rear projection LCD unit. After calibrating it to my liking and practically eliminating red push (thank you Dark Rain and anyone else who provided those settings), I'm happy that the Vizio had to be returned. :D

I appologize for the horrible picture, but here's the TV with the rest of my gear. Glare is from camera flash and light passing through TV even though it looks like smudges on screen.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v215/bump909/htsetup.jpg

Here's a list of my budget gear:

- Sony KDF-E50A10 RP LCD TV
- Sony SS-CN550H center channel speaker (mediocre performance, will be replaced at some point)
- Infinity vintage tower speakers from my dad's old setup (can't recall model number, but they sound great)
- BIC America DV-32 surround speakers (not pictured)
- Athena P4000 powered subwoofer
- Panasonic SA-XR55 receiver
- LG LDA-511 upconverting DVD player (replacing with Oppo at some point)
- Comcast Motorola DCT-6412 III STB
- Belkin PureAV PF30 surge surpressor
- XBox (modded)
- IKEA Markor TV stand (not sure what I'll do with Sony stand just yet)

Dark Rain

07-10-06, 11:28 AM

gwsmith

07-10-06, 11:44 AM

Had to return my Vizio 42" HD plasma to my favorite warehouse last week due to shut off issues and picked up the Sony KDF-E50A10 rear projection LCD unit. After calibrating it to my liking and practically eliminating red push (thank you Dark Rain and anyone else who provided those settings), I'm happy that the Vizio had to be returned. :D

I appologize for the horrible picture, but here's the TV with the rest of my gear. Glare is from camera flash and light passing through TV even though it looks like smudges on screen.

Here's a list of my budget gear:

- Sony KDF-E50A10 RP LCD TV
- Sony SS-CN550H center channel speaker (mediocre performance, will be replaced at some point)
- Infinity vintage tower speakers from my dad's old setup (can't recall model number, but they sound great)
- BIC America DV-32 surround speakers (not pictured)
- Athena P4000 powered subwoofer
- Panasonic SA-XR55 receiver
- LG LDA-511 upconverting DVD player (replacing with Oppo at some point)
- Comcast Motorola DCT-6412 III STB
- Belkin PureAV PF30 surge surpressor
- XBox (modded)
- IKEA Markor TV stand (not sure what I'll do with Sony stand just yet)You may want to save that Sony stand for the unfortunate event that you have to return the TV to your favorite warehouse....;) That's why my 50A10 is sitting on a Sony stand. I don't have the space to store it.

That IKEA stand looks great but seems a little tall for optimum viewing angle....how tall is it?

bump909

07-10-06, 12:01 PM

The stand is 28" tall. It's definitely a few inches taller than the Sony stand from what I remember when comparing specs but it isn't bad at all sitting at about 10 feet back.

Good thinking with the Sony stand. I'll definitely hold onto it.

darthrsg

07-10-06, 05:32 PM

Hello A10 owners, can you guys give me the quick and dirty pros and cons for the A10 and the A20? I am possibly going to switch out a set for one or the other and was wondering about the differences besides the iris. Both seem to be trouble free units with the A10 seemingly favored here at AVS.

bump909

07-10-06, 06:01 PM

quick and dirty? a10 > a20

tmeader

07-10-06, 06:07 PM

Cameron3395

07-10-06, 06:12 PM

Which sucks cause I won't have the money till mid August and I want the 50"A10.

bump909

07-10-06, 06:17 PM

charge it, my friend.

darthrsg

07-10-06, 06:19 PM

Also, being a native 720 panel, the A10 cuts out the scaling step inherent in EVERY HD signal that the A20 has to do (when being fed a 720 signal that is... ie, ABC networks and FOX). Of course, they both still have to resize 1080i content.

In laymans terms? :) . Thanks for the input.
My dealer only has the 42 A10 or the 55 A20, I would be exchanging a 52, the size hit would not be the end of the world but it would be very noticeable to go with the A10.
The black level thing isn't the greatest concern either as I am coming from (possibly) a JVC D-ILA set with OK black levels.
No pc connectivity is not a deal breaker either, the 2 sets seemed to be pretty much equals except for the res thing you mention.
If you could clear that up or link me to a place that does, thanks.

BTW how is the SDE on either set? My D-ILA has SSE and it doesn't bother me but I have seen the SDE on the A10 from 3 feet and if I see it from 10 at home I will be pissed. SDE from 10 feet really sucks :D . I have read the A20 and the A10 threads and it seems to be a non issue from the right distance, and I don't have much choice in moving further from any set I choose (WAF :D ). Thanks again.

Cameron3395

07-10-06, 06:24 PM

charge it, my friend.
Wish I could. :(

terzaghi

07-10-06, 11:52 PM

Which sucks cause I won't have the money till mid August and I want the 50"A10.

I am in the exact same boat as you- planning on buying the 50" A10 mid august when i get back to my apartment for school, and i wont have the money until then. also i applied for a credit card at a local store but i didn't have enough credit...

but i highly doubt these sets will be extinct by august. anyone have an official word that the e2000 are going to completely replace the a10's? why would they not offer them both.? like the a20's and a10s. also: dont you think that stores would still have left overs of the a10's for a couple of months because most people are going to want the newer set/model.

no worries here.

EDIT: ok nevermind- this set is not on circuit city or best buy website, abut the E2000 is( for $200 more too) it is still on the sears site tho, but prolly not for long. I am going to try and get the 50 a10 as soon as possible!

kicks

07-11-06, 02:52 AM

I was at Best Buy today they had a 50" A10 right next to the new 55" E20 and I gotta say the E20 was definately less fuzzy compared to the A10. Overall they looked very close.

Mr.Pibb

07-11-06, 06:58 AM

darthrsg, I agree with bump909.

Due to the inclusion of the dynamic iris in the A10 sets, the black levels on the A10 FAR exceed the A20s.

Also, being a native 720 panel, the A10 cuts out the scaling step inherent in EVERY HD signal that the A20 has to do (when being fed a 720 signal that is... ie, ABC networks and FOX). Of course, they both still have to resize 1080i content.

Note though, if you're looking at the A10s (in particular the 50"), you might want to hurry, since its replacement E2000 model is starting to come out everywhere. The E2000 is virtually identical (save for an additional HDMI input over the A10... but at the same time removal of the VGA input and CableCard slot), but falls short in the dynamic iris department. For some inexplicable reason, Sony has reduced the separate "Dynamic Iris" and "Iris" controls in the A10s to a single "Advanced Iris" setting on the E2000s. It provides much less fine-tunability when compared with the A10 setup.

something I'd like to know about the E2000:
Since it sounds like they dropped the VGA input, does at least one of the HDMI inputs allow a signal to come from a PC unprocessed by the TV? No one seems to be able to get 1:1 pixel mapping with the A10 using HDMI, but it is possible with the VGA. As long as they allow a signal from a PC to go to the screen through HDMI without messing it up, the loss of the VGA connection wouldn't be a big deal.