Would it be wise for me to buy a new bulb for my tv for when my bulb finally decided to burn out. Can a bulb just sit there and collect dust until its time to use?

Would it be wise for me to buy a new bulb for my tv for when my bulb finally decided to burn out. Can a bulb just sit there and collect dust until its time to use?

If a bulb became non-functional if it sat too long on the shelf, I would expect that Sony would place a "Shelf Life" date on the box, just like the date stamped on a bottle of milk.

So I doubt that it will fail if you let it sit there. It sits on the shelf in the warehouse, so what's the difference if it sits on the shelf in your house?

HOWEVER, there is a limited warranty for this things so if it sits there too long it will be uncovered in the event of failure (and some of these bulbs do fail "right out of the box" due to some occasional manufacturing defects).

So bottom line is you have a decision to make:

Is the convenience of having a spare bulb "on-hand" preferred to the slight but real risk that you may have bought a "dud" bulb and cannot get it replaced for free under warranty?

If you regularly host big parties for sporting events like the Super Bowl and/or the NCAA Tournament is it worth the risk that your in-use bulb will burn out at the worst possible time and you can not get a replacement shipped to you for a few days?

For me, I went ahead and bought a spare bulb even though it won't be used for a year or two down the road (and I have already owned it for more than a year).

I'd rather risk being forced to eat the hundred and fifty bucks than live without a TV for days at a time.

But everyone has their own personal priorities...

Thanks alot. I have another question. Would it be possible to take buy a new bulb and swap it with the one thats already in there just to see if it works? Or is it once the bulb is in there it stays in until it burns out?

Thats my plan Zawada; I'm gonna wait till my original bulb has 4000 to 5000 hours on it, buy a new bulb and install it immediately (so I can take advantage of its 90 day? warranty) and then carefully pack away the original as an emergency spare.

So its possible to swap bulbs without anything happening to them?

That's all we need...more litigation. :rolleyes: I've had my TV for over a year and I couldn't be happier. Go troll somewhere else...

Melanotheron,
Thanks so much for the information on how to check the hours on the bulb. I appreciate it. On my service I had to press "jump" only two times to get into the configuration menu.
Found out I had 3700 hours on my two year old TV. Wow, someone must be watching too much TV or they are leaving it on for a noise maker. What is the life expectancy of these things?
One question I did have though is--I had my light engine replaced after about 4 months for the "green" blotch. But when I get the readings for the hours--they are both the same for the screen and the lamp--strange.

Brad

On my service I had to press "jump" only two times to get into the configuration menu.
Brad
Thanks, Brad. I edited my post to make that change. I think the bulbs are rated at 4000-6000 hours, but that is from my failing memory.

I used my PC on the RGB inputs for three days and picture was centered top and bottom. I hit the auto setup in the settings menu to check effects, bad move! :o

All screens now offset right about 90 pixels and down about 20 pixels. How do you re-set for defaults? The re-set menu is only color and stuff. the manual offset settings have not enough range to recenter picture. The offset settings now seem to be locked into eeprom or other.

TIA

I think I have a new problem with my A10 that I couldnt find any info on in the thread. My wife and I were watching a movie in 480p on my 360. When it ended and went back to 720p the screen scrambled but did not convert to 720p (it stayed scrambled!!). At first I thought this was a 360 problem, but found my PS3 and Comcast box to have the same issue with both 720p and 1080i Neither signal was conveting---all we got was the wavy lines that you'll sometimes see right before the picture is displayed.

This went on for around 5-10 minutes. I turned the TV off, and now it appears to be fine. Could this have been an overheating issue? Everything is very well ventilated. I have an extended Best Buy warranty, but can't seem to figure out whats wrong (which means they'll do nothing). Could this be a major problem in the works?

Lets say i am watching tv, but then i am going to be away from it for 30 mins or so. Should i turn off the tv and turn it back on? Or should i just leave it running? Whats better for the bulb?

I used my PC on the RGB inputs for three days and picture was centered top and bottom. I hit the auto setup in the settings menu to check effects, bad move! :o

All screens now offset right about 90 pixels and down about 20 pixels. How do you re-set for defaults? The re-set menu is only color and stuff. the manual offset settings have not enough range to recenter picture. The offset settings now seem to be locked into eeprom or other.

TIA

Maybe stupid, but have you tried hitting the auto-setup again?


Lets say i am watching tv, but then i am going to be away from it for 30 mins or so. Should i turn off the tv and turn it back on? Or should i just leave it running? Whats better for the bulb?

For 30 minutes, I'd turn it off. 5-10 minutes, I'd leave it on. But that's just me, not based on any sort of fact or research. Good question to contact Sony with...

Maybe stupid, but have you tried hitting the auto-setup again?




For 30 minutes, I'd turn it off. 5-10 minutes, I'd leave it on. But that's just me, not based on any sort of fact or research. Good question to contact Sony with...

Thanks, but the auto-setup is a booby trap for these sets, yes I tried it several times with tongue in different positions;) Only thing Sony could suggest was the old unplug for 10 minutes for a full reset. They did say some sets have a restore to default menu right under the auto-setup? Not mine...

There's a way to reset to factory defaults using the Service Menu, maybe that will fix your problem.

Mel

I think I have a new problem with my A10 that I couldnt find any info on in the thread. My wife and I were watching a movie in 480p on my 360. When it ended and went back to 720p the screen scrambled but did not convert to 720p (it stayed scrambled!!). At first I thought this was a 360 problem, but found my PS3 and Comcast box to have the same issue with both 720p and 1080i Neither signal was conveting---all we got was the wavy lines that you'll sometimes see right before the picture is displayed.

This went on for around 5-10 minutes. I turned the TV off, and now it appears to be fine. Could this have been an overheating issue? Everything is very well ventilated. I have an extended Best Buy warranty, but can't seem to figure out whats wrong (which means they'll do nothing). Could this be a major problem in the works?

Does anyone have any clue what is going on with my TV? Please help!

Since our a10's are native 720p, I have Xbox, DVD, HDVR and such set for 720P. In other words the display is going to up or downscale to 720P no mater what you feed it.

I take it your display used to re-sync fine but now messing up? I'm guessing here as I have not your problem. Maybe unplug Sony for 10 minutes to do the master reset. Then one of your external components may be sending out something the Sony can't sync to? The most my display takes is about 1 second to re-sync SD to HD over 720P settings.

You can call sony tech support but if you do have a problem then open a can of patience as I find only the second tier tech support are hepfull...

Is the component input brighter than the hdmi input? I ask because I currently have the Xbox 360 connected through component and the PS3 through hdmi. I feel that the 360 is bright enough with contrast set around 65-70 and brightness set to 47, but on the PS3 I don't feel like the picture is as bright with contrast set at 75 and brightness set at 47. Advanced iris is on low and iris is on 1 for both inputs. Both inputs are calibrated through test patterns from NBA Live and a bluray disc. Any thoughts on this?

Different signal levels? I simply adjust each input for satisfactory video levels...

I can't help, but feel that it is either my eyes or this tv that the image feels like it is out of focus or something. I tend to see a lot of halos around letters when reading text from games on the 360 and PS3. I also feel like the image is rather soft when viewing blu ray movies. I just don't get that sharp image from Blu ray like many others experience.

I know the A10 is not an SXRD, but does anyone know if this is similar to the green blobs etc reported for the A10s?

http://www.sonysxrdtvclassaction.com/main/home.sfx

Long time no see!

Long story short, got my 46A10 back in November for a good price at CC. CC has a bunch of incompetent reps, but don't worry, I didn't buy the Monster cables like they suggested ... in fact, the cables from Comcast work fine.

Question -

Anyone had success hooking up a Super Nintendo to their A10? I have it set-up like this ...

Coax from wall -> 1 to 2 splitter (1 to TV one to Internet) -> Super Nintendo connector -> TV.

When I turn to channel 4, the screen goes black, but the Nintendo screen doesn't show-up. I have confirmed the Nintendo works.

Also, when the Nintendo connector device (whatever it's called) is connected and I'm watching TV, the signal is degraded and I get problems with the picture and syncing of the voice with the picture.

Any thoughts?

Otherwise, my g/f at first hated the TV because of the price, but loves it now so we're considering the XBOX 360 especially since it has an HD-DVD adapter.

I know the A10 is not an SXRD, but does anyone know if this is similar to the green blobs etc reported for the A10s?

http://www.sonysxrdtvclassaction.com/main/home.sfx

There have been reports of discoloration in the corners on the A10s. On mine they appear as faint red and blue blotches. Using the Advanced Iris makes them more pronounced but hard to detect unless you're watching a B&W movie. This issue is caused by the use of polarizers in the projection light path and isn't repairable.

is there a test pattern somewhere to test focus? I feel like my a10 is rather soft and I have sharpness set around 30-35 for most sources.

If you have a DVR that gets HDnet, they show a test pattern once of twice a month.

is there a test pattern somewhere to test focus? I feel like my a10 is rather soft and I have sharpness set around 30-35 for most sources.
You could try using AVIA or DVE DVDs. They have a test pattern for adjusting sharpness and overscan. This is a test for showing edge enhancement, and really only works for the DVD player. Try HDNet or INHD as suggested as well.

Has your A10 always looked soft or just recently? Analog and low definition sources are going to look a bit softer than digital and HD. You shouldn't need to go higher than 20 with HD and 30 with SD. For low definition sources, use the DRC Palette and set it to 40/40.

Of course, "taste" can be a factor and you may just prefer a higher level of sharpness. But all you are really doing is adding more edge enhancement for a kind of 'fake' sharpness effect:

http://www.videophile.info/Guide_EE/Page_01.htm

I feel this a lot more now that I am watching blu ray. A lot of movies that people claim to be rather sharp and detailed I see rather soft on my set. A lot of movies just don't have that kind of sharpness that most people talk about.

It might just be the player.

My older Sony DVD player looked better at 30, whereas my Oppo DVD player looks perfect at 23. But the Oppo DVD player signal is being sent via HDMI to the A10 and it has a better internal scaler than the Sony.

If every source is looking softer than when you first bought it then it might just be the TV. It could need cleaning or a "restoration" process done. I think I seen a post in one of the other "Grand Wega" threads that mentioned it. I believe the "restoration" is done via the service menu. It's supposed to refocus the projection lens or make some other internal adjustment. I'm not sure this is even possible on the A10, but it's worth doing a search on. You might even see about having a professional calibrator look at it if you think it's worth the cost.

FYI - my mother's bulb just went, 28 months at 12-15 hours a day 7 days a week, 10K-12K hours on that bulb. maybe better to run longer on times vs. several on-offs a day.

I can't help, but feel that it is either my eyes or this tv that the image feels like it is out of focus or something. I tend to see a lot of halos around letters when reading text from games on the 360 and PS3. I also feel like the image is rather soft when viewing blu ray movies. I just don't get that sharp image from Blu ray like many others experience.

Halos suggest either a sharpness setting that is too high, or misconvergence. Put up a white-on-black crosshatch test pattern and look closely to check the convergence is. A sharpness pattern should have no halos around the lines. On my set, the best sharpness setting for DVD is around 10.

Also, I strongly suggest turning DRC off. I tried it with a variety of sources and it always harmed the image quality (according to sharpness test patterns) at all custom settings. It appears to just be a fancy way of tweaking sharpness, but at a severe cost of higher frequencies.

Halos suggest either a sharpness setting that is too high, or misconvergence. Put up a white-on-black crosshatch test pattern and look closely to check the convergence is. A sharpness pattern should have no halos around the lines. On my set, the best sharpness setting for DVD is around 10.

Also, I strongly suggest turning DRC off. I tried it with a variety of sources and it always harmed the image quality (according to sharpness test patterns) at all custom settings. It appears to just be a fancy way of tweaking sharpness, but at a severe cost of higher frequencies.

You're going to get halos on SD DVDs and HD DVDs that have EE. This is unavoidable. But setting the sharpness setting above 15 (give or take) will add EE. The key here is where to stop.

Misconvergence isn't off enough on these TVs to affect the sharpness. The red is off on mine as much as a pixel in some areas and the picture looks sharp. Sony says it's within spec.

DRC Palette is fine if you keep the settings low. I find that it works best for SD cable sources at around 40/40. You get a little EE, but it's better than looking at a soft and blurry picture. But this a preference setting.

Hi,

This is my first post in this thread but a big fan of it.

I got a couple of problems / questions with my 42” a10 (not the us model).

I’ve noticed this reddishness horizontal line right at the bottom of my screen. Is this normal?


I have been playing my nVidia pc card trying to get 1280x720 working via Vga.
Could this have caused it?

Seems to happen less with our Digital SD pay-tv provider (component), but it is noticeable now that I know where it is. (Can really only see it with light colors, especially white)


I think my warranty is nearly up, so I’m stressing out a little.


My second question is. I notice there is no reset for the screen modes, so I’m wondering if I do an auto scan, does it only align the image or does it also stretch or shrink it to fit the screen?


Here are a couple of pics of the reddishness issue.


Thanks

Hey all,

I have the 50A10 and after following the suggestions on the tweaks forum I have to say I am very happy with the picture. I have have a question regarding our limited HDMI inputs, I just purchased an Oppo DV-970HD Dvd player.

I`m already using the HDMI inputs for my D* Box (Hr-20) so would I be better off connecting one over the other to the HDMI inputs ? Any suggestions or input is welcomed!

After searching around I just realized I may be forced to use the use HDMI on the Oppo if I want to take advantage of the upconversion capabilities. I guess then my question would be would I notice a loss in picture quality by using components w/ D* box?

I run my Motorola 6412 DVR via component to the A10 and HD looks very detailed and sharp. I did upgrade my component cables because the ones that the cable company provided were cheap. I recommend you do the same.

You really should hook up the Oppo to the HDMI input to get the best PQ from it. I have the Oppo 971 and it does an excellent job at upconverting to 720p. Just make sure you set the player to 720p or you won't get as good of a picture.

Thanks for the reply Dark. I think I have some good components so I`ll hook it up using those ...I`m assuming I'd have to adjust some of my settings? I spent so much time on the tweaks forum I hope I dont have to end up going backk there...it gets kind of addictive after a while!! Btw appreciate all your suggestions in there along with a couple other posters.

I thought I'd report in case some one searches for bulb/lamp life.

I just replaced my lamp with 8127 hours on it. TV was starting to get dark. I purchased lamp from ALLTVLAMPS.com Works great. It's like having a new TV!

I'd raised Iris, Picture, and Brightness as time went by. After the bulb change I had to lower all these settings. The biggest change is contrast ratio. Darks are really dark now. I'd forgotten how good the picture was when the TV was new.

The TV was on all the time we were up and about (wife and I are retired). 12-16 hours per day for the last 20 months. I bought the TV Sony 50A10 in August 2005. It's been a great TV.

Series 2 Tivo, Sony 500 PVR and XBOX 360 connected to it.

Hope this helps someone.

I havent been to this thread in a while... thought I would say thanks for all the input from everyone... I bought this tv in august of '06 largely b/c of the comments in this thread.

I am very happy with my purchase and the picture is great. The only problems I have noticed is a VERY faint redish tint around the corner- which extends toward the center of the screen (but not all the way to the middle) IT is only noticeable when the screen is black during parts of certain movies, and even then it is BARELY noticeable. Also, at times when a movie or a tv show is cutting back and forth from camera to camera (like in a dialogue between two people) and one person has more light behind them or something, the TV kind of goes from bright to dark, like it has a hard time transitioning between the sudden changes in light and dark background. This effect nearly goes away when I turn the advanced iris off. Again, this does not distract from my viewing pleasure one bit.

Are these common issues with this tv?

anyway the main purpose of this post - How do you determine how many hours your bulb has been used again? also- what should I look for to determine if my bulb is going out.. will the dimming of the picture be so gradual that I won't realize that I am losing picture quality?
I know these answers are burried in this thread somewhere, but the search feature brought up entirely too many posts!

thanks!

Once you've entered the Service Menu:

From the SERVICE TV MICRO screen :

(step 1) Press [jump] two (2) times to get to the CONFIGURATION screen.

(step 2) Press [5] one (1) time to get to: GW_SPECIAL 34

>>> SENSOR_TEMP 00 0030

(step 3) Press [1] one (1) time to get to: PANEL_TIME 01 00001490

(step 4) Press [1] one (1) time to get to: LAMP_TIME 02 00001490

In this example, the lamp has 1490 hours on it.

I copied these instructions from someone else (d-v-c, I think). Thought I would repost them here so you don't have to go looking for them. Also, about your reddish tint in the corners, Dark Rain posted that they are due to the polarizers used in these sets and cannot be tweaked out. I've noticed it on my A10, as well, but it has never affected the picture itself. Only occurs when the screen is all black. Finally, the change from light to dark is your advanced iris working...that's what it does. I leave mine off, but Dark Rain has his at low.

Mel

Hey all,

I have the 50A10 and after following the suggestions on the tweaks forum I have to say I am very happy with the picture. I have have a question regarding our limited HDMI inputs, I just purchased an Oppo DV-970HD Dvd player.

I`m already using the HDMI inputs for my D* Box (Hr-20) so would I be better off connecting one over the other to the HDMI inputs ? Any suggestions or input is welcomed!

After searching around I just realized I may be forced to use the use HDMI on the Oppo if I want to take advantage of the upconversion capabilities. I guess then my question would be would I notice a loss in picture quality by using components w/ D* box?
dannyboy

I have a Oppo 970 coming this week as well. I am having a struggle determining exactly how I am going to connect everything (many separate issues), but there appears to be a hack that allows you to upconvert the Oppo via components.
I don't have the exact instructions, but here is the thread :)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=682896&page=1&pp=30

I will try and post back if I find exact instructions.

I experienced the same reddish horizontal line all along the bottom of the screen on my E50A10 after about 9-10 months. Mine was built in October 2005 and purchased in December 2005. A Sony tech came by the house and diagnosed the problem as a failing light engine. Apparently this is not uncommon for those units with early build dates. Sony replaced the light engine at my house, it took about 1.5 hours total. My tech had done only a few before but all went well and afterwards I had the same great picture once again. My TV kept all of the settings and tweaks I had done so all settings were preserved. The new light engine was similar to the original unit however you could see additional circuits and such on the exterior so it did appear to be a new, improved design rather than just another unit of the same type and style as the original light engine that failed. It has been about six months now and the picture is fantastic, we are very pleased with the unit. I have a Panasonic S77 upconverting DVD player hooked up via HDMI and that provides a very sharp and vivid picture. Good luck but definitely call Sony while your warranty is still on. There was no hesitation by Sony in getting it fixed once the tech made the official diagnosis.

anyone have a ps3 that care to share their blu ray settings?

Thanks, but the auto-setup is a booby trap for these sets, yes I tried it several times with tongue in different positions;) Only thing Sony could suggest was the old unplug for 10 minutes for a full reset. They did say some sets have a restore to default menu right under the auto-setup? Not mine...

I have this same issue. Decided to get the VGA cable for my 360. Everything looked great. For some reason I just had to push the auto-adjust button. Now everything is overscanned south-east. I found a thread that said to reset to factory defaults, you press up arrow and power on the remote. This however doesn't work. I really wanna keep the VGA cable because I wanna upscale DVD's.

Any ideas on how to reset an E42A10 to factory defaults? I don't mind readjusting everything, I just can't stand the the overscan! :)

Just bought this tv, at target for $560. It didn't come with a remote but still looks great, It was though a display model and prolly has a lot of hours on the lamp.

What city did you buy it in? Sounds like a great deal!

I bought it in ohio, there was a boxed brand new one for 750 and this one for 550. Its still working great, also we just got a panasonic 50" for our living room.

Can anyone think of a reason that the A10 would suddenly stop accepting HDMI connection from my Tivo Series 3?

The A10 still has not problems with my Oppo DVD player through HDMI.

I upgraded some cables the other day and now I can't get the Tivo to recognize the HDMI connection no matter what I do.

I'm thinking it is not the Sony that is causing problems, but I wanted to through it out there.

There was a long string of DirecTV Tivo boxes with bad HDMI connectors. I wonder if that problem somehow carried over to the Series 3 boxes? I'd be suprised if it did, that was quite a while ago. Do you have another TV that takes HDMI that you could try the Tivo box on?

There was a long string of DirecTV Tivo boxes with bad HDMI connectors. I wonder if that problem somehow carried over to the Series 3 boxes? I'd be suprised if it did, that was quite a while ago. Do you have another TV that takes HDMI that you could try the Tivo box on?
Oh I wish I did have an extra HDMI TV around, but unfortunately I don't.

Oh I wish I did have an extra HDMI TV around, but unfortunately I don't.
:D

A neighbor or friend that will let you plug your Series 3 in to their TV? It's tough to troubleshoot these types of things, but since your DVD player is working I'm not sure how else to verify if the HDMI on the Tivo is working right.

I am trying to get to the menu to check lamp hours on my Sony TV. I pressed "display" "number 5" "volume +" and "power." I have done this in the past, but it is not working now. I am doing something wrong. Please help. Thanks in advance. WolfpackRon.

Just wanted to stop in (haven't been to this thread in a while) and say how happy I am with this TV. I have had some HDMI issues, but I am pretty sure at this point my problems have been related to cable length/hdmi wall plates, and not the TV. Obviously this TV isn't the best out there, but it sure offers alot of "bang" for the buck, and has a damn fine picture (and I only calibrated with user controls, not even the service menu).

I just have one big complaint about it, and its ALL Mr. PIBBS fault; The best pq I have EVER seem from this TV was with my laptop hooked up with almost 50' of VGA cable, set for 1:1 pixel mapping. You talk about an awesome picture! The problem is, *supposedly* the HDMI connection is supposed to offer the best PQ over the other connections. It looks *good*, don't get me wrong, but it can't touch the VGA input @ 1:1 pixel mapping. Thanks ALOT Mr. Pibb (big grin).

I just hope this TV lasts me many many years, as in my case due to inputs, screen size, physical size, etc, it was about the only TV I could find that fit physically in the "cubby" above my fireplace, and that fit my needs without breaking the bank.

I don't mean to start a flame war or anything, but since this is the GWV thread, there is NO WAY I would want the newer version of this TV (forgot the model #), that dropped the VGA input for a second HDMI input. What were they thinking??? Maybe its just my experience, but the superior PQ of the VGA input (when tweaked right) over HDMI, coupled with my bad HDMI experience has made me so thankful I pulled the trigger when I did.

I *love* this TV!

-Alan

Anybody with info on how to "factory reset" these A10's? I am still seeing overscan over VGA. Would like to reset and NOT press the auto-adjust button this time :)

I get the same overscan with VGA as I did with component on the 360. I did have the move the picture a few clicks up and to the left (i think). I think you can reset the auto adjust by selecting different output resolutions on the 360, then back to 1280x720. I know lost autio adjust before, i may have also just unplugged the VGA cable, went the the input, went to a different input, plugged it back in and went back to the input and it was underscanned like when I first plugged it in.

Anybody with info on how to "factory reset" these A10's? I am still seeing overscan over VGA. Would like to reset and NOT press the auto-adjust button this time :)
On Page 29 of the Service Manual it says:

3-1-1. Method of Setting the Service Adjustment Mode

1. Standby mode. (Power off)
2. DISPLAY + 5 + VOL (+) +TV POWER
on the remote commander.
(Press each button within a second.)

Method of setting the shipping condition

1. Service Adjustment mode.
2. Press “8” then “[ENTER]”
3. Wait until appearing “ Initial Setup” display.
4. Disconnect AC plug and connect again to change factory reset
condition completely.

Please note: I have never tried this, so use these instructions at your own risk. I am not clear as to what is meant by "shipping condition" and "factory reset condition". If you try this, please report back as to what happened.

Mel

I am trying to get to the menu to check lamp hours on my Sony TV. I pressed "display" "number 5" "volume +" and "power."

I just did it and it works. Did you power off the set before doing it?

I bought it in ohio, there was a boxed brand new one for 750 and this one for 550. Its still working great, also we just got a panasonic 50" for our living room.

I also picked up a display model w/o the romote in Beavercreek Oh today. My universal remote works fine with it for now. Should be able to find an OEM remote cheap somewhere if I feel the need. Also got Target's extended 3 year warranty as it covers at least 1 lamp replacement. (don't know if they consider the light engine a bulb or electronics - I need to find out the conditions under which they will replace it given the high hours noted below).

Checked lamp hours and it said 8375. Wow! Thats a lot of hours - 14 hours a day since it was made! Read another post where they replaced the lamp at about 8000 because it was getting dark. I have no reference, but it does seem a little dark at Dark Rain's settings - so I set auto Iris at 2 and have the brightness at about 50 to 60.

Forgot to mention that it also needs the SW fix per a check at Sony's web site.

I've got about the same no. of hours and my lamp is considerably dimmer than when it was new. A tech I know says lamp life is about 8K to 10K (hrs).

I also picked up a display model w/o the romote in Beavercreek Oh today. My universal remote works fine with it for now. Should be able to find an OEM remote cheap somewhere if I feel the need. Also got Target's extended 3 year warranty as it covers at least 1 lamp replacement. (don't know if they consider the light engine a bulb or electronics - I need to find out the conditions under which they will replace it given the high hours noted below).

Checked lamp hours and it said 8375. Wow! Thats a lot of hours - 14 hours a day since it was made! Read another post where they replaced the lamp at about 8000 because it was getting dark. I have no reference, but it does seem a little dark at Dark Rain's settings - so I set auto Iris at 2 and have the brightness at about 50 to 60.

Forgot to mention that it also needs the SW fix per a check at Sony's web site.
I bought mine from the target in centerville. I got it for 550, how much did u pay. I didn't know they had warranty but if they did, how much did u pay. I can't check the hours, since it didn't come with a remote. But overall its a great tv.

I bought mine from the target in centerville. I got it for 550, how much did u pay. I didn't know they had warranty but if they did, how much did u pay. I can't check the hours, since it didn't come with a remote. But overall its a great tv.

I paid $560 plus tax. I believe you have 90 days to pick up the warranty; just bring in your receipt. It's 3 years for $59 and includes 1 bulb replacement.

I did not get a remote either. I am using an old multi-function RCA universal remote that I had lying around. I played with it and found that INFO = DISPLAY and GO BACK = JUMP for my remote, so I can access the service menu. I agree that it's a great TV for the price.

Wow thats an awesome price for the warranty. So should I beable to go back to target and get the warranty. The free bulb replacement makes it awesome.

I've talked with someone else already and they said it's possible a light engine, but I just wanted to see if anyone else has any thing else to add.

My E50a10 has a 2 inch red (translucent) bar at the bottom. It's there no matter what you're viewing (Cable, DVD, Games). I've called Sony and they don't know what it could be.... anyone else have this?

Update on the red line across the bottom of the screen. The techs picked up the T.V. and replaced the light engine which apparently costs over $1800 canadian. I went ahead and purchased the SonyCare extended warranty for an extra 2 years...figured it would be worth it. If anyone is having this done at their home, you should maybe be thinking of getting another tech to do it because the the guys that came to pick my A10 up were saying that it's a very tricky job and is best done in a repair shop-like environment so as to minimize risk....
Update on Reddish Line along Screen Bottom - The Sony tech was here yesterday and he states that the light engine will need to be replaced. I am still under original warranty but also purchased ESP via Sonystyle so I am covered. Has anyone else had to have a light engine replaced in their A10? How does this affect the picture now that I have the red push fixed and the picture tweaked to my version of perfection? Will I have to start all over again once the light engine has been swapped out? Please share any experiences with this, good or bad.

Macdim posted on December 7, 2006, and TAMU83 posted on October 18, 2006.....Sounds like it is a light engine problem. Good luck!

Mel

I paid $560 plus tax. I believe you have 90 days to pick up the warranty; just bring in your receipt. It's 3 years for $59 and includes 1 bulb replacement.

I did not get a remote either. I am using an old multi-function RCA universal remote that I had lying around. I played with it and found that INFO = DISPLAY and GO BACK = JUMP for my remote, so I can access the service menu. I agree that it's a great TV for the price.

Just search eBay or Google for a remote model # RM-YD003 Some always show up. One sold recently for $21 shipped. I've been meaning to pick up a spare.

Anyone using VGA on the 360 know what they are going to use for the screen setting? The new setting is Standard, Intermediate, and Extended.

anyone get vertically scrolling horizontal "scan" lines using their VGA input with a PC? this thread, link (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=670840), shows you how to set up 1:1 pixel mapping, which is great for HTPC use, very crisp.

I'm trying to discover what's causing the lines. I've endlessly fiddled with the settings in powerstrip and in the windows/nvidia display settings control panel. Changing the vertical/horizontal refresh rate directly affects the issue.

While I can get it to slow to a crawl, it's never eliminated, the lines are still there and very annoying.

I just can't tell if it's the settings (since they can have an affect the problem directly), or the way the card is hooked up. Unfortunately I don't have a different card to test. Hooking up with my mom's laptop doesn't provide any scanning lines whatsoever.

Please, please any help or input is appreciated.

Maybe you have a grounding issue.

Make sure that both your TV and your computer are plugged into the same power source (wall outlet).

Make sure that your video card is seated properly in the PC slot. The metal plate on the edge of the video card should make good contact with the metal card rack on the back of your PC.

Last, but not least, try disconnecting other inputs to your PC (coax cable, DVD player, etc) and see if the lines disappear.

Does your PC generate these lines when using the VGA port to connect to a CRT computer monitor? If so, you may have a defective video card.

Maybe you have a grounding issue.

Make sure that both your TV and your computer are plugged into the same power source (wall outlet).

Make sure that your video card is seated properly in the PC slot. The metal plate on the edge of the video card should make good contact with the metal card rack on the back of your PC.

Last, but not least, try disconnecting other inputs to your PC (coax cable, DVD player, etc) and see if the lines disappear.

Does your PC generate these lines when using the VGA port to connect to a CRT computer monitor? If so, you may have a defective video card.

I've checked the grounding before. Perhaps I'll have to revisit that theory. That's what I thought it was at first a few weeks ago, after checking that and noticing that playing with the refresh rate in the custom timings directly affects the issue, I had pretty much ruled out the grounding. Most everything is run through the same outlet. The other monitor is not, but when I unplug it there is no change.

Originally Posted by Mel
Once you've entered the Service Menu:

From the SERVICE TV MICRO screen :

(step 1) Press [jump] two (2) times to get to the CONFIGURATION screen.

(step 2) Press [5] one (1) time to get to: GW_SPECIAL 34

>>> SENSOR_TEMP 00 0030

(step 3) Press [1] one (1) time to get to: PANEL_TIME 01 00001490

(step 4) Press [1] one (1) time to get to: LAMP_TIME 02 00001490

In this example, the lamp has 1490 hours on it.









I copied these instructions from someone else (d-v-c, I think). Thought I would repost them here so you don't have to go looking for them. Mel


Quick question-how do I find/ get into the service menu?

To get to the Service Menu:

(step 0) If necessary turn off TV and wait for bulb to turn off
(step 1) Press the following 4 key sequence without a pause:
(display) (5) (Volume +) (Power)
(step 2) Wait the normal turn on time for the debug screen to appear

Mel

To get to the Service Menu:

(step 0) If necessary turn off TV and wait for bulb to turn off
(step 1) Press the following 4 key sequence without a pause:
(display) (5) (Volume +) (Power)
(step 2) Wait the normal turn on time for the debug screen to appear

Mel
Thanks

I'm at 3860. Not bad if 8000 is the ave before replacement.

Has anyone gotten 1:1 pixel matching with the xbox 360 VGA cable?

1280x720, ZOOM, Auto Adjust, gives me the same overscan as component for the 360.

360 VGA users: what reference level are you using after the spring update?

Expanded, had to recalibrate with DVE for the black levels.

1280x720, ZOOM, Auto Adjust, gives me the same overscan as component for the 360.

and this is 1:1 pixel mapping?

I think so, but I am not sure how to verify if its 1:1 exactly.

While it looks damn good, I do not believe it to be 1:1 pixel mapping.

I have used Mr. Pibb's powerstrip settings to achieve 1:1 pixel mapping via VGA, and while the Xbox 360 looks good over VGA, I'm almost positive it isn't 1:1. (I keep my 360 hooked up via VGA 90% of the time, but ocassionally plug my laptop in).

Kind of off subject, but at the same time relavent...I love my TV, but that is one thing I was a little bummed about-IIRC, the HDMI spec allows for a *native* signal to "bypass" all processing circuitry of the TV to allow the signal to be displayed with 1:1 pixel mapping. Unfotunately, this TV insists on scaling/processing every signal, so even when fed 720p via HDMI, it refuses to display it in 1:1.

In layman's terms, the best looking pic I have ever seen thru this TV is a PC setup for 1:1 pixel mapping over the VGA connection. It blows even the HDMI conneciton away.

-Alan

As pleased as I am with the component picture, I'm going to wait until I can find the VGA cables for dirt cheap. Perhaps I can get them from a store just to see the difference, and then return if I'm not happy.

Expanded, had to recalibrate with DVE for the black levels.

What settings are you using as far as brightness, iris, etc?

What settings are you using as far as brightness, iris, etc?

I also use expanded but would like to know what brightness iris etc on dve cali.

Anybody have this problem with their A10?

I turn it on and the picture comes on for just a second and then shuts down then followed by 4 blinking red lights on the standby light.

I tried unplugging the set for up to 30 minutes but it just keeps doing the same thing.

I am a new member and any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Anybody have this problem with their A10?

I turn it on and the picture comes on for just a second and then shuts down then followed by 4 blinking red lights on the standby light.

I tried unplugging the set for up to 30 minutes but it just keeps doing the same thing.

I am a new member and any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
The service manual says that if the fan is not working, the Power/Standby LED will bilnk 4 times. Have your fan checked.

Mel

Mel,

Thanks for the info.

Greg

Anybody have this problem with their A10?

I turn it on and the picture comes on for just a second and then shuts down then followed by 4 blinking red lights on the standby light.

I tried unplugging the set for up to 30 minutes but it just keeps doing the same thing.

I am a new member and any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

I had the same problem and it turned out to be the power supply....set was 1 1/2 years old.

(Glad I had the extended warranty!!!)

When the repairman was working on it, sounded like the 4 blinking lights could've been a number of things, but he thought that was the most likely.

Initially he tried a new bulb, but that didn't help.....

I had the same problem and it turned out to be the power supply....set was 1 1/2 years old.

(Glad I had the extended warranty!!!)

When the repairman was working on it, sounded like the 4 blinking lights could've been a number of things, but he thought that was the most likely.

Initially he tried a new bulb, but that didn't help.....
Did they fix it or give you a new set?

Originally Posted by philherz
I had the same problem and it turned out to be the power supply....set was 1 1/2 years old.

(Glad I had the extended warranty!!!)

When the repairman was working on it, sounded like the 4 blinking lights could've been a number of things, but he thought that was the most likely.

Initially he tried a new bulb, but that didn't help.....


Did they fix it or give you a new set?

It was pretty crazy......after he tried the bulb, he had to order a power supply.

10 days later, he attempted to replace the power supply which was deep inside the set. He got part way there and noticed (caused?) a contector to a circuit board was off.

They took the set back to the shop....not sure if a power supply should be a home repair with all of the components he had to remove.

Got it back few days later and all has been fine for the last 3 months........

Anybody with info on how to "factory reset" these A10's? I am still seeing overscan over VGA. Would like to reset and NOT press the auto-adjust button this time :)On Page 29 of the Service Manual it says:

3-1-1. Method of Setting the Service Adjustment Mode

1. Standby mode. (Power off)
2. DISPLAY + 5 + VOL (+) +TV POWER
on the remote commander.
(Press each button within a second.)

Method of setting the shipping condition

1. Service Adjustment mode.
2. Press “8” then “[ENTER]”
3. Wait until appearing “Initial Setup” display.
4. Disconnect AC plug and connect again to change factory reset
condition completely.

Please note: I have never tried this, so use these instructions at your own risk. I am not clear as to what is meant by "shipping condition" and "factory reset condition". If you try this, please report back as to what happened.

MelOK guys, I bit the bullet and gave it a try. It worked. :D Totally reset all settings I had changed (red push, overscan etc.) back to day one. I went back into the Service Menu afterward to confirm the settings had been changed. I figured there had to be a backup file in there, like any other backup file, just in case something got screwed up. Thanks to Melanotheron for the post.

Follow the standard procedure above to enter the service menu. From the main screen, push "jump" once to get to the next screen. Then press "8" and you'll see the word "SERVICE" in the upper right hand corner change to "RESET" in yellow. Then press "ent" under the number 9 on your remote. I think steps 3 & 4 above are reversed. Read below...

At first I panicked as the "Initial Setup" didn't display. :eek: So I waited a few minutes... still nothing. Waited up to 30 minutes and still no Initial Setup display, so I figured what the heck and unplugged the set. Waited a few more minutes and plugged it back in. The set came on with the "Initial Setup" displayed, and asked me what language I wanted, just like when it was new. I was then asked to do a channel scan, which I did, and when it was through everything was back to normal, with all the options in the user menu at default settings. I had to redo my picture settings for color, contrast etc. Also reset the clock.

So there you go. As Melanotheron mentions, "Please note: I have never tried this, so use these instructions at your own risk." So don't blame us if you screw up. If you're unsure how to do this, DON'T DO IT!!! It worked for me though. YMMV. Good luck!

OK guys, I bit the bullet and gave it a try. It worked. :D Totally reset all settings I had changed (red push, overscan etc.) back to day one. I went back into the Service Menu afterward to confirm the settings had been changed. I figured there had to be a backup file in there, like any other backup file, just in case something got screwed up. Thanks to Melanotheron for the post.

Follow the standard procedure above to enter the service menu. From the main screen, push "jump" once to get to the next screen. Then press "8" and you'll see the word "SERVICE" in the upper right hand corner change to "RESET" in yellow. Then press "ent" under the number 9 on your remote. I think steps 3 & 4 above are reversed. Read below...

At first I panicked as the "Initial Setup" didn't display. :eek: So I waited a few minutes... still nothing. Waited up to 30 minutes and still no Initial Setup display, so I figured what the heck and unplugged the set. Waited a few more minutes and plugged it back in. The set came on with the "Initial Setup" displayed, and asked me what language I wanted, just like when it was new. I was then asked to do a channel scan, which I did, and when it was through everything was back to normal, with all the options in the user menu at default settings. I had to redo my picture settings for color, contrast etc. Also reset the clock.

So there you go. As Melanotheron mentions, "Please note: I have never tried this, so use these instructions at your own risk." So don't blame us if you screw up. If you're unsure how to do this, DON'T DO IT!!! It worked for me though. YMMV. Good luck!

Just to be clear, usually when we change the settings - "red push, etc." we hit "jump" twice from the main screen. To do the reset, we just hit once? Correct?

Thanks for being the guinea pig on this one, Yawny.

Phil

Just to be clear, usually when we change the settings - "red push, etc." we hit "jump" twice from the main screen. To do the reset, we just hit once? Correct?

Thanks for being the guinea pig on this one, Yawny.

PhilPhil, that is correct. From the main screen press jump once and you'll see what I describe in my above post. One thing I noticed though, the settings for Video 4 that I had changed (red push, overscan) stayed the same. You might have to be in a specific input for the reset to work. I may try it again on Video 4 and let you know. If you try the reset, let us know how it goes. Again, good luck!

Phil, that is correct. From the main screen press jump once and you'll see what I describe in my above post. One thing I noticed though, the settings for Video 4 that I had changed (red push, overscan) stayed the same. You might have to be in a specific input for the reset to work. I may try it again on Video 4 and let you know. If you try the reset, let us know how it goes. Again, good luck!

I tried it at lunch, Yawny, and I honestly can't tell if it worked or not. I had the same issue you did, the screen went blank and my green power light stayed on. After a few minutes of this, I unplugged and re-plugged after a 10 count, at which point the setup screen appeared. All my user settings went to factory reset and it appears that some of my red push settings did as well.

After the "reset" - vivid settings were 0002 - 0046 across all resolutions; standard settings were 0002 - 003c for HD resolutions and 0000-003c for SD resolutions and Custom settings were 0002 - 003c for HD and 0000- 003c for SD.

However, I noticed that the "live color" was on "low," which I forgot was the standard factory condition for the custom setting. When I turned "live color" off, my custom settings went to 0000 - 0017 (which was my red push fix). Live Medium was 0002 - 0046 and High was also 0002-0046.

I recall changing redpush on standard a long time ago, so I'm pretty sure this "reset" changed those figures - but the custom setting of 0000-0017 befuddles me. It is either the factory setting or the "reset" did not reset my redpush setting for that particular color mode.

any thoughts?

Should we have let the screen stay blank longer after hitting "ent." I have the service manual and it clearly says "wait until appearing initial setup display" after telling you to hit "8" and "ent."

By the way, the screen after the first jump in the service menu is the only screen where you will get a yellow "reset." If you hit "8" on any other screen, the letters will flash, but nothing else happens.

Phil

OK guys, I bit the bullet and gave it a try. It worked. :D Totally reset all settings I had changed (red push, overscan etc.) back to day one. YMMV. Good luck!
I tried it at lunch, Yawny, and I honestly can't tell if it worked or not.
Well, you guys are certainly braver than me. I quoted the service manual, as written, so it is good that Yawny found out that steps 3 & 4 are reversed. I'm glad you reported back, though, because it is good to know that you can reset the settings (maybe). The service manual doesn't say anything about different inputs or resolutions, so I can't explain Phil's results on Video 4 input. Thanks for pioneering this, guys, I was curious myself but I don't have cobblers big enough to try it.

Hi guys,

Awhile back in the a10 tweak thread i asked for help getting some default overscan settings since i lost my default sheet, anyway I wrote down my settings again and tried this reset ( tried letting the tv stand blank for 10 minutes then unplugged it, tried unplugging it right after hitting enter) each tiem when i went back to the service menu the settings were the same.

I think this is pretty much doing the same reset you get when you hold the up arrow on the remote and press the power button on the tv.

Only thing i can come up with is that Maybe Yawny didn't "write" his settings to the eprom when he changed the values, in which case the reset or unplugging the tv will reset them.

My 2 cents , as i continue to try to find a way to get those settigns or to restore my tv's overscan defaults

in the middle of trying to solve a different problem, I had that auto-adjust overscan problem occur also. Solving the other problem required trying many, many times changing the resolution setting on a PC via the VGA input. Through the course of doing so, I could get the overscan error to reset to its proper location. I was switching between resolutions of 1024x746, 1224x688, and sometimes 1280x720. This happened a few times (I was working on the 1:1 pixel map). I guess sometimes the auto-adjust kinks up and it's a pain to reset, but it is possible. Hope that helps you some.

anyone have a ps3 that care to share their blu ray settings?

As with all setting adjustments, this is per my taste and room. I like a bit bolder
colors than some, and view/play in a well-lit room (two lamps behind the TV.)
I have the PS3 hooked up via HDMI.

-Red push fix implemented, I use CH_AXIS setting 0002 instead of the default
0046. I haven't seen any green flesh tones others complained of at 0002 yet.

Iris 3
Picture Max (yes, you read that correctly)
Bright 50
Color 60
Hue G2
Color Temp Neutral
Sharpness 25
Noise reduction Off
Black corrector Off
Advanced Iris Low
Gamma Max

Remaining options below all set to off.

I have a couple of noob questions about versions of HDMI. I have the 42A10,
and I have a PS3 hooked up to it with HDMI.

-Does our TV support HDMI 1.3?

Edit: While in the debug screen, I saw at the bottom HDMI 1.3, so it appears
that question is answered, and this TV DOES support it. Still need help on the
next question though.

-If so, to take advantage of it, would I need to buy a 1.3 HDMI cable, or
are all HDMI cables the same, and the PS3's firmware updates would enable it?

Edit: After poking around for a while, I found out that there are indeed Cat-2
HDMI cables which are compatible with HDMI 1.3. Just go to monoprice's
website and look for the length you need.

Hi guys,

Awhile back in the a10 tweak thread i asked for help getting some default overscan settings since i lost my default sheet, anyway I wrote down my settings again and tried this reset ( tried letting the tv stand blank for 10 minutes then unplugged it, tried unplugging it right after hitting enter) each tiem when i went back to the service menu the settings were the same.

I think this is pretty much doing the same reset you get when you hold the up arrow on the remote and press the power button on the tv.

Only thing i can come up with is that Maybe Yawny didn't "write" his settings to the eprom when he changed the values, in which case the reset or unplugging the tv will reset them.

My 2 cents , as i continue to try to find a way to get those settigns or to restore my tv's overscan defaults

I agree with your assessment, Renzo. There is no other reason why my custom stayed at 0000-0017. The service manual refers to it as "setting the shipping condition." The only time you see "reset" is when you hit the "8" button. It seems that the user settings went back to default.

I found where I wrote down my initial settings when I made the red push fix, but my notes are unfortunately unclear. It merely says "HD 0002 - 003b" and "SD 0000 or 00002 - 003b" What are the initial shipping settings for standard and Custom? I'm pretty sure they are 0000-003b for SD and 00002-0003b for HD. If so, the service manual "reset" did nothing more than the User manual "reset."

Phil

i just changed my a10 settings from what i've always used on xbox. now it's way brighter and looks awesome (IMO). im used to my super bright computer monitor

iris 3
picture max
bright 50
color 60
temp COOL (not neutral)
hue whatever
rest of stuff same as Nicodmius

Don't know if this is the right board or not......but here goes. Last night my SONY 55" rear-projection TV just lost all power and stopped operating completely. Fan stopped, picture, audio, etc. Red power light blinks 6 times....waits approx. 3 sec. then blinks another 6 times,,,etc. Had set approx. 20 months.....lamp has never been replaced. Does this act like a lamp burnt out or something more costly? Thanks.

found out on another thread this could be a thermocoupler fuse problem. Apparently sets made in aug/sept 05 had this problem.

It's been a while since I explored the idea of connecting my PC to my A10. This threat has grown massive! Is it still prefered to connect the PC via VGA or have good 1:1 mapping powerstrip settings been found for a DVI-HDMI solution? Also allowing games to run at this resolution too and not just the desktop?

According to manual hdmi 1.2a, I don't even think when they made this tv no sony tv's supported hdmi 1.3a not even the sxrd's did at that time. Cables should not matter about hdmi 1.3a as long as they are a name brand and not really very old.


I have a couple of noob questions about versions of HDMI. I have the 42A10,
and I have a PS3 hooked up to it with HDMI.

-Does our TV support HDMI 1.3?

Edit: While in the debug screen, I saw at the bottom HDMI 1.3, so it appears
that question is answered, and this TV DOES support it. Still need help on the
next question though.

-If so, to take advantage of it, would I need to buy a 1.3 HDMI cable, or
are all HDMI cables the same, and the PS3's firmware updates would enable it?

Edit: After poking around for a while, I found out that there are indeed Cat-2
HDMI cables which are compatible with HDMI 1.3. Just go to monoprice's
website and look for the length you need.

According to manual hdmi 1.2a, I don't even think when they made this tv no sony tv's supported hdmi 1.3a.

If this TV doesn't support HDMI 1.3, then in debug mode why does it say at the bottom of the screen in big letters:

"HDMI: 1.3"

The past few days, my TV has had a light blue color on the left-hand side of the
screen on any white screens (the Namco/Bandai logo screen from Tekken 5 DR
for example.) Last week, the same screen was white all the way across. What
happened in the last few days that could have caused this, and how do I
correct it?

I have big purple blotches on the top right and left side of my screen. been there for like 4 months can only see them in bright scenes im debating on when to call to get it fixed id hate to have to play 360 on my old tv or even watch it. Any one know how circuit city works when they repair a tv i should just call em but im scared of the news ill get be like well send a repair man, oh u need a new traptogazmotater you can pick up your tv in 2 to 6 weeks. I have a year left on my warranty was thinking of waiting till the last minute hoping they cant fix it to get my my money back or a newer tv

The past few days, my TV has had a light blue color on the left-hand side of the screen on any white screens (the Namco/Bandai logo screen from Tekken 5 DR for example.) Last week, the same screen was white all the way across. What happened in the last few days that could have caused this, and how do I correct it?

Not sure, but it sounds like what happened to mine, kind of turquois/green/blue blotch, and I had to have the light engine replaced by the local service place, and he took it for 3 or 4 days!! At least that was what the service guy said needed to be done, but who knows, maybe he got a better deal from Sony for that instead of cleaning something or blowing the dust off something. I don't know, but it's OK now.

My current bulb has over 8k hours and it still works fine. I replaced it with another bulb to compare the picture quality and can't really tell the differnece. My service menu still shows same 8k hours on the bulb.

Question -
Since service menu doesn't really know I changed the bulb, how do I know if the new bulb is really new? Is there a way to find out how many hours on the 2nd bulb?

Thanks

If this TV doesn't support HDMI 1.3, then in debug mode why does it say at the bottom of the screen in big letters:

"HDMI: 1.3"

I really was not trying to say it would not take a cable with hdmi 1.3 specs but the tv should not process any of the capabalities of hdmi 1.3 such as deep color or dolby true hd sound. I don't even think the tv can handle a 1080p input via hdmi.

I have big purple blotches on the top right and left side of my screen. been there for like 4 months can only see them in bright scenes im debating on when to call to get it fixed id hate to have to play 360 on my old tv or even watch it. Any one know how circuit city works when they repair a tv i should just call em but im scared of the news ill get be like well send a repair man, oh u need a new traptogazmotater you can pick up your tv in 2 to 6 weeks. I have a year left on my warranty was thinking of waiting till the last minute hoping they cant fix it to get my my money back or a newer tv

The past few days, my TV has had a light blue color on the left-hand side of the screen on any white screens (the Namco/Bandai logo screen from Tekken 5 DR for example.) Last week, the same screen was white all the way across. What
happened in the last few days that could have caused this, and how do I
correct it?

Funny, first I started to notice some Image Retention of the side bars as I do use 4:3. Then, I started to get a light blue transparent vertical line but wasn't visible in darker scenes. I then got the purple blobs.... I did get the CC warranty since its cost was about the cost of the bulb and the plan allows for 1 bulb replacement. Anyway, I called CC and a repairman came by within a few days. In a matter of a split-second, he said "you're projector is gone". He had to order it and returned about 10 days later. He fixed it in my home. That's part of the warranty.. in home service... It took about 1 1/2 hours and all is well. So, I highly suggest calling CC as I am very pleased with how the whole process went.

Btw, he asked if I smoked or burned candles, which I don't. Apparently, that sort of thing must mess up something or dirty the lense, etc.... After mentioning that the tv is on 12+ hours per day, he said that possibly heat may have contributed to the problem. He suggested dusting frequently, btw.

He did a make comment but I don't recall exactly how he worded it it, but the point was Sony wasn't too happy about the number of projector replacements in these tvs.

Hectar

hmm i do smoke but when i bought the tv figured it be safe to smoke in the room the tv was in since it didnt mention not to smoke in the manual. im pretty sure i read the manual and didnt see anything mentioned about smoking might have to reread the manual. when you say it took ten days did he leave your tv at your house in working condition be nice to be able to use the tv while he sends for parts thanks for the cc info

hmm i do smoke but when I bought the tv figured it be safe to smoke in the room the tv was in since it didnt mention not to smoke in the manual. im pretty sure i read the manual and didnt see anything mentioned about smoking might have to reread the manual. when you say it took ten days did he leave your tv at your house in working condition be nice to be able to use the tv while he sends for parts thanks for the cc info

Nothing in the manual about smoke that I see.... but a few "dust" mentions... keep the vents clean to avoid overheating and such.... Btw, I just realized that the tv will warn if it's overheating, so, although my tv was on all day and surely got hot, apparently not hot enough to trigger the warning. So, maybe Sony just had some poorly made projectors and the repairman was speculating about why my projector went.

Yes, he left the tv in my house so I could use it while he ordered the parts.

All the work was done right on the tv stand. He simply unhooked the cables and turned the tv around. Simple as that.

Of course, the drawback is that someone has to be home for the repairman to first check to see what the problem is and again when he comes back.

I don't know if I'm the "rule" or the "exception", but all went well in my case and the new projector has resolved all of the problems.

Hectar

3 blue faint circles appeared on my tv practically overnight. They are pretty much right in the middle of each other and a few millimeters apart. They are arranged like the lights on Sam Fisher's night vision goggles (For Those familiar with Splinter Cell). Does anybody have any idea what these might be and if there is a way to fix the problem?

Hey, I have a 50" A10. I want to buy a PS3 and start collecting blu-rays. Will they look good on our TV? I checked the specs and the 720p native resolution scared me, considering all the blu-rays are 1080p. Do u think i would see a difference between blu-ray on hdmi compared to dvd over components?

3 blue faint circles appeared on my tv practically overnight. They are pretty much right in the middle of each other and a few millimeters apart. They are arranged like the lights on Sam Fisher's night vision goggles (For Those familiar with Splinter Cell). Does anybody have any idea what these might be and if there is a way to fix the problem?

I have a similar problem except mine is a lot more spots on my screen. I called a couple of places and they told me that it is dirt or dust inside the light tunnel? and that it needs to be cleaned inside to get this taken care of. Needless to say I did not take out the extended warranty like an idiot and they wanted like 300 bucks to do this so I am debating it right now. Can anyone verify i this is correct as it needs to be cleaned?

I have a similar problem except mine is a lot more spots on my screen. I called a couple of places and they told me that it is dirt or dust inside the light tunnel? and that it needs to be cleaned inside to get this taken care of. Needless to say I did not take out the extended warranty like an idiot and they wanted like 300 bucks to do this so I am debating it right now. Can anyone verify i this is correct as it needs to be cleaned?

Any idea on how to get to the light tunnel? I just took out my bulb and found alot of dust on it to my surprise, I wasn't expecting that dust would have been able to get in there. So since you say that the guy told you it may be dirt/dust on the light tunnel it seem feasible to me now.

Hi Guys,

I'm a happy owner of a 42" A10 but one feature of it is getting annoying. There is an automatic switch to "Full" mode that happens when I use 480i material and want "Normal" For most TV watching I use my set top box with component 720p output and things are fine. If I switch to the VCR (strictly 480i in through an S VHS cable) the set keeps switching to Full. If is set it back to Normal and fast forward through a commercial, it resets to Full. I've tried all combinations of "wide" modes and 4 by3 default and they make no difference, I can't keep the set in Normal (and I don't like full or zoom modes!).

Most other Sony chassis have a feature called "Autowide" and give a menu option of "Autowide off". This is clearly an autowide feature in opperation but the Wega Gate menu doesn't address it. I wonder if there is a service menu option for it? I've searched most of the A10 thread and although some people comment on the same issue I can't find a solution.

So, is there a service menu option?? (autowide off)

Thanks,
David Smith

Any idea on how to get to the light tunnel? I just took out my bulb and found alot of dust on it to my surprise, I wasn't expecting that dust would have been able to get in there. So since you say that the guy told you it may be dirt/dust on the light tunnel it seem feasible to me now.

Yeah when i called 2 Sony authorized repair centers and told them what I had they both told me they thought it was dust inside it and that it only needed a good cleaning. Only thing stopping me is the cost of it as i do not have an extended warranty. I did not know if anyone on this board had any experience with it and has actually tried to clean theirs with any luck. I did the same thing with the bulb but mine did not have a lot of dust and I cleaned it but it did not help.

Yeah when i called 2 Sony authorized repair centers and told them what I had they both told me they thought it was dust inside it and that it only needed a good cleaning. Only thing stopping me is the cost of it as i do not have an extended warranty. I did not know if anyone on this board had any experience with it and has actually tried to clean theirs with any luck. I did the same thing with the bulb but mine did not have a lot of dust and I cleaned it but it did not help.

I'm gonna try to clean it today, do you know what that shiny thing with the squares is? After you take out the bulb it's right there, looks like beam splitting mirrors. I found this image of Sony's 3-panel LCD light engine of a Sony Grand Wega TV

http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/reviews/20040720/GrandWega.jpg

http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/ISEO-rgbtcspd/learningcenter/home/tv_bigscreen.html?print=1&page=all

(scroll down)

Interesting picture. The only beamsplitters I see are the two that separate red, green, and blue.

How much comes out with the bulb, just the bulb itself? Does the reflector come out with it? The square right after the bulb looks like it is just a piece of glass, maybe to seal the "light tube", then a mirror, then it looks like some optics to help improve the collimation of the light. I wonder if that whole assembly is enclosed inside a "dust proof" box? It might be hard to get in there and clean things if everything is enclosed. You certainly don't want to knock anything out of alignment.

Interesting picture. The only beamsplitters I see are the two that separate red, green, and blue.

How much comes out with the bulb, just the bulb itself? Does the reflector come out with it? The square right after the bulb looks like it is just a piece of glass, maybe to seal the "light tube", then a mirror, then it looks like some optics to help improve the collimation of the light. I wonder if that whole assembly is enclosed inside a "dust proof" box? It might be hard to get in there and clean things if everything is enclosed. You certainly don't want to knock anything out of alignment.

Well seems that issues people have occur with the blue light area, because most of these blobs we see on screen is blue. Either a particle is on something perhaps a mirror just before it goes into the box in the middle and then projected out. So maybe the particle makes that portion stay blue instead of white light or multicolored.

I'm gonna try to clean it today, do you know what that shiny thing with the squares is? After you take out the bulb it's right there, looks like beam splitting mirrors. I found this image of Sony's 3-panel LCD light engine of a Sony Grand Wega TV

http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/reviews/20040720/GrandWega.jpg

http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/ISEO-rgbtcspd/learningcenter/home/tv_bigscreen.html?print=1&page=all

(scroll down)

nice picture.. I honestly am not sure what is behind the light. I saw what you were talking about but not sure what it is. If you do clean yours please let me know the results as i would love to attempt it but am afraid to do it as i am not sure how much is involved in taking it apart.

CHeck this forum out

http://www.agoraquest.com/viewtopic.php?topic=23246&forum=34

CHeck this forum out

http://review.agoraquest.com/viewtopic.php?topic=26237&forum=34&start=0&select_page_number=1

My problem is no where as huge as that. Mine are 2, I thought it was originally 3 but it's 2 faint blue ovals about half an inch to a inch big. There are located alittle bit below the center of the screen. There's a little faint patch of blue that connects the two blue ovals, and these oval are one over the other.

Here's a little diagram representing my tv and the spots. My cam is missing

http://img482.imageshack.us/img482/8080/sonyfk3.png

Hi Guys,

I'm a happy owner of a 42" A10 but one feature of it is getting annoying. There is an automatic switch to "Full" mode that happens when I use 480i material and want "Normal" For most TV watching I use my set top box with component 720p output and things are fine. If I switch to the VCR (strictly 480i in through an S VHS cable) the set keeps switching to Full. If is set it back to Normal and fast forward through a commercial, it resets to Full. I've tried all combinations of "wide" modes and 4 by3 default and they make no difference, I can't keep the set in Normal (and I don't like full or zoom modes!).

Most other Sony chassis have a feature called "Autowide" and give a menu option of "Autowide off". This is clearly an autowide feature in opperation but the Wega Gate menu doesn't address it. I wonder if there is a service menu option for it? I've searched most of the A10 thread and although some people comment on the same issue I can't find a solution.

So, is there a service menu option?? (autowide off)

Thanks,
David Smith

Are you using the remote to set the screen to normal?

My A10 has an option in the Wega gate menu for 4:3 default screen size options are
"Wide zoom"
"Normal"
"Full"
"Zoom"
"Off"

I leave mine at normal, and don't experience this result.

Have you tried going into The Wega gate settings >screen> 4:3 default, and changing the settings?

Hi Bijenjas,

Thanks for the response but I've tried the wide/normal/zoom route and also the 4:3 default settings with no improvement. I can set to Normal and get 4:3 unzoomed but changing source or even fast forwarding a tape has the tv reset the screen mode. I'm pretty sure this is an "autowide" feature deciding that I should be in wide rather than normal. Setting 4:3 default either to normal or off doesn't prevent it from jumping from normal to wide.

Its pretty annoying.

Thanks,
David

My problem is no where as huge as that. Mine are 2, I thought it was originally 3 but it's 2 faint blue ovals about half an inch to a inch big. There are located alittle bit below the center of the screen. There's a little faint patch of blue that connects the two blue ovals, and these oval are one over the other.

Here's a little diagram representing my tv and the spots. My cam is missing

http://img482.imageshack.us/img482/8080/sonyfk3.png

Mine is the same way but i have more of the spots try this thread instead of the one previously posted

http://www.agoraquest.com/viewtopic.php?topic=23246&forum=34

I think the optical engine just needs to be cleaned

Also this post on this site has an example of what mine look like

http://www.agoraquest.com/viewtopic.php?topic=28602&forum=34

I private messaged the person on that forum to get the instructions on how to clean the optiical assembly and am just waiting to hear back from them. When i get it I am going to clean it and see what results i get. Others on that site claim it fixed their spots.

Mine is the same way but i have more of the spots try this thread instead of the one previously posted

http://www.agoraquest.com/viewtopic.php?topic=23246&forum=34

I think the optical engine just needs to be cleaned

Also this post on this site has an example of what mine look like

http://www.agoraquest.com/viewtopic.php?topic=28602&forum=34

I private messaged the person on that forum to get the instructions on how to clean the optiical assembly and am just waiting to hear back from them. When i get it I am going to clean it and see what results i get. Others on that site claim it fixed their spots.

When you get the instructions on how he did it send it this way please. At the same time my spots are kinda starting to not be such a bother almsot like they are disappearing little by little each day. So it will be a tough decision whether to go ahead with disassembly and cleaning.

Hey, I have a 50" A10. I want to buy a PS3 and start collecting blu-rays. Will they look good on our TV? I checked the specs and the 720p native resolution scared me, considering all the blu-rays are 1080p. Do u think i would see a difference between blu-ray on hdmi compared to dvd over components?

I picked up an RCA HDV5000 HD DVD player cheaply recently and hooked it up to the 42A10 via the HDMI and switched my cablebox to component. Looks fantastic even if the TV is only 720P. IMHO you'd be best off hooking the PS3 up over the HDMI simply because it would provide better bandwidth than most other HD sources (if I recall both Blu Ray and HD DVD supply much more data than most cable/satellite HD feeds) so you might as well feed the TV the most. There is also a possibility that future Blu Ray or HD DVD releases will down res the signal through component inputs. My advice is don't let the 1080P of the content scare you, this TV will still look mighty good with HD from Blu Ray or HD DVD.

Just figured I'd give a report on how my set is doing since I was posting here. I've had my 42A10 pratically since it came out (I'm just shy of 2 years). Still on the original bulb. No problems at all. Only had the service with the flash for the power down issue or whatever it was (that I never experienced anyway). HD via OTA, cable box (via component) and HD DVD via HDMI. SVHS VCR to one of the SVHS inputs, LD to one of the composite intputs. Never really had any compatibility issues with it or anything else out of the ordinary. I'm sure it will be due for a new bulb and some point eventually but still looking good at the present juncture so far as picture.

I picked up an RCA HDV5000 HD DVD player cheaply recently and hooked it up to the 42A10 via the HDMI and switched my cablebox to component. Looks fantastic even if the TV is only 720P. IMHO you'd be best off hooking the PS3 up over the HDMI simply because it would provide better bandwidth than most other HD sources (if I recall both Blu Ray and HD DVD supply much more data than most cable/satellite HD feeds) so you might as well feed the TV the most. There is also a possibility that future Blu Ray or HD DVD releases will down res the signal through component inputs. My advice is don't let the 1080P of the content scare you, this TV will still look mighty good with HD from Blu Ray or HD DVD.

Thanks for responding. I do plan to get the HDMI cable I just wanted to know if the PS3 playing blu-rays would look good on our tv. Thanks

Thanks for responding. I do plan to get the HDMI cable I just wanted to know if the PS3 playing blu-rays would look good on our tv. Thanks

Just my opinion but my 42a10 will not accept a 1080p signal so hdmi really should not make much of a difference. The max resolution from ps3/blueray thru 42a10 should be on 1080i which should look just fine through component. Even though I must say a 1080p tv would be nice from what I have read the eye can only see the difference in resolution on a very large screen say 60+ inches setting about 12 feet away or setting about 4 feet away and you want see all the jaggies you will see.

Been considering an ESP from Sonystyle, but I can't seem to get anywhere on the Sonystyle website. When I click on the "extended service plans" link, I just get a page with a bunch of products, but no ESP. Anyone else have this problem?

Been considering an ESP from Sonystyle, but I can't seem to get anywhere on the Sonystyle website. When I click on the "extended service plans" link, I just get a page with a bunch of products, but no ESP. Anyone else have this problem?

Tried to post link or PM link but can't since I don't have more than 5 posts.

Basically go to sony main page (not sonystyle)
Type in "extended warranty" on the search box on that page
First search result should be "Sony Extended Service Plans"
Click on "Televisions"

There is a link to the terms and pricing on that page. Looks like you can order online from the pricing page, I had to call when I got the warranty back in Jan. You have 11 months from the date of purchase to still get the warranty.

Quick question for you GW owners/techs. I recently got a free kdf-e42a10 from my girlfriends parents. The unit will turn on fine and the picture will display fine for about 3 minutes. Then the screen will go black, the standby light will flash green 48 times, then turn on for another 3 minutes or so...in a non-stop loop. They took it in and they were told it needed a light engine and a new bulb. They replaced the tv, and I took it to take a look at it. Tried to download the service manual that was noted earlier, but the link was broken. Does anyone have the service manual, or a correct link? Any info on the problem??? The lamp has almost 7200 hours on it, but I am very hesitant to buy a bulb if there are further problems and it uses a different model bulb than my 60" sony does. Thanks for any input. PS....not trusting the place they took it to, which is why I am asking...I know there are honest techs out there...I am one...just with computers though, so just wondering if anyone had any similar experience

Quick question for you GW owners/techs. I recently got a free kdf-e42a10 from my girlfriends parents. The unit will turn on fine and the picture will display fine for about 3 minutes. Then the screen will go black, the standby light will flash green 48 times, then turn on for another 3 minutes or so...in a non-stop loop. They took it in and they were told it needed a light engine and a new bulb. They replaced the tv, and I took it to take a look at it. Tried to download the service manual that was noted earlier, but the link was broken. Does anyone have the service manual, or a correct link? Any info on the problem??? The lamp has almost 7200 hours on it, but I am very hesitant to buy a bulb if there are further problems and it uses a different model bulb than my 60" sony does. Thanks for any input. PS....not trusting the place they took it to, which is why I am asking...I know there are honest techs out there...I am one...just with computers though, so just wondering if anyone had any similar experience


Where are you located? You might be able to find someone who can let you borrow the bulb for an hour. I would, if you were in my area (Philly)

Thanks for the response but I've tried the wide/normal/zoom route and also the 4:3 default settings with no improvement. I can set to Normal and get 4:3 unzoomed but changing source or even fast forwarding a tape has the tv reset the screen mode. I'm pretty sure this is an "autowide" feature deciding that I should be in wide rather than normal. Setting 4:3 default either to normal or off doesn't prevent it from jumping from normal to wide

Since your input is always 480i, I believe the guaranteed method to fix your problem is to set the "4:3 Default" setting to OFF. Then use the remote to manually set the display mode to "Normal". With the 4:3 default set to off, the TV will not automatically switch modes.

The usual method of doing what you wish is to set the "4:3 Default" to "Normal". I'm not sure why this is not working for you.

Make sure you are setting this while using that particular input.

Tried to post link or PM link but can't since I don't have more than 5 posts.

Basically go to sony main page (not sonystyle)
Type in "extended warranty" on the search box on that page
First search result should be "Sony Extended Service Plans"
Click on "Televisions"

There is a link to the terms and pricing on that page. Looks like you can order online from the pricing page, I had to call when I got the warranty back in Jan. You have 11 months from the date of purchase to still get the warranty.

Many thanks, just ordered the three year plan, hope I don't need it ;)

I've talked with someone else already and they said it's possible a light engine, but I just wanted to see if anyone else has any thing else to add.

My E50a10 has a 2 inch red (translucent) bar at the bottom. It's there no matter what you're viewing (Cable, DVD, Games). I've called Sony and they don't know what it could be.... anyone else have this?

I have the same problem. The red at the bottom about 2 inches up and at the top theres is a bright white band all the way across. I was told it was the optical block assembly. Thats what they ordered and will be at the house thursday to fix it. Im wondering if its the correct part. It better be considering it took Tweeter 2 months to get the part.

Hey gang - maybe you guys can help me out.

I'm having some problems when trying to play a DVD. I've tried 3 different DVD players so it's either a problem with the TV or component connection (or both).

I'm either getting a distorted picture, or it's bright red or no picture at all..just snow. The sound is fine.

Anyone experience this type of problem or any suggestions?

I do have a warranty

TIA.

Hey gang - maybe you guys can help me out.

I'm having some problems when trying to play a DVD. I've tried 3 different DVD players so it's either a problem with the TV or component connection (or both).

I'm either getting a distorted picture, or it's bright red or no picture at all..just snow. The sound is fine.

Anyone experience this type of problem or any suggestions?

I do have a warranty

TIA.

Things to try (in case you haven't) that might help you debug the problem:

1) Try different inputs on the TV (e.g. Input 1 vs. Input 2, etc.)

2) Try different video connections (e.g. component vs. hdmi vs s-video vs composite)

3) If using component, make sure the DVD player is configured to use its component output. I know when I set up a friend's DVD player I had forgotten this and thought it was the component cables causing the purple coloration.
(Similarly if using HDMI or god-forbid S-video or composite, make sure the DVD player is configured to use the given output.)

Where are you located? You might be able to find someone who can let you borrow the bulb for an hour. I would, if you were in my area (Philly)
Thanks for the offer, that would be helpful for sure. I live in Bloomington, IL in case anyone can help me out, or if anyone else has any other advice...getting close to thinking it might be time to put it in the dumpster...had it working for about a week, but back to it's same old routine.

Thanks for the offer, that would be helpful for sure. I live in Bloomington, IL in case anyone can help me out, or if anyone else has any other advice...getting close to thinking it might be time to put it in the dumpster...had it working for about a week, but back to it's same old routine.

give me your email. Mine is leonid150_at_yahoo

I have a KDF-E42A10 purchased at the end of '05 and it's currently under extended warranty. Before I call the service tech out here, I'm hoping this forum can offer some help on an problem that popped up today.

During most of the day, we tried to watch a variety of sources but the Sony KDF-E42A10 did not display anything but the "Power/Standby" light was blinking GREEN.

I read the manual and it only referenced if this light was blinking RED or if the "Bulb" light was blinking RED. The continuous blinking GREEN was not mentioned.

Since I didn't know what could be going on, I turned off the unit, after 5 mins unplugged the unit, opened the bulb access door and then further -- the secondary bulb access door. I did not see anything unusual (except for some dust) which I vaccumed out.

Put everything back and when I turned everything back on -- voila -- it works. Any ideas on what the trouble was? Should I still call the service tech out to my house?

Thanks!

You may need the update that was released earlier this year. The update is for a known problem with turning the tv off. You can check to see if your tv needs the update at http://www.updatemytv.com by putting in your serial number. Others have reported that the problem can be solved by unplugging the tv to let it reset itself , but it will happen again in 6-8 months if you don't have the update done.

Mel

You may need the update that was released earlier this year. The update is for a known problem with turning the tv off. You can check to see if your tv needs the update at http://www.updatemytv.com by putting in your serial number. Others have reported that the problem can be solved by unplugging the tv to let it reset itself , but it will happen again in 6-8 months if you don't have the update done.

Mel

It's happened to me twice so far...I unplugged a little while and it was good for another 8-9 months. All my service menu settings were still good, so this seemed easier than getting someone out to do the update.

Hello... I recently noticed what is supposed to be white text from the bottom to halfway up the screen, is actually pinkish-white text instead of white. The top half of the screen has perfect white text. It's most noticable with credits at the end of a movie.

I tried Clear White feature and setting to Cool and still no change.

Any thoughts on this? Thanks in Advance

I have the 42" model

give me your email. Mine is leonid150_at_yahoo
pm sent, thanks

Hey, I have a 50" A10. I want to buy a PS3 and start collecting blu-rays. Will they look good on our TV? I checked the specs and the 720p native resolution scared me, considering all the blu-rays are 1080p. Do u think i would see a difference between blu-ray on hdmi compared to dvd over components?
I have the 42 inch Sony and the PS3. The Blu-rays look great. I have mine HDMI. You will see a difference between DVD with component and Blu-Ray with HDMI.

I bought my E42A10 in April of 2006. I really like it, but just yesterday the OTA HD (antenna) input has digital distortion in the audio on all the stations. There is drop out and the voices that come through are high pitched like they've inhaled helium when you can hear them. The cable input (digital) and analog inputs have clean audio.

Anybody else have this problem? The picture reception is pristine. And the signal shows strong in the diagnostic display. Any ideas about what might have caused this?

I bought my E42A10 in April of 2006. I really like it, but just yesterday the OTA HD (antenna) input has digital distortion in the audio on all the stations. There is drop out and the voices that come through are high pitched like they've inhaled helium when you can hear them. The cable input (digital) and analog inputs have clean audio.

Anybody else have this problem? The picture reception is pristine. And the signal shows strong in the diagnostic display. Any ideas about what might have caused this?
I was reading about a similar problem recently, but not for this TV. I think it was a Samsung and I don't remember all of the details. The cause of the problem was thought to be a short in the speaker wires of the tv. May be the connection from your antenna input to the speaker has become loose. This is by no means a definitive answer, but I remember the problem because it seemed rather odd to me. Hope this helps in some way.

Mel

I was reading about a similar problem recently, but not for this TV. I think it was a Samsung and I don't remember all of the details. The cause of the problem was thought to be a short in the speaker wires of the tv. May be the connection from your antenna input to the speaker has become loose. This is by no means a definitive answer, but I remember the problem because it seemed rather odd to me. Hope this helps in some way.

Mel

Thanks,

All it needed was a "digital lobotomy!" I just unplugged it from the power and plugged it back in. It reset what was wrong with the audio reception stuff. I should have thought of that earlier. It was just so mysterious that only the off the air audio was affected.

I have a 50" A10 and directv......On my hd dvr i'm asked to select the highest resolution for this tv......is it 1080i or is it 720p? also when asked to choose "native " resoution on or off for programming, which do you select?

thanks in advance for any help.

I have a 50" A10 and directv......On my hd dvr i'm asked to select the highest resolution for this tv......is it 1080i or is it 720p? also when asked to choose "native " resolution on or off for programming, which do you select?

thanks in advance for any help.

Native resolution is 720P, however, your TV will accept a 1080i signal, then de-interlace it.

I use 720P input where possible for my 42", one less conversion.

Try it with both settings, 720p and 1080i, and decide which picture you prefer.

Anyone know how to get into the service menu of a KDF-E42A10? Thanks!

Anyone know how to get into the service menu of a KDF-E42A10? Thanks!

There's plenty of info in the Grand Wega V Tweaks thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=567709

Hi all,

I have not been on this thread for maybe a year, but it is time for my yearly update.

42" A10, purchased 18 August 2005, 3085 hours on the lamp, still no problems at all. I am happy.

Got a new cheapo 32" Sharp LCD HDTV given to me recently, and I tell you my old Sony looks a lot better!

Looking forward to many more years of use.

Lately when I power on the TV after it has been off overnight, the power light will blink for the usual amount of time and the tv will come on with sound but no video. After about 10 minutes, the video will come on and then it is business as usual. If I turn the tv off for a few hours and turn it back on, all is fine. I've left the tv set to different inputs when powering it off at night and it happens on all inputs. A few times, I've powered it off during this delay, unplugged it for a minute and plugged it back in. I power up the TV and the video comes on as expected but the remote is unresponsive for about the same 10 minute period. I can't change inputs, adjust volume or anything and then about 10 minutes later, the remote will start working. I did have the firmware update done shortly after it was announced and in fact at that time, the tech showed up a few days later and said he had to do it a second time as the firmware had been updated a second time. Other than this, the tv has worked fine and I am really pleased with it. I bought the extended warranty and am going to place a service call but wonder if anyone else has run across this. I did a search and on page 141 or so there is mention of perhaps a similar problem but no resolutions suggested.

An update to the previous post. I unplugged the tv for about 20 minutes this morning before powering it on and the video came on after the warm-up period but fluctuated between normal screen and about 2/3 normal screen about every 4 seconds. The only controls appearing to work on the Sony remote were sound and power. I could change channels on my Expressvu box and changing it between HD and SD channels made no difference. I left it fluctuating for about 15 minutes and then powered it off using the remote. The green light blinked for a bit and the set came back on still doing the fluctuating. I watched this for about 5 minutes and tried powering it off again with the remote. This time it did turn off so I waited for the fan to shut down and unplugged it again. Waited a few minutes, plugged it back in and the unit powered up normally with video and remote working as usual. Anything to try before calling in the experts?

Hey guys. I have a 42a10. It has a strange problem. It has blinking pixel squares of equal size and distance apart all across the screen. It happens over all the inputs. The indicator light isn't flashing or anything. What happened? anyone have any ideas on a possible fix?

Does anyone know if the A10 series correctly handles 1080i signals? I know many TV's receive a 1080i signal and downscale to 540p then scale to 720p.

What is the consensus on 1080i vs. 720p on this set? Send 720p to match the panel or send 1080i for maximum resolution?

I have a PS3 & A2 and would like to know the optimum output resolution for the A10.

Thanks in advance for any help...

With my A2, I ended up going with 1080i. I convinced myself that I saw a slightly better picture with 1080i over 720p, but it was probably just my imagination being swayed by others' posts that said 1080i was better.

I would be surprised if the A10 did anything too funky with a 1080i input. I think it's a straight conversion to 720p.


Mitch

Updating my picture problem. I know have vertical lines going up my tv. They go up about half way up the screen. They are about a quater inch think. Strangely enough they exist on all inputs except the pc input. Any one have any idea what the problem is and how to fix it?

for some strange reason the sound on my tv is not working on the right side can anyone help or have any suggestions i have the kdf-e50a10

My son complained of a similar problem with my 42A10 a few months ago. But it was happening on a dvr recorded program during a specific section of the recording. I checked the balance on another section and it seemed to be ok so I chalked it up to sound drop outs caused by shoddy equipment provided by my cable company. Maybe unplugging the tv and resetting it might fix the problem. Sorry, that's the best I can do, since I never viewed my tv as being the problem....I thought it was the cablebox.

Mel

My TV doesn't retain the Wide Mode setting for local 1808i and 720p channels (setting stays for all other channels - discovery, comedy.. ). I change it to Wide Zoom and set my 4:3 Default to Off, but when I change channels the Wide Mode reverts back to Full. Any idea how to retain the Wide Mode setting as Wide Zoom? I managed to do that a while ago, but forgot how.

Thanks

Posted a while back about my start-up problem. It's getting progressively worse and now takes about 30 minutes for the video to come on. Called in the experts and they dispatched a tech to confirm what I told them over the phone is actually happening and his initial diagnoses is the logic board needs replacing. Waiting to hear from the holders of the extended warranty if my set will be replaced or fixed.
So my question is, if the logic board is replaced, should the tech perform a proper calibration (should I insist on a proper calibration?) such as service menu adjustments or are these boards pretty much plug-in-play so to speak?

Just curious if anyone (especially the early purchasers) have had to replace the bulb yet. If so, did you check how many hours you had on the TV at the time?
After two years of what seems like lots and lots of TV time, I haven't had to replace the bulb yet (knocking on wood as I type this). I don't know how many hours I have on the TV - I'll have to check tonight.


Mitch

I also am 2 years in and have the original bulb.

My TV doesn't retain the Wide Mode setting for local 1808i and 720p channels (setting stays for all other channels - discovery, comedy.. ). I change it to Wide Zoom and set my 4:3 Default to Off, but when I change channels the Wide Mode reverts back to Full. Any idea how to retain the Wide Mode setting as Wide Zoom? I managed to do that a while ago, but forgot how.

Thanks
To set "Wide Zoom" as your default setting, go into WegaGate settings> go to screen settings, which is the 3rd icon down, (a box with arrows facing outwards on all sides) , select wide mode and you'll get a pop out menu, set it to Wide zoom.

Page 69 of the manual (if you still have it;)) for KDF-E42A10.

Just FYI, some stations broadcast in 1080i at a 4:3 ratio.

To set "Wide Zoom" as your default setting, go into WegaGate settings> go to screen settings, which is the 3rd icon down, (a box with arrows facing outwards on all sides) , select wide mode and you'll get a pop out menu, set it to Wide zoom.

Page 69 of the manual (if you still have it;)) for KDF-E42A10.

Just FYI, some stations broadcast in 1080i at a 4:3 ratio.

I have mine set exactly as you describe but it's still in Full mode every time I turn it on. That's ok it's still great set and I'll gladly switch manually to Wide Zoom on non-wide channels.

Hi all,I have the 50-A10 and it has been flawless so far,have had is 2 years,my extended warranty ran out through Circuit City and was wondering is I could buy another through Sony,I have gotten mail from CC but I dont want to have to go through them if I can help it.Thanks

Hi all,I have the 50-A10 and it has been flawless so far,have had is 2 years,my extended warranty ran out through Circuit City and was wondering is I could buy another through Sony,I have gotten mail from CC but I dont want to have to go through them if I can help it.Thanks

Nope, you can only purchase the Sony one within 11 months of the original purchase date.

I have the kdf-e50a10 and I have thin vertical lines repeating the color spectrum all the way across the entire 50" screen. You can just barely make out an image through the lines.

I'm thinking that replacing the light engine will resolve the issue.

Does anyone else have any thoughts?

I am having a similar problem. Did you find an answer?

when I power on the TV after it has been off overnight, the power light will blink for the usual amount of time and the tv will come on with sound but no video. After about 10 minutes, the video will come on and then it is business as usual.

Just an update... The problem got gradually worse until a Sony tech came to look at it. Whatever he did really made it worse as it would then take over an hour to come on. He said it was a logic problem and I'm happy to report that the set was replaced under the terms of the extended warranty and I'm now the happy owner of a KDL40V3000.
I really liked the A10 and was sorry to see it go. Glad I didn't buy a spare bulb though:)

I have the kdf-e50a10 and I have thin vertical lines repeating the color spectrum all the way across the entire 50" screen. You can just barely make out an image through the lines.

I'm thinking that replacing the light engine will resolve the issue.

Does anyone else have any thoughts?

(figured I would include this in my message again)

I am having a similar problem. Did you find an answer?

I haven't yet Jester. I'll update this thread when I get some more information.

Hi all - Sorry to bug everyone but I have a silly question. I've owned the KDF-E50A10 since December 2005 and I absolutely love it. The tv has given me no problems whatsoever and has been solid as a rock, performance-wise. My question concerns how to go about calibrating the RF/Coaxial in. I own a copy of DVE and have done an adequate job over the years on composite, s-video, component and HDMI but that RF/Coaxial has never been quite right. I used to use my composite settings and that was certainly better than the default. Later this past spring I actually hooked up a DVD player that had RF/Coaxial output and used DVE via that. Needless to say standard definition via the tv's RF/Coaxial in is now way off.

Is there some other method I should use to adjust the RF/Coaxial on the tv? I just want to make sure I am seeing the best over-the-air television I can be without resorting to spending tons of money. I am more than willing to take the time needed to tweak and adjust, though. Any suggestions would be welcomed.

Thanks for your time.

I have the kdf-e50a10 and I have thin vertical lines repeating the color spectrum all the way across the entire 50" screen. You can just barely make out an image through the lines.

I'm thinking that replacing the light engine will resolve the issue.

Does anyone else have any thoughts?

(figured I would include this in my message again)



I haven't yet Jester. I'll update this thread when I get some more information.
Just had a tech come out to look at my tv as now I have 4 lines of purple madness ( purple looking squares that are tweaking pixles every 2 inches all the way across the t.v. ). He said it is the "Qbox". Not sure it that is the same as a "light engine" but that was his diagnosis.

Has anybody here traded up from their A10 to the new XBR 4 flat panel LCD?
Other than 1080p can I expect any pic improvements?
What is the downside?

Just had a tech come out to look at my tv as now I have 4 lines of purple madness ( purple looking squares that are tweaking pixles every 2 inches all the way across the t.v. ). He said it is the "Qbox". Not sure it that is the same as a "light engine" but that was his diagnosis.

Thanks for the update Jester, when he returns to fix it see if you can get a part number or anything.

Over $1000 to fix. Any recommendations on what I should do? I have 2 options..repair or replace. I really do not like the TV, but am a bit strapped for cash. Should I repair it? Or do you think I can find something for around $2000 that will be o.k.? I am afraid of spending $1000 to have something else go a few months down the road.

Over $1000 to fix. Any recommendations on what I should do? I have 2 options..repair or replace. I really do not like the TV, but am a bit strapped for cash. Should I repair it? Or do you think I can find something for around $2000 that will be o.k.? I am afraid of spending $1000 to have something else go a few months down the road.

Jeeez i think you should get a second opinion, I think you are getting charged way too much.

At that price I wouldn't suggest you do it.

They said it was the Q-box. Which going online, all the "Q-boxes" I found were like $700-$800 for just the part, so I can't see why I was getting over charged.

Correction..I called them as Sony said there was no such thing as a Q-box on my tv. They said I needed a replacement LVDS cable and a B-Block

well i still think its too much, i found a bblock for 800 after rebate, and i cant find that cable... but a cable can't be over $50 (surely)... and 550 for labor is insane since it will take him about 30minutes to swap out the parts

Over $1000 to fix. Any recommendations on what I should do? I have 2 options..repair or replace. I really do not like the TV, but am a bit strapped for cash. Should I repair it? Or do you think I can find something for around $2000 that will be o.k.? I am afraid of spending $1000 to have something else go a few months down the road.

I'd probably sell you mine (10 months old), with stand and 3 year transferrable warranty for about $1000 :)

(seriously...)

Hello everyone, i just have a quick question and im sorry if this has been answered before but while i have the tv turned on there is a faint black ark towards the top middle part of the screen. Does anyone know what the problem might be and/or if there is a way to fix it?

Any help would be great, thanx.

OK folks....I think there must be a lot of these out in the real world for more than 2 years now.

Anyone have to replace the bulb?

If yes, how many hours did you have?

I'm having the same problem with the thin multicolor vertical lines across the screen. Tried unplugging it for a couple hours, but this didn't help.

I can barely see an image thru the lines, and the remote and buttons on the TV do not work.

Anybody get a firm diagnosis on this?

I got my 42A10 back in January 06. I notice in the last month or so that the lamp or something else is producing a flicker. It looks like the terrible refresh rate on the old CRT computer monitors. It's random and comes and goes whenever. It's not my source equipment as it does it on xbox360, PS3, or cable. I have BB warranty so getting it taken care of is no problem. What I would really like is that it can't be repaired due to cost and I get a replacement. Has anyone here had that problem with their sets and if so what is the part that is acting up?

I'm having the same problem with the thin multicolor vertical lines across the screen. I have sound.

I can barely see an image thru the lines, and the remote and buttons on the TV do not work. (only power works)

Anybody get a firm diagnosis on this? It seems there are enough people with this issue on the various forums....is Sony covering this on out of warranty units?

I'm having the same problem with the thin multicolor vertical lines across the screen. I have sound.

I can barely see an image thru the lines, and the remote and buttons on the TV do not work. (only power works)

Anybody get a firm diagnosis on this? It seems there are enough people with this issue on the various forums....is Sony covering this on out of warranty units?


I have gotten a firm response that it is the digital processor in the TV, this unit prices for ~$1100. I think I'm just going to junk mine. Sony is not going to do anything to repair the part unless you have a warranty. I've tried and they basically just said I should have extended the warranty.

Maybe if enough of us can coordinate an effort to push the issue with Sony they will replace the units. This is obviously is a widespread problem of a defective part but Sony doesn't seem to care.

Just upgraded to the HR20 from DirecTV and wanted to see what kind of settings people with these receivers are using with their A10's

thanks

Count me in for any coordinated response to Sony on this processor failure.

Given the $1100 parts cost, I'll have to junk my $1500 investment in a Sony TV.

I wonder if we will start to see a wave of failures, now that the early A10's have some hours on them. I bought mine soon after the A10's were released, which was maybe 2 years ago.

I've dusted off my old 27" CRT TV (made by Sony, inronically) until I can afford something else.

An $1100 repair for any TV after only 2 years is absurd.

I'm curious, those who are having this problem did you get the firmware update that was released a year ago or so? This was the one where you went to this site: http://www.updatemytv.com/ and had a guy come out with a USB memory stick to update the TV (for free).



Mitch

I got my 42A10 back in January 06. I notice in the last month or so that the lamp or something else is producing a flicker. It looks like the terrible refresh rate on the old CRT computer monitors. It's random and comes and goes whenever. It's not my source equipment as it does it on xbox360, PS3, or cable. I have BB warranty so getting it taken care of is no problem. What I would really like is that it can't be repaired due to cost and I get a replacement. Has anyone here had that problem with their sets and if so what is the part that is acting up?

Wow, I have the same exact issue (posted about it in the tweaks thread http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=11996014&postcount=2675).

My set also happens to be a January 06 model. My first thought was that it's simply the lamp going on it's last legs. That would be a nice relief for me as I could just replace the lamp. If anyone has any idea what might be causing this it would be greatly appreciated.

Quick update on the flickering problem, I had an online service chat with Sony and they didn't think it was the lamp. She said it was an "internal malfunction with the TV signal processing circuit". I'm out of warranty so this is a major bummer. Anyone privy to what kind of damage I'm in for if I get a repair from the local service center?

An $1100 repair for any TV after only 2 years is absurd.

I'm curious, those who are having this problem did you get the firmware update that was released a year ago or so? This was the one where you went to this site: http://www.updatemytv.com/ and had a guy come out with a USB memory stick to update the TV (for free).



Mitch

I didnt have it done on mine.

I didn't have the firmware update done either. Debating if I should request this anyways, just to have the tech give me another opinion on the vertical lines issue.

I didn't have the update done on mine yet either. I have over 8800 hours on the lamp. I was waiting for other problems to crop up before I called for an update so I could get the techs opinion. Otherwise I will probably have them out sometime early next year before the free update period ends.

I'm wondering if any of you who own the kdf-e50a10 have had this similar issue:

Until recently, all my non-HDTV channels would show up as regular 4:3 with the black bars on both sides. Now, all of a sudden, the picture has been magnified and fills up the entire screen. This I don't mind, but when I switch to an HDTV channel, the image is in HD, but appears over magnified. For example, if I'm on ESPN, I can't see the ticker. When watching football game, the score or stats shown at the bottom seem cut off. The viewing mode I normally use is FULL mode, and this issue is happening in that mode. The ZOOM and WIDE ZOOM. settings do what they normally do, but at the same over-magnified way.

I tried going from HDMI to component, but still have the same problem. Interestingly enough, using other inputs on the TV with an XBOX & DVD player, I don't have the same problem.

I've tried troubleshooting everything, even resetting the TV. (unplugging it for a while).

Does anybody have any ideas what this could be? I'm on Cablevision in Long Island New York, using the Scientific Atlanta HD-DVR cable box.

Thanks

I have often inadvertently and accidentally hit a button on a remote, and had trouble figuring out what I did. Perhaps someone hit the aspect button on a remote for the cable box...that has happened to me, and it was hard to troubleshoot, since that was what I least expected.

Just a thought. check each device that could control aspect.

I'm wondering if any of you who own the kdf-e50a10 have had this similar issue:

Until recently, all my non-HDTV channels would show up as regular 4:3 with the black bars on both sides. Now, all of a sudden, the picture has been magnified and fills up the entire screen. This I don't mind, but when I switch to an HDTV channel, the image is in HD, but appears over magnified. For example, if I'm on ESPN, I can't see the ticker. When watching football game, the score or stats shown at the bottom seem cut off. The viewing mode I normally use is FULL mode, and this issue is happening in that mode. The ZOOM and WIDE ZOOM. settings do what they normally do, but at the same over-magnified way.

I tried going from HDMI to component, but still have the same problem. Interestingly enough, using other inputs on the TV with an XBOX & DVD player, I don't have the same problem.

I've tried troubleshooting everything, even resetting the TV. (unplugging it for a while).

Does anybody have any ideas what this could be? I'm on Cablevision in Long Island New York, using the Scientific Atlanta HD-DVR cable box.

Thanks

Can't say for sure since I'm with Time Warner, but I have a SA8300HD-DVR with them and I'd guess your issue is with the cable box settings.

There's different software for the various cable companies (SARA, Passport, etc.), but there are groups right on this site if you need help....

I cant believe it, finally someone who does not think I am crazy. I too have been having this flicker problem consistently for about 3 months now. My tv was also manufactured in january 2006. I have searched the internet with all possible combinations for "flicker" and "sony" to find no answers. Finally, I have a friend.

I thought it was the bulb but I have been hesitant to spend $150 to find out. I called sony and they could not provide any information except to refer me to an authorized service center that wanted $235 to come out and look at the tv. It is beginning to drive me crazy...

I almost just want to buy a new tv and say screw it. Any information on how to get this fixed??

Chris

I have about 5100 hours on my set at the moment. I will eventually get it fixed or replaced through BB. I'm kinda waiting it out so the prices come down on the newer LCD's and Plasma's. If they decide to fix it, I'll post some info on the cost of repair. It seems to be getting worse over time.

I cant believe it, finally someone who does not think I am crazy. I too have been having this flicker problem consistently for about 3 months now. My tv was also manufactured in january 2006. I have searched the internet with all possible combinations for "flicker" and "sony" to find no answers. Finally, I have a friend.

I thought it was the bulb but I have been hesitant to spend $150 to find out. I called sony and they could not provide any information except to refer me to an authorized service center that wanted $235 to come out and look at the tv. It is beginning to drive me crazy...

I almost just want to buy a new tv and say screw it. Any information on how to get this fixed??

Chris
Someone over on the A2000 thread had a similar problem (Flickering), replaced the lamp and that fixed it.

Mel

That is what I am thinking too. I hope the lamp will fix it. I think on Thursday I will go see my friend at a local electronics store and put my lamp in their set and see if it does the same thing. If it does than i know I need a new lamp. If not, well then it is bad news.

Logic tells me it is the bulb since everyone I talk to says that the 3LCD engine is extremely uncomplicated and there is not a lot to go wrong with it internally. Brightness would seem to be a result of the bulb and any fluctuation in brightness aside from the iris would be on the bulb. Considering all of the suspect sets were manufactured in the same time frame maybe the bulbs just need to be replaced.

As far as the iris affecting the flicker, i have seen the iris change the brightness and it too is somewhat distracting. This is why I have mine set at min, at 2 it would change rather abruptly on me. But only once and its reaction time pales in comparison to the rapid flickering i can see now. The iris also seems to adjust on a very gradual scale, not neccessarily a bright/dim/bright pattern as I am seeing. I really really hope it is the bulb. You have given me a light at the end of the tunnel, lets hope it does not flicker when I get there. : )

Chris

For the others who have had this problem, I am happy to report that the new bulb seemed to fix the issue. I saw my friend today and we swapped bulbs, he actually let me keep the floor model bulb. I have had this one in my set for about 3 hours now and have had absolutely zero flicker. I will update if anything changes but it seems to be a case of a bad or dying bulb.

Chris

For the others who have had this problem, I am happy to report that the new bulb seemed to fix the issue. I saw my friend today and we swapped bulbs, he actually let me keep the floor model bulb. I have had this one in my set for about 3 hours now and have had absolutely zero flicker. I will update if anything changes but it seems to be a case of a bad or dying bulb.

Chris

Fantastic! I'm surprised that a store still has an A10 on the floor, though. You have a great friend if he let you keep the bulb. Thanks for letting us know that the flickering may be a sign of a bad bulb.

Mel

For the others who have had this problem, I am happy to report that the new bulb seemed to fix the issue. I saw my friend today and we swapped bulbs, he actually let me keep the floor model bulb. I have had this one in my set for about 3 hours now and have had absolutely zero flicker. I will update if anything changes but it seems to be a case of a bad or dying bulb.

Chris

That's great news Chris. I've noticed the flicker on my set is extremely inconsistent. The last few days I actually thought it might be getting better or going away altogether, but tonight it acted up as worse as it's ever been. :( If it really is the lamp in my case that would be a huge relief for me.

Do you guys think the Sony service person I spoke with was full of it saying the "signal processing circuit" was the culprit?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=12052963&postcount=9445

I thought that sounded weird. I mean, if the processor was faulty you'd think there would be some other problems, no? I'd hate to get bilked for a service call over nothing.

The tweaks below are with the standard factory service menu settings. I'm too much a chicken to open the menu but these settings give me incredible results in low and bright light settings on my Xbox 360, SD and HD chanels.

* I sit about 9-10 feet away from the TV

Iris - Max (I know I know most are 2 on this forum but try all the settings first with it maxed before you dismiss it)
Picture - 95
Brightness - 34
Color - 43
Hue - R2
Color Temp - Neutral
Sharpness - 27
Noise Reduction - Off
Black Corrector - Off
Advanced Iris - Med
Gamma - High or Med your choice
Clear White - Low
Live Color - Low

Update:
Going on 6 hours now and not a single flicker. I would agree that sometimes it would be horrible and then other times it would seem to have fixed itself. I think it was the inconsistency that drove me crazy.

They did not have a A10 still on the floor, they were blowing out their E2000 series which uses the same XL-2400 bulbs as the A10. The E3000 series however, the 1080P 3LCD that just came out, uses a completely different bulb.

I will post my results for the next 3 or so days to make sure that I am just not having a good day with the flickering problem. If we are still ok after a couple days I can safely say that I am cured. I am trying not to get too excited so that if the flicker comes back I am not super bummed. But I do have to say that it feels great to be in love with my A10 once again. One of the Best TV's out there for sure.

Thanks,
Chris

I will post my results for the next 3 or so days to make sure that I am just not having a good day with the flickering problem. If we are still ok after a couple days I can safely say that I am cured. I am trying not to get too excited so that if the flicker comes back I am not super bummed. But I do have to say that it feels great to be in love with my A10 once again. One of the Best TV's out there for sure.

Just want to say thanks for keeping those of us with the same issue updated on this. Your diagnosis will be a big help.

I am currently a little past the 2 yr mark with my A10(August 2005). I have experienced no issues at all and I have been very happy with this set(first HDTV). I did have the firmware updated a while back. Reading about this flicker issue does concern me a bit. I haven't checked lamp hours in SM recently but I probably will now. I have not experienced any flicker at all, but to know that its a lamp issue will save me a lot of grief. Thanks to Chris for troubleshooting this issue, much appreciated.

I just checked my lamp hours the other day - 6400. :o
TV is 2 years and 2 months old.


Mitch

Update:
On day two so far and still not a hint of any flickering. I have put about 6 hours total on the set today and about 8 total yesterday. It seems to have fixed my issue.
I did notice that the tv gets to full bright much quicker than it did before. After power on and the screen turns on it used to take a good 40-50 seconds to brighten up and it was very gradual. Today it was at full brightness within probably 20-30 seconds and it was a very rapid progression from barely visible to clear and bright.
I will monitor the sets performance for one more day and let you guys know how it goes. Fingers still crossed though.

On a side note, I would be interested to find out if all bulbs "die" in this way. The sony manual says that the bulb will begin to dim as a warning sign that it is going out. Has anyone actually had a bulb go out, and what happened when it did?

Thanks,
Chris

Ok guys, I can officially give the all clear. It has been 3 days total on the different bulb and the tv is completely fixed. Not a hint whatsoever of any flickering or dimming. I guess it could still be a coincidence, but I highly doubt it. I did not change anything else, only the bulb. I hope this has shed some light on the problem for those of you having the same experience. Sorry to say that it is still a $150 - $180 fix for a new bulb. But you will be free of the annoying and distracting flicker, restoring your A10 do its glorious state as before. Thanks to everyone who has posted the huge wealth of knowledge on this site. Without reading this thread I would have never even tried the bulb trick.

Thanks,
Chris

I'm new to the forum but I am also experiencing a problem with my Sony KDF-E50A10. There is a red 'bleed on the bottom' around 3-4 inches and its bugging the crap out of me. What could the problem be? I haven't changed the lamp yet.

I was debating on possibly selling my A10 to a family member and getting something bigger. Whats a fair price for one ya think? Also how do I check the bulb hours?

THanks.

Well its back...This afternoon the flickering returned after a wonderful 3 days of perfect operation.
I have to find the problem now more than ever. I plan on removing the bulb from the tv and hooking it up via alligator clips so i can observe it outside of the tv to see if its brightness is constant. That way I will know perhaps better what component is to blame.
I will keep you posted. So strange!!

Chris

Well its back...This afternoon the flickering returned after a wonderful 3 days of perfect operation.
I have to find the problem now more than ever. I plan on removing the bulb from the tv and hooking it up via alligator clips so i can observe it outside of the tv to see if its brightness is constant. That way I will know perhaps better what component is to blame.
I will keep you posted. So strange!!

Chris

:eek:

Be careful!! Although I am not familiar with the drive circuit, there is a good chance that the bulb voltage is significantly higher than 110V...

I was debating on possibly selling my A10 to a family member and getting something bigger. Whats a fair price for one ya think? Also how do I check the bulb hours?

THanks.

From what I've seen, the price of newer/better ones are reaching the low 1000's. So probably 50%-75% (max) of that. I think bulb hours are on the service menu, if you search this thread I'm sure you'll find it.

I cant seem to figure out a way to attach the clips to the contacts so I can test the bulb.
I am trying to think of the odds of two bulbs doing exactly the same thing. Although I will say that the flickering problem is not as often nor as obvious as it was with the previous bulb.
The set this bulb came from was manufactured in May 2006, my old one was manufactured in Jan 2006. I am beginning to wonder if the problem really is just an effect of the bulbs wearing out. Since the bulb I am currently using was from a floor model that could have been on the floor for a year or more...perhaps that is the case.
I am so tempted to spend the money on a brand new bulb just to see if it works. My fear is that it wont fix the issue and then I will be really upset putting $200 into the problem to have the same result.
Does anyone else have any ideas on what this could be?
I have tried all iris settings, and even so far as to disable the iris and the problem does not go away so I am pretty sure that it is not the iris, but i am open to any suggestions.
As far as the sony support lady telling another member that it is the display engine or processor? It seems that if that was malfunctioning the flicker problem wouldn't be so random more of a continuous problem.

Hopefully if we put our heads together we can get to the bottom of this.

Thanks,
Chris

As far as the sony support lady telling another member that it is the display engine or processor? It seems that if that was malfunctioning the flicker problem wouldn't be so random more of a continuous problem.

That was me. After getting through the particulars she asked me if resetting the TV solved the problem (I assume she meant turning it off and on again?). I said occasionally, but it always comes back eventually. There was a 2 minute long pause (perhaps she was relaying to a manager or some such). The answer she returned with was "it's an internal malfunction with the TV signal processing circuit". I asked if she was sure the lamp didn't have anything to do with it. She said she was sure, and that was that.

But I have to agree, this intermittent flickering seems more "mechanical" in nature than what you might expect from a faulty processor. The first thing I thought of was the lamp, because the way it dims is akin to a weakening florescent bulb. But the inconsistency really throws me for a loop. It'll be fine for hours, but freak out the next thing you know.

Granted I'm completely layman on all of this. If any electronic gurus here could impart some guess work on this it would certainly be helpful. :-)

Thanks again for your continued investigation Chris.

Ben

I am trying to think of the odds of two bulbs doing exactly the same thing. Although I will say that the flickering problem is not as often nor as obvious as it was with the previous bulb.
The set this bulb came from was manufactured in May 2006, my old one was manufactured in Jan 2006. I am beginning to wonder if the problem really is just an effect of the bulbs wearing out. i am open to any suggestions.

Hopefully if we put our heads together we can get to the bottom of this.

Thanks,
Chris

Chris - I agree that it is odd that both lamps would do the same thing, but, as you point out, there is a chance that both of them are on their last legs. Have you asked your friend at the electronics store if the E2000 that now has your origninal lamp is flickering? That would tell you whether it is your tv or the lamp(s) that are acting up. If the E2000 isn't flickering, then I would say it is something wrong with the tv. Also, have you recently gotten a new appliance (refrigerator, freezer, dryer, etc.) that could be drawing power off the circuit that your tv is on? Finally, have you called a repair center to see if they have ever heard of such a problem? Maybe they can tell you straight away that it is an internal processor or something that they have seen before.

Mel

has anyone had success picking up local channels by using an antenna with this TV. I live in dayton, oh about 15-20 miles from most of the tv towers, and can not get a solid picture using just the antenna going straight thru the kdf-e50a10 . I have tried several antennas indoor and outdoor to no avail. Since Direct TV just eliminated their OTA from their HDDVR Im screwed and was just wondering if anyone can help

Yeah I can pick up channels no problem. I use an amplified antenna, i think RCA made it. You also might need to check antennaweb to see if you are using the correct antenna (VHF or UHF).

is there a way to check your signal strength in regards to the OTA antenna, maybe I am missing a step, just plug antenna into the UHF/VHF coaxis then tune to channel? any help would be appreciated

is there a way to check your signal strength in regards to the OTA antenna, maybe I am missing a step, just plug antenna into the UHF/VHF coaxis then tune to channel? any help would be appreciated

You will need to do a scan for the channels, most likely. It is under the Settings, Channel and then Auto Program. If you are only interested in digital channels, use the Digital Channels, Add. Once you've done the scan, use channel up or down to go through the channels that were found. To check signal levels, go to Applications and then Diagnostics. Hope this helps.

Mel

I cant seem to figure out a way to attach the clips to the contacts so I can test the bulb.


Does anyone know if the Sony bulb produces dangerous UV radiation in addition to visible light?

If so, you better wear your sunglasses and sunscreen :-)

is there a way to check your signal strength in regards to the OTA antenna, maybe I am missing a step, just plug antenna into the UHF/VHF coaxis then tune to channel? any help would be appreciated

I think you have to plug it in to the antenna coax. Also you need to do a scan for digital channels.

ETA: Also if you have cable, you might be able to pick up QAM channels, that way you won't need the antenna. Try scanning your cable connection for digital too (if you have basic cable or more).

has anyone had success picking up local channels by using an antenna with this TV. I live in dayton, oh about 15-20 miles from most of the tv towers, and can not get a solid picture using just the antenna going straight thru the kdf-e50a10 . I have tried several antennas indoor and outdoor to no avail. Since Direct TV just eliminated their OTA from their HDDVR Im screwed and was just wondering if anyone can help

Don't know if there's a group for Dayton, but there's a thread from this site specifically devoted to HDTV in Buffalo.

It's listed under: "....Buffalo, NY - HDTV - in the Local HDTV Info and Reception forum of AVS Forum......"

Can someone please help!!!

I'm new to the forum but I am also experiencing a problem with my Sony KDF-E50A10. There is a red 'bleed on the bottom' around 3-4 inches and its bugging the crap out of me. What could the problem be? I haven't changed the lamp yet.

Can someone please help!!!

I'm new to the forum but I am also experiencing a problem with my Sony KDF-E50A10. There is a red 'bleed on the bottom' around 3-4 inches and its bugging the crap out of me. What could the problem be? I haven't changed the lamp yet.

Welcome to the forums. If you use the "Search This Thread" box and type in "red bottom" (no quotes), you'll see that a number of people have reported this problem and it is typically a bad light engine.

has anyone had success picking up local channels by using an antenna with this TV. I live in dayton, oh about 15-20 miles from most of the tv towers, and can not get a solid picture using just the antenna going straight thru the kdf-e50a10 . I have tried several antennas indoor and outdoor to no avail. Since Direct TV just eliminated their OTA from their HDDVR Im screwed and was just wondering if anyone can help

I have the 42a10 same model, no problems with ota setup. I live in Memphis and I am about the same 18-20 miles from the towers that broadcast hd. I have the largest radioshack outdoor vhf/uhf antenna that is mounted from a rafter in my attic. I used antennaweb.org to point my antenna correctly. If you have alot of trees or hills that could be causing the problems you are having picking up the signals in your area. Good luck.

Well I have some semi good news for those who are also experiencing a flickering problem with their A10's. I talked with sony support for about an hour the other day and long story short they extended my warranty for me so I could get the tv looked at and repaired.
I scheduled an appointment with my authorized service center and they will be here on the 27th of November so hopefully I will have an answer then. I will keep you posted on the outcome.

Thanks,
Chris

Well I have some semi good news for those who are also experiencing a flickering problem with their A10's. I talked with sony support for about an hour the other day and long story short they extended my warranty for me so I could get the tv looked at and repaired.
I scheduled an appointment with my authorized service center and they will be here on the 27th of November so hopefully I will have an answer then. I will keep you posted on the outcome.

Thanks,
Chris

Boy, I'd say that's a whole lot better than "semi good news," at least for you!!!!!!

Just curious- when did you buy this TV???

I'm curious too. I've started to notice flickering occasionaly.

I purchased this TV in february 2007, but I dont have a reciept so I was up a creek. I called sony and and after a lot of talking they sent me a letter notating my free parts and labor warranty through feb 2008, based on my word. I just hope that damn thing flickers in all its glory for the tech so I dont look like a nut job. F.Y.I. My tv has a manufacture date of January 2006.

Chris

Quote:
Originally Posted by akahmed2400 View Post
Can someone please help!!!

I'm new to the forum but I am also experiencing a problem with my Sony KDF-E50A10. There is a red 'bleed on the bottom' around 3-4 inches and its bugging the crap out of me. What could the problem be? I haven't changed the lamp yet.

Welcome to the forums. If you use the "Search This Thread" box and type in "red bottom" (no quotes), you'll see that a number of people have reported this problem and it is typically a bad light engine.

Ok, So I talked to Sony then a technician and thy said it could possibly be the light engine. Can anyone confirm this?!! I really don't want to pay $2000 to repair a $2500 TV. Is the light engine the problem so I can go buy it? also, what part number , does anyone know?

PLEASE HELP!!!

Keo49sd, this problem started on my KDFE42A10 about a week ago. I was starting to believe the lamp is dying but by reading your story I think there is more to it... The problem is exactly the same. The problem is intermitent. Could be a day without it then appear for a couple of minutes than disapear.... I started to search on the web and then I found your posting. Glad to see I'm not the only one...

Please keep updating us!!!

I checked the diag screen and found that my bulb have 4018 hours of usage.

I don't know what is the average life of these bulbs. I'm running normal brightness setting. Nothing in excess.


Well I have some semi good news for those who are also experiencing a flickering problem with their A10's. I talked with sony support for about an hour the other day and long story short they extended my warranty for me so I could get the tv looked at and repaired.
I scheduled an appointment with my authorized service center and they will be here on the 27th of November so hopefully I will have an answer then. I will keep you posted on the outcome.

Thanks,
Chris

update

Ok so I took the light engine out and tried to clean it and when I put it all back together (total of 8 hours of work), the red was gone!! Yes , all the red was gone, except a tiny faint band of blue and green where the top part of the red band had been. Does anyone know what to do from here? Please respond to this...

You took the whole "light engine" out? Wow, I had mine replaced on warranty a long time ago, and the tech told me he had to disassemble almost the entire TV to change it! It did take him 3 days. I suppose he was just trying to convince me how skilled he was! Where did you learn how to disassemble the whole TV without screwing something up, or didn't you actually have to disassemble the whole TV to get it out?

BTW, mine was replaced because it had a greenish bluish blob left center on screen. Sony apparently told the tech it was the light engine, and it's been fine since.

A10 VERTICAL LINES

For all A10 owners that have units that are developing multiple groups of multi-colored lines that appear vertically and diagonally accross the width of the screen please contact me. I have seen on this forum and others that there are many owners experiencing the same problems and Sony has done nothing to recitify the issue, and worse, is denying there is a problem or that anyone has contacted them about it. I personally got the run around and I am not about to spend $1000+ on a TV now worth $500 or so.

I would also like to hear what Sony has told you, and I will be happy to share all of my information with you. By getting all the owners that have experienced the same issue together we can put pressure on Sony to fix the problem or reimburse us fairly. Clearly this is a defect in the product (my TV was manufactured in March '06, barely 18 months old!).

Let me tell you about what happened with my set and my dealings with Sony thus far. I noticed the lines appearing on the television when I first turned it on about a month ago. The lines typically disapeared after less than 20 seconds. Friday (two days ago) the lines did not disapear and there currently are vertical and diagonal groups lines of various colors that obscure the picture completely. I saw posts by some other owners on another website that suggested this might be related to the optical block. I didn't find this forum (AVS) until today. I contacted Sony's online chat help late on Friday and had two conversations where one CS rep first said this was a "common issue" but that Sony wasn't repsonsible since the TV is out of warranty. Subsequently this guy's supervisor took over and denied that there were "any" issues with this model and also denied that Sony had EVER recieved any complaints about this issue. This is why I am particularly interested in other owner's contacts with Sony as this is clearly an outright lie. I documented this contact and also called the 800 line yesterday with the same results, basically "screw you".

As I said, I am curious what, if anything, Sony has done for you, and secondly I am curious if you wouldn't mind sharing your information and experiences with Sony with me so that I can see if Sony will react more appropriately to a united front. By the same token I will be happy to give you any of my data, including the archived help chat where they deny the problem and deny any complaints.

My e-mail is: "oden@wt.net"

I find that most light engine problems can be fixed if one cleans it instead of replacing it. See, I barely got done paying for my TV, E50A10, around 2100. Then I had this problem for a while and I called the techs and was told it would be around 1800 bucks (no warranty). I was not going to repay the price of the TV for that. So I looked online and bought a service manual for the TV, pdf, for 8 bucks and followed how to remove the light engine. The total job took me 8 hours , not to mention buying a whole screwdriver set. All I did was dust the big glass piece and wipe the spot where the lamp meets the light engine. I put it back together and the red was gone. All I can see now is a faint green/blue line about one inch, where the top of the red bar used to be. So I'm wondering what I should do now. Either way the TV looks a lot better than before and I saved a lot of money.

btw, I'm seventeen years old and a newbie to this stuff, so take that sony tech!

Those of you that are experiencing the visible line problems that Sony is denying is a defect, please contact me so that we can get everyone's data together to approach Sony as a group to pressure them to fix this defect.

This is the problem variously described as a "digital processor" problem or a Q box problem. It results in groups of vertical lines appearing permently across the entire screen.

http://bp2.blogger.com/_M1saSQ3eYY0/R0CRJ94JbgI/AAAAAAAAACM/1haAUqrB-gA/s1600-h/screen1.JPG

Those of you that are experiencing the visible line problems that Sony is denying is a defect, please contact me so that we can get everyone's data together to approach Sony as a group to pressure them to fix this defect.

This is the problem variously described as a "digital processor" problem or a Q box problem. It results in groups of vertical lines appearing permently across the entire screen.

http://bp2.blogger.com/_M1saSQ3eYY0/R0CRJ94JbgI/AAAAAAAAACM/1haAUqrB-gA/s1600-h/screen1.JPG

Is there any screen shots someone can post about this "qbox" problem? I've often wondered about these bands I notice on my A10. I can only notice it at certain times on mine, like when there's alot of whites. The vertical bands are about 1 inch thick and run all the way across the tv. It's faint, but it's there. I've always thought it was just a flaw in the screen, and maybe it somehow got warped. It's just noticeable enough for it to irritate me. I've had the tv for 2 years already, and I've noticed it all along, but it' something I've just lived with, but if it's something that's fixable, I'm all about it

Hey, I've been searching this thread but its so huge I've given up, can someone tell me how to access the service menu?

Also, my dad's set seems to have the red bottom I've read about and I'm wondering if anyone has gotten this fixed under any type of extended warranty. I believe when he bought the set he got the warranty that guarantees 1 bulb replacement but I'm not sure of any of the other details. He doesn't even notice the problem, but I do and it bugs the hell out of me.


-Bob

Hey, I've been searching this thread but its so huge I've given up, can someone tell me how to access the service menu?

Also, my dad's set seems to have the red bottom I've read about and I'm wondering if anyone has gotten this fixed under any type of extended warranty. I believe when he bought the set he got the warranty that guarantees 1 bulb replacement but I'm not sure of any of the other details. He doesn't even notice the problem, but I do and it bugs the hell out of me.


-Bob

Just look back a few pages or on any page and look for a post from member, Dark Rain, and click on his signature. It links to settings for the set but the steps on how to get into the service menu are very nearby that link, I think maybe in that same post.

I jumped in this thread back in august of 2006 when I bought the TV. I have not had any problems with my TV and it is working great. It has been working great for about 15 months. With all of the people talking about having problems I thought I should chime in and say mine is going strong. I have not accessed the service menu to do any tweeks and am happy with the picture as is. I have not checked how many hours I have on my lamp either, but I may check that soon.

I jumped in this thread back in august of 2006 when I bought the TV. I have not had any problems with my TV and it is working great. It has been working great for about 15 months. With all of the people talking about having problems I thought I should chime in and say mine is going strong. I have not accessed the service menu to do any tweeks and am happy with the picture as is. I have not checked how many hours I have on my lamp either, but I may check that soon.

Same here. "knock on wood" I have done no service menu tweaks either, purchased in Dec 05. I do have it hooked up to a monster ups500 incase of a power outage so it will shut down the tv and cool the bulb.

When I run my OTA through my T.V I get about 22 digital channels here in flat Florida. When I instead run things through my Directv HR10-250 Tivo DVR I instead get about 8 or so.

Depending on the receiver you're mileage will very IMHO.


could someone please walk me thru ota set up on this tv. I plug my antenna into uhf/vhf coax, and do a channel scan and can not pick up any thing!!! I only live 12 miles from the nearest towers. any help would be appreciated