I don't smoke so what your saying is the projector is dirty/dusty? How do you clean them, do I have to call service? Or can I do it myself?

Hey all. I have reading though the countless pages of this thread and didnt' really notice my exact problem.

I have a KDFE50A10 and I just had the "wont turn off" problem. Though I simply unplugged my TV and it now it seems to fix "that" problem.

However. Another small problem occured when that happened... suddenly my entire image got a little darker. In a nutshell, the TV now acts like I have "auto brightness" active on the TV, although I am not even sure if my TV even has that option. When the screen does not show alot of bright areas, it is alot darker, but when it gets brighter, the image odes get brighter, but not nearly as much anymore.

But anyways, I can tell that my image is slightly darker, and espically when I am playing games on my Playstation3, they definately seem darker than before.

I check my lamp hours and they are over 4200 hours. I have had the TV for about 2.5 years.

I am thinking about getting a replacement bulb since it is covered under warranty, but I seems strange that the "wont turn off" problem caused this as well.

Does anyone have any ideas on what may have happened?

BTW it didnt reset my brightness settings or anything and I just forgot to notice.

Well I solved my own problem I suppose.

Apparently whatever the "cant turn off" problem did it enabled auto brightness again somehow, as well as a couple other options. So I went back into the advanced options and fixed it again.

I wonder if someone would direct me to the operating guide or manual for this set. I have been unable to download it. Sony doesn't seem to have it on its site and some of the links in this thread don't lead to it any longer.
I can get one of these sets for a really good price but there seems to be a question as to just what this set has. I am primarily interested in the cable card slot and pip as well as hdmi inputs. The set on display has a cable card slot and one hdmi input and pip but it seems the one in the box doesn't show that information on the outside of the box. It does, however, refer to two hdmi inputs. Were there two versions of this set or, perhaps, a later or earlier model?

Thank you.

MissyQuick

The A10's have a cable card slot, but only one HDMI input and does not have pip. Never heard of two versions of the set. The E2000 came out later and it has 2 HDMI inputs, but I don't think it has pip or a cable card slot.

Mel

Still looking for advise on what to do with my A10 it has this image on the screen.

http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/6928/a10007fl2.jpg

Need some help on this one. I bought my 50A10 Dec.'05 and has 7400 lamp hours. Just noticed the yellowish burn on the screen a week ago.

I don't know what's causing it but I'm getting close to buying a new LCD because it's starting to get on my nerves.

Need some help on this one. I bought my 50A10 Dec.'05 and has 7400 lamp hours. Just noticed the yellowish burn on the screen a week ago.

I don't know what's causing it but I'm getting close to buying a new LCD because it's starting to get on my nerves.

Safe to assume you don't have an extended warranty?

FWIW, I've been reading this thread for 2+ years and don't remember anyone asking about a yellow burn, so you might have a hard time getting some help.

You might go back to some of the 2005 postings by the guys who were really knowledgeable on this set and PM them.

Just a thought.....

Good Luck!!!

The A10's have a cable card slot, but only one HDMI input and does not have pip. Never heard of two versions of the set. The E2000 came out later and it has 2 HDMI inputs, but I don't think it has pip or a cable card slot.

Mel
Thank You. You are absolutely correct. The store that has these sets has made a mistake. The set on display is the A10 but the sets in boxes are the E2000. They are showing the same specs for both sets which is incorrect. The boxed sets are packaged (stand included) and therefore have a different number entirely but they do contain the E2000.
MissyQuick

Thank You. You are absolutely correct. The store that has these sets has made a mistake. The set on display is the A10 but the sets in boxes are the E2000. They are showing the same specs for both sets which is incorrect. The boxed sets are packaged (stand included) and therefore have a different number entirely but they do contain the E2000.
MissyQuick
You're welcome....I read most of the E2000 thread after the set came out because I was trying to decide between it and the A10. None of the E2000 owners seem to have mastered the service menu settings, so they are stuck with the red push and other calibration errors. Even the user settings haven't been discussed much over in their thread, there is a lot of info about the A10, though. Anyway, thanks for responding and let us know what you end up buying.

Mel

Guys, the Asian model name for the A1050 is called KF-50E200A ... will using a lamp for the US model(A10) ok? Or should I get an Asian one?

Need some help on this one. I bought my 50A10 Dec.'05 and has 7400 lamp hours. Just noticed the yellowish burn on the screen a week ago.

I don't know what's causing it but I'm getting close to buying a new LCD because it's starting to get on my nerves.

See this post in the tweaks thread -> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13645179

He had his optical engine replaced due to yellow splotches, might be good to PM and see if the issue is the same as your screenshots.

^^^Thanks a bunch I'll PM him shortly.

Need some help on this one. I bought my 50A10 Dec.'05 and has 7400 lamp hours. Just noticed the yellowish burn on the screen a week ago.

I don't know what's causing it but I'm getting close to buying a new LCD because it's starting to get on my nerves.

BAD NEWS my friend your optical engine is the problem. I have warranty service with Sears and they change that when the technician see this yellow stain in the middle of the screen.

The only issue after the change of the optical engine is that I see two red stain, when the picture is on but without image (black screen), in the corner upper right side is more big and remarkable and the other stain in the corner down left side is little. While I see picture on it is not detectable. Someone see this before?

Rats, I don't have any extended warranty any idea what it costs to replace or just but a new display?

Rats again called my local Sony service/parts to verify the cost $689.xx holy smoke I didn't even bother to check how much to install.

I don't smoke so what your saying is the projector is dirty/dusty? How do you clean them, do I have to call service? Or can I do it myself?
Sorry, I was slow to get back to you, but you may need to remove a circuit board or two to get to them, and all you have to do is wipe them off. Not a job for somebody not familair with the set, though.

HI I have a kfe42a10 and the pic quality has started to wash out - its about 2 yers old. any white or light colors blend in - its like over exposure when you take pics.

any ideas if it is the lamp...? i would hate to buy a lamp to find out it is something else...

also i was trying the press display 5 +vol and power but i cant get to the setup menu any other ideas???

Sorry, I was slow to get back to you, but you may need to remove a circuit board or two to get to them, and all you have to do is wipe them off. Not a job for somebody not familair with the set, though.

Did you do it yourself? Anyone have steps to get in there?

Rats again called my local Sony service/parts to verify the cost $689.xx holy smoke I didn't even bother to check how much to install.

That's correct the cost is $689 and $249 for the labor performed. The technician put out all the circuits in the middle of the TV for example the QBox(the box with a fan) and the board of inputs for extract the optical engine.

HI I have a kfe42a10 and the pic quality has started to wash out - its about 2 yers old. any white or light colors blend in - its like over exposure when you take pics.

any ideas if it is the lamp...? i would hate to buy a lamp to find out it is something else...

also i was trying the press display 5 +vol and power but i cant get to the setup menu any other ideas???

You need to press those when the tv is OFF in order to get into the service menu.

HI I have a kfe42a10 and the pic quality has started to wash out - its about 2 yers old. any white or light colors blend in - its like over exposure when you take pics.

any ideas if it is the lamp...? i would hate to buy a lamp to find out it is something else...

also i was trying the press display 5 +vol and power but i cant get to the setup menu any other ideas???

I have the same TV KDF-E42A10. If you use the TV too much is probably that you need change the lamp. When a technician change my lamp I believed that he change my picture mode to vivid but no, is like have a new TV again. Is very simple change it you can do it yourself. You can see the lamp hours by follow this instructions:

In standby mode and let the fan to completely off, press the buttons on the Remote Commander sequentially, in rapid succession, like this:

A. Press [Display] , Channel [5] , Sound Volume [+] , Power [ON]

B. You want to be in what Sony calls the "BE-micro service menu," press JUMP two times to get into this cryptic menu.

You'll see something like this on your display (note the forum message editor doesn't seem to let me format the below, so this is a bit jumbled compared to what you actually see):

CONFIGRATION 00 SERVICE
CP18_COLOR_SYS 00 00A0 BE Micro

Press channel 4 once to go one item down into the lamp time display (4 = next adjustment item down; 1 is up) You'll see something like this on your display:

GW_SPECIAL 34 SERVICE
LAMP_TIME 02 00000032 BE Micro

That's your lamp time - a zero-filled 8-digit number, in this case: 00000032. This means "lamp time = 32 hours". Now you know how long your lamp/bulb has been on.

To see how long your panel display has been going, press 4 again. You see this on your display:

GW_SPECIAL 34 SERVICE
PANEL_TIME 01 00000032 BE Micro

. . . .your panel has been on a total of 32 hours . . . .

Press the JUMP button one time only.

Exit service mode by turning off your set.

There you go. Again, proceed with EXTREME caution in this completely unknown service menu . . . once you get into the service menu per above, if you start pressing the channel buttons haphazardly, all sorts of wierd stuff comes up. BE CAREFUL."

Ok I figuted out how to get the the SM - I thought pressing those numbers the screen would go black or something but the TV is channel is still there and SM is in green.

I saw my lmap hours were close to 4000 (forget the actual numbers) but if it was a lamp issue, wouldnt the lamp light go on....that's what I am concerned about. I dont want to spend $300 to find out it was something else.

About a month ago I put a new lamp in my E50A10 (original lamp had about 4500 hours and the picture was getting harder to see). The new lamp made a HUGE improvement - so much so that even my wife agreed my decision to buy the new lamp. However, I'm now noticing the dreaded Screen Door Effect more than I ever have. In fact, I never really saw it until I put the new lamp in. I can't ever remember seeing it during the first 4500 hours of use (about 2 years worth).

Is it possible that the new lamp is somehow making the SDE worse or more noticeable?

About a month ago I put a new lamp in my E50A10 (original lamp had about 4500 hours and the picture was getting harder to see). The new lamp made a HUGE improvement - so much so that even my wife agreed my decision to buy the new lamp. However, I'm now noticing the dreaded Screen Door Effect more than I ever have. In fact, I never really saw it until I put the new lamp in. I can't ever remember seeing it during the first 4500 hours of use (about 2 years worth).

Is it possible that the new lamp is somehow making the SDE worse or more noticeable?

From what I have read here, a new lamp can, indeed, increase SDE. Did you have to "increase" your settings(Iris, picture, brightness) with the old lamp? I am assuming you did since you said the picture was getting harder to see. If so, have you turned down your settings to combat the new(brighter) lamp?

So I think I'll buy the new lamp...

When I called the service guy he told me $300.00 for the lamp but he thinks I should call service to take a look at the TV ($60/hr).

Do you guys really think its the lamp...too bad I cant take it back to see if it is...anyone in toronto with a kfe42a10 i can bring my old lamp to, to see if its a lamp problem or not...lol

From what I have read here, a new lamp can, indeed, increase SDE. Did you have to "increase" your settings(Iris, picture, brightness) with the old lamp? I am assuming you did since you said the picture was getting harder to see. If so, have you turned down your settings to combat the new(brighter) lamp?
Yes, I reverted my settings back to what I set them to when I first got the TV 2 years ago (not the factory settings). Even with that, SDE is very evident. I've even played with them more to try to alleviate it but to no avail. Are the replacement lamps brighter than the factory lamps?

First, I will admit I have not read this whole massive thread, but I did do some searching here and on Google.

I bought a KDF-E42A10 in September 2005, and have loved it ever since. I have around 8500 hours on the bulb as of tonight.

My current setup is thus:

1. DirecTV HD DVR
2. Denon 1920 DVD Player (one of the early upconverts)
3. PlayStation3

All three of those are connected via HDMI cables to a Monoprice 5x1 HDMI switch, which worked like a charm. I watch all of these sources through Video 6 on the HDMI output from the Monoprice box.

Yesterday afternoon, I was able to play the PS3 as usual. When I finished playing, I changed the switcher back to the DirecTV box and watched more TV.

In the evening, I fired up the PS3 and switched the MP over to channel 5. The light moved over, but the TV showed a black screen. Not a nothing screen, with the bars on either side, but a black screen, with a few early flickers like it was handshaking the connection.

I cycled through the inputs several times, and then realized that the DVD player was doing the same thing as the PS3. The DirecTV input works just fine, directly or through the switch.

I first suspected the switch, because two devices shouldn't go bad at the same time, right? Well, I've tested all the cables, and they all seem to work fine with the DirectTV input, but none work at all with the DVD or PS3, even skipping the switcher and going directly into the TV.

At this point, I'm thinking it's most likely the TV, so here's my question:

Is it possible that this problem is caused by the bulb going bad?

I am more than willing to pay $200 for the new bulb, but it seems stupid to do so if that is not possibly the cause. Man, we were just getting into Final Fantasy VII, too! Thanks for any help.

From what I have read here, a new lamp can, indeed, increase SDE.
Is there anyway to reduce the SDE with my new lamp?

bought the new lamp didnt fix the problem now what?

My A10 is about 2.5 years old. Suddenly the "TV" button on the remote control won't light up if you press it and thus the Wega Gate/settings won't work. The button still does the basic function even though it does not light up when you press it to activate it.

Has anyone seen this and is their a solution other than replacing the remote. I have done the reset recommended by Sony where you take out the battery's and press all the buttons twice.

Any help is appreciated.

My A10 is about 2.5 years old. Suddenly the "TV" button on the remote control won't light up if you press it and thus the Wega Gate/settings won't work. The button still does the basic function even though it does not light up when you press it to activate it.

Has anyone seen this and is their a solution other than replacing the remote. I have done the reset recommended by Sony where you take out the battery's and press all the buttons twice.

Any help is appreciated.

Did you try new batteries?

Than can cure some strange behavior!!!

I have had the 50A10 for about 3 years now. I think my tv is becoming dimmer over time but its difficult to tell since its a gradual change. I have another 2 months on my warrenty before I lose it.

My question is should I get my bulb replaced before my warrenty runs out? Am I running a chance of getting a bad bulb that wont be replaceable under warrenty in the next couple months? Any input is apprecated.

Justin

Craft - I just replaced the bulb in my 50A10 about a month ago and it was like a new TV. Even my wife was like WOW! My picture had grown darker over time too but I wasn't sure how much, but the new bulb made it easy to see. I'd recommend it.

Awesome thanks for the info Indiana. I am just scared that I will get a crappy bulb and it wount be covered. Sounds like its worth the gamble so thanks again.

Is there anyway to reduce the SDE with my new lamp?

The only way to reduce Screen Door Effect is to sit further back away from the TV set. If you are too close to the TV, it will look like a screen door.

But I assume you meant to say "Silk Screen Effect" or SSE, which is affected by a bright new lamp.
some suggestions:

Close the Iris
Adjust picture settings to reduce brightness
Do not sit directly in front of TV. If you sit at a slight offset angle from the TV the SSE will be reduced.
Wait for the lamp to burn in and get dimmer. It usually takes about a month of viewing before the lamp brightness dims a little bit and levels off.

Some tips for GTA 4 on PS3 (or 360). I found it too dark when I first started. I turned up the IN GAME brightness and contrast but it was still dark. I then turned off "Advanced Iris" in my TV settings and it help tremendously. The only other tweak was making the phone text bigger. But if its too dark, check if you have Advanced Iris turned on. I had it on Low and turning it off across the board is giving me a much brighter picture.

The only way to reduce Screen Door Effect is to sit further back away from the TV set. If you are too close to the TV, it will look like a screen door.

But I assume you meant to say "Silk Screen Effect" or SSE, which is affected by a bright new lamp.
some suggestions:

Close the Iris
Adjust picture settings to reduce brightness
Do not sit directly in front of TV. If you sit at a slight offset angle from the TV the SSE will be reduced.
Wait for the lamp to burn in and get dimmer. It usually takes about a month of viewing before the lamp brightness dims a little bit and levels off.
I've heard of the SSE but don't really know what it is. What I'm referring to is that the screen looks like I'm looking through a screen door: a bunch of small vertical and horizontal lines. I do sit off to the side and not directly in front of the TV.

I've heard of the SSE but don't really know what it is. What I'm referring to is that the screen looks like I'm looking through a screen door: a bunch of small vertical and horizontal lines. I do sit off to the side and not directly in front of the TV.

SSE, or Silk Screen Effect, is a kind of shimmering or glittery look that appears when your projection TV is displaying a bright image. It almost looks like the surface of the projection screen looks a little fuzzy or dusty. The best example of SSE is to turn your brightness and iris all the way UP, sit directly in front of the TV and watch a televised hockey game because most of the screen is filled up with the white ice from the skating rink.

SDE, or Screen Door Effect, is being able to see the individual pixels of the projected TV image. Usually the only solution is to sit farther away from the TV. For a 42 inch A10, you should sit at least 7 feet away, preferably 9-10 feet away from the set. For a 50 inch A10 you should set at least 11-12 feet away and preferably 14-15 feet away from the set.

You can also see something similar to SDC, or blockishness, if your TV image is not scaled properly. If you are watching a "normal" TV channel (not high def), use the DRC pallet setting to adjust the digital processing of the image. If you are using a converter box (digital cable), make sure that you set the box settings to PASS-THROUGH the TV signal as-is without any scaling or de-interlacing.

I'm definitely seeing the SDE and not SSE. All the hockey I watch I've never seen what you described.

BULB replacement story

A while ago I had the flickering issue on my KDFE42A10. I did that for a couple of weeks and then disapear to never come back. Reading on this forum, it seems that changing the bulb did the trick for most people here. Because it disapeared, I didn't replace the lamp.

It's been a year that I had the flickering issue and Knowing that my bulb had more then 5000 hours, I decide to order a spare from one call. Also, I was feeling that in the day, my TV was almost not watchable and I had to push iris and brighness to the max. I have put the new bulb and decided to keep my old one as a spare.

One word: WOW!
My TV has now clearer picture than ever! I don't have any scientific test to prove it but I'm pretty sure that my picture was way darker before. I had to put the configuration settings back to normal.

I hope my experience will help others to change their bulb.

Thanks

Guys have you changed the bulb on your own? Is it easy? Or should I just call in a Sony technician?

^^^very simple just open the right side rear panel and unlock the lamp.

So easy, a caveman can do it.

Agreed. Changing the bulb is VERY easy.

Changing the lamp is easy. If you buy an OEM Sony, there is an instruction sheet. Anyway, it is only 3 steps... As long you don't drop the lamp on the floor....

FredT

THANKS GUYS! Any good sites I can order it from online? Im from the Philippines but I can have it shipped here thru a courrier in NY.

Cuz buying it here from a Sony service station is EXPENSIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! $500(including service)!!!

THANKS GUYS! Any good sites I can order it from online? Im from the Philippines but I can have it shipped here thru a courrier in NY.

Cuz buying it here from a Sony service station is EXPENSIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! $500(including service)!!!

I bought it from "one call" very fast and good price. Since I'm from canada I had to have it ship to US because they do not ship in canada. Since I'm traveling to the US often it was not a problem. I saved around 130$ by doing that because sonystyle in canada sell it for 299$ +tx and sonystyle (US) are listing them at 199$

I don't know how they compare with other online store but with "one call" if the LAMP is dead on arrival, you will have to deal with sony(90 warranty). They will not take it back.

FredT

OK THANKS! Too risky about the DOA though... Since Im halfway across the world. Will check somewhere else.

I have had my KDFE42A10 for almost 3 years now and am just now getting to where I want to do some tweaking on it. I keep reading about this red push fix and that one of the members has step by step instructions and recommended settings in his signature, but I cannot seem to find it. Can anyone help? I am about to move this TV to the bedroom and replace it downstairs with a new Z4100 46inch if it can match or beat the current XBR4.

I have had my KDFE42A10 for almost 3 years now and am just now getting to where I want to do some tweaking on it. I keep reading about this red push fix and that one of the members has step by step instructions and recommended settings in his signature, but I cannot seem to find it. Can anyone help? I am about to move this TV to the bedroom and replace it downstairs with a new Z4100 46inch if it can match or beat the current XBR4.

Check out the Grand Wega V Tweaks forum. Post #1 provides the steps to perform the red push fix and Dark Rain's post #23 provides detailed settings for various inputs as well as an update on the red push fix.

I followed the Tweaks available on here and didn't do the Red Push thingy and I'm still quite satisfied with my set.

Go here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6258295#post6258295

Well, I never thought I'd have to post in this thread again after my optical engine was replaced.

I was wrong.

We know Sony has had a track record of having issues with red tint, be it on a side of the TV, or red clouds, or blue clouds/dots on this particular set.

For anybody who can't/won't read back a bit, I'll catch you up. December I had red tint on the TV. January got it serviced and had the optical engine replaced. The one they installed had blue and red dots. Got that replaced. That new one seemed ok, and that's what I reported here.

Month or so later, the other side of my screen was experiencing red tint. Yeesh. So called and (thank god I had a service plan) got THAT replaced. Three times a new part was installed and... you guessed it, third one was bad too.

I had to fight tooth and nail with Best Buy in order to try and get a new set. 'Oh well technically if it's the same problem that keeps occurring it only counts as one service call'. Jerks. Anywho, I kept climbing the corporate ladder until I got somewhere, I'm getting $2000 on a gift card which is what I paid for this set.

From January to know, looking at the tech's paperwork... these optical engines have gone from like $1200 in cost to about $450. We also know Sony's don't even make these TV's anymore. I'm assuming based on my experience there's a high failure rate with this part (which is the heart of the TV) of the set. For THREE NEW ONES to be sent to me, and all of them be bad? It makes me seriously concerned for anyone else who has this TV. Good luck to all of you.

My intent is not to make anybody concerned or worried which I probably will, but I just wanted to give you all a heads up it may be wise to start setting aside money little by little as a little fund if/when you need to replace your set. And if you have a service plan with Best Buy... don't let them walk all over you. If you need more than three repairs, just keep going up the chain.

Now not only I have the yellow discoloration in the center of my A10. I noticed in the days after playing MGS4 while changing sources the screen is black but noticed 3 blue circular orbs barely visible during the day but at night with no lighting I see it. The 3 blue orbs are in the center grouping.

Time to replace light engine?

BAD NEWS my friend your optical engine is the problem. I have warranty service with Sears and they change that when the technician see this yellow stain in the middle of the screen.

This forum and this thread in particular, since I have the 42A10, are both such a valuable resource. I've been seeing this, yellow discoloration, for the last week and thought a lamp change might be in order, but since I knew about this thread, thought it would be worth a look. Just got off the phone with Sears, 3 yr. In-Home Protection Plan when I bought the set, would have done 5 yrs. if I could have afforded it at the time, and I should hear from the Repair Service tomorrow. The folks who shrug off Protection Plans are ones who've never had to use them, and given how complex sets are today, you never know when you'll have to use them.

I believe I am experiencing my first case of overscan when viewing BR/DVD discs via my PS3 over HDMI on my KDF-E42A10. I've not experienced overscan before and it doesn't sound like it's an easy thing to fix on this TV.

I've read through (searched) this thread and cannot locate information on this specific issue or how to resolve it. I have a DVE disc on order so I can get the overscan test pattern as a reference for just how bad it is, but it appears to be cutting off a large portion of the top and bottom of the image to the point where I don't even want to watch the movie half the time.

I know how to access the service menu but frankly just don't know what to do when I get in there and don't want to turn my TV into a brick. I also don't have $300 to pay someone to come calibrate this thing.

Thanks for any help or guidance you all can provide. I'm seriously bummed that my 2 year old Sony TV can't play content from a brand new Sony PS3 without hacking away at the service menu which requires voiding my warranty :(

I know how to access the service menu but frankly just don't know what to do when I get in there....which requires voiding my warranty :(

d-v-c wrote out the instructions to deal with overscan in the Grand Wega tweeks[sic] thread. I have never tried this myself, so I can't vouch for it, but it does look like what is in the service manual. Also, the instructions begin once you are already in the service menu:

Press [jump] two (2) times to get to the CONFIGURATION (Micro BE) screen. Then press [2] 27 times to reach the “PANL 1B” category. Press [5] to move back. The following settings apply to all Picture modes.

(step 34) Press [1] 7 times to get to ODHS.

(step 35) ODHS for is "horizontal center." Write down current setting { default = 0026 } and the press [6] to move the image RIGHT or [3] to move it LEFT.

I use 002F.

Also, check in WIDE MODE ZOOM. (In NORMAL mode, you cannot move a 4:3 image between the side-bars.

(step 36) Press [1] once to get to ODVS. Press [4] once to return to ODHS.

(step 37) ODVS for "vertical center." Write down current setting { default = 0015 } and the press [6] to move image DOWN or [3] to move image UP.

I use 0019 to avoid timecode noise at the top of an HD picture and to better see subtitles when a letterboxed movie is zoomed in WIDE MODE ZOOM. (In NORMAL mode you can only move vertical centering.)

To save the new value(s), push [muting] -- notice in the upper-right corner the word WRITE is displayed in Green.

Push [ENT] and WRITE will turn Red -- and wait for WRITE to disappear. Skip this step for no change.

The link to his post is here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8309076#post8309076

Finally, I don't think going into the service menu will void the warranty, since there is no way of anyone knowing that you did. Besides, you said that you had already been in the service menu, so it is a moot point.

This forum and this thread in particular, since I have the 42A10, are both such a valuable resource. I've been seeing this, yellow discoloration, for the last week and thought a lamp change might be in order, but since I knew about this thread, thought it would be worth a look. Just got off the phone with Sears, 3 yr. In-Home Protection Plan when I bought the set, would have done 5 yrs. if I could have afforded it at the time, and I should hear from the Repair Service tomorrow. The folks who shrug off Protection Plans are ones who've never had to use them, and given how complex sets are today, you never know when you'll have to use them.

Ok post back any updates what the issue is. It's my mistake for not getting the extended warranty and now my display is in need of repair.

Sorry to say, ratbones, but when I called United Radio today (they left a message on my machine while I was at work yesterday) and the earliest opening they had was Wed. July 2nd. :(

My 42A10 also has overscan with both my PS3 and my Motorola Comcast cable box. I have the HDMI signal going through a Pioneer 94 Elite receiver then out to the TV. I'm not at all sure, but I think the overscan might have begun when I bought the receiver a month back.

Thanks for the post- I wasn't going to try to fix it but now I might give it a go!

Sorry to say, ratbones, but when I called United Radio today (they left a message on my machine while I was at work yesterday) and the earliest opening they had was Wed. July 2nd. :(

please update with info when you can

Did you try new batteries?

Than can cure some strange behavior!!!

Most have been the batteries because he never replied back.

^^^I don't blame you. I've had my 50A10 since Dec. '05 and several issues has happened.

Awful yellow tint in the center of the screen~
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/4135/a10008mn2zz1.jpg

Now there are blue clouds~
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/8287/pc231ab3.jpg

I guess it's time to move on. No Sony for my next HD display.

Yeah my blue image gets worst when the set is on longer. From a fellow A10 owner his display has the same issue as mine and he got quoted $800 to replace the color block basically the light engine 3LCD.

I'm done with Sony. Looking at between a Panny an Sammy.

I have now moved on, having sold my KFE42A10. I found an interesting thing when it was moved out.

It was on a stand made of melamine-clad MDF. It had not been moved since it was bought. The set generated enough heat to embed an impression of parts of the underside right into the melamine. It *melted* it in spots. Yikes! That is a lot of heat.

Heat is the enemy, no doubt, but I wonder if it might be possible to elevate the set slightly to let air go underneath it and keep it a bit cooler. Maybe that would help with the problems people are having.

I have now moved on, having sold my KFE42A10. I found an interesting thing when it was moved out.

It was on a stand made of melamine-clad MDF. It had not been moved since it was bought. The set generated enough heat to embed an impression of parts of the underside right into the melamine. It *melted* it in spots. Yikes! That is a lot of heat.

Heat is the enemy, no doubt, but I wonder if it might be possible to elevate the set slightly to let air go underneath it and keep it a bit cooler. Maybe that would help with the problems people are having.

I may just have too check that out!

Sorry to hear about the various problems people are having with their A10's. I have had my 50A10 since Aug. 05 with NO problems at all. Only concern is the set is still running on the original Lamp. I think the overall brightness of the image has dimmed a bit, but from what I have read replacing the light engine can fix that.

My original bulb is doing okay on my July 05 42A10. I want my next TV to have the CableCard 2.0 "tru2way" card so that I can get rid of my cable box eventually. If TVs with "tru2way" come out before my bulb dies, I'll get a new TV. Otherwise I'll buy a new bulb.

My original bulb is doing okay on my July 05 42A10. I want my next TV to have the CableCard 2.0 "tru2way" card so that I can get rid of my cable box eventually. If TVs with "tru2way" come out before my bulb dies, I'll get a new TV. Otherwise I'll buy a new bulb.

Do you know when we can expect to see sets with Cablecard 2.0? Not sure how far off we are.

Ok I still have my 50A10 in the living room and bought a 42 LCD display. Funny thing is my A10 still looks sharper and clearer than the LCD lol. Used my x360 and hooked it up to a monoprice hdmi splitter so I could see both displays at the same time.

Yes, there is no doubt that when they are right, the A10s produce a wonderfully sharp picture. I replaced mine with a Panasonic PZ80 plasma and while that is a wonderful set, it seems a little "softer" than the Sony was. Too bad it didn't seem to be something I could live with long-term.

please update with info when you can

Well, it took awhile, but the engine was replaced today by a very knowledgeable tech who was aware of the issue the Sony RPTVs seem to have as far as the yellow blotch, which IIRC is caused by the lamp overheating the blue element and causing what some folks describe as blue blotches. He said it was caused by bad engineering design in that the two parts were in too close a proximity to one another.

I have to say the set looks new after the replacement, much crisper and clearer without the SDE I noticed prior. If it weren't under coverage I wouldn't have done the replacement since it would have cost ~ $1000 for both the part and labor. Since I didn't have to pay out of pocket, I believe I can be happy with this set for at least another two years.

I know some folks scoff at protection coverage, but any time I make a purchase of ~ $1000, I just factor it into the cost.

^^^Thanks I will write to Sony on my issues. Hopefully they will help with the cost of repair.

my a10's color reproduction is just fubar when viewing cable. I don't have the appropriate equipment to measure it, but I may call in my 5 year warranty and see what I can get out of them. A person's skin is different colors depending on where they are on the screen... Not noticing any blotches when showing a full white screen though...

wish me luck :)

My HDMI port recently died on me. It will no longer display HDCP material.

The problem started appearing when we attempted to watch a DVD on an upscaling DVD player. It kept displaying an error message that my HDMI was not HDCP compliant. I thought it was just a fluke, but then I went to watch Tivo HD and could not watch digital channels or HD programming. I got a message that my HDMI was not compatible with TiVo. Finally, the coupe de grace, my PS3 would not display anything via HDMI.

I bought the TV in NOV 2005. Thankfully, I bought the extended warranty as it supposedly covered bulb replacements, up to two. I'm still on the first bulb. I believe I have about 7000 hours on the original bulb.

The repair person came today and said the "P Card" needs to be replaced. Whatever that means.

I'm starting to experience flickering as well. I'm thinking perhaps the bulb is on the way out.

I just wanted to correct my last post.

My official lamp time as of last night is 7801 hours.

Yes, nearly 8000 hours, which to me is a shock. I never thought it would last that long.

I just wanted to correct my last post.

My official lamp time as of last night is 7801 hours.

Yes, nearly 8000 hours, which to me is a shock. I never thought it would last that long.

My A10 is 3 yrs old and I just checked my lamp time: 9809 hours:eek::eek:
This is my original lamp. Picture still looks great. I have had to turn up my brightness and picture settings over the last yr 8-10 months. After reading some of the other posts, if I see my lamp go out pretty soon I wont be too surprised. I may just replace it anyway. I think close to 10000 hours is very commendable for this lamp.

Ok, so I went to my local recycling and waste facility today to get rid of some trash and the like. Lo and behold there is a 42A10 sitting on the floor. From outside inspection, the screen looks to be in pretty good shape(just dirty). Someone dropped it off there and according to staff person(who did not seem confident in his answer) the set does not work because they check/ask when it is dropped off. Now aside from some scrapes on the top edges the set looks to be in good physical condition.

Now, who know whats wrong on the inside but if its only the lamp(previous owner could have been uninformed) this could be a steal. I asked if I could take it but the "boss" was not there. There is a good chance I can take it home for $0.
Is it worth taking the risk? Also is there a way of knowing if its the lamp or something major without buying a new lamp to see? I rather not be out roughly $200 and then have to ditch the set anyway.

My A10 is 3 yrs old and I just checked my lamp time: 9809 hours:eek::eek:
This is my original lamp. Picture still looks great. I have had to turn up my brightness and picture settings over the last yr 8-10 months. After reading some of the other posts, if I see my lamp go out pretty soon I wont be too surprised. I may just replace it anyway. I think close to 10000 hours is very commendable for this lamp.

The picture will surprise you when you put the new lamp in. I recommend you find your replacement now, so you have it on hand when the old one stops working (which will probably happen without notice!). You just don't notice how dark the picture has gotten till you put the new one in. By the way I got 9300 hrs. on mine when Mine started flickering.

The picture will surprise you when you put the new lamp in. I recommend you find your replacement now, so you have it on hand when the old one stops working (which will probably happen without notice!). You just don't notice how dark the picture has gotten till you put the new one in. By the way I got 9300 hrs. on mine when Mine started flickering.

I do plan on getting a new lamp in the very immediate future. I haven't noticed any flickering and with the time on my lamp I have been looking for it. Also, when the lamp fails, the lamp indicator light on the front panel will be on? right?
And will the screen just go black without any precursor?
Finally, any recommendations on where I can get a lamp from a reputable dealer for a good price? I've looked briefly and they seem to be priced about $150-200. Also, the cheaper ones look like they are only the lamp itself. Isn't it easier(installation) to purchase the whole lamp assembly(housing, etc)?

Woz...that's funny, I'm starting to see that flickering more and more.

The lamp is just over 7800 hours. I figured it was a dying lamp. But the lamp has not died yet.

Now does anyone have any experience with Circuit City's Advantage program?

I thought I read somewhere that if you have three service calls, their Lemon guarantee kicks in and they replace your device. Is this the case? Anybody?

Now does anyone have any experience with Circuit City's Advantage program?

I thought I read somewhere that if you have three service calls, their Lemon guarantee kicks in and they replace your device. Is this the case? Anybody?

Don't really have experience with it, but I believe it has to be the same issue each of those 3 times. Then again, your best bet is to call and ask or peruse the documentation they gave you with the coverage.

My lamp is now approaching 7000 Hrs. 6902 precisely. Does anyone have the Mack extended warranty with the lamp replacement ? If so, what procedure did you follow when you used the warranty to replace your lamp ? What is the dominent issue why the lamp would need replacing / flickering ? dimness ?

Also, when you replaced the lamp, was it hard to get into the service menu to reset the hours for the new lamp ? A search in the thread showed the link to get into service menu obselete.

Thanks, Larry

I'm up to 3 years on the 42A10 and my original lamp is still going. It sometimes takes what seems to be a long time before the lamp warms up. Otherwise the picture is still good though its starting to look noticably dim compared to what it used to be. I've since moved the set to the dining room (next most use next to the livingroom) so I'll probably just wait it out until the bulb pops. When I bought the set Circuit City said expect 2 years out of it, well we're into year 3 and it still works so I figure it did its part. Will be interesting to see how it looks when it has a new bulb again.

I think my HD abilities are jacked on my 50A10. I can no longer use my internal antenna, and when I use my VIDEO5 port to watch HD programming, I get this band of light (pixels in multi-color) about 2/3 down the screen. (I tried the side jacks and the VIDEO4 ports, but got the same issue) I thought maybe this was a component cable issue, but I have a pair of rabbit ears, and I can't pick anything up over the air in HD at all anymore. (internal and external).

The strange thing also is..even if I'm watching non-HD channels in VIDEO5 mode, I see the line. If switch over to normal (non-HD), all of the normal channels are fine. (HD channels are there, but in non 1080i) When I play my Xbox 360 on it (in HD), it looks fine oddly enough.)

I don't even know where to start when I call Sony, nor am I sure where to even check to see if there is a setting messed up. (Although I reset the entire TV, and it didn't work)

I do plan on getting a new lamp in the very immediate future. I haven't noticed any flickering and with the time on my lamp I have been looking for it. Also, when the lamp fails, the lamp indicator light on the front panel will be on? right?
And will the screen just go black without any precursor?
Finally, any recommendations on where I can get a lamp from a reputable dealer for a good price? I've looked briefly and they seem to be priced about $150-200. Also, the cheaper ones look like they are only the lamp itself. Isn't it easier(installation) to purchase the whole lamp assembly(housing, etc)?

They usually just blow, flickering isn't really all that common, but that's what happened to me. You don't need the whole assembly, just the lamp, which will save you $25-50. Replacement of just the lamp from the cage is very simple, so save the money. "So simple a caveman can do it!"
And yes, the light indicator should come on when your lamp blows, but the dark screen will be the first thing you notice.:(

Woz...that's funny, I'm starting to see that flickering more and more.

The lamp is just over 7800 hours. I figured it was a dying lamp. But the lamp has not died yet.

Now does anyone have any experience with Circuit City's Advantage program?

I thought I read somewhere that if you have three service calls, their Lemon guarantee kicks in and they replace your device. Is this the case? Anybody?

Don't know anything about the CC thing, but what's happening to your lamp is what happened to mine, and replacing it ended the problem.

My lamp is now approaching 7000 Hrs. 6902 precisely. Does anyone have the Mack extended warranty with the lamp replacement ? If so, what procedure did you follow when you used the warranty to replace your lamp ? What is the dominent issue why the lamp would need replacing / flickering ? dimness ?

Also, when you replaced the lamp, was it hard to get into the service menu to reset the hours for the new lamp ? A search in the thread showed the link to get into service menu obselete.

Thanks, Larry

DaBreeze - I haven't replaced my lamp using the Mack warranty, but I read a post sometime back where the guy said all he had to do was call Mack and they authorized his purchase. He ordered the new lamp, paid for it and then Mack reimbursed him the purchase price. I think he said it only took two weeks to receive the check. I think all he had to tell them was that his picture was getting dim. Let us know if this is what happens when you call Mack about a lamp replacement. I am about to do the same and am wondering how it is handled, as well,

Here are the instructions for resetting the lamp time, directly from the service manual:

In standby mode, press the buttons on the Remote Commander sequentially, in rapid succession, as shown below:
1. Press Display , Channel 5 , Sound Volume + , Power ON

2. To enter BE-micro service menu, press JUMP 2 times.

3. To display the lamp time, press Channel-4.

The screen displays:
“Total lamp time is 14 hours”

4. To display the panel time, press Channel-4.
The screen displays:
“Total panel time is 14 hours”

5. To display the lamp time clear, press Channel-5
7 times and Channel-1.

To reset the lamp time press Channel-3 > MUTING > ENT.

WRITE (Character color is red) is momentarily displayed and the lamp time is reset to “0”.

Mel

Mel,

Thanks for the info on how to reset the new lamp time. I'll probably get out the Mack Warranty info this weekend and EMail Brian from Tapeworks to get the ball rolling. Any thoughts on where to get the new lamp ? Should I replace the housing as well ? FleaBay seems to have some decent deals going on the XL-2400. I'll keep all posted on how I make out with Mack.

Larry

PS. Just checked the Extended Warranty thread and lo and behold Brian is on vacation. So looks like a little delay in getting the processing done for the new lamp. MY LUCK !!

I don't think you contact Brian, anyway. You need to call Mack Warranty and he's with Tapeworks Texas. The contact number should be on your warranty card. I would get the new lamp through SonyStyle.com, and I would get the housing and all. Since Mack is reimbursing the purchase price, you may as well get the whole kit-and-kaboodle through the original manufacturer. Let me know what happens!

Mel

I think my HD abilities are jacked on my 50A10. I can no longer use my internal antenna, and when I use my VIDEO5 port to watch HD programming, I get this band of light (pixels in multi-color) about 2/3 down the screen. (I tried the side jacks and the VIDEO4 ports, but got the same issue) I thought maybe this was a component cable issue, but I have a pair of rabbit ears, and I can't pick anything up over the air in HD at all anymore. (internal and external).

The strange thing also is..even if I'm watching non-HD channels in VIDEO5 mode, I see the line. If switch over to normal (non-HD), all of the normal channels are fine. (HD channels are there, but in non 1080i) When I play my Xbox 360 on it (in HD), it looks fine oddly enough.)

I don't even know where to start when I call Sony, nor am I sure where to even check to see if there is a setting messed up. (Although I reset the entire TV, and it didn't work)

Try this site:http://www.agoraquest.com/forum.php
There is a wealth of knowledge about Sony TV's there and you should be able to find something related to your situation. Sounds like you might have something mechanically wrong internally with your set. May need to be troubleshooted in a more aggressive manner, especially if your set is not covered by extended protection plan. Good luck.

I went into service mode to check my lamp hours and had some problems getting out of service mode. Now when I go to watch its a snowy screen on my video 6 input. The snowy screen blacks out and comes back on. Any idea???

I have my e50a10 for about four years now. I notice at the bottom of the screen there is blueish color blotches. Is this fixable? Will a new bulb fix it?

There is a flaw in this series and the blue blotches are an indication that the lenses are becoming damaged from heat. Optical block/ light engine replacement cost almost $1000 for the part only.

It happened to me no Sony for me anymore.

Well I just checked my bulb life and its at 10,177 hours. I'm going to change the bulb and see if that will fix it. I have had a center speaker directly under the TV and I have moved it just incase that is a non shielded speaker. There is no way I can aford a $1000.00 fix.

Moving the unshielded speaker should make no difference. The TV has LCD projection technology not CRT. If it were CRT technology then moving the speaker would help.

Sounds like your optical block is having some issues. I'm sorry to say that if you don't have an extended warranty or any coverage at all, you're screwed. It's fixable, but at that rate, you might as well get a better 1080P LCD flat panel.

Check this link for a thread with some decent info:
http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/2/137540.html

I'm shocked it costs nearly $1,000 to replace this part. I have this TV and have not noticed this problem yet. I have about 7900 hours on the first bulb. I bought the TV in NOV 05'. I'm just hoping when it happens, Circuit City will be smart enough to cut their losses and replace the unit all together.

After all the hoopla and sh*t with Sony they have came through for me. My local Sony service tech informs me that they will replace the optical block/ light engine on my A10 all I have to pay is for labor $220 whew! I'd rather pay that than $1000+.

As I stated to the tech who initially wrote up the repair report I had read a great amount of information on AVS about the A10 so I think that helped lol.

Glad to hear it worked out for you. Paying for the labor only is quite fair, the tech told me $269 for his visit. Like I said, it looked like a new set afterward, hope it goes that way for you.

I have a 42A10 and am experiencing 6 flashing red light code. After looking at the Service Manual it indicates this is a Low B error and the problem is located on the GT board. Now this board does not look that difficult to swap out. Has anyone replaced one of these or had an issue with 6 flashing red light code? The GT board can be had for a reasonable price and its a hell of a lot cheaper than having having a Sony service call and/or Sony "tech" perform the repair.

Hello all - I just wanted to take a moment to document the bulb life on my 50 inch Sony Wega V.

I have kept a bulb in reserve for almost a year after seeing my viewing time approach 8000 hours. For the last month, I thought the picture was dimming. I wanted to wait to as close to the football season as possible before replacing it. Today, as I was lying on my couch I decided the picture had become too dim in mid-afternoon sunlight. So, after just over 3 years and 9047 hours of operation, I made my first bulb replacement. The brightness difference in the picture was stunning.

Count me in as having to shell out nearly $1000 bucks for this pile of junk. I've been told by my local dealer that I have a light engine problem, as signified by two lines of multi-colored light going through teh screen.. Of course my two year warranty ran out the end of April as well.

A television like this should not have such problems after less than three years of use.

Never again will I buy a Sony.

Ever

A update to a earlier post about obtaining a replacement bulb using my Mack Extended Warranty.

I contacted Mack and told them that my picture was dimming and that I had a slight green discoloration on my screen. They EMailed me a local service form to fill out and fax back to them describing the TV and 2 send back copies of warranty cards and original purchasing receipt. Afterwards, I set up a appointment with a Sony Authorized tech nearby. Two days after I sent the Fax to Mack I called them to see if they got it. The CSR said they EMailed me a control number to get a ESTIMATE for a new bulb the day I faxed the info to them, I never got it.

They promptly sent another control number for a new bulb and asked if I already purchased one. Which I had, the complete bulb and housing on EBay, Brand new. I told them I was reluctant to replace the bulb myself, they said I should follow the instructions in my Sony Tv Manual and do it myself. I stated I have aTech coming out and that the bulb might not be the problem with the TV. The green discoloration.They EMailed me another Control number for that Estimate.

Macks policy seems to be to get the esimates from the Sony Tech send them the Estimates and THE OLD BULB for their review upon their approval then they will pay for the repairs.

One good thing, they prepaid for Sony Tech to come out to look at the Tv. That's where we stand now. Sony Tech comes later today.

Hopefully, Brain Pool from Tapeworks sees this posting. Since, I bought the Extended Warranty thru him. I was curious if this is Mack's normal procedure to obtain service. Seems a little excessive to me.

Keep y"all posted.

Never again will I buy a Sony.

Ever

Contact SONY and let them know how you feel. Tell them the ball is in their court.

Tech came out and replaced the bulb. Also, he said I need a optical block due to the various colors running at the top of the screen. White's no longer whites.

He's to submit a estimate to QualServ who in turn will pass along the estimate to Mack. Hopefully, the new optical lock will do the trick. Or maybe, with a little luck, Mack decides these Sony RPTV'S will never be right and upgrades me to new Flat Screen. Doubt it though.

The whole process should take a week or 2. We'll see.

A update to a earlier post about obtaining a replacement bulb using my Mack Extended Warranty.

I contacted Mack and told them that my picture was dimming and that I had a slight green discoloration on my screen. They EMailed me a local service form to fill out and fax back to them describing the TV and 2 send back copies of warranty cards and original purchasing receipt. Afterwards, I set up a appointment with a Sony Authorized tech nearby. Two days after I sent the Fax to Mack I called them to see if they got it. The CSR said they EMailed me a control number to get a ESTIMATE for a new bulb the day I faxed the info to them, I never got it.

They promptly sent another control number for a new bulb and asked if I already purchased one. Which I had, the complete bulb and housing on EBay, Brand new. I told them I was reluctant to replace the bulb myself, they said I should follow the instructions in my Sony Tv Manual and do it myself. I stated I have aTech coming out and that the bulb might not be the problem with the TV. The green discoloration.They EMailed me another Control number for that Estimate.

Macks policy seems to be to get the esimates from the Sony Tech send them the Estimates and THE OLD BULB for their review upon their approval then they will pay for the repairs.

One good thing, they prepaid for Sony Tech to come out to look at the Tv. That's where we stand now. Sony Tech comes later today.

Hopefully, Brain Pool from Tapeworks sees this posting. Since, I bought the Extended Warranty thru him. I was curious if this is Mack's normal procedure to obtain service. Seems a little excessive to me.

Keep y"all posted.

Thanks for the update, DaBreeze! Brian posted the following about his bulb replacement last June:


I have a Mack Warranty on my personal TV, and, as many of you know, I have been working from home for the past 10 weeks, spending time with my wife and our first newborn little girl. During that time, we've had the TV on quite a bit, and the bulb blew in my JVC HD-ILA. I contacted Mack, they approved the replacement, I ordered the bulb via 2nd Day Air, paid for it with my credit card, submitted the bill to Mack, and had my reimbursement check from Mack for the full amount in less than 20 days. Those of you thinking that I received special treatment since I'm a dealer for them should note that the contact I spoke with for the bulb replacement is a completely different contact than who I deal with for dealer orders and issues, etc. Others have reported similar experiences before, and I see no reason why this excellent service wouldn't continue.

That is why I thought all you need to do is call Mack and they don't require you to send in the old bulb. Maybe they have changed their policy?

Mel

update:
Sony fixed my 50A10 $275 w/tax OMG I'm happy again but I've been spoiled at looking prospects like the Samsung LN52A750.

What's a good asking price I can go for on selling my A10?

We're talking a set that debuted 3 years ago, and technology these days is measured in dog years where 1 year = 7 years, in a market where flat panels rule the roost, I think Mitsubishi and Samsung are the only 2 RPTV manufacturers left, and a set you've already had serviced, no warranty, a lamp that will have to be replaced...I'd hope for $400, but settle for $200 if it drags on for a couple of weeks. If anyone thinks I'm off-base, feel free to chime in.

Me personally, I'm still happy with the set. Extended my coverage for 3 years prior to the start of the month. If I were buying now, I'd be looking LCD with 120 Hz, so I'm more than happy to wait a few years to see what happens both with technology and price. The Samsung ToC units (A630, A650, A750, and A850) are pretty tempting though.

I just checked my lamp timer for the first time and I was astonished. 9338 hours is a lot of hours for a lamp that is supposed to last for 7000. Just curious how many of you have achieved similar results on the 1st lamp?
I never realised they could get that high, I assumed they just die. I am a Sony dealer and bought this when it came out and I have been pleased with the performance, although I sure would like to get a new xbr8. :)

After purchasing a KDFE50A10 for $50 from craigslist.com with the idea that the very dim picture was a result of a lamping being needed, I thought I'd share a few things I found through my journey.

Sorry I don't have any pictures to show, but I'll do my best to discribe the issues I found and the solutions I found to fix them. When I first picked up the TV you could barely make out a image if all the lights were out in the room, but it was diffently a image. So after getting it home I found the prior owner had been a smoker (heavy smoker I would guess) So I took the old lamp out and vacuumed out the areas I I could get too by removing the back plastic panel. It was very dirty. That didn't really help the brightness at all so I ordered a lamp and that may increased the brightness about 2x (prior lamp had 7985 hours per service mode). However it still had a very dim picture even with everything jacked to max. So after considering the problem I thought well the outside and vents where airflow came in and out were pretty dirty with tar from cig. smoke I'll start taking it apart and see what I can see. Well I took this thing apart all the way to the optics / light engine (this is the part where lights are filtered through a a few lens and shot through a couple very small lcd screens into a prism and then out to the larger lens that reflects it off a mirror on the back of the TV then reflects that to the front screen). What I found there lead me to believe my real problem here was all the Tar build up on EVERYTHING. One thing I have to point out here, that I felt was a HUGE disign flaw was that the light engine portion does have it's own filter, the type you would find in any standard projector. This filter was COMPLETELY clogged with Tar so any air that was making it though, was being blown right into the lcd panels/prism to keep them cool and since this air was not clean and contained tar and various other nasties from cig. smoke it was dirtying up the panels real nice. So I cleaned all the filters and removed the lcd panels from the prism (they were lightly glued and easy to remove). However there are a defusers (tinted glass) mounted on the prism with about 1/8in between then and the prism I was not able to clean very well due to something to get between so I could clean one side. So about 300 Q-tips laters using rubbing achol to clean. I put it all back toghter and found I had improved the brightness to almost new quality.

I actually took this unit apart 2 times because the first time I only cleaned a couple lens and filters and not the small LCD panels, this helped but I had numerious artifacts still, some color blotchs and also a yellowish wave tint and even the redish ting along the bottom of the screen that people talk about here. All of these issues where caused by TAR build up on the lcd panels, and the reason it was mostly bad on the lcd panels was because of the way the venting sytem is designed in the light engine it vents air on each of the lcd panels and up near the area where the light first enters the light engine. I also replaced the filter with a home made one, I could not possibly leave that in there it would have reproduced the problem quickly I image, even though I don't smoke the clean air would have pushed particles through the filter back up on the lcd panels.

Another note is you do not need to worry about messing up your converage (color focus/alighment) when working on these units has the brackets that everything fit into do not move, so you just remove a lens and clean it and put it back that simple. Make sure you get a phillips #2 screw driver with ATLEAST a 6 inch shaft. This is needed to loosen two screws that hold the light engine to the Chassis. I also did remove the front plastic screen and cleaned the mirror mounted on the back inside of the TV and the inside front plastic screen has both had a fine tint of tar on them as well.

So as a final note if you Smoke around this unit, expect to have to clean it regularly. The design does not allow for easy maintance, I say it proably took me about 3 hours each time I broke it down. I did end up buying a service manual in PDF format for like 10 bucks online, it did help me understand how to remove the front panel but I got the entire back part off and light engine without the need for a service manual. If anyone needs a copy just PM me, it's only like 8MB I will be happy to email you a copy. If anyone has any questions I'll try to keep a eye on this thread to help if you it.

Torien,
Nice info, much appreciated. I picked up a used KDF-E42A10 at my local recycling facility(see story a few posts back). In short, I need to replace the GT Board on my set and from looking at the Service manual it does not look that difficult. GT board is behind the input jack panel and it lies flat. I am assuming you did not have to remove this part considering you cleaned out the optics. Any experience with replacing said board and experiences therein? Thanks

Very nice write up. My a10 and a2020 have worked flawlessly. Not a smoker but i can understand the damage that could be done to these sets. For 50$, a bulb and 300 Qtips, you got a great projection television! Wonder how many of the problems posted about these sets could be this same problem? Not only smokers, but fireplaces and kitchen smoke.

I have been having what looks to be a green area around the center of my screen, only when certain colors are being shown... like skin tones or grayscales. So I'm unsure as to whether that's a processing/setting issue, or a physical problem with the tv.

Time to call in on that 5 year warranty I bought from Sony - they'd better follow through with the promise of me having the same viewing experience as the day I bought it.

Torien,
Nice info, much appreciated. I picked up a used KDF-E42A10 at my local recycling facility(see story a few posts back). In short, I need to replace the GT Board on my set and from looking at the Service manual it does not look that difficult. GT board is behind the input jack panel and it lies flat. I am assuming you did not have to remove this part considering you cleaned out the optics. Any experience with replacing said board and experiences therein? Thanks
Yes you do need to remove the GT board to get to the optics, you have to remove them all really. I don't think you would have problems replacing any board in this model, it's very straight forward once you disconnect a couple cables and start unscrewing things. For those who requested the Service Manual I'll be sending it out tonight when I get home.

Wonder how many of the problems posted about these sets could be this same problem? Not only smokers, but fireplaces and kitchen smoke.

Non-smoker here, no fireplace, and like any self-respecting bachelor, I don't do a lot of cooking. :D

Non-smoker here, no fireplace, and like any self-respecting bachelor, I don't do a lot of cooking. :D

also non-smoker, and it's only been a room away from a kitchen for 4 months of the 3 years I've had it.

Hi all,

I've had an A10 for a little over two years now and I've noticed the picture getting dimmer and dimmer and a small flickering effect on the screen after a few hours of use.

From reading this thread, all signs point to a new bulb, but I checked my lamp hours and as of right now I only have a count of 3361. That seems low considering what some of the others are reporting their lamp life to be so I'm wondering if I just got unlucky with my bulb.

And advice before I shell out the $200 to Sony?

Hi all,

I've had an A10 for a little over two years now and I've noticed the picture getting dimmer and dimmer and a small flickering effect on the screen after a few hours of use.

From reading this thread, all signs point to a new bulb, but I checked my lamp hours and as of right now I only have a count of 3361. That seems low considering what some of the others are reporting their lamp life to be so I'm wondering if I just got unlucky with my bulb.

And advice before I shell out the $200 to Sony?

Safe to assume you purchased this new?

Safe to assume you purchased this new?
I would say yes the bulb is likely failing, many people with this model seem to get close to 7-9k hours before it just needs to be replaced due to dim picture. Although 4k hours is not really a bad lamp life for these types of bulbs. Not everyone is going to experience the same life span due to variables that differ for each of us. For example if you find that you turn the unit back on after turning it off without giving it proper time to cool down 15+ minutes depending on room temp. This weakens the filment in the bulb, because the inital power through bulb is greater when it first powers it up, then under normal lighting, so it stresses the metal and shortens it's life span. Also the amount of dust build up is going to effect the life due to decreased airflow, which cuts into the cooling of the lamp and over-all unit.

One thing I want to point out to people is the filter that is in the optics blocks, weither or not you smoke it is going to get dirty naturally, and at some point that is going to start effecting the lcd panels with dirt that slips through due to this. This filter does not get any type of pre-filter and is pulling air from various vents around the unit. I can tell you under normal senerio on a ceiling mounted projector that filter would need cleaned or replaced every 6 months or great depending on enviroment. People should seriously consider cleaning the bottom and rear vents when they do a normal vacuuming of their house, or every once and while to keep the dust from building up and getting into that filter. Otherwise it's just a matter of time. Agian poor design (it should be made easier to get too for replacement/cleaning).

Yes, I did purchase it new, from Costco.

I already ordered the bulb, but I do see what you mean about turning the set on and off a lot which I probably do. If I'm using my PS3 but have to pause for a 1/2 hour or so, I would usually turn the set off figuring it would save the life of the bulb. But I guess it's probably just better for me to keep it on during that time.

Yes, I did purchase it new, from Costco.

I already ordered the bulb, but I do see what you mean about turning the set on and off a lot which I probably do. If I'm using my PS3 but have to pause for a 1/2 hour or so, I would usually turn the set off figuring it would save the life of the bulb. But I guess it's probably just better for me to keep it on during that time.

It probably is safer to just leave the set on. On my Xbox 360 I use the power save feature, where if I stop playing for a while it will switch to a drastically darker picture to save bulb life.

Ok, hopefully someone can help me here. I've noticed my A10 has what appears to be thin vertical lines present on screen. They are most noticeable when there is action goingon, but you can always see them even if they are faint. They go across the entire width of the screen. I've also noticed my whites look "crushed" at times, like the pic is a bit muddy. Would taking the backing off and doing some cleaning help anything? Do I need to call Sony for service? I'd hate to replace this set after having it for only 2 1/2 years. Any help is GREATLY appreciated. If anyone has further questions that could assist in a diagnosis I will be happy to answer them.

ahhhhh...im scared guys

The tv just goes blank all of a sudden, and then the video re-appears back after a couple of minutes.

What is going on. Is it the lamp?? I've had the tv for 3 years now.

The vertical lines you are seeing is called "vertical banding", typical on LCD RPT's. I have the same TV which is also about the same age as yours and have noticed this issue on my set as well, more dominant when entire screen is a solid background.

Call Sony service and explain your issue and see what they have to say and report back here.

Cheers

ahhhhh...im scared guys

The tv just goes blank all of a sudden, and then the video re-appears back after a couple of minutes.

What is going on. Is it the lamp?? I've had the tv for 3 years now.

How many hours on the lamp. Mine did this around 9200 hrs.. A new lamp fixed the problem.

I have a Sony Grand Wega KF-E50A10 HDTV. There's only one HDMI input and I originally had my DVD player hooked up to that.

When I got my PS3 back from the service center, I decided to hook my PS3 to HDMI instead. Long story short, it didn't work even after resetting the output signal; the tv display would flicker/scroll. Thinking it was an issue with the PS3, I hooked my Oppo dvd player back and the screen would flicker/scroll.

-I tried three different set of HDMI cables.
-Both TV and DVD player worked fine over HDMI before I tried to hook up the PS3.
-Removed HDMI cables, unplugged the power from the TV for 10 minutes, replugged everything, still same problem.
-DVD player works when using RCA cables.

Any ideas what I could try next besides calling Sony? It's out of warranty :(

Is that an HDMI handshake issue? Is there a service menu I can enter?

Hi, everybody.

A friend of mine has a KDF-E50A10 and I told him I would calibrate it for him. I understand that this model has easy service menu entry via the remote, but as I've experience with Samsung only, I'm not familiar with settings that Sony uses.

Has anyone performed a full service menu calibration, and if so, will you share with me your workflow? I'm not doing this for money, just looking to help out a friend.

I'd prefer to do as much work as possible in the service menu. My friend is of the type that would screw up user menu settings, thus they would need to be reset. If everything is done in the service menu, he can't mess it up.

Hi, everybody.

A friend of mine has a KDF-E50A10 and I told him I would calibrate it for him. I understand that this model has easy service menu entry via the remote, but as I've experience with Samsung only, I'm not familiar with settings that Sony uses.

Has anyone performed a full service menu calibration, and if so, will you share with me your workflow? I'm not doing this for money, just looking to help out a friend.

I'd prefer to do as much work as possible in the service menu. My friend is of the type that would screw up user menu settings, thus they would need to be reset. If everything is done in the service menu, he can't mess it up.
There has been a lot of discussion about the settings for this set on the Grand Wega V Tweaks thread found here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=567709

Nobody on the thread has worked out all of the service menu items, but there has been some work on the red push fix, grey scale tweeks and geometry settings. If you do find out how to calibrate this set via the service menu, be sure to share your findings.

Mel

I have a 42A10 that I purchased in January 2006, so it is almost 3 years old (still on the first bulb). I have a problem with the hdmi connection if anyone can help. I have a toddler and he gets behind the tv and pulls the hdmi cord out of the tv constantly (other end is attached to a PS3). Anyway, from the constant twisting of the hdmi cord, the connection on the tv is now damaged. The black plastic piece between the 2 rows of metal contacts broke off.

How can i fix the hdmi input? I switched the PS3 to component, but i prefer the look and sound of the digital connection.

p.s. How much is a new bulb? The tv is still watchable, but is dimmer than it used to be.

p.s. How much is a new bulb? The tv is still watchable, but is dimmer than it used to be.Around $125 on e-bay.

Just did lamp/hrs check in service menu...............14380 hrs on original lamp.

LOL

Just changed my lamp out at around 9000hrs. Was seeing occasional flickering and noticing it was darker. New lamp looks AMAZING. Had to back off on all the settings again. Still glad I got this TV....

ok i have a kdf-e42a10 it'll be 3 years old december. i've had no problems with it until yesterday when while watching it the power turned off and the standby/power light started blinking just like when you turn the tv on. after maybe 30 seconds of blinking the tv came back on. then every 5-10 minutes the same thing happens. the tv turns off and on everytime. do i need a new bulb?

ok i have a kdf-e42a10 it'll be 3 years old december. i've had no problems with it until yesterday when while watching it the power turned off and the standby/power light started blinking just like when you turn the tv on. after maybe 30 seconds of blinking the tv came back on. then every 5-10 minutes the same thing happens. the tv turns off and on everytime. do i need a new bulb?

Yes.

Yes.

thanks. i had a sony authorized tech come to house yesterday. he said it's mostly likely the bulb also. he also said he would have to order the bulb and would call me monday on how much the bulb will cost. he charged 65 bucks to come to the house yesterday. i think i'll just order one online and put it in myself.

thanks. i had a sony authorized tech come to house yesterday. he said it's mostly likely the bulb also. he also said he would have to order the bulb and would call me monday on how much the bulb will cost. he charged 65 bucks to come to the house yesterday. i think i'll just order one online and put it in myself.
It's definitely the bulb. I had the same symptoms and had the bulb replaced yesterday. It's like new again. I've had the TV for 3 years, 8500+ hours. No charge for the lamp or service as it was covered under my 5 year warranty.

Larry

Hey Guys:

I have a KDFE50A10 manufactured January 2006 bought it March 2006 like a dumbass I didn't get the extended service plan and now i have a issue.

TV will not turn on whatsoever no diagnostic blinking lights come on at all absolutely no response when pluged into multiple different outlets checked SONY's knowledge base did all the recommended troubleshooting steps checked serial number to see if software update was needed for TV will not turn on issue updatemytv.com TV does not need to be updated.

Any ideas as to what may be going on?

This happened after a severe lightening storms we had a few months back. I was plugged into a surge protector but the Wii that was plugged in the surge protector fuse triped as well.

Any ideas or even recomendations on a good TV Repairman in the Boston/Cambridge area would be great. Thanks

keep us posted if you figure out what the problem is. my set has the same symptoms, but entering the serial # on sony's site also tells me i dont need the update...weird....

I found this youtube video on the replaceing of the lamp,since I've got 6500 hrs. on mine,and the picture is dimming. This may be of help to some.
http://video.aol.com/video-detail/xl-2400-lamp-replacement-installation/2736886632
For those who have gotten replacements, on the Sony site,they show the whole housing with the bulb,while on other sites show the bulb only.
To bad the video doesn't show the removal of the bulb from the set itself.
Is this a difficult removal ?

keep us posted if you figure out what the problem is. my set has the same symptoms, but entering the serial # on sony's site also tells me i dont need the update...weird....

Apparently it's the Power Supply it's $127 bucks from SONY.

I found this youtube video on the replaceing of the lamp,since I've got 6500 hrs. on mine,and the picture is dimming. This may be of help to some.
http://video.aol.com/video-detail/xl-2400-lamp-replacement-installation/2736886632
For those who have gotten replacements, on the Sony site,they show the whole housing with the bulb,while on other sites show the bulb only.
To bad the video doesn't show the removal of the bulb from the set itself.
Is this a difficult removal ?

Not at all, probably the easiest step in changing the lamp, which itself is so easy "a caveman could do it."

My 50" A10 has a 1 inch pinkish tint across the top of the screen. It's very faint, but it's consistently there. Does anyone know what causes this? Is there some tweaking or maintenance that might help?

The set is 3 years old and we replaced the 1st bulb after 1.5 years at 2500 hr. (I don't know why it went out so soon).

Thanks for the help,

Clyde

My tv is hooked up to cox cable, so i know it isn't the signal. But i am afraid my TV might be going out. Every once in a while the picture will just randomly become pixelated? I searched to find out if other people have had this problem but i can't find anything.... help.... thanks

Actually, I think your random pixellization IS your cable signal!! I see it fairly often on my Time Warner cable connection, but NEVER on a DVD or XBox feed, so I really don't think the pixellization is the TV.

My KDFE42A10 purchased in Sept. 05 began showing a greenish blob near the center of the screen about a month ago. It has gotten progressively worse over the last couple of weeks. Thanks to all you guys on this forum, I knew immediately what I was dealing with. Fortunately I have an extended warranty, so I called Circuit City and asked for a service appointment, and when the service tech called and asked me to describe the problem, he told me since he knew it had to be the light engine, so instead of wasting a service call he would just order the part from Sony and call to make an appointment when it arrives. I guess I just might get a few more years out of what has been a surprisingly good set.

Hey Sony4life, I had the same problem, but then it started to come on with huge grey screen, and vertical lines. I am told that it will require a new "B-Box" to repair, over $1k! We just replaced the TV. Has anyone else heard of this?

So I just checked the lamp hours on my 3 year old 50A10, only 4337! Now how do I get out of service mode?

Edit: nevermind, I figured it out!

Yeah my 3 year old TV had about 5000 hours. I kept worrying the bulb was going to go out during a game or a show or something. Then I read about people getting around 8000 hours out of them so I figure another 2000 hours and I should then go and replace it. Although I wonder how long replacement bulbs will be available on the marketplace. I have seen on ebay some sellers, selling the OEM bulb for a bit cheaper and I always wonder if I should go ahead and pick one up just in case.

That's basically what I did. I bought a bulb on e-bay - although it was billed as being new, the box sure didn't look like it was new. Regardless, it was cheap enough that I figured if I got over a year of service from it I felt it was a good enough deal. So, I swapped in that bulb and put the original bulb on the shelf as my back up.


Mitch

Anyone have some good settings for this set? My roommates kid got hold of the remote and my settings are borked. I don't have the time right now to run Avia again, and I'm sure I wrote all my settings down, but I can't find them!

Repairman just left after replacing the light engine on my 42A10. It does indeed look like a new set. It reminds me of all the reasons I bought it in the first place!

My KDF-E50A10 bought Nov 2005 started acting up two weeks ago. Every 95 seconds, the power/standby light blinks about 45-47 times (about 38 secs) then back on. This repeats at the same frequency! The original lamp has 6010 hrs. Picture has been dimmer for the last year or so. Serviced last year with Sony firmware update.

I wasn't sure if the lamp was the problem (why isn't the lamp light blinking?) but ordered a Philips replacement lamp for $139. Upon reading several threads decided to try first with the old lamp to see if the thermal fuse was the problem, or anything else.

Opened the back panel after vacuuming 3yrs of dust in the rear vents. Removed the old lamp and had to vacuum the dust inside the lamp area also. Opened the lamp cooling fan cover and cleaned it. An inch to the right of the lamp fan cover, was able to see what looked like a thermal fuse -- not sure. Since I didn't have a replacement, couldn't explore it further.

Nothing helped. Replaced the lamp finally. For last few hours our TV seems running fine...

Question: when I cleaned and replaced the lamp cooling fan, I didn't know whether to place it back with the label outside are inside. If the label is outside, seems to work like an exhaust fan. I wish I took photo or made a note first. The other fan at the middle of the lower back panel seems to flow air inside.

I placed it back with label outside (air-flow towards outside). Will appreciate any help if I got it right.

Thanks.

I haven't checked my lamp hours but a faint flickering has become regular occurrence (though not always) and it's driving me nuts. I believe lamp replacement is covered under my Sony 5yr extended warranty, sounds like it's time to call.

I'll report back when the issue is resolved, maybe I'll save someone a headache.

my KDF-E50A10 all of a sudden just stopped working.

i went to turn it on this morning and the green standby light just flashes. after about 2 minutes it finally comes on, but there are like a million colorful vertical lines across the screen. i can get the cable programming to come thru, but its like you are watch it thru a screen of these vertical lines. the remote does nothing to the tv, no volume, no input changing, no channel changing, nothing. same thing if i try using the controls on the tv itself.
does it sound like the set should be taken out and shot?

New lamp installed today...... WOW!

SM showed over 12000 hrs on the old lamp.

New lamp installed today...... WOW!

SM showed over 12000 hrs on the old lamp.For those of you who have replaced your lamps, are you replacing the lamp and housing as a unit, or just the bulb? I've seen both available on e-Bay and was curious.

I've had my 42A10 since Nov '05 and just checked my lamp hours out of curiosity. Shows just over 6100 hrs. Had the light engine replaced along with one of the fans awhile back, but other than that it's been a great set. TIA for any help or suggestions.

what are the symptoms of the light engine going out and what was the cost?

The usual symptoms, as I understand them, are areas of uneven color, in my case yellowish in the center and bluish on the sides. My repairman said the cost without a warranty would have been $800+. Certainly not worth it without a warranty. Have you contacted Sony to see if they will do anything? The issue is definitely well known enough for them to assume some responsibility.

For those of you who have replaced your lamps, are you replacing the lamp and housing as a unit, or just the bulb? I've seen both available on e-Bay and was curious.
Lamp and housing. It was a piece of cake to do.

I'm not an Ebay fan but I found a Phillips for $129/free shipping elsewhere .....

my TV is 3 years old, i could see maybe if it was just outside the 1 year warranty, but not this far. it has put a bad taste in my mouth about Sony products though.

my tv wont do anything other then turn on after about 3 minutes and then i have all these colorful vertical lines that you could look thru to see the picture in the "background". i cant bump the volume up or down nor can i even change anything on wegagate.

my TV is 3 years old, i could see maybe if it was just outside the 1 year warranty, but not this far. it has put a bad taste in my mouth about Sony products though.

my tv wont do anything other then turn on after about 3 minutes and then i have all these colorful vertical lines that you could look thru to see the picture in the "background". i cant bump the volume up or down nor can i even change anything on wegagate.

There was a suggestion made a few months ago (?) to go to a different site for the really technical repair issues for these Sony sets.

Not sure if this is it, but worth a try: http://review.agoraquest.com/viewtopic.php?topic=26237&forum=34&start=70&select_page_number=8

If not, see if you can find those posts in this forum.....

Good luck!

my TV is 3 years old, i could see maybe if it was just outside the 1 year warranty, but not this far. it has put a bad taste in my mouth about Sony products though.

my tv wont do anything other then turn on after about 3 minutes and then i have all these colorful vertical lines that you could look thru to see the picture in the "background". i cant bump the volume up or down nor can i even change anything on wegagate.

Just for the heck of it, try unplugging your TV for 10 minutes and then plug it back in.

Can't hurt to give it a try.

I finally got up the nerve to check the hours on my lamp.... 9930!! The picture may be a wee bit dimmer than when new but not to the point where I need a new bulb.

Just for the heck of it, try unplugging your TV for 10 minutes and then plug it back in.

Can't hurt to give it a try.


that didnt work, that was the the first thing i tried.

i did fix it though, i bought a Samsung 52" LCD, the LN52A750, alot more features, a picture quality that cant even compare to the Sony, and it about $800 cheaper then when i bought the sony less then 3 years ago.

I finally got up the nerve to check the hours on my lamp.... 9930!! The picture may be a wee bit dimmer than when new but not to the point where I need a new bulb.

Your picture has dimmed more than you think, you'll see when you put a new lamp in. I would change it out now and keep the old one for a back-up. You will be back here telling us about how much brighter the new one is. Everybody else has.:D

Sorry if this is posted in the wrong place, but I'm new to these forums. I've had my A10 for a few years now and haven't really had any problems. Just now it suddenly turned off and then back on really quick and made a crazy buzzing sound (it happens sometimes when the power goes out). This time though the power didn't go out and things that are plugged into the same surge protector didn't even go out so i have no idea why it just did this.

That isn't really my problem though. The tv works fine, but now there is a very noticeable Ghosting effect that definitely wasn't as bad or as noticeable since yesterday or earlier today for that matter or EVER. So my question is, will this eventually go away or fix itself, or has my tv suddenly decided to mess up when my extended warranty or whatever it was (cost me ~$200 extra back when i bought it) just expired last month.

Any help would be appreciated.

Hi, I apologize in advance if this has already been covered in this thread. With the length of the thread, I'd be surprised if there was anything that hadn't been discussed already! Anyway, I noticed this in the corners about a month or so ago. I kept hoping it'd go away, but it hasn't. Well, thanks to this thread, I learned how to check my lamp hours and sure enough we were over 13k. I purchased a new lamp and just installed it today. The screen did get much brighter and more vivid... but... the blots are still there. :( Rather than try to describe the blots, I figured I'd just put up a link to a pic. The stuff in the middle is hardly visible under normal settings. I adjusted the Iris to a very low setting to make it stand out more. If anyone has a clue as to what might be wrong I'd greatly appreciate any info you'd be willing to share! I'm really hoping something's just dirty or that it's feasible to have it repaired.
Here's the image (This is my 1st post so you'll have to copy/paste the url):

megalowebs.com/blottyscreen.jpg

Thanks!
Brian

Hi, I apologize in advance if this has already been covered in this thread. With the length of the thread, I'd be surprised if there was anything that hadn't been discussed already! Anyway, I noticed this in the corners about a month or so ago. I kept hoping it'd go away, but it hasn't. Well, thanks to this thread, I learned how to check my lamp hours and sure enough we were over 13k. I purchased a new lamp and just installed it today. The screen did get much brighter and more vivid... but... the blots are still there. :( Rather than try to describe the blots, I figured I'd just put up a link to a pic. The stuff in the middle is hardly visible under normal settings. I adjusted the Iris to a very low setting to make it stand out more. If anyone has a clue as to what might be wrong I'd greatly appreciate any info you'd be willing to share! I'm really hoping something's just dirty or that it's feasible to have it repaired.
Here's the image (This is my 1st post so you'll have to copy/paste the url):

megalowebs.com/blottyscreen.jpg

Thanks!
Brian

Any chance you have a smoker in the house? I have had the same blotches, and they are from smoke film getting on the optics, and mirrors. Easy enough to clean, but hard to get to, because you have to partially disassemble your set. I let a pro do it for me a year ago, but I need them cleaned again. It's only noticeable when I'm watching hockey, so I'm letting it go for now.

Are there optimum computer screen settings to use when displaying a TV program, via the Internet from Hulu for example, on a 42A10?

I’m using Windows XP. When I boot up with the TV connected as a monitor, the PC recognizes it as a Plug N Play device and automatically sets the PC to 60Hz refresh rate. I do have the PC settings set to hide modes that the monitor cannot display. Should I force it to use a different rate?

I also tried a couple different resolutions (800x600 and 1024x768), but it did not seem to make any difference.

I had to use the TV’s zoom in order to fill the screen, but of course the image is degraded when doing this. I don’t expect an HD image, but has anyone come up with a starting point for refresh rate, resolution, etc?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Hey, thanks for the response!
Dang. Yeah my wife smokes. Actually tho, I was hoping it'd be something cleanable. Mind if I ask what the "pro" charged you to clean yours?
If I had a clue as to what to look for I'd probably take a stab at it myself.

Oh yeah, my model is a KDF- E50A10

*edit* after finding a site that shows how to clean this stuff - i'm pretty sure i'd really break something in a bad way if i attempted it myself! hahah

Ah well... I hope it doesn't cost too much to have that stuff cleaned - and that it will fix the problem.

Mind if I ask what the "pro" charged you to clean yours?

Oh yeah, my model is a KDF- E50A10

*edit* ... I hope it doesn't cost too much to have that stuff cleaned - and that it will fix the problem.

Just watch the repair cost vs. what these TVs are worth today!

SONY didn't get out of the rear projection TV business because it was a technology that was looking better & better as time went on!

(Hoping my set last until the 4 year extended warranty gives out....)

Are there optimum computer screen settings to use when displaying a TV program, via the Internet from Hulu for example, on a 42A10?

I’m using Windows XP. When I boot up with the TV connected as a monitor, the PC recognizes it as a Plug N Play device and automatically sets the PC to 60Hz refresh rate. I do have the PC settings set to hide modes that the monitor cannot display. Should I force it to use a different rate?

I also tried a couple different resolutions (800x600 and 1024x768), but it did not seem to make any difference.

I had to use the TV’s zoom in order to fill the screen, but of course the image is degraded when doing this. I don’t expect an HD image, but has anyone come up with a starting point for refresh rate, resolution, etc?

Any advice would be appreciated.

See the Powerstrip link in my signature below...

Hey, thanks for the response!
Dang. Yeah my wife smokes. Actually tho, I was hoping it'd be something cleanable. Mind if I ask what the "pro" charged you to clean yours?
If I had a clue as to what to look for I'd probably take a stab at it myself.

Oh yeah, my model is a KDF- E50A10

*edit* after finding a site that shows how to clean this stuff - i'm pretty sure i'd really break something in a bad way if i attempted it myself! hahah

Ah well... I hope it doesn't cost too much to have that stuff cleaned - and that it will fix the problem.

It really isn't that hard to do yourself. I recommend taking pictures of the layout as you go, and handle everything carefully. Taking written notes of what you're doing will help too. Unplug the set and wait an hour so that all the boards discharge any stored electricity. Wipe everything down with a lint free cloth. Then reassemble in reverse order. While your in there vacuum up all the dust you surely have accumulated. After you put everything back together, go to the Lowes or Home Depot and buy some furnace filter screen material (it looks like clothe, costs about $17), and cut it to match your vent holes around the back of your set and tape it on with some clear tape. This will help knock down the amount of smoke, dust and pet hair that get into your set, and it's hardly visible unless you actually look behind the set. That last tip was probably the best advice I ever got from a repair tech. Pet hair can get into your fan and actually clog to the point of stopping the fan, and then you get a thermal fuse blow out, and the $250 repair bill that comes with it.

I actually own a 55" A20, but I post here because the A10 is almost an identical TV set (except for the Iris feature). I had a thermal fuse failure (twice), that caused me to call for service, and the tech that came to service my set was the one that showed about the cleaning procedure. he threw the clean-up in for free, and told me about covering the vents.

Hope this helps.

See the Powerstrip link in my signature below...

Thank you for the reply. I previously heard of Powerstrip but thought it only pertained to using a TV as PC monitor for other than watching TV. But I read through the link you provided & it obviously works with TV programs also. I'll dig into this & download Powerstrip.

Thanks again.

Hi guys. bought a family member a KDFE50A10 almost three years ago to the day. Watched it last night with no problems. Turned on this morning and it's got a darker shadow like band 2-3 inches wide all the way across the top of the screen. It has the original bulb in it. I'm hoping this just needs a new bulb. Anything I can do to check if it's just the bulb? If it's the bulb, any suggestons on where to buy a replacement?

Thanks!

Hi guys. bought a family member a KDFE50A10 almost three years ago to the day. Watched it last night with no problems. Turned on this morning and it's got a darker shadow like band 2-3 inches wide all the way across the top of the screen. It has the original bulb in it. I'm hoping this just needs a new bulb. Anything I can do to check if it's just the bulb? If it's the bulb, any suggestons on where to buy a replacement?

Thanks!

I would guess that its not the bulb (unfortunately!), but something more serious...

uggg. i hope not. are you thinking the light engine? any thing you can point me toward?

I have a 3 year old E50A10 that had begun to dim. I was considering the purchase of a new lamp based on the huge picture improvement noted by other posters to this thread. But before dropping the $200 for a new lamp module, I figured I would take a look at what condition my current lamp module was in. When I took it apart, I found two areas that had collected quite a bit of dust. 1) The concave lens that the lamp shined through, had a fine layer of dust on it. 2) The conical reflector that is part of the lamp also had a fine layer of dust covering the shiny reflective surface.

I put on a pair of laytex gloves and disassembled the lamp module. Then I cleaned the concave lens on both sides and the conical reflector using a camera lens cleaning solution, Q-tip swabs and lens cleaning tissues. You must be careful not to damage the filament of the lamp. I also vacuumed out the chamber that the lamp module resides in and cleaned the glass in the chamber (I assume this is the entry point of the light source for the optical engine). All of this was accessable simply by removing the lamp module and removing three screws to gain access to the actual lamp/reflector. The whole project took about 30 minutes and THE IMPROVEMENT TO THE PICTURE WAS AMAZING!!!

So the moral of this story is, before you plunk down your $200 for a new lamp module (or $120-$139 for a new lamp), try doing the simple cleaning I noted above. You should see a huge improvement in the picture quality for a $0 investment.

Also remember, if you do buy a new lamp, make sure you clean the convcave lens and the entry point to the optical engine that I mentioned above.

I was considering replacing my E50A10 with an LCD TV, but after this simple cleaning proceedure, I no longer see a need for dumping another $2000 into a new TV.

John

Thanks for the info, but there is obviously something going wrong besides dust. I have a perfect 2-3 inches (consistant across the top of the TV) area that is "darker" and has a little rainbow coloring going on.

I have a 3 year old E50A10 that had begun to dim. I was considering the purchase of a new lamp based on the huge picture improvement noted by other posters to this thread. But before dropping the $200 for a new lamp module, I figured I would take a look at what condition my current lamp module was in. When I took it apart, I found two areas that had collected quite a bit of dust. 1) The concave lens that the lamp shined through, had a fine layer of dust on it. 2) The conical reflector that is part of the lamp also had a fine layer of dust covering the shiny relflective surface.

I put on a pair of laytex gloves and disassembled the lamp module. Then I cleaned the concave lens on both sides and the conical reflector using a camera lens cleaning solution, Q-tip swabs and lens cleaning tissues. You must be careful not to damage the filament of the lamp. I also vacuumed out the chamber that the lamp module resides in and cleaned the glass in the chamber (I assume this is the entry point of the light source for the optical engine). All of this was accessable simply by removing the lamp module and removing three screws to gain access to the actual lamp/reflector. The whole project took about 30 minutes and THE IMPROVEMENT TO THE PICTURE WAS AMAZING!!!

So the moral of this story is, before you plunk down your $200 for a new lamp module (or $120-$139 for a new lamp), try doing the simple cleaning I noted above. You should see a huge improvement in the picture quality for a $0 investment.

Also remember, if you do buy a new lamp, make sure you clean the convcave lens and the entry point to the optical engine that I mentioned above.

I was considering replacing my E50A10 with an LCD TV, but after this simple cleaning proceedure, I no longer see a need for dumping another $2000 into a new TV.

John

Nice advise, thanks for that.

2 year warranty and now the tv bought in 2005 has yellow stains in picture. blue tinted blobs also seen on screen. appears the optical block is dying. sony says unplug it and it should correct itself. apparently that is the polite way to say "you bought a defective tv that we will not do anything about unless there is another class action." can't see myself buying another sony lcd tv. really disappointed. you would think a tv that cost that kind of money would last longer than 3 years. don't see anywhere on the net that anybody got any help from sony other than a 20% discount on a new tv at more than retail price. if anybody has taken any legal action on this model i would like to know about it.

Thanks for the info, but there is obviously something going wrong besides dust. I have a perfect 2-3 inches (consistant across the top of the TV) area that is "darker" and has a little rainbow coloring going on.

CW,

My cleaning procedure is only offered as a possible solution to a "dimming picture" on the E50A10. It is not a cure-all for optical engine problems.

John

Hello,

I've got a weird problem and have not been able to find any info relating to it. I recently got a Playstation 3 and hooked it up to my Sony 50A10 through HDMI (this is the first time I've ever used the HDMI input). Everything works fine, except if I try to change the TV input back to input 6 (HDMI) from anything else WHILE THE PLAYSTATION IS ON, the TV freezes (screen goes black, remote doesn't work, buttons on TV don't work - not even the power button). To reset I have to unplug the TV.

If I change inputs with the Playstation off, then it works fine. The Playstation is HDMI 1.3, but I'm not sure if that would make any difference. I've also tried changing the PS3 output to 720P and 1080i - this doesn't make a difference either.

Very weird - any advice you could provide would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers.

JMolli, no offense intended! We have a repairman coming tomorrow or Tuesday to look at it. fingers crossed it's just a lamp issue!....

update....

looks like a mirror slipped out of alignment.... repair guy is trying to fix now.. if he can't... it's a $1000 part plus expenses... which pushes it over the 50% replacement cost as far as I'm concerned... which means it'll be a lawn ornament.

PS.. the tech said he could tell if the lamp was in good shape or not by looking at it.... he said it was fine.. not burned around the edges. Is that true????

I love my 50 inch A10..but the newer LCDs (Sammy 7/8 and Sony XBR6) are tempting me.. this TV really does display a great pic.

I have the extended warranty from BB.. which included a lamp replacement;Can I just call them to replace it if the bulb hasn't burned out?

I think I'm waitin for the new LED LCDs from Samsung for 09.

Good news for anyone with Optical Block problems on a 2006 xxE2000 Sony LCD rear projection set. I can't believe the 2005 ExxA10 series is not included in this warranty extension!!!!!

http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/news-item.pl?news_id=293&template_id=1

John

anybody ever try to replace the optical block?
Got the service manual and thinking about trying it. Curious about results for DIY? Costs way too much for repairman to do it without extended warranty.

anybody ever try to replace the optical block?
Got the service manual and thinking about trying it. Curious about results for DIY? Costs way too much for repairman to do it without extended warranty.

Unless I'm mistaken, some posted a very detailed description of how they did this, maybe 6 months ago!!??

(Not sure the easiest way to search for it.)

I remember he said it was definitely do-able if you're a little handy....suggested you take a lot of notes and pictures along the way.

Good Luck!!!!!

Suggestions were to get a good lamp for the a10 42 inch? There are so many sites and choices out there. I don't mind spending a few extra dollars to get a better quality lamp from a higher quality dealer. I checked sony style to try and get an OEM lamp and they are out of stock.

Suggestions were to get a good lamp for the a10 42 inch? There are so many sites and choices out there. I don't mind spending a few extra dollars to get a better quality lamp from a higher quality dealer. I checked sony style to try and get an OEM lamp and they are out of stock.

I saw a video on youtube that shows how to change out the lamp only, it looked real easy, that's the way I'll go when that time comes. I know you can get the lamp only for far less then the holder and lamp

Suggestions were to get a good lamp for the a10 42 inch? There are so many sites and choices out there. I don't mind spending a few extra dollars to get a better quality lamp from a higher quality dealer. I checked sony style to try and get an OEM lamp and they are out of stock.

E-Bay worked fine for me. Lots of sellers with long histories and various options including oem replacments, new lamps in "reconditionded" housings, and lamps only.

How do you find out how many hours are on your lamp? I have my set for about three years I think and I'm wondering if it has become dimmer. I haven't gotten any alerts or warnings yet.

How do you find out how many hours are on your lamp? I have my set for about three years I think and I'm wondering if it has become dimmer. I haven't gotten any alerts or warnings yet.

I have not tried this yet, but here are the instructions from the Service Manual:

In standby mode, press the buttons on the Remote Commander sequentially, in rapid succession, as shown below:

1. Press Display , Channel 5 , Sound Volume + , Power ON

2. To enter BE-micro service menu, press JUMP 2 times.

3. To display the lamp time, press Channel-4.
The screen displays: “Total lamp time is 14 hours”

4. To display the panel time, press Channel-4.
The screen displays: “Total panel time is 14 hours”

To get out of the Service Menu:

Press JUMP to return to the debug screen

From debug screen press POWER to turn the TV off and wait for the lamp to cool

If you power off without returning to the debug screen then when you turn the set back on, the service menu will still be visible.

I had this happen once shortly after getting my set, but I ended up unplugging the TV for a few minutes and the SM was gone when I turned it back on.

Wow, I only have ~4200 hrs on the lamp. I thought I would be much higher. If I remember correctly, didn't many of you say that you got upwards of 10k hours?

Does anybody know what the "expected" lifetime of an original bulb is?

I finally took the plunge and checked the total lamp time (original bulb) on my 3-year old set:


14965 hours!!! :eek:

I've had a replacement bulb ready-to-go for about six months now but my wife doesn't think it's necessary just yet. The picture really doesn't seem to have dimmed (or it's been so gradual, we just haven't noticed), but from what I've read on this message board, I expect to be awed by the brightness once I do make the swap.

Just thought I'd share...

~d.a.w~

I finally took the plunge and checked the total lamp time (original bulb) on my 3-year old set:


14965 hours!!! :eek:

I've had a replacement bulb ready-to-go for about six months now but my wife doesn't think it's necessary just yet. The picture really doesn't seem to have dimmed (or it's been so gradual, we just haven't noticed), but from what I've read on this message board, I expect to be awed by the brightness once I do make the swap.

Just thought I'd share...

~d.a.w~

you only live once. Pop that baby in there.:)

If you are like me, you have been regretting not buying a 1080p, but are very happy with you A10. Put the bulb in and like everybody says, it will be like a new TV.

I might check my service menu tonight for the first time. Is it possible I can screw something up in there?

Yeah, I think I'm going to do just that! After all, like you said, I will only live once... so why not enjoy my A10 in all its glory... ;)

As far as checking the lamp time, just read Melanotheron's last post (yesterday)... it worked like a charm for me.

Thanks Melanotheron!

Ok, I did it. that was easy.

I have 8500 hours on my lamp and panel. I feel like I have this TV on all the time too. it's been about three years I think

OMG, I just did the math. that's like 8 hours a day over 3 years. I'm an addict, OMG

Yeah, I think I'm going to do just that!

Thanks Melanotheron!

You are welcome, Chief! There are a few steps more to the procedure if you want to reset the lamp timer to "0". At first, I thought you guys just wanted to check your lamp time, but now you are talking about replacing the lamp. So, here is how you reset the lamp timer to zero once you've replaced the lamp:

1. Press Display , Channel 5 , Sound Volume + , Power ON

2. To enter BE-micro service menu, press JUMP 2 times.

3. To display the lamp time, press Channel-4.

The screen displays:
“ Total lamp time is 14 hours”

4. To display the panel time, press Channel-4.

The screen displays:
“ Total panel time is 14 hours”

5. To display the lamp time clear, press Channel-5 seven times and Channel-1.

To reset the lamp time press Channel-3 > MUTING > ENT.

WRITE (Character color is red) is momentarily displayed and the lamp time is reset to “0”.

Just put in my new bulb, WOW is all i say, i forgot how great the picture is on this set. With all the tweaks including greyscale and redpush, i was quite please with the picture but it was just so dim. I had my contrast at 95 to compensate for it. Well that was quickly solved with the new bulb. Amazing difference, i now have my contrast at 70 and it's MUCH brighter than it was before. My A10 is truly shining again. I had 8973 hours on my original bulb. also, Thanks Melanotheron for posting how to reset the lamp.

Just put in my new bulb, WOW is all i say, i forgot how great the picture is on this set. With all the tweaks including greyscale and redpush, i was quite please with the picture but it was just so dim. I had my contrast at 95 to compensate for it. Well that was quickly solved with the new bulb. Amazing difference, i now have my contrast at 70 and it's MUCH brighter than it was before. My A10 is truly shining again. I had 8973 hours on my original bulb. also, Thanks Melanotheron for posting how to reset the lamp.

cool, you had about the same amount of hours as I did. Glad you noticed a huge difference. I might have to change mine out.
Did you just change the bulb or the whole lamp set up?

I'm thinking that buying a lamp to replace my 3 1/2 year old lamp which is pretty obviously losing brightness.

I see some eBay sellers with great records, but I'm sure most people are happy to get a replacement lamp with housing on eBay for $120-130 vs. paying $200 with SONY.

Anyone know if these "equivalent" lamps are "as-good" (whatever that means) as the SONY lamps????

thnx

Bought a service manual for the 50a10 and thinking about changing the optical block with a remanufactured block. Sony says this is not a known issue with the 50a10. I am surprised I am the only one in America to have reported this blue blob problem in the 50a10 :confused::confused:

They gave me the too bad so sad excuse. But they will graciously give me a small discount on their overpriced TVs with spotty reliability from their website.:mad:

cool, you had about the same amount of hours as I did. Glad you noticed a huge difference. I might have to change mine out.
Did you just change the bulb or the whole lamp set up?

I changed out the whole balast. $140 shipped for Sony xl2400 lamp on eBay, great seller.
If anyone needs the sellers link, pm me and will gladly give it to you.

Has anyone had difficulty with a Monoprice 4x1 hdmi switch and the 50a10 (july '06), all i'm getting is screen flickers on the inputs from my cable box (cisco rng200) and ps3. If someone could help or point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated. thanks..

Has anyone had difficulty with a Monoprice 4x1 hdmi switch and the 50a10 (july '06), all i'm getting is screen flickers on the inputs from my cable box (cisco rng200) and ps3. If someone could help or point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated. thanks..

I have a Monoprice 3x1 into an E42A10 and it works fine with a DVD player, Xbox 360, and camcorder. It switches with my Harmony remote and just seems to work. I have all cheapo Monoprice HDMI cables, too, no Monster (!!)

Do all your devices work when directly hooked to the TV and do all the cables work hooked directly to the TV? I guess that test would narrow it down to the switcher. If stuff doesn't work hooked direct, then more sleuthing is in order.

I have the E55A20 model, but I saw that a few people had an issue with this on this model. Has anyone found anything out about the multicolored vertical lines?

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q258/a_moondragon/tv/PICT0619.jpg

Has anyone had difficulty with a Monoprice 4x1 hdmi switch and the 50a10 (july '06), all i'm getting is screen flickers on the inputs from my cable box (cisco rng200) and ps3. If someone could help or point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated. thanks..


I used to have my 42a10 hooked up to to a monoprice 4x1 switch with no problems with a hd dvd player and a hr20-700 directv dvr.

I don't know if I am digging up a dead tv here, but I've had my 50A10 for a few years. The lamp is the original, only has 3854 hours. Anyways, I began to notice the subtle wavy lines on the screen whether watching DVD, blu-rays, or playing games. They're quite noticeable when my ps3 is just sitting on the XMB with a static background.

Anyone seen these before?

I'm using an HDMI cable to connect my new PS3 to my Pioneer 1018 receiver. The receiver is connected to my Sony KDF-E42A10 via HDMI, as well.

When switching from the main menu of the PS3 to a game (Call of Duty 4 is a good example), the receiver loses HDMI signal from the PS3. It will continue to try to reconnect, but it is not able to. If I switch to a different input on the receiver and then switch back to the PS3, the handshaking will complete and I will get picture and sound.

This does not happen with my TiVo HD, nor did it happen with my old Samsung DVD player connected via HDMI.

Has this happened to anyone else? Is this a receiver issue, a TV Issue, or can I adjust a PS3 setting to fix this?

Thanks in advance.

- Xebec -

Does anyone know how the CC extended warranty works now that CC is in liquidation?

I was told by the repair company that all warranties currently in effect will be honored until their expiration date by a third party company.

The original lamp in my 42A10 burned out today, 3 years and 3 weeks after I bought the tv. I'm looking for a replacement lamp and I see the cheaper ones on ebay are made by Osram with an OEM recycled housing. Are these ok or should I look for another brand?

The original lamp in my 42A10 burned out today, 3 years and 3 weeks after I bought the tv. I'm looking for a replacement lamp and I see the cheaper ones on ebay are made by Osram with an OEM recycled housing. Are these ok or should I look for another brand?

I've read good things about River Valley Electronics:

http://www.rivervalleyelectronics.net/category_s/50.htm

The original lamp in my 42A10 burned out today, 3 years and 3 weeks after I bought the tv. I'm looking for a replacement lamp and I see the cheaper ones on ebay are made by Osram with an OEM recycled housing. Are these ok or should I look for another brand?

I decided to buy a replacement for my 3+ year old lamp and decided to go with a genuine SONY. I think I paid $150 including shipping on eBay and that was probably within $25-30 of the generic replacement lamps.

Who knows if it's any better, but I emailed 2 eBay vendors of the generic ones and neither bothered to answer my questions........

PS: It's like everyone says- looks like a new TV!

I decided to buy a replacement for my 3+ year old lamp and decided to go with a genuine SONY. I think I paid $150 including shipping on eBay and that was probably within $25-30 of the generic replacement lamps.

Who knows if it's any better, but I emailed 2 eBay vendors of the generic ones and neither bothered to answer my questions........

PS: It's like everyone says- looks like a new TV!

I just looked at my burned out lamp, and the bulb is made by Phillips. Does Sony make any of the lamps themselves?

I just looked at my burned out lamp, and the bulb is made by Phillips. Does Sony make any of the lamps themselves?

No clue....for the extra $25 I just wanted something that came in a "Genuine SONY" box......

I've read good things about River Valley Electronics:

http://www.rivervalleyelectronics.net/category_s/50.htm

Thanks for the link. I ended up buying the lamp + housing from their ebay store. The TV looks great with the new lamp, much brighter.

HELP!

Yesterday a tech came out and replaced the lamp on our 3 year old KDF-E50A10 (covered by extended warranty). Our lamp was not completely dead, just much dimmer. The first lamp he installed did not work (red light, no picture). He replaced that one with another, but had a great deal of difficulty getting our set to turn on after. He had to re-seat the lamp several times before it worked.

He then went into the service menu, cleared the lamp time (which I expected) but then began screwing around with some of the other settings. He exited the service menu, shut off the TV and when he turned the set back on, the service menu popped up again. He kept turning on and shutting of the TV repeatedly several times. He finally had me unplug the TV. That cleared the service menu from appearing when we started the set. When he left, I had the TV running and it ran until we went to bed for the night.

This morning when I went to turn on our TV, I got a white screen and a really LOUD howling noise from the speakers (sounded like feedback maybe). I turned off the TV and tried again, same problem. I unplugged the TV, waited a few minutes and tried again. I briefly got a picture and hit the channel button to change to a cable channel input (instead of my directv receiver). The TV picture remained normal and the loud howling was gone. At that point I was able to switch back to my component video input DirecTV receiver and it worked.

I tried my blu-ray player (hdmi), switched to the hdmi input and no handshake from TV, no picture, nothing but a black screen.

If I shut down the TV then turn it back on later on any of the component video inputs, I have the problem all the time (white screen, howling speakers). If I shut down on a cable channel, I usually get just the white screen (no howling). After turning the TV on and off a few times it will start up normally as long as it's on cable input.

What is going on with my TV? I had NO PROBLEMS ever with my TV prior to this so called "tech" coming in and replacing the lamp. They are coming out again in a few days and I would really like to have some idea as to what is wrong before he gets here. They are trying to tell me that this problem is not covered under my extended warranty. They think it's a ????Q-Box???? I told them the TV was fine (other than a darker picture) until they touched it so they own this problem, not my extended warranty company. They are playing hard ball but so am I!

Any ideas as to what this tech could have done to ruin my TV? Could it be just a bad setting he made in the service menu? Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

HELP!

Yesterday a tech came out and replaced the lamp on our 3 year old KDF-E50A10 (covered by extended warranty).

He then went into the service menu, cleared the lamp time (which I expected) but then began screwing around with some of the other settings. .......

First of all, I'm sorry to say that I have no clue.

I see this is one of your first posts.....I've followed this thread for 3+ years and a long time ago someone pointed a similar technical question to another website that really focused on specific SONY models.

If no one can help here, you might want to search this thread (or try Google) to post this question in that forum too.

Hard to believe this problem just coincidentally started during that service call........Good luck!!!!!!!

First of all, I'm sorry to say that I have no clue.

I see this is one of your first posts.....I've followed this thread for 3+ years and a long time ago someone pointed a similar technical question to another website that really focused on specific SONY models.

If no one can help here, you might want to search this thread (or try Google) to post this question in that forum too.

Hard to believe this problem just coincidentally started during that service call........Good luck!!!!!!!

I found the link, but it looks like you posted there too!!!!!

http://review.agoraquest.com/viewtopic.php?topic=34204&forum=34

Keep us posted on your progress on this!!!!!

I found the link, but it looks like you posted there too!!!!!

http://review.agoraquest.com/viewtopic.php?topic=34204&forum=34

Keep us posted on your progress on this!!!!!

Will do. They are coming back out on Monday to look at the TV. I'll post a follow up then.

Thanks!

Just a quick follow up question on my previous post, is there a way to set the "service menu" back to it's default (original factory set) settings? I feel that's the root of the whole problem. The tech fooled around with the service menu and messed up the TV.

Just a quick follow up question on my previous post, is there a way to set the "service menu" back to it's default (original factory set) settings? I feel that's the root of the whole problem. The tech fooled around with the service menu and messed up the TV.

SkyBlue: Back in May of '07, I posted this:

On Page 29 of the Service Manual it says:

3-1-1. Method of Setting the Service Adjustment Mode

1. Standby mode. (Power off)
2. DISPLAY + 5 + VOL (+) +TV POWER
on the remote commander.
(Press each button within a second.)

Method of setting the shipping condition

1. Service Adjustment mode.
2. Press “8” then “[ENTER]”
3. Wait until appearing “Initial Setup” display.
4. Disconnect AC plug and connect again to change factory reset
condition completely.

Please note: I have never tried this, so use these instructions at your own risk. I am not clear as to what is meant by "shipping condition" and "factory reset condition". If you try this, please report back as to what happened.

Mel

And then Yawny posted his experience with trying the method:

OK guys, I bit the bullet and gave it a try. It worked. Totally reset all settings I had changed (red push, overscan etc.) back to day one. I went back into the Service Menu afterward to confirm the settings had been changed. I figured there had to be a backup file in there, like any other backup file, just in case something got screwed up. Thanks to Melanotheron for the post.

Follow the standard procedure above to enter the service menu. From the main screen, push "jump" once to get to the next screen. Then press "8" and you'll see the word "SERVICE" in the upper right hand corner change to "RESET" in yellow. Then press "ent" under the number 9 on your remote. I think steps 3 & 4 above are reversed. Read below...

At first I panicked as the "Initial Setup" didn't display. So I waited a few minutes... still nothing. Waited up to 30 minutes and still no Initial Setup display, so I figured what the heck and unplugged the set. Waited a few more minutes and plugged it back in. The set came on with the "Initial Setup" displayed, and asked me what language I wanted, just like when it was new. I was then asked to do a channel scan, which I did, and when it was through everything was back to normal, with all the options in the user menu at default settings. I had to redo my picture settings for color, contrast etc. Also reset the clock.

So there you go. As Melanotheron mentions, "Please note: I have never tried this, so use these instructions at your own risk." So don't blame us if you screw up. If you're unsure how to do this, DON'T DO IT!!! It worked for me though. YMMV. Good luck!

I still have never done this, and, subsequent posters that tried it weren't sure if it worked or not. Read over the instructions and Yawny's comments carefully! I am only passing on this information in hopes that it helps you out. If you try it, please let us know if it reset the SM values and whether it fixed your problem caused by the technician. Good Luck!

Mel

Thanks for the link. I ended up buying the lamp + housing from their ebay store. The TV looks great with the new lamp, much brighter.

To followup on my earlier post, after I changed my bulb, I reset the lamp time in the service menu. I had 11,800 hours (just over 3 years of use) on the original bulb before it burned out.

SkyBlue: Back in May of '07, I posted this:



And then Yawny posted his experience with trying the method:



I still have never done this, and, subsequent posters that tried it weren't sure if it worked or not. Read over the instructions and Yawny's comments carefully! I am only passing on this information in hopes that it helps you out. If you try it, please let us know if it reset the SM values and whether it fixed your problem caused by the technician. Good Luck!

Mel

Thanks very much for posting this! A different tech is scheduled to come tomorrow. I think I'll wait and see what happens with that for now. But it's really good to know I can fall back on this if needed.

Thanks!! :)

I decided to wait until Super Bowl Sunday to finally swap out my original lamp unit... my final lamp time was... drumroll... 15,451 hours!

As I mentioned in my previous posts, I didn't really think that my picture had dimmed all that much. BOY, was I wrong. The picture looks absolutely amazing now... it's gorgeous!!!

~d.a.w~

Question for you guys about your lamps burning out. Could you detail how your picture looked before the thing ran out of juice? The reason I ask is my picture became extremely dark yesterday, to the point where some of the blacks are significantly crushed now. This happened sort of out of the blue instead of gradually. Is this the way the set looks before the lamp goes or could it be something else?

I've had the set nearly 3 years with a lot of use, so I'm hoping its the lamp. I just don't want to waste money on a new bulb if it turns out to be something else that needs fixing.

Appreciate any feedback, thanks.

Thanks for the link. I ended up buying the lamp + housing from their ebay store. The TV looks great with the new lamp, much brighter.

Just curious... Is it the consensus that it is worth the extra ~$20 to buy the lamp with the housing? Aside from ease of replacement, is there any other benefit?

Just curious... Is it the consensus that it is worth the extra ~$20 to buy the lamp with the housing? Aside from ease of replacement, is there any other benefit?

I bought the whole assembly after reading people suggest that you should clean all of the optics inside the housing if you just buy the bulb.

Just didn't want to mess and break something to save a few bucks.....

Changing out just the lamp is ridiculously simple. There is nothing in the housing to break.

I've had a sudden issue regarding my 50A10. I orginally posted in the HD DVD forums but I suspect it's my A10.

I've had my light engine replaced 4 months ago on my A10. My Toshiba HD-A1 has been connected to it since '06 and it's been fine until last night.

Tried playing a SD DVD 'Body of Lies' and noticed the usual 'handshake' and proceeded to load the movie. Suddenly I noticed the screen would blink in and out every 5 secs. the dvd starts to load and I see the FBI warning briefly then I get 'HDMI error 1'.

So intially I assumed it was my HD-A1 player having a problem. So I changed the hdmi cable with another and that didn't help. So I connected the hd-a1 to my other lcd display and it worked just fine.

I don't understand why my hd-a1 is acting up on the display it's been connected to for 4 years suddenly have an issue?

On a hunch I borrowed my brothers HD-A2 player connected it and tried loading a sd dvd/hd dvd. I get to the splash screen and loading tray icon but as soon as the dvd starts all I get is audio and no picture.

What's strange is I also have a 360 elite via hdmi on the same set and I get the handshake but it still works fine after the intial handshake.

So is my A10 at fault or HD DVD player?

Calling any a10 gurus help?

Calling any a10 gurus help?

Sorry, not a guru, but the common issue I spot in the cable/satellite forums is the HDMI problem.

By any chance is your TV hooked up to a cable system and they recently upgraded their software?

Maybe disconnect the TV from the other input signal and see what happens?

Cable is basic connected via coaxial. No cable box or anything just straight from the cable in the wall.

So far my A1 works fine on another HD LCD. I tried another A2 on my A10 no go. Xbox 360 elite via hdmi plays games fine. Popped in a dvd and I get the 'hdcp' error.

My guess is the A10's HDCP chip has fried or is damaged. It can't recover from the 'handshake'.

So far my A1 works fine on another HD LCD. I tried another A2 on my A10 no go. Xbox 360 elite via hdmi plays games fine. Popped in a dvd and I get the 'hdcp' error.

My guess is the A10's HDCP chip has fried or is damaged. It can't recover from the 'handshake'.

Sooooooo, you had your light engine replaced 4 months ago....let's hope you have an extended warranty!!!!!

no extended warranty but I only paid for labor. light engine would have cost me $1000+

no extended warranty but I only paid for labor. light engine would have cost me $1000+

Hope you can work out a similar deal on this problem!!!!!!

This sucks so bad. Can't even enjoy a dead format with the dam hdmi error 1 on my hd-a1 lol.

hi all, really glad i've found this thread.

i have a e42a10 for almost three years now. i have been connecting the htpc to the tv via dvi/hdmi. the hdmi is shared between my cable box and htpc, needless to say the numerous plugging/unplugging for the past several years damaged the hdmi input on the tv and i can no longer get a reception either from the htpc or the cable box.

so now, i am connecting my htpc to the tv via the vga cable. my vid card detects the tv's resolution at 1280x768 and i used that on the tv. however the screen on the tv looks like is somehow centered and i got black box all around.

how do i fix this?

btw, i am running nvidia 9800gt on vista home premium.

My A10 has had the HD-A1 via hdmi connected to it for 3 yrs and has been working fine until several days ago. Now it cannot resolve the 'handshake'.

I've tried several hdmi devices.

Toshiba HD-A1>>>screen blinks every 5 sec. until the HD-A1 stops and displays the 'HDMI Error 1' message.

Toshiba HD-A2>>>no picture but has sound via hdmi

Playstation 3>>>no picture/ no sound

Xbox 360 Elite/hdmi>>>works fine and plays games but dvd playback the 'HDCP Secure link error' appears

So is it safe to say my HDMI input on my A10 has been damaged?

Hi all. New to the forum here. I have the kdf e4210a 42" rear projection tv. About a week ago it stopped working. When I turned it on the green light came on but no picture or sound. I assumed it was the bulb although the bulb light was not on. I ordered a new bulb and replaced it but was unable to get it to work with that. Now when I plug in the tv the green light flashes 7 times and then the red light 3 times. The red light pauses, and then blinks 3 times again. This does not stop until I unplug the unit. I do not have the manual as the tv was given to me by a friend who lost the manual. I am aware there is some sort of switch for the lamp door and assume that the switch is not properly tripped, but have tried over and over again to get this right and am unable to. Suggestions of what to do to get this tv work again? thanks so much.

hi all, really glad i've found this thread.

i have a e42a10 for almost three years now. i have been connecting the htpc to the tv via dvi/hdmi. the hdmi is shared between my cable box and htpc, needless to say the numerous plugging/unplugging for the past several years damaged the hdmi input on the tv and i can no longer get a reception either from the htpc or the cable box.

so now, i am connecting my htpc to the tv via the vga cable. my vid card detects the tv's resolution at 1280x768 and i used that on the tv. however the screen on the tv looks like is somehow centered and i got black box all around.

how do i fix this?

btw, i am running nvidia 9800gt on vista home premium.

If I recall correctly, the VGA input is lousy, since for some stupid reason the color control options ("Vivid", etc) are not available. If at all possible, I suggest using component video out from your video card.

If you decide to continue down the VGA route (or even if you go the component route), you can adjust the picture to fit your TV screen using the "overscan" options of your video card drivers. You will get the best picture quality by selecting a resolution that precisely matches the TV. I suspect if you search this thread you'll see a lot of discussion about overscan (to fit the image to the screen) and 1:1 pixel mapping. Good luck!

Hi all. New to the forum here. I have the kdf e4210a 42" rear projection tv. About a week ago it stopped working. When I turned it on the green light came on but no picture or sound. I assumed it was the bulb although the bulb light was not on. I ordered a new bulb and replaced it but was unable to get it to work with that. Now when I plug in the tv the green light flashes 7 times and then the red light 3 times. The red light pauses, and then blinks 3 times again. This does not stop until I unplug the unit. I do not have the manual as the tv was given to me by a friend who lost the manual. I am aware there is some sort of switch for the lamp door and assume that the switch is not properly tripped, but have tried over and over again to get this right and am unable to. Suggestions of what to do to get this tv work again? thanks so much.

First of all, I think it's pretty hard not to seat the bulb properly.

I think the service manual can be found here:

http://www.docs.sony.com/release/KDFE42-50A10.pdf

Also, this website has a lot of info on blinking lights/troubleshooting:

http://www.agoraquest.com/

Good luck!!!!!

Hi all. New to the forum here. I have the kdf e4210a 42" rear projection tv. About a week ago it stopped working. When I turned it on the green light came on but no picture or sound. I assumed it was the bulb although the bulb light was not on. I ordered a new bulb and replaced it but was unable to get it to work with that. Now when I plug in the tv the green light flashes 7 times and then the red light 3 times. The red light pauses, and then blinks 3 times again. This does not stop until I unplug the unit. I do not have the manual as the tv was given to me by a friend who lost the manual. I am aware there is some sort of switch for the lamp door and assume that the switch is not properly tripped, but have tried over and over again to get this right and am unable to. Suggestions of what to do to get this tv work again? thanks so much.

The red light indicates that the lamp door is not completely attached......
from the service manual------------------

"red : The lamp door or the lamp is not securely attached.
The red indicator will continue to flash in intervals of three
blinks at a time until the lamp door or the lamp is placed
correctly. When the lamp door or the lamp is securely
attached, the TV will turn on with green indicator."

The green light flashing 7 times is some kind of audio error............

"7 : Audio When DC voltage is detected at the speaker output, pin 149 of TV-micro is low
and it tums off the main power"

"Audio error 7 times - Short-circuit of Audio power
supply line.
-Blow out of fuse.
(PS3001 on K board)
-IC failure.
(IC3005 on K board - No picture/No sound"


Recheck your lamp installation and see if that helps.

Link to owners manual;

http://www.docs.sony.com/release/KDFE42-50A10.pdf

I don't remember where I got the service manual from.

Hi all. New to the forum here. I have the kdf e4210a 42" rear projection tv. About a week ago it stopped working. When I turned it on the green light came on but no picture or sound. I assumed it was the bulb although the bulb light was not on. I ordered a new bulb and replaced it but was unable to get it to work with that. Now when I plug in the tv the green light flashes 7 times and then the red light 3 times. The red light pauses, and then blinks 3 times again. This does not stop until I unplug the unit. I do not have the manual as the tv was given to me by a friend who lost the manual. I am aware there is some sort of switch for the lamp door and assume that the switch is not properly tripped, but have tried over and over again to get this right and am unable to. Suggestions of what to do to get this tv work again? thanks so much.

When this happened to me... I had forgotten to reinsert the interior door (the one with the plastic "locking" mechanism). Once I put that back in, it worked like a champ...

Awaiting service to do a house call. Hopefulyl the tech can diagnose the issue.

got my lamp replaced under my Sony warranty. I'll check the lamp hours sometime soon out of curiosity.

FWIW, believe the hype, the picture is fantastic if your bulb is getting up in age. Hurts my eyes in a dark room, I have to recalibrate.