I came across this item that surely caught my interest considering the excessively high cost of these HDMI/DVI switches. I can't post a link since there isn't a reference to it on their site, but here is the specs and photo on the switch.
Now the bad news.
It's mechanical, not electronic (passive vs active) which means contacts that will oxidize down the road. That also means NO remote control.
But, for well less than half the price of the 'other' switch? :eek:
One place to get it is;
http://www.markertek.com/SearchProduct.asp?item=DVIAB%2D1&off=6&sort=prod
Link updated

The problem here may be that the switch is not HDCP compliant, in which case, a lot of DVI/HDMI devices won't talk to it.

The problem here may be that the switch is not HDCP compliant, in which case, a lot of DVI/HDMI devices won't talk to it.

If it is a straight mechanical switch - how can it be HDCP compliant - and why would it have to be?

Surely a mechanical switch is doing the same as same as pulling out a cable from one source and replacing it with a cable from another source? Won't the HDCP algorithms re-handshake after a second or three?

I guess it is possible, but I'll wait for someone else to spend their hundred dollars and verify that there isn't a problem. It would have provided some assurance if the promo for the item had noted that it was HDCP compatible.

This is a touchy issue with me since I spent many an hour dealing with Samsung and my DVI switch vendor trying to resolve handshake issues between my Samsung DVD player, the switch, and my Samsung DLP DTV. Even now it isn't a sure thing everytime I use the switch.

I came across this item that surely caught my interest considering the excessively high cost of these HDMI/DVI switches. I can't post a link since there isn't a reference to it on their site, but here is the specs and photo on the switch.

Now the bad news.
It's mechanical, not electronic (passive vs active) which means contacts that will oxidize down the road. That also means NO remote control.

But, for well less than half the price of the 'other' switch? :eek:

Give it a shot. We elect you to get it and test it. If it doesn't work, return it. If it does, it's an alternative to the expensive Gefen switch. Meanwhile, I'm waiting for the Gefen 4x2 HDMI switch to be released next week.

I own the dtrovision 4x1 HDMI switch and it works great. It is expensive but it was worth it for me.

http://www.dtrovision.com/hds41R.htm

but I'll wait for someone else to spend their hundred dollars Please read again. I said it was "well under $100". ;)
We elect you to get it and test it. If it doesn't work, return it. I have already planned on trying it. I would have to try it with both my computers with a DVI out to my 19" LCD monitor since that is all I have with a DVI out.
The distributor already offered a full refund if I didn't like it.

HDMI is by definition HDCP-compliant, and as sneals2000 said, a plain mechanical pin-to-pin switch should be basically no different from two cables end-to-end. I will be happy to be a 'guinea pig' and spend the money on one or two of these.

When I receive the switch I will post pics of the inside. I'm also interested just how they wired the two connectors. If in parallel, then can it be used as a plug adapter? DVI on one input and DVI on another or any variation?

I would have to try it with both my computers with a DVI out to my 19" LCD monitor since that is all I have with a DVI out.
The distributor already offered a full refund if I didn't like it.

Google "DVI switch" and you will find several, relatively inexpensive, DVI switches out there. But, they are for computer setups, not DTV video, which is why folks in these forums have been stuck w/ the expensive Gefen and Dtrovision switches.

I look forward to the posted results for use of this switch in DTV video application. I'm going to be adding another DVI item to my system and I'm out of switch ports on my current DVI switch.

It appears to have HDMI AND DVI connectors on each in/out. :confused:

Here is the switch.

The good:
Cost
BOTH DVI & HDMI inputs/outputs
all wiring on a circuit board, no separate wires

The bad:
large footprint
connections on 3 sides (takes up alot of real estate)
no mounting holes
mechanical switching
non remote control

It appaeras this is a 4x2 switch. Separate paths for the DVI & HDMI connections. Which means you can't mix connectors, has to be either DVI or HDMI. BUT, it also means you have the ability of 2 DVI devices and 2 HDMI devices going to 2 different monitors.

As far as mounting you could remove 2 of the 4 screws from the bottom and drill through the case and use a small diameter screw to mount the unit to the side of the stand or mount it under a shelve. You could also use drywall screws and mount the whole assembly with cables attached using the connectors as a mount point with screw on both sides of the connectors.

silly question but could someone tell me where to buy this??

Boy, what a silly question......... :D

If you were a dealer you would go here;
http://www.centronics.com/contact.php

You can buy that switch at Markertek, great store.

$9 more than dealer cost.

I was considering this switcher because I have one of those Sanyo 32" hdtv's that are notorious for poor component inputs. With this you could have your dvd and hdtv cable box plugged through the hdmi port which is great on these tv's.

But my tv isn't positioned in the room in a hard place to get to the back of. I'd just be better off saving some money and switching the cables manually since I have to get off the couch regardless right?

What a coincidence, I just bought this switch from Amazon.com:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B000B8UV3M

Shipping was fast and reasonable. I received it yesterday and promptly opened it up. It's a purely passive switch so I think it avoids all of the HDCP compliant nonsense. However, I do not have a HDCP compliant source yet. I purchased this in anticipation of getting a HDTV STB, which will certainly have HDCP.

It's made in China, not that high quality feeling, certainly not worth $44, but with no competition out there, what do you expect. I think this thing could be cranked out in massive quantities for $20 each.

not that high quality feeling Actually it was better than I thought. The case is the worst part.
Even at $45 it's beats paying $230 for a remote switch! Just don't know how it will hold up over time. But, at that price you could buy 5 of them and be ahead.

Here is the site;
http://www.philmore-datak.com/new_2005.htm

Just would like to report back that this switch is working beautifully. I have the following:

Oppo DVD player via 3' DVI cable to switch box
Accurian HDTV STB via 3' HDMI-DVI cable to switch box
Switchbox via 12' DVI cable to Toshiba 57H81 TV

Everything works fine. No HDCP issues as far as I can tell between the HDTV STB and the TV (Oppo is not HDCP compliant).

this switch is working beautifully.

Does the switcher really have the ability to switch two HDMI inputs to one HDMI output? It's hard to tell from the picture posted at Amazon. Also, I couldn't tell how you actually do the switching. Any info would be appreciated. I have two HDMI sources and and a one-HDMI-input TV. I was considering getting the Gefen switch but this is much more attractive price-wise if it does the job.

I own the dtrovision 4x1 HDMI switch and it works great. It is expensive but it was worth it for me.

http://www.dtrovision.com/hds41R.htm

Hi rwestley. I couldn't find the price of this unit on the site. Can you tell me how much this costs?

Anyone else have any experience with this HDMI switcher from dtrovision?

Also being that it's HDMI, does this mean it won't accept a DVI signal? What if my equipment only has DVI out?

phxreg & isamu; please looks at the photos in post #13 closer. There are HDMI & DVI inputs AND outputs on the unit. It is unknown if you can mix them.
It switches manually via the two push buttons.

I just got this switcher two days ago (from Markertek), and it works great. I really can't find anything wrong with it.

I am using a Viewsonic N3250w (HDMI), a RS Accurian HTS 6000 tuner (HDMI) and a Toshiba SD-5970 dvd player (HDMI that is HDCP). Switching between the tuner and dvd player is a breeze. I tested Attack of the Clones on my dvd player and had no problems viewing it. I compared the picture with and without the switcher and the image was the same. For audio (on both the tuner and dvd player), I use a digital optical cable connected to my receiver, so I don't use the switcher's audio port (which isn't optical or coaxial)

If you are tired of reaching behind your devices plugging and unplugging them, then this is a great solution that won't put the hurt on your wallet. I think the companies that charge $250 and up for switchers that do the same thing are really going to keep their eyes on this little wonder. Some may argue that it doesn't have a remote like the more expensive brands. Well, if I have the choice of spending $200 just so I have a remote or spending under $40 and getting off the couch to click a simple switch, that decision for me is easy.

My only personal advice after getting this switcher is, before switching between one port to the other, make sure everything is off, and then click the button. I am not sure it's safe to do this while everything is on.

Hum I might have to try one of these little guys

-Gary

I have a STB w/ HDMI and a DVD player w/HDMI and am looking into a switcher. Does the HDMI digital sound travel threw this device to the TV? (for those times when u dont want to use your reciever)

So far, people have posted using this in either a straight HDMI or DVI configuration. As videobruce asks, has anyone tried one HDMI and one DVI input? On the Markertek website, their description is "Inputs can either be two HDMI or two DVI or one of each to an HDMI or DVI output," so it sounds like you can mix. Not sure if this is even the same model as the Centronix (picture looks slightly different).

I have a STB w/ HDMI and a DVD player w/HDMI and am looking into a switcher. Does the HDMI digital sound travel threw this device to the TV? (for those times when u dont want to use your reciever)

I will try using my TV's speaker only with the switcher this weekend and will post my findings. I usually go into my TV's menu and shut off my TV's sound and use only my receiver. Since most of the HD I watch has Dolby 5.1 and a majority of my dvd's are 5.1, it just makes sense to use my receiver.

If you have STB, why not get the Radio Shack Tuner which is about $90, if you can find it (they are selling out fast). I am using this tuner for HD network programs and I have basic cable from Comcast. The only thing I use my basic cable is for Discovery channel which I enjoy. :D

Go to the topic that reads: Radio Shack STB Clearance Sale

I will try using my TV's speaker only with the switcher this weekend and will post my findings. I usually go into my TV's menu and shut off my TV's sound and use only my receiver. Since most of the HD I watch has Dolby 5.1 and a majority of my dvd's are 5.1, it just makes sense to use my receiver.

If you have STB, why not get the Radio Shack Tuner which is about $90, if you can find it (they are selling out fast). I am using this tuner for HD network programs and I have basic cable from Comcast. The only thing I use my basic cable is for Discovery channel which I enjoy. :D

Go to the topic that reads: Radio Shack STB Clearance Sale


Danos - Thanks...i am looking forward to your findings.

Danos - Thanks...i am looking forward to your findings.

Okay, I tried using just my TV speakers with this switcher using HDMI. The results are yes, audio does pass through the switcher just fine. I also noticed that this switcher does have coaxial ports on all three side. In an earlier post I said the switcher didn't have them, but apparently it does. Another bonus of this affordable device. :D

Markertek has the switch for $39;

http://www.markertek.com/Product.asp?cat=VIDEOEQUIP&subcat=&prodClass=VASWCH&search=0&off=0&baseItem=DVIAB%2D1

I have two of these now, and they work fine. Since it is a mechanical switch, it should pass the audio the same as if you connected two HDMI cables together (that is it will have no effect). As videobruce said in Post #13, it does not mix HDMI and DVI signals 'out of the box', but I do plan to modify one of my switches (or both) to accomplish that. The mod will involve cross-connecting matching pins from the output connectors to each other.

I have done 'hot-switching' of signals as well as displays (I have had both switches back-to-back to two sources and two displays at once), and I have seen no problems.

But then HDMI-DVI adapters are so cheap (around $6 I think), I guess it's ok if HDMI and DVI can't be mixed by the box.

I ordered the box to switch 2 inputs. I will need to also switch 2 outputs later and I was actually thinking of getting a DVI Y cable for doing that by sending the same HDMI/DVI input to the 2 outputs at the same time, does that work ? The 2 outputs wouldn't have to be on at the same time. I have seen such cables available.

Other than not having a remote, is there a disadvantage to this switch as opposed to the more expensive ones? As long as I'm not going to notice a drop in picture quality I can deal with getting up to switch inputs.

is there a disadvantage to this switch as opposed to the more expensive ones? The contacts will go bad eventually. With the electronic switches there is no worry about that happening. For the price difference, who cares.

The contacts will go bad eventually. With the electronic switches there is no worry about that happening. For the price difference, who cares.

Also an apparent lack of remote or link control.

Kal

Hey guys Could somebody who owns this please tell me what all of the inputs and outputs are on this switcher? I'm very interested in purhcasing this switcher. Thanks Stu

HDMI, DVI-I dual link, RCA coaxial digital audio, RCA left and right analog audio. Input 1 jacks on left side, input 2 jacks on right side, output jacks on back, two pushbuttons on front.

Since this is a plain mechanical switch, you could, for example, also use the 'digital audio' jacks for composite video, I am sure.

Hey guys Could somebody who owns this please tell me what all of the inputs and outputs are on this switcher? I'm very interested in purhcasing this switcher. Thanks StuPlease take a closer look at the posted pics.

This one too expensive? What's the difference, just use what you need.

Can anyone confirm the resolution for this cheap device? It seems most switchers are either 1600x100 or 1920x1280. I need 1920x1280 for my Mac mini. If anyone can confirm this, I'd like to know.

Thanks!

fetopher, it 's just a mechanical switch so it supports all resolutions in theory, there could be bandwidth limitations though.

I am having an issue with this switch.
I have an HTPC and a cable box as inputs. When the HTPC is turned off and the cable box is on, some of the lights in my PC light up ! As if some power from the cable box was going to the PC through the DVI cable. Maybe some of the signals are not switched but shared ?
Although that doesn't prevent things from working, I am a bit concerned about that.

I am also getting sparkles on the output with the cable box as input and with a black images. It could be my cables though, I need to test that.

Can anyone confirm the resolution for this cheap device? It's a passive device, it just passes what's there. No more limitations than the cables connected to it. Remember it's a digital signal.When the HTPC is turned off and the cable box is on, some of the lights in my PC light up How about another device? Are these HDMI or DVI?I am also getting sparkles on the output with the cable box as input and with a black images. How is it w/o the switch?

The remote switchers don't hold up. I've had two and both quit switching after about 6 months. They also don't have any way to manually switch.

Bill

The 2 sources are DVI. One is an HTPC (no HDMI cards yet) and the other one is a Motorola 6200 HD Cable STB. I don't have another DVI source to try with.
I haven't found the time to try without the switch yet to see if there are still sparkles. I won't be able to just plug the 2 cables together since they both have male connectors but I will try the different cables one by one.

finally something that I've searched for over a year! I could not believe the arm and a leg they are charging for these remote-control switches! You might as well buy a whole new av receiver that switches! I will definately get this little mechanical switch - what a find!

what a find!that's what I thought................

I hope this will force the others to drop their prices to something more reasonable.

Since I already own an electronic 2 into 1 DVI switch, I'll need to wait for a 4 into 1 version of this mechanical switch. I've already got a 3rd component w/ a DVI out that I can't add to my system and setting up this mechanical switch at a lower tier into the electronic switch is just too busy a setup for me.

Anybody have any info on the possibility of a 4 into 1 version of this switch?

I am having an issue with this switch.
I have an HTPC and a cable box as inputs. When the HTPC is turned off and the cable box is on, some of the lights in my PC light up ! As if some power from the cable box was going to the PC through the DVI cable. Maybe some of the signals are not switched but shared ?
Mine does this also. Maybe the 5V signals are linked? I do not like it either.

Would it be possible to use this switch in reverse - 1 input, switched outputs?
I have a video card with 1 DVI output. I have it hooked up to my PC monitor right now, but I'd also like to hook it up to my RPTV. I don't need to have them both on at once. Could I just connect the video card to the "output" and both displays to the "inputs" and have it work in reverse? I don't see a reason why not since its just mechanical, but just wanted to check what everyone thinks.

I'll need to wait for a 4 into 1 version of this mechanical switch. Might have to hold your breath. That type of mechanical switch would add considerably to the cost of the device.Would it be possible to use this switch in reverse - 1 input, switched outputs? Yes, don't see why not.

www.monoprice.com lists a HDMI switch w/ remote for $172. It's not a Gefen; does anyone have any experience with it?

about the sparkles I mentionned earlier, I was not able to isolate the problem to the cables or the switch as I don't have the a DVI Female-Female adapter. The cables when used alone are fine, but it may be the doubling of the length when adding the switch that causes the problem.

Has anyone tried using a simple DVI Y splitter ($5) for sending the same DVI or HDMI source to 2 displays instead of a switch like this or an electronic splitter ? The 2 displays wouldn't have to be on at the same time.

www.monoprice.com lists a HDMI switch w/ remote for $172. It's not a Gefen; does anyone have any experience with it?
Specs look pretty good

The HDMI Switcher allows access to multiple HDMI devices, such as DVD players and Satellite set-top boxes to one HDMI display.
It's a best choice for home theater systems and dual computer users.
No more hassles of manually plugging in different HDMI connectors to view different HDMI sources.

- Easy switching of multiple HDMI sources(e.g. DVD, cable/satellite receiver) using remote control or the switch button on the switcher.
- Individual LED Display of video source channels.
- Supports 480i, 480p, 720i, 720p, 1080i and 1080p resolution.
- Maintains highest HDMI single link video resolution.
- Supports DDWG standard for HDMI compliant monitors.
- HDCP Compliant.

Will the HDMI from a STB and a DVD carry the audio signal as well that can be carried from the Markertek switcher box?

I'm probably going to get this one but wanted to know if the audio via HDMI can be outputted as well.

That would be very, very nice.

Can anyone verify?

So, is it possible to "double up" on these cheaper switches? I mean hooking one switcher into another without loss of resolution. Or, is better just to wait or buy a 4 input version?

www.monoprice.com lists a HDMI switch w/ remote for $172. It's not a Gefen; does anyone have any experience with it?Notice the brand name is covered up in the pic.So, is it possible to "double up" on these cheaper switches? Yes, but that would only get you one additional input.

Notice the brand name is covered up in the pic.
No - it looks pretty easy to read, at least for me - "Digimedia" which is listed on the hdmi.org website as an "adopter"
http://www.hdmi.org/about/adopters_founders.asp

Company website (Taiwanese company) here :-
http://www.digimedia.com.tw/

peter

Ok, it's on the top, upside down. Not easy to read especially in yellow. There is still a store name covering the name on two of the views.
That website only shows TV's.................

Ok, it's on the top, upside down. Not easy to read especially in yellow. There is still a store name covering the name on two of the views.
That website only shows TV's.................
True, but many company websites are not kept up to date or show their complete product range. To be honest, I am not sure what the point you are trying to make is...

peter

The contacts will go bad eventually. With the electronic switches there is no worry about that happening. For the price difference, who cares.

just curious...any idea how long "eventually" is? is it safe to say it would be longer than 2 years? i'd like to buy this as a stop gap until i can afford a decent AV reciever with 3 HDMI inputs, which will probably be a year or so. right now i only need 2 (cable box and dvd) but i'll need a 3rd when the ps3 debuts next summer/fall. also, is it pretty much agreed on that this device has no negative effect on image quality? thanks.

I am not sure what the point you are trying to make is... Just that it seems they are trying to hide the manufactures' name.
any idea how long "eventually" is? is it safe to say it would be longer than 2 years? depends and hopefully.

Depends on how good the contacts are. For that price, it's a toss-a-way. You can always use contact cleaner (without the lube added) to clean the switch if it starts acting up.

thanks, hopefully it should hold up for a year. unfortunately markertek is now backordered until 11/30/2005. anyone know of a vender who has stock?

Look at the first page, there should be 2 links for sources.

Actually it was better than I thought. The case is the worst part.
Even at $45 it's beats paying $230 for a remote switch! Just don't know how it will hold up over time. But, at that price you could buy 5 of them and be ahead.

Here is the site;
http://www.philmore-datak.com/new_2005.htm

does this site offer online ordering? i can't seem to find a way to add the switcher to a cart.

No idea, someone else posted that link.
Call them.

Will the HDMI from a STB and a DVD carry the audio signal as well that can be carried from the Markertek switcher box?

I'm probably going to get this one but wanted to know if the audio via HDMI can be outputted as well.

That would be very, very nice.

Can anyone verify?

I am currently using this switch with my STB and DVD. I can confirm that the HDMI audio signal does input/output from this switcher box.

Woah! I'm glad I found this thread! I was planning to buy a Gefen DVI or HDMI switcher, but was having a tough time deciding what to buy. My current 32" Sammy LCD has DVI in, and I'm running my DVD player via SDI and my Motorola 6208 via DVI into a DVDO iScan HD+, then running DVI from the HD+ to the TV. Given that I'll be getting an XBox 360 on Tuesday and wanting to run VGA to DVI until a proper DVI or HDMI adapter becomes available, I wanted an immediate switchbox solution. A DVI switch would make the most sence right now, but within a year or so I'll have an HDMI source (PS3), and possibly a new 40" LCD with HDMI input.

Anyways, to make a long story short(er), this $40 switch makes it easy to buy for use now, and if I end up needing something different in a year, I haven't wasted much money. Awesome!

Any more info on this HDMI switch?

As in exactly what?

Ya, what exactly. It's a great manual inexpensive switch. People have testified that it works just as good as the expensive ones. The trade off is that it is a manual switch. Only time will tell how well it's durability will hold up. If you don't mind manually switching, then I say it's a steal compared to remote ones. Even if it only lasts a year or maybe 2 years or even longer, prices on the better remote models will surely come down and become more affordable by then. Don't know what else to say.

OK, I do have one specific question re using a switch in general: if I have both my Comcast stb and a dvd player connected to a HDMI switch that goes into the same HDMI input on the TV, then it seems that I would have to change the video settings (Brightness, Contrast, etc.) every time I switch from one to the other, right? I.e., my Mits dlp remembers the separate settings from each different input, but if the cable box and the dvd player both go in to the same input, it obvoulsy can't remember the separate settings for these. Is this correct?

The alternative is to use a Component input for the cable box, and the one available HDMI input for the dvd player, so that the cable and the dvd go in to different inputs--but the downside to this is that the PQ over Component may not be as good as that over HDMI.

millerwill,
What you are assuming sounds correct. You don't have a switcher now correct? So are you running your Comcast box or the dvd through component now? I'm a little confused on how you could have the TV remember seperate settings if you only have one HDMI input on the tv. I think what you are asking to do can only be done with an ultra high end programable switcher.

millerwill, what does "(with BFD)" for your SVS mean??

millerwill,
What you are assuming sounds correct. You don't have a switcher now correct? So are you running your Comcast box or the dvd through component now? I'm a little confused on how you could have the TV remember seperate settings if you only have one HDMI input on the tv. I think what you are asking to do can only be done with an ultra high end programable switcher.

Yes, right now I connect my Comcast stb and my dvd player to the two HDMI inputs on the Mits dlp. How the Mits does not have a VGA input for the PC; one of the HDMI inputs can be set up for a PC, but that then leaves me only 1 HDMI input for the cable box and the dvd player. So the choice I'm faced with is using a Component input for the stb, or getting a HDMI switch and connecting both the stb and dvd to one HDMI input.

You're right, I don't have an HDMI switch at present. Just this morning I did connect the cable box to the Mits via Component, and to my eye it looks just as good (better?) as via HDMI. So it looks like I'll skip the HDMI switch.

millerwill, what does "(with BFD)" for your SVS mean??

BFD = Behringer Feedback Destroyer, a gizmo that is used to 'equalize' the low frequency response (mainly cut out the large peaks due to room resonances) from a sub. There is much discussion of this in the Subwoofer forum.

Excuse the newb question, but i have a STB and a DVD player i want to connect to the switch. For audio on the DVD player , since my receiver doesnt have HDMI, I can still plug it in the to the switch and run digital audio to the receiver via toslink, right?
Meaning, i can have both HDMI and toslink coming from the dvd player, but only use the toslink for audio.

I picked up one of these last weekend, and after I got everything connected, I see sparklies. I tested using different cables of varying lengths both using the HDMI and DVI ports, as well as a direct connect using a coupler/gender-changer (my current cheap "switch"). I would like to use one of these as the price is right, and it beats having to try re-connect everything when I swtich from the cable box to the HTPC. Does anyone know if the quality varies between units? If so, I guess I could take this one back and try a new one. Thanks!

-Don

if I have both my Comcast stb and a dvd player connected to a HDMI switch that goes into the same HDMI input on the TV, then it seems that I would have to change the video settings Yes you would.
Itlnstln; it could be a bacd switch. Try the other input. Just what are you connecting and what set?

I am connecting a Pace cable STB and my HTPC to a Mits HC100u pj. I tried both the HTPC and the STB in both inputs; HDMI and DVI; and reduced cable length (although I use a 10' and a 12' DVI cable coupled w/no issues). I'm thinking it's just a bad switch as well. I'll exchange it this weekend (since I was able to buy it locally) and try another. If that doesn't work, I guess I'll have to look at another option (or keep the $5 gender changer ;) ).

-Don

looks like a solid unit for $40 you cant really go wrong..

just want to clarify.. you can not have a dvi cable go in the dvi port and hdmi go in the hdmi port and then both go out the hdmi port, correct?? so if my hd tivo is hdmi and the htpc is dvi, I would need to get a dvi-hdmi adapter for the htpc and hook up both as hdmi in and then 1 hdmi out to the tv?

thanks

jim

you can not have a dvi cable go in the dvi port and hdmi go in the hdmi port and then both go out the hdmi port, correct?? Correct.

It's really a 4x2 digital switch with separate paths for the HDMI & DVI connectors. That can also be said for the audio & composite video. This is to the best of my knowledge. I only have one digital out device (HTPC).

It would be nice if it did what you asked, but the price would be more (if it could be done without it being a 'active' switch).

I want to hook up a dvi dvd player and a hdmi cable box to a single hdmi input on my tv. Can this switch do it?

I believe it can .. provided that you get a dvi-hdmi adapter or cable for the dvd player - it must go into the switch all hdmi if you want hdmi to come out

I want to build one of these myself but I can't find any 24 contact push button switches like the ones used on these devices. I doubt radioshack would have them. They never carry a good selection of SMD's anymore. Does anyone know a good electronics parts center where I can find switches like these or even the HDMI and DVI ports.

try partsexpress.com

HDMI, DVI-I dual link, RCA coaxial digital audio, RCA left and right analog audio. Input 1 jacks on left side, input 2 jacks on right side, output jacks on back, two pushbuttons on front.



Is it really DVI-I? I have one backordered through Markertek, but if it is DVI-D only then it will not work for me. I need to switch between an iScan HD+ (DVI-D) and an XBox 360 (DVI-A via VGA to DVI). The switch needs to be DVI-I to work.

OK, I do have one specific question re using a switch in general: if I have both my Comcast stb and a dvd player connected to a HDMI switch that goes into the same HDMI input on the TV, then it seems that I would have to change the video settings (Brightness, Contrast, etc.) every time I switch from one to the other, right? I.e., my Mits dlp remembers the separate settings from each different input, but if the cable box and the dvd player both go in to the same input, it obvoulsy can't remember the separate settings for these. Is this correct?

Correct. However, some TV's give you multiple settings for each input. My A10 has Standard, Vivid and Custom settings that can be edited for each input (the standard and vivid don't have as much latitude... but at least some). I haven't engaged this arrangement yet, but plan to when I purchase an upconverting DVD player. Once I do this I intend to store my HDTV STB settings under CUSTOM and DVD settings (more muted) under standard, and just switch back and forth as needed.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10106&cs_id=1010602&p_id=2524&style=&seq=1&format=4

99.00 2 to 1 HDMI switcher w/remote control by Digimedia

Cheapest I've seen yet!

Isn;'t that the same switcher that was selling for $230?? :eek: Maybe someone there saw this thread? ;)

For $60 more, even I would go that route. At least all the connections are on the rear panel unlike this one.

Greetings all,

Has anyone tried the Video/Audio Splitter - HDMI M to HDMI F X 2 found at
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10422&cs_id=1042203&p_id=2522&style=&seq=1&format=2#description ?

If so how is the PQ for running a HDDVR and DVD player into the single intput?

thanks in advance, -Rick

markertek is backordered now until january

I wonder why..............?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10106&cs_id=1010602&p_id=2524&style=&seq=1&format=4 :)

99.00 2 to 1 HDMI switcher w/remote control by Digimedia

Cheapest I've seen yet! Thanks for the heads-up Patrick. :)
I placed my order today for this unit after learning manual switcher was backordered until sometime in January. I believe this is the same unit sold by Octava, but for much less money. I will be running it with a Panny 8UK, Comcast STB and an OPPO DVD. Once I receive and install I will post back results.

Thanks for the heads-up Patrick. :)
I placed my order today for this unit after learning manual switcher was backordered until sometime in January. I believe this is the same unit sold by Octava, but for much less money. I will be running it with a Panny 8UK, Comcast STB and an OPPO DVD. Once I receive and install I will post back results.

I have thought about using this HDMI switch to run both my Comcast stb and dvd player into the same HDMI input on my Mits dlp. But the picture settings for the cable stb source and the dvd source are different, so it seems like I would have to change these settings every time I switch between tv and dvd. Have you found a way to avoid this problem?

I have thought about using this HDMI switch to run both my Comcast stb and dvd player into the same HDMI input on my Mits dlp. But the picture settings for the cable stb source and the dvd source are different, so it seems like I would have to change these settings every time I switch between tv and dvd. Have you found a way to avoid this problem?

No switch alone is going to be able to do that, unless it is also part of a scaler where you can set each input to output for different settings with the scalers own functions.

No switch alone is going to be able to do that, unless it is also part of a scaler where you can set each input to output for different settings with the scalers own functions.

This has been my feeling and thus makes the switch not a very desireable way to go. I have thus taken the simpler solution and am using a Component input for the Comcast stb; to my eyes, the PQ over Component is as good as it was via HDMI, so I'm content (for the present--are we ever totally content with our setups?)

No switch alone is going to be able to do that, unless it is also part of a scaler where you can set each input to output for different settings with the scalers own functions.
How about using an advanced remote and recording a macro that couples the infrared signals that trigger the switch along with sending the requisite PQ adjustments to the TV. I don't have the resources to try it - and it's far-fetched - but I believe, theoretically, it's a viable solution.

How about using an advanced remote and recording a macro that couples the infrared signals that trigger the switch along with sending the requisite PQ adjustments to the TV. I don't have the resources to try it - and it's far-fetched - but I believe, theoretically, it's a viable solution.

It's a good suggestion. If I come to the conclusion that PQ on cable tv via a Component connection is inferior to that via HDMI, then I may try it.

I really doubt that you will be programming any remote with macros to "set" various different calibration adjustments of the TV's picture adjustment settings, to be set in certain ways for different certain outputs based on different input devices.

Because then you are really talking about trying to set a remote up with macros, to go into a TV's own adjustments setup menu, in order to vary the calibration settings of a TV set with numerous different calibration settings for use with playback of various different devices, just via a set of macro remote commands. I don't think you realize how hard that would be, even if it was possible. Which I doubt that it is, as you would need to have macros for adjusting stuff like, color, tint, contrast, black levels, etc. All to certain different sets of values/levels for each and every different input device connected to the switcher.

It is just not even remotely (no pun intended) anywhere even near the same thing, or as easy as. Having two or more actual inputs on the TV itself, that can each also be set differently and independently of each other.

markertek is backordered now until january

It's getting worse. I've had one on order since November 16th, and I was just told they aren't expecting any more stock until February. :(


I really need a DVI switch, and I can't wait until February. *sigh*

Damn Chineese, they want more rice per hour.
Have to get ChinaMart on this! ;)

bishamon - when did you call? the website still says tomorrow for stock.. but I dont put much stock in that :)

here is one for $99 on monoprice - http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10106&cs_id=1010602&p_id=2524&seq=1&format=2&style=

bishamon - when did you call? the website still says tomorrow for stock.. but I dont put much stock in that :)

I called on Friday to follow up on my month-old order. The person I spoke with informed me that they only received a few initially, which sold out quickly, and additional stock has now been pushed back until February. He also said that they haven't been able to find anything similar at a price even close (not surprising).

here is one for $99 on monoprice - http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10106&cs_id=1010602&p_id=2524&seq=1&format=2&style=

I actually must have a DVI switch that uses DVI-I connectors, since my two sources will be a DVDO iScan HD+ (DVI-D) and an XBox 360 (via a VGA-to-DVI-A cable).

I received an email tonight that my switch has shipped!! Checked the tracking number and sure enough.. its on its way!!

merry christmas to all!

jim

Hey guys I have the 4 way hdmi switcher from MONOPRICE. I love mine.... it was like 147.00 plus shipping...... get the 4 input instead of 2 input....

But how do you deal with the fact that different sources need different PQ settings (e.g. Brightness, Contratst, etcl), but they are both coming in on the same input? You don't want to have to reset these every time you switch the HDMI toggle. How do you plan to deal with this?

my hitachi 51f510 has 2 settings for each input - day and night - so i just switch that way


But how do you deal with the fact that different sources need different PQ settings (e.g. Brightness, Contratst, etcl), but they are both coming in on the same input? You don't want to have to reset these every time you switch the HDMI toggle. How do you plan to deal with this?

my hitachi 51f510 has 2 settings for each input - day and night - so i just switch that way
'
Good idea. But on my set (Mits 73727) the analogous settings, 'Bright' and 'Natural', have very different characteristics; i.e., the 'Bright' mode is, well, very BRIGHT, and not something I would use for anything.

Mine is on it's way as well. Due on 12-29. (Ordered on 11-11-05)

I placed an order on December 21st and was told that there due a shipment on December 30th....Im hoping its worth the wait!BUUTTTTTT im receiving HDMI cable today from Monoprice and I'll make my decision as to keep or cancel my order from Markertek.....if the picture quality isnt that much betterthan component ...i'll just wait till I have to have HDMI ......for HDDVD/Blue-Ray/PS3...these are most definately going to have to have HDMI connections..well maybe not the PS3 ....?

I placed my order with markertek yesterday, website said backordered until 12/30. Have those folks who had sparkles resolved their issues? Is it due to cable length?

Also, someone said this is a 4x2 switch, but since you can't mix DVI and HDMI, wouldn't this be more like 2 2x1 switches in one.

I have thought about using this HDMI switch to run both my Comcast stb and dvd player into the same HDMI input on my Mits dlp. But the picture settings for the cable stb source and the dvd source are different, so it seems like I would have to change these settings every time I switch between tv and dvd. Have you found a way to avoid this problem?

I had been running my Comcast HD dvr with component to my Sanyo Z4 until I got a hdmi cable. I hooked it up and toggled back and forth many times to compare the two pictures. The picture was a frozen still shot of course. I also switched through all of the HD channels for my comparison.

To my surprise the component connection had greater "wow" factor every time--more contrast and deeper colors without anything looking unnatural. The hdmi connection looked great but much more subdued.

I decided to run the component connection at 720p to my pj.

You might be surprised as well at the comparison with your ssetup.

Shelly

I had been running my Comcast HD dvr with component to my Sanyo Z4 until I got a hdmi cable. I hooked it up and toggled back and forth many times to compare the two pictures. The picture was a frozen still shot of course. I also switched through all of the HD channels for my comparison.

To my surprise the component connection had greater "wow" factor every time--more contrast and deeper colors without anything looking unnatural. The hdmi connection looked great but much more subdued.

I decided to run the component connection at 720p to my pj.

You might be surprised as well at the comparison with your ssetup.

Shelly

I also agree that the Component connection of my Comcast 6412 III stb/dvr to my Mits dlp gives at least as good--and perhaps better--PQ than HDMI. (However, the HDMI connection of my dvd player to the Mits is significantly better than Component, which is well-known for the Pio 59avi.)

I also agree that the Component connection of my Comcast 6412 III stb/dvr to my Mits dlp gives at least as good--and perhaps better--PQ than HDMI. (However, the HDMI connection of my dvd player to the Mits is significantly better than Component, which is well-known for the Pio 59avi.)

We're saying the same thing. I also use the hdmi of my dvd player to the pj, but use the component for Comcast.

Why do you need the hdmi switcher? Can't you run the Comcast over component and the dvd player over hdmi as well?

Shelly

We're saying the same thing. I also use the hdmi of my dvd player to the pj, but use the component for Comcast.

Why do you need the hdmi switcher? Can't you run the Comcast over component and the dvd player over hdmi as well?

Shelly

That's the point: I DON'T need the HDMI switch once I realized that connecting cable via Component works as well as (or better) than HDMI. [I use the second HDMI input on the Mits to connect a PC--this Mits doesn't have a VGA input for PC's.] Had I wanted to connect the cable stb via HDMI, I would have needed a switch since I would have had 3 HDMI sources (cable, dvd, pc) for the 2 HDMI inputs on the Mits dlp.

That's the point: I DON'T need the HDMI switch once I realized that connecting cable via Component works as well as (or better) than HDMI. [I use the second HDMI input on the Mits to connect a PC--this Mits doesn't have a VGA input for PC's.] Had I wanted to connect the cable stb via HDMI, I would have needed a switch since I would have had 3 HDMI sources (cable, dvd, pc) for the 2 HDMI inputs on the Mits dlp.

Sorry for the misunderstanding. I also realized I would not need the switcher once I saw the high quality of the Comcast component signal.

Shelly

to get back on track.. I installed mine on friday or yesterday.. forget which.. anyway works fine.. can not tell a difference in the material that is switched versus un switched... good buy for $40


jim

Well, I bought the one from markertek and it was DOA. Not only did it not switch properly, it actually shorted out my DVD player when I turned it on! Oh well...

And since I'm in Canada, it's too expensive to return so I guess I'll just chalk it up to experience.

it actually shorted out my DVD player when I turned it on! "Shorted out"?

Just fyi, I ordered my switch from Markertek on 12/28, the order said backordered to 12/30. I called today and was told it's now backordered to approximately 2/24/06. I'm letting my order stand. The person I talked to, Carlos, said it appears the manufacturer is having trouble with 1 component. I'll hurry up and wait.

I want to split out the audio signal of a DVD player's HDMI output so I can connect the audio to my receiver (either via digital coax or digital optical) and the video to my tv via HDMI. This is because my AVR doesn't have HDMI or DVI. Will this cheap-o Philmore passive switch you guys are talking about do this? If not, is there another solution?

I want to split out the audio signal of a DVD player's HDMI output so I can connect the audio to my receiver (either via digital coax or digital optical) and the video to my tv via HDMI. This is because my AVR doesn't have HDMI or DVI. Will this cheap-o Philmore passive switch you guys are talking about do this? If not, is there another solution?
Your DVD Player should also have coax and/or optical outputs....simply hook one of those to your AVR.

I asked Sony about the DVD player audio issue and they said that I couldn't do this. Could they possibly be right, or did I just talk to somebody who was wrong?

I asked Sony about the DVD player audio issue and they said that I couldn't do this. Could they possibly be right, or did I just talk to somebody who was wrong?
I just checked every DVD Player and Recorder with HDMI on sonystyle.com.
They ALL have coax AND optical outputs in addition to HDMI...so why not use that???

===========================================
If you insist on an HDMI solution, You may want to research pricey HDMI switches
with multiple outputs, such as fol. 2in/2out:
http://www.ramelectronics.net/html/EXT-HDMI-242.htm
You can also get 4in/2out switches for future expansion:
http://www.ramelectronics.net/html/EXT-HDMI-442.htm
http://www.ramelectronics.net/html/zektor.htm#hds42

I guess what I was getting at is that I didn't know whether or not the audio signal was essentially married to HDMI if you were connecting to your display via HDMI. So please forgive my ignorance, but what you're saying is that I can connect straight to my tv via HDMI and still connect a digital coax or optical cable to my AVR at the same time for surround sound, correct?

Yup....it's simple and you're trying to make it too hard.

I've had this switch for a while now, wanted to use the DVI ports on both the cable box and the DVD player. Hooked it up and all worked fine for a while. Then one day the DVD player wouldn't respond to anything. Not even powering on or off. The weirdest thing was when I unplugged it the power light remained on. That didn't make sense. I then disconnected the player from the switch, and voila, the player works again. Any idea what is going on here?

One of the interesting features of the DVI interface is that +5V power is sent out over the DVI cable on pin 14 (http://www.networktechinc.com/technote.html). This was designed to support features like DVI signal repeaters, buffers, or even electrical to optical converters, as well as pull up the I2C bus signals (used for EDID and HDCP). One interesting side effect is that very careful design is required to prevent reverse powering an inactive device. I worked on a video component that was able to draw enough power over a DVI cable to I2C pull-up to light the power LED, even when the box power cable was unplugged. This confounded us for some time.

It sounds like your DVD player has lost some sort of protection device on the DVI interface, allowing it to be reverse powered by the switch box. This can have the unpleasant side effect of providing enough power to light the power LED, but not enough voltage to keep the uController in spec, which can cause all manner of bad problems, like unresponsiveness.

I don't know if anybody makes a DVI-DVI adapter that breaks the power line, but if you can find one, it might work for you.

Andrew

It sounds like your DVD player has lost some sort of protection device on the DVI interface, allowing it to be reverse powered by the switch box. This can have the unpleasant side effect of providing enough power to light the power LED, but not enough voltage to keep the uController in spec, which can cause all manner of bad problems, like unresponsiveness.

I don't know if anybody makes a DVI-DVI adapter that breaks the power line, but if you can find one, it might work for you.Andrew

Well thank you. Not that I really understand what you're saying, but the suggestion in your last sentance is something I can grab onto. Essentially though it seems the problem lies in my DVD player and not in the switch.

Has anyone else had this problem?

mine arrived a few weeks back and last week I switched it from DVI to an HDMI setup only to find that my HDMI inputs don't work... I guess I send it back? :( :(

switch, however I seem to be having some issues. Upon receiving my switch I set ip from my STB and my plasma and was getting some picture dropouts. I tried both ports and had the same issues. Had Monoprice send me another switch (great customer service btw!) and received that one earler today. I hooked it up with my STB and my DVD player and experimented a bit. To my dismay I seem to be having the same problems, although on a smaller scale.
Is there a prescibed method for switching between inputs that I should be adhering to? I really would like to have both devices connected via HDMI, but my display has only one HDMI input, so a switch is my only choice.
Anybody having similar issues? Or have an idea that may help me out? Thanks for the insights

I am getting confused as I look through this thread as it seems people are referring to different products at different times. What I would like to know is this:

What are people's experiences with this product? (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10106&cs_id=1010602&p_id=2721&style=&seq=1&format=3#specification) I would really like to be able to use this product as a switcher instead of some of the more expensive DVI ones ($225+). However, I want to make sure it is reasonable for me to expect it to work. I'll be connecting my Comcast Motorola 6412 to it as well as an Oppo DVD player.

I have the 2 port version of the switch you are asking about. As I stated in my post previously, I am having some issues with the picture dropping out when I switch between inputs, and very rarely when switching a ton of channels. The dropout is very brief, about 1 or 2 seconds at best, but no picture is hard to overlook as a fault.
This is my second switch as I had another sent out when I encountered this issue with the first switch. I am wondering if anybody else has similar problems, or if you are supposed to switch inputs while the equipment is off, then power the gear up. I am going to try this method out tonight as I need this to work for me and switching while the gear is off is no big deal if thats the fix.
To date this is the best deal I have found on an HDMI switch, I am not interested in a switching receiver/pre-amp.
Hope this helps you.

Got the Markertek's mechanical DVI/HDMI 2 to 1 switch today. So far so good.

What are people's experiences with this product? (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10106&cs_id=1010602&p_id=2721&style=&seq=1&format=3#specification) I would really like to be able to use this product as a switcher instead of some of the more expensive DVI ones ($225+). However, I want to make sure it is reasonable for me to expect it to work. I'll be connecting my Comcast Motorola 6412 to it as well as an Oppo DVD player.

I had to return that particular model and replace it with the new 5 port version.
From what I understand alot of other people have returned that 4-port model as well. Of course some people haven't had any problems. But I would get the new 5-port version. It's monoprice part #2777.

Also, check this thread out.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=640183

sfhub did an outstanding job reviewing this product.


P.S. Never mind. your in that thread. I tried. :rolleyes:

I want to make certain that this will work with my current setup.

Cable box is hdmi output

Dvd player is dvi output

Can I connect both hdmi and dvi output to this philmore switch box and then it outputs dvi to my tv?

Any updates on this device? What have people's experiences been like?

I have had it for 3 months now.. works great, no problems

Could I connect two DVI sources both with coaxial(for audio)with this thing? Any loss in PQ when using this switch?

i have had no loss in pq via hdmi - I am sure dvi will be the same.. just keep in mind.. its mechanical - so what goes in comes out-- ie.. dvi in dvi out, you can no do hdmi in and dvi out (unless you have adapters)

jim

i have had no loss in pq via hdmi - I am sure dvi will be the same.. just keep in mind.. its mechanical - so what goes in comes out-- ie.. dvi in dvi out, you can no do hdmi in and dvi out (unless you have adapters)

jim

Thanks. Can you say the same about the sound quality? NO degraded audio, even slightly?

unfortunatly I run all my digital audio directly into the onkyo - so I can't say anything on that.

unfortunatly I run all my digital audio directly into the onkyo - so I can't say anything on that.

Silly of me to even ask. I overlooked that is how I have my DVD, CD, DVR connected now.

lol - for $35 and an temporary solution until hdmi switching receivers are more comon place - its worth it

jim

If you just need HDMI/DVI switching, monoprice has a mechanical switch for under $30. It works great at 1080p up to 41ft (using 6ft input cables and 35ft output for a total of 41ft)

At 56ft (6ft + 50ft) I saw some sparkles at 1080p, but I suspect all mechanical switches will have troubles at this length unassisted because it is past the limit for HDMI cables to work reliably.

If you just need HDMI/DVI switching, monoprice has a mechanical switch for under $30. It works great at 1080p up to 41ft (using 6ft input cables and 35ft output for a total of 41ft)

At 56ft (6ft + 50ft) I saw some sparkles at 1080p, but I suspect all mechanical switches will have troubles at this length unassisted because it is past the limit for HDMI cables to work reliably.

I looked hard at monoprice but didn't see any DVI switcher under $30.00. Do you have a link or model number?

I looked hard at monoprice but didn't see any DVI switcher under $30.00. Do you have a link or model number?
http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&style=

Look for 2x1 Push Button type. HDMI and DVI are the same thing from a manual switcher's perspective, just different pin configurations, so just choose the right cable for your equipment.

must be a new product at monoprice.. was not there back in december when I ordered from marketek

jim

I would have gotten the monoprice switch, but it has been out of stock for quite a while now. I just got the Markertek one instead.

I was checking this DVI switch form monoprice, but image of it is not available. I wnat to see what it looks like before buying.

I would have gotten the monoprice switch, but it has been out of stock for quite a while now. I just got the Markertek one instead.
I'd suggest if someone is interested, email monoprice. The switchers have been so popular, they are perpetually out of stock. As they come in, monoprice ships them out to early orders first, so the date on the website keeps getting pushed out, but people are still receiving the switches.

I've just discovered a wierd issue.

I use the markertek manual DVI switch so that I can use both my computer and my Oppo DVD Player with my Dell 24" monitor. The thing is the switch doesn't seem to completely isolate eash signals/currents. Even when I'm switched to the computer there seems to be a backflow of electricity, because all the backlights behind the buttons on the Oppo console are lit up, even when the Oppo is off!! Of course, the backlights disappear when I turn my computer off.

I remember reading about one user whose Oppo player shorted out due to this type of DVI back current. I'm wondering if this is an adverse condition to setup my system.

Any thoughts?

I have the Markertek switch and a couple of times when I switched the outputs have noticed that the other one was still active. You have to give the buttons a good, deliberate push to make sure you have fully switched it.

Has anyone compared this to monoprice's 2x1 manual HDMI switch? Build, reliability and functionality?

well i want to connect my lg dvd player (hdmi) and my stb (dvi/hdcp) to my plasma (dvi/hdcp).
I guess I would have to buy a hdmi-to-dvi cable and then buy one of these guys, right?

P.S. I also want to be ready for hd-dvd or blue-ray. I guess judging from all the talk, both hd-dvd and blu-ray will get you at least 1080i over component? Then it is a non-issue because I will have a free component input on my plasma.

well i want to connect my lg dvd player (hdmi) and my stb (dvi/hdcp) to my plasma (dvi/hdcp).
I guess I would have to buy a hdmi-to-dvi cable and then buy one of these guys, right?

P.S. I also want to be ready for hd-dvd or blue-ray. I guess judging from all the talk, both hd-dvd and blu-ray will get you at least 1080i over component? Then it is a non-issue because I will have a free component input on my plasma.
Yes, you will need a switch and the cables you mentioned.

HD-DVD and BluRay's component output is dependent on whether the author of the disc has enabled the ICT (image constraint token) flag.

If the author has enabled it, the component output will be downrezed. Most studios have said they will not be using the flag in the short term.

Most studios have said they will not be using the flag in the short term.

Yes, that is what I've heard. And if they start using it, I'd be shocked it there would not be a hacked firmware to surconvent the whole issue. But the switch might be the bullet-proof solution for the future.

Can anyone please tell me if this switch have any issues with 40 feet long DVD cable?

Can anyone please tell me if this switch have any issues with 40 feet long DVD cable?
What video format will you be using? 720p, 1080i, or 1080p?

In my experience with monoprice 2x1 mechanical switch, 720p/1080i was good for all the cables I tested up to 50ft. 1080p was good up to 35ft. At 50ft, there were sparkles for my Sharp TV but for my nVidia 6600GT there were no sparkles but slight static pixels (basically looks like stuck/flickering pixel, but it is fault of cable length) Basically it will depend on your source equipment as well.

What video format will you be using? 720p, 1080i, or 1080p?

In my experience with monoprice 2x1 mechanical switch, 720p/1080i was good for all the cables I tested up to 50ft. 1080p was good up to 35ft. At 50ft, there were sparkles for my Sharp TV but for my nVidia 6600GT there were no sparkles but slight static pixels (basically looks like stuck/flickering pixel, but it is fault of cable length) Basically it will depend on your source equipment as well.


I am trying to connect a BARVO D1 and OPPO DVD players to Infocus 4805 PJ using M1 cable from the switch to PJ. So I will be sending 480/720p only. Monoprice is out of the mechanical switch till may. I called them and I was told since it is coming with a container, I assume from China, ETA is Mid May. That is why I am now looking to buy this switch from Markertek.

I think the Oppo will probably have no issues at that length. I do not know about the Bravo.

I have the same issue,

I have Bravo D2 and Dish 942 going to PT-AE700 projector,
When I swith the button to Dish 942, Bravo D2 is powered on(back current
from DVI/or (42). Also when I switch back to Bravo, Bravo does not send
signals to through DVI, I have to physically unplug the connector, and reconnect back and power on Bravo to make it work.

It virtually has become useless for me now.
Any thoughts ?.

Haarri,
I use an Oppo w/ markertek mechanical switch. It lights up the front panel buttoms of Oppo, when the other hdmi device is on. The oppo does not really on, I means it does not start to load disc and play, the display panel is off to. It does not cause any problem to me, so far.

I use dvi-hdmi cable connect oppo to switch.

As for now the back-current issue still exists, but I don't want to risk my equipment over this glitch. So I just unplug my Oppo from the switch whenever I'm using my computer. It's sort of negates the whole point of using a switch, but the switch is in a really convenient location so plugging and unplugging the DVI cable isn't too much trouble. Until I find a better switch for cheap.....

Item now appears to be $38.99 - DVI-D not DVI-A...

Item# is DVIAB-1, I would post the direct URL, but the system wont let me.

Regards,
Tim

I just got the switch shipped to me at work, It is DVIAB-1....now I cannot tell right now if it is DVI-I or DVI-D.....the only way for me to check would to be check it at home....

I have the same issue,

I have Bravo D2 and Dish 942 going to PT-AE700 projector,
When I swith the button to Dish 942, Bravo D2 is powered on(back current
from DVI/or (42). Also when I switch back to Bravo, Bravo does not send
signals to through DVI, I have to physically unplug the connector, and reconnect back and power on Bravo to make it work.

It virtually has become useless for me now.
Any thoughts ?.
I am having similar problems with my switch and DCT6200(Motorola Cable box) and my pc. The switching part is not working with my dell projector and I hate turning everything off and on to get it to work. Any suggestions on how to fix it, I dont want to plug/unplug the cables to make it work everytime.

Sonisame

Was wondering if anyone had any experience with this switch(Daewoo HDS-21A HDMI Switch) good or bad? Iwas just wondering if it does what I hope it can do give me two HDMI inputs from a single HDMI input that the Sony KFE42A10 offers. I found the HDMI a bit better than the component on Hi Def is this a correct assumption or is just in my head? :rolleyes:

I bought the monoprice HDMI switch and it works great switching from my HTPC or Dish DVR to a display, now I want to switch that output to either my Westy monitor or Panny projector. I was surprised the Monoprice one will not work backwards, thought it was wire for wire but I guess not. Any ideas on a switch for two display devices with one input?


Chris

Just throwing more fuel on this simmering fire:

Markertek has the previously-chatted-about 2-1 manual HDMI switch for $39
http://www.markertek.com/SearchProduct.asp?item=DVIAB%2D1&off=8&sort=prod

Amazon has it for $44
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B000B8UV3M

However, Monoprice has a different unit for $29
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011001&p_id=2786&seq=1&format=2

And... Monoprice has a 4-1 manual unit for $61:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011001&p_id=2825&seq=1&format=2&style=


This thread was started long ago. Any new input? Sad to say, many manufacturers are still charging seemingly-absurd amounts of money for a single little (remote, electircal) device. You can buy lawmowers cheaper!

However, Monoprice has a different unit for $29
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011001&p_id=2786&seq=1&format=2

This is definitely the best of the bunch. Besides being the most affordable, it works great at 1080p 60Hz with no sparkles or degradation. It just works with everything you throw at it, Samsung BluRay, Toshiba HD-DVD, etc. etc.

Has anyone tried 5X1 Enhanced HDMI Switch with built-in Equalizer (REV.2.0)
It cost $122+shipping but it's 5x1 HDMI.
I was wondering isn't that a better choice than the 2x1 HDMI switches, which limits you to only two devices, and as far as the industry goes, there will be more devices to attach to your TV.
I saw a reviewer from monospace "sfhub" had reviewed the device very thoroughly but also I would like to hear it from someone else.

Thank you


EDIT:
Sorry for the Q, I've found a post regarding my questions on this site, and was happy to read all those positive reviews, so I ordered one. I hope it will prove itself to it's reviews. ;)

Guys I need a good HDMI switcher. Doesn't have to be under $100, but must be a fairly decent and nice.

Does Videostorm sell HDMI switch boxes? I didn't see any at their site.

monoprice.com - best bang for your buck

what is the application for the switcher? how many inputs needed? Cable run length? What's the budget? -Jeff

what is the application for the switcher? how many inputs needed? Cable run length? What's the budget? -Jeff
As of right now, four inputs needed, one output, going into my BenQ 8720 pj.

Laptop only has DVI, so need a good DVI TO HDMI cable, to go to switchbox, about 3ft long

PS3 HDMI out to switch box, about 4ft-5ft long

Oppo DVD player HDMI out to switch box, about 3ft long

That's about it really....already have a seperate switchbox for component video.

I bought the monoprice HDMI switch and it works great switching from my HTPC or Dish DVR to a display, now I want to switch that output to either my Westy monitor or Panny projector. I was surprised the Monoprice one will not work backwards, thought it was wire for wire but I guess not. Any ideas on a switch for two display devices with one input?


Chris

In that case you do not need a switch but a splitter. indeed you would prefer a splitter since it is cheaper, has not mechanical parts to wear, and requires no usur input (mechanical or remote).

monporice item# 2522 -- Video/Audio Splitter - HDMI M to HDMI F X 2
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10422&cs_id=1042203&p_id=2522&seq=1&format=2&style=

Ismau, I'd go with the Monoprice 5X1 w/ built-in Equalizer.
linky here (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=2777&seq=1&format=2&style=)

New here, trying to find a cheap switch to use multiple HDMI devices with a TV with only 1 HDMI input.

Have seen this website before (came up with Google search for HDMI switch)

Links to chinese companies you can buy direct.

since I'm new and can't do links, website is called alibaba. Do a seach for "hdmi switch"

Unfortunately, there maybe a minimum order, so may have to find a few ppl to buy a product.

[edit]
This is not spam, I'm not trying to solicit anything. Just thought might be helpful

alibaba seems to be a Chinese suppliers directory listing. It's mainly for B2B.

Monoprice has HDMI switchers -- manual and with remotes at a low price.

The image is there and I believe it is in stock.

What's the equalizer function? Some switches offer that I see. Is it for the sound to remain the same level when switching between different sources?

What's the equalizer function? Some switches offer that I see. Is it for the sound to remain the same level when switching between different sources?
Equalizer increases the signal level for longer distance transmision.

I have updated my first post for the link for that first low cost 2 way combo HDMI switch.

Centronics has come out with two new switches. The HS-310 (3x1) and the HS510 (5x1). $30 & $40 (dealer cost) respectively.
These are HDMI only and have the connectors only the rear panel (instead of the sides).

Monoprice has HDMI switchers -- manual and with remotes at a low price.

The image is there and I believe it is in stock.

Why are we talking about a sub-$100.00 manual switch? I bought one at Monoprice for sub-$30.00. It works flawlessly. You need to get off your couch and walk accross the room to push the switch (what a crime to save a few bucks! :) ). Rather than that it is beautiful.

Why are we talking about a sub-$100.00 manual switch? I bought one at Monoprice for sub-$30.00. It works flawlessly. You need to get off your couch and walk accross the room to push the switch (what a crime to save a few bucks! :) ). Rather than that it is beautiful.

or pay $30 more to save ur butt lol :D

Is it possible for the extra distance to the switch and then the display ADD to any pixelization you get from a certain broadcast? Or is that all from the satellite receiver for example?

Is it possible for the extra distance to the switch and then the display ADD to any pixelization you get from a certain broadcast? Or is that all from the satellite receiver for example?
HDMI switches don't add pixelation. That is from your broadcast.

If you see sparkles, streaks, full static, loss of video, etc. then those are things that might be from a HDMI switch.

Grandbeing Technology supplies variey of HDMI switchers/splitters with low cost. Her switchers have remote and pre-emphasis and equalization function. selling price is lower than $50. (Three ports)

Grandbeing Technology supplies variey of HDMI switchers/splitters with low cost. Her switchers have remote and pre-emphasis and equalization function. selling price is lower than $50. (Three ports)

Went to her web site but don't see anything about cost or how to purchase. Since you have a price there must be someone selling them. Can you share a link to a reseller? Thanks.

I plan on buying the Onkyo 604 receiver. it only has 2 HDMI inputs and 1 HDMI output. My plan was to purchase a 5 x 1 HDMI switch from monoprice. I was planning on having all of my device feed into the switch then out of the switch into the 604 then from the 604 to my projector. This should allow me to keep the 604 on the same video/audio input and switch the different sources from the monoprice device. Does anyone have experience in doing this and will it work?

Theoretically it should work, but I saw some people saying they were having problems with 1080p through the Onkyo so if there are problems try debugging each component separately.

Are there any boxes that support both HDMI and Component switching all in one?

I'm hoping to find a switch like the Octava, in other words a switch that switches not only hdmi, but also switches digital audio at the same time.

The Octava has 4 inputs and it seems like it's about $275...

Does anyone know of a similar switch that has only 2 inputs and costs less?

Thanks!

To resurrect an old thread ....

Parts Express is offering a Terk HDMI-21 2-In 1-Out Automatic HDMI Switcher. Passes 1080p.

Anyone have any experience with these? I searched the forums and haven't gotten any hits.

I just got a great 5/1 at mono price works and looks great

Any one know of this product?

HDMI Selector Premium (Snakebyte)

Saw it here: http://www.wog.ch/extern.cfm/product/P3-14825/affiliate/14

It is 1.3 compliant and switches both HDMI and optical (useful for me as I currently don't have a HDMI recevier or decoder and the switch is the video to a Projector.

I don't understand why a version of HDMI is not available with separate Audio & Video!!!

I don't understand why a version of HDMI is not available with separate Audio & Video!!!

?? Not exactly sure what you mean here. ??

In my current setup (and probably for a long time to come) I only use the HDMI cable for Video (direct ot the Projector).

i.e. as my receiver is too old to support HDMI then the audio connections are done using optical or coaxial.

My current setup has a High-End receiver (that does not include amps) from Denon and 2 separate Amps (one 2-channel the other 3 channel) and the front speakers are bi-wired.

To replace this setup just to have HDMI switching is not somehting I want to consider at the moment.

Therefore it is a waste having both Audio and video in one cable in my setup and in many instances where people are using projectors and maybe with long cable runs as 'dedicated' video cable would be a nice option to have (and DVI is not a solution for this, as this is going backwards in technology).

For the time being I will buy a HDMI switch to extend the life of my current setup. Especially as the Audio quality is still very good when compared to possible replacement products.

Hdmi is high rez audio/ high rez vidio in one cable, not just video. You don't have to take advantage of the audio if you don't want to. Not sure waht your complaint is here. Do you think that you are over paying because you are not using the audio? The "mainstream" aspect of using the HDMI interface is to use both audio and video through that interface and is what most people are doing. Therefore creating an interface for "video only" would cater to the minority and not the majority, thus not allowing the manufacturers to make mass quantities of that product, but only smaller quantities. This would make the price actually higher, because the more they make, the cheaper it gets, thus passing the savings on to the consumer. So it's not really a waste, it's just more universal to the demand of the consumer.
You don't have to use the audio aspect of the switcher or the cables. Just be happy that it's there for when you do need it.

Yes I agree it's a great format and major improvement over the Scart connector. Just would be nice to be able to split the Audio and video, or more useful would be to have a video only cable.

The cable lengths are limited, but have been improved by using a heavy gauge cable, but then these heavier gauge cables are stiffer.

For 'Custom' installs which I get involved in from time to time, it is sometiems necessary to have long cable runs to the projector through conduit. Therefore if a cable were available in a Vidoe only version, the cable could have less cables internally and therefore be thinner, or would allow for a heavier gauge for longer cabel runs. At the end of the day the limiting factor when running cables in conduit is the connector, which the only solution I could thing of (short of cutting hte connector off and trying to piece the cable back together) would be to have a round style connector that plugs into a HDMI adaptor. In a couple of installations we have run HDMI over Cat5 as the cable run would have been too long without upgrading the current conduit. Cat5 is great as you can add the connectors after you have run the cable.

Why are we talking about a sub-$100.00 manual switch? I bought one at Monoprice for sub-$30.00. It works flawlessly. You need to get off your couch and walk accross the room to push the switch (what a crime to save a few bucks! :) ). Rather than that it is beautiful.

A cool thing I found out about this switch was that when I got my Onkyo I wanted to send the signal to two HDTVs. I was able to reverse the switch and use it as one in and two out.

hdtv supply has a 4x2 auto-sensing 1.3 hdmi matrix switch for <$150. I bought one and get it Tuesday

hdtv supply has a 4x2 auto-sensing 1.3 hdmi matrix switch for <$150. I bought one and get it Tuesday

I am looking for one that has 2 outputs, need be able to switch my DirecTV DVR from my HT to my Office. I never have two running at the same time so do they make one with 2 outputs? Anyone has a link please post... Thanks for any help!


Thank God for Google..... Is this the one you got?


http://www.hdtvsupply.com/hdmi-matrix-switch.html

I am looking for one that has 2 outputs, need be able to switch my DirecTV DVR from my HT to my Office. I never have two running at the same time so do they make one with 2 outputs? Anyone has a link please post... Thanks for any help!


Thank God for Google..... Is this the one you got?


http://www.hdtvsupply.com/hdmi-matrix-switch.html

Check monoprice.com, I think they may carry one now that has 2 outputs.

Has anyone used any of the this switch from Firefold? They are local to me so I would rather get it from them than on Monoprice if it's good. Also I need the switch to be able to be controlled by my Harmony 880.

http://www.firefold.com/Products/3X1-HDMI-Switch-wRemote__HDMI-3SWITCH.aspx

Also, would the IOGEAR 4 port automatic switch be better at CC? Just throwing out ideas.

Anyone used this one?

http://cgi.*********/HDMI-Switch-Splitter-3x2-Mirror-3-in-2-same-video-out_W0QQitemZ270213424519QQihZ017QQcategoryZ73390QQrdZ1QQssP ageNameZWD1VQQ_trksidZp1638.m118.l1247QQcmdZViewItem

Sorry to bring up an old thread. I need someone to verify that this will work with my setup.

In 2005 I purchased an RCA 52" HDTV model number HD52W59. It only has a DVI input. I also recently purchased a Philips DVP5990 DVD player with HDMI output. I just ordered a HDMI to DVI cable from monoprice to connect the HDMI DVD player to my DVI TV. I may at a later date connect my HD cable box via HDMI instead of component or add an HDMI blueray or other HDMI device.

Can I connect the output of two HDMI devices including audio via the cable to my one HDTV DVI input port with seperate RCA audio? Will the switch allow me to do this? See diagram below.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/HDTVSetup.jpg

http://www.markertek.com/productImage/BIG/DVIAB-1.JPG

http://www.markertek.com/SearchProduct.asp?item=DVIAB%2D1&off=0&sort=prod&skuonly=0&search=hdas%2D100g&pagesize=20

Thank you

Sorry to bring up an old thread. I need someone to verify that this will work with my setup.

In 2005 I purchased an RCA 52" HDTV model number HD52W59. It only has a DVI input. I also have a Philips DVP5990 dvd player with HDMI output. I just ordered a HDMI to DVI cable from monoprice to connect the HDMI DVD player to my DVI TV. I may at a later date connect my HD cable box via HDMI instead of component or add an HDMI blueray or other HDMI device.

Can I connect the output of two HDMI devices including audio via the cable to my one HDTV DVI input port with seperate RCA audio?

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/HDTVSetup.jpg

http://www.markertek.com/productImage/BIG/DVIAB-1.JPG


No. What you are trying to do is not possible with an hdmi switcher. YOu are asking the switcher to take the audio from the hdmi input and convert it to stereo analog over the rca outputs.
The only way to accoplish this, is IF your source device (IE: dvd player, stb, ect...) will allow you to output hdmi for video AND stereo analog for audio at the same time.
If that is possible, then you will have to connect an hdmi cable AND a stereo analog cable form each device to the switcher. Then one hdmi and on stereo anlog cabl OUT from the switcher to your tv.

Also, in order for you to properly convert your hdmi connection to a dvi connection, your tv must be able to handle the hdcp that comes along with the hdmi interface. If your tv is not HDCP compliant, then you are screwed. You will then have to use component instead of hdmi, and that connection may be limited to lower resolution, again because of hdcp.
If that again causes too many problems, the only solution is to buy a new display with hdmi.