the manual did not show my problem so I did call Mit. he was not sure but stated that it more that likely the lamp from his experience. I remember reading somewhere on this site take lamp out and try to reseat it. So I did that and plug it back in turn power on and finally got the green status light and the projector has so far worked. I check my lamp hour and only had 301 hour on it. thanks for your response.

I have been using my HC3000 for a few weeks now and have not calibrated the picture yet. While I think the picture looks great, I have noticed at times 3 very faint gray vertical bands in the center of the screen, several inches in diameter, that run top to bottom of the picture. It is most noticable when I am watching a movie and can see the bands in the in the top and bottom movie bars.

I know that vertical bvanding is suppose to be an LCD effect so I am not sure what I am seeing. Has anyone experienced this? If so, what am I seeing and how do I correct it?

Thanks for any feedback.

Hi, did a search of this thread and came up empty, searching to see if their has been a firmware update on the Mits. 3000? Has their been one??? :D if so would appreciate it if someone can direct me to it.

Thanks in advance.

Hello, any response? Little help here. :eek:

Anyone have recomendations on a solid/inexpensive source for a replacement lamp?

Hi, did a search of this thread and came up empty, searching to see if their has been a firmware update on the Mits. 3000? Has their been one??? :D if so would appreciate it if someone can direct me to it.

Thanks in advance.

I do not believe Mitsubishi has ever released a consumer installable updated FW.

Thanks, Kev.

I finally got around to calibrating my HC3000 with the HD version of DVE. The first thing I noticed was something is not passing blacker than black correctly. I have an HD-A2 that previously was connected to a Toshiba RP DLP, and the blacker than black was passed.

Does the HC3000 in general have issues with blacker than black? Or is this an issue on the A2 side?

I finally got around to calibrating my HC3000 with the HD version of DVE. The first thing I noticed was something is not passing blacker than black correctly. I have an HD-A2 that previously was connected to a Toshiba RP DLP, and the blacker than black was passed.

Does the HC3000 in general have issues with blacker than black? Or is this an issue on the A2 side?

I find that its source device dependent. No BTB via my HD-A1. BTB with my DVD-3930ci however.

Thanks Kevin. I currently have the A2 connected via HDMI through a Onkyo tx-sr605. I am going to try a direct connection between the A2 and the 3000 to see if that fixes it.

Hi, did a search of this thread and came up empty, searching to see if their has been a firmware update on the Mits. 3000? Has their been one??? :D if so would appreciate it if someone can direct me to it.

Thanks in advance.

There are different versions of the firmware, but they are not user upgradeable. Mine was upgraded when I sent it in for service.

OK, I am trying to research the black crush issue I am seeing with my HD-A2/HC3000. From what I have read in an A2 thread, the A2 is using YCbCr (studio levels) for HDMI output. Is there a setting in one of the HC3000 menus where you can set the HDMI input to 'studio' or 'PC' levels? My current theory is the HC3000 is using PC levels and thus clipping the below black information.

OK, I am trying to research the black crush issue I am seeing with my HD-A2/HC3000. From what I have read in an A2 thread, the A2 is using YCbCr (studio levels) for HDMI output. Is there a setting in one of the HC3000 menus where you can set the HDMI input to 'studio' or 'PC' levels? My current theory is the HC3000 is using PC levels and thus clipping the below black information.

Not from the user menu. And to my knowledge, no one has every revealed what the code sequence is (from the remote or the PJ controls) to get to the service menu. Its possible that you can't get to the SM without software and a PC. In a prior post someone mentioned that you can get a "Service CD" (part # S/M WD2000 ) from Mitsubishi parts at 1 888 307-8404. Cost is $25. With the CD and a laptop, you can adjust the projector via the serial port. I never ventured since I ended with an excellent calibration via just the user menu.

You hunch of it not decoding YCbCr properly via HDMI might be accurate.

From my own experience, with my Denon 2930, I can set it to output either RGB or YCbCr. For both settings, the Mits displays BTB and WTW. However, when displaying a Green Ramp with YCbCr, I get clipping at 80 IRE (and above) but not when outputting RGB. Also, Blue and Red Ramps display fine in either setting. So I leave it at RGB.

With the HD-A1 (which I believe is outputting YCbCr), I get no BTB or WTW. I get no black crush, so I simply set Black Level by adjusting brightness up until the point of dithering and then back down 1 click (no dithering). WTW I just ignore. Although I have the same issue with the Green Ramp, its not noticable on the Grey Ramp (since it only affects one of the primaries).

Kevin,

I to set the black level based on the point of no dither and the picture looks very good. I am trying to figure out the blacker than black issue just for the fun of it.

Kevin,

I to set the black level based on the point of no dither and the picture looks very good. I am trying to figure out the blacker than black issue just for the fun of it.

Yeah, I have the same disease... when it flairs up I remind myself to just get a life..... hmmm.... maybe its time I order that SM CD.... ;)

Hi Kevin

This is a bit of unusual question in regards to what are your settings on your Mits as per your calibration that you did on your set a few months ago, the reason is that a well known ISF calibrator was coming to my state the first 10 day’s in July and was scheduling an appointment with him to have my Mits and Tosh HD-DVD A1 calibrated , unfortunely for me he has reschedule his tour for the week of July 23-28 and I will be on vacation as previously planned, thus will not have the opportunity to meet him etc.

Do understand that every situation on front projector surroundings is different, such as ambient light and so on; I am just trying to get a starting point from some one and then calibrate my set from that point to my own surroundings.

Currently have just about every disk on calibration such as DVE and the latest release of HD-DVD by Joe Kane, and as you are aware the color and tint test pattern are thru the component cables vs. the hdmi cables.

Any input that you can give me would be greatly appreciated. :D

Ralph (zapper) ,

The best starting point is for each person to do their own calibration as there are far too many variables (just the lamp variables alone are drastic) .

I know people get irritated hearing this but it just happens to be the truth and it really is a mistake for people to simply 'plug-in' others calibration numbers and expect to have a calibrated image . Many times somebody else's numbers will make things much worse .

There are exceptions to this rule of course when the projector in question is spot on (D65) to begin with and specific numbers are given out from the manufacturer (much like what InFocus has done in the past) .

I know it can be an exercise in frustration to get a solid calibration with nothing but some discs but it honestly is the way to go if there is no other option ( proper calibration gear , ISF technician , etc. ) . Best thing to do is read up and have a wack at it , it's a learning process for sure ;) .

Best of Luck ,
--- Jason

Ralph,

I agree 100% with Jason. Nothing to add.

Why not just get an Eye-One colormeter, Getgray disc and HCFR? HCFR is easy to use and its REALLY easy to get a decent calibration via only the user menus of the HC3000. Besides, its fun and you'll get plenty of help from the forum members. It took me a few hours including the learning curve. Next time will probably take about 20 min.

So for $150 you can do your own calibration now. And then when your lamp ages or you get a new lamp or your PJ goes in for repair, you recalibrate at no additional cost.

That said, FWIW, here's my resulting settings for HDMI (I don't use component):

Gamma Cinema
Contrast -3
Brightness 2
Color Temp User
BC Off

Gamma User1
Reference Cinema
H 0
M 0
L 0

Color Temp User
Contrast R 0
Contrast G -14
Contrast B -10
Brightness R -2
Brightness G 0
Brightness B 0


KJ

Thanks Guy's

Will use kevin calibration just for a starting point to see if it makes a difference on my PJ and then go from their. :D

ok I've searched this thread using every combonation of words I can think of and cant find out if anyone has found the way to reset the lamp hours after a lamp change????

Per the Mits Website:

Plug in the power cord, turn on the lamp and reset the lamp operation time by holding down the left arrow, right arrow and power buttons on the control panel at the same time for about 3 seconds.

Its a mystery. Sometimes changing the refresh rate will cause it to reset to the default of 97% but I've found no consistency. There is a thread on this subject but no conclusions:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=841445

still no solution for this?

After owning my Mits 3000 since Christmas, I have just completed install into my newly buillt theater. I have one problem. I hope someone can advise.

I have a "smear" for lack of a precise word on the image. It is sort of like an s and located in the top left of the image about a foot from the edge and down about 6 inches from the top of the screen. On the screen it is about a foot long on my 102 inch screen. It only shows in black scenes and it displays as a medium gray "smear" with all the black around it. It is very annoying after waiting all this time.

Has anyone seen such a thing or have any idea what I might do to correct. I cleaned the lens to no avail.

Help.

Carl

Thanks Guy's

Will use kevin calibration just for a starting point to see if it makes a difference on my PJ and then go from their. :D

Well just reporting that kevins calibration made a heck of a improvement on my mits when watching regular dvd on my Tosh A1 HD Player but on HD video's the picture is to dark, on Mission Impossible 3 have to try King kong and it just dawn on me if the colors are still dark can alway's use the brilliant colors, to see if it makes a difference. :D

Kevin,

I to set the black level based on the point of no dither and the picture looks very good. I am trying to figure out the blacker than black issue just for the fun of it.

Just saw your message and am concerned since I have a Toshiba HD-A2 player and just ordered a Mitsu 3000U from ebay yesterday. Have you found a hardware limitation with the 3000U that will ultimately affect the black quality from the Toshiba player?

I haven't ever run a calibration disc before so what would you recommend me to buy? Thanks!

Just got a used one delivered today and noticed when I opened the iris via the remote; the plastic piece doesn't completely clear the lens (when looking inside) then looks like it gets stuck and skips (like it's missing a gear) It skips about 4-5 times before it stops. When it closes down it seems to also hit the limit but the motor keeps going for another 2 secs. Is this normal?

Does my Mitsubishi HC3000 always needs to be mounted very low OR very high in a room the keep the picture on the screen? I mean, in my setup shown in the picture and when I would choose the screen to be put and the blue #1, the projector would be mounted I think about exactely on the diagonal ceiling so that the lens will be pointed at the middle of the screen. Would this be a problem?

(http://img187.imageshack.us/my.php?image=htruimtekd2.jpg)

ps. For more info about my issue please see this topic also:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=884274

<a href="http://img453.imageshack.us/my.php?image=htruimtezq7.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img453.imageshack.us/img453/6931/htruimtezq7.th.jpg" border="0" alt="Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us" /></a>

[img=http://img453.imageshack.us/img453/6931/htruimtezq7.jpg] (http://imageshack.us)

[img=http://img453.imageshack.us/img453/6931/htruimtezq7.th.jpg] (http://img453.imageshack.us/my.php?image=htruimtezq7.jpg)

[IMG]http://img453.imageshack.us/img453/6931/htruimtezq7.th.jpg (http://img453.imageshack.us/my.php?image=htruimtezq7.jpg)

(http://img187.imageshack.us/my.php?image=htruimtekd2.jpg)

http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/4867/htruimtekd2.jpg

[IMG]http://img453.imageshack.us/img453/6931/htruimtezq7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img453.imageshack.us/img453/6931/htruimtezq7.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us"/></a><br/>Shot at 2007-08-02

Well just reporting that kevins calibration made a heck of a improvement on my mits when watching regular dvd on my Tosh A1 HD Player but on HD video's the picture is to dark, on Mission Impossible 3 have to try King kong and it just dawn on me if the colors are still dark can alway's use the brilliant colors, to see if it makes a difference. :D

Remember that you have user programmable presets on this machine. You can create one set for DVD and another for HD Cable. In fact you can create a number of settings and jump between them on this machine. One may be better for movies and another might work well for sports for instance.

This feature is also helpful when calibrating. You can have a reference setup on one preset and a test setup on another. Jump between them and see which you like the best. Copy the best settings to the master preset and repeat.

Just saw your message and am concerned since I have a Toshiba HD-A2 player and just ordered a Mitsu 3000U from ebay yesterday. Have you found a hardware limitation with the 3000U that will ultimately affect the black quality from the Toshiba player?

I haven't ever run a calibration disc before so what would you recommend me to buy? Thanks!

I was not able to get the "blacker than black" bar to show from the HD-DVD Digital Video Essentials (DVE) using the HD-A2. However the picture quality I see with the HC3000 and the HD-A2 is excellent. There is plenty of shadow detail in the image, so I think you will be very happy using this combination.

I was not able to get the "blacker than black" bar to show from the HD-DVD Digital Video Essentials (DVE) using the HD-A2. However the picture quality I see with the HC3000 and the HD-A2 is excellent. There is plenty of shadow detail in the image, so I think you will be very happy using this combination.

Thanks, tried and yes it works fine. Since nobody else answered my previous question can you help me out?

When I close my iris it almost seems like it gets stuck and slips teeth on the gear. You can notice it on the screen as the light intensity flickers for about 2 secs before the iris motor stops. You can even see it from the lens; the iris closes and skips for 2 secs. Does yours do the same or is something wrong with mine?

Thanks!

I have posted this question on the screen forum to no response.So I am hoping a Mits 3000 owner can help.
I am shooting an image from the Mits on to a 120" Highpower screen using the Toshiba XA2.The image is great except for one small annoyance.On fast panning shots, in the background of the image, I see a rippling effect,or a "wavey" look.It only appears in fast panning shots and only appears in the background.Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks.

Are any of you HC3000U owners thinking of buying a 1080p PJ? I've been on the fence, but this thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=767929) is pushing me toward "don't need it!" vs. this thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=856599) pushing me toward "get it!"

Believe the first thread unless you are less than 1.5x screen width seating distance. Ultimately you will go to 1080p, but some of us are waiting for that great bang for the buck 1080p, the HD80 is not it, but for $1500 now it maybe.

Because the HD80 is still $2,700 street price & the 720p-to-1080p PQ upgrade appears to be less than dramatic, I've been on the fence. Also, the HC3000U is a damn fine PJ & I've been very happy with it. But, with HD DVD & Blu-ray offering 1080p/24 content, I was wondering how much better the PQ might be w/a decent PJ able to handle it natively.

I'm satisfied with my 3000, will wait until the 1080P drops below $2,000 in a couple of years or less.:D

I have posted this question on the screen forum to no response.So I am hoping a Mits 3000 owner can help.
I am shooting an image from the Mits on to a 120" Highpower screen using the Toshiba XA2.The image is great except for one small annoyance.On fast panning shots, in the background of the image, I see a rippling effect,or a "wavey" look.It only appears in fast panning shots and only appears in the background.Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks.


Sounds like waves from the hP fabric. Only visible on panning.

I m having troubles with stutter for a long time now on my HTPC (see also this thread http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=923688). Yesterday a walked through the settings of my HC3000 for the 1000st time again and suddenly I saw a setting which never noticed me:

In the SIGNAL menu you can set VERTICAL SYNC to AUTO and OFF. He always has been on AUTO since I own the HC3000. Is there a change that turning this to OFF could solve the problem for me that I have for years now? (I haven t had time to test it). I ve read the manual and in the manual is only a statement:

Use to adjust the image when its motion doesn't run smoothly. Select AUTO
for normal use.

WHAT does this option EXACTLY DO with the image? (technical explanation)

Sorry if this has been addressed before, but is it possible to use this PJ for a CIH setup using the zoom method? I am looking a purchasing one and would like to have this answered before I do so. Thanks.

I have a "smear" for lack of a precise word on the image. It is sort of like an s and located in the top left of the image about a foot from the edge and down about 6 inches from the top of the screen. On the screen it is about a foot long on my 102 inch screen. It only shows in black scenes and it displays as a medium gray "smear" with all the black around it. It is very annoying after waiting all this time.

Carl

I have a similar issue. There is grayish area about a foot in diameter on left of the screen about at the center that can only be seen when displaying black. It's most apparent when the credits roll over a black screen at the end of a program, or during a fade to black, but it will occasionally become noticeable in dark areas in the picture as well. At first I thought it might be coming from some light leaking onto the screen from another source, but I've ruled that out.

This appeared after a few months of normal operation.

Cleaning the lens didn't solve this for me either. I'm guessing it's the result of some dust or other contamination inside the projector. I suppose I should pull the lamp and see if I can spot anything there at least.

Any thoughts on possible causes for this would be appreciated.

A good way to determine if you have dust blobs is to hold a piece of paper a foot or two in front of the lens while projecting a black image. They will be very easy to make out.

-Mike

Well, moving back to NYC so looks like I will have to sell my Mits. Won't really work in the apt. setting.

:(

Is the HC3000 a significant upgrade over the HD1000U when placed in a white room? Would the improved contrast be noticeable at all?

Just got a used one delivered today and noticed when I opened the iris via the remote; the plastic piece doesn't completely clear the lens (when looking inside) then looks like it gets stuck and skips (like it's missing a gear) It skips about 4-5 times before it stops. When it closes down it seems to also hit the limit but the motor keeps going for another 2 secs. Is this normal?

I had 3 HC3000's at the same time when I first got the 3000 and what you describe is normal for the Iris .

-- Jason

I have posted this question on the screen forum to no response.So I am hoping a Mits 3000 owner can help.
I am shooting an image from the Mits on to a 120" Highpower screen using the Toshiba XA2.The image is great except for one small annoyance.On fast panning shots, in the background of the image, I see a rippling effect,or a "wavey" look.It only appears in fast panning shots and only appears in the background.Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks.

Screen waves if it is a pulldown , or it could also be heat waves from the exhaust vent .

-- Jason

Sorry if this has been addressed before, but is it possible to use this PJ for a CIH setup using the zoom method? I am looking a purchasing one and would like to have this answered before I do so. Thanks.

It is possible but it is also tricky with the 3000 due to the way the image shifts when zooming . I would have to suggest a scaler if you really want to use an HC3000 with CIH .

-- Jason

I m having troubles with stutter for a long time now on my HTPC (see also this thread http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=923688). Yesterday a walked through the settings of my HC3000 for the 1000st time again and suddenly I saw a setting which never noticed me:

In the SIGNAL menu you can set VERTICAL SYNC to AUTO and OFF. He always has been on AUTO since I own the HC3000. Is there a change that turning this to OFF could solve the problem for me that I have for years now? (I haven t had time to test it). I ve read the manual and in the manual is only a statement:

Use to adjust the image when its motion doesn't run smoothly. Select AUTO
for normal use.

WHAT does this option EXACTLY DO with the image? (technical explanation)

It could certainly have an effect on your HTPC stutter but consider that your HTPC could also be the culprit ;) . HTPC's will usually stutter a bit with film unless you are running 48hz or 72hz but as far as I can tell the HC3000 does not adjust the colorwheel speed accordingly ( it will simply take the 48hz input and convert to 60hz ) .

-- Jason

I have a similar issue. There is grayish area about a foot in diameter on left of the screen about at the center that can only be seen when displaying black. It's most apparent when the credits roll over a black screen at the end of a program, or during a fade to black, but it will occasionally become noticeable in dark areas in the picture as well. At first I thought it might be coming from some light leaking onto the screen from another source, but I've ruled that out.

This appeared after a few months of normal operation.

Cleaning the lens didn't solve this for me either. I'm guessing it's the result of some dust or other contamination inside the projector. I suppose I should pull the lamp and see if I can spot anything there at least.

Any thoughts on possible causes for this would be appreciated.

It's a dust blob and the PJ has to be taken apart in order to remove it as it is inside the light engine . This can be done at home but it is a 'at your own risk' type of fix . If still under warranty then from what I have been told Mitsu will service this for you at no charge . I have a dust blob as well but I am waiting for my warranty to expire before I do it myself as I am very comfortable doing these types of CE repairs .

-- Jason

Well, moving back to NYC so looks like I will have to sell my Mits. Won't really work in the apt. setting.

:(

Bummer Dave !!!

I used mine in an apartment with a 120" HiPower for about a year and we loved it ;) . Still have the 3000 in a house and still love it :) (even though I was seconds from pulling the trigger on an Optoma HD80) .

-- Jason

Jason
Thanks for the input.I think I have isolated the problem; my ceiling fan !
paul

Is the HC3000 a significant upgrade over the HD1000U when placed in a white room? Would the improved contrast be noticeable at all?

Yes it would be obvious with good light control due to the Iris lending a hand and at the current price points I would suggest buying the HC3000 over the HD1000 (if you can find an HC3000) . Now if you already own the HD1000 then the difference might not be worthwhile unless you can get a decent resale on the HD1000 .

-- Jason

Jason
Thanks for the input.I think I have isolated the problem; my ceiling fan !
paul

LOL , np Paul ;) .

-- Jason

Bottom line – the HC3000 is really quite, I just had a bad unit.

But if you want the full story....

I recently purchased the HC3000 from amazon.com/electronicadirect.com (~$1100.00) but shortly after using the projector I noticed the color wheel was making a large amount of noise. I did some research on AVS but noticed that everyone talked about how quiet the projector was – a low 25db.

The color wheel was so loud that during a movie’s more quiet moment we had a hard time hearing any dialog. We contacted Mitsubishi and despite the long hold time we talked with a friendly customer service rep who said that we could return the product to electornicadirect and get a replacement (because we were within the 30 day Mitsubishi return period). Although we were outside of Electronica’s 15 day return policy they said as long as we had a Mitsubishi case number we could return the projector and they would send a replacement within 24-48 hrs. A few days later we had a new replacement – plugged it in and WOW – the projector really is quite – a nice whisper at 25dbs 

In conclusion, both Mitsubishi and Electronicadirect.com were delightful to deal with and provided a solution within 24hrs of contacting Mitsubishi. I would recommend the HC3000 as well as considering Electoronicadirect as the purchase point.

Hope this helps.

-Scott

Quote: It's a dust blob and the PJ has to be taken apart in order to remove it as it is inside the light engine . This can be done at home but it is a 'at your own risk' type of fix . If still under warranty then from what I have been told Mitsu will service this for you at no charge . I have a dust blob as well but I am waiting for my warranty to expire before I do it myself as I am very comfortable doing these types of CE repairs .

-- Jason

Quote: It's a dust blob and the PJ has to be taken apart in order to remove it as it is inside the light engine . This can be done at home but it is a 'at your own risk' type of fix . If still under warranty then from what I have been told Mitsu will service this for you at no charge . I have a dust blob as well but I am waiting for my warranty to expire before I do it myself as I am very comfortable doing these types of CE repairs .

-- Jason

After about two months, my "smear" ie, dust blob, just disappeared. Cool. I believe in Divine intervention, or just dumb luck. Either way, I'm happy.

Carl

Bummer Dave !!!

I used mine in an apartment with a 120" HiPower for about a year and we loved it ;) . Still have the 3000 in a house and still love it :) (even though I was seconds from pulling the trigger on an Optoma HD80) .

-- Jason

Hiya Jason! Happy TG!

Well, we're back and gonna keep the hc3000 after all! Now I have to ceiling mount. Anyone have any good advice? I am renting but have already put holes in the ceiling previously and I will just spackle when we eventually leave. I guess I need a good mount, (any suggs?) and a stud finder to find a stud/beam.

Anyone in NYC with experience wanna help? I'll do a quid pro quo.

Cheers! d

Did you have the Iris closed or opened during calibration n regular watching ???



Yes it would be obvious with good light control due to the Iris lending a hand and at the current price points I would suggest buying the HC3000 over the HD1000 (if you can find an HC3000) . Now if you already own the HD1000 then the difference might not be worthwhile unless you can get a decent resale on the HD1000 .

-- Jason

the hc3000 is still easily available, for about $1K

It's a dust blob and the PJ has to be taken apart in order to remove it as it is inside the light engine . This can be done at home but it is a 'at your own risk' type of fix . If still under warranty then from what I have been told Mitsu will service this for you at no charge . I have a dust blob as well but I am waiting for my warranty to expire before I do it myself as I am very comfortable doing these types of CE repairs .

-- Jason

Thanks for the confirmation. I also tried holding a piece of white paper about a foot from the lens while displaying a black screen as someone also suggested and the spot became very apparent. I'll have to debate the warranty vs DIY solution. It's not all that bad - but I tend to notice little stuff that most people don't. Such a burden.

Do you think pulling the lamp would expose the problem? Maybe enough to allow a blast of air to dislodge the blob?

John Kessler

I've been holding out for a 1080p but they really aren't bright enough to justify the expense for me...I just saw the 3000 at a local big box brick and mortar for $799...I'm tempted to get this and just table mount it until 1080p gets their business sorted. Any suggestions on table mounting one of these?

Due to the offset you will find it hard to do. I sent you a PM
Bob

Can the HC3000 take a 1080p signal over HDMI?

The reason I ask is, I'd rather feed it 1080p versus 1080i with my PS3 when concerning blu-ray.

I don't think so, but I'm feeding it 1080i and it looks even better than 1080p on my HD70 so I don't think you'll notice a difference.

Can the HC3000 take a 1080p signal over HDMI?

The reason I ask is, I'd rather feed it 1080p versus 1080i with my PS3 when concerning blu-ray.

The HC3000 can accept a 1080p signal but it does not scale it properly so that feature is pretty much null and void ;) .

--- Jason

So... it scales 1080i properly but not 1080p? Did I wake up in the twilight zone? :eek:

Due to the offset you will find it hard to do. I sent you a PM
Bob

Well, then I have a problem. The only place I can ceiling mount mine is at the back of an 18 ft. long room (high ceilings so offset not a problem) Problem is I have built-in bookcases at the front of my room and at 16:9 100" diagonal rectangle between them so that's about the biggest I can go without covering up the bookshelves. So I thought I'd table mount, except that for 92" it would need to be 10 feet back which is exactly where I sit and I don't have room to move my couch back 5 ft. to accommodate the pj. If anyone has a solution I'd greatly appreciate it (I'll even send you a Christmas card with money in it!)

Mooney, the pj is at the BB in N.Austin (least they had the tag, I didn't see the pj)...on BB.com store locator query (78729) and the correct on should come up...but don't buy it before I get there this morning.

It appears that a certain "blue-logo" retailer is going to discontinue the Mitsu HC 3000u, at least in St. Louis.

Yesterday I visited the local store during lunch and they had the projector marked down to $799. Unfortunately for me, they were already sold out, but I called another store who still had the display model and offered to sell it "open box."

About an hour later I was walking out of the store with essentially a brand new unit (never plugged in) for $615 including tax. :)


Jaygo

It appears that a certain "blue-logo" retailer is going to discontinue the Mitsu HC 3000u, at least in St. Louis.

Yesterday I visited the local store during lunch and they had the projector marked down to $799. Unfortunately for me, they were already sold out, but I called another store who still had the display model and offered to sell it "open box."

About an hour later I was walking out of the store with essentially a brand new unit (never plugged in) for $615 including tax. :)


Jaygo


I just looked in Northern Virginia and they looked all over every district in the US and they couldn't find stock anywhere. They did give me the 1500 for $899 even thought the sale was over yesterday. So good luck looking there for a 3000u

well I guess they didn't look very hard. They have one at my local best buy here in Macon, Ga. See if you can get it.

I will look. Thanks!

About an hour later I was walking out of the store with essentially a brand new unit (never plugged in) for $615 including tax. :)


Jaygo


That be the deal of the century. Invest another $150-ish for an Eye-one, HCFR and a calibration disc and for less than $800 you'll have an image that would require 3X that amount to beat it.

I think I may have found an open box locally. I am going there tonight to swap out my 1500 for it. what do you guys think of that swap? Is the 3000 sig better then the 1500?

You guys are lucky if you've found one, I live in NE Arkansas, no best buy stores around. Called every one in Arkansas, Memphis, and a few in Missouri...no one has one.

Finally found one in Little Rock, I'm going to drive up there tonight (2 hrs) and pick it up.

Went up to Little Rock last night and bought the hc3000 open box for $799, got it home and checked the hours...1400hrs!!

I called the manager over the home theater area and told him about it, and asked if there was any discount towards a bulb that we could work out...nope. So, it's going back...sigh...

There's no way I'm paying that much for a projector that the bulb could go out at any time. I can pick the hc3000 up for a couple hundred more new just about anywhere and it would cost $300-350 to get a new bulb! Plus it didn't come with a remote. So yeah, that sucked...

Sorry to hear that Blake. I ended up going to BB in Sterling VA and returning my 1500 and getting a 3000u openbox. The 1500 was $899 and the 3000u was $799 but open box was $680! NICE. I got it home, and noticed that it smelled like someone already let the smoke out. And it had a nice internal rattle. Pretty pissed. Plugged it in and it worked great. with only 4 hours on it. I figure for $680, if it lasts me long enough for the 1080's to come down then it is a tremendous success. I hope it doesn't blow up before that...nervous!

Andy

Hopefully it will work out for you Andy, that's a really good deal for only 4 hrs, that's about what I was hoping mine would have on it :| Plus, you'll have till Jan 31 to return it to BB, so if it messes up, surely it will do it before then.

I had the hc1500 before also, and sold it because I couldn't stand the crappy black levels, let me know if you see an improvement, I'm anxious to hear!

Went up to Little Rock last night and bought the hc3000 open box for $799, got it home and checked the hours...1400hrs!!

I called the manager over the home theater area and told him about it, and asked if there was any discount towards a bulb that we could work out...nope. So, it's going back...sigh...

There's no way I'm paying that much for a projector that the bulb could go out at any time. I can pick the hc3000 up for a couple hundred more new just about anywhere and it would cost $300-350 to get a new bulb! Plus it didn't come with a remote. So yeah, that sucked...

I just bought a hc300 for 799. got it home it works and looks great but I can,t find hrs meter where do you find it on the menu? thanks

Press the Up, Down, and Enter buttons on the top of the projector simultaneously.

How many hours did yours have?

How many hours did yours have?

It looks like 38h 30m I,m good THANKS

You guys are getting some unreal prices for a great projector , I paid almost 3 times the amount that you guys are discusing here and it has been a wonderful unit .

Best of Luck with those open box units , be confident , the Mitsu's are built really well !

--- Jason

It looks like 38h 30m I,m good THANKS

That's awesome man, you got a great deal! I tried the 3000 out tonight, and even without the iris closed (didn't have the remote, and for some reason my harmony universal remote didn't include the iris option with the codes, so I couldn't try it), and the old bulb, AND the 138" screen, the image was superb, plenty bright, and the black level was a whole level better than the hc1500. Too bad the bulb has 1400hrs on it, or I would definitely keep this one...oh well, at least I know which projector I want now, I just have to find one!

I just don't understand the "your screen is too big" crowd...time and time again I hear them say that screens larger than 100" are a bad idea and a 1000lumens projector will be too dim. I beg to differ. I've got a 138" diag matte screen, run the projector on low brightness and the bulb in low mode, and the picture is plenty bright...it was the same way with my H56 too. So those out there who want a bigger screen, don't be afraid to try it out. Granted, I do have a black room with complete light control, so that is something to keep in mind.

Anyway..the trip to LR wasn't a complete waste, I did pick up an open box Samsung BD-P1400 blu-ray player at bb for $229. Couple that with the Toshiba HD-A1 I bought from ebay the other day for $80 and I'm format-neutral for about $325! Can't beat that.

Hi Jason,

I am interested to know which is better(720P or 1080i) for the Mit., since I am using a PS3 n A2 for my HC3100. Also, when you did the picture calibration on your HC3000, did you leave the IRIS open or closed while doing it. Thanks.


The HC3000 can accept a 1080p signal but it does not scale it properly so that feature is pretty much null and void ;) .

--- Jason

Tonight I suddenly have some light blobs on my screen, I assume they're dust. If I change the focus, I can see them come in and out. They're not subtle, either, and very distracting on dark scenes.

My projector's still under warranty, so I assume I should just call Mitsubishi at the earliest opportunity, but if anyone else has any suggestions, I'd appreciate them :)

...and man, $799 for this projector is a steal. I got mine at almost twice that, and couldn't have been happier over the past 16 months :)

Looking to sell my hc3000 has 326 hours low lamp. PM if interested.

Thanks

Does anyone have ideas on solving a horizontal banding problem?
I see one thin magenta band that moves from bottom to top every 15 sec.
Projector ceiling mounted upside down.
Might get a bit worse the longer the HT is on.
Lamp is "approaching to shutdown" and I have a replacement ready. But I've seen these bands for months.
Brian

Just wondering if anyone with the 3000 has noticed that the dust filter does not get that dirty at all, or is it just my PJ? Had a Panny AE 500 and every 100 hours had to clean it? Think that I properly set the filter right on the 3000. The PJ is set up in the same place as was the AE500.:eek:

Saturday night @ BB I bought a Mitsi HC1500 for $699, it was a manager special. I was in a hurry and didn't realize until I got home that they gave me a Mitsi HC3000U by mistake. I believe the HC3000 is an older model and I was wondering if I should go back and get the HC1500 I actually was supposed to purchase? Which one is better projector? I was looking to upgrade to HD from my old Infocus 4805. Are either of the Mitsi's better than my 4805 and if so which? Thanks for any input.

Less lumens, controlled lighting, mainly movie watching, excellent black levels = hc3000

More lumens, Ambient light, sports, not so great blacks = hc1500

I would keep the hc3000, depending on your viewing conditions and whether you watch more movies in the dark or sports with a little light. I had the hc1500 and couldn't stand the gray blacks and washed out dark scenes, so I just bought a hc3000. I haven't got it set up correctly yet but I can already tell the black level will be much better.

saw a hc3000 at bustybuy last night in NOVA for 1500. :eek:

Which one. When I got mine, they said there was one in Tyson's and one in Mannassas. They are marked at $1500, but if you ask them to check the price, they will tell you it is $799. If it is "open" they will tell you to take another 15% off and that puts it at $680ish. I hope i don't get booted for all the pricing info?!?

Less lumens, controlled lighting, mainly movie watching, excellent black levels = hc3000

More lumens, Ambient light, sports, not so great blacks = hc1500

I would keep the hc3000, depending on your viewing conditions and whether you watch more movies in the dark or sports with a little light. I had the hc1500 and couldn't stand the gray blacks and washed out dark scenes, so I just bought a hc3000. I haven't got it set up correctly yet but I can already tell the black level will be much better.

I agree with Blake 100%, think that the 3000 is a better deal, to satisfy yourself compared both at BB site and at the Mits and go from there.

Got an open box special for 399. Just the projector. Everything else was missing. First thing I checked when I got it home was the hours. 32! Sweet. Used the power cord from my "now sitting on the sidelines" Benq PB6100, printed the manual off of the net and used my Sony commander remote to copy a friends codes from the HC 1500's remote which is essentially the same remote (at least the codes worked). When all is said and done I have a functionally complete HC 3000 for 4 and change!!!! I could skip across the East river. Well actually, I always could (NYC river joke) but now it's from the lightness in my heart.

Looking for a DIY solution to a new screen. Had a 3ft X 4ft artist canvas for the Benq. Want something just a little bit nicer.

Got an open box special for 399. Just the projector. Everything else was missing. First thing I checked when I got it home was the hours. 32! Sweet. Used the power cord from my "now sitting on the sidelines" Benq PB6100, printed the manual off of the net and used my Sony commander remote to copy a friends codes from the HC 1500's remote which is essentially the same remote (at least the codes worked). When all is said and done I have a functionally complete HC 3000 for 4 and change!!!! I could skip across the East river. Well actually, I always could (NYC river joke) but now it's from the lightness in my heart.

Looking for a DIY solution to a new screen. Had a 3ft X 4ft artist canvas for the Benq. Want something just a little bit nicer.

:eek: :eek: :eek:

And I about freaked when I saw one for $599 at a local BB , at $399 I would buy an extra , what a deal !!!

Truth is while I am very happy for you guys getting the deals that you are I still have this sinking feeling in my stomache that keeps reminding me of what I paid almost 2 years ago ;) .

--- Jason

I dont know if I could have afforded $2000 plus but I am a little jealous to know that you have been sitting on a projector with this kind of picture for two years. As with everything it is a trade-off. Not gonna lie though, I am stoked about getting it for half the price I paid for my Benq. Still trying to decide what kind of screen (DIY most likely) to build for it.

I dont know if I could have afforded $2000 plus but I am a little jealous to know that you have been sitting on a projector with this kind of picture for two years. As with everything it is a trade-off. Not gonna lie though, I am stoked about getting it for half the price I paid for my Benq. Still trying to decide what kind of screen (DIY most likely) to build for it.

congrats on the new projector :)

I've been using a DIY screen for a year and a half and it's been great. I used wilsonart laminate, some poplar boards from home depot, black velveteen, and a staple gun and made a great 116" screen for about $120.

I'm looking for one of these and so far I only found a couple, both open boxes, one $719 no remote, no cord, scratched up cosmetically, another ~$400 not sure of remote and cord but salesman saids he's pretty sure it doesn't work at all. If the lower price one comes with everything, is it worth it to grab it and send it in for warranty work? I believe open items still come with the standard warranty from the manufacturer.

Yep, Mits has good service just make sure the white enveolpe includes the blank registration / warranty card. Send it back and it will be like new.

Anyone know where I can find one? I'm trying my best to track one down and having no luck.

SixKiller are you using a white or grey color (assuming you have a Mitsu 3000 also). I will be using a much smaller screen (apt living!). I think I can get away with gray but not sure. My room is fairly dark when I watch movies but not pitch black. Thinking a screen size between 80 and 92.

I dont know if I could have afforded $2000 plus but I am a little jealous to know that you have been sitting on a projector with this kind of picture for two years. As with everything it is a trade-off. Not gonna lie though, I am stoked about getting it for half the price I paid for my Benq. Still trying to decide what kind of screen (DIY most likely) to build for it.


Wow, I'm with you. I finally opened up my HC3000 that I got @ BB last weekend and I'm watching the Orange bowl on a 100" screen in awesome HD. I thought my SP4805 (w/only 960 hrs) had a great picture but this just blows it away. I feel like a kid on Christmas morning. Now I need to figure out what the best settings are for this baby but I'm sure with all my new HC3000 AVS friends it's gonna be a nice experience.

I got one of these too and am blown away by it. Any advice on good settings?

I scoured this thread and many of the reviews that can be found on the equipment review sites. Got about four different "sets" of settings and tried them all. Kept the two that looked the best (very similar to one another) and used those as a starting point. Played around with them from there. The results are fine on my white artists canvas but i'll probably have to start over again when I make my next screen. Hopefully, i'll get the chance to start this weekend. Leaning towards one of the "easy" paint solutions on the DIY screen forum. Let me know if you can't find them, i'll check the computer I have my bookmarks on.

Is there anybody who can answer a stupid question for me:

On my HC3000's lamp meter, 3 of the lines are:

Set Time 390H 8M
Lamp Time Total 390H 8M
Lamp Time (low) 480H 26M

I get the hours/minutes part. What is "set time"? Also, how many hours does my lamp have on it? The total lamp time appears to be less than the low lamp time! And at what point is the projector going to insist on a new lamp (since the projector has been operated in a combination of low and standard lamp modes)?

Thanks
John

I scoured this thread and many of the reviews that can be found on the equipment review sites. Got about four different "sets" of settings and tried them all. Kept the two that looked the best (very similar to one another) and used those as a starting point. Played around with them from there. The results are fine on my white artists canvas but i'll probably have to start over again when I make my next screen. Hopefully, i'll get the chance to start this weekend. Leaning towards one of the "easy" paint solutions on the DIY screen forum. Let me know if you can't find them, i'll check the computer I have my bookmarks on.

What setting did you find to be the best?

Additional question regarding lamp hrs> Can you reset the lamp hrs? Wondering how legit claimed lamp hrs on used units are?

Bummer, none of the Bestbuys in my area have it (Chicago Area). Two stores were supposed to, but they did not find it ?!?!? I would like to get one in good shape with low hours. A warranty would be really nice too. I've seen them for sale used around 600. Is it worth taking the chance? Any deals to be had for around $800 online? The HC3000 sounds like exactly what I've been looking for at a great price, IF I could find one...

Have to turn on the projector to confirm that these are the numbers for Memory 2 which looks best to my untrained eye. My screen is small and white (primered artist canvas from pearl paint).

Gamma- Cinema
Contrast (-3)
Brightness (+2)
Color temp (user)/
Red Contrast (0)
Grn Contrast (-14)
Blu Contrast (-10)
Red Brightness (-2)
Grn Brightness (0)
Blu Brightness (0).
Overscan 100%

I toggle back and forth between brilliant color. Some movies seem better for it and some are still nice but a wee bit oversaturated "looking" (just my opinion).

On my screen the result of these settings appears similar to the out of the box setting until you toggle between them and then the differences jump out at you. Much more natural looking. If your screen is white, try it (a starting point if nothing else).

Wow. What software is it for the control ?

I created a quick (and very simple) Demo App that allows you to change the Contrast and Brightness via the RS232 Port.

Just unzip the 2 files, configure the COM1 Port (See below) and run the exe.

Configure COM1 before running the Demo!

On XP, Control Panel/System - Hardware Tab/Device Manager/Ports/Communications Port (COM1) - Port Settings Tab

Tested on XP, projector needs to be connected on COM1 (COM1 set to 9600,8,N,1,NO Flow Control), PRESS 'C' to change the Contrast and 'B' to change the Brightness (only values of 0-9 in this Demo). All this info is provided in the App. Of course, use the Serial Cable that came with your projector. :D

I'll be working on a full Control Application and/or a simple one to send your own codes/view confirmation and values. Suggestions welcome... :)

Mits HC3000-4900 RS232 Control Demo.zip
DOWNLOAD HERE:

Download Mits HC3000-4900 RS232 Control Demo.zip (http://host-a.net/turbe/Mits%20HC3000-4900%20RS232%20Control%20Demo.zip)


http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w288/THESoulPimp/RS232Demo.jpg

Is there anybody who can answer a stupid question for me:

On my HC3000's lamp meter, 3 of the lines are:

Set Time 390H 8M
Lamp Time Total 390H 8M
Lamp Time (low) 480H 26M

I get the hours/minutes part. What is "set time"? Also, how many hours does my lamp have on it? The total lamp time appears to be less than the low lamp time! And at what point is the projector going to insist on a new lamp (since the projector has been operated in a combination of low and standard lamp modes)?

Thanks
John
I have the same question. Maybe some one will take a shot at it.

Is there anybody who can answer a stupid question for me:

On my HC3000's lamp meter, 3 of the lines are:

Set Time 390H 8M
Lamp Time Total 390H 8M
Lamp Time (low) 480H 26M

I get the hours/minutes part. What is "set time"? Also, how many hours does my lamp have on it? The total lamp time appears to be less than the low lamp time! And at what point is the projector going to insist on a new lamp (since the projector has been operated in a combination of low and standard lamp modes)?

Thanks
John


The set Time is the time the projector has been used, wich is the total time of all the lamps used in the projector in standard mode.
The Time Total is the time the lamp has been used in standard mode plus the 20% of the time used in low mode.
The lamp is suposed to last at 3000H (low) or 2000H (standard).
As you can see the lamp can last about 20% more in low than in standard mode.

Federico

I'm going to be hunting for these in my area. What is the return policy? I've seen some people mention returning, but doesn't BB charge restocking fees?

I'm going to be hunting for these in my area. What is the return policy? I've seen some people mention returning, but doesn't BB charge restocking fees?

I had purchased my 2nd HC3000 from BB a few days ago (great price but the HC4900 is only +$407). It was an 'Open Box' but had everything. BB does have a 15% restock fee if the projector is opened by the customer. Since mine was already open, I verified with the Store Manager (and had him add this on my receipt along with his signature) that the restocking fee would not apply. He said it won't (14 days to return it does).

I probably will be keeping my HC4900 (I get it in on Thursday) so I will have no need for the HC3000. I do have several Members who have contacted me with their interest in it. I'm hoping someone can just meet me at BB and purchase it after I return it (or come to BB shortly after) if I decide to return it.

I had purchased my 2nd HC3000 from BB a few days ago (great price but the HC4900 is only +$407).

Open box HC4900 is a lot more rare than open box HC3000, apparently, so a better comparison is $800 to $1400, both non-open -- good enough for me to bite, especially since I think it will have significantly better blacks/contrast than the 4900.

I'm going to try to pick this up as my "stopgap" until prices on the HC6000 plummet (or similar). My only disappointment is the small zoom range won't let me do CIH, at least not without making a mount with 15 inches of forward-backward slide. Maybe I can use the 4805 for 16:9 and the 3000 for 2.35 :)

The set Time is the time the projector has been used, wich is the total time of all the lamps used in the projector in standard mode.
The Time Total is the time the lamp has been used in standard mode plus the 20% of the time used in low mode.
The lamp is suposed to last at 3000H (low) or 2000H (standard).
As you can see the lamp can last about 20% more in low than in standard mode.

Federico

So I assume the 'Set time' can't be cleared but the lamp hrs probably can be cleared?

Reason I ask is when checking out a used unit, wanna know if the owner can reset the lamp hrs and/or set time?

Has anyone noticed any type of flesh-tone problems with their unit? I don't know if I'm just imagining it, but I swear that people on mine look a little sick in most cases.

Has anyone noticed any type of flesh-tone problems with their unit? I don't know if I'm just imagining it, but I swear that people on mine look a little sick in most cases.

Did you calibrate?

Avia??

Did you calibrate?

Avia??

I've adjusted what I can, but the problem is that the HC3000 can't change that many things via an HDMI connection, such as color and tint. And I wouldn't even begin to know how to accurately set the gamma and RGB levels.

I've adjusted what I can, but the problem is that the HC3000 can't change that many things via an HDMI connection, such as color and tint. And I wouldn't even begin to know how to accurately set the gamma and RGB levels.

Well unfortunately part of owning a PJ is learning how to calibrate RGB grayscale with Avia, etc. PJ's generally just don't come out of the box calibrated and are very inconsistent. You could of gotten lucky with PJ that came close enough, but more likely than not you'll have to calibrate the grayscale or use the component connection for color/tint (if those were enough to fix the issue).

Or you could hire a ISF or someone here on the forum to calibrate (I think Guitarman and/or Jason have a mail in service).

I too wish PJ's came calibrated out of the box (some do), but had to learn the hard way with my 1st PJ Optoma H30 which were all notoriously way off out of the box.

Trust me, I didn't enjoy having to do this or learning it, but at least now I can buy any PJ and calibrate it. And even though I can calibrate now, I'd still rather just have a perfect PJ come out of the box.....but it just ain't gonna happen since all Lamps are different.

Also, if you're PJ is new you'll usually want to wait 100 lamp hrs before you do a in depth calibrations.

just got mine setup last night and it looks great. However, I felt like my eyes were hurting and I couldn't focus on everything. I was really bothered when it was a whole pan across. I couldn't see any RBE. After 10 mins or so I think I just got used to it and I didn't really notice it any more. I am projecting a 92" shot on a white sheet for now. I sit about 8 feet away. Could this be too big for me and I should prob go down to 88 or 84 or 82? Any other thoughts? The colors look good but I'm sure it needs to be calibrated. Will do that soon enough. Thanks in advance.

Andy

Is there a 'dust blob' removal guide anywhere for the HC3000? I've had mine about 1 year now and just noticed one the other day during the credits of a movie. It isn't bothering me right now, but I was curious as to what is involved.

Is there a 'dust blob' removal guide anywhere for the HC3000? I've had mine about 1 year now and just noticed one the other day during the credits of a movie. It isn't bothering me right now, but I was curious as to what is involved.

I just cleaned mine using the Cine4home website as a guide (thanks dagamepimp) It was fairly simple, just take it apart piece by piece and make sure not to touch it to static. Got to the light tunnel and used non-moisture spray and voila. It proably took about 35-45mins all together.

I'm actually selling it on ebay right now though because my fiance is bothered by the rainbows :( I loved the projector though and I know I will miss it when I have to switch.

Hi, Posted a question a few post ago, in reference to the Mits. 3000 if any one has noticed that the filter does not collect that much dust or is it my PJ only? so far no one answered that posting, so though of reposting and see if someone will reply something.

Had A Pannasonic PJ and every month or so the filter had to be cleaned, now the Mits is installed in the same location as the previous PJ and yet hardly no dust, seems strange that one PJ collected a lot more dust then the other, to me anyway's.

Does your Mits collect alot of dust in the filter? or did I somehow put the filter on backwards.:D

zapper ,

The Mitsu does not collect much dust , it has a very effective cooling design ;) .

--- Jason

zapper ,

The Mitsu does not collect much dust , it has a very effective cooling design ;) .

--- Jason


Thanks, for the response thoght that it was my PJ.

I've had the HC3000 for maybe two years? at this point and have loved it every minute. Recently added a BD/HD combo drive to the HTPC and now I'm happier than ever! Or, at least, I was until I started getting this bad flicker... The brighter the screen (like a fullscreen internet explorer window shows it very obviously), the more noticeable it is. It never happens in low bulb mode, only high. And if it's doing it really badly and I switch to low and then back to high, it goes away, at least for a while (usually until the next time I power the PJ on, but sometimes comes back within an hour). I found threads where other people had this problem but it seems that they solved it by just returning it since they had just bought it. Mine definitely didn't do this when new. Now it has about 400 hours on it.

Anyway, just wondering if anybody has actually had this problem and fixed it (either themselves or by sending it in to Mits)? If there was a cost involved, please indicate how much it was to fix. If I'm going to have to spend a bunch it might push me into an HC4900 :)

Thanks
Jeff

Dang, no Best Buy within 50 miles has any. Though they still all have the display shell on the shelf.

My HC3000 is going back to BB, I'm keeping the HC4900! :D

Managed to find one open-box for $680. Down+Up+Enter showed total hours at 2 minutes!

One thing -- the remote doesn't have the Iris button. My Harmony Remote, while it loaded the commands, also didn't include one for Iris. So, umm...how do I close or open the iris?

Managed to find one open-box for $680. Down+Up+Enter showed total hours at 2 minutes!

One thing -- the remote doesn't have the Iris button. My Harmony Remote, while it loaded the commands, also didn't include one for Iris. So, umm...how do I close or open the iris?


I have a Mits HC3000 and the Iris button is on the third row, right button. All it does is either open the iris for a brighter image or close it to enhance black level.

I know -- my remote doesn't have it. It must be a remote from a different model or something. There is no button at all in the spot you mention (where the manual shows the Iris button).

I know -- my remote doesn't have it. It must be a remote from a different model or something. There is no button at all in the spot you mention (where the manual shows the Iris button).

That's weird... I bought my Mits HC3000 about 18 months ago. Perhaps others will chime in and clarify if there was a change or modification in the remote.

My HC3000 is going back to BB, I'm keeping the HC4900! :D

Resolution over CR , it's a choice many have to make (it was the same for many coming form the InFocus 4805) ;) .

--- Jason

I know -- my remote doesn't have it. It must be a remote from a different model or something. There is no button at all in the spot you mention (where the manual shows the Iris button).

Probably an HD1000 or HC1500 remote . I would contact Mitsubishi , I bet they can get you the right remote for a minimal charge (or maybe even free) .

--- Jason

Man, I think someone pulled a switcheroo. The S/W version shows as 2.00 HD1000. If it's the 1000, that would explain why there's no Iris button or Iris option in the menu. It's odd because the manufacturer label on the PJ says 3000 and the serial number matches that on the box.

what color is the case, light grey or dark grey/almost black?

Dark grey.

cuttard, my HD1000u is also dark grey. I hope they didn't dupe you and sell you a 1000 model but saying it's a 3000. :(

I see the 1500 is this color and the 3000 is light...Good thing I can return it, at least.

God damn it. I put about 100 miles on the car looking for this, since the Best Buys all said they didn't have them (though some showed as in stock) and I didn't trust them.

Back to the 4805 it is, I guess. Or maybe I should just keep it, I'm getting kind of tired of the hassle and really just want to watch movies :(

it should have hmdi...mine does. weird.

Does the serial number match the serial number on the HC3000 box?

Both the HC3000 I had over a year ago and the one I have here now are light gray...

You could drive to my local Best Buy (Washington State).. :)


Good thing I can return it, at least

They're going to check it and think you switched it, you will be screwed.. :D j/k

It does have HDMI, I spoke too soon.

Turbe -- yeah, the serial number matches the box. If someone swapped them, they did a very good job -- no sign of tampering at all on the label. And I'm not sure why they'd have switched anyway -- the 1500 is $999 at Best Buy, so it's more expensive. Maybe it was just a factory mistake.

Hope you get it worked out cuttard. I will add that the 1000u does put out a rather nice image. Looks fabulous with HD DVD, Blu-ray, and HDTV programming. I'm sure the 3000 excells at this as well but has reported better black levels.

Yeah, whatever this is looks pretty good. Contrast and blacks are definitely less distracting than the 4900's that I sold and seem to be at least comparable to the 4805's (I can't do side-by-side comparisons with this one). Doesn't seem to be the light cannon it's made out to be, though -- the brightness hasn't struck me as anything remarkable.

SSPC v1.2 is now available for Download. v1.2 is the first version that has several PQ controls on one page for easy projector/display calibration.

NOTE: SSPC was developed and tested on Windows XP (Support for Vista is not confirmed).

v1.2 - 01/27/2008
+Added Internal PQ Calibration Control Support for Mitsubishi Projectors (tested on HC3000, HC4900*).
+Added Serial Communication Error Handling
+Several Internal Code Changes.
*HC1500, HC5000 and HC6000 should work as well (and other Mitsubishi Models or Projectors that support their Serial Codes).

Download Link is available HERE IN THIS THREAD (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=977617):


http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w288/THESoulPimp/SSPC/SSPC-Main-v1-2.jpg


Enjoy

-Shawn

Can anyone tell me if there is a noticable difference between HDMI and Component via PS3 (Blu-ray viewing) for the HC3000? I just got the PS3 today and need to order HDMI (Monoprice) or use my current component cables (Blue jeans). I already have VGA (monoprice) running for the Xbox 360 (no HD DVD drive) that was bought before the hdmi versions were out and component to a Zenith dvb318 dvd player. I searched and saw a couple of comments about more settings being available with component and 1:1 via hdmi. I dont have the experience that you guys have with the pj so your answers and opinions would be grealty appreciated.

If you want to up convert standard DVDs to 720p or 1080i you have to use HDMI with the PS3. It's that way with most if not all of the HDDVD and BLU-ray players. Just another case of "the man" keeping us down.

bguzman

I googled earlier and got a yes answer on component upconversion from the ask.yahoo site. I googled more and got your answer so off to Monoprice I go. Thanks for the response.

Finally found an HC3000 at Best Buy, new in box. Took dozens of phone calls and half a dozen trips to various stores, but the sweetness is now mine.

Watched a movie immediately after mounting and calibrating and FINALLY I was able to completely enjoy a movie without being distracted by shortcomings of the projector. With the 4805 it was the low resolution, screendoor, and lately the un-glued light tunnel yellow stripe down the side; with my brief stint with the HC4900 it was the horrible contrast/black level. Tonight the only times I was distracted from the movie were when I was marveling over the picture. What a great projector, especially for $799.

Finally found an HC3000 at Best Buy, new in box. Took dozens of phone calls and half a dozen trips to various stores, but the sweetness is now mine.

Watched a movie immediately after mounting and calibrating and FINALLY I was able to completely enjoy a movie without being distracted by shortcomings of the projector. With the 4805 it was the low resolution, screendoor, and lately the un-glued light tunnel yellow stripe down the side; with my brief stint with the HC4900 it was the horrible contrast/black level. Tonight the only times I was distracted from the movie were when I was marveling over the picture. What a great projector, especially for $799.


Lucky you! I paid $1700 for mine 18 months ago! :eek: Nevertheless, I still love this projector!

By the way, thanks to Pameredith for mentioning Manassas and Tysons Corner VA. In all my calls over the last month I kept telling them to check the inventories for MD, DC and VA stores and neither of those two ever came up. I tried one last time today after spotting that post; Manassas had none but Tyson's Corner did.

Tenleytown has a display 3000, no cord/etc. The idiot I talked to would not even give me the 15% open-box discount, much less the $399 out-the-door price some people were getting for bare units. To top it off, I had him plug it in and it had 873 hours on it. Good luck to the Best Buy morons selling that one. Of course since the clerks I spoke to on the phone had insisted up and down that they didn't have it and were no longer selling it, I guess they aren't interested in making sales anyway.

you're welcome. My buddy found one in Germantown last weekend, Open Box and they wouldn't budge off of $1299. BB guy said that MD and VA stores could be set up differently. Whatever. I told my buddy to talk to the manager and see what they could do. I haven't heard back so either, buddy hasn't stopped watching movies yet or buddy is in jail for murder after going insane dealing with BB smart folk.

$1299 is just ridiculous. The nationwide clearance price is $799. I even called around while my band was on tour last week and that was the price everywhere.

I wouldn't recommend your friend buy that Germantown one, though. They didn't have one before, which means that is almost certainly the one I returned there two weeks ago -- the open box HC3000 I bought at Pentagon City that turned out to be an HC1500 in the box. I only paid $680 for it and it only had 4 minutes on the lamp. If he wants a 1500, that is still a good price if he can get the real open-box/clearance price, though by the time I returned it it had more like 40 hours on the lamp :)

I'm buying on Monday, its either the HC1500 or the HC3000 I think I can find them as a pick'em for price. Does the HC3000 have better deintetlacing chips in it or are they the same. I take it the HC3000 with a 6seg color wheel has slightly less dithering than a HC1500. The HC3000 has a two year warranty vs 1 for the HC1500, Supposedly the DLP chip in the HC3000 is .7 inch while the HC1500 is .6 inch and maybe its a micro sharper when focused. It's simple Same price - which is the better projector. HDTV = 80% of use DVD = 20% I have a simi light controlled room and want great blacks. I would like to get a greay screen though to improve daytime viewing. I'm not going to be picky about daytime viewing because once the image is ruined by ambient light then theres no reason to dilly dally over the contrast so I want it to look the best at night.

the HC3k has way better blacks thanks to its 6 segments wheel and its optical path.

it only had 4 minutes on the lamp.

this is actually pretty bad.
on the first start, you should run a pj for several hours so the mix within the lamp burner can melt and mix well.

4 minutes prolly shortened the life expectancy of your lamp a great deal.

I have the 3000 in a room which I can control lighting pretty well but not perfect. I have to have a black blind located behind the screen drawn and a side window blind (8 ft long 2 ft high facing south but no direct sunlight) is also mostly covered with a black blind. There is a 6 ft wide archway in the next room from one side which has some window lignt from that room. No problem. I do need some light on or the screen (a white one with about 1.2 gain) is too bright on the eyes. It is very nice in the daytime dispite the side archway to a lighted room. That archway is just benind me about even with the projector location. Love it. I doubt you will have any problem. The gray might be better than what I have since the projector is quite bright. I had an infocus and it had a vastly lower brightness visually. It needed almost total darkenss to look as good as the 3000 in a room with the lights on!

Well I guess it was meant to be, I walk into my local BB and ask do you have any HC3000U on clearance or open box. He said there is one in the entire state of Oklahoma and its in our conference room used when we need to show a group of employees something. His clearance price was $799, but he didn't have a remote, box or anything, just the PJ and the powercord. I thought about it and say well I don't know, I can't get anything off for it being a true open box? He said NOPE its to low at $799 to take anymore off. So I went on through out the store looking at other items, and wandered back buy it 10 minutes later, and he said I'll sell it to you for $599, I looked it over and it appears mint, even still has the plastic film over the emblem. I say DEAL I'll just buy a remote for $40, So I left with it for $650.51 with tax and I get my 2 year warranty plus the unit looks mint, he said they hardly ever turned it on. :) Is there any way for me to check the lamp hours? I can find just about everything in the menu system for the pj itself but can't find the lamp counter. Anyway I'm thrilled to say the least, it's quiet as can be, mint condition, 4000:1 contrast, 10bit image processing, 2 year warranty, I have a big grin on my face, I'm running a Bravo D1 at custom 720P setting and the brightness and contrast are right on the money other than maybe 1 click according to DVE disk. Anyway how do I tell the lamp hours.

There is some buttons on the bottom of the PJ, believe that there is 5 of them one facing Forward with a arrow and another straight back from that one with an arrow facing back you need to press both at the same time for a few seconds and the information with the lamp hours will appear on the screen, push the same buttons together to turn it off.

You might have to try it a few times to get it to go on.

Good luck, by the way nice buy.

OK got it up arrow+enter+down arrow at same time, and menu to exit. it says Total 1473 H 19M, Low 2208H 09M, is thats what is est of life left on the bulb? Because if it has ben used for 2208 in low mode, then this must be one bright PJ because the bulb is VERY BRIGHT imo, it still bright in full cinema low mode. But its cool if the bulb has been used quite a bit, as long as it gives me another 500-1000, nothing is appearing on screen to tell me the bulb is past the 2000H mark. I can image a brand new one it much be a torch.

btw: BB extended warranty's don't cover lamps do they?

lol, that sounds about right from a best buy employee! "We barely ever turned it on"

Yeah, you only watched 700 2hr movies on it...

The best buy people said the same thing to me when I bought a hc3000 from them. "It probably only has a few hours on it." Then I got it home and it had 1400 hrs on it... It went right back. 1400hrs on a 2000hr bulb is not cool if it goes out the next day/month. Then you have to add on another $300-400 to the price tag.

And no, I'm sure the extended warranty won't cover bulbs.

Yea if I add it up it not as good as it first seems, +$40 for remote +$300 for bulb + new one, How ever this bulb still should have maybe 1000 hours on it(thats worth $110, I do have a 30 day return but, Nothing beats $650 out of pocket instead of a $985 cheapest I could find it. Plus at 1400 hours the color wheel seems dead silent so I think it not ever going to cause problems. I'm happy with the deal, as long as the bulb hold out for the remaining 800. Plus I do get the two year warranty. One thing is for sure Im just going to enjoy it and not worry about it. The silence is so much nicer than my old SP4805.

The only reason I asked on that warranty is because you know how they make those thing sound "Bring it back for ANY reason it doesn't work" but yea bulb probably fall outside of that.

The bulb might last longer then you may think, besides look at the price you paid the worst that could happens is to buy a new bulb,then that PJ would last you forever.:D

Well I guess it was meant to be, I walk into my local BB and ask do you have any HC3000U on clearance or open box. He said there is one in the entire state of Oklahoma and its in our conference room used when we need to show a group of employees something. His clearance price was $799, but he didn't have a remote, box or anything, just the PJ and the powercord. I thought about it and say well I don't know, I can't get anything off for it being a true open box? He said NOPE its to low at $799 to take anymore off. So I went on through out the store looking at other items, and wandered back buy it 10 minutes later, and he said I'll sell it to you for $599, I looked it over and it appears mint, even still has the plastic film over the emblem.

I didn't realize that the HC3000U was still such a hot ticket. Cool! I've had mine in its original box for almost a year now if anyone is interested. I believe the lamp has approximately 1500 hours on it.

Rick

EDIT: HC3000 is sold

I just got a Mits HC3000 from a friend who upgraded. I've been reading the posts on this thread, wondering if I could get advice on setting up a system with the following parameters:

1. table mount for projector as ceiling mount is not an option.

2. cheap(er) screen. has the DIY Parkway worked for anyone with this machine, or do you recommend something specific? must be either a wall hanger or a free stander, no ceiling mount drop down option. image does not need to be bigger than 5 or 6 feet corner to corner diagonal.

3. someone to send machine out to for calibration or local service in the greater los angeles area.

thanks for any advice.

I just got a Mits HC3000 from a friend who upgraded. I've been reading the posts on this thread, wondering if I could get advice on setting up a system with the following parameters:

1. table mount for projector as ceiling mount is not an option.

2. cheap(er) screen. has the DIY Parkway worked for anyone with this machine, or do you recommend something specific? must be either a wall hanger or a free stander, no ceiling mount drop down option. image does not need to be bigger than 5 or 6 feet corner to corner diagonal.

3. someone to send machine out to for calibration or local service in the greater los angeles area.

thanks for any advice.

Hi Needmoregear,

1. Table mount might be ambitious as the offset angle for this PJ is rather steep. It may have to be a floor or near-floor mount, but that all depends on the height of your table.

2. My very first screen was DIY using firring wood from Home Depot, blackout cloth from JoAnn's Fabrics, and Black Velveteen from JoAnn's as well. Total Cost = ~$60. In the DIY screens section there were instructions, I'm not sure if my method was similar to the Parkway screen you're referring to as I'm not acquainted with that.

3. I can calibrate your projector for you if you like. You can send it to me if you wish (less expensive), but it'll also be less accurate as it won't reflect all the nuances of your environment, but instead will be calibrated accurately for *my* environment.

Rick

ender21, thanks for the killer deal you gave me, thats another thing I get a free calibration. I know its room specific but we also know even when you move a pj the levels coming from nice sources are set like PC levels vs Video levels vs Cinema levels and you can benefit from someone giving you their numbers that look good and are set right, I'm going to wright it all down before I change a single thing. Just with a nice calibration suggestion earlier in the thread on a used HC3000 made a world of difference, all of a sudden skin tones were very real looking and greens we're gone. That one I had version 4.2 or something firmware, I heard earlier versions tend to push blue a little to much, anyhow calibration always makes a better picture(obviously), I'm going to get me a optical piece of hardware to tell me what to set it at, I just cant pay more than $150 for all of it. But its a tool I want to own.

Just to let everybody know, I got to thinking about the BB deal, and took that baby back, No remote, Bulb 75% used, = $350 minimum real soon+ the $650 sticker, Nope. Not interested in paying $1k for a Open box from BB. I'll forgo the warranty and bought used and will roll the dice for a lot less used PJ in mint condition.

This is a shot in the dark, has any one that has the Mitts 3000 also have the Onkyo 705 connected with HDMI, if so under the AVR what type of setting did you set your Audio out to on the speakers with a PSP3 BR player, having a heck of a hard time for some reason or another to get sound out of the AVR.

Any replies would be appreciated.

Cleaned the lens on the PJ and got nothing but a smudge, what is the best solvent or cleaner for the lens?

Cleaned the lens on the PJ and got nothing but a smudge, what is the best solvent or cleaner for the lens?

I personally have the following:

Formula MC - http://www.2filter.com/prices/products/formulamc.html
Eclipse Optic Cleaner - http://www.2filter.com/prices/products/eclipse.html
PEC*PADs - On 2filter.com's website somewhere
LensPen - http://www.2filter.com/prices/products/lenspen.html





Shawn

I personally have the following:

Formula MC - http://www.2filter.com/prices/products/formulamc.html
Eclipse Optic Cleaner - http://www.2filter.com/prices/products/eclipse.html
PEC*PADs - On 2filter.com's website somewhere
LensPen - http://www.2filter.com/prices/products/lenspen.html

Shawn


I have the Nikon Lens pen, which I bought from Amazon, and it works great!:D

oh yeah ? I've never been lucky with the lens pen...they always leave streaks and the pen becomes useless after a few days :eek:

I use their mobiklear microfibre :
http://www.lenspen.com/?cPath=&products_id=MBK-1&tpid=146

best cloth I have, not a single streak!

and don't use solvents :eek:

Thanks for the replies, will pick one of them of course after viewing them all.

Eclipse Optic Cleaner is probably the best available... I start with Formula MC and only use Eclipse if the need arises.

I really don't use the Lenspen.

Bought a LensPen lens cleaner from a nearby camera shop, it worked on cleaning my lens for under $8.

Thanks anyways

Just wondering if any one that owns a HC3000 has thought of upgrading to a 4900 for the 1080P, or is it an upgrade????:D

Just wondering if any one that owns a HC3000 has thought of upgrading to a 4900 for the 1080P, or is it an upgrade????:D

I probably would not upgrade, I sold my original HC3000 when we sold our last house, purchased another from BB on clearance for $700.. had a chance to compare the HC4900 side by side and returned the HC3000... the HC4900 was only $400 more for me (got one of two HC4900 Open Box units with no hours on it)... Of course, I wasn't upgrading and most likely would not have even ordered the HC4900 if I couldn't return the 2nd HC3000.

I will say this, we immediately could see a difference with sources like BR (Panny BD30) or HD DVD (Toshiba XA2)..


Shawn

I probably would not upgrade, I sold my original HC3000 when we sold our last house, purchased another from BB on clearance for $700.. had a chance to compare the HC4900 side by side and returned the HC3000... the HC4900 was only $400 more for me (got one of two HC4900 Open Box units with no hours on it)... Of course, I wasn't upgrading and most likely would not have even ordered the HC4900 if I couldn't return the 2nd HC3000.

I will say this, we immediately could see a difference with sources like BR (Panny BD30) or HD DVD (Toshiba XA2)..


Shawn

Thanks Shawn, what you are saying that the difference is not that significant to go out and purchase the 4900, for the 1080P. Have BR and HD-DVD but would have to sell my 3000 for about $400 and purchase the 4900 bottom number would be $1,400 a cost about $1,000. Think that will probably wait until the 1080P PJ drops more on prices, by the way going from a DLP to a LCD could you tell the difference, any screen door effect?

I ordered the GetGray disc designed by a member here at AVS and I really like it, a lot better then DVE imo. My HC3000 fw ver. 3.2 seems dead on when set to user temp and all RGB are set to 0. I double checked it 5 times but contrast, brightness, and color sat are all a 0,0,0 at the cinema gamma and user color temp. I noticed the user color temp at 0,0,0, and 0,0,0 seems warmer than the 6500 or even the 5900 options. I figured the user temp would start at a base of one of the others temp and you could adjust it from there but it seems/is warmer than all other presets even though it's all 0's. If I have it professionally calibrated they are able to get to more micro adjustment in the machine right, they are not limited to what I am right? Kinda confusing since everyones says the Mits is off out of the box, either pushing green or blue depending on your firmware version. The GetGray disc has 5% ramps for RGB and none of them showed any clipping at either the dark end or bright end. The Blues where all very uniform and if I had something to adjust them I don't think I could get them any better and from my under standing blue is the tough one. Anyway does this sound right, I have a Bravo D1 doing 720P 2:2 on movies and 3:2 for GetGray, and not a single adjustment to be made. I did buy it from a ISF calibrator maybe he got deeper in the machine and set it perfectly before he sent it.

Other than resolution the 4900 is not really an upgrade from the HC3000 , it's more of a side-step . You can get more detail from 1080p sources but that does not mean the over-all image will be better (there many factors to consider) . If you want a true upgrade over the HC3000 image then you have to either buy used High End (like a Sharp 12k mk II or InFocus 7210) or spend around $3k for something new . I have gone through all the options already myself and there are trade-offs no matter which way you go unless cost is not a concern (like stepping up to the RS1/VW60 level) .

-- Jason

the BenQ W5K is a good upgrade, I think....when the fw issues will be fixed, that is :D

So how much of an upgrade is the SP7210, I had thought about this but figured it was to small of an upgrade to be worth it.

the BenQ W5K is a good upgrade, I think....when the fw issues will be fixed, that is :D

Yes the BenQ is a decent upgrade , I would agree .

-- Jason

So how much of an upgrade is the SP7210, I had thought about this but figured it was to small of an upgrade to be worth it.

The 7210 has better optics , brighter , higher CR due mainly to DC3 . However the 7210 is one of the louder PJ's out there , it takes some good fan speed to keep all those lumens under control ;) . If you can still find one of these for under $1k it's a steal , these units were about $8k when new (just like the Sharp 12k mkII) .

--- Jason

I have really enjoyed the quietness of the HC3000 compared to my old SP4805, it seems like a SP4805 with a 720P chip in it, also the HC3000 can focus better top to bottom then the SP4805. I had a shot at a SP7210 but at $1100 vs the much less and lower fan noise I opted for the HC3000. When I go to 1080P I'll look at Infocus again as long as it doesn't sound like a jet engine in the room. I'm still curious to see a SP7210 for myself. I may buy used they seem to be in the $700-$900 range.

Other than resolution the 4900 is not really an upgrade from the HC3000 , it's more of a side-step . You can get more detail from 1080p sources but that does not mean the over-all image will be better (there many factors to consider) . If you want a true upgrade over the HC3000 image then you have to either buy used High End (like a Sharp 12k mk II or InFocus 7210) or spend around $3k for something new . I have gone through all the options already myself and there are trade-offs no matter which way you go unless cost is not a concern (like stepping up to the RS1/VW60 level) .

-- Jason

Thanks Jason for your reply, more then likely will keep my 3000 the picture is nice either on a HD or on Direct TV, was just wondering and yes money is a certain issue to considered. Can't afford when a new toy comes around and just buying it for the heck if I do so will be broke. :D

Can the HC3000 do 3:3 @ 72hz. I have a Bravo D1 that I've tried with some numbers out of the SP4805 and Bravo D1 thread but it keeps defaulting back to 2:2 48hz that I tried on it and it did work. Because the PJ is designed for 3:2 od most DVD players it's produces a darker image at 2:2 seems like about 25% light reduction. I want to try 3:3 just to see how it looks. Looking in the manual it says 72hz at various resolutions but I can't get it to take on my machine but I may not be entering every parameter correct. Anyone know if it'll do 3:3 pulldown.

The Mitsu PJ's do not do 72Hz properly , to do this properly the colorwheel needs to change speeds and sync . The Mitsu's simply convert 72Hz to 60Hz and the colorwheel speed stays the same . I am the one that came up with the original 48Hz timings for the 4805 and the 4805 does it properly by re-syncing the colorwheel (as do most of the InFocus PJ's) .

-- Jason

I really like the concept of the shutter(s) feature to mask the image perfect to your screen, but when trying to set mine I noticed what seemed like the image compressing when I thought the shutter feature just turned off the outside lines of resolution that you chose to turn off and didn't compress the image, in other words if I'm getting 720P and use the shutter to turn off lines to fit the image exact to my screen, do I still get it 1:1 with the rest of the image as opposed to it being compressed and then scaling starts kinda like when over scan is at 97%. So I guess I have a basic question does using the shutter feature under user leave the image clean or does it compress the image to fit the shudder selections that you chose.?

Yes you are still pixel mapped when using the shutters , it just turns off those mirrors on the panel (there is no compression going on) . You are losing resolution however if you cut into your actual displayed image .

-- Jason

Great, I'll use them to match my 16/.098 screen that is slightly off, can you test yours DaGamePimp I could swear you can see it compress especially on the sides. I'll throw in a calibration disc and see if the entire image stays insight or gets cut off, its a great featur I just gotta have my pixel mapping like everyone else.

I use the shutters myself so I know there is NO compression ;) .

-- Jason

If EYE think EYE get your meaning, your talking about the shuTTers ;)


PS: Popped in GetGray and DUUUHHHHH No compression, don't know where I thought I saw it before, but anyhow now Im back to being set with a perfect blackout fit.

My HC3000 need a CC20R filter to get D65 color spec. If I don't used a filter I could
not increase Red Gain more than +1...after that it do not increased at all. I would like to
know if I the only one who use a color red filter on his HC3000....

Thanks

My HC3000 need a CC20R filter to get D65 color spec. If I don't used a filter I could
not increase Red Gain more than +1...after that it do not increased at all. I would like to
know if I the only one who use a color red filter on his HC3000....

Thanks

My old HC3000 was similar. I could only raise Red Gain by 1 or 2 steps. So I calibrated to D65 by lowering Green and Blue.

Rick

My old HC3000 was similar. I could only raise Red Gain by 1 or 2 steps. So I calibrated to D65 by lowering Green and Blue.

Rick

Thank you Rick,

I did a pretty impressive calibration with the filter ON. Do you knows if
the latest batch of HC3000 was OK for D65 Cal. without filter ???:o

Regards Stephen

Thank you Rick,

I did a pretty impressive calibration with the filter ON. Do you knows if
the latest batch of HC3000 was OK for D65 Cal. without filter ???:o

Regards Stephen

I don't know for sure but I doubt it. But hey if it worked for you that's great!

:)

Rick

My HC3000 has a near perfect D65 ISF calibration (BT.709) . Both the primaries and the secondaries are about as good as it gets and I am not using any lens filters .

-- Jason

filters will screw with your picture sharpness big time.

and I'm talking about multicoated optical filters such as Hoya Pro1/Heliopan 16 layers AR.........fuggedabout the cr*ppy plastic filters :eek:

a friend of mine just received a red filter from C4H for his Z2000..

he paid a hundred bucks, and it's low quality plastic.......this thing turns his Z2000 into a Z1 :D

lemme tell you that he's pretty p*ssed off at this point :D

filters will screw with your picture sharpness big time.

and I'm talking about multicoated optical filters such as Hoya Pro1/Heliopan 16 layers AR.........fuggedabout the cr*ppy plastic filters :eek:

a friend of mine just received a red filter from C4H for his Z2000..

he paid a hundred bucks, and it's low quality plastic.......this thing turns his Z2000 into a Z1 :D

lemme tell you that he's pretty p*ssed off at this point :D


Thank you all,

It is true that the filter reduced sharpness a bit.. I did notice that, by the way I used a Hoya filter made with glass.

I am looking to upgrade my DLP soon, any suggestions ???:confused:

benq w5k all the way :)

Anyone had to buy a new lamp yet? My 3000 is starting to flicker slightly. I assume it is the lamp on it's way out. I have 1349 hours on mine on low lamp setting.

The lamp flicker is a somewhat common issue and can usually be cured (at least for a good long while) by running the lamp in standard mode for several hours . There are other PJ's on the market with similar lamp issues and this generally works on many of those as well .

Best of Luck ,
-- Jason

Thanks Jason. I'll give it a shot.

Just in case, who has the most reasonable prices on replacement lamps?

Well I haven't been able to get my standard to not flicker, but the most I've left it in was 2-3 hours sometimes it get so bad I think its hurting the lamp but other times I do feel like it has improved. Generally it seems to get worst the longer I leave it on. I do think its better to let it boot on standard and leave it there that to be watching on low and then turn it up to standard. I'm dieing to get me a blu-ray player to really let this PJ shine. Its at least somewhat comforting to know that the standard mode flicker is not that uncommon, I was beginning to think I had a power supply problem that hit the Infocus brand a few years back. The Picture looks fabulous even on low, I'm going to burn in on Standard for about 24 hours to see if that cures it. If not I just rock and roll on low since it looks so good.

Anyone had to buy a new lamp yet? My 3000 is starting to flicker slightly. I assume it is the lamp on it's way out. I have 1349 hours on mine on low lamp setting.

I still haven't and we are at about 2700 hours! (always in low mode though...)
I think we are going to get a nw one since we are preparing to move.

We also are going to try to mount it. Previously we had in a cabinet a couple of feet off the floor but the baby is about to start walking.

Any opinions on this mount?
PMS Series Projector Wall Mount

http://www.mountdirect.com/PMS_Projector_Wall_Mount_p/pms_w.htm

We are thinking wall mounting in the back would be better than ceiling mounting as we are renting.

Also, anyone have a good, cheap replacement bulb link...?
I can get one shipped from Buy.com for $296 with a coupon.

Thanks!

some guy on another forum is running 6000H at this point, on the same lamp :eek:

he does 6H cycles everyday and he only cleaned the external dust filter TWICE, and no visible dust :D

he cleans the objective every once in a while because the pj is installed on the ceiling.

any feedback on the actual lamp life expectancy ?

coz I bought a spare lamp with my HC3100, but that might have been a bad move :D

I believe at 3000 hours the PJ will refuse to power on or something unless you do some reset procedure, yes...?

yup, he did it once and the pj starts bitching again :)

his lamp didn't explode, but it's far from its initial specs.

with the red contrast at the max and blue/green at 0.......he's got no red >80 IRE with an Eye One sensor.

I'd say his lamp is not dead, but still way too blue to be of any use.

anyhow, 6000 hours / cleaned the filter TWICE and it's still going strong :eek:

crazy!

I think we are gonna change ours right after the move before the ceiling mount.

I always thought a ceiling mount would end up with dust in the optical path.

but I guess this guy proved me wrong.

I know another guy with a HC1100, he kept it on a tea table 24/7.....the lamp is 400H old and he's got like 3 dust blobs :(

he also had the optional dust filter installed.

any opinions on the mount?

http://www.mountdirect.com/PMS_Projector_Wall_Mount_p/pms_w.htm

Our HC3000 says it's going to shut down soon unless we replace the lamp. Ok, our lamp really hasn't lost alot of brightness and is fine right now, i have my service order to get another one from bestbuy, however, that could take forever as it's freaking bestbuy. Is there any way to reset the bulb timer or do something to keep it from shutting down, i'll go insane if i can't watch my Serie A on our projector in the garage :(

I think it's - on the Projector - hold the Menu , > < all at the same time for 3 seconds but I'm not positive on that.

The menu must be access only from the projector buttons NOT the remote in case that did not come across clear. Not sure if it has a reset or not but Mits should be able to tell you.

No one has bought a lamp? Mine still flickers despite having ran it for about 12 hours on standard. It has less than 1500 hours on it but always on low lamp mode.

Just checking to see if any place has a little more reasonable price.

Probably the reason that nobody bought a lamp yet, is that they have more then likely bought another PJ.:D

Probably the reason that nobody bought a lamp yet, is that they have more then likely bought another PJ.:D

May very well be the case. I really like this projector.

Hey all.

I just finally took the plunge to HTPC, having previously been playing hd-wmvs through a 360.

So I've got DVI out of the PC (Nvidia 8400) into the HDMI of the projector. I'm not quite sure how to pixelmap. Right now I've got the PJ at overscan 100%, aspect Real (using 16:9 makes the image too small for my screen), screen size 720p 16:9. Nvidia is set to output 1280x720 at 60hz.

Is that as good as it gets? It seems like there is still some blurriness on seemingly random words or lines on a desktop.

Also, I just found out that the 8 series Nvidias no longer support fullscreen mirroring for some incomprehensible reason, meaning I basically have to switch my display to the PJ everytime I want to watch a movie -- which makes it impossible to do other stuff on the PC while someone is watching a movie, and also means my desktop icons and other program windows are moved around and resized when I switch back to PC display. Has anyone had any luck with programs like Ultramon? Can they solve this issue?

curttard ,

Do not use REAL , use 16:9 and 720p (along with 100%) for pixel mapping 1280x720 . Real is the reason you see blurr , if 16:9 makes the image smaller then you need to use more zoom (if you have no zoom left then you need to move the PJ) .

-- Jason

curttard ,

Do not use REAL , use 16:9 and 720p (along with 100%) for pixel mapping 1280x720 . Real is the reason you see blurr , if 16:9 makes the image smaller then you need to use more zoom (if you have no zoom left then you need to move the PJ) .

-- Jason

Thanks for the response. I had seen in a previous post on this thread that you mentioned Real was bad, but I have the same blur using 16:9. And the reduced image size of 16:9 isn't really an option, since if I set up the PJ to fill the screen with that, HDTV and 360 gaming would be too big for the screen. I don't understand why 16:9 shrinks the image so significantly, or at all for that matter.

How about color? I can't even do the DVE tint/color adjustments with HDMI, and I don't have calibrating equipment, so do I just eyeball the user color temp controls and hope for the best? Or try someone else's settings? I know there were "universal best" settings for the 4805's HDMI gains/biases but it doesn't appear the same is true for the HC3000.

And finally, does the output level of the PC matter (16-235 vs 0-255) or is either okay as long as I calibrate the PJ's brightness and contrast to match?

Everyone will tell you using someone else's colors is useless, but it damn sure improved mine A LOT. Some of the HC3000 were known to have to much green, it was very evident in mine. I found a user the had calibrated his and shared with anyone who wanted to give it a try, since mine was pushing green i knew it was a place to start. Green contrast -14, blue contrast -11 and red brightness -3 all the others at 0, then use a disk to adjust contrast and brightness. With out a true calibration you wont get it perfect or the best it can be, but mine improved a ton and now I just get into the movie with MUCH MORE natural skin tones and just more balance instead of looking at the Factory slanted green. If you have nothing to work with use others numbers to set the temp like the numbers I listed, then get a THX disk(at the front of many movies) to set the contrast and brightness. Its not perfect but you don't have any tools to work with and just like Mits can send out 10,000 PJ all pushing green all of those will be helped out by reducing green and setting the contrast and brightness.

Thanks for the tip, rrhomes.

DaGamePimp -- thankfully, I did still have some zoom range left, so with that I was able to have overscan at 100% and aspect 16:9 without having to move anything or resize my masking.

I can see the pixel mapping difference now, but there is still some blurriness -- it appears to be some kind of weird thing going on at the PC end. It almost looks like when you get a new monitor and before you've hit the auto-sync button. Some letters are perfect, one clean pixel width. Others have some kind of crap anti-aliasing going on.

disable truetype in windows, and set the pj sharpness properly.

also, using an ATi card might improve the windows desktop sharpness....I find the nvidia way blurrier.....in HDMI....but that's just me :D

and the pj zoom also creates tons of chromatic aberrations on the red, so disable it if you want perfect convergence.

The Shutter feature will cause pixel mapping to squeeze - the MENU text(But not the image) it has to shift the Menu so you don't cut it out with the shutters but the image is still 1:1 but the controls and adjustments are not as clear as when all shutters are set to 0. I use the shutters to set a perfect match to my screen its a nice feature.

This is starting to bug me. It's not just text -- I made a drawing in Photoshop using the pencil tool, 1 pixel, no anti-aliasing. At 100% zoom on the PC, it is razor sharp, no AA. When I open Photoshop on the projector and do the same thing, there are grey pixels all around the black ones. Definitely not pixel-mapped.

I have the PJ at 720p 16:9 for screen size; 16:9 aspect; overscan 100%; sharpness at 0, though I'm not sure what the best setting is: -2 seems to be the only one that doesn't put lighter pixels around the edges of the letters, so I guess that might be the one that is doing the least interfering with the source? On the PC side, Nvidia has the 3000 set to 1280x720.

yes -2 is the most neutral on my HC3100

set the zoom at the minimum, use HDMI in 1280*768, and that's as good as it's gonna get.

if you want an even sharper picture, get an ATi HD card.

If you are using Vista, try the latest driver, or beta driver. I was only able to pixel map 1:1 after doing so.

use HDMI in 1280*768

I had thought of that but it seems everyone is recommending 1280x720. I think whenever I tried setting Nvidia to use 1280x768 for the Projector, it says "test (of resolution) failed" and won't let me.

Lilgator, I'm using XP.

This is starting to bug me. It's not just text -- I made a drawing in Photoshop using the pencil tool, 1 pixel, no anti-aliasing. At 100% zoom on the PC, it is razor sharp, no AA. When I open Photoshop on the projector and do the same thing, there are grey pixels all around the black ones. Definitely not pixel-mapped.

I have the PJ at 720p 16:9 for screen size; 16:9 aspect; overscan 100%; sharpness at 0, though I'm not sure what the best setting is: -2 seems to be the only one that doesn't put lighter pixels around the edges of the letters, so I guess that might be the one that is doing the least interfering with the source? On the PC side, Nvidia has the 3000 set to 1280x720.

It almost sounds like a tracking/phase issue but that would be with VGA and not a digital signal ( HDMI / DVI-D ) . I am using an Nvidia card in my HTPC and it does 1:1 perfectly via DVI-D to HDMI . Have you tried a different DVI to HDMI cable ?

Sharpness is OFF at -2 .

--- Jason

Unfortunately I don't have an extra 30ft DVI cable. In your Nvidia settings, are you going with 720 or 768?

I am using the default Nvidia 1280x720 setting .

-- Jason

well running 1280*768 disables the sharpness filter of the pj, you get 1:1 all the way.

and also the HDMI input turns from 16-235 to 0-255, cool stuff! because it increases the dynamic of the video stream......you don't have to change the BR/CR settings of the pj to map the 0-255 signal from the PC to the 16-235 input of the pj.

but I got a HC3100, might be different ?

and the zoom lens of these pj makes tons of CA on the red, which ends up in AA on your projection screen.....so turn the bastard down ;)

Everyone will tell you using someone else's colors is useless, but it damn sure improved mine A LOT. Some of the HC3000 were known to have to much green, it was very evident in mine. I found a user the had calibrated his and shared with anyone who wanted to give it a try, since mine was pushing green i knew it was a place to start. Green contrast -14, blue contrast -11 and red brightness -3 all the others at 0, then use a disk to adjust contrast and brightness. With out a true calibration you wont get it perfect or the best it can be, but mine improved a ton and now I just get into the movie with MUCH MORE natural skin tones and just more balance instead of looking at the Factory slanted green. If you have nothing to work with use others numbers to set the temp like the numbers I listed, then get a THX disk(at the front of many movies) to set the contrast and brightness. Its not perfect but you don't have any tools to work with and just like Mits can send out 10,000 PJ all pushing green all of those will be helped out by reducing green and setting the contrast and brightness.

After your post I did the same thing. The picture really looks great now. I was about to shell out $200 for a colorimeter. Now I think the picture will hold me for a few months until I have time to dedicate to calibrating the projector. I do have one problem though. I can't get blacker than black or whiter than white to pass using the test patterns on the blu-ray version of DVE with my PS3 over HDMI, so I am having trouble setting the contrast. Is it just me, is it just the PS3 Is is the HC3000? Changing the setting on the PS3 to superwhite did not change anything. Can I force the HC3000 pass blacker than black or whiter than white?

I get BTB with my Bravo D1 so its not the Mits, just go one click that shows the lowest 1% of brightness and thats close enough, I really like the GetGray disk sold by a poster here you can find the info in the calibration thread but it sounds like your 99% there so the $25 spent might not be worth it, but its a good disk to have.

I get BTB with my Bravo D1 so its not the Mits, just go one click that shows the lowest 1% of brightness and thats close enough, I really like the GetGray disk sold by a poster here you can find the info in the calibration thread but it sounds like your 99% there so the $25 spent might not be worth it, but its a good disk to have.

Pardon my stupidity but what does the GetGray disk do, and where can I read some info on this.

Thanks

I seem to be incapable of pixel mapping. I've messed with every setting in Nvidia, Windows, and the PJ. I'm thinking of just going back to component and watching wmvs on the 360, since the hassle of going the PC route just doesn't seem worth it if I'm not even getting one of the prime benefits.

I get BTB with my Bravo D1 so its not the Mits, just go one click that shows the lowest 1% of brightness and thats close enough, I really like the GetGray disk sold by a poster here you can find the info in the calibration thread but it sounds like your 99% there so the $25 spent might not be worth it, but its a good disk to have.

I was able to set the brightness using the method you mentioned above. However, I am having trouble setting the contrast. As far as I can tell using DVE you need the whiter than white signal to set the contrast correctly. I can't see the difference between the brightest two boxes on the greyscale ramp. I may look into the GetGray disk or get a colorimeter, or both.

Pardon my stupidity but what does the GetGray disk do, and where can I read some info on this.

Thanks

Its just a calibration disc done by a poster here but most like it better than what the pro's do, its simple but done right and has most of what you need other than a blue filter to look through but you can get one of those too. You buy it by PayPal and then download and burn it on your PC DVD burner.


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=586139


Having WTW is not mandatory although preferred, just back off you contrast until you see the lightest 1% you can differentiate, just the reverse of the method you used for brightness.

Its just a calibration disc done by a poster here but most like it better than what the pro's do, its simple but done right and has most of what you need other than a blue filter to look through but you can get one of those too. You buy it by PayPal and then download and burn it on your PC DVD burner.


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=586139


Having WTW is not mandatory although preferred, just back off you contrast until you see the lightest 1% you can differentiate, just the reverse of the method you used for brightness.

Let me ask you this did you tried it, if so did it make a difference. Thanks for the response and link.

I seem to be incapable of pixel mapping. I've messed with every setting in Nvidia, Windows, and the PJ. I'm thinking of just going back to component and watching wmvs on the 360, since the hassle of going the PC route just doesn't seem worth it if I'm not even getting one of the prime benefits.

you can check if you're 1:1 with this pattern :

http://pix.nofrag.com/b/e/7/d14815542305c5857076007c4cd4dt.jpg (http://pix.nofrag.com/b/e/7/d14815542305c5857076007c4cd4d.html)

Nope. It's a moire nightmare on my screen.

I did buy the GetGray disc at $25 it's pretty high but I like to have any calibration disc that helps and this one does. Its simple easily understood in five minutes I'll but the HD one if it ever comes outs. I have DVE also and DVE will do everything GetGray will I just like GetGray better.

Can those of you with 1:1 mapping with an Nvidia card let me know which driver version and which card you're using? Do you check the box for "treat as HDTV"? (I've tried both and neither makes a difference).

I am using an older Nvidia set-up , Nvidia 6600GT OC with driver 6.14.11.6218 . I have another PC that has an even older Nvidia card (5xxx series) and driver , the DVI to HDMI does 1:1 perfectly fine on that PC as well .

--- Jason

Well, got 1:1 working finally. I downloaded the newest beta Nvidia drivers (I was previously using the most recent regular drivers). I find it hard to believe they just happened to just now fix whatever the problem was with my setup, so I would almost think it was just the restart that fixed it, except I restarted 100x during all my previous attempts. Oh well; it works.

Now to try and figure out why my 1080p x264s stutter even though CPU usage doesn't go over 70%, or why when I used the Cyberlink hardware-accelerated codec, the same 1080p files play back smoothly at only 30-40% usage but then stutter in random spots (still not going over 40% usage)....

I have a Mits 3000 connected via HDMI to my 360.

Here are my observations regarding reference levels...

Standard produces the picture with the most black level detail...however it's not very 'contrasty'

Expanded produces a high contrast AND very natural looking image at the expense of a loss of tremendous black/shadow detail.

It seems that the same picture quality can be obtained with either Standard or Expanded simply by adjusting the PJs brightness/contrast to compensate...

So the question is...what is technically correct? Expanded seems to produce the proper dynamic range and ligthing effects that the developers of games intended, but it just does not seem to be correct because so much black level detail is lost.....

I have heard stories by owners of different brands experiencing the same issues, but some have found the elusive magic setting to have both a high contrast image with no loss of blacks

I'm a bit baffled on the levels as well. FFdshow lets you set the output levels to either 0-255 or 16-235. I use ffdshow for some but CoreAVC for others, and Core lets you set both the input and output range. I'm not sure how to set those so that the two give me the exact same output given the same source, or what output level setting is best to send to the projector before calibrating brightness and contrast.

I just got finished calibrating my grayscale using The "GRAYSCALE CALIBRATION FOR DUMMIES" guide. http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457

The picture looks awesome. It cost me $140 for the i1 Display LT, $20 each for DVE HD Basics in Blu-Ray and HD DVD and $25 for GetGray. I was able to set up the levels my PS3 for Blu-ray and SD DVD via HDMI, and my HD-A3 for HD-DVD via Component on the three AV memories. The PS3 via HDMI is now right at D65. The HD-A3 is close but not perfect. I do not know if that is a limitation of Component or the HD-A3.

It was well worth the money and the evening spent calibrating. I was using someones settings that were posted earlier, and while they were an improvement over the factory settings, on my set-up blue was too high. The picture is much improved after calibration.

I would highly recommend this to anyone with the time to do it. The link above walks you through the whole process.

I recalibrated my HC3000 with my free AVS blu-ray disk with ControlCal and ColorHCFR using my i1 Display LT. Here are my results: