Excellent job Jedirun! What is the gamma value? Do you use the CIE HD or the CIE NTSC reference? Where do you get the free AVS blu-ray disk? ...last one: what colorimeter are you using? I would like to see your projector in action!!

Federico

NEW ControlCAL HC3000 Display Profile Available and Free!

I'm looking for some testers for a new version of the HC3000 Series Display Profile for ControlCAL with Gamma Controls.

Please Register on HERE (http://www.controlcal.com/forum/index.php) and then send a PM to me there (to Turbe). I will give you access to the Beta Threads (Non-Public).

Thanks

Shawn

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=111126&d=1211559504
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=111127&d=1211559504

Excellent job Jedirun! What is the gamma value? Do you use the CIE HD or the CIE NTSC reference? Where do you get the free AVS blu-ray disk? ...last one: what colorimeter are you using? I would like to see your projector in action!!

Federico

Here are my settings: I am using this on a 94" diy screen made from white screen material I bought on ebay about 3 years ago with a gain of 1 in a light controlled room. Low lamp mode, Iris closed. PS3 connected via HDMI.

Gamma: User 1 (Cinema Reference) High 0 Mid 0 Low 0
Contrast: 0
Brightness: 0
Contrast Red: -1
Contrast Green: -14
Contrast Blue: -17
Brightness Red: 0
Brightness Green: 0
Brightess Blue: 0

These settings may not help you much as every projector is different and my setup will be different than yours.

My gamma curve is not perfect, but when I changed the settings, the steps were a little too big, and made it a little worse than where I am now.

I am going to recalibrate it for SD DVD with the PS3 and for HD DVD for my HD-A3 this weekend.

I am using the Eye One Display LT Colorimeter. It was $140 on Amazon. If you buy one use the links on one of the pages like http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457 so that the people who make this stuff possible benefit.

I am using the HD reference values.

You can get the free calibration disks here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496&highlight=calibration+disk

I also recommend GetGray for SD DVD. It is really well put together: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=586139&highlight=getgray

Also a big thanks to Turbe. ControCal is very helpful in the calibration process. It is much easier than fumbling through the menu.

So I wanted to get some peoples thoughts on the screen. Does this PJ look better with a white screen, or gray?

I think that a gray screen works best. I have a light controlled room and the gray screen really helps with to enhance my black levels. I shot onto a friend's white screen and the image was too bright. It was harsh to look at but it was when I was using an Optoma projector.

Almost all the inexpensive gray screens have 'Sheen' , 'Sparklies' , dingy whites . The DaLite HCCV can really help with black level and contrast in a non light controlled room but the sheen is a deal breaker for me (same for the Draper HD Gray) . In my opinion the absolute worst gray screen offender is the Graywolf I/II , the 'sheen' from this screen destroys the image and I feel like I am watching one of the old pearl screens . The only gray screen that does it right is made by Stewart ( so ... $$$$ ;) ) .

--- Jason

I agree with DaGamePimp I have a flat white 1.0 screen I did a mix of paints from the DIY screen forum and it just MAGNIFIES the dithering to ungodly levels. I knew with in about 60 seconds that I had wasted my time. A flat(eggshell) gray might be good if you have the light output to do it justice but you should be very careful when getting a gray screen. There is a new mixture in the DIY threads thats has something to do with a TRUE GRAY and they seem to love it but I'm happy with flat white so I haven't looked into it but its what I'd try next if I did.

Jedirun (and others), what kind of ftL are you getting after calibration on a screen with 100% window?

Like anything else gray screens have their place and white screens have theirs. I have one of the aforementioned worst screens ever, Optoma Graywolf II and I use it in my living room for things like this,

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/7739/ss006ae4.jpg
and this,
http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/9789/ep1690004uc0.jpg
This works great for me in a room with a lot of ambient light the whites are relatively dingy free.

Now in my DMC, Dedicated Movie Cave, I have a DIY Designer White laminate and it works well for this,

http://img110.imageshack.us/img110/7513/screenshots15xk8.jpg

bguzman

For Sale: Mitsubishi HC3000U (ISF'D HDMI Input) Sorry Item Sold

Excellent condition, ceiling mounted since new. Have all the original materials, manual, box, power cord and remote. The projector has 768 total hours on the unit.

This projector has a Mack Warranty in which is transferable to whom ever buy's it the bulb warranty expires ]12/18/2009[/color], so it has 1 and a half year left on it (better then the original manufacturing warranty-of 90 day's). The Projector itself is warranted until 12/18/2010[/color], so it has 2 and a half year left on it. I will pay the transferable fee on the WARRANTY.Will even throw in a THX Onkyo 5.1 in working order if you pay the shipping, reason to many receivers around the house.

The picture quality is excellent in mode 2, it has been calibrated where the movie has a 3D affect.

See image below of the projector and the mack warranty etc.

Selling price for this projector with warranty is Just $700 and shipping cost. Pay Pal or Cashiers Check accepted.

If you have any questions feel free to PM me.

Livonia, Mi. 48154 is the location of the projector.

Like anything else gray screens have their place and white screens have theirs. I have one of the aforementioned worst screens ever, Optoma Graywolf II and I use it in my living room for things like this,


Now in my DMC, Dedicated Movie Cave, I have a DIY Designer White laminate and it works well for this,

http://img110.imageshack.us/img110/7513/screenshots15xk8.jpg

bguzman


I LOVE my DIY Wilsonart Designer White screen!! :D

I also have a DIY Wilsonart Designer White Screen!

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x9/quack724/7-8-08%20calibration/IMG_3540.jpg

My bulb has about 1000 hours. My set up is as follows, HC3000 <--HDMI---> Onkyo 885 <-- HDMI--> PS3 & Toshiba XA2.

I used the Eye One LT and Blu Ray version of DVE HD Basics along with Kal's guide (http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457) to to adjust greyscale. This is my first time doing this sort of calibration.

When I set up on the tripod as shown above and adjusted the positioning recommendations as described in step 1.14, I could not get my peak light output (The 'Y' luminance value) above 39.6 (or 11.562 ftL). I'm not sure if this was due to the age of my bulb or a design limitation of the HC3000.

Here were my settings after performing the greyscale adjustments:

1) Gamma: Cinema (this was pre-set. I did not change during calibration)

2) Contrast: 0

3) Brightness: 0

4) Color Temp - Contrast (RGB HighEnd):
Red: 20
Green: 0
Blue: -7

5) Color Temp - Brightness (RGB LowEnd):
Red: 4
Green: 0
Blue: 2

6) Brilliant Color: On (this was pre-set. I did not change during calibration)

7) Bulb low setting and Iris Off (this was pre-set. I did not change during calibration)

My post greyscale adjusted results are shown below. I know my results are not "spot on" but I was hoping to at least get close and I think I am much better than where I was before. However, to my eyes Tobey's face is too red and Charlize's veil is too pink. Did I do something wrong or is there more work needed? Or is this how the images should look? Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x9/quack724/7-8-08%20calibration/IMG_3546.jpg

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x9/quack724/7-8-08%20calibration/IMG_3553.jpg

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x9/quack724/7-8-08%20calibration/CIEaftercalib.jpg

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x9/quack724/7-8-08%20calibration/RGBvsIREaftercalib.jpg

I re-posted my question (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14270851&posted=1#post14270851) to the Display Calibration forum and got some responses. thanks!

While I have looked at both your pics regarding a "pink" coloring to her veil and what you perceived as too much red in spideeeees face, both pics look damn good.
I do notice the difference, however, are you being toooooo much of a perfectionest, or.... are my aged eyes satisfied with the first group of pics??!!
I realize the picture people prefer is a personal preference and I thank you for posting the pics and calibration numbers.
It is very much appreciated!!!

VB

http://www.6ave.com/shop/searchresults.aspx?kwd=HC3000U

My friend has this unit that he will give to me for $250...with a 100" (i think) screen. It is in perfect shape etc.

I would like to use it for my outside theater...issue is it would be 35' from the screen. Is it possible? Are their any projectors that will work that far away?

My friend has this unit that he will give to me for $250...with a 100" (i think) screen. It is in perfect shape etc.

I would like to use it for my outside theater...issue is it would be 35' from the screen. Is it possible?

No. Not even close.

Download Mits projection calculator at the bottom of this page:

http://www.mitsubishi-hometheater.com/hc3000u.asp

And BTW, if your friends HC3000 has low hrs (meaning it won't need a new lamp), that's a steal! You won't find a better PJ for less than $1000, maybe even $1500.

Are their any projectors that will work that far away?

Not any budget ones....actually, probably only very high end commercial projectors I think.

While I have looked at both your pics regarding a "pink" coloring to her veil and what you perceived as too much red in spideeeees face, both pics look damn good.
I do notice the difference, however, are you being toooooo much of a perfectionest, or.... are my aged eyes satisfied with the first group of pics??!!
I realize the picture people prefer is a personal preference and I thank you for posting the pics and calibration numbers.
It is very much appreciated!!!

VB

I learned that I was losing red at 80IRE but am slowing correcting via iterative greyscale adjustment. More details on the other thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1048103). I hear what you're saying and to be honest I use to not be as critical when I first got the projector as I went through that intial wow / honeymoon phase. But the more movies I watched I gradually noticed the colors were just not right and eye ball adjustments were not helping. It slowly bothered me up to point where I couldn't stand it anymore. Now with that said, I don't think I am aiming for perfect today. I just want as best as I can squeeze out ;)

Just replaced my Optoma h31 with the hc3000. The mitsubishi is a great PJ. A question I have is how to display the bulb hours on it. It does not seem to be on the menus, unless I have missed something.

Just replaced my Optoma h31 with the hc3000. The mitsubishi is a great PJ. A question I have is how to display the bulb hours on it. It does not seem to be on the menus, unless I have missed something.

I can't answer your question, but I have a few for you:

I currently have an H31 and have been enticed by the currently low price on the HC3000, but was wondering how much of an improvement you are seeing....with your eyes?

>Besides the obvious resolution gain, how does the blacks and shadow details compare? They both have DC2+(?) chips, yet the Mits has the advantage of stepping down the iris.

>And video noise/dithering?

>Audible running noise?

With the throw and offset being similar to the H31, it should be a practical bolt in replacement I would think?

I'm not in any rush to replace my H31....it still only has about 500hrs on it total (lamp and PJ), but at the price the HC3000 is at, it almost seems worth it if there is a noticeable improvement?

Thanks!

I am using a PS3 and Toshiba XA2 with the HC3000. I am trying to calibrate to each source but I don't see a way to store different color temps.

I know there are three memories but I have found that despite this, when you set color temp for memory 1, it is also the same for memory 2 and memory 3 and changing the color temp setting for any of the memories will affect the other two. Is there a way around this?

The Optoma has been a great PJ for me and have put 2500 hours on mine and it is still bright and beautiful. the 3000 does beat it out in black levels and shadow detail, though as you know the H31 is no slouch and puts out a great picture. It is also a drop in replacement for the optoma and I didn't have to change a thing when I mounted it in place of the H31. It is also a quieter projecter and is almost inaudible in low lamp mode. You will also notice a nice jump in clarity with the 720 resolution. Overall it was worth the switch for me.
Regards

The Optoma has been a great PJ for me and have put 2500 hours on mine and it is still bright and beautiful. the 3000 does beat it out in black levels and shadow detail, though as you know the H31 is no slouch and puts out a great picture. It is also a drop in replacement for the optoma and I didn't have to change a thing when I mounted it in place of the H31. It is also a quieter projecter and is almost inaudible in low lamp mode. You will also notice a nice jump in clarity with the 720 resolution. Overall it was worth the switch for me.
Regards

Notice any difference with dithering/video noise?

Thanks for the comments!

I can pickup this projector new for around $800...is there anything even close to being better than the HC3000 at that price?

nope, buy it. It's a great projector, I'm 100% satisfied with it. Brightness is great even with my 10' wide screen. Black level is fantastic and I don't even use the Iris feature for extra contrast, it's fine without it. Blu-ray looks beautiful on this projector.

Sounds good as I have a PS3 and HD-30 hd dvd player...this is just a stop gap till 1080p...thanks!

$800 new is a steal. I shoot onto a 92" diagonal screen. With HD DVD and Blu-Ray, and me sitting at 15 feet away, I am in no rush to go 1080p.

Well I think my bulb just went. The projector tries to strike it it just wont light up. Tonight when I first went to turn it on I heard what sounded like a crack, I've heard this once before(not as bad) but the bulb lit on the 2nd strike when I heard it before. Tonight it just wont light up even though the PJ is going through the 2 strike process. I just hear this light clicking. The power button is solid red and the other one flashes green then goes out after about a minute. Both lights are not staying on(the indicator to send it in for service) according to the manual it tells me to unplug it and wait about ten minutes which I have did and it comes on tries to strike 2x then flashes the Steady RED on the Power LED and Blinking Green on the Status LED. According to the manual thats not necessarily a bulb replacement the bulb had about 1500 hours on it. 1000 in low and the last 500 in standard, when I went to standard the bulb flickered for the first 30 hours then settled in and didn't flicker any more, but it had a rough time so to speak when I first went to standard. I don't mind paying for a new bulb around $300 but if it turned out to be something else that'd piss me off, but I guess I can pull the bulb to check it before I order a new one just wished I get the full 2000-3000 like a lot of people get. Anyone know of any reliable placed to get a OEM bulb, I can replace just the bulb as long as I know its the real deal and not a b bulb or rebuild you never know on the Ebay stuff though I suspect their probably OK. Its times like this that these PJ don't seem like a good buy, $300 is northing to laugh at. I could Ebay the PJ and apply the $300 towards a new flat screen then grab a 1080P in a year. I'm bummed.


UPDATE: OK I pulled the bulb and it looks OK for what thats worth, I didn't pull it out of the housing though, is there anyway for me to tell if the bulb is blown or not? I tried to turn it back on after pulling the bulb and puting it back in and I could hear the same clicking right in the bulb area the only other thing there is in that location is the color wheel and the pj has been really quiet so I guess its the bulb, tomorrow I'll pull it all the way out of the housing - shouldn't one of the wires be burned in half(It didn't look like it) not allowing a connection how else can I tell on the bulb by looking a feeling?

Well I think my bulb just went. The projector tries to strike it it just wont light up. Tonight when I first went to turn it on I heard what sounded like a crack, I've heard this once before(not as bad) but the bulb lit on the 2nd strike when I heard it before. Tonight it just wont light up even though the PJ is going through the 2 strike process. I just hear this light clicking. The power button is solid red and the other one flashes green then goes out after about a minute. Both lights are not staying on(the indicator to send it in for service) according to the manual it tells me to unplug it and wait about ten minutes which I have did and it comes on tries to strike 2x then flashes the Steady RED on the Power LED and Blinking Green on the Status LED. According to the manual thats not necessarily a bulb replacement the bulb had about 1500 hours on it. 1000 in low and the last 500 in standard, when I went to standard the bulb flickered for the first 30 hours then settled in and didn't flicker any more, but it had a rough time so to speak when I first went to standard. I don't mind paying for a new bulb around $300 but if it turned out to be something else that'd piss me off, but I guess I can pull the bulb to check it before I order a new one just wished I get the full 2000-3000 like a lot of people get. Anyone know of any reliable placed to get a OEM bulb, I can replace just the bulb as long as I know its the real deal and not a b bulb or rebuild you never know on the Ebay stuff though I suspect their probably OK. Its times like this that these PJ don't seem like a good buy, $300 is northing to laugh at. I could Ebay the PJ and apply the $300 towards a new flat screen then grab a 1080P in a year. I'm bummed.

I paid $300 for mine at Provantage:

http://www.provantage.com/mitsubishi-vlt-hc910lp~7MITP056.htm

My old bulb had about 1000 hours when I decided to purchase a new one even though it functioned normally. When my new bulb arrived I switched to the new bulb and my old one is a spare. The reason for doing this is that new bulbs are warranted for 90 days after date of purchase.

It's possible the lamp can be ok....a bad ballast can blow/shorten a lamp's life....as also the pwr supply, etc. Might be a lamp fuse too....

Just won a HC3000U from eBay for $799, with a $200 cash back rebate :). From what I'm reading it sounds like this PJ is about as good as I'm going to get for my needs. I'm going to be using it in a light-controlled room, but the room is very small. The throw distance will be between 9-9.5 feet (yes I know, quite short) and the screen will only be about 73" diagonal. I realize this is a very small screen size for front projection, but it should also do a good job in a larger room in a year or two and for $599 after cash back, it was too good a deal to pass up.

Anyway, I have a question. With such a short throw distance and small (73" diagonal 16x9) screen size, would you recommend a high contrast gray or white screen? I figure even in low lamp mode, with such a small screen and short throw I might need a HC gray screen to keep the black levels deep. I could be wrong though - I'm an admitted newcomer to projectors. From what I've read this isn't an extremely bright projector like some of the newer LCD's and DLP's, but at my short throw distance I'd actually prefer a projector that isn't quite as bright. I'm just hoping for some advice as to what type of screen to get. Thanks in advance :).

My opinion would be to go with the white screen, by the way congrats on the winning of the PJ, it is an excellent PJ. I upgraded from the Mitz to a Sanyo 1080P and I miss the mits it upscale to 1080I, even if its a 720P.

My throw distance was 11' on a 106 16.9 Carada screen and the picture was great, you do have to control the ambient light in the room.

The way I kook at it the PJ will be closer to the screen and you will have a better PQ, besides the price was right, correct?:D

My opinion would be to go with the white screen, by the way congrats on the winning of the PJ, it is an excellent PJ. I upgraded from the Mitz to a Sanyo 1080P and I miss the mits it upscale to 1080I, even if its a 720P.

My throw distance was 11' on a 106 16.9 Carada screen and the picture was great, you do have to control the ambient light in the room.

The way I kook at it the PJ will be closer to the screen and you will have a better PQ, besides the price was right, correct?:D

Thanks for the response :). Everything I've read about the HC3000 seems to indicate it's a good PJ, and again for a final cost of $599 new I couldn't resist! Seeing that you still miss some aspects of the HC3000 even after upgrading makes me even more confident that it's an amazing PJ for the price.

So you don't think that from such a short (9 foot) throw distance that the blacks will lose their depth with a 1.0 gain white screen? Again, I don't know a whole lot about PJ's but black levels are important to me and I don't want to compromise them. I do have very good control of lighting in my room.

If anyone else has any recommendations, feel free to chime in. Thanks again!

You got a great deal. White 1.0 is my recommendation too, You'll probably be able to use low power and still get some bright pop. If you go with a gray screen it muddys the whites so there are trade offs. I like running my HC3000 in high it just looks fantastic on my 92 diagonal with the extra brightness, but the bulb was midway through its life, before it cracked and died last month, now I need a new bulb. I just bought a 65" Olevia LCD flat screen and the blacks of DLP sure are missed. The bulb on this PJ is relatively cheap since it uses the same as the HC1000, HC1500 which both units have a ton in the market so the competition is high.

You got a great deal. White 1.0 is my recommendation too, You'll probably be able to use low power and still get some bright pop. If you go with a gray screen it muddys the whites so there are trade offs. I like running my HC3000 in high it just looks fantastic on my 92 diagonal with the extra brightness, but the bulb was midway through its life, before it cracked and died last month, now I need a new bulb. I just bought a 65" Olevia LCD flat screen and the blacks of DLP sure are missed. The bulb on this PJ is relatively cheap since it uses the same as the HC1000, HC1500 which both units have a ton in the market so the competition is high.

Thanks for the response. You have no idea how happy your post makes me. The only thing (other than size) that I find lacking in my 40" Samsung LCD are the blacks. Sounds like the HC3000 might deliver a good improvement in blacks as well as a much larger picture. It's also good to know that the bulb is the same as the bulb for the common HC1500 (is it the same as the HC1600 as well?). I'm feeling better and better with the purchase now. I can't wait to get it all hooked up :D. Thanks again.

I second (or third) that... a straight matte white is the way to go.

Just another thought - For future-proofing, try and get a screen without ANY texture of its own.
Recently I moved from a Mits 3000 to a Benq W5000, and the finer 1920x1080 pixel structure combined with the slight texture in the screen resulted in moire patterns when viewing from any angle.

Check that the screen has a proper backing to stop light penetrating and bouncing off the wall behind. Otherwise, just paint the wall behind the screen black.

Even more important... Get masking!!
Having pitch black surrounding the screen, along with adjustable black masking for 2.35 films makes a MIND-BOGGLING difference. It's cheap too... Best method is to get a pull-down screen and have a black blind made up (a blind should be around $70). Screw it to the head-box of your screen and you're good to go.
:D

I second (or third) that... a straight matte white is the way to go.

Just another thought - For future-proofing, try and get a screen without ANY texture of its own.
Recently I moved from a Mits 3000 to a Benq W5000, and the finer 1920x1080 pixel structure combined with the slight texture in the screen resulted in moire patterns when viewing from any angle.

Check that the screen has a proper backing to stop light penetrating and bouncing off the wall behind. Otherwise, just paint the wall behind the screen black.

Even more important... Get masking!!
Having pitch black surrounding the screen, along with adjustable black masking for 2.35 films makes a MIND-BOGGLING difference. It's cheap too... Best method is to get a pull-down screen and have a black blind made up (a blind should be around $70). Screw it to the head-box of your screen and you're good to go.
:D

Great feedback. A couple questions if you don't mind.

First, I understand the concept of masking and it makes tons of sense (I hate the gray "black" bars on my 40" LCD when viewing 2.35:1 movies and imagine that perfectly black borders would make a world of difference). However, I'm not exactly sure what you mean by the blinds. Could you elaborate a little on what you mean. Even better, if you have done it yourself, could you post a picture or two? Sometimes a picture really is worth a thousand words ;).

Second, my budget is low and I don't want to spend hundreds and hundreds of dollars on a screen. I've seen in the little research I've done that an inexpensive pull down screen won't be tensioned (tensioned screens tend to cost a fortune) and is therefore susceptible to waves. How prevalent is this issue, and is it easily noticeable? I would like a pull down screen because I could mount my LCD to the wall and use it for TV watching and gaming and pull down the projector screen for movie viewing or other special occasions, but if inexpensive pull down screens will have lots of problems, they might not be worth it.

Finally, unfortunately I have an AC vent in the ceiling near where a pull down PJ screen will be (very close, actually). I'm afraid that the air might move the screen a little if the AC turns on and distort the picture. For this reason I think I might be stuck wall mounting a fixed frame screen. Of course this might necessitate getting rid of the TV. But anyway, do you think the pull down screen would still work given its placement? Thanks in advance for your response to these potential issues.

I agree, you want a Egg Shell flat screen not textures or sheen of any kind dlp magnify those. You can do a build it your self screen if you have the time or just enjoy doing so, I put mine together for $175 its very sweet, I may post a picture of it in the next week or so. It's 1.5 aluminum bezel mailed to my door $100 with 1 inch inter black velvet cloth $10 on a architect 80x45 drawing board $60 delivered. It ultra sweet for $170 fixed frame.

I purchased an HC3000u from DaGamePimp a few months ago. He was using a 120" Da-Lite High Power screen that has a gain of 2.8. The projector was ISF calibrated and he felt the high gain screen provided the best image. I decided to purchase an 80" Da-Lite Theater-Lite (http://www.dalite.com/products/product.php?cID=19&pID=327) screen with Wide Power and a 2.2 gain (it was $200). The screen sits on the floor and pulls up in front of my LCD. The edges curve a little, but it isn't too noticeable. I really like the picture and am projecting from about 9.5'. I had a friend over Sunday evening to watch Iron Man and he thought my picture was much better than his 50" Sony DLP HDTV.

I wouldn't worry too much about the black levels on the HC3000, they are solid with the 1.0 and 1.3 gain 80" and 88" screens I've used with it. I've gone from a 61" Hitachi RPTV (had convergence board issues) to this and the HC3000 bests it in several categories, with image/picture quality and color accuracy being it's best strengths. I've got mine mounted about 12 1/2' back and almost 8' up, almost even w/the top of the screen. I haven't had the change to post some pics from it yet, but I will shortly.

Fortunately (or unfortunately), I was able to get my Hitachi repaired for little money and I'm going to have to sell the HC3000 due to the lack of demand and return on RPTVs nowadays. Kind of a bummer considering I've had it less than six months and haven't even gotten 200 hrs. of low power on the lamp, I know it'll go a long time seeing the success most others have had with this projector. Tough adjustment going back to a 61" from an 88" screen, but I'd hate to have one of them just sitting around:(.

I would suggest either the standard matte (~1.0) or high contrast matte (~1.5) and using the iris setting to get the best blacks out of this guy. Light control will help, so if you've got the option of keeping the room darker for movies, do so, less impactful with sports or brighter sources. One of the screens I used was a Da-Lite pull-down and it was pretty decent, though I did get some waves before too long. They were only noticable when a rectangular grid across the screen for scores or news broadcasts were used, rarely noticed during movies. Obviously, this would depend on the severity of the waves, but if you have the option of getting a tensioned or fixed frame screen, I'd suggest saving a bit extra for it.

Enjoy your new PJ, that's a great deal for the HC3000 and you'll definitely get some good use out of it...


edit: here's (http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj311/tdonaghue/Mitsubishi%20HC3000U%20Pics/) a link to some screenshots

Thanks tomd51. I'm feeling better and better about the HC3000 all the time. I think I'll end up with a 1.0 gain matte white screen. I have just about perfect light control in my room. There's only one window and I have blackout curtains over it, so even on a sunny day only a tiny bit of light can leak in above the curtain - you won't even notice it if you aren't look at the window.

I have a question about placement. I know that other Mitsubishi's like the 1500/1600 need to be placed either above the top of the image or below the bottom of the image. How does placement of the HC3000 work? The reviews I saw seemed to indicate that it also had that requirement. This is fine for me - I'm planning on ceiling mounting it anyway. However, Projector Central's calculator doesn't show it as being that way, which worries me. Can anyway verify how this PJ needs to be placed with respect to the image? I'm hoping it's like the HC1500/1600.

HC3000:
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Mitsubishi-HC3000U-projection-calculator-pro.htm
HC1500:
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Mitsubishi-HC1500-projection-calculator-pro.htm

I'm hoping the PJ central calculator is wrong with the HC3000.

One more thing - is there a way to reduce the severity of waves on a pull down screen based on how you take care of the screen?

Thanks tomd51. I'm feeling better and better about the HC3000 all the time. I think I'll end up with a 1.0 gain matte white screen. I have just about perfect light control in my room. There's only one window and I have blackout curtains over it, so even on a sunny day only a tiny bit of light can leak in above the curtain - you won't even notice it if you aren't look at the window.

I have a question about placement. I know that other Mitsubishi's like the 1500/1600 need to be placed either above the top of the image or below the bottom of the image. How does placement of the HC3000 work? The reviews I saw seemed to indicate that it also had that requirement. This is fine for me - I'm planning on ceiling mounting it anyway. However, Projector Central's calculator doesn't show it as being that way, which worries me. Can anyway verify how this PJ needs to be placed with respect to the image? I'm hoping it's like the HC1500/1600.

One more thing - is there a way to reduce the severity of waves on a pull down screen based on how you take care of the screen?

I had the 3000 for 3 years and paired it with a 120" HP screen. I loved the projector it was great, blacks were superb and so was color accuracy.In terms of placement the offset was I think 28%, which translated into about a 6 inch drop for the projector from the ceiling ( 8.5 feet ). The top of my screen was 16 inches from the ceiling. I hope this helps.
the ceiling so the drop was 10 inches , if memory serves me right.

You may want to download the Mitsubishi projector calculator and put in all the specifics for your environment. Here's (http://www.mitsubishi-presentations.com/pdf/projectorcalculator.zip) the link to the calculator from Mits.

I found this to be more accurate for ceiling mounting the HC3000, seeing what distance down I needed it to be, how far back and what size screen would work.

You may want to download the Mitsubishi projector calculator and put in all the specifics for your environment. Here's (http://www.mitsubishi-presentations.com/pdf/projectorcalculator.zip) the link to the calculator from Mits.

I found this to be more accurate for ceiling mounting the HC3000, seeing what distance down I needed it to be, how far back and what size screen would work.

Thanks Tom. That was most helpful :).

Stephen

Np ;)

Great feedback. A couple questions if you don't mind.

First, I understand the concept of masking and it makes tons of sense (I hate the gray "black" bars on my 40" LCD when viewing 2.35:1 movies and imagine that perfectly black borders would make a world of difference). However, I'm not exactly sure what you mean by the blinds. Could you elaborate a little on what you mean. Even better, if you have done it yourself, could you post a picture or two? Sometimes a picture really is worth a thousand words ;).

Second, my budget is low and I don't want to spend hundreds and hundreds of dollars on a screen. I've seen in the little research I've done that an inexpensive pull down screen won't be tensioned (tensioned screens tend to cost a fortune) and is therefore susceptible to waves. How prevalent is this issue, and is it easily noticeable? I would like a pull down screen because I could mount my LCD to the wall and use it for TV watching and gaming and pull down the projector screen for movie viewing or other special occasions, but if inexpensive pull down screens will have lots of problems, they might not be worth it.

Finally, unfortunately I have an AC vent in the ceiling near where a pull down PJ screen will be (very close, actually). I'm afraid that the air might move the screen a little if the AC turns on and distort the picture. For this reason I think I might be stuck wall mounting a fixed frame screen. Of course this might necessitate getting rid of the TV. But anyway, do you think the pull down screen would still work given its placement? Thanks in advance for your response to these potential issues.


I've owned my pulldown screen for almost 10 years, and I've had no issues.
On the other hand, you might have issues with that air-con... but it's hard to say for sure.
Attaching a weight(s) to the bar at the bottom of the screen should help counteract drafts.

Bare in mind that the main problem with a fixed screen is masking off the bottom - So just make sure your throw-distance, mounting height and digital vertical shift can give you a common bottom line for 2.35 films, if you're considering going this way. This way you would just rack the picture down when watching a 2.35 film and pull down the blind above the screen.

By "blind", I just mean a matte-black, chain-operated window blind, which screws onto the screen's head box. Any decent blinds shop should be able to custom-make one for you.

I'll take and post pictures when I get a chance...

I've owned my pulldown screen for almost 10 years, and I've had no issues.
On the other hand, you might have issues with that air-con... but it's hard to say for sure.
Attaching a weight(s) to the bar at the bottom of the screen should help counteract drafts.

Good to hear that your pull down screen has had no problems. I was actually thinking of doing exactly what you recommended - attaching a weight to the bottom of the screen.

Bare in mind that the main problem with a fixed screen is masking off the bottom - So just make sure your throw-distance, mounting height and digital vertical shift can give you a common bottom line for 2.35 films, if you're considering going this way. This way you would just rack the picture down when watching a 2.35 film and pull down the blind above the screen.

Interesting idea. I'll have to see about maybe doing that. The PJ shipped today so I'll hopefully have it by either Saturday or early next week. I actually don't have the screen yet and am planning to try the PJ shooting at my bare wall first to get a feel for screen size and whether or not pixilization or screen door effect become a factor. I know these are far more prevalent with LCD PJ's, but my view distance is quite short, and I want to experiment with a couple of screen sizes before I finalize anything with the screen.

By "blind", I just mean a matte-black, chain-operated window blind, which screws onto the screen's head box. Any decent blinds shop should be able to custom-make one for you.

I'll take and post pictures when I get a chance...

That's what I thought you meant, but I wasn't 100% sure. I'd still very much appreciate a picture or two so I could have a better visualization of what I need. It would also help me to have a picture to show the person who would be making the custom blinds so they knew exactly what I needed as well. Thanks again for the help.

Stephen

I had the 3000 for 3 years and paired it with a 120" HP screen. I loved the projector it was great, blacks were superb and so was color accuracy.In terms of placement the offset was I think 28%, which translated into about a 6 inch drop for the projector from the ceiling ( 8.5 feet ). The top of my screen was 16 inches from the ceiling. I hope this helps.
the ceiling so the drop was 10 inches , if memory serves me right.

Appreciate the feedback. Now I'm trying not to get my hopes too high because everyone is saying so many good things about the HC3000!

Try to temper your enthusiasm, but at the same time, feel confident knowing you're getting a solid performing projector... :cool:

Thanks guys. I hope you don't mind a couple more questions.

So I ordered a PJ mount. I haven't yet bought my screen, because I want to try different sizes on the wall. Being that the PJ is 720p and my viewing distance is rather close, I want to make sure I don't see any obvious pixel structure before I settle on a screen size.

That said, what is the best way to set up the PJ and screen so they match up right? Many LCD PJ's have lens shift and make it pretty easy to line things up, but I know most low and midrange DLP's are much less flexible with placement and setup. So what do I do? Do I set up the PJ the way I like it first, then place the screen to line up with it? Should I do the screen first? Any easy, foolproof way to do this without screwing up and ending up a little bit off (that would bother me tremendously...unfortunately I'm a bit of a perfectionist)? Thanks in advance. The PJ is scheduled to arrive on Monday and I'd like to have a good game plan ready for when it arrives :D

Stephen

Thanks guys. I hope you don't mind a couple more questions.

So I ordered a PJ mount. I haven't yet bought my screen, because I want to try different sizes on the wall. Being that the PJ is 720p and my viewing distance is rather close, I want to make sure I don't see any obvious pixel structure before I settle on a screen size.

That said, what is the best way to set up the PJ and screen so they match up right? Many LCD PJ's have lens shift and make it pretty easy to line things up, but I know most low and midrange DLP's are much less flexible with placement and setup. So what do I do? Do I set up the PJ the way I like it first, then place the screen to line up with it? Should I do the screen first? Any easy, foolproof way to do this without screwing up and ending up a little bit off (that would bother me tremendously...unfortunately I'm a bit of a perfectionist)? Thanks in advance. The PJ is scheduled to arrive on Monday and I'd like to have a good game plan ready for when it arrives :D

Stephen

My two cents, would just table top it first, then move the PJ back and forth until you are satisfied with the picture on the wall as far as size, etc.

My two cents, would just table top it first, then move the PJ back and forth until you are satisfied with the picture on the wall as far as size, etc.

agreed.

:)

Thanks for the advice, guys. I just received the HC3000 today and was only able to use it for about an hour in a temporary spot. Even just projecting against a wall (and too high for comfort), I can already see why people can never go back to small TV's - especially for movies. I have a manual screen on order and will be wall mounting my 40" LCD on the wall to use for some gaming and other non-theatrical viewing ;). I'll keep everyone posted once I've ceiling mounted it, calibrated it, and have my screen all set up as well.

You will never look back, you are hooked as we are.:D:D:D. Congrats on the PJ world.

Thought I'd give an update...

I really like the HC3000 a lot. I just watched Iron Man (Blu-ray) on my projector with Matte White screen (1.0 gain) and the large screen (73" diagonal, 7.5 ft viewing distance) is a huge improvement over my 40" Samsung LCD. In terms of the cinematic experience, the HC3000 is great.

Unfortunately, I'm finding that the blacks and dark scenes in general are pretty gray. The PJ throw distance is a bit over 9 feet. I'm in low lamp mode with the iris closed and the black bars and dark scenes are still far from black. I asked before I purchased my screen if people thought I should go with matte white or perhaps a high contrast gray (say .8 gain) and everybody recommended white. I suppose I'm somewhat disappointed in the black levels. I'm not expecting pitch black, but the blacks are quite gray (at least shadow detail is good :)). I specifically mentioned that the room was very small and the throw distance would be pretty short, which is why I had considered a gray screen, but everybody seemed to think that matte white was the way to go. Again, I don't realistically expect perfection, but I'd like better blacks and contrast than I have now. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

You have a new bulb and a very small screen. As the bulb burns in it will lose brightness and the black levels will come around. If you went to a larger screen those black levels would improve quite a bit. Just physics at this point. A lot of light concentrated on a small, reflective surface, is going to light up that surface, unless the surface absorbs light (ie. gray screen). An easy test for what you are working with is to make your room as dark as you can, and look at your screen (projector off). What you see of the screen under those conditions represents the best possible "black" level you could hope to achieve in your room with the current set up/ ambient light levels. The projector can not make the screen "look" any blacker than that, during a projected image. Realistically, you'd be doing phenomenal to have those same levels during a "projected black".

Btw, I have the same projector with pretty much the same size screen (which was coated with a neutral DIY gray paint). The gray helps tremendously at our screen size, Every once in a while, i wish i'd gone with a darker grey because the image is still bright in low lamp mode and I still have some ambient light when my theatre (read livingrooom) is "dark". :D

Perceived image pop(Contrast, is tricky) I think my Mits looks better in High and iris open. If you put up a solid black image you'll see the extra brightness but while a DVD plays I feel the image is much more dynamic in high. I never run my PJ in low anymore once I got use to high. I have a Mits HC3000 and just bought a Shartp XV12000 MKII to get the best image, but its a really dim PJ that how it attains its blacks. after just 30 minutes of calibration I know now I'm selling it and just getting me a new bulb for my Mits. The MKII is a known videophile machine but I was sadly disappointed in the brightness. just me though but I recently got a 65 Olevia LCD flat screen and I think I'm out of the PJ world all together after playing Dead Space(PS3) vs the Sharp I just light a back lit TV better.

You have a new bulb and a very small screen. As the bulb burns in it will lose brightness and the black levels will come around. If you went to a larger screen those black levels would improve quite a bit. Just physics at this point. A lot of light concentrated on a small, reflective surface, is going to light up that surface, unless the surface absorbs light (ie. gray screen). An easy test for what you are working with is to make your room as dark as you can, and look at your screen (projector off). What you see of the screen under those conditions represents the best possible "black" level you could hope to achieve in your room with the current set up/ ambient light levels. The projector can not make the screen "look" any blacker than that, during a projected image. Realistically, you'd be doing phenomenal to have those same levels during a "projected black".

Btw, I have the same projector with pretty much the same size screen (which was coated with a neutral DIY gray paint). The gray helps tremendously at our screen size, Every once in a while, i wish i'd gone with a darker grey because the image is still bright in low lamp mode and I still have some ambient light when my theatre (read livingrooom) is "dark". :D

I'm totally tracking with you, and what you said is basically what I thought would be the case before I purchased the screen. It surprised me when people recommended I get a 1.0 gain matte white screen instead of a .8 high contrast gray screen. I realize my screen size is quite small, but again at my viewing distance of 7.5 feet it's pretty darn big ;). Then there's the issue of not having being able to set up the projector any farther back because my room is only about 10.5 feet deep. So it kind of looks like I need to make due with what I have.

Interestingly enough, I popped in the Blu-ray version of Black Hawk Down and the blacks didn't bother me nearly as much as they did in Iron Man. It's not that the blacks were perfectly inky in Black Hawk Down, but they did seem to have more depth and impact. Maybe it's just that Iron Man's dark scenes (such as the Cave scenes) aren't very dynamic, but compared to Black Hawk Down's dark scenes, Iron Man looked flat and dull. I suppose I'll have to test some more sources.

I'm also torn about whether I should pursue great black levels or if I should try brightening up my PJ settings to give the image more "pop" at the expense of black. I think the problem is I've grown accustomed to my 40" Samsung LCD. I've calibrated the TV (don't worry, it's not on the showroom Dynamic settings) with the backlight set to 4 out of 10, but even so it's brighter than the HC3000. The Mitsubishi seems a little dim in comparison. That said, I think I'll need to give myself a bit of time to get used to the look of watching movies at home with a projector instead of a TV. I have a feeling I'll adapt to it before too long and grow to prefer the projector's more realistic presentation over the LCD's somewhat overly bright picture. I guess time will tell. Thanks for the response.

I wouldn't use Iron Man as a reference for black levels. I felt even watching it on my CRT RPTV, the black levels in the caves were poorly shot, very little detail and just too dark in general. I'd watch some darker movies you're familiar with to get an idea as to what kind of black levels you should be expecting.

It took me a couple of weeks before I was happy with my contrast, color and black level settings. There is going to be a difference between the LCD and DLP technologies as well as the screen sizes and they likely will play into the performance you're able to achieve. The question is whether or not you can find the performance adequate or whether you prefer the smaller LCD's performance.

I'm used to watching movies in total darkness in a dedicated theater setup in my basement, however I do like watching sports with ambient lighting and fairly bright settings. I usually went with different memory settings for sports than I did for my movies and ultimately, I was pleased with the results.

Do some tweaking with video test patterns if you haven't already, give yourself some time to adjust to the changes as it usually takes a bit more than a week w/the same visual settings to adapt and you'll likely find some suitable settings for dark scene viewing, regardless of your room... -TD

Hey tomd51,

I'm glad you posted here again. You confirmed my suspicion that Iron Man had only so-so blacks. IMO they were flat and lacked both depth and detail. As I mentioned earlier, Black Hawk Down's dark night scenes were far more impressive.

Concerning my 40" Samsung LCD vs my HC3000, it's not even close. I already can't imagine watching another movie on the TV. Just for fun, last night when I threw in Black Hawk Down to test black levels and contrast, I watched a couple of scenes on the projector, then watched the same scenes on the LCD. What a joke! Trying to watch movie scenes on a mid-sized TV right after the projector made the Samsung seem like a toy. Not only that, but I think the HC3000 had deeper blacks as well. I noticed that the Mitsubishi had far better shadow detail. The only thing the LCD had a slight edge in was brightness in the daytime scenes. But the PJ seemed to have a more realistic presentation, while the TV's picture seemed a bit unrealistic and exaggerated.

Anyway, thanks for the replies. It might take a little bit of time to get used to the slightly dimmer picture of the PJ, but I think it's probably more accurate - and the size and impact is sure a ton more impressive! My room is completely light controlled, and the PJ really does look quite good. I'm sure with time it will only look better :)

The only advantage my RPTV has over the HC3000 is that I can watch sports with full room lighting and there are slightly better blacks in movies. The Mits has color, crispness and last but obviously not least, the screen size. It's sad when the 61" screen just doesn't match up to the 88"-92" screen :D, but honestly, IMO it's only for sports where there is an appreciable difference due to screen size, I don't notice it hardly at all watching movies, though my seating is only about 12' from the screen in both instances, so either one throws a fairly large picture. I can spot a slight bit of RBE on dark, smoky scenes, but it's only a minor distraction, doesn't bother me much and no one else has noticed it at all.

I hate to break it to you, but the more time you spend watching movies on the Mits, you'll have a hard time watching them on the 40" LCD again. I whine a little when the wife wants to watch a movie on the 42" Samsung plasma we have, not because the picture is bad, in fact it's great, it's just kinda weeny in comparison... :) -TD

Keep in mind too that even a so called 'light controlled' room will not be ideal when it comes to black levels if the room still has light colored/white walls . There is much more to light control than just blacking out windows and turning off the lights ;) , it means controlling room reflections as well .

- Jason

Keep in mind too that even a so called 'light controlled' room will not be ideal when it comes to black levels if the room still has light colored/white walls . There is much more to light control than just blacking out windows and turning off the lights ;) , it means controlling room reflections as well .

- Jason

So true. The best thing you can do for black level is to get rid of the light colored ceiling and walls. Non reflective dark paint and your black level will greatly increase. Now if I could just sell the wife on this. :D

Keep in mind too that even a so called 'light controlled' room will not be ideal when it comes to black levels if the room still has light colored/white walls . There is much more to light control than just blacking out windows and turning off the lights ;) , it means controlling room reflections as well .

- Jason

Great point. Unfortunately I have white ceilings but I don't think there's much I can do about it right now. My walls are also a somewhat light blue. Since I'm still living at home and going to college, my setup is in my bedroom so I can't really make all of the changes I'd like to make. Once I have my own place I'll do my best to create a room that provides optimal HT conditions ;)

DaGamepimp beat me too it but that was really the point of my post. Even on a white screen the screen is not the only limiting factor. What appears to be a dark room is not so dark anymore when light is bouncing all around from your white screen AND your nearly as bright walls and ceilings. Hell the power on LED of my Toshiba HD player throws enough light (unfortunately directly at the screen) that I can see the picture washout ever so slightly. I leave a small caped crusader (Batman) figure in fornt of the LED to block the light. I think the electrician's tape would be way too tacky (no pun intended).

Long story short that slightly dull image will gain in pop and depth, the more you can control the light in the room. As for black level and detail, one of my favorite scenes is the last star wars (ROTS) the opening sequence. There are scenes that have deep-space as the background which is differentiated from the "space" nearer the planet which is ever so lighter. Best part is the explosions that take place with deep space as the background, leave dark (very near to perceived "black") clouds which show up against the darker still background of deep space!!! Everytime I see the Scene I think to myself, that is just too f***in' cool!!:cool:

I have the HC3000 as well. I thought it looked very good on a white wall and with white ceilings and no screen. I finished my room by painting it dark, satin walls and ceiling and flat screen wall. Bought a 1.5 gain white screen and the pic looks great. I think due to the low lumens of the pj, you need light control or a high gain screen. I think anything under 1.0 is too low and the wrong screen for the pj.

To me, the hc3000 seems VERY bright actually.

> Great point. Unfortunately I have white ceilings but I don't think there's much I can do about it right now

If you'd get a reflective type of screen, the white walls and ceiling would have less effect because the screen will reflect less light in their direction (glass-beaded Da-Lite High Power screen or similar).

I will be selling my trusty hc3000 soon. Will buy a fresh bulb for it.

:)

nvm

Well I got my new bulb today, and the PJ is rocking better than ever. My first bulb had a flicker when on high(Standard) and it went out at about 950 hours. The new one seems rock solid like it should and I hope it will last longer - I want to get 2000+ like a lot of people do. Anyway I bought the Sharp MKII but the fan is a joke compared to the HC3000 and I'm positive that my HC3000 focus is better then at least the MKII I bought. EVERY PIXEL on the HC3000 is razor sharp edge to edge to edge extremely defined, I could not do that with my X1,SP4805 or the MKII( I think the optics were a tad off) the MKII was a very dim PJ and if you have a Bat Cave will deliver very nice blacks but I have no idea why those who have a bat cave would put up with is fan noise(not that its the worst ever but the HC3000 esp in low is like a feather duster). The HC3000 is the 4th DLP I've owned and I know now I wouldn't trade/sell it for the world. If your new to this thread I'd take up anyones offer to sell theirs. Once you have a very silent PJ theres no going back. I'm now going to invest in some black cloth for my walls to further push the image that I'm already in love with.

Hi all,

I've had the HC3000 for a little while so I can give some more impressions now. First, I've realized that I'm unfortunately susceptible to rainbows. I don't see them everywhere, but in dark scenes with small lighter parts I see them quite a bit. Any moving white on a dark background results in rainbows galore. They aren't a deal breaker, but I'm a bit bummed. I didn't realize I would be affected because I've watched TV on a friend's Samsung DLP TV (don't know what model) plenty of times and not noticed any rainbows. That said, I knew it was a possibility. I rolled the dice and lost in that regard, but I still enjoy the picture.

Second, black levels are ok but I'd really like them to be deeper. Right now I'm using a 1.0 matte white screen. I'm projecting a 73" 16x9 image from about 9'4" in a room with no ambient light with a white ceiling and light blue walls. I'm on low lamp mode with the iris closed. I think I might try switching out the screen for a .8 high contrast gray screen. I don't find brightness lacking so I think I have plenty of lumens, and I think a gray screen will give me richer blacks and a little more pop. Don't get me wrong, I really like the image the HC3000 throws, but better blacks would be great.

Finally, I unfortunately have a spot near the top of the projected image that seems to be "paler" than the rest of the image. It isn't always noticeable, but it's a vertical "white" section that's maybe 1" wide that goes from the top of the projected image down about 6-8" or so. I usually see it against the top black bar on a movie filmed in 2.35:1. Again, it isn't always apparent, but I can see it especially during dark scenes. Not sure if this is normal or not. I thought it might be an inconsistency in the screen, because my screen is pretty cheap, but I shifted the projector's position and it was still there. Any idea as to what it might be? Sorry I don't have any pictures, but I'm just curious if anyone else has had this happen. I know DLP TV's can be known to have "hot spots" and I don't know if this is something like that.

Anyway, any input would be appreciated. By and large, I really love the HC3000, so I hope this hasn't given the impression that I don't like it. The large image is great, colors are excellent, and overall image quality is very enjoyable. The only issues I have are that rainbows are a bit of a downer, blacks could be inkier (though a HC gray screen could help a lot with that), and the strange "washed out/white" bit of the top of the screen is a little odd. I guess that ends my impressions for now.

Stephen

You really should try the grey screen. I think some of the folks dismissing this option have much larger screens. You do have enough light (actually may have more than you need for the size screen, hence the grey). As for the rainbows, I think the grey may help with that as well. At the very least they tend to subside after the bulb dims a bit. I always see them with a new bulb but after a while I only see them under specific conditions. In either case, I think you should give grey a try (insert UPS slogan- What can grey do for you?":D)

You really should try the grey screen. I think some of the folks dismissing this option have much larger screens. You do have enough light (actually may have more than you need for the size screen, hence the grey). As for the rainbows, I think the grey may help with that as well. At the very least they tend to subside after the bulb dims a bit. I always see them with a new bulb but after a while I only see them under specific conditions. In either case, I think you should give grey a try (insert UPS slogan- What can grey do for you?":D)

I suspect that as well. Compare a 73" screen from ~9 1/2' with a 92" screen from 11 1/2' and I think there will be significantly lower black levels on the larger screen with a longer throw. I think I will try a gray screen. I'll probably keep my matte white screen so I can compare, and if the bulb gets really dim over time it gives me options as well. After all it's just a pull down screen and I can swap it out in a couple of minutes if I want to.

Were you ever able to try a grey screen in your set-up? I just sat down to a movie last night (was on vacation and now i'm back, with visiting family to boot!). My uncle was simply floored. A while back his son purchased a 60in lcd (Mits or Sony, can't remember) and he has been on and on about "theater experience this" and "wow factor that". Forget about the fact that this thing is a behemoth, taking up a large portion of real estate in a not so grand family room. I think the combination of an awesome picture, smaller footprint, by a factor of at least ten, with a lower price and larger image, really sold him. The best part was when he said, "oh, my god, do you realize, that when you move all you will have to do is tuck that thing under your arm?. I had to help my son bring that thing into the basement!" I replied, that "the idea had never even dawned on me":rolleyes:

Guess the point of that was try a grey screen... yeah. That's it:D

Seriously tho, you can even try a relatively inexpensive experiment that will allow you to try a few shades of grey to see what you like best. You can purchase a small artist canvas, 18x24 (under $10) or thereabouts and a few pints of successively darker neutral gray, say from 8.5 to 7 (in .5 increments). If you paint the lightest first, you can keep painting over it with darker tints, until you approve, run out of darker shades or just get plain bored;). Assuming of course, you'd consider painting a screen. Even if you wouldn't, it should still give you an idea of how dark you want to go with a commercial screen. Won't say it is a cure for all that ails you, but the grey certainly works in my set up and I started with white. I chickened out at about 8 on the Munsell (sp.) scale of neutral grey. Probably could have gotten away with 7.5 until the bulb was dim (even on high).

Were you ever able to try a grey screen in your set-up? I just sat down to a movie last night (was on vacation and now i'm back, with visiting family to boot!). My uncle was simply floored. A while back his son purchased a 60in lcd (Mits or Sony, can't remember) and he has been on and on about "theater experience this" and "wow factor that". Forget about the fact that this thing is a behemoth, taking up a large portion of real estate in a not so grand family room. I think the combination of an awesome picture, smaller footprint, by a factor of at least ten, with a lower price and larger image, really sold him. The best part was when he said, "oh, my god, do you realize, that when you move all you will have to do is tuck that thing under your arm?. I had to help my son bring that thing into the basement!" I replied, that "the idea had never even dawned on me":rolleyes:

Guess the point of that was try a grey screen... yeah. That's it:D

Seriously tho, you can even try a relatively inexpensive experiment that will allow you to try a few shades of grey to see what you like best. You can purchase a small artist canvas, 18x24 (under $10) or thereabouts and a few pints of successively darker neutral gray, say from 8.5 to 7 (in .5 increments). If you paint the lightest first, you can keep painting over it with darker tints, until you approve, run out of darker shades or just get plain bored;). Assuming of course, you'd consider painting a screen. Even if you wouldn't, it should still give you an idea of how dark you want to go with a commercial screen. Won't say it is a cure for all that ails you, but the grey certainly works in my set up and I started with white. I chickened out at about 8 on the Munsell (sp.) scale of neutral grey. Probably could have gotten away with 7.5 until the bulb was dim (even on high).

Thanks for your interest. I actually have not tried a gray screen. I decided to at least try a cheaper route first and spend about $25 on a ND2 filter. It does exactly what it's supposed to do - I just need to decide if what it does is what I prefer :cool:. Blacks are certainly deeper (though nowhere near "inky"), but of course the whole picture is somewhat dimmer due to the decreased light output. It seems as though I have to choose between a bright, vivid picture and blacks that are deeper than medium-grey.

It wouldn't bother me so much except for the fact that I see pictures like this posted all over AVS:

http://members.shaw.ca/BJOTF/CR-1.jpg

Now I realize some people use masking - not sure if this person does or not. But many peoples' pictures have "black bars" that look black, not gray. It could be that their cameras make the blacks look deeper than they really are as well. My PJ, even with no ND2 filter, the iris opened, and the PJ on normal lamp mode, looks nowhere near as bright as that while also having very light blacks. Adding the ND2 filter, closing the iris, and running the PJ on low lamp mode helps with blacks, but then the picture is a good deal dimmer. I'll keep tweaking and maybe sometime learn about how to calibrate it accurately. For now, I'm pretty happy with PQ overall, but it's just frustrating to see these incredible, dynamic screenshots all over AVS that I've never been even close to approaching with my PJ.

For one, screenshots are no real way to do any kind of comparisons of projectors, snapshots rarely can capture how solid the real projected images look. You're also trying to compare a sub $1,000 projector with a $2500-3,000 projector in the Epson HC 1080UB, so you're not necessarily comparing apples to apples.

I realize you have limitations on what you can change in your viewing area, but I think some of the things previously suggested will have an impact on how well you can get things to your liking. I'm sure the more you get familiar w/the HC3000 and things you get to change/tweek, you'll improve your image over time...

For one, screenshots are no real way to do any kind of comparisons of projectors, snapshots rarely can capture how solid the real projected images look. You're also trying to compare a sub $1,000 projector with a $2500-3,000 projector in the Epson HC 1080UB, so you're not necessarily comparing apples to apples.

I realize you have limitations on what you can change in your viewing area, but I think some of the things previously suggested will have an impact on how well you can get things to your liking. I'm sure the more you get familiar w/the HC3000 and things you get to change/tweek, you'll improve your image over time...

Good points. I understand that there are a ton of factors to consider. The people who post these screenshots have different projectors, screen sizes/materials, throw distances, calibrations, and the camera itself introduces its own effects on the image as well. I also don't expect the world and I realize this is a $3000 PJ from 3-4 years ago, so surely it won't match up to the $3000 PJ's of today. The best thing I guess is to keep making little adjustments here and there. Maybe I'll find a way to get the ceiling darker.

For now, I really do like the PJ, and I hope I don't overemphasize its deficiencies too much. It throws a great picture, is relatively quiet, and has greatly enhanced my HT experience. It was a steal for $600. If I hadn't seen the screenshots others have posted I think I'd be 100% happy with it (other than rainbows, but I knew about that possibility coming in). I think I'll see if I can borrow a camera and take some pictures of my own PJ. It'll give me at least SOME idea of whether peoples' cameras are making their blacks look deeper than they really are. I have a hard time believing that cheap <$3000 PJ's can produce blacks that look absolutely limitless in depth. Thanks for the responses. I can see how this PJ thing gets to be addictive :D.

This is one screenshot I took some time ago that shows some decent blacks. Granted my picture taking skills bite and I'm unable (or don't know how) to lower the ISO settings enough when taking projector screenshots, but it gives you some idea as to how dark it can go and still produce a good picture.

This was taken with the HC3000 in economy mode, BrilliantColor on and is a bit brighter in real life than the picture shows, but the darks are still pretty solid. My screen is a 92" laminate DIY that's close to 1.0 gain. I have red to maroon colored satin finish wallpaper in a faux rag finish that doesn't reflect much light along with a drop ceiling in which I painted the panels a flat midnight blue that don't pick up hardly any reflection. I also have merlot/maroon theater curtain panels surrounding the screen, so they eat any light coming from the screen as well...

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj311/tdonaghue/Mitsubishi%20HC3000U%20Pics/TheDeparted-Blu-ray21.jpg

Those blacks are excellent, and you say that they aren't much lighter in person. My black levels aren't anywhere near that deep. Obviously my stupid white ceiling is playing a large part it reducing my black levels by reflecting light all over the place. Again, not sure if I can do anything about it or not, but I appreciate your feedback. I'll look into what I can do to help things. Thanks again.

They are pretty solid. I've gone from (and back to) my Hitachi rear projection TV, which has excellent black levels and the HC3000 wasn't far off in a good balanced mode between color accuracy, lighting and black levels. Again, the surrounding environment in which I'm projecting is specifically for a dedicated theater setup and is in my basement, so ambient light is non-existant when I don't want it.

I'm sure you'll get to where you want it at some point, or like most of us, succumb to the never-ending battle against upgradeitis... :D -TD

Another thought just occurred to me. In addition to all of the things you have already tried you may also want to physically mask the light spill from the projector. I have been using (recently) a modified book end with a rectangular cut-out to block the "non-image light coming from the lens opening. In addition, I occasionally use something to block the faint light that seeps out from the front left (facing projector) filter slits. Every little bit helps. I usually take these extra steps for big release type viewing. Every single bit of non image light you can prevent from getting to the screen or a wall, makes the image pop that much more. It also darkens (by physically blocking) the grey bars, if you have any. Which reminds me of another point; have you used the shutter function to remove some of your extra projected image lines?

Another thought just occurred to me. In addition to all of the things you have already tried you may also want to physically mask the light spill from the projector. I have been using (recently) a modified book end with a rectangular cut-out to block the "non-image light coming from the lens opening. In addition, I occasionally use something to block the faint light that seeps out from the front left (facing projector) filter slits. Every little bit helps. I usually take these extra steps for big release type viewing. Every single bit of non image light you can prevent from getting to the screen or a wall, makes the image pop that much more. It also darkens (by physically blocking) the grey bars, if you have any. Which reminds me of another point; have you used the shutter function to remove some of your extra projected image lines?

Thanks for the tips.

Any pictures of your "modified book end with a rectangular cut-out?" It would help me visualize what you're doing if I could see it.

Also, what's this about the "shutter" function? As far as I know, I'm not using it and would like to check it out.

Thanks again.

Not completely sure, but they might be referring to the iris function, but I think you've tried that. If you haven't, definitely do so....

Not completely sure, but they might be referring to the iris function, but I think you've tried that. If you haven't, definitely do so....

That was my guess. Yep, I've used the iris and it certainly does help. I'll see what I can do about the other light spillage :)

Well guys, just an update. Today I made some DIY screen masks for my pull down screen and the improvement in picture quality while using the masks is absolutely huge. The image has more pop, where before it seemed a little dull and disappointing - especially compared to the vivid pictures people keep posting. I think in order to make the distracting gray bars darker I was reducing the brightness of my HC3000 so much that the image lost all of its "three-dimensionality". It was a flat, rather unexciting picture, but my intolerance for light gray bars kept me from making the picture brighter. With the masking I can increase the brightness, which has added a lot of life to the picture. The masking also gives the picture much better contrast IMO. Overall, this masking has practically bought me a new projector. I'm thrilled with PQ now and I'm really liking what the HC3000 can do :). Thanks to everyone who already recommended masking as well as other possible fixes for my PJ experience. I figured it would help, but I'm blown away by how much of an improvement it brings. Thanks again.

Stephen

That's great to hear, Stephen. :cool:

Funny how much one little change like that can make, which makes it easier to understand how your environment can make as much of an impact if not more than the projector itself... -TD

Sorry things have been so crazy I haven't had any time to check the boards. Don't know if you've figured out the shutter function yet. It is not the iris. It is a separate and distinct feature. I am not sure whether it is mechanical or electronic but it can be found on the same menu page as vert sync and overscan. There's an upper, lower, right and left shutter. It is a sort of internal masking thing. Using the function darkens the gray bars above, below or to the left and right of an image. It's like a virtual iris that you can use to block an individual line of pixels. I set up the PJ so long ago i forgot about it in my first few responses. To use the function, center your image and start to increase the number on one of the shutter functions (say Shutter L). As you increase one by one, there will be a point where you will see lines of image disappear from that part of the image (in our example the vertical edge of the L side of the image will disappear one pixel width). Make sure you see that one pixel width edge disappearing. Once you see it go, you will work backwards (vertical edge increases with each decrease in the number of Shutter L function until you reach the first number where no additional edge appears. This is where you want to set the function. Do the same procedure with Shutter R, Shutter U, etc. You should see a nice decrease in gray bar lightness (unless your masking has already solved the problem). As for the modified book end, I will try to post a picture (have had varying levels of success posting pics) but essentially any straight edged object can be placed in front of and to the left (where more light spills) of the lens. You should actually see the light spill onto the object. I initially used commercial dvd cases stood up on end. Think domino stood up on its tallest axis, You can also clean up the light around the lens itself (think opaque lens cap with a rectangle cut out). You want the cut out to be as small as possible while allowing the entire image through. That is essentially what I did with the book end.

All a lot more straightforward then I made it sound, but I think you will get the gist.:D

Sorry things have been so crazy I haven't had any time to check the boards. Don't know if you've figured out the shutter function yet. It is not the iris. It is a separate and distinct feature. I am not sure whether it is mechanical or electronic but it can be found on the same menu page as vert sync and overscan. There's an upper, lower, right and left shutter. It is a sort of internal masking thing. Using the function darkens the gray bars above, below or to the left and right of an image. It's like a virtual iris that you can use to block an individual line of pixels. I set up the PJ so long ago i forgot about it in my first few responses. To use the function, center your image and start to increase the number on one of the shutter functions (say Shutter L). As you increase one by one, there will be a point where you will see lines of image disappear from that part of the image (in our example the vertical edge of the L side of the image will disappear one pixel width). Make sure you see that one pixel width edge disappearing. Once you see it go, you will work backwards (vertical edge increases with each decrease in the number of Shutter L function until you reach the first number where no additional edge appears. This is where you want to set the function. Do the same procedure with Shutter R, Shutter U, etc. You should see a nice decrease in gray bar lightness (unless your masking has already solved the problem). As for the modified book end, I will try to post a picture (have had varying levels of success posting pics) but essentially any straight edged object can be placed in front of and to the left (where more light spills) of the lens. You should actually see the light spill onto the object. I initially used commercial dvd cases stood up on end. Think domino stood up on its tallest axis, You can also clean up the light around the lens itself (think opaque lens cap with a rectangle cut out). You want the cut out to be as small as possible while allowing the entire image through. That is essentially what I did with the book end.

All a lot more straightforward then I made it sound, but I think you will get the gist.:D

I tried the shutter functions and this doesn't really help. There is a small difference if it's a 2.xx:1 image. If that's what you meant then I guess technically it does help, however, it can only be seen if the brightness is very high.

The best way to see what I'm talking about is to play a movie with a 2.xx:1 aspect ratio and turn up the brightness (up in the +20 or higher range; you're not going to leave it there) so you can see the entire illuminated area (1280x768).

Now adjust the shutter functions and you can see that you still get the minimum luminance being projected over the areas you just shuttered.

So, unless I'm misunderstanding something, the shuttering doesn't do anything when using normal brightness settings.

Just a few more questions for HC3000 owners...

Is anybody using a PS3 with their HC3000? In the PS3 display menu, should RGB be set to "Full" or "Limited" for this projector? Mine is currently set to "Limited"

In the PS3 display menu, should Superwhite be set to "On" or "Off" with this projector? Mine is currently set to "On"

In the PS3 video menu, should BD/DVD Video Output Format be set to "Automatic," "RGB," or "Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr?" Mine is currently set to "Auto"

Thanks for any input. I am admittedly not nearly as knowledgeable on the video side of things as on the audio side, and I feel like I know (or THINK I know) enough to simply be more confused than if I knew nothing...

JS23,

I don't set my projector anywhere near that high. It's in low (eco) mode and nearly always has the iris closed. I know it worked (fairly well actually) in my set up because I could see the "darkness" move in one line at a time as I increased the shutter function. I guess it could be a function of my specific set-up, but I doubt it. Night and day difference, no, of course not. But, it should be easily discernible when the function is engaged properly. If memory serves (and it is always suspect where I am concerned:o) it was readily noticeable. Besides, achieving good black levels is a process, and since these tweaks are cumulative, every bit helps :)

I can get away with a low lumen setting cause i have a fairly small screen as projectors go. I think LaLakersfan has a similar sized screen, so I figured what woeks for me might work for him.

JS23,

I don't set my projector anywhere near that high. It's in low (eco) mode and nearly always has the iris closed. I know it worked (fairly well actually) in my set up because I could see the "darkness" move in one line at a time as I increased the shutter function. I guess it could be a function of my specific set-up, but I doubt it. Night and day difference, no, of course not. But, it should be easily discernible when the function is engaged properly. If memory serves (and it is always suspect where I am concerned:o) it was readily noticeable. Besides, achieving good black levels is a process, and since these tweaks are cumulative, every bit helps :)

I can get away with a low lumen setting cause i have a fairly small screen as projectors go. I think LaLakersfan has a similar sized screen, so I figured what woeks for me might work for him.

I run my projector in the eco mode as well. I can also see the "darkness" move in one line at a time over the picture NOT the black area (i.e. non-picture area) of the image.

I don't doubt you are seeing what you say you see it's just that I don't see it at all (nor did my wife). Out of curiosity what are your Contrast and Brightness settings? Mine are 1 & 0 respectively (or maybe 0 & -1, I can't recall right now).

I previously calibrated the projector with DVE through an A3 HD-DVD player. I plan on calibrating my projector with an EyeOne Pro and the Greyscale for Dummies Guide during my Christmas shutdown so I'm sure all of my settings will end up changing.

If using the shuttering functions can decrease my black levels at all, I'm all for it. I'm just not getting the benefit you're describing.

You make a good point about screen size. I'm projecting a 109" - 113" image (in a light controlled room) with a seating distance of 13-14 feet. I'm also projecting unto a slight gray screen (I'm using Behr Silver Screen paint). I also have the areas around my screen, the walls, and ceiling painted black out to within 3-4 feet of the screen.

You are probably at a much higher brightness level to begin with then I am. Perhaps the equivalent of me being in the 20+ range??? Like I said earlier, I can definitely see the effect when my brightness is higher but not at where I am right now.

And just to be sure, you have to adjust your shuttering for each and every movie correct?

Ok, now you have me thinking. Really don't play with my settings too much anymore. I set up the shutter function when I calibrated the projector. I definitely don't re-adjust or size on a per movie basis (so maybe I am not using the function correctly). I guess it is possible that the effect I saw worked for the calibration disk and isn't affecting my real movie watching. I also have the Toshiba but at the time I set up my system, I was using a Philips 963sa dvd player.

When I get my system back on line I will test to see. I am currently swapping out my Pioneer 1014 receiver for an Onkyo 805 (Merry X-mas to me!). I also use a DIY grey screen (Benjamin Moore paint off the neutral grey thread). Probably be a while before all is up and running. Apparently I need to order a USB to RS 232 cable to make updates to my brand new receiver, or run the risk of blowing out my speaker (or so i've read on the 805 thread). You may be right, and it has been a while since I set up the PJ, but i'm "pretty sure" it made a difference in my set up (otherwise I would probably left the function unused). In either case the manual doesn't really say much, so it's not much help.

It may be a function of my scall screen. You say you notice it working at higher light settings. When I set my shutter function the bulb was nearly new and I have a small screen of 8? inches or so. The actual amount of light on your screen at high might be the equivalent of my current low setting, making the adjustment more noticeable to me on eco mode than for you at the "same" setting.

In any case I thought i'd throw it out there as it might help someone else. Won't hold my hand to a stack of bibles on it though.

Anyone else use this function recently and notice an improvement???

I want to ask a quick question for those of you that own the HC3000......I was planning on purchasing an Optoma HD65 but just got an offer for the HC3000(which I wasnt even considering) What is the overall feel of this pj? How does it compare to the HC1500 and would I be happier with it over the Optoma? Any input on this unit would be greatly appreciated. I would read this LONG thread but I have to act fast if Iwant this deal. Thanks for your help

Is this projector for a living room, some lights on and windows, or a dedicated room, no lights on and windows blacked out?

bguzman

Is this projector for a living room, some lights on and windows, or a dedicated room, no lights on and windows blacked out?

bguzman

Basement theater...one small window that is basically blacked out. Mostly used with lights out but would like to use with some lights on once in a while for parties etc. The room itself is not a dedicated theater as it is open on one side to a bar area and no door to the upstairs

What is the ceiling height? HC3000 has a larger offset than the HD65. This means that it must be placed higher, ceiling mount, or lower, shelf mount in relationship to the screen. Speaking of screens, how far will the front of the projector be from the screen wall? What size screen are you looking for? This might seem like a lot of questions but the last thing you want is the perfect projector for your neighbor's room.

What is the ceiling height? HC3000 has a larger offset than the HD65. This means that it must be placed higher, ceiling mount, or lower, shelf mount in relationship to the screen. Speaking of screens, how far will the front of the projector be from the screen wall? What size screen are you looking for? This might seem like a lot of questions but the last thing you want is the perfect projector for your neighbor's room.

Too many questions is my nickname. The ceiling height is 7'2"(drop ceilings) and I have to ceiling mount it. The room is a little over 17' long x 13' wide. I wanted a 120" but the pj comes with a 110"

Your ceiling height seals the deal for the HD65. For a 110" screen the height of the screen is 54". If you add it all up;

54" screen height
18" offset
6" mount - guess

For a total of 78", that puts your image 8" off the floor and that's to low. Even flush to the ceiling makes it 14" and that's to low.

HD65 has a 10" offset so the image will be 22" off the floor. Closer to the center of the screen at eye level and give you some adjusting room.

bguzman

Your ceiling height seals the deal for the HD65. For a 110" screen the heigth of thr screen is 54". If you add it all up;

54" screen height
18" offset
6" mount - guess

For a total of 78", that puts your image 8" off the floor and that's to low. Even flush to the ceiling makes it 14" and that's to low.

HD65 has a 10" offset so the image will be 22" off the floor. Closer to the center of the screen at eye level and give you some adjusting room.

bguzman

Thanks for your help it is greatly appreciated. Although I wanted to hear the opposite as this deal is a good one BUT atleast I wont have the perfect fit for my neighbor and I can stick with the one I was originally after. Thanks

Do you think 120" diag. is too large for my room?

Thanks for your help it is greatly appreciated. Although I wanted to hear the opposite as this deal is a good one BUT atleast I wont have the perfect fit for my neighbor and I can stick with the one I was originally after. Thanks

Do you think 120" diag. is too large for my room?

Depends on your planned sitting distances from the screen. Generally you do not want to be sitting much closer than 1.5 times the screen width for a 720p projector. A 120" 16:9 screen is 105" inches wide which places you at a little over 13 feet from the screen for 1.5x viewing. Anything closer is going to seem pretty large not to mention possible resolution issues.

I have a HC3000 in a similar size theater and use a 104" screen.

Depends on your planned sitting distances from the screen. Generally you do not want to be sitting much closer than 1.5 times the screen width for a 720p projector. A 120" 16:9 screen is 105" inches wide which places you at a little over 13 feet from the screen for 1.5x viewing. Anything closer is going to seem pretty large not to mention possible resolution issues.

I have a HC3000 in a similar size theater and use a 104" screen.

I will be sitting about 15-16 feet away with only 1 row

Just a couple things to consider ;) ...

The HC3000 has several inches of digital image shift available when sending 16:9 and it also throws a better image than the HD65 . There are also many more reported issues with the HD65 vs. the HC3000 . I would sacrifice some image size for an over-all better image and more reliable projector any day (just my opinion of course) .

I have owned a couple Optoma's (not an HD65) and the HC3000 , I have seen the HD65 several times however .

Best of Luck ,
- Jason

Just a couple things to consider ;) ...

The HC3000 has several inches of digital image shift available when sending 16:9 and it also throws a better image than the HD65 . There are also many more reported issues with the HD65 vs. the HC3000 . I would sacrifice some image size for an over-all better image and more reliable projector any day (just my opinion of course) .

I have owned a couple Optoma's (not an HD65) and the HC3000 , I have seen the HD65 several times however .

Best of Luck ,
- Jason

I have read of problems of some sort on all projectors but I appreciate the input. As far a "better overall image" How can this be if the Optoma puts out 1600 Lumens and the HC3000 puts out only 1000?

More lumens doesn't = better image quality. As far as a low ceilings goes, mine is less than 8 feet. I shoot a 92" diagonal image with no problems with my HC3000U. It is mounted about three inches from the drop ceiling. I use a lot of image shift but I don't think it has affected my image quality.

I have read of problems of some sort on all projectors but I appreciate the input. As far a "better overall image" How can this be if the Optoma puts out 1600 Lumens and the HC3000 puts out only 1000?

I'll put this gently ... the HD65 in it's brightest modes is just plain ugly (sorry) and I highly doubt that anybody uses those modes unless they have the thing mounted in a sun room . Image quality is based on far more than just lumen's (as stated above) and I can assure you that the HC3000 in it's brightest modes (1000 lumen's) looks better than the HD65 at 1000 lumen's . Now if you are of the mindset that the brightest image and over saturated colors look better then the HD65 delivers in those areas and I'll admit it does offer a certain wow factor but once you dive into this hobby a bit you begin to realize just how bad an image based mostly on those factors can be (especially once you see some good projectors in action) . The Mitsu HC1600 is another prime offender in this regard (lumen's and over saturated colors) . The HD65 is a decent pj and certainly offers a little WOW for those that have never owned a projector but the HC3000 is superior in almost every aspect other than max lumen's .

If you feel the HD65 fits your needs/wants better then by all means go that route , we all have to make our own PJ choices :D .

I am not trying to sell you on the HC3000 in particular , just pointing out some general projector characteristics that you should be aware of when making a purchase ;) .

- Jason

I'll put this gently ... the HD65 in it's brightest modes is just plain ugly (sorry) and I highly doubt that anybody uses those modes unless they have the thing mounted in a sun room . Image quality is based on far more than just lumen's (as stated above) and I can assure you that the HC3000 in it's brightest modes (1000 lumen's) looks better than the HD65 at 1000 lumen's . Now if you are of the mindset that the brightest image and over saturated colors look better then the HD65 delivers in those areas and I'll admit it does offer a certain wow factor but once you dive into this hobby a bit you begin to realize just how bad an image based mostly on those factors can be (especially once you see some good projectors in action) . The Mitsu HC1600 is another prime offender in this regard (lumen's and over saturated colors) . The HD65 is a decent pj and certainly offers a little WOW for those that have never owned a projector but the HC3000 is superior in almost every aspect other than max lumen's .

If you feel the HD65 fits your needs/wants better then by all means go that route , we all have to make our own PJ choices :D .

I am not trying to sell you on the HC3000 in particular , just pointing out some general projector characteristics that you should be aware of when making a purchase ;) .

- Jason

Well i certainly appreciate all of your input. I was simply asking about lumens to gain knowledge. With all this said. What is a gently used HC3000 worth on the used market? This way I can gage if this offer is worth the price.

Depends upon the number of lamp hours used (rated for 3000 in eco / 2000 in high) , was it in Economy lamp mode or High mode , any smokers in the house , adult owned and operated ( proper care taken when using ... frequent lamp strikes ? ) . Has it been professionally calibrated (ISF'd) ?

All of these factors play a part but I would have to say that a low hour properly functioning HC3000 with OE remote is worth no more than $700 in the current market (that's assuming no stuck mirrors on the DMD panel and no other issues) . A deal would be in the $500-$600 range and a no brainer would be in the $300-$400 range . I honestly feel the HC3000 is worth more than those amounts based upon its performance but the current market has seen some crazy deals on some even better models ;) .

Let me put it this way ... if I could buy a low hour perfectly working HC3000 right now for $500 or less I would jump all over it :D .

- Jason

Depends upon the number of lamp hours used (rated for 3000 in eco / 2000 in high) , was it in Economy lamp mode or High mode , any smokers in the house , adult owned and operated ( proper care taken when using ... frequent lamp strikes ? ) . Has it been professionally calibrated (ISF'd) ?

All of these factors play a part but I would have to say that a low hour properly functioning HC3000 with OE remote is worth no more than $700 in the current market (that's assuming no stuck mirrors on the DMD panel and no other issues) . A deal would be in the $500-$600 range and a no brainer would be in the $300-$400 range . I honestly feel the HC3000 is worth more than those amounts based upon its performance but the current market has seen some crazy deals on some even better models ;) .

Let me put it this way ... if I could buy a low hour perfectly working HC3000 right now for $500 or less I would jump all over it :D .

- Jason

Well it is adult owned. And has only 60-70 hrs on it but it is a bit higher priced than that but it comes with a 110" fixed screen and a ceiling mount. The people that are selling it still have it installed for me to go and take a look at it operating.

Well obviously the screen and mount increase the value , if it's a fixed frame of decent quality and a nice mount then the package could certainly be worth a good bit more . Getting to see all of it before hand is a great plus and only 60-70 hours is almost hard to believe but fantastic if true . Sounds like you might have come across a great package deal there :) .

- Jason

I havent seen it yet and honestly not having had a pj setup before I woldnt know what I am looking for or at. That said it is a 110" fixed mount frame and a ceiling mount that I am not sure the manufacturer of and the pj. It is all mine for $900.....as for the hours they said they have had it a year and only used it for movies. So worth it or a little over priced?

Well obviously the screen and mount increase the value , if it's a fixed frame of decent quality and a nice mount then the package could certainly be worth a good bit more . Getting to see all of it before hand is a great plus and only 60-70 hours is almost hard to believe but fantastic if true . Sounds like you might have come across a great package deal there :) .

- Jason

Isn't it also capable of showing the lamp reset counts? Then you can tell how many times the lamp has been replaced, 'cos it ain't just the lamp hrs, there's also the unit hrs to be concerned about (color wheel wear, etc.).

Ok the people that have it are the original owners and ahve had it about a year and a half. They are moving and have no place for it in the new house. They dont watch the pj much as its in their basement and only use it for movies. It has 6-070 orig hours. It comes with a 110" diagonal fixed screen and a ceiling mount. MY first question is it worth the now $800 price? or should I look around for a better deal?

Next up my room.....it is 17'long x 13' wide with 7'2" drop ceilings. My only row of seats will be about 16' back from the screen wall and I want to know if I can make this pj work for my room. Basically fit this included 110" screen as well as hang high enough so that noone hits their head on the unit when standing up? Please help me as I need to act swiftly here. And thanks for the help

With the offset of this PJ, I think it could pose a problem for the screen you are getting in the deal.

Here is the calculator for image size & distance:
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Mitsubishi-HC3000U-projection-calculator-pro.htm

Keeping in mind bguzman's post about the offset, you will be quite low to the floor with the projected image. Even if the image looks great, you still need to match the room limitations to your projector. I ended up buying the Sharp DT-500 specifically because it had a very low offset & I knew I could fit it in by basement without making the image look like it was nearly touching the floor. Be warned or be sorry. Do the math! ;)

With the offset of this PJ, I think it could pose a problem for the screen you are getting in the deal.

Here is the calculator for image size & distance:
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Mitsubishi-HC3000U-projection-calculator-pro.htm

Keeping in mind bguzman's post about the offset, you will be quite low to the floor with the projected image. Even if the image looks great, you still need to match the room limitations to your projector. I ended up buying the Sharp DT-500 specifically because it had a very low offset & I knew I could fit it in by basement without making the image look like it was nearly touching the floor. Be warned or be sorry. Do the math! ;)

I appreciate the help. I cant do the math because I dont know what I am doing. Does it list the actual offset on the specs of PJs? And since this one is so much maybe I better stay away then and stick with the Optoma HD65 as I had originally wanted

Of course, what you choose to buy is up to you. Jason made a case for the image of the HC3000, but I wouldn't say that means the HD65 is a bad PJ.

Is there any reason why you are not looking into the Sharp DT-510? At under $700, it is an excellent PJ that has only a minimal offset. Something to consider, but I don't want to hijack this thread if the discussion has become "what is best for me" or "tell me about the HD65 offset" rather than HC3000-specific questions (which is what this thread is for). Please start a new thread if you are looking for options, or post to the HD65 thread if you are looking for info specific to that PJ.

In any case, I think you are doing the right thing by staying away from a PJ that doesn't meet your needs. A good deal is only a good deal if it works in your room.

It wasnt a "will this work for me" topic. It was about the HC3000 and its value and specs and a small comparison to my original preference (hd65). No hijacking here just trying to learn a bit about the HC3000 and its offset and if it will work in my room. Thanks for the help:o

The bottom of a 110" Diagonal 16:9 screen would be about 12" from the floor with an 86" drop ceiling (assuming you can get the PJ close to the ceiling with the provided mount) . The screen would have 54" height so following the standard 1/3 rule (which is 18") that would put your 1/3 point at about 30 inches from the floor . This is a bit lower than the standard suggested image placement but is certainly not a problem for an average height person on average height seating (assuming no platforms are in use). Obviously the HD65 image would be higher up on the wall but then you are also going in the opposite direction a bit , meaning is it too high , do you get a kink in your neck from watching . If you plan to recline while watching then the HD65 is the better choice . Keep in mind when taking suggestions that most people do not follow the 1/3 rule but after years of using front projection I can tell you that it is suggested for a reason ;) .

* There is also a few inches of digital image shift on the HC3000 that can be used to raise the image a bit more if desired (when using 16:9) .

Hope that helps make your choice a bit easier , do what makes the most sense to you :) .

- Jason

The bottom of a 110" Diagonal 16:9 screen would be about 12" from the floor with an 86" drop ceiling (assuming you can get the PJ close to the ceiling with the provided mount) . The screen would have 54" height so following the standard 1/3 rule (which is 18") that would put your 1/3 point at about 30 inches from the floor . This is a bit lower than the standard suggested image placement but is certainly not a problem for an average height person on average height seating (assuming no platforms are in use). Obviously the HD65 image would be higher up on the wall but then you are also going in the opposite direction a bit , meaning is it too high , do you get a kink in your neck from watching . If you plan to recline while watching then the HD65 is the better choice . Keep in mind when taking suggestions that most people do not follow the 1/3 rule but after years of using front projection I can tell you that it is suggested for a reason ;) .

* There is also a few inches of digital image shift on the HC3000 that can be used to raise the image a bit more if desired (when using 16:9) .

Hope that helps make your choice a bit easier , do what makes the most sense to you :) .

- Jason

Well put and a ton of help thanks. Personally I didnt want to be stuck with the 110" but thats what comes with it. I wanted a 120" but am a little afraid of going "too" big. There will be no risers and reclining of course is a must--thats why theater seats recline :p

Glad I could help , we all have different needs/wants . I am the type that strives for maximum image quality above all else (even when doing so does not make the most sense) so I'm probably not the guy to listen to for practical advise ;) .

- Jason

You think going up to 120" is too much for the room and ceiling height?

Not if the room can do it (which technically your room can) , just keep in mind to leave enough room for speakers on the sides and below (or above) the screen (unless you are using an AT screen) . You might need a projector with good placement flexibility (lens shift) to pull it off properly (no keystone) but if you have the seating distance to go bigger then I say heck yeah why not :D .

You probably want to use a perm wall screen so you can get closer to the ceiling if needed , a pull down will use up more space above the actual screen due to the casing . Of course with a drop ceiling you can always conceal the case above the panels ;) .

- Jason

I'm in the process of looking for a used 720p projector ($500 is my budget) and came across someone selling an HC3000 for $450. Is that a good price? I know it's an older projector but I can't afford to fork out 1k for a new one. The new bulb only has 15 hrs on it. It's gonna be paired with a 106 inch Panoview Graywolf II Electric screen. I also get to demo it next week. The room will be 11x17 and won't have any ambient light.

Thanks for any input.

:confused: :( :confused:

The hc3000 is a great 720p projector. That is also a real nice price, especially with so little bulb hours. I have had one for about a year now, and am still quite happy with it.

If that is the true lamp hours, I'd buy it. I love my HC3000.

Do you know where I can find screenshots of this projector in action?
I can't find any in this forum. Can you post some here?

Question Is $450 a good price for a used HC3000 ???

Answer YES! :D

Thanx bguzman, i just hope the demo goes well.
What do you recommend for a calibration disk?

AVSHD709

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496

It's also free :)


Like he says it's free and it works. I've used many from DVE, Digital Video Essentials, SD and HD DVD, to the THX optimizer on The Incredibles. They all do about the same considering most of us don't have perfect rooms anyway.

bguzman

Thanx for all the input so far.

:D

I still have my Mitsubishi HC3000 and it's a great 720p projector. For $450 it's a steal! Grab it before someone else does.

I'm in the process of looking for a used 720p projector ($500 is my budget) and came across someone selling an HC3000 for $450. Is that a good price? I know it's an older projector but I can't afford to fork out 1k for a new one. The new bulb only has 15 hrs on it. It's gonna be paired with a 106 inch Panoview Graywolf II Electric screen. I also get to demo it next week. The room will be 11x17 and won't have any ambient light.

Thanks for any input.

:confused: :( :confused:

I paid 5x that amount when I got mine (no longer have it) and it was worth every penny. I would buy one right now for $450 with a brand new lamp, great deal in my opinion :).

Here is a screen shot from my old HC3000 (ISF'd) at 120 inches with Call of Duty 4 via the Xbox 360... remember that screen shots are just for fun and you should never base a purchase on screen shots ;).

http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv81/DGP_bucket/12-12-07_HT_Shots078.jpg

Jason

Thanx for the shot Pimp, I'll be using it mainly for watching Blu-Ray movies and some PS3 gaming. I'll eventually hook up another DirecTV HD receiver to it, cause I watch a lot of sports on my 5 year old Panny Plasma (still looks great for being an EDTV, yeah it's that old, lol)

What your take on Blu-Ray movies on it ???

It looks great with Blu, just be sure to send it 720p as the HC3000 does not scale 1080p properly.

Jason

I've gone through 2 bulbs now with my Mits HC3000 the first one stated flickering at about 1000 hours, it and cracked at 1400, my recent bulb is flickering at 400 hours on it and is starting to miss strikes(the inevitable crack is on the way) . I love the PJ for what it does and cost me -$500 - but if every bulb is only going to last 1/3rd its rated life and and can't go on high mode because its flickers then I guess I have to Ebay it for $250 with out bulb if I could even get that. Love the Pj but its costing to much, I'd rather move to a more reliable one, as the HC1000 and HC1500/1600 both have issues with the flickering and bulbs, some say its a capacitor others just real crappy bulbs, whichever, its showing its ugly face too often.

I've gone through 2 bulbs now with my Mits HC3000 the first one stated flickering at about 1000 hours, it and cracked at 1400, my recent bulb is flickering at 400 hours on it and is starting to miss strikes(the inevitable crack is on the way) . I love the PJ for what it does and cost me -$500 - but if every bulb is only going to last 1/3rd its rated life and and can't go on high mode because its flickers then I guess I have to Ebay it for $250 with out bulb if I could even get that. Love the Pj but its costing to much, I'd rather move to a more reliable one, as the HC1000 and HC1500/1600 both have issues with the flickering and bulbs, some say its a capacitor others just real crappy bulbs, whichever, its showing its ugly face too often.

Sorry to hear you're having problems. Mine is on the original lamp with around 1800 hours on it. I have always ran it on low lamp setting but I have gone through two lamp flicker cycles. It sounds like you might have a bad ballast or something going on in the projector, assuming you are using OEM lamps.

Sorry to hear you're having problems. Mine is on the original lamp with around 1800 hours on it. I have always ran it on low lamp setting but I have gone through two lamp flicker cycles. It sounds like you might have a bad ballast or something going on in the projector, assuming you are using OEM lamps.

+1

I had over 1700 hours on the original lamp when I sold my HC3000 (always in low power).

Sorry to hear it though rrhomes :(.

Jason

The most recent lamp works well on low, but on standard it starts flickering in 10 seconds, so we'll see. A bad ballast is part of the bulb right? So if I get a new bulb theres still a chance(I bought my last one at buy.com and figured it was OEM but you never know), next time I'm going to Provantage.com and I'm getting a bulb warranty. If its all most certainly the bulb then I still have faith because I can insure my next bulb, but I'd hate to be working against a capacitor deep in the unit, has a bad capacitor in these ever been confirmed?

OK. I got my HC3000 and I don't have the remote for it yet (had to order one) Now my question is, how do I know if the Iris is Opened or Closed?...or do I have to wait for the remote to arrive so I can find out?

You have to wait for the remote, its the only way to open or close it.

I had the same problem, though i have a harmony universal remote and it didn't have that command. If you also have a 8-pin din to serial cable you can use the serial commands to close the iris.
Originally i just took the projector apart and moved the iris down manually, but that isn't for everyone.

Thanx. The remote is arriving tomorrow. I have a few other questions. I'm running it with a Gray Wolf II 106" Electric Screen. I tried the demos, setting it up on a 3ft table 14ft back using projectorcentral screen size/throw specs and it looked awesome, but dim with Brilliant color on and low bulb setting. Standard setting it gets a little brighter, but the fan gets noticeably louder. Could it be cause I don't know iris location?. Are any of you running the same/similar screen configuration (retroreflective?). I really want to ceiling mount it, but everybody says ceiling mounting it will wash out the picture.
I started to calibrate it, but I don't have a blue filter to finish. Do you know of any retail stores Home Depot etc...where I can pick one up? Will the blue side of a pair of 3D glasses work?

Thanx for all the replies!!!

:D

about 6 years ago, with another PJ, I tried a gray screen and found the image way to dark for my tastes. Went with a matte white and have been content ever since. My hc3000 is ceiling mounted, using low lamp mode, firing onto a 106" screen and the image is plenty bright. Ceiling mounting will not wash out the image either. If your image is too dim, you might want to think about getting a white screen instead. If you have a tall ladder, it is easy enough to invert the PJ on the ladder and see how the image will look close to the ceiling.

I've gone through 2 bulbs now with my Mits HC3000 the first one stated flickering at about 1000 hours, it and cracked at 1400, my recent bulb is flickering at 400 hours on it and is starting to miss strikes(the inevitable crack is on the way) . I love the PJ for what it does and cost me -$500 - but if every bulb is only going to last 1/3rd its rated life and and can't go on high mode because its flickers then I guess I have to Ebay it for $250 with out bulb if I could even get that. Love the Pj but its costing to much, I'd rather move to a more reliable one, as the HC1000 and HC1500/1600 both have issues with the flickering and bulbs, some say its a capacitor others just real crappy bulbs, whichever, its showing its ugly face too often.


One thing that would be interesting to know... where did you buy your replacement bulb from? I learned as with many electronics supplies that there are varying levels in quality of replacement bulbs. I've recently put in a genuine Mitsu replacement after getting 2000 or so on the original (high).

You did mention your original was flickering also though, so there could be other factors or you might have just been unlucky twice. How's the electrical going to your PJ?


Finally, I'll echo all the other recommendations this PJ receives in this thread... I purchased this after MANY hours of due diligence here and elsewhere, and would do it again without hesitation.

I hope I don't break any rules. I just bought mine (last month) from purelandsupply (ebay store) to replace my lamp which had a little over 2000h on it. And I must say that the new one works perfectly. It made a world of difference in my case (120 inch screen). I had not realized how much less light I was getting on the screen (although I had trouble seeing shadows detail in the end before replacing the lamp).

Anyway, just to say I was really satisfied with the store where I bought my lamp.

My seond bulb I got at Buy.com, I wish I had oreded through Provantage.com they were about the same price and others have been very happy with the latter. My bulb now is striking then I hear what is like a crack then the 2nd strike, I feel I may have maybe 20 strikes left if it goes according to my first bulb. The 2nd buld seem legit but conterfits are perfect nowadays so who knows. Next time Im buying right off Mits site and getting a warranty or Im moving on to 1080P. Sad really as the Mits rocks nicely when all is well. But as it stands I will have paid $.75 and hour to watch it with this bulb failing soon. If I thought it was the bulbs and I could get 3000+ out of the next one I'd give the Mits a 3rd chance I like it so much, but I just can spen $3.00 a night to watch my PJ when I should be paying around 15 cents and hour.

Well, after one week of playing with the Mitsubishi, I decided to unload my trusty Epson 400.

This is probably my 8th PJ since 2002, from LCD to DLP and back-and-forth, including the HD1000, so I'm very familiar with the pros and cons of the Mitsu DLP series.

One rather interesting aspect is RBE, other than Sin City, I rarely see them since both PJs have same wheel speed, but DIFFERENT color wheels. Turning on and off BC has no impact for me. Comparing to the Infocus IN72/76, I do see RBE (both 6 segments and 4x). The size advantage of the Mitsu allows for traveling capability, comparing to the Epson. The latter took me a while to tweak but the Mitsu was a cinch to get the flesh tone correct.

The downside to the Mitsu is still light leakage.

Can someone provide an idiots guide to using the RGB brightness and contrast controls with DVE and/or AVIA? I have standard def Avia and DVE, and Blu-Ray DVE.

I'm not sure which patterns to use, if I need the color filters, etc...

Also, how do I calibrate gray scale? Is that done through calibrating the brightness and contrast?

Thanks for helping a confused HC3000 owner.

I would suggest you do some reading in the calibration area of this site http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=139
I would also suggest you pay a pro to calibrate your projector. I have been researching doing this myself and it does not seem to be worth buying inexpensive and inaccurate equipment for a DIY calibration. I have an HC3000 which is capable of amazing color and picture quality once calibrated or so everyone says. So why mess around, geterdone and geterdone correctly the first time.
Good luck!

I never noticed that forum seciton, thanks :) I've got some reading to do...

I search this thread but am still confused. I see in the PC.com review they say the HC3000 is sealed with no filter. In the users manual they show a cover and filter. In this thread folks talk about the filter and others mention the optional filter. I bought mine used and there is no filter or cover but there are holes for the cover as if it were there at one time.
Do I need to try and find these parts or is it truly optional and not something I need to worry about.
Thanks!

I just opened my manaul for the HC3000. It states that when using the projector in a dusty place, attach this filter cover. So, it seems that it is optional.

Thanks, do you use the filter?

airscapes,

Unless you are in an actual 'clean room' every room has dust in it (obviously) so I would suggest getting the filter/cover from Mitsu. The less dust that gets inside the PJ the better ;).

Jason

Well not finding much with google.. anyone have a link to a source for a filter and cover?

Call mitsubishi and see if they have the part. Part #761B421-30-from the manual.
1-800-450-6487
Customer care email-support@mitsubishielectric.ca.

Thanks, couldn't find that in my PDF version, will givem an call, thanks!

airscapes,

Unless you are in an actual 'clean room' every room has dust in it (obviously) so I would suggest getting the filter/cover from Mitsu. The less dust that gets inside the PJ the better ;).

Jason

Maybe, but a filter will also reduce airflow a little, that could raise operating temps a little, maybe even shortening lamp life.

Maybe this is why they don't include it.

fleaman,

It is an included filter with new/refurbed units and the cooling design of the HC3000 is such that the minimal % of air flow reduction would be insignificant ;).

* Plus now that I recall I was asked if I had installed the filter at one point by Mitsu tech support (when I went through 3 HC3000's, I used the filter) and when I asked why the tech stated because the filter should be in use during operation (even though that had nothing to do with the issues that I was having).

Jason

Call mitsubishi and see if they have the part. Part #761B421-30-from the manual.
1-800-450-6487
Customer care email-support@mitsubishielectric.ca.

Email bounced number not in service.. trying the number on their website for projector service..

Number for parts order is 1-888-307-8404 and the filter number for US is 761B421020 and $26.45 if anyone else should need it.
Thanks to all who responded

Ours has been making a high pitched whine for a couple months. Operates just fine but it is very annoying.

That is the sound of a faulty color wheel. It happened to mine as well. It was fixed under warranty.

Were you within the warranty period? I got this unit new but second hand.

Yes, I was in the warranty period. It was within the first year of purchase. They did ask me for a copy of my receipt when I sent it in.

I currently own a Mits HD1000U and have had it for 2.5 years and have loved the picture quality. I am thinking of buying a used HD3000 (not financially ready for the leap to 1080p) and was wondering if the 3000 has the same color wheel problem that the 1000 has. I am on my third color wheel which are very expensive so I am looking for an alternative to the 1000. I can get an HC3000 for $400 with 500 hrs., should I buy it? Need some advice here guys, please help. Thank you and happy new year.

I currently own a Mits HD1000U and have had it for 2.5 years and have loved the picture quality. I am thinking of buying a used HD3000 (not financially ready for the leap to 1080p) and was wondering if the 3000 has the same color wheel problem that the 1000 has. I am on my third color wheel which are very expensive so I am looking for an alternative to the 1000. I can get an HC3000 for $400 with 500 hrs., should I buy it? Need some advice here guys, please help. Thank you and happy new year.

Can anyone lend any help or advise on this subject, Pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeze. I really could use your expertise and guidance. Thank you.

Hi Guys and Happy New Year to Everyone,

Just bought a used HC3000 with 600 hours, was wondering if there is anything serious or even not serious that I should know about this projector before and during setup. Are there any quirks, can you pass along any settings, etc. without me having to go thru 114 pages on this thread. I would really appreciate your comments and suggestions on this projector. This will be replacing my HD1000U which is very similar to the HC3000. The reason I bought the HC3000 is because I have gone thru 3 defective color wheels on my 1000 and that gets very expensive plus it was time to buy a new lamp so I got the 3000 for just a little more than the cost of a new lamp. Anyway please give me your suggestions on what you have discovered thru your own personal use with the 3000. Thank you very much guys and I hope everyone has a great weekend.

I have checked basic calibrations settings (brightness, contrast, color) on my projector numerous times throught the three years I've had it (both standard definition and high definition DVE discs) and have not needed any adjustment to the brightness or contrast settings viewing dvd through my PS3 via hdmi. I have them both at zero. I think if you know what you are doing there are tweaks to the color settings that could be made, but overall my HC3000 just seems to work well out of the box. I don't know enough to fiddle with the RGB brightness and contrast settings (these are adjustable if you go into the user color settings). I've got around 1,600 hours on my bulb.

I really think the HC3000 is a pretty solid projector. I recently spent some time viewing an Optoma HD806 (~$2300 1080p projector) and walked away thinking I wouldn't pay to swap my HC3000 for that particular optoma. The optoma was better, but I wouldn't pay for the swap. I'm kind of curious if the Epson 1080p projector that costs around $1,600 would be a nice upgrade, but honestly I think I'll hang on to the HC3000 at least until the bulb breaks if not longer.

I have checked basic calibrations settings (brightness, contrast, color) on my projector numerous times throught the three years I've had it (both standard definition and high definition DVE discs) and have not needed any adjustment to the brightness or contrast settings viewing dvd through my PS3 via hdmi. I have them both at zero. I think if you know what you are doing there are tweaks to the color settings that could be made, but overall my HC3000 just seems to work well out of the box. I don't know enough to fiddle with the RGB brightness and contrast settings (these are adjustable if you go into the user color settings). I've got around 1,600 hours on my bulb.

I really think the HC3000 is a pretty solid projector. I recently spent some time viewing an Optoma HD806 (~$2300 1080p projector) and walked away thinking I wouldn't pay to swap my HC3000 for that particular optoma. The optoma was better, but I wouldn't pay for the swap. I'm kind of curious if the Epson 1080p projector that costs around $1,600 would be a nice upgrade, but honestly I think I'll hang on to the HC3000 at least until the bulb breaks if not longer.

Thank you MoonieGT for those comments, I really appreciate your time and response. I am really looking forward to getting it set up, it is suppose to be here Monday. Hope you have a great weekend.

Was wondering if any of you 3000 owners could tell me if there is a way to read the number of hours on the lamp? My HD1000 from Mits has a lamp counter, is there no way to tell how hours on a used 3000? Your help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you and have a great day.

Was wondering if any of you 3000 owners could tell me if there is a way to read the number of hours on the lamp? My HD1000 from Mits has a lamp counter, is there no way to tell how hours on a used 3000? Your help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you and have a great day.

Press the UP, DOWN, and ENTER buttons on the projector body simultaneously.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9216005#post9216005

Press the UP, DOWN, and ENTER buttons on the projector body simultaneously.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9216005#post9216005

Thank you ifeliciano, but I thought someone told you that you press those exact same buttons to return the counter to 0 after installing a new lamp? Confusing?

What can you tell from the following stats on the "hold up down enter" menu?

S/W version 3.0 HC3000
Set Time (Total) 778h45m
Lamp Time(Total) 778h45m
Lamp Time(Low) 1168h08
Lamp Reset 0
V-freq - Hz
H-freq - Khz
Temp error time 0h00m


Seems to me those times doesn't match. How can "Set time(total)" and "Lamp time(total)" be less than "Lamp time(low)"
And it anyway shows 0 lamp resets too.

Maybe firmware upgrade at some point?
Projector should be 8 months old according to seller.
Does anyone have anything similar in the menu, especially those who have got firmware upgrade done to their hc3000?

Which one of the numbers above represent the total hours on the lamp, 778hr 45min or 1168hr 08min? If it is 778 then what is 1168? If it is 1168 then what is 778? I am confused on how to read this and it is not explained in the owners manual. In case you are wondering I just bought this used projector so that is the reson for the questions. Thank you very much for your help.

This is a guess.. I have this unit and when I bought mine it was in the 3000 hour range so this thing is like new!
If your lamp is set to high mode, I am thinking the 778 is the number of hours the unit has been used. However that many hours on HIGH is = to 1168 on low. It is confusing and I am only guess but when I fire mine up tonight I will take a look. I reset the counter when I replaced the lamp and have only used it on low so will see what it says.

This is a guess.. I have this unit and when I bought mine it was in the 3000 hour range so this thing is like new!
If your lamp is set to high mode, I am thinking the 778 is the number of hours the unit has been used. However that many hours on HIGH is = to 1168 on low. It is confusing and I am only guess but when I fire mine up tonight I will take a look. I reset the counter when I replaced the lamp and have only used it on low so will see what it says.

Thank you very much for airscapes for doiing that. I will await your findings and post. Have a wonderful evening.

Golffnutt

Ok I have now read all 115 pages of this thread and if the answer to the question I am about to ask is there then I have missed it.

How do you reset the lamp counter to 0 once a new lamp has been installed?

I know you can get lamp readings by pressing the UP, DOWN, and ENTER buttons all 3 at the same time but I can NOT find how to reset the lamp counter to 0 once I install a new bulb.

I just bought a used unit and can not find anything in the owners manual either, thank you for helping me with this question. Have a pleasant evening.

Golffnutt

the answer is in the users guide in the lamp replacement section

Thank you very much for airscapes for doiing that. I will await your findings and post. Have a wonderful evening.

Golffnutt

Here is what mine has
S/W 4.01 HC3000
Set Time Total 4212H 29M
Lamp Time Total 311H 54M
Lamp time low 321H 44M
Lamp Rest 2

So the lamp starts on high and when stable drops to low.. so I guess there is some formula that calculates low hour to high.. in other words you get more hours on low than on high so the more it is used in high mode the more low time is consumed?

Here is what mine has
S/W 4.01 HC3000
Set Time Total 4212H 29M
Lamp Time Total 311H 54M
Lamp time low 321H 44M
Lamp Rest 2

So the lamp starts on high and when stable drops to low.. so I guess there is some formula that calculates low hour to high.. in other words you get more hours on low than on high so the more it is used in high mode the more low time is consumed?

Maybe, who knows, whatever happen to the old KISS method? Thanks airscapes for your time and response, really appreciate it.

Hi Guys,

Anyone happen to know the following factory settings under color temp user option or do you know a way to return the projector to factory default settings? I just bought a used 3000 and would like to know these if anyone can help with the these. Thank you for your help and have a great day.

Contrast
Red - ?
Green - ?
Blue - ?

Brightness
Red - ?
Green - ?
Blue - ?

These are the settings used by a professional calibrator with the proper equipment to adjust a perfect 6500D gray scale. They go + and - set them at 0 for default. The age of the lamp effects the gray scale and the gray scale effects color. Lots and lot to lean about calibrating but there are several preset that may be worth playing with before you screw with these. Depending on what input you use depends on what color control options are available. HDMI is will just be these.

The Contrast set effect the color in the Brightest range of lighting and the Brightness set effect the color in the dark range .. You can not just plug in other peoples settings since your lamp and their lamp are not the same..
Go to the calibration forum and do some reading to get a basic understanding of what needs to be done.

Have the unit professionally calibrated and you will be thrilled

These are the settings used by a professional calibrator with the proper equipment to adjust a perfect 6500D gray scale. They go + and - set them at 0 for default. The age of the lamp effects the gray scale and the gray scale effects color. Lots and lot to lean about calibrating but there are several preset that may be worth playing with before you screw with these. Depending on what input you use depends on what color control options are available. HDMI is will just be these.

The Contrast set effect the color in the Brightest range of lighting and the Brightness set effect the color in the dark range .. You can not just plug in other peoples settings since your lamp and their lamp are not the same..
Go to the calibration forum and do some reading to get a basic understanding of what needs to be done.

Have the unit professionally calibrated and you will be thrilled

Thank you Airscapes, your comments are exactly what I plan to do. I do own an HD1000U so this projector is not totally foreign to me nor how to calibrate it. I just would like to know the factory default settings for the color temp mode. Thanks and have a wonderful evening.

Can anyone tell me if the HC3000 can be forced to accept then send a 24P signal as long, of course, as the blu-ray player and the BR disc are sending a 24P?

I know in my HD1000 ( an inferior projector to the 3000 ) I can force the 1000 to receive a 24P signal from the DVD player then play that signal on the screen. This really improves motion scenes and keeps them from being so blurry. Can this same thing be done with the 3000, have any of you had luck doing this?

The HC3000 does not scale a 1080p signal properly so there is no point in sending it 1080p (regardless of 60/24 Hz).

Jason

The HC3000 does not scale a 1080p signal properly so there is no point in sending it 1080p (regardless of 60/24 Hz).

Jason

Thanks for chiming in Jason, I was hoping that you would. This is what I thought, just wanted to confirm though since I am not really an authority on technicalities like this. Have a great day, and thanks once again for your help and expertise. By the way I have found an ISF tech here in town, the only one, are there any things I should know or be aware of, or make sure that he does when I have him come out to do the calibration on the 3000?

Golffnutt

Nothing really to be aware of, hopefully the tech knows his stuff regarding projectors and you'll be watching a very accurate image in no time. The HC3000 is an excellent projector when it comes to color accuracy (once properly calibrated). Mine was able to hit 97% color accuracy and others have stated similar results. Just be aware it might take some time to adjust to an 'accurate' image if you are not used to it, at first you might think things look off but give it some time and allow your brain/eyes to take it in. Just keep in mind from here on out you're not going to be able to watch and enjoy an uncalibrated display (that's the curse) ;).

Jason

[QUOTE=DaGamePimp;17924086]Nothing really to be aware of, hopefully the tech knows his stuff regarding projectors and you'll be watching a very accurate image in no time. The HC3000 is an excellent projector when it comes to color accuracy (once properly calibrated). Mine was able to hit 97% color accuracy and others have stated similar results. Just be aware it might take some time to adjust to an 'accurate' image if you are not used to it, at first you might think things look off but give it some time and allow your brain/eyes to take it in. Just keep in mind from here on out you're not going to be able to watch and enjoy an uncalibrated display (that's the curse) ;).

Jason[/QUOte

Thank you Jason. How long does the average calibration take on a projector like the HC3000, 2-4 hours? Would like to know just to know I am getting my money's worth when he does come, it ain't cheap, his price is $275. Thanks again for sharing your vast knowledge with me and other forum such as you have always graciously done. Have a wonderful day.

The calibration time involved really depends upon the tech but there should be no reason for the HC3000 to run longer than 4 hours (if that's the techs break point for additional fees). There is no CMS on the HC3000 so the calibration process is pretty straight forward.

Jason

The calibration time involved really depends upon the tech but there should be no reason for the HC3000 to run longer than 4 hours (if that's the techs break point for additional fees). There is no CMS on the HC3000 so the calibration process is pretty straight forward.

Jason

Thanks again Jason, have a wonderful day.

HC3000 - first dust blob in years of service...i noticed early on in this thread someone mentioned a link on cine4home with instructions on taking PJ apart and cleaning out the blobs...

anyone have this link or similar????

cheers
dan

HC3000 - first dust blob in years of service...i noticed early on in this thread someone mentioned a link on cine4home with instructions on taking PJ apart and cleaning out the blobs...

anyone have this link or similar????

cheers
dan

Dan,

It was not really a guide for dust blob removal but if you follow along with the pics you can see how to get to the light engine, it's not tough, just have to be careful and be sure to not use canned air that leaves any residue as you can spot the DMD panel.

Here is the Cine4home link with the pics:
http://cineforhome.com/reviews/projectors/MitsuHC3000/Final/HC3000Review.htm

Best of Luck!
Jason

Thanks for the link!...will start working on it this week.

Do you have any idea where the likely source of the the dust is going make itself known? On DMD chip itself??? On the lens somewhere??? or somewhere else ??

Cheers
Dan

Dan,

Most likely it will be on the DMD itself but if you blow out the chamber with the DMD in it then you should be ok ;). Obviously try to do the procedure in a mostly dust free environment (if possible) and get the cover back on the chamber right after blowing it out.

Best of Luck,
Jason

All,

I'm new to the forum but have had an HC3000 for 3.5 years. Just recently it started shutting down about 60 seconds after I turn it on (may coincide with the lamp switching to economy mode as I do get an image for 30 to 45 seconds). I don't think it's a dust issue as I keep the filter clean. Has anyone ran in to this problem and am I just going to have to bit the bullet and buy a new projector? Thanks!

Gregg

I am no tech expert but I assume that there is some sort of temp sensor for the lamp. Assuming that the lamp is good and the inside is clean and free from dust, the sensor may be bad. Just a guess. I had a commercial photo printer, back when the world used film, that had that problem.

How many hours on the lamp? Does the indicators blink, there are a list of causes the correspond to the type and color of blinking. Does it stay on if you leave the lamp in standard mode?

I have never had this problem and I don't see anything about over heating in the users guide. If it is overheating in 60 seconds then the fans must not be running at all. Do you hear the fans?

According to the manual, the projector will shut down once the bulb reaches 3000 hours. After 3.5 years, I wouldn't be suprised if thats the cause. Do you know how to check the hours? You can get past the shutdown if thats the reason, by resetting the bulb hours back to zero.

Becouse the projector doesn't stay on long enough so you can see how many hours is on the lamp you will have to reset the lamp anyway. Reset the lamp (press the RIGHT, ENTER and LEFT button on top of the projector at the same time with the projector on standby) and if the projector stay on now you will know you have to change the lamp. Do not use this lamp! You have to change it.

Federico

Thanks to all of you for your suggstions. As Federico suggested, the lamp wasn't on long enough to check the hours, so I had to go ahead and reset it right after turn on. Sure enough it stayed on! I didn't think I had put that many hours on this bulb (had changed it before), but I guess that must have been the case. I'll go ahead and buy another bulb and hopefully I'm back in operation. I really appreciate the advice and help from all of you. Thanks again. :)

Gregg

Thanks to all of you for your suggstions. As Federico suggested, the lamp wasn't on long enough to check the hours, so I had to go ahead and reset it right after turn on. Sure enough it stayed on! I didn't think I had put that many hours on this bulb (had changed it before), but I guess that must have been the case. I'll go ahead and buy another bulb and hopefully I'm back in operation. I really appreciate the advice and help from all of you. Thanks again. :)

Gregg

If you didn't buy a REAL Mitsubishi bulb you may not have put that many hours on it.. There are many many stories of lower cost bulbs only lasting 500 hours..
I posted a link in other thread to a location where I had purchased a replacement for my HC3000 and it was a wonderful upgrade (old lamp with 3000 hours to new lamp )
I purchased this back in aug 2009 and was delivered in 2 days, but I am close to the location it shipped from.
http://www.provantage.com/mitsubishi-vlt-hc910lp~7MITP056.htm

Thanks airscapes. I may give that a try. Thinking about it a little more, my guess is that I forgot to reset the hours on it last time I replaced it, as I didn't get the usual "bulb neeeds replacing warning" after you first turn it on.

Gregg

Well if it is still working and brightness is not a problem, keep using it. There are folks that get 5000 hours out of a lamp. If I recall the the lamp has a cover on it so even if it were to explode you would probably not do any damage. I bought my hc3000 for a guy that had a HT store that went belly up. It was one that they had in the lobby of the place and ran 14 hours a day. He said he would reset the counter and let it go and only had one lamp burst with no damage to the HC3000 (they had more than one apparently) Mine had been reset 1 time and had the warning lamp blinking when I bought it for $175.

Anyone care to comment on compatible vs. OEM replacement bulbs experiences....

Also, who are some reputable dealers to get lamps from?

Sorry if this is addressed in this thread, but I have a 10 month old daughter that happily keeps me from sifting through this all.

Hello,

Just purchased a refurbished HC3000 with a brand new bulb, but am having trouble finding the calibration numbers. Also wanted to find out if there is a special menu or something, because I am unable to get the individual color temps to come up. Also, is there a menu for the iris control? I do not have the original remote & am doing this on a harmony so this may be the issue.

Any help would sure be appreciated.

Hello,

Just purchased a refurbished HC3000 with a brand new bulb, but am having trouble finding the calibration numbers. Also wanted to find out if there is a special menu or something, because I am unable to get the individual color temps to come up. Also, is there a menu for the iris control? I do not have the original remote & am doing this on a harmony so this may be the issue.

Any help would sure be appreciated.

Iris is remote only, it is $25 I bought one last here.. here is the link
http://www.provantage.com/mitsubishi-hc3000rem~7MITP06A.htm
Here is the link to the users guide.
http://www.projectorcentral.com/pdf/projector_manual_3026.pdf
Select user1 in color temp and hit enter you will see the 6 settings to do gray scale. Just had mine calibrated last week for the first time and looks awesome. You should wait at least 300 hours to let the lamp settle in.
You can not just plug in numbers, every lamp is different and if you want an accurate picture,you will need to have the gray scale set by a pro with an accurate meter.

Doug,

Thank you for the site for the remote. I was hoping that I could just use the Harmony to get by until I could find a used one on eBay, but for the $22 plus shipping I just pulled the trigger.
The real reason for wanting some kind of calibration is that I am getting a gold shimmer on fleshtones & it goes away but only after I have lowered the contrast by like 10 or 15, which makes it seem a bit dark. The lamp is in low mode & I have a DIY screen from Home Depot & never had issues with the Infocus IN72 I had before. Any help would sure be appreciated.

I just got my first lamp warning message on my HC3000 last night so I've been looking for a good source of replacement lamps. I see a few that pop up in the google adds here on this site so I'm assuming those are legitimate sources. Then I see quite a price spread depending on if you go for a real OEM ($293 at Provantage) or one with an Osram lamp (presumably the same as used in the original) in a third party housing ($219 and allprojectorlamps.com and $217 at Pureland Supply). I even see lower prices but I'm assuming I shouldn't trust those.

I'd be interested in hearing the experiences of folks here. Is there any source I should avoid or one that is highly recommended?

I just got that message this week as well and would also like to know a good source for a bulb. I'm leaning towards one of the forum sponsors, even though they are expensive, because I'd rather pay $300+ for bulb that will work than $180 for one that will die prematurely...

Just so you know. The bulb warning comes on automatically at a set hour. I think at about 2200 hours it starts saying prepare to get another bulb. According to the manual, the PJ will shut down at 3000 hours, regardless of how much life is left on the bulb. When mine neared that point, I reset the hours back to zero which cancelled the onscreen message, and have put another 600 hundred hours or so on it since then. As a side note, there is an older thread here about how many hours people are getting on bulbs for the projectors they have. Some are claiming up to 7500 hours on their 3000 hour bulbs. Though, I also wonder about the different bulb choices mentioned, for when it is time.

I just got that message this week as well and would also like to know a good source for a bulb. I'm leaning towards one of the forum sponsors, even though they are expensive, because I'd rather pay $300+ for bulb that will work than $180 for one that will die prematurely...

I bought a used HC3000 in August of 2009 with the warning light on. I did some research and found that this was the best price I could find for a TRUE Mitsubishi lamp so I ordered it and had it in 3 days.
http://www.provantage.com/mitsubishi-vlt-hc910lp~7MITP056.htm
I also did not have a remote and picked the original up from provatage as well for $25.

I have been using it on low lamp for 900+ hours and just had the unit professionally calibrated. It looks freaking great!

BTW The difference in brightness was night and day between the lamp that was in there an the new lamp, felt like the upgrade from SD to HD all over!

Just so you know. The bulb warning comes on automatically at a set hour. I think at about 2200 hours it starts saying prepare to get another bulb. According to the manual, the PJ will shut down at 3000 hours, regardless of how much life is left on the bulb. When mine neared that point, I reset the hours back to zero which cancelled the onscreen message, and have put another 600 hundred hours or so on it since then. As a side note, there is an older thread here about how many hours people are getting on bulbs for the projectors they have. Some are claiming up to 7500 hours on their 3000 hour bulbs. Though, I also wonder about the different bulb choices mentioned, for when it is time.

Thanks for that information. Frankly I haven't noticed much of a drop in brightness though a gradual reduction since 2007 when I first fired this projector up may be hard to detect.

I've read that bulbs can explode if they are run way past their end of life. Is that real or just another old wives tale (sorry if there are any old wives reading this).

I bought a used HC3000 in August of 2009 with the warning light on. I did some research and found that this was the best price I could find for a TRUE Mitsubishi lamp so I ordered it and had it in 3 days.
http://www.provantage.com/mitsubishi-vlt-hc910lp~7MITP056.htm

BTW The difference in brightness was night and day between the lamp that was in there an the new lamp, felt like the upgrade from SD to HD all over!

I'll add them to my list of possible sources. Their price seems reasonable for an original part. I suppose for all the use I get from this projector I shouldn't be so concerned over a couple of bucks.

Thanks for that information. Frankly I haven't noticed much of a drop in brightness though a gradual reduction since 2007 when I first fired this projector up may be hard to detect.

I've read that bulbs can explode if they are run way past their end of life. Is that real or just another old wives tale (sorry if there are any old wives reading this).

The guy I bought mine from claimed to (I believe him)have worked at a HT store that went belly up. The projector he sold me was one of several display models that had been normally run for 14 hours a day. They would reset lamp counters and get another 1000 hours out of the lamp. however one time he said he did have one explode. Due to the way this projector and lamp is designed it caused no damage. Personally I figure 2000 hours of viewing for $300 ain't bad, what's that, about 6 tanks of gas???

Personally I figure 2000 hours of viewing for $300 ain't bad, what's that, about 6 tanks of gas???

You must drive a bigger car than me! It would be closer to 12 tanks of gas in my car.

Interesting confirmation of the exploding bulb. The real problem that could cause would be due to the mercury that would be spread through your projector and theater room. Of course, as a kid we used to play with the stuff and I once worked in a hospital where one of my tasks was to maintain the old mercury Sphygmomanometers (for measuring blood pressure). We had bottles of the stuff and routinely spilled it.

If I recall,the lamp in the HC3000 has a glass cover over the front encasing the actual lamp. I guess there are air vents but at least it is better than other designs that are open in the front. And yes, I played with some mercury as a child.. even rode my bike without a helmet and ran with scissors!

Hi Guys,

Have a quick question that I was wondering if any of you might know the answer to.

I have heard that this projector has handshake problems with AVR's which utilize the Reon chip for video processing. Something about the Reon chip that the 3000 does not like. Have any of you heard this? Are any of you using the 3000 with an AVR which has the Reon chip? I am getting ready to purchase an AVR with the Reon chip is the reason for asking as I already own and like the 3000. Thank you for helping me out on this.

can not answer your question for sure but can say mine has issues at times with the Motorola QIP6200-2 box. To resolve the issues I have to unplug box for a hard boot.

can not answer your question for sure but can say mine has issues at times with the Motorola QIP6200-2 box. To resolve the issues I have to unplug box for a hard boot.

Thanks airscapes for that info. Have a nice day.

What's a good deal for this pj right now?

I would not pay more than $100 for it assuming I would buy a new OEM lamp, air filter and maybe a remote.. that would put you at $400 assuming no other issues. It is a nice projector but only 720p and 5 years old. Sorry lamp is $300 so a remote and filter would be another $50 for a grand total of $450. Could by other brands new for $600+- but not sure it would be as good. This does have a 5x color wheel and is very quiet on low lamp.

MITSUBISHI HC3000U,no remote,power cord, ceiling mount, 329 hours on lamp. Is that worth $300?

MITSUBISHI HC3000U,no remote,power cord, ceiling mount, 329 hours on lamp. Is that worth $300?

I would offer him $250, then use the $50 you saved to pay for the remote and new filter.

Also try to talk him into putting it on Ebay, then you buy it immediately when it is listed. That way you could buy a warranty for about $30 bucks, this would cover you if the color wheel happen to go bad. You can't buy a warranty if you buy from an individual or private seller. Just my .02 cents.

I would offer him $250, then use the $50 you saved to pay for the remote and new filter.

Also try to talk him into putting it on Ebay, then you buy it immediately when it is listed. That way you could buy a warranty for about $30 bucks, this would cover you if the color wheel happen to go bad. You can't buy a warranty if you buy from an individual or private seller. Just my .02 cents.

It's on ebay. I tried $250 but lowest he will go is $300+20S&H. He has it for $600. Where you get the warranty from?

I just finished swapping out the color wheel on my HC3000.
Had to disassemble almost the whole projector, but man, is it nice and quiet now. The old color wheel was 3.5 yrs old and made quite a loud whirring noise.

Quite an undertaking where I had to take out the lamp, lense, mainboard, few fans and then put everything back together.

So it can be done and for 249$ it's still cheaper than buying a new projector.

Thomas

It's on ebay. I tried $250 but lowest he will go is $300+20S&H. He has it for $600. Where you get the warranty from?

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, for some reason I never got an email saying there was a new post on this thread. I am subscribed to this thread so I don't know if it is an AVS problem or a problem with my email.

Any how, you can buy the warranty from a company called "Square Trade", whom Ebay recommends. Usually when you check out of paying for the item, there will be an invite to buy the warranty. If not just go to Squaretrade.com. You have 30 days from day of purchase to buy it. I am not recommending them as I have never had to use them but I currently have warranties with them on three of my ebay purchases. Good luck with everything, the HC3000 is a GREAT projector, at least mine has been. 3 years old and going strong.

I just finished swapping out the color wheel on my HC3000.
Had to disassemble almost the whole projector, but man, is it nice and quiet now. The old color wheel was 3.5 yrs old and made quite a loud whirring noise.

Quite an undertaking where I had to take out the lamp, lense, mainboard, few fans and then put everything back together.

So it can be done and for 249$ it's still cheaper than buying a new projector.

Thomas

Thanks Thomas that is great to hear. For those of us who may not be quite as technically as you would it possible for you to offer us a guide, or step by step procedure on how you did this, that would be great. I know within the next 6 months probably I am going to need to do this as my projector is now 3.5 years old. Thanks a lot for your help on this if you can remember how you did it. Have a Happy Thanksgiving.

golffnutt

I just finished swapping out the color wheel on my HC3000.
Had to disassemble almost the whole projector, but man, is it nice and quiet now. The old color wheel was 3.5 yrs old and made quite a loud whirring noise.

Quite an undertaking where I had to take out the lamp, lense, mainboard, few fans and then put everything back together.

So it can be done and for 249$ it's still cheaper than buying a new projector.

Thomas

Good Job!. Where did you buy the color Wheel?
Thanks for your help,
Federico

I called 888 307 8404 and let them know that I need a color wheel with the part# 499-D094030.
They faxed me an order form where you can put the part number, quantity and price down and you fax it back to Mitsu part supply with your CC info and you should be having your new color wheel in about 3 business days.
Besides fax, they can also email you the order form.

So, once you have the color wheel in your hands, that's how you proceed:
1. Take the 1 screw out from the lamp lid, remove the lid and unscrew the 3 screws that hold the lamp down. Remove lamp and place in a secure place.
2. Remove the 6 screws from the bottom of the projector and remove top projector lid, exposing a metal shield enclosing the mainboard, a few fans, optics and so on.
3. Remove the screws, which hold the top part of the metal shielding down and remove that shield, exposing the mainboard in the process.
4. Remove all those small connectors from the mainboard. Little tuck here and there and they should pop off.
5. Take all the screws out which hold the mainboard down, careful with the copper tongues, so they don't fall into the projector housing.
6. Removing the mainboard is a little difficult as there is a double sided sticky foam holding the mainboard down. You can see that by shining a flashlight underneath the mainboard. Just pull up the mainboard a little and it will slowly come loose. Once the foam is loose you should be able to completely remove the mainboard.
7. Remove the metal shielding that is exposed now after removing the mainboard.
8. Remove the two small fans in the back of the projector, one is for cooling the lamp, the other cools the DLP chip.
9. Remove the metal shield sitting behind the DLP chip's cooler. 3 very small screws are holding that shield down.
10. Remove the power plug for the lamp, which is being held down by 2 screws.
11. Remove the lamp housing, which is being held down by 3 screws.
12. Now remove the lens/mirror/DLP chip/color wheel assembly which is being held down by 4 screws.
13. Once you got that assembly in your hands, easy access to the color wheel's motor connector. Unclip the flat cable that powers the color wheel motor and remove the cable tie.
14. Remove the two small screws from the color wheel base and replace the old color wheel with the new one.

Reassemble going the steps backwards.

I don't think I have missed something, I may have since I just had a few margharitas and I wrote this down from memory... but hey, if you're not mechanically inclined, I wouldn't suggest you try it anyway.

Enjoy your fixed HC3000.

Thomas

It helps if you take digital photos as your take things apart, I have done this with every projector I have disassembled. It can be very helpful when it comes time to put it back together. I was an auto mechanic for many years prior to digital cameras.. and many a time I wished I had a picture when putting back together major engine and dashboard jobs!

I called 888 307 8404 and let them know that I need a color wheel with the part# 499-D094030.
They faxed me an order form where you can put the part number, quantity and price down and you fax it back to Mitsu part supply with your CC info and you should be having your new color wheel in about 3 business days.
Besides fax, they can also email you the order form.

So, once you have the color wheel in your hands, that's how you proceed:
1. Take the 1 screw out from the lamp lid, remove the lid and unscrew the 3 screws that hold the lamp down. Remove lamp and place in a secure place.
2. Remove the 6 screws from the bottom of the projector and remove top projector lid, exposing a metal shield enclosing the mainboard, a few fans, optics and so on.
3. Remove the screws, which hold the top part of the metal shielding down and remove that shield, exposing the mainboard in the process.
4. Remove all those small connectors from the mainboard. Little tuck here and there and they should pop off.
5. Take all the screws out which hold the mainboard down, careful with the copper tongues, so they don't fall into the projector housing.
6. Removing the mainboard is a little difficult as there is a double sided sticky foam holding the mainboard down. You can see that by shining a flashlight underneath the mainboard. Just pull up the mainboard a little and it will slowly come loose. Once the foam is loose you should be able to completely remove the mainboard.
7. Remove the metal shielding that is exposed now after removing the mainboard.
8. Remove the two small fans in the back of the projector, one is for cooling the lamp, the other cools the DLP chip.
9. Remove the metal shield sitting behind the DLP chip's cooler. 3 very small screws are holding that shield down.
10. Remove the power plug for the lamp, which is being held down by 2 screws.
11. Remove the lamp housing, which is being held down by 3 screws.
12. Now remove the lens/mirror/DLP chip/color wheel assembly which is being held down by 4 screws.
13. Once you got that assembly in your hands, easy access to the color wheel's motor connector. Unclip the flat cable that powers the color wheel motor and remove the cable tie.
14. Remove the two small screws from the color wheel base and replace the old color wheel with the new one.

Reassemble going the steps backwards.

I don't think I have missed something, I may have since I just had a few margharitas and I wrote this down from memory... but hey, if you're not mechanically inclined, I wouldn't suggest you try it anyway.

Enjoy your fixed HC3000.

Thomas

Thanks Thomas for posting this info. It will be a lot of help.

Hey guys I have a question for those of you who are operating your 3000 with a Harmony Universal Remote.

I have the Harmony 890Pro with the RF extenders. I have no porblems operating any part of my 3000 except for one thing, turning it off. Of course as we all know turning it off is a 2 button affair. I have mine programmed now so that my remote, for example, will turn on my receiver, my sat box, and my projector at the same time. It will also turn off the receiver and sat box but will only get to the screen that asks you if you want to turn off the projector, but it WON"T turn it off. I can't for the life of me get it to turn off. Can any of you tell me what I need to do in the programming side of the remote to get it to turn the projector off? I would REALLY, REALLY appreciate it if you could help me out here, this is driving me and my very tech savvy son absolutely crazy. Thank you so much for trying to help me. Any by the way, May you all have a very safe and Happy Thanksgiving.

golffnutt

I don't have the Harmony, but also had some problems. Maybe these thoughts will help.

[I noticed that even manually there is difficulty turning off the H3000 if the sat AVR is shutting down first. The loss of HDMI signal to the H3000 interrupts the response to the off commands for maybe 1-3 seconds.]

> Try to shutoff the H3000 first, before the Sat and AVR.

> Optionally you can always create a longer series as, "off-pause-off-pause-off-pause-off-pause-off commands that eventually will be recognized even if it is not the first unit shut down.

> If one of those doesn’t work, be sure you are including enough pause time between the 2 off commands.

I don't have the Harmony, but also had some problems. Maybe these thoughts will help.

[I noticed that even manually there is difficulty turning off the H3000 if the sat AVR is shutting down first. The loss of HDMI signal to the H3000 interrupts the response to the off commands for maybe 1-3 seconds.]

> Try to shutoff the H3000 first, before the Sat and AVR.

> Optionally you can always create a longer series as, "off-pause-off-pause-off-pause-off-pause-off commands that eventually will be recognized even if it is not the first unit shut down.

> If one of those doesn’t work, be sure you are including enough pause time between the 2 off commands.

Thank you for those words of advice. I tried it your way and it still won't work. I guess the remote is just defective. I give up, too frustrating but again thank you for trying to help me.

Back in 2007 Cine4Home.com posted a review of this projector that included disassembly and a lot of good photos inside the unit. Being a pack rat I saved that review as a PDF. I just checked the original link and see it is not there and was unable to find that review on their site. If you want to see the PDF version, I posted it here.

http://nineveh-junction.com/binaries/Review_Mitsubishi_HC-3000.pdf

Back in 2007 Cine4Home.com posted a review of this projector that included disassembly and a lot of good photos inside the unit. Being a pack rat I saved that review as a PDF. I just checked the original link and see it is not there and was unable to find that review on their site. If you want to see the PDF version, I posted it here.

http://nineveh-junction.com/binaries/Review_Mitsubishi_HC-3000.pdf

Thank you very much JWKessler for that info. I still love my 3000 and have not been convinced to take the 1080p jump yet due to my 3000's super picture quality. Just wish I could find a cheap source for the genuine replacement lamps, I go thru one about every 10-12 months as my projector is used as a TV and not just a movie projector only. Have a great and safe holiday season and thanks again for your post.