Does anyone know the mounting hole positions on the projector? I'm going to machine out a mounting plate, but am not at home. Thanks.

I copied cine4home's settings a week or so ago and finally just quit messing with it and have enjoyed watching.

I have done some basic calibration for the component input using DVE. Surprisingly the numbers are exactly same as the cine4home's calibration numbers. Yes, I have a white screen. Gizm is right. You need to set the "Setup" option to "Off" position to control brightness. "Red" and "Blue" colors pass the test with flying colors with the supplied color filters (DVE). However, the green color is acceptable.

I haven't played with the HDMI input. Waiting for cine4home and CKL's tweaks.

Forgive the set up questions but this is my first projector and want to get it set up properly on the first shot.

I am planning to use this projector with a 103" diagonal 16.9 screen. The viewing area without frame is 51" high. Based on my reading of the manual I can place the projector 14 feet 5 inches from the screen so am I reading the manual correctly? Is there any reason why I shouldn't use the complete zoom?

Based on the above throw distance is the offset 16.5"? Therefore would the screen viewing area need to be at least 21" from the ceiling (i.e., 16.5" + 2" 1/2 of projector height + 2.5" mount (chief universal))?

How much shift do you get via the digital shift "vertical location"?

My ceiling is actually 103" high so I think I have some space to play with.

I have a beam near the front of my room (4 feet from the screen) which hangs down 11" so based on the offset of the projector I believe I should be able to clear it. I ran a string from the top of the screen to where the projector lens would be and it cleared the beam by a few inches.

Sorry for rehashing this stuff but I just wanted to confirm my understanding given all the negatives I read about this projectors limited placement.

I am about to pull the trigger on the mits hc3000 and have spent quite a bit of time trying to understand screens. I think I have just about decided on Da-Lite with white matte fabric.

I am using (planning on) the following for my room:

ambient light controllable
13.5 viewing
106" diagonal
greater than 30 degree viewing from left side needed (about 45 degrees from "worst" seating position)
opposite sides of the normal

I am looking for a remote controlled electric screen.

Here's my problem-- I have been reading off and on that you should use tensioned screens, but the white matte fabric doesn't appear to be used in any of the Da-Lite tensioned products in particular the one I am looking at: the Designer Contour Electrol.

Anyone have experience with this screen and the hc3000? Are there any viewing issues/problems since it isn't tabbed or tensioned? Or maybe a better question is to simply leave it more open-ended and ask: what screen should I use for the hc3000 under the above conditions Da-Lite or otherwise?

Sorry in advance if this should have been posted in screens.

Eager to try out my first home theater experience-- the 36" Sanyo SD has been great til now. I am ready to play with the big toys!

Axiom speakers
SVS Subwoofer
Yamaha htr-5990
Soon to be Mitsubishi hc3000
? screen

--clay

Sorry about the title within the thread... first post, probably breaking a rule that I should have followed/found in the forum FAQs

--clay

Hello everyone.
I am a new member having just made entry from Japan. I just bought a HC3000, so will try make posts on my review of this PJ. (I may make mistakes in English writing since it is my second language, so pls allow me.) Thanks. :)

My first impression:

Soft image but very good shadow details in dark scenes.
Black level is not as low as I expected, but much lower than my previous model Epson TW100.
Colour balance is that green seems to be stronger than the others, So I am trying to adjust by changing user setting for colour temp. mode; picking up contrast levels of blue and red, and reducing that of green.

Overall, HC3000 is the best PJ to watch films containing lots of dark scenes, beating new LCD projectors in this price level in this aspect.

Someone would have complaint on its less sharpness than competing models such as Z4, but Mitsubishi commented on a Japanese magazine that relatively soft image is a result of their aim to achieve "chinema like" image quality.

I have not tweaked enough so I will try today.

farpost,

try the settings that were shown earlier from ckl's preliminary check up of the 3000, then maybe tweak from there.

I will receive my PJ on Monday. I am very excited. I spoke with the sales guy again. We talked for at least an hour about my setup. It's nice to talk with someone who knows what they are talking about, and has no problem putting in the time.

Like I stated before in another post, he has the HC3000 and the Z4 set up at his location. He also has the ae900, but it is not on display. He tells me that the image on the 3000 looks much more "natural". He does like the Z4 better than the 900, but prefers the 3000 over the other two. He also stated that for scenes with a lot of motion, the 3000 beats the other two PJs. He said there is no PJ under twice the price that displays fewer motion artifacts. He welcomed me to order the Z4 to match them up, and I'm tempted to do so, but I've decided against it. I'm goin to judge the 3000 based on the picture before me. If I like it, it stays; if I don't it goes. It's that easy.

The infamous "offset" that is troubling other setups, is prefered in my setup. With my high ceiling, I do not want to drop it so far. I'm hoping to read some more from that Cine4home site. They really go into great detail on their reviews.

It does trouble me that the HC 3000 is on the top 20 PJ list at PC, but not on the highly recommended list. Other PJs had a lower star rating than the 3000, but the 3000 is not on that page. Why is this PJ being left out? I wonder. Evan seems to be on an LSD *I mean LCD trip. He didn't even see fit to do a proper review on the 3000. That makes me question his MO in this case.

Anyway... The waiting continues... I'm also a bit nervous because I am being "pepper sprayed" tomorrow as part of a police academy excercise. It is not something I am looking foward to.

-Rob

Rob,
Let us know your thoughts asap.

I think you are right about projector central. He seems really biased or something for not giving the 3000 it's due credit.
Enjoy that pepper spray! I got tazed at CES a few years ago. Everyone that volunteered got to enter for a free tazer. That was fun! ;)

Anyway... The waiting continues... I'm also a bit nervous because I am being "pepper sprayed" tomorrow as part of a police academy excercise. It is not something I am looking foward to.

-Rob

Way OT here but chime in on the pepper spray results. I carry that in my truck, "just in case," but have no idea how effective it really would be. I don't need any graphic details, but if you and the other cadets feel it truly is effective, please say so.

Greg

I snapped a pic of my 3000 installed on the ceiling. It's mounted with a cheif RPA universal mount and is mounted on an angled part of the ceiling.
close up:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/brian.corr@sbcglobal.net/detail?.dir=cf91&.dnm=4ae5re2.jpg&.src=ph
farther back:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/brian.corr@sbcglobal.net/detail?.dir=cf91&.dnm=7406re2.jpg&.src=ph

I cannot make HC3000 display 4:3 image correctly when using HDMI with Panasonic dvd player. The image is always stretched instead of having black bars on both sides. Can anyone try this to see if only mine has this flaw?

My first impression:

Soft image but very good shadow details in dark scenes.
Black level is not as low as I expected, but much lower than my previous model Epson TW100.
Colour balance is that green seems to be stronger than the others, So I am trying to adjust by changing user setting for colour temp. mode; picking up contrast levels of blue and red, and reducing that of green.

Overall, HC3000 is the best PJ to watch films containing lots of dark scenes, beating new LCD projectors in this price level in this aspect.

Someone would have complaint on its less sharpness than competing models such as Z4, but Mitsubishi commented on a Japanese magazine that relatively soft image is a result of their aim to achieve "chinema like" image quality.

I have not tweaked enough so I will try today.


FP

Thanks for the info. What size screen are you using and what gain is it?

I'm planning on a 90-100" setup and perhaps a low gain screen to help with the blacks.

Thanks
JohnG

Does anyone have this new projector AND a late model Pani plasma?

I have a 42" late model Pani plasma and the blacks are rather 'sucky' on it. I'm planning on getting a projector and would like to get a comparison of the blacks on the HC3000 to the Pani's.

Thanks
JohnG

Hello johnnymg

Mine is a normal mat screen and its size is 100" but I get only 90-95" image size due to the PJ's long throwing distance, 95" is not bad for my room size though. The gain is probably 0.8 or something.( I do not remember exactly.)
Actually I am thinking to buy a better screen (Japanese brand) in the near future in order to get better contrast and black level.

I cannot make HC3000 display 4:3 image correctly when using HDMI with Panasonic dvd player. The image is always stretched instead of having black bars on both sides. Can anyone try this to see if only mine has this flaw?
I have S97 and if i have it at 720p mode, i can´t get 4:3 to work. If i put panny at 576p, then every aspect works automatically.

About Brilliant Color, does anyone else notice that sometimes it makes for example clouds to look unnaturally sharp edged and there is noise in light gray areas of moving picture? DVE`s audio and video demonstrations is a good place to look for these examples. Very distracting and easy to see when it happens.

I had quite a green picture in my mitsu. I had to lower green by 10 and blue by 8. Just by adding more red contrast got the picture almost as good. What is the right way to do this, i don´t know, but i would like to learn.
Cine4Home`s preview settings didn´t work for me, got too green picture. But i have to say that i´m no expert on calibrating these things so i´m waiting for those cine4home`s and CKL´s tests with great interest.

John,
I have a 42" panny ED, 42pd50u, this years model. I haven't bother really comparing the pic quality between the plasma and projector. The plasma's in the master bedroom and I've been very impressed with the pic it puts out, just haven't bothered comparing. I'll try and make a mental note of the differences over the holiday.

John,
I have a 42" panny ED, 42pd50u, this years model. I haven't bother really comparing the pic quality between the plasma and projector. The plasma's in the master bedroom and I've been very impressed with the pic it puts out, just haven't bothered comparing. I'll try and make a mental note of the differences over the holiday.

Brian

Sent you an email re the plasma/HC3000 black level comparison.

THANKS
JohnG

I cannot make HC3000 display 4:3 image correctly when using HDMI with Panasonic dvd player. The image is always stretched instead of having black bars on both sides. Can anyone try this to see if only mine has this flaw?

What resolution are you inputting to the projector? If you are upscaling to 720p, the projector likely locks out aspect ratio control because it expects all 720p images to be 16:9. If the DVD player offers it, you'll have to do the pillarboxing there, or you'll have to switch down to 480p.

I have S97 and if i have it at 720p mode, i can´t get 4:3 to work. If i put panny at 576p, then every aspect works automatically.

About Brilliant Color, does anyone else notice that sometimes it makes for example clouds to look unnaturally sharp edged and there is noise in light gray areas of moving picture? DVE`s audio and video demonstrations is a good place to look for these examples. Very distracting and easy to see when it happens.

I had quite a green picture in my mitsu. I had to lower green by 10 and blue by 8. Just by adding more red contrast got the picture almost as good. What is the right way to do this, i don´t know, but i would like to learn.
Cine4Home`s preview settings didn´t work for me, got too green picture. But i have to say that i´m no expert on calibrating these things so i´m waiting for those cine4home`s and CKL´s tests with great interest.

Leave up a graysteps pattern with DVE. Take out color bias in the light grays with the contrast/RGB's, take out color in the dark grays with brightness/RGB.

If you see blue in the light gray try boosting red and green contrast. If you see green in the dark grays first try taking the green out by lowering green brightness. If it took 8 numbers change that to 4 and increase red and blue by 4 numbers each.

My HC 3000 is now in PARSIPPANY, NJ, US, according to UPS tracking. Because of the holiday and the weekend I will not see it until Monday.

As for the OC Spray. it was intense: (the following doesn't relate to the HC3000)
There are three types of sprays. 1. Chloroactetophenone (CN or teargass) 2. Orthochlorobenzalmalononitrile (CS) and 3. Oleoresin Capsicum (OC). I have been subjected to CS many times in the Army, and I was sprayed with OC today. So, those are the only two I am personally familiar with.

My OC assessment: A direct blast of OC to your face is a horrendous experience. In my opinion, 2 times worse than CS. There is simply no relief. It feels like someone hit you in the face with a flame-thrower.

What I've learned:
1. Just because you spray someone, it doesn't mean they will be immediately incapacitated. It depends on the anger and motivation of the person being sprayed. The best method is to spray and move, because the person may charge the place he last saw you.

2. If a person is extremely intoxicated, or drug impaired (i.e. PCP), he my be less affected due to the dulling of the senses.

3. A VERY VERY small segment of the population will not be affected. The instructor has sprayed thousands of officer candidates along with many others and has only seen one in his career that it had no effect on. He said it was "freaky".

I'm having trouble seeing out of my right eye and my left ear burns like hell 5 hours after being sprayed. The excruciating pain lasted every bit of 20 minutes and that was for everyone (some longer).

OC is better than CS or CN in that it is also an inflammatory, so it is more effective (especially on animals). For instance, If a dog is sprayed with CS or CN, the dog will be unaffected due to the lack of tear ducts. Since OC is primarily an inflammatory, it is very effective on animals. That's why you see a lot of mailmen with OC.

All three chemicals are available to the public for personal defense (check with you state for limitations and amounts). You will be inflicting a great deal of pain on anyone you hit with it, so use discretion.

If you are hit. 1. stay outside 2. don't rub your eyes. 3. Wash effected area out with water 4. Baby shampoo can be used , but nothing harsher. 4. After washing it out, the best thing to pry your eyelids open and let air hit your eyes until the pain subsides. 5. infected clothing can be washed. 6. Be careful when showering later as it WILL reactivate when water hits it again (I'm looking forward to that tonight).

I've rambled on enough. I can't wait to post more about my soon-to-arrive PJ soon.

-Rob

I can see I've rambled on.

:) My local Mits dealer just told me about $300 dollar rebate on the HC3000 on any purchased now thru Dec 31 2005.

http://www.mitsubishi-hometheater.com/holidaypromotion/

So $2,995 MSRP - $300 Rebate = $2,695 (MSRP-Rebate):D

:) My local Mits dealer just told me about $300 dollar rebate on the HC3000 on any purchased now thru Dec 31 2005.

http://www.mitsubishi-hometheater.com/holidaypromotion/

So $2,995 MSRP - $300 Rebate = $2,695 (MSRP-Rebate):D

Major salavation happening! Thanks for the heads-up Kosty.

KOSTY... YOU THE MAN!!!

Well since I don't have the PJ until the 28th, I am going to have them either rewrite the receipt, or refund my purchase and rebuy it.

NICE DUDE! You made my night.

:rolleyes: Mitsubishi’s new home theater projector contains DDP3020 Digital Light Processing® TrueVision™ Image processing with BrilliantColor™: advanced capabilities that greatly enhance white segment processing and secondary color boost to improve mid-tone brightness. The result is a display output that looks even brighter and more intense than its specified 1000 ANSI lumens and 4000:1 contrast ratio.

BrilliantColor™ processing technology uses a patented color processing algorithm and system-level enhancements for more brightness and truer lifelike colors. About the size of a box of chocolates, the HC3000U treats viewers to rich, vivid displays up to full, high definition 720p resolution and a selection of aspect ratios, including CinemaScope®.

“The home theater experience just got sweeter with our HC3000U,” said Frank Anzures, manager, projector product marketing for Mitsubishi Digital Electronics America. “In side-by-side comparisons, the HC3000U with BrilliantColor shows just how amazing these new technologies are.”

“Mitsubishi, as always, is proud to be the first to bring Texas Instruments’ latest breakthrough technology to the high definition home theater arena,” said James Chan, director, product marketing, Mitsubishi Digital Electronics America. “The HC3000U with BrilliantColor revolutionizes the way DLP projectors display colors and video, for a fantastic home sweet home theater experience.”http://www.mitsubishi-hometheater.com/pdf/hc3000u_release.pdf

:p " just got sweeter" :p "home sweet home" :p
Geeez you think they really really said that??????
:rolleyes: "My grandma said life is like a box of chocolates....." :rolleyes:

4:3 hdmi image problem solved! Indeed it's because of the upsacling of the dvd player. Thanks for the answers!

asterix

Do you see any difference in DVD or HDTV image quality between component and HDMI imput?

Leave up a graysteps pattern with DVE. Take out color bias in the light grays with the contrast/RGB's, take out color in the dark grays with brightness/RGB.

If you see blue in the light gray try boosting red and green contrast. If you see green in the dark grays first try taking the green out by lowering green brightness. If it took 8 numbers change that to 4 and increase red and blue by 4 numbers each.

And the calibration continues...

Thank you for your advice.

I have Sony Wega crt beside the screen and it´s really a big help when you can compare those colors. Can´t trust only to my eyes anymore. It´s strange how your eyes can adapt to colortemperature.

...And the new calibration knowledge pays off!
Forget everything i said about Brilliant Color making clouds look sharp edged etc...It was my own RGB settings that were to blame. Bad settings just didn´t work with BC on.
Now that i have less radical RGB settings i can keep BC on and it just provides better and punchier colors!

Has ay body perfored a calibration o this unit? and why can't I tweak with color via HDMI?

...And the new calibration knowledge pays off!
Forget everything i said about Brilliant Color making clouds look sharp edged etc...It was my own RGB settings that were to blame. Bad settings just didn´t work with BC on.
Now that i have less radical RGB settings i can keep BC on and it just provides better and punchier colors!

I hope it was my make gray look gray advice and not an adjacent Sony TV. Becuase that Sony is probably off also. ;)

Stick with the graybar patterns. After a while and viewing this pattern on many different displays, you'll know when a grayscale is good or way off. Go through your color temp choices with this pattern, see which one gets closer to gray without blue, without red.

I hope it was my make gray look gray advice and not an adjacent Sony TV. Becuase that Sony is probably off also. ;)

Stick with the graybar patterns. After a while and viewing this pattern on many different displays, you'll know when a grayscale is good or way off. Go through your color temp choices with this pattern, see which one gets closer to gray without blue, without red.

The key was making gray look gray with your advice. It was a mistake trying to make HC3000 pic look the same as Wega`s. Wega`s gray is indeed more towards red. Now i have green contrast and brightness -2 both. This is a learning process for me and maybe this goes off the topic so i leave my findings now to myself.

Could an FL-D filter be added to the lens to tame the green push that some people are complaining about? If so, what size is the HC3000's lens?

Kosty, you're killing me with that discount! Now I'm really going to jump off the fence soon! I'm not doing anything until my iScan VP30 is installed, though, and the release of that keeps getting delayed.

Diegolfer

Did you get an answer re the mounting holes/pattern for this PJ?

I need the same info.

No, but when I get a chance I'll send them to you when I measure. The turkey is really taking an effect.

The HC3000U owners manual is now up on the Mitsubishi Home Theater Site

http://www.mitsubishi-hometheater.com/hc3000u.asp

Just moved up from a Sanyo Z3 & Screen goo digital grey screen to a HC3000 & Firehawk 100" combo. My first post on the board!!

Having had a fun time with the Z3, I tried out the Sanyo Z4, but no matter what people explained, read, what Evan wrote on PC, Black levels just did not do it for me. The Z4 had a somewhat sharper picture. I had a hard time with brightness of the unit going up and down while watching a movie and the low light scenes, were just that, low light, very dark grey.

Onto the HC3000, I had it calibrated to the Firehawk, my viewing room has dark walls ceiling etc. running it in 720 mode, ceiling mounted, the offset proved not to be an issue for me.

I've got is setup with the Low lamp, Iris closed, BC on, via HDMI into the S97, running at 720P from the panny.

The unit without calibration was fairly cool picture wise with greens that were somewhat off (blueish) After calibration, the picture just pops off the screen, it's not too bright, blacks with the firehawk are so black, that the room influences the black ability more than any setting on the PJ.

In 'Fifth Element' right at the beginning when the earth appears, it's quite amazing, black space, crisp blue earth and none of this greyish black that I saw on the Z4.

Screendoor effect is just not visible, I sit 3.5meters from a 2.20M wide screen, so fairly close, much better than either the Z3 or Z4, where I could see it.

Sharpness is very different now that you don't see the screendoor effect anymore, you can concentrate on the picture. I like mine set to -1 possibly -2 when the movie is grainy, for movies like Incredibles, I'll set it at 0. (The Z4 is sharper overall.)

BC is interesting, it makes the picture come alive in a subtle way, and since I had my calibration done with BC on, the bright whites are set so that they are not overpowered, the effect is quite something. In this setup, I've yet to see a rainbow.

Initially I was set on getting a Z4, being happy with the Z3, but those blacks.... hmmm I can only urge you to go see one yourselves, the HC3000 truly delivers a stunning picture, with depth (again those blacks help) shadow detail is excellent. Calibration made a very visible difference.

FYI, it has 3 mounting holes, each 4mm. and it's a small unit, light and noise levels are similar to my old Z3 in low lamp mode. Very little stay light out of the unit all around. I was able to profit from the free lamp promo Mitsu has in Europe currently.

So those are some of my initial impressions,

Cheers, William

Does anyone know of a store / showroom in or near NYC that has a 3000U set up for viewing / sale? I would love to see one in action.
TIA!

In 'Fifth Element' right at the beginning when the earth appears, it's quite amazing, black space, crisp blue earth and none of this greyish black that I saw on the Z4.



Having returned a Z4 due to those greyish blacks I couldn't agree with you more.

Good detailed review of the HC3000 great 1st post. :)

BillyTT

Thanks for the report I find it really helpful as I am / was on the fence deciding between the flexible Z4 and the HC3000u with its better blacks. I also have a Firehawk (106") and dark walls and ceiling in my dedecated theater. I will be replacing a 4805 Infocus.

My theater is in a very small town where there are no professional calibrators within 300 miles so I (and perhaps others) would really appreciate your posting your final HC3000 settings so that we can use them as a good starting point.

Edit: Just ordered the HC3000

would really appreciate your posting your final HC3000 settings so that we can use them as a good starting point.Thanks for the great first post. Make sure you get the $300 rebate from Mits.

Can you provide a detailed list of all your settings? We have experimented with many and we really like the picture but have not decided on what one to end up using. BC on or off?, what gamma mode?, what color setting?, what sharpness etc and what screen gain you have.

Thanks for the comments, glad you like it. I also agree with your comments. I just saw the superbit version of 5th Element today as well as the opening scene of ROTH. I agree that the LCD's are getting better but both the AE900 and Z4 just don't do it, with those LCD dark grey, instead of black. My observations were exactly what you saw. I am especially impressed with the bright colors with the jet inky blacks and non-crushed whites on the HC3000.

I think you can calibrate this with non-crushed whites to eliminate altogether or at least greatly reduce any RBE. Glowing whites with the blacks I think can enhance RBE. I wish any DLP phobic LCD guys could try this out for a while and enjoy that picture. I think some don't know what they are missing.

Does anyone know of a store / showroom in or near NYC that has a 3000U set up for viewing / sale? I would love to see one in action.
TIA!I know one a few hours drive from the city.

Hi!

I recently bought the HC3000 and I'm very, very pleased with it. Today I bought a VGA cable to be able to hook up the projector with my pc. I have now tried different resolutions both with the standard graphics driver and then with powerstrip. The Problem is now that I can't 1:1 pixelmap the picture with 1280 x 720 res. I'm able to sync, but the picture is very overscanned and not particulary sharp. When I go with 1280 x 768 I'm getting better results with a much sharper picture, but not 100% pixelmapped. I have a 16/9 screen so that's why I want 1280 x720 res. Does anyone know how to solve this?

/Robert

OK, so here goes for some settings, since you asked so nicely ;-)

Contrast -12
Brightness -2
Sharpness 0 or -1
Brilliant Color On
Iris closed

Gamma Mode - Cinema
High = 0
Mid = 0
Low = 0

Contrast R 17
Contrast G 0
Contrast B -9
Brightness R -2
Brightness G 0
Brightness B 3

Screensize 720p 16:9
Lamp Mode - Low

On My Panasonic S97 via HDMI I now output at 480P rather than 720P, the picture is much smoother and sharper, colors more defined. So obviously the scaler on the Mitsu is doing a better job than inside the S97. There is also less noise in the picture.

Settings on the Panasonic are
Auto enhancer off
All values at 0 except for

Contrast -1
Brightness +2

I feed it using 480p, RGB mode, with Auto1 setting

I'd be interested to know what you all think? Remember it was calibrated to a Firehawk.

I'm also in the process of mounting the projector as far back in the room as I can manage, this will make sure I get the best out of the Firehawk.

Good viewing all!

Cheers, William

Thanks William :)

I have not received my HC3000 yet but as I mentioned I have a 106' Firehawk and will be using my Oppo 971 DVD player that I have been using with great success with my soon to be retired IF 4805.

I have S97 and i also think that HC3000 is making better job at 720p. Gray ramps in DVE are more smooth with 576p from panny. I can´t see any picture quality rise when i let panny scale to 720p. But picture quality doesn`t get clearly much worse either, only that gray ramps aren´t smooth and 4:3 don´t work automatically.
I tried your settings Billy TT. I saw light gray turn towards pink and light blue sky and light gray clouds became a little bit brownish. Red color by itself looked much improved and more true red, it was just that the red now spilled to other colours also. Same settings with S97, contrast -1 to avoid the white crush in whiter than white and +2 brightness to get the blacker than black, and good shadow detail.
I don´t have a comparison point calibrated to D65 so i don´t know for sure. I´m still at learning process right now.

Seems like several users have been using a Chief universal mount for this PJ. So, how close to the ceiling can you get with this PJ? (center of lens to ceiling distance)

I'm trying to fit this into a low-ceiling basement without having to keystone.

Thanks for your measurements.

From my crude measurements it the center of the projector lense is about 4.5" from the ceiling. Two inches for the projector and 2.5" for the universal chief mount.

I'd be interested to know what you all think? Remember it was calibrated to a Firehawk.

Those numbers worked very well for my setup. I have S97 and I am projecting on a da-lite high power. Yes, I need to get a low gain screen for this projector.

I agree with J.Smith about red spill. I think these numbers will be perfect after 100 hours on the lamp.

Thanks Billy for the calibration numbers. Please provide the calibration numbers for the component input if you have them.


Edit: I spoke too soon. The calibration numbers are not really working for me. I guess Firehawk screen is very special.

I tried your settings Billy TT. I saw light gray turn towards pink and light blue sky and light gray clouds became a little bit brownish.

Using someone else's calibration settings will almost never work properly with projectors. Proper calibration is dependant on a number of factors such as screen gain, image size, color of the room walls, and ambient light. Every person's room has different requirements.

There are some settings (such as which Gamma mode to use or whether to turn BrilliantColor on or off) that people should be able to reach a consensus opinion on, but the specifics of where to set your Brightness, Contrast, and colors are going to vary from room to room.

Any (and all) recommendations of screens by manufacturers, gain, grades and useability in different ambient light conditions for this projector would be extremely appreciated.

If this has been covered already, my apologies.....please point me to it.
(I've tried a cursory search in this thread without much luck)

Thanks.

I second the screen request. I just got my HC3000 on Friday. My local Mits dealer recommended a DaLite Cinema Contour with CinemaVision 1.3 gain and 45 degree angle support. I do have a dedicated theater room with complete light control, but I did tell him I plan to run lamp in low mode and will likely have iris closed. I think that is why he went with a 1+ gain screen. Any other opinions? Also, I have a low ceiling so I plan to build a custom box (not complete hush as I will leave the front completely open and have side holes to match the pj vents) that I will line with sound absorbing foam and may want to add some fans to help move air. I noticed Mits states the unit must be at least 12" from the back wall. any suggestions/concerns about my plans?

Re Screens & Ventilation.

As you probably know the screen choice is greatly influenced by size (area), light vs dark walls, seating and other variables. I think the HCCV is a good choice... not knowing any facts regarding your theater. Give us more info and/or go to the screen thread and readup.

I would be very careful with the "box" as these PJ are little heaters ie 300watts. The HC3000 is rated at 25-26 db on low lamp and probably would not require a hushbox..certainly not like my IF4805 which sounds a bit like a helicopter.

Hi Jesjammin,

Some thoughts on the HC3000 noise levels:

1. The fan inside the unit is very quiet, in fact the fan itself is quieter than my old Sanyo Z3. I know this because when I power the unit down, the DLP color wheel stops spinning and then there is this almost inperceptible whirr from the fan. So forget the fan, that does not truly cause noise.

2. The color wheel is just a tad louder than the internal fan and this varies depending on the material you play on it (PAL vs. NTSC) Since I live in Europe, most of my DVD's are PAL format, live TV & SAT as well. Since PAL runs at 50 frames/sec, the color wheel spins slower with PAL and also quieter then when it's on NTSC. So if you really want to get this very quiet, think about sound insulation that filters the 200-300Hz frequency range... Also db ratings are very very subjective... For me at least the noise this projector produces is nice and at the sametime quiet.

I have the PJ mounted directly above my head, I'd guess sitting down, must be approx. 3.5 to 4 feet above my head and noise is a non issue for me, you only hear something when the audio in the film goes completely silent. (I use low lamp mode)

The Mitsu puts out a lot more heat than my old Z3, I'd think twice about boxing it in...

Thanks guys, here is some more info as you requested.

size (area) = 15.5 W x 16.5 L x 7.5 H (lower ceiling than I would like)
light vs dark walls = med dark blue walls and very dark blue (almost navy) ceiling - WAF.
seating = 4 Berkline 090's at about 12 feet from screen
other variables = dark carpet (blue/red/yellow patterned w/black border),
no windows and complete light control (basement location),
at current 6" off the rear wall, the pj is about 14.5' from the screen location,
using a 30' HDMI from both DVD player and comcast box using a Gefen switcher, anything else i am missing??



As for the box, I can say I found the projector noise objectionable at high lamp output. Low lamp definitely makes it tolerable, but i do hear it at quite moments. I am probably more sensitive to this since the HC3000 is my first projector and I also use the room as a fairly critical listening room (B&W N801s and N surrounds, Pass Labs and Bryston amps, B&K processor if anyone cares), not that it matters since I won't have the pj on when listening to music only. The main problem I have with not using a box is that my metal rig I dreamed up to hold the pj close to the ceiling would look dog ugly without something covering it. I guess i could fall back to he Chief mount, though I fear even 6 inches could be tough for me. I have a 1' bulkhead above my screen location and a 6" riser with the B&W N HTM1 center speaker below it, which I would prefer to be as high up as possible.

As a side note, while I am not a long time pj owner, I can say I am completely blown away by the picture quaility so far, especially with good DVDs like "the 5th element SB" and any HD programming. I saw no artifacts, no rainbows, no dead pixels, nothing negative so far. I did not expect it to look so good using a cheapo Samsung DVD player (while i wait for my Pio DV-79avi to arrive), an older Motorola cable box, and projecting onto a white sheet! I was glued to it last night at midnight watching HD programming when my wife came looking for me :)

This could become very addictive I fear!

Hey billyTT, do you really think the fan noise is in the 200-300Hz range? I would have guessed much higher, but as a drummer, tonal analysis was never my strong point. I ask because i have some 2" Auralex Wedgies lying around and planned to use them. Unfortunitely, they are not very good at the <500Hz range. If i recall they have about a .3 -.5 AC down that low.

Dear All,

I'm writing from Italy and after reading your posts, I decided to buy this beautifull machine here in Italy at a very good price. I've seen many projectors and I think the best projector I've seen so far is the Metavision cht726, a not well known machine but capable of delivering a stunning picture....I can say that I saw well an Optoma H79 for example and I think the Metavision is probably a better machine. I like very much deep blacks and contrast, I think they are the most important elements in an image. I sold a few days ago a Toshiba Mt200, connected with my HTPC was capable to deliver a very beautiful picture and some friends of maine who have some good machine such as panny 900 or Z4 or the H79 were quite impressed when they say the image of the little MT200, so I think this could be a very solid leap in this beautifull world....

Do you belive the HC3000 is capable to deliver a such beautifull image such as the Metavision does? I've already decided but I would like to hear your thoughts
I will use it exclusively connected with my HTPC for the best quality possible

Thank you very much and sorry for my bad english...


remenekeps

Thank you all for your comments. My theater room is very unfriendly to FPs.... all white walls, slanted sides (terrible for audio reflections, etc), not very deep (13 ft), big window with inadequate light control and so on. However if I want FP, wifey insists on little to no change to surroundings :(
My plan is to buy the HC3000, set it up, have her watch movies and gorgeous HD and start to point out how room changes could transform our lives :) After all she is not totally unreasonable, she's actually looking forward to getting the projector ;)

All your comments are very helpful!

HDNW

Cruise over to the screen forum and search for info on white walls.

A grey screen may help ambient reflections if you have a narrow viewing cone.

The HC3000 has enough light output to blast onto a grey screen.

Just got it... Fumbling with box...tears coming to eyes...can't type.... :)

HDNW

I second Kosty's advice. All of the walls of my living room are white, and I am running the HC3000 on a Carada high-contrast gray screen (67" wide but planning to move to a 82" wide screen). I tried to project on the white wall, but couldn't get blacks as black as I can get them with the Carada screen. Also, the HC3000 has absolutely no problem getting vivid colors and bright whites on the gray screen.

You should consider this solution.

Ales

Ales & Kosty,

Thanks for the pointers!
Will take the advice and do some research.....won't have the HC-3000 till 2nd week of December.

Has anyone actually measured the lumens on this projector?

I did a quick search of this thread and looked at some reviews, but haven't seen it anywhere. It's one of the few questions I still have, so knowing this might nudge me off the fence.

Another offset question:

Mine is a basement, rear projection question. The distance from the top of the viewing portion of my 100" screen to the bottom of the floor joist is 15.5 inches.

Am I correct that the difference in using the projector in 1280x720 mode instead of 1280x768 mode amounts to about 3"

768 lines - 720 lines = 48 lines.
720 lines / 49 inch screen height = 14.7 lines per inch
48 lines / 14.7 lines per inch = 3.25 inches

Am I correct that this difference can be used as a manual lens shift, of sorts, such that my offset would be 15.5 inches + 3.25 inches = 18.75 inches - 2 inches (distance from bottom of projector to center of lens) = 16.75 inches, which is right near the 16.9 inch offset the owner's manual says I need?

Larry

Hi!

I recently bought the HC3000 and I'm very, very pleased with it. Today I bought a VGA cable to be able to hook up the projector with my pc. I have now tried different resolutions both with the standard graphics driver and then with powerstrip. The Problem is now that I can't 1:1 pixelmap the picture with 1280 x 720 res. I'm able to sync, but the picture is very overscanned and not particulary sharp. When I go with 1280 x 768 I'm getting better results with a much sharper picture, but not 100% pixelmapped. I have a 16/9 screen so that's why I want 1280 x720 res. Does anyone know how to solve this?

/Robert

I have the exact same problem. Anyone here that tried ans solved this?

:confused: :( :mad:

/Oscar

Selling old gear?

I apologize for this off-topic question, but what do you guys do with old projectors? I just replaced a Mitsu XD300 with the HC3000, and would like to sell the XD300. What do you suggest? Ebay? Am I going to ship it and never see the money?

Thanks,
Ales

Don't ship it until you get the money. Sounds simple but it actually is. I've had good experiences w/ ebay. You're the seller. You can stipulate how you will receive payment. You can express cash only, check (make sure it clears first) paypall, whatever. You can specify no returns will be allowed or whatever. It's basicly up to you and buyer beware. You only risk that no one will be interested in your product if your stipulations are too high.

the hc300u uses a 1280x768 native dlp chip that may be the reason. but it does seem you should still be able to get 1:1 pixel perfect 1280x720 just with a few extra lines on top or bottom or both. jeff

I have the exact same problem. Anyone here that tried ans solved this?

:confused: :( :mad:

/Oscar

Check post# 505 for solution.

Regarding the 1:1 issue, you need to enter the Signal menu to set overscan to be 100% to get 1:1 mapping.

http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/532/naamloos8lt.png (http://imageshack.us)

If you look at my picture, how about the distance problems with the HC-3000? A'm I going to have any?

And how is the HC-3000 compared to the Optoma H79?

What's the distance from screen to projector, from ceiling to top of screen and from ceiling to center of the lense?

The User Manuel cautions that the projector should be placed at least 20" from the wall to facilitate ventilation. It appears in your diagram that you will be placing the pj pretty tight against the rear wall.

FYI, Sanderdvd...

I tried to get this answered before, but you can't shelf mount the projector high on the wall. I don't think you can at least. It's really made for a ceiling mount. I guess you can't invert the image unless the unit it flipped over (via a ceiling mount).

Bud

All,

I just recieved my PERM-WALL Audio Vision 133 Inch diagonal Da-Lite screen; the picture is fenomenal from my hc3000, but I do notice quite a lot of verical streaks on the screen especially on a bright background. It's really getting to be anoying and I can't deal with it anymore. Based on some comments on this forum it sounds that the problem is the screen not the projector.

Did any of you have this issue with Da-Lite screens? if yes, what screen did you use replace it with to cure the problem. Do you suggest i replace it with another Da-Lite screen, if yes which one?

thnks in advance,

-afrim

http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/7774/naamloos6un.png (http://imageshack.us)

I just made a new drawing of my HT-room cause it is slightly different than the other drawing. This is how my old pj was set up. And yes, there was not much space between the wall and the pj. There is enough space between the ceiling and the pj so that should give no problems. I will measure everything tonight.

So, you're planning on mounting your PJ upside down on a shelf instead of mounting it on the ceiling? How do you plan on keeping it level?

So, you're planning on mounting your PJ upside down on a shelf instead of mounting it on the ceiling? How do you plan on keeping it level?


with my old pj (NEC LT81) it was possible to put it upside down without having problems. I assume that this is not doable with this one..... (shame, shame.....)
Is it not possible with this pj to flip the screen?

You could, but since the top is rounded, you would need to support the sides to keep it level. You can flip the picture, but the projector needs to be upside down to accomodate for the offset.

You could, but since the top is rounded, you would need to support the sides to keep it level. You can flip the picture, but the projector needs to be upside down to accomodate for the offset.

what is the offset (again shame on me.....)?
I m a newbie...

ok, let's assume I'm going for the mount ceiling. The following setup on my room will than be something like this:

http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/2917/naamloos3dp.png (http://imageshack.us)

what things do I have to measure tonight? The green and blue one? And which red one?

I have my HC-3000 projected on a 100" Firehawk at 136" distance. The ceiling to center of lens is 6.5". It has 3 degrees of upward tilt. I need to move it further from the screen in order to fill the entire screen. My ceiling is painted midnight blue with light colored sidewalls (soon to be covered with black felt material which also surrounds the front screen). The blacks are just about the same as they were on my Optoma H78DC3. I have not calibrated my HC 3000 with the light meter yet so I may be able to improve the black level even more. The Firehawk screen has a 1.3 gain factor and is the best choice for this projector. The Firehawk has a flawless finish with NO streaks.

I use an Oppo dvd player with a dvi output to the projector's HDMI input with an adapter on the projector. I have noticed that the Oppo when used with a dvi projector (Optoma H78DC#) actually had a sharper picture than what I can get using the dvi to hdmi connection. In the HC 3000 owner's manual it does say that you may not experience a good quality picture when using a dvi to hdmi cable. It also talks about the different range of digital video levels represented by the DVI standard vs. HDMI. Has anyone else noticed a "softness" when using a dvi output from a dvd player with the HDMI input of this projector?????????? :rolleyes: All,

I just recieved my PERM-WALL Audio Vision 133 Inch diagonal Da-Lite screen; the picture is fenomenal from my hc3000, but I do notice quite a lot of verical streaks on the screen especially on a bright background. It's really getting to be anoying and I can't deal with it anymore. Based on some comments on this forum it sounds that the problem is the screen not the projector.

Did any of you have this issue with Da-Lite screens? if yes, what screen did you use replace it with to cure the problem. Do you suggest i replace it with another Da-Lite screen, if yes which one?

thnks in advance,

-afrim

and another question about setup that I drawed:
Am I going to be in trouble because of the fact that the red line 1 is not horizontal with the upper of my screen? Is key-stone the feature with pjs that solves this?

The first thing you should do is take a look at the manual. A .pdf version was attached to a post on this page or one page back. It has a pretty good explanation there. Once you have read this post any further questions to clear everything up.

You could, but since the top is rounded, you would need to support the sides to keep it level. You can flip the picture, but the projector needs to be upside down to accomodate for the offset.

Although I cannot get this pj because of the offsset requirement, I am still checkin ginon the thread.

I have my current pj mounted upside down on a high shelf. It, too, has a rounded top. It rests upside down on a pillow filled with rice. It is easy to wiggle it into a level position and to procede with any ceiling mount settings in the pj.

Shelly

I use an Oppo dvd player with a dvi output to the projector's HDMI input with an adapter on the projector. I have noticed that the Oppo when used with a dvi projector (Optoma H78DC#) actually had a sharper picture than what I can get using the dvi to hdmi connection.

Are you sure this isn't just a difference in sharpness between the two projectors, rather than something to do with the connection type?

The first thing you should do is take a look at the manual. A .pdf version was attached to a post on this page or one page back. It has a pretty good explanation there. Once you have read this post any further questions to clear everything up.

I did try to read the manual already but my english is not good. I hoped that someone could tell me something about which I exactly have to measure (which of the 4 red lines and if the green and blue lines are neccesary to too measure).

And if it is a problem that the top of my screen is not horizontal with the lens of the pj.

sanderdvd,

the projector does have an offset so you will not have the center of the lense even with the top of the screen. Measure the blue line, the green line and the very top red line, then let us know the measurements.

My back wall slopes just like yours and I use a Cheif RPA-U.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/brian.corr@sbcglobal.net/detail?.dir=cf91&.dnm=7406re2.jpg&.src=ph

sanderdvd,

the projector does have an offset so you will not have the center of the lense even with the top of the screen. Measure the blue line, the green line and the very top red line, then let us know the measurements.

My back wall slopes just like yours and I use a Cheif RPA-U.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/brian.corr@sbcglobal.net/detail?.dir=cf91&.dnm=7406re2.jpg&.src=ph

thxz!
If I want to know the exact measure of the green and blue line, I need to know the distance between the middle of the pj lens and the ceiling am I correct? If this is so, than I need to know what the distance from the lens the the ceiling will be if i'm going to use the ceiling mount which fits for this pj (maybe it is delivered when you buy a HC-3000? Or is it optional?)

[QUOTE=sanderdvd]http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/7774/naamloos6un.png (http://imageshack.us)

That chair looks like it may break be careful son.

All,

I just recieved my PERM-WALL Audio Vision 133 Inch diagonal Da-Lite screen; the picture is fenomenal from my hc3000, but I do notice quite a lot of verical streaks on the screen especially on a bright background. It's really getting to be anoying and I can't deal with it anymore. Based on some comments on this forum it sounds that the problem is the screen not the projector.



You can enable the LPF (page 29 in the user manual) found in the signal menu.

I am thinking of going with Vutec Vu-easy 133" diagonal screen with britewhite material (1.5 gain).

thxz!
If I want to know the exact measure of the green and blue line, I need to know the distance between the middle of the pj lens and the ceiling am I correct? If this is so, than I need to know what the distance from the lens the the ceiling will be if i'm going to use the ceiling mount which fits for this pj (maybe it is delivered when you buy a HC-3000? Or is it optional?)

thxz!
If I want to know the exact measure of the green and blue line, I need to know the distance between the middle of the pj lens and the ceiling am I correct? If this is so, than I need to know what the distance from the lens the the ceiling will be if i'm going to use the ceiling mount which fits for this pj (maybe it is delivered when you buy a HC-3000? Or is it optional?)

Regarding the 1:1 issue, you need to enter the Signal menu to set overscan to be 100% to get 1:1 mapping.

From the previous posts, no one was able to get it to work in 768 resolution, only 720. Has anyone gotten 1:1 with 768 yet? It almost defeats the purpose of having 768 vertical, if it can't be used with a computer.

Michael

The User Manuel cautions that the projector should be placed at least 20" from the wall to facilitate ventilation. It appears in your diagram that you will be placing the pj pretty tight against the rear wall.

Is Mitsubishi being overly conservative on the 20" from the wall figure? That puts the front of the projector 32", almost 3 feet, into the room! That could put this unit out of contention for more people than the lack of lens shift.

In comparison, I looked at the Panasonic PT-AE900U manual, and they don't have this restriction. They say just to not cover the vents.

Michael

What is so important about getting 1:1 mapping on the projector? Is it basically to eliminate the scaling of the 720p or 768p signal by the projector, so that the only scaling is the one performed by the DVD player?

How does one check whether the PJ is doing a 1:1 mapping?

Ales

Yes, I also like to know how can you check if your PJ is doing 1:1 mapping ?
How can you tell (from some posts) that your PJ is overscan by XX number of lines ? How can you count # of lines missing ?
My HT1000 is setting 0% overscan to get full image - but someone here mention setting HC3000 with 100% overscan to get 1:1 mapping ! IS this setting equivalent to 0% on NEC machine ?

Thanks
Thuan

thxz!
i'm going to use the ceiling mount which fits for this pj (maybe it is delivered when you buy a HC-3000? Or is it optional?)

The mount is separate... around $200

Measure the #1 line and find the chart on one of the previous pages. (example: if the PJ is 14.5' away from the wall, the top of the image will be approximately 20" from the ceiling (your green line). Add 20" to your screen height and that will give you the distance from the ceiling to the bottom of your screen.

I'm still speachless as far as the PJ goes. Right now it's construction, construction, construction.............

Michael,
Mine is mounted within 6-8" of the back wall, no problems. 2-3" is plenty when it's also open on the other sides.

Afilipi and Thuan,
I think some are using an HTPC and that's where the 1:1 mapping comes into play. If you use a DVD player like 99% of people will, it's not an issue.

Is Mitsubishi being overly conservative on the 20" from the wall figure? That puts the front of the projector 32", almost 3 feet, into the room! That could put this unit out of contention for more people than the lack of lens shift.

In comparison, I looked at the Panasonic PT-AE900U manual, and they don't have this restriction. They say just to not cover the vents.

Michael

How can you block inlet and outlet grilles when they are in left and right side of the projector, and in front of the projector. Most of the hot air comes out and cooling air goes in from the front of the projector. I think that 20" warning is for rear projection installation, at least that´s where it is located in the manual. How does that rear projection then work if you set your projector so close to the screen? Or wall as it says in manual?
Also it says in manual that long time viewing of 4:3 image can leave after image to 16:9 screen?
I have kept my HC900 and HC3000 so close to rear wall as i can, to get big enough picture, because that zoom is not very good. No overheating problems have ever occurred or abnormally high fan speeds.

ok, here we go:

line 1 is 350 cm
the green line is approx. 5-10 cm
the blue line is approx. 200 cm
the diagonal of my screen is 220 cm (this is what i really see without the black bars).

So will my screen be fulled completely and do I get no other problems? (if I'm going to use the ceiling mount)

Afilipi and Thuan,
I think some are using an HTPC and that's where the 1:1 mapping comes into play. If you use a DVD player like 99% of people will, it's not an issue.

Thanks Brian,
My question is in general - my HT1000 is feeding DVI XGA rez (768p) from my Momitsu. How can I tell if it's truly 1:1 mapping (mean bypass internal scaler) ?

Regards
Thuan

Are you sure this isn't just a difference in sharpness between the two projectors, rather than something to do with the connection type?


The sharpness on the Optoma is the same as the Mitsu. I base this finding on the picture sharpness that I get from my Direct TV dvi output when it was connected to each projector. Now even with the dvi to hdmi adapter on the direct tv output, it is still as good as it was on the Optoma so it seems that the Oppo may not like the hdmi connection/adapter.

How can you block inlet and outlet grilles when they are in left and right side of the projector, and in front of the projector. Most of the hot air comes out and cooling air goes in from the front of the projector.

I was looking at the manual, and they show at least one outlet on the back left.

Michael

:) Cine4home.de is stating that they will have their detailed test report on the picture quality of the HC3000U up on Saturday! :)

ok, let's assume I'm going for the mount ceiling. The following setup on my room will than be something like this:

http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/2917/naamloos3dp.png (http://imageshack.us)

what things do I have to measure tonight? The green and blue one? And which red one?


ok, here we go:

line 1 is 350 cm
the green line is approx. 5-10 cm
the blue line is approx. 200 cm
the diagonal of my screen is 220 cm (this is what i really see without the black bars).

So will my screen be fulled completely and do I get no other problems? (if I'm going to use the ceiling mount of Mits.)

ok, here we go:

line 1 is 350 cm
the green line is approx. 5-10 cm
the blue line is approx. 200 cm
the diagonal of my screen is 220 cm (this is what i really see without the black bars).

So will my screen be fulled completely and do I get no other problems? (if I'm going to use the ceiling mount of Mits.)

For the diagonal size of 220 cm for 16:9 screen:
- throw distance is 312-381 cm (OK)
- vertical offset (green line) is 36 cm (1/3 of screen height) (NOT OK)

You should move the screen lower. Your screen height is 108 cm, this leaves the bottom of the screen approx 90 cm from the floor. If you move the screen 30 cm lower (bottom at 60 cm from the floor) you'll get the required 36 cm for the offset.

Other option would be to tilt the projector up a bit, and tilt the screen so that no keystone correction is needed.

This based on the info on the page 12 of the HC3000 manual.

Jarno

Thanks Brian,
My question is in general - my HT1000 is feeding DVI XGA rez (768p) from my Momitsu. How can I tell if it's truly 1:1 mapping (mean bypass internal scaler) ?

Regards
Thuan

Have you tried the "REAL" mode for the aspect ratio (instead of "4:3", "16:9" etc.)? According to the manual "Input signal is displayed in its original size." in this mode.

Jarno

For the diagonal size of 220 cm for 16:9 screen:
- throw distance is 312-381 cm (OK)
- vertical offset (green line) is 36 cm (1/3 of screen height) (NOT OK)

You should move the screen lower. Your screen height is 108 cm, this leaves the bottom of the screen approx 90 cm from the floor. If you move the screen 30 cm lower (bottom at 60 cm from the floor) you'll get the required 36 cm for the offset.

Other option would be to tilt the projector up a bit, and tilt the screen so that no keystone correction is needed.

This based on the info on the page 12 of the HC3000 manual.

Jarno

I don't really understand. The screen is already +- 60cm from the floor and the green line will come almost horizontal with the lens of the HC-3000. (think that this will be max. 10cm difference). You have to know too that the distance between the ceiling and the ground is very little......

I was looking at the manual, and they show at least one outlet on the back left.

Michael

You are right, there´s one air outlet too. Nothing much coming out of it though.
Seems that air is going in or coming out from every corner of this projector.

I don't really understand. The screen is already +- 60cm from the floor and the green line will come almost horizontal with the lens of the HC-3000. (think that this will be max. 10cm difference). You have to know too that the distance between the ceiling and the ground is very little......

Based on the info you have given your room height is about 220cm, and your screen top is at around 200cm from the floor. If your screen bottom is at 60cm, your screen height is 140cm. If your screen diagonal is 220, your screen width is 170 cm, which would make your screen taller than a 4:3 screen.

There is something wrong with your screen dimensions, how about measuring the width and height of your screen?

Jarno

Based on the info you have given your room height is about 220cm, and your screen top is at around 200cm from the floor. If your screen bottom is at 60cm, your screen height is 140cm. If your screen diagonal is 220, your screen width is 170 cm, which would make your screen taller than a 4:3 screen.

There is something wrong with your screen dimensions, how about measuring the width and height of your screen?

Jarno

When I'm at home tonight I will measure some more and tell you this. Where are you from? (are you online tonight at 19:00?)

You are right, there´s one air outlet too. Nothing much coming out of it though.
Seems that air is going in or coming out from every corner of this projector.

In which direction does it blow the most hot air? My current projector has its main outlet on the right side, which happens to blow directly onto a seat there. My wife complains about this endlessly.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it vents out front I believe.

Bud

Most of the hot air comes out from the front. Very little comes from one side and from back, even hard to notice that when i tested it today.

Placed my order today. Should have it sometime next week.

Thanks to everyone in the thread for helping me make up my mind!

FYI, Sanderdvd...

I tried to get this answered before, but you can't shelf mount the projector high on the wall. I don't think you can at least. It's really made for a ceiling mount. I guess you can't invert the image unless the unit it flipped over (via a ceiling mount).

Bud

How about this? Doesn't tilt/swivel though.

https://www.sanus.com/images/VMAVb.jpg

My projector should be arriving on Monday after a very long wait.

Couple of quick questions.

I am planning to use this projector with a 103" diagonal 16.9 screen. Based on my reading of the manual I can place the projector 14 feet 5 inches from the screen so am I reading the manual correctly?

Based on the above throw distance is the offset 16.5"? Therefore would the screen viewing area need to be at least 21" from the ceiling (i.e., 16.5" + 2" 1/2 of projector height + 2.5" mount (chief universal))?

How much shift do you get via the digital shift "vertical location"?

My projector should be arriving on Monday after a very long wait.

Couple of quick questions.

I am planning to use this projector with a 103" diagonal 16.9 screen. Based on my reading of the manual I can place the projector 14 feet 5 inches from the screen so am I reading the manual correctly?

Based on the above throw distance is the offset 16.5"? Therefore would the screen viewing area need to be at least 21" from the ceiling (i.e., 16.5" + 2" 1/2 of projector height + 2.5" mount (chief universal))?

How much shift do you get via the digital shift "vertical location"?

Your numbers seem to be correct. That is exactly where I was planning to mount my PJ; however, the ceiling joists are at 13.5 then 15.5. So, I had to make a decision. I chose to mount it at 13.5 feet. At that distance, a 103" diag puts the zoom in the middle. At 14.5' it will be "zoomed in" almost all of the way, but that will give you the potential to go 121" diag if you choose (which is what I wanted to do.

Your offset numbers look good also. I am in the middle of installing my PJ right now. I have an angled ceiling that angles up from 8' left to 12' right. My PJ will be mounted in the middle at 9.5', so I'm getting an angled cieling mount which adds 4" plus a 6" extention. That will put my pic about 28-30" from the ceiling. The angled piece will arrive at my door tomorrow.

I really can't answer you digital shift question.

So far, so good..

I have to say that "out of the box", I was not impressed at all. The picture was virtually non-existent. I did not see a noticeable improvement in the picture quality until I plugged it in and turned it on.

I have not messed with any settings, because my PJ is not in its final mounted position. So far I’ve fed it signals from the cables I plan to use 1-35’ HDMI (DVR), 1-35’ component (DVD), 1-35’ svideo (VCR/Tivo), and 1-50’ VGA (PC). All I can say is “awesome”. HDMI and component both carry a great picture. I honestly can’t tell the difference in quality, but my wife says the HDMI picture looks “cleaner”.

HDMI:
HDTV looks better than I could have ever imagined. I watched “Spanglish” on HBO HD and Monday Night football in HD. The 5.1 was really nice too. I am only accustomed to 5.1 when watching DVD movies, but the 5.1 combined with HD of that size is breathtaking.

Component:
I watched “Saving Private Ryan” and “The Matrix” on DVD. I started “Saving Private Ryan” just to check out the picture, but I was so riveted, I ended up watching the entire movie. I’ve seen that movie about 6 times, but never like that. Now, The Matrix was really nice and I enjoyed it, but “squeezed” 2.2:1 is more pronounced after watching 1.85:1. I know you can stretch it, but I wouldn’t do that either. I’m not disappointed at all, just surprised.

S-video:
After hearing everyone bash SDTV, I was expecting the worse. I was pleasantly surprised. My wife and I are very happy watching SDTV over S-video. The source does make a difference also. We did notice an increase in quality when switching from the Tivo’s S-video out to the HD-DVR S-video out. We still like the picture quality from the Tivo, which is a very good thing as we still wanted to use it.

VGA:
“B-E-A-Utiful”. Now, that is the biggest damn computer monitor I have ever had. It is crisp, and very clean. I’ve tried many different settings, but so far I have found 1280x1024 to be my favorite. I know there is scaling involved, but it just looks the best to me. I will fiddle a bit more with it when it is mounted. I was a little concerned about the long run, but it looks the same at 5’ as it does at 50’.

I have to say I am blown away by this PJ. I can’t tell you how it pairs up with the new LCD’s, but I can’t see how someone could be disappointed at all with this PJ. It is just a superb piece of equipment. I have been taking pictures throughout the construction, I will post them soon. I promise.

Right now, all the wires are run. I am in the process of patching the walls and ceiling from the wire runs. I will install the mount and PJ tomorrow. That will give me until Monday to sand, spackle, and paint my screen (Behr Silver Screen) before Monday. On Monday, a painter is coming to paint the room (medium brown). At that point, I will have to assemble the entertainment system, hang the drapes, and move everything back into the room. The hard part is over (I think). I will keep all who are interested updated on the progress.

V/R,
Rob

Thanks Brian,
My question is in general - my HT1000 is feeding DVI XGA rez (768p) from my Momitsu. How can I tell if it's truly 1:1 mapping (mean bypass internal scaler) ?

Regards
Thuan

I think probably the best way is to feed it a signal from a computer, where the graphic is alternative black and white horizontal lines. It you have 1:1 mapping, then all the lines should look the same from top to bottom. If not, then you will get some aliasing, and there will be wide bands of darker and lighter areas. Also changing the color of line 1 and 768 will tell you if they are in the range of the picture, and not overscanning off.

Michael

Right now, all the wires are run. I am in the process of patching the walls and ceiling from the wire runs. I will install the mount and PJ tomorrow. That will give me until Monday to sand, spackle, and paint my screen (Behr Silver Screen) before Monday. On Monday, a painter is coming to paint the room (medium brown). At that point, I will have to assemble the entertainment system, hang the drapes, and move everything back into the room. The hard part is over (I think). I will keep all who are interested updated on the progress.
I know I'm very interested in your progress.

What made you decide to go with Behr Silver Screen? and where do you get it?

Let's see some pictures of your theatre. :)

HDMI / DVI-M / Oppo question

I have a 4805 and Oppo 971 using the Infocus DVI to DVI M 10 meter cable. Works fine.

I am replacing the 4805 (DVI-M) with the HC3000 (HDMI). Do I just adapt the DVI-M at the projector with a DVI-M to hdmi adapter or ??

I have seen comments regarding Oppo problems with HC3000. Has anyone used the Oppo (DVI) with the HC3000 (HDMI) sucessfully?

I have to say that "out of the box", I was not impressed at all. The picture was virtually non-existent. I did not see a noticeable improvement in the picture quality until I plugged it in and turned it on.

It's funny how that works! :D

The Matrix was really nice and I enjoyed it, but “squeezed” 2.2:1 is more pronounced after watching 1.85:1. I know you can stretch it, but I wouldn’t do that either. I’m not disappointed at all, just surprised.

What do you mean by that?

Has anyone been using the internal scaler/deinterlacer of the mits? i was at a local dealer and there was a jitteryness to the picture since it was being fed 1080i from hd satellite box. It seemed to go away when satellite box was switched to output 720p (although picture was softer then).

they might of had some AC power interference too, dvd signal has some vertical noise.

When watching 2.2:1, the black bars on the top and bottom are bigger. I guess saying "squeezed" wouldn't be proper. Films shot at 1.85:1 will fill the screen. I never really noticed the difference on my small TV although it was there. The difference is just more pronounced on the big screen. Not a problem, just an observation. Let me know your feelings on this. Maybe I'm not being clear or maybe I am missing something in my assessment.

By the way: My DVD player is outputting a 480i signal and the Mits is doing the scaling. I think it looks just great.

When watching 2.2:1, the black bars on the top and bottom are bigger. I guess saying "squeezed" wouldn't be proper. Films shot at 1.85:1 will fill the screen. I never really noticed the difference on my small TV although it was there. The difference is just more pronounced on the big screen. Not a problem, just an observation. Let me know your feelings on this. Maybe I'm not being clear or maybe I am missing something in my assessment.


Maybe you had more overscan on your small TV? That way the difference would look smaller between the aspect ratios?

Jarno

rcrymes read this article on Anamorphic DVDs, one of my favorite links (make sure you click on Widescreen 0 Rama links too!)

You are probably for the first time seeing the movie the way the director intended. Enjoy.

http://www.thedigitalbits.com/articles/anamorphic/welcome.html

Also the Widescreen Advocacy Page

http://www.widescreen.org/index.shtml

Does anybody know all the IR codes the HC3000 accepts? I'm trying to program my Radio Shack universal remote (JP1 computer hack), and was curious if there are discreet codes for the digital vertical shift up and down. This way, I could shift the image without going through the PJ menu.

My old Mitsubishi projector accepted discreet codes for which there were no buttons on the remote, so it's definitely something that can happen.

Ales

There was an effort a few pages back to discuss the "optimal" settings for the HC3000. Below are my two cents. I am feeding the PJ a 720p signal over HDMI from an Oppo 971H player, and projecting on a Carada grey screen (67" wide). As you can see, I am still sticking with Brilliant Color off. I turned it on and recalibrated the settings to a picture I like, but it turned out to be indistinguishable from the settings below. As many already pointed out, the M1, M2, and M3 buttons are incredibly helpful for comparing various settings.

Gamma Mode: Cinema
Contrast: 0
Brightness: +1
Color Temp: User
Sharpness: +3
Brilliant Color: OFF

Contrast Red: +3
Contrast Green : 0
Contrast Blue: 0
Brightness Red: 0
Brightness Green: -3
Brightness Blue: 0

Overscan: 100%
Lamp Mode: Low
Iris: Open

How do you set overscan in the HDMI input mode?? Mine is grayed out unless a different input is selected (besides HDMI).

Thanks

OK,

I just got rid of my 7700 and picked up this 3000. After a few hours of calibrating it is clear that this projector has a much better picture due to the higher contrast. It is very obvious IMO. I like the Brilliant color ON as it exaggerates it. I am connected to pioneer 59avi thru HDMI playing at 720P. I have noticed, however, that I cannot get Blacker than Black with this projector where the 7700 showed fine. Color saturation will not work via HDMI either, so I have to use the players adjustment for this. I also think the 7700 has a nicer case/housing, but in the end, I think the 3000 has a much deeper, more of a 3d picture which I REALLY like. I also like how the Brilliant color brightens things up while keeping the blacks deep (although it actually seems to REMOVE color in some cases).

My 2 cents.

For all waiting...the final review is up @ cine4home.de

Low noise picture and operation...

2300:1 @ d65k

Out of box needs cal, but VERY flat after...

Smooth tracking gamma

Decent optics...

Only negatives are some Pal DI issues and Offset


For the price it seems like a no-brainer....


Looks good...


TJ

Dr Fuzz:

I can change the Overscan value with every input, including HDMI.

Re cine4home review

I can only get few pages to translate then the remander reverts to german. Can anyone post a full translation or tell this dummy how to get the full translation.

Thanks

translation links

http://babelfish.altavista.com
or
http://www.google.com/language_tools?hl=en
or
http://www.worldlingo.com/
or
http://www.online-translator.com/srvurl.asp?lang=en

from the online translator

(to use it. 1. go to cine4home.de site. 2. rIght click on link to open link in new window without frame 3. Copy web address (right click on web address) 4. open up oneline translator web page. 5. paste address in form, 6. select german to english 7. hit translate 8. get a beer, 9. read :)

or just click on this link ;)

http://www.online-translator.com/url/tran_url.asp?lang=en&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cine4home.de%2Ftests%2Fprojektoren%2FMi tsuHC3000%2FFinal%2FHC3000Test.htm&direction=ge&template=General&cp1=NO&cp2=NO&autotranslate=on&transliterate=on&psubmit2.x=76&psubmit2.y=11

or copy this link: http://www.cine4home.de/index.htm

then paste on where it says Translate a Web page here: http://babelfish.altavista.com/

Only 2300:1.. Thats not good at all. :eek:

What do you mean not good, 2300:1 after calibration is excellent.

After more time spent with the 3000, I have been able to get a more precise calibration as I had the whites much to hot when I wrote my last statement. Dialing down the contrast made the picture have less overall punch than my over contrasted settings (which looked great on some DVD's with no white out problem, and the THX optomizer will even show all blocks at high settings).

In the end, I'd say it looks about the same as the pic on the 7700. It may be slightly better, but I'd have to see them side by side to know for sure. If your looking to dump your 7700 and get the 3000 for upgrade purposes, I do not think you will gain much.

They both throw a nice picture.

Jeff

Thanks for the links

Finally got the full translation...lots of laughs... here is hoping they will post an english version at cine4home.

Ekkert are you listening?

What do you mean not good, 2300:1 after calibration is excellent.

I dont think it's excellent at all.. I expected 3000:1 +, but that was maybe to optimistic..

Jeff,
I had the 3000 and 7700 side by side in my room. It's a noticeable improvement.

I think the hardest part is getting the darn thing calibrated right so that everything looks good.

Can anyone comment on the offset required of other <$3000 DLP projectors compared to the the HC3000?

I'm not aware of any published information on the upcoming Optoma and/or Infocus projectors in this price range, but, as others have noted, the 16" makes for a tough basement installation, particularly when my screen is already in place.

Larry

Jeff,
I had the 3000 and 7700 side by side in my room. It's a noticeable improvement.

I think the hardest part is getting the darn thing calibrated right so that everything looks good.

Hi Brian,

I agree with you. What you think about Hc3000 against the Optoma H79 or Metavision cht726?

Thank you very much. I will receive my Hc3000 tomorrow and I'm really excited...

Only 2300:1.. Thats not good at all. :eek:

Contrast numbers at D65 for other well known projectors at similar price range (from Cine4Home site):

Toshiba MT-700 (same as BenQ PE7700) --- 1400:1 to 1500:1
Panasonic PT-AE900 --- 1500:1
Sanyo PLV-Z4 --- 1600:1
Sharp XV-Z2000 --- 1800:1
Mitsubishi HC-2000 --- 2000:1

Mitsubishi HC-3000 --- 2300:1

Jeff,
I had the 3000 and 7700 side by side in my room. It's a noticeable improvement.

I think the hardest part is getting the darn thing calibrated right so that everything looks good.


Yes,

The 3000 seems harder to get calibrated. Probably because of all the gamma/Brilliant color options and such (a good thing). I still do not have it locked down 100% as far as adjustments. I'm still experimenting.

Jeff

I dont think it's excellent at all.. I expected 3000:1 +, but that was maybe to optimistic..

Yes, you were being too optimistic. Also, you have to realize that the higher contrast numbers do not follow a linear scale in visible difference. The difference to the eye between 2300:1 and 3000:1 is nowhere near as significant as the difference between, say, 500:1 to 1000:1. There is a point of diminishing returns after which higher numbers only result in a marginal improvement.

Yes, you were being too optimistic. Also, you have to realize that the higher contrast numbers do not follow a linear scale in visible difference. The difference to the eye between 2300:1 and 3000:1 is nowhere near as significant as the difference between, say, 500:1 to 1000:1. There is a point of diminishing returns after which higher numbers only result in a marginal improvement.


Ok then :) I wonder how high a H79 would measure?

Without the aid of an Iris that the Hc3000 has the H79-H78s seem to get 2300 to 2400:1 calibrated to d65 with aprox 450-550 lumens.

The Cine test does not indicate the lumen output at the tested value results? It also does not have Iris open or close results, those may prove interesting.

Hd2 machines equipped at the Mits's bulb wattage typicaly test at 1600 to 1900:1 without the aid of an iris... So I wonder how much the iris lends to the ultimate contrast and how much of an overall brightness hit occurs to hit this target.

I would also like to know what the black level at this contrast level is:

I love the idea of a manual Iris due to the fact that depending upon your personal preference you can tailor the output to your usage.

Hc3000 looks like a winner... and after the rebate it is a steal...


Anyone care to comment on the amount or visibilty of the "halo" around the pic when turning off the 48 lines in 720p mode? That is one of the reasons I bought a native 720p unit, but it may prove a non issue...



TJ

TJ,
if the image is positioned so that the extra 48 pixel rows fall onto the frame of the screen (and the frame is absorbtive), you can't see them.

TJ,
if the image is positioned so that the extra 48 pixel rows fall onto the frame of the screen (and the frame is absorbtive), you can't see them.

sorry Brian, could you explain better this story of the visible lines? I thought It was able to map 720p 1:1 without any problems....and visible lines....because they were disabled.....sorry but I'm confused by your post

thank you for your help

The bars are blacked out but would be visible on a light colored wall as a different shade.

what happened??? All the postings from today are gone!

Too much "deal" talk.. No postings on deals I bet?

TJ

Jes,

Read the rules no posting of deals and dealers allowed.

Jason Turk has the AVS review and screenshots of the HC3000 up on another sticky thread.

He can also e-mail a copy of his calibration setings to those who request it.

He likes it.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=613190

They didn't put the original box in another packaging box?!! Crazy shippers out there... :eek:

HC3000 pics side by side with the new Runco 410 pics both taken by Jason here at AVS seem to favor the HC3000 in my opinion....check it out...same DLP chip...5k though!!!!


TJ

I hooked one up last night... I haven't taken out my meters and done a full calibration, just some basic things out of the box.... I'll do that in the next couple days.

A LOT less rainbows with this unit than other 1 chippers... pretty bright with the iris open. Garishly awful greyscale and color balance out of the box... much
quieter than the HC900 Matterhorn unit, but still pretty loud compared to
the Optomas of the world... can't tell if it is the colorwheel or the fans
that is the offending item for noise level... on par for noise with the
Panny AE900....

Very interesting to compare the Panny AE900 side by side with the Mits 3000 in the same rooms on the same screens.... the offset on the Mits isn't as large an issue as I thought it would be. The Mits definitely has better contrast in mixed scenes. Black level is about identical on both units... With the iris open, eyeball looks say the Mits is brighter, but I'll measure to be sure...

Could someone please confirm that they see BTB (blacker than black) with this PJ and let me know what DVD player you have? I do not with mine.

BR

/Oscar

Could someone please confirm that they see BTB (blacker than black) with this PJ and let me know what DVD player you have? I do not with mine.

BR

/Oscar

yes, definitely see it... Bel Canto Player into Lumagen HDP via SDI... going to do denon 3910 and Oppo Digital players this evening, as well as a denon 1910 if customer brings his over to compare...

They didn't put the original box in another packaging box?!! Crazy shippers out there... :eek:

pretty much the norm from most distributors... the 3000U projector is pretty well protected in its foam... shouldn't be an issue other than the fact that it will get dirty and have extra shipping labels on it to be peeled off if the dealer is then shipping units out to customers.... The Panny AE900 had double factory boxing....

yes, definitely see it... Bel Canto Player into Lumagen HDP via SDI... going to do denon 3910 and Oppo Digital players this evening, as well as a denon 1910 if customer brings his over to compare...

Thanks!
Please let me know how it goes with the Oppo and the Denon.
/Oscar

I was discussing this projector with a friend, and mentioned that the RGBRGB wheel was considered a half-way implementation of BrilliantColor. He asked what the point would be of an RGBYMC wheel? The secondary colors (yellow, magenta, & cyan) can all be created through combinations of red, green, & blue. But the primaries red, green, & blue cannot be easily recreated from the secondaries. So, therefore, wouldn't an RGBYMC wheel just sacrifice the vibrancy and accuracy of the primaries for a potentially negligible gain to the secondaries?

Is it possible that an RGBRGB wheel is actually a better implementation than RGBYMC?

Does anyone know of a detailed write-up of exactly how BrilliantColor works? Is there more to it than just a gamma boost to individual hues?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=591782&highlight=BrilliantColor

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=580082&highlight=BrilliantColor

A lot of these issued were recently discussed, willing to do it some more though these threads may answer your questions.

Has anyone tried 1080p on this HC3000 i see a mode displayed sxga60+ computer input satellite 576i, real. when upscaling through my iscan hd the vertical line patten tightens up, fine tune with fine control. iscan reports 1920 x 1080p 50hz. No mention in manual i can find?????

my first post i think..............therefore i am?

Fry's Electronics in Duluth, Georgia (Pleasantville Exit off I-85 north of Atlanta) has the HC3000 available for demo. Hope to see it next week.

HC3000 pics side by side with the new Runco 410 pics both taken by Jason here at AVS seem to favor the HC3000 in my opinion....check it out...same DLP chip...5k though!!!!


TJ

I agree. That pic of Will Smith in the car with hand on the neck, clearly HC3000 is much much better. It is or a calibration issue or a camera issue with cl420.

I just got my HC3000. However, after reading the manual I got a little nervous. I saw that when you pick the 720P resolution (1280x720) the pj can only produce 60 and 50Hz.....

I use a HTPC with TT2 and powerstrip for specific resolutions. How can my system ever sync with the mits. if the mits. only supports 50 and 60Hz?!?!?!

On my previous pj a had a native res. of 800x600 and had 2 shortcuts on my desktop: one for 800x600 @75Hz (for PAL movies) and one for 800x600 @72Hz (for NTSC movies). This way reclock could always sync with my pj and 'green light' (this is some kind of sign on Reclock so you know that the frames are synced).

Now what..... How can I ever sync my movies with reclock with these refresh rates????

Does anyone know if there is a service menu and how to activate it, or can the unit be calibrated by the user controls only??? I bought the Smart 3 color calibration light meter & software and wanted to try it out on the HC-3000.

Thanks!

Has anyone tried 1080p on this HC3000 i see a mode displayed sxga60+ computer input satellite 576i, real. when upscaling through my iscan hd the vertical line patten tightens up, fine tune with fine control. iscan reports 1920 x 1080p 50hz. No mention in manual i can find?????

The HC3000 is a native 720p projector. Any other resolution you input into it will just be scaled to 720p. There's really no sense in sending it an upscaled 1080p signal. Scaling twice just introduces the risk of mathematical errors and data loss. Set your iScan for 720p.

I just got my HC3000. However, after reading the manual I got a little nervous. I saw that when you pick the 720P resolution (1280x720) the pj can only produce 60 and 50Hz.....

I use a HTPC with TT2 and powerstrip for specific resolutions. How can my system ever sync with the mits. if the mits. only supports 50 and 60Hz?!?!?!

On my previous pj a had a native res. of 800x600 and had 2 shortcuts on my desktop: one for 800x600 @75Hz (for PAL movies) and one for 800x600 @72Hz (for NTSC movies). This way reclock could always sync with my pj and 'green light' (this is some kind of sign on Reclock so you know that the frames are synced).

Now what..... How can I ever sync my movies with reclock with these refresh rates????

Can this projector run at any other rate than 60hz? I'm pretty sure it doesn't, and that any other rate you send to it would just be converted back to 60hz. It's very rare that DLP projectors offer multiple frame rates.

Can this projector run at any other rate than 60hz? I'm pretty sure it doesn't, and that any other rate you send to it would just be converted back to 60hz. It's very rare that DLP projectors offer multiple frame rates.

my manual says it can run at both 50 and 60Hz. Why do they not put multiple frame rates in DLP's?!?!? In my opinion they know that (especially a 1280x720 pj!!!) pj's will be used to watch 24 and 25 fps movies. Don't they understand that we need 48 or 72Hz in order to sync NTSC dvd's????

How am I ever going to watch R1 movies synced on my new HC-3000 :( :( :(

Kosty said:

Jason Turk has the AVS review and screenshots of the HC3000 up on another sticky thread.

He can also e-mail a copy of his calibration setings to those who request it.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

What's his e-mail address?

sanderdvd:

Were you able to get Reclock sync with any other projector at 48 or 72 Hz? What were your shortcuts for? A computer monitor?

Red color push at custom RGB settings?

I calibrated my HC3000 using the color temperature RGB settings suggested on cine4home. However, when I display the grey ramps on DVE I notice that very light grey has a "pinkish" flavor to it. It seems to me the cine4home settings replace the out-of-the-box green push with a slight red push.

Has anyone experienced the same thing? Could it be caused by my screen? (I'm using a Carada grey screen. My walls are white.)

Ales

Has anyone got 1:1 pixel mapping on a computer at 1280x720 and 1280x768? how about a Xbox360, anyone connected one?

muncey

How am I ever going to watch R1 movies synced on my new HC-3000 :( :( :(

With a R1 DVD player? HC3000 un-does the 3:2 pulldown, but I have no idea on what refresh rate it will actually display the image. Has anyone noticed problems with CINEMA MODE motion? None of the reviewers has said anything about this.

PAL disks are playing 4% faster at 50Hz (2x25), is there any (HTPC) DVD player that could do this for NTSC sources: 3:2 pulldown, 4% speedup and display at 50Hz?

Any idea how they are transfering films to 720p (60Hz) or 1080i (60Hz) frame rate -wise?

Maybe you should just un-pack it and see if you have motion problems or not?

Jarno

how about a Xbox360, anyone connected one?

muncey

I have my 360 hooked up to my HC3000. Not very techincally inclined but will do my best to give feedback. What do you want to know ?

Is it working ok, some people with other projectors are having sync problems and can't get HD resolutions to work.

muncey

my manual says it can run at both 50 and 60Hz. Why do they not put multiple frame rates in DLP's?!?!? In my opinion they know that (especially a 1280x720 pj!!!) pj's will be used to watch 24 and 25 fps movies. Don't they understand that we need 48 or 72Hz in order to sync NTSC dvd's????

How am I ever going to watch R1 movies synced on my new HC-3000 :( :( :(

NTSC video runs at 60hz. PAL video runs at 50hz. These standards have been in place since video itself was invented.

PAL disks are playing 4% faster at 50Hz (2x25), is there any (HTPC) DVD player that could do this for NTSC sources: 3:2 pulldown, 4% speedup and display at 50Hz?

The 4% speedup is an inherent part of the process when transferring 24fps film to 25fps PAL video. NTSC does not have a speedup due to 3:2 pulldown (as you know). After the video transfer is complete, existing conversion algorithms do not add any further speedup or slowdown when converting 60hz NTSC to 50hz PAL or vice versa. Even at the new frame rate, they continue to run at the original NTSC or PAL speeds depending on how they were transferred.

WinDVD offers a function called "PAL TrueSpeed" that will slow down PAL discs, but this is more involved than just the frame rate conversion (and in my experience has been very juddery).

This may be a stupid question, but suppose the HC3000 did support 72 Hz input frequency. What would this accomplish? 24*3=72, so each film frame could be displayed for three cycles, generating smooth panning in principle. However, what device would you use for this? The content on NTSC DVDs contains the 2:3 pulldown flag, so one would need an MPEG2 decoder that would completely ignore the pulldown flag and display the frames in a 3-3-3-3 fashion. I am not aware of any software solution that can achieve this.

Ales

This may be a stupid question, but suppose the HC3000 did support 72 Hz input frequency. What would this accomplish? 24*3=72, so each film frame could be displayed for three cycles, generating smooth panning in principle. However, what device would you use for this? The content on NTSC DVDs contains the 2:3 pulldown flag, so one would need an MPEG2 decoder that would completely ignore the pulldown flag and display the frames in a 3-3-3-3 fashion. I am not aware of any software solution that can achieve this.

You can use a video scaler or HTPC to change the frame rate to 48hz or 72hz. This is popular with CRT projection owners, but as I mentioned previously the ability to display these rates is not usually present in fixed-pixel digital projectors.

Thanks, Josh. Video scalers make sense to me (I really have no experience with them). Regarding HTPC: do you actually know what application will give you 72 Hz? I tried PowerDVD, Media Player Classic, and TheaterTek, and none of these can do 72 Hz (it's possible I missed the feature).

I want to make sure that we are not talking about merely changing the refresh rate of the video card to 72 Hz, since this is not sufficient. One has to force the MPEG2 decoder to completely bypass the pulldown.

Ales

Do you guys know how to take advantage of 10-bit color processing by the projector when connected with Panasonic S97 hdmi dvd player. What are the settings for the dvd player and the projector to get more than just 256 shades of gray?

Also, how do I minimize motion artifacts. I still see some although it's not as bad as I have seen in other projectors.

The DVI spec states that DVI is only 8-bits, so that's all you're going to get out of the a DVI output. That's also only what's encoded on the DVD to start with, IMHO.

The HDMI spec includes 8-bit, 10-bit and 12-bit capability, DVI is only 8-bits.

As for motion artifacts, calibrate your HC3000, paying special attention to black level and sharpness. Also check the behavior of noise and "smoothing" options. Someone with HC3000 experience needs to chime in here. Also, check the threads on the S97.

Is it working ok, some people with other projectors are having sync problems and can't get HD resolutions to work.

muncey

Mine works fine as far as I can tell. I took a few shots of some 720p trailers I downloaded but I suck at taking pics. so bear with me. The one of the car is from PGR3
http://www.regionofdoomforum.com/Upload/userfiles/rtuimauga/6.jpg

http://www.regionofdoomforum.com/Upload/userfiles/rtuimauga/1.jpg

http://www.regionofdoomforum.com/Upload/userfiles/rtuimauga/5.jpg

http://www.regionofdoomforum.com/Upload/userfiles/rtuimauga/3.jpg

http://www.regionofdoomforum.com/Upload/userfiles/rtuimauga/4.jpg

Sorry. I do not know how to resize them

looks good

muncey

Do you guys know how to take advantage of 10-bit color processing by the projector when connected with Panasonic S97 hdmi dvd player. What are the settings for the dvd player and the projector to get more than just 256 shades of gray?

AFAIK the benefit of 10-bit color processing is in the "processing" of the video signal. Input at 8 bits is fine, but you'd better leave all processing of that signal to the HC3000 as it has those 10 bits to play with. When you adjust any of the contrast, brightness, gamma, etc, the resulting luminance values of the computations likely fall on the additional values between the original 8-bit scale, and there will be less quantization errors than with 8 bits.

So it might be advisable to turn off all possible video signal tuning from the S97 so that the original 8 bit signal would be sent over to the HC3000.

Jarno

Sorry. I do not know how to resize them

http://www.resize2mail.com/

Bud

So it might be advisable to turn off all possible video signal tuning from the S97 so that the original 8 bit signal would be sent over to the HC3000.

Thanks Claus and Jarno for your explanations.
I don't see a way to send 480i signals through S97 hdmi out. I can only send 480p. I only hope S97 can do 10bit processing. I am letting HC3000 to do the scaling.
I am not sure whether I need to specify hdmi color space in the S97 as YCbCr 4:4:4/4:2:2 instead of RGB to get the 10bit processing.

Thanks, Josh. Video scalers make sense to me (I really have no experience with them). Regarding HTPC: do you actually know what application will give you 72 Hz? I tried PowerDVD, Media Player Classic, and TheaterTek, and none of these can do 72 Hz (it's possible I missed the feature).

Sorry, I'm a scaler guy, not an HTPC guy, and my current projector is locked at 60hz so I haven't done much playing around with refresh rates.

After a couple of months researching showrooms in the Atlanta area that could demonstrate the Hitachi HDPJ52, I finally found one a couple miles from my home. When I went there they had a HC3000 as well as the Hitachi HDPJ52. Three of us spent a lot of time playing with both projectors, adjusting them as best we could to get the best image out of each projector. Each projector was new, right out of the box, and neither was calibrated. Out of the box, the HC3000 was clearly much preferred. It was brighter, the colors were more saturated, and the image overall was sharp and pleasing. I noticed no RBE, but I never do. The Hitachi out of the box was not in the same league - not a "grab ya" image at all in comparison. However, after adjusting - setting iris control on auto1 and setting contrast and brightness and mode to what we liked best, we were able to get a pleasing punchy image, but still as good as the HC3000. I'm sure with a calibration, it would be even better, as could both projectors I'm sure. However, as they were very close in price, I walked out with the HC3000. In my mind it wasn't even close.
Funny how things work out. I was going to that store to buy the Hitachi after reading all the online reports and walked out with a different projector. It convinced me that nothing can substitute for seeing them yourself.

Thanks Claus and Jarno for your explanations.
I don't see a way to send 480i signals through S97 hdmi out. I can only send 480p. I only hope S97 can do 10bit processing. I am letting HC3000 to do the scaling.
I am not sure whether I need to specify hdmi color space in the S97 as YCbCr 4:4:4/4:2:2 instead of RGB to get the 10bit processing.

For film source material i->p conversion should not do any processing on the pixel values, so the additional bit depth is not an issue.

HC3000 does video processing with 10 bit precision for all inputs. DVDs are coded in component color space, and the projectors display in RGB. Either way there is going to be one color space conversion, but maybe even that would be better done at the projector?

Jarno

Has anyone received Jason Turks calibration settings ? I have emailed him for it and have yet to hear from him. Hopefully someone else has had better luck ?

Alright... Mission complete!!! My living room is officially transformed into a home theater :D . It snowed here today and my neighbor was helping me shovel. I offered him a beer, but he declined. Then I asked if he would like to be the first (besides my wife) to see the completed product. He was speechless, but he managed to get out “holy @#$^”.

I’m having a party at my home on Sunday. Both sides of my family will be here. The occasion is a son’s birthday/son’s christening/welcome (me) home party. I can’t wait to see the reactions as I know that none of them probably even know anyone who has ever done this. I’m pretty excited, because I didn’t think I would be done in time.

I posted some pictures of the progress from beginning to end. I also took some pictures of the PJ in action with ambient light and without. The pictures I have are viewing HDTV using a 30’ HDMI cable. Also, I have not made ANY adjustments as far as calibration is concerned. This is an “out of the box” picture. My photography may not be optimal. I had to play with the shutter. But, whenever I show (with ambient light versus without), I used the same setting. Of course, the camera doesn’t do it justice, but here they are anyway.

Viewing the pictures as a slide show is probably the best option. There are 31 pictures, and I labeled every one of them. The captions will be on the bottom of the pictures. I posted the link below. I hope it works as I haven’t used Yahoo Photos before and I haven’t posted a link here yet either.

Later, I will add pictures of VGA (PC), Component (DVD), and S-video (Tivo). I will also post comparison shots as I try various settings and calibrations.

So far I am more than happy with my purchase.


http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/looooongtrader/album?.dir=ab76&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/looooongtrader/my_photos

Am Iright if I say that it is only possible to get 50 or 60Hz at 1280x720 if you use the HDMI input?

And can someone tell me what 3:2 pulldown exactly is?

Has anyone received Jason Turks calibration settings ? I have emailed him for it and have yet to hear from him. Hopefully someone else has had better luck ?
I have asked for it twice, but have not yet received it.

I received Jason's calibration numbers.
Here's is what he came up with:

HDMI:

AV MEMORY 1

Gamma Mode: Cinema

Contrast: 6

Brightness: 3

Color Temp: User

R Contrast: 7

G Contrast: 0

B Contrast: -6

R Bright: -5

G Bright: 0

B Bright: 0

Color: N/A

Tint: N/A

Sharpness: -1

Brilliant Color: On

Lamp Mode: Low



COMPONENT:

AV MEMORY 1

Gamma Mode: Cinema

Contrast: 7

Brightness: 3

Color Temp: User

R Contrast: 6

G Contrast: 0

B Contrast: -7

R Bright: 0

G Bright: 0

B Bright: -1

Color: 1

Tint: N/A

Sharpness: 2

Brilliant Color: On

Lamp Mode: Low

According to Mitsubishi the lamp life counter is in the service menu. They haven't told us how to get to it yet.I don't know if this has been answered yet, but on my HC3000 the lamp timer can be accessed by holding down up-arrow, down-arrow, and enter on the projector. Doesn't work from the remote control, but it does work from the body of the projector. There's other info there, too. For example, my new HC3000 has S/W version 2.0. I'd be interested in knowing what versions you other owners have.

Thanks for posting that Brian.

rcrymes: What paint mix did you use ? Looks good BTW

Can a screen introduce "vertical luminance streaks?" I switched to a different screen yesterday, and can now see relatively thin dark vertical bands in one part of the image. They are not as noticeable when the picture is still, but quite visible during horizontal pans. It looks as if someone placed a "mask" on top of the projected image; during a pan the image scrolls under this mask.

Ales

rcrymes,

VERY NICE!! When the funds allow I will be doing a projector and screen in my living room also. Nice to see how good it can look. Seeing your pictures makes me want to do it right now!!

Andy

In Europe I can get the Toshiba MT700 for a litle more than 1.500€ wich is a lot less then the cost of the Mitsubishi HC3000. For those who have seen the Benq 7700 (same as Toshiba MT700) can you tell what differences do you see in picture quality?

I have an Infocus X1 with an ND2 filter and a Goo screen and the image is very nice but I miss the resolution and quality in dark scenes.

I have seen a demo of the Panasonic AE900 and was not impressed also the SIM2 Domino 20 and the image with this projector was great (very film like) natural. I also saw an Optoma H57 and the black was nice but looked to "digital" to me. I think this projectors try to imitate the TV plasma look with very strong colors but I prefer the image as natural as possible (similar to cinema).

[QUOTE=Citation4444]After a couple of months researching showrooms in the Atlanta area that could demonstrate the Hitachi HDPJ52, I finally found one a couple miles from my home. When I went there they had a HC3000 as well
QUOTE]

Could you let me know the name of the Atlanta dealer, if allowed?

Going down to audition the Epson 550 next week.

Arthur, check your PM's. :)

Thanks for posting that Brian.

rcrymes: What paint mix did you use ? Looks good BTW


Just Behr Silverscreen from Home Depot. The border is floor molding painted black. Paint, rollers, and the moulding cost less than $40 for a 110" screen.

Thanks for the feedback.

And can someone tell me what 3:2 pulldown exactly is?

See http://www.divx.com/support/guides/guide.php?gid=10

Any HC3000 owners using the Auto On option successfully? I have my projector connected via HDMI through a Gefen switcher, but I cannot seem to get it to come on automatically via signal trigger using this option.

Does anyone know how much of an offset I can get away with? I may have trouble getting the screen lower then 10 inches below the projector.

Am Iright if I say that it is only possible to get 50 or 60Hz at 1280x720 if you use the HDMI input?


no idea anyone?

Has anyone received Jason Turks calibration settings ? I have emailed him for it and have yet to hear from him. Hopefully someone else has had better luck ?

I believe Jason mentioned something about travelling for business at the end of last week. I think he's back this week.

Does anyone know how much of an offset I can get away with? I may have trouble getting the screen lower then 10 inches below the projector.

Check these docs out:

http://www.mitsubishi-hometheater.com/pdf/MIT_DATAHC3000U_R3.pdf
http://bobby.filipi.info/public/HC3000_manual.pdf

Bud

Has anyone calibrated the projector with a white screen (uncoated white PVC material)? I tried BillyTT's calibration numbers with a firehawk screen (post# 795), Jason's calibration numbers with a silverstar screen (post# 953), as well as Ekkehart's calibration numbers (from cine4home review). Still not quite happy (I know, proper calibration depends on screen type/gain/size, dvd player, ambient light in the room etc.).

Does anyone know how much of an offset I can get away with? I may have trouble getting the screen lower then 10 inches below the projector.

I too am interested in the negative impact if any on tilting the HC3000 to reduce the offset from the ceiling. Calculations show I need the screen 19" below the center of the lens but I only want 10" below the center (higher placement of screen). Will the required keystone to square the image be bothersome?

HC3000 users only need to reply.

K

Am Iright if I say that it is only possible to get 50 or 60Hz at 1280x720 if you use the HDMI input?

I believe so. please check page# 39 in the HC3000 manual.

I'm getting a HC3000 for an in-home test tomorrow night. The intent is to see how awesome it is :D, as well as to make sure no-one in the family has issues with the DLP technology. I can test it with DVD (both 480i and 576i, old player), WMV clips (720p, 1080i), Digital TV (576i), and computer (1280x768).

- Is there some Windows software I should be aware of for PQ testing purposes?
+ EDIT: Downloaded Nokia Monitor Test 1.0.0.1 (various test patterns on whatever resolution the PC is at)

- What kind of material I should select to make sure rainbows are a non-issue? Specific DVD titles?
+ EDIT: Should I try some Black&White title?

- Is there a download for Win XP MCE DVD player/decoder? I have built the PC with an OEM Win XP MCE 2005, but there is no "video decoder"?
+ EDIT: Took the 30 day free trial of Nvidia DVD decoder

My screen is flat white wall at the moment, and I plan to paint it gray & frame after I have installed a projector (will be a ceiling mount, 9' ceiling).

Thanks,

Jarno

If some one could please help. I read every thread but still am having
trouble. My room is 9' X 18' with a wall that is 108" X 79" high. I was
going to get a 61" 720P samsung and then I saw this and thought it
would be great. The problem is the ceiling is only 79" max. I've never
used a projector and guess the ceiling mount would make it even lower.
Could I use this without tilting etc.. and still have a picture at least 61".
Thank you for any help.

My screen is flat white wall at the moment, and I plan to paint it gray & frame after I have installed a projector (will be a ceiling mount, 9' ceiling).

Thanks,

Jarno

Jarno,

Check my pics a couple of pages back. Where I mounted it, the ceiling is 9.5' high. My entertainment center is 21" high x 70" wide. I used a 6" extention and an angled ceiling mount that adds 4 additional inches versus a flat ceiling mount. The PJ is 13.5' back projecting a 110" picture.

I too, painted the wall with silverscreen paint. Then I painted the wall color within a half inch of where the image was shown. It didn't have to be perfect, because the moulding covered where the colors met. It was not hard at all.

I hate to be a pain in the butt, but all the question about offset can be answered by looking at page 12 of the HC3000U product manual:

http://bobby.filipi.info/public/HC3000_manual.pdf

The column labeled Hd in the first table on page 12 gives you the offset values for several screen sizes.

Ales

I had the party on Sunday and the PJ was a huge hit. I had 35 to 40 people in the house. We had a blast. We watched the Eagles lose again, but that's ok.

I had at least 5 people tell me, "I want that". I think at least two of them will actually get a PJ before New Years. I may consider a side job in home theater construction. My neighbor has already asked me to help him construct his.

I took pictures of my son destroying his birthday cake. Then I put them up on the screen and got a lot of laughs. I'm happy with this PJ.

I believe that when people keep asking about that offset thing, what they really want to know is this: Has anyone installed the PJ in a HT with low ceilings, where the large offset - that can easily be predicted by reading the manual - was a problem ? If so, how did you get around the problem and what was the effect of your solution on picture quality?


I, for one, would certainly like to know what owners with low ceilings did, and most of all if they are satisfied with the resulting screen position and/or picture quality.

Sorry. Think I have it. If it's mounted on the ceiling at 79" and 145" back,
a 100" picture would start 16.5" down from the ceiling and end 13.5" from
the floor. Is this from the center of the lens. How much would you have to
add for a mount. Is one mount better than another. Thanks.

OK guys, I just did some measurements in my room. My ceiling towards the back of the room is just over 8ft high. The room is only 100" wide, and the length is about 17ft long. I don't care where I sit, I can sit as far back as 17ft.

The unique thing about this room however, is that it's a 1 car garage being turned into an HT room, and the ceiling slants downwards a little from entrance to end. At the end side(where I intend on placing the screen), it is only about 7ft high.

So my question is will the HC3000 be OK in my room if I ceiling mount it? I can sit pretty low to the ground so that's not a problem. Please let me know. :)

Stef 2 is right, all the owners there has to be one with a lower ceiling.

no idea anyone?

people! NO IDEA????

people! NO IDEA????

I'm sorry, we are too bogged down with offset questions again. :rolleyes:

I'm not sure anyone has tested this yet (1280 x 768 above 60Hz with the HDMI port). In fact, the thread died without even answering whether or not we could get 1:1 pixel mapping.

I find it interesting that everyone thought they would never use geometry or trigonometry again while in studying it in high school. I can hear those voices now, "I'll never use this in my daily life. What good is learning this junk?" Now look! People can't figure out if their projector will work in their room. :eek: We've come full circle.

Michael

I"m close to pulling the trigger on this, a few questions first.

Has anyone got 1280x768 via hdmi from a computer, how about 1280x720.

Anyone had any reliability problems.

Hows the build quality.

Anyone have a oppo 971 connected to the hdmi, how does it look.

thanks in advance

muncey

What I want to know is:

Is it correct that the HC-3000 can only display 1280x720 @60 AND/OR!!!! @50Hz if you use the HDMI input?

HC3000 can display 720P@50Hz.

yes I know that, but am I correct that this can only be done with the HDMI input?

720p should work also for component and computer/component2 inputs? I'll try to s test this tonight (analog D-SUB VGA cable from computer).

Jarno

can someone explain how I should read the diagram in one of the last pages of the manual? You can see there also *2 at 1280x720 and according to the manual that means (you can read it under the diagram) that you HAVE to use the HDMI input of the HC-3000. Am I also correct that this diagram tells me that only 50 or 60Hz is possible at 1280x720?

ps. Sorry for my bad English!

You can find the input signal when you press the menu. It should display 720P50 at the right hand side last section when you input 720P PAL. Yes, it works at HDMI input.

I KNOW what the offset should be for my screen size (20") BUT I want to project it 10" from the ceiling.

The question remains unanswered:

How does less than optimum offset affect picture quality due to keystone correction?

Do a simple test:

1)Tilt the projector upwards so the image is projected within inches of the ceiling.
2) Perform keystone adjust to square the picture.
3) Access the quality of the image versus the original factory offset WITHOUT keystone correction.
4) report result HERE

At 16'6" back from the screen the HC3000 BARELY has enough light to meet my criteria. I am also concerned about the fixed offset since I plan to tilt the projector and perform keystone.

k

the ceiling slants downwards a little from entrance to end. At the end side(where I intend on placing the screen), it is only about 7ft high.

So my question is will the HC3000 be OK in my room if I ceiling mount it? I can sit pretty low to the ground so that's not a problem. Please let me know. :)

The way you explain it, the HC3000 should be fine. If you were mounting the PJ on the 7' part, I would be concerned. From any normal distance the offset should clear it. When mounted, the center lense is about 4" from the ceiling. So, you would only need 8" of offset. This setup could probably look nice whith the slant, not to mention how sound will react.

- What kind of material I should select to make sure rainbows are a non-issue? Specific DVD titles?
+ EDIT: Should I try some Black&White title?

Anything really contrasty is what you need. Black & white is usually good, but make sure you pick something Film Noir-ish with dark blacks & hot spots of white. A softer movie like Miracle on 34th Street with its smoother gray scale probably won't be much of a test.

A recent color movie that gave me trouble with rainbows on my other projector was the low-budget WWII movie "Saints & Soldiers", which has a lot of scenes with soldiers in dark uniforms trudging across snowy landscapes. It's not a very good movie, unfortunately, so I wouldn't recommend a purchase (stick to a rental if you're curious).

The way you explain it, the HC3000 should be fine. If you were mounting the PJ on the 7' part, I would be concerned. From any normal distance the offset should clear it. When mounted, the center lense is about 4" from the ceiling. So, you would only need 8" of offset. This setup could probably look nice whith the slant, not to mention how sound will react.


Thanks for the reply rcrymes. So let's say I mount it from my 8'ft ceiling and project it onto a 110" screen. How far up from the ground will the screen be? That is what I need to know.

So has anyone compared this to the H78DC3? I know that is a more expensive projector, but I'm still interested in knowing how the BrilliantColor HD2 PJ compares to the non-BC HD3. thanks

So has anyone compared this to the H78DC3? I know that is a more expensive projector, but I'm still interested in knowing how the BrilliantColor HD2 PJ compares to the non-BC HD3. thanks


Me too. How about the fill ratio difference.

muncey

It is very comforting to see that after 994 posts that this thread hasn't taken a turn towards discussion of VB, RBE and/or the many other issues folks are seeing in other projectors. It seems the biggest issue is the mounting requirements of this unit, which does not affect me. Mine is sitting in a box right now as I am currently trying to finish (as fast as humanly possible) my dedicated room. Doesn't it seem incredibly difficult to concentrate on work when there are so many exciting things going on at home? I hope you are all enjoying your PJ's.

I am also amazed on how few real complaints there are about the HC3000. Especially if you compare that to the sticky threads on the other hot projectors out there.

HC3000 users seem to be happy campers.

So has anyone compared this to the H78DC3? I know that is a more expensive projector, but I'm still interested in knowing how the BrilliantColor HD2 PJ compares to the non-BC HD3. thanksI've seen both. I actually like the HC3000 picture better, but I have spent much more time with it. IMHO it certainly is not worth the extra money for the "Darkchip 3" label. Either the HC3000' new controller chip or the BC algorithm or other combination of optics trumps the DC3 or if the HC3000's DLP actually has some darkchip 3 manufacturing enhancements built in that aren't labeled as such, the effect is the blacks are black, contrast ratio is not an issue and the pixel fill factor is superb and is a total non issue. A projector is the sum of a lot of variables and the HC3000 has a pretty good combination.

just to underscore my happy camper point from above :rolleyes:

Another review from projector central
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Mitsubishi-HC3000.htm
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Personal Experience
I have spent the past three months reviewing and talking to others on the best projector for a dedicated home theater. It came down to the Sanyo Z4 or the new dlp Mitsubishi 3000. I chose the #000 model over the Sanyo due to the higher placement above the seating area. It did take a litle math and measuring but was well worth it. I was stunned by the the brilliant sharp pictrure. The flesh tones are terrific and watching the high def 16-9 format on local antenna with a tuner was like watching a movie quality picture. using my flight simulator was great with the computer freindly commections on tyhe back. I paid more than I wanted. $3000.00 but the $300 fACTORY REBATE Came put just as I ordered it.

I highly recommend this unit to anyone wanting a little more out of their projector.

Problems
None!

Thanks for the reply rcrymes. So let's say I mount it from my 8'ft ceiling and project it onto a 110" screen. How far up from the ground will the screen be? That is what I need to know.

PJ Mounted at 96" height at about 13.5-14' back
4" to center lens from ceiling
+ about a 16" offset
+ 54" height of the screen
= the bottom of the screen will be 74" down from where it is mounted (not 74" down from the ceiling where it is 7')

So, 8' (96') - 74" is 22"
The screen will be about 22" from the ground.

Now you said the ceiling slants from 8' to 7'. You need to find out how high the ceiling is 13.5' from projected wall and subtract 74". (i.e. if the ceiling is 7 1/2' high at that distance you would subtract 74" from 90" {16"} The screen would be 16" from the floor)

Hope this helps
-Rob

I"m close to pulling the trigger on this, a few questions first.

Has anyone got 1280x768 via hdmi from a computer, how about 1280x720.

Anyone had any reliability problems.

Hows the build quality.

Anyone have a oppo 971 connected to the hdmi, how does it look.

thanks in advance

muncey

1280x 768, 1280 x 720 via hdmi - I'd like to hear an answer to this myself.

Build-quality- there have been some reports of stuck mirrors on some units earlier in this thread.