Yes, it is already stained and the stain is a stain/poly blend (long story). I am more worried about the steam delaminating the veneer, so I have decided to let it go. It really isn't that noticeable and will be virtually impossible to see when the counter top is on.

I am hoping to start laminating the zinc to the MDF for the counter tops today, but the weather does not appear to be cooperating today. I plan on taking lots of pictures of that process, so expect some sort of update this weekend.

The weather was a bit better today so I got some work done on the counter tops. Not as much as I would have liked, but a good start.

I started with the MDF subsurface. I used two 3/4" pieces to get the 1 1/2" buildup to match standard counter thickness. Nice stuff, but heavy! If I ever do this again, I will go with a different type of particle board to save weight and my back.

http://members.cox.net/foutty/images/house/images/mdf.jpg

Here is the sheet zinc. I got two rolls plus some special flux and zinc solder.

http://members.cox.net/foutty/images/house/images/zinc.jpg

I was originally going to use a break to bend the metal, but decided I could never get the bends to exactly match with the somewhat less than perfect measurements of my counter tops. Instead I decided to do it like I have seen Norm do his own laminate counters. I would cut a piece with dimensions slightly larger than the piece needed. Cement it to the board and then used a router with a carbide laminate trimmer bit to make the piece match side it was glued to.

Here is a piece cut for one of the long edges.

http://members.cox.net/foutty/images/house/images/cutedge.jpg

Next, I glued it on using contact cement.

http://members.cox.net/foutty/images/house/images/gluededge.jpg

Lastly, I would run the router around the edges. I then did the same steps over for the other long end, one of the short ends and the top.

Here is what it looked like after all the sides were attached before buffing.

http://members.cox.net/foutty/images/house/images/shinytop.jpg

Finally, here is what it looks like with the excess glue cleaned up and a quick buffing to dull the surface.

http://members.cox.net/foutty/images/house/images/dulltop.jpg

All in all, I am pretty impressed with how it is coming out. I still have to solder the joints and do a better job buffing the surface, but I ran out of time tonight. i get more pictures when I am done.

Nice work. I hope you didn't scratch that Pony... :)

Nice looking countertop. Awesome looking pony. (I've got a '65 pony myself).

When I went out this morning to go to work, I got a good look at the counter top in the daylight and I am really pleased at how it came out so far. Once I get the seams soldered and finish buffing it, it will really make it looked finished.

I have to admit, I was worried about the counters. I have never tried anything like this and there isn't much info out there so I was making up a lot of it as I went along.

As for the Mustang, that is my other never-ending project. Mechanically, it is getting close to being done (although the transmission has started leaking over the winter...sigh). Now I just have to finish the body work, paint it and replace most of the trim.

There is never enough time or money especially with my new project: a Nursery...

Anyone have a good suggestion for a ceiling fan for the bar? I think I'm going to replace mine and thinking something maybe rustic? Or a little different?

Edit: Sorry, I just went back and I was confusing your bar with someone else's... Not sure about what kind of fan to use in this case... I really like your bar but am having trouble putting my finger on what style would go with it.


Isn't your bar more on the modern side? (blacks and reds, marble, etc.)

This (http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100036046&N=+502796+4294966885+90401) is a bit pricey but might look cool. If not that exactly, something in that style.

B.T.W. - I am doing final assembly on the bar this evening and should have pics up either tonight or tomorrow.

Post #1
I'm really enjoying lurking and was ready to post, but it's going to make me post 5 times before I can link to photos. Sorry to be a pest, but this is post #1.

Post #2
I'm really enjoying lurking and was ready to post, but it's going to make me post 5 times before I can link to photos. Sorry to be a pest, but this is post #2.

Post #3
I'm really enjoying lurking and was ready to post, but it's going to make me post 5 times before I can link to photos. Sorry to be a pest, but this is post #3.

Post #4
I'm really enjoying lurking and was ready to post, but it's going to make me post 5 times before I can link to photos. Sorry to be a pest, but this is post #4.

Post #5
I'm really enjoying lurking and was ready to post, but it's going to make me post 5 times before I can link to photos. Sorry to be a pest, but this is post #5.

MrsRed... there is a test area you can get your 5 posts ...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=46

I've really enjoyed looking at everyone's photos of their bars and you all have some great ideas! Maybe you have some pointers. This is the upstairs room in our new house.

This is the front of the bar and it's covered in beadboard/wainscotting (sp) and the opening behind the bar looks downstairs:

http://www.geocities.com/mrsredmosquito/GRBar0607.jpg


This photo is looking downstairs frm behind the bar:

http://www.geocities.com/mrsredmosquito/GRBarLookover0607.jpg

This photo - to the left is where you enter from downstairs (that's a closet next to the bar):

http://www.geocities.com/mrsredmosquito/GRBarLeft0607.jpg

This is the wall where you come up the stairs, then a half bath straight ahead and closets on the left:

http://www.geocities.com/mrsredmosquito/GRWallDoors0607.jpg

This photo is standing at the bar looking at the rest of the room. A pool table is going on the far end of the room and a seating area w/ tv will be in the area right in front of the bar:

http://www.geocities.com/mrsredmosquito/GRPoolArea0607.jpg

These are two photos that were taken before the beadboard was put on and before the cabinets were installed underneath... gives you a better idea of the area(s) that need covered/countertopped:

http://www.geocities.com/mrsredmosquito/GRBar0407a.jpg

http://www.geocities.com/mrsredmosquito/GRBar0407b.jpg


The bar is huge and we're out of money (of course)... Any ideas of what to put on the countertop and bar top? Also should we paint the bar or stain it? The walls are a really dark brown (Deer Trail), the carpet in the room will be a straw color. Planning on tiling the floor on both sides of the bar. And this IS the "man room" - not my room!

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Lisa Thomas
mrsredmosquito@yahoo.com

If you look back at my bar photos you will see I used granite tiles from Home Depot. Very reasonably priced. I was planning to intall myself, but my wife called our tile guy and had it done while I was working out of town. My small bar was not that expensive. But if you are willing to put in the effort, the granite tiles are very nice looking at a fraction of the cost of slabs. You do need to seal it well.

For the outside "wrap" you could go with bead board waynscoat and stain it yourself. Or do what I did and go real cheap with paneling sheets. It looks nice, easy to replace.

http://homepage.mac.com/chrisrivera/.Public/Bar/1.JPG
http://homepage.mac.com/chrisrivera/.Public/Bar/2.JPG
http://homepage.mac.com/chrisrivera/.Public/Bar/3.JPG

I finally got the bar assembled last weekend. There are still some odds and ends to take care of like pulls and finding some good barstools, but I am quite happy with the final product. I got the look I was going for and the zinc counter tops really make it stand out.

What do you think?

http://members.cox.net/foutty/images/house/images/barback.jpg


http://members.cox.net/foutty/images/house/images/barside.jpg


Next winter I'll add a back bar for bottle display and storage.

very nice! I like it a lot. Looks good in that space also.

cjrivera,

Huge bar and very nice! I'm sure you put it to good use!

Bud

I got the look I was going for and the zinc counter tops really make it stand out.

Pretty sweet! Where do you get such stuff? I'm still tossing the idea of something different for a back splash, did you buy the stuff local or online?

Bud

I couldn't find any local suppliers here, so I got it online from a company called RotoMetals, Inc. (http://www.rotometals.com/) Maybe you will get lucky and find someone local by you.

The price was not too bad and based on the thickness and amount you purchase they usually can ship it rolled via UPS (although the stuff is heavy, so the shipping charges can be a bit pricey). They come in sheets 39" x 96" at different thicknesses. I ended up using two sheets of .020" thick and still have enough left over for a back bar counter this winter.

The finish it is shipped with is a rolled finish and is somewhat shiny. I wanted a matte finish, so I had to play around a bit. I ended up using a green Scotchbrite pad in figure-eights first and then going to a medium grit sanding sponge in the same pattern. However, I found that once you scratch the shiny surface, you need to protect it again otherwise water or finger-prints will start tarnishing the metal white really quick. They recommended beeswax or butcher's wax. I tried just some Johnson's paste wax since I had it laying around and it seems to work. I also gave up soldering the edges. I was having too difficult a time getting it soldered evenly and found that if I took my time getting it cut, sanding out any marks and getting really good adhesion with the contact cement the seams are virtually invisible unless you are staring at them 6 inches away. Depending on how big your back-splash is, you could probably get buy without any seems anyway.

If anyone has any questions, I can take a little more time explaining how I did it in more detail.

Outstanding craftsmanship! I really like the look....You should be very proud.

A quick question - when designing a bar, what's sort of width should you shoot for behind the counter? 3' pretty standard?

A quick question - when designing a bar, what's sort of width should you shoot for behind the counter? 3' pretty standard?

Whatever you are comfortable with. Mine is 32 inches. When I'm mixing for a group, I don't walk myself to death. All I have to do is turn around. If you are going to have a couple of people behind the bar, well, plan accordingly.

Put some blue painter's tape down on the floor and maybe some boxes that replicate cabinets. Then see how comfy you are with that area. If it's too large or small now is the time to make the change! No regrets. I had my tape down for two weeks before I began. I had a pretty tight area to deal with. Bud, (Chinadog) and Nuener had a lot more room than me. Just my 2 cents. Good luck.

A quick question - when designing a bar, what's sort of width should you shoot for behind the counter? 3' pretty standard?
Mine's 30.5 inches between the bar and barback. I second the tape on the floor suggestion.

Put some blue painter's tape down on the floor and maybe some boxes that replicate cabinets. Then see how comfy you are with that area.


Yup, that is what I did. Really helps and highly recommended,

http://img304.imageshack.us/img304/7808/p31201108da.jpg

What do you recommend for your bar top?

Been looking at granite and corian... daaaaang $$$$$$$$

What do you recommend for your bar top?

Been looking at granite and corian... daaaaang $$$$$$$$

I like granite and corian, but personally, I think it makes a bar look more like a kitchen than a bar. I did a 2" sandwich of plywood with cabinet-grade maple veneer on top. It was stained with Miniwax Red Sedona 222 and finished with four good coats of an oil-based poly for floor use.

What do you recommend for your bar top?

Been looking at granite and corian... daaaaang $$$$$$$$

You'd be suprised what you can get granite TILE for...

http://caesare.homeip.net:32171/basement/slides/IMG_2011.jpg

You'd be suprised what you can get granite TILE for...


Is it easy to cut and work with? Is it isn't too miserable, that might be an option. I've been watching another thread where this was being used...

My wife wants to use slate, but I have concerns of tipping glasses...

How big is your bar top?

Sometimes local countertop places who deal with a large volume of customers, may have "remnants" of granite or corian for a lower price (because they are left-over/smaller pieces).

Also, have you looked at Zodiaq? We have it on our bar and love it.

How big is your bar top?

Sometimes local countertop places who deal with a large volume of customers, may have "remnants" of granite or corian for a lower price (because they are left-over/smaller pieces).

Also, have you looked at Zodiaq? We have it on our bar and love it.

Its not huge, I may look into that, there are a few places around that may be able to sell remnant. Thanks

Didn't see Zodiaq, will look into! thx.

If I recall correctly, "Zodiac" is the Dupont product that is superior to their "Corian" solid surface product in that you can put hot items (pots and pans) on its surface.

right, it's a "manmade granite" by Dupont.

It's a lot easier to care for than real granite and has a more consistent pattern/color throughout.

We were looking at granite at first and were very happy when we came across this product. I think it was also a little cheaper than real granite (but not by much)

Is it easy to cut and work with? Is it isn't too miserable, that might be an option. I've been watching another thread where this was being used...

My wife wants to use slate, but I have concerns of tipping glasses...

I have slate tiles for my undercounter, and I'd have the same concerns of tipping glasses if it were my bartop-- it looks great, but it's not an even surface.

With a wetsaw, granite tiles should be pretty easy to cut.

Is it easy to cut and work with? Is it isn't too miserable, that might be an option. I've been watching another thread where this was being used...

My wife wants to use slate, but I have concerns of tipping glasses...

Just used a tile saw with diamond blade. Sets just like regular tile.

right, it's a "manmade granite" by Dupont.

It's a lot easier to care for than real granite and has a more consistent pattern/color throughout.

We were looking at granite at first and were very happy when we came across this product. I think it was also a little cheaper than real granite (but not by much)

I think the term they use is "engineered stone". I have Silstone in the kitchen and love it. Silstone is just another brand of the engineered stone. Highly recommended. It is like 98% quartz (a natural stone) with 2% resine. No sealing required, more consistent color.

I put granite tiles in my bar and wish I didn't. I love the looks, but even tho I sealed it several times I already have a water ring in a couple of spots. Luckily, so far, only on the bartenders work area, but still. And I'm careful to use coasters, napkins, etc. I really don't know how people put granite in the kitchen with all the water around.

Guys,

Great Forum, full of interesting ideas and suggestions.

Just getting my own Bar to an almost usable stage, but struggling with the usual problem of what to put on top.:confused:

Have to admit my design has been influenced by Sdallnct and HeyNow^, thanks guys for the ideas...and Googles Sketchup is recommended as I used it the end for the design work after looking at several plans that I bought over the Internet.

It has been an interesting experience using the Asian timbers, had to let them dry for about three-four weeks before they were usable. The first 2x4 I cut into was what is called ironwood, an appropriate name for a timber you can't drive a nail into! So as a result, almost all of it, except the plywood panels were drilled and screwed.

So a few photo's so you can see the progress, it's a bit of a long term project over 3-4 months.

Yup, that is what I did. Really helps and highly recommended,



I did that too! My shape was similar to yours too. Cool.


I finished mine just in time for a ....dismal start to the season. :(

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/mbott1/bar3.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/mbott1/basement1.jpg

I did that too! My shape was similar to yours too. Cool.


I finished mine just in time for a ....dismal start to the season. :(

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/mbott1/bar3.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/mbott1/basement1.jpg

Sorry, man... but I'm just not feeling that bar of yours.
Doesn't look good at all.




















































(Now.... take away all that Eagles stuff and you got one heck of a bar!
:D
Go Cowboys!)

Guys,

Great Forum, full of interesting ideas and suggestions.

Just getting my own Bar to an almost usable stage, but struggling with the usual problem of what to put on top.:confused:

Have to admit my design has been influenced by Sdallnct and HeyNow^, thanks guys for the ideas...and Googles Sketchup is recommended as I used it the end for the design work after looking at several plans that I bought over the Internet.

It has been an interesting experience using the Asian timbers, had to let them dry for about three-four weeks before they were usable. The first 2x4 I cut into was what is called ironwood, an appropriate name for a timber you can't drive a nail into! So as a result, almost all of it, except the plywood panels were drilled and screwed.

So a few photo's so you can see the progress, it's a bit of a long term project over 3-4 months.

Cost wise, the 12" granite tiles are a good choice. I paid about $125 for material and was planning to install myself. But when I had to work out of town, my wife called our tile guy and he did it for about $200.

As mentioned however, I'm not happy that it all ready shows water spots even tho I sealed carefully.

Otherwise, I check out what engineered stone.

Cost wise, the 12" granite tiles are a good choice. I paid about $125 for material and was planning to install myself. But when I had to work out of town, my wife called our tile guy and he did it for about $200.

As mentioned however, I'm not happy that it all ready shows water spots even tho I sealed carefully.

Otherwise, I check out what engineered stone.

Its weird you have spots. Especially if its sealed. We have granite in the kitchen, bar and the master bar. No water spots. Granted its not solid black, but no matter.

Even though granite is "kitcheny", IMO, I think it can be done as a bar. I think my bar looks like a bar, just not that old wood bar feel. I could have achieved that at a lower cost (and a lot more labor), but it goes well with this house and the comparable houses in the area. It helps that I didn't do a backsplash or tile the back. It also helps that I have liquor and beer bottles all over the place!

Bud

There great looking bars in this thread. I wish I could get my underway. The wife has other plans...

Even though granite is "kitcheny", IMO, I think it can be done as a bar. I think my bar looks like a bar, just not that old wood bar feel. I could have achieved that at a lower cost (and a lot more labor), but it goes well with this house and the comparable houses in the area. It helps that I didn't do a backsplash or tile the back. It also helps that I have liquor and beer bottles all over the place!

Bud

Yeah-- I'm starting to see more hotel bars done in granite. And your bar looks phenominal, BTW.

Yeah-- I'm starting to see more hotel bars done in granite. And your bar looks phenominal, BTW.

Thanks man! For me, basement wise, it was the icing on the cake. My wife thought I was whacked when I told her thats what I wanted to do. I'm like "what would you prefer, formica?". :p No looking back now.

Bud

Cost wise, the 12" granite tiles are a good choice. I paid about $125 for material and was planning to install myself. But when I had to work out of town, my wife called our tile guy and he did it for about $200.

As mentioned however, I'm not happy that it all ready shows water spots even tho I sealed carefully.

Otherwise, I check out what engineered stone.

I agree. I had problems with the water marks as well with the test pieces I looked at. Also tried slate as well, looked great, nice and flat, but same problem. Chinese Granite available here in slabs of 2.2m x 0.6m, which is not so great if I need to move it in a couple of years, (breakage?, rented property, on a 3yr work contract, etc,etc) unfortunately granite tiles not so readily available....So thinking about pulling a log of teak off the beach (yes, the occasional one gets free and washes up on the shore, complete with label) getting it dried, cut, finished and putting that on top instead.

Here's a few more pics of my set-up. I hired it out so I can't comment inteligently on how to build it...
http://scripps-content.communicationsmgr.com/pcsupload/eff95752-8c93-478b-ae88-25c62b6843ed_player.jpg
http://scripps-content.communicationsmgr.com/pcsupload/9edfe279-16ba-4c36-9c62-20d96b13b629_player.jpg
http://scripps-content.communicationsmgr.com/pcsupload/82b853f5-d32d-4eae-b9c0-7f6c0ddef046_player.jpg

Ok, looking for ideas.

Want to put in a bar area in my rec room. Options are pretty open. Looking for layout help mainly for the island bar. Should I go with a L-Shaped island and run one side all the way over to the wall on the left in the pictures?

Unfortunately I don't have water/sewer down near there, and everything is finished, so there will be no sink or ice maker, etc.

The first picture is what I'm considering for the back area. Not that exact piece, as it's a over $6k piece from LOWES, but something similiar. Probably a bit smaller. I'm going to be using a base under the counter fridge/beverage center back there too. That little space is 27" deep x 60 5/8" wide x 81 1/2 high.

That last picture is taken directly from the centerline of the door that goes into my theater and would also be the centerline of the screen in the theater. So, the bar will basically end up across from the theater, which is nice....

http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/3254/1151528yj9.th.jpg (http://img408.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1151528yj9.jpg)

http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/3272/1151524bb1.th.jpg (http://img118.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1151524bb1.jpg)

http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/844/1151525di9.th.jpg (http://img118.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1151525di9.jpg)

http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/6527/1151526sn5.th.jpg (http://img218.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1151526sn5.jpg)

Here's a few more pics of my set-up. I hired it out so I can't comment inteligently on how to build it...




Thats cheating LOL

looks awesome by the way.

FAR out of my budget :(

Thats cheating LOL

looks awesome by the way.

FAR out of my budget :(

Yea...budget is why I built my own. I set a budget of $1,000 including sink and bar fidg. I came in right at $1,300 but two things pretty much set me over...but it was ok. First, I had to go out of town to work just as I was getting ready to tile the bar. My wife "surprised me" by having our tile guy do it for $200 which I really didn't mind. He did in about 4-6 hours total what would have taken me 4-6 DAYS. And Second, I ended up spendign about $90.00 on a hammer drill rather then rent. While I figured it would be nice to have, I have yet to use it since. Ah well, it is a good back up to my cordless.

This is a little late but thought that I would show some pics of my finished bar. Its all wood (thats the look I wanted). Cedar on panels on the front. I made my own bar rail because I didnt want to pay $15 a foot to buy it, and it turned out really well (i think). I also made my bar top removable, because I built my bar in my garage and then brought it into my house (bar top would have been to wide to get in connected). Even though its just under eight feet long it was HEAVY. I also sealed the top with envirotex. Its an epoxy that is self leveling, waterproof, and heat resistant. It hardens to a consistency much like glass. I often dont use coasters and whatever is spilled can be wiped right up. Its a small room so its a small bar. I wish I had some of the room that some of the other bars on here are in.

Hope you like it.

Very nice. Great job on making the bar rail yourself. What coating did you use for the bar top?

Nice bar!! It really turned out well!!

How did you go about making your own rail??

Very nice. Great job on making the bar rail yourself. What coating did you use for the bar top?

Looks like he used Envirotex according to his post above.

Nice work! How did you make that bar rail?

The top is sealed with envirotex lite is what its called (you can google it). It comes with two compounds in separate containers, which when mixed together will harden and seal. If you use it make sure there are no small cracks because until it hardens it will leak through. I had a little problem because my bar top is made from redwood strips. Basically I bought redwood 2x4's and ripped them into half inch strips and then glued and stapled them to the top. I didnt think it would run but, there were a couple of knotholes that it slowly ran out of. I just kept adding envirotex to holes until it hardened enough to stop leaking.

Anyway, the bar rail. Its hard to explain, but I will try to make it simple yet understandable. Its basically whats called a cove cut (I was told this after I did it). All you need is a table saw, some clamps, and 2x4 to use as guides, and your wood (I used a 12 foot 2x6 pine board, straight and not twisted). clamp the 2x4's on the table saw at a 43 degree angle to the blade. Lower the blade to make about 1/8 inch cut and slide board across blade. This should make a shallow groove all the way down the middle of the board. Raise blade slightly, and slide board across blade. Repeat until you reach desired depth. Confused?

I would suggest using a scrap piece first to make sure it comes out the way you like it. I off centered mine slightly so the top of the rail was a little thicker than the bottom. I then use a router to round the edges and sanded down the grooves from the cove cut. A lot of the sanding was done by hand but it wasnt too tough.

Heres a couple more pictures, one is of a cove cut diagram (hope it makes more sense than my explanation), the second is my practice piece, third putting on redwood strips.

So here is what the bar looks like dry fit with the new framing for the panels. So far, so good. Next Saturday I go to the place that can match the stain for me.

Bud

Bud, can you send a sample to that place and have them match stain and send it out?

Looks like they did a pretty darn good job matching for you!

It did come out great. Not sure if you can send them a sample, but there are several places scattered across the country. No harm in calling them.

Here's the link to their site, but not seeing any in Ohio....

http://www.woodfinisherssupply.com/distributors.shtml

Homepage: http://www.woodfinisherssupply.com/nof-index.shtml

Bud

Hi guys , been watching and learning from this thread for close to a year - LOL
Neuner , if you're still out there , any finish pics (sorry guys , but his bar is my favourite)
Also , what bartop overhang works best , including the elbow rail . Thanks all .

Thanks! Finish pics can be viewed at the end of my construction pics link in my signature. Not sure what your asking about the overhang. Do you mean the bar rail?

Thanks! Finish pics can be viewed at the end of my construction pics link in my signature. Not sure what your asking about the overhang. Do you mean the bar rail?

I mean the distance from the bar front to the furthest point out on your bar top , including the rail . Does this distance work well or in retrospect would you have liked more overhang . Thanks

P.S. - your finished product is beautiful . I might go with your basic design and used some raised panels instead of glass blocks .still thinkin -LOL

12 inches minimum overhang to be seated comfortably. If it is a standing room only bar you can get away with a smaller overhang.



Hi guys , been watching and learning from this thread for close to a year - LOL
Neuner , if you're still out there , any finish pics (sorry guys , but his bar is my favourite)
Also , what bartop overhang works best , including the elbow rail . Thanks all .

I'll have to measure or lookup some of my other posts but I think it's a little over 12 inches. It is perfect. It looks right and even my brother who is 6'-4" doesn't bang his knees.

Thanks for the replies guys . One more question though . What is a good width for a bar top , including the elbow rail . thanks

I don't at all disagree with the measurement posted above. But if you can't do those, don't let that deter you. I had a long enough, but rather narrow room to put my bar in so I cut inches everywhere I could.

For the bartenders work area I used bathroom vanity cabinets (18" deep) as opposed to regular kitchen cabinets at 24" deep. Also my overhang is only about 8". Yes, that means you cannot perfect sit under it like at a regular table, but it is close and still comfortable. Finally, my bar top is only 12". Yes a few more inches would have been nice, but it is easily big enough for a plate of food when use the bar for overflow for dinners and entertaining. And I am very, very pleased on how the bar "fits in the room". It looks very proportional. You can look at the pics in this thread and see that I use blue painters tape to get a feel for dimensions. This worked well and I changed the design several times using that tape.

Here is a picture of the Bar I finished this past year. A complete set of photos can be seen at http://tony.homedns.org/photos/Home/Bar%20Remodeling/index.html

Bar made of Mahogany plywood, trim, and the top is a solid 1 inch mahogany board. I have a gate on the right to get in.

I finished off the bar in red mahogany oil based stain, and used oil based poly (4 coats on walls , and 9 coats on top. Back bar, has a cherry cabinet in the middle for storage, a wine cooler and a fridge on either side. I made a lighted bottle shelf for the back bar, and I have a kegerator in the next room with a line running to the back bar.

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii223/Tony_M_photos/Bar%20Construction/DSC_00266.jpg

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii223/Tony_M_photos/Pool%20Room/DSC_00346.jpg

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii223/Tony_M_photos/Pool%20Room/DSC_00463.jpg

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii223/Tony_M_photos/Pool%20Room/DSC_0057.jpg

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii223/Tony_M_photos/Pool%20Room/DSC_00322.jpg

I don't at all disagree with the measurement posted above. But if you can't do those, don't let that deter you. I had a long enough, but rather narrow room to put my bar in so I cut inches everywhere I could.

For the bartenders work area I used bathroom vanity cabinets (12" deep) as opposed to regular kitchen cabinets at 18" deep. Also my overhang is only about 8". Yes, that means you cannot perfect sit under it like at a regular table, but it is close and still comfortable. Finally, my bar top is only 12". Yes a few more inches would have been nice, but it is easily big enough for a plate of food when use the bar for overflow for dinners and entertaining. And I am very, very pleased on how the bar "fits in the room". It looks very proportional. You can look at the pics in this thread and see that I use blue painters tape to get a feel for dimensions. This worked well and I changed the design several times using that tape.

I agree that you shouldn't feel enslaved by these dimensions posted above. I have one side of my bar which I always intended to be "standing room only" where the overhang is less than optimal too. And, if you look at my pics you won't be able to notice the difference. I do have long sections for seating though.

I agree that you shouldn't feel enslaved by these dimensions posted above. I have one side of my bar which I always intended to be "standing room only" where the overhang is less than optimal too. And, if you look at my pics you won't be able to notice the difference. I do have long sections for seating though.

100% agree! And I corrected the dimensions in my post.

That was perhaps some of the most fun I had, changing and trying find a better way to fit things in and room while also working well and of course looking good.

There are optimal dimensions, but there is no "bar police". The most important thing is building something you can enjoy and share with others.

Here is a picture of the Bar I finished this past year. A complete set of photos can be seen at
Bar made of Mahogany plywood, trim, and the top is a solid 1 inch mahogany board. I have a gate on the right to get in.

I finished off the bar in red mahogany oil based stain, and used oil based poly (4 coats on walls , and 9 coats on top. Back bar, has a cherry cabinet in the middle for storage, a wine cooler and a fridge on either side. I made a lighted bottle shelf for the back bar, and I have a kegerator in the next room with a line running to the back bar.



Nice bar...very nice.

Here is a picture of the Bar I finished this past year. A complete set of photos can be seen at http://tony.homedns.org/photos/Home/...ing/index.html

Bar made of Mahogany plywood, trim, and the top is a solid 1 inch mahogany board. I have a gate on the right to get in.

I finished off the bar in red mahogany oil based stain, and used oil based poly (4 coats on walls , and 9 coats on top. Back bar, has a cherry cabinet in the middle for storage, a wine cooler and a fridge on either side. I made a lighted bottle shelf for the back bar, and I have a kegerator in the next room with a line running to the back bar.



Nice job Tony! I hope you, your family and friends enjoy it for many years to come!

A while back I posted I was looking for glass shelving to put in a window opening to hold pint glasses. I finally did something about it.

To make a long story short, I called several glass places and didn't like the cost or the time to cut the glass. So I decided to go with wood and make my own. I had stain left over from the bar and a couple pieces of trim left over so I went that direction. I originally was only going to do one window, but happy with the results so going to do the 2nd wondow for sure and maybe even the smaller third window.

I basically built a wall frame with horizontal support as the shelving, here is are pics.

Overview, pre-build,

http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/1218/overviewmediumdt3.jpg

test fit, pre-stain and trim..

http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/650/framedmediumyu4.jpg

I then removed the entire unit and stained it. I also used some left over trim to re-trim the window itself and cover the vertical support for the shelving,

http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/1269/stainedwwindowtrimmediull6.jpg

Then I couldn't decide it to add trim to the shelving or not. But, I wanted a lip to the shelving so I added trim for decoration and lip,

http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/2721/shelftrimmediumtb0.jpg

Completed,

http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/2607/completemediumsd4.jpg

Overview (sorry about the cluttered bar)

http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/3729/overviewcompletemediumnm5.jpg

that's sweet

Perfect! Nice work.

Thanks, I'm very happy with them. The pic's don't do them justice. I wanted glass as I thought wood would cut out to much light, but it really doesn't. And only took a couple hours to do (of course lots of time waiting for the two coast of stain and clear coat to dry).

Beautiful work, Sdall. That really jazzs up the place immensely.

A little off subject , but where do you find such an assortment of pint glasses ?

Well there are places on line and ebay...but every one of mine i have from my travels. I travel a lot for work and fun. Some people collect shot glasses, some people collect postcards, some people collect thimbles, I collect pint glasses.

Typically when I travel (and like I say, I do a lot) it is for anywhere between several days to a month or more. So I have time to find a place to catch a beer which is where I usually find them. But I try to pick one up any place that I enjoy, had fun, met good people (even like Disney, Universal and I have a couple from Vegas).

As an example, in the October I was working in Colorado Springs and realized I hadn't found a pint glass yet. Yea, lots of places had them, but it was my drive up Pikes Peak when it started snowing that I found one I wanted. At the gift shop where I stopped, they had them!! Since it was snowing I sat and talked to the person there for nearly an hour learning about Pikes Peak, what they do besides work at a gift shop, etc, etc...Those are best as there is a story or memory behind them! Yea, at first a Pikes Peak pint glass sounds cheesy or touristy, but with story, the cool person I met and that we sat and watched the snow half way up a huge mountain, makes it fun to have.

That really jazzs up the place immensely.

You are exactly right! I especially surprised how much a difference the window trim makes!

Despite all the "stuff" have hanging everywhere, you are right, it was getting a little "mono-color" in there. I know I'm going to build the same shelving for the other window next to that one. And I might do it for the smaller window as well. But I'm also considering putting that window trim with that stain on just about all the openings in the room. It seems to give it a little "pop" and depth.

That trim isn't expensive and of course stain is cheap. Seems like a cheap, nice and relatively easy upgrade. I drilled pilot holes with a very small drill bit and didn't crack even one board. The trim on the shelving itself I just used glue (thats why you see the blue painters tape holding it in place while it sets).

I should've added that I thought your bar looked great before, but it certainly has more "pop" now. I'm sure you get lots of compliments...

And, I know what you mean about the collecting thing...I do that with drink "coozies" (what we call them around here - but they're basically the thing that keeps a drink can cold)...I even have one from Pikes Peak too. :)

I should've added that I thought your bar looked great before, but it certainly has more "pop" now. I'm sure you get lots of compliments...

And, I know what you mean about the collecting thing...I do that with drink "coozies" (what we call them around here - but they're basically the thing that keeps a drink can cold)...I even have one from Pikes Peak too. :)

Oh no worries...I didn't mean to make is sound like you were insulting my bar or anything. I had noticed I was keeping all the color the same. And the dark stain trim added some pop and I really like it.

The frame for my bar is complete (about 10 ft. long)however , it is out of level by approx. 1/8" of an inch .I am concernrd about pooling of the Poly ,once i pour onto finished bartop. Is there anything i can do to minimize ? Do you know of a levelling compound i can use on the top of the bar frame before i install the top ? Thanks again for your help .

Not sure, but can you do it in two steps? First a smaller amount on the top to level it - it would pool to the lower area. The second pour would be to complete the top.

Bud

http://triplejinlay.com/

This link has a gallery of photos from a custom builder in central, IL. He builds custom bars, poker tables, etc. Notice that he doesn't use stain, the color variance comes from use of different wood species. The bar he made for the Pub II in Normal, IL is really something. Probably not a DIY project but maybe inspiration for someone.

http://triplejinlay.com/

This link has a gallery of photos from a custom builder in central, IL. He builds custom bars, poker tables, etc. Notice that he doesn't use stain, the color variance comes from use of different wood species. The bar he made for the Pub II in Normal, IL is really something. Probably not a DIY project but maybe inspiration for someone.

Ahhh... the Pub II. Maybe I never noticed the bar there because I was too busy scarfing down all their famous cheese balls. Good times, good times.

I went to quite a few sites for ideas, and one I believe is called barplans.com.

I wish I could find some plans that use premade cabinets in their plans. I'm sure I can eventually figure something out but it would be nice to see something to start with.

If your bar is not fastened to the floor you can use common wood wedges available at any home center to create a level before you pour. My bar is 10' on the front and a 6' return on one end and that is my plan when the time comes. Good luck and let us know how it come out.

I wish I could find some plans that use premade cabinets in their plans. I'm sure I can eventually figure something out but it would be nice to see something to start with.

wow...there are a lot of folks on here that have finished their bars and chronicaled how they did it with cabinets....Irmo, Bud (chinadAWG)(Chinadog), many others. Plans, smans....get creative bro!....

Yep, Randy's right, I used pre-built cabs on my bar, both for underneath and hanging back behind it.

Yep, Randy's right, I used pre-built cabs on my bar, both for underneath and hanging back behind it.


Do you have any pics? This thread is getting kind of big.

Does this bar belong to anyone on this board? It's almost exactly what I was looking to build. http://www.electronichouse.com/slideshow/category/3192/566

Do you have any pics? This thread is getting kind of big.

Do a search on my userID for threads started...I don't start many threads so you won't have to look far. Good luck!

Does this bar belong to anyone on this board? It's almost exactly what I was looking to build. http://www.electronichouse.com/slideshow/category/3192/566

That's Bud's (chinadog) bar! Bud, I didn't know you made Electronic House. Cool!

-Ryan

Chinadog. Look under Blazing Ridge Cinema in the Theater build forum.

Yes, it got added just today. The person actually wrote the article a while back and it just went out. I forgot it was coming with all the stuff going on in the ATL over the weekend.

Bud

Do a search on my userID for threads started...I don't start many threads so you won't have to look far. Good luck!

None of your pics show up in the thread.

Okay, sorry about that. Not sure what's up with it then.

Can anybody else see the pics in the thread below?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=891879

Imagestation migrated to Shutterfly awhile back, but the links were supposed to still be valid...

Maybe He/she is being blocked from work...like me :)

Which is exactly why I can't verify if the links are good either. ;)

Maybe He/she is being blocked from work...like me :)

Nope He isn't being blocked. The links don't work.

Irmo,

No worky from homey either!

Quick question for anyone:

Has anyone tried using the envirotex lite on a bar top that has been tiled?? I think it would be neat to use a slate for a bar top, but because of the very rough and uneven texture that usually accompanies slate, it wouldn't be the best surface for setting beer & wine glasses and other things.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

I plan on putting ribbed black rubber matt on my bartop , then cover with Envirotex . This stuff is supposed to cover just about anything . I'll let you know how it turns out , should been doing top in another week .

Irmo,

No worky from homey either!

Dang it, guess I gotta update those links then. Thanks for checking...

Quick question for anyone:

Has anyone tried using the envirotex lite on a bar top that has been tiled?? I think it would be neat to use a slate for a bar top, but because of the very rough and uneven texture that usually accompanies slate, it wouldn't be the best surface for setting beer & wine glasses and other things.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

I don't see why that wouldn't work. It would be interesting to see what the glossy envirotex does to the color of the tiles...I love how it pulls the color out of my hardwood flooring on my bar.

I would certainly suggest you test it on a seperate tile piece first though. Off your bar obviously. Slate tile is probably pretty porous, so you're likely to get all sorts of bubbles and other irregularities come up after you pour. You may need to seal it with poly first.

Good luck and show us how it turns out.

I don't see why that wouldn't work. It would be interesting to see what the glossy envirotex does to the color of the tiles...I love how it pulls the color out of my hardwood flooring on my bar.

I would certainly suggest you test it on a seperate tile piece first though. Off your bar obviously. Slate tile is probably pretty porous, so you're likely to get all sorts of bubbles and other irregularities come up after you pour. You may need to seal it with poly first.

Good luck and show us how it turns out.
Yeah, I was planning on testing it before I do it, but I was just wondering if there was anyone that had possibly tried this. Thanks for the suggestion about sealing it with poly first. I didn't think of that, but it makes sense.

Hey Irmo did you get those pics?

What would you guys say is the minimum space needed on the outside of the bar and a wall? I have an area that's about 10' X 10' with a wall on 3 sides. I'd like to do a corner type bar but not sure how far out I could come and still be comfortable.

Irmo?

I probably won't get to fixing those links until the weekend at the soonest, sorry...

As for space on the outside of the bar, I dunno...I hadn't really thought of that before. My concern was the space behind the bar, as I have lots of room outside the bar.

If your space is 10x10 though, I think it would probably look best to go symetrical and have the bar bisect that space right down the middle. But that really depends on whether you plan to have a back-counter behind your bar, which will eat up 2' feet of your back-bar space. You won't be able to split your 10x10 space if you do that.

One good suggestion I saw on here (I think it was Sdallnct that did it) was to use painter's tape and mark out your dimensions on the floor. You can get a good feel for the spatial relations that way, and if you want to go even farther, use cardboard boxes to fill in the spaces for the bar, cabinets, etc.

yes good advice

Yes I was planning on doing some mock ups but was just sitting here trying to draw it out on some graph paper. The area is basically like a 10' X 10' square with one corner missing so that's where you would enter

Okay, well if there is only one corner missing, then you would still have 4 walls right? Just 2 of the walls (that meet to form the "missing" corner) are shorter?

Or, do you only have 2 walls total instead?

a diagonal corner bar is pretty nice too .

a diagonal corner bar is pretty nice too .

Yep, there's lots of things you could do with that design,and it has a built in focal point (for artwork or a TV, etc).

great job irmo

a diagonal corner bar is pretty nice too .

Are you talking about a straight bar put diagonaly across a corner?

Actually , my brother is in the process of building such a bar .He built a diagonal cabinet (straight across the corner) for liquor and T.V. In
front of that ,his bar runs 90 degrees off the wall for several feet then angles back for several feet (kind of a boomerang shape overall) Looks great in the room .

Actually , my brother is in the process of building such a bar .He built a diagonal cabinet (straight across the corner) for liquor and T.V. In
front of that ,his bar runs 90 degrees off the wall for several feet then angles back for several feet (kind of a boomerang shape overall) Looks great in the room .


Like to see some pics.

ditto

I wish I could find some plans that use premade cabinets in their plans. I'm sure I can eventually figure something out but it would be nice to see something to start with.

Think my pics start on p. 2. I used unstained but pre-made vanity cabinets. I used vanity as they are about 6" narrower then kitchen cabinets. They come in varous lengths (18", 24", 36", 42", etc). I was just going to frame out something, but I decided I wanted some drawers and doors. So went to a cabinet wholesaler and found them very reasonably priced.

I figured I would add some pics of my bar in the bar thread. More of them are in my HT build thread if you're interested.

Started out with buying some unfinished cabinets from Lowe's. I stained those and then laid things out. I plan to put in an undercounter wine refrigerator against the rear wall and then put a kegerator under the bar.
http://lorishookphotography.com/Private/Bar%20-%2003.jpg

Here's the piece where the sink will go. The stain is Minwax English Chestnut.
http://lorishookphotography.com/Private/Bar%20-%2007.jpg

Here's the framed wall for the bar. I glued it down to the floor.
http://lorishookphotography.com/Private/Bar%20-%2009.jpg

Here it is with the plywood on the outside. This is 1/8" thick birch.
http://lorishookphotography.com/Private/Bar%20-%2014.jpg

Here the top piece above the bar is installed. I used liquid nails all around and screwed it into the joists as well. My joists run left to right so there's no screws in the middle... just LN. I had to prop this part up until the LN dried... You can also see the bar top installed.
http://lorishookphotography.com/Private/Bar%20-%2018.jpg

Put in the columns on top of the bar top.
http://lorishookphotography.com/Private/Bar%20-%2020.jpg

Here's the hitchen side of things... The wine cooler is in and the sink is sitting on top of it.
http://lorishookphotography.com/Private/Bar%20-%2023.jpg

Put mor 1/8" birch on the soffit around top, and ran electric for 3 recessed lights.
http://lorishookphotography.com/Private/Bar%20-%2027.jpg

Here's where it is today.... Everything is done except the tile work on the counter areas. My wife and I picked out some expensive tile and just don't have the $$$ to get it right now.
http://lorishookphotography.com/Private/DSC_0451.jpg

Here's the underside of the ceiling. I cut 2 slots for the posts and other than that, it's 1 piece. Was a bit of a challenge to get in there though!
http://lorishookphotography.com/Private/DSC_0050.jpg

Here's a finished shot of the kitchen side. I built a little wine bottle shelf just to the right of the wine cooler... Had a bit of extra space and I didn't want to waste it. Hard to see from this picture though.
http://lorishookphotography.com/Private/DSC_0051.jpg

Here's the bar side. I'm open to any good ideas on kegerators and finishing them off. That's 1 hing I haven't looked at too closely yet.
http://lorishookphotography.com/Private/DSC_0053.jpg

Here's a closeup of the underneath of the bar. Same stain as the rest of my basement and theater. Gloss PolyU on it. Turned out pretty nice. Got the wrought iron thingies on eBay for dirt cheap.
http://lorishookphotography.com/Private/DSC_0055.jpg

Here's a closeup of the bar top. I took a handrail and routed a 3/4" slot in it to fit over the bar top. It's 3/4" sold birch plywood. Glued it on and put some toe nails in for good measure.
http://lorishookphotography.com/Private/DSC_0083.jpg

Looks sweet. Are you planning on putting a kegerator in that open area between the cabinets?

Thanks. Yep on the kegerator... it can't come soon enough!

Awesome, very nice Jerrod! Love the design and stain. Great work!

Awesome, very nice Jerrod! Love the design and stain. Great work!

Thanks! Appreciate it. Can't wait until I can get the tile and kegerator installed. Then I'll be really happy!:D

Nice bar. Love the overhead stuff. Wish I could do something like that in my bar, but with the vaulted ceiling...don't think so.

this is all my brother sent me . he's about 1/2 way done

Nice bar. Love the overhead stuff. Wish I could do something like that in my bar, but with the vaulted ceiling...don't think so.

Thanks. If you have a vaulted ceiling, what about an overhead piece that matches your vaulted ceiling? Might look cool, depending on how you bar is situated....???? Just a thought

this is all my brother sent me . he's about 1/2 way done

That's an interesting design. Would like to see some more pics if you get them. Tell him to get on here and share

Thanks. If you have a vaulted ceiling, what about an overhead piece that matches your vaulted ceiling? Might look cool, depending on how you bar is situated....???? Just a thought

I say you just do the whole vaulted ceiling in mirrors.

Awesome, very nice Jerrod! Love the design and stain. Great work!

Randy,
Was meaning to ask you what are the dimensions of your bar. In particular what are the lengths down each side?

I say you just do the whole vaulted ceiling in mirrors.

Are you talking about for the bar or his bedroom???? :D

Randy,
Was meaning to ask you what are the dimensions of your bar. In particular what are the lengths down each side?


str1der,

I believe it is 7ishX4ishX2ish feet including the bar railing :)

Well i'm about 1/2 way done - it's actually my first woodworking project . Not perfect but i'm liking how it's coming together . The wall behind the bar will be Ledgestone.
A question . Do you guys use stainable wood filler or putty for imperfections ? I find the filler really does't stain well . If you use putty do you poly over it ? Thanks

Nice work! It's coming along...

As for your question, I used the stainable filler but you're right, it doesn't stain very well. Fortunately, I only had minimal nail holes that I was filling so it's not noticeable at all...I'm probably the only one that could point them out actually.

Nice work! It's coming along...

As for your question, I used the stainable filler but you're right, it doesn't stain very well. Fortunately, I only had minimal nail holes that I was filling so it's not noticeable at all...I'm probably the only one that could point them out actually.


I find that it's always better to use the stain colored wood putty once you're finished staining. You can usually find a shade that's pretty close to what ever you used.

I find that it's always better to use the stain colored wood putty once you're finished staining. You can usually find a shade that's pretty close to what ever you used.

But do you poly over it ?

But do you poly over it ?

I did.

Before purchasing my kegerator kit I did some research on this site.

http://www.micromatic.com/forum/us-en/

Useful information about issues with temp, length of beer lines ext...

But do you poly over it ?


Never had a problem.

i don't have printed plans, but i do have some step by step construction photos of how I built my bar.

it is a basic L shaped bar, except the 'foot' of the L is actually a black jack table that i built.

i had to cut out a section of counter top behind the bar to give enough room to be able to deal black jack.

(i'll post a link to the construction photos as soon as i have three posts...)

finished product:
view from behind the bar:
http://www.landchark.com/wp-content/uploads/2006/11/17.jpg

view from the drinkin' side of the bar:
http://www.landchark.com/wp-content/uploads/2006/11/56.jpg

That's a unique idea. Nice work!

Here's where it is today.... Everything is done except the tile work on the counter areas. My wife and I picked out some expensive tile and just don't have the $$$ to get it right now.

Very nice bar. Have you thought about an Envirotex Epoxy top? You have a very nice finish to the wood already, so would be a shame to cover it with tile.

That's a unique idea. Nice work!

thanks.

it's quite the hit at parties.

finally hit the 3 post mark...yay.

step by step bar construction photos (http://www.landchark.com/casino-fun/bar-in-the-basement/)

and

how to build the lighted booze bottle shelf (http://www.landchark.com/casino-fun/home-casino/bar/lighted-booze-bottle-shelf/)

Need some suggestions for additional light in my bar.

Most have seen my bar built in this thread and the changes I continue to make. But now I must really do something about light. There are 4 skylights 3 windows and a glass door, so plenty of light during the day. But only a fan light, and small "street" lamp in a corner is all I got at night.

My ceiling is vaulted peak with no way to get to the attic. I'd like some spot lights to showcase some art on the walls and maybe some sort of hanging pendent lights over the bar itself. But I'm not sure how to do that without it being ugly!!

Suggestions? Ideas? Especially any links to lighting.

I have reviewed your pictures on page 2 of this thread.

It looks like you have full access to the back wall of the bar. What about sconces on the back wall , or building a soffett, supported by posts on the bar that you can run lighting into. Electrical can come in along the back wall. As you have an L shaped bar I think it could be done.

Need some suggestions for additional light in my bar.

Most have seen my bar built in this thread and the changes I continue to make. But now I must really do something about light. There are 4 skylights 3 windows and a glass door, so plenty of light during the day. But only a fan light, and small "street" lamp in a corner is all I got at night.

My ceiling is vaulted peak with no way to get to the attic. I'd like some spot lights to showcase some art on the walls and maybe some sort of hanging pendent lights over the bar itself. But I'm not sure how to do that without it being ugly!!

Suggestions? Ideas? Especially any links to lighting.

yup - i agree - make a post or posts(tall boxes really) against the back wall , or even build a fake wall out a few inches(to run wires) You can tap into your existing wall elec outlets . Build a bulkhead or soffit as Tony said above your posts or extend the soffit over the bar top (it would be kinda "U" shaped then)

Oh, now that's an idea! Why didn't I think of that!

The wall the bar is on (L connection) is the common wall with kitchen and can't do anything there. However, the opposite wall is common to the garage, so can easily do something there.

I actually found some "cable" track lighting I kind of like. I just couldn't figure out how to get power to it. Will have to think about that!! Awesome, thank you!

Looking forward to updated pictures when you get started.

Hey folks I am looking for some alternatives to building a wooden bar. My basement walls are wood ceiling is drywall floor will be tile and I think a wood bar will be just to much wood. I thought the glass block bar was neat but to moderen for me. Basicly I am just hoping some of you might have some more metal bar ideas(on a mid to low range budget) or pics im having trouble finding anything. Thanks J.T.

I think metel is going to cost you big bucks regardless of the design. Aluminum, Stainless Steel or Copper, could all be used for a bartop.

There was a writeup in these forums of someone who made their bar top out of concrete. It really looks better then you think it would.

I actually found some "cable" track lighting I kind of like. I just couldn't figure out how to get power to it. Will have to think about that!! Awesome, thank you!

Cable track lighting is a great way to go in a basement. I have them in my basement, and it is very versatile. I have several spot lights on the cables and can move them around depending on what kind of parties we are having. They are also good when spotlighting different art / hangings on the wall. If you decide to change the stuff on your wall, you have the flexibility to change accent lighting.

One negative is that they heat up a room very quickly, and 15-30 people in the basement, it heats up very quickly. I've had to turn on the air condition for New Year's Eve parties when it was 10 degrees outside.

Hey folks I am looking for some alternatives to building a wooden bar. My basement walls are wood ceiling is drywall floor will be tile and I think a wood bar will be just to much wood. I thought the glass block bar was neat but to moderen for me. Basicly I am just hoping some of you might have some more metal bar ideas(on a mid to low range budget) or pics im having trouble finding anything. Thanks J.T.

id go plywood (or drywall for that matter )covered with tile or brick or stone or etc etc.

Well mine is not a basement (few if any basements in Dallas). But yea, I'm liking the idea. Will be home in a week and see what I can do.


Cable track lighting is a great way to go in a basement. I have them in my basement, and it is very versatile. I have several spot lights on the cables and can move them around depending on what kind of parties we are having. They are also good when spotlighting different art / hangings on the wall. If you decide to change the stuff on your wall, you have the flexibility to change accent lighting.

One negative is that they heat up a room very quickly, and 15-30 people in the basement, it heats up very quickly. I've had to turn on the air condition for New Year's Eve parties when it was 10 degrees outside.

You know there maybe some options. You could frame the bar as normal and then "skin" it with almost anything. Tin ceiling tiles? License plates? Hardy board (siding that is basically concreate) and paint it w/e color. Or use drywall and wallpaper, paint, w/e. You could also do a stone veneer (my lowes had some lightweight "fake" stone veneer).


id go plywood (or drywall for that matter )covered with tile or brick or stone or etc etc.

Thanks that gave me a good idea. I think maybe a fake stone bar with nice wood top will go good with my project. Any bar top ideas?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=107291&stc=1&d=1208008605
Condecco 2.jpg

You know I have seen some nice looking bar tops using Pergo type flooring. Nice colors, durable, and cheap.



Thanks that gave me a good idea. I think maybe a fake stone bar with nice wood top will go good with my project. Any bar top ideas?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=107291&stc=1&d=1208008605
Condecco 2.jpg

you can really use your imagination for a bar top too .
Presently i have black ribbed rubber matt i just finished gluing down on the top of my bar (really like the textured look)- just getting ready to pour on the envirotex . the black looks great with all the dark oak i used everywhere else . Envirotex will coat just about anything , so let your imagination run wild - good luck .

you can really use your imagination for a bar top too .
Presently i have black ribbed rubber matt i just finished gluing down on the top of my bar (really like the textured look)- just getting ready to pour on the envirotex . the black looks great with all the dark oak i used everywhere else . Envirotex will coat just about anything , so let your imagination run wild - good luck .


any photos that you could share? I'd like to see how that turned out

i should have it wrapped up in a few more days , then i'll post pics . Your bar looks awesome by the way

I have to say finding 18" cabinets is about impossible. I can find 18" wall but not base. Does anyone know if a barsink will fit in a 18" cabinet if I find any?

I have to say finding 18" cabinets is about impossible. I can find 18" wall but not base. Does anyone know if a barsink will fit in a 18" cabinet if I find any?

I think it depends on the bar sink. Get 24" base cabinets and cut the backs off with a circular saw, the n put a new back on. My neighbor did this.

Bud

I have to say finding 18" cabinets is about impossible. I can find 18" wall but not base. Does anyone know if a barsink will fit in a 18" cabinet if I find any?


I found 18" cabinets. You need to look for vanity or bathroom cabinets. I found mine at a cabinet builders warehouse. The had everything from 18" width to 36" width. I even got some with drawers that it nice. I had no luck at Lowes, Home Depot.

I found 18" cabinets. You need to look for vanity or bathroom cabinets. I found mine at a cabinet builders warehouse. The had everything from 18" width to 36" width. I even got some with drawers that it nice. I had no luck at Lowes, Home Depot.

I did look at some vanity cabinets and that is an option. I do have a couple issues with them though. Even the tall ones are a little short so I would have to build something for them to sit on. The other thing is I was hoping to have a lazy susan type corner cabinet or at least a blind corner cabinet because where it meets the wall I was planning on having a bar fridge next to it so you wouldn't be able to open the door of the cabinet.

Are you really tall? I don't find the vanity cabinets short at all. In fact, I built a 1/2 wall on the outside for the bar side and it works really well. I also put in a beverage center. Now my sink is stand alone behind the bar.

Are you really tall? I don't find the vanity cabinets short at all. In fact, I built a 1/2 wall on the outside for the bar side and it works really well. I also put in a beverage center. Now my sink is stand alone behind the bar.

I guess the taller vanitys aren't bad at around 34".

Envirotex now on my ribbed black mat - real happy with the results .No poly on the wood yet though .

That looks great. Neat idea.

I think it depends on the bar sink. Get 24" base cabinets and cut the backs off with a circular saw, the n put a new back on. My neighbor did this.

Bud


Did he have any issues. It seems like most cabinets would start to fall apart when you cut the back off. Any tips to make it go smoothly?

I was actually thinking about doing that exact thing to make my backbar cabinets. My space is limited and I am planning on only going 12" - 16" deep.

Envirotex now on my ribbed black mat - real happy with the results .No poly on the wood yet though .

Does Envirotex raise the grain on wood like a water based poly? I'm not finding a yes/no answer on the web.

Does Envirotex raise the grain on wood like a water based poly? I'm not finding a yes/no answer on the web.

I don't think I understand what you're asking by that.

I don't think I understand what you're asking by that.

When finishing wood, you have to be careful that the product you using doesn't raise the grain on the wood since water swells wood fibers leaving "whiskers" on the surface. You can get around this by raising it yourself with a damn rag and then sanding the surface again after it dries a bit to get rid of the whiskers.

I was asking if Envirotex raises the grain.

When finishing wood, you have to be careful that the product you using doesn't raise the grain on the wood since water swells wood fibers leaving "whiskers" on the surface. You can get around this by raising it yourself with a damn rag and then sanding the surface again after it dries a bit to get rid of the whiskers.

I was asking if Envirotex raises the grain.


I would think the Envirotex is usually pretty thick that even if it did swell a little it still wouldn't protrude through the surface.

I would think the Envirotex is usually pretty thick that even if it did swell a little it still wouldn't protrude through the surface.

I agree with that...it would take a pretty thin application of it in order for that to show. It may be happening under the surface, but Envirotex self-levels so you'd never know it.

Sorry man .. can't help. But, the dicussion is making me thirsty. Damn!! I need a job where I can drink and get paid for it.

I know exactly what you’re talking about and I would think Envirotex being a polymer is too thick to be absorbed into the wood fiber to raise the grain. So I don’t think it will be problem for you.

Good luck.

Does Envirotex raise the grain on wood like a water based poly? I'm not finding a yes/no answer on the web.

Nope. It's a two-part polymer epoxy. It goes down thick-- think fifty coats of high-gloss poly.

I considered using a two part epoxy when I finished my bar top. however I chose not to as I have a liftup gate on one side of my bar, and I was concerned about finishing off that area.

I used 9 coats of oil based poly instead, each was hand rubbed between coats.

My question, for those who used a two part epoxy system; if I decided to do this, could I use the poly surface as a base coat, by sanding it out first?

I would think that as long as it's well-cured it'd work well. My wife has put it over water-based poly and acrylic paints with no problems. If it's not well-cured, I think it's possible that it could fog, but I've never seen it do that.

Your best bet might be to prepare a test piece of wood with some of the poly you used, let it cure for a week, put some epoxy over it and see what happens.

No issues that I'm aware of. Obviously you have to put the back back on, so there is some work involved with that (and cut shelves). It's not the most elegant solution, but it is doable.

Bud

should be some answers in here about Envirotex - save this document and open
I dont think you can open it directly from here .

Thanks Malbols, I need to sand and prep the area, first.

nice pics

Just a few pics of my "SnackBar"
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk139/skersr19495/Theater/img_0030.jpg
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk139/skersr19495/Theater/img_0032.jpg
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk139/skersr19495/Theater/img_0031.jpg
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk139/skersr19495/Theater/img_0043.jpg
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk139/skersr19495/Theater/img_0034.jpg

I am trying to make 22.5 degree miter cuts on my bar top rail, like the handrail jerrodshook put on his bar. My cuts are not lining up right can anyone tell me how to fix this problem.

the rail needs to sit in the saw like it would sit on your bartop . Meaning , you need to sit the rail on a 3/4" or 2 pcs. of 3/4" strip or strips (depending on the rail size) of wood . Get it ?:)

Awesome bars, all! I'm just starting out on building my bar in my media room, so I've been following this thread for the past few months. Awesome info. Chinadog, I will definitely be stealing some ideas from yours. Great stuff.

Keep those pics coming!

No problem, good luck with it!

Bud

I am trying to make 22.5 degree miter cuts on my bar top rail, like the handrail jerrodshook put on his bar. My cuts are not lining up right can anyone tell me how to fix this problem.

The biggest thing I could say is make sure the hand rail is perfectly flat against the back of your mitre saw. Otherwise, if you're cutting it at 22.5 you shouldn't have any problems. If you can, post some pictures of the problem and you'll get lots of advice.

Have a few quick questions for those who have already built. I plan on having a kegerator that will be in the corner of my two tier bar built with kitchen cabs for the lower tier. The way it will sit the tap tower will come up through where the lower counter top will be. I haven't decided on the material yet for the counter top but was wondering if the tap towers are easy to take off. Otherwards can I make a hole in the counter top, remove the tower, roll the kegerator under the counter, line up the hole, and replace the tower? I haven't bought the kegerator yet so I'm not sure how they go together.

Second question is about the brass footrails. How high up do the supports connect to the bar? I want to make sure there is solid frame for them to connect to. Do you find them pretty sturdy or do you wish you would have went with a box type foot rest?

Thanks.

Yes, you can. If the draft arm is already installed on the unit, pop the plastic chromed ring at the base of the draft arm and you will see 4-6 screws that attach it to the kegerator. If you are purchasing a new unit, you have to install it on the kegerator yourself anyway. Saves you a step!

It depends on what type of brass support you choose. Mine are supported a bit by the floor. I am thinking my rail supports are 5-6 inches up the bar. I am going through 3/4 inch plywood and 3/4 in solid oak. Mine are very sturdy. I was going to box my footrest in at first but now I'm glad I went with brass. I've seen some nice bars with box footrests though! Depends on what you like.

I was looking at getting the unit they have at Sam's Club

I don't have brass foot rails but I planned for them. I found a couple that I would like and called the company to confirm what height they would meet the bar front for connection. I then installed blocking and a high enough base molding for them to attach to. You can see the 10" base in my construction photos.

I have the panels built for the front of the bar, we did that last weekend. I also have 9 corbels on hand that I need to stain as well. Should be a productive weekend, assuming it doesn't rain. I want to do my staining outside.

Here's what the front panels an d corbels will look like. The overhang is about 9 inches.

Bud

Couple questions for ya Bud.

So, the front (bar stool side) overhang is roughly ~9"? How about on the back side? 2/3"?

Do you happen to know how the granite people attached/anchored the bar top piece?

Thanks!

My bar is coming together nicely, should have pictures soon. The granite is the next step.

Hey, just saw this (^) post. We've got maybe 1.5" of overlap on the other side, enough to run some track to hold a 1/2" rope light along the inside of the perimeter and have a little bit extra. The granite is held in place with pure silicon. The shear weight will hold it in place, but the silicon gives it some extra bite.

Bud

Not sure if anyone is interested but I was looking at this company for my granite http://www.bedrockcreations.net/

A slab is just way out of my budget. I haven't priced it out yet but will soon.

I did get the 2nd window shelved, just never had a chance to post a pic...

http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/6089/pintshelfsmalljf2.jpg

Also added a floating shelf in the bar to hold some decorations.

http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/3903/shelfsmalllu7.jpg

And lastly for recent upgrades...I built by bar out of vanity (bathroom) cabinets as they were a little narrower (18" v. 24"). But they had no shelving inside them. So I added some recently. Much better organization...

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/7391/2shelfsincabsmallru5.jpg
http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/8953/lastshelfincabsmallds3.jpg

Starting on my bar but have a little situation I'm hoping you guys can help me with. I'm using kitchen base cabinets with a half wall framed for the actual bar. I'll try to scan in my plans and post them but the basic issue is this. Part of the bar/back bar will be against a wall. There is an outlet there that I planned to tap into to run electric to various parts of the bar. I need to build a 6" deep half wall in front of where that outlet is then the cabinets will be against this new wall. Tapping into the electric isn't a problem but according to code I can't cover anykind of electric junction box. The only thing I can think to do is to cut out a big hole in the back of the cabinet and in the 6" half wall. I would hate to do this but not sure what else I could do. Any ideas would be appreciated

Pictures?

Here's a scan of my drawing. The dark areas are the half walls I was referring to. The thicker one on the right shows where the outlet is on the original wall. Sorry graph paper doesn't scan well.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/barplan-1.jpg

Personally , i would remove the wall outlet and put in a covered junction box . Run wires from that to a new outlet . Of course if you want or need to stick with code that probably wouldn't fly . ;)

Personally , i would remove the wall outlet and put in a covered junction box . Run wires from that to a new outlet . Of course if you want or need to stick with code that probably wouldn't fly . ;)


Well that's my issue it wouldn't be code. I think I've figured out what I'm going to do. I'm going to swap the 18" base cabinet and the bev fridge then leave an opening in the drywall in front of the outlet. Since the fridge can be pulled out that should satisfy code.

I finally finished up my bar except for the kegerator. I posted more pics and details in my HT thread, but here's a couple of the pics.

Overall from front
http://lorishookphotography.com/Private/DSC_0451.jpg

From the back
http://lorishookphotography.com/Private/DSC_0201.jpg

The sink area
http://lorishookphotography.com/Private/DSC_0159.jpg

A couple closeups.....
http://lorishookphotography.com/Private/DSC_0169.jpg

http://lorishookphotography.com/Private/DSC_0170.jpg

Jerrod looks great. Have a couple questions. Is that black galaxy granite tile? How do you feel using the wood trim instead of the granite trim tiles? Where did you get that sink and what size is it?

+1

I'm likin' that sink also. Very nice work!

Jerrod looks great. Have a couple questions. Is that black galaxy granite tile? How do you feel using the wood trim instead of the granite trim tiles? Where did you get that sink and what size is it?

I picked it up at Home Depot. It's not too big.... maybe 18-20" wide.

The tile is Black Galaxy and I got that at Lowe's. I have so much wood trim everywhere in the rest of my basement and around the bar so I wanted to stay consistent. Plus, Lowe's didn't have any trim tiles to look at. I found some at a tile store, but they were really expensive. I don't even remember how much but 1 piece cost more than all of the wood trim....

+1

I'm likin' that sink also. Very nice work!

Thanks. It turned out pretty nice. As stated, I just need a kegerator so I can really enjoy all the fruits of my labor!:D:D:D

I picked it up at Home Depot. It's not too big.... maybe 18-20" wide.

The tile is Black Galaxy and I got that at Lowe's. I have so much wood trim everywhere in the rest of my basement and around the bar so I wanted to stay consistent. Plus, Lowe's didn't have any trim tiles to look at. I found some at a tile store, but they were really expensive. I don't even remember how much but 1 piece cost more than all of the wood trim....

I know what you mean about the granite edging. The best price I can find is about $20 per 12" piece. I love the granite edging but each time I think about the cost I go back to wood.

Any issues or tips for cutting out the opening in the granite for the sink?

nice job - i don't see fully stocked liquor shelves though - LOL :p

I know what you mean about the granite edging. The best price I can find is about $20 per 12" piece. I love the granite edging but each time I think about the cost I go back to wood.

Any issues or tips for cutting out the opening in the granite for the sink?

For the sink, my first recommendation is to get a square one. Makes the cuts very simple. Second, take a look at this picture.

http://lorishookphotography.com/Private/DSC_0165.jpg

I placed the granite so the left side ended at the sink, so the only cuts I had to make were on the right side of the sink. It was 2 simple "L" pieces I had to make. No problem at all.

Now, my neighbor just finished a similar project and he had a round copper sink and he a miserable time cutting it. Hard to explain, but he marked the tile and then using his wet saw he just cut a bunch of strips into the granite up to he line. You could say he cut perpendicular to the circle he traced on the tile. Then, he just snapped the thin pieces off. It worked, it just took him a while to do it.

nice job - i don't see fully stocked liquor shelves though - LOL :p

It's under the bar.:) Couldn't risk any damage or breakage while I was tiling.

The shelves on the wall is one of the next things on the list to do.

Well unfortunately I can't have the sink line up like that but I already decided I will do a square sink. I've used that technique for curves when doing tile and it isn't fun.

Did you use 3/4" plywood then backerboard on top of that?

Well unfortunately I can't have the sink line up like that but I already decided I will do a square sink. I've used that technique for curves when doing tile and it isn't fun.

Did you use 3/4" plywood then backerboard on top of that?

I didn't even both with backer board. I just used the OSB and left it at that. I'm sure there are folks that will tell me I should of put more down, I just didn't bother.

I didn't even both with backer board. I just used the OSB and left it at that. I'm sure there are folks that will tell me I should of put more down, I just didn't bother.


Another question for you. What did you use to seal the space between the granite tile and the wood trim?

Has anyone ever used a thin coat of Envirotex applied with a brush to your bar rail instead of poly? Any reason why this wouldn't work to put a little thicker finish on there?

str1der - I didn't use envirotex on my bar rail (just lots of coats of gloss poly), but I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work. Seems like it would be more expensive than Poly though, and you'd have to be careful of how it has a tendency to run/drip.

It might work if you let it set up a bit.....It does run quickly... Maybe wait 5 minutes and test, then maybe 10 minutes....depends on how warm your room is when you pour it too. I'll bet it is comfy too, it's as smooth as silk.

It might work if you let it set up a bit.....It does run quickly... Maybe wait 5 minutes and test, then maybe 10 minutes....depends on how warm your room is when you pour it too. I'll bet it is comfy too, it's as smooth as silk.

I guess I was thinking of applying it like poly with a brush not pouring it.

Some photos of my bar that still has a ways to go...Bar top is copper and will be covered with envirotex. Where is everyone here getting their envirotex from?
http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp239/LSWHO/Websitepics361.jpg
http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp239/LSWHO/Websitepics332.jpg
http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp239/LSWHO/Websitepics358.jpg
http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp239/LSWHO/0924082214b.jpg

Local craft chains (AC Moore & Michaels) are where I got mine. They also regularly run 40% off coupons in the Sunday Newspaper circulars too.

What height are folks using for the bar?

I love the one 2 posts above. Very nice.

Local craft chains (AC Moore & Michaels) are where I got mine. They also regularly run 40% off coupons in the Sunday Newspaper circulars too.

Okay thanks IrmoGamecoq, I will have to look again, the 2 Michael stores I went to only carried a small amount of envirotex, I need much more than they have and thought it would be cheaper buying it in bulk.

Yeah, I think the largest size they carried for me was the half(?) gallon. I just bought several bottles of the largest size (of course, using a different coupon each time).

I got my gallon sizes here http://www.jerrysartarama.com/discount-art-supplies/Acrylic-Paints-and-Mediums/Envirotex-Lite-Acrylic-Coating.htm

I got my gallon sizes here http://www.jerrysartarama.com/discount-art-supplies/Acrylic-Paints-and-Mediums/Envirotex-Lite-Acrylic-Coating.htm

Thanks Heynow...that price is the lowest I've seen so far for a gallon. How much did it take to do your bar top?

I used 96 oz on the first pour. I then tried to clean up a mishap that I had with 32 oz. after the initial pour set up. It didn't work out, so I ordered another gallon and I am going to pour another 96 oz. soon. If I had not screwed up the initial pour, I would have been okay with one 96 oz. pour. My bar is about 7'X4'X16".

My bar top is approx. 20" wide x 16 ft. long - i used about 1 1/2 gallons
and got full coverage of at least 1/8" . I think so long as your bartop is very level this would be plenty .
You could always ask Micheals if they could order a gallon size .

My bar top is approx. 20" wide x 16 ft. long - i used about 1 1/2 gallons
and got full coverage of at least 1/8" . I think so long as your bartop is very level this would be plenty .
You could always ask Micheals if they could order a gallon size .

Thanks guys that helps - I am more similar to malbols with about 16 ft in length x 15 1/4 wide. What did you use to spread it? I have read foam brushes, business cards, cardboard, plastic spatula? I read to start in a circular motion starting from end to center, is that what you did?

Okay, first off, don't use a foam brush.....too much thingys left behind. As Irmo says, go to the dollar store and buy a plastic cake icing spatula. Shaped like this;

_________/====

I began standing inside my bar (bartender's view) poured against the bar rail and pulled it towards me. Others may have different experiences.

EDIT; oh, and don't forget to make a dust cover FIRST so you can make certain you minimize dust settling on that perfect surface you just poured.

great ascii drawing

Okay, first off, don't use a foam brush.....too much thingys left behind. As Irmo says, go to the dollar store and buy a plastic cake icing spatula. Shaped like this;

_________/====

I began standing inside my bar (bartender's view) poured against the bar rail and pulled it towards me. Others may have different experiences.

EDIT; oh, and don't forget to make a dust cover FIRST so you can make certain you minimize dust settling on that perfect surface you just poured.

Okay thanks Randy.... I will be starting this weekend with just a very thin coat on the bar rail itself to seal the oak (per envirotex) then I'll be ordering the rest and hopefully getting it done in the next week or two.

Some photos of my bar that still has a ways to go...Bar top is copper and will be covered with envirotex. Where is everyone here getting their envirotex from?
http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp239/LSWHO/Websitepics358.jpg


That copper is awesome! I like the look of that a LOT better then the granite tiles I got. That is a great, great look. I might have to think about changing. Where did you get the copper? On line? I assume once you pour the envirotex it is a perfectly smooth top?

I agree, can you imagine what it will look like once it's poured? It is going to have such depth. My top is ten times better looking with the enviortex. I can't wait to see the results from Dennis' pour. I think this bar is going to raise the "bar" for bar builds....

I agree, can you imagine what it will look like once it's poured? It is going to have such depth. My top is ten times better looking with the enviortex. I can't wait to see the results from Dennis' pour. I think this bar is going to raise the "bar" for bar builds....

Thanks Randy but I had nothing but problems this weekend...I tried the Envirotex on a cigar box that I had and some shelves (just extra stuff) to try and get familiar with the envirotex. I thought I had a pretty good idea of how it was so I tried the bar rail.....what a mess. I don't even know where to start. First off per envirotex I was told to put down a seal coat because of the oak. I put down a very thin layer following the directions to a T. Well I should have known this wasn't going to work when it was bubbling like crazy per the directions you shouldn't use a propane torch on a seal coat so I just had a blow dryer and my breath, but when you have a 32 oz already mixed you can't really try and see what's going on otherwise you'll end up wasting it. So I continued....it has for lack of a better term "circles" all over it. almost like it didn't adhear to the wood or something? At the same time I did the drip rail also and this turned out perfect. I used the same method for the both so I don't think it was not sanded or wiped down enough or anything like that. (I sanded all of the bar with 100 then 150 then 220 then 320 then 420 then wiped it all down with tack cloth 2 times. I am not sure what happened but just a little frustrated at this point. Why couldn't it be the drip rail that sucked I could have hid that alot easier than the main view - the bar rail....I think the angle of the bar rail had something to do with it but not 100%.

That copper is awesome! I like the look of that a LOT better then the granite tiles I got. That is a great, great look. I might have to think about changing. Where did you get the copper? On line? I assume once you pour the envirotex it is a perfectly smooth top?

Thanks Sdallnct,
I purchased the copper in a rolled up sheet online from Storm Copper - google it for their site & prices (free shipping and cheapest price is why I choose them). 15" x 16ft of .10 thick copper sheeting. I then covered particle board in three sections (I wouldn't use particle board again - I would use either MDF or cabinet grade plywood) I covered it with contact cement from DAP that is for metal (red can) and folded over the sides (I would have done it different maybe used a flush end router on it and not folder it over, you can get a much cleaner look by cutting the edge rather than folding it) I then took a drill with a steel brush attatchment and proceeded to make the circular markings you see. This gives it the depth almost 3D. I then sealed it with a stuff called copper shield from a spray can (also from storm copper) to seal in the nice shiny color (I didn't want it to patina or turn colors overtime, just personal preference) I do plan on using the envirotex for the top of the bar but currently having problems with the envirotex on the bar rail so it is selayed until I can get it straightend up.

I was afraid of that. The Etex runs like crazy on anything but a flat surface. If you put on a coat of sealer, I would think it would act like poly and the Etex would roll off like water on an oil surface. That's why I mentioned to let it set up a bit to thicken. I'm sorry to here of your problems, but everyone around here has a problem occaisionaly. Don't get discouraged, you will get it worked out.

The good news is you can pour more to make up the mistake.

I still have to pour another coat on my top to fix my screw ups. Keep your chin up, Dennis!

I was afraid of that. The Etex runs like crazy on anything but a flat surface. If you put on a coat of sealer, I would think it would act like poly and the Etex would roll off like water on an oil surface. That's why I mentioned to let it set up a bit to thicken. I'm sorry to here of your problems, but everyone around here has a problem occaisionaly. Don't get discouraged, you will get it worked out.

The good news is you can pour more to make up the mistake.

I still have to pour another coat on my top to fix my screw ups. Keep your chin up, Dennis!


Randy, heres some pics, i'll post more on my thread.
http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp239/LSWHO/Basement114.jpg

http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp239/LSWHO/Basement119.jpg

For the sink, my first recommendation is to get a square one. Makes the cuts very simple. Second, take a look at this picture.

http://lorishookphotography.com/Private/DSC_0165.jpg

I placed the granite so the left side ended at the sink, so the only cuts I had to make were on the right side of the sink. It was 2 simple "L" pieces I had to make. No problem at all.

Now, my neighbor just finished a similar project and he had a round copper sink and he a miserable time cutting it. Hard to explain, but he marked the tile and then using his wet saw he just cut a bunch of strips into the granite up to he line. You could say he cut perpendicular to the circle he traced on the tile. Then, he just snapped the thin pieces off. It worked, it just took him a while to do it.

Jerrod I have a question about your sink allignment. I see how you moved the sink next to a tile edge to simplify cutting and I'm thinking now that I will be able to do the same thing. Can you tell me how did you do the grout where the sink meets up to the tile edge? What did you use to attach the sink to granite top? I think I'm going to pick up the same sink.

Thanks Sdallnct,
I purchased the copper in a rolled up sheet online from Storm Copper - google it for their site & prices (free shipping and cheapest price is why I choose them). 15" x 16ft of .10 thick copper sheeting. I then covered particle board in three sections (I wouldn't use particle board again - I would use either MDF or cabinet grade plywood) I covered it with contact cement from DAP that is for metal (red can) and folded over the sides (I would have done it different maybe used a flush end router on it and not folder it over, you can get a much cleaner look by cutting the edge rather than folding it) I then took a drill with a steel brush attatchment and proceeded to make the circular markings you see. This gives it the depth almost 3D. I then sealed it with a stuff called copper shield from a spray can (also from storm copper) to seal in the nice shiny color (I didn't want it to patina or turn colors overtime, just personal preference) I do plan on using the envirotex for the top of the bar but currently having problems with the envirotex on the bar rail so it is selayed until I can get it straightend up.


I could not find the copper sheeting in .10 on the site you listed. also did you order it in the sheet or the copper foil roll. I can't wait to see more pics of this. Absolutely amazing!

I could not find the copper sheeting in .10 on the site you listed. also did you order it in the sheet or the copper foil roll. I can't wait to see more pics of this. Absolutely amazing!


Marcus, I detailed it more in a PM to you but it was listed on their site as a Copper Foil Roll at .10 thickness - 30 gauge. It came rolled up. I have some more photos on my thread (just click on it in my signature section)
thanks,
Dennis

Dennis, thanks so much for the pm. Once again I must say your's came out amazing. Hope mine comes out half as good, now if I could just get started!

hahaha,

Have an Envirotex question. I bought a gallon kit that covers 32 sqft. I assume it's at 1/8" but not sure. I have a bar surface that's about 16.6 sqft (roughly 10' X 20"). Question is should I mix the whole thing and do a single pour or should I do half of it and do two pours? Am I correct that the coverage is based on 1/8" thick?

Yes, 1/8 ince PER POUR. Build it up in several layers. My top is about 16" inches wide incuding the drip tray. 7 feet plus 4 feet = 11 feet X 16 inches wide. I mixed a combined 96 oz for my first pour (48 oz of each part) and it was plenty.

Yes, 1/8 ince PER POUR. Build it up in several layers. My top is about 16" inches wide incuding the drip tray. 7 feet plus 4 feet = 11 feet X 16 inches wide. I mixed a combined 96 oz for my first pour (48 oz of each part) and it was plenty.



So how thick did most people go? Is 1/8" enough or should you do 1/4"?

I think your only limitation is how you have the bar top dammed up. Since it will seek its own level you could build up the sides to hold as much as you want. The instructions recommend 1/8. Perhaps its because it would take a longer time to cure.... I dunno.

Well I did my pour and ran into an issue. I took your advice and sealed the cracks/spaces between the top and the rail/trim with clear silicone. Unfortunately what I feared would happen did. Where ever there was silicone the envirotex was repelled. Not blaming you just want to warn people. I've got a call into the company asking for advice. I'll let you know what the say. I don't know if there is something I can do to the silicone so that it takes. I used a pretty hefty pour 96 oz so I don't think that was the issue.

Hmmmm...interesting....didn't happen to me.

Well they told me I can try to use some poly or maybe clear fingernail polish to put a seal coat over the silicone. Then try to put more Envirotex over the area.