Do you have any pictures to show us?

Do you have any pictures to show us?

I'll try to take a few tonight when I get home. I'm going to stop and pick up some nail polish on the way home. I'll probably need to get some more Envirotex also.

You don't have to do your nails before the second pour of EnviroTex :)

:D Good one, Randy.

I would've thought that enough E-tex would "overpower" whatever repellant the silicone provided...that is strange.

Funny.

:D Good one, Randy.

I would've thought that enough E-tex would "overpower" whatever repellant the silicone provided...that is strange.

I only had a small bead between the rail and top. Maybe he/she had too much silicone, I dunno. Maybe I poured enough Etex on and it leveled out and could not repel the Etex.

I only had a small bead between the rail and top. Maybe he/she had too much silicone, I dunno. Maybe I poured enough Etex on and it leveled out and could not repel the Etex.

He (Ken) by the way. Basically I applied it just like you would caulk. I put a bead in all the seams then used my finger to smooth it out. Obviously when smoothing it out it spread out a little. These are the areas that are repelling. From the reading I've done since, just about nothing will stick to silicone and it's about impossible to remove chemically. You pretty much have to use abbrasion to get rid of it. Even when removed it still tends to leave a film. I also read that another thing that can be used as a seal coat over the silicone would be contact cement. Wish me luck.

Another bit of advice I would impart is not to use Maple. This has to be some of the hardest wood I've ever tried to stain. It just didn't want to take it well.

Sorry to hear of your difficulites, Ken. Keep at it!

I'm willing to bet another coat of e-tex will cover that right up. It doesn't matter how much it tries to "repel" it...gravity will over power it.

P.S. I'm pretty sure my e-tex is at least 1/4" thick on my bar.

P.S. I'm pretty sure my e-tex is at least 1/4" thick on my bar.

yeah...and it's real purdy too.... :)

Any advice on creating a tent over the envirotex while it dries? I tried all kinds of things using a plastic drop cloth but was never confident enough that it wouldn't accidently fall and ruin my top. I guess something as large as a bartop isn't your typical pour. I did turn off all the fans and blowers in the house but there was still a spec here and there that left little imperfections.

yeah...and it's real purdy too.... :)

Hey, thanks!

I should've probably pointed out in case y'all don't remember my thread on this, but I had to do 2 pours on mine because the e-tex leaked down through the gaps in my wood flooring...that's one of the reasons my pour was so thick.

Any advice on creating a tent over the envirotex while it dries? I tried all kinds of things using a plastic drop cloth but was never confident enough that it wouldn't accidently fall and ruin my top. I guess something as large as a bartop isn't your typical pour. I did turn off all the fans and blowers in the house but there was still a spec here and there that left little imperfections.

I didn't do the tent thing myself, but I'd imagine you'd need to set that sort of thing up *before* you pour...otherwise, the act of setting it up would stir up the very dust you're trying to prevent.

Yepper, I was stupid enough to try to set my tent up after about an hour or so and a few beers....dumbass move.... After a couple of hours Etex is the consistency of warm peanut butter and when it lifts up and sticks to the plactic it makes nice 3D mountains on the top!

Can you run a clothes line across the room and drape plastic over that? Let me know what you do, so I can copy it for my final pour :)

Yepper, I was stupid enough to try to set my tent up after about an hour or so and a few beers....dumbass move.... After a couple of hours Etex is the consistency of warm peanut butter and when it lifts up and sticks to the plactic it makes nice 3D mountains on the top!

Can you run a clothes line across the room and drape plastic over that? Let me know what you do, so I can copy it for my final pour :)

I tried setting something up before but just couldn't get it to work. Like you I have an angle in my bar which makes the clothes line type setup difficult to pull off. I tried attaching a big plastic drop cloth to the walls using tape but it's just to long of a run to keep it from drooping.

Then I would just forgetaboutit....and hope for the best.

Then I would just forgetaboutit....and hope for the best.

You sound like you're from Jersey "forgetaboutit" :)

My pour had those same little imperfections. After using the blow torch to release most of the bubbles, I honestly think that those random imperfections are air bubbles that worked their way to the surface after it began to set up and couldn't quite "pop".

My pour had those same little imperfections. After using the blow torch to release most of the bubbles, I honestly think that those random imperfections are air bubbles that worked their way to the surface after it began to set up and couldn't quite "pop".


Did they look like little dents about the size of a dime? You only see them if you're looking from an angle that is reflecting the light.

Yes, you will find small imperfections in your pour that your guests will never ever notice.

Yes, you will find small imperfections in your pour that your guests will never ever notice.

I guess since it's so smooth the imperfections really stand out.

I just need to get this part done so I can move on to doing my granite coutertops. I found a great place to get the Benissimo granite system http://www.benissimosystems.com/default.aspx

The place I bought it from only charged me around $650 for 32sqft of counter and $150 of that was for shipping.

Any advice on creating a tent over the envirotex while it dries? I tried all kinds of things using a plastic drop cloth but was never confident enough that it wouldn't accidently fall and ruin my top. I guess something as large as a bartop isn't your typical pour. I did turn off all the fans and blowers in the house but there was still a spec here and there that left little imperfections.

I really wouldnt worry about a tent. I just covered my vents and left my fan off and didnt have any problems from dust. I also helped a friend do his, same thing no problems.

I wish I would have realized that know one had posted about the silicone repelling. I had read this on another site and would have mentioned it. Thats why I used wood putty to fill in my cracks before pouring. (Not that the enviro still didnt find some cracks and leak through)

Yep- i didn't tent mine either, just vaccuumed before and turned off furnace etc. No probs.
I filled my gaps with white glue - dried clear - worked great with the Envirotex

Well I haven't tried the fix yet but I did try to take a few pics. Unfortunately they didn't come out very good. Also here's a pic of my current progress.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_1900.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_1902.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_1903.jpg

Really a nice job Str1der- that's really got to piss you off about the silicone though .

Really a nice job Str1der- that's really got to piss you off about the silicone though .


Thanks. I think it will eventualy work out just going to take some extra work.

So far we're batting a thousand on the E-tex repours here at AVS (myself, Randy, and you) so I wouldn't worry about it.

Look on the brightside and think how thick and glossy it's going to look when finished. ;)

really great job strider

Well just poured the second coat. I'll be going back in about 5 minutes to do some bubble popping

Well second coat covered over the areas that didn't cover before. I used clear fingernail polis to go over the silicone before pouring. Unfortunatley a couple other areas that didn't have an issue before cropped up this time. Don't know if I'm going to do a third coat or not. I think the fumes are starting to make me a little loopy.

I had used silicone in select spots and not over the entire bar. I had used the silicone after the 1st pour to seal up the large holes that weren't getting filled. My 2nd pour covered them up with no problems but then I didn't spread it out like you had.

If you review my 'Coat Bar Top' thread you can see pics where the E-tex didn't cover select areas on my initial pour. I never found out why. Luckily the second pour took care of them.

My silicon wasn't near the top but more down in the crack. I hope your next pour works. BTW, my top is about 3/16" average.

If you have to lightly sand the top to get rid of the silicon I think you will be alright. I had a couple of large bubbles on my first pour and I was able to sand off the top of them and fill them in on the second pour. No matter how hard you look, you can not see any of the bubble impressions or scratches from the sandpaper.

Edit - Just realized I missed all of today's posts. Really like the look of your bar especially the rear tray. I had some dime size impressions on my first pour that might be a similar thing. I just think you need to really put it on thick next time. Too thin will create a lot of problems. E-tex needs to flow and level itself out. I had a lot of dust in my basement but never had an issue with it so I wouldn't worry about the tent idea. Don't wait to use the torch to get rid of bubbles - act on it right away and work it for as long as you can. Just make sure you are more than 12" away from the surface or you will scorch it creating even more problems.

One other thing I found out also. The recommendation is that you mix equal parts in a container and then transfer to another container. I assume that by doing this you will make certain everything in the bottom of the container gets mixed correctly. In my first container, I still have Etex that did not set up on the very bottom.

One other thing I found out also. The recommendation is that you mix equal parts in a container and then transfer to another container. I assume that by doing this you will make certain everything in the bottom of the container gets mixed correctly. In my first container, I still have Etex that did not set up on the very bottom.

I read that also but didn't do it. I did mix very well and really scrapped the sides and bottom while doing it. I'm going to make one final pour of 96 oz. and then thats it. This time I will do the two bucket method though.

Good luck! Hope this is the final pour.

Neuner reminded me of the fact that I sandpapered the e-tex between coats (per the instructions) and he's right, you'd never know it by looking. It filled in all the little scratches perfectly.

That's good to know, I need to sand down some high spots from my screw up.

Well I haven't tried the fix yet but I did try to take a few pics. Unfortunately they didn't come out very good. Also here's a pic of my current progress.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_1900.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_1902.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_1903.jpg

str1der,

Sorry I haven't replied sooner to this pic message...couldn't see your pics at work.. That is some very nice work!

Thanks Randy. Have a long way to go. I would really like a back bar like yours but not sure I know how to build it.

Back bars are easier to build than the bar itself! Build a box and hang it on the wall like a cabinet. Trim it up and it's done.

str1der

I went different on the back bar as you can see in the pics. My favorite was the lighted Liquour shelfs, that cost me next to nothing to build. The most expensive part was the 12 dollar florescent fixture under it.

Since my wife and I love to watch football at the bar, having the tv in the back was important to us.

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii223/Tony_M_photos/Bar%20Construction/DSC_00403.jpg

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii223/Tony_M_photos/Bar%20Construction/DSC_00224-1.jpg

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii223/Tony_M_photos/Bar%20Construction/DSC_00244.jpg

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii223/Tony_M_photos/Bar%20Construction/DSC_0022-1.jpg

I really like that lighted shelving....simple and effective. Nice work.

Back bars are easier to build than the bar itself! Build a box and hang it on the wall like a cabinet. Trim it up and it's done.

True-- however, when I did mine, I made a fundimental error regarding the overhang of the shelf on the base cabinet that made me have to fudge the face frame. Nobody notices it except me. Which is every time I sit at my bar.

Man-- the easiest part of the whole bar and I screw it up. I always say, "make a drawing before building anything, no matter how small," but what happens when I ignore my own advice? I screw it up. Hubris and ate.

Yes I really like that lighted shelf. I've seen similar things for displaying tap handles.

strider can you go back to playing shuffleboard instead of building this kick ass bar table

strider can you go back to playing shuffleboard instead of building this kick ass bar table


Thanks for the complement. Wish I could play some shuffleboard. I'm kinda under the gun to get the majority of the bar finished for our Halloween/ Birthday party. I haven't been able to play shuffleboard for a long time. It seems like I'm always working on a project and never have the time to actually enjoy the fruits of my labor.

Back bars are easier to build than the bar itself! Build a box and hang it on the wall like a cabinet. Trim it up and it's done.

Randy,

How did you do the mirror? What holds it in? Is there a back to the box and then the mirro is attached to it?

Str1der,

The mirror is simply 36X48 beveled stock mirror from Lowes. I dropped the mirror into a U shaped silver channel at the bottom that you get from Lowes in the same aisle. I then put two clear clips at the top side of the mirror and screwed them to the wall. You have to look hard to see any of it.

I wanted to be able to disassemble the back bar if needed and not have to worry about the mirror. Each element can stand alone. I just can't get over my nomadic military ways from years past. I seem to do things that I can undo quickly.

So you just built the back bar frame around the mirror? For the shelves did you have some kind of jig to do the holes for the shelves? Did you just use cabinet grade plywood then use trim on the front?

By the way I did my final pour on the bartop last night and it came out pretty good. I did end up with a couple very small dimples that I guess came from air bubbles. I kept going back and checking about every 10 minutes for an hour for new bubbles but these must have surfaced quite a bit later. I am going to do one more pour in my beer gutter though. I wanted as much as possible on the top so I really didn't pread it into the gutter.

Tonight I'll be attaching my backerboard to my plywood in preperation to do my granite tile.

Actually, there is about 3/8 of an inch around the mirror so I can remove it if I throw something at it and break it. :) Yes, I used a jig for positioning the holes, I got it from Rockler. I could have used plywood, but I use 1X6 solid oak! I then trimmed it out.

Looking for an opinion on the back bar. If you look at the pic of my bar on the previous page you'll see the little halfwall/ledge back there. It's about 6-8" deep. Do you think I should have the back bar rest on there or should I elevate it above that shelf?

How high off the floor is it?

How high off the floor is it?

It's the same height as the bar top. Actually the bar top sits on that wall on that end.

I will throw my bar back up incase it helps.

http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo114/cinemaandbrew/IMG_0267.jpg

I did it similar to Randy, I hung the mirror with clips, and then I hung a shelf below the mirror. Built two boxes of equal size to hang on each side of the mirror and just placed them on the shelf. Put another board across the top. I screwed the top of the boxes into the studs for support. Then I put up some trim, mostly to keep any bottles from sliding off, but it was also a bit decorative and covered the bottom of the boxes so you don't see the bottom of the box setting on top of the shelf. It turned out to be the simplest part of the bar area and really changes the feel of bar than anything.

great

Thanks Kavh. This definetly gives me some more ideas. How deep is it?

Well I got the granite tiles installed today. Spent about 8 hours straight working on it. Also got my brass footrail installed. Man I'm beat.

Thanks Kavh. This definetly gives me some more ideas. How deep is it?

Well I got the granite tiles installed today. Spent about 8 hours straight working on it. Also got my brass footrail installed. Man I'm beat.

I used 1X6 to construct the bottom shelf and the boxes. So 5 and a half inches. The back plywood is just quarter inch.

Well made some more progress. Here's a few updated pics

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_1904.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_1905.jpg


http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_1906.jpg


http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_1907.jpg

Well made some more progress. Here's a few updated pics



Looking good!!!

I think we have the same sink man. :D

That, Ladies and Gentlemen, is how you do a bar! Nice work!

Looking good!!!

I think we have the same sink man. :D

I told you I really liked yours. I just wanted something that would go with the black granite.

That, Ladies and Gentlemen, is how you do a bar! Nice work!


Thanks Randy appreciate the kind words. Still have a few things to do. I just did the backsplash today so I still have to grout it and put some trim along the top edge where it meets the wood shelf. Then I need to drill a hole in the granite for my kegerator tower. As you can tell I originally was doing something different so I had the white electrical outlets. Haven't had a chance to change them out for black ones.

I think I'm going to take a little breather and regroup before doing the back bar

I always forget this thread is here.:o Some nice builds in here


Str1der nice work. I am still too chicken to pour my top. I am thinking of getting Randy's number and have him talk me thru it. In case I mess it up I can blame him.;)

That, Ladies and Gentlemen, is how you do a bar! Nice work!

Thanks for calling me gentleman

I always forget this thread is here.:o Some nice builds in here


Str1der nice work. I am still too chicken to pour my top. I am thinking of getting Randy's number and have him talk me thru it. In case I mess it up I can blame him.;)

It took me 3 pours to get it right. A big pour then small then finally another big pour. I did end up devising a way to make a tent over it and it kept out most of the dust.

strider can i hire you to make a bar for me in ohio

strider can i hire you to make a bar for me in ohio

Please tell me you're joking.

I am still too chicken to pour my top. I am thinking of getting Randy's number and have him talk me thru it. In case I mess it up I can blame him.;)

I poured mine in one go - no problems at all . Don't be scared :D

Well made some more progress. Here's a few updated pics


http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_1905.jpg

Str1der - what kind of beverage center (under counter) is that? And is it staying cold enough for you liking? I am looking at putting the same type under my back bar but there have been mixed reviews on whether or not the beverage center types of coolers/fridges keep the brewski's cold enough.

Everything looks Awesome! I may ask for your and Randy's support when pouring my e-tex top!

Thanks.

They also look better with lots of bottles on them.

:)



I really like that lighted shelving....simple and effective. Nice work.

Str1der

The bar is looking better! Good job on the finish.

Here's the fridge (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=278631-68363-WBC127BLS&lpage=none). It works ok but haven't really used it much. The temp setting goes down to 43 degrees. Not ice cold but does the job. I think I got it on sale for $189.


Plus it's got such a cool blue light. :)

we'll only tak eit for $100

Here's the fridge (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=278631-68363-WBC127BLS&lpage=none). It works ok but haven't really used it much. The temp setting goes down to 43 degrees. Not ice cold but does the job. I think I got it on sale for $189.


Plus it's got such a cool blue light. :)

I use a beverage center I picked up from Sams. You can see it in my photos. It works great.

But I agree...if you drink clear beer and want it "ice cold" mine really doesn't do that either. Good quality beer should not be served ice cold and so that 40-45 range is perfect. That is what I have in the bar for my beers. Then in the garage I have a regular refrigerator I picked up used that I keep *gulp* Coors light and my wife Mich Ultra.

But for example, pull out a Fat Tire (my house beer) or Old Speckled Hen (pub can), maybe a Rouge, and of course a standard Guinness (pub can) and pour in a pint glass, let it set a minute or two, it is PERFECT.

When I have parties and I know I have friends who just won't drink anything but clear beer I sometimes just set a small cooler full of Coors Light and Miller Light on ice in the cooler.

Well I got the bar finished and kegerator installed (not counting the back bar) and it was a big hit at the party Saturday. Here's some new pics.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_1934.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_1935.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_1936.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_1937.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_1938.jpg

Nice job.

Realy nice job on that. Came out great. I wish my Envirotex was done.... I'm almost too afraid to do it and mess it up.

BTW, can you list the model of kegerator you have there. I think that one would work well for me based on your pics.

dang awesome job now play shuffleboard

Realy nice job on that. Came out great. I wish my Envirotex was done.... I'm almost too afraid to do it and mess it up.

BTW, can you list the model of kegerator you have there. I think that one would work well for me based on your pics.

Thanks. Here's the one I bought. http://www.micromatic.com/keg-refrigerators/kegerators-pid-SBC490BI.html . Check out the forum there for great advise. I went with the undercounter model because I didn't want to risk over heating.

dang awesome job now play shuffleboard


Actually I did play a little last weekend. I really want to get an electronic scoreboard but need to wait until I recover from the money I spent on the bar. :D

ask Todd for his cheaper scoreboard, i think it runs $350-400 I forgot - might be less. I have it. I'll take a pic later today.

We are building a home bar and not sure what the back of the front bar cabinet should look like since we want to put an ice maker, double sink with draining counters, dishwasher, and beer meister in there. We have a U-shaped wall in place with plumbing and electrical. The back bar will house trash compactor, shelving, and 5' horizontal refrigerator. All of the bar plans I have seen have shelving in the front bar cabinet.

dang how can pepole afford that in these down economic times

We are building a home bar and not sure what the back of the front bar cabinet should look like since we want to put an ice maker, double sink with draining counters, dishwasher, and beer meister in there. We have a U-shaped wall in place with plumbing and electrical. The back bar will house trash compactor, shelving, and 5' horizontal refrigerator. All of the bar plans I have seen have shelving in the front bar cabinet.

I guess if you're looking to do that many "appliances" I would definetely use kitchen base cabinets like I did. It will make life a lot easier than trying to do it from scratch. Just be on the look out for cabinet deals. I got mine from a local builders warehouse.

dang how can pepole afford that in these down economic times


Don't want to hear it. I know what you paid for your shuffleboard table. :p

That was before the economic crisis

Finally got a chance to see your pics and your bar looks phenomenal, Str1der. Nice work!

Thanks for the info. Str1der. By the way, your bar really looks nice. I hope ours will turn out as well.

It will jacqualynn!

Finally got a chance to see your pics and your bar looks phenomenal, Str1der. Nice work!


Thanks. It was a lot of work but worth it. Couldn't have done it without all the help here.

Thanks for the info. Str1der. By the way, your bar really looks nice. I hope ours will turn out as well.

Just take your time and feel free to ask questions here.

Thanks. Here's the one I bought. http://www.micromatic.com/keg-refrigerators/kegerators-pid-SBC490BI.html . Check out the forum there for great advise. I went with the undercounter model because I didn't want to risk over heating.

Thanks. Did you make any modifications to this before putting it in? I know the tower is supposed to attach to the kegerator itself, but you have it on your bar top.... just like I want. I guess it's easy, just curious if you took any pics while you did this?

Thanks. Did you make any modifications to this before putting it in? I know the tower is supposed to attach to the kegerator itself, but you have it on your bar top.... just like I want. I guess it's easy, just curious if you took any pics while you did this?

Well I still have a couple modifications to make. I'm going to put a blower inside to keep the tower cool. I'm also going to move the temp sensor a little further away from the cold plate so that I can get it just a little colder.

As far as the tower goes it wasn't to hard. Since I used kitchen cabinets there is only about an inch between the underside of the counter and the top of the kegerator. When I enlarge the hole for the blower tube I'll put a 2" PVC between the two. Right now I simply put a piece of pipe insullation there.

Probably the hardest part was trying to cut a hole and drill screw holes in the granite. I just ordered a 2.5" diamond hole saw off ebay. I only had a 1" when it came in but that was big enough to cut the hole for my beer line.

Looks cool! I take it the envirotex finally turned out alright? I really like the backsplash tile.

Looks cool! I take it the envirotex finally turned out alright? I really like the backsplash tile.

Yes the envirotex finally took right. I used clear fingernail polish to go over the silicone that I had put in the cracks and poured a very heavy coat. I think the heavy coat is the key. It doesn't pay to skimp on the pour. Also it made a huge difference coming up with a way to tent the area. Kept almost all the little dust particles that were floating around off the surface.

Yes the envirotex finally took right. I used clear fingernail polish to go over the silicone that I had put in the cracks and poured a very heavy coat. I think the heavy coat is the key. It doesn't pay to skimp on the pour. Also it made a huge difference coming up with a way to tent the area. Kept almost all the little dust particles that were floating around off the surface.

Can you explain how you did the tent for the area?

:)

And I agree with the above, NICE JOB!

I am just setting up my ideas/plans on my bar. My question now is....the bar rail like those from Rockler etc. How do they install to your bar top? Shhould the top be even at the edge? What is the trick to installing these rails? They give possibly the best look out. Please help.

P.S. you will be hearing ALOT more from me as I havent even begun yet. Bear with me as I am a rookie

Can you explain how you did the tent for the area?

:)

And I agree with the above, NICE JOB!


Basically what I did was run two clothes lines from one wall to the other. One a little in front of the bar and the other a little behind. I then draped a thin plastic drop cloth over the whole thing.

Kind of off topic but i am new here.....When I leave AVSforums. How can i then comeback and find these pages? I tried to open a new window and go to avsforums.com and find these bar plan forums with no luck and i need to go to bed soon as I have been reading them for literally 7-8hrs now

Once you are at this page http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=574277
- add it to your favourites .
When you come to the site on the right hand side - 1/2 way down your screen you'll see page #'s - just click on the word last .
P.S. - i believe they sell the rails at home depot etc. - they should be able to cut you a 6" pc. so you can check it out - see what you need etc. And keep reading - LOL

I am just setting up my ideas/plans on my bar. My question now is....the bar rail like those from Rockler etc. How do they install to your bar top? Shhould the top be even at the edge? What is the trick to installing these rails? They give possibly the best look out. Please help.

P.S. you will be hearing ALOT more from me as I havent even begun yet. Bear with me as I am a rookie


Steve,

Look at post #29 in my build thread and you will see a cutaway of how I installed the bar railing. That is just one version. Lots of folks around here can also give you their examples.

Good luck.

Steve,

Look at post #29 in my build thread and you will see a cutaway of how I installed the bar railing. That is just one version. Lots of folks around here can also give you their examples.

Good luck.

As soon as I learn to navigate this site I MIGHT be able to find your thread..lol. Man I am seeing stars after starring at this site for about 10 straight hours last night.

Once you are at this page http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=574277
- add it to your favourites .
When you come to the site on the right hand side - 1/2 way down your screen you'll see page #'s - just click on the word last .
P.S. - i believe they sell the rails at home depot etc. - they should be able to cut you a 6" pc. so you can check it out - see what you need etc. And keep reading - LOL

Thanks for helping the ignorant newbie. I will check HD and see what they have. I wonder if places like Rockler or the place Heynow was speaking of would send a sample peice? hmm. And as far as reading I plan on doing ALOT of that.

Edit
Just checked homedepot dot com and didnt see the bar rails. That would of been to easy..lol

Look at McDaniels web site they will show a profile and it's measurment (I think).

READ Steve READ :) click on the link at the bottom of this message MY BAR BUILD

Iusteve welcome to AVS. Most people who have a theater or bar build thread of their own on here put a link in their signature line which will show up at the bottom of there post. Before building my room I looked through many pages to get ideas and to pick up some tips. I found lots of help here.

Iusteve welcome to AVS. Most people who have a theater or bar build thread of their own on here put a link in their signature line which will show up at the bottom of there post. Before building my room I looked through many pages to get ideas and to pick up some tips. I found lots of help here.

Thanks for the tip, I will do when I am ready to start. I did however see part of your thread and from what I saw it is spectacular. Great work!!

I am just setting up my ideas/plans on my bar. My question now is....the bar rail like those from Rockler etc. How do they install to your bar top? Shhould the top be even at the edge? What is the trick to installing these rails? They give possibly the best look out. Please help.

P.S. you will be hearing ALOT more from me as I haven't even begun yet. Bear with me as I am a rookie

While the rail is really nice, don't think you have to do that. If you look back at my build, you will see I just did a straight piece of molding.

Don't get me wrong, the rail is awesome, but just didn't want you to get locked in with something you might not be comfortable with. I didn't do the traditional rail for a couple of reason;

1. as a beginner I didn't know if I had the skill to install it. Or how long it would take me to do.
2. I was on a tight budget, and simply didn't want to spend the money
3. I really wanted to keep the bar size proportional to the room. Not only in physical size, but also is appearance. So I wanted a "smaller" look.
4. and lastly and perhaps most importantly, my buddy came into town unannounced for work and I wanted him to help me. So we had a day to plan, a day to shop and about 2 days build as much as we could. And doing the formal rail was really just not something we planned for...LOL

While the rail is really nice, don't think you have to do that. If you look back at my build, you will see I just did a straight piece of molding.

Don't get me wrong, the rail is awesome, but just didn't want you to get locked in with something you might not be comfortable with. I didn't do the traditional rail for a couple of reason;

1. as a beginner I didn't know if I had the skill to install it. Or how long it would take me to do.
2. I was on a tight budget, and simply didn't want to spend the money
3. I really wanted to keep the bar size proportional to the room. Not only in physical size, but also is appearance. So I wanted a "smaller" look.
4. and lastly and perhaps most importantly, my buddy came into town unannounced for work and I wanted him to help me. So we had a day to plan, a day to shop and about 2 days build as much as we could. And doing the formal rail was really just not something we planned for...LOL


Thanks for the help, all great tips. I am unsure if I want to do the railing as I am a novice carpenter but I like the rails appearance. The biggest problem as I am basically planning an 8ft straight bar is that I will have to make one angle cut on the rail to make a peice on the end of the bar and that scares me a bit since I know the stuff is expensive and I dont want to mess it up. Also installing it since I am a novice kind of worries me a bit. I am just not totally sure how to build up the top to so that the rail sits on there right. But hopefully I will get it all figured out, my thing is I always wasnt ALL the answers before I start a project and most of the time that just isnt the way it works. So I may just have to jump in head first.

the bar rail was a piece of cake - i did mine and i have never done anything like this .

the bar rail was a piece of cake - i did mine and i have never done anything like this .

Any tips on what to do or not to do? What is the trick or how do you construct the top to fit the rail? And how does the rail attatch to the bar itself?

Any tips on what to do or not to do? What is the trick or how do you construct the top to fit the rail? And how does the rail attatch to the bar itself?


I built mine up w/ 3 sheets of 3/4" ply (i think) I allowed for the bottom sheet to protrude out to support the bottom part of the rail. I marked out (w/ a small piece of scrap rail) the parts for the top and bottom and secured them w/ drywall screws. I will see if I have the measurements somewhere.

This was before I owned a digital camera so....

See this link:

http://www.tapeease.com/bar_rails_and_splices.htm (http://www.tapeease.com/bar_rails_and_splices.htm)

The rail can be screwed from the underside and both glued and pin-nailed from the top. Your choice as to which you want you just have to build the substrate on the bar to accomodate the railing dimensions. For my bar I used the WD-AT-597 Bar rail. 3/4 '' plywood base, and a 7/8 '' thick solid mahogany top.



Any tips on what to do or not to do? What is the trick or how do you construct the top to fit the rail? And how does the rail attatch to the bar itself?

Here is a cut away of mine. You can see how it steps. I screwed mine in from the bottom.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/P2060007.jpg

There are a lot of diff bar rails . You need to know how you want to finish your bar top too .
I really think you need to find the bar rail you want and ask for a detail drawing and /or a sample pc.
The one thing you need to remember if you need to cut your rail on an angle is to prop up the rail in the saw so it sits in the saw as it would on the bar .Lots of discussions in earlier pages on this.

Here is a cut away of mine. You can see how it steps. I screwed mine in from the bottom.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/P2060007.jpg

So is that just a single sheet of 3/4 plywood then the wood flooring? or am i missing something?

Heynow , you didn't have to cut your bar in half just to show a guy a cross section . LOL

its what he does out of the goodness of his heart - what any AVS forum member would do

:) I have been wanting to get the ole chainsaw out...

Steve, yes one sheet.

:) I have been wanting to get the ole chainsaw out...

Steve, yes one sheet.

Do you happen to have a website for the place you got your rail? I cant seem to find it and I want to see if I can get a sample peice.

Iusteve , somewhere in these pages is a discussion on where everyone got there rails - in case you want to check out other types . Or you could google " bar rails " for more info too.
Here is another thread in this forum for you to check out too . Lotsa discussion on bar rails

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13499469#post13499469

Iusteve , somewhere in these pages is a discussion on where everyone got there rails - in case you want to check out other types . Or you could google " bar rails " for more info too.
Here is another thread in this forum for you to check out too . Lotsa discussion on bar rails

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13499469#post13499469

Thanks for the advice and I have done. I have contacted the folks at McDaniel hardwoods and they are sending me a sample peice so I have that to work with. I wonder if they would pre-cut the angle for me prior to shipping? I should ask that. Anyone know the answer? that would make my life easier as I hate to mess up an expensive peice of moulding.

I believe that they would precut a 45 for you. They are a great group of folks.

If all you have is one 90 degree angle in your bar, I certainly would ask that they pre-cut it for you. Sure would make your build go much easier.

I believe that they would precut a 45 for you. They are a great group of folks.
I have been in contact via email with David Hoffman at McDaniels and he said they do not do mitre cuts :( That part is the part that scares me silly. How about I have it shipped to you and you cut it for me....lol. Did you after you cut the two peices fill it with a wood putty or filler? If so what kind?

Rent a mitre saw, put two pieces of 3/4 stock under and cut it! Or find a buddy that will cut it for you. Any wood putty will work. Relax, it's not that difficult.

Randy's right. You're overthinking it. It's not that hard...and it's not like it's the end of the world if you make a mistake...you can re-cut it depending upon where you are in your build.

Rent a mitre saw, put two pieces of 3/4 stock under and cut it! Or find a buddy that will cut it for you. Any wood putty will work. Relax, it's not that difficult.

No I have a nice mitre saw ( I just finished a rather large deck here this summer) I just wasnt sure how to cut the rail and didnt want to mess it up since I know its a littl costly. You are right I am probably over thinking it.

So let me know when you will have it cut for me.....:D LOL

any pics of hte deck

any pics of hte deck

I took a ton but none uploaded to the pc yet. I will get to that soon. I am not sure this is where I should post them though. lol. I built it around a 24' above ground pool and attatched it to our existing deck with some slight modifications. all in all it went well for my first major project.

Do you happen to have a website for the place you got your rail? I cant seem to find it and I want to see if I can get a sample peice.

FYI - Got mine at the local LOWES store..... in oak and in 8 ft sections.

My Lowes/HD didn't have it, but I got mine at local millyard. You might want to check locally first. Look in the yellow pages for "millwork" or even "lumber" and then call around asking for "bar rail" or "chicago bar rail." Good luck.

I appreciate all the help with the rails. I received the sample from McDaniels today and looking at it I think I can figure it out assuming I can figure out how to cut the angle in it. I assume if I take a peice of 3/4" plywood and put under the first lip then take a second peice and put on top of that one under the 2nd lip that will make it the angle I need then I will need to cut I believe a 45 degree angle (maybe Im wrong)to make the turn and go from there. I will ask more when I get to that point in the project.

Another question I have is regarding the Envirotex...I see alot posted here regarding the pour of the Etex. Has anyone poured it thicker than 1/8"? I was thinking that maybe a little thicker would make it more durable. I was thinking maybe 1/4" or a little more. Any ideas, suggestions or advice when it comes to that?

Again thanks for all the responses to all my "stupid" questions. I stumbled upon this forum by accident during a google search and now this site is quickly becoming my "bar building bible"

Etex recommends no more than 1/8 inch PER POUR. You can build it up with several pours.

Sounds like you have it figured out as far as the stack up for the rail in the saw . Then it's just a matter of turnin the blade to 45 deg. (providing of course the bar is a perfect "L" (90 deg. corner) shape . Some saws don't have an accurate degree scale , so i would suggest cutting both angled pcs. , but leave a little stock on for adjustment . If your angles dont match up , adjust the blade a little and recut angles - if the angles are good - take the stock , if required , off the straight (square end)
All this goes easier if you make sure your bar itself is nice and square and level .

P.S. & the more level the bar and bartop , the less envirotech you'll need

Etex recommends no more than 1/8 inch PER POUR. You can build it up with several pours.

That is what I thought I read on here. I plan on making a few small pours as I havent used this stuff before. I just thought 1/8" seemed a little thin but it might just be me (the novice)

Sounds like you have it figured out as far as the stack up for the rail in the saw . Then it's just a matter of turnin the blade to 45 deg. (providing of course the bar is a perfect "L" (90 deg. corner) shape . Some saws don't have an accurate degree scale , so i would suggest cutting both angled pcs. , but leave a little stock on for adjustment . If your angles dont match up , adjust the blade a little and recut angles - if the angles are good - take the stock , if required , off the straight (square end)
All this goes easier if you make sure your bar itself is nice and square and level .

P.S. & the more level the bar and bartop , the less envirotech you'll need

Thanks for the good tips. I have a fairly good Delta(Industrial grade) 12" mitre saw it has pretty good angle measurements. I am hoping the deck turns out both square and level but I may be asking for too much here...lol.

Another question I have is regarding the Envirotex...I see alot posted here regarding the pour of the Etex. Has anyone poured it thicker than 1/8"? I was thinking that maybe a little thicker would make it more durable. I was thinking maybe 1/4" or a little more. Any ideas, suggestions or advice when it comes to that?


I would pour as close to if not slightly over the 1/8" thickness. It appears from several of us that if you pour less than that ~1/16" you get coverage issues. It's hard to gauge but imagine a liquid a little less than the consistency of honey and how you would try and cover it over your bar surface. That will give you some idea of how thick it should be to allow itself to level out correctly.

I poured two coats that combined is a little over 1/8". My first pour had issues that were resolved with the second one.

I couldnt find any answers on here so I cambe back to this thread to ask the knowledgeable folks. I am wanting to know the best and most effective way but also the cheapest way to attatch the 2x4 framed half wall front of my bar to the concrete floor?

I heard tapcons and also a ramset(that fires a .22 caliber shot into a set pin. Now I do not have a ramset but if I need one I suppose I will have to buck up and get one. Or can I get away with using tapcons? I have never used either and also am curious the length of tapcon or pin I will need for the ramset? Anyone that wants to pipe in PLEASE by all means do so?

I dont see why you couldnt use the tapcons, but i think (and this is only my opinion) that the ramset would be better.
I think that you can rent that at a local home depot or instead of buying the gun, you could buy a remmington that you hit w/ a hammer and it will set it. Much cheaper than the other.

Good luck w/ whatever you do

Or maybe rent one from Big Orange....

Bud

Tapcons are fairly cheap & easy - the store you buy them from can recommend a size - most Tapcons come with a drill bit also .

I couldnt find any answers on here so I cambe back to this thread to ask the knowledgeable folks. I am wanting to know the best and most effective way but also the cheapest way to attatch the 2x4 framed half wall front of my bar to the concrete floor?

I heard tapcons and also a ramset(that fires a .22 caliber shot into a set pin. Now I do not have a ramset but if I need one I suppose I will have to buck up and get one. Or can I get away with using tapcons? I have never used either and also am curious the length of tapcon or pin I will need for the ramset? Anyone that wants to pipe in PLEASE by all means do so?

We used LePage Construction adhesive (Black Tube) to glue down aluminum floor runners or Aluminum studs (we have Radiant Heated floors and can't use tapcons) and then used a framing gun to attach 2x4s to the Aluminum worked very well and easy!

Good luck

Cheers,

Requis

Just found this awesome thread. Can anyone here help me with the size and location of a bar for my small basement?

http://img68.imageshack.us/img68/7746/img020ql1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Hmmm, don't know how big of a bar you want, but I'd try to take advantage of the existing/future WH location for plumbing purposes (a sink is a definite nice-to-have).

If I'm reading right, you have an existing WH under the stairwell that you're moving out to the other marked location. So maybe a wrap-around bar on that stairwell corner? That way you could take advantage of the stairwell for back-bar purposes.

Does anyone know where I can go to find Maple paneling locally? Home depot didnt carry maple. Im looking to do my bar in a light maple color to match my pool table.

You might want to look at cabinet grade maple plywood. You can get 1/4" if you want something thin. I used maple plywood but I will tell you that maple is a hard wood to stain even when you pre treat it.

You might want to look at cabinet grade maple plywood. You can get 1/4" if you want something thin. I used maple plywood but I will tell you that maple is a hard wood to stain even when you pre treat it.


Ive never worked with wood before, so im kind of nervous and excited. Ive also never stained wood as well. Any tips are appreciated. I dont see many maple bars. Especially light maple.

Ive never worked with wood before, so im kind of nervous and excited. Ive also never stained wood as well. Any tips are appreciated. I dont see many maple bars. Especially light maple.

Here's some picks of mine. I used maple plywood for the front, top, and the rail.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1054364&highlight=

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14947217#post14947217

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15012923#post15012923

Here's some picks of mine. I used maple plywood for the front, top, and the rail.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1054364&highlight=

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14947217#post14947217

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15012923#post15012923

Looks nice. Im trying to match it to my pool table.

http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/billm0066/P1110667.jpg

Dont mind the carpet. Its going to get changed this year after I paint the walls and ceiling.

Looks nice. Im trying to match it to my pool table.

http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/billm0066/P1110667.jpg

Dont mind the carpet. Its going to get changed this year after I paint the walls and ceiling.


You should be able to match that since that basically looks like unstained maple. Try just putting a clear coat on the plywood.

Just found this awesome thread. Can anyone here help me with the size and location of a bar for my small basement?



I'd get out the blue painters tape. Try a couple of spots by outlining the design with tape to the actual size you want. You can then put chairs and such there to test.

Hey guys! First post here...found the forum by a search for home bar ideas. I thought I'd share my own, but please understand this isn't something you'll see on cribs....this is my starter home, and my starter basement.

I had no plans or anything else, I just knew I wanted a bar in my basement theater room. I picked up twenty 2x4's, and started sawing and hammering and came up with this. It is covered in plain old paneling, and the top is granite tile that were on blowout at Depot. I built the entire bar for $130, but as you can see I still need to finish inside of it, and would really like to build an overhead. I see a few pages back, someone made a lighted liquor stand that is awesome.....if someone could post progress pics, that would be great. The entire room, as a matter of fact was done on a huge budget. Carpeting was put on the walls for its sound deadening properties, theater-ish appearance, and it was just the cheapest way to do it. Including building the screen and buying a used projector, I have about $1500 total into the entire room. The screen will get redone when I get a new projector which isn't 4:3 native. Again this isn't something for Cribs, but I am pretty proud.....

If anyone has any suggestions on how to finish the inside of the bar now, it would be greatly appreciated. I wasn't thinking that far ahead when I built this :)

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm283/timcole421/house/bar1.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm283/timcole421/house/barr2.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm283/timcole421/house/barr3.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm283/timcole421/house/basement_movie.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm283/timcole421/house/basement2.jpg

Oh yeah, I obviously still have electrical work to do too, but am waiting to decide what I should do for the overhead deal. Again, I know this isn't exactly a thread highlight, but for the money spent (did everything myself) I am extremely happy.

What I started with.....
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm283/timcole421/house/basement_before2.jpg

Here are pics of the lighted liquor shelves I made for my bar.

Shelve was made with MDF, and 1/4 inch mahogany plywood. If I had any 1/2 inch plywood left I would have made it from that.

2 sheets of 1/4 inch plexiglass for the tops, and a cheap fluorescent light underneath.

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii223/Tony_M_photos/Bar%20Construction/DSC_00224-1.jpg

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii223/Tony_M_photos/Bar%20Construction/DSC_00244.jpg

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii223/Tony_M_photos/Bar%20Construction/DSC_00463.jpg

Tim

Finishing the inside of your bar, can be done by making simple shelfs of plywood or MDF, as I did with mine.

Rough back of bar
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii223/Tony_M_photos/Bar%20Construction/DSC_0017.jpg

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii223/Tony_M_photos/Bar%20Construction/DSC_0035.jpg[/IMG]

Back of Bar Completed
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii223/Tony_M_photos/Bar%20Construction/DSC_00266.jpg
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii223/Tony_M_photos/Bar%20Construction/DSC_00254.jpg

Your bar looks good, Tim! I have those same bar stools actually...a Wally world special?

I just bought the 2x4's for my bar yesterday. First time I ever bought 2x4's and it will be the first time ive worked with wood. Im really excited and kind of nervous. I guess you have start sometime right? I will take lots of pics along the way. I bought barplan.com plans, but im just using them for reference. My bar will be almost a U shape with a 45 at one end.

Hey New to AVS forums... I have gotten some really good ideas, but I am having trouble of my own... I have a limited amount of space in a small bedroom, that i would like to make into sort of a man cave... I havent got any Ideas on how to make it look decent. any tips or hints would help. thanks

Do you want a bar in it, because thats what this thread is for.

Yeah, Not a huge bar, but something decent sized... I was thinking of putting a back bar in thecloset where there are the sliding wood doors. as soon as I have the materials, I will start taking pictures...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3358/3218132152_7177ba8644.jpg?v=0Here are a few bar and home theaters I have recently completed. I can produce detailed drawings for fabrication if you are interested.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3117/3217302787_81ff1a1f67.jpg?v=0
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3401/3217280077_8cec9324e8.jpg?v=0
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3326/3218132112_553af5043d.jpg?v=0

http://www.flickr.com/photos/34590560@N05/3218132112/in/photostream/

Wow - real nice work DarkDealer

Thanks, I enjoy working on A/V / home entertainment spaces.

Thats pretty cool, I Would Love to build something like that I just dont have a lot of space and I'm kind of working on a budget. I realy like the inset back bar in the second one down with the light colored barand the dark granit top... I'm pretty handy so I kind of wanted to do it myself (a sence of ownership i think)

I know people are always looking for new ideas/elements to add to their bars and theaters, so I thought I'd post this link for anyone interested.
I've was looking around for some ideas for the day when I get some time/money to build my bar and came accross this site when looking for some corbels...

http://www.vandykes.com/category/corbels

Not sure if that site has been posted any where before, but prices look good and they have a huge selection....

What do you guys think about doing the top of the bar with slate tile, and covering with envirotex? How big of grout lines should I do? Do I have to use a cement back board for slate? Ive never worked with tile before so please excuse my ignorance. Right now my framing is done. Do I have to put osb, cement board, then tile, or can I attach the cement board directly to the 2x4 framing? This tile would only be for the top. The sides will probably be birch or maple plywood.

Is a beer gutter really necessary? For those who left it out do you wish you included it? For those who have it do you recommend I put one in?

My bar is going to have a 6-7" foot rest at the bottom. What do you think the minimum overhang of the bar should be? I have a pole that gets in the way, but I think I can get away with about a 9" maximum overhang.

Lastly do you think Birch will look similar to maple? Im not doing a stain. Just a couple coats of poly for a lighter more natural color. Is there a price difference birch and Maple? From what ive read online is Birch is cheaper and is similar in appearance to maple. The reason why I ask is because if I do my entire bar with birch to save money, and I use a maple bar rail I dont want it to look odd. Or if I have to use some maple molding to decorate, I dont want that to look odd either.

You need to have a stable foundation for any tile install. Plywood (or OSB) with cement board on top (1/4 inch) then tile.

The groutlines can be as large (or small) as you like. There are minimum sizes for groutlines depending upon the grout you choose. Check the packaging.

Cannot comment on enviortex over the slate.

Birch should look simular in appearence to maple and birch is cheaper. You should get samples of the birch plywood and maple trim from the companies you want to do business with. Look them over, apply finish and see if the results meet your requirements.

For an overhang, the closer you get to 12 inches the better and more comfortable it will be to sit at the bar without banging your knees into the bar bottom. This number is not set in stone and many people have smaller overhangs and have made them work.

Is a beer gutter really necessary? For those who left it out do you wish you included it? For those who have it do you recommend I put one in?


I have one and I'm glad I do. It provides a nice place to store coasters, bottle openers, shot glasses, pint glasses etc without being on the bar itself. And, I have a rubber mat that catches the wet stuff just like the bar too.

What do you guys think about doing the top of the bar with slate tile, and covering with envirotex? How big of grout lines should I do? Do I have to use a cement back board for slate? Ive never worked with tile before so please excuse my ignorance. Right now my framing is done. Do I have to put osb, cement board, then tile, or can I attach the cement board directly to the 2x4 framing? This tile would only be for the top. The sides will probably be birch or maple plywood.

Is a beer gutter really necessary? For those who left it out do you wish you included it? For those who have it do you recommend I put one in?

My bar is going to have a 6-7" foot rest at the bottom. What do you think the minimum overhang of the bar should be? I have a pole that gets in the way, but I think I can get away with about a 9" maximum overhang.

Lastly do you think Birch will look similar to maple? Im not doing a stain. Just a couple coats of poly for a lighter more natural color. Is there a price difference birch and Maple? From what ive read online is Birch is cheaper and is similar in appearance to maple. The reason why I ask is because if I do my entire bar with birch to save money, and I use a maple bar rail I dont want it to look odd. Or if I have to use some maple molding to decorate, I dont want that to look odd either.

Sounds like you stole my idea... :p Link (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13404082#post13404082) I made mention of this hear almost a year ago (just never got around to actually building my bar).

As Tony mentions though, I think you'll want to get your over hang as close to 12" as possible, especially with a 6-7" foot rest. I have a snack bar in my kitchen with a couple of stools and it's 10". It really is just a little too close and you can easily bump your knees on the wall.
Also, when I made mention of using slate and envirotex, someone made a comment of making sure to seal the tile and grout prior to pouring the envirotex. This is a good suggestion because slate and grout can be very porous and you'll want to avoid getting any air bubbles in the envirotex.

I still plan on doing this wit my bar some day, just need some more time/money, but if you want to test out the whole theory, that's fine with me! ;)

I highly recommend a beer gutter if you plan on having a Kegerator

No kegerator for the bar, but I decided to do a beer gutter. Ive been getting prices on maple 1x4 and its expensive. The cheapest I found was $3.50 per foot and I need close to 100ft. 1/4" maple plywood was $48 per sheet, but I need 4 of those, and 18 ft of 1x6 and thats about $4 per foot. This doesnt include the slate tile or the envirotex. This turned out to be alot more money than I anticipated.

I also recommend the beer gutter.... You may not want a kegerator NOW but things may change down the road :) unless you hate beer or something.....

No kegerator for the bar, but I decided to do a beer gutter. Ive been getting prices on maple 1x4 and its expensive. The cheapest I found was $3.50 per foot and I need close to 100ft. 1/4" maple plywood was $48 per sheet, but I need 4 of those, and 18 ft of 1x6 and thats about $4 per foot. This doesnt include the slate tile or the envirotex. This turned out to be alot more money than I anticipated.


What are you using all of the 1X4 maple for? If it's your frame just use normal 2X4's

What are you using all of the 1X4 maple for? If it's your frame just use normal 2X4's
wonder if he's looking to do a paneling look on the front as well as an edge around the bar top for his tile???

What are you using all of the 1X4 maple for? If it's your frame just use normal 2X4's

No its definitely not for framing. Im new to working with wood but i know better than that. Im deciding on going with a design like this

http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/billm0066/Bar_trim.jpg

All the trim would be 1x4 in maple, and the paneling behind it would be 1/4" maple plywood. The foot rest would be 1x6.

Or I was going to do something like this

http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/billm0066/Bar_Wainscot.jpg

Home depot has a special order of the wainscot with the upper and lower trim for $90 for a 4x8'. Its made for a wall, but I think it would look fine for a bar. Click the link to see it http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?jspStoreDir=hdus&catalogId=10053&productId=100484660&navFlow=3&keyword=maple+paneling&langId=-1&searchRedirect=maple+paneling&storeId=10051&endecaDataBean=com.homedepot.sa.el.wc.catalog.beans.EndecaDa taBean%405c8013fb&ddkey=Search

I think I like the first one the best though. To me it looks a little more modern and thats how I want my basement to look.

I like both of them!

What do you guys think about doing the top of the bar with slate tile, and covering with envirotex? How big of grout lines should I do? Do I have to use a cement back board for slate? Ive never worked with tile before so please excuse my ignorance. Right now my framing is done. Do I have to put osb, cement board, then tile, or can I attach the cement board directly to the 2x4 framing? This tile would only be for the top. The sides will probably be birch or maple plywood.

Is a beer gutter really necessary? For those who left it out do you wish you included it? For those who have it do you recommend I put one in?

My bar is going to have a 6-7" foot rest at the bottom. What do you think the minimum overhang of the bar should be? I have a pole that gets in the way, but I think I can get away with about a 9" maximum overhang.

Lastly do you think Birch will look similar to maple? Im not doing a stain. Just a couple coats of poly for a lighter more natural color. Is there a price difference birch and Maple? From what ive read online is Birch is cheaper and is similar in appearance to maple. The reason why I ask is because if I do my entire bar with birch to save money, and I use a maple bar rail I dont want it to look odd. Or if I have to use some maple molding to decorate, I dont want that to look odd either.

Maple and birch will look very very similar if you just put a varnish, oil or poly on it. Maple can have more interesting patterns with birdseye, quilted, and other variations which can look very interesting. These variations are actually aberrations in the wood. Maple also has a more 3-D look to it when you do not stain it. Maple does not stain well.

Maple is my favorite wood when it is not stained and we have it in our floors and furniture.

I like the top one much more. It will look great with a wiping poly or an oil on it.

It is more modern and sleek but if you like the traditional style better then the wainscotting one might be better suited for you.

I second the maple is hard to stain. That's what I used and it was a pain even when using a prestain

I got alot of work done last night on the bar. I have plywood on top, and bought all the maple plywood I need. Couple more questions though.

Since im doing slate tile I was told I need plywood, then cement board or hardibacker, and then the tile goes on top of that. Do I just screw the hardiback to the plywood, and then lay the tile on top? Ive been looking up directions online, but everything is for floors. I read i should use thinset between the plywood and hardibacker. Since nobody is walking on the bar, I figured installation might be different.

What should I use to cut the 1/4 maple plywood? I have a table saw, and a jig saw with fine blades. If I use a table saw, how do I keep the 4x8 sheet straight when I cut it? Should I cut it with the good side down?

The most important think is to have an very stable, very level base for the tile. If I remember, I used thin set with a handful of screws. Then when you lay the tie, you will again use thin set so it will level everything out, fill in any spaces and attach the tiles.

BTW, I had not built anything like this before. I learned a lot.

I used granite tiles and it worked well. Tho I had to go out of town and wife surprised me by having our tile guy come out and install the tiles. I had done all the prep work. You can see the prep here;

http://img373.imageshack.us/img373/7425/p31501224dr.jpg

i used granite tiles as well for the back bar. inexpensive that way which freed up some money for the granite (splurged there). granite is 12 inches overhung on 12 inch deep American Woodmark wall cabinets (HD line). lot of work went into bracing/supporting (no visible posts or corbels) which can describe if any interest

http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt3/ajabean5/DSC01525.jpg

i used granite tiles as well for the back bar. inexpensive that way which freed up some money for the granite (splurged there). granite is 12 inches overhung on 12 inch deep American Woodmark wall cabinets (HD line). lot of work went into bracing/supporting (no visible posts or corbels) which can describe if any interest



Very nice bar!

And you were smart in using the granite tiles only on the "back bar". I don't know if it is the black tiles I used, or bad tiles or what. But within 6 months I started getting water stains set in the tiles. Pretty much only on the bartenders side. But still. And yes I sealed and sealed the tile. And every time I clean them, I use the cleaner that has a sealer in it. I've gotten a little obsessive with coasters and napkins on the user/bar side, and so far nothing really bad on the user/bar side.

Had I to do over, I would have gone with engineered stone (Silestone). But obviously that would have sent the budget thru the roof. The tiles for my bar were right at $100, and like I said wife called our tile guy while I was working out of town and he installed for $200. So for $300, I'm pleased. Just wish I wasn't picking up those water stains.

I finally found the additional lighting for my bar....I stumbled on it at Lowes. I'm going to put up some track lighting and drop some pendents over the bar and 2-3 spot lights on the art on the walls. This is the pendents I'm going to get...

http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/080629/080629318847md.jpg

I'm going to try to get it done this weekend. If so, will post pics...

I finally found the additional lighting for my bar....I stumbled on it at Lowes. I'm going to put up some track lighting and drop some pendents over the bar and 2-3 spot lights on the art on the walls. This is the pendents I'm going to get...

http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/080629/080629318847md.jpg

I'm going to try to get it done this weekend. If so, will post pics...
Looks pretty cool! Would love to see pics when it's done!

For those with pendent type lighting, how high off the bar do you have the lighting? As you can see above, I decided on lighting, but in doing my initial measurement, I can't quite decide how high off the bar to make them.

Looking at photos it looks like most have gone about 3-4 feet from the top of the bar to the bottom of the light. Does that seem to be about right?

edit: I found this:

First we tackle height. Position a pendant with an “open bottom” too high; and you will have created one big eyesore! The same applies if you place a pendant fixture with “tapered-in bottom” too low. Rule – Keep the fixture at eyelevel, this will depend on average height of household occupants - but averages suggest that the optimum level lies about 70” up from the floor.

http://www.guide4home.com/dec-light/pendant.htm

But I'd still love to hear thoughts.

funny i thought about this earlier today. first, i think the lights you found are cool looking. after that thought, my 2nd thought this AM was something like that would never work above our bar (posted up above) becuase our ceiling is on the lower side (about 7'2"). our first filter in selecting was a low profile as we wanted to hang high enough so that when seated at the bar, it would not obstruct your line of sight with anyone else. and even when standing it's not bad. so that meant a pretty small light. so most didn't fit that profile though that can help when choosing too (but not when searching). not sure what that means from a measurement point of view re your question (i.e., i'm too lazy right now to go down and measure) but that at least points out an important consideration i think.

ours our at 68" inches (from floor to bottom of glass fixture)

Ahh...certainly a good point! You don't want to block any views. And I do have a TV in the bar. So that is something to think about. My ceiling is sloped. So I'll have to adjust each of the lengths of the lights. I'll have to play around a bit.

Bottom of fixture such that you don't see the actual bulb when seated:

http://www.caesare.com/basement/slides/IMG_2011.jpg

I am currently finishing my basement and am putting a bar in. My first question (I will probably have many) is this.... I want to put some cabinets and shelving units under the bar. Is this something I need to have prior to framing the exterior and top or can the cabinetry be put in after it is framed up?

Thanks

Pelly

Bottom of fixture such that you don't see the actual bulb when seated:

http://www.caesare.com/basement/slides/IMG_2011.jpg

Nice look!

I can't go that low. The track lighting pendants only have a 4.5 foot cord. Based on talk here and the length of the cord, I have one light that is going to hang from the highest point on the ceiling. So I'll use the full length of the cord on that one and go from them. I can always shorten, but I don't think I would be able to lengthen. But maybe. I'll have to get the fixtures and check it out.

But I had thought about that "seeing the bulb" thing. And these fixtures can take those sort of candle looking bulbs. So it won't be a standard bulb.

edit, I see you went with track lighting and based on those covers I think I saw those at Lowes as well. I really like you went with black. I was thinking going with white since ceiling is white, but I might reconsider that. I really like the look of yours.

I am currently finishing my basement and am putting a bar in. My first question (I will probably have many) is this.... I want to put some cabinets and shelving units under the bar. Is this something I need to have prior to framing the exterior and top or can the cabinetry be put in after it is framed up?

Thanks

Pelly

Check out my build (I started this thread and my photos start on page 2).

I thought the same thing about shelving. I ended up going to a cabinet supply company and bought builders grade vanity cabinets. Doors and drawers and then I added shelving. Worked out well.

If you look thru this thread you will see some did stick build and other did cabinets and added to it.

To specifically answer your question, you could do it a couple of ways depending on what your skill level is, your comfortable with and your budget;

You could still build and put shelving in from the beginning
You could use cabinets as your base and then you will have doors, drawers and shelves
Or you could build a shell and add shelves later.

It is your build after all so you can plan it however you want and the way you want.

Nice look!

I can't go that low. The track lighting pendants only have a 4.5 foot cord. Based on talk here and the length of the cord, I have one light that is going to hang from the highest point on the ceiling. So I'll use the full length of the cord on that one and go from them. I can always shorten, but I don't think I would be able to lengthen. But maybe. I'll have to get the fixtures and check it out.

But I had thought about that "seeing the bulb" thing. And these fixtures can take those sort of candle looking bulbs. So it won't be a standard bulb.

edit, I see you went with track lighting and based on those covers I think I saw those at Lowes as well. I really like you went with black. I was thinking going with white since ceiling is white, but I might reconsider that. I really like the look of yours.

Thanks!

The pendants I bought online actually had baseplates to attach to a ceiling electrical box. I bought the black track online from a different vendor, and they sold just the "pendant base" unitis that plugged in to the track along with a hole and grommet to feed the pendant wire thru. I jut off the standard bases the pendants came with and fitted the bases to the pendants to use with the track.

I think if you have a slanted ceiling, you might want to try and see if you can replace the cable on the "higher" one so that they end up matching at the same height over your bar?

Thanks!

The pendants I bought online actually had baseplates to attach to a ceiling electrical box. I bought the black track online from a different vendor, and they sold just the "pendant base" unitis that plugged in to the track along with a hole and grommet to feed the pendant wire thru. I jut off the standard bases the pendants came with and fitted the bases to the pendants to use with the track.

I think if you have a slanted ceiling, you might want to try and see if you can replace the cable on the "higher" one so that they end up matching at the same height over your bar?


Oh yea...they will all be the same height. I'll start with the highest point of the ceiling and shorten the cords of each one as I go down the ceiling.

I realized 1/2 osb isnt going to cut it for the bar top. It has a little flex on the overhang so I just had 3/4" delivered to my house. I found maple bar rail locally for $13.50 per foot. I had to buy a couple extra feet because he wouldnt cut them, but it gives me quite a few practice cuts. Everything is coming together nicely. Im still going with 6"x6" slate tile with envirotex over the top. My deadline is March 20th (moms b-day) and were having the family over. Any tips for making straight cuts on osb? Im thinking of using a circular saw with 1x4 clamped down on the plywood as a guide. I dont see how I could run a sheet of osb through my table saw and keeping a straight cut. Its extremely heavy and big. Any tips are appreciated, because im going to work on it tonight.

Well have made some progress on the back bar shelves. I did some sanding and prestain last night. Once I finish with the staining I'll be adding glass racks.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_2046.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_2045.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_2044.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_2043.jpg

Well I finsihed the back bar. Although I may still add some glass racks on the side cabinets. Thanks for the tips on the backbar Heynow

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_2048.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_2049.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_2050.jpg

That turned out great!

Very classy looking. Can you share how you did the trim on the front of your bar?

Nice work.

That looks good. Drink up!

Very classy looking. Can you share how you did the trim on the front of your bar?

Nice work.

Thanks guys.

Which trim are you referring to?

The trim on the front facing of your bar. The area in front of your stools.

str1der - very nicely done, love the look. What color stain did you use?
With the sink to the far left do you feel like you have enough room or would you change it if you had to do it over again?

str1der - very nicely done, love the look. What color stain did you use?
With the sink to the far left do you feel like you have enough room or would you change it if you had to do it over again?

I have no problem with room. One of the driving factors was that's where my rough in was but really I wanted over next to the wall. I find that it's mostly used for pouring things out and washing a glass here and there. The other thing is I wouldn't want the sink dividing up my counter space.

The stain was dictated by the finished lower cabinets I bought. It's kind of a cross between maple and cherry. I took a piece into Sherwin William's and a piece of the wood I was using and they matched the color.

The trim on the front facing of your bar. The area in front of your stools.

Well along the bottom I used a normal baseboard molding with some of those corner blocks. Then from there I ran some fluted trim (like on a door frame) and cut it to fit against the bottom of the corbels. I then just created a false raised panel look by using picture frame type trim and simply making miter cut frames. Then I bought the grape plaque pieces for the center. Here are a few pics of the earlier stages.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_1891.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_1892.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_1893.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_1898.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_1903.jpg

Thanks for posting the pics. I probably missed them the last time you posted or I'm having a senior moment or both. Very nice job, you should be proud.

STR1DER - that looks great! Well done! Do you happen to have any pictures from inside the bar looking out? I'm wondering what it looks like inside. Did you use cabinets all around then frame out the taller bar top next to them??

STR1DER - that looks great! Well done! Do you happen to have any pictures from inside the bar looking out? I'm wondering what it looks like inside. Did you use cabinets all around then frame out the taller bar top next to them??


Here's a few pics of the inside

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_1937.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_1938.jpg


http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f359/ziegelmeyer/IMG_1881.jpg

Great job str1der. Your bar looks great.

Thanks for posting those. Looks fantastic!

- nice job
- where do you pick up the wine glass racks ? Thnx

- nice job
- where do you pick up the wine glass racks ? Thnx

Got them on ebay from AB Resteraunt supply. Cost $4.99 each.

Thanks for posting those. Looks fantastic!


No problem. Are you looking at using cabinets in your build?

Thanks for posting the pics. I probably missed them the last time you posted or I'm having a senior moment or both. Very nice job, you should be proud.


No problem. This thread has gotten huge. Your bar looks great. Are you thinking of dressing up the front trim?

No problem. Are you looking at using cabinets in your build?

Yes I am. Especially after seeing yours! :)
Do you have thoughts or advise on using cabinets?

No problem. This thread has gotten huge. Your bar looks great. Are you thinking of dressing up the front trim?

Thanks. Yes, I have been thinking of a major overhaul after seeing so many great bar examples. Never done, huh?

Thanks. Yes, I have been thinking of a major overhaul after seeing so many great bar examples. Never done, huh?

SsssssHhhhhhhhhh! my wife is listening. :)

Not great pics. They don't do them justice. I don't know why they look yellow near the top in the photos. Not that way in reality.

I ended up exactly 30" from the bar top and seemed to work well. Very happy with the results. I've added two spot lights to highlight some of the stuff on the walls. I'll add at least one more, maybe two.

http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/5139/lightsoffsmall.jpg

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/7520/lightsonsmall.jpg

Any recommendations for using envirotex? I should be pouring it next weekend over slate tile. Im sealing the slate once before grout and once after. How long does it take thin pours to fully cure?

It is temp sensitive. The warmer the ambient area the faster it sets up. Check out the Etex website for the exact times for curing.

Any recommendations for using envirotex? I should be pouring it next weekend over slate tile. Im sealing the slate once before grout and once after. How long does it take thin pours to fully cure?

Any pics of the current progress? Love to see what you have got done.

Heres the etex pouring instructions....

http://www.eti-usa.com/consum/envtex/envinstr.htm

Any pics of the current progress? Love to see what you have got done.

I tiled 1/2 the bar last night and will finish the tile tonight. Once I tile it I will snap some pics and ask questions about mounting bar rail. I will probably start a new thread.

Any places I can buy 1 gallon from thats cheap? I think Joann carries the small ones from what ive heard, but im going to need alot of this stuff. Im thinking about 2 gallons since im going to need a thick pour to cover the tiles. Can I mix this stuff in a 5 gallon bucket with a wood paint mixer?

I tiled 1/2 the bar last night and will finish the tile tonight. Once I tile it I will snap some pics and ask questions about mounting bar rail. I will probably start a new thread.

Any places I can buy 1 gallon from thats cheap? I think Joann carries the small ones from what ive heard, but im going to need alot of this stuff. Im thinking about 2 gallons since im going to need a thick pour to cover the tiles. Can I mix this stuff in a 5 gallon bucket with a wood paint mixer?

My local Menards carries the gallons for around $53....try there for sure as Michaels, Joannes etc only usually carry 32oz kits. I would love to see some pics or start a thread for all of us to see.

I'm currently going over the final drawings for my bar in my basement as we speak. I have a neighbor who is a self-employed carpenter who just makes whatever I draw. As long as I give him measurements for things, he follows directions exactly.

My bar will have a "piano" shaped frame. (You know those upright pianos right?) The lower portion will basically be just a rectangle box that I slide in a front-vented bar refridgerator and ice maker and some drawers. That gets capped by a slab of granite 36" high with a hole cut in the middle for a sink. Then 1 foot above on top of that sits another slightly smaller piece of granite for the actual bar part that people sit up against.

From the side, the frame looks like an upright piano only with a lower slab of granite on the first tier (where the piano's keys would be) and another one at the very top that hangs over 6 inches towards the guest's side. That creates a 1 foot high space underneath the top tier for room for glasses and such that is hidden from view from the guest side.

Because I'm speanding all my money currently getting the theatre set up, It won't be finished for about 3 months I'd say?

I tiled 1/2 the bar last night and will finish the tile tonight. Once I tile it I will snap some pics and ask questions about mounting bar rail. I will probably start a new thread.

Any places I can buy 1 gallon from thats cheap? I think Joann carries the small ones from what ive heard, but im going to need alot of this stuff. Im thinking about 2 gallons since im going to need a thick pour to cover the tiles. Can I mix this stuff in a 5 gallon bucket with a wood paint mixer?
yeah, I'd be interested to see some pics too!! I'm still interested in doing this as well, so I'm very curious how it's going to turn out.

Hopefully it goes well!

I'm in the process of re-doing my bar. So far I have laid down some 36 inch cabinets in the general shape that the bar will be (see pic below). The main difference from the picture is I'm going to angle the cabinets that are closest a little more towards the back wall. Then we are going to put a 24 inch wide top (maybe granite) on top of the cabinets.

For the bar, I am going to frame out so that the bar top will be 42 inches tall after the top is put on. I have a question on how to best do that. Do I just need to have it one 2 x 4 wide attached to the cabinets? Or should I make a small (maybe 6 inch wide) box in front of the cabinets for added stability?

Also, I'm doing 24 inch wide granite on top of the cabinets, but I shouldn't need it that wide on the bar top, right? Is 12 inches enough? 18??

Here's a picture of what we have to far:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3578/3382527560_1d56ec636e.jpg?v=0

Nice layout. Are you putting in a sink?

Thanks!

We are not doing a sink -- at least for now. If we decide later on to add one it will be a back bar project later on.

Those of you who have done your own bar and used traditional bar moulding...is there much of a difference between the smaller 5" and the larger 6 3/4" moulding?

Perhaps the profile? Do you have pics of the railing you are talking about?

So , here ya go . Some pics of my almost finished bar ( i used the smaller bar rail)

http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/6370/img0691s.th.jpg (http://img7.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0691s.jpg)
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/5646/img0692s.th.jpg (http://img24.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0692s.jpg)
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/774/img0690w.th.jpg (http://img13.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0690w.jpg)
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/8131/img0688i.th.jpg (http://img24.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0688i.jpg)

Nice...I love the rock wall with the cut outs for shelving. That is "real" rock is it?

malbols,

Your bar looks great! Love the brick wall.

Thanks guys .
Actually the rock is a man made concrete product called ledge rock . Let me assure you though it sure does look like the real thing .

Oh it looks great! I didn't mean to say it didn't. If it was real brick I can only imagine what it would take to put that shelving in!

It looks awesome!!

I'm thinking of putting some sort of concrete or thin veneer in my bar!!


Thanks guys .
Actually the rock is a man made concrete product called ledge rock . Let me assure you though it sure does look like the real thing .

FYI - the stone is called ledge rock - very easy to install - it's actually a concrete manufactured stone . I think it cost me about $500.00 Canadian .
(I hear it's much cheaper stateside)to buy , including the mortar . The stone varies in thickness of course to give a natural look , but anywhere from 1 " - 2" thk .
For any cuts , i mounted a (concrete) 10" cutoff wheel to my tablesaw (run dry of course , no water)

Basement project still has a little bit of work to go, but the bar is shaping up! Here are a couple of pictures of what we've done...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3520/3469032547_17c6d7568c.jpg?v=0

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3538/3469026373_61552d109a.jpg?v=0

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3580/3469027033_8476831d0f.jpg?v=0


I am very happy with the way it turned out... except one thing. They cut a hole for the kegerator tower, but now it sits pretty low.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3524/3469026693_f1136c64c0.jpg?v=0


Anyone have thoughts on how I could raise up the tower a little bit??

Can you complain enough to get a new granite top?

I think you will have to raise the whole kegerator, or better yet install some sort of decorative wood to cover the hole in the granite and then install the tower directly to it. If you cannot get them to make this right.

Most installs, that I have seen, you would take the tower off of the kegerator, cut the hole in the top large enough for the beer line, and then attach the tower to the countertop. That would be my first choice.

Looks like the hole was cut large enough to take off the tower for the install.

Can you complain enough to get a new granite top?

I think you will have to raise the whole kegerator, or better yet install some sort of decorative wood to cover the hole in the granite and then install the tower directly to it. If you cannot get them to make this right.

Most installs, that I have seen, you would take the tower off of the kegerator, cut the hole in the top large enough for the beer line, and then attach the tower to the countertop. That would be my first choice.

Looks like the hole was cut large enough to take off the tower for the install.

+1

He is right the granite should have been cut with a hole for the beer lines and possibly some sort of insulation to keep beer flow cool and then the tower mounted to the granite so that there is more room under the tap to pour a beer.
Option #1--New granite top, cut right
Option #2--Some sort of filler for the large hole (wood, granite etc) and then a smaller hole for just the beer lines.
Optin #3--Get the largest keg you can fit in the kegerator, drink til empty and you wont care about the tower or the hole :(;)

On a side note have you plugged in and used that beverage center yet? The reason I ask is that I purchased that same one a few months back but its still sitting unused and I was curious if its performance was good. I have only turned mine on and set both sides at 36 to see if it got down to it and it did but I didnt know if it stayed there, ran too loud, too hot or any other issues and hoped you could shed some light

#3 will happen for sure! #1 won't happen -- my wife MAY have mentioned that that's how we wanted it... that part is unclear right now. #2 may be what we end up doing.

The beverage cooler keeps things nice and cold. It's a little loud, but I don't find it so loud that it bothers me. Seems pretty nice.

Also maybe you can replace that tower with a taller one since one of your issues is it being too low. Then after you get a taller tower you will still have to do option #2 and fill that hole somehow. Good luck and keep us posted

Take the tower off the kegerator and mount it directly on the granite. Take a pvc pipe and slip it in the granite hole insulate it. Then with a slab/wood/whatever spacer to attach the draft arm to and glue it to the granite.

I feel like doing something else to my bar. But since adding the lights, I really don't need to do anything...LOL....

I've added shelving to two of three windows. I think I will add to the smaller window, but will have to plan that a little. Maybe redo some trim work.

Take the tower off the kegerator and mount it directly on the granite. Take a pvc pipe and slip it in the granite hole insulate it. Then with a slab/wood/whatever spacer to attach the draft arm to and glue it to the granite.

You mean fill the cut hole in the granite with either wood or granite. Drill a hole in the middle of it for the hose. Then glue the tower to whatever I use to fill the hole (granite or wood)??

No,

If it were me, I would take the tower off the kegerator, put a sleeve in the granite hole using PVC pipe filled with insulation pushed to the kegerator and flush with the granite counter top, then run your beer hose back into the kegerator and mount the beer draft arm to the granite counter top. If the hole is too large, then put a piece of granite or other material and glue it to the granite top and drill a hole in it to run your hose back down into the kegerator.....

Hard to describe...hope you understand.

I think I get what you are saying Randy. Thanks for the help.

I'd like to share http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af231/jagelas/Picture002.jpg?t=1250811785
http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af231/jagelas/Picture003.jpg?t=1250811933

I like it! My original idea was to go with glass block, but decided against it once the wife declared that the bar must be movable.