Thanks for the info, the old one started with T81E444AAA that would mean my old H77 was created 2004 week 44, that would be very close to the date i got it. The new number is 2004 week 48 would mean that my new one was created 4 weeks later and yours again 4 weeks later. These are than all upgraded H77's since the H78 was not created for 6 more months.
I think first factory made H78's are build in the very end of the year 2004. Usually H77 upgraded to H78's in the service center can been detected by packing material used.

Upgraded units are in pinkish plastic bag without white padding around pj. Cardboard box looks opened.
Factory made units are in factory sealed box and there are white padding around pj and it is inside transparent plastic bag. Also factory made H78's have label on the cardboard box saying H78.

H78 was first announced in Europe in March 2005, but i believe they must have been producing them in the factory much much before that. And of course naturally selling old stock out first before announcing new model.

I think first factory made H78's are build in the very end of the year 2004. Usually H77 upgraded to H78's in the service center can been detected by packing material used.

Upgraded units are in pinkish plastic bag without white padding around pj. Cardboard box looks opened.
Factory made units are in factory sealed box and there are white padding around pj and it is inside transparent plastic bag. Also factory made H78's have label on the cardboard box saying H78.

H78 was first announced in Europe in March 2004, but i believe they must have been producing them in the factory much much before that. And of course naturally selling old stock out first before announcing new model.

I think you mean 2005, the H78 was announced in the uk atleast mar2005 (just checked the pressrelease). But your info is welcome anyway seems clear its a dc2 model then.

Daniel.

I think you mean 2005, the H78 was announced in the uk atleast mar2005 (just checked the pressrelease).
You are right. I ment to say year 2005.

ok I have searched this thread for the answer too my question and couldn't find it. Could someone please help me out? I have the h79 connected to my Denon 4806 with the denon 3910. When i switch from cable to dvd my h79 starts scaning to find a signal it finds one but is the scanning normal????. If not how can i fix this?

That what mine does. Autoscans. Only got 420 hours on original bulb.

I tried this last night, but no service menu appeared. Is there some trick involved--order of pushing buttons, specific input required, etc.
Thanks.

i think you can do this in the special menue by pushing the 4 buttons on the back of the pj simultaniously. buyer beware

I tried this last night, but no service menu appeared. Is there some trick involved--order of pushing buttons, specific input required, etc.
Thanks.

push is a misnomer, you have to push all 4 simultaneously and hold for a few seconds

I held all 4 buttons down for about 5 seconds and nothing appeared. How long do they need to be depressed? We are talking about the 4 buttons on top of the PJ, as opposed to buttons on the remote.

push is a misnomer, you have to push all 4 simultaneously and hold for a few seconds

I held all 4 buttons down for about 5 seconds and nothing appeared. How long do they need to be depressed? We are talking about the 4 buttons on top of the PJ, as opposed to buttons on the remote.


you are pressing the correct buttons, it has been awhile since i have done this, but try holding them down longer

Isn't it only 3 of the 4 buttons?

Gary

It is 3 of 4. Search for the H7x FAQ thread. It's linked in bill's (ursa) signature.

IIRC it's the left 2 and the rightmost one when your standing behind the projector right side up. One simultaneous push should do it, no holding required.

Can anyone suggest the best screen for the Optoma H79? I currently have a Da-Lite with 1.0 gain and I think there has got to be something better for it. I was considering the Stewart Firehawk but don't know if I need any gain.

I accessed the service menu last night, but am unsure what to do to get rid of screen that appears when the PJ is turned off asking whether to turn off the PJ or go to standby. There was no obvious category and though there were several possibilities, but I didn't want to go fooling around with things I'm not sure of. Can anyone advise what to change in the service menu to get rid of that screen.

Also, there was about a 30 hour difference between the display usage hours and the lamp usage hours. Is there any way to explain that?

Quick question on using the 12-volt triggers,

I saw some posts earlier about adding fans to the outside of the case to push extra air into (and out of) the box. Can 12v computer fans be directly connected to the 12v trigger to power them or is that too much of a draw from the 12v trigger, or does the trigger not stay powered the whole time the unit is on?

Has anyone done this? Can and/or should it be done?

Thanks for any replies. I am trying to maximize my lamp life since it seems like that can be fairly limited with this projector.

I accessed the service menu last night, but am unsure what to do to get rid of screen that appears when the PJ is turned off asking whether to turn off the PJ or go to standby. There was no obvious category and though there were several possibilities, but I didn't want to go fooling around with things I'm not sure of. Can anyone advise what to change in the service menu to get rid of that screen.

Also, there was about a 30 hour difference between the display usage hours and the lamp usage hours. Is there any way to explain that?

keep in mind that that icon is a safe guard from inadvertantly turning off the pj, because shut down takes a long time and a mistaken touch of that button during a superbowl or movie could prove to be perceivably catastrophic>

Yay! I finally got my new theater set up. I'm so blown away by the H78DC3.


Only one thing is confusing me at this point...

I connected my Scientific Atlanta 8300HD to my Denon AVR-3806 using HDMI, and then ran an HDMI to DVI cable to the Optoma. My cable box told me that my HDTV is not HDCP compliant, and that I cannot use DVI. What the heck is this mess? I know the H78DC3 is HDCP compliant, and the Denon too for that matter. Even the cable is supposed to pass along the copy protection. Am I the victim of yet another one of Time Warner's shortcomings, or is there something I'm missing here???

By the way, HD still looks great over component. Luckilly for me, the AVR-3806 can upconvert all inputs to HDMI, so I didn't have to run another cable (Ugh...that would have been terrible...)

Any ideas on my HDMI dillemah?

-Nate
I've the same problem and I have the SA8300HD connected directly to the OPtoma thru HDMI with no luck.

keep in mind that that icon is a safe guard from inadvertantly turning off the pj, because shut down takes a long time and a mistaken touch of that button during a superbowl or movie could prove to be perceivably catastrophic>
You cannot turn that off. The only good way to get a discrete ON and a discrete OFF (including skipping the double prompt) is to use a AV-RS232. One can use a macro on a programmable remote, but it's problematic and may turn it off, then back on. See disclaimer, not trying to sell, it's just the way it is, it's why I made the thing. Cheers, Scott

best screen for the optom h79. stewart firehawk? what gain?

Jim....I have the Stewart StudioTek 130 and is a great match. My room is 100% light controlled.

Kevin

I have an optoma H79 and i have been using a panamax 5300 for surg protection, and I have been looking for a similar surge protector for my pioneer plasma. In so doing, I have read some interesting info about the monster cable 5100. I have read how it cleans up the image, and all sorts of fantastic stuff. So I am now considering putting the panamax on the pioneer, and getting one of these monster 5100's for the optoma, partially to clean up ota broadcasts, and also satellite. Is anyone using one of these in their system, and is this all hype? Is it even possible for a surge protector to do this?

I asked in this thread, because I dont care what results it has on any tv, I only care how it may affect my precious H79. And allot of my ota is very goasted, hoping this may help>

And I've got a low mileage bridge I'd be willing to sell you . . .


I have read some interesting info about the monster cable 5100. I have read how it cleans up the image, and all sorts of fantastic stuff. >

Here is an interesting review on cables including Monster

http://www.pcworld.com/reviews/article/0,aid,121777,00.asp


I was fairly aware that the cable myth was some what debunked. But i am still confused about about the surge protector/ "noise suppressor" urban ledgand???

Here is an interesting review on cables including Monster

http://www.pcworld.com/reviews/article/0,aid,121777,00.asp


Cost of the Monoprice 25ft DVI-HDMI cable connecting my H78DC3 to my Oppo DVD player: $29.

Cost of a Monster Brand cable same length: $249.

Difference: None.

It's been driven in to the ground here but this is one topic that's worth bringing up over and over - "premium" cables are the biggest scam in the A/V industry. It's near criminal that companies like Monster and Best Buy team up on this kind of crap; cables and accessories are a huge part of their profit margins. Best Buy can make more profit off the cables than the TV they sell with them! :)

You should have read the $6 mains flex Vs the $1995 speaker cable over on the 'over $20,000' forum which was conducted by Mr Poindexter - much the same results. :)

Gary

I have had my H79 in place for about 2 months, and I am very happywith it. I had it professionally installed and calibrated, and to my non-expert eyes it looks breathtaking. The pj is ceiling mounted about 16 feet back from a firehawk 100", and the lens is maybe 6 inches above the top line of the screen. However, one obvious flaw is that the picture is noticeably wider on the bottom than the top. If you line up the width at the top, the bottom of the image extends 1.0-1.5 inches beyond the border on each side. I thought this was what lens shift is designed to avoid. A, I wrong?

Anyway, if my installer didn't get this right, I would not trust him to fix it. Meanwhile, the instructions are no help at all. So, will someone please give a me a step-by-step giude to center and align the image to the screen, given my above-described setup?

I have had my H79 in place for about 2 months, and I am very happywith it. I had it professionally installed and calibrated, and to my non-expert eyes it looks breathtaking. The pj is ceiling mounted about 16 feet back from a firehawk 100", and the lens is maybe 6 inches above the top line of the screen. However, one obvious flaw is that the picture is noticeably wider on the bottom than the top. If you line up the width at the top, the bottom of the image extends 1.0-1.5 inches beyond the border on each side. I thought this was what lens shift is designed to avoid. A, I wrong?

Anyway, if my installer didn't get this right, I would not trust him to fix it. Meanwhile, the instructions are no help at all. So, will someone please give a me a step-by-step giude to center and align the image to the screen, given my above-described setup?

sounds like you need to correct the keystone, probabley the verticle keystone in the menue. If this is it, it is pretty simple, push the menu button scroll through the boxes till you find the keystone option, i think it's the third box, click on the verticle keystone, then push arrow left and right till the picture straightens up.

Some H7*s can exist outside of the screen area and have the lens shift place it inside the screen with no keystone, but some can't, so maybe your model is a little too high (and tilted down) and that's why you're getting some keystoning. I take it the lens shift is at it's maximum right now?

It's possible that your pj may have to be lowered down at least 6ins in order to eliminate the keystone effect you currently have (or raise the screen to compensate).

Is the pj tilted down noticably? If you could straighten it up to get the image square again, that would further prove that your pj is mounted too high.

Gary

I agree with Gary.
You have one of 2 things occurring,
1) Your vertical keystone is not at 0 and it is attempting to correct for a tilt that does not exist. Use the V.Keystone button on the remote. If it is not at 0, make it so. You can also try a different value to "fix" your issue, but that would not be recommended.
2) Your projector is not perpendicular to the screen. I would start with the assumption that your wall is plumb enough. Place a level on the projector, if it isn't level or very close, that needs to be fixed. Once level, use the screen shift to get the image where you need it. If you cannot shift that far, you need to get your installer around to "talk"!

Good luck.

I have had my H79 in place for about 2 months, and I am very happywith it. I had it professionally installed and calibrated, and to my non-expert eyes it looks breathtaking. The pj is ceiling mounted about 16 feet back from a firehawk 100", and the lens is maybe 6 inches above the top line of the screen. However, one obvious flaw is that the picture is noticeably wider on the bottom than the top. If you line up the width at the top, the bottom of the image extends 1.0-1.5 inches beyond the border on each side. I thought this was what lens shift is designed to avoid. A, I wrong?

Anyway, if my installer didn't get this right, I would not trust him to fix it. Meanwhile, the instructions are no help at all. So, will someone please give a me a step-by-step giude to center and align the image to the screen, given my above-described setup?

No really MONSTER is better!

OK I can't say that with a straight face :-).

Dude the only thing that a multiphase power supply will do is regulate the power coming into the device you are using. What this means is it clips or sometimes (depending on the device and how much you spend) enhances the dips so they are no longer dips. This is called conditioning your power. It is generally not a bad thing to do. However, I could not see it having any effect in picture quality as most of the power supplies for any digital device convert AC to DC and in doing so condition their own power. If a power strip is rated to help with brown outs (most are not. This is usually reserved for UPS) then I could see it as being benificial. Stopping SPIKES is the most effective use of surge suppressors.

The MONSTER power centers could actually help in maintaining a good sound quality in analog sound reproduction as they store power for later release when they see a dip.

Can the H78DC3 stretch 480i letterboxed content to fill a 16x9 screen?

For example SciFi broadcasts Stargate and Battlestar Galactica in a widescreen letterbox format.

I was about to buy a Mitsubishi HC3000U when I found out that the needed zoom modes are only available for progressive signals.

The H78DC3 was my second choice (mainly due to price) and will also throw the correct image from my current mount location.

can someone explain the H78DC3's lens shift. Attached is a screenshot from the Optoma User's Guide which shows for some reason a "floor mount" scenario...

A Normal Lens Shift (shows image shifted up 25% or so)
B -100% (shows center of image centered to screen)
C + 100% (shows bottom of screen at lens)

this indicates the PJ has a large natural offset if it's correct.

Can the shift allow TOP SHELF mounted (top of screen, shift down) or will it have to be INVERTED to do this (ie. like a typical ceiling mount)? The diagram is very confusing (if it's even correct) and i want it almost FLUSH against the ceiling.

Thanks in advance.

It's really simple, the explanation makes it look confusing. The projector has no offset and can be placed anywhere inside the screen height (and ever so slightly above or below it). You can shelf mount it at top-of-screen height without inverting it. Mounting it flush against the ceiling is only an option if your screen is mounted that high, otherwise you'll have to use an extender to lower the projector down to at least top-of-screen height.

thanks. that diagram is really confusing!

so B on the diagram really should be labeled "neutral shift" (lens shift 50% at midpoint)

i have a low ceiling (basement) so this is great (as opposed to the HD72, etc).

Calibration with HDMI for a non DVD source:

Does anyone know about any special approaches to calibrate if you using HDMI via an HD cable box?

It appears the gamma settings are available but there is no contrast/brightness available.

I see many people discussing their calibrations via a DVD source but I'm focusing strictly on HDMI with a HD cable box as the source.

Am I missing something or is this just not an option via HDMI?

Technically, the only way to calibrate with a HD box is to feed it a RF HD signal with test patterns. The Sencore signal generators will do HD RF, but is the only one I know of and it's $$$. The only other alternative is to catch (or record via DVR) the HD provider's HD test patterns broadcast occasionally. For example Comcast here provides INHD and INHD has a short show called "Home Theater Tuneup" or something close. Those type programs will give some typically *very* limited patterns to allow brighntess and contrast, color and tint sometimes IIRC.

On the other hand, HDMI is digital so if one calibrates that input you might be able to get decently close with a different pure digital source (i.e. Signal Generator, SDI DVD box, etc.), YMMV.

Hope that helps, Scott

Thank you for your response.

Okay, I'm a little confused but I believe you were suggesting calibrate via the DVD using HDMI and then it should also be applicable for the HD cable sources too. Correct?

I've always wondered if that would in fact be applicable via HDMI for both DVD and the HD cable box. My concern is that you could do an accurate calibration for DVD but it wouldn't necessarily be as useful for the cable box HD sources.

Would an Accucal calibration meet your standard and use an RF HD signal? Is that one direct source solution?

Okay, I'm a little confused but I believe you were suggesting calibrate via the DVD using HDMI and then it should also be applicable for the HD cable sources too. Correct? Not exactly but..I've always wondered if that would in fact be applicable via HDMI for both DVD and the HD cable box. My concern is that you could do an accurate calibration for DVD but it wouldn't necessarily be as useful for the cable box HD sources. It will be closer than no calibration on teh digital input. It's important to note I said SDI which is a unconverted YCbCr digital signal from teh DVD player through a SDI to DVI/HDMI converter (Lumagen HDP in my case) which is about as un-messed witha DVD signal as you can get. Point is, you are approaching a poor-mans signal generator, at leat for gray.Would an Accucal calibration meet your standard and use an RF HD signal? Is that one direct source solution?I presume you meant *Accupel* (Accucal is Jeff Meier's calibration software for the EyeOnePro). Accupel singal generator is a fine instrument, but it does not have an RF output to feed a Cable box a "cable HD" signal. The Accupel woudl however give a perfect HDMI signal into the PJ's HDMI for calibration purposes, but it cuts the HD box out of the video chain.

You've just got to pick your evil. Personally, I believe if you have a nice DVD player with HDMI out, you can calibrate with it, then feed that port the HD sat box. Watch for the "tuneup show" and tweak a little there if it's way off then go with it. If you are seeking perfection, it will cost you :)

Not exactly but.. It will be closer than no calibration on teh digital input. It's important to note I said SDI which is a unconverted YCbCr digital signal from teh DVD player through a SDI to DVI/HDMI converter (Lumagen HDP in my case) which is about as un-messed witha DVD signal as you can get. Point is, you are approaching a poor-mans signal generator, at leat for gray.I presume you meant *Accupel* (Accucal is Jeff Meier's calibration software for the EyeOnePro). Accupel singal generator is a fine instrument, but it does not have an RF output to feed a Cable box a "cable HD" signal. The Accupel woudl however give a perfect HDMI signal into the PJ's HDMI for calibration purposes, but it cuts the HD box out of the video chain.

You've just got to pick your evil. Personally, I believe if you have a nice DVD player with HDMI out, you can calibrate with it, then feed that port the HD sat box. Watch for the "tuneup show" and tweak a little there if it's way off then go with it. If you are seeking perfection, it will cost you :)

I think he is refering to my calibration service. I have a Sencore VP-403C that allows me to generate ATSC and NTSC RF test patterns. My software is actually i1 Pro DCS (Display Calibration Software). AccuCal is my company.

Jeff, thanks for the clairification on Software vs. Company name. I have it listed incorrectly in my Calibration DVD documentation Appendix incorrectly and will fix it.

And romanesq, having Jeff do it would certaintly be a good solution I'm sure. He is using one of the Sencore devices I was talking about.

how about this new gennum scaler on the new h81 will it be compatible w/ the h79, will it improve pq, will it be worth $2000 as an upgrade? or should i hold tight to the h79 until the dlp's get the wobulated chip sets out of their system and go true 1080p? I love my H79 but you all know that urge.

The HD81 is true 1080 - I didn't think there were any wobulated front projectors?

Gary

Question for you veteran H78DC3 owners (I'm leaning toward this projector even though its about $1000 more than my budget lol)

My question is does the H78DC3 have the lumes to be solid in my room at the screen size I currently have?

I have a 1.3 gain, 133" screen that sits 24" off the ground. 10 ft ceilings (is that a problem with ceiling mounting? extension?) and the room has about 24 feet to work with (from back wall to screen to I can mount it pretty much anywhere in there).

I don't know if the H78DC3 has enough lumes for that big of a screen. I have total control of all light in my room since it's a dedicated theater room. It would be great is I could use my old perma wall Da-Lite screen but at worst case I could mask a smaller image on the 133" screen.

Any help would be appreciated....I really want to finally finish off the equipment part of my room and I just can't decide on that projector lol

The HD81 is true 1080 - I didn't think there were any wobulated front projectors?

Gary


according to this site the new 1080 p h81 is wobulated http://www.cnet.com.au/hometheatre/projectors/0,39026003,40059457,00.htm

I think it's incorrect - the same link was posted in another thread somewhere I believe, but all other info says it's the new true 1080 chip.

Gary

Laking,

I am using the H78DC3 on a Flat white (behr ultra pure white) wall at 118"s. I would think that the falt white wall has 0 to maybe even possible negative gain. At 118" it still looks awesome until I add some ambient lighting. Since this is a flat white wall it does nothing toward controlling the effects of ambient lighting.

I would think that in a Light controoled room you would not have an issue running at 133" you will more than likely want to run in Bright mode though. I am running the H78 in econo in my current setup if that helps any..

I just purchased a H78dc3 and was wondering what ceiling mount would work best in my situation. I have a smaller theater space that is 13'x18' with only a 7' ceiling. The projector will probably be mounted around 14 feet from the screen. I believe I need a low profile mount and the one that shipped with the projector will definately not work. Its the extendable Optoma ceiling mount #2002N and essentially looks like something you would use if you need 12-24 inches of drop (the type with a pipe).

Any recomendations on a more low profile mount?

Also I've been narrowing it down to a 96"x54" 16x9 screen seems to be about as big as you'd want to go in this space. The room is totally light controlled. Any thoughts on how large this projector will display?

Regards,

billmac

I use a chief mount and love it. Lots of flexibility for adjustments...quality product.
I'd have to measure but I think the chief flush mounted to the ceiling adds about
1.5" to the ceiling to center of lens measurement.

I'm also 14' back and projecting (H79) on a 110" diag. screen with ceiling height of
about 7.5'.

BMack,

I am using the H78 @ 118" diag 16:9 @14'. This works very nicely. My room is 14 foot wide with built in shelving and a place for the screen. My ceiling is @8'.

This setup works extemely well and you will want to be nearly flush mount with your PJ just to have the image high enough.

thanks for the feedback. I just ordered the chief mount mentioned above to get the projector up close to the ceiling. Once I get that setup I can see what a 110" display will look like.

Billmac

how much drop does the lateral shift mechanism for the chief mount add?

i think i'll be ordering these tomorrow... this PJ is alot LARGER than my previous two PJs!

this PJ is alot LARGER than my previous two PJs!

It is HUGE!

Mine came today and I was shocked when I got it out of the box. It makes the Infocus X1 it is replacing look tiny!

The lateral shift adds about another inch of drop.

Here is a picture (http://www.kevinandjudy.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core:ShowItem&g2_itemId=906) of the H78DC3 mounted to a Chief universal plate with the lateral shift bracket option.

The lateral shift option is JUST the part with the white sticker.

thanks for the pics... i'll be placing an order today.

I have a OPPO Dvd Player connected to Optoma H78 via DVI. I want to connect my notebook using the component video input. Do I need a converter or only a cable VGA / Video Component?

You can use a VGA to BNC adapter. Got mine from an AVS sponsor Here (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10203&cs_id=1020304&p_id=566&seq=1&format=2&style=)

Good price and it works!

Folks,

I need some advice from those of you with experience positioning the H78.

I got my the chief mount today and installed and tested my new H78 for the first time (flush with the ceiling). My theater is not quite to the drywall stage yet but I have the ceiling location built out to support the projector and power and cable conduit run. It's not the brightest projector I've seen but the initial tests looked good. for the initial test I used a pioneer DVD player (434) driving thru component video.

Now I'm trying to determine the best screen size and location to go with for this project. I hung some CCC up across the whole target wall and played with all the settings on the projector. Vertical offset worked OK with my low ceiling. The room is approximately 13' x18' with only a 7'2" ceiling.

I was originally guessing I would go with a 96"x54", 16x9 screen which seems to make sense and fit into the room leaving enough space on each side for the left and right speakers. The screen with be Acoustically Transparent so the center speaker will be directly behind the screen.

With the projector mounted at 14 feet I was easily able to hit the original target I outlined. The problem is that I'm a little overwhelmed with all the variables at this point. I've played with all the projection calculators and I'm not sure what the best fit would be. Bigger screen, smaller screen, leave it at 96", closer to screen, farther from screen???

I also trying to keep the projector mounted directly over one of the two rows so that taller folks don't run the risk of hitting it if it's mounted directly over the ailse between the two rows.

Any thoughts on details of the H78 I might need to take into account when selecting screen size and throw distance. Is it better to keep the projector closer to the screen and stick with a screen size that somewhat reasonable?

Regards,

billmac

I had posted earlier about trying to get a Harmony remote control to turn off an H78. After a few trials and resulting errors, I think I've found a solution, if anyone else has the same problem.

The device mode of the Harmony software (or website) will let you adjust for power on/off problems One screen give the option of sending 3 commands for power toggle Sending 2 consectcutive power toggle commands didn't work since it takes a fraction of a second for the power off-mute screen to appear. I ended up inserting a useless command (volume down on H78-there's no audio hooked to it) between 2 power toggle commands. That seems to create enough of a delay to let the second power toggle turn the PJ off.

billmac, one of things I love about the H78 is the auto zoom feature. Can't believe how much I use it. My room is almost the same dimension but I have 10' high ceilings. But from a throw, I have my PJ about 12'+ back from the screen. I have a 106' but find it a tad too large and use the zoom in to probably about 96' for 4:3 and 1:78 ratio. However, for 2:35 OAR I zoom out fully. I would suspect that with the advent on high def DVD (whichever formats wins), that I might go back to use the full 106' again.

Net: don't forget the power of the zoom! So I definitely wouldn't go smaller than 96'. I have a 106' greywolf and am very happy with the setup now. I personally don't find the part of the screen that is not used to be distracting. So i would think either a 96' or a 106' and realize that you might be zooming in would be okay. But the 106' would depend if you can handle the unused screen area if you decrease the image size.

hope this helps!

billmac, one of things I love about the H78 is the auto zoom feature. Can't believe how much I use it. My room is almost the same dimension but I have 10' high ceilings. But from a throw, I have my PJ about 12'+ back from the screen. I have a 106' but find it a tad too large and use the zoom in to probably about 96' for 4:3 and 1:78 ratio. However, for 2:35 OAR I zoom out fully. I would suspect that with the advent on high def DVD (whichever formats wins), that I might go back to use the full 106' again.

Net: don't forget the power of the zoom! So I definitely wouldn't go smaller than 96'. I have a 106' greywolf and am very happy with the setup now. I personally don't find the part of the screen that is not used to be distracting. So i would think either a 96' or a 106' and realize that you might be zooming in would be okay. But the 106' would depend if you can handle the unused screen area if you decrease the image size.

hope this helps!


if you are distracted by the unused screen, there are companies that sell inexpensive manual masking devices, as well as moderately more expensive electronic masking devices. ask around here for them, I think I got a link from here, you can also check google.

In fact, there's a power buy for AVS members from one of the masking system manufacturers:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7166500#post7166500



if you are distracted by the unused screen, there are companies that sell inexpensive manual masking devices, as well as moderately more expensive electronic masking devices. ask around here for them, I think I got a link from here, you can also check google.

thanks for the input. I have some time over the next week or so (before sheetrock starts) to experiment with PJ placement on the ceiling and screen size. Maybe I'll try placing the PJ right over the first row of seats, which is 12 foot out. I can physically go from 96" horizontal to maybe 120" before I run into the left and right speaker area.

I guess I was thinking closer might be better as far as PJ distance.

I forgot to mention I'm building a false wall to hide all the speakers and allow for creative masking of the screen. once I get the hang of it I might be able to set up some black GOM panels that can manually be positioned for various types of content.

I forgot to mention I'm building a false wall to hide all the speakers and allow for creative masking of the screen. once I get the hang of it I might be able to set up some black GOM panels that can manually be positioned for various types of content.

We have simular room measurements and I decided to go with a 110" diag
screen with false wall and a velvet shadow box all around the screen. The
speaker dimensions really determine how BIG you can go, here's a
couple of pics.

looks good.

How did you end up building the screens (panels) that cover up your speakers?

billmac

looks good.

How did you end up building the screens (panels) that cover up your speakers?

billmac

Thanks..

The panels are made up of straight 1x2 lumber with GOM stretched, stapled and
then velcro'd to the false wall to keep them in place. Here's a better shot of the
panels:

stoked,

the H78DC3 (as, I assume, do its H7x brethren) loves HTPCs. It will sync to 48Hz, 50Hz, 60Hz, all you need. And it doesn't framrate-convert either, it actually resyncs the colorwheel and you get perfectly smooth playback from an HTPC. 1:1 pixel mapping is a given and is absolutely trivial to achieve at any refresh rate with or without Powerstrip. Its total HTPC friendliness and multi-refresh capabilities are among the strengths that get mentioned far too little.

Are you sure it resyncs the colorwheel? I've tried using a Lumagen VisionPro HDP scaler with inverse telescene capability to feed the H79 at 47.95, 59.94, & 71.92Hz with film based R1 DVD. The PJ did resync and lock to all rates, but slow pans strobed at 48 and strobed horribly at 72. When I spoke with Lumagen about it, they said they were pretty sure (but not definative) the colorwheel did not properly adjust and I would just have to live with the judder from 60Hz refresh.

If you have had a different experience, I probably need to consider that it might be the Lumagen with the problem.

Comments?

Thanks,
Eric

My only experience is with an HTPC, never used a Lumagen. I'm feeding it 48Hz for film sourced NTSC discs and motion is absolutely smooth. Don't know what you mean by "strobing" though. Motion at 24 frames a second is never completely fluid, but that's a limitation of film and is visible in a cinema as well. The judder associated with 60Hz playback of film is definitely gone. I've never tried 72Hz, but unless the color wheel actually resyncs to that it will be frame-converted and juddery. As for 48, 50 and 60Hz the resyncing of the CW is very audible.

since the H78DC3 userguide is spartan..... quick question please....

can you connect DVI out from a HTPC to the BNC inputs given the right adapter (DVI to VGA to BNC breakout)?

i'm doing this now analog VGA to BNC and the scan seems to go from "digital BNC" to "analog BNC" but i'd like to know for sure before reconfiguring (if the ATI card gives me hassles).

thanks!

chinch,

You can only do that if the DVI output is a DVI-I with the analog signal on it and available. You would then need a DVI-I to RGBHV VGA adapter hooked to a VGA to RGBHV BNC cable.

The signal must be analog for input to the BNCs.

thanks Dave. i'll do some searching on my ATI X800 video card. i have all adapters (the card comes with the DVI to VGA adapters) just not the time to try it yet.

I'd like to keep the HDCP port free for future uses, otherwise i have an HDMI cable run and have DVI-HDMI adapters on either end if needed.


ps - i've always been meaning to ask where abouts in Etown are you... i graduated from the College there a while back... nice town :)

I am one block from the College on S Locust St. How long ago did you graduate?

Let me know if you need any help. I am in NJ a lot doing calibrations, etc.

Hey,

I've been seriously looking at either one of these to match with the H79 and
was wondering if anyone had any experience with either of these two materials?
Vutec says the BriteWhite comes in around 1.5gain and the PearlBrite at 3.1.

Dave,

If the room is light controlled I'd go with the BW 1.5 gain or the Dalite Cinema Vision fabric. Also the Stewart ST130 if it's in your budget?

Dave,

If the room is light controlled I'd go with the BW 1.5 gain or the Dalite Cinema Vision fabric. Also the Stewart ST130 if it's in your budget?

Hey Dave,

Yep, light controlled with a 13" velvet shadow box. A Stewart is doable and have
FH, ST130, Ultra 150 and CV samples. (Don't have the vutec samples yet). I did
notice a slight sheen on the Ultra150 on bright scenes (like hockey) and am
wondering if this sheen is just more pronounced because of the small sample, or
if the sheen will disapate somewhat with the full sized material? I really like the
little extra punch of a 1.5 gain screen.

The Dalite VS is nice too, but is not available in a fixed screen, as far as I can
tell? :(

Unfortunately I think the sheen will remain and I have seen it many times. Some people like it.

The best of them all is the Stewart ST130 IMHO, but the Dalite CV is close behind. We are also running a special on the Vutec Silverstar, give me a call for details.

Yeah, it doesn't look like they offer VideoSpectra with the fixed frames:(

If the Projectorcentral screen material comparison is anything to go by the Draper M1300 is close to the Stewart ST130 material:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/projector_screens_brightness.htm

As the ST130 measured at 130%, and the others are relative to that, I would think the results are reasonable for a comparison to be made.

Gary

Gary,

I'd agree with that, but what I didn't like about the Draper is that you can see the image thru the screen, thus assuming you're losing some light.

Well the SilverStar is little too over the edge for my liking... The Draper 1300 is
very close to the ST130. Too my eye, it's image is not quite as "crisp"
as the ST130. The Carada BW is nice, but when compared to the ST130 the
image isn't quite as vibrant... a little dull maybe.

I should be getting the BriteWhite samples in a couple of days, will be interesting
to see how it holds up to the rest.

Here's a full "blue" field from AVIA at eye level and viewing distance. Digital pic's
are not the best, but it does give you a flavor.. :)

"I'll take the Stewart ST130 for $150, Bob";)!!!...................

My only experience is with an HTPC, never used a Lumagen. I'm feeding it 48Hz for film sourced NTSC discs and motion is absolutely smooth. Don't know what you mean by "strobing" though. Motion at 24 frames a second is never completely fluid, but that's a limitation of film and is visible in a cinema as well. The judder associated with 60Hz playback of film is definitely gone. I've never tried 72Hz, but unless the color wheel actually resyncs to that it will be frame-converted and juddery. As for 48, 50 and 60Hz the resyncing of the CW is very audible.

Liersi thanks for your input. You're right, resyncing of the color wheel is very audible. Now that I have everything working properly with a firmware upgrade, 48Hz from the Lumagen with inverse telecine of film based material is smooth, rich, and very pleasing. Finding that the H79 resyncs the color wheel instead of re-clocking is a pleasant surprise given that I had not considered this feature during purchase.

I'm now further engrained into the Happy H79 Owners club.

The combination of:
Optoma H79
Stewart GrayHawk
Lumagen VisionPro HDP
Oppo 971H (SDI modded)

Makes for a very compelling movie experience

Eric

"I'll take the Stewart ST130 for $150, Bob";)!!!...................

;).. Ya it seem I'm moving in that direction. :) Will be interesting to compare
the vutec's.. Due diligence and all...

Gary,

I'd agree with that, but what I didn't like about the Draper is that you can see the image thru the screen, thus assuming you're losing some light.

Hi Dave,

I think I have some material left over (I made a DIY scope screen with the material), so I'll have to see if mine is the same (I don't see why it shouldn't be), but even so, it's still reflecting almost as much as the ST130, and more than the others, which is what counts.

I wonder if having some black-out cloth behind it will make any difference? I had tested the viability of 2.35:1 by stretching blackout cloth over the frame first, then fitted the M1300 over the top (was too lazy to remove the BO cloth) when I dediced it was OK to do it.

Gary

Hi guys,
I have the Optoma H78 and I am very pleased with the performance. I would like to find a 2'-3' white power cord to match the projector and my ceiling. Any ideas??

Thanks,
Sean

Hi guys,
I have the Optoma H78 and I am very pleased with the performance. I would like to find a 2'-3' white power cord to match the projector and my ceiling. Any ideas??

Thanks,
Sean

Not only one, but 10 of them!!!! :)

http://cgi.ebay.ca/10-Power-Plugs-Computer-Power-Cord-White-Apple-PeeCee_W0QQitemZ5873321445QQcategoryZ45342QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewIt em

I have had my H78DC3 for about 2 weeks now.

Last night was our first viewing of CSI Miami.

Wow!

That show really let me see how much better the picture was then my X1. My wife even commented how much better the picture looked.

I am a happy H78DC3 owner.

Hi Dave,

I think I have some material left over (I made a DIY scope screen with the material), so I'll have to see if mine is the same (I don't see why it shouldn't be), but even so, it's still reflecting almost as much as the ST130, and more than the others, which is what counts.

I wonder if having some black-out cloth behind it will make any difference? I had tested the viability of 2.35:1 by stretching blackout cloth over the frame first, then fitted the M1300 over the top (was too lazy to remove the BO cloth) when I dediced it was OK to do it.

Gary


When I switched from the Draper to the Stewart I saw an immediate improvement, FWIW.

I've used a fixed frame Stewart 1.3 gain screen ever since I built my first home theater, about 7 years ago. I've used it with LED PJ's, a CRT PJ and now an H78. It has worked great with all of them. They are pricey, but also very good. If Vutec ever makes a SilverStar with flexible material (basement accessability issues), I might give it a try but otherwise I'll stick with the Stewart

...I've used it with LED PJ's, ...

Wow, are those out already:eek:!!!

OOPS--meant LCD, though LED looks very promising as a light source for DLP's.

Wow, are those out already:eek:!!!

I knew that. I was just being a PITA;)!!!

When I switched from the Draper to the Stewart I saw an immediate improvement, FWIW.

Hi Dave,

What kind of improvements did you see? There was a noticable improvement in brightness and colours over the BO cloth (which was to be expected), but that was a 25% increase in gain. The Stewart is only 5% more reflective so I wonder what kind of improvements you could see.

Compared to a 1.2 gain Beamax screen, the ST130 looked very similar, but showed a slight pink tint in the Beamax screeen, which suggests a slight colour shift. The ST130 is probably a reference material as screens go though.

Gary

I would say brighter with more of a "punch" to it and the colors seemed richer and more 3D if you will. Very good with no color shifting, hotspots, etc.

I'll have to see if I can get a sample of the Stewart ST130 material, as that sounds like more than a 5% increase in reflectance could achieve. Any ideas on ST130 screen material prices Dave?

Gary.

That depends on size, framing options, etc. Give me a call for pricing:)!!!

I went with the Stewart with my 78DC3 and set it up Christmas day so I've had some time to watch it. Every person that has come through to check it out has been blown away. A few people have said "It is much nicer than I would have thought it could be".

A quick question, does anyone know where I can get a replacement remote? It seems my remote wandered off and after searching high and low I cannot find it. I sent mail to optoma but never got a response (no I do go through my junkmail and it wasn't there either).

I'm dying to calibrate the unit, but now I can't without the remote (not easily at least...)

We can probably order you one if you'd like?

On a side note, I have one of those plastic filter covers brand new in box that never had the chance to get installed before my H79 sent in for another issue. First verified $10 via PayPal (to cover shipping/handling in USA only) to harperhometheater@comcast.net gets it:D!!!

I know a few had the same issue I did when trying to open it to clean it and the small latches broke off easily:rolleyes: It fits the H77/78/79.

That depends on size, framing options, etc. Give me a call for pricing:)!!!

You salesman you. :p

I was after a rough price for material only to cover a 96" x 41" screen (plus 6ins each way for overlap), but as I'm in the UK I don't think you'll be able to supply me. I'll have to look at the UK sourced prices for it I suppose.

A good friend has the ST130/Firehawk split screen in his demo room, so if I can, I'll take my spare M1300 material along and do a direct comparison that way, just to see if it's worth upgrading too. I might try to get Hi Power sample while I'm at it.

Regards

Gary.

You salesman you. :p


Hey, what can I say..."I'm good";)!!!

hi-

i have a 96" diagonal screen and it seems the maximum distance away i can place my h78dc3 projector is about 15'. ideally, i'd like to place it about 17' away. is there any way this can be done? i was wondering if there were any lens adapters (i.e., telephoto lenses, etc) or any other solution that would work without materially degrading image quality.

thanks,
tu

I am in the process of building a home theater (7x13x30) and will be picking up a projector, cables and screen within a week. I would appreciate any members experience on using the H78DC3 with a 118” (viewable) diagonal 16:9 screen. I have been told that the H78 will not adequately illuminate this size screen without spending much more for a “Good” high gain screen, and that an HD72 or Mit 3000 would be a better choice, with picture quality that’s nearly just as good as the H78. But everything I read about the H78 on AVS seems to make it the benchmark the other are measured against, with the H78 being clearly superior in picture quality and video processing. Except for my budget and this concern over brightness, my gut says the H78 would be the right choice.
Since the room is in my basement and will be dedicated to HT viewing, I’ll have complete control over ambient lighting. I was initially considering either the Optoma HD72, Mit HC3000 or possibly the Infocus In76, but now with the fall in price and free bulb offer on the H78DC3 I’m pushing my budget,(and Wife) to consider it. I know that with a 7’ ceiling there is an offset issue with the 72 & 3000, but I figured by tilting the projector up along with a complementing tilt down of the screen, both 6 degrees, I can maintain the focal length without keystone.. Another consideration in choosing the projector is signal processing. My dvd plaver and HDTV cable box have both Component and HDMI connections and, since they will be located on the back wall, the cable run distance to the ceiling mount projector would be approximately 24+ feet. At this distance I’m not certain which cable (HDMI or component) maintains better signal quality, or how much the particular projector’s processing contributes in choosing. Bottom line, with this screen size, will I need to pay a premium for a Stewart screen to appreciate the H78 benefits over the others, or given the control I have on the ambient light could I buy a Carada BW, or even paint the wall with Behr flat white, and still appreciate all the benefits of the H78.

I appreciate any feedback…

Thanks,
Ray

I have an H77+ paired with a 118" 16:9 Carada BW screen and love the combination. I have a dedicated space with full control over ambient light. I have not seen the H7x projector with other screens but I have seen other projector/screen combinations and the H77/Carada look very good.

Mark

Ray,

With only a 7' ceiling I'd avoid the Mits HC3000 or the H72 since both have large vertical offsets. I used a NEC HT-1000 in a room with 7.5' ceiling and wasn't able to get the screen at the height it really needed to be because I had to accommodate the offset of the projector. An H78 would work much better for you in this respect.

All,

Did any of you notice the repeated stabs at DVDs during the Oscars? "Nothing can replace an eye-filling screen and full audio surround, we'll always need the theater experience." My wife and I sat in two reclining massage chairs watching the broadcast on our 102 inch screen, H79 doing beautifully, and a 7.1 surround sound system sounding incredible.

What we didn't have was yapping people, a long drive, expensive popcorn, and cramped seats.

I'll take the home theater experience every time!

Rob

Some of the stabs were directed at watching movies on computer monitors and video Ipods.

any way to replace the optoma boot screen with a user defined image?

i couldn't find this in a search

All,


What we didn't have was yapping people, a long drive, expensive popcorn, and cramped seats.

I'll take the home theater experience every time!

Rob

I agree. I took my daughter to see 'Chicken Little' & the pq was fantastic, & in focus (makes a change). And, even though the seats were comfy I felt agitated & couldn't wait for it to end. It's just so much more relaxing at home.

I've just upgraded from a 7205 to an H79 & the difference is huge. I really feel like I'm at the cinema now, rather than just watching a large screen. With the 7205 I kept on thinking I needed a bigger screen, but it turns out I just needed a punchier, more contrasty image . The H79 rocks :)

We now go to the cinema maybe once or twice a year! It was entertaining watching those Actors and Oscar Executives pleading with the audience to return to the movies! They are making a lot more cash over the dvds, we all know that. Nothing is better than sitting in your own theater, watching a H79 with a 120.5" screen in HD...The last time I went I remember towards the end of the movie a guy (old enough to know better) walked in and sat behind us. Then his cellphone rang. He says,"Dude, I am at the movies. Whats up?" Then he starts a full conversation. We all turned around and yelled at the same time. He ran out of there faster than a BluRay/HDDVD thread is closed! My point is, no jerkoffs, no expensive candy, drinks, popcorn, no people constantly getting up and walking, and no strangers talking throughout the movie. Now if those Oscar folks do not understand that, then maybe they should start facing reality... And the fact that movies will one day go straight to DVD (or some format)...

I love my H79 as well, but the reality is if the theater experience was only slightly improved, people would return the the theater. Lets face it, most folks, aren't willing or don't have the resources to have a theater in their homes. I have always dreamed of having one, so i was willing to make the sacrifice. But I think if studios and theater owners tried a little harder, the masses would return. And hey if the pressure put on them comes from us pioneer do it yourself theater owners, so be it.

If they would just realize that a quality image counts for something and people appreciate that, even if subconsciously, they would return in droves:rolleyes:

Nothing's worse than paying $7 for a popcorn and $5 for a stupid Coke after paying $9 just to get in, then the presentation sucks, sound sucks, out of focus, lines thru the image, jerks all around you crunching popcorn with their mouths open and digging in their bags like rabid hyenas, etc, etc, etc......:mad:

Give me my dedicated theater any day!!!

any way to replace the optoma boot screen with a user defined image?

i couldn't find this in a search

I am not sure as I no longer have my H79, but you can call Optoma Tech support to find out.

any way to replace the optoma boot screen with a user defined image?

i couldn't find this in a search


You mean you don't like the bad grammar (i.e. "Please wait ,warming up"). All my friends laugh at that space then comma.

LOL .... the bootup seems slower than Win2000... it's lasts sooooooo long too a nice 1280x720 graphic would be great to substitute. for some, it's probably a dead giveaway to their spouse & others they "upgraded" projectors (if they wished a stealth update) :)

Thanks Dave... i'll try to phone them later this week.

No problem Chinch. Let us know here as others may wish to do the same thing:)

Last night I turned on the projector and was awaiting it to start up when I noticed the lamp flashing indicator going off in yellow. I was surprised to see this and was thinking that maybe I had just entered into the expiration even though I think the lamp has less than a 1000 hours.

Then as I was watching this and not getting any startup I was thinking I'm going to have to exchange the bulb. I hit the side of the on/off switch once or twice and then the indicator went back to the normal blue and it started up.

Then everything was fine and my Sopranos party was back in business. But it was a strange thing. Does anyone have any experience with such on the H78DC3?

I'm wondering if this means that the bulb will really be failing shortly after its recovery.

I haven't experienced this with my H79, but you might want to reseat the
bulb. Sounds like a flaky/loose connection?

Thanks for that suggestion. That's a good idea and I'll try it. Would hate to change the bulb right now. I'm saving the new one to rotate for the World Cup.

any bargain shopper deals on bulbs right now, AVS power buys or such. Mine is approaching 1000 hours on original bulb, and all the reading would suggest the h79 has a terrible bulb qc and i dont want any surprises. I am addicted.

You mean you don't like the bad grammar (i.e. "Please wait ,warming up"). All my friends laugh at that space then comma.

Does the US H79 says "Please wait ,warming up" ???

Last night I turned on the projector and was awaiting it to start up when I noticed the lamp flashing indicator going off in yellow. I was surprised to see this and was thinking that maybe I had just entered into the expiration even though I think the lamp has less than a 1000 hours.

Then as I was watching this and not getting any startup I was thinking I'm going to have to exchange the bulb. I hit the side of the on/off switch once or twice and then the indicator went back to the normal blue and it started up.

Then everything was fine and my Sopranos party was back in business. But it was a strange thing. Does anyone have any experience with such on the H78DC3?

I'm wondering if this means that the bulb will really be failing shortly after its recovery.

It can happen a misfire is nothing to worry about if it doesn't happen often. Ive had it about 3 times over the space of about 2000h.

Daniel.

I've said it before and I'll say it again......

If you have an Optoma H7x projector, I HIGHLY suggest you get the DVI Detective from Gefen. It is only about $65 and I really think it will help with these issues from the H7x.

I just confirmed my theory once again last night with an HD Tivo and a Sony Ruby. The Ruby's DVI does not have the 5V power from it, but the H7x does. The Gefen DVI Detective isolates these two competing 5V sources and seems to make things OK. I think that 5V is bleeding into ground on the H7x's and causing these issues.

Just my humble thoughts anyway............:rolleyes:

I have spoken with Optoma Tech Support. They agreed that image bowing and aspect ratio distortion should not occurr and that the PJ needed to be sent back for repair or replacement. I popped the cover last night In the hopes that I could avoid sending it in and either dealing with down time for repair or losing my ISF calibration and run-in through infant mortality from replacement. The problem was not obvious. I suspect the DMD has somehow shifted relative to the lens, but to fix this would be far to involved for a PJ still under warranty. So back it goes.

Bottom line, yours probably needs to go back too

Oh crap I think I have the same problem. I only notice it using the computer but the start button is a little off on the border. If I zoom out it looks like the middle to left is bowed down. Film over scans on the border so I don't notice much.

John

Oh crap I think I have the same problem. I only notice it using the computer but the start button is a little off on the border. If I zoom out it looks like the middle to left is bowed down. Film over scans on the border so I don't notice much.

John
I believe image bowing is common thing with H7x. Most peoples just don't see if they use 16:9 screen because of some overcanning over borders. I don't recall seeing Deepblue's comment about his replacement if it was ok or not.

Quite often if the image square on top and the sides, but is dipping down from the middle to one side, it's an alignment problem. If the image is dipping to the left, then the pj is slightly off center to the right and twisted to the left.

It's like keystone but horizontal rather than vertical, so if the pj lens is slightly closer on one side than the other, the image will be smaller there. In your case because the image is slightly closer on the right, the image is larger on the left, but because of the offset of projection, you only see it on the bottom.

If it was bowing on both sides then that would be something else.

Gary

Hey guys. I'm sure you've heard this question a million times but to throw a 100" diagonal image how far can the projector be mounted from the screen?(what range). I am interested in the h79.

Hey guys. I'm sure you've heard this question a million times but to throw a 100" diagonal image how far can the projector be mounted from the screen?(what range). I am interested in the h79.


Check out http://www.optomausa.com/distancecalculator.asp

I would be very appreciative if someone could answer these questions for me:

1.) Does the H78's "vertical shift" command in the menu allow you to fully move a 2.35:1 widescreen image within the 16:9 frame? In other words, could I use that function to move the 2.35:1 image to the very bottom of the screen so I would just need to mask the top?

2.) Does the H78's letterbox mode do the 33% vertical stretch (necessary for using an anamorphic lens) with all input types and resolutions? Specifically, I'm interested in whether it would be available with 720p via HDMI/DVI.

Also, I'm really tempted by this PJ but a nagging concern is whether it has the necessary lumens to really provide a punchy image at 110" diagonal using a matte white or 1.3 gain screen. I'm not so much concerned about a new bulb, I'm more concerned about the brightness as the bulb ages. If you are using a unity gain screen of 106+ inches, have some decent hours on your bulb, and feel your image is plenty punchy, I'd love to hear about it just to abate my fears!

Thanks in advance. :)

1)yes. but if it's like the H77 it's manual.

2) Yes

100" Firehawk screen with 250 hours plenty bright.

Scott

Does the US H79 says "Please wait ,warming up" ???Yes ,it does.

Dan

On your first question Jeff I believe you can use the digital shift function to move the image up or down within the 16x9 frame.

Letterbox mode works perfectly for me and my H600lens

I use a 128" 2.35 Carada BW screen which likely has a gain of 1-1.2 and have no problems.

Yes ,it does.

Dan

Ok, just checking. The EU model says ThemeScene on a "cyan-ish" background.

i can't think of any reason why this shouldn't work....but it doesnt'!! i have a sony 9100es dvd player with an hdmi output...i have tried putting an adapter on the hdmi end and keeping my dvi to dvi cable in place on my optoma h79...no picture...i have tried a cable with hdmi on one end, dvi on the other....no picture...anyone know what gives? my dvi to dvi connection works fine.

JM

I took a quick look at the manual for that DVD player.

A couple of things to check.

There is an indicator light on the display panel that indicates that the DVD is outputting via HDMI is yours Lit?

There are a number of settings in the Sony set up menu that effect the HDMI output, I would try fiddling around with those some.

hi big, thanks for the response...after 45 minutes on the phone with sony and being passed thru three levels of tech help, still no answer...the hdmi of the 9100es and the optoma h79 simply will not talk to each other...no matter what resolution or configuration...very disappointing...sony was very helpful but ultimately had no answer...optoma just said talk to sony

BUMMER dude!

HDMI and DVI are still a real crap shoot. Unlike almost all other connections, you can't be sure that 2 devices hooked up with either of these will work together. I've had similar trouble with an Expressvu 9200 and Optoma H78. Even worse if I try to run it through my HDMI switching receiver. Really makes it pointless having HDMI switching.

hi big, thanks for the response...after 45 minutes on the phone with sony and being passed thru three levels of tech help, still no answer...the hdmi of the 9100es and the optoma h79 simply will not talk to each other...no matter what resolution or configuration...very disappointing...sony was very helpful but ultimately had no answer...optoma just said talk to sony


I dont know if it will help,but you might contact geffen about their hdmi/dvi detective I understand this helps with na number of compatibility issues, ranging from line voltage to hdcp.

I just had my H79 professionally calibrated and have to questions:
1. The technician was not familiar with the H79 and he only did adjustments in the Service menu 'Picture' menu for gray scale and then user 'advanced' menu for color. He noted that for 480i signals over component, it was "difficult to get the Reds properly calibrated". I later saw posts refer to adjustments in the 'ADC' screen in the service menu.
My question: Is there a setting in the ADC menu that could help with the "RED issue" OR should the advanced user menu have the same effect?

2. After the calibration I wanted to verify the settings in the service menu and make sure they were written down accurately. I made the mistake of pressing the ADC auto-calibration for Blacks while a random TV program was on.
I only discovered Guitarman's warning about the Service menu ADC auto-calibration function after the fact and now realize my stupidity.
My question: Am I hosed? Is the calibration ruined? Is there anything I can do, (e.g. full reset)? I have the Avia disk which I think has the screen you should use when pressing this button.
Help is appreciated.

HI. Just got my H78DC3 yesterday. I ordered it from COSCO and I can return it anytime if I am not 100% satisfied...

It is hard for me to have a good opinion about this PJ because the room it's in right now has just been drywalled and all the walls are kinda white...under those conditions, I honestly see no difference in Contrast versus my old X1. I certainly don't mean the X1 and the H78DC3 have the same contrast ratio, but I certainly understand better when they say you should paint you HT in dark colors. You will lose so much PQ if not...When comparing my two PJs tonight, I decided I would paint my room as dark as possible (unfortunately my wife won't accept black... :( )


The point is: if your room is not VERY dark, don't bother too much about contrast ratios, you won't notice much difference anyway.

HI. Just got my H78DC3 yesterday. I ordered it from COSCO and I can return it anytime if I am not 100% satisfied...

It is hard for me to have a good opinion about this PJ because the room it's in right now has just been drywalled and all the walls are kinda white...under those conditions, I honestly see no difference in Contrast versus my old X1. I certainly don't mean the X1 and the H78DC3 have the same contrast ratio, but I certainly understand better when they say you should paint you HT in dark colors. You will lose so much PQ if not...When comparing my two PJs tonight, I decided I would paint my room as dark as possible (unfortunately my wife won't accept black... :( )


The point is: if your room is not VERY dark, don't bother too much about contrast ratios, you won't notice much difference anyway.

Stef2:

Did you mean you ordered from "Costco" and not "Cosco"? I haven't seen the H78DC3 in their (Costco) website.

I just had my H79 professionally calibrated and have to questions:
1. The technician was not familiar with the H79 and he only did adjustments in the Service menu 'Picture' menu for gray scale and then user 'advanced' menu for color. He noted that for 480i signals over component, it was "difficult to get the Reds properly calibrated". I later saw posts refer to adjustments in the 'ADC' screen in the service menu.
My question: Is there a setting in the ADC menu that could help with the "RED issue" OR should the advanced user menu have the same effect?

2. After the calibration I wanted to verify the settings in the service menu and make sure they were written down accurately. I made the mistake of pressing the ADC auto-calibration for Blacks while a random TV program was on.
I only discovered Guitarman's warning about the Service menu ADC auto-calibration function after the fact and now realize my stupidity.
My question: Am I hosed? Is the calibration ruined? Is there anything I can do, (e.g. full reset)? I have the Avia disk which I think has the screen you should use when pressing this button.
Help is appreciated.

He should have noted down the numbers for you. I did a projector for someone that was at my house yesterday and took the time to write down every number for 3 different tunings. Even the user contrast,brightness, color, tint whatever. I think you have a beef with the calibrator. Yes you tripped up but he left you know stop gap.

About the red, every Hxx series Optomas needs red-gain pushed up about 15 numbers and then the blue and green is tuned to it. Give him that tip if you can get him back out to the house.

Stef2:

Did you mean you ordered from "Costco" and not "Cosco"? I haven't seen the H78DC3 in their (Costco) website.


AS you can see from my signature, I live in Canada. And yes the H78DC3 is still available on their Canadian web site for a very good price, I've just checked one minute ago!

AS you can see from my signature, I live in Canada. And yes the H78DC3 is still available on their Canadian web site for a very good price, I've just checked one minute ago!

Okay... mystery solved. I went to the Canadian Costco site and found it. Did you also get the Graywolf screen? How do you like the screen?

He should have noted down the numbers for you. I did a projector for someone that was at my house yesterday and took the time to write down every number for 3 different tunings. Even the user contrast,brightness, color, tint whatever. I think you have a beef with the calibrator. Yes you tripped up but he left you know stop gap.

Tom, thank you much for the response.
I was not clear in my post: The technician DID write the numbers down after he did the cal. I was just in the service menu verifying them when I made my error, (curiosity/cat). :o
-----So, what I think is implied here is that I can just put back in the settings he wrote down and I should be fine?

A side thought in regards to calibration: From reading Tom/Guitarman's and others' many posts, it seems that each piece of equipment has its own technical nuances and one would be better served from hiring a calibration tech that is already familiar with YOUR particular piece of equipment. I’d be interested in others’ thoughts on this.


Thanks again,
Jason

A side thought in regards to calibration: From reading Tom/Guitarman's and others' many posts, it seems that each piece of equipment has its own technical nuances and one would be better served from hiring a calibration tech that is already familiar with YOUR particular piece of equipment. I’d be interested in others’ thoughts on this.

This refers to individual projectors. If your calibrator does D6500 you'll be fine. You just can't plug in others numbers and expect it to be correct. If your calibrator knows what he's doing he should be able to get to D65, it just a matter of how long it will take him.

Scott

1. The technician was not familiar with the H79 and he only did adjustments in the Service menu 'Picture' menu for gray scale and then user 'advanced' menu for color. He noted that for 480i signals over component, it was "difficult to get the Reds properly calibrated". I later saw posts refer to adjustments in the 'ADC' screen in the service menu.
My question: Is there a setting in the ADC menu that could help with the "RED issue" OR should the advanced user menu have the same effect?

Service menu picture and user menu advanced RGB settings are same thing. They work 1:1.

ADC works only for progressive component signal. It has no effect what so ever for other signal types.

By the way. I've been struggling with interlaced component signal and i haven't been able to find any settings that work (other signal types are easier). Colors are really hard to get look good. I've heard that color decoder is adjusted for colder color temp (9300k i think), so it is not very easy to adjust for D65. What service menu picture numbers your calibrator end up with for 480i component signal?



2. After the calibration I wanted to verify the settings in the service menu and make sure they were written down accurately. I made the mistake of pressing the ADC auto-calibration for Blacks while a random TV program was on.
I only discovered Guitarman's warning about the Service menu ADC auto-calibration function after the fact and now realize my stupidity.
My question: Am I hosed? Is the calibration ruined?

Only progressive component should have been affected by this.



Is there anything I can do, (e.g. full reset)? I have the Avia disk which I think has the screen you should use when pressing this button.
Help is appreciated.
I wouldn't suggest full reset. So far you have only done something that affect progressive component. Full reset will probably set every signal type back to defaults.

I think you can get ADC corrected by using AVIA white and black fields but never ever touch magenta auto calibration because it will ruin settings so that you probably need to send it back to factory to fix it. Still it is very likely that ADC settings are different than what they were when pj was calibrated, so your component progressive signal may not perform D65 anymore (anyway progressive component is already pretty well adjusted in factory so it may not be so far away from optimal settings).

Okay... mystery solved. I went to the Canadian Costco site and found it. Did you also get the Graywolf screen? How do you like the screen?

Just as an FYI, I am pretty sure if you read the fine print on the Canadian site, they only sell to Costco members located in Canada...

But yes a good price, it dropped $700 just about 2 months ago, but alas too late for me, I'm holding out for a H81 now! :cool:

Okay... mystery solved. I went to the Canadian Costco site and found it. Did you also get the Graywolf screen? How do you like the screen?



Yes I also got the Graywolf screen. Unfortunately it is much too small for my needs. What I dislike about this screen are all the ?sparklies? you see when watching a movie on it. But the material seems to be of good quality. As stated in one of my posts above, the Graywolf's capacity to reject ambient light and reflections doesn't apper to be very good (at least in my setup). With absolutely no lights on in the room, the reflections from my (currently) pale-grayish walls make the picture look VERY washed out...I would certainly not keep this PJ if my room was to remain as it is. As for the H81, since there is no time limit to COSTCO's return policy, I might send my H78DC3 back in a couple of months for a little upgrade, who knows... :)

Yes I also got the Graywolf screen. Unfortunately it is much too small for my needs. What I dislike about this screen are all the ?sparklies? you see when watching a movie on it. But the material seems to be of good quality. As stated in one of my posts above, the Graywolf's capacity to reject ambient light and reflections doesn't apper to be very good (at least in my setup). With absolutely no lights on in the room, the reflections from my (currently) pale-grayish walls make the picture look VERY washed out...I would certainly not keep this PJ if my room was to remain as it is. As for the H81, since there is no time limit to COSTCO's return policy, I might send my H78DC3 back in a couple of months for a little upgrade, who knows... :)

No time limit? :rolleyes:

They must love you! :cool:

Sorry for the dumb question but I am wondering how to connect my PC to my optoma H78DC3. The DVI input and component inputs are already used. Where do I connect my 15-pins VGA connector??? What kind of adapter do I need? Can I use the BNC connectors to achieve this? I currently have one DVI, one component, one 15-pin VGA and one S-video cables going to my projector. I would really like to be able to use my VGA cable...The answer must be simple but can anyone help me with that? :confused:

Can some one help me finding a good store to buy an optoma h78dc3?

Service menu picture and user menu advanced RGB settings are same thing. They work 1:1.

I did not realize this, nor did my calibrator. The way he did the calibration was to first set gray scale in the service menu 'picture' menu. He then adjusted color settings via the user and advanced menus. He did not touch the ADC menu. Is this the right way to do a calibration on this pj?

ADC works only for progressive component signal. It has no effect what so ever for other signal types.

Thanks, good to know.

...Colors are really hard to get look good. I've heard that color decoder is adjusted for colder color temp (9300k i think), so it is not very easy to adjust for D65. What service menu picture numbers your calibrator end up with for 480i component signal?

Yes, I noticed this as well. It seems tough to get 480i colors correct, especially the reds. Here's my 480i component numbers, (for whatever they're worth):
Service menu "Picture" settings
Gain
R-74
G-103
B-49
Bias
R-177
G-132
B-179
Advanced menu
Contrast
R-33
G-33
B15
Brightness
R-35
G-23
B-16

User menu, (I was just playing with these with Avia since I did not think what the calibrator set looked right. I'll give you the calibrator/my own settings).
Contrast: 0/-20
Brightness: -6/-8
Color: 44/21

I would not call the results 'great' but better than factory. Based on this I'm really thinking of buying a external scaler at some point.

I think you can get ADC corrected by using AVIA white and black fields but never ever touch magenta auto calibration because it will ruin settings so that you probably need to send it back to factory to fix it. Still it is very likely that ADC settings are different than what they were when pj was calibrated, so your component progressive signal may not perform D65 anymore (anyway progressive component is already pretty well adjusted in factory so it may not be so far away from optimal settings).

Ok, so based on this info, is it correct to say that the ADC Black Auto button changes some kind of internal hidden settings that are not connected to other menu settings?
So are saying it's worth trying to do the ADC Black Auto cal using the Avia disk, (I think Guitarman mentioned how to do this in another post)?

Thanks again for the help.
Jason

I did not realize this, nor did my calibrator. The way he did the calibration was to first set gray scale in the service menu 'picture' menu. He then adjusted color settings via the user and advanced menus. He did not touch the ADC menu. Is this the right way to do a calibration on this pj?

Sound right. Maybe it would have been simplier just to use one menu to adjust settings since they are same thing. But in this case if those values you listed are correct i think user menu can't go that far (if i recall correctly they only allow -50 to +50).



Yes, I noticed this as well. It seems tough to get 480i colors correct, especially the reds. Here's my 480i component numbers, (for whatever they're worth):
Service menu "Picture" settings
Gain
R-74
G-103
B-49
Bias
R-177
G-132
B-179
Advanced menu
Contrast
R-33
G-33
B15
Brightness
R-35
G-23
B-16

User menu, (I was just playing with these with Avia since I did not think what the calibrator set looked right. I'll give you the calibrator/my own settings).
Contrast: 0/-20
Brightness: -6/-8
Color: 44/21

Are you sure picture bias/gain settings aren't mixed (or values listed aren't ones in the ADC menu)?
These settings really look weird concidering that default settings are something like these:
Gain
R-142
G-129
B-133
Bias
R-116
G-118
B-111



Ok, so based on this info, is it correct to say that the ADC Black Auto button changes some kind of internal hidden settings that are not connected to other menu settings?

I believe ADC black/white should only change RGB gain/offset values in ADC menu but there might be something else too (at least magenta calibration does and you shouldn't try to use it). I've noticed that changing ADC values manually did cause that when i moved any of the user menu contrast/brightness/color slider colors kind of a jumped back to normal looking and after that moving sliders didn't make such a big difference.
This only affected progressive component.

So are saying it's worth trying to do the ADC Black Auto cal using the Avia disk, (I think Guitarman mentioned how to do this in another post)?

I think yes (but be careful and do it at your own risk) if you did hit auto cal during some normal tv program settings may be wrong now, you should get it corrected by hitting black auto cal during black picture from avia. But still if you did hit auto cal and you didn't feed progressive component. i'm not sure if anything was actually changed.

Sorry for the dumb question but I am wondering how to connect my PC to my optoma H78DC3. The DVI input and component inputs are already used. Where do I connect my 15-pins VGA connector??? What kind of adapter do I need? Can I use the BNC connectors to achieve this? I currently have one DVI, one component, one 15-pin VGA and one S-video cables going to my projector. I would really like to be able to use my VGA cable...The answer must be simple but can anyone help me with that? :confused:
vga to 5bnc breakout cable (watch the gender on the VGA end)
i bought a 1-foot one since i also had a VGA cable run.
http://www.pccables.com/cgi-bin/orders6.cgi?action=Showitem&id=ID1251478&partno=00693&search=BNC&rsite=pccables.com&rcode=
http://www.pccables.com/images/00693.jpg

I just wanted to add something. It seems my lamp has gotten an extra boost or something because all of a sudden I had to lower the contrast to +3 instead of +4. Checked this with DVE very carefully. I have about 300 hours on the lamp. So with all the dim threads here and "do not buy an optoma because your lamp will die"-threads, here you have an example of the exact opposite thing. A lamp that goes brighter :D Anyway, I just wanted to mention this :)

I just wanted to add something. It seems my lamp has gotten an extra boost or something because all of a sudden I had to lower the contrast to +3 instead of +4. Checked this with DVE very carefully. I have about 300 hours on the lamp. So with all the dim threads here and "do not buy an optoma because your lamp will die"-threads, here you have an example of the exact opposite thing. A lamp that goes brighter :D Anyway, I just wanted to mention this :)

So far, for whatever reason, European Optoma owners have not been reporting the dim lamp problems that the North American Optoma owners have been reporting.

There have been differences between the Euro and American H79/78's over the year or so....not sure about the latest carnation though (like the H78DC3).

Then again, maybe your sudden brightness is the flash before the flame out...kinda how lamps do a quick bright before they fail (talking house lamps, not PJ lamps). Ok, just trying to make you nervous. PJ lamps can change in brightness when the arc finds a different arc points that have been less worn.

Fleaman

Are you sure picture bias/gain settings aren't mixed (or values listed aren't ones in the ADC menu)?
I appologize, after looking at my post the next day, I realize it was confusing due to my inconsistent use of the "-" symbol, (a problem with staying up too late). Also, I forgot to mention, I ended up with two sets of numbers since the calibrator did not know the advanced menu changed the service menu/picture settings.
NOTE: As I mentioned, the calibrator did not touch the ADC menu to my knowledge.
Let's try again:
480i Service menu/Picture settings (pre-User Advanced menu cal/what gray scale was set to then changed in the Advanced menu without knowing)
R Gain: 74
G Gain: 103
B Gain: 49
R Bias: 177
G Bias: 132
B Bias: 179

User Advanced Menu settings
R contrast: 33
G contrast: 33
B contrast: 15
R Brightness: 35
G Brightness: 23
B Brightness: 16

480i Service menu/picture settings, (post-User Advanced menu cal/Current settings)
R Gain: 167
G Gain: 157
B Gain: 138
R Bias: 160
G Bias: 155
B Bias: 134

As mentioned, the service menu changed after adjusting the Advanced menu.

Incidentally, I checked the ADC menu and found all the settings to be the same regardless of input. I'm guessing they changed when I hit the 'Black Auto Cal' button by mistake, they currently are:
ADC
R gain 125
G gain 175
B gain 125
R offset 52
G offset 66
B offset 58
Prior to the calibration I put in Guitarman's settings in from an early post, which I think is what the projector was cal'd with:
ADC
R gain 188
G gain 191
B gain 187
R offset 43
G offset 54
B offset 46

I also found that I had written down the factory settings prior to all this mess:
ADC
R gain 127
G gain 184
B gain 127
R offset 44
G offset 55
B offset 44

Confused yet? I am. I guess I'll try some of these ADC settings and see how she looks. If all else fails I can try the Avia-Black Auto cal bit too. The more I think about it, I might be better off just starting from scratch... :(

Let's try again:
480i Service menu/Picture settings (pre-User Advanced menu cal/what gray scale was set to then changed in the Advanced menu without knowing)
R Gain: 74
G Gain: 103
B Gain: 49
R Bias: 177
G Bias: 132
B Bias: 179

User Advanced Menu settings
R contrast: 33
G contrast: 33
B contrast: 15
R Brightness: 35
G Brightness: 23
B Brightness: 16

480i Service menu/picture settings, (post-User Advanced menu cal/Current settings)
R Gain: 167
G Gain: 157
B Gain: 138
R Bias: 160
G Bias: 155
B Bias: 134

As mentioned, the service menu changed after adjusting the Advanced menu.

Now these settings make sense. I'll test how they work in my pj.
Interlaced picture looks so terrible that it can't get any worse :)

There's still one thing i'm wondering about your settings before and after user menu advanced calibration. Since service menu and user menu work 1:1 (for example service menu red gain is 100 and then you go to user menu advanced and set red gain +10 and go again to service menu you should see red gain value 110). You list your pre user menu service picture red gain was 74 and it was set +33 in user advanced and after that service menu picture red gain value is 167. Maybe your calibrator did reset settings at some point and started over again.

Anyway your "480i Service menu/picture settings, (post-User Advanced menu cal/Current settings)" should be ok. Just something must have happened after first service menu calibration.



Incidentally, I checked the ADC menu and found all the settings to be the same regardless of input.

This is normal. ADC settings in the service menu are always available but they only affect progressive component.



I'm guessing they changed when I hit the 'Black Auto Cal' button by mistake, they currently are:
ADC
R gain 125
G gain 175
B gain 125
R offset 52
G offset 66
B offset 58
Prior to the calibration I put in Guitarman's settings in from an early post, which I think is what the projector was cal'd with:
ADC
R gain 188
G gain 191
B gain 187
R offset 43
G offset 54
B offset 46

I also found that I had written down the factory settings prior to all this mess:
ADC
R gain 127
G gain 184
B gain 127
R offset 44
G offset 55
B offset 44

Confused yet? I am. I guess I'll try some of these ADC settings and see how she looks. If all else fails I can try the Avia-Black Auto cal bit too. The more I think about it, I might be better off just starting from scratch... :(
It is very good that you wrote down all ADC settigns before calibration. I adviced to do auto cal with AVIA because i didn't know you had your original settings written down. I think best thing now would be manually put back those ADC values you had prior calibration. This way you should end up with 100% same settings you had just after calibration before you hit ADC auto cal.

ADC settings seem to vary most between different units. All picture RGB values are usually same. For example my ADC values are: 176, 163, 176, 46, 63, 50.

By the way. I using these values for DVI in service menu now: 172, 141, 149, 112, 113, 113.
Original values were: 145, 141, 139, 119, 113, 113.

Are your calibrated values anywhere near these?

Can some one help me finding a good store to buy an optoma h78dc3?

Sure, right here at A/V Science:)!!!

[QUOTE=chinch]vga to 5bnc breakout cable (watch the gender on the VGA end)
i bought a 1-foot one since i also had a VGA cable run.
QUOTE]




Thanks a lot! I will order one of those right away!

There's still one thing i'm wondering about your settings before and after user menu advanced calibration. Since service menu and user menu work 1:1 (for example service menu red gain is 100 and then you go to user menu advanced and set red gain +10 and go again to service menu you should see red gain value 110). You list your pre user menu service picture red gain was 74 and it was set +33 in user advanced and after that service menu picture red gain value is 167. Maybe your calibrator did reset settings at some point and started over again.

I understand what you are saying, but I don't have an answer. It does not makes sense to me either, but those are the settings I have... :confused:

Are your calibrated values anywhere near these?
Here's my all my cal'd DVI settings. They are all the same for 480i,480p, 720p, & 1080i.
Service menu 'picture':
R Gain: 123
G Gain: 102
B Gain: 105
R Bias: 130
G Bias: 132
B Bias: 134

Advanced menu
R Contrast: -23
G Contrast: -31
B Contrast: -29
R Brightness: 11
G Brightness: 19
B Brightness: 21

User menu
Contrast: 16
Brightness: -8
Color temp: 2

One note on the DVI/480i: The picture looks poor, too dark. Come to think of it, I don't think my guy cal'd that input signal and I've not messed with it as of yet. All the other settings look pretty good to me. Anyway, thanks again for the help. :)
-Jason

Here's my all my cal'd DVI settings. They are all the same for 480i,480p, 720p, & 1080i.
Service menu 'picture':
R Gain: 123
G Gain: 102
B Gain: 105
R Bias: 130
G Bias: 132
B Bias: 134

Advanced menu
R Contrast: -23
G Contrast: -31
B Contrast: -29
R Brightness: 11
G Brightness: 19
B Brightness: 21

User menu
Contrast: 16
Brightness: -8
Color temp: 2

It seems that your calibrator did wisely and calibrated gray scale so that reds don't run out at higher IRE levels. You most likely have flat D65 all the way to 100 IRE.
Your DVI settings look similar to what calibrated H7x's usually are. Red contrast need to be pushed up quite a bit.
My settings are very similar with red contrast pushed high but they are so high that higher IRE area is not accurate anymore, but contrast ratio is much higher this way.



480i Service menu/picture settings, (post-User Advanced menu cal/Current settings)
R Gain: 167
G Gain: 157
B Gain: 138
R Bias: 160
G Bias: 155
B Bias: 134

I tested your 480i interlaced component settings last night but they didn't work in my unit. Biases were so high that even if i lowered brightness to -50 blacks were dithering and looked green. I assume you don't have any problem with blacks with these settings?

I tested your 480i interlaced component settings last night but they didn't work in my unit. Biases were so high that even if i lowered brightness to -50 blacks were dithering and looked green. I assume you don't have any problem with blacks with these settings?
Nope, no problems with the blacks that I can tell. The picture does not look perfect, but it's much better than it was before the cal.

I've been trying to find out what the white peaking option does but wasn't able to find out a clear answer searching this thread. From what I've read, white peaking inceases the brightness, can crush the whites and Increases the overall contrast ratio. Is this right? Then why most users don't seem to be using it? or should it be used under certain circumstances only? (ex: ambient light)


Thanks.

It uses the the time between color segments where the DMD would otherwise be in an 'off' mode, and can be detrimental to image quality. You can use it if you want to watch something with ambient light such as a sports event, but you will be sacrificing some image quality and detail, which is why it's not recommended for movies.

Gary.

Total noob question but I have a H78 with a 92"
Stewark Firehawk. It's out of the box. How do I calibrate this thing with no engineering degree? Any auto calibration DVDs or anything? Or should I find a pro somewhere to do it?

Shane

Setting white and black levels (contrast and brightness) is very important and can easily be done with a test disk like Avia or DVE. Color calibration however requires some more expensive equipment and some knowledge of what to do with it. For that you'd need an ISF calibrator or to be able to spend the cash on the kit and DIY. It can be fun to learn about it as you go if you're that way inclined. :)

Gary

Total noob question but I have a H78 with a 92"
Stewark Firehawk. It's out of the box. How do I calibrate this thing with no engineering degree? Any auto calibration DVDs or anything? Or should I find a pro somewhere to do it?

ShaneWhat Gary said. You'll need to at least set the contrast and brightness. For that a good calibration DVD is the least expensive start. Avia and DVE consumer versions are long time favorites and good for beginners. Of those 2, I recommend Avia for general easier usability and how-to videos. Some on-line rental places even have them. We've also been working on one here see my signature for the thread.

Depending on what you are feeding it, you might have some other test patterns available. For example Comcast HD cable here provides INHD. INHD has a short 15 min or so show on every couple of weeks in the wee hours called "Tune Up". It has the basic patterns to get a start. I think HDNET has similar shows. THX DVD's have a "THX Optimizer" on them but it varies from disc to disc. Better than nothing.

I also agree with Gary that if you have the funds to spend on it, getting an instrument and learnign to DIY can be fun and satisfying (for some :)). They can be pricey though. For a list of what can be used you can see the appendix of the calibration disc manual the group participated on for the calibration disc in my sig. Probably the least expensive option along those lines is the Spyder Pro, but I have no experience with it. Bill (search for user ursa) has a link in his signature on calibrating a H79 with one. Pretty good document on the subject. Finally I tried a SMART III device (by Steve Smallcombe) when I had a H77, but it didn't work very well for me on that particular projector, I don't recommend it for a H7x. I think he stopped selling it anyway.

Please excuse the OT tangent, Gary, did you gt the IscoII? I'd be interested in hearing how it works out for you. I presume you were/are going to use it on a H7x. I chickened out getting it based on input from Mike (Mr. Poindexter).

Cheers,
Scott

Hi Scott,

Well, the deal is done and Danjb should be shipping it to me any day now. I'll let you know how it works out with my Optoma and in comparison to the Prismasonic H1000 I'm currently using.

As for using THX Optimode, the Star Wars A New Hope DVD appears to have one that is actually mastered to video levels (b = D16 and w = D235) so that can be used as a calibration disk if you have it.

Gary

Shane,

I'll be heading thru that area very soon to do some calibration work in Alexandria, VA and Charlotte, NC if you need me to shoot by your place also?

PM me if interested:)

Shane,

I'll be heading thru that area very soon to do some calibration work in Alexandria, VA and Charlotte, NC if you need me to shoot by your place also?

PM me if interested:)


Thank you all for the input. Dave, I will PM... Richmond is 90 miles south of Alexandria...hope thats not too far... I am skeered to calibrate myself.

That should be OK. I received your PM and have replied, so we'll continue this there:)

I got a call from COSTCO CANADA today. Ther was a price drop of 900$CAN +plus taxes (about 930USD) on the price of the H78DC3 when bought online. Since I bought mine less than a month ago, the amount will be credited on my next CC bill...Thought canadian readers interested in the H78DC3 might like to know! :)

I got a call from COSTCO CANADA today. Ther was a price drop of 900$CAN +plus taxes (about 930USD) on the price of the H78DC3 when bought online. Since I bought mine less than a month ago, the amount will be credited on my next CC bill...Thought canadian readers interested in the H78DC3 might like to know! :)

Yes, I saw that new price! WOW, to think I paid $2000 more then that for my Infocus (Studio Experience) LS110 4 years ago... :o

If my eyes were not so full of images of a H81, a H78 at that price is real tempting, free shipping and a 92" screen to boot... amazing!

Sorry if that were probably required many time but I am new in the small world of Optoma :rolleyes: I'm at present a BenQ PE8700+ user...

Is there a significant difference between the H78DC3 and H79?

Would I obtain an appreciable + in contrast, luminosity and general PQ compared to my PE8700+ with a H78DC3?

Thanks !

...Is there a significant difference between the H78DC3 and H79?...

That depends on the H78DC3 you happen to get:rolleyes:

...Would I obtain an appreciable + in contrast, luminosity and general PQ compared to my PE8700+ with a H78DC3?...

I can't really speak for that as I only have limited time/knowledge with the BenQ...sorry:( From what I have seen and their histories, I think you should stand pat with what you have though and the next best upgrade would be to a good 1080p unit.

Has it been determined whether the prematurely dimming lamps are the result of a bad batch of lamps, or is the projector design flawed? With the current prices on these units (which include a free lamp) I might be willing to take my chances if the problems are the result of a bad batch of lamps.

Optoma has been pretty tight lipped about it for all I know. Maybe Tom (Guitarman) knows more?

It's bad lamps. I just got a JVC DLIA/TV and read on the owners thread many had their lamps dim or die early. On examination the diode bulded out and crazing appeared on the globe. Very similar to the look of the members who complained about their bulbs dimming on the H77 dim bulb thread.

You could very well have a new machine that never shows a problem. You might consider a low priced insurance package that covers things including bulbs.

It's bad lamps. I just got a JVC DLIA/TV and read on the owners thread many had their lamps dim or die early. On examination the diode bulded out and crazing appeared on the globe. Very similar to the look of the members who complained about their bulbs dimming on the H77 dim bulb thread.

You could very well have a new machine that never shows a problem. You might consider a low priced insurance package that covers things including bulbs.
Isn't Optoma going to take any resonsibility of problems caused by bad bulbs?
Do you know if it is only bad batch of bulbs or is there design flaw in the bulbs (and if it is design flaw, will they redesign problem free bulbs for H7x)?

Insurance is one thing to consider, but since there is a obivious bulb problem and many here have bought their H7x without extra warranty they can't buy it afterwards. I think Optoma should step up on this matter and provide reasonable solution. If they keep quiet on this matter, there will be a lot of unsatisfied customers and it can't be effecting their future models sales.

I'm a Canadian, who was mulling over getting an Infocus IN76, but have been tempted by the Costco deal for the H78DC3... I'm guessing the contrast levels would be better with the Optoma.

Has anyone compared the H78DC3 with the IN76

Also, has anyone tried HD-DVD on the H78DC3 with and HDMI --> DVI adapter and had success? I wouldn't want to get the H78DC3 if I couldn't use all the upcoming HDMI w/ HDCP devices coming out... ie HD-DVD and Blu-ray.

Either projector will beat out my Infocus 4805 or my old NEC LT-150 :)

Isn't Optoma going to take any resonsibility of problems caused by bad bulbs?
Do you know if it is only bad batch of bulbs or is there design flaw in the bulbs (and if it is design flaw, will they redesign problem free bulbs for H7x)?

Insurance is one thing to consider, but since there is a obivious bulb problem and many here have bought their H7x without extra warranty they can't buy it afterwards. I think Optoma should step up on this matter and provide reasonable solution. If they keep quiet on this matter, there will be a lot of unsatisfied customers and it can't be effecting their future models sales.

Mostly all the companies go by the bulb mfg's warranty. I don't think the companies get money back after the 90day period. The bulb companies have had funky bulbs for years, probably why they only set a 90day warranty. All Optoma can do is ask the bulb mfg to have better QC control.

But they should at least acknowledge it and sell new lamps to those affected at cost or something. Not rake them over the coals at retail price:rolleyes:

One of my long time clients who bought an H79 from me and was VERY happy with it, but has only had it for a few months, just told me he had to go to BRIGHT mode just to make it acceptable now. To me as the dealer that's embarrassing and clearly NOT acceptable:mad:

Make it right or don't make it at all!!!!!!!!!

I wasn't trying to throw gas on the fire when I asked if the lamp problems were due to the projector itself or faulty lamps. However, I will say that I am unimpressed with how Optoma is handling this.

I am getting a refund shortly from Toshiba due to lamp failures with my MT700. Previous to that they replaced each failed lamp for free (outside the lamp warranty). Benq is doing the same thing for the OEM PE7700. Despite the conspiracy theories and naysayers, I have yet to see a report of someone who hasn't received a free replacement lamp for one of these projectors (although I don't doubt it could have occurred).

It's not that hard to do the right thing by the customer. If it's bad lamps then replace them. I don't care if it's the lamp manufacturer's fault. Optoma is the one selling the projector, and they can (and apparently should) put a lot of economic pressure on the lamp manufacturer for a quality product.

Assuming it was a bad batch of lamps, how does someone currently contemplating purchasing an H78DC3 know they'll be getting one with a "good" lamp? Is there a serial number on the lamp or the projector to ID these?

Hey, remember, this is the HAPPY H79/H78dc3 owners thread. :)

Hey, remember, this is the HAPPY H79/H78dc3 owners thread. :)

:)

Hey, Guys,
I'm about to move to a new home and for the first time in eons have a DEDICATED HT with total light control. Yeehaw!!!

Any opinions on a white versus grey screen in this situation? Going to project about 10' wide (scope format)

Oh yeah, the walls and ceiling will all be dark, dark, dark.

I'm closing in on 300 hours and I haven't seen any dimming of my bulb outside of the normal dimming, knock on wood!

But they should at least acknowledge it and sell new lamps to those affected at cost or something. Not rake them over the coals at retail price:rolleyes:

One of my long time clients who bought an H79 from me and was VERY happy with it, but has only had it for a few months, just told me he had to go to BRIGHT mode just to make it acceptable now. To me as the dealer that's embarrassing and clearly NOT acceptable:mad:

Make it right or don't make it at all!!!!!!!!!

The H79 guys can do a hot swap for the first year. Allot of the problem I bet is the bulb dimming? is it normal dimming or heavy dimming. The user should test the output level with a light meter. I think a new H77 is around 15.5ftc when new and 13ftc in econo when new. The H79 is higher 17.5 and 15fct. Say after 3 months or 300hrs the bulb is 30,35% or so down. This could be considered normal wear. Bulb wear tapers off after the intial stronger wearing. (how are the Ruby guys holding up?)

I think they were offering H77 owners dealer cost on the bulbs. Which is still pretty high, makes me wonder what they pay Phillips for a bulb.

Tom, I saw this first hand on my H79 and I can clearly, without a doubt tell you it was certainly NOT normal lamp aging and dimming. From what my client is telling me, he is experiencing the exact same thing on his now.

There is a problem, no matter how you try to gloss it over.

I'm at 1200+ hours on my H79 and all is well... Plan is still to switch to HIGH mode at 2000 hours. I wish I could find some place to purchase these bulbs cheaper! They are surely expensive. SJ

Mostly all the companies go by the bulb mfg's warranty. I don't think the companies get money back after the 90day period. The bulb companies have had funky bulbs for years, probably why they only set a 90day warranty. All Optoma can do is ask the bulb mfg to have better QC control.
Optoma guys don't realise that they are manufacturing the projector and if some part in it is not performing well, they can't say that go to talk to that faulty component maker. They have to make things good for their clients! If they have a beef with Philips, it is not H7x owners problem.

Let me give you an example: You bought a new car and after some thousand of miles engine has piston problem and it is eating oil several gallons every thousand miles. Of course you go to make a complaint, but now car maker tells you it is not their fault that company who made pistons did have QC issues, go talk to piston company. It simply doesn't work this way.

If Optoma doesn't understand this, they will be out of HT projector business very soon when word gets around how they treat their customers.

I was noticing some posterization in dark scenes with my H-79 and I thought it was caused by my new HDMI receiver setup. After checking out my calibration I could see the posterization in the gray areas around 25 ire or so. I tried different settings to no avail. I then went to the service menu and saw that my spoke index was set to 30. I reduced it to 25 and I could see the posterization/banding disappear. I checked some threads on here an noted that someone else had a posterization issue that was fixed with a new power supply. Anyone else had to adjust the spoke timing to correct this issue? BTW, my calibration was spot on, with no posterization, so I am not sure what this means, unless I too have a power supply going south :rolleyes:

By posterization do mean that in a dark scene when there is a gradient of say mist it comes across as very stepwise apposed to being a smooth gradient? If so, I have this bad. Please refresh my memory on getting to the service menu to adjust this setting. I always that thought this was just a DLP thing :)

Thank you, worked great. I also found that my FFDshow setting were making the posterization worse. In fact it was the main reason posterization was happening. The 3d noise filter set too high. How funny, all this time I thought it was just a DLP artifact. The fog scene in King Kong was unwatchable. Now it looks smooth as can be.

How does the up conversion of the A1 compare to your HTPC running ffdshow for sd-dvd?

Optoma guys don't realise that they are manufacturing the projector and if some part in it is not performing well, they can't say that go to talk to that faulty component maker. They have to make things good for their clients! If they have a beef with Philips, it is not H7x owners problem.

Let me give you an example: You bought a new car and after some thousand of miles engine has piston problem and it is eating oil several gallons every thousand miles. Of course you go to make a complaint, but now car maker tells you it is not their fault that company who made pistons did have QC issues, go talk to piston company. It simply doesn't work this way.

If Optoma doesn't understand this, they will be out of HT projector business very soon when word gets around how they treat their customers.


The beef is the 90day warranty, that comes from the bulb mfg. I can't help anybody get a free new bulb after warranty. What input I did have was that Optoma does have a 1 year swap for the H79 if any/any problem arises. As far as out of warranty dimming on the H77 model a customer could take a scientific measurement of foot-candles and compare it to my projected new bulb measurement and talk to customer service about it, if the light level is very low vs hours.

I was thinking early on when the first member said his picture got darker and others said mine's not as bright now either, that the company would have a question to whether the owner knows how much brightness is lost and whether it's normal. They couldn't send out bulbs to everyone without some facts. I can't say they will after the 90day warranty ran out either, but it's best to have some hard info when you call in to complain. It could help.

Look around for Danielo's bulb dimming chart/stats which was helpful. I hope I spelled his name right. :)

Tom, I saw this first hand on my H79 and I can clearly, without a doubt tell you it was certainly NOT normal lamp aging and dimming. From what my client is telling me, he is experiencing the exact same thing on his now.

There is a problem, no matter how you try to gloss it over.

Tell him to take the bulb out and see if it has a bulge at the bottom of the filament just for an experiment. He doesn't need to prove anything, the H79 can be swapped in the first year for any problem. With the next one tell him to watch out for miss strikes and re-fires which could end the bulbs life quickly. Also to leave the PJ on if he's taking a 1/2 hour break. Bulb strikes cause the wear especially if the PJ hasn't cooled fully down and you fire up again. I'd wait at least a half hour before turning on a projector again.

You know the orange light warning on start up can't be good because you can see the bulb's trying to light. I had this problem on my HT1000 just recently. I could see it trying to light up but would then turn off. I knew this would wear the bulb down so I sent it for repair. Turned out is was the ballast which was fixed on my dime. Too bad UPS broke the lens during ship back, I'm waiting to sort out the insurance claim. They broke my HT1k! :(

Look around for Danielo's bulb dimming chart/stats which was helpful. I hope I spelled his name right. :)

Yep, I do not want to post all the info on this thread too but since alot people are in this thread he's a url to the stats we kept so far :

50 normal=429L, bright=569L
80 normal=414L, bright=540L
100 normal=379L, bright=523L
144 normal=362L, bright=506L
157 normal=358L, bright=502L
185 normal=355L, bright=494L
208 normal=350L, bright=485L
240 normal=350L, bright=481L
300 normal=338L, bright=456L
350 normal=329L, bright=431L
400 normal=308L, bright=405L

more at 50h intervals at :

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=641904&page=5&pp=30


Personally i think its a good idea for anyone into frontprojectors to get a light meter (some models sell for less than $50) and get facts instead of feelings. You will not only be able to detect any bulb problems but will be able to find out what lightlevels you prefer when talking to others for example i have found about 10foot/lambert the best for me but others prefer ultra bright say 25 to 30 that just make me close my eyes really fast in a fully light controlled room.

Daniel.

I looked through the forum but found mostly folks complaining about H79 bulb life but nothing much about the best place to get a replacement bulb. I am one of those that has no complaints with my H79. It has about 1000 hours on it and needs a replacement soon. Is there a recommended place I should be looking besides the standard stuff that comes up on a Google search?
Cheers

Sota, I was watching House last night and said to my wife, hey he's got a Sota Turntable I almost bought one of those but think my Rega might be better :)

Google searching the bulb number is a best way if you have time to wait for the best deal. I wouldn't expect to find one under $360 but if you do jump on it. Ask AVS they're good for helping out the community.

Actually, Guitarman, I have an old Linn Sondek LP12 turntable, not a Sota, even if the screen name would make one think differently. And while we're talking about what we have, since you're a fellow guitar dude, I also have a few Gibson LPs and Strats. They get a lot of use, unlike my old turntable these days. Of course, that's my job for the last 32 years so I better be using them. ;)

Sota.

Here is one source. I picked one up a few months back (to have an extra on hand) and the box is 100% identical to the one I got direct from Optoma.

http://www.provantage.com/optoma-sp-l3701-001~7OPTO04L.htm

Thanks BIGmouthinDC. Now we're talking. A better deal than most of the sites I've visited today.

Cheers,
-Dave

The beef is the 90day warranty, that comes from the bulb mfg.
But the real beef is that WE are buying projector with the bulb inside, and there's no mention anywhere that customers if they have bulb problems must go to complain to bulb maker. Optoma must take responsibility of parts they use inside their projectors. If Optoma got bad bulbs from bulb maker they cannot make us to suffer from it. They have to deal with the bulb maker. Just like every other makers who has bulb quality problems, take a look at Nec thread here where Nec did carry their responsibility in bulb problems and did not try to accuse bulb makers and do nothing about it. I know Optoma only gives limited warranty for the bulb, but they also mention expected bulb life 2000 hours in bright mode and 3000 hours in normal mode, but now is seems you get only 10% to 30% of promised bulb life.

If they can't understand this they will have a lot of angry customers who will never buy Optoma again and bad word gets around quickly. I know you can't help on this issue, but maybe you could tell your Optoma contacts to read some of the bulb problem threads here and tell them to give official statement what they are going to do.

BIGmouthinDC,

I would assume that the same bulb that would go in the H78D3c?

Didn't see a separate listing.

billmac

Hey guys, last call on an AV-RS232 controller. Two left selling at cost with SER-3 cable. I'll post in the Display Devices FS forum.

Actually, Guitarman, I have an old Linn Sondek LP12 turntable, not a Sota, even if the screen name would make one think differently. And while we're talking about what we have, since you're a fellow guitar dude, I also have a few Gibson LPs and Strats. They get a lot of use, unlike my old turntable these days. Of course, that's my job for the last 32 years so I better be using them. ;)

I'll give you a thousand dollars for that 59 Les Paul or even the 57 Strat. :)

But they should at least acknowledge it and sell new lamps to those affected at cost or something. Not rake them over the coals at retail price:rolleyes:
...
Make it right or don't make it at all!!!!!!!!!
Well said.

They finally replaced mine, after much anxiety and impaired viewing, and with about 100 hours on the new bulb it is already discernibly dimming, even with a supplemental exhaust fan.

90% of HT bulbs are made by Philips, which is the most advanced small arc-lamp developer in the world. And the bulb drive electronics in the H7x are by Philips as well.

Now, this practically eliminates the drive electronics as a factor. Another interesting piece of information is that Philips now makes a bulb with a life of 10,000 hours.

My hypotheses are:
- The bulbs which blow up like a balloon, do so because of a buildup of too much heat, owing to Optoma's firmware fan-curve settings;
- The fast dimming of the bulbs which have not blown up like a balloon, is because they are of Philips' "economy line". {cough}

I've dissected the H78DC3 PJ, and it is surprisingly well-built. So to pair it with a quality bulb would make a great little machine. This would entail though, a bit of mechanical skill, a special high-heat compound, and a low-volume source for the envelopes.

See? An optimistic post for the happy owners...

Thanks:D!!!

Well said.

They finally replaced mine, after much anxiety and impaired viewing, and with about 100 hours on the new bulb it is already discernibly dimming, even with a supplemental exhaust fan.

90% of HT bulbs are made by Philips, which is the most advanced small arc-lamp developer in the world. And the bulb drive electronics in the H7x are by Philips as well.

Now, this practically eliminates the drive electronics as a factor. Another interesting piece of information is that Philips now makes a bulb with a life of 10,000 hours.

My hypotheses are:
- The bulbs which blow up like a balloon, do so because of a buildup of too much heat, owing to Optoma's firmware fan-curve settings;
- The fast dimming of the bulbs which have not blown up like a balloon, is because they are of Philips' "economy line". {cough}

I've dissected the H78DC3 PJ, and it is surprisingly well-built. So to pair it with a quality bulb would make a great little machine. This would entail though, a bit of mechanical skill, a special high-heat compound, and a low-volume source for the envelopes.

See? An optimistic post for the happy owners...

Does your projector have a High Altitude setting for the fan?
I use my Optoma HD72 in this mode to keep the lamp cool.
So far no bulb failure or loss of brightness with 125 plus hours.

Does your projector have a High Altitude setting for the fan?
Unfortunately, no user control over the fan.

Although, if you're using a scaler or HTPC that can do it, using 72Hz for your movie DVDs should increase the fan speed slightly. It seems to be connected to the refresh rate that's input as I noticed when I used to have one and ran 48Hz and the speed got noticeably more quiet.

Just a thought:rolleyes:

I'll give you a thousand dollars for that 59 Les Paul or even the 57 Strat. :)

I will pay 1200.00....taking any 78DC3 trades? ;)

I picked the two most sought after guitars at a steal it now price. ;) Hey Alan even asked for advice once on the Strat, a 1976 Silver Aniversary model. I had one, told him to snag it, I wonder if he still has it. I offer $350 :)

...If they can't understand this they will have a lot of angry customers who will never buy Optoma again and bad word gets around quickly. I know you can't help on this issue, but maybe you could tell your Optoma contacts to read some of the bulb problem threads here and tell them to give official statement what they are going to do.

Well, looks like one of the things they did might have finally played out. It seems that many dealers have finally ran out of the H78DC3. Couple of AVS forum sponsored dealers no longer have them, but I could find a dealer that has them on ebay.

Rest in peace.

Fleaman

I picked the two most sought after guitars at a steal it now price. ;) Hey Alan even asked for advice once on the Strat, a 1976 Silver Aniversary model. I had one, told him to snag it, I wonder if he still has it. I offer $350 :)

I offer 375.00, but only if its a lefty :)

I run it about 3-4 hours a day and at 25 it died. I replaced the bulb, still nothing. I get the flashing blue power light with the red lamp light lit also, thiking the bulb blew, still not acceptible, I replaced it with the free one that came with it, same results. Unfortunately it is the weekend so no one from Optoma is around. Any ideas what it could be?

thanks

:mad: -arizonadenis

Totally unplug it for a while. My guess is there might be a power supply or ballast problem.

Thanks, I will give that a shot and see how it goes.

Darn, no luck I left it unpluggen over night and same results. Looks like I will have to talk to Optoma and be without for a while. Just finished the home theater too. I was a very happy H78 owner until this.

It's a new projector and Optima has a deal where they'll send you a new projector immediately, like tomorrow Monday. You have to lay down a credit card as collateral until they receive the faulty projector back. I think they even include a return ship label. Ask about it.

Tom,

Will do, thanks for all your help and advice.

-azdenis

I picked the two most sought after guitars at a steal it now price. ;) Hey Alan even asked for advice once on the Strat, a 1976 Silver Aniversary model. I had one, told him to snag it, I wonder if he still has it. I offer $350 :)


On the topic of nice guitars, I was watching "Winter Passing" last night, and noticed what looked like a custom shop LP being played right handed by Will Farrel....only it was a left handed model strung as right handed. :)

Could someone briefly explain why the manual states that 3 screw sizes are required for mounting?

Ceiling Mount Installation

1. To prevent damaging your projector, please use the ceiling
mount package for installation.
2. If you wish to use a third party ceiling mount kit please
ensure the screws used to attached a mount to the projector
met the following specifications:
4 Screw type: M6,M8,M10
4 Screw length: 10,16,55 m/m

So for the three mounting holes, which screw type is correct and why did they list three sizes??

I'm seriously thinking of getting this projector.

Thanks in advance for any explanation because I'm kind of confused about this. Usually manuals seem to only list one screw type and a maximum length.

Wayne

It takes 6's. Only 6's. I used stainless button head socket screws. Length will be dependant on mount bracket. Unless you are a DIY mount, all teh mounts will come with proper hardware.

Scott

Thanks Scott! The mount which I've purchased is from Vantage Point and it's a universal one that came with 4mm screws so I'll have to go out and get the 6mm ones. I won't know the length until I actually have the pj in my hands to size the depth up with the mount arms. I guess I could go long and if too long, make up the difference with spacers/washers.

6mm eh? Man, my H57 only takes 3mm but it's not 17lbs either! :)

Of course I could always change my mind and go for the HD72 which takes 4mm which came with the mount. ;)

Why do manufacturers state confusing things like this in their instructions!? :confused: If not for your input, I'd have gone out and purchased all three types listed at various lengths just to cover myself. Fortunately they aren't expensive. :)

Can you get these screws at Home Depot?

Wayne

I have a H78 hooked up to a Denon 3806 via HDMI/DVI. The denon received DirecTV via HDMI and DVD Player via component. When I switch between TV and DVD, and even when I switch between HD channels and non-HD channels, the Optoma goes through the whole searching for signal process again. I find this very annoying. Is there anyway to stop it? I tried source lock, but that didn't really seem to help. What am I missing?

That's the main reason it does go thru that annoying syncing, because you go from one resolution to the other (SD [480i], ED [480p], & HD[720p, 1080i]).

If you want to avoid that with the Optoma's, you'll need an external scaler set to output one resolution (native is best at 720p) so the H78 sees the same one and doesn't look for another. Or if you don't want or have a scaler, you should be able to set the output of all your sources to 720p.

Source lock only locks the unit from checking other input types like YPbPr,S-Video, Composite, etc. and it locks onto the last used one like DVI.

Set your Satellite receiver to always output 720p that way there will be no syncing when you switch channels whether they are HD or SD. I have a BEV 9200 set that way and it works great.

Well, they recived it on June 1st and I have yet to get a replacement. I have sent a few emails with no response as to ETA or anything. I even checked the RMA site and all it says is that they got it and nothing else. I am unfortunately going from a "Happy" owner to a very "Unhappy" one.

Thank god for my Yami 2600 and Paradigms to at least listen to music, or I would be going nuts.

-d

Best thing to do is call in, email response is slow. I forgot to ask you, did you have the projector ceiling mounted / inverted?

With the H77 I had it stopped working. When I had it down I put it upright on a table and it worked. I put it back up on the ceiling and it didn't work. So I built a ceiling shelf and used the H77 upright / high up and it never missed a beat. Not a great remedy though. The Engineer said somthings shorting out inside.

Danielo had a problem with his not working I told him to try it right side up, darn thing started working for him. I wonder if he ever sent it in for a fix?

Yeah I had it ceiling mounted inverted. Didn't think to try flipping it over. Hopefully the next one they send me will last.

Anyone ever experience evenly spaced vertical lines from their H79? At about the 5 hour mark all these vertical lines appeared across my screen from the H79. I ruled out a source component issue, tried playing w/ contrast and unplugged it for 24 hours. Any other suggestions or has anyone else shared the same experience?

Mark

Could be tracking/phase. What input are you using and what color are the bands/lines?

Hi Guys,

Has anyone seen the DVD Player thread on this forum about the new OPPO DVD player ,which can output 480i via the HDMI outlet so it's in digital ,rather than analog.

I have a mind to order one, but seem to remember reading somewhere that the H79 won't accept 480i via the DVI/HDMI input. Does anyone know for sure?

Yes, I believe it does if I remember right. I think I used it that way with a Pioneer DV-59AVi. I don't have the H79 anymore, so you may want to confirm with someone who is doing this now.

Thanks Dave.

I'm thinking that the OPPO sending out a digital 480i is the next best thing to SDI outputs and the scaler in the H79 isn't bad ,so the combination should produce good results.

Can anyone confirm the H79 takes 480i on it's DVI input?

No problem.

Are you using any other sources with this H79? If you're using something like the Comcast Motorola 6412 HD Cable DVR then you can test it with that by setting the "480 OVERRIDE" to "480i" and seeing if it works when tuned to an SD channel. I think some sat receivers also let you do this.

Various other sources, but nothing that can put out 480i on a digital connection!

Alright, best thing to do is give it a shot. At $149 it's not the end of the world if it doesn't work. I'm sure it will look pretty good if you have to set it to 720p if it doesn't.

i can try my moto 6412 output from DVI w/ the H78 if you guys need it... PM a reminder though :)

i noticed the DVI is a bit flakey from my HTPC if i don't have the H78 powered on and set to source before firing up the HTPC (i need to reboot the HTPC to get signal which makes no sense) but perhaps that was causing confusion.

the "syncing" of this is very annoying (but easily overlooked given the quality picture it produces.

I believe it does accept 480i over DVI. I have a Pioneer 74 receiver which outputs its OSD in 480i only. I was always sending it over component believing that the H78 wouldn't accept 480i over HDMI. One time I forgot to switch, and low and behold the OSD still popped up. I haven't confirmed this recently, but next time I fire up the PJ, I can confirm it for you.

Dave,
I am using the component input. The problem is that the lines are there even during the warm up with or without a source component plugged in. Each line is actually 2 lines. I noticed that when I got up close to the screen. As far as the color it looks like a light red. I already email Optoma, but I am still waiting for a response. It is odd to me that at the 5 hour mark it just appeared in the middle of a movie and will not go away. I appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks, Mark

I believe it does accept 480i over DVI. I have a Pioneer 74 receiver which outputs its OSD in 480i only. I was always sending it over component believing that the H78 wouldn't accept 480i over HDMI. One time I forgot to switch, and low and behold the OSD still popped up. I haven't confirmed this recently, but next time I fire up the PJ, I can confirm it for you.


Thanks so much. That would be useful. Also thanks to Chinch for his offer to check.

Dave,
I am using the component input. The problem is that the lines are there even during the warm up with or without a source component plugged in. Each line is actually 2 lines. I noticed that when I got up close to the screen. As far as the color it looks like a light red. I already email Optoma, but I am still waiting for a response. It is odd to me that at the 5 hour mark it just appeared in the middle of a movie and will not go away. I appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks, Mark

Dang, that definitely sounds like a job for Optoma Tech spt. Sorry I couldn't be of more help:( Let us know what they think.

Just an FYI Optoma sent me an RMA and are switching out the units for me. That is quick customer service at its finest!

I can confirm that the OSD at 480i will work over the DVI connection. Something is a little odd though. It registered it as 480x1440 digital RGB. The OSD did seem to look OK from what I could tell.

That's great JDH2! I'm glad they took care of you.

gobrigavitch ,

That's how they get 480i to work via DVI. By doubling the horizontal res to 1440 to make it fit in the DVI specs.

Hey, I'm kind of a newbie at this - my primary experience has been with motion picture projectors. Anyway, I've just set up an H78DC3 I purchased used w/200 hrs on it. I was in love with the machine from the moment the image hit the screen.

BUT there is a problem - in both bright & normal modes there's severe multi-layered halos around bright images on the screen. Also colors don't seem to be blending well (is this called banding?). When I look at color bars, blue has quite a bit of noise in it. In Normal Mode, the picture's fine in dark scenes but in light scenes or when I run finely detailed test patterns the image loses color, gets jumpy and flickers. Lifting the ground and adjusting vertical helped this problem somewhat.

Now I've swapped cables, tried both component and S-video inputs and bypassed the receiver going straight into the dvd player. Any suggestions, comments, etc. would be great as it's past Optoma's business hours and the weekend is upon us.

Thanky Kindly! :D

P.S. The problem gets progressively worse as the pj warms up.

P.P.S. I think it's given up the ghost. Now there's no signal at the RCA component input - swapped cables, etc. The area around the exhaust vent seems to be warped though hot air is blowing out. Looks like it's back to the shop for this bad boy (judging by the old address labels on the box - it's been there before). :(

The area around the exhaust vent seems to be warped though hot air is blowing out. Looks like it's back to the shop for this bad boy (judging by the old address labels on the box - it's been there before). :(
Hope you got a REALLY REALLY good deal on it! Did you spend some time here at AVS reading about the heat and bulb problems with this pj or are you just now finding this site after buying the pj? I notice this is your first post but lots of folks are readers only until they have a problem or question.

Brent