I smell at photoshop, but I like the idea of incorporating your speakers in the graphic... though if you are looking for 'logo' I'd imagine you'd want something in vector that could be easily resized and manipulated.

Ruben, how about a laser beam etching out whatever logo you choose on the front of your screen like at the rock concerts? and then a fog machine as well. Talk about POP. WOW. WHAM, and then they get hit with Danley subs!

P.S. Did you ever take pictures of how you mounted your center channel?

Hey Folks,

I am looking for a Logo for SmX. The winner with the best logo design will win a SmX Sound Screen. The contest will run for one week till Moday September 25th 2006. Winner will be determined by mass appeal and my personal judgement.

The Logo should Read "SmX Sound Screen" with SmX being dominate.
The colors I want to use is Red, Black and White. The Font I like is Copperplate which is the font used in the SmX logo below. You can use that font or another font of your choice. I want SmX to have an Uppercase "S" a lowercase "m" and an Uppercase "X"

Envision this being on the corner of the SmX screen frame on black velvet. I want it to be vectorized art as well. Keep it simple and easy to read and so the decal can have a nice die-cut shape.

Please post your Designs in the SmX Forum by clicking the link below...
SMX LOGO DESIGN CONTEST (http://www.smxscreen.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1515#post1515)

Please Do Not post your logo designs in my AVS construction thread here. I will post the top 5 designs here for the final decision at the end of the contest. Make sure you use the link above to post your designs.

Here is an idea I was toying around with. Kind of Matrix looking I guess :D

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/smx-idea.jpg

Good luck!!!

Ruben

on the pocket of a Pocket T-shirt

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y280/GoBigRed/smx2.jpg

it has to fit on a screen frame with LED red

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y280/GoBigRed/smx2-1.jpg

I guess if its going behind Rubens screen then

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y280/GoBigRed/smx3.jpg


LOL, Nice Slogan :D

P.S. Did you ever take pictures of how you mounted your center channel?

All 3 speakers behind my screen are mounted the same way with Omnimount 60.0's to the wall. Basically it's a speaker wall mount with an isolation ball and pad to prevent transfer of energy to the wall.

Ruben

Are you hooked on the slogan "Sound Screen"? I think something like "Acoustically Transparent Screen" may be a bit more descriptive and clear.

Just my .02

Daniel

I agree AT screen is better than sound screen that sounds like you are keeping sound out.

Dog, this theater is off the chain. I stumble on to this forum about a month ago, spent a week in the diy screen and then stumble on to this thread been reading it for 3 week. Just bought a house w/ a media room, tryn to hook it up. Im blown away with the the whole htpc, (over my head). Dog i plan on coping your exact htpc.

Would you change something since u had it for a couple weeks? Holla bac thanks.

Your theater is crazy! Im straight jacken. LOL

Might pay to slow down there Wap! Vista is coming, hdcp video cards are slowly becoming available and Bluray and HD DVD drives should become available and cheaper.

Any of you htpc'ers following beatboy77's thread???

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=721358

Thanks for that link Ted.

I'd figured going this route was a little way off right now needing special mobo for the HDCP as well as the HDMI graphics card and Vista to run. By the time I'm ready to upgrade my HTPC things should be a little more avaialable (hopefully).

Gary

HardOp has a list of hdcp enabled videocards and I beleive the Saphire X1600 Pro HDMI is the ony one with a hdmi, but there are DVI-hdmi adaptors and DVI-hdmi cables. Going from memory, all XT1950 and 7950 cards are hdcp enabled and there is a smattering of lesser video cards currently available.

Is a special motherboard needed for hdcp??? (I was about to spring for an Asus P5B Deluxe but hadn't heard anything about this.)

Hi Ted,

I read it somewhere on here, as apparently the HDCP has to pass from the source to the graphics card via the mobo, so that's why it has to be compliant. I've no idea if that will be the case though, but it seemed to make sense (I'm assuming beatboy77 didn't use a compliant mobo though?).

Gary

Ruben,
Could you elaborate a little more on your impressions of the Klipsch Ultra2 speakers in comparison to the other “higher” end speaker you had such as the Martin Logan and B&W? I currently just moved my 5.1 Sonus Faber system into the theater room I’ve been working on. I love the sound and soundstage for music, but I think the center channel (Sonus Faber Solo) just isn’t detailed enough. I haven’t set everything up yet, but even when I had the system in my living room I found myself straining to understand the dialog. I want to be able to watch a movie without having to try so hard. I’m powering them with a Krell HTS preamp and a Krell KAV-250a / 3 amp, so I don’t think they are underpowered. I find it hard to believe that with such amazing sound and clarity the Sonus Faber Home system has in stereo, that the center speaker would be that far off.

I don’t know maybe I have something setup wrong, but I’m very interested in the Klipsch Ultra2 for more of a movie theater experience and to clean up and give a more unified look to the front of the room. It is a dedicated home theater room, so maybe I did a wrong impulse buy thinking anything that sounded that good on music (the Sonus Faber Grand Pianos) must be a good choice for home theater.

Anyways, I’m babbling a little on my own personal situation, when I think the point is that many of us that feel that sound is just as, if not more, important than the video would be interested in having you compare the Klipsch to your previous Martin Logan and B&W speakers.

Thanks,
Daniel

I may be just a little bit biased...but coming from a long time 2 channel background, I've found the THX Ultra 2 system is imminently satisfying as a music speaker. Its' home theater performance is just about unrivaled considering the size and price range...but we've been blown away by how good the music is in every Ultra 2 system I've sold and set up. We actually had a set of B&W Nautilus 801's and the matching Nautilus center that had been traded in when the Ultra 2 system first arrived and at the time we sold Legacy. After setting the Ultra 2's up and running them in...we did a comparo just for grins with a few good clients who had been waiting to hear the U2's. To everone's surprise, it was a toss up in many categories between the Nautilus 801's and the Ultra 2's which is one heck of a testimony to the Ultra 2 design considering the entire system cost less than the B&W Left center and right. For home theater, the Ultra 2 was very obviously better...but the music performance left everybody very impressed. Legacy quickly went bye bye.

Klipsch gets booted around a lot on the audiophile forums...but once folks hear that system, they tend to get very quiet and thoughtful. It is fun to see a little "Oh!" on their faces. Oh...and did I mention that it is a KICK BUTT home theater system too :D

Kevin

I recently received my Klipsch Ultra 2 setup and did some A/B test with a few HD DVD's against a Definitive Technology Flagship Setup.

The front soundstage CLEARLY outperformed the Def Tech CLR3000 and BP7000sc in clarity and sound reprodction, the tones were as nice as I've ever heard. but I would have to say that the BPVX/P surround speakers from def tech came out on top of the KS-525-THX from Klipsch. They just seemed to have a bit more umph. There really is alot of bass information that is sent to the surrounds and the BPVX/P with their built in mini subs just made the back end of the room sound a bit fuller and more alive.

Overall I would say the Ultra 2 system is much more satisfying all around then the Def Techs so they were the clear winner and I am glad they arrived. I talked with Soundood a few times about purchasing my system from him, he was very polite and helpful I would recommend him anyday. I was actually going to buy Rubens other Danley sub from him but then I came across a crazy deal for 3x KL-650-THX and 4x KS-525-THX speakers {$2900 total} all brand new and factory sealed.

I still plan on going the Danley route in the future from Soundood, but It was just to good of a deal to pass on.

There is someone selling a Klipsch Ultra 2 system on eBay for $2700 right now. It comes with 3 KL-650-THX mains and 2 KS-525 surrounds. He also is selling the KW-120 Sub and Amp for like $1300 as a pair. The system is 1 year old the guy is saying.

Seems like a few people are selling their Klipsch Ultra 2 systems. There are used systems for sale on Audiogon as well.

Wonder why?

Dog, this theater is off the chain. I stumble on to this forum about a month ago, spent a week in the diy screen and then stumble on to this thread been reading it for 3 week. Just bought a house w/ a media room, tryn to hook it up. Im blown away with the the whole htpc, (over my head). Dog i plan on coping your exact htpc.

Would you change something since u had it for a couple weeks? Holla bac thanks.

Your theater is crazy! Im straight jacken. LOL

So, people who talk like this actually type this way as well? :p

There is someone selling a Klipsch Ultra 2 system on eBay for $2700 right now. It comes with 3 KL-650-THX mains and 2 KS-525 surrounds. He also is selling the KW-120 Sub and Amp for like $1300 as a pair. The system is 1 year old the guy is saying.

Seems like a few people are selling their Klipsch Ultra 2 systems. There are used systems for sale on Audiogon as well.

Wonder why?Maybe they discovered DIY. J/K

Everyone has a different idea of what sounds good, some people like red, some like blue, some like flat, some like bright. Its funny when people talk about speakers and how they sound because what sounds bad to them may sound great to others. If you Klipsh sound good to you, dont listen to some audiophile nutjob telling you they dont.

The Klipsh K- horns from decades ago still sound better than some of the gimmicks they throw around these days for 50K, too me anyway.

There is someone selling a Klipsch Ultra 2 system on eBay for $2700 right now. It comes with 3 KL-650-THX mains and 2 KS-525 surrounds. He also is selling the KW-120 Sub and Amp for like $1300 as a pair. The system is 1 year old the guy is saying.

Seems like a few people are selling their Klipsch Ultra 2 systems. There are used systems for sale on Audiogon as well.

Wonder why?

There are a million reasons why someone would be upgraded or downgrading. Maybe they want to go from Movies to a high end 2ch system, or they are down on there luck and need a few bucks.

You can look for any brand of speaker on ebay and audiogon, there are tons of every kind for sale at great prices. There is even a Danley DTS-20 Sub for sale on Audiogon right now. Does that mean it is not an insane sub? No, It just means it doesn't fit in with that persons lifestyle or budget anymore.

There is even a Danley DTS-20 Sub for sale on Audiogon right now.

Probably Ruben :)

Joe

That DTS-20 is for sale because the guy is moving to a condo and I'm just venturing a guess that a common wall neighbor might be just a teeny bit ticked off by somebody bring a sub capable of 124 db at 20hz :eek: :mad:

Definitely not Rubin's...that sub is supposed to have gone back to Danley to be fully checked over so it can be sold fully warranted, and will be available again once it has been blessed.

SVonhof

its harder to write then it is to talk. LOL

Whatz up big Rub? your HTPC is working good for you.

Im definitely going to take your idea of lighting up behind the screen. WICKED cool, man. I'll probably do red lights, though.

SVonhof

its harder to write then it is to talk. LOL

Whatz up big Rub? your HTPC is working good for you.

What up Cuz? Werd, my Ill ass HTPC be hittin it hard. nah mean? My jizoint be throwin' down for my dead homiez in da hizood, nah mean? This shiznit right here is the ill jump off. nah mean? Hollah back jacko. :p

One

Exactly what I have been trying to say all along

What up Cuz? Werd, my Ill ass HTPC be hittin it hard. nah mean? My jizoint be throwin' down for my dead homiez in da hizood, nah mean? This shiznit right here is the ill jump off. nah mean? Hollah back jacko. :p

One


Ahhh, the smile of my day so far. Thanks! :D


BTW, if you want to have some fun with this, please go visit: www.gizoogle.com (http://www.gizoogle.com) Enter any domain name, and watch it get translated into, well, you'll see. In fact, go ahead and gizoogle the avsforum.com home page, you should get some laughs.

Now, back to the show!

Good find WarrenP... I laughed my ass off:

http://sites.gizoogle.com/index2.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.avsforum.com%2Favs-vb%2Findex.php%3F

Bud

The eBay auctions for Klipsch Ultra2 have been scams. I reported one and it was pulled almost immediately. They ask you to email and then they try to get you to send money overseas. SCAM!!

Thnks smx,

I knew u were feeling me; u heard me. On the real, I might have to try some of that SMX screen.

Good find WarrenP... I laughed my ass off:

http://sites.gizoogle.com/index2.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.avsforum.com%2Favs-vb%2Findex.php%3F

Bud

Man that link was the funniest thing I've seen in the last 2 years. I was laughing so hard I was crying. That is too funny.

"DVD Movie, Concerts, n Music Discussion n Reviews (29 Ho-slappin'
Chizzat on movies, concerts n tha like. This is not tha area fo` chizzay on DVD gangsta or pimp or multi-chizzles formats. NOTE...We do not allow tha C-H-to-tha-izzat on copy'n of software."

Ruben

Glad you guys liked the link. Gizoogle.com has been around a while, and is always good for a laugh. I love to put serious stuff in there, so funny. My wife is a scrapbooker, and to see one of those pages translated... lots of fun. :)

Man that link was the funniest thing I've seen in the last 2 years. I was laughing so hard I was crying. That is too funny.

"DVD Movie, Concerts, n Music Discussion n Reviews (29 Ho-slappin'
Chizzat on movies, concerts n tha like. This is not tha area fo` chizzay on DVD gangsta or pimp or multi-chizzles formats. NOTE...We do not allow tha C-H-to-tha-izzat on copy'n of software."

Ruben


Good find WarrenP... I laughed my ass off:

http://sites.gizoogle.com/index2.ph...%2Findex.php%3F

Bud

Little update,

I was searching High and Low for some damn step lights that fit into my precut steps. Everywhere I went or looked they were too big, then I bought some online and got them and they were too big as well.

So the other day I was searching online for some Gooseneck track lights to use behind my SmX screen to concentrate the light better on the speakers then I came across this place in Boca Raton called Light Bulbs Etc. Every other place that had the goosenecks in stock only had them in white so I was going to get them in white and paint them black.

Then once I called Light Bulbs Etc. here in Boca they had 11 of them in Black. So I rushed over there to get them and while I was sitting in there at the counter I saw 4 step lights in black sitting on the counter. So I opened up a box and low and behold, it was exactly what I been looking for. They gave me a little transformer to pop in line and it was all set. So I finally got my step lights installed. It took me 6 months to find them, but I found them.

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/Step-Lights-Web/IMG_5464.jpg

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/Step-Lights-Web/IMG_5470.jpg

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/Step-Lights-Web/IMG_5473.jpg

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/Step-Lights-Web/IMG_5475.jpg

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/Step-Lights-Web/IMG_5479.jpg

Ruben

Ruben,

How much were the step lights and do they have any more? And did you hook them up to your Grafikeye?

Joe

Ruben,

How much were the step lights and do they have any more? And did you hook them up to your Grafikeye?

Joe

They were $30 each, yes they have more.
Yes, they are hooked up to one of my Grafik Eye Zones.

I just grabbed an empty box and looked up the light online
Its a Dabmar lv106

http://www.dabmar.com/Page_B/lv603.htm

They have them here locally...

Light Bulbs Unlimited
Address: 2273 N Federal Hwy, Boca Raton, FL 33431
Phone: (561) 338-5211

Ruben,

How much were the step lights and do they have any more? And did you hook them up to your Grafikeye?

Joe

You can order them on-line for $24.29 at

http://www.arcadianlighting.com/lv-603.html

I actually have 8 of them in my spare lights parts if anyone wants them, same identical light with black thumb screws instead of phillips. Mine have the boxes and I have mini transformers too. I wish I knew these were what you were after Ruben

Funny, I have the same thing in my theater. It only took me a week to find them, though. ;)

Mine also have the thumb screws. Those are the same lights I have on the end panels of my seats as well.

Funny, I have the same thing in my theater. It only took me a week to find them, though. ;)

Mine also have the thumb screws. Those are the same lights I have on the end panels of my seats as well.

I don't think I was looking hard enough. I saw the ones with the thumbscrews at home depot. They were too big as well, I needed a shallow box. Well at least it is now one more thing I get to check off the "To Do" list.

Ruben

Are there any Z-Wave dealers here on AVS? If so, please PM me.
I am thinking about doing all the lighting in my house with Z-Wave RF switchers.
I may need about 50 Switches to start.

Thanks
Ruben

Ruben,

Regarding your HAi thermostats. If I read the info from the HAI website correctly these thermostats can be run via a serial connection. If you can get a serial cable from the thermostat to your htPC then you are all set. We can easily make it work. I am guessing that running serial over cat5 cable will work great too.

Joe

So Guys,

I decided to Make Cinemar my final choice for my theater and home automation. I was toying aroung with a few other automation softwares and decided I like Cinemar the best. I will be using it to control the lighting and temperature for my whole home as well as my theater.

I decided to go with Cinemar because the layouts you can make are endless and you can make some really super slick screens. Plus they have a plugin for TheaterTek which is my main movie player that I use. Their light control screens are incredible showing fans running in rooms and lights dimmed, etc.

I was thinking about using Control4 but I decided I don't like their unupgradable user system software.

Cestron and AMX are just too expensive and charge $500 to uprgade your software everytime you buy a new piece of equipment you'll be using with it. Plus if something happens with it, your assed out until a programmer shows up and fixes your issue.

So the next week here I will be setting it all up and posting some screen shots when done. I already started doing some layouts for it.

Ruben

So I figured I would post what I am doing now with my whole home and home theater automation.

First off I wanted to be able to control all the lights and tempurature in my house from my remote control and touch screen.

Unfortunately, my lighting in my house is not on its own individual breakers. My lighting and outlets for each room are tied together and run to a breaker for that room. So I needed to find a reliable solution to controlling my lights without rewiring my whole house.

So I first looked at x10, then ZWave, then Lutron Radio RF dimmers and finally insteon. x10 basically works off of your line voltage and sends signals through it to control devices. This is not 100% reliable because there are breaks in your lines and the signal sometimes does not make it to the receiving devices.

Then you have Zwave which is a dual mesh technology that uses RF signals and as well, uses the line voltage like the x10. After speaking to many automated zwave distributors, installers and users, everyone semed to recommend not using them due to their unreliability. So that killed the possibility of me using Zwave.

So next was Lutron Radio RF dimmer switches which uses the same technology as Zwave but is more reliable and more money. The Lutron dimmers average around $80-$90 per switch, whereas the Zwave switches are $40 each and x10 switches are around $10 each.

So after talking to many dealers, distributors, users and installers over the last 2 days, everyone recommended Insteon. Insteon is the same idea as Zwave, Lutron RadioRF and x10 and cost the same as Zwave except has a 99.97 reliability factor. So insteon is what I went with to control all the lighting in my home.

Here is a little info aout Insteon vs x10

A way to control your lights and appliances. INSTEON gives your hardwired lights, plug in lamps, and appliances an INSTEON address. Anything with an INSTEON address in your home can be controlled by INSTEON controllers. INSTEON uses an RF bridge to couple the two legs of your split phase electrical service . SmartLabs does not support INSTEON for 3 phase systems. INSTEON addresses are different than X10 addresses in that they are wholly unique, unlike the limited 256 possible addresses used in the X10 protocol.

Q2. Isn't INSTEON just like X10 only better? How is it better? What is the difference?

A2. Several things make INSTEON different from X10...

1. Both are powerline carriers, meaning they use the existing powerline in your home to communicate from product to product. However, INSTEON uses a duel-mesh network. RF link between two signal enhancers that bridge across the electrical phases in your home. In the future, more INSTEON products may be RF enabled.

2. INSTEON products make a network that is self re-enforcing for signal strength. Maintaining signal strength is X10's biggest challenge. INSTEON products, for the most part, inherently solve this issue.

3. The INSTEON network also has some built-in intelligence. The switches send back confirmation messages when they have received their commands. This helps assure reliability.

4. Each switch has it's own unique identification, called a MAC address (Media Access Control address). This allows many more possible addresses to be included in an INSTEON network. X10 only have 256 possible addresses.

5. INSTEON products can be associated with each other in almost unlimited ways through "LINKING". Each link can carry it's own settings for it's association with an INSTEON point of control, like a programmable button on a keypad, tabletop controller, or a 'master wall switch' that you create the links for, making INSTEON more flexible that almost any other remotely controllable lighting system on the market.

6. The switches are aesthetically very pleasing, and can be made to fit in with almost any décor.

7. The switches are very easy to install, because they are 25% thinner on the backside than other full-featured X10 switches on the market.

Q3. So why should I go with INSTEON instead of X10?

A3. One of X10's main weaknesses is signal strength loss, either from distance traveled, or interference from other devices, or perhaps the house that It is installed in does not have any X10 troubleshooting devices in place (like boosters, couplers, etc.).

With INSTEON, each of the INSTEON nodes (switches, modules, etc) is a repeater (like a booster) for INSTEON communications. This makes up for the main weakness of X10. The INSTEON system also has a way of coupling (bridging) across the phases in your home without a hardwired device (usually wired into your electrical panel) or a 220 outlet needed for getting the signal from one phase to the other.

With INSTEON we use 2 special RF linking devices that plug into regular grounded outlets for the signal bridging, so no special hardwired or 220 outlet is needed. Boosters are also not needed (in a system that has numerous INSTEON components) since the INSTEON products all repeat the INSTEON signal, making it a self-reinforcing system. X10 does not do this.

Q4. Ok, but INSTEON says it is compatible with X10. What does that mean exactly?

A4. All of the INSTEON switches and module are able to be given an X10 address, and controlled by X10 commands, and our V2 line of INSTEON products can be part of numerous Smarthome X10 Scenes.

Ruben

Ruben...

I've come to the same conclusions re: Insteon as well.

We're doing a complete remodel of our new house here, and I'm doing all the low-voltage wiring myself, as I have in our last couple of homes. I've decided on Insteon for the same reasons you have... it not only came out on top of the list for reliability, but it seemed to be a good bang for the buck, with basic switches only around $35.. I've since talked to a friend who has a modest Insteon system. He has had no problems with the system (no x10 type nightmares), and is very happy (he uses it only downstairs in the entertainmnent areas of his house.)

I had also been leaning toward Cinemar's ML product as a whole house controller, but as we're still in the demo/pouring footers phase, I hadn't made my mind up until your last post. That's when I re-visited the web site and saw how many more plug-ins they've added since the first part of the year.

I was already going with an Elk M1 Gold alarm system, and now that ML can interface with that (and both systems can interface with Insteon), I'm sold.

Now, hopefully ML will get a plug-in made for the Sonos system, which is what I"m using for whole-house music, and I'll be set.

Thanks for the affirmation on what I was leaning toward...

Chip

Funny - I guess we all think alike out here. I've got Insteon throughout my house with the new software (which is a bit clunky but works, mostly) to control it and I have an 8 zone Sonos system too.

I had RadioRA in my previous house and it worked flawlessly but was 2-3x the price of Insteon.

Ruben, I look forward to seeing how you tie all this stuff together.

Funny - I guess we all think alike out here. I've got Insteon throughout my house with the new software (which is a bit clunky but works, mostly) to control it and I have an 8 zone Sonos system too.

I had RadioRA in my previous house and it worked flawlessly but was 2-3x the price of Insteon.

Ruben, I look forward to seeing how you tie all this stuff together.

How is the Insteon working for you? As flawlessly as the Lutron?

Regarding the software, with Cinemar you won't need to use the insteon software. Cinemar has an Insteon plugin taht communicates directly with the insteon USB controller.

Joe

How is the Insteon working for you? As flawlessly as the Lutron?

Regarding the software, with Cinemar you won't need to use the insteon software. Cinemar has an Insteon plugin taht communicates directly with the insteon USB controller.

Joe


And, as Ruben pointed out, it lets you create nifty room-layout diagrams to show you what lights/fans/controlled units are off/on.

Thanks again Ruben, for doing such great job on researching items. You may know this but you have many followers who rely on your attention to detail. You research it and we buy. I am also looking at a home auto system and will probably go with ireston and cinmar b/c of your great research. I have started building your computer (our computer :p ). Now i wish i had the funds like you :( wife is trippen on the price :eek:.

holla

Insteon is working fine. No, its not as flawless as RadioRA but for the price, its more than workable.

I don't really need the cinemar stuff as switches and keypads on the wall work very well to control lighting ;) - especially for the rest of my family and guests who would just be confused by a touch panel or other device to turn on a light. The SH software is rudimentary but it works to setup everything and I have timers and events that work well now.

I understand the appeal of Mario's stuff and I've looked at it several times, but, in the Theater and other AV situations I'm a "hard-button" guy. I even ditched the pronto and all other touch screens for my trusty MX-800 and MX-500s because I like to just "feel and hit" my play/pause etc. buttons with one hand.


As for music, the Sonos interface and controllers are very good so I don't really see a need to expand on that - but that's just me.

Insteon is working fine. No, its not as flawless as RadioRA but for the price, its more than workable.

So when you say Insteon is not as flawless as Lutron, what are the flaws Insteon has? It is suppose to have a 99.97% success rate.

Ruben

RadioRA was always rock solid, never had any issue at all. Insteon is pretty solid. As I said, definitely solid enough for normal use. Here are the "issues" I've had:

1) When you press a button on a RadioRA keypad everything tied to it responds instantly. Press "All off" and the whole house turns off right then. When you do the same with an Insteon keypad things respond, but slower. Depending on how many devices you have linked it can take anywhere from a couple to 15 or 20 seconds for everything to respond.

2) The above is exaggerated if you are using a separate controller to make the events happen. The software has some cool features like the ability to make a set of devices respond to double touches of keypads. When you run these events through the software there can be more of a lag.

3) I have had a couple of power surges hit my house where the power blinked off for a second or two. Each time, one of my Insteon keypads (different ones each time) went into some sort of "stuck" mode where all the backlights were on very dimly and it wouldn't respond to any button presses. I had to do a factory reset on the keypad and re-program all its functionality but the keypads did work properly after that.

4) Setting up the house is a bit trickier with Insteon than RadioRA. With RA you just put your repeaters in some obvious locations and everything talked nicely. With Insteon it takes a bit more trial and error in placing your Signal Enhancers around such that everything can talk together. But, once you do that, it works fine.

5) Tieing switches together in multiway circuits is a bit trickier with Insteon too - but also more flexible. RadioRA has special "accessory" switches/dimmers that go on multi-way circuits so they always are properly tied to their main switch (will always display the proper state of the controlled load). Insteon doesn't have any special switches for multi-ways. You just wire in a switch with no hookup to the load (cap off the traveller) and then use the programming functionality to tie it to the proper circuit. This drove my electrician nuts at first because he couldn't see how we were going to control a light when we didn't wire anything to it. I'm sure he thought it wouldn't work. It does work, but you have to be sure you cross tie everything properly so that the status lights work right. I still have some switches that aren't linked both ways I think because I keep finding switches with their LEDs all the way up when the light is off. Properly setup, this isn't an issue, though - except in one case and that is with sub buttons on a keypad. I have a keypad in my bedroom and when I hit the big "on" switch I want three different sets of lights to come on at pre-set levels. This works fine, but I also set the sub buttons to control the different lights independently. The problem is that when I hit the big "on/off" button the sub buttons aren't going to turn on and off properly because I cannot link them to the main on/off buttons as that would cause them to no longer control the individual loads properly. So, the net of all this is that the sub buttons pretty much never show the proper state of the load they are tied to so you may have to hit them twice to get them to operate properly.

6) The keypads are a bit cheesier looking than the RadioRA ones but I got over this pretty quickly.

7) I have a pet peeve with the backlights on the Insteon keypads and even the LEDs on the dimmers/switches - they are really bright. A keypad lights up my bedroom at night and I have it on the "dim" setting. I got over this pretty quickly too but it would really bother me in a theater room (I know you already have a GE in there so not an issue for you).


Having said all of that, there are things I can do with Insteon that I couldn't do with RadioRA - like the double click thing - and even though it is a bit slower to respond, everything does seem to work just fine in my Insteon system. I have no regrets about choosing it over RadioRA this time because it gives me the ability to have so much more of my house controlled for less money.

RadioRA was always rock solid, never had any issue at all. Insteon is pretty solid. As I said, definitely solid enough for normal use. Here are the "issues" I've had:

1) When you press a button on a RadioRA keypad everything tied to it responds instantly. Press "All off" and the whole house turns off right then. When you do the same with an Insteon keypad things respond, but slower. Depending on how many devices you have linked it can take anywhere from a couple to 15 or 20 seconds for everything to respond.

2) The above is exaggerated if you are using a separate controller to make the events happen. The software has some cool features like the ability to make a set of devices respond to double touches of keypads. When you run these events through the software there can be more of a lag.

3) I have had a couple of power surges hit my house where the power blinked off for a second or two. Each time, one of my Insteon keypads (different ones each time) went into some sort of "stuck" mode where all the backlights were on very dimly and it wouldn't respond to any button presses. I had to do a factory reset on the keypad and re-program all its functionality but the keypads did work properly after that.

4) Setting up the house is a bit trickier with Insteon than RadioRA. With RA you just put your repeaters in some obvious locations and everything talked nicely. With Insteon it takes a bit more trial and error in placing your Signal Enhancers around such that everything can talk together. But, once you do that, it works fine.

5) Tieing switches together in multiway circuits is a bit trickier with Insteon too - but also more flexible. RadioRA has special "accessory" switches/dimmers that go on multi-way circuits so they always are properly tied to their main switch (will always display the proper state of the controlled load). Insteon doesn't have any special switches for multi-ways. You just wire in a switch with no hookup to the load (cap off the traveller) and then use the programming functionality to tie it to the proper circuit. This drove my electrician nuts at first because he couldn't see how we were going to control a light when we didn't wire anything to it. I'm sure he thought it wouldn't work. It does work, but you have to be sure you cross tie everything properly so that the status lights work right. I still have some switches that aren't linked both ways I think because I keep finding switches with their LEDs all the way up when the light is off. Properly setup, this isn't an issue, though - except in one case and that is with sub buttons on a keypad. I have a keypad in my bedroom and when I hit the big "on" switch I want three different sets of lights to come on at pre-set levels. This works fine, but I also set the sub buttons to control the different lights independently. The problem is that when I hit the big "on/off" button the sub buttons aren't going to turn on and off properly because I cannot link them to the main on/off buttons as that would cause them to no longer control the individual loads properly. So, the net of all this is that the sub buttons pretty much never show the proper state of the load they are tied to so you may have to hit them twice to get them to operate properly.

6) The keypads are a bit cheesier looking than the RadioRA ones but I got over this pretty quickly.

7) I have a pet peeve with the backlights on the Insteon keypads and even the LEDs on the dimmers/switches - they are really bright. A keypad lights up my bedroom at night and I have it on the "dim" setting. I got over this pretty quickly too but it would really bother me in a theater room (I know you already have a GE in there so not an issue for you).


Having said all of that, there are things I can do with Insteon that I couldn't do with RadioRA - like the double click thing - and even though it is a bit slower to respond, everything does seem to work just fine in my Insteon system. I have no regrets about choosing it over RadioRA this time because it gives me the ability to have so much more of my house controlled for less money.

Thanks for the breakdown ebr.

Ruben

Here is what I ordered today to begin the Home Automation Installation.

1 - ELK M1 GOLD Security and Automation System Panel

1 - M1 LIGHTING & THERMOSTAT INTERFACE - 12837

1 - INSTEON PowerLinc V2 Controller for the ELK-M1

50 - INSTEON SWITCHLINC V2 DIMMERS - 2476D

1 - 2-PACK INSTEON SIGNALINC RF - 2442P

1 - INSTEON POWERLINC CONTROLLER V2 USB - 2414U

1 - PANASONIC 971361 PAN/TILT WIRELESS CAMERA (IP-WEB)

2 - 3001 RS-485 THERMOSTATS

All this will tie into Cinemars Main Lobby so I can control

Whole house lighting
Temperature
Security Cameras (Pan, Tilt & Zoom)
Appliances (Ceiling Fans)

All the lighting, temperature and aplliances will talk back to the touchscreen remote via MainLobby to indicate if they are on or off, how dim the lights are, current temperature settings, Speed of ceiling fans, etc.

Ruben

Is it possible to use a system like this to control a ceiling fan in conjunction with an HVAC thermostat. Let me explain ... our bedroom has a vaulted ceiling which is great in the summer because the hot air is up where we don't want it and the register is up high as well and sucks all the hot air out when the system is on. Unfortunately the exact opposite is true in the winter. The hot air is up high where we DON'T want it and it gets sucked out immediately while the system runs (registers are on the ceiling as well) and so our room tends to be colder than the rest of the house. If I turn the ceiling fan on real low with the fan blades pointed so it pushes the air down then the room is nice and toasty as it pushes the hot air from the registers to the floor before it can get sucked out the return vent (which I would assume gets the air displaced from the floor by the ceiling fan since it has to come from somewhere). However, just leaving the ceiling fan running doesn't work either as once the furnace turns off the room gets too cold from the breeze (I guess that's what it is). But if I turn the ceiling fan off as soon as the furnace shuts off the room is perfect.

So what I'd love is for a setup that turns the ceiling fan on when the furnace is on and turns it off when the furnace is off. Any suggestions from those of you that are familiar with this type of equipment?

Thanks,
Mike

Ruben,

Thanks for sharing your impressive build with the community here at AVS… incredible job.

If you have any Insteon related questions, stop by sometime.

AccessHA com
Access Home Automation

Is it possible to use a system like this to control a ceiling fan in conjunction with an HVAC thermostat. Let me explain ... our bedroom has a vaulted ceiling which is great in the summer because the hot air is up where we don't want it and the register is up high as well and sucks all the hot air out when the system is on. Unfortunately the exact opposite is true in the winter. The hot air is up high where we DON'T want it and it gets sucked out immediately while the system runs (registers are on the ceiling as well) and so our room tends to be colder than the rest of the house. If I turn the ceiling fan on real low with the fan blades pointed so it pushes the air down then the room is nice and toasty as it pushes the hot air from the registers to the floor before it can get sucked out the return vent (which I would assume gets the air displaced from the floor by the ceiling fan since it has to come from somewhere). However, just leaving the ceiling fan running doesn't work either as once the furnace turns off the room gets too cold from the breeze (I guess that's what it is). But if I turn the ceiling fan off as soon as the furnace shuts off the room is perfect.

So what I'd love is for a setup that turns the ceiling fan on when the furnace is on and turns it off when the furnace is off. Any suggestions from those of you that are familiar with this type of equipment?

Thanks,
Mike

Abolutely doable. The thermostat will tell your control software (Cinemar) when it turns the furnace on and off. When it turns it off you can then have the software tell the fan to shut off and vice versa.

edit: BTW, Air movement does not affect a thermostat. Only temperature. So your fan pushing the warm air back down is, like you said, warming the room up. So the thermostat is seeing that warmer temperature and turning the furnace off.

Joe

Is it possible to use a system like this to control a ceiling fan in conjunction with an HVAC thermostat.Sure.

So what I'd love is for a setup that turns the ceiling fan on when the furnace is on and turns it off when the furnace is off. Any suggestions from those of you that are familiar with this type of equipment?
How is your fan currently controlled? Is it simply connected to an on/off switch or do you have a remote installed?

You can use a system like Ruben describes to setup conditions like:.
IF the room reaches a certain temperature
THEN turn on the fan

AccessHA com
Access Home Automation

Abolutely doable. The thermostat will tell your control software (Cinemar) when it turns the furnace on and off. When it turns it off you can then have the software tell the fan to shut off and vice versa.

Joe

Any links to where I could learn about the equipment and software I would need? And more importantly how much it will cost :p

Thanks,
Mike

Any links to where I could learn about the equipment and software I would need? And more importantly how much it will cost :p

Thanks,
Mike
Mike,

See my first post.

Ruben, not positive how big your house is but I'm guessing you will need a couple more signalLincs. I have 6 in my house.

Ruben

When you get a chance check you PM's. I have sent you two.

Update,

All my automated electronics arrived today. HEre is a quick picture of the Insteon light dimmer switch. I have 50 of these to install, lucky me :rolleyes:

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/IMG_5552.jpg

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/IMG_5549.jpg

Ruben

Ruben,

Other than the number of LEDs, can you tell the difference between the v2 and the ICON switches? They seem to provide the same functionality at the 1/2 the price.

Joe

Joe - I can answer that as I have a few of the Icons in my system.

The Icon has a lower wattage rating than the std dimmer (300 vs. 600 I think). Also it has fewer options on ramp rates as well as not having any dimmer indicator lights. Other than that, they are pretty much functionally identical.

I put some Icons in some little-used locations where I still wanted control but didn't have to have the nice lights (front porch, under counter lights in kitchen, etc.). If you have some locations like that it can save you some $$ to use the Icons.

Ruben,

Other than the number of LEDs, can you tell the difference between the v2 and the ICON switches? They seem to provide the same functionality at the 1/2 the price.

Joe

Hi Joe,

THe On/Off ICON switches don't dim. They are only for on and off. These ones I have dim so you can create moods for all your lighting. The On/Off ICONs are good for appliances with motors that need a direct on and off switch and fluorescent lighting. They do have dimmable ICON swithes though as ebr stated.

I got 20 light switches installed so far on the first floor of my house. It looks like I have one bad switch so far out of the first 20. I figured I will finish the rest tomorrow during the day when I can see what I am doing instead of dragging out extention cords and work lights tonight.

I also got a big water bubble blister on my index finger from twisting on 80 caps. It took me about 2 hours to do 20 light switches. I am going to see what else I need to do software wise to get these running off my PC with Main Lobby.

Ruben

Joe - I can answer that as I have a few of the Icons in my system.

The Icon has a lower wattage rating than the std dimmer (300 vs. 600 I think). Also it has fewer options on ramp rates as well as not having any dimmer indicator lights. Other than that, they are pretty much functionally identical.

I put some Icons in some little-used locations where I still wanted control but didn't have to have the nice lights (front porch, under counter lights in kitchen, etc.). If you have some locations like that it can save you some $$ to use the Icons.


I just spoke to an Insteon rep and asked him the difference and he suggested to use them in closets at most for a higher end install. Also you can only control up to 30 Icons with 1 scene, whereas the V2's can do up to 417 switches with one scene. And 2 year warranty vs 1 year with the ICON.

Here are the the differences...

Scroll down to the chart..
http://www.smarthome.com/2876db.html

Z-wave is only RF and doesn't use line voltage. Insteon seems to have lots of issues on the home automation forums. Check out www.cocoontech.com if want read up on home automation stuff.

LOL, Stupid me!!! I was looking and looking at this page and never clicked on the plus button to expand it and see the chart!!

Joe

OK, I have done some more reading and I think I understand but I am not sure.

If I am going to use MainLobby to control the lighting in the house do I really care about "scenes" in the dimmers themeselves? I would probably cinfgure maijnlobby to make the scenes.

Also I don't believe the speed of the level change is very important to me. A fixed .1 second would be fine. That would mean it will take 10 seconds to take an ICON dimmer from off to full. Correct? I cannot imagine a case where I would want 9 minutes between levels like the V2 dimmer offers.

I am only asking this mainly because of the price difference between the dimmers.

Joe

OK folks,

So I downloaded some free simple program from Smarthome to test out the 20 switches I installed so far. Everything works perfect so far.

This is what I did...

First I replaced 20 of my existing light switches with THESE (http://www.smarthome.com/2476d.html)

Then I downloaded this simple free software to test the lights
Smarthome Manager Essential, Timer Software (.exe file) 3mb

Then I hooked up THIS (http://www.smarthome.com/2414u.html) to an outlet by my HTPC and hooked it up to the USB on my HTPC. This device sends the RF signal and line signal to the dimmer switches its called the POWERLINC CONTROLLER

Then I plugged in 2 of THESE (http://www.smarthome.com/2442p.html) in hidden outlets on the same floor of my house.

Then I opened the software and held a button on the POWERLINC CONTROLLER for 10 seconds until the software registered it and then you go push one of the light switches for 10 seconds until the software on the PC see the device ID. Then you name that dimmer and repeat the step again for each dimmer.

Right now I am controllng the lights in my driveway, swimming pool, courtyard, whole first floor all from my touch screen remote.

Pretty fricken rockin :D

Ruben

Ruben,

Do you know if the lights can be controlled via command line options or other "hidden" means? I'd like to be able to control my lights without having the software running in the background. I do that now via Girder and a Firecracker interface for X-10.

It sounds like a sweet setup!

Russell

...
Also I don't believe the speed of the level change is very important to me. A fixed .1 second would be fine. That would mean it will take 10 seconds to take an ICON dimmer from off to full. Correct? I cannot imagine a case where I would want 9 minutes between levels like the V2 dimmer offers.

...

No, a .1 second ramp rate means the light basically turns on to its pre-set on-level instantly (in 1/10th of a second). That is the default, however, I like to use a .5 second ramp rate. Partially because that's what I was used to (that is the default with RadioRA) and partially because its kinda cool when your lights turn on and off "softly" like that.

The long ramp rates can be useful if you want to setup a timer that basically brings the lights up as the sun sets or something. Other than that, I agree, they're not really useful in real life situations.

Ruben,

Do you know if the lights can be controlled via command line options or other "hidden" means? I'd like to be able to control my lights without having the software running in the background. I do that now via Girder and a Firecracker interface for X-10.

It sounds like a sweet setup!

Russell

I believe you can assign X-10 addresses to Insteon devices and control them that way. Plus, there are several HA software packages that now support Insteon so there must be an API to send Insteon messages as well. Not sure how you get access to it, but maybe you could.

ebr,

The problem with using X-10 to control Insteon devices is that you loose the reliability and repeater functions of the insteon switches. I looked at insteon a while back and spoke to the smarthome folks about using insteon in X-10 mode. They advised that insteon switches in X-10 mode would be no more reliable than regular X-10 switches :(

The api for insteon is available for $100 =), I bought it and am working on a customer control solution for kicks =). Heck if it gets good maybe i'll sell it one day.

Ruben,

Do you know if the lights can be controlled via command line options or other "hidden" means? I'd like to be able to control my lights without having the software running in the background. I do that now via Girder and a Firecracker interface for X-10.

It sounds like a sweet setup!

RussellI believe Girder supports Insteon or they have a beta driver.

I believe Girder supports Insteon or they have a beta driver.

Yes they do and Cinemar is working on a beta.

Joe

Yes they do and Cinemar is working on a beta.

JoeActually, Cinemar's is available now.

Actually, Cinemar's is available now.

I just went to their website and it said it is still in beta.

Joe

Check this link:

http://www.cinemaronline.com/mlserver.mllighting.html

Check this link:

http://www.cinemaronline.com/mlserver.mllighting.html

Ah, thanks. I was looking under the mlserver plugins from the link on the mlserver page and it stated there it was still under beta.

Joe

That is correct. The Insteon Driver is available for MainLobby. We are continuing to add features though. We'll soon have an update that allows users to build groups and turn them on / off with a single command. The nice thing is that all the lights in that group will turn on/off rather than in a sequence.

Ruben,

By using the plugin, you won't have to do as many presses to the Set buttons like you have been. You only have to do it from the Switch to the PLC, but we are working on eliminating that step as well in a future release.

If you think you are having fun now, wait until you have it integrated into MainLobby and can select and control lights from the touch screen as well as see status. Or a ceiling fan spinning when it is on.

http://www.cinemaronline.com/images/320.240.guigraphix0019.08.jpg

You can even dislay lifelike switches within MainLobby:
http://www.cinemaronline.com/images/320.240.guigraphix0019.11.jpg

I can't believe Insteon is charging for the API ?

I'll look into Girder, though I am still running the old version so it probably isn't compatible.

Cinemar is looking light a really nice solution. I looked at Mainlobby way back in the day and decided it didn't have the additional features above myHTPC to warrant the price, but it looks like it's getting there now. I may have to look into Mainlobby for a future upgrade.

Russell

Hi Russell,

Yes - we've been very busy the past year adding support for a lot of new devices. We just released the other day support for the NetCallerID box and an Speech plugin. So if you have an incoming call, you can have a voice speak the name and number of the caller over your whole house system.

You might act fast, we have a special right now running on MainLobby 3/MLServer 3 combo that expires September 30th.

Hey Mario. Sorry to hijack Ruben's thread here but its been quite a while since I last looked at your stuff (at least one theater build ago :)). The only touchpanel device I have is an old progear. Did you ever get ML to run acceptably on such a low-powered device?

As I said before I am a "hard button" kind of guy, but I'm sure your interface would be much easier for the wife and kids to operate...

[Sorry, Ruben - Mario perhaps you can PM me to take this out of Sandman's thread]

Hey Mario. Sorry to hijack Ruben's thread here but its been quite a while since I last looked at your stuff (at least one theater build ago :)). The only touchpanel device I have is an old progear. Did you ever get ML to run acceptably on such a low-powered device?

As I said before I am a "hard button" kind of guy, but I'm sure your interface would be much easier for the wife and kids to operate...

[Sorry, Ruben - Mario perhaps you can PM me to take this out of Sandman's thread]

Naw, don't worry. Ruben is into this part of the process big time right now. I am sure he won't mind at all. In fact, I am going to be extremely rude ;) and copy a post that Mark P asked that I put into his thread. I think ,ebr, that you will find an answer to your tactile as well as graphic interface needs in my next post. :)

Joe

Here is an exact copy of my other post. If Ruben wishes me to delete it I will be moe than happy to.

Joe

---------------------------------
based on the title of this thread I am sure that this post is way off topic but Mark PMed me and asked if I would begin commenting here about the automation work that I have been doing.

Ok,

I thought that I would lay down some of my thoughts and experiences in working with the automation stuff.

First a few caveats:

1. I have spent about 9 months reviewing and testing different product combinations. I wanted a reliable and flexible solution that not only was priced reasonably but that fit my needs for capabilities and growth potential.

2. I am extremely computer literate so I probably lean more toward computer based solutions as they are not difficult for me.

3. After I had chosen Cinemar and Xantech for my combined solutions Mario hired my son as his flash developer. Although there are no current version of products with my son's work in them (all future stuff) I just want to make sure everyone understands that. Also, this did not make the financial part of Cinemar advantageous as I have paid full retail for all of the Cinemar software that I have.

4. I am just a DIY guy. I am no professional installer and I don't carry, sell, or recommend anything that I have not personally experienced.

5. These are all my personal opinions and nothing more. Please use them as you might see fit.

Ok, so here goes.

I have tried and/or used the following products: Cinemar, Xantech, Homeseer, USB-UIRT, CharmedQuark, Girder, X-10, Grafik-Eye, Windows Media Center, XP, CE, Pronto, Harmony, other non-name brand remotes, TheaterTek and more.

Devices that I am controlling X-10 lights, Grafik-Eye, Denon Receiver, 2 digital cable boxes, PVR, satellite box, DVD changer, DVD player, A/V house distribution system, multiple RF modulators, custom htPC which includes MP3 music and copied DVD movies, projector, multiple TVs.

My goals were to have whole house solution with a totally customizable graphical user interface that could interface with all of the devices above as well as the capability to control the same devices with a non-graphical handheld remote control.

With the exception of the X-10 lighting all of the devices above could be controlled via IR. Some have a serial control port but I focused mainly in IR. The only device that I am using serial control for is the Sony DVD changer.

With the requirement of both a customizable graphic interface as well as a handheld remote interface I narrowed the tools that I used down to Cinemar, Xantech, usb-uirt, and JP1 capable handheld remotes. I have successfully integrated all of these technologies into a suite that controls all of the devices in my house. I can talk about each of these in turn and why I chose them.

Cinemar - This is the main guts of which everything works. The combination of Cinemar and the usb-uirt device handles about 70% of the workload. The usb-uirt plugin from Cinemar provides the capability to learn and store the IR signals for each device that I wish to control as well as each button on the remotes for each device I wish to control. One afternoon I sat down and learned into the cinemar usbuirt plugin all of the remote control codes from all of the remotes that I have. Once having done this I now have the capability to "play" these codes on the htPC and the usbuirt device will transmit the appropriate ir signals. With cinemar's customizable screens it is then rather easy to associate an ir signal or series of ir signals to a button on the screen. Click the button and the ir signals are sent. It is literally that easy.

I know that the pronto and other remotes can do a similar activity but as I advance in the complexity of controlling the environment, with cinemar, I can begin to use state variables to keep track of whether devices are on or off, I can issue commands to the htPC windows environment and run programs, I can perform any activity on the Internet, and a host of other possibilities.

Xantech - I mainly use xantech for IR routing through the house and to the devices. It is fairly straight forward and works very well. The trickiest problem that I had with the IR was controlling the 2 cable boxes from different locations. Both cable boxes took the same ir signals so if my wife was watching the LIFE channel in the kitchen and I went to the theater and wanted to watch football it would also change the channel she was watching. Xantech makes a routable ir controller. So I simply tell this controller which port to routh the next coming ir signals and I can control which cable box sees which ir signals at what time. I thought this was just plain slick.

JP1 remotes - as I mentioned above I tried prontos, harmonys, and a myriad of other learning and programmable remotes. By accident I ran across JP1 remotes. These are remotes that are manufactured by a single Chinese company and have programmable eprom. A group of people have developed software that through a connection can completely program these remotes. I am in my early testing with the JP1 remotes but I have been able to take the codes that I learned into the usbuirt and copy and paste them into the JP1 remote just like I told a cinemar button what ir signal to send I am telling the JP1 remote buttons which signals to send. The process is ending up being fairly similar for both the gui based remotes and the tactile remotes. This is what I was hoping for.

Well, that is kind of where things are for me and what I have found to work. I hope that I have not intruded too much on this thread.

Joe

I have to admit that I have long hoped that Ruben would get into DIY home automation. This is going to save me so much time on research and testing!! :D Keep up the great work on everything Ruben!! HT came out spectatular!!

Skipp

I have to admit that I have long hoped that Ruben would get into DIY home automation. This is going to save me so much time on research and testing!! :D Keep up the great work on everything Ruben!! HT came out spectatular!!

Skipp

Thanks Skipp! Everything is coming along pretty good so far. I will update this thread shortly with my findings. So far the automated Insteon Dimmers work like a charm. They work everytime, the temporary free software I am using with it is a PITA though.

I basically spent the weekend laying out my floor plan for my whole house and outdoors to be used with the touchscreen. So basically, you click on the lighting button, your floorplan comes up and you click on the section of the house you want to control and it brings up all the switches for that part of the house.

I am only having a problem with Flash, because I don't know the application well. I am trying to make a simple 2 state button for each section of the floorplan. I can use Adobe Imageready to do it and output it as a .swf file but it doesn't work in a browser as 2 states when you click it. I have Flash MX but haven't used it for a while and can't seen to get it to do what I want it to do without making a huge project out of it.

Ruben

Hi Ruben,

As far as creating clickable rooms, the trick to that is to just create the outline of the room and save it as a movie clip rather than a button. Then use the States capabilities of MainLobby to show whether the room is selected or not by adjusting the alpha level of that room. Just like the ones that ship with MainLobby.

If you want to send me some files I can provide a sample file of what a room would look like when created in Flash.

It's basically, import PNG into Flash onto Stage, trace Bitmap in Flash, then Save As. Not too much more than that on the flash side.

Ruben,

Forgot to mention...you can customize the stock 0019 scenes that ship with MainLobby to fit your Q1 screen better. You could opt not to shrink the scenes down and develop for the true size of the Q1 which is 800x480. You'd have to manuever some of the content area around but it's completely up to the user how big they want their buttons and their placement. We just provide samples scenes to get you going and start the creative wheels a spinning.

For example, here are some scenes a dealer designed with MainLobby for his clients...completely different lighting scenes than what someone else may design.

http://housetalkltd.com/images/ScreenHunter_4.jpg

http://housetalkltd.com/images/ScreenHunter_5.jpg

The only limit is your imagination.

Hi Ruben,

As far as creating clickable rooms, the trick to that is to just create the outline of the room and save it as a movie clip rather than a button. Then use the States capabilities of MainLobby to show whether the room is selected or not by adjusting the alpha level of that room. Just like the ones that ship with MainLobby.

If you want to send me some files I can provide a sample file of what a room would look like when created in Flash.

It's basically, import PNG into Flash onto Stage, trace Bitmap in Flash, then Save As. Not too much more than that on the flash side.Say youre in a helicopter above your house and shoot an HD video of spinning down to just above your house, can you take this, make a AVI and then have it switch to a floor plan thats is rendered to look like youre actual house by a good renderer.

In other words when you bring up the floor plan your up above looking down and circle down, bust through the roof onto whatever floor you need?

Anybody speak German? http://www.sbc-shop.nl/tatung-tx2000-webpad-mobiele-thin-client-p-133.html?osCsid=ada6ecb64e84dfbf7287a05658db07af

Anybody speak German?
German, yes. Unfortunately your URL points to a site in dutch.

But what is your specific question with regards to that site.

rgds
posde

German, yes. Unfortunately your URL points to a site in dutch.

But what is your specific question with regards to that site.

rgds
posde

LOL, That is pretty funny (Don't worry Mark, I am laughing with you, not at you) :)

I think he would like it translated.

Joe

Mark,

A few to look at here.

http://www.akori.fr/eng_produits.html

Joe

Ruben and Mark,

I just purchased a 10" air panel on Ebay. Should have it in a few days. I also got the person's name at Tatung to order from. I have sent her an email and will let you know as soon as I hear anything.

Joe

Ruben and Mark,

I just purchased a 10" air panel on Ebay. Should have it in a few days. I also got the person's name at Tatung to order from. I have sent her an email and will let you know as soon as I hear anything.

Joe


Yeah, I told mark about that 10" Air Panel on eBay, but I guess he didn't go for it. Anyway, I personally think the airpanels are too slow. They are cool for browsing the internet and doing simple little things, but as far as a TouchScreen Remote with Flash graphics on it it takes forever to redraw pages everytime you change them.

I will stick with a Touchscreen with a built in HD and a dock. I do use the air panel everyday though to access my HTPC without going in the theater. It's great for installing programs and making setting changes in Main Lobby Server.

Ruben

Hi Ruben,

As far as creating clickable rooms, the trick to that is to just create the outline of the room and save it as a movie clip rather than a button. Then use the States capabilities of MainLobby to show whether the room is selected or not by adjusting the alpha level of that room. Just like the ones that ship with MainLobby.

If you want to send me some files I can provide a sample file of what a room would look like when created in Flash.

It's basically, import PNG into Flash onto Stage, trace Bitmap in Flash, then Save As. Not too much more than that on the flash side.

Thanks Mario, I emailed you the floorplans I did.

Ruben

Yeah, I told mark about that 10" Air Panel on eBay, but I guess he didn't go for it. Anyway, I personally think the airpanels are too slow. They are cool for browsing the internet and doing simple little things, but as far as a TouchScreen Remote with Flash graphics on it it takes forever to redraw pages everytime you change them.

I will stick with a Touchscreen with a built in HD and a dock. I do use the air panel everyday though to access my HTPC without going in the theater. It's great for installing programs and making setting changes in Main Lobby Server.

Ruben

It is not the fact that it has a hard drive or not that makes the graphics slow. It is the processor speed. I agree that the air panel is too slow. That is why I think the tatung is the trick. It has a much faster processor.

Mark did try to buy an airpanel on ebay. He just missed the one I got. :)


Joe

German, yes. Unfortunately your URL points to a site in dutch.

But what is your specific question with regards to that site.

rgds
posde
Dutch, German,
they all look the same too me, and I am German.

Subwoofers.

I came across this definition the other day, thought it was interesting in light of SandmanX's subwoofer situation/solution.

from: Acoustics and Psychoacoustics 3rd by David M Howard, pg 315

The cut-off region: the region below the lowest resonance, sometimes called the room cut-off region or the pressure zone frequency. In this region the room is smaller than a half wavelength in all dimensions. this does not mean that the room does not support sound propagation, in fact it behaves more like the air in a bicycle pump when the end is blocked. This means that the environment 'loads' any sources of sound in the room differently (such as loudspeakers or musical instruments), and often, but not always, the effect of this loading is to reduce the ability of the source to radiate sound into the room, and so results in reduced sound levels at these frequencies. this is because the acoustic impedance at the source is altered, making it harder for it to radiate sound. The low frequency cut-off can be calculated simply from

f = 344 / (2 * L)
where L is the longest dimension of the room in meters,
and 344 is the speed of sound in meters per second.

Or to put it another way: more power too you. :)

It is not the fact that it has a hard drive or not that makes the graphics slow. It is the processor speed. I agree that the air panel is too slow. That is why I think the tatung is the trick. It has a much faster processor.

Mark did try to buy an airpanel on ebay. He just missed the one I got. :)


Joe

Joe, what's the plan for the airpanel? Remote control (Nevo) or surfin' ?

Al

Joe, what's the plan for the airpanel? Remote control (Nevo) or surfin' ?

Al

I have a 15 inch airpanel that I use for surfing. A saw a picture of Ruben holding the 10 inch in his hand and it looked much more wieldable so I wanted to get my hands on one. I will probably use it for both remote control(cinemar) and surfing. I think my wife, she's 5 feet tall and 100 pounds, will like the smaller footprint too.

In addition to the airpanels I have 3 toshiba tablet PCs that I plan on building frames for and placing on walls around the hose.

Joe

Joe,
I snatched up a Toshiba laptop and the picture on the screen is amazing, do you like your Toshibas?

Ruben,

first of all I would like to thank you for sharing your experience with us here – this is what makes this forum such a great place.

Your HT design and construction is fantastic – very well done! I have also started with real work on my HT project a few weeks ago and I hope you don’t mind if some of my ideas are somehow influenced by your great work. :cool:

I have also a question concerning your sub – is it still placed beneath your screen? Did you experiment also with other locations?
The reason I ask is because I am going to build a sub myself which is pretty similar to your DTS-20. It is a dual transmission line with a 15” and a 14” driver – producing 114 dB at 20Hz, capable of reproducing 17-80 Hz.
I am going to place this monster on the rear end of the room behind the last row of seats and since my room dimensions are a bit smaller than yours I would like to get feedback about your bass set-up.

Thanks and keep up the excellent work!

Joe,
I snatched up a Toshiba laptop and the picture on the screen is amazing, do you like your Toshibas?

I bought some older ones with touch-screen. The touch screen is not as sensitive as the airpanels so you have to press much harder. I might be selling them soon on ebay. When I have time to play with them some more I will make a final decision.

Joe

Ruben,
I went ahead and bought one Klipsch KL-650-THX speaker to try out before I bought the entire set. I love the sound and am planning on selling my Sonus Faber surround system and replacing it with the Klipsch. I have one question, the one speaker I got on the serial number sticker on the back of the speaker it says model number KL-650-THX (L). I am being told by a dealer that there is a KL-650-THX (R) but no KL-650-THX (C) that the center uses a second KL-650-THX (L). Could you check the model numbers on the back of your speakers and confirm this for me?

Thanks,
Daniel

I received my Airpanel 110 that I bought off Ebay. IT is so cute and tiny compared to the 15" model that I already had.

I really like it. I carry it all over the place and run all of my computers off just a litle 10" portable screen.

I think I might sell my Toshiba's and use these on the walls. I might take it apart and built it into a nice wood frame that I would mount on the wall. I agree with Mark, they are a little 60s scifi looking.

Joe

Well it has only taken me 2 months to read through all of this but simply awesome I can not wait to get my new house and start my theater.

Nate

Hey Ruben,

You still around? I'll call you tonite.

Joe

Justanupdate,
We started framing out the new screenwall to accomodate the new curved SmX screen. My previous screenwall was straight with a 10 foot wide opening. The new screenwall is curved with a 12 foot wide opening.

Here is a quick picture of the framing almost done. I also have a live video feed of the theater being worked on but I an not figure out how to stream it over the internet. I do have an IP camera and access it via the web to see the video feed but it requires my personal password to see it.If anyone know show to stream webvideo let me know.


http://www.smxscreen.com/images/IMG_5582.jpg

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/IMG_5583.jpg

Ruben,
I went ahead and bought one Klipsch KL-650-THX speaker to try out before I bought the entire set. I love the sound and am planning on selling my Sonus Faber surround system and replacing it with the Klipsch. I have one question, the one speaker I got on the serial number sticker on the back of the speaker it says model number KL-650-THX (L). I am being told by a dealer that there is a KL-650-THX (R) but no KL-650-THX (C) that the center uses a second KL-650-THX (L). Could you check the model numbers on the back of your speakers and confirm this for me?

Thanks,
Daniel


Hi,

My speakers are labeled L, C & R. Even though the L & C are the same to my eyes, they were all individually identified.

Ruben

Hey Ruben,

New frame for screen is looking really good.

How did you make those curved bottom and top plates? Did you take something like a 2x12 and cut it down to 2x4 in the shape of a curve?

Frank

The Klipsch THX U2 line doesn't have a specific center speaker. Either an additional left or right is used.

Ruben,
Did you consider placing your left and right main speakers out nearer the edge of your screen so that sfx pans got all the way across your screen? Seems like they will come up short/inside the corresponding visual as you have them now.

Ruben,
Did you consider placing your left and right main speakers out nearer the edge of your screen so that sfx pans got all the way across your screen? Seems like they will come up short/inside the corresponding visual as you have them now.

Yeah, now since I rebuilt my screenwall and spoke to BPape, I am going to spread them wider apart.

Also, I want to mention that ever since mentioned Fidelio Velvet on the forums, and need some now, everyone is sold out and backordered. I need some to finish some trim and may need to directly order a full bolt to get some. When I asked the few people that sell it why they are sold out, they said they don't know, it recently just started selling like crazy.

Ruben

I'll take some of that bolt :)

Joe

I'd be interested in some of that bolt also.

I will take some

What is the cost of Fidelio Velvet? I may be interested aswell...

LOL! That's amazing! JoAnn's should give you a discount on the bolt since I'm sure the forum was what started the sellout. In fact, come to think of it you're the reason I bought it myself :) I was reading up on what to do for my frame and saw a few threads on flat paint vs. velvet and saw a comparison on projectorcentral and then several threads referenced your photo of the different fabric comparisons and I was sold as soon as I saw how black that stuff is! It was like getting a mini black hole shipped to my house when I opened the package (someone on the forum sold me what they had left over).

Imagine you'd have an easy time offloading the rest of your bolt.

Mike

Sign me up for some of the velvet as well

Geez, now what the heck did I start. Are we doing to see SmX velvet now? :)

Joe

We have Black velvet in abundance out here, the whole Fidelio is blacker than other black velvets is poo-poo from my comparison. Black Velvet is black velvet but then again I dont go to Jo-Anns. I use Upolsterer shops, Drapery places or any fabric store but Jo-Anns and their meek assortment

Also, I want to mention that ever since mentioned Fidelio Velvet on the forums, and need some now, everyone is sold out and backordered. I need some to finish some trim and may need to directly order a full bolt to get some. When I asked the few people that sell it why they are sold out, they said they don't know, it recently just started selling like crazy.
I'm part of that problem.
I ordered a few yards of the stuff back in early September. It was back ordered then, with an estimated shipping date of October 10th. Hey, that's today. Maybe it'll arrive next week.

I'm part of that problem.
I ordered a few yards of the stuff back in early September. It was back ordered then, with an estimated shipping date of October 10th. Hey, that's today. Maybe it'll arrive next week.
JoAnns is suppose to receive it at the end of October and will be available in the stores 1st week in November. Use a 40% coupon and you can really save some $$ on a bolt of that stuff :D

swithey:
Is there an on-line link to JoAnn's for Fidelio Velvet ? I tried a search at http://www.joann.com but didn't get anything.

When I went a Joann's store in New Hampshire the store the manager said she had received many calls for it, so she called the ordering department to a get an accurate answer. Who ever she talk to told her that Joann's would get one final order in late October of 50 yards (not sure if that was for the northeast region or the country, but it was not for an individual store). Once this was sold they were going to switch to imported velvet at a reduced cost.

I needed 7 yards for a shadow box and she seemed to think only the larger Joann's would receive that much, so I ordered online.

"I ordered a few yards of the stuff back in early September. It was back ordered then, with an estimated shipping date of October 10th. Hey, that's today. Maybe it'll arrive next week. "

Sounds like we ordered from the same place and I just received noticed that it shipped today via priority mail and I should have it by the weekend!

swithey:
Is there an on-line link to JoAnn's for Fidelio Velvet ? I tried a search at http://www.joann.com but didn't get anything.
They do not show it online but you can call the online store and order it I think -- PN#1880251. You can also go into the store and special order it there as well.

Hey Ruben I need some of that velvet too. The woman saw your screen and said we need to have a curved screen too.

Nate

Hey Folks,

I ordered some Blue LED rope light off eBay and just wanted to let you know its like 1 million times brighter (slight exaggeration) and bluer than the blue rope light I got from Loews.

So if your looking for rope light, I would consider LED before anyting else. I have my LED rope light plugged into a dimmable outlet in my soffit. It dims very nicely and doesn't color shift when it dims like the Loews rope light does.

Also, as some of you may know, I installed my Fiberoptic Star Ceiling light boxes inside my columns. Well those things were really loud and hot before I did my first modifications to them. So what we recently did was remove the fans from inside them and swapped the 50 watt MR-16 halogen bulb for a 21 LED MR-16 Style bulb.

Now the boxes are completely silent and run cool and the stars look much, much, much better. The stars now have that real authentic slightly blue color to them opposed to having the yellowish halogen color.

Ruben

Hey Folks,

I ordered some Blue LED rope light off eBay and just wanted to let you know its like 1 million times brighter (slight exaggeration) and bluer than the blue rope light I got from Loews.

So if your looking for rope light, I would consider LED before anyting else. I have my LED rope light plugged into a dimmable outlet in my soffit. It dims very nicely and doesn't color shift when it dims like the Loews rope light does.

Also, as some of you may know, I installed my Fiberoptic Star Ceiling light boxes inside my columns. Well those things were really loud and hot before I did my first modifications to them. So what we recently did was remove the fans from inside them and swapped the 50 watt MR-16 halogen bulb for a 21 LED MR-16 Style bulb.

Now the boxes are completely silent and run cool and the stars look much, much, much better. The stars now have that real authentic slightly blue color to them opposed to having the yellowish halogen color.

Ruben

Ruben,

Are these both low voltage? If so, did you connect them to the grafik eye? Did you have to buy a low voltage adapter for the grafik eye? Where di dyou buy the MR-16?

Joe

Ruben: I'm glad you mentioned the LED replacement bulbs. The noise and heat of a halogen or metal halide lamp is completely unnecessary when super-bright and ultra-bright white LEDs are in such widespread use these days. Do your boxes also have a twinkle wheel and if so, how loud is that motor?

Ruben,

Are these both low voltage? If so, did you connect them to the grafik eye? Did you have to buy a low voltage adapter for the grafik eye? Where di dyou buy the MR-16?

Joe

The LED Rope light is line voltage (120v).
The fiber optic light boxes are line voltage as well with transformers inside them.

Ruben

Thanks, I ordered a super white one. How did you plug it in? did you buy a receptacle from somewhere?

Joe

Ruben: I'm glad you mentioned the LED replacement bulbs. The noise and heat of a halogen or metal halide lamp is completely unnecessary when super-bright and ultra-bright white LEDs are in such widespread use these days. Do your boxes also have a twinkle wheel and if so, how loud is that motor?

The twinkle wheel motor is very minimal in noise.
The noise of it does not travel any further than the columns.

Ruben

Thanks, I ordered a super white one. How did you plug it in? did you buy a receptacle from somewhere?

Joe

It plugs right in the existing socket just like changing a regular MR-16 low voltage bulb.

Ruben

Hey Folks,

I ordered some Blue LED rope light off eBay and just wanted to let you know its like 1 million times brighter (slight exaggeration) and bluer than the blue rope light I got from Loews.

So if your looking for rope light, I would consider LED before anyting else. I have my LED rope light plugged into a dimmable outlet in my soffit. It dims very nicely and doesn't color shift when it dims like the Loews rope light does.

Also, as some of you may know, I installed my Fiberoptic Star Ceiling light boxes inside my columns. Well those things were really loud and hot before I did my first modifications to them. So what we recently did was remove the fans from inside them and swapped the 50 watt MR-16 halogen bulb for a 21 LED MR-16 Style bulb.

Now the boxes are completely silent and run cool and the stars look much, much, much better. The stars now have that real authentic slightly blue color to them opposed to having the yellowish halogen color.

Ruben



Hi Ruben - are those light boxes dimmable? Just wondering as I would like to build a DIY light source based on these led lights and have been mulling over how to dim them....

Lewis

Hi Ruben - are those light boxes dimmable? Just wondering as I would like to build a DIY light source based on these led lights and have been mulling over how to dim them....

Lewis

Yes, as long as you don't have fans in them.

Ruben

Yes, as long as you don't have fans in them.

Ruben

When you dim it, how does it affect the spinning light wheel?

Joe

When you dim it, how does it affect the spinning light wheel?

Joe

Yes, right now the spinning wheel is on the same line and it slows down as the light dims. I will be putting another transformer in there to have 2 power sources for each box (one for the spinning wheel and the other for the light).

Ruben

Yes, right now the spinning wheel is on the same line and it slows down as the light dims. I will be putting another transformer in there to have 2 power sources for each box (one for the spinning wheel and the other for the light).

Ruben
Ruben,

I was thinking about doing the same mod. Please let me know the specs of the transformer you used so I can do the same on mine.

On the twinkle speed, how fast is optimal? I was thinking about hooking up a cheap dimmer to control that independently of the light brightness.

Ruben,

I was thinking about doing the same mod. Please let me know the specs of the transformer you used so I can do the same on mine.

On the twinkle speed, how fast is optimal? I was thinking about hooking up a cheap dimmer to control that independently of the light brightness.

With the LED MR-16 bulbs you wont really need to dim them. They are not an eye sore like the halogens were. I will snap a picture later of the difference between the two types of bulbs running trough the fibers since I have 2 light boxes and each box does 6 panels.

On the twinkle speed, slower is more realistic, fast spinning looks like a disco. Also you can control the randomness of the twinkle be positioning the fibers at different distances from the spinning wheel. So the closer the fibers are to the wheel, the more obvious the twinkle vs further away less obvious.

Ruben

With the LED MR-16 bulbs you wont really need to dim them. They are not an eye sore like the halogens were. I will snap a picture later of the difference between the two types of bulbs running trough the fibers since I have 2 light boxes and each box does 6 panels.

On the twinkle speed, slower is more realistic, fast spinning looks like a disco. Also you can control the randomness of the twinkle be positioning the fibers at different distances from the spinning wheel. So the closer the fibers are to the wheel, the more obvious the twinkle vs further away less obvious.

Ruben


I just want to let everyone know that those LED bulbs all burnt out. I don't know what happened, but they no longer work. They worked for about 15 minutes straight then died out. So back to the drawing board on that one.

Ruben

I just want to let everyone know that those LED bulbs all burnt out. I don't know what happened, but they no longer work. They worked for about 15 minutes straight then died out. So back to the drawing board on that one.

Ruben

I bought one too. The sellers web site looks as if they would provide good support. You should give it a try.

Joe

http://www.convergentech.com/detail.aspx?ID=188
http://www.dtresearch.com/prod_webDT366.html

10.4 viewsonic altenative, I think I found the Tatungs as well

http://www.convergentech.com/detail.aspx?ID=188
http://www.dtresearch.com/prod_webDT366.html

10.4 viewsonic altenative, I think I found the Tatungs as well

I still like the tx-2000 best.

Joe

RadioRA was always rock solid, never had any issue at all. Insteon is pretty solid. As I said, definitely solid enough for normal use. Here are the "issues" I've had:

1) When you press a button on a RadioRA keypad everything tied to it responds instantly. Press "All off" and the whole house turns off right then. When you do the same with an Insteon keypad things respond, but slower. Depending on how many devices you have linked it can take anywhere from a couple to 15 or 20 seconds for everything to respond.

I wanted to comment on this. I have about 60 Insteon light switches installed and they all turn on or shut off simultaneously on the dime everytime with no delay. So otherwords, I have one button for all lights on and one for all lights off and they are on point. So far I have not had ant issues with them.

Ruben

I must say that even with 120 Insteon Dimmers, switches, lamp dimmers, relays most everything works and nothing takes more than two seconds to operate but I do have switches that lose link after a couple days, If a switch is too close to the RF transmitters it seems the switch is overpowered by the transmitter somehow and takes more time for the PLC to find it when loading it for the first time. The 1000 Watt dimmers hum and you can hear them from 6' away. The Blue LED pipes are a must if you have 3-5 bay gangs or in all honesty they are needed everywhere if you dont want to be distracted by bright white LEDs shining at you. The blue really gives it that 2007 look that really looks cool compared to the old Lutron green LED thats so 1990 or maybe Hasbro or Mattel look.

The Insteons get hotter than heck for my comfort range but so far so good with almost 2 weeks of solid performance and last night got the " party" atmosphere workout for 12 hours which was everything instant on with individual ramp rates and then changing to different scenes via preset timers as the night wore on. I found that dimming them does cool them down considerably which suprised me, the old Lutrons had a habit of howling in very low dim mode, these dont, except the 1000 watt models but I have 800 plus watts on these and its not a loud hum but very faint.

If these still work this good 10 years from now they will get a two thumbs up at 1/2 the price of Lutron

I wanted to comment on this. I have about 60 Insteon light switches installed and they all turn on or shut off simultaneously on the dime everytime with no delay. So otherwords, I have one button for all lights on and one for all lights off and they are on point. So far I have not had ant issues with them.

Ruben

I have some that seem to work instantly like that and others that don't. I think there are probably a couple of reasons. One, I had a devil of a time getting all my switches to "see" each other. I had to place those RF repeaters all over the place before I found spots that seemed to work consistently. This may or may not have to do with the fact that I have two electrical panels or the fact that my house is spread out across three floors. Two, I use the software for quite a few things (events and timers). This is cool functionality, but that is where the delays usually come from. My "away" event that shuts down most lights except for a few takes about 20 seconds to run completely as does my midnight, "shut down all the lights" timer. I also have had some times where one light just doesn't shut down when its supposed to - these are pretty rare, however.

In short, Insteon is worth it for 1/2 the price of RadioRA. I'm glad I went with it.

Hey Ruben,

I know that folks really liked your screen material but I had not realized how large you have branched out. Got your own fleet of trucks now huh? :D

Joe

http://www.createasong.com/theaterpics/smx1.jpg

I have some that seem to work instantly like that and others that don't. I think there are probably a couple of reasons. One, I had a devil of a time getting all my switches to "see" each other. I had to place those RF repeaters all over the place before I found spots that seemed to work consistently. This may or may not have to do with the fact that I have two electrical panels or the fact that my house is spread out across three floors. Two, I use the software for quite a few things (events and timers). This is cool functionality, but that is where the delays usually come from. My "away" event that shuts down most lights except for a few takes about 20 seconds to run completely as does my midnight, "shut down all the lights" timer. I also have had some times where one light just doesn't shut down when its supposed to - these are pretty rare, however.

In short, Insteon is worth it for 1/2 the price of RadioRA. I'm glad I went with it.

ebr,

Having dead or missing links in your switches/plc can cause slow downs when controlled from 3rd party software. You may see if you can remove the dead links and see if that improves performance.

Hey Ruben,

I know that folks really liked your screen material but I had not realized how large you have branched out. Got your own fleet of trucks now huh? :D

Joe

http://www.createasong.com/theaterpics/smx1.jpg


Yeah, I had to start off small with 5 trailers, but after about 6 months in full production we should have about 50 trailers.

I just want to let everyone know that those LED bulbs all burnt out. I don't know what happened, but they no longer work. They worked for about 15 minutes straight then died out. So back to the drawing board on that one.

Ruben

I've be willing to bet the transformer in your lightbox is outputting too much voltage. 12 volt LED bulbs need a transformer that is both tightly regulated (anything over 13 volts is the kiss of death) and must not pass more than the rated wattage of the bulbs being driven or they will do just that...poof. If you did a plug and play thing, you likely plugged the bulbs into an unregulated transformer outputting WAY too much wattage at too high a voltage. It was likely designed to drive the regular MR-16's and probably the fans too. The Bulbs likely burned Nova bright for an LED bulb and then went poof. :(

Also, another thing to note...on most 120v LED rope lights, they will dim, but you may pretty seriously cut the life span of the light down (forget the 100,000 hour thing). You have to use electronic dimming drivers (usually PWM) to do it properly...not reducing the voltage or wattage, but instead turning them on and off VERY quickly (the more "off" time, the dimmer they are). The good thing is that when you properly dim them, they will last even longer.

One last thing...there is a myth that LED lights run totally cool. That is false. Individually, LED lights don't generate much heat, but together they can generate a good amount and you have to take it into account. The newer high wattage 3 and 6 watt LED modules run hot and ultra bright (the 6 watt you can't even look at). You may be tempted to run one of the 1 watt Luxeon MR-16's in your light box (particularly if the properly voltage regulated 22 LED bulb is too dim), but you should put a super quiet computer fan in there run off it's own power supply.

LED's are worth the effort since they offer a far more pure light, have zero electronic noise, and are WAY more efficient and last far longer than regular lighting. But they are a different beast from any other kind of lighting.

. . . <snip> . . . and are WAY more efficient and last far longer than regular lighting. . . <snip> . . .

Nah! Production LEDs output between about 10 and 60 lumens per Watt (for example, see http://www.superbrightleds.com/edison.html for a list of bulbs that range from 10 .. 30 lumens/W). That puts them between halogen (at about 10 lumens/Watt) and compact fluorescents (at around 60 lumens/Watt). In other words, they'll also produce just as much heat per Watt as a halogen (on the low end) or CFL bulb (on the high end).

-Rob-

Reuben, how are your fiberoptic light boxes wired? i bought the same ones you used and am attempting to wire them using lutron's spacer system sps-600 dimmer, not so much to dim them but to turn them on and off by remote,that works but the light box hums when turned off and the spinner wheel doesn't work when turned on. so did you modify the internal switch or what did you do? BTW awesome theater :cool:

He is going to use two power sources/transformers (as he mentioned 15 posts ago (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8658838&&#post8658838)).

Nah! Production LEDs output between about 10 and 60 lumens per Watt (for example, see http://www.superbrightleds.com/edison.html for a list of bulbs that range from 10 .. 30 lumens/W). That puts them between halogen (at about 10 lumens/Watt) and compact fluorescents (at around 60 lumens/Watt). In other words, they'll also produce just as much heat per Watt as a halogen (on the low end) or CFL bulb (on the high end).

-Rob-

Actually, some of the newest LED modules are getting as high as 131 lumens per watt (and they keep pushing that up seemingly every few months). But yes, they do generate some serious heat per watt...though not as much as a big Halogen. No way to get bright light without either a really big LED array, or a small, but hot running bulb. LED's will re-write the book on fixture design since all fixtures today are pretty much designed around the ubiquitous ultra inefficient Edison bulb that only has one real advantage...it is small and bright. No reason that form factor has to continue with LED arrays allowing for all sorts of cool designs.

Oh...and CF is a BAD idea in a theater...way too much radiated noise from most of them. I actually have a bunch of CF PAR30's in one room in my home and had a pair of big Klipsch's stored in there...the speakers would hiss when the lights were turned on... and they weren't even hooked up to an amp! Once LED's get to the point where they are reasonably affordable and have the light output, it will be bye bye Edison and CF bulbs IMHO.

CF? What is this an abreviation for?

What about Xenon? I just picked up a six pack of under counter xenon lights at Lowe's for $29. That included a dimmer. The lights are rated at 20W each. Apparently the halogens they replaced were getting too hot and a potential fire hazard. I was amazed at the price.

Craig

CF = Compact Flourescent

A couple people here on AVS took my plans to contracters to build an identical room like mine. They were quoted between $85k - $120k for just labor and building materials (equipment and chairs not included). I told them that was allot of money.

Ruben


Ruben if I wanted to build a theater like yours using your plans and could do most of the construction like you did how much would I have to spend?


BTW aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaamazing theater man!!!!!

Justanupdate,
We started framing out the new screenwall to accomodate the new curved SmX screen. My previous screenwall was straight with a 10 foot wide opening. The new screenwall is curved with a 12 foot wide opening.

Here is a quick picture of the framing almost done. I also have a live video feed of the theater being worked on but I an not figure out how to stream it over the internet. I do have an IP camera and access it via the web to see the video feed but it requires my personal password to see it.If anyone know show to stream webvideo let me know.


http://www.smxscreen.com/images/IMG_5582.jpg

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/IMG_5583.jpg

damn dude it must be nice to have money up the ying yang

Ruben if I wanted to build a theater like yours using your plans and could do most of the construction like you did how much would I have to spend?


BTW aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaamazing theater man!!!!!

I posted a detailed breakdown of costs to build this room a few pages back in this thread.

Thanks!!!!!

Ruben

damn dude it must be nice to have money up the ying yang

To be honest, this room came out costing allot less than most rooms done by pro contracters on this board because I did it myself and some friends helped me out occasionally. I never went to school for this profession, I just watched allot of DIY TV and read AVS for a while.

Thanks
Ruben

To be honest, this room came out costing allot less than most rooms done by pro contracters on this board because I did it myself and some friends helped me out occasionally. I never went to school for this profession, I just watched allot of DIY TV and read AVS for a while.

Thanks
Ruben


what ever your doing keep on doing it that room looks frikin awesome.. You and your crew are very talented. You guys should be doing this full time.. You have the best looking ht I have ever seen. The stars on the ceiling look amazing

Any chance you can fly me out so I can watch a movie on that thing

Then there is the fact that Ruben came up with SMX during this whole adventure, has sold a ton of it, and now will have a screen company and Make more money up the ying yang. Now that is the way to do things.

I posted a detailed breakdown of costs to build this room a few pages back in this thread.

Thanks!!!!!

Ruben

Can someone please post a link or post number for this. I did a search and manually went back, read several pages, and couldn't find it.

Thanks in advance...

Post #1499, Red.

To be honest, this room came out costing allot less than most rooms done by pro contracters on this board because I did it myself and some friends helped me out occasionally. I never went to school for this profession, I just watched allot of DIY TV and read AVS for a while.

Thanks
Ruben

However you did it I just have to commend you on it. Now that you are approaching half a million posts though , I think it's time to start your own forum. :D An index etc would come in handy. ;)

Art

However you did it I just have to commend you on it. Now that you are approaching half a million posts though , I think it's time to start your own forum. :D An index etc would come in handy. ;)

Art

Surely you know that Ruben has his own forum the SMX forum.

However you did it I just have to commend you on it. Now that you are approaching half a million posts though , I think it's time to start your own forum. :D An index etc would come in handy. ;)

Art
Art, I believe SandmanX did just that... http://www.smxscreen.com/

You will need to register but he has the theater build chronicled there as well.

Surely you know that Ruben has his own forum the SMX forum.

No I didn't ,and don't cal me surely. :D



Art, I believe SandmanX did just that... http://www.smxscreen.com/

You will need to register but he has the theater build chronicled there as well.

Thanks !

Art

Thanks for the post #, Dan. For those of you that are math challenged it's on page 50. (just kidding, guy and gals) :D

Great information there...thanks for sharing Ruben! :)

A little update,

Today I got my Tabletkiosk eo UMPC i7209 (http://www.tabletkiosk.com/tkstore/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=35&idproduct=153) to use with my automated home and theater. I have the Samsumg Q1 as well, but I like the fact that the eo has a charging dock station and a built in camera.

Here are some flix showing the Q1 and the eo...

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/Tablets/IMG_5626.jpg

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/Tablets/IMG_5627.jpg

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/Tablets/IMG_5633.jpg

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/Tablets/IMG_5634.jpg

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/Tablets/IMG_5638.jpg

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/Tablets/IMG_5642.jpg

I've been looking at both of these for some time now. Interested in hearing about the pros/cons of each unit. How does the battery usage compare?

Cons of the EO.
Loud, wireless fairly weak as compared to normal laptop, hard to work on and very slow when used to working on 4ghz processors, cannot come out of hibernate by touching screen (havent played very hard to see if possible), Seriosly need usb mouse and keyboard if plan on getting things done fast, used it by remote desktop but this seems to slow it down even slower so all programing needs to be done elsewhere and loaded. Bright labels that arent stickers, hopefully Ruben attempts removal before I do with sucess so I can copy. More to come but I only played with it for a couple hours last week.

Pros of EO.
Nice looking, small but large enough, camera, nice graphics, responsive, stable beyond comphrehension, nice dock ( bad powercord, bulky), blends well with a theater setting, doesnt have a toyish PSP look, voice activated and works suprisingly well. handles rich graphics fairly well.

Cons of the EO.
Loud, wireless fairly weak as compared to normal laptop, hard to work on and very slow when used to working on 4ghz processors, cannot come out of hibernate by touching screen (havent played very hard to see if possible), Seriosly need usb mouse and keyboard if plan on getting things done fast, used it by remote desktop but this seems to slow it down even slower so all programing needs to be done elsewhere and loaded. Bright labels that arent stickers, hopefully Ruben attempts removal before I do with sucess so I can copy. More to come but I only played with it for a couple hours last week.

Pros of EO.
Nice looking, small but large enough, camera, nice graphics, responsive, stable beyond comphrehension, nice dock ( bad powercord, bulky), blends well with a theater setting, doesnt have a toyish PSP look, voice activated and works suprisingly well. handles rich graphics fairly well.

What do you mean by "voice activated"?

Joe

Voice recognition, the more you keep at it the better it gets. You read little paragraphs that soon turn to novels and it learn your speech patterns. Anywhere you can type, you speak. Im guessing it can be setup for Play, stop, pause digging deeper.

voice activated is not a good idea for this job. I have yet to see an implementation that was less trouble then using a TS.

draw backs:

either too sensitive or not enough: will it understand you, wife, kids, babysitter…. While avoiding the actors

inadvertent commands: saying “stop it” to someone and then the movie stops

exactitude: you miss something (or worst FF) and you want to rewind you say “rewind” (or whatever it is) then when you see what you want and give the play command so it over rewound (or FF too much)

command knowledge: was it freeze or pause….

If it does work, My stuff is going to be set up to Hibernate in like 1 minute so I can hit the top power when and if I want control, the voice recognition is the best ever on these EOs

Cons of the EO.
Loud, wireless fairly weak as compared to normal laptop, hard to work on and very slow when used to working on 4ghz processors, cannot come out of hibernate by touching screen (havent played very hard to see if possible),
Pros of EO.
Nice looking, small but large enough, camera, nice graphics, responsive, stable beyond comphrehension, nice dock ( bad powercord, bulky), blends well with a theater setting, doesnt have a toyish PSP look, voice activated and works suprisingly well. handles rich graphics fairly well.

The EO isn't loud at all for me, in fact I can put my ear up to it and still can't hear it running. The Samsung Q1 is louder.

Wireless works just as good as everything else in my house.

Speed, well it's a tablet so it doesn't have Dual, Dual Core AMDs in it.
It does the job, it turns lights on and off and works the same as the Samsung Q1. They are both better than an Air Panel as far as video redrawing speed. I am still waiting on a good 10.4" tablet with a dock to come out.

Ruben

Since yours isnt loud maybe the fan is broke and thats why the screen is moving around. I can clearly hear the thing 4' away. It would be in hibernate during a movie without a doubt.

All my laptops are dead silent, this thing trys to move alot of air out of those tiny holes. Might also be because I have it turned up bright and have it on its dock on a hardwood desk in a alcove and is amplified.

I would hope the wireless is good with 4 access points, I can go almost a block away with all other wireless components, this thing chokes 50' away and the routers in the attic. It will work great in the theater 30' from the router through 1 wall. It doesnt work in the den with a coffered ceiling. I might have to get some more routers and put them in every room, so far 1 has done the trick

I am still waiting on a good 10.4" tablet with a dock to come out.

RubenMarch according to Joe at tabletKiosk, I may go for the 12" but a 10" er does sound appealing

You're right, it can be quiet, I just turned it on and you cant hear anything the first minute or so. Open Mainlobby or go on the internet and tell me that thing doesnt purr. Then it wont stop until standby. Either way this is your baby to play with, get all my Main lobby stuff done and upload it by tomorrow please? I gave the thing a complement and now its back to sitting here howling in my ear, I guess howling isnt a fair description but it has a unique sound I am aware of at all times while on.

You're right, it can be quiet, I just turned it on and you cant hear anything the first minute or so. Open Mainlobby or go on the internet and tell me that thing doesnt purr. Then it wont stop until standby. Either way this is your baby to play with, get all my Main lobby stuff done and upload it by tomorrow please? I gave the thing a complement and now its back to sitting here howling in my ear, I guess howling isnt a fair description but it has a unique sound I am aware of at all times while on.

That's cause the hard drive needs cooling. Use the power options and try setting the hard drive to turn off after 1 minute. The fan will probably turn off soon after that.

Now, don't forget. If you run a program or anything that uses the hard drive again the fan will probably turn on again.

What we really need is something like the EO that has no hard drive and uses flash memory. No fan neeed then.

Joe

Ruben,

Your theater is amazingly cool! Definite cool factor going on there. You've got style.

I was wondering if you still had that Outlaw Audio 990 in your audio chain and if so what are your impressions of it? I'm planning on getting one and will connect it with a digital coax SPDIF cable to my HTPC. Is that the way you have it set up?

thanks,
Craigo

That's cause the hard drive needs cooling. Use the power options and try setting the hard drive to turn off after 1 minute. The fan will probably turn off soon after that.

Now, don't forget. If you run a program or anything that uses the hard drive again the fan will probably turn on again.

What we really need is something like the EO that has no hard drive and uses flash memory. No fan neeed then.

JoeCertainly some serious setup can probably perfect it. I think I need the HD to deal with graphics Im dealing with plus it makes a nice guest room touch pad for when friends and family visit, they have their own personal PC in their room.

By the way, ROTFLMAO at your Email about post #93 in Automation, Have faith Joe, Im only 5693 days from being a automation power user

What's a practical use of a camera on the tablet? Seems like it'd be about as good of quality as a cell phone's camera, but less useful since you're probably at home with it, where your camera is.

Joe, I think it'd be possible to use a flash card with an IDE->CF/SM adapter inside the tablet if you crack it open. Then there'd be no HDD, but obviously disk space would be at a premium.

Video conferencing from anywhere you want using AIM or WM? Im not into that much but it is sort of neat, Ruben has showed this to me and it is cool for instructional purposes where the phone just doesnt cut it.

Ah, as a webcam.. That makes sense. I was just thinking still pictures. Very cool.

Well after 500 hours on my Optoma H-79, the bulb has darken to the point I don't want to watch movies in my theater anymore.

It got that dark. So it looks like it's time for a new projector.

Ruben

Well after 500 hours on my Optoma H-79, the bulb has darken to the point I don't want to watch movies in my theater anymore.

It got that dark. So it looks like it's time for a new projector.

Ruben

LOL, that sure is a lame excuse for a new HD81!! ;)

Do they use the same bulb?

Do they use the same bulb?

no

That's the plan for my Optoma as well. It's about 300 hours and I've had to recalibrate it once because it got darker. Not too bad now (it helps with the black wall and columns to bring the contrast up so hopefully it'll last a bit longer than if I hadn't finished the room).

For now I'm thinking the Panny 900 but if the Optoma lasts a bit longer 1080 might come down in price and I might spring for that :)

What are you thinking for your next projector?

Mike

What are you thinking for your next projector?

Mike

Well I was in Home Depot today and saw this really cool Epson Projector with a built in DVD player and built in speakers for $999.99 I was thinking about that. :D

Not sure yet, the Optoma HD-81 sounded great but the offset may be an issue. The new BenQ and Sharp are suppose to be top notch as well so I am sitting around waiting to see feedback. I may have to grab another bulb for the meantime.

Ruben

Hey guys,

I just came across a crazy unheard of deal on 3 D-Box Odyssee XL Motion platforms. These are the top of the line big ones that can move 2600lb platforms up to 1.5" at 2gs of force. Problem is, I need to buy all 3 systems to get this incredible price on them and I only need one system for myself.

If anyone here is interested in jumping on this, I posted all the details about them here in the AVS Marketplace CLICK HERE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=746425)

Thanks
Ruben

Sandman, Provantage.com usually has a competive price on H79 bulbs, My first lasted 600 hours, my second is going strong at 400 but I've got a spare in my drawer just in case.

Sandman, Provantage.com usually has a competive price on H79 bulbs, My first lasted 600 hours, my second is going strong at 400 but I've got a spare in my drawer just in case.


Thanks for the tip. I use Provantage all the time and didn't even think they sold bulbs for this PJ there.

I was told to call Optoma and they should give me a free bulb since it's only been 500 hours on it. They are rated at 3000 hours so I was hoping for at least 1000 :rolleyes:

Ruben

Thought you knew of this problem:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=657386&highlight=79+bulb

Over 60 % of those surveyed had dimming in less than 1000 hours on our toy.

The good news is that even with a 500 hour life on the bulb we are only looking at 70 cents an hour for this insane hobby.

Also from personal experience when you put a new bulb in, you will fall in love with your projector all over again. I wouldn't wait. When it starts going dim replace it right away and keep the used ones for a real emergency.

Well after 500 hours on my Optoma H-79, the bulb has darken to the point I don't want to watch movies in my theater anymore.

It got that dark. So it looks like it's time for a new projector.

Ruben
Ruben -- when your car runs out of gas, do you just sell it and get another? :eek: ;) :D

Seriously -- I'd buy the bulb and wait a year for the "higher end" 1080 projs to drop in price a bit.

Well I was in Home Depot today and saw this really cool Epson Projector with a built in DVD player and built in speakers for $999.99 I was thinking about that. :D

LOL! You made my stomach sink! I was about to hurl on my screen and my mind was screaming, "NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!"

Mike

Sandman, Provantage.com usually has a competive price on H79 bulbs, My first lasted 600 hours, my second is going strong at 400 but I've got a spare in my drawer just in case.


I ordered my bulb last night at 7pm EST from Provantage and the Bulb was at my door the next day. Those guys are good! I paid for overnight shipping but they had a note on their site that orders after 3pm EST may not ship until the following day, but they still got it out at 7pm.

Ruben

SandmanX
Well I was in Home Depot today and saw this really cool Epson Projector with a built in DVD player and built in speakers for $999.99 I was thinking about that.Might make a good bathroom system. In case you can't convince the superbowl friends to pause the DVR. With enough beer, when you gotta go, you gotta go. You could store medicine and shaving equipment behind the piano hinged acoustically transparent screen.

SandmanX
Might make a good bathroom system. In case you can't convince the superbowl friends to pause the DVR. With enough beer, when you gotta go, you gotta go. You could store medicine and shaving equipment behind the piano hinged acoustically transparent screen.

LOL, Bob, you are not that far off. :)

With the AV distribution I put in the house I can watch what is being played in the theater on any TV in the house. Including the bathroom!!

Joe

Hey this is the Sandman's house. he'll have two flat panels in the Bathroom. One for standers and one for sitters. Also the porcelain throne will have a buttkicker.

The hottest thing this Christmas, hotter than PS3 ;)

40 Yards baby :D

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/IMG_6021.jpg

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/IMG_6023.jpg

The problem with the PS3 is Gears of War, CoD3, HD DVD drive, HD Movies and TV downloadable on the 22nd and the PS3 has...............Ridge Racer and a $600 price tag. I guess it has Blue Ray as well, Im hearing not to good of things about BlueRay so far.

The hottest thing this Christmas, hotter than PS3 ;)

40 Yards baby :D



So are you selling any?

Joe

Yeah, what Joe asked!! :D

Yeah, what Joe asked!! :D

I'm using this batch to finish up some things. If I have any left over I will let you guys know.

Ruben

The problem with the PS3 is Gears of War, CoD3, HD DVD drive, HD Movies and TV downloadable on the 22nd and the PS3 has...............Ridge Racer and a $600 price tag. I guess it has Blue Ray as well, Im hearing not to good of things about BlueRay so far.

Yeah I heard they were big pieces of crap. However, a ToysRus PS3 presale receipt just sold for $9,100.00 yesterday on ebay. You know I will be standing in line for one :D

Ruben

40 Yards baby :D

...

I'm using this batch to finish up some things. If I have any left over I will let you guys know.

Ruben


Uhhh....doing the enitre bedroom in black velvet....? ;)

Uhhh....doing the enitre bedroom in black velvet....? ;)

Yeah, you now Ruben. Nothing in moderation. :)

Joe

I heard he commissioned a few new Elvis portraits. :D

I heard he commissioned a few new Elvis portraits. :D
I wonder if he's going with..

The Young Elvis Or the Older "Peanut Butter Nanner Sandwich" Elvis
http://www.passionforpaint.com/passionforpaintcom/images/youngelvisonvelvet.JPG . http://www.thevelvetstore.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/elvis_1220.jpg (http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.thevelvetstore.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/elvis_1220.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.thevelvetstore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv%3FScreen%3DPROD%26Product_Code%3Dve012%26Categor y_Code%3D&h=400&w=264&sz=74&hl=en&start=1&tbnid=Ls5LxHV3FukFlM:&tbnh=124&tbnw=82&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dvelvet%2Belvis%26ndsp%3D20%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3D en%26lr%3D%26sa%3DN)

Sorry Ruben -- I couldn't resist ;)

I wonder if he's going with..

The Young Elvis Or the Older "Peanut Butter Nanner Sandwich" Elvis
http://www.passionforpaint.com/passionforpaintcom/images/youngelvisonvelvet.JPG . http://www.thevelvetstore.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/elvis_1220.jpg (http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.thevelvetstore.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/elvis_1220.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.thevelvetstore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv%3FScreen%3DPROD%26Product_Code%3Dve012%26Categor y_Code%3D&h=400&w=264&sz=74&hl=en&start=1&tbnid=Ls5LxHV3FukFlM:&tbnh=124&tbnw=82&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dvelvet%2Belvis%26ndsp%3D20%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3D en%26lr%3D%26sa%3DN)

Sorry Ruben -- I couldn't resist ;)

Def the "Peanut Butter Nanner Sandwich" Elvis :D

Ruben

Hey Guys,

I get allot of PM's and emails from people starting home theaters asking me where to buy their equipment from. I'm gonna post this here because It's hard to keep up with answering the same PM's and emails over and over again.

I just want to say, I have not found anyone online or locally with better pricing or better service than AVS. I think allot of people that come to AVS don't realize AVS sells Home Theater products and even yet, for rediculously low prices.

When I first came here and even after being here for a while, I didn't really know that AVS sold allot of different HT products. So I ended up paying higher prices everywhere else during the build of my HT and I thought I was getting good deals too. Well towards the end, I got on the phone with Alan Gouger from here for some other reason and found out his prices were about 20 - 30% lower than what I was paying, boy was I pissed. So I manage to get my Lumagen Scaler off him and my First D-Box as well.

So for anyone reading this thread that is starting a home theater, save yourself a ton of money and time and contact jason@avscience.com or alan@avscience.com These guys are really good guys that know just about everything in the Home Theater business and carry all the equipment you need to boot!

Thanks
Ruben

Hey Guys,

I get allot of PM's and emails from people starting home theaters asking me where to buy their equipment from. I'm gonna post this here because It's hard to keep up with answering the same PM's and emails over and over again.

I just want to say, I have not found anyone online or locally with better pricing or better service than AVS. I think allot of people that come to AVS don't realize AVS sells Home Theater products and even yet, for rediculously low prices.

When I first came here and even after being here for a while, I didn't really know that AVS sold allot of different HT products. So I ended up paying higher prices everywhere else during the build of my HT and I thought I was getting good deals too. Well towards the end, I got on the phone with Alan Gouger from here for some other reason and found out his prices were about 20 - 30% lower than what I was paying, boy was I pissed. So I manage to get my Lumagen Scaler off him and my First D-Box as well.

So for anyone reading this thread that is starting a home theater, save yourself a ton of money and time and contact jason@avscience.com or alan@avscience.com These guys are really good guys that know just about everything in the Home Theater business and carry all the equipment you need to boot!

Thanks
Ruben

Do they carry good AT screens too? :D

Joe

People who liked Ruben's Samsung Q1 can get a good deal on it over at woot.com.

People who liked Ruben's Samsung Q1 can get a good deal on it over at woot.com.


Those are refurbished, just so you know.

Ruben

Yep, I have bought refurbed equipment at times and honestly wouldn't have been able to tell that it was unless someone told me. Not all of us are made of moneybags ;)

Edit: Yay... 100th page achieved!

I've been ooking around on the web for more info on these and found the Q1 on Woot for $752 shipped:

http://www.woot.com/Blog/BlogEntry.aspx?BlogEntryId=1666



A little update,

Today I got my Tabletkiosk eo UMPC i7209 (http://www.tabletkiosk.com/tkstore/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=35&idproduct=153) to use with my automated home and theater. I have the Samsumg Q1 as well, but I like the fact that the eo has a charging dock station and a built in camera.

Here are some flix showing the Q1 and the eo...

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/Tablets/IMG_5626.jpg

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/Tablets/IMG_5627.jpg

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/Tablets/IMG_5633.jpg

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/Tablets/IMG_5634.jpg

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/Tablets/IMG_5638.jpg

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/Tablets/IMG_5642.jpg

Ruben,

Between the tabletkiosk and the Q1, which is working better for a remote control? pro's / con's of each? I'm looking for a unit with a directional pad (hard buttos) that works well for navigating menus, etc. Between the two, which would have better directional buttons (up, down, left, right, enter)? Thanks.

The two major downers for the Q1 are no dock and the thing is a fingerprint magnet, the EO has a camera. If someone could clarify if the Asus http://www.asus.com/news_show.aspx?id=4070 has a dock it sort of kicks the snot out of both because it has GPS and a couple other goodies, plus I like the look

I need a GPS to find my way to the seats... :D :p Only you have need of this Mark.... :rolleyes:

Just kidding... Its amazing what they can cram into these computers nowadays....

I was thinking GPS for the car since the wife always gets lost as in........." just take the touchscreen and it will lead you right to the place to pick me up 300 concrete blocks ( by hand)"

These would be nice in a 10", hopefully Tablet Kiosks will be this nice http://www.savantav.com/panels.asp

Ruben,

I just installed the blue LED rope lights in my light tray. The ones I bought are 9 feet long, so I am using 6 of them. The funny thing is that when I plug them in, even though I have the channel on the Grafik eye totally down, they light up a little bit. Not enough to give off any reflection on the ceiling but if you look at them directly they are glowing.

Do yours do that too?

BTW, LED is definately the way to go. I bought a set of both types of blue lights and the standard ones you can hardly tell they are blue. I will be throwing some pics up on my build thread shortly and you can see the difference.

Joe

Ruben,

I just installed the blue LED rope lights in my light tray. The ones I bought are 9 feet long, so I am using 6 of them. The funny thing is that when I plug them in, even though I have the channel on the Grafik eye totally down, they light up a little bit. Not enough to give off any reflection on the ceiling but if you look at them directly they are glowing.

Do yours do that too?

BTW, LED is definately the way to go. I bought a set of both types of blue lights and the standard ones you can hardly tell they are blue. I will be throwing some pics up on my build thread shortly and you can see the difference.

Joe

Hi Joe,

My rope shuts completely off. But listen to this, whenever I dim them off with the grafik eye, after they completely dim off they flash back on lowly for a quick half second then shut off completely.

Ruben

Ruben,

Between the tabletkiosk and the Q1, which is working better for a remote control? pro's / con's of each? I'm looking for a unit with a directional pad (hard buttos) that works well for navigating menus, etc. Between the two, which would have better directional buttons (up, down, left, right, enter)? Thanks.

I sold my Q-1 and kept the tabletkiosk for the theater. It is working great so far. I am using Cinemar Main Lobby for the automation and it is working very well. Main Lobby is a very powerful program that allows you to do just about anything with automation and security. Plus Main Lobby comes with pre-made templates (called scenes) to work with and tons of graphics.

Ruben

Hi Joe,

My rope shuts completely off. But listen to this, whenever I dim them off with the grafik eye, after they completely dim off they flash back on lowly for a quick half second then shut off completely.

Ruben

I get some flickers too. Kind of weird. How about if you have the other light channels up bright and turn the LED one off. Does it still go completely dark?

Joe

For everyone that has those fiber optic lightboxes for the star ceilings, here is the mods we did to eliminate the noisy fan and hot halogen bulb and successfully use LED MR-16 type bulbs without burning out.

As some of you read before, I was blowing out MR-16 LED bulbs in 5 - 10 minutes with my fiber optic light boxes. We were able to modify the bulb to no longer blow out.

First here is the MR-16 LED Bulb. It has 31 LEDS in it...

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/light-box-mods/0.jpg

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/light-box-mods/1.jpg

We used a knife to remove the LED Panel from the MR-16 type bulb

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/light-box-mods/2.jpg

Here is what the inside of this bulb looks like...

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/light-box-mods/3.jpg

The reason why my bulbs were burning out was because this little panel that is attached to the back of the LED panel was getting too hot and the solder from the wires melted and disconnected which made me think they burnt out.

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/light-box-mods/4.jpg

So what we did was remove the little regulator panel from the LED panel as seen below...

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/light-box-mods/5.jpg

And then we soldered the wires directly to the LED panel eliminating that little regulator panel.

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/light-box-mods/6.jpg

Here is a before shot of the Fiber Optic Liught box on the inside. As you can see, there is a Transformer for the Halogen on the left side along with a fan. The motor and wheel on top are straight 120v, no transformer is used for the spinning wheel motor.

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/light-box-mods/7.jpg

We began our light box mod by removing the Noisy Fan and existing AC transformer.

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/light-box-mods/8.jpg

Here is a close up of the transformer. We snipped off the input and output wires to attach to our new DC transformer...

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/light-box-mods/9.jpg

We then grabbed a couple 12v DC transformers I had in my junk wire box upstairs and cracked them open to use the DC transformers. We soldered the wires from the older AC transformer onto the new DC transformer and this is what we got...

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/light-box-mods/10.jpg

We then popped the new DC transformer inside the light Box hooked up the modified LED bulb and hooked the power up.

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/light-box-mods/11.jpg

SUCCESS!!!

http://www.smxscreen.com/images/light-box-mods/12.jpg

The light boxes are now silent and run very cool (no fan needed anymore) and the stars look much more natural now with the LED bulbs. They now have a real nice bluish white look to them, whereas the halogens had a yellow look. The light box uses one source of power for the spinning wheel and lightbulb. These can be seperated to 2 different plugs if you wanted to have the spinning wheel and light bulb on 2 different dimmers.

The speed and brightness of the new modded box is perfect to my standards during movie watching and in all theater lights on mode.

The new modded light boxes have been running perfectly for 2 weeks straight now.

Ruben

Wow, nice, very impressive..

Hi Ruben - Can you give me an idea of the rpm speed that your twinkle wheel turns? I am thinking of doing a DIY light box and want to source a small gear motor. A close up of that twinkle wheel might assist me as well, but I think I can scale everything from the pic that you have posted.

Cheers,
Lewis

Hey Ruben,

Perfect timing!! :)

I had just taken mine apart to see if I could figure out why yours was burning out. Well, I don't happen to have any transformers with a DC regulator laying around so don't you think that I could take the small regulator out of the bulb and wire it between the current transformer that is in the case and the bulb socket? Do you think if it is sitting in the open air it will still get hot enough to melt the solder? man, that is pretty hot!!!

Joe

Hey Ruben,

About the MR-16 LED bulb, I see they have a 12V and also a 120V bulb at http://www.expresslighting.com/mrlowlinvolt.html Could I choose the 120V bulb and bypass the 12V DC transformer? Sidetracking, I also counted the LEDs in your bulb and it is more than 31.

Thai

Hey Ruben,

About the MR-16 LED bulb, I see they have a 12V and also a 120V bulb at http://www.expresslighting.com/mrlowlinvolt.html Could I choose the 120V bulb and bypass the 12V DC transformer? Sidetracking, I also counted the LEDs in your bulb and it is more than 31.

Thai

That link points to halogen bulbs. That is what Ruben is trying to eliminate because of the heat.

Joe

Hey Ruben,
I also counted the LEDs in your bulb and it is more than 31.

Thai

Your right, it looks ike they have 48 LEDs in them. I must of ordered something else and forgot.

Ruben

Woops,

Thanks Joe, was just browsing around and forgot the LED part. So where can I find the 12V DC transformer?

Thai

So where do I start?

Well today I got the Danley up behind the screenwall in position and wired up to the Amp/processor/DVD player. What can I say? I'm still not getting what I am expecting to get. Am I expecting too much? The Danley rattles everything in my room that isn't tied down, but doesn't produce any sound pressure.

Ruben

Ruben,
I haven't gotten to the conclusion of this dilemma. I've been too busy clicking on the multitude of links- I feel like I've read The Rise and Fall of the Roman Empire five times! I must admit, this is a better read.

Pink Floyd's Sorrow is great for low bass frequencies, if your pants don't shake violently during the intro, Kong won't roar.
Whenever I want to check for room rattles, I plug in my SWR bass amp and chase out the crickets.

You do great work.

Sincerely,
Alan

P.S. Perhaps Danley should rename the DTS-20 to "The Slaughterhouse Sub."

Ruben,

Are your LED ropes actually dimming? I can go form totally off to the first dimmed position on the GE and the LEDs go on full strength.

Joe

Ruben,

Are your LED ropes actually dimming? I can go form totally off to the first dimmed position on the GE and the LEDs go on full strength.

Joe

Yes I can dim them at any level. I can really fine tune the dimness as well. I do it all through the Lutron Grafik Eye.

Ruben

Yes I can dim them at any level. I can really fine tune the dimness as well. I do it all through the Lutron Grafik Eye.

Ruben

Dang. Maybe I bought the wrong kind.

Are you using line voltage to the LEDs? Or low voltage?

Where did you buy them from?

Thanks

Joe

Dang. Maybe I bought the wrong kind.

Are you using line voltage to the LEDs? Or low voltage?

Where did you buy them from?

Thanks

Joe

Line Voltage.
I plug them straight into my outlet in my light tray that is controlled by the Grafik Eye.

I got them off ebay from eBay seller "ledadvantage" they were "LED 59' BLUE 3-WIRE X-BRIGHT 120V ROPE LIGHT_3-WIRE_BIN" for $124.95

Ruben

"Originally Posted by SandmanX
So where do I start?

Well today I got the Danley up behind the screenwall in position and wired up to the Amp/processor/DVD player. What can I say? I'm still not getting what I am expecting to get. Am I expecting too much? The Danley rattles everything in my room that isn't tied down, but doesn't produce any sound pressure.

Ruben"

Ruben,
I haven't gotten to the conclusion of this dilemma. I've been too busy clicking on the multitude of links- I feel like I've read The Rise and Fall of the Roman Empire five times! I must admit, this is a better read.


Oh, I think he found the problem. Dilemma ends with a Chandelier being knocked off the ceiling upstairs soon as the preamp levels were sorted out :D

Soundood, you bringing up things from the past (including that the problem is no longer a problem) for a reason? A little behind on this post? :) Lots of reading there, that's for sure.

Oh, I think he found the problem. Dilemma ends with a Chandelier being knocked off the ceiling upstairs soon as the preamp levels were sorted out :D

And to think I was only a page away. :rolleyes:

Soundood, you bringing up things from the past (including that the problem is no longer a problem) for a reason? A little behind on this post? :) Lots of reading there, that's for sure.

Nah...just helping Winkelmann catch up on this never ending epic thread and making sure there is no misunderstanding of the capabilities of the DTS-20 engine of destruction. :D

I'm posting this to be the 3,000th reply :D

Ruben