Sometimes I wish I lived in the states, Ruben you have gotten some amazing deals. I said 20K because I figured you already had the equipment for the room. as i do, So I was basing it off what the room costs to build.

The things that suck for me here in Canada are:

The Berkline 075 chairs, I believe you paid $4600 for 7 chairs in Leather/microfabric
Here in Canada for 5 in leather/Microfabric will cost me $6500 Cdn. I wish I had an address in the states so I could get in on the current powerbuy and then just ship them to Canada from there. I wonder what you would have paid for 5 chairs?

The star ceiling, if I order from Fosi they quoted me roughly $2100 US which isnt bad considering I have a bigger ceiling. But If I bought the Fiber Optic Ceiling from the local theater store here, They quoted me $7000 Cdn before labour!!!!

Lutron Grafik Eye 3106 here in Canada is $1199. You do the US to CDN dollar conversion and you'll notice a big difference.

BTX Motor Drape is $899 from what I was quoted, again way more than the US cost.

Only thing I saved on was the renders, which Chirpie is handling now... and that is only because I used Rubens room as a starting point. So thanks Ruben for saving me a few bucks, I can really use it at this part of the build...lol

By the way Ruben Thanks for the price list, It lets me know all of the materials I will need!

Sometimes I wish I lived in the states, Ruben you have gotten some amazing deals. I said 20K because I figured you already had the equipment for the room. as i do, So I was basing it off what the room costs to build.

The things that suck for me here in Canada are:

The Berkline 075 chairs, I believe you paid $4600 for 7 chairs in Leather/microfabric
Here in Canada for 5 in leather/Microfabric will cost me $6500 Cdn. I wish I had an address in the states so I could get in on the current powerbuy and then just ship them to Canada from there. I wonder what you would have paid for 5 chairs?

The star ceiling, if I order from Fosi they quoted me roughly $2100 US which isnt bad considering I have a bigger ceiling. But If I bought the Fiber Optic Ceiling from the local theater store here, They quoted me $7000 Cdn before labour!!!!

Lutron Grafik Eye 3106 here in Canada is $1199. You do the US to CDN dollar conversion and you'll notice a big difference.

BTX Motor Drape is $899 from what I was quoted, again way more than the US cost.

Only thing I saved on was the renders, which Chirpie is handling now... and that is only because I used Rubens room as a starting point. So thanks Ruben for saving me a few bucks, I can really use it at this part of the build...lol

By the way Ruben Thanks for the price list, It lets me know all of the materials I will need!

Collin you were right on with the build price. The equipment I owned already for a while except a few items I purchased recently.

The BTX Motordrape I got is a loud Piece of crap that I got ripped off on. You can get the same thing on eBay for $150.00 without it's brand name.

The Grafik Eye I got on eBay, found a good deal on it.

The Renders I done over 5 times thats why it was more than yours.

The Berklines were $680.00 each with shipping included.

I bought All my fiber parts at fiberopticproducts.com I over bought materials and sold the left overs to someone on AVS. They are still in business.

The Key is to hunt for Deals on Google and eBay. Whenever I need to buy something, I research It thoroughly now. Its so easy to do with the internet.

Like right now I'm looking at Remote controls and I am considering the Aurora MX-950 RF, It goes for $699.00 but I found it for $375.00

Ruben

what drape system would you recommend?

I will try fiberopticsproducts.com thanks for the heads up. I know nothing about fiber optic ceilings so I guess it's time for some research. What materials would I need to buy from them to fill a 20x11 ceiling? The Theater room ceiling will be 23 x 15 so I figure after the soffits and veneer work this is likely the space I will have to fill with stars, Is that a correct assumption?

The biggest expense for me is the Berkiline seats, I have found a bunch of great deals online for them. But all of them including the place you got yours tell me they cannot ship to Canada. They all tell me to find an address in the states they can ship them to and then have whoever I ship them to in the states ship them to me! Problem is, I know noone in the states so I am stuck with the only store here in Ottawa that wants to overcharge me an arm and a leg for them. It's really shi**y. lol

For my equipment I have everything right now except the projector which I am undecided on, most likely the Ruby 2 if it comes out with better light output and the screen which will be an AT Screen and I am just waiting on your audio tests for your material. Dont wanna have to pony up all that money for the screen research model but I will if I have to I guess. I saw one at my Calibrators house and it looked amazing, but that was with nothing to compare it to right beside it.

Sorry for the long post with tons of questions.

This is pretty much the same track and motor I got but without the BTX name $119.00

Go to eBay and search for motorized curtain, then look for the Remote Control RC Motorized Window Drapery Curtain Rod for $119.00


Call Fiberopticproducts.com and tell them your ceiling size and they will tell you Everything you need.

A Ruby 2 is coming out?

Chairs I can't help you with.

Ruben

The Ruby 2 will be out by the time i am done my room..lol atleast 6 months, only starting to build in 2-3months. If it isn't out then I will go for a 3 chip DLP of some sort.

Thanks for the drapes link.

Didn't expect you to help me out on the chairs, just letting you know how lucky you are to get them at that price compared to if you lived in Canada. 5 chairs at your price is $3400 US which is under $4000 CDN compar that to $6500 CDN and Icould buy apower amp or an overpriced Screen or etc etc...

The Ruby 2 will be out by the time i am done my room..lol atleast 6 months, only starting to build in 2-3months. If it isn't out then I will go for a 3 chip DLP of some sort.

Thanks for the drapes link.

Didn't expect you to help me out on the chairs, just letting you know how lucky you are to get them at that price compared to if you lived in Canada. 5 chairs at your price is $3400 US which is under $4000 CDN compar that to $6500 CDN and Icould buy apower amp or an overpriced Screen or etc etc...

Check Your PM

[
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Total Cost of Build, Equipment and DVDs for Theater $70,271.16

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[/QUOTE]

Somewhere at the bottom I was expecting the word PRICELESS until I ran into this number. ;) .but I saw someone else spend $100K - albeit - very nice theater -but not even close to what you did - IM SO IMPRESSED by folks like you who have wicked skills to build and to be able to have the patient for details...I truly envy you for it and the rest of the fellas here...I use to be impressed putting a light fixture up and that is not running the electrical myself..I feel sheepish...

IM AM NOT WORTHY!!!heheheh..I have a huge unfinished basement - yep say what you gotta say about cold Chicago - but I love that we have basements - you should know by being or living in South Bronx....My vision is there but I feel like the HOME DEPOT commercial...I AM NOT AN ELECTRICAN, I AM NOT A PAINTER,etc...

You can basically figure it at around $50K since most don't include DVDs in the cost, he hired out a bit of it (not that nobody else does.. just pointing that out), and a couple of things he mentioned that he didn't need (motorized drapes could be cheaper, etc).

That's a darn good theater for $50K, and assuming you have most of your own gear, it's more like $20K. Thanks for the detailed list, Ruben.

Now a question for you, Ruben.. Where in general did you get a few of your supplies? (By in general, I mean the types of stores you looked for as I'm not sure where to begin with some of your supplies.. I realize that I won't be able to go to the same store you did if it's B&M) Specifically, I'm curious about:

- Veneer & Glue
- Quarter/Half rounds
- Particle board (HD/Lowe's? I remember seeing MDF, but not necessarily particle board)
- Red oak plywood (is this the standard oak plywood like at HD?)
- 1,000 DVDs (j/k...)

You can basically figure it at around $50K since most don't include DVDs in the cost, he hired out a bit of it (not that nobody else does.. just pointing that out), and a couple of things he mentioned that he didn't need (motorized drapes could be cheaper, etc).

That's a darn good theater for $50K, and assuming you have most of your own gear, it's more like $20K. Thanks for the detailed list, Ruben.

Now a question for you, Ruben.. Where in general did you get a few of your supplies? (By in general, I mean the types of stores you looked for as I'm not sure where to begin with some of your supplies.. I realize that I won't be able to go to the same store you did if it's B&M) Specifically, I'm curious about:

- Veneer & Glue
- Quarter/Half rounds
- Particle board (HD/Lowe's? I remember seeing MDF, but not necessarily particle board)
- Red oak plywood (is this the standard oak plywood like at HD?)
- 1,000 DVDs (j/k...)

Any good hardwood supply shop in your area will carry veneer, hardwoods, half-rounds. Loew's and Home Depot will carry the veneer plywood but make sure of what your buying. Red Oak, white Oak, etc... Veneers come in a peel and stick or where you have to use a contact cement.

You may try this online company for your veneers...

VENEER (http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/prices.html)

Ok Mike, You gotta be more than a "nut" man. I was gonna make the same comment and you beat me to it. Is your background in engineering?

Joe

My degree is in economics, but I was a Physics/Computer Science dual major in college for a while. I also was half way through the training and licensing to become a nuclear reactor operator. I could'a been Homer! Doh!

You can basically figure it at around $50K since most don't include DVDs in the cost, he hired out a bit of it (not that nobody else does.. just pointing that out), and a couple of things he mentioned that he didn't need (motorized drapes could be cheaper, etc).

That's a darn good theater for $50K, and assuming you have most of your own gear, it's more like $20K. Thanks for the detailed list, Ruben.

Now a question for you, Ruben.. Where in general did you get a few of your supplies? (By in general, I mean the types of stores you looked for as I'm not sure where to begin with some of your supplies.. I realize that I won't be able to go to the same store you did if it's B&M) Specifically, I'm curious about:

- Veneer & Glue
- Quarter/Half rounds
- Particle board (HD/Lowe's? I remember seeing MDF, but not necessarily particle board)
- Red oak plywood (is this the standard oak plywood like at HD?)
- 1,000 DVDs (j/k...)

Thanks Man!

I posted about where I bought all my specialty supplies in THIS POST (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6716981&&#post6716981)

Ruben

[
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Total Cost of Build, Equipment and DVDs for Theater $70,271.16

-------------------------------------------------------------------------



Somewhere at the bottom I was expecting the word PRICELESS until I ran into this number. ;) .but I saw someone else spend $100K - albeit - very nice theater -but not even close to what you did - IM SO IMPRESSED by folks like you who have wicked skills to build and to be able to have the patient for details...I truly envy you for it and the rest of the fellas here...I use to be impressed putting a light fixture up and that is not running the electrical myself..I feel sheepish...

IM AM NOT WORTHY!!!heheheh..I have a huge unfinished basement - yep say what you gotta say about cold Chicago - but I love that we have basements - you should know by being or living in South Bronx....My vision is there but I feel like the HOME DEPOT commercial...I AM NOT AN ELECTRICAN, I AM NOT A PAINTER,etc...

Thanks for your kind words Rich. It feels good to see people that appreciate your work and style when it's all done.

Ruben

Now that is impressive. I think you would win any under $75K HT competition.

J-dubb

Thanks Man. Once I get the column covers completed, the screen up, and the rug dyed I will have my friend come over and shoot some professional shots of the room. he has super wide angle lenses and pro lighting.

Ruben

Ruben,

Are you going to use your HT to shoot any of your videos? : ) It would make a nice backdrop, unique theme, and good acoustics! Might want to bring in different seating though,... maybe a "love seat" or two.

Like right now I'm looking at Remote controls and I am considering the Aurora MX-950 RF, It goes for $699.00 but I found it for $375.00

Ruben

If I were you, and because you have MainLobby, I would look at wireless touch screen panels for your remotes. I have been playing around quite a bit with those and the ability to change the look and feel of the remote at any time is wonderful. I can also log onto different accounts on the server so that each touch screen can have different looks and feels and different functionality. For example, our pool room is going to be dark reds and so I can have the on-wall remote matching the decor of the room. The best thing is that my wife is already convinced and she likes the way the new "remotes" work. We even have one in the kitchen that most of the time is displaying the weather but can also control all of the lights in the house. (I am working on connecting it to the main house stereo and having it manage the different zones.)

And no, I am not a Cinemar dealer. :)

Joe

This is pretty much the same track and motor I got but without the BTX name $119.00

Go to eBay and search for motorized curtain, then look for the Remote Control RC Motorized Window Drapery Curtain Rod for $119.00


Ruben

But didn't you say is was noisy and crummy?

Joe

My degree is in economics, but I was a Physics/Computer Science dual major in college for a while. I also was half way through the training and licensing to become a nuclear reactor operator. I could'a been Homer! Doh!

Hmmm, but isn't he a donut man? :D (LOL at my own dumb humor.)

Joe

Finishing Touch's
$4,600.00 for 7 Leather/Microfabric chairs Delivered.

[b]


Ruben, I loved the chairs you got. I am getting very different quotes from leather-direct. The ones you got were all leather+microfiber or leather+vinyl+microfiber (also known as leather plus)? Were they manual recline or power recline? If I remember it right, you did not order buttkickers. Please let me know.

Waiting for the pictures of the completed room!!!

If I were you, and because you have MainLobby, I would look at wireless touch screen panels for your remotes. I have been playing around quite a bit with those and the ability to change the look and feel of the remote at any time is wonderful. I can also log onto different accounts on the server so that each touch screen can have different looks and feels and different functionality. For example, our pool room is going to be dark reds and so I can have the on-wall remote matching the decor of the room. The best thing is that my wife is already convinced and she likes the way the new "remotes" work. We even have one in the kitchen that most of the time is displaying the weather but can also control all of the lights in the house. (I am working on connecting it to the main house stereo and having it manage the different zones.)

And no, I am not a Cinemar dealer. :)

Joe

I have the Cinemar package already and even Mario recommended using a non touch screen in the theater. He said that you don't always want to be looking at the remote trying to find a push button that lights up the whole room (which is true for me).

So the regular remote is probably more idea for me. I had the crestron system before and It was a total nightmare for me.

Ruben,

Are you going to use your HT to shoot any of your videos? : ) It would make a nice backdrop, unique theme, and good acoustics! Might want to bring in different seating though,... maybe a "love seat" or two.

Those chairs are love seats already :D Keep your eyes open ;)

But didn't you say is was noisy and crummy?

Joe

Yep for $500. For $150.00 you can't be mad at it.
I feel I got really ripped off on that purchase.

Ruben

Ruben, I loved the chairs you got. I am getting very different quotes from leather-direct. The ones you got were all leather+microfiber or leather+vinyl+microfiber (also known as leather plus)? Were they manual recline or power recline? If I remember it right, you did not order buttkickers. Please let me know.

Waiting for the pictures of the completed room!!!

Good question. Well I didn't ask for all leather specifically. So it may be the leather plus. It is such a good match that I can't tell the difference and I'm usually very picky about that kind of stuff.

They are not electric recline either. No buttkickers either at the moment.

I just check the Invoice they are leather plus.

Ruben

Wow, Half a day for AVS to re-index threads. I wonder if Rubens massive DIY thread caused this........... :D :D :D

Thanks Ruben. I will be ordering them tomorrow!

This thread was such a motivatiion and I am already working on the sketches for my theater.

You can basically figure it at around $50K since most don't include DVDs in the cost, he hired out a bit of it (not that nobody else does.. just pointing that out)....

Wait a sec, not all of us hire out for help! I had my wife help and a friend for a few hours, otherwise it was all me! I had a carpet installer put the carpet on the back riser and an HVAC guy install more ducting for the room, but that was it.

Of coarse, I didn't do all the columns and a screen wall and and and....


BTW, I was showing my wife some of the great builds going on right now and she was asking if we could do a bigger screen... I told her we could, but only if I brought it out and away from the wall it is mounted on now, since we have a column that has to be there since there is ducting for the water heater behind it... I don't think she wanted to deal with all that, so she said no.

BTW, I was showing my wife some of the great builds going on right now and she was asking if we could do a bigger screen... I told her we could, but only if I brought it out and away from the wall it is mounted on now, since we have a column that has to be there since there is ducting for the water heater behind it... I don't think she wanted to deal with all that, so she said no.
Scott,

I'm considering making my screen slightly larger also. I always wanted something larger but was concerned about SDE. I think I'll do the 'ole sheet trick and see what I can tolerate. Hmm, 10' sounds great right now :rolleyes: Realistically, I could squeeze out 9'. Anything more would push the columns on either side of the screen too close to the walls -- not good since they hold the speakers.

Wait a sec, not all of us hire out for help! I had my wife help and a friend for a few hours, otherwise it was all me! I had a carpet installer put the carpet on the back riser and an HVAC guy install more ducting for the room, but that was it.
I'm not sure where you got the impression that I meant that, Scott. I was just subtracting the hired out amount from the total since, as you said, not everyone hires out; my comment in parenthesis was to not berate him for it.. ;)

I'm not sure where you got the impression that I meant that, Scott. I was just subtracting the hired out amount from the total since, as you said, not everyone hires out; my comment in parenthesis was to not berate him for it.. ;)

I never took it as berating him for it, but I still read it wrong. Sorry. I thought you were saying that nobody does it all on their own.... No harm, no foul.

I'm considering making my screen slightly larger also. I always wanted something larger but was concerned about SDE. I think I'll do the 'ole sheet trick and see what I can tolerate. Hmm, 10' sounds great right now Realistically, I could squeeze out 9'. Anything more would push the columns on either side of the screen too close to the walls -- not good since they hold the speakers.

Well, the old sheet trick won't give me anything except a smaller image on a bigger looking screen, since my projector location is fixed. Unless I either get a new projector, different lens or move it, I can't do anything about it.

If I was to do anything, I would probably use something like Ruben's screen material and build some smaller main speakers so I can have all three behind the screen. I could go about 2 feet wider, but unless I was to shorten my equipment rack, I would be limited in height. I could shorten the rack pretty easilly though if I was seriously considering this. Heck, my projector is getting close to 5 years old now, maybe it's time for a new one?! :) Problem is, I am just now reaching 1000 hours on the projector. I picked up a few more hobies after building the theater and don't use it as much as some others on the forum.

Not a problem.. :)

If I was to do anything, I would probably use something like Ruben's screen material and build some smaller main speakers so I can have all three behind the screen. I could go about 2 feet wider, but unless I was to shorten my equipment rack, I would be limited in height. I could shorten the rack pretty easilly though if I was seriously considering this. Heck, my projector is getting close to 5 years old now, maybe it's time for a new one?! :) Problem is, I am just now reaching 1000 hours on the projector. I picked up a few more hobies after building the theater and don't use it as much as some others on the forum.
Now that sounds like a great excuse to go with an AT screen.. And it'd be cheap as well! Maybe go with a 2.35 screen, then you wouldn't need to shorten your rack, although you'd need an anamorphic lens.

Mr Ruben ,you like to put a courtain on the screen ???

BTW, I was showing my wife some of the great builds going on right now and she was asking if we could do a bigger screen... I told her we could, but only if I brought it out and away from the wall it is mounted on now, since we have a column that has to be there since there is ducting for the water heater behind it... I don't think she wanted to deal with all that, so she said no.

Oh man, You must be newly married. Too complete in your honesty :) You should have answered "yes" and just left the details alone until you were done with the demolition. (I hope my wife doesn't see this post.) :D

Not a problem.. :)


Now that sounds like a great excuse to go with an AT screen.. And it'd be cheap as well! Maybe go with a 2.35 screen, then you wouldn't need to shorten your rack, although you'd need an anamorphic lens.

Tim, I am going to go and do more research but can't you do the 2.35 via an htPC? And if so, what is the difference between doing it with the htPC vs an A.Lens?

Joe

Tim, I am going to go and do more research but can't you do the 2.35 via an htPC? And if so, what is the difference between doing it with the htPC vs an A.Lens?

Joe

You can do it witout a lens but in that situation you are not using all the brightness or pixels that your projector offers (since there are no native 2.35:1 projectors). An anamorphic lens takes an output of 16:9 or 4:3 and optically transforms it to the desired aspect ratio.

David

Mr Ruben, I am looking your construction it is amazing one ,let me ask a single question from India. would you like to design a curtain on your screen ? like some theaters in India.
thanks
an Indian guy.

Tim, I am going to go and do more research but can't you do the 2.35 via an htPC? And if so, what is the difference between doing it with the htPC vs an A.Lens?

Joe
As David was alluding to, to do a constant height setup "correctly" (maximum benefit from it), other than the appropriate projector and screen, of course, you need two things:

1) A scaler to crop the black bars and then vertically stretch the actual image. This could be an external video processor/scaler, a projector with that functionality, or an HTPC.
2) An anamorphic lens that will either horizontally stretch the image or vertically squeeze it back to the correct aspect ratio.

See the 2.35:1 CH forum FAQ (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=554901) for more details..

Reading every response it has taken me a time span of 5 days to get to the end of this thread - mind you a few things got in the way like sleeping and having to pretend to work at my desk at work from time to time.

Hats off to you Ruben - the best design and best load of info in one place I have ever seen.

Cheers from up here in Canada,
Lewis

[QUOTE=CollinViegas]

BTX Motor Drape is $899 from what I was quoted, again way more than the US cost.

QUOTE]


Another option is this: http://htiq.com/index.html

There is a power buy until Feb 28, 2005 on his masking too in this forum over hear:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=640959

His curtain rod system has ability to contain various stops and can also be used for a constant height (CH) screen.

His curtain system is not as cheap as the one Ruben pointed out on ebay (by the way great find Ruben) but it appears more versatile (can have preset stops) and may be quieter (not sure as I have not heard it operate in person).

The curtain system is listed on his website at $699. Furthermore I have spoke to the owner, Don, and he is a very helpful guy (others stated this as well) and answers calls directly himself.

Hey Sandman - I was looking back in the thread to get dimensions of your space (to compare with what I'm about to be working with) and I wondered if you actually ended up with the dimensions you had originally planned?

You said in the very beginning that the finished room width would be 16' but then, when I asked about your stage size you said it was 178" wide (just under 15'). You also said the distance from screen to front row was going to be over 11' but it doesn't look like it in the pictures (but the pictures can be deceiving, I know).

Anyway, if you get the chance, can you post the actual dimensions as built (interested in width and in the distance between your platform and stage)? Or, if you just tell me what the size of that tile pattern on the floor is, I can figure it out (I'm guessing they're 14" x 14") :).

Hey Sandman - I was looking back in the thread to get dimensions of your space (to compare with what I'm about to be working with) and I wondered if you actually ended up with the dimensions you had originally planned?

You said in the very beginning that the finished room width would be 16' but then, when I asked about your stage size you said it was 178" wide (just under 15'). You also said the distance from screen to front row was going to be over 11' but it doesn't look like it in the pictures (but the pictures can be deceiving, I know).

Anyway, if you get the chance, can you post the actual dimensions as built (interested in width and in the distance between your platform and stage)? Or, if you just tell me what the size of that tile pattern on the floor is, I can figure it out (I'm guessing they're 14" x 14") :).

Here are the exact final measurements of the room 179" x 244" x 108" or 14'-11" x 20'-4" x 9'.

It's 110" from the very front center of the stage step to the front middle of the platform.

The distance from the screen to the front row eyes (not reclined) is exactly 120".

Ruben

Awesome. Thanks mucho.

Hey Folks,

I'm thinking about selling my new chairs and getting all Microfabric like Art Sonnebergs chairs. I also think I'm going to do all black chairs with maybe red pinstripes, what do to think? I got a couple guys that are interested in buying these off me and I am really considering selling. If anyone here is interested in these as well, please PM me.

I took 3 chairs out the boxes and set them Up to snap some pictures. What do you guys think? Is it too much Red in the room? Be honest. The pictures look Extra red as usual and the chairs look shiny (which they aren't) due to shining a light on them.

http://loutrixrecords.com/images/theater-pix/chairs-web/DSC08546.jpg

http://loutrixrecords.com/images/theater-pix/chairs-web/DSC08548.jpg

http://loutrixrecords.com/images/theater-pix/chairs-web/DSC08549.jpg

http://loutrixrecords.com/images/theater-pix/chairs-web/DSC08560.jpg

http://loutrixrecords.com/images/theater-pix/chairs-web/DSC08563.jpg

http://loutrixrecords.com/images/theater-pix/chairs-web/DSC08569.jpg

I think the chairs look excellent in that room...There is no way I would sell them..

Those chairs are fabulous. Keep them.
If you insist, add some black to the wall!! May be make the alternate panels black.

I agree, with the amount of black vs red in the room already (seems to be about 40/60), the chairs are just about right. Perhaps a slightly wider black for the seat and back, but it's really not a big deal. I certainly think that black chairs with some red accents wouldn't be enough red. The chairs look awesome in that room... I'm just trying to be as picky as you are.. :)

I think the chairs look awesome and go well with the room. If you go with black chairs, they will likely "disappear" into the carpet.

Having said that, I definitely prefer the microfibre over leather for HT use. Warmer, doesn't slide, doesn't "squeak", etc. Also, the one huge faux pas (pardon me for saying that as most of what you've done is just outstanding) that I see in this whole setup is the lack of power recline on those chairs. That is, IMO, the best money spent on the Berks. Not just because its "cool" but because it is so much more functional than the manual option.

So, if it were me, it would be a real hard decision because those chairs do match the room very well but wouldn't be as functional as I would like.

[QUOTE=SandmanX]Hey Folks,

I'm thinking about selling my new chairs and getting all Microfabric like Art Sonnebergs chairs. I also think I'm going to do all black chairs with maybe red pinstripes, what do to think? I got a couple guys that are interested in buying these off me and I am really considering selling. If anyone here is interested in these as well, please PM me.

QUOTE]

What are your reasons for going Microfabric vs the leather?

Ya they look horrible.. I will buy them to put in my almost exact same room because I love horrible. lol

No seriously they look awesome, We were speaking the other night about 2 of them, but what are you considering selling them for? PM me if you would like, you know I am interested.

are you only selling all 7 or is it by chair? I dont wanna go more than 5 as we discussed on the phone and I also want atleast the front 2 to be power recline, because that's were me and the wife will be sitting.

Everyone else should be happy to be able to even recline at all....lol

Let me know Ruben.

Btw..for comparison - can you put some pix of the Art Sonnebergs chairs...I have no idea what they look like

I think they really set it off. They're certainly different.

Heck, it almost looks as good as Reaper's renders... ;)

I don't know, looks pretty cool to me... got any pictures of the alternatives?

http://www.artsonneborn.com//html/new_ht_1.html

thats a link to Arts Theater

Ruben, have you thought of a name for your theater yet? SandmanX theater? No, can't be that simple. How about "Redrum"? You can pronounce it "Red Room", but we all know what Redrum is, or at least all of us that like movies....

It was used in "The Shining" http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0081505/

Thanks Guys for all the input. I think what's throwing me off is the all red walls. Once the black column grills go up it should break the room up more. I was waiting on some more cotton to arrive to stuff them and get the grills on them.

As far as not getting powered chairs this time, the last time I got them I had allot of problems with them. I just kept it simple this time. The chairs are fully functional to us without a motor in them. You guys are getting too lazy anyway :D

Ruben

Man Theater Automation is the Coolest thing. I had an older Harmony 688 Remote here that I use in my Media room and I wiped It out to reprogram the Theater components. It took about 20 minutes to quickly set up the whole room online and download the script to the remote to mess around with.

On the first try... Now I hit the watch Movie button on the Remote, the Lights dim to my selected scene, Star Ceiling Dims too, the movie curtains open, the PJ turns on and goes to the correct input, the HTPC turns on and goes to the Movies and the Receiver turns on and selects the correct audio input. I even have a DVI switcher that gets switched to the proper input the remote selects the correct Aspect Ratio for the HTPC.

Once I hit off on the remote, it shuts down all the equipment and turns the lights back up to Full Mode and closes the movie curtains.

I think I'm going to stick with the New Harmony 890 RF Remote. It like the look and feel to it and I'm already familiar with the set up.

Ruben

Does the 890 RF base station have the ability to connect emitters to it? From the picture it looks like its just a blaster - which means it has to sit out in front of all your gear (which does me no good).

I've felt that RF is the one thing that Harmony is missing. I hope they haven't crippled it now that they have it...

UPDATE: Sandman - you got me researching this remote and I think I've uncovered that it has a LOT of problems. Check out the forum on remotecentral (and even the logitech site). Lots of bugs in this thing - especially the RF functionality. I think I'll stick with my MX-800RF for now - its been rock solid. Maybe by the time I need it, though, the Harmony will have the bugs worked out.

Ruben -

Do you actually work in construction/building for a living??

Does the 890 RF base station have the ability to connect emitters to it? From the picture it looks like its just a blaster - which means it has to sit out in front of all your gear (which does me no good).

I've felt that RF is the one thing that Harmony is missing. I hope they haven't crippled it now that they have it...

UPDATE: Sandman - you got me researching this remote and I think I've uncovered that it has a LOT of problems. Check out the forum on remotecentral (and even the logitech site). Lots of bugs in this thing - especially the RF functionality. I think I'll stick with my MX-800RF for now - its been rock solid. Maybe by the time I need it, though, the Harmony will have the bugs worked out.

Yeah I read all the bad stuff about the 890 too. There was also allot of bad stuff about the 688 when I bought it and I never had an issue with it. It seems most the problems are with people trying to use the RF through different floors in thier House. I will be using It in one room so maybe the 880 will be fill as well. I have the Xantech Eye in front of the room and it seems to be very powerfull. I pointed my remote in the Opposite direction and everything still worked.

You can also connect 1/8" IR remitters to the 890 Base as you asked.

Ruben

I think I'll stick with my MX-800RF for now - its been rock solid. Maybe by the time I need it, though, the Harmony will have the bugs worked out. Look into the MX950, Its amazing and works with your RF base station. We are using 1 RF receiver centered in the attic and it works 2 stories below and through many walls. Great looking/ feeling remote, we tried the MX 850 but found it clunky for whole house use

No!!!!!!!!! Keep The Chairs They Really Set Off The Home Theater Look

Darkman

Thanks, Mark. I'll check it out.

And Ruben, thanks for the definitive answer on the Harmony base station.

Update:

Today we Ripped open the wall that use to be a door to the garage. Instead of having a door leading to another door, I opened the wall up to flow with the house. I know 2 doors is better than one for sound blocking, but it just didn't feel right. I want the Theater to be part of the home, not a hidden extension of it.

Ruben

My Friend gave me a real good idea to save space and reduce heat in the main equipment rack. He said that I should put my 2 monoblock amps right up behind the screen wall next to the Main front speakers. This will free up a good amount of space in the rack to get another Jukebox and rack mounted xBox in there.

Ruben

Sure, and the heat could simply radiate and have plenty of airflow around them. The downside is running longer low voltage interconnects and then amplifying the possibly slightly degraded/corrupted signal, instead of amplifying an assumed clean signal from 3 ft interconnects and sending the powered signal down longer speaker wires.

I also think that the chairs look KILL in the room but I also love the look of the chairs.

Sure, and the heat could simply radiate and have plenty of airflow around them. The downside is running longer low voltage interconnects and then amplifying the possibly slightly degraded/corrupted signal, instead of amplifying an assumed clean signal from 3 ft interconnects and sending the powered signal down longer speaker wires.

So what's better, pushing lots of clean power over long speaker wire runs and allowing the power to degrade with the length of cable or using long, low voltage, shielded cables and short high-power speaker wire? http://www.tlzone.net/forums/images/smilies/dunno.gif

Running high quality, sheilded, balanced cables will not result in any loss or noise and having the amps close to the speakers will have the added benefit of a higher dampening factor - tighter bass.

As long as the cables are run properly (avoiding noise sources like power runs) and well shielded you should be fine with the amps at the speakers, the only time to worry about long line-level runs is if you can't properly protect the signal from interference.

THOSE CHAIRS MAKE YOUR ALREADY FANTASTIC ROOM LOOK EVEN MORE UNBELIEVABLE... DON'T CHANGE THEM. well if YOU want to change them then it would be stupid to leave them, but I think I made my vote clear, they match the room perfectly.

Later,
Brian

Well besides getting all the demolition done for the theater entrance today, we brought all the Speakers in the theater and got them mounted in place. I may have to wrap the Mains with speaker grill cloth or use the black backing on the AT screen. They may be a bit reflective without it. I was Shining 2 bright 150 watt lights directly on them to take these pictures. The room absorbs soo much light, which is a good thing :) The cables in the back will be tied down behind the black cotton muslin cloth.

The Mains are Martin Logan Odysseys. The Dimensions are 67" tall x 13" wide x 27" deep. Handles 250 watts each. Sensitivity: 90 dB/2.83 volts/meter
Weight 105 lbs each. These were fun carrying from one side of my house to the other :D

http://loutrixrecords.com/images/theater-pix/speakers/DSC08610.jpg

http://loutrixrecords.com/images/theater-pix/speakers/DSC08612.jpg

http://loutrixrecords.com/images/theater-pix/speakers/DSC08607.jpg

The Center channel is a Martin Logan Theater. I think this is the biggest center channel made. :D
The Dimensions on it are 43" x 13" x 11.5" and weighs 57 lbs.
Handles 250 watts

http://loutrixrecords.com/images/theater-pix/speakers/DSC08601.jpg

These are the rear Surrounds and 2 others will be used for the sides. Thery are the Martin Logan Scripts. The Dimensions are 43.9" tall x 10.2" wide x 6.8" deep and weight 25 lbs each. Handles 150 watts. Sensitivity: 89 dB/2.83 volts/meter

http://loutrixrecords.com/images/theater-pix/speakers/DSC08600.jpg

http://loutrixrecords.com/images/theater-pix/speakers/DSC08594.jpg

http://loutrixrecords.com/images/theater-pix/speakers/DSC08595.jpg

Ruben

Sorry Sandman,

But it seems such a shame to hide your Martin Logan Odysseys behide your screen.

I would have those masterpieces front and center. Still great Ht wish i had your job

so i could afford those babies . Keeep up the great work !!!!

Sorry Sandman,

But it seems such a shame to hide your Martin Logan Odysseys behide your screen.

I would have those masterpieces front and center. Still great Ht wish i had your job

so i could afford those babies . Keeep up the great work !!!!

Don't be Sorry, it's ok :) I had these speakers for a while and they are nothing new to me. Anyway, I think they may be overkill for the room. I may swap them out for some Martin Logan Aeon-i's I have which are a little bigger than the surrounds and they are floor standing.

Ruben

I think you should use a third Odyssey for your center channel -- that would really be the largest center channel they make.

I think you should use a third Odyssey for your center channel -- that would really be the largest center channel they make.

Actually The Martin Logan Statement E would be the biggest Martin Logan Center Channel :)

http://www.nettodirekt.com/bilder/storbild_statement.jpg

Mighty fine theater. I guess I'll be the only one with the opinion that you should sell the seats. There is such thing as too much dazzle. My taste runs more toward the subtle. Black chairs with small red accents (or piping) would suit this room better IMO. It's a shame about hiding the speakers too. It's the only thing to do for this type of HT, however....which is why i keep my CLSIIz's on display in a separate two channel room.

Ruben,

I noticed the keyboard sticking out of your rack. You should look at a rack mount keyboard. They are really nice and pop out on their own tilted tray when in use and then slide away into a 1U spot when not neded.

Joe

Back to the remote control topic,

I think there might be an advantage to making Cinemar the main control of your theater and then using a hand-held remote in the theater like you mentioned to control Cinemar instead of a totally separate system.

I only mention this because I have been working quite a bit with Cinemar lately and I am finding that the capabilities are virtually limitless. I wrote a plugin that talks to all of the legacy X10 that I have throughout the house and I am working on a plugin that communicates to my Denon receiver in my rec room via tcp/ip. I have also put a touch-screen in the kitchen that normally displays the weather but can also control all of the lights and will soon control the different audio zones in the house. Combining this with the controls necessary for a home theater is a nice advantage, imo.

This would also alow you to integrate a really nice touch panel into the lobby of your theater and it could not only show marquee information, or the trailer for the upcoming movie, but also control every aspect of the theater and other areas of your house. Especially for a guy like you who is so video based, with flash as the gui for Cinemar the look and feel is open to the imagination.

Just some thoughts at 4AM...

Joe

Ruben,

I noticed the keyboard sticking out of your rack. You should look at a rack mount keyboard. They are really nice and pop out on their own tilted tray when in use and then slide away into a 1U spot when not neded.

Joe

The HTPC has a built in touch screen with a keyboard on the screen. I was just installing the software to get to that point. So I needed a hardware keyboard for that. That keyboard your talking about sounds awesome though, I will check it out.

Thanks
Ruben

I may swap them out for some Martin Logan Aeon-i's I have which are a little bigger than the surrounds and they are floor standing.

Ruben


Just an FYI - They are discontinuing the Aeon-i's. The replacement model (expected in June) is called Vista. Aeon-is are fine speakers and are being sold at discounted prices now.

Sandman,

Looks great! I sent you a PM back in December. Did you get it? Currently, we are framing the ceilings in my theatre. I have few questions
I will be using ML speakers also as I love them. My speakers are the ML Clarity(L &R), Fresco Center, Vingnette Surrounds. The ML towers require a clearance from the wall, how are you addressing that, if at all.
Also what sound card did you decide to use in your HTPC and to what components did you attach the card and how will you be using the card?

Seats might look cool in all black with the just the seat and back section in red where it is black now. Basically invert the colors but keep the arms all black.

I think it will look great ether way!

By the way did you ever post a pic of the final hidden door details? I saw the partially constructed one, but I dont remember seeing any of the hidden push button release in the moulding that you mentioned a couple hundred posts back. :)

Sorry Sandman,

But it seems such a shame to hide your Martin Logan Odysseys behide your screen.

I would have those masterpieces front and center.

Ruben, you can do what I have seen them do at IMAX theaters and have some lights that shine on the speakers when the rest of the lights are either dim or off, so you can see through the screen (also shows that the screen is transparent), then have them go off when the projector turns on.... Don't know how well it would work with your screen material, whatever you end up using, but you could always try it first using a flashlight.

Sandman,

Credit should be given when and where it is due and what you have done so far is pretty amazing and your theater is one of the best looking on this forum. I've gone through this entire thread and can only say "WOW" and felt the need to let you know how good your theater is looking. I have a theater in my house but have been toying with the idea of turning my 3 car garage into a bigger/better theater and seeing what you have done is really inspiring.

Very, very good work.

Ruben I've been following both of your threads since their inceptions, and I have to commend you for such great ideas and intestinal fortitude to push the envelope......and watch it bend.

-V

Ruben I've been following both of your threads since their inceptions, and I have to commend you for such great ideas and intestinal fortitude to push the envelope......and watch it bend.

-V

Just bend ? I think he is close to putting a tear in the space-time continuum. :eek:

Joe

SandmanX,

I noticed you have Sony 777ES mega changers, how do you like these. I am thinking about these for my room, but the mega changers just seem to never be as good as a inexpensive single disc player like the Oppo, well except for the fact you have 3 boxes with 1200 DVDs in them:)

J-dubb

SandmanX,

I noticed you have Sony 777ES mega changers, how do you like these. I am thinking about these for my room, but the mega changers just seem to never be as good as a inexpensive single disc player like the Oppo, well except for the fact you have 3 boxes with 1200 DVDs in them:)

J-dubb

These Sonys perform rather well. I did a comparison to my HTPC before I bought the rest of them. I was worried about the quality of them as well, as I got use to my Pioneer dv59avi DVD players quality. I was pleasantly surprised.

Ruben

Sandman...

Kudos for a great job. Your craftmanship is incredible!!!

One thing though... wondering why didn't you go with the Odysseys as your center and have an identical front soundstage. Especially given you have an AT screen.

Sandman...

Kudos for a great job. Your craftmanship is incredible!!!

One thing though... wondering why didn't you go with the Odysseys as your center and have an identical front soundstage. Especially given you have an AT screen.

Hi, thanks.

I got the center channel because it was going above my TV before.
I could not put 3 full size Speakers in front of my TV :) That's whay I went with the Theater center channel, because it was the biggest matching speaker they made.

Ruben

Ruben, KEEP THE CHAIRS.............

Those things are awsome. I think the colors balance is perfect.

I just hope we dont see them in a pile like your original columns.....

Ronnie

Here are the Column grills that will get painted and attached to the wood frames then wrapped with Black GoM. They have a 62% openness.

Here is my point about shopping around to save. I was about to have these made from a place in Tampa out of the same steel, gauge and hole pattern. The place in tampa was going to charge me $375.00 for 6 of these Flat (not Rolled). I would of then had to drop another $75 to get these rolled plus have to drive down to Miami to roll them.

I was searching on eBay and a guy was selling small perforated metal for $5 - $10. So I emailed him and he Said he can make all 6 and roll them for $130.00. He did them in one day and it's now a done deal. So I saved $320.00 on those.
http://loutrixrecords.com/images/theater-pix/column-grills/MVC-029S.JPG

http://loutrixrecords.com/images/theater-pix/column-grills/MVC-027S.JPG

http://loutrixrecords.com/images/theater-pix/column-grills/MVC-028S.JPG

Ruben

Perfect Ruben, glad you got a great deal on the grilles!

Perfect Ruben, glad you got a great deal on the grilles!

I know you like my Grills :D

http://img284.echo.cx/img284/44/bb12x6qc.jpg

I know you like my Grills :D

http://img284.echo.cx/img284/44/bb12x6qc.jpg

You wanna see my whaaaaaat?

You wanna see my whaaaaaat?

I wanna see your Grill, Ya, ya grill ya, ya, ya grill :D

Ruben, did you have a couple of options with the perforated metal and choose this one for a particular reason? Any options for more openness (if there were, curious what made you choose the one you did).

Ruben, did you have a couple of options with the perforated metal and choose this one for a particular reason? Any options for more openness (if there were, curious what made you choose the one you did).

That was the most openness available without the piece getting really weak. It has more openness than the speakers going behind them.

Ruben

SandmanX,

Does your 777ES fit in you Middle Atlantic rack. I aske because it is 21.1 inches deep at the bump out and I am gettting the 20" deep rack, however, the bump out on the back may just be far enough from the edge to miss the vertical peice of the rack.

Thanks,

J-dubb

http://loutrixrecords.com/images/theater-pix/speakers/DSC08595.jpg



That's it right there, isn't it?

Does it come in black?

Yes that is it, but no, silver only. I just was not sure if he got the 26" deep rack. Altough the unit is only 17 inches wide so I am sure it will work. Thanks for finding that pic for me.

J-dubb

SandmanX,

Does your 777ES fit in you Middle Atlantic rack. I aske because it is 21.1 inches deep at the bump out and I am gettting the 20" deep rack, however, the bump out on the back may just be far enough from the edge to miss the vertical peice of the rack.

Thanks,

J-dubb

Yes it fits. The Rack shelf is about 1/4" longer than the rack.

Ruben

Hey SandmanX,

I just read this review, and thought immediately of your HTPC setup. If you need liquid cooling for the HTPC, this would definately be the way to go.

http://www.bigbruin.com/reviews05/review.php?item=ttrhythm&file=1

Hi Ruben,

Does your Sony 777ES have that annoying "feature" where on power-up, it automatically selects the first DVD in the machine and begins playing it? I have an older Sony mega changer, and it does this - and there is no way to disable that "feature"...

Other than that, I've been very happy with the machine - the quality of video it throws seems fine to me. The user interface to the machine is a bit annoying, but hey - it does give you access to 400 discs without leaving your chair!

Thanks,

Dwight

The 777 does that - actually, mine usually plays the last disc played from thepoint where it stopped - a resume mode.

I think, if you put a CD in the Disc 1 slot, it gets rid of the auto play "feature."

But, as I'm reaching capacity on my changer, I will likely pull that CD out and put a DVD in there.

I've done some scripting that plays about 60 seconds of trailers (welcome to our theater, soundtrack [DD, DPL, DTS, etc.], and "now for our feature...") on my HTPC while the 777 is queing up the disc to be played. Works very nicely this way.

If we ever stop watching a movie before it's over, we simply power-down the 777, and the movie resumes where we left it when we turn it back on.

You can actually set the 777 to remember the last position of every disc in the changer, if you want - or just the last disc played (one or the other, can't have it remember some and not others). I have mine set to remember the last disc only.

Ruben, have you put the fabric on the grills yet? Got them installed yet?

Also, what have you decided (so far) about your chairs?

Hi Ruben,

Does your Sony 777ES have that annoying "feature" where on power-up, it automatically selects the first DVD in the machine and begins playing it? I have an older Sony mega changer, and it does this - and there is no way to disable that "feature"...

Other than that, I've been very happy with the machine - the quality of video it throws seems fine to me. The user interface to the machine is a bit annoying, but hey - it does give you access to 400 discs without leaving your chair!

Thanks,

Dwight

Not to throw the thread off track but I thought I would mention a fix for this. If you are using a programable remote that can handle macros, add one in that has the 777es stop playing the disc and then stop again. The autoplay only works if a dvd was left playing when the unit was shut down.

At least that works for mine.

Small Update:

There is a little story to this update. Our cable internet and DirectTv main feed come into our Attic/Crawlspace in our 2 story home. We had to find a way to run 4 RG-6 cable runs from the attic across the whole house and down 3 floors to the theater. So conviently florida has the air exchangers for HVAC on each floor in a utility closet. My theater wall is right next to an air exchanger closet. So we were able to snake the RG-6 cables down through the Second floor utility closet to the first floor ceiling and snake it across to the theater rack. So that got done.

Now the tricky part.

My internet service is ran by cable and I have my office set up in my guest house with internet that is partially attached to the main house. I have my modem/router in the guest house. The Router I have is a Wireless Mimo Technology Belkin. This does not reach to my theater to have wireless internet. Or at least it is not powerful enough. So I went and bought 2 other wireless routers. I got 2 from Netgear and 1 from Linksys. I even got matching technology PCI wireless Cards. Well after all that crap spending a day setting each One up, none of them reached as well. The range is about 80 feet and has to go from the guest house (through brick walls) to the main house theater (through brick walls and 2 layers of 5/8" drywall).

So after thinking a few days about how to get cable internet to my theater, the options were... 1) Move my office from the guest House to the Main House, 2) Add a second internet service to run another modem or 3) firnd a way to hard wire the router in my office to my theater. So I went with option 3. This option was real tricky because there is no crawl space or anyway to snake 125 feet of Cat5 from the theater to the main house. The other option would be to break up the ground andrun rated conduit etc underground or run a ugly conduit above ground in my court yard.

So here is what we realized. The Guest house is cooled from the Exchanger on the first floor of The main house. That means they ran Flex duct from the main house to the guest house to cool it. There is also a return for makeup air.

So what do you think we did?

So we decided to try to snake the wire through the return. We got some Plenum Rated Cat5 wire to snake through. First we tried to feed a snake through with a tennis ball at the end but that kept getting stuck at one point. I think we were hitting a exchange box somewhere in the middle. So we tried snaking in the opposite direction and it was the same thing. I was about to stick one of my 3 lb dogs in there with a string and see if they make it to the other side :D .

So now what? Well we did a trick that is done for other things. We took a trash bag and blew it halfway up with some air and attached a string to it. At the other end I hooked up a shop Vac to suck. Well before you knew it wallah, the bag and string came through! We will cut a Small hole at each end in the filter boxes to snake the cat5 through the walls and ceiling from there. I'm not gonna have Cat5 hanging out of the Vents :)

So now I have 4 RG-6 Runs and one Cat5 Run coming from the Attic to the theater. And I now have my Cat5 coming from my router in the guest house to the theater. I ran Cat5 from the attic just in case some future upgrade is needed. I will Be Using 1 RG-6 For Satellite (Direct TV), one for Digital cable, one possibly for OTA, and the 4th is for whatever may be needed in the future.

http://loutrixrecords.com/images/theater-pix/snake/DSC08619.jpg

http://loutrixrecords.com/images/theater-pix/snake/DSC08623.jpg

Rubin for wireless, the best in terms of distance and speed i have found is Buffallo Techs turbo G 125 series with AOSS Security, the routers are dirt cheap around 70.00 and the access cards to match are around 40.00.

I have used about every major brand of access point for clients and before this i used Proxim AP2000 series access points which have a few more features for corporate needs but do not have the same distance and speed capabilities out of the box and cost in the 500.00 range

Rubin for wireless, the best in terms of distance and speed i have found is Buffallo Techs turbo G 125 series with AOSS Security, the routers are dirt cheap around 70.00 and the access cards to match are around 40.00.

I have used about every major brand of access point for clients and before this i used Proxim AP2000 series access points which have a few more features for corporate needs but do not have the same distance and speed capabilities out of the box and cost in the 500.00 range

Thanks for that info! But I'm hard wired now and there is nothing beating that for speed :)

Ruben

We took a trash bag and blew it halfway up with some air and attached a string to it. At the other end I hooked up a shop Vac to suck well before you knew it wallah, the bag and string came through!

Now thats ingenious! Is there a problem or issue you cant figure out? :D

Ronnie

Ruben,
You continue to amaze me!

Ruben: Done your MENSA test yet?? :D You must qualify....

Man, what a great idea!! I will have to remember the garbage bag idea. I have 4" flexible ductwork all over this house. Now I will be able to get wires wherever I want!!

Thanks Ruben,

Joe

Ruben,

Very creative! Glad it worked out for you. For those that may use Linksys products, the make range extenders (scroll down some). (http://www.linksys.com/servlet/Satellite?c=L_Product_C1&childpagename=US%2FLayout&cid=1115416939789&pagename=Linksys%2FCommon%2FVisitorWrapper) I have a Linksys Wireless-G Range Expander (http://www.linksys.com/servlet/Satellite?c=L_Product_C2&childpagename=US%2FLayout&cid=1130267578138&pagename=Linksys%2FCommon%2FVisitorWrapper) that I added at the end of my wireless network and it works great. I'm able to surf the net from anywhere in the house now. When I need to work from the opposite side of the house, I just plug this device in a convenient outlet and I'm good to go. It's that simple, once it's initially set up.

Anyway, thought it may help someone out there.

Great job Ruben.

Bud

FYI, when I decieded that I could not live without high-speed internet access at home, I talked to my neighbor across the street. His father-in-law was living with them and was paying for cable service (TV) but was also paying for dial-up internet access. Well, they were paying for DirecTV service and cable internet. So, I convinced him that I could save them money and they could also help me out at the same time. So, I went out and bought a Linksys router/access point and helped him get the pre-wired cat-5 set up so he could hook his father-in-laws computer up to the router as well as their desktop computer to it in another room. I also bought them a laptop card so they could use that. I then went and got a card for my computer and then got a 6db gain antenna on the end of a coax cable.
They have their access point in the front of their house and my compter is in the back of my house, but with that antenna, I am able to connect at anywhere from 18-36mb/s.

I have been doing this for about 2 years now and they are still saving money, since they don't have to pay for dial-up as well and they can use their laptop anywhere, so we are both happy.

Maybe I missed it, but how does that help you?

Thanks to all for the info on the 777 mega changer!

Ruben - pretty ingeneous solution regarding the routing of the CAT-5 wire. But, if I were you, I'd avoid mentioning it to the building inspector. Even though you used plenum-rated CAT-5, the "normal" intention of use for that cabling is above drop-ceilings in commercial spaces in which the entire area above the drop-ceiling is used as a cold-air return. Some municipalities specifically prohibit the use of residential ductwork as cable chases regardless of the rating of the cable used.

Personally, I don't see any issue in what you did - but, I'm not the AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction)...

Dwight

Yeah, thanks from me too. I think I'll stick with my Pioneer Elite changer. It doesn't have that "feature" and the interface for choosing discs is very intuitive.

(plus, its black).

A buddy of mine down the road had a T1 into his place for some hosting and we were going to link up to his connection wirelessly. We got an add on high gain antenna online for about $80 hooked it up to a standard linksys access point and were surfing the web from a laptop with a usb wireless nic a half mile away.

We never got around to finishing up the perminenet connection that would have been closer to a mile, but it was a fun experiment!

Ruben,

Very creative! Glad it worked out for you. For those that may use Linksys products, the make range extenders (scroll down some). (http://www.linksys.com/servlet/Satellite?c=L_Product_C1&childpagename=US%2FLayout&cid=1115416939789&pagename=Linksys%2FCommon%2FVisitorWrapper) I have a Linksys Wireless-G Range Expander (http://www.linksys.com/servlet/Satellite?c=L_Product_C2&childpagename=US%2FLayout&cid=1130267578138&pagename=Linksys%2FCommon%2FVisitorWrapper) that I added at the end of my wireless network and it works great. I'm able to surf the net from anywhere in the house now. When I need to work from the opposite side of the house, I just plug this device in a convenient outlet and I'm good to go. It's that simple, once it's initially set up.

Anyway, thought it may help someone out there.

Great job Ruben.

Bud

Awesome idea, Ruben. Curious if the guest house is anywhere near your coax drop, so you could run the Cat-5 with it (and then to the guest house)? Obviously it's moot now... I agree that wireless vs wired doesn't compare in terms of speed (between computers in the same house.. Scott's use of it to connect to the Internet is plenty for that situation).

And now for a completely unrelated question... :D For your light trays/soffit veneering, you said that you wrapped the veneer around the rounded edge for at least the two sides and back (which makes sense). However, what did you do for the front? Use two pieces? How do the corner edges match up as far as looks (compared with the side soffit corners)? I apologize if you mentioned this somewhere, but I couldn't find it... Here's the link (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6709871&&#post6709871) to your light tray/soffit building post.

SandmanX - your solutions to problems are truely ingenius. You should open a HT problem solving hotline.

EBR,

What don't you like about the 777ES that you do like about the Pioneer Elite. Doesn't the Elite suffer from Chromo bug?

Thanks,

J-dubb

Not to take sandman's thread too far off track, but I don't like that automatically play a disc thing when I turn the unit on. It could be gotten around, I know, but still would annoy me. Also, I don't like the silver- everything in my rack is black and the face of the equipment is in the room. Finally, somone mentioned the interface being "goofy".

Truthfully, I was looking for an excuse to "upgrade" to the new changer and these issues just don't give me that excuse :). I like having the changer and will keep it for my kids movies and some old favs, but I will likely be getting a new single disc player for my critical viewing (oppo or new hd-dvd/bd player) because the six year old Pio probably is not going to do justice to my new Ruby.

Thanks EBR, we weren't going to far off track, atleast we were talking about components SandmanX has:).

SandmanX - Thanks for letting us hijack your thread for our own benefit, well atleast we are adding to your post total - trying to get you the record:).

J-dubb

I finally watched a whole movie in the Theater Last Night because my my friend wanted to see that Johnny Cash Movie "Walk the Line".

I used the Sony Jukebox to play the movie and throughout the movie I noticed a wierd macroblocking (I think) problem happening between scene changes. It would happen on some changes and not on others. Only way I can describe it is, it is horizontal lines that pop up for a couple milliseconds on a edit of the movie (or scene change).

Any case, I didn't like what I saw it reminded me of a cheap DVD player. I will watch another flick in there today maybe to see if it just wasn't the DVD.

Ruben

OH NO!!!, not good if you have 3 of these things. I am not sure if this is MB that you are seeing, but I thought I read that the Sony did not have this issue.

Both of us might be interested in EBR's take on this since he has the other Mega Changer that we would probably consider.

J-dubb

all i can say is a high gain directonal antena. that is what i did exept not dorectonal

Also, I don't like the silver- everything in my rack is black and the face of the equipment is in the room.

You could get the face plate black anodized by a machine shop. :D

I finally watched a whole movie in the Theater Last Night because my my friend wanted to see that Johnny Cash Movie "Walk the Line".



I know its probably a great movie, but that was your first movie in your HT???

I know its probably a great movie, but that was your first movie in your HT???

Well I guess I could say so. Even though I was watching it with the Sound Muffled behind a dirty Drop Cloth for a Screen. But I wish I could say I saw a better movie for my first flick. Also, I was in and out of the theater as it was playing, as I saw it the night before and it's one of those movies you only watch once.

Ruben

Ruben, man what are you doing up so early?

My 777 has never shown any signs of macroblocking. I haven't watched that particular movie on it yet, so maybe it's an issue with that movie, and not the player.

Ruben, you can declare the official movie opening at whatever point you want.. :) So you can put a qualifier on that "first movie" statement if you want, and save the official first movie for something else if you so desire.. ;)

We will consider that movie as a test run and de-bugging movie if you wish. Heck, your real screen was not even up.

J-dubb

Ruben, you can declare the official movie opening at whatever point you want.. :) So you can put a qualifier on that "first movie" statement if you want, and save the official first movie for something else if you so desire.. ;)

Thank GOD. I didn't want that movie to be the opener. Pheww!

I need your help here guys. There is a drop of 6.5" from my regular floor in my home to my theater floor. What should I do with this Drop? Should I ramp it down to the theater door or just leave a step there? See the picture below.

Also if any creative guys have some creative ideas for a marquee entrance, feel free to chime in.

Thanks for your help,
Ruben

http://loutrixrecords.com/images/theater-pix/DSC08586.jpg

Ruben, First off I must say what a room you have there, and thank you for sharing it with us. Because of you (THANK YOU!) and seeing the pictures my soon to be wife has let me double the budget on our HT!! A few weeks before my join date I was searching the web for a star ceiling set up and found your post, and have been a big fan since, I check in almost daily lol. Anyway I wanted to thank you, but didn't want to clutter up your thread, but I think it won't hurt now :)

We will be pouring our walkout basement in April and once it's framed above and the floor is poured I will be starting our HT while my framing crew is finishing up the rest, I'm a contractor, and I take pride in my finish work, I can't wait to get started, and I hope that my room will hold a flicker of light compared to yours, tho my budget isn't anywhere near yours :) I hope you don't mind that I will be stealing ALOT of your info and ideas!! Anyway great job, I am sure you have inspired alot of people to step up the quality of their room.


Shawn

I would leave the step. What sort of flooring leads to the step? Is it tile?

Bud

I would leave the step. What sort of flooring leads to the step? Is it tile?

Bud

Thanks Bud, I was going to try to explain it, but a picture is worth a thousand words :) See below.

Thanks
Ruben

http://loutrixrecords.com/images/theater-pix/DSC08626.jpg

http://loutrixrecords.com/images/theater-pix/DSC08628.jpg

Ugh. Did you plan on covering the tile on the lower side with anything? Maybe a piece of your theater carpet? If it was straight across in front of the step, looks like you could have put a marble threshold in, but that's not the case, unfortunately. That little vertical bump out seems to be the issue. What is the drop from the top of the marble to to top of the rough step?

Bud

Ugh. Did you plan on covering the tile on the lower side with anything? Maybe a piece of your theater carpet? If it was straight across in front of the step, looks like you could have put a marble threshold in, but that's not the case, unfortunately. That little vertical bump out seems to be the issue. What is the drop from the top of the marble to to top of the rough step?

Bud

I can build the step out over to the wall on th right and Tile it to match the rest of my house floor add a bull nose or Something and carpet the Lower Part. Or Tile it all the same as the house or use a Black Tile there for the Marquee Entrance.

Thanks
Ruben

I think if you can contnue that part on the right, that'll give you a lot of options. Bull nose would work the best, IMO if you can fix that step. Even if you tile it the same as the other part of the upper floor, you still need to figure out how to end it at the step or overhang it with a bull nose. I think you've got the right idea.

Bud

I wanted to add, I am swapping that door out too. The Door that was originally to The garage is a Solid thick wood door that weighs like 100 Lbs. I didn't realize how heavy it was till we tore that wall down. The other door up now is an Exterior door from Home Depot.

Ruben

I think if you can contnue that part on the right, that'll give you a lot of options. Bull nose would work the best, IMO if you can fix that step. Even if you tile it the same as the other part of the upper floor, you still need to figure out how to end it at the step or overhang it with a bull nose. I think you've got the right idea.

Bud

Thanks Bud, thats what I was thinking as well. I will experiment around with it.

Ruben

I wanted to Add, the sound is Staying in the theater pretty good for not being sealed 100% yet. I was really concerned about this because out here in FL most of the homes are right next to each other (due to hurricane barriors I guess).

So basically my stage wall is against my neighbors yard and I like to watch Late night movies. I went Over to my neighbors yard to see if I can hear anything with some music playing pretty damn loud and all I heard was a slight faint Bass Thump from the Sub which is on the front Stage. I still need to Seal the theater Door for the room to be sealed 100%.

http://loutrixrecords.com/images/theater-pix/new-house.jpg

Ruben,

How about a nice oak threashold? That's what I did in my home/carport/family room.

Ruben:

If you leave a little step be sure that you keep a fairly good color contrast between the top of the step and the lower part so that any of your guests will be sure to spot it.

As for a marque I'm working on a concept of a rounded marque with "floating" 1 inch thick metallic coated letters with halo back lit with led lighting. Mine will be over the concession stand/bar in the back of my room but the same would work for your area over the door.

Ruben,
I love, love, love, your theater. One question is that door your taking off is fire rated so is the new door also fire rated I dont know if it has to be because its not technically a garage anymore just thought I'd ask.
thanks Doug

How about this for the door...

You could do a couple more half round columns of a smaller diameter to match the ones in the theater. Then use those as the sides of the door casing and build a matching round marque to sit across the top of the doors and the columns. I suck at photoshop, but here is a pic.

I would just leave the step also.

What kind of theater is complete without a red carpet walkway going to the doors? (even if it's only 3' long)

Nelson

This is a tough one Ruben. After seeing the pics of what you have, I would say that you don't want to add too much wood, unless there is wood somewhere else close to the opening. If not, then keep the marble floor style and maybe do like others said and do a different color marble on the step-down area with a bull-nose to finish it off.

As for the marquee, I really don't have a whole lot of ideas simply because I don't know how much you want it to stand out and be different from the rest of that portion of the house. Yes, it is a theater, but it looks like the only thing that it shares with the rest of the house is the overall red theme. Is there wood and dark colors near that door? Maybe some pics a little further back showing more of the opening?

For a marquee, how about a built in plasma sitting above the door that shows welcome messages, trailers, now showing, etc.

Joe

For a marquee, how about a built in plasma sitting above the door that shows welcome messages, trailers, now showing, etc.

Joe

Boy, we've all gotten pretty comfortable spending Sandman's money, huh...? ;)

I been spending the weekend trying to set up Sage TV on the HTPC. I'm starting to think having an HT PC is Going to be a HT PITA. The Sage TV only work on low Resolution. I tried switching to nvidia decoders and that was the only thing that worked on low res (forget basic resolution). The Picture looks Horrible on my 7" TFT like the attenna needs to be adjusted. I don't know what else to try or Say. People on the Sage Forums are having the Same issues with no resolution. I may just go get a DVR for DirectTv instead.

I will try BeyondTv and se if I have any luck with that.

Ruben

I been spending the weekend trying to set up Sage TV on the HTPC. I'm starting to think having an HT PC is Going to be a HT PITA. The Sage TV only work on low Resolution. I tried switching to nvidia decoders and that was the only thing that worked on low res (forget basic resolution). The Picture looks Horrible on my 7" TFT like the attenna needs to be adjusted. I don't know what else to try or Say. People on the Sage Forums are having the Same issues with no resolution. I may just go get a DVR for DirectTv instead.

I will try BeyondTv and se if I have any luck with that.

Ruben

I have been playing around with SnapStream. It only seems to work on high res. It may be what you are looking for. I was bummed cause I could not get it to work with terminal services. Gave up for a while but will get back to it. I began working on a plugin for cinemar and my Denon.

Joe

First off I want to congratulate Ruben on a great looking theatre and very informative and interesting thread (yes I’ve been following since the beginning).

Anyway, just thought I’d add my 2 cents on what to do for your “lobby”. The basic idea would be the same as mmmkam suggested and I just expanded upon it. First, the columns could be similar to the ones in the theatre but without the cloth portion used to hide the speakers. Also I think your veneer would look good stained black to contrast the reddish interior ones. Even though someone mentioned having too much wood, I don’t think you’re anywhere near that point and you do such a wonderful job of veneering it would be a shame not to showcase your talents even more.

The round marquis that the columns would be holding up would be done in the same veneer/black stain. Under the marquis you could have small can lights shining down on the columns and door (or just on the columns). And you could cut out the lettering for whatever you choose to name your theatre in the front of the marquis and light it from the back with some nice red lighting. I borrowed the name from a suggestion Svonhof made since I think it’s the perfect name for this red and black themed theatre and a great inside joke for any movie buff (I made the jpg before checking the spelling which is why redrum is two words).

For the door I’ve always thought that it’s hard to beat a padded leather door for an elegant look, which I would do in a dark red to match the red in the theatre.

I think TheSpoon’s idea of red carpeting is great and would try to match it’s colour to the door. I would also use a half round piece of the carpet from your theatre and use that to mirror the curve of the marquis above the door to help transition into the theatre and break up the red carpet at the door (hard to explain see picture).

I don’t know if the closet on the left and on the right are structural or needed in any way but I would get rid of them altogether and open up the space. If you can’t (or don’t want to) get rid of them then maybe you could use one of the closets to your advantage and make a false ticket booth (see second picture).

Don’t know what color I would paint the walls though? Black, too dark. Red, too much. A paint job to match the interior fabric walls perhaps?

Whatever you end up doing I’m sure it will be great since everything else has been so far…

Sandman - if you want DVR functionality, I strongly suggest you get a real DVR. The interfaces and functionality are better and there is no "gatesware" to screw you.

That is what where hear for.

Sandman - if you want DVR functionality, I strongly suggest you get a real DVR. The interfaces and functionality are better and there is no "gatesware" to screw you.

ROFL at my own stupidity. I actually was doing a google on "real DVR" looking for the software until it hit me. :eek:

Joe

LOL.

I almost said TiVo because I am way biased towards their interface, but I generalized to give the newer ones (that I haven't seen) the benefit of the doubt.

I have been playing around with SnapStream. It only seems to work on high res. It may be what you are looking for. I was bummed cause I could not get it to work with terminal services. Gave up for a while but will get back to it. I began working on a plugin for cinemar and my Denon.

Joe

It Seems like Live TV on the HTPC looks pretty Bad. I had the best quality and most channels using Windows Media Center 2005 to play Live TV. I'm using the Haupauge PVR-500MCE Video Card. I tried Beyond TV and I was only getting 9 channels and the Quality looked like crap too.

Then again, maybe its the cable signal to my house? After all, I only been watching DirectTv on a 62" DLP

I am thinking about picking up THIS (http://www.directtv.com/DTVAPP/imagine/TIVO.jsp) Have any of you guys tried it yet? I wonder if I can upgrade the hard drive myself or hook up a Firewire/USB drive to it.

Ruben

Sandman, of course if you want the ultimate control you could go the open source route and use MythTV http://www.mythtv.org/ .

Drew

First off I want to congratulate Ruben on a great looking theatre and very informative and interesting thread (yes I’ve been following since the beginning).

Anyway, just thought I’d add my 2 cents on what to do for your “lobby”. The basic idea would be the same as mmmkam suggested and I just expanded upon it. First, the columns could be similar to the ones in the theatre but without the cloth portion used to hide the speakers. Also I think your veneer would look good stained black to contrast the reddish interior ones. Even though someone mentioned having too much wood, I don’t think you’re anywhere near that point and you do such a wonderful job of veneering it would be a shame not to showcase your talents even more.

The round marquis that the columns would be holding up would be done in the same veneer/black stain. Under the marquis you could have small can lights shining down on the columns and door (or just on the columns). And you could cut out the lettering for whatever you choose to name your theatre in the front of the marquis and light it from the back with some nice red lighting. I borrowed the name from a suggestion Svonhof made since I think it’s the perfect name for this red and black themed theatre and a great inside joke for any movie buff (I made the jpg before checking the spelling which is why redrum is two words).

For the door I’ve always thought that it’s hard to beat a padded leather door for an elegant look, which I would do in a dark red to match the red in the theatre.

I think TheSpoon’s idea of red carpeting is great and would try to match it’s colour to the door. I would also use a half round piece of the carpet from your theatre and use that to mirror the curve of the marquis above the door to help transition into the theatre and break up the red carpet at the door (hard to explain see picture).

I don’t know if the closet on the left and on the right are structural or needed in any way but I would get rid of them altogether and open up the space. If you can’t (or don’t want to) get rid of them then maybe you could use one of the closets to your advantage and make a false ticket booth (see second picture).

Don’t know what color I would paint the walls though? Black, too dark. Red, too much. A paint job to match the interior fabric walls perhaps?

Whatever you end up doing I’m sure it will be great since everything else has been so far…

Thanks Mojo, that looks like a cool idea. I was thinking something along those lines. Thanks for taking the time to draw that out. I know up top will ba a half round Marquee. I like what BigmouthinCD is talking about doing. I Love steel Letters and glowing lights :)

Ruben,

After suffering w/dial-up internet for years, I finally got satellite access yesterday and was able to skim thru all 56 pages of this thread (w/dial-up, each page would take 10-15 min. to load...).

Let me first add to the chorus of accolades: the design, style, implementation, workmanship, and fit and finish of your theater is outstanding. I'm truly awed that you were able to do much/most of this yourself -- you are the patron saint of Do-It-Yourself-ers, and an inspiration to us wannabes :)

And also, THANK YOU for taking all the additional time and trouble to make the excellent, detailed, step-by-step photo log -- invaluable for understanding exactly how you did things, and giving ideas on how to modify/improve our own designs!

2 questions:

1) for the angled fabric seams under the soffits, you show in post #562 stapling the right side:
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e175/circa1720/post562.jpg

but how did you get the left angled seam attached and tight (post #568)?
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e175/circa1720/post568.jpg

2) did you do any first-hand testing of the acoustical transparency of the screen fabrics you're considering (such as firing up your speakers and doing an A/B test of how they sound with and without the screen fabric in front of them)? If you did, could you say how and what the difference(s) were?

Thanks.

Ruben,

I have been following your work for a few months now, and I must say that you have inspired me to turn my garage into a media room. I have talked about doing it for 2 years and finally did it, I on the other hand contracted most of it out and my family and I are very proud of the result. But I credit it to you on making this happen.

Rgds,

DeMarco

Hey Guys,

Is there any reason why I would get WB pretty clear but get CBS completely distorted in Windows Media Center 2005? I found 3 really clear channels then they go downhill from there. MTV is really Bad. Is it the Cable companies fault? I was thinking maybe I have a bad Splitter but a couple channels are very clear.

Thanks
Ruben

Ruben,

After suffering w/dial-up internet for years, I finally got satellite access yesterday and was able to skim thru all 56 pages of this thread (w/dial-up, each page would take 10-15 min. to load...).

Let me first add to the chorus of accolades: the design, style, implementation, workmanship, and fit and finish of your theater is outstanding. I'm truly awed that you were able to do much/most of this yourself -- you are the patron saint of Do-It-Yourself-ers, and an inspiration to us wannabes :)

And also, THANK YOU for taking all the additional time and trouble to make the excellent, detailed, step-by-step photo log -- invaluable for understanding exactly how you did things, and giving ideas on how to modify/improve our own designs!

2 questions:

1) for the angled fabric seams under the soffits, you show in post #562 stapling the right side:
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e175/circa1720/post562.jpg

but how did you get the left angled seam attached and tight (post #568)?
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e175/circa1720/post568.jpg

2) did you do any first-hand testing of the acoustical transparency of the screen fabrics you're considering (such as firing up your speakers and doing an A/B test of how they sound with and without the screen fabric in front of them)? If you did, could you say how and what the difference(s) were?

Thanks.

Thanks for all your kind words :)

The best way to do that is to build your frame first and make sure it's a tight fit (we used 2" x 2"s for the frame). Then staple the fabric to the 2 angled ends and the front but leave the side against the wall unstapled. Liquid nail the back side of the fabric covered frame and snug it up in place. With a small brad nailer, reach inside the unstapled fabric side and nail the frame in place, then finish stapling.

Or you can do it the easy way. Just build your frame (make sure it fits it snug), spray 3M glue on the ends and staple one side first to hide the staples. Get your frame up and use a putty knife to work the fabric inside the ends.

Ruben

Great thread! It took me quite a while to get to the end of it, but it was a great read. I have a question about how you mounted your acoustic panels. You said that you used industrial velcro. How did you attach the velcro to the walls? Are you worried that if you had to replace a panel that it would separate from the walls?

Sandman, if you want a DirecTV DVR, you need this (http://www.directtv.com/DTVAPP/imagine/HDDVR.jsp) one.

I have used it since it was released. Works flawlessly.

It Seems like Live TV on the HTPC looks pretty Bad. I had the best quality and most channels using Windows Media Center 2005 to play Live TV. I'm using the Haupauge PVR-500MCE Video Card. I tried Beyond TV and I was only getting 9 channels and the Quality looked like crap too.

Then again, maybe its the cable signal to my house? After all, I only been watching DirectTv on a 62" DLP

OK comparing DirectTV to analog cable? Not really a fair comparison :)

I bet it is the analog artifacts that you are disliking. Try connecting your directtv output to the video in on your card and see what happens. That would be a better way to test the quality of it.

Joe

Hey Guys,

Is there any reason why I would get WB pretty clear but get CBS completely distorted in Windows Media Center 2005? I found 3 really clear channels then they go downhill from there. MTV is really Bad. Is it the Cable companies fault? I was thinking maybe I have a bad Splitter but a couple channels are very clear.

Thanks
Ruben

Again, I am assuming that you are using analog cable and don't have a digital box you are running it through. Yes, analog can degrade tremendously across the different frequencies. Also, if you have some really old splitters in the house, or some open cable ends where foreign signals can enter the signals can also be degraded.

Joe

Sandman, if you want a DirecTV DVR, you need this (http://www.directtv.com/DTVAPP/imagine/HDDVR.jsp) one.

I have used it since it was released. Works flawlessly.

Kinda funny, they show the TIVO logo. I didn't think DirecTV was doing TIVO anymore, since they are doing their own software now.

I think the HD one is still the HR10-250 which is a TiVo box. At least, that's what I thought and that's what I have (I love the TiVo interface). They have changed out their standard ones I think but I don't think the HD ones will switch out until the mpeg4 stuff is up and going.

In any case the HR10-250 can still be bought at consumer outlets and it works well (and can be upgraded).

Ruben,
I've read through all the postings, great job on a great project. I just started the HT hobby, and I'm learning tons of info. You stated earlier that your next project will be a 1000 gallon salt water tank. I was into the salt water hobby until I moved into a new house and had no place to put my tank. With your attention to detail your tank should turn out great. If I didn't had to send my boys to college and pay child support I would have the HT and fish tank.

What gets me with DirecTV (and a reason I'm using cable) is the up front costs. It seems that an HD DVR is $400 initially. I have no initial cost with my Comcast HD DVR and it's $10/month ($5/month more than just HD).

What gets me with DirecTV (and a reason I'm using cable) is the up front costs. It seems that an HD DVR is $400 initially. I have no initial cost with my Comcast HD DVR and it's $10/month ($5/month more than just HD).

Wow, thanks!! I just called Comcast and will switch out my HD receiver for the HD DVR/Receiver. And at only $4.99 more a month. Sweet!!!

Joe

No problem, Joe. I was amazed and excited when I learned about this as well (from the Twin Cities thread in the HDTV Programming forum). I actually had purchased a MyHD MDP-130 card to use in a PC as an HD DVR, but once I found out about this deal, I just sold it (at a bit of a loss of course, but worth it anyway).

Ruben, your home theater is looking awesome. :)

About the Cat5 wires in the duct work, a friend of mine did the exact same thing (of course it was not as ingenious as yours) and one of the hot water pipes apparently was close enough to the HVAC ducts that it melted a little bit of the insulation. It took us 2 weeks to figure out why his internet connection was intermittent. We then took out all the CAt5 lines and cut out the dry wall in his living room at the base boards and close to the ceiling below in his office. We drilled a hole in the subfloor between joists and fed the lines and repatched the drywalls. We fed two cat5 lines everywhere in case we wanted to extend Firewire, DVI, or HDMI signal using the GEFEN extenders. The work sucked but the result looks OK. What is your thought?

On the disc changer subject. Why not either have all the DVDs ripped on hard drives or use the multichanger entirely. If you have both wouldn't it be confusing, for example if you wanted to watch a DVD with the 777 first you'd have to remember its on the 777 and not the HTPC then change the input of your receiver, look at the menu of the 777 to find the title and then play it. Is there an advantage in having both systems with DVDs split between the two?

Thanks

Mehran

Try connecting your directtv output to the video in on your card and see what happens. That would be a better way to test the quality of it.
Joe

You can Do that? I thought you need the little credit card that direct tv gives you in the box to get service.

Ruben

Mehran,

John/jrfuda gives a good explanation of why he uses both, in this thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6993292&&#post6993292). I know it may not be Ruben's reason as well, but it could be.

You can Do that? I thought you need the little credit card that direct tv gives you in the box to get service.

Ruben

lol, yes, you do need the card. I meant to take the video "out" from your directtv box (with the card in it) and put it into the video 'in' on your PC card. (I am assuming that the PC card you have has a video "in".

Joe

Wow, thanks!! I just called Comcast and will switch out my HD receiver for the HD DVR/Receiver. And at only $4.99 more a month. Sweet!!!

Joe

FYI, a buddy of mine got one of the new Comcast HD-DVR boxes about two months ago and got a nice Dolby Digital signal. I went over there a few days later and he could not get a Dolby Digital signal. He fussed with it for quite a while and finally called them. They didn't know why it didn't work, and said he could come in and get another one.
He ended up seeing a friend who was working for Comcast and asked him to which he was told that is a known bug with that model receiver and that they didn't have a fix for it yet.

What he does is every week, he has to un-plug it and let it sit for a few minutes. Then, he plugs it back in and it works fine.

lol, yes, you do need the card. I meant to take the video "out" from your directtv box (with the card in it) and put it into the video 'in' on your PC card. (I am assuming that the PC card you have has a video "in".

Joe

So what would be the point of that when I can just go direct from my Sat box to my DVI switcher?

FYI, a buddy of mine got one of the new Comcast HD-DVR boxes about two months ago and got a nice Dolby Digital signal. I went over there a few days later and he could not get a Dolby Digital signal. He fussed with it for quite a while and finally called them. They didn't know why it didn't work, and said he could come in and get another one.
He ended up seeing a friend who was working for Comcast and asked him to which he was told that is a known bug with that model receiver and that they didn't have a fix for it yet.

What he does is every week, he has to un-plug it and let it sit for a few minutes. Then, he plugs it back in and it works fine.

Just another example of why I don't have cable... :D

So what would be the point of that when I can just go direct from my Sat box to my DVI switcher?

Well, first off I didn't know you had a dvi switcher. :) Second I thought you were just testing the htPC to make sure you could get the signal quality you were looking for.

Maybe I misunderstood what it was you were trying to do? I was thinking that you were frustrated with the analog cable signal when comparing it to the DirectTV signal and that you were wondering if the whole htPC was a good idea or not because of it.

So I was coming from the viewpoint of testing the htPC to ensure you could get a good quality signal through it and then tracing the bad signal to its source.

Am I even in the same boat?

Joe

Thanks for the clarification Tim.

By the way I have two Comcast digital HD cable box/DVRs. Both are dual tuners (you can record 2 digital channels while watching a third). One is older (DVI output), and the other 2 weeks old (HDMI output). I can transfer HD content from premium channels (ex. HBOHD, CINEMAXHD, etc..) via Firewire to my mac (as VIDEO_TS, or VIDEO_VOB files) and store/stream them later (1080i) via firewire to SXRD HDTV. The SPDIF/optical output is decoded by a DENON receiver and I haven't noticed any problems (that I can hear).

My two cents: I would favor the cable box.

Mehran

I been spending the weekend trying to set up Sage TV on the HTPC. I'm starting to think having an HT PC is Going to be a HT PITA. The Sage TV only work on low Resolution. I tried switching to nvidia decoders and that was the only thing that worked on low res (forget basic resolution). The Picture looks Horrible on my 7" TFT like the attenna needs to be adjusted. I don't know what else to try or Say. People on the Sage Forums are having the Same issues with no resolution. I may just go get a DVR for DirectTv instead.

I will try BeyondTv and se if I have any luck with that.

Ruben

Did you try the NVIDIA PureVideo Decoder. Your card supports it, but you need to use a decoder that exploits it, otherwise it doesn't do anything, witch might be the case here. I don't know why they just don't include this with the software bundle, but I guess it makes them more $$$ Here is a link to the trial:
http://www.nvidia.com/object/dvd_decoder_1.02-196-trial.html

My buddy is using the PureVideo decoder and he said the TV output from his HTPC is BETTER than if he connects the COAX directly to his TV. He said it removes a lot of the analog artifacts that spill over from other frequencies. Worth a shot!

Did you try the NVIDIA PureVideo Decoder. Your card supports it, but you need to use a decoder that exploits it, otherwise it doesn't do anything, witch might be the case here. I don't know why they just don't include this with the software bundle, but I guess it makes them more $$$ Here is a link to the trial:
http://www.nvidia.com/object/dvd_decoder_1.02-196-trial.html

My buddy is using the PureVideo decoder and he said the TV output from his HTPC is BETTER than if he connects the COAX directly to his TV. He said it removes a lot of the analog artifacts that spill over from other frequencies. Worth a shot!

Yeah I tried Pure Video, I had the Trial version for a few Days now. One thing I noticed is the Video playback of VOB Files looks much better in TheaterTek than in WMC 2005.
The VOB/DVD video looks a bit wavey in WMC. Much respect goes out to TheaterTek and ffdshow for creating awesome programs with awesome video quality!

Yeah I tried Pure Video, I had the Trial version for a few Days now. One thing I noticed is the Video playback of VOB Files looks much better in TheaterTek than in WMC 2005.
The VOB/DVD video looks a bit wavey in WMC. Much respect goes out to TheaterTek and ffdshow for creating awesome programs with awesome video quality!

And with the htPC that you built I don't think you need to worry about processor overhead. Which is the main advantage with Pure Video. I am using a Athlon 64 4200+ with SATA drives and have never noticed any degredation due to the speed of the computer.

Joe

Ruben, your home theater is looking awesome. :)
On the disc changer subject. Why not either have all the DVDs ripped on hard drives or use the multichanger entirely. If you have both wouldn't it be confusing, for example if you wanted to watch a DVD with the 777 first you'd have to remember its on the 777 and not the HTPC then change the input of your receiver, look at the menu of the 777 to find the title and then play it. Is there an advantage in having both systems with DVDs split between the two?

Thanks

Mehran
Just to chime in here. I actually do both the changers and hd storage for my dvd's and it's worked perfectly for years now. I started with the sony changer and loved using it, but really hated it's menu system. Seriously, who wants to fire up a system for friends and have them see that menu as their first impression LOL.

Then I stumbled across a program by cinemaronline called dvdlobby and my life changed for the better. Basically it's a 100% modifiable frontend gui so you can design to your hearts content or just use their own, which are very nice. It can also control multiple changers.

Their setup is simple.
Open the program and type in your dvd title or bar code#.
An internet search is then done which grabs all info and coverart.
Tell the program what changer it's in and the disk#
If it's hd based, simply input the path to your dvd folder where you saved it.
You can also input 'trailer' urls on a per dvd basis. Trialers can either be on your htpc, in a changer, or in another dvd player.

The problem you describe of remembering where the movie is becomes mute. You don't have to know anything. Simply click around their thumbnail menu, title menu, search menu, etc... and everything fires up. (think generic kaleidescape)

This software combination not only manages your dvd's, it also can control your equipment via rf, ir, serial, etc...

I've programed a number of macros so that it only takes 1 button to fire everything up, and another to choose what I want to watch. Very kewl!

As to playback from the pc, I use theatertek as it seems to look the best, and without a doubt makes my denon 3910 look like a toy. We can thank pc post-processing for that, though it does take a very fast machine. Sandmans' is more than fast enough. Properly setup, his pc should rival just about any dvd player on the market <$3k.

Since the pc looks so good, I pretty much store all my new dvd's online, and move them to the changer at a later time. I keep my best movies online, the ones I watch over and over again. I now use my 3910 only for music now.

Just to chime in here. I actually do both the changers and hd storage for my dvd's and it's worked perfectly for years now. I started with the sony changer and loved using it, but really hated it's menu system. Seriously, who wants to fire up a system for friends and have them see that menu as their first impression LOL.

Then I stumbled across a program by cinemaronline called dvdlobby and my life changed for the better. Basically it's a 100% modifiable frontend gui so you can design to your hearts content or just use their own, which are very nice. It can also control multiple changers.

Their setup is simple.
Open the program and type in your dvd title or bar code#.
An internet search is then done which grabs all info and coverart.
Tell the program what changer it's in and the disk#
If it's hd based, simply input the path to your dvd folder where you saved it.
You can also input 'trailer' urls on a per dvd basis. Trialers can either be on your htpc, in a changer, or in another dvd player.

The problem you describe of remembering where the movie is becomes mute. You don't have to know anything. Simply click around their thumbnail menu, title menu, search menu, etc... and everything fires up. (think generic kaleidescape)

This software combination not only manages your dvd's, it also can control your equipment via rf, ir, serial, etc...

I've programed a number of macros so that it only takes 1 button to fire everything up, and another to choose what I want to watch. Very kewl!

As to playback from the pc, I use theatertek as it seems to look the best, and without a doubt makes my denon 3910 look like a toy. We can thank pc post-processing for that, though it does take a very fast machine. Sandmans' is more than fast enough. Properly setup, his pc should rival just about any dvd player on the market <$3k.

Since the pc looks so good, I pretty much store all my new dvd's online, and move them to the changer at a later time. I keep my best movies online, the ones I watch over and over again. I now use my 3910 only for music now.

Ruben has DVDLobby. I am a Cinemar product customer too. I don't think that Ruben has had much time to spend with MainLobby yet though. If he has he has not shared much of his experience with it.

Joe

Ruben has DVDLobby. I am a Cinemar product customer too. I don't think that Ruben has had much time to spend with MainLobby yet though. If he has he has not shared much of his experience with it.

Joe

Yeah I have the whole set up from Cinemar. I got DVD Lobby Pro, Main Lobby, Music Lobby and TV Lobby. Just haven't Started setting them up yet. I been busy trying to EQ my room and take readings.

Ruben

Thank you for your response Dreamhost.

Ruben would you mind sharing what equipment and method you are using to tune your room?

Thank you

Mehran

Hey SandmanX

Can you give a brief review of your HTPC case. I am interested in purchasing one and want to know about the display, construction, noise level, supplied fans and power block.
thax

Ruben,
I love, love, love, your theater.

Never mind the theater... I love the house!!



http://loutrixrecords.com/images/theater-pix/new-house.jpg




Craig

Hey SandmanX

Can you give a brief review of your HTPC case. I am interested in purchasing one and want to know about the display, construction, noise level, supplied fans and power block.
thax

http://htpcnews.com/main.php?id=x15

Hey SandmanX

Can you give a brief review of your HTPC case. I am interested in purchasing one and want to know about the display, construction, noise level, supplied fans and power block.
thax

Very Nice Case. It also has a built in IR that works with Windows Media Center 2005 which I wasn't aware of. I went out and bought the WMC 2005 Remote and Receiver put the batteries in the remote and forgot to hook up the MCE IR receiver and was using the remote without the it. I didn't realize till later that the receiver was still in the box :)

The case is very nicely built. The Fan on the bottom of the Case under the hard drives was a bit loud for me at 12volts so I cut it down to 6 volts and that made the case pretty much dead quiet (quieter than my Sony Vaio which is extremely quiet).

The Zalman fan is the only thing I can hear lately, I have it running on full power because I recently reformatted the drive and forgot to install the speed controll drivers. I will get to that this weekend.

The only goofy thing about the case is the 7" TFT Monitor has to be hooked up outside the back of the case from one card to another. If they would of done that internally it would of been better. The built in 7" touch screen has come in handy several times already.

Not to mention the case is Soo cool looking that it got me laid 4 times this week already :D

Ruben

Not to mention the case is Soo cool looking that it got me laid 4 times this week already :D

Ruben

$hit, I've got to get in the game. With my 13 inch LCD monitor in my equipment stack I should be getting laid daily.

Not to mention the case is Soo cool looking that it got me laid 4 times this week already :D

Ruben


Wait, you are married right? Does your wife know about this?! :)

$hit, I've got to get in the game. With my 13 inch LCD monitor in my equipment stack I should be getting laid daily.


Bigmouth - no complaining from you. We've seen pictures... ;)

Wait, you are married right? Does your wife know about this?! :)


SSSShhhhhhhhh!!!

this whole s*** is f****** unbelievable, this is f****** great stuff,,,
i am all screwed up right now,,,, took an ambien last light to fall asleep, after which i checked this web site for new stuff like i always do before bed, next thing u know i found this thread and that's all she wrote ,, i was fighting the ambien all night,,, :eek:
went to bed 3 hours later but didn't finish the thread, just to wake up early to read it some more, my wife is pissed because i always complain that i don't get enough sleep,,,and now i don't want to sleep, glue to this thread,,,lol
love this stuff
thanks sandmanx and everyone else for your kind and helpful imputs to this thread,,.
sam :D :D :D

the thread should be renamed Sandmans War and Peace

Ruben...

Someone posted earlier about MythTV as a possible alternative for DVR.

I was in a book store today and happened on a copy of Linux Toys II.

(I'd post a link, but I've been lurking too much with not enough posts, and I'm still restricted... Amazon has it, though.)

It has a whole chapter on a step-by-step setup of MythTV, in case you're interested in giving it a try.

Chip

Ruben...

Someone posted earlier about MythTV as a possible alternative for DVR.

I was in a book store today and happened on a copy of Linux Toys II.

(I'd post a link, but I've been lurking too much with not enough posts, and I'm still restricted... Amazon has it, though.)

It has a whole chapter on a step-by-step setup of MythTV, in case you're interested in giving it a try.

Chip

Also, here is a video podcast type thing that explains the installation and stuff of mythtv. Its free so maybe you can have a look at this and see if it interests anyone. I'm sure there is a ton of info online since MythTV is open source and all. But its fun to watch people build a mythtv box on camera.

Guess a link would help :) Systm MythTV (http://revision3.com/systm/mythtv/)

Enjoy!

Robert

I wanted to Add, the sound is Staying in the theater pretty good for not being sealed 100% yet. I was really concerned about this because out here in FL most of the homes are right next to each other (due to hurricane barriors I guess).

So basically my stage wall is against my neighbors yard and I like to watch Late night movies. I went Over to my neighbors yard to see if I can hear anything with some music playing pretty damn loud and all I heard was a slight faint Bass Thump from the Sub which is on the front Stage. I still need to Seal the theater Door for the room to be sealed 100%.

http://loutrixrecords.com/images/theater-pix/new-house.jpg


Any fish in that lake?

The better question is "where's the boat?".

I know he has one. He lives in on the water in Florida.

I'm sure the problem is the aspect ratio of that picture. You see, if we could see the whole thing widescreen (as the director intended ;)) we would see the nice boat with the bikini-clad babe sunning on the foredeck...

I'm sure the problem is the aspect ratio of that picture. You see, if we could see the whole thing widescreen (as the director intended ;)) we would see the nice boat with the bikini-clad babe sunning on the foredeck...

I am guessing it is probably Jessica, like in his other photos. That is why he is intentionally only giving us only the 4x3 image so we don't get too far off topic like we did last time. :mad:

Joe

The built in 7" touch screen has come in handy several times already.

Not to mention the case is Soo cool looking that it got me laid 4 times this week already :D

Ruben


OK I've got this comment figured out. Sandman mounted the PC about waist level. He uses the old wanna come over and check out my home theater? line.

After she oos and ahs the woodwork Sandman pops in a Movie and says check this out. So the lady is bent over looking at the waist high image and ............the rest is history.

OK I've got this comment figured out. Sandman mounted the PC about waist level. He uses the old wanna come over and check out my home theater? line.

After she oos and ahs the woodwork Sandman pops in a Movie and says check this out. So the lady is bent over looking at the waist high image and ............the rest is history.

LOL, thats almost as good as the Popcorn bag on the lap with the hole on the bottom of it :D

LOL, thats almost as good as the Popcorn bag on the lap with the hole on the bottom of it :D

Ooh. Great movie reference. One of my all time favorite movies too...

If anyone here is using the fabricmate system for their walls, I have 30 feet of track that I ordered and never used. If you need it, PM me.

I have 20 feet (4 five foot tracks) of the black track (the FS-150) in the picture below and 10 Feet (2 five foot tracks) of the white track below (the FS-250).

I didn't go this route because I wanted my whole panels to be removable.

Here is a Link to the specs of the tracks
http://www.fabricmate.com/inchedgepros.htm

Thanks, Ruben

http://loutrixrecords.com/images/theater-pix/DSC08732.jpg

Ruben, before you get rid of the Fabricmate track can you see how well it holds the Sheerweave and Dazian CCC materials? I was thinking of attaching some of the 1/2-inch track to the back of my screen frame so I could easily swap different screen materials.

--Dan

Ruben, before you get rid of the Fabricmate track can you see how well it holds the Sheerweave and Dazian CCC materials? I was thinking of attaching some of the 1/2-inch track to the back of my screen frame so I could easily swap different screen materials.

--Dan

It works well with everything I tried.

Ruben

I did some more research on the Sheerweave 2000 vs 4000.
Sandman, the moire is pattern is very specific to the source and the orientation and the distance, so do not dismiss a material because it showed moire in one environment. Also the color shift will vary between different shades you chose. I chose the P05 Platinum/White combo since my room did not have enough light control.

I found a site with comparison of the two materials:
Sheerweave 4000 (http://www.romanzia.com/Fabrics/SW-4000.html)
Sheerweave 2000 (http://www.romanzia.com/Fabrics/SW-2000.html)

I have extracted some technical info
Sheerweave 2K Sheerweave 4K
Mesh (Ends/in.) | 45*Warp, 45*Fill | 36*Warp, 30*Fill
Mesh Weight | 14.26 (oz./sq.yd.) | 19.2 (oz./sq.yd.)
Yarn Diameter (in.) | 0.013*Warp, 0.013*Fill | 0.020*Warp, 0.020*Fill
Fabric Thickness (in.) | 0.019 | 0.036
Openness Factor | Approximately 5% | Approximately 5%
UV Blockage | Approximately 95% | Approximately 95%
Breaking Strength (lbs./in.) | 224*Warp, 200*Fill | 315*Warp, 260*Fill
Stiffness (Mg.) | 137*Warp, 171*Fill | 600*Warp, 400*Fill
(

The 2000 has a higher density of holes and it is symmetric in both directions.
It uses a thinner thread and is significantly lighter. The lightness becomes more important if you are going to mount it on a roller (as I did). The 4000 is stiffer and stronger so it is better for a fixed screen.

From an acoustic point of view, shouldn't 2000 with more number of smaller holes be better?

Which color are you using in your tests?

BayAreaFan:
Could you repost that into: Sandmans Open Weave Vinyl Screen Project begins! (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=640385) thread? It looks to me like the sort of useful information that belongs there.

The 2000 P02 - White "Image of Fabric" at your link (http://www.romanzia.com/Fabrics/SW-2000.html) looks a lot like the new weave (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7270501&&#post7270501) Sandman is trying.


Since this stuff is fire rated, and comes quite wide, I wonder if the "2000 V22 - Charcoal / Gray" could be used instead of GoM on walls.

BayAreaFan:
Since this stuff is fire rated, and comes quite wide, I wonder if the "2000 V22 - Charcoal / Gray" could be used instead of GoM on walls.

You wouldn't want to use it as GoM. It's too thick to fold and work with plus its more than twice the price of GoM per yard. Plus its reflective because it's vinyl.

Ruben

Sandman we all waiting for new pictures of your fabulous homecinema.. c'mon :cool:

Sandman we all waiting for new pictures of your fabulous homecinema.. c'mon :cool:

New pictures coming soon!

Ruben

What is the width of the door to your theater?
Was it wide enough for you to move your seats through?

Great looking theater!
George

I would assume that it was since the seats are in there... :)

Hi
Sandman

Can you tell me where to buy the Screen material that what you used for your screen. Can you send me a link if you have tutorial for 'how to build a screen'



Ty
JKDON

Hi
Sandman

Can you tell me where to buy the Screen material that what you used for your screen. Can you send me a link if you have tutorial for 'how to build a screen'



Ty
JKDON


Just follow THIS THREAD (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7134030&&#post7134030)

Phew! Finally caught up reading this thread. Great work by the way. Certainly looking forward to seeing the end product, as its given me heaps of ideas for both my theatres (1 for wife and I, and another for the kids, allowing them to entertain friends). Thanks again for sharing everything on the forum...

Mark

Where are the new pictures??? I'm going threw WITHDRAW !!!!

How did you make the box up that is in the riser behind first set of chairs that features 6 hook-ups for video and telephone? Did you make all cables and connections yourself?

Everyone chant now... pictures...pictures...pictures.

This thread has been dead for a week!

I have a question that I still haven't seen or found an answer to. Why did you put sand in the stage? Also, why didn't you put sand in the riser?

Thank you.

I'm no expert, but I would presume sand was used to deaden the stage area...

Mark

This thread has been dead for a week!

I have a question that I still haven't seen or found an answer to. Why did you put sand in the stage? Also, why didn't you put sand in the riser?

Thank you.

The sand was used in the stage to deaden it. Whenever you have your speakers and sub on your stage, you use sand in the stage to stop the stage from resonating like an acoustic guitar. The Sub & Floor standing speakers sit on the Stage and when I stand right in front of the sub I don't feel my feet vibrating. Also another little note, Sand deadens vibration more than concrete. I had my sub on the concrete floor before and the floor used to vibrate a bit or should I say the sound was flanking through the concrete as they call it.

The Platform can be insulated with fiberglass or cotton because there are no speakers on it.

As far as more pictures and updates, I been busy with some other projects and will try to get some more done on the theater tomorrow. I just been EQing the room and messing around with measurements and software when possible.

Ruben

...Sand deadens vibration more than concrete. I had my sub on the concrete floor before and the floor used to vibrate a bit or should I say the sound was flanking through the concrete as they call it.

Ruben


Reminds me of the Consumer Electronic Show a few years back. My wife and I were waiting outside of the Runco/Acoustic Innovations booth for a demo in their room and we could hear that there was action going on in the room. At one point, the floor of the Las Vegas Convention Center started shaking from the bass. Maybe it was flanking through it, but I felt the concrete moving!

When we had our turn in the room, they said there were 11 subwoofers in the room (I can still swear I heard one that was either blown or bottoming out). It was a very cool demo!

This thread has been dead for a week!
.

This has been perfect or me! I was out of the country for the last week with no internet access! Thanks everyone for not posting too much! :)

Not an update, just a question.

Allot of Movie & Audio Mastering Studios use Genelec Powered Speakers as a Standard reference speaker. I use them as well in my business. The Genelec 1031a is pretty much the standard reference speaker in the industry for mixing surround.

Has anyone here ever heard of anyone using 7 of these for a 7.1 surround System? They are self powered and have 2 built in individual amps for Bass and Treble.

They run about $4k a pair New but can be gotten for less used.

A Little note On them:

The Genelec 1031A is a two-way active monitor system, consisting of a vented enclosure with a multiple amplifier unit set into the back. The amplifier unit contains a low signal level active crossover, two power amplifiers and overload protection for each driver. This design provides high output, low coloration and broad bandwidth. The system's excellent dispersion and precise imaging together with its compact size make it ideal for near field monitoring, broadcast and TV control rooms, mobile vans, home studios and travelling engineers.

Genelec's unique Directivity Control Waveguide™ (DCW ™) Technology is used to provide excellent stereo imaging and frequency balance, even in difficult acoustic environments. This is enhanced by the versatile crossover controls, which allow the precise matching of the speaker system to its surroundings. It is capable of producing peak acoustic levels of over 120 dB SPL at 1m.

Genelec 1031A Technical Specifications
SPL
Short term RMS @ 1m 110 dB SPL
Peak per pair with music material 120 dB SPL @ 1m
Drivers
Bass 8"
Treble 1" metal dome + DCW
Crossover frequencies 2.2 kHz
Free field frequency response ± 2.5dB 48 - 22 000 Hz
Amplifier power / ch
Bass 120 W
Treble 120 W
Speaker dimensions (H x W x D)
mm 393 x 250 x 290 mm
inches 15 1/2 x 9 7/8 x 11 7/16"
Speaker weight 12.7 kg (28 lb)

http://www.musicec.com/sale/product/monitor/images/genelec%20b-1031abig.jpg

Wouldn't they be a nightmare to truly match, so many variables (14 amps, 7 power points (ie....1st speaker on circuit would be subject to less resistance than 7th speaker on circuit, and if they are on different circuits thats a whole new issue)?


[QUOTE=SandmanX]Not an update, just a question.

Allot of Movie & Audio Mastering Studios use Genelec Powered Speakers as a Standard reference speaker. I use them as well in my business. The Genelec 1031a is pretty much the standard reference speaker in the industry for mixing surround.

Has anyone here ever heard of anyone using 7 of these for a 7.1 surround System? They are self powered and have 2 built in individual amps for Bass and Treble.

I would be concerned about the use of near-field monitors for speakers in a large environment like a home theater. I have used studio monitors in theater-like applications before and didn't notice any problems, but it seams like speakers designed for use close to the listener would maybe not have the dispersion needed for enveloping home theater surround sound.

Just my thoughts.

Brian

I agree with Brian. Most professional mixing is done with near field monitors like these (I am an ex amateur recording/mixing engineer). They are extremely accurate but are designed for being close to the listener. I found, in my personal experience and through professionals I came into contact with that these monitors are very good for mixing rooms but may not translate well into a larger environment.

I think he actualy listened to them in the room and preferred them to the ML's.

I understand the concern about nearfields in most cases. However, the Genelec's are supposed to have excellent dispersion characteristics which may overcome that limitation. Hey, as long as he has a pair and can try them, why not.

Well, in the end, in your room, its all about what you like.

This Great people should read this!

Bpape is absolutely right, it's Ruben's room and if he has heard those speakers in there and liked them, then screw conventional techniques. If Ruben were willing to fly me out I could definitely change my opinion on the use of mixing speakers in a HT, heck from the various hints here and there I'd even help him do some work or at least watch and give pointers there too. :p I could be way off base, but knowing he does video professionally and seeing one of his helpers I think that as fun as it is for him (or us) to spend his money, it's probably sometimes just as fun to make it.

Keep up the good work on your beautiful theater and house.

Later,
Brian

Ruben,

Happy reading

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=567901

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=618517

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=527612

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=623206

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=560618

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=624743

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=607411

Thats one long read.
Started monday from post 1, finished today.

Well, I have only three letters to type... W. O. W. !

That's gonna be one nice place to watch a movie... heck, if you'd let me, I'd move in and just camp out there. LOL. :D

It's only fitting, being that your theatre is probably worth more than my house. ;)

Very nice job. Gives me something to aspire to.

Not an update, just a question.

Allot of Movie & Audio Mastering Studios use Genelec Powered Speakers as a Standard reference speaker. I use them as well in my business. The Genelec 1031a is pretty much the standard reference speaker in the industry for mixing surround.

Has anyone here ever heard of anyone using 7 of these for a 7.1 surround System? They are self powered and have 2 built in individual amps for Bass and Treble.

They run about $4k a pair New but can be gotten for less used.

A Little note On them:

The Genelec 1031A is a two-way active monitor system, consisting of a vented enclosure with a multiple amplifier unit set into the back. The amplifier unit contains a low signal level active crossover, two power amplifiers and overload protection for each driver. This design provides high output, low coloration and broad bandwidth. The system's excellent dispersion and precise imaging together with its compact size make it ideal for near field monitoring, broadcast and TV control rooms, mobile vans, home studios and travelling engineers.

Genelec's unique Directivity Control Waveguide™ (DCW ™) Technology is used to provide excellent stereo imaging and frequency balance, even in difficult acoustic environments. This is enhanced by the versatile crossover controls, which allow the precise matching of the speaker system to its surroundings. It is capable of producing peak acoustic levels of over 120 dB SPL at 1m.

Genelec 1031A Technical Specifications
SPL
Short term RMS @ 1m 110 dB SPL
Peak per pair with music material 120 dB SPL @ 1m
Drivers
Bass 8"
Treble 1" metal dome + DCW
Crossover frequencies 2.2 kHz
Free field frequency response ± 2.5dB 48 - 22 000 Hz
Amplifier power / ch
Bass 120 W
Treble 120 W
Speaker dimensions (H x W x D)
mm 393 x 250 x 290 mm
inches 15 1/2 x 9 7/8 x 11 7/16"
Speaker weight 12.7 kg (28 lb)

http://www.musicec.com/sale/product/monitor/images/genelec%20b-1031abig.jpg



I heard the 1037 in a 7.1 theater showroom here in seattle they are nice

I agree with Brian. Most professional mixing is done with near field monitors like these (I am an ex amateur recording/mixing engineer). They are extremely accurate but are designed for being close to the listener. I found, in my personal experience and through professionals I came into contact with that these monitors are very good for mixing rooms but may not translate well into a larger environment.

Ebr,

Times have changed. Before we know it conventional Passive speakers may be a thing of the past in modern times. With a passive speaker you have to worry about x-over db drops, phase issues, matching amp to speaker, wiring, heat in the rack from amps.

An active speaker has built in active x-overs, dual built in matching amps for bass and treble, no issues with out of phase speakers, heat is not an issue, long Speaker cable runs are not an issue with them since you can run a balanced wire to them. Buying an active speaker means you can basically get the sound the manufacturer intended right out the box and not have to worry if you Amps, x-overs and speaker wire runs are going to alter The sound.

There is not much talk about Active monitors here because people aren't really up on them. I been using active monitors since the 90's. I see allot of these guys in those threads pocoloco posted trading in their high end gear and picking up the Mackie HR824s to do their theaters with. Mackie owners, don't take this the wrong way but the Mackie HR824 is the poor mans Genelec 1031a. I myself owned Mackie 824's a while back before I plunged to get Genelecs. The Genelecs are not as bass heavy as the Mackies and the Genelecs have better detail/imaging. I also owned krk'sand tannoy's in the past as well.

pocoloco posted some good links above and I think you should take a look at them. People are starting to make the switch.

Ruben

FWIW I agree with you. I've got 2 HR824s in the "studio," and I'd do an HT with 5 or 7 of them in a heartbeat, except that I don't have the money for that, much less Genelecs.

I also don't buy "nearfields only sound good when you are close to them." That doesn't make any sense. At any rate, in a heavily treated HT you're going to be in the nearfield at a much greater distance than a normal room.

I'll admit I'm an old dog when it comes to this stuff. I haven't done any studio work since the late 90's. So I'm sure things have changed.

Some of the best sounding theaters I've done were Meridian DSPs. I like the processing, and the way the speakers are linked together digitally just works.

I have had my ass kicked on multiple occasions by Genelec theaters as well. If money is no object, I never hesitate to recommend active monitors.

The bigger Genelec theater I got to hear was borderline disturbing. The air was downright thick with SPLs. My hair stood up on my arms and I got butterflies in my stomach that bordered on nausea, but at the same time I loved every minute of it. I remember swearing to myself at that point that if I ever had the money to do whatever I wanted, that I would have a big time Genelec theater. In my mind Genelec is king. Hands down.

Alright, enough of this, where are the #(&*@#$#$ pictures. Ruben, stop watching movies and snap a few for petes sake...we are like a bunch of junkies out here and we need our fix.

but then you look at studios like this that went the other direction and realize that our options are growing, but the change isn't necessarily in any direction...


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=54725&stc=1

p.s. I've got 824's in my home studio, and while it would be interesting to compare them to my n802's in my HT, as i believe they are very detailed (never heard the genelecs to my knowledge), i don't think they would hold up to the depth and soundstage.

Sandman,

Love the thread and an inspiration for when I build my HT. I found it interesting there is suddenly so much talk about Genelec and no reference to Meridian. When you made your comment that, "Mackie owners, don't take this the wrong way but the Mackie HR824 is the poor mans Genelec 1031a..." I couldn't help but agree and think hang on, isn't Genelec the poor mans version of Meridian? Again, no offence to Genelec owners out there. I auditioned both Genelec and Meridian and there was no question for me, Meridian it is. I have DSP5200's with a G68D processor and I find them magic for moves and music.

If you are going to consider active speakers, I'd think you want to consider those that others are modelled on. I know, a big statement... but like everything else, HT is subjective and this is just my opinion.

[Edit: I saw Erik's post after I wrote mine. I'll put DSP8000's up against anything Genelec has to offer. Again, just my opinion. ;) ]

Enjoy.

Cheers,

Chris :)

I would put Genelec over Meridian in terms of sheer output (the big stuff).
Depends what you are trying to achieve. Personally, I like getting my head caved in. No worries though, I probably have the same amount of love for Meridian as you. They really are something.

M&K has a set of powered speakers that are offered in their HT line, not to mention a few in their Pro line as well. M&K have some really great speakers for the money.

~Bob