That is an interesting thought. Does the Hitachi have access to LUT and bias and gain controls? Is that the gamma stuff? When I finish my latest round of re-arranging my home (room) theatre I will look seriously into colour calibrating.

My home theatre environment is my 12 x 14 foot bedroom. It is dusty for a number of reasons. One of which is that we have no furnace filter. There is an electric one, but it has been off for years since it eventually got clogged. Just as well, it was a power hog. I also don't clean/dust/vacuum my room enough. I am taking steps to remedy the situation. 1) I bought a dust cover from an online place in the states, 2) I am going to fix the furnace filter situation, 3) I am going to upgrade the air filter system of the hitachi, and; 4) I will dust and vacuum more often, and when I do, I will do it with the dust cover on the Hitachi projector.

I have often thought that if I attached something to the air filter air entrance part of the projector and routed it to a box which had a huge furnace sized air filter on one side, you would have massive filtration and no real affect on air flow. A DIY idea for the future. Those air filters you linked to look interesting. I was going to try some filtrete air filter stuff. I guess if I bought a big one, I could just cut out a tiny peice big enough for the projector, or, as above, I could try a DIY box using the whole filter. Who knows.

Have you thought of doing a color-facts/Smart III or whatever the other one is called? Perhaps using a colour filter?

Hi,

I have tried to find a good refresh rate using PowerStrip and JudderTest for my PJ-TX200 and found that 61.728 Hz runs smooth in JudderTest. Then last night I found the Frame Lock setting in the PJ-TX200 menu. When I set it to 'on' JudderTest runs smooth for all (the ones I tested...) refreshrates.

As frontend I run MediaPortal with a plugin that when playing movies tries to determine a suitable refresh rate,

for PAL (25fps): 50, 75, 100, 120, ... Hz;
for NTSC (29.9fps): 60, 90, 120, ... Hz;
for film (24fps): 48, 72, 96, ... Hz.

and then via PowerStrip set the refresh rate for my display.

Do you think I shall use 61.728 Hz with FrameLock set to 'on' for all types of films? Or shall I use 50, 60, 72 (even though without FrameLock they look like crap in JudderTest) with FrameLock on?


regards Per-Ola

Are there any issues with using frame-lock that make it a bad choice? I say keep experimenting and then decide based on your experiment. I have an iScan HD+ and I cannot even recall right now what I have it set to other than 1280 x 720p. As far as the TX200 pj goes, I am using the HDMI input. I will check if I am using frame lock.

I think I have dust blobs. Ugh.

There are three seemingly circular images, each about 3-4 inches in diameter that are visible only against a black screen. There have no color themselves but are visible against a black background nevertheless.

I would rather not disassemble the projector again. Has anyone found a good way of clearing them, assuming they are dust blobs?

I wonder whether or not blowing air into the projector to dislodge the dust blobs, or using a vacuum cleaner to suck them out could work. It may work or it may not do anything. I cannot think of anything else. How many hours did you go before you got dust blobs?

Not many. After my lamp blew I dissected the projector and cleaned everything. This new lamp has less than 200 hours on it. The projector has around 500 altogether. I cleaned the filter about 20 hours ago. I am not sure that they are, in fact, dust blobs but unless they were defects in source material, which I doubt, dust is the only think that comes to mind.

Poffe: Whatever you did, at what setting did you get "frame-locked" display for 24fps material?? I'v tried almost everything, no judder-free for 24,48,72hz....

That PJ syncs to 50 and 60hz - that's it.

Done almost everything with Powerstrip..

Thanks in advance...

Don

Is it possible to set up X-box on my Hitachi PX-200 ?? Tried doing a search on it but couldn't find anything. Do I need any special cables ?? Thx for your input.

I've had the Hitachi Home 1 for about a year anda half now and have been very satisfied with the quality and performance. I think it's about time to upgrade and could use some advice. I'd like to stay with the Hitachi's because I've always been happy with them plus I wouldn't have to change out the ceiling mount.
MY dilemna is that I don't know which to get, the tx100 or pj52. I might be able to get the tx100 for $800 refurbed or if I'm patient, maybe the pj52 for about 1100. I'd be partly financing this by selling off the home1. It only has 700 hours so I should get a fair price.
For usage, I'm mostly using it for DVD's and HDTV thru my PC using component output. I have a Radeon with the DVI to component adaptor which works pretty well.
Basically, is the PJ52 that much better or would I even notice the difference if the 2 were side by side? IS the tx100 "old" technology?
What would you do and why?

TIA

I've had the Hitachi Home 1 for about a year anda half now and have been very satisfied with the quality and performance. I think it's about time to upgrade and could use some advice. I'd like to stay with the Hitachi's because I've always been happy with them plus I wouldn't have to change out the ceiling mount.
MY dilemna is that I don't know which to get, the tx100 or pj52. I might be able to get the tx100 for $800 refurbed or if I'm patient, maybe the pj52 for about 1100. I'd be partly financing this by selling off the home1. It only has 700 hours so I should get a fair price.
For usage, I'm mostly using it for DVD's and HDTV thru my PC using component output. I have a Radeon with the DVI to component adaptor which works pretty well.
Basically, is the PJ52 that much better or would I even notice the difference if the 2 were side by side? IS the tx100 "old" technology?
What would you do and why?

TIA

As between the Tx100 and the hdpj52, I would spend the extra money and get the hdpj52. The reason for this is that the hdpj52 has two Irises. Thus, your black levels and contrast will be much better. I have turned off the dynamic iris on my hdpj52 (which probably approximates a tx100) and would not be satisfied with that picture. The dynamic iris makes a big difference in my opinion.

However, I would not limit yourself to Hitachi projectors. Check out the under $3000 forums and see what other people are using. There are dlp projectors that are now sub $1000. They throw a great picture but lack many of the features of the hdpj52, such as lens shift, which may be a deal breaker for you.

As between the Tx100 and the hdpj52, I would spend the extra money and get the hdpj52. The reason for this is that the hdpj52 has two Irises. Thus, your black levels and contrast will be much better. I have turned off the dynamic iris on my hdpj52 (which probably approximates a tx100) and would not be satisfied with that picture. The dynamic iris makes a big difference in my opinion.

However, I would not limit yourself to Hitachi projectors. Check out the under $3000 forums and see what other people are using. There are dlp projectors that are now sub $1000. They throw a great picture but lack many of the features of the hdpj52, such as lens shift, which may be a deal breaker for you.


Hmm good points. It does seem that the auto iris is a love/hate relationship. Some people complain that it's just too slow and others can't live without it.

It's also funny how much one comes to depend on features such as the lens shift. It's not a deal breaker when I use it inside, although it does help a lot. I do like to do "Drive In nite" during the summer and there's no way I could pull that off without the lens shift.

Dust blobs gone. At least for now.

I had to disassemble and reassemble the projector three times in order to get rid of them.

I will never buy a projector that is prone to dust blobs again.

It is shocking to me that major manufacturers of consumer electronics would market projectors that have this kind of defect. At least Sanyo has a consumer friendly remedy for it.

The dust that was either on the panels or polarizers was not even visible. Thus, there was no way that I could be sure the blobs were gone prior to reassembling.

The good news is that I can now completely disassemble and reassemble a HDPJ52 is roughly a half hour.

I will be exploring a supplemental filter solution.

Well, like I said, I now have a cheap vinyl dust cover for the projector and I have a TX100 air filter on the way. I hope to improve the dust conditions in this house and also try to seal around the air filters a little better. Dust blobs are far and away the biggest annoyance of this projector.

cpc,

Have you come to any conclusions about the D6 LCD projectors? From what I can gather, it would be a pretty incremental upgrade. I believe (without ever seeing one) that a D6 would eliminate any SDE effect but only moderately improve contrast and black levels.

At first I was hopeful, and then when the Mitsubishi was reviewed, I was disappointed. I figured for $4-$5K it has to be much better than the $2K 720p lcd's...but I didn't get that sense from the reviews and reports. When I heard about the potentially incredible performance of the JVC HD1/RS1 and it's much higher price tag, I thought there isn't much to chose from. Then the Epson came out and it seemed similar to the Mits but different. I am not too interested in the Panny 1000. I have been continuing to follow the threads and lately I have been getting the impression from owners of the Mits and Epson that the 1080p D6's are perhaps better than I fisrt thought. Perhaps they do look good and although the blacks are still grey, the picture is great. I am leaning back towards giving them a chance. I should take a look at one in action. There is a local here who has one but I wasn't able to get over and see it. Perhaps I will investigate that opportunity again.

For me, in order to spend lot's more ca$h on a new projector, above and beyond the $2K that I have been spending for my 720p lcd's like the Hitachi TX100 and now the TX200, I must see a worth while improvement. It has to be an improvement that justifies the money I spend. I don't have much problem with SDE. I would like better blacks and contrast and higher resolution would be nice too. I would also like fewer dust blobs.

What do you think? Any thoughts?

I think that I agree with you in most of what you wrote.

I am generally very happy with my Hitachi. To replace it, I think I would need to be convinced that I would see substantial improvement.

I have to clarify what I mean by SDE. In fields of uniform color, although I cannot make out clear SDE, these is perhaps some residual pixelization that I can make out, as if the millions of pixels, while each not visible, are kind of imperfectly melded together. It is very subtle and I am not sure if I am imagining it. I think that increased resolution will eliminate this.

I also want blacker blacks and increased contrast.

The odd thing is that when I first got this projector I enjoyed watching a much brighter picture and would open the iris all the way up. The blacks then seemed black probably because the irises in my eyes opend all the way and perceived contrast made blacks look black.

Now, I really like a dimmer picture and watch with the Iris at 0. Even with the Iris at 0, when the scene changes from dark to light, my eyes feel as thought I left a dark room and went outside. The problem is that the blacks are obviously grey at these levels, especially the so-called black bars. Using the digital shutter helps things a bit but I would like blacker blacks.

I get the impression that the D6s will help my first problem but not my second. The RS1 looks like it might cure both, but at a cost that I don't think I am willing to pay right now.

If you go costant height, you will add more life to your hitachi. I have and I love it. iScan HD+ and a Prismasonic lens and I am in 2.37:1 heaven :)

CPC,
What aspect ratio are you using on the projector? What do you do for different formats like 1:85, 1:78. Do you use the same aspect ratio setting on the projector and vary the width with the HD+. If so you still get black bar son each side of the image depending on the film aspect ratio. Am I right ? Is the lens working for all aspect ratio or just for 1:2.35?

Thanks!!

I use 16:9 and have only really watched movies that I believe are 2.37:1. Using the HD+ I vertically stretch the image until the black bars are gone. I then use the Prismasonic lens to expand the projected image to 2.37:1.

With the HD+ and the variable Prismasonic, I could theoretically go constant height for anything between 16:9 and 2.37:1 (my screen will only be 2.37:1 do anything wider will have black bars. I just haven't sat down with a movie that was not 2.37:1 yet. I may try Tron (which I believe is 2.20:1) or Apocalypse Now (2.00:1 iirc). I am just about to re-build my screen and get my theatre back in action. Technically I am sure you could go constant height with the lens for 1.85:1 films, but the black bars are so tiny, I am not sure it is worth it. Perhaps I will give it a try out of curiosity anyhow.

Anybody been using an HD-DVD player with the TX200 lately? I am trying to figure out what the deal is. If you get the unit that outputs 1080i you have to rely on either of the projector or your iScan to de-interlace and "scale" to 720p. I only have an iScan HD+ so I am not sure what it's de-interlacing/scaling is like with 1080i film dvd signals. I know the VP50 is one of the best 1080i de-interlacers, but I thought I heard that 1080i film hd-dvd's is ok for an iScan HD+ ... otherwise you need one of the 1080p HD-DVD players (or a 1080p blu-ray player) at $1200!

So anybody play with 1080i (and/or 1080p) HD-DVD's on your TX200 lately? I think I asked this question once before so I am asking again to see if more people are doing it now so I can get more feedback from as many people as possible :)

I'm feeding me TX200 with HD-DVD from the Toshiba HD-E1 (European HD-A2). As i dont have a external scaler/deinterlacer, i'm feeding 720p, because i think sharpness is a bit better than in 1080i while 1080i tend to give very little more detail.

At the moment i'm considering the HD-XE1, when the 24p Update for the Toshiba is out.

Anyone know, if the TX200 can handle 24p ? And what firmware release have you got in your TX200. Mine is from september 2005.

Have to check on my firmware. I only know of the Toshiba HD-DVD A2 and XA2. Not sure about the 24p. I have tried different hz from my iScan HD+ and I can't remember what was bad and what was ok. I'll have to check again.

Have to check on my firmware. I only know of the Toshiba HD-DVD A2 and XA2. Not sure about the 24p. I have tried different hz from my iScan HD+ and I can't remember what was bad and what was ok. I'll have to check again.

Would be very nice if you can check it. At the moment i'm having a HD-E1 (the european HD-A2) I'm considering the HD-XE1 (european HD-XA2).

24p would be perfect, if it works.

I have my new home theatre website up and running now. Anyway you can check my site out @ http://frozen-toes-home-theatre.com The HD7100 full review has been cancelled, however I will still post a few screen shots and a mini review within the next couple of weeks. I also plan on testing and reviewing the RS1 when I receive mine in a couple of weeks. I will post my results here on the RS1 AVS forum thread and up date my website as well at that time.

Anyone seen the PJTX300 yet? It looks like they can be purchased in the UK. I still have my PJTX100 it will get replaced soon when my bulb burns out again. I might just buy another tx100. PP sells them for 689 + they offer a 3 year bulb warranty for $99 replacing 2 bulbs (easy to do in three years). That comes out to 788 for the projector and 3 bulbs, about the same price for the 3 bulbs alone.
Ken

TX200 is worth more than the TX100 just because of the auto iris.

Does anybody know whether I can do the following?

Component > VGA into the TX200 without a transcoder? I have a dvd player I'd like to play with it's component outputs, but I have a long VGA cable I am not using and would rather use that than buy a long component cable. Couldn't I just use a cable adapter from component to VGA? I am not sure if the TX200 will allow that.

Another question. Is it possible that the Hitachi TX200 behaves much like other projectors in that it has max brightness/min contrast at the shortest throw/wide angle and max contrast/min brightness at tele/longest throw?

Anyone seen the PJTX300 yet? It looks like they can be purchased in the UK. I still have my PJTX100 it will get replaced soon when my bulb burns out again. I might just buy another tx100. PP sells them for 689 + they offer a 3 year bulb warranty for $99 replacing 2 bulbs (easy to do in three years). That comes out to 788 for the projector and 3 bulbs, about the same price for the 3 bulbs alone.
Ken

The TX300 is the same projector as the TX200, just black in color.

Still no one, who could test or know, if the PJ-TX200 can handle 24p ?

It would be very annoying, to order a 24p capable player for HD-DVD or Blu-Ray, to find out the PJ can not handle it.

Would be very nice.

Thank you in advance,

Regards Daniel

I'll check it out when I get a chance but I am in NTSC land :) I have an iScan HD+ so I can figure something out.

Would be nice.

99% of my DVDs and HD-DVDs are Region 1. So NTSC is no problem.

So anybody play with 1080i (and/or 1080p) HD-DVD's on your TX200 lately? I think I asked this question once before so I am asking again to see if more people are doing it now so I can get more feedback from as many people as possible :)

On my TX200 with the XBOX 360 with HD-DVD drive I get 1080p over component for games, but it switches to 1080i for HD-DVD movies. 1080p over VGA does not lock.

With my PS3 I get 1080p over HDMI into the TX200 for Blu-ray.

I'm trying stuff tonight so I will remember to try 24p if my iScan HD+ allows it. I just realized I don't have any HD sources so is my test relevant?

Thank you very much for your help.

@digitalsafari:

can you check what signal the Hitachi reports when feeding 1080p with the PS3 ? I assume the PS3 does not support 24p yet and its only 60Hz.

@cpc:

no matter if it's SD or HD, al long as you set your IScan to 1080p24, but according to DVDOs Homepage i don't think it can do that. But you can test 48Hz or 72Hz , as these are multiples of 24p and if the Hitachi can do this, i will build myself a HTPC or get a Scaler.

Thank you very much for your help.

@digitalsafari:

can you check what signal the Hitachi reports when feeding 1080p with the PS3 ? I assume the PS3 does not support 24p yet and its only 60Hz.

@cpc:

no matter if it's SD or HD, al long as you set your IScan to 1080p24, but according to DVDOs Homepage i don't think it can do that. But you can test 48Hz or 72Hz , as these are multiples of 24p and if the Hitachi can do this, i will build myself a HTPC or get a Scaler.

I tried a PAL dvd at different Hz and it seemed to make no difference. I'll have to try again. I think I was able to do 75 or 50 Hz, maybe 72 or 48 I can't remember exactly but I tried all the 720p options and they worked. Tonight I'll try 1080p options .. the projector is 720p so I forgot you wanted to try 1080p. I'll try it again with both PAL and NTSC dvd's :)

I tried a PAL dvd at different Hz and it seemed to make no difference. I'll have to try again. I think I was able to do 75 or 50 Hz, maybe 72 or 48 I can't remember exactly but I tried all the 720p options and they worked. Tonight I'll try 1080p options .. the projector is 720p so I forgot you wanted to try 1080p. I'll try it again with both PAL and NTSC dvd's :)

Thank you for your time. 1080p24 is the most interesting, cause it will give you stutter free HD-DVD.

If 1080p24 is working, i'll sell my HD-E1 (HD-A2) and get a HD-XE1 (HD-XA2) cause 1080p24 for the XE1 is announced for the summer.

Hello ,
I have around 40hours on my projector and I notice on a white screen that the left side is blueish and the right side is yelloish. I can't really see it watching a movie but it still bothers me. I have read how to get in the factory menu to modify the uniformity but I've tried it and I can't get to this menu. Anyone with an import model got to this menu? Is there another way to get to this menu with the import models?

Thanks.

If nobody else replies, I'll dig it up and post it here. You may find it by searching.

Thank you very much for your help.

@digitalsafari:

can you check what signal the Hitachi reports when feeding 1080p with the PS3 ? I assume the PS3 does not support 24p yet and its only 60Hz.


The PJ reports 1920x1080 60Hz for 1080p, PS3 can't do 24p yet.

Hello all, I finally got to the factory menu !!It was as said ...


Thsnks

An unnamed warehouse club is offering a deal on the HDPJ52, including a 106" fixed screen, 30' hdmi cable and apparently a ceiling mount, for an obscene price.

I can't believe what has happened to prices.

An unnamed warehouse club is offering a deal on the HDPJ52, including a 106" fixed screen, 30' hdmi cable and apparently a ceiling mount, for an obscene price.

I can't believe what has happened to prices.

Thanks for the tip. I need to replace my tx100. It has a magenta hue on part of the picture and I can't seem to fix it dispite three or four tear downs to clean it. I have a 92" Carada screen and the 106" would be nice but I am concerned it is going to be a little too large, 100" would be perfect. Has anyone seen the screen? I am wondering about the quality. I may stop by and have a look.

Thanks for the tip. I need to replace my tx100. It has a magenta hue on part of the picture and I can't seem to fix it dispite three or four tear downs to clean it. I have a 92" Carada screen and the 106" would be nice but I am concerned it is going to be a little too large, 100" would be perfect. Has anyone seen the screen? I am wondering about the quality. I may stop by and have a look.

Even using the service menu and colour uniformity tweaks you can't get rid of the problem?

Just looked at the TX100 guide for dust blobs and hope I'm not making a duplicate post, but this TX200 owner has made an awesome guide for the TX200:

http://home.parse.nl/~michiel/hitachi%20pj-tx200%20howto%20open/

:)

I have a real problem with color uniformity when I put the iris on auto 1. The right side is really yellow while the other side is bluish. I went in the factory menu in the color uniformity menu but it doesn't help. I 've tried increasing the red and blue on the right side to get rid of the yellow and it seems to help on the PJ-tx200 white image but when I leave the menu and put Avia pulse needle on the screen it is always yellow. I don't have any measuring device so it is hard for me to see what kind of changes I'm making on the min, mid 1, mid 2 images. Anyone has a solution for my problem?


Thanks

That warehouse deal didn't last long.

Anybody know if Hitachi is bowing out of the home theatre projector market? LCD or otherwise? I keep thinking it would have been great for there to have been a TX1080. Could you imagine a Hitachi projector with a manual and auto-iris and all the colour uniformity adjustments the Hitachi TX100 and 200/300 are known for? A 1080 Hitachi home theatre projector would have been great.

Does anybody know if there is anything on the horizon for a new Hitachi Home Theatre projector? LCD? Other?

:)

Anybody know if Hitachi is bowing out of the home theatre projector market? LCD or otherwise? I keep thinking it would have been great for there to have been a TX1080. Could you imagine a Hitachi projector with a manual and auto-iris and all the colour uniformity adjustments the Hitachi TX100 and 200/300 are known for? A 1080 Hitachi home theatre projector would have been great.

Does anybody know if there is anything on the horizon for a new Hitachi Home Theatre projector? LCD? Other?

:)

I was told by someone in Hitachi USA managment that they have "temporarily" exited the home theater market. That was quite a while ago, but I don't see any new products on the horizon from them. At the time he said that there might be a 1080p projecotor, but it would not be a HT projector, it would be a business or educational projector.

I was told by someone in Hitachi USA managment that they have "temporarily" exited the home theater market. That was quite a while ago, but I don't see any new products on the horizon from them. At the time he said that there might be a 1080p projecotor, but it would not be a HT projector, it would be a business or educational projector.

Yeah, I remember you mentioning that. Kinda sucks. Remember when the TX100 came out part way through the year and shocked everybody with it's decent performance and then the TX200 came out and was even better? We need another Hitachi lcd but home theatre 1080 lcd :)

I agree, I love my Hitachi, keeps going strong!

Yeah, I remember you mentioning that. Kinda sucks. Remember when the TX100 came out part way through the year and shocked everybody with it's decent performance and then the TX200 came out and was even better? We need another Hitachi lcd but home theatre 1080 lcd :)

Their problem was that the TX200 was probably the best of the 720p LCD projectors but at least here in the U.S., it was priced very unrealistically and never really got any traction. If it had been priced to compete with the AE900 and Z4, I think that it would have done a lot better than it did. I don't know of a single person that bought the HDPJ52 (at least unitl it was discounted recently). Everyone imported the tx200 from Japan.

I don't know what Hitachi was thinking.

The PS3 now supports forced24p. I tried it yesterday and the PJ reports 1920x1080@24Hz, but the image is stuttering and tearing much more worse than the pulldown judder.

So no go with 24p and the TX200

my projector has a bright blue portion on the left edge. When the picture goes to black the left edge is still bright blue. I don't think this would be a dust blob. Does anyone have a clue what could cause this.
thanks

possibly a polarizing filter going bad on your blue panel. I would have it checked.

If the PJ over heats it could melt that filter.

OK, I have just spent quite a lot of time on this forum just to try and figure out if when I buy a PS3 I can hook it up to my TX200 and get it to work properly....

Some people here have reported successes and failures. Unfortunately, it is not always easy to find teh right answers since firmwares have changed, etc... (for example, I have found that PS3 is blu-ray region coded and that it is not...).

If I went off to buy a PS3 tomorrow and hooked it up via HDMI to my TX200, would I get a nice 720p output from blu-ray movies? (that's the max from TX200, right?).

I'm not too concerned about games.

Thanks a lot for your help, I just don't trust sales people to actually help me out with this one...

Hi,

I used the TX-200 with a PS3. Best results were at 1080p60. The PS3 adds too many artifacts at 720p and anything less is useless. 1080p60 was also the choice for watching BluRay.

I was very surprised of that. HD-DVD and anything else looked best at 720p.

but I thought the TX200 does not do 1080p (from the manual):
Resolution 1280 dots x 720 lines
input:
HDTV: 750p (720p@60Hz), 1125i(1080i@50/60Hz)

so you are saying that if I output 1080p60 from the PS3 I can watch it at 720p on my hitachi?

Cheers.

Yep,

it worked on mine alright to my happy surprise. :-)

Even 24p worked, but only with heavy tearing. 720p was a bit blurred, 1080p was simply much smoother and showed more detail. That is for games and BluRay. When surfing the internet very small fonts are not very good readable because there is no 1-to-1-pixelmapping possible. But even then it was better than any other resolution from the PS3.

As I said before, only the PS3 behaved like that. Any other source was better at 720p as expected.

Hi,

I noticed lately that my projecor is showing a greenish image when I strat it up. The image occasionnnaly switch between being ok and being greenish but after a while it goes away and the image is fine. I have around 600 hours on my lamp. Does anybody knows what the problem may be?


Thanks!!

http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/1708/pe7700vstx200copyhl4.jpg

Entirely black room, white 1.1gain screen, white walls :S

PE7700 to the left
IRE 0
Brightness -4
Contrast +2
Gamma +71
Economy mode

TX200 to the right
IRIS 1
Auto iris 1
Contrast 15
HDMI Normal
Gamma low
7500K
Whisper mode

The other settings were mostly left to normal or 0. Seems like HX200 has a slight advantage, perhaps a bit due to the bluer image, colors are a bit off perhaps.

Guess this is as good as blacklevels get with budget PJs, bought the tx200 used for 400GBP. What would be the cheapest one to get that'd trump there results? And would a grey screen help much?

Any thoughts?

This off subject but screen related. I own the pjtx100 and when compared to my optoma hd7100 suffers on blacks which is typical for LCD. I recently got into a screen
project(home made) using the silver PVC and frosted vinyl mounted on a 3 X 6 plexiglass.
used for wide screen viewing. I get curvature by mounting taught string in each corner and use the bow and arrow affect to induce curvature. I was pleasantly surprised how this improved my blacks and added richness to colors especially for LCD. I only get minor hotspotting. The only problem is that the vinyl does not stretch and will seperate from the PVC if I leave it in a curved position, so I let it flatten out in between viewings.

I just picked up the BDP-S550 and set it to forced 24P. The projector sync'd up at 1920x1080 24Hz and I didn't notice the tearing the other users who've tried this using a PS3 noted. Of course, it doesn't look too different from the 720P image, but I get the cool blue 24P light on the front of the BDP-S550 and no longer suffer from 24P envy.

I'll have to do some additional viewings, but it looks like there's still quite a bit of mileage in this projector yet!

Update: After watching a couple of movies, I think the Hitachi's 3:2 pulldown does a better job than straight 24P. I was also swayed from my original impression after reading this: http://www.projectorcentral.com/judder_24p.htm

Anyone looking for a HDPJ52? I am selling mine as I have to make some financial changes. I am still on the original bulb at roughly 2200 hrs but also have a brand new bulb that is included as well as a new filter and a new spare filter. Please take a look at my Amazon.com marketplace link and let me know if you have any questions. You should be able to contact me through the Amazon Marketplace about my projector.

Thanks.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B000BSORG4/ref=dp_olp_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1227062592&sr=8-1

What does everyone use to calibrate their unit? I have the HD DVD version of DVE but I must be doing something wrong because no matter what sources i use after that, nothing looks that good. I mostly seem to have problems with dark scenes. I have a firehawk 1.1 gain screen in a dark room. My iris setting is at a 4. Which i have raised and lowered with no positive effects. I tried to understand everything the disc had me do but i don't think it was user friendly at all. The HD side of the disc had hardly any explanation, mostly just the graphics to tune to. I tried watching the plain dvd side, but i really think the dvd is not very good overall.

Is their other discs that anyone recommends?

If you're having problems with dark scenes, it's probably your gamma setting & calibrating won't work until that's set properly.
I have a PJ-TX100 & use the first gamma setting. I messed around with the custom gamma, but in the end stuck with the first one. I read somewhere that the third & fourth settings crush the blacks, resulting in loss of shadow detail, & my observations bear that out.

I have tried to understand the gamma settings before. Could anyone give me a quick rundown of these gamma settings and what they do? I understand them from a very basic standpoint, but as i flip through them, i cannot quite pinpoint what is changing. I tried using a couple different gammas and calibrating, but in the end, i think i was making it worse on myself since i didn't fully understand what changed.

Hello there,

Old post but anyway,
is there a way to upgrade the firmware of this old PJ TX200 ?
I'm stuck with a "dialogue" problem between this unit and the Yamaha RX-V767.
Problem has been explained here :
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=21074279&postcount=3008

I tried to contact Hitashi but I dan't receive any answer back.

any one can help me ?

Thanks !