nsavarirayan;

Very nice!

I have a 50" 8uk coming on 1/17, can't wait!

I ordered the table stand because I can't decide how I want to mount it. My question is how far is the bottom of the monitor from the the floor? I didn't want to mount it on the wall cause I thought it may be to high, and don't want to constantly be looking up at the screen. If you go to the newer stadium seating movie theaters, if anything your looking down at the screen.

After you watch your 8uk like that, tell what you think.

The plasma is mounted about three feet from the floor to the bottom of the TV. I like a bit high since I have a growing 6 month old who would be able to reach it - at least now by the time he is old enough to reach it he will know daddy won't like that!! The mount is an omni tilt mount so I have it tilted down to make up for mounting it high. The mount was very easy to do and I am not handy at all! So far I have cox cable HD service and am just loving it. I have my two surround speakers coming in the mail tomorrow to finish off my set-up. Its amazing how you can watch shows you normally would not watch just becuase of the quality! Can't wait for some NFL tomorrow on it!

Good question. I'd like to know the same. What makes any display digital?

I heard that only DLP's are purely digital.

ltagg,

Awesome!! Thanks very much for posting this. That setup looks sweet! :) This is exactly what I was hoping to find; someone with a similar installation.

I'll only have about 0.2" on each side, but the panel will be placed on a stand. The speaker shelf above the panel is adjustable. So, I should have adequate ventilation at top and bottom.

Thanks Again!



If I don't buy the 50PHD8UK, I'll be buying the new NEC 42XR4. Any opinions on which I should buy?

Magnatest: If your choice boils down to 42" (NEC) vs. 50" (Panasonic), don't even think about it.....Purchase the 50." Otherwise, you are likely to experience buyer's remourse over purchasing the smaller plasma later on. With HDTV, bigger is ALWAYS better when you bring the plamsa home. (Of course, some of our spouses may not always agree.)

Don't get hung up on display quality differences between the Panasonic 8UK's and the NEC's. The differences are minor and no 2 viewers are likely to agree on which is the better display. (There is SO MUCH hype going on with most of it being marketing noise and/or self justification for purchasing a more expensive product.) More importantly, when you bring your plasma home, it will look great and you won't have another plasma sitting next to it to do side by side comparisons. Believe me, you will regret not getting the biggest display that you can, provided it fits into your available space, doesn't overwhelm your room and you can afford the purchase financially.

Good luck with your decision.

I posted my reply to Magnatest and forgot to mention that I too confronted "clearance" issues. My 65" 8UK is on an angled wall that left me very little room to install side speakers. I went with Polk Audio speakers that I mounted on each side of the display, but I have very little room between the display and the speakers and between the speakers and the edge of the wall. I'll try to post pictures over the weekend (if I can figure out how to do that on this forum). The end result, with the audio/video cabinet below that we had custom built to house and hide all of our equipment (my wife designed it) turned out as well as I could possibly have hoped for. We're thrilled with it, despite my wife's earlier reluctance for us to purchase a plasma this large given the space limitations that we faced.

jsf2001,

Thanks for the post. I'm swaying towards the 50" Panasonic. I'd love to see photos of your setup, especially the 65" beast.

I heard that only DLP's are purely digital.

This may be true, I'm not sure. There are some areas where you'd rather have analog processing, however. For instance, the dithering noise seen in plasmas is due in part to digital processing having finite steps which produces less linearity where the lcd's do better as part of the color processing is analog.

I think this may go beyond the simple question "What makes a digital display?". For the purposes of discussion, I'd say all fixed pixel displays should be considered digital.

Forgive the very low resolutions of the attached photographs (TIVO of football game on DirecTV). I had to reduce the resolution in order to upload the photos and the image quality suffers greatly, especially the pictures of the plasma screen. (The pictures make the screen look VERY dull. Believe me, the screen is VERY vibrant in real life.) The side speakers actually produce good sound, especially because the Denon AV receiver compensates for the smaller speaker size by relying on a subwoofer for enhancing the base and the center channel speaker is a good size.

The cabinet below the plasma is not quite finished. (We're waiting on cabinet door hardware (pulls) and you may notice masking tape at the top of the 2 front doors that we're using for the time being to open the cabinet doors.) The cabinet doors slide into the cabinet after opening and the shelves are attached to a mechanism that slides forward about 2' and rotates 90 degrees in either direction for access to the back of components. The area between the 2 cabinet doors is where the center channel speaker is hidden, with the IR "eye" above. I also included a picture of one of the 2 side cabinet panels in its opened condition to show that the panels hide CD and DVD storage.

That 65" panel looks great. Thanks for sharing the photos. You certainly made the most of the space available to you.

Magnatest: If your choice boils down to 42" (NEC) vs. 50" (Panasonic), don't even think about it.....Purchase the 50." Otherwise, you are likely to experience buyer's remourse over purchasing the smaller plasma later on. With HDTV, bigger is ALWAYS better when you bring the plamsa home. (Of course, some of our spouses may not always agree.)

Don't get hung up on display quality differences between the Panasonic 8UK's and the NEC's. The differences are minor and no 2 viewers are likely to agree on which is the better display. (There is SO MUCH hype going on with most of it being marketing noise and/or self justification for purchasing a more expensive product.) More importantly, when you bring your plasma home, it will look great and you won't have another plasma sitting next to it to do side by side comparisons. Believe me, you will regret not getting the biggest display that you can, provided it fits into your available space, doesn't overwhelm your room and you can afford the purchase financially.

Good luck with your decision.

I have always liked the 8UK, however, what still bothers me is the lack of a stretch mode for HD sources. I really want a plasma that allows me to watch as much as possible in full/just/zoom/etc. mode.

I have always liked the 8UK, however, what still bothers me is the lack of a stretch mode for HD sources. I really want a plasma that allows me to watch as much as possible in full/just/zoom/etc. mode.

The NEC will do that.

Forgive the very low resolutions of the attached photographs (TIVO of football game on DirecTV). I had to reduce the resolution in order to upload the photos and the image quality suffers greatly, especially the pictures of the plasma screen. (The pictures make the screen look VERY dull. Believe me, the screen is VERY vibrant in real life.) The side speakers actually produce good sound, especially because the Denon AV receiver compensates for the smaller speaker size by relying on a subwoofer for enhancing the base and the center channel speaker is a good size.

The cabinet below the plasma is not quite finished. (We're waiting on cabinet door hardware (pulls) and you may notice masking tape at the top of the 2 front doors that we're using for the time being to open the cabinet doors.) The cabinet doors slide into the cabinet after opening and the shelves are attached to a mechanism that slides forward about 2' and rotates 90 degrees in either direction for access to the back of components. The area between the 2 cabinet doors is where the center channel speaker is hidden, with the IR "eye" above. I also included a picture of one of the 2 side cabinet panels in its opened condition to show that the panels hide CD and DVD storage.
Love that cabinet. Is that an older cabinet your reworking or a new one? Did you do anything about the heat generated from all your components? I know my newer Onkyo receiver gets pretty hot.

The NEC will do that.

Thanx.

Love that cabinet. Is that an older cabinet your reworking or a new one? Did you do anything about the heat generated from all your components? I know my newer Onkyo receiver gets pretty hot.

Thanks, Sxsmithn....The cabinet is a custom design and is new. We did 3 things to address potential heat issues. The easy one was making the back of the cabinet as open as possible to allow heat to escape. We also made sure that air could flow in from the front of the cabinet - where the center channel speaker is located between the 2 doors - the molding used is a very open design. Finally, we installed 2 thermostatically controlled "silent" fans in the rear of the cabinet that automatically go on when and if the temperature inside the cabinet exceeds something like 90 degrees (I placed the temperature guage near the main Denon receiver as that is my "hottest" component and is always on whenever we use the plasma.). Thus far, they haven't had to turn on.

We tried to do a lot of planning in designing the cabinet, especially as we were confronting serious space limitations if we wanted the cabinet to sit in front of the plasma. (Although the room is quite large (21' x 21' or so), my wife wanted to plan the room based on placing the plasma on the angled wall in order to maximize seating and furniture/built-in placement.) Thus far, it seems to be working well for us, although it is still a pain in the neck to "play" with the components, especially when running cables from components on one side of the cabinet to those on the other side. While all cables are hidden inside the cabinet or in the wall, the view behind the components is pretty scary, if you know what I mean.

lipckr,
The 8UK actually does have a HD zoom mode. It is accessed by using the zoom button and not w/ the aspect button.
Just curious, why do you need a zoom or just mode for HD sources since they already fill the screen?

lipckr,
The 8UK actually does have a HD zoom mode. It is accessed by using the zoom button and not w/ the aspect button.
Just curious, why do you need a zoom or just mode for HD sources since they already fill the screen?

It's helpful for 4:3 programs which are upconverted. This includes all non-HD programming on most OTA stations i.e. local and network news, daytime programming, reality TV, 60 minutes, 20/20, etc.

Some cable boxes, STB's allow you to force downconvert so that the TV will recognize 480i/480p and allow you to stretch it but this can be a pain and it's much easier to simply stretch it at will.

lipckr,
The 8UK actually does have a HD zoom mode. It is accessed by using the zoom button and not w/ the aspect button.
Just curious, why do you need a zoom or just mode for HD sources since they already fill the screen?

Have you tested this?
I just did a test and yeah, it zooms in, but it zooms too much and cuts off a significant amount of the picture.

lipckr,
The 8UK actually does have a HD zoom mode. It is accessed by using the zoom button and not w/ the aspect button.
Just curious, why do you need a zoom or just mode for HD sources since they already fill the screen?

There are 4:3 programs on HD stations that show the black bars. Many people consider this lack of an option on the Panny to be a dealbreaker. The Pioneer has it as well as the Hitachi and Toshiba.

There are 4:3 programs on HD stations that show the black bars. Many people consider this lack of an option on the Panny to be a dealbreaker. The Pioneer has it as well as the Hitachi and Toshiba.

Run S-Video (480i) from the STB to the 8UK, then flip to input 1 when a HD station is showing SD content. This will give you full stretch, just mode capability.

Is it just the HDMI interface that has these limitations? I plan on using component from a STB for HD.

Is it just the HDMI interface that has these limitations? I plan on using component from a STB for HD.

The component feed will allow you to change aspect as long as you set the STB to "pass through" its signal without converting it to 720 or 1080i. Please note that , except as noted above, the panel will not adjust signals that are in 720 or 1080. Of course, you can always use the STB to tune to a non HDTV broadcast channel for the same source (regular ABC vs. HDTV ABC, for example) when viewing non-HDTV material. Most cable company STB's feed both. This offers a simple and elegant solution.

The issue all boils down to which button on which remote you want to push to get the result you need. You'll either change the channel on your STB to a non-HDTV channel feed or change the aspect ratio on the Monitor's remote. Regardless, you'll be pushing a button on something or other until everything goes HDTV eventually or until your panel is fully "broken in."

akpokey - that sounds like the solution i need for my setup. i plan on running a comcast stb to the 8uk for sd/hd. if i connect both a component and svideo i should be in good shape to be able to shape the picture as necessary. i also have a vga breakout cable and plan to hook my dvd up that way. does the vga input have any unique properties that i should know about (setting limitation, etc.)?

thanks.

akpokey - i also have a vga breakout cable and plan to hook my dvd up that way. does the vga input have any unique properties that i should know about (setting limitation, etc.)?

thanks.

Set the PC input to component in the setup menu and it behaves exactly like the standard component input.

Another hint:

Check each input for overscan - the factory setting on my standard component input was severe. Running native resolution from my OTA set top box, I had to settle for 2% overscan to compensate for the image size differences between 720p, 1080i and some variance between channels.

The overscan on my DVD to VGA input was less pronounced.

Anyone have a stand they would be willing to sell me?

Let me know.

Thanks, Michael

The issue all boils down to which button on which remote you want to push to get the result you need. You'll either change the channel on your STB to a non-HDTV channel feed or change the aspect ratio on the Monitor's remote. Regardless, you'll be pushing a button on something or other until everything goes HDTV eventually or until your panel is fully "broken in."

quick fix for MRS (million remote syndrome) ---> Harmony 880

Anyone have a stand they would be willing to sell me?

Let me know.

Thanks, Michael

Michael, I think Dewsky just posted that he has a stand he is looking to sell. you may want to PM him.

Take care

Thanks everyone, as usual, for the comments. I have my TH-50PHD8UK on order and hope to have it in the next couple of weeks! I'll post my experience after I get it setup.

My wife has been a good girl and I decided to get this set to use as a TV in our bedroom - since she likes to watch in there. We already have a dedicated HT with a front-projection Sony HS20 and an HTPC so this isn't really intended to be a full-blown theater. In fact, since it's our bedroom she doesn't want visible electronics at all (too bad :cool: ).

First, surround sound seems to be out as an option since we have cathedral ceilings and I don't want to have to run speaker wires. The wireless systems don't seem to have the quality that I'd be willing to cope with. So, that leaves me basically with a rather basic stereo speaker setup.

We don't want the official accessory speakers because we like the clean look of the TH-50PHD8UK (and that's why we bought it instead of the consumer model). For anyone that has the TH-50PHD8UK already, the operators manual states that only the "Panasonic optional accessory speaker" may be used with the set. Is this true and does it have a special connect or is it just a typical post?

If I need a powered receiver to drive the accessory speakers I'll need something I can hide away in the dresser or something. :eek: I was considering the Mirage Omnisat Micro's since they are small and won't stick-out in the bedroom and they also don't require a lot of power. Has anyone had experience with these and in stereo (rather than surround setup)?

If anyone has other ideas I'd appreciate it.

Thanks for the input guys!

The Cheese Will Look Fantastic!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks everyone, as usual, for the comments. I have my TH-50PHD8UK on order and hope to have it in the next couple of weeks! I'll post my experience after I get it setup.

My wife has been a good girl and I decided to get this set to use as a TV in our bedroom - since she likes to watch in there. We already have a dedicated HT with a front-projection Sony HS20 and an HTPC so this isn't really intended to be a full-blown theater. In fact, since it's our bedroom she doesn't want visible electronics at all (too bad :cool: ).

First, surround sound seems to be out as an option since we have cathedral ceilings and I don't want to have to run speaker wires. The wireless systems don't seem to have the quality that I'd be willing to cope with. So, that leaves me basically with a rather basic stereo speaker setup.

We don't want the official accessory speakers because we like the clean look of the TH-50PHD8UK (and that's why we bought it instead of the consumer model). For anyone that has the TH-50PHD8UK already, the operators manual states that only the "Panasonic optional accessory speaker" may be used with the set. Is this true and does it have a special connect or is it just a typical post?

If I need a powered receiver to drive the accessory speakers I'll need something I can hide away in the dresser or something. :eek: I was considering the Mirage Omnisat Micro's since they are small and won't stick-out in the bedroom and they also don't require a lot of power. Has anyone had experience with these and in stereo (rather than surround setup)?

If anyone has other ideas I'd appreciate it.

Thanks for the input guys!

mnn1265,
Have you thought about one of the new Yamaha sound projectors? My friend has the original and it works great. I'm thinking of getting the YSP-1000 when it comes down a little in price.

sixdonuts

Yes thanks for the idea, I actually have kicked around the idea of getting a YSP-800. It's reviews have been quite favorable though I'd really like to audition one before commiting to it. I'll look in my area to see if they have any.

A couple of the reviews I read commented that they were not very attractive. Now, I know that's subjective (and they look OK to me in the pictures) but I'm apprehensive to spend $900 for something that may not look right. I'm also slightly concerned that the YSP-800 is designed for the 42" and may look a bit small under the 50" set. Maybe that's being too picky but my wife insists on aesthetics before specs (not that it's easy for me to take).

I just recieved my 50phd8uk today and like you, we ordered the unit without speakers. Instead, I just hooked up a pair of bookshelf speakers that I got from Radio Shack years ago. The 8uk has an internal amplifier that broadcasts in stereo if hooked directly to the tv. It sounds great compared to the overpriced factory speakers. I saw where the manual said to use only factory speakers, but the 8 ohm connections are just the same as any reciever. We plan to begin the process of a home theater system as soon as we sort through the forum to find the best package.

Just stumbled across this thread and thought I would give it a read.

Just so happens I am installing a Panny 508uk in my bedroom with the YSP-1000 sound projector on friday. I decided on it over the other models because it is bigger and looks more symetrical with the 50 panny. It also comes in black which matches the frame of the panny 8uk. I do not desire to have a bedroom system to bother with so I just run my cable box and dvd player to the YSP-1000 and one set of cables to the plasma and voila, it does component video switching just like a receiver.

Furthermore, it acts as a complete set of speakers (L/R/C/RR/LR) in a single package. Even if it isnt perfect sounding ( I dont know yet) the problems associated with all of the wiring and 5 different speakers is a real pain in the ass, so I opted for a clean look and simplicity.

Dont hate, but the 508UK is coming down from my living room after only 2 months to be replaced with the 658UK.

Oh yeah, the playoffs in HD in 65 inches of glory!!

Without violating any forum rules, the price was under $1000 so, look around online or PM me for the vendor. It arrived in one day but, I am local in NYC/NJ.

I've been on pre-order for about a month for this through tvauthority.com

they tell me it could be a while longer. should I buy it from somewhere else? the only places that have it in stock have it for a lot more $$$

Is it worth it? or should I search for a better deal? wait it out for a 1080p 50"?

Also, the extended warranty at some places is a lot more than others. Is there a 3rd party that offers reliable extended coverage for this model? Panasonic does extended warranties but not for industrial models. I know that if I get the tv w/o a warranty, it'll break the day the 1 year expires. If I get the warranty, everything will probably be fine.

i've been waiting with a local distributor for just over a week and they expect my 8uk to come in a shipment before the end of January (sound of me holding my breath)... it actually ended up being less $$ for me when compared with the usual suspects, although it's not delivered to my door (i'm going to pick it up). you might be able to figure out something like this, depending on where you're located.

you "pulled the trigger" on the 8uk for a reason, i'd stay the course vs. re-enter the decision process again.

Also, the extended warranty at some places is a lot more than others. Is there a 3rd party that offers reliable extended coverage for this model? Panasonic does extended warranties but not for industrial models. I know that if I get the tv w/o a warranty, it'll break the day the 1 year expires. If I get the warranty, everything will probably be fine.

I ordered mine from VA with an American express. American Express will automatically double the manufacture warranty. So I ended up with 2 years of cover.

I've been on pre-order for about a month for this through tvauthority com

they tell me it could be a while longer. should I buy it from somewhere else? the only places that have it in stock have it for a lot more $$$

Is it worth it? or should I search for a better deal? wait it out for a 1080p 50"?

Hey man I'm in the same boat. I'm three weeks deep with TVA. I already have my HDMI + DVI cards and stand without the TV yet. The wait is KILLING me.

~Hooptie~

I just got an email from Digitally Unique (where I ordered mine) that they are cancelling my order due to lack of availability. (They originally set up the order for me and told me to expect shipment around Feb. 1 - now they are just cancelling.) So I started looking elsewhere - ran across Rainbow Tronics and USA PhotoNation - both had an incredible price. Appears to be a total scam. They start hard pressing you for accessories and warranties. I told them I was not interested as I already purchased elsewhere. The guy sounded real shady. When I asked how many TVs he had left he said 1. He was a real obvious liar (he clearly had either 0 and he was lying or he had a bunch and was lying).
:-(

USAPhotoNation is a sleazy-scam dealer, I made the mistake of buying a camera from them awhile back and they are the worst kind of Internet business. Scam, scam and more scam; not to mention scam.

I'm also in line with TVA for my 508UK... they have a good reputation and also offer AVS members a special pixel warrentee - free replacement with even one bad pixel. I think it's worth the wait to get something like this from a reputable dealer with a good track record. Can't wait!

Thanks for the info on the Yamaha YSP-1000! I'll look more into that possiblity.

fourtrack, thanks for the comments on the speaker setup with the 8UK, that should help a lot.

Hey man I'm in the same boat. I'm three weeks deep with TVA. I already have my HDMI + DVI cards and stand without the TV yet. The wait is KILLING me.

~Hooptie~


yeah, same here. I haven't opened any of it yet, just in case. I did order one but I have a feeling that by the time it goes through, it'll either be out of stock or late 2009.

I got jerked around by a NY camara shop for a month. Finally ordered thru VA
on 12-16. I got it 1-10. Made in Japan in December

anyone know if there's an 8th gen version of the hdmi card? I can ony find one that's for the 7th. (TY FB7HM) I assume they're compatible or there hasn't been an 8th gen version since panny's site only lists the 7.

anyone know if there's an 8th gen version of the hdmi card? I can ony find one that's for the 7th. (TY FB7HM) I assume they're compatible or there hasn't been an 8th gen version since panny's site only lists the 7.

there is - TY FB8HM& tigerdirect.ca is selling it
but there is NO major difference between 7th & 8th generations for the card except few additional supporteb modes all of which are extended PAL modes.

there is - TY FB8HM& tigerdirect.ca is selling it
but there is NO major difference between 7th & 8th generations for the card except few additional supporteb modes all of which are extended PAL modes.


good to know. I had just ordered the 7th model and thought I was going to have to cancel it. The only places that seemed to be selling the 8 model were in Canada/Europe, so the PAL thing would make sense.

thanks for the help

Thinking about getting a new progressive DVD player to use with this display but keep hearing conflicting horror stories about these Panny plasmas being notorious for macroblocking with DVD players with the Faroujda chipset (Oppo, Panny S97, Denon 1920, others).

What DVD players are you using that DO NOT display macroblocking on this (GREAT!) 8uk display? What is your DVD player and how is it hooked up to the 8uk? It would be nice to hear about the DVD players that DO work well with it versus the ones that do not...(Sony or Samsung perhaps???)...With the Panny S97, for example, is the macroblocking really that bad with this set? This was the player I was leaning towards but all the macroblocking talk caused me to hesitate....Any input from those that actually own the 8uk and are or are not experiencing any problems would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Thinking about getting a new progressive DVD player to use with this display but keep hearing conflicting horror stories about these Panny plasmas being notorious for macroblocking with DVD players with the Faroujda chipset (Oppo, Panny S97, Denon 1920, others).

What DVD players are you using that DO NOT display macroblocking on this (GREAT!) 8uk display? What is your DVD player and how is it hooked up to the 8uk? It would be nice to hear about the DVD players that DO work well with it versus the ones that do not...(Sony or Samsung perhaps???)...With the Panny S97, for example, is the macroblocking really that bad with this set? This was the player I was leaning towards but all the macroblocking talk caused me to hesitate....Any input from those that actually own the 8uk and are or are not experiencing any problems would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
I use an OLD Sanyo DWM-370 DVD player. It is NOT progressive, 480i only.
I have it hooked up via component cables to the 50PHD8UK component input using the cheap component cable I got from Comcast (my STB is hooked up via DVI-D). I set the 3:2 pulldown ON for the component input (NR is OFF), and it looks great to me. I think the TV does a great jub of de-interlacing / 3:2 pulldown, and all you need is a basic non-progressive DVD player with component output. I would not spend a ton of money now, wait for the new HD DVD formats to sort out and save your money for the winner in that format war.

I got the Toshiba up-convert using HDMI. It is under a $100 and I have had no
issues. The HD-DVD use HDMI.

ok, so I've got my hdmi card in slot 1 and nothing using 2 or 3. I wanted to connect my dvd player (old model), xbox, N64 to my receiver and then use component out to the tv (in slot 2). I have the component cable but not the bnc adapter (never even heard of it before).

Where can I get them?

I've searched a few places but wasn't exactly sure what to search for. I've had a lot of success with monoprice, so I'd prefer to order from them. Am I even looking for the right thing? Thanks

Also, when using hdmi from cable box to hdmi card, the only aspect available is "full"


When I repeatedly press "aspect" on the remote, it only says "full." Shouldn't I be able to change that as well?

I got my BNC adaptors from monoprice. The were cheap and the were shipped quickly. They are now just sitting in an envelope waiting for a TV to arrive!

ok, so I've got my hdmi card in slot 1 and nothing using 2 or 3. I wanted to connect my dvd player (old model), xbox, N64 to my receiver and then use component out to the tv (in slot 2). I have the component cable but not the bnc adapter (never even heard of it before).

Where can I get them?

I've searched a few places but wasn't exactly sure what to search for. I've had a lot of success with monoprice, so I'd prefer to order from them. Am I even looking for the right thing? Thanks

Any Radio Shack or local high-end A/V store should have them. Got mine locally for $2 or $3 each.

Hi guys,

I just took delivery of my brand new Panasonic TH-50PHD8UK plasma set a couple of days ago. Like you all I did my research and was initially very happy with this set! I started my burn in routine and when I turned my surround speakers off to let the tv display content at low contrast and brightness settings I heard an electric kind of buzz. It was subtle but this was sitting 14' away! I went over to the TV and sure enough there is a constant buzzing coming from the centre or lower centre of the back panel. Standing by the set it is very noticable.

I had read that the Panny's were quite and that was one reason I chose a Panasonic. I've tried unplugging other equipment and everything I could think of will not make the buzz go away.

Now for the big question, is this normal?? I would hate to return it after all the setup and unpacking etc... and i'd hate to get another set that buzzed after doing all of that.

Your comments on your own sets would be greatly appreciated!

Andrew

Also, when using hdmi from cable box to hdmi card, the only aspect available is "full"


When I repeatedly press "aspect" on the remote, it only says "full." Shouldn't I be able to change that as well?


anyone know what's going on here?

anyone know what's going on here?
Sounds like a ground looping issue.

Sounds like a ground looping issue.


what's that?

The power supplies in plasma sets, working at higher altitudes, have to work harder to generate the voltage for the picture and can make some noise like a buzz. Where are you located? A ground loop would make a 60 cycle "hum" and this is probably not your problem. Could the noise be a cooling fan in operation?

yeah, there's no "humming" or any sound coming out of my set. I think sxsmithn quoted me instead of the other post.

Oops. Wrong quote... Anyway, A ground loop issue is when your third prong on your house power is not properly grounded. This can either be a bad connection or interference on the line.

I'm using my 50phd8uk with my scientific atlanta 8300HD dvr. Is there any way to use my comcast remote for the tv also (for powering on/off). I haven't been able to figure that out yet. Thanks

also, how does a brother access the secret menus?

also, how does a brother access the secret menus?You should be able to find it here:


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=622573

Quick question, which admittedly may be better suited elsewhere, but since I want to order (as soon as I decide the size) an 8UK I thought I'd ask the group who actually watches these at home every day. Our seating position will put us no more than 7.5 feet away from the screen. Since I want the 8UK series I was going to select the 37" (based on a screen size vs. distance calculator I found online..Crutchfield I think [I'm a NOOB])... it actually recommended something smaller...but since that's the smallest choice...

However, of course my general male brain says bigger is better, then add in the 42" is actually a little cheaper. Does anyone sit this close to a 42"? Will it lose some of the awesome clarity that I read about?? I can't find one locally or I'd go stand in front of the 2 with a measuring tape and decide myself.

Thanks for any help.

Rob

if the 42" is cheaper there is absolutely no way i would get the 37"

i can't think of a single reason to get the 37" (i.e. I think a 42" would look awesome with a sitting distance of 7.5')

get the 42!

I generally agree... however in looking at another model (Sony Bravia LCD...before I found out about the 8UK) I was in the store looking at the 32" and I think it was 47" side by side and the 47" looked a little "grainier" to me (approximated distance that day). I know that comparing different displays to one I haven't seen is dumb... but that super sharp "looking through the window" picture is what is most important to me. On the flip side, this is a small bedroom that is being turned into a tiny "media room" which will only have the TV, some theater seats, speakers and some memorabilia on the wall... so I don't want it to be so small it loses the effect. I want the best compromise between the "at the movies" effect of great picture and sound (and large picture) and clarity...with my priority on clarity.

It will mostly be used for watching DVD's, a small amount of XBOX 360, an occasional football game, and UFC pay per view events (not sure if they're broadcast in HD....haven't had cable in years).

I really think that without the smaller screen there next to it (looking crisper) the 42" will be amazing and impressive. In fact I'm probably going with that size unless someone here has some experience with that size/seating distance and says "don't do it".

Thanks for the input.

Rob

Thanks for the info. I've notified the company I bought the set from and they are trying to sort out a replacement for me. I'm anxiously awaiting the delivery of a new set and hoping it's quiet!

I think I'm gonna cry. I just talked to TVauthority and they said I'm number 40 on the waiting list for the 8UK. They only receive about 6-10 per week and they haven't gotten any in the last two weeks. So if panni gets back on track I'll be waiting until the end of Feb to get this TV. I placed my pre -order 12/28/05.

Now the question is should I continue waiting, get a the NEC 50xr5, or go for the 9th gen panni plasmas when they come out (I guess switch my waiting till those TV's come out).

~hooptie~

Going to get the TH-50PHD8UK for sure :)

Question- I am a D* subscriber and I am going to go HD with the HR10-250 Tivo unit (specs here - http://webpages.charter.net/citro/HD_DVR.pdf)

I am going to add a good DVDR with HD like a RD-XS34, DMR-E85HS, or DVR-633HS (haven't decided which one yet, and I think will also be my primary DVD player)

BUT - my biggest problem I think is my HT receiver. It's a Sony STRK502P (specs here - http://webpages.charter.net/citro/STRK502P.PDF ) Look at page 5-8 for hookups. This receiver has digital audio, but NO HDMI

So - When I drop the coin on the set, HDDVR Tivo, DVDR w/HD....will I have to replace the Sony receiver? Or, will it work OK? (yes I know HDMI is the best connection)

Also, best way to setup that combo?
I imagine-
hr10-250 - to- Sony Receiver - to- 50PHD
DVDR HD - to - Sony Receiver - to - 50PHD

So the Sony receiver is always in the middle here. Will it suck with that receiver?
Also, will it suck because the DVDR isn't the best player?

TIA

TTT
anybody??

I can't believe nobody has an opinion on this even to say....this is how I would wire it....or that receiver is OK...or it sucks and it won't work well?

Nada? :)

It sucks! OK? :)

Now "an" answer to your question -
I have the same monitor.
I hook my DVD players and my STB for COX HD directly into the unit.
Simple.
Skip the receiver, unless you just feel like spending money.
If you do then buy a Denon.

DEFman

Good Advice ! DEFman obviously is not DEAF.

It sucks! OK? :)

Now "an" answer to your question -
I have the same monitor.
I hook my DVD players and my STB for COX HD directly into the unit.
Simple.
Skip the receiver, unless you just feel like spending money.
If you do then buy a Denon.

DEFman

uhhh...maybe I'm just stupid....but without the receiver how will I hear anything I'm watching??? :rolleyes:

uhhh...maybe I'm just stupid....but without the receiver how will I hear anything I'm watching??? :rolleyes:

Actually, each input accepts sound and use optional speakers connected to the panel. I do that with my 4UY.

-- Rich

I can't believe nobody has an opinion on this even to say....this is how I would wire it....or that receiver is OK...or it sucks and it won't work well?

Nada? :)

Bring either digital coaxial out or toslink out from each of the components to the receiver. You then will have to switch the audio through the receiver. Alternatively, you could bring HDMI directly to the pdp and use speakers attached to the display, but the digital ouputs and the audio part of the HDMI connection may not be simultaneously active and I think you have to select which you want through the HR10-250. You'll need digital coaxial out or toslink out to the receiver for 5.1.

Personally, I'd go with the DVI blade. It has an analog audio input so you could do both simultaneously if you want. This isn't the only reason to get the DVI blade either. DVI is more forgiving in accepting a wider range of resolutions including native rate.

Don't switch the video through the receiver whatever you do.

I've been reading up on this unit and have my credit card out but I was wondering if I could ask a few questions to the those who have this TH-50PHD8UK unit currently?

1) I've read that you cannot change the aspect ration in HDTV feeds. What does this really mean, and does it matter that much?

2) I don't plan to get HDTV for a short while and have DirecTV. Will normal TV shows coming across look terrible or no? I used to have a 16:9 LCD TV and sold it because the picture was just distorted on 4:3 SDTV shows. This was also 5 years ago.

3) I currently feed my old TV with RGB Component using 50' of cable. It doesn't appear that I am losing quality but I'm worried it will stand out on this unit. My AV cabinet is across the room from my actual TV location.

Thank you guys VERY MUCH!!

Rick

Bring either digital coaxial out or toslink out from each of the components to the receiver. You then will have to switch the audio through the receiver. Alternatively, you could bring HDMI directly to the pdp and use speakers attached to the display, but the digital ouputs and the audio part of the HDMI connection may not be simultaneously active and I think you have to select which you want through the HR10-250. You'll need digital coaxial out or toslink out to the receiver for 5.1.

Personally, I'd go with the DVI blade. It has an analog audio input so you could do both simultaneously if you want. This isn't the only reason to get the DVI blade either. DVI is more forgiving in accepting a wider range of resolutions including native rate.

Don't switch the video through the receiver whatever you do.

so, your saying that from my VCR, DVDR, and STB you should go DIRECTLY to the plasma and NOT through the receiver, correct? Is it possible to connect them to both the plasma AND the receiver at the same time? I didn't think there were enough outputs to do this, no?

you said -"Bring either digital coaxial out or toslink out from each of the components to the receiver" OK, so now all the outputs from each component are hooked into inputs on the receiver (STB, DVD, VCR, etc) That's the way I have my SD setup now.

then you say- "Don't switch the video through the receiver whatever you do" OK, well if all the components are already into the receiver, how is that accomplished?

I'm sorry, but I'm REAL confused here.

Digital coaxial out or toslink out will only provide audio through the receiver. The video will be connected directly from the video sources to the panel via component or DVI or HDMI, etc.

starlinxinternet,
I wouldn't recommend a HD TV if you don’t have an HDTV signal. Garbage in Garbage out.

To answer your first question I actually asked the same thing and this is how cpcat answered earlier in the thread:

"It's helpful for 4:3 programs which are up converted. This includes all non-HD programming on most OTA stations i.e. local and network news, daytime programming, reality TV, 60 minutes, 20/20, etc.

Some cable boxes, STB's allow you to force down convert so that the TV will recognize 480i/480p and allow you to stretch it but this can be a pain and it's much easier to simply stretch it at will. "

My personal preference to watch HD programs in the 4:3 format because IMHO they look best that way (again garbage in garbage out) and I rarely watch non HD programming with the exception of DVD's (all of the sports and public television and primetime shows I watch are provided in HD through Comcast in my area). Others would disagree and prefer to have 4:3 HD programming scaled.

In addition keep in mind more programming is being produced in HD every day.

For question 2 I would have to say this definitely personal opinion but here is my two cents:
DVD's look good (even scaled w/ 50UK), digital SD content looks ok (scaled or not), analog SD looks horrible (even not scaled).

Keep in mind that a HD TV is designed for an HDTV signal. Even if you purchase a very expensive up converter it won't be able to make up for a poor quality SD signal it will just scale it to fill the screen - it can't add information that isn't there in the first place. An upconverted SD picture can't begin to compare to a true 1080i or 720p HD picture supplied by an over the air network, cable provider, or computer.

Question 3 - RGB works great and is almost indistinguishable from a digital connection. In my experience digital is a little sharper but their are more tweakable picture settings available for the RGB connection.

sixdonuts

so, your saying that from my VCR, DVDR, and STB you should go DIRECTLY to the plasma and NOT through the receiver, correct? Is it possible to connect them to both the plasma AND the receiver at the same time? I didn't think there were enough outputs to do this, no?

you said -"Bring either digital coaxial out or toslink out from each of the components to the receiver" OK, so now all the outputs from each component are hooked into inputs on the receiver (STB, DVD, VCR, etc) That's the way I have my SD setup now.

then you say- "Don't switch the video through the receiver whatever you do" OK, well if all the components are already into the receiver, how is that accomplished?

I'm sorry, but I'm REAL confused here.


Connect your source (DVD, STB, etc.) video outputs directly to the TV.
Connect the source audio outputs directly to your receiver.
When you want to watch DVDs you select the appropriate inputs on the TV and the receiver.

For example:
cable TV = (TV) video input 1, (Receiver) audio input 4
DVD = (TV) video input 2, (Receiver) audio input 2

OK?

so, your saying that from my VCR, DVDR, and STB you should go DIRECTLY to the plasma and NOT through the receiver, correct? Is it possible to connect them to both the plasma AND the receiver at the same time? I didn't think there were enough outputs to do this, no?

you said -"Bring either digital coaxial out or toslink out from each of the components to the receiver" OK, so now all the outputs from each component are hooked into inputs on the receiver (STB, DVD, VCR, etc) That's the way I have my SD setup now.

then you say- "Don't switch the video through the receiver whatever you do" OK, well if all the components are already into the receiver, how is that accomplished?

I'm sorry, but I'm REAL confused here.


Connect your source (DVD, STB, etc.) video outputs directly to the TV.
Connect the source audio outputs directly to your receiver.
When you want to watch DVDs you select the appropriate inputs on the TV and the receiver.

For example:
cable TV = (TV) video input 1, (Receiver) audio input 4
DVD = (TV) video input 2, (Receiver) audio input 2

OK?

Connect your source (DVD, STB, etc.) video outputs directly to the TV.
Connect the source audio outputs directly to your receiver.
When you want to watch DVDs you select the appropriate inputs on the TV and the receiver.

For example:
cable TV = (TV) video input 1, (Receiver) audio input 4
DVD = (TV) video input 2, (Receiver) audio input 2

OK?

I got the idea, yes. but with the TH-50PHD8UK, RD-XS34, HR10-250, VCR, PS2, and the receiver STRK502P what kind of cables do I need to buy now and what TYPES of connections can I make to best optimize this setup?

I think the best way is the following-
STB (HR10-250) - HDMI cable (means I have to order an extra board I think?) to - TH-50

RD-XS34 - RCA? component? S-Video? buy another HDMI slot? - to - TH-50PH

How many thing can I directly wire to the TH-50? what about the VCR and my PS2?
The receiver has 2 digital audio IN via optical cable, which is great.

I guess you will have to decide how to hook the 2 main items (STB/DVD) to the display and then run a 3rd input from the reciver for a VCR/PS2?

I'm trying to map this all out so I can have all my cables ready and know HOW I'm going to connect everything. Also, I want to hook the STB (Tivo) up to my DVDR so that I can dump recordings to the DVDR HD, EDIT....then burn DVDRs.

Yikes....this is confusing to me (sorry)....Need help please and thanks again!

Personally, I'd go with the DVI blade. It has an analog audio input so you could do both simultaneously if you want. This isn't the only reason to get the DVI blade either. DVI is more forgiving in accepting a wider range of resolutions including native rate.

Don't switch the video through the receiver whatever you do.
Isn't DVI the same as HDMI but without the audio? How is it more "forgiving"? A wider range of resolutions? Native rate? Huh? Sounds like Greek to me.

I'm getting the Denon 4306 AVR to use with the 50PHD8UK. Analog audio is not a factor at all... And, why should I (whatever I do) NOT switch the video? The point of buying a $2000 av receiver is so that I CAN use it to switch the video and handle the audio. Maybe you can explain your warnings/suggestions?

"Forgive me" but if my HD sources utilize HDMI outputs why would adapting these to DVI be advantageous or forgiving. Where can one go to learn the basics of HDMI and DVI? Do I have to learn Greek?

:)

Thanks! TechoFobe

Isn't DVI the same as HDMI but without the audio? How is it more "forgiving"? A wider range of resolutions? Native rate? Huh? Sounds like Greek to me.

I'm getting the Denon 4306 AVR to use with the 50PHD8UK. Analog audio is not a factor at all... And, why should I (whatever I do) NOT switch the video? The point of buying a $2000 av receiver is so that I CAN use it to switch the video and handle the audio. Maybe you can explain your warnings/suggestions?

"Forgive me" but if my HD sources utilize HDMI outputs why would adapting these to DVI be advantageous or forgiving. Where can one go to learn the basics of HDMI and DVI? Do I have to learn Greek?

:)

Thanks! TechoFobe
I've got that receiver and use it with a 65" 8UK. Because I have a pretty complicated set-up (DVD, DirecTV, Digital Cable STB, VCR, etc., etc.), I wanted to take advantage of the HDMI switching. I've been able to do that without seeing any degradation in signal quality (most experts state that digital signals should not degrade if digital cable runs are modest in length and connectors are of high quality), but not without experiencing some problems that you need to be aware of. In particular, many STB's (including Scientific Atlanta and Motorola) will not allow HDMI switching. The problem appears to lie in the STB's and not the Denon and has to do with the STB's inability to distinguish a "repeater" from something that could result in illegal copyright infringement. The DirecTV receiver does not have this problem, nor does my DVD player or the VCR (the latter don't because they're not HDTV capable and this issue is limited to HD material, if I'm not mistaken). There may be some other indiosyncrasies that you'll confront but they're not insurmountable. In the end, I'm sure that you'll agree that it works for the most part and you'll be happy with the Denon. (Note that I use digital optical cables for audio and do not rely on HDMI for that.)

Bottom line: Use 2 HDMI blades in your 8UK if you're planning on connecting digital cable. Also, you may want to consider DVI as it does offer some additional signal flexibility because the present HDMI standard does not support 1080p.

Please feel free to PM me if I can be of further assistance.

Interested in purchasing an industrial panasonic plasma. Want to go 50 inches, but was wondering if there was a noticable screen door effect within 6 feet. I have my couch at 7 feet, but I routinely have people over sitting on the floor in front of the couch. I also sit on the floor for multiplayer gaming on xbox.

Interested in purchasing an industrial panasonic plasma. Want to go 50 inches, but was wondering if there was a noticable screen door effect within 6 feet. I have my couch at 7 feet, but I routinely have people over sitting on the floor in front of the couch. I also sit on the floor for multiplayer gaming on xbox.

Short answer on my 65" 8UK: No. Can't speak to the 50" but would assume it could only be better. This answer assumes HDMI connection.

I've got the 50 and 6' is no problem. You need to be about 3 feet to see any screen door effect.

(connection is hdmi from hd cable box to hdmi slot)

thanks jsf2001 and ojready. I will be ordering the 50" one pretty soon. Just wanted to make sure about SDE. I've heard nothing but good things about industrial panasonic commercial plasmas.

thanks jsf2001 and ojready. I will be ordering the 50" one pretty soon. Just wanted to make sure about SDE. I've heard nothing but good things about industrial panasonic commercial plasmas.

Good luck with the purchase. From what I understand, however, the commercial Pannys may be difficult to find these days. Most sources have been sold out for quite some time and resellers are not sure when new stock will arrive, if at all. If you do confront that problem, you have at least 2 very viable alternatives (NEC and Pioneer) that you should consider. All 3 (Panny, Pioneer and NEC) manufacture stellar displays. (I'm not including Fujitsu in this mix as they tend to be priced a bit higher than what you may be looking for.)

newegg.com has them in stock, but raised the price by about $300 since they're so hard to come by. I'd bet that when these models were in stock elsewhere, newegg probaby had them for about $700 less than they do now. I thought newegg was better than that....

Isn't DVI the same as HDMI but without the audio? How is it more "forgiving"? A wider range of resolutions? Native rate? Huh? Sounds like Greek to me.

I'm getting the Denon 4306 AVR to use with the 50PHD8UK. Analog audio is not a factor at all... And, why should I (whatever I do) NOT switch the video? The point of buying a $2000 av receiver is so that I CAN use it to switch the video and handle the audio. Maybe you can explain your warnings/suggestions?

"Forgive me" but if my HD sources utilize HDMI outputs why would adapting these to DVI be advantageous or forgiving. Where can one go to learn the basics of HDMI and DVI? Do I have to learn Greek?

:)

Thanks! TechoFobe


The more you learn, the less Greek you'll hear. :)

HMDI in it's current form is spec'd primarily for ATSC resolutions. This doesn't include native rate for the panel or 1080p60 which may be useful for Blue-Ray DVD. Although the Panny may not support 1080p60 over DVI, it does do 1080p24 which is the native form for Blue-Ray. HDMI will not. Native rate support is mandatory if you ever want to use a video processor or HTPC.

Many HT receivers will not have the bandwidth required to perform video switching for HD sources. Try it if you want, but I bet you'll like it better straight to the set.

Good luck with the purchase. From what I understand, however, the commercial Pannys may be difficult to find these days. Most sources have been sold out for quite some time and resellers are not sure when new stock will arrive, if at all. If you do confront that problem, you have at least 2 very viable alternatives (NEC and Pioneer) that you should consider. All 3 (Panny, Pioneer and NEC) manufacture stellar displays. (I'm not including Fujitsu in this mix as they tend to be priced a bit higher than what you may be looking for.)



FWIW... I spoke with a Panny distributor today and they're not expecting a new shipment of the 8uk's until the end of this month (at the earliest). Most likely won't see them until mid-march... :(

It sucks! OK? :)

Now "an" answer to your question -
I have the same monitor.
I hook my DVD players and my STB for COX HD directly into the unit.
Simple.
Skip the receiver, unless you just feel like spending money.
If you do then buy a Denon.

DEFman

Yes Denon is good, but not at all price points, nor is it the best bang for the buck. I've owned Denon before and loved it, but it ain't the only player in the game. I thoroughly tested 3 Denon, 2 Onkyo, and a Marantz receiver for my current setup. My Onkyo hands down won the battle for overall audio quality and features on my setup. It also came in substantially cheaper than the comparable Denon model and with better performance.

There are other options. This blind following of Denon is like a disease at times. Like Zach De la Roca said, "Wake up, wake up, waaaaaaaaake up!!!!"

Haller: That is of course an "Opinion", you could still be sleeping ;) LOL

Anybody wall mounting this?

I'm looking for a tight mount (closest possible) with no need to angle it - it'll only be a few feet off the floor. I've built a room with 2x4's lined up like soldiers behind the drywall (less a passage in the middle for the wires) - hitting a stud won't be a problem ;)

Any recommendations? Panasonic'$$$$ model or Univer$al?

Thanks!

FWIW... I spoke with a Panny distributor today and they're not expecting a new shipment of the 8uk's until the end of this month (at the earliest). Most likely won't see them until mid-march... :(
Yeah, very hard to come-by. I've been waiting with TVA for over a month and still no word. I may have to reconsider waiting for the 8uk. It's surprising that a TV manufacturer would be this far behind in manufacturing when they have a hot model in demand. I suppose they just can't make enough to fill demand.

I believe the Sanus VMPL2 wall mount will work well. It puts the back of the panel 1.25" away from the wall. The Omnimount 54FBHD-F looks like a good mount, but the distance from the wall will be 2.4". There's also the Peerless SF660 that put's the panel 1.18" away from the wall. I think any of these mounts would be good. What has everyone else used and why?

What is the difference between the Panny TH-50PHD models - 8UK, 7UY and 6UY? All seem to be priced fairly similarly. Difficult to tell the difference by looking at the specs.

Do these all come standard with speakers and TV tuners?

they're all the same TV - just different "generations" - the 8UK is the newest version. this is the commercial version - no tuner, no speakers.

So if the Panasonic TH-50PHD models are the commercial versions, without speakers or tuners, are the TH-50PX models the consumer versions?

generally speaking, yes - although PHD and PX both mean the same thing (Plasma HD Display)

You may want to check out the "Panasonic Plasma FAQ - Read First! (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=407154)" thread - it has a wealth of information to sort through the confusion. :)

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=407154

Thanks for the good feedback so far. I did look at the commercial vs. consumer FAQ thread but I still have questions.

I am seriously considering either the consumer version of the 50” (TH-50PX50U) or the commercial version. The price difference makes me lean in favor of the commercial version as well as that the fact that I like the sleek look of it better than the consumer one.

I am not as familiar with the commercial version, however, since I have only been able to see the consumer one.

What I am trying to identify (and cost out) are what things I will need to add to the commercial version.

The main things it lacks are a TV tuner and speakers, correct?

I cannot imagine ever using the screen without it being attached to cable so that should not be a problem?

Even without the tuner, the unit still has a full-function remote control?

It has PIP capability? Do I need to split the cable feed for it to do PIP?

I have a sound system in my condo over which I can play TV sound. Even though the commercial model comes without speakers, you can hook up external speakers, correct? How do the speakers connect? From the FAQ thread, it indicates that it has BNC connectors as opposed to RCA connectors.

Finally, are there any other considerations about having a commercial model as opposed to a consumer one? I thought I heard that you have to get an external power supply?

Does it have a cable card slot? If no, it has to be used with a cable box?

Thanks for the info.

I'm researching a purchase of the 50phd8uk for my brother-in-law. Only thing left is a question of hooking up to a receiver. He purchased a Harman Kardon avr 340 but hasn't taken it out of the box. It doesn't look like it's got HDMI input/output and also lacks DVI. I'm thinking of suggesting another receiver.

Does anyone have any suggestions regarding a decent receiver to hook up to the panny plasma? Hopefully $500-$1000 in price. Or should he just use the avr 340?

Inputs/outputs for the avr 340 are as follows:

Rear Input Connectors RCA (2 Audio Channels) x 6 • Digital Coaxial x 3 • Digital Optical x 3 • Composite (Video) x 4 • S-Video x 4 • Component x 2

Rear Output Connectors RCA (2 Audio Channels) x 3 • Digital Coaxial x 1 • Digital Optical x 1 • Composite (Video) x 3 • S-Video x 3 • Component x 1

Front A/V Connections Coaxial x 1 • Composite x 1 • Couple RCA Jack x 1 • Headphones x 1 • Optical x 1 • S-Video x 1

Thanks in advance for the help!

Mangelo

what about something like the PANASONIC SA-XR70S

Here's the back:

http://im2.onecall.com/Image_Products/panasonic/saxr70srear.jpg

the XR-70S doesn't upscale or switch the HDMI however. :mad:
(which I assume to mean that whatever signal goes into the receiver, like 480i or p from a dvd player will come out as 480....period)

I too am looking into this but I have found that the native resolution of the TH50 is 1366 x 768, which is neither 720 or 1080, so the sets scaler will have to adjust it anyways. Trying to get the maximum signal directly to the set requires a receiver like a Yamaha RX-V2600 which switches. Although....why waste the $ on it when the signal will be scaled by the set anyways?

I'm begining to think the best way to run the TH50PHD8UK is to run ALL video to it directly and simply use a receiver for audio ONLY. So, that being said...as long as you use a receiver with at least component video output for other devices like a PS2 or VCR and hook up the DVD and STB directly to the set you'll be OK....I think (still learning here also)

My plan so far-
1) find set (nobody has them currently)
2) order at least 1 HDMI blade for my STB (HR10-250)
3) maybe order a 2nd HDMI blade for a good dvd player (like a S97)
4) hook up my DVDR HD, PS2, VCR through a decent receiver with component outputs and switch the audio/video seperately with the tv and rec

You can run 3 different inputs with the TH50....correct? (everything I've read seems to support this) i.e.. STB/DVD/REC (HDMI/HDMI/component) and simply select the input with the tv remote, then select the audio with rec remote. RIGHT??? :o :D

{1} What I am trying to identify (and cost out) are what things I will need to add to the commercial version. The main things it lacks are a TV tuner and speakers, correct? I cannot imagine ever using the screen without it being attached to cable so that should not be a problem?

{2}Even without the tuner, the unit still has a full-function remote control?

{3}It has PIP capability? Do I need to split the cable feed for it to do PIP?

{4}I have a sound system in my condo over which I can play TV sound. Even though the commercial model comes without speakers, you can hook up external speakers, correct? How do the speakers connect? From the FAQ thread, it indicates that it has BNC connectors as opposed to RCA connectors.

{5}Finally, are there any other considerations about having a commercial model as opposed to a consumer one? I thought I heard that you have to get an external power supply?

{6}Does it have a cable card slot? If no, it has to be used with a cable box?

My 50PHD8UK is still on pre-order from TV Authority so anything I say should be taken with a large grain of salt...

{1} It is a "monitor" only or in other words, tuner-less. This just means that you must have a receiver to supply a signal to the monitor. You can use any receiver like a standard cable box or a DirecTV satelite receiver. But, I've heard that it is silly NOT to connect a high-definition receiver to a plasma screen; once again either a HD cable box or a HD satelite receiver. You could also utilize a separate HD set-top-box (receiver) if you have local signals broadcast over-the-air (with an antenna). I'm under the impression that a "tuner" would basically be useful if you wanted to connect a TV directly to an antenna... I don't, desire to do this --- so paying extra to get a set with a tuner would be a total waste for me. You evidently plan on connecting via a cable company's box which will work perfectly with the PHD8UK without a built-in tuner.

{2} Yes, it has a full-function remote control. I plan to use a Logitech Harmony remote because it will do everything instead of having to juggle a half dozen (or more) remotes like I do now... But the remote that comes with the Panasonic is reportedly very nicely designed.

{3} To use PIP requires multiple inputs. If you are watching Delinquent Housewives using your HD cable box, you would need a DIFFERENT signal source for a second input --- unless you wanted a PIP of the same program. Personally, I have never been a fan of PIP. I can only process one thing at a time. :)

{4} The cable box (or DVD, or VCR, or whatever) will have audio outputs. You connect these into your audio receiver (preferably using optical if you have that ability --- this lets you receive digital audio or dolby). Then, you select the audio from your cable box and listen to the audio on your existing speakers that are now connected to your sound system. No need to run ANY audio signals to the monitor. Do you have a sound system that does dolby (surround sound)? If not you might really want to consider that. Although, it might be illegal to use that in a condo. The condo police will get really mad if you watch NASCAR and "crank it up". But, played at sensible (what is that) levels all should be fine?

{5} Nope. That's not correct.

{6} There's no cable card on the PHD8UK. And, yes, a cable box will do the job nicely.

{3} To use PIP requires multiple inputs. If you are watching Delinquent Housewives using your HD cable box, you would need a DIFFERENT signal source for a second input --- unless you wanted a PIP of the same program. Personally, I have never been a fan of PIP. I can only process one thing at a time. :)



So even if I have the cable company's DVR which comes with two tuners, I still can't watch PIP of two channels - unless I have another cable box?

If PIP is important to me (which I still need to think about...), I may want to reconsider a plasma that includes a tuner so I could watch one show off the DVR and one channel using the plasma's built-in tuner?

Thanks!

I have 1 hd dvr cable box and it has PIP (two tuners within the 1 box). I think this is the standard nowadays with hd dvrs and modern cable boxes.

I have 1 hd dvr cable box and it has PIP (two tuners within the 1 box). I think this is the standard nowadays with hd dvrs and modern cable boxes.

Are you sure that you can access both tuners at the same time? I thought there was just one output and you had to choose what tuner you want to view from the box... I'm probably wrong...

I have a DirecTiVo (dvr) with dual tuners and I can watch either one tuner, or the other tuner or something that you previously recorded while you're recording two programs at the same time. But I can't watch both tuners at once. There are two outputs but that is for connecting to two different TVs.

Off topic: how many hours of HD programming can you record with a cable box DVR?

My 50PHD8UK is being shipped from TVA today. Their representative said that they are shipping large number of units in the next few days. Now questions:
- would Sanus VMPL2 be a best mount for the unit (please share what you people use)?
- would DVI extension card be better than HDMI for this unit in terms of usability (I have DirectTV STB with HDMI output)?

Many thanks to you who participate in this forums! I'll be sharing my impressions with you soon.

izm_ka,

When did you place yourself on TVA's waiting list?

I just talked to TVA. They told me that izm_ka is making up stories. They have no 50PHD8UKs in, nor have they sent any recently, nor do they know when they are getting more.

Oh well.

I just talked to TVA. They told me that izm_ka is making up stories. They have no 50PHD8UKs in, nor have they sent any recently, nor do they know when they are getting more.

Oh well.

I too called TVA today and was told "maybe" around the first of March.

I'm going to have a lot of HD equipment with no HD monitor to experience it on. I guess I just need to concentrate on the fact that patience is a virtue. :eek:

Anyways, I still feel like it is well worth the wait to get the 50PHD8UK. Now if Panasonic will just hurry up... :)

Can some kind owner of a 50PHD8UK post their settings after preforming an Avia
or similar calibration dvd?

ie..

brightness 35
contrast 50
red
green
blue
gamma

etc. etc.

Similar to what the folks in the official new NEC thread have been doing to compare with each others best settings.

Can some kind owner of a 50PHD8UK post their settings after preforming an Avia
or similar calibration dvd?

ie..

brightness 35
contrast 50
red
green
blue
gamma

etc. etc.

Similar to what the folks in the official new NEC thread have been doing to compare with each others best settings.


This thread might help you:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=602357

Drivie

Hi All,

Had my 50PHD8UK on order since end-Dec. . .should come in early March. Crossing my fingers they won't push delivery out by another month. Anyway, while I'm waiting, I'm trying to figure out how to get the most out of my purchase.

I have multiple questions that I'm hoping to get some f/b on:

1) Since the plasma itself has to eventually display all incoming content to the panel's native resolution (1366x768). . .doesn't it have to "upconvert" as an up-converting DVD player would? If so, then what you're essentially getting with an upconverting DVD player is just a "better" upconvert using more advanced algorithms? Any opinions on how much better it would be than what's already in the 8UK? Just trying to figure out whether getting ANOTHER DVD player for this reason would be worthwhile or not.

2) Assuming there's some justification for #1. . .was looking at Panasonic S77S or S97S, but then saw comments saying that Macroblocking effects are especially bad with combination of these players and Panasonic plasmas (counterintuitive since you'd have hoped that they would have at least made their own DVD players work with their plasmas!) :( . Can anyone confirm this. . .and if so, can anyone recommend a good substitute upconverting DVD player (under $400 w/HDMI output).

3) Also struggling on whether to go with DTV or Dish for HD-DVR. Dish just came out with their MPEG4 622 HD DVR, while DTV is lagging behind and won't have theirs until mid-year. Option 1 is to go ahead and get the 622 now (three hundred bucks for priviledge of leasing); option 2 is to get the MPEG2 H10-250 (four hundred to purchase) and *hope* that the upgrade policy to their MPEG 4 HD-DVR will be fair when the time comes. Anyone have a strong opinion on which way they'd go (btw, I don't care about leasing it versus owning the thing. . .just want to get and be able to record HD content)?

Thanks in advance for all of your input.

Eric

I was interested in an articulating wall mount for my 50” plasma. I need it to be able to extend from the wall, not be flush. If that is something you are interested in, read on.

I originally was going to purchase a Sanus VMAA26 mount for my 50” plasma. That is a single arm, extends up to 25.5 inches, is rated 30-50” and up to 130 pounds. A dealer indicated that the single arm model may sag when used for a 50” screen.

The Sanus VMDD26 model is double-armed and rated 50-63” and up to 175 pounds.

I was able to see the double-armed version of the Omnimount UCL-XP at a dealer. It looks very sturdy and has lots of flexibility for movement in all directions. It is rated up to 200 pounds and also extends to about 26 inches. I found a very good deal on the web ($200 under retail) and went ahead and ordered it this past weekend. Have not received it yet. However, having seen it, I feel much more confident about using it. I also do not think I could have gotten as good a price for the Sanus VMDD26 which seems to be approximately the equal of the Omnimount model.

eitakura:
Stay away from mpg4(often referred to as hdlite). The cheapest solution is to hit **ay for a samsung TS360 hd receiver and pay the extra $12 msrp/month for the mpg2 hd channels. The nice thing about the TS360 is that it can be configured to receive OTA digital stations without activating a DTV account. I have purchased 4 units over the last year for my 3 HDTVs with plans to use the 4th one soon for just OTA in the mstr bath. DTV has told me that they will continue to support the mpg2 stream by setting aside one of their satellites for it. Their new mpg4 stream is for OTA type channel coverage.

Magnatest, I placed order on 12/8. Originally TVA promised to ship it on 12/20. Actually it was shipped 2/13. It is arriving on 2/20-21. Today I got VMPL2. Good luck!

eitakura:
Stay away from mpg4(often referred to as hdlite).... ....Their new mpg4 stream is for OTA type channel coverage.

If you could NOT receive OTA HD locals, would you still stay away from MPEG4? The choice for me is to go with comca$t or Mpeg4 or do without HD altogether. Cable HD service here is quite simply terrible... And, only receiving D* non-network HD programming doesn't appeal to me. Thus, your advice to stay away from Mpeg4 isn't too encouraging. :(

What exactly is "lite" about Mpeg4? Worse than cable HD? And what did you mean when you said that "Their new mpg4 stream is for OTA type channel coverage"? I thought Mpeg4 was directly related to offering HD local channels to people who are not allowed to receive the Mpeg2 NY and LA feeds?

Thanks.

Hi:
Can someone help me? I am getting an 8UK shortly and I am doing some wiring behind the wall. I want to connect the video out in Slot 2 (which is a BNC or CBVS which I think is the same thing) to my S video in jack on my VCR to record shows from time to time.

2 questions:

Is the BNC/CVBS jack in Slot 2 male or female? i.e., do I need to get a male BNC jor a female cable jack?

Can I even record an HDTV signal on my VCR?

Thanks a bunch!

The Cat

http://images.monoprice.com/productlargeimages/6861.jpg

I put three of these onto a RCA cable and it connects to the bncs in slot 2. in other words, you'd need something that ends with the connection above to get it to connect to the tv's bncs....if that makes any sense

Hello all,

I ordered my 50PHD8UK on 1/10 through Plasma Concepts. The Panel arrived on 2/8 and was at my door 5 days later. I also ordered the Peerless 660 wall mount with it. It was simple, thin and easy to install.

Got it up and running last night and the HD picture is incredible.

Now I am just trying to fiugre out what DVD player to buy.......upscaling or not? It never seems to end.......

That's great, thanks for your help! I will keep y'all posted on my progress!!

Hi there,

I have the TH-50PHD8UK and a Harman Kardon AVR 635. It is a great setup with great picture and sound. I wouldn' worry at all about not have the HDMI. Component works just as well.

Sorry for the newbie questions. I built a HTPC running MCE 2005 with an ATI video out card that has both DVI and VGA. It is hooked up to an older TV and I am looking to upgrade to 50PHD8UK. I live in CT, USA and use Comcast cable. There are five HDTV channels available in my area. Right now I just have basic cable (no cable/HDTV box) going directly into the HTPC and my TV. I will be using the display (50PHD8UK) primarily for watching movies on the HTPC hard drive as well as DVDs in the HTPC. My questions are:

1) There is about 12-15 feet of cable required from the HTPC to the display. What are people's thoughts about hooking the HTPC to the 50PHD8UK? VGA or DVI? Real life examples are most welcome, as is theory.

2) Sanity check question - I am aware that the 50PHD8UK does not have a tuner. Therefore if I want to watch TV I must turn on the HTPC, wait for it to boot, etc. There will be times when I just want to quickly watch TV and not have to wait. I understand I will need a tuner/box for this which is fine. Assuming that I go with DVI from HTPC to 50PHD8UK, it is my understanding that I can purchase another blade with DVI.

3) As most of the channels are not offered in HDTV, how is the 50PHD8UK at displaying these non HDTV channels?

I have read a lot on the 50PHD8UK and think it is a great monitor. I just want to make sure that it will fit my needs and not be overkill. The reason I am looking at HDTV monitors is that I want to be "forward looking" hoping that as more and more HDTV channels become available, that I have the option of viewing them on whatever monitor I purchase.

Thanks in advance for your replies.

Can anyone help me? My 50phd8uk is being delivered on thursday (got mine from computeronline.), and I also purchased the 7th generation HDMI blade. Can anyone reccomend a good HDMI cable that I can use to connect to my cable box? I need about 4 feet, and they range in price from cheap to VERY expensive. Does anyone have any suggestions? Do I need to drop the big money on the high end version?

Monoprice top of page.

Thanks. I called them and was told that pretty much ALL HDMI cables were created equally. Does anyone disagree with that?

Thanks. I called them and was told that pretty much ALL HDMI cables were created equally. Does anyone disagree with that?

monoprice is great and ships very fast. if you're going with an hdmi that's longer than say, 6 ft, I'd go with the 24AWG instead of the 28AWG. I will never get cables from anywhere else. excellent quality and fairly priced (as opposed to, say, Monster Cable).

does the 8uk have justification mode for 4x3 content or does it just stretch it out?

It has a just mode for 480i/p.

If I get my 50PHD8UK someday (I'm trying to be patient), is there any reason or benefit to connecting both HDMI and Component signals from the same source?

I hope to soon be connecting the new monitor to my Denon AVR-4306 via an HDMI blade. I wonder if running a component cable wouldn't be redundent?

Thanks.

I'm getting mine tomorrow!!! Can't wait!!!

If I get my 50PHD8UK someday (I'm trying to be patient), is there any reason or benefit to connecting both HDMI and Component signals from the same source?

I hope to soon be connecting the new monitor to my Denon AVR-4306 via an HDMI blade. I wonder if running a component cable wouldn't be redundent?

Thanks.
Some sources will diable the component output if the HDMI it connected, so you might not even be able to do it.

I'm getting mine tomorrow!!! Can't wait!!!
When did you place your order?

Hope your delivery tomorrow goes smoothly... Is it being shipped via UPS? Let us know how it goes!

You lucky dog.

:p

SWEET GOD MINE IS COMING NEXT WEEK. Order placed on 12/28/05. I just wanna say that I was 31 on a list and EVERYONES order was fulfilled. I just can't freaking wait :)

My 50PHD8UK arrived yesterday. I hanged it on Sanus VMPL2 today. Connected STB via standard Component - picture is awesome! My wife loves it! I'm waiting for HDMI card.

BTW, I started having doubts about standard connections a day before arrival. For some reason I thought that by default it has only VGA input - inspite the description I read in the Operationg Instructions manual online. I can confirm the monitor has S-Video + AV input, Component and VGA installed by manufacturer (only slot 1 is free). Mine manufactured in December 2005, Osaka, Japan. Also it is absolutely quiet. I cann't hear any sound even if I put ear between the wall and the monitor.

DVD viewing is great. Will watch all movies over again.

Izm,ka
Where did you get yours?

FYI, if you haven't heard already, Costco is now selling the TH-50PHD8UK & the TH-65PHD8UK. For some reason the 50 is listed under LCD's.

When did you place your order?

Hope your delivery tomorrow goes smoothly... Is it being shipped via UPS? Let us know how it goes!

You lucky dog.

:p
It couldn't have went smoother. I put myself on the list at the end of January at computeronline.com, and I got a call from them last week. IT's here TODAY, and it ROCKS!!! Can someone point me to the settings for the break in period?

Costco is selling the Panasonic plasma?

FYI, if you haven't heard already, Costco is now selling the TH-50PHD8UK & the TH-65PHD8UK. For some reason the 50 is listed under LCD's.In stock?

In stock?

They say 20 working days for delivery, but I don't know. They also said that for the TH-50PM50U that we ordered and it was here in 10 days. We are thinking of exchanging the PM50U for the 8UK for the additional picture settings & the cleaner (speakerless) look.

ordered mine from TVA on 12/8. got it yesterday.

Buy.com is taking pre-order for the 50phd8uk again. It's a few hundred dollars less than Costco.

Buy.com is taking pre-order for the 50phd8uk again. It's a few hundred dollars less than Costco.
How does Buy.Com ship plasma screen monitors like the 50PHD8UK?

FedEx, at least where I live, provides terrible service, and I'm not sure if I would really trust FedEx not to damage it... :eek:

Can anyone point me in a direction as to where to adjust my picture settings for the break in period? Or do I have to buy a calibration disc.

How does Buy.Com ship plasma screen monitors like the 50PHD8UK?

FedEx, at least where I live, provides terrible service, and I'm not sure if I would really trust FedEx not to damage it... :eek:
I'd check out computeronline.com before you buy the costco. It's a big swing in $$, especially if you don't live in Cali. COL trucks their deliveries for about $250.

Can anyone point me in a direction as to where to adjust my picture settings for the break in period? Or do I have to buy a calibration disc.

Tenhigh- you might want to read this entire website (it has REALLY helped me)-
http://www.glaucobruzzi.com/plasma-faq/index.php?

this white paper specifically addresses what you want here-
http://www.glaucobruzzi.com/plasma-faq/showthread.php?t=49

HTH

mine shipped today from plasma concepts thanks aric should be in my house by wednesday need to get a dvd any recommendations

I want to buy BNC to RCA adapters for the 50PHD8UK. Do I need female BNC to male RCA or visa versa? Thank you.

dichtegs, you need male BNC and female RCA. I bought mine from RadioShack.

technofobe, I connected 8UK with HDMI and component to compare quality. HDMI picture looks considerably sharper. It is well spent $$ to buy the HDMI card. However, there is no practical reason to have them both connected to the same source. I have D*TV STB H-10.

i got an denon 4806 with and with that i picked up the 8uk thinking that all i had to do was connect the hdmi out cable to my reciever and everthing would be great.

nope the denon 4806 :mad: would not send my d*tv signal thru the hdmi output or even my ps2 output thru the hdmi (have component cables connected from my ps2).

had to run a second component cable to get the picture. so it will depend on your soource.

Well I thought I would share my experiences now with my month old 50 inch 8uk.

Like everyone else on this forum I was blown away by the picture quality of this monitor. Very happy about that, however as I was breaking in my set I noticed a buzzing sound coming from the unit. Not overly loud but loud enough to hear from my usual seating position 12 feet away if no sound is on. I arranged for an exchange of my unit which is still going on as Panasonic is slow issuing RMA numbers for returns. I was just patiently waiting on the new set being delivered to replace the buzzing one when this weekend for the first time a line suddently appeared on the movie I was watching. The line extends from the very top of the monitor and goes straight down in a straight line to just below the half way mark of the screen. It is about 1/4 of the way in from the left hand side. Upon closer inspection it appears that a row of pixels has just died. I tried watching different sources (I have two DVD players and an XBOX hooked up via my reciever, and a high def box through VGA-component. The line was there for any device at any resolution.

As my set is being exchanged anyways I'm not in a panic about it but it really has blown away the notion I had about Panasonics having a good name in quality. Now I am considering buying an expenzive extended warranty with my new set because I just don't trust the quality of these units anymore.

Cheers

Hello All

I have been following this set along with others for a while now and decided to place an order. I was able to order one the first Costco sets when they were posted their web site last week. I will let everyone know how it goes. I could not resist their return policy! Thanks to everyone for providing all the great information on this site.

Questions:

1. I am wall mounting, so can I mount this set as close to the wall as the mount will allow and not have any heat problems? I was thinking about getting this mount I have seen mentioned before.

http://www.mountsdirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=52&products_id=53

2. I probably cannot see the mount once it is mounted but what color is best suited for this panel black or gray. I have not seen the panel before.

3. Is anyone using their PIP functions. I have not found any posts requarding how it looks displaying the two sources?

4. Are most owners removing handles on the back of the set or leaving them on when mounting?

Thanks in advance for any replies.

Lenny

Hello All

I have been following this set along with others for a while now and decided to place an order. I was able to order one the first Costco sets when they were posted their web site last week. I will let everyone know how it goes. I could not resist their return policy! Thanks to everyone for providing all the great information on this site.

Questions:

1. I am wall mounting, so can I mount this set as close to the wall as the mount will allow and not have any heat problems? I was thinking about getting this mount I have seen mentioned before.

http://www.mountsdirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=52&products_id=53

2. I probably cannot see the mount once it is mounted but what color is best suited for this panel black or gray. I have not seen the panel before.

3. Is anyone using their PIP functions. I have not found any posts requarding how it looks displaying the two sources?

4. Are most owners removing handles on the back of the set or leaving them on when mounting?

Thanks in advance for any replies.

Lenny

You'll love the display, Lenny. Unfortunately, I can't comment on the mount that you are planning on using. As for color, almost anything will do as it should be almost impossible to see from the sides unless you really stick your head back there. (Generally, I'd recommend black, but the back of the panel is gray metal, if I'm not mistaken.) I've used the PIP functions and they're quite good and flexible. To get more information, you can go to the Panasonic website:
http://catalog2.panasonic.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ModelList?storeId=11201&catalogId=13051&catGroupId=14624
and download a copy of the manual. There are pictures in the manual that describe the various PIP functions and display options.

As for the handles, my strong suggestion is to leave them on the panel. You may need to use them if you ever have to remove and remount the panel to the wall.

Good luck with the purchase.

Is Costco still selling the 8uk? I'm about to pull the trigger and I'd like to buy it through Costco if it's possible. I've searched everywhere on the website and can't seem to find it????????

Is Costco still selling the 8uk? I'm about to pull the trigger and I'd like to buy it through Costco if it's possible. I've searched everywhere on the website and can't seem to find it????????

check the LCD section..... :eek:

I dont think you'll see this commercial set for sale at Costco anytime soon. The PIP on this set is excellent I use it everyday. I surf the internet and watch TV at the same time. I researched this set for over a year before I pulled the trigger and I have no regrets. I think i've seen every single plasma in every store in town and to my eye no display looks as good as this set. I bought from TV Authority. I was gonna buy the 42 inch but then the price dropped on the 50 and I went for it. Glad I got the 50 because it makes reading content on the internet from 9 feet away on the couch no problem. HD looks jaw dropping, you must have some HD content for this set to get your money's worth. SD looks great but it's no comparison to the HD. Also setting your "picture" and "brightness" setting to zero or below makes a huge difference in black levels. By doing this I think it makes the black levels nice and inky. Anywho, dont hesitate buying this PDP.

I ordered my 8UK from VA last month and it should arrive on Wednesday. I have been reading about this monitor for a while and have only heard great things about it.

I am interested in purchasing a new HD upconversion DVD player and don't know which one to purchase. I have read some threads on this forum regarding the Panny S77, the Oppo and the Samsung HD950, but did not see anything specific to this monitor.

I have read a lot about macroblocking and was wondering if anyone knows what the best upconversion DVD player for the 8UK would be that gives great picture quality and making sure macroblocking is not an issue?

I also plan to get the new 5x1 HDMI switcher from monoprice for video and use fiber optic for audio since my Onkyo TX-DS989 vers. 2 does not have HDMI inputs.

Any info would help.

Happy TV Watching

I dont think you'll see this commercial set for sale at Costco anytime soon. The PIP on this set is excellent I use it everyday. I surf the internet and watch TV at the same time. I researched this set for over a year before I pulled the trigger and I have no regrets. I think i've seen every single plasma in every store in town and to my eye no display looks as good as this set. I bought from TV Authority. I was gonna buy the 42 inch but then the price dropped on the 50 and I went for it. Glad I got the 50 because it makes reading content on the internet from 9 feet away on the couch no problem. HD looks jaw dropping, you must have some HD content for this set to get your money's worth. SD looks great but it's no comparison to the HD. Also setting your "picture" and "brightness" setting to zero or below makes a huge difference in black levels. By doing this I think it makes the black levels nice and inky. Anywho, dont hesitate buying this PDP.

Costco is in fact selling the commercial model. Although, it looks like there out of the 50". The commercial 65" is still listed. The listing changes everyday based on their inventory, so it might be back.

I ordered my 8UK from VA last month and it should arrive on Wednesday. I have been reading about this monitor for a while and have only heard great things about it.

I am interested in purchasing a new HD upconversion DVD player and don't know which one to purchase. I have read some threads on this forum regarding the Panny S77, the Oppo and the Samsung HD950, but did not see anything specific to this monitor.

I have read a lot about macroblocking and was wondering if anyone knows what the best upconversion DVD player for the 8UK would be that gives great picture quality and making sure macroblocking is not an issue?

I also plan to get the new 5x1 HDMI switcher from monoprice for video and use fiber optic for audio since my Onkyo TX-DS989 vers. 2 does not have HDMI inputs.

Any info would help.

Happy TV Watching

I've heard that the Oppo does show some macro-blocking with this model (I have it by the way). I'm in the same boat since I'm using an older dvd player. Funny thing is, I can't imagine the picture looking any better.

Costco is in fact selling the commercial model. Although, it looks like there out of the 50". The commercial 65" is still listed. The listing changes everyday based on their inventory, so it might be back.
I can get the 50" 8UK for about $350 less than what Costco is selling it for (only difference is I have to go pick it up...about 30 miles away...whereas Costco is white glove delivery). Is the "Costco warranty" (translation: I can take it back at any time for any reason), worth the extra $350?

I was just at my Costco on Friday and they didnt have any phd8uks. I do see the 65" online at costco though. I would definetly buy from costco if they had the 50 or the 42 phd. Costco's anytime any reason return policy is nice. 350 dollars? think about how much an extended 5 year warranty would cost. More than 350. But if you went to return it 5 years from now what would you get in return? A pocket full cash? nice

Got my 50 inch Friday. :) Purchase of unit was based upon input from this forum. Ordered it 3 weeks ago with hdmi blade and speakers. Was shipped in double box on palette. Outer box was in outstanding condition. Could not be more pleased with shipper and vendor.

The plasma has an outstanding picture via HD Dish reciever. I need a recommendation on a new reciever and DVD that wont produce MB on Pansonc plasma. Researched many threads---need rec from Panny owner.

Thanks

Sorry for the newbie questions. I built a HTPC running MCE 2005 with an ATI video out card that has both DVI and VGA. It is hooked up to an older TV and I am looking to upgrade to 50PHD8UK. I live in CT, USA and use Comcast cable. There are five HDTV channels available in my area. Right now I just have basic cable (no cable/HDTV box) going directly into the HTPC and my TV. I will be using the display (50PHD8UK) primarily for watching movies on the HTPC hard drive as well as DVDs in the HTPC. My questions are:

1) There is about 12-15 feet of cable required from the HTPC to the display. What are people's thoughts about hooking the HTPC to the 50PHD8UK? VGA or DVI? Real life examples are most welcome, as is theory.

2) Sanity check question - I am aware that the 50PHD8UK does not have a tuner. Therefore if I want to watch TV I must turn on the HTPC, wait for it to boot, etc. There will be times when I just want to quickly watch TV and not have to wait. I understand I will need a tuner/box for this which is fine. Assuming that I go with DVI from HTPC to 50PHD8UK, it is my understanding that I can purchase another blade with DVI.

3) As most of the channels are not offered in HDTV, how is the 50PHD8UK at displaying these non HDTV channels?

I have read a lot on the 50PHD8UK and think it is a great monitor. I just want to make sure that it will fit my needs and not be overkill. The reason I am looking at HDTV monitors is that I want to be "forward looking" hoping that as more and more HDTV channels become available, that I have the option of viewing them on whatever monitor I purchase.

Thanks in advance for your replies.

It appears nobody is in your HTPC boat (yet).

1) Although I don't have the 8UK yet ;) , I too will be attaching my MCE PC to the panel - but not as the only (or primary) source. I will be using the built-in VGA for the PC - as (I hear) this is the equivalent to component.

2) Slot #1 is open for you to buy a DVI blade.

3) If you have your MCE as your TV tuner, I don't think you'll be getting any HD content. Once you upgrade to Comca$t digital, you'll need to route through the STB to receive HD content - defeating the purpose of the PC as tuner.

What I'll be doing is using the STB (Moto 6412 HD/DVR) as my tuner (I'll buy/connect through the DVI blade in slot #1). I'll connect the MCE PC for Internet, picture slide shows, music and home videos, ect. (everything the MCE was built for) through the VGA in. Lastly, connect the DVD through the component plugs in slot #3.

Good luck - keep us posted (I will too).

I ordered my 8UK from VA last month and it should arrive on Wednesday. I have been reading about this monitor for a while and have only heard great things about it.

I am interested in purchasing a new HD upconversion DVD player and don't know which one to purchase. I have read some threads on this forum regarding the Panny S77, the Oppo and the Samsung HD950, but did not see anything specific to this monitor.

I have read a lot about macroblocking and was wondering if anyone knows what the best upconversion DVD player for the 8UK would be that gives great picture quality and making sure macroblocking is not an issue?

I also plan to get the new 5x1 HDMI switcher from monoprice for video and use fiber optic for audio since my Onkyo TX-DS989 vers. 2 does not have HDMI inputs.

Any info would help.

Happy TV Watching
Hi Stretch1010,

I have the same dilemna - mine is arriving Thursday. Can hardly wait.

From everything I've researched, the Faroudja chip will enhance macroblocking effects (MBE) to some degree, so if you want to "make sure" it won't be an issue, you may have to eliminate the Oppo, Panny S77/97, and others that use Faroudja.

I actually went to Oppo's HQ last week - they have a demo system with their player hooked up to a Panny TH-42PX50U. I don't know for sure that the scaler is identical to the 8UK since the pixel count is different (1024 x 768 vs 1366 x 768).

They illustrated how macroblocking can come from source material itself, or be introduced/enhanced by the Faroudja. On the couple of disks they demo'd (both animated DVD's), there was some MBE evident. Not to say all animated movies would have it - they were illustrating MBE because that was my concern.

Honestly, my takeaway was that there wasn't that much of a difference between 480i out of components and 720p out of DVI. Granted, I didn't have a lot of time to compare. But both looked very good. The Oppo rep did illustrate the difference on some sequences on a few DVD's. Basically, you could see some subtle jaggies here and there w/o upconversion. But I'm not sure I would have noticed on my own.

My plan is to use my 480p component output out of my current DVD player and just see how it looks. If I think there's room for improvement, I'm either going to buy the Oppo directly from them (they have a 30-day return policy) or consider getting the Toshiba HD-DVD player that also has upconversion. I don't know the quality of that scaler, but for $300 more I'd be getting true HD capability as well as upconversion. Of course, Blu-ray may win, but it will take some time and I don't plan on buying a ton of HD-DVD movies (if I do end up going that route).

Just my thoughts and plans. . .

These Panasonic monitors seem to have a lot going for them not the least of which is price. Can anyone answer a few questions?

1. The set has no optional boards. I assume you need a cable box to watch anything other than DVD?

2. Can you buy a plug-in HD Tuner for over the air broadcasts? I didn't see one in Panasonic's literature. Of course I may not know what I'm looking at anyway.

3. I understand service must be done at a Panasonic service center. Is this true? Extended warranty starts after manufacturers warranty?

4. No speakers included. Can you plug home speakers into the unit? Is there a built-in amplifier?

5. Is there some limitation on different stretch modes that the retail versions don't have.

Thanks in advance.

frobi

So are we still experiencing loss of resolution via component at 720p with this set? Also, can the floating blacks be turned down? I couldn't find any concrete answers to the above and those questions are keeping me from buying this over the NEC. I am trying to stay with Panasonics because of their Image Retention resistance compared to other plasmas.

Thanks!

Hi Stretch1010,

I have the same dilemna - mine is arriving Thursday. Can hardly wait.

From everything I've researched, the Faroudja chip will enhance macroblocking effects (MBE) to some degree, so if you want to "make sure" it won't be an issue, you may have to eliminate the Oppo, Panny S77/97, and others that use Faroudja.

I actually went to Oppo's HQ last week - they have a demo system with their player hooked up to a Panny TH-42PX50U. I don't know for sure that the scaler is identical to the 8UK since the pixel count is different (1024 x 768 vs 1366 x 768).

They illustrated how macroblocking can come from source material itself, or be introduced/enhanced by the Faroudja. On the couple of disks they demo'd (both animated DVD's), there was some MBE evident. Not to say all animated movies would have it - they were illustrating MBE because that was my concern.

Honestly, my takeaway was that there wasn't that much of a difference between 480i out of components and 720p out of DVI. Granted, I didn't have a lot of time to compare. But both looked very good. The Oppo rep did illustrate the difference on some sequences on a few DVD's. Basically, you could see some subtle jaggies here and there w/o upconversion. But I'm not sure I would have noticed on my own.

My plan is to use my 480p component output out of my current DVD player and just see how it looks. If I think there's room for improvement, I'm either going to buy the Oppo directly from them (they have a 30-day return policy) or consider getting the Toshiba HD-DVD player that also has upconversion. I don't know the quality of that scaler, but for $300 more I'd be getting true HD capability as well as upconversion. Of course, Blu-ray may win, but it will take some time and I don't plan on buying a ton of HD-DVD movies (if I do end up going that route).

Just my thoughts and plans. . .
Thanks Eitakura. I appreciate the info. I guess I'll have to buy one from somewhere that has a generous return policy.

I guess I can also go with the Samsung (doesn't have the chip), however, I heard this player does not have as good a picture quality as the others.

I guess we can't win.

So are we still experiencing loss of resolution via component at 720p with this set? Also, can the floating blacks be turned down? I couldn't find any concrete answers to the above and those questions are keeping me from buying this over the NEC. I am trying to stay with Panasonics because of their Image Retention resistance compared to other plasmas.

Thanks!
-------------------------------------------------

Yesterday I tested an 50 PHD 8 UK with component and HDMI (to compare the gradation etc). I posted this in the NEC v. Panasonic forum.

1080i looked better than 720P, but 720P looked better than DVD (480P). Now, I believe there is not reason why 1080i should have better res than 720P since on my NEC there is no difference between 720P and 1080i (as far as I can tell), but with the 8 UK it's apparent. Both pictures are 'excellent' but 1080i is a little crisper . However, on my TH 50PHD 7UY, DVD (480P) looks better than 720P. I have tried to figure out why this is so, without success. WIth my current set 720P is brutal and definitely requires an external VP (I don't have one) to be anywhere near the res of my NEC.

We tried to look for floating blacks on the 8UK (another ultra competitive friend has the NEC - who convinced me to get it as well, and he had the floating blacks as one of the key differentiators). I do notice it on my 7 UY if I am looking for it, but yesterday it not noticeable on the 8 UK. There was little or no IR, even on a brand new 8 UK set! My NEC has some, but does not bother me...especially since 90% I am watching DVD and other 10% HDTV. For CNN, Fox news etc, I use my XM Tuner :)

Hello all,

I have been following this thread for months. I think I am ready to pull the trigger on a Panasonic TH-50PHD8UK. Where can I get the best price shipped to Cali? I want to try and save on TAX or Shipping if I can ...

Visual Apex

Got my Panasonic TH-50PHD8UK yesterday, but...

It's still sitting in the box, my wife and I tried to lift it to put on my bdi 8527 stand which has the optional 8540 mount,but unfortunately it was too heavy for her. My brother-in-law is coming by to help tonight. Can't wait.

Hey guys,

I just went to CompUSA and they have the Pioneer 1120 on demo, they will give me a crazy deal on it. Would you guys say to go for it or go with the Panasonic TH-50PHD8UK?

Thanks

These Panasonic monitors seem to have a lot going for them not the least of which is price. Can anyone answer a few questions?

1. The set has no optional boards. I assume you need a cable box to watch anything other than DVD?

2. Can you buy a plug-in HD Tuner for over the air broadcasts? I didn't see one in Panasonic's literature. Of course I may not know what I'm looking at anyway.

3. I understand service must be done at a Panasonic service center. Is this true? Extended warranty starts after manufacturers warranty?

4. No speakers included. Can you plug home speakers into the unit? Is there a built-in amplifier?

5. Is there some limitation on different stretch modes that the retail versions don't have.

Thanks in advance.

frobi
Frobi,

1) You'll need some video source since the panel has no tuners, whether it be a HD tuner or cable/satellite box (or DVD player as you mentioned).

2) There's no HD tuner module that will plug into the back of the panel, but you can get an OTA tuner box that would hook up via component or HDMI.

3) I did read that service is done at the service center (at-home service isn't part of the standard warranty). Not sure about extended warranty timing - they should state that pretty clearly on the webpage that offers the policy, I would hope.

4) You can plug in your own speakers, but the amp isn't very powerful so I guess you shouldn't expect great sound out of them. I think it's 8watts per channel if I'm not mistaken, and I've read that either 6 or 8ohm speakers will work. Because the optional Panny speakers are pricey, I would definitely go with your own speakers even if you had to buy new ones - I'm sure any you purchased would sound a lot better than the Pannys.

5) I've read that you can't stretch using HD sources, whereas you can on the consumer version. This is the only "flexibility/functionality" issue of this type that I know of that favors the consumer version.

I ordered the commercial version (8UK) because it had more picture adjustments and I liked the all-black look. But I ended up buying the pedestal stand, HDMI board. . .and I'm now wondering whether I might sometimes want to not use the full surround for sound (late at night, etc) and whether I might not end up buying an OTA tuner for local HD.

So, if you're debating between the consumer and commercial version, I would think about whether you're going to end up buying all the a la carte items that would bring the commercial to have the same features (i.e. speakers, HD OTA tuner, HDMI board, etc) as the consumer. If so, price it out - the consumer may be a better deal. While the extra picture adjustments are nice, I wonder how many people actually end up using them since the picture seems to look really good even if you "only" have the adjustments of the consumer version.

In the end, I don't have any regrets, but it's something to think about.

Thanks for your insights. Is the commercial glass or guts better or the same as the consumer version? Do you potentially get a better machine for the same or less money?

I'm quite certain the glass is the same, but some of the "guts" may vary. I'm saying this intuitively about the guts because there are differences like more picture-in-picture options and picture adjustments on commercial.

Now it could just be firmware differences with hardware exactly the same, but I really don't know one way or the other.

I think it's pretty safe to say that the two will give very comparable pictures if calibrated equivalently. I'm planning on having mine ISF-calibrated. While it costs a couple-three hundred bucks to do so, I hear that the results make it well worth the money. I also hear that it's best to get 100hrs or more of viewing time first before doing such calibration. Someone that knows more about calibration (or is a calibrator themselves) can comment, but I'm not even 100% certain every ISF calibrator would access the extra picture adjustments available on the commercial.

My intuitive feeling is that if the commercial would give you a "100"-rating picture if ISF-calibrated and actually used every bells and whistle adjustment available, the consumer version would get you a "93-96"-rating by comparison. By the way, this last relative comparison is completely POOMA, so take it with a huge grain of salt.

I think it's worth the time to "stress" the pros and cons of a Panny versus another brand (esp. brands that aren't considered top-tier), but I would only sweat the differences between Panny consumer and commercial or Panny vs Pioneer if you enjoyed the research process. From what I hear, Pioneer is another purchase that, picture-wise, you could never really fault yourself for (though I hear they're more expensive).

I finally got my 50PHD8UK! I was emotionally/mentally exhausted setting everything up last night. I have to say it was a little anti-climactic just because there are so few HD sources (even in Los Angeles).

I can tell you now - I am pretty savvy with electronics but I know I will need some help from the forum with the new plasma, the new HD Cable Box, and DVD player.

I am going to have to monkey with the settings based upon the suggested settings forum as the screen didn't have the amazing picture I have seen in some stores. I report back after I have had time to tweak it some more.

Ok here is the first question. DVD viewing. I have a Sony DVD-NC655P.
I reset it from 4:3 to 16:9. I also changed it from "interlace" to "progressive". Here is the problem. When I set the plasma on "Normal" the screen displays a real strange image. It has huge gray bars on the sides and then within what looks like a smallish 4:3 image is a letterbox (or wide screen) movie. Strange? Am I missing something? This has to be a DVD problem right? I am able to switch it to Just or Wide or Full and the movie image fills the screen but it doesn't look that great.

Help anyone?

Had some confusing things happening with some HD channels as well - some (such as PBS and whatever channel has Boston Legal) looked as you would expect full screen - others (some local news shows) were clearly HD images but had bars on the side. Telling you the model number of cable box would probably help huh? I forgot to write it down before going to work - I fill that in later.

But the DVD issue is bugging me more for the moment.

Thanks!

In regards to the DVD player, the 50PHD8UK should be set to "full" not "normal". Normal is for 4x3 SD images only. Try that and see how it looks. You should also hook up your DVD player via the component input. Not all widescreen DVD's will fill the screen. Those that are framed 2:35:1 will have bars on the top and bottom. Those framed 1:85:1 may either fill the entire screen or have rather thin bars on the top and bottom depending on the set's overscan. Those framed 1:78:1 will fill the whole screen. Your cable box should also be set for a 16 x 9 screen as well. This is easy to do in the box's menu. I have set Comcast, TW and Cox boxes up for friends and family around the country, either Motorola or SA. While all 1080i or 720p signals are 16 x 9, the full picture may not be. You may be getting a hi-def signal that consists of a 4x3 SD picture with black or gray bars on the side. A true HD image will take up the entire screen. You should see this on any HD program such as CSI. When the show is on, the whole screen will have the picture with no bars. You will see bars on most commercials as they are not in HD. The cable box should also be connected via component cables. This should fix all of your issues. I have a 50PHD7UY and it has a stellar picture.

In regards to the DVD player, the 50PHD8UK should be set to "full" not "normal". Normal is for 4x3 SD images only. Try that and see how it looks. You should also hook up your DVD player via the component input. Not all widescreen DVD's will fill the screen. Those that are framed 2:35:1 will have bars on the top and bottom. Those framed 1:85:1 may either fill the entire screen or have rather thin bars on the top and bottom depending on the set's overscan. Those framed 1:78:1 will fill the whole screen. Your cable box should also be set for a 16 x 9 screen as well. This is easy to do in the box's menu. I have set Comcast, TW and Cox boxes up for friends and family around the country, either Motorola or SA. While all 1080i or 720p signals are 16 x 9, the full picture may not be. You may be getting a hi-def signal that consists of a 4x3 SD picture with black or gray bars on the side. A true HD image will take up the entire screen. You should see this on any HD program such as CSI. When the show is on, the whole screen will have the picture with no bars. You will see bars on most commercials as they are not in HD. The cable box should also be connected via component cables. This should fix all of your issues. I have a 50PHD7UY and it has a stellar picture.

I thought that once I was past the burn-in phase that I could use Normal for widescreen DVD movies. I know that I may get bars on the top and bottom as not all movies are formatted exactly 16:9 - but that is ok with me. If I put it on Full won't it artificially stretch the move to eliminate the top and bottom bars???

This also doesn't explain the bars on the sides vs on the top and bottom.

I will definitely play around with the cable box (it is a Motorola with DVR built in) as you suggested - thanks!

As for my connections - I have a HDMI from the Motorola box to the plasma and component from the 480p DVD player to the plasma.

You should not watch widescreen anamorphic DVD's in the normal mode as they will look awful. They were made to be viewed on this type of display in full mode which is the default mode for HD. Fed an HD signal, you will not be able to change the mode to normal or just while watching HD content. You will for 480i and 480p content. If it is a standard 4 x 3 DVD, you can watch it in normal mode and it will look best in this mode with bars on the sides. The 4 x 3 DVD can also be viewed in full or just modes which will stretch the image to fill the screen with some resulting distortion. I like just mode best for this purpose. This is done to help prevent burn in. The reason that you see bars on all sides in widescreen DVD's in normal mode is because they are not meant to be viewed that way. The movie has bars on the top and bottom. Putting that image on the display in normal mode will result in the set putting bars on the sides again, hence bars all the way around the image. For the Motorola DVR, turn the box on and then turn it off. Immediately hit the menu button. A screen will pop up which will indicate your screen configuation as well as a override which is for SD material. Set the screen to 16 x 9. You can set the overide to what you think looks best. I keep mine on either 480i or 480p. Good luck.

JWHIP - Very helpful post! Thank you so much!

Thanks for everyone's help.

So, last question - what are people's thoughts on 480i vs. 480p on this DVD player into this plasma? I experimented with both on the opening credits (of Willy Wonka) - both displayed some ghosting/pixilating around some writing that was floating above some gray smoky skys - so I didn't really see much of a difference.

The manual for the Sony player recommends 480p.

make sure that the sharpness contol is set to around 0 or +1.

Has anyone had their TH-50PHD8UK professionally calibrated by a ISF Tech?

I received mine 4 days ago and I am extremely happy with the display but I feel that I could get a better image from this unit. I have all my setting set low for the brake in period but will like to optimize it’s performance once I have reached the 100 hours.

I am connected DVI to a HDMI card that I purchased with the unit. I am also thinking of upgrading my Dish box to a MPG4 with a HDMI connection, hoping that this will make a difference.

Any suggestions or advice will be appreciated.

Today I tried to connect my laptop (Inspiron 5150) to the 50PHD8UK (10 days old) via standard VGA. Windows XP determined display correctly and allowed to set 1366x806 (and other) resolution(s). Display adapter is NVIDIA FX Go5200.

Unfortunately, picture is unusually red. There is no GREEN color. It seems like any green color is replaced with either red or white color. Then I tried with my desktop (Dell) and two different VGA cables (both working well with PC monitor) with the same "red" picture problem. Have you seen anything like that? Suggestions?

Is it a candidate for replacement?

Did you try altering the setting for the VGA input from Component to RGB? That should make a difference. Go to your VGA input, press the Setup button and toggle the second setting from the top. Hopefully that will resolve the issue for you.

Drivie

Hello All,

I just received my Panny 50PHD8UK yesterday and installed it last night. I wanted to post some observations, including my perception (preliminary only) of image quality with a couple of different DVD players.

First, thanks to Visual Apex for a very pleasant buying experience and good price. Waiting during the backorder process was not fun, but they communicated very well and the plasma arrived in perfect condition. They sent the RCA/BNC adaptors in a separate package that arrived a day before the plasma - nice touch.

The first DVD player I connected was a Sony DVP-NC685V via component. I put in what I believed to be a good quality DVD (Lord of the Rings I). . .and I have to say my heart sank, as I was initially fairly disappointed with the image quality. It was a 4/10 (subjective rating, but I'll try to be consistant in this post).

What I discovered was that I wasn't in progressive mode and was outputting 480i to the panel. When I switched the 480p, the image quality improved SIGNIFICANTLY to a 7/10. I never knew that progressive vs interlaced output would make that much of a difference when the panel would scale everything to its native resolution in the end.

After playing with the picture controls for awhile, I got it to a 7.5 (note: I didn't try to tweak them that much - I just went with settings similar to what I've seen others posing on the forum).

If the picture was an 8-8.5, I probably would've stopped there and waited for my Dish 622 to be installed. . .but with up-converting DVD players out there and Oppo Digital just a couple of miles from work, I decided to buy an Oppo and try it out.

Kudos to Oppo Digital as well for their responsiveness and customer-centric attitude. I had gone there last week or so to check out their player on a Panny 42". . .and my perception at the time was that I couldn't tell the difference between 480i via component and 720p/1080i out of DVI/HDMP in their office environment. Both looked good (8.5). . .but since I judged mine to be only a 7.5, I pulled the trigger.

Upon hooking up the Oppo, I was initially amazed by the difference/improvement in PQ. Everything seemed sharper and more vivid - amazing! Then, I realized that I hadn't adjusted the picture controls for the HDMI input and it wasn't an apples to apples comparision. The Picture and Sharpness settings were too high (looked good, but would probably be fatiguing after awhile and definitely not good for 1st 100hrs). After setting the picture to be equivalent to the component input, I was still quite impressed with the improvement in picture quality.

I would "quantify" it as going from a 7.5 to an 8.5 or 8.75. To me, that is worth keeping the player given it's relatively cheap price (I bought a refurb since that's all they had available and it was 2-4 DVD's cheaper).

One concern I had was whether the Faroudja scaler in the Oppo would enhance macroblocking effects, which I've read about on the forum. What I can say so far (looking at snippets of ~10 discs) is that macroblocking isn't a major issue so far. When I did see some macroblocking or noise, I took that disc to the Sony outputting 480p. . .and the MBE or noise was still there.

It's probable that in some cases the Oppo might make MBE worse (since you'll read about that from many sources on the forum), but I haven't seen it yet. My intention is to leave both DVD players hooked up to the Panny and use the Oppo as the primary. If I ever run into annoying MBE, I'll play the movie in the Sony.

Regarding comparative output of Oppo in 480p, 540p, 720p, and 1080i. I find 480p is DIFFERENT than all the others as I will explain later. But between the other output options, I find them fairly comparable so far (not huge difference). On Star Wars Ep. III, I thought 720p looked sharper, with 1080i just looking a little softer. On other discs, I thought the opposite was true. For me, the jury is still out on that one.

Back to 480p. . .this is one observation that I can't explain, but may be common knowledge and easily explainable by many people out there. . .

On NON-anamorphic DVD's on the Oppo (again, hooked up via DVI/HDMI cable), 480p is the only output resolution that will present a normal picture. All the higher resolutions will present a more vertically COMPRESSED picture. Now I know that non-anamorphic DVD's have less resolution, but why 480p is OK whlie others are not is beyond me. Perhaps a combination of what the Panny scaler perceives and how it automatically reacts to this perceived input. The inability to adjust aspect ratio with HDMI input is a bit annoying - I'm forced to watch non-anamorphic DVD's in 480p on the Oppo.

But on anamorphic DVD's (again on the Oppo via HDMI), all the higher resolutions (540p, 720p, 1080i) show a normal picture, while 480p shows a vertically STRETCHED picture. So just the opposite of the other situation.

In the end, not too terribly annoying, just a bit.

So after the 1st 24hrs, I love the Panny and the Oppo. . .and so far my fears of massive MBE are unfounded.

ISF calibration will be next month. . .I'm curious to see if there's a night and day diference due to that. I've heard the effect is dramatic, and I hope that'll be the case.

Anybody still reading? A very long post I realize. . .just the "new plasma adrenaline" working itself out. . . ;)

Man I wish I got BNC to RCA adaptors with my TV because I can't use it without them right now. Grrrr.

Its all setup and sitting on a stand but my connectors don't arrive till MONDAY. All this waiting and I have to wait even longer, sigh.

Hello All,

I just received my Panny 50PHD8UK yesterday and installed it last night. I wanted to post some observations, including my perception (preliminary only) of image quality with a couple of different DVD players.

First, thanks to Visual Apex for a very pleasant buying experience and good price. Waiting during the backorder process was not fun, but they communicated very well and the plasma arrived in perfect condition. They sent the RCA/BNC adaptors in a separate package that arrived a day before the plasma - nice touch.

The first DVD player I connected was a Sony DVP-NC685V via component. I put in what I believed to be a good quality DVD (Lord of the Rings I). . .and I have to say my heart sank, as I was initially fairly disappointed with the image quality. It was a 4/10 (subjective rating, but I'll try to be consistant in this post).

What I discovered was that I wasn't in progressive mode and was outputting 480i to the panel. When I switched the 480p, the image quality improved SIGNIFICANTLY to a 7/10. I never knew that progressive vs interlaced output would make that much of a difference when the panel would scale everything to its native resolution in the end.

After playing with the picture controls for awhile, I got it to a 7.5 (note: I didn't try to tweak them that much - I just went with settings similar to what I've seen others posing on the forum).

If the picture was an 8-8.5, I probably would've stopped there and waited for my Dish 622 to be installed. . .but with up-converting DVD players out there and Oppo Digital just a couple of miles from work, I decided to buy an Oppo and try it out.

Kudos to Oppo Digital as well for their responsiveness and customer-centric attitude. I had gone there last week or so to check out their player on a Panny 42". . .and my perception at the time was that I couldn't tell the difference between 480i via component and 720p/1080i out of DVI/HDMP in their office environment. Both looked good (8.5). . .but since I judged mine to be only a 7.5, I pulled the trigger.

Upon hooking up the Oppo, I was initially amazed by the difference/improvement in PQ. Everything seemed sharper and more vivid - amazing! Then, I realized that I hadn't adjusted the picture controls for the HDMI input and it wasn't an apples to apples comparision. The Picture and Sharpness settings were too high (looked good, but would probably be fatiguing after awhile and definitely not good for 1st 100hrs). After setting the picture to be equivalent to the component input, I was still quite impressed with the improvement in picture quality.

I would "quantify" it as going from a 7.5 to an 8.5 or 8.75. To me, that is worth keeping the player given it's relatively cheap price (I bought a refurb since that's all they had available and it was 2-4 DVD's cheaper).

One concern I had was whether the Faroudja scaler in the Oppo would enhance macroblocking effects, which I've read about on the forum. What I can say so far (looking at snippets of ~10 discs) is that macroblocking isn't a major issue so far. When I did see some macroblocking or noise, I took that disc to the Sony outputting 480p. . .and the MBE or noise was still there.

It's probable that in some cases the Oppo might make MBE worse (since you'll read about that from many sources on the forum), but I haven't seen it yet. My intention is to leave both DVD players hooked up to the Panny and use the Oppo as the primary. If I ever run into annoying MBE, I'll play the movie in the Sony.

Regarding comparative output of Oppo in 480p, 540p, 720p, and 1080i. I find 480p is DIFFERENT than all the others as I will explain later. But between the other output options, I find them fairly comparable so far (not huge difference). On Star Wars Ep. III, I thought 720p looked sharper, with 1080i just looking a little softer. On other discs, I thought the opposite was true. For me, the jury is still out on that one.

Back to 480p. . .this is one observation that I can't explain, but may be common knowledge and easily explainable by many people out there. . .

On NON-anamorphic DVD's on the Oppo (again, hooked up via DVI/HDMI cable), 480p is the only output resolution that will present a normal picture. All the higher resolutions will present a more vertically COMPRESSED picture. Now I know that non-anamorphic DVD's have less resolution, but why 480p is OK whlie others are not is beyond me. Perhaps a combination of what the Panny scaler perceives and how it automatically reacts to this perceived input. The inability to adjust aspect ratio with HDMI input is a bit annoying - I'm forced to watch non-anamorphic DVD's in 480p on the Oppo.

But on anamorphic DVD's (again on the Oppo via HDMI), all the higher resolutions (540p, 720p, 1080i) show a normal picture, while 480p shows a vertically STRETCHED picture. So just the opposite of the other situation.

In the end, not too terribly annoying, just a bit.

So after the 1st 24hrs, I love the Panny and the Oppo. . .and so far my fears of massive MBE are unfounded.

ISF calibration will be next month. . .I'm curious to see if there's a night and day diference due to that. I've heard the effect is dramatic, and I hope that'll be the case.

Anybody still reading? A very long post I realize. . .just the "new plasma adrenaline" working itself out. . . ;)

What Oppo unit did you get?

Today I tried to connect my laptop (Inspiron 5150) to the 50PHD8UK (10 days old) via standard VGA. Windows XP determined display correctly and allowed to set 1366x806 (and other) resolution(s). Display adapter is NVIDIA FX Go5200.

Unfortunately, picture is unusually red. There is no GREEN color. It seems like any green color is replaced with either red or white color. Then I tried with my desktop (Dell) and two different VGA cables (both working well with PC monitor) with the same "red" picture problem. Have you seen anything like that? Suggestions?

Is it a candidate for replacement?

I had the same red problem, but I screwed with the settings and it fixed it immediately. I'm not sure what I did, though. I am actually typing this from my couch looking at the th50phd8uk (using wireless keyboard). I will see what I've got it set at and if I can recreate/fix the red thing. EIther way, it's a simple fix and nothing to be worried about.

UPDATE: right click on the desktop and screw with the property settings and nvidia settings. i can't find or recreate the red issue, but it's a simple fix. Sorry I can help more

Man I wish I got BNC to RCA adaptors with my TV because I can't use it without them right now. Grrrr.

Its all setup and sitting on a stand but my connectors don't arrive till MONDAY. All this waiting and I have to wait even longer, sigh.


I think places like Radio Shack have them, if you want them immediately. I ordered mine via monoprice, which would probably be cheaper (including shipping).

What Oppo unit did you get?

They only sell one DVD player, the OPDV971H.

Man I wish I got BNC to RCA adaptors with my TV because I can't use it without them right now. Grrrr.

Its all setup and sitting on a stand but my connectors don't arrive till MONDAY. All this waiting and I have to wait even longer, sigh.

You can get these at computer stores and RS carries them as well if I'm not mistaken.

Radio Shack: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104082&cp=2032058.2032231.2032281&page=2&parentPage=family

Has anyone had their TH-50PHD8UK professionally calibrated by a ISF Tech?

I received mine 4 days ago and I am extremely happy with the display but I feel that I could get a better image from this unit. I have all my setting set low for the brake in period but will like to optimize it’s performance once I have reached the 100 hours.

I am connected DVI to a HDMI card that I purchased with the unit. I am also thinking of upgrading my Dish box to a MPG4 with a HDMI connection, hoping that this will make a difference.

Any suggestions or advice will be appreciated.



Just a bit of information about the extended warranty from Panasonic.

I found out that Panasonic sales a great extended warranty for the TH-50PHD8UK

They all start after the first year warranty is over and you have until that day to purchase the extended warranty. It is an In-home service and they will replace the unit if deemed unrepeatable

Their warranty plans are as fallow.

1 Year for 299.95
2 Years for 449.95
3 Years for 599.95

Payments are divided into 4 and are automatically charged to your credit card every month.

Their phone number is 1-800-637-2007

Well after an incredibly long time of annoying my friends wih the details of the different models etc I have now made the plunge.
Finally ordered my plasma from Costco after it reappered on the website this afternoon.
Now I guess I have a lot of reading with all these posts and faqs!

Now - where should I get my hdmi blade from? Or should I get the DVI blade as it seem to be more 'forgiving'? And are the speakers worth getting?

Thanks for all your information and help. It was all the owners on here that finally convinced me this was the one to go for.

Quik Question about TH-50PHD8UK...

I hooked up my Panasonic dvd player , 8 years old, no component out. S-video is the best output. I haven't gotten the hdmi blade as yet, but wanted to know if buying a new dvd player and using the component out, would give me a much better picture? Thanx.

And are the speakers worth getting?

NO! I don't miss TV speakers at all. I would recommend just using your stereo for sound - you will get 5.1 sound that way along with your beautiful new HD image. (I do with my Motorola cable box anyway.)

If you don't have a stereo that can handle 5.1 sound - go buy one - they are really cheap now. Hell, open up the classifieds (in Los Angeles we have The Recycler) and get a used one for $100 or less.

A universal remote will take care of any complaints from the wife with regard to multiple remotes.

Finally ordered my plasma from Costco after it reappered on the website this afternoon.
I grabbed one today as well. I must say, its a little weird that the tv appears, then disappears at costco.com. It feels like a swap meet.... Whatever. In the end, I decided to pay about $300 more to buy it from costco for the peace of mind of always being able to take it back, no questions asked...

One other thing, costco.com said delivery could take up to 20 business days (4 weeks!). That's a long time to wait. Has anyone received one faster than this recently?

I also just bought one when it reappeared this afternoon, after hitting the refresh button for a few days. I hope it comes sooner than 20 days, since they already are charging my credit card. I better hurry up and order that mount...

NO! I don't miss TV speakers at all. I would recommend just using your stereo for sound - you will get 5.1 sound that way along with your beautiful new HD image. (I do with my Motorola cable box anyway.)

If you don't have a stereo that can handle 5.1 sound - go buy one - they are really cheap now. Hell, open up the classifieds (in Los Angeles we have The Recycler) and get a used one for $100 or less.

A universal remote will take care of any complaints from the wife with regard to multiple remotes.

Thanks. I already have a nice 5.1 system. May upgrade now Im getting a new tv!

Just wasnt sure if it was weird having it on surround all the time.

Will just stay with the stereo!

I also just bought one when it reappeared this afternoon, after hitting the refresh button for a few days. I hope it comes sooner than 20 days, since they already are charging my credit card. I better hurry up and order that mount...

According to their customer service it comes with the stand so mine will be on that for now.

Do need to go get the Oppo DVD player now. My old toshiba isnt going to cut it!

I grabbed one today as well. I must say, its a little weird that the tv appears, then disappears at costco.com. It feels like a swap meet.... Whatever. In the end, I decided to pay about $300 more to buy it from costco for the peace of mind of always being able to take it back, no questions asked...
Yeah its almost like a game to see how fast they can take it on and off. I bet they are watching this forum and laughing like mad!
Its interesting to see that 3 of us from here saw it today and got one.

The piece of mind of being able to return it any time was the final push for me too. I was all set to get it from one of the forum sponsors but by the time I added in an extended warranty Costco came out cheaper.

I dont see it on the website, they sell quick!

I went to setup and changed VGA mode from Component to VGA. Now I can use my laptop with the monitor ("red" problem resolved). Many thanks to you for the advice!!!

BTW, I'm thinking about purchasing Oppo player and wonder if it can play DIVX and XVID movies. Oppo is not in the list of certified DIVX players. Have you tried? How is the quality?

I connected my cable box via DVI to HDMI and the image quality SUCKS compared to straight component. Does anyone know why this is? I'm really upset because now I'm stuck having to get behind my TV and change the component wires just to play Xbox. What settings should I change to get a better picture with the DVI? Also what the hell is 3-2 pulldown and would it affect the DVI to HDMI connection. MY cable box does have a few pic setting too: Up-Convert-1, Up-Convert-2, fixed, auto DVI, and pass through. Does anyone know which I should be using?

One more thing, I have IO digital cable and the component pic rocks but I can't change the aspect ratio using the panny remote. I have to go through my cable box remote and goto stretch. The same thing happens with the DVI to HDMI connection. what the hell am I doing wrong cuz the strech pic from the box isn't that good either!!!!

Finally would S-Video be a better connection then the component and DVI to HDMI?

I connected my cable box via DVI to HDMI and the image quality SUCKS compared to straight component. Does anyone know why this is? I'm really upset because now I'm stuck having to get behind my TV and change the component wires just to play Xbox. What settings should I change to get a better picture with the DVI? Also what the hell is 3-2 pulldown and would it affect the DVI to HDMI connection. MY cable box does have a few pic setting too: Up-Convert-1, Up-Convert-2, fixed, auto DVI, and pass through. Does anyone know which I should be using?

One more thing, I have IO digital cable and the component pic rocks but I can't change the aspect ratio using the panny remote. I have to go through my cable box remote and goto stretch. The same thing happens with the DVI to HDMI connection. what the hell am I doing wrong cuz the strech pic from the box isn't that good either!!!!

Finally would S-Video be a better connection then the component and DVI to HDMI?

Sounds like you have the SA8300HD - I would put it in auto DVI or passthrough (i think they are the same thing). This will allow the shows native resolution to pass directly to the 8UK and allow it to do all of the processing. I am a bit shocked the HDMI looks worse though (I remember jfs2001 saying some of the newer boards may be better then the older ones, what model do you have?).

as for s-video - this is a lower quality connection than both the component and dvi.

one last thing - using passthrough will allow you to use the panny stretch modes on all but the 720p and 1080i sources (panny won't stretch those). right now you probably have your box in upconvert 1 or 2 which is converting all shows to either 720p or 1080i, therefore disabling the panny stretch modes.

Sounds like you have the SA8300HD - I would put it in auto DVI or passthrough (i think they are the same thing). This will allow the shows native resolution to pass directly to the 8UK and allow it to do all of the processing. I am a bit shocked the HDMI looks worse though (I remember jfs2001 saying some of the newer boards may be better then the older ones, what model do you have?).

as for s-video - this is a lower quality connection than both the component and dvi.

one last thing - using passthrough will allow you to use the panny stretch modes on all but the 720p and 1080i sources (panny won't stretch those). right now you probably have your box in upconvert 1 or 2 which is converting all shows to either 720p or 1080i, therefore disabling the panny stretch modes.
---------------------------------------

I would recommend to go through the advanced set-up:

- Do not include 720P and 480P in your input choices (so select 1080i and 480i)
- In your settings on the STB select pass-through.
- Using components (rather than HDMI) will be better out of the box. HDMI will be better with calibration (the color is too vivid out-of-the-box)

---------------------------------------

I would recommend to go through the advanced set-up:

- Do not include 720P and 480P in your input choices (so select 1080i and 480i)
- In your settings on the STB select pass-through.
- Using components (rather than HDMI) will be better out of the box. HDMI will be better with calibration (the color is too vivid out-of-the-box)


To clarify, I have the 50 7UY model, so not sure it will apply for the newer set.

I connected my cable box via DVI to HDMI and the image quality SUCKS compared to straight component. Does anyone know why this is? I'm really upset because now I'm stuck having to get behind my TV and change the component wires just to play Xbox. What settings should I change to get a better picture with the DVI? Also what the hell is 3-2 pulldown and would it affect the DVI to HDMI connection. MY cable box does have a few pic setting too: Up-Convert-1, Up-Convert-2, fixed, auto DVI, and pass through. Does anyone know which I should be using?

One more thing, I have IO digital cable and the component pic rocks but I can't change the aspect ratio using the panny remote. I have to go through my cable box remote and goto stretch. The same thing happens with the DVI to HDMI connection. what the hell am I doing wrong cuz the strech pic from the box isn't that good either!!!!

Finally would S-Video be a better connection then the component and DVI to HDMI?

If you have the SA 8300, make sure you disable 480i if using HDMI/DVI as the panel (like most panels) can't render 480i sources through a digital feed. Also, please follow Tony's suggestions noted above. I'm really surprised by your results using the HDMI feed as I noted a significant improvement in PQ when I switched from component to HDMI using the "8" series HDMI board. Unfortunately, the quality of the signal source plays a huge role in all of this as does the amount of compression that your local HD TV stations use when broadcasting HDTV. So, HDTV PQ often varies from market to market and from source to source. (Satellite TV vs. Digital cable is another example of this.)

As Tony noted, the Panny will not stretch HD material. You will have to either rely upon the STB's stretch mode or switch to a SD channel and have the Panny stretch non-HD material. As for 3:2 pull-down, I believe that the manual says that this only applies to non-digital source material (i.e., s-video, component or composite). 3:2 pulldown is used help movies and other source material that was originally filmed at 24 fps or 30 fps to look better when displayed at 60 fps. (Some users like the feature, others don't.) From what I understand, it is disabled by panel manufacturers when the panel is fed a digital signal.


Finally, as far as signal quality is concerned, composite video is the worst, followed by s-video. A lot of people claim that component is better than digital (HDMI/DVI), but I'm not one of them (and, I couldn't tell you what the "majority" rule is on this issue). There are pros and cons to both of the latter alternatives. Regardless, I'm sure that no one would argue in favor of composite or s-video.

hmmm, I do have the 7th gen HDMI (TY-FB7HM) on the 8th gen panny but the pic quality is just crappy. I'll try and make some adjustments today. Do you think I need to just the AVIA calibration disk for this or could I do it by eye? It anyone has the HDMI board calibration settings that I could use for a rough draft PLEASE o PLEASE post them, thanks.

I have had the box set on fixed and I still can't use the panny aspect ratio button. How do I disable the 480i? Also I can't get my negative screen wipe or screen saver to work because the ready button isn't highlighted.

BTW tony, jsf2001 and plazman thanks for the responses.

hmmm, I do have the 7th gen HDMI (TY-FB7HM) on the 8th gen panny but the pic quality is just crappy. I'll try and make some adjustments today. Do you think I need to just the AVIA calibration disk for this or could I do it by eye? It anyone has the HDMI board calibration settings that I could use for a rough draft PLEASE o PLEASE post them, thanks.

I have had the box set on fixed and I still can't use the panny aspect ratio button. How do I disable the 480i? Also I can't get my negative screen wipe or screen saver to work because the ready button isn't highlighted.

BTW tony, jsf2001 and plazman thanks for the responses.

I'm sure that I speak for Tony and Plazman when I say you're very welcome. That's what's great about this forum. We are all here to help each other.

I do think that it is probably worth your while to try the AVIA calibration as each panel is a little different and one person's calibration may not be right for you (especially since viewing environments impact this substantially and no two viewing environments are the same).

You can disable 480i in the STB's setup menu, but you have to do this on the box itself. You should have received instructions on how to do this when you got your STB. (I can't recall the specific buttons that you have to press to access this menu, unfortunately.) Once you do access the menu, choose the custom option and simply make sure that you disable 480i if you are using DVI/HDMI. Later, after you power back on, use your remote control to access the 2nd. setup menu (press menu twice on your remote) and enable auto DVI/HDMI.

Forgive me for asking a dumb question, but I know someone who made this mistake: Be sure that you are watching HDTV for local channels. The digital HD channels are DIFFERENT from the analog ones. On Comcast, the digital HD channels are in the 200's, while the regular network channels use single and double digits. You're not likely to see HD broadcasting until after 8:00 p.m. ESPN, INHD and a few others do provide 24 hour HD programming. (ESPN stretches the definition for this, however.)

I'm sure that I speak for Tony and Plazman when I say you're very welcome. That's what's great about this forum. We are all here to help each other.

I do think that it is probably worth your while to try the AVIA calibration as each panel is a little different and one person's calibration may not be right for you (especially since viewing environments impact this substantially and no two viewing environments are the same).

You can disable 480i in the STB's setup menu, but you have to do this on the box itself. You should have received instructions on how to do this when you got your STB. (I can't recall the specific buttons that you have to press to access this menu, unfortunately.) Once you do access the menu, choose the custom option and simply make sure that you disable 480i if you are using DVI/HDMI. Later, after you power back on, use your remote control to access the 2nd. setup menu (press menu twice on your remote) and enable auto DVI/HDMI.

Forgive me for asking a dumb question, but I know someone who made this mistake: Be sure that you are watching HDTV for local channels. The digital HD channels are DIFFERENT from the analog ones. On Comcast, the digital HD channels are in the 200's, while the regular network channels use single and double digits. You're not likely to see HD broadcasting until after 8:00 p.m. ESPN, INHD and a few others do provide 24 hour HD programming. (ESPN stretches the definition for this, however.)

Thanks yet again and I am definatly watching the HD channels (channel 7 is really nice compared to the other local one). but I could see how someone would make that mistake. Maybe one day I'll get the iscon upconverter and have everything in HD :)

I just received my 8UK this weekend and have been blown away at how great it looks. I still need to do some calibration but I had a few questions about a couple things that I had noticed.

Rapsheet:
50PHD8uk 50"
Aperion 533PT L/R
SA8300 STB DVR
Paradigm PDR-10 sub
Oppo DVD player OPDV971H
XBox

**JVC RXD702B arriving this week
**XBox 360 soon


- This unit was manufactured in Mexico, so the issue of quality preys on my mind. At times I have noticed when the screen is very dark (LOTR for instance), where a discolored grayish bar slowly crawls up the screen which is extremely noticable to me and very disconcerting. It's just a slight tint of whatever color is on the screen at the time. Is this a defect or perhaps a setting that I might need to change? I was hoping it was isolated only to my Oppo DVD player but I saw it while watching in HD as well as frustrates me to no end. I have it connected by component right now but should have my HDMi blade here this week. Would that go towards correcting this at all?

- I just purchased a JVC receiver with 2 HDMI in, 1 out. My question is would I hypothetically be able to put in 2 Xboxes and then use PIP to split the screen and play both of them simultaneously? Would the sound be an issue though since it's both going through the same receivers but are coming from 2 different inputs?

- I would like to try and connect my PC as well to the monitor, my video card has component, DVI and (I think) S-video. I had seen up higher that none of those are really great but which would be best. Would it be better to go through the receiver or the PDP?

I'm sure there's a litany of other things I want to fix/tweak but I'm not looking at the PDP right now (unfortunately). Funny story is we got it mounted on the wall Sunday night, and my roommate told a couple people about it. So last night when I got home from work there were 9 people sitting in my living room watching "24" in HD...Good to see others are enjoying it as much as I am :cool:

hmmm, I do have the 7th gen HDMI (TY-FB7HM) on the 8th gen panny but the pic quality is just crappy. I'll try and make some adjustments today. Do you think I need to just the AVIA calibration disk for this or could I do it by eye? It anyone has the HDMI board calibration settings that I could use for a rough draft PLEASE o PLEASE post them, thanks.

I have had the box set on fixed and I still can't use the panny aspect ratio button. How do I disable the 480i? Also I can't get my negative screen wipe or screen saver to work because the ready button isn't highlighted.

BTW tony, jsf2001 and plazman thanks for the responses.

-----------

Avia settings:

for DVD/1080i (Component)

Cinema

Picture: 12
Brightness: -2
Sharpness: 0
Color Temp: Normal
Color Management: ON
Color: -1
Advanced: ON
Black Ext: 1
W/B High Red: -7
W/B High Blue: -15
W/B Low Red: 8
W/B Low Blue: 9
Gamma: 2.2
AGC:ON

When viewing SD TV (I use S-Video)

I use standard setting with the following modifications. To overcome the limitations of the source system

Picture: 0
Brightness: -17
Color: -4
Sharpness: 7
Color Management: ON
AGC:ON

Can any of the new PHD8UK owner check to see if the panel is still manufactured in Japan or is it now shifted to Mexico like what's been reported for the new TH-42PX60U? Thanks.

Can any of the new PHD8UK owner check to see if the panel is still manufactured in Japan or is it now shifted to Mexico like what's been reported for the new TH-42PX60U? Thanks.

My 65" 8UK was manufactured in Japan.

Can any of the new PHD8UK owner check to see if the panel is still manufactured in Japan or is it now shifted to Mexico like what's been reported for the new TH-42PX60U? Thanks.


I received mine three days ago, manufactured in Mexico.

Ok I got my picture alittle better but the stretch mode is not an option for many many of the SD channels. I don't mind but I don't want the black bars on the side burning into my TV. How bad are those blk bars anyway and is there a way to make them go away on SD channels?

Ok I got my picture alittle better but the stretch mode is not an option for many many of the SD channels. I don't mind but I don't want the black bars on the side burning into my TV. How bad are those blk bars anyway and is there a way to make them go away on SD channels?

This makes no sense to me, Hooptie....If you are watching SD, stretch should work for you. But, if you are watching non full-screen HD on an HD channel, that does not qualify as SD and you will need to use the STB for stretch mode.

Greetings,

Does the costco model of the phd8uk come with a stand? i've read conflicting reports on this. To my knowledge the commercial model is display ONLY. Thanks for your time

GNE

-----------

Avia settings:

for DVD (Component) - using AVIA

Cinema

Picture: 12
Brightness: -2
Sharpness: 0
Color Temp: Normal
Color Management: ON
Color: -1
Advanced: ON
Black Ext: 1
W/B High Red: -7
W/B High Blue: -15
W/B Low Red: 8
W/B Low Blue: 9
Gamma: 2.2
AGC:ON

When viewing SD TV (I use S-Video)

I use standard setting with the following modifications. To overcome the limitations of the source system

Picture: 0
Brightness: -17
Color: -4
Sharpness: 7
Color Management: ON
AGC:ON

---------------------

Another option (works for HD viewing) is: You'll get the looking throughb window look here.

Picture: -3
Brightness: -14
Sharpness: 0
Color Temp: Normal
Sharpness: 5
Color Management: ON
Color: -1
Advanced: ON
Black Ext: 1
W/B High Red: -7
W/B High Blue: -15
W/B Low Red: 8
W/B Low Blue: 9
Gamma: 2.5
AGC:ON

This makes no sense to me, Hooptie....If you are watching SD, stretch should work for you. But, if you are watching non full-screen HD on an HD channel, that does not qualify as SD and you will need to use the STB for stretch mode.

Jsf2001, I'm not sure what the hell is going on either but I'll take pics tonight and post them up here.

What resolution would force the SD images to be stretched?

BTW my box is a SA4200HD

Jsf2001, I'm not sure what the hell is going on either but I'll take pics tonight and post them up here.

What resolution would force the SD images to be stretched?

BTW my box is a SA4200HD

Your issue is unusual. Normally, I'd say none. But, I'm going to say 720p or 1080i in this case because I suspect that, somehow, you eliminated 480i and 480p signal throughput on the SA 4200. So, your display thinks that all signals are HD and the SA4200 is doing the stretching before it gets to the panel. In fact, now that I think about it, I bet that is what is going on. You probably have a setting wrong in the SA4200. Check all the menus in the STB for that first.

JSF2001, sent you a PM

Just got my 50PHD8UK yesterday from VA. Great picture. And I still have to see how it looks with a real HDTV signal when my cable company comes tomorrow to give me a box.
I just have a standard progressive DVD player, nothing special. I debated getting something fancier and more expensive, but not being a videophile, I figured I probably wouldn't be able to tell a difference.

I am debating on whether to get one of those do-it-yourself DVDs to adjust the picture. Do you guys think it makes a big difference with this plasma?

Anyway I have a question. How do I hook up an xbox to the system? I have the XBOX HDTV package and I just need to get the component cables. I know I can pass the component to my Yamaha receiver. But how will the signal get to the TV itself since the receiver really isn't connected to the TV? Thanks

I hook my xbox directly to my component input on my panny. Games look great but not as good as my pc hooked up to the vga connection on the panny. DVD's from the xbox via component look ok but I bet it would look twice as better with a better DVD player. I need a DVD player.

JSF2001, sent you a PM

Thanks....Just got it and replied.

any chance costco gets these back in stock..I know there hit or miss with inventory....also for those who have received the 50phd8uk from costco did it come with a stand? im hearing conflicting reports, I know its sold without the stand normally..thanks

GNE

Argggghhh, finally got out to see what everyone was talking about with the yellow flicker / trails in moving contrasty scenes :( Now I have to see if other plasmas have this effect or as noticable. Just when I thought I knew what display to buy.

My TH-50PHD8UK is shipping on Monday and D* is coming Friday

what I have planned right now is-

D* HR10-250 DVR via HMDI to 8UK (found a TY-FB8HM board)
Oppo 971 DVD via DVI to 8UK (TY-42TM6D DVI board)
Sony HT receiver STRK502P via S-video to 8UK (just for VCR and PS2)

then I will hook up my HT speakers via digital audio inputs from the STB and Oppo.

Do you think I should buy also the Avia or DVE disks? good idea? I want to have everything ready to go next week, thanks

Anything I'm forgetting here? (STB and Oppo both come with cables I believe)

thanks!

please tell where you got the 8th gen hdmi board

please tell where you got the 8th gen hdmi board

http://www.complete-it.ca/PlasmaDisplayVideoCards/

I got my 50phd8uk couple of weeks ago. Manufactured in december in Japan.

what I have planned right now is-
D* HR10-250 DVR via HMDI to 8UK (found a TY-FB8HM board)
Oppo 971 DVD via DVI to 8UK (TY-42TM6D DVI board)
Please, please, please give us your critique of PQ between the DVI and the new FB8HM. :o
Wish you had a 7 series HDMI to compare with the 8! :)

sorry guys to interrupt, but I just a quick confirmation that the 8UK accepts DVI input from PC ... and what resolutions does it accepts?

Thank you.

After contacting Panasonic about their new HDMI card (TY-FB8HM) wish they assure me that it has not been release to the market and they do not know when it will. I was told that the only difference is that the new card will handle 50HZ as well as 60HZ this is so it can be used in the European market. Also I was told that the TY-FB7HM could only handle 1080i and they were not sure if the TY-FB8HM would be able to handle 1080P.
In the same conversation we were talking about the native display capabilities of this plasma and I was told that it could take in an 1080P signal but it would only be able to display it at 720P or slightly better because to display 1080i or 1080P you must have a TV capable of displaying 1,920 X 1,080 resolution. This will enable you to see your true 1080i or 1080P, at its native resolution. With this plasma as well as with any other out there in the market you will be putting in 1080i and stepping it down to 720p.

The TY-FB7H handles 720p as I have one installed on my 50PHD7UY and it works flawlessly.

The TY-FB7H handles 720p as I have one installed on my 50PHD7UY and it works flawlessly.

I am using my TY-FB7H to display at 1080i and I have also used it at 720p and I know it works great. I am in the market for my second HDMI input card to connect an Oppo and I want it to be able to handle 1080p for a future PS3.

.

The TY-FB7HM and TY-FB8HM Boards don't accept 1080p signals.


__________________________________
BruZZi's Panasonic Plasma FAQ — bruzzi.ws
Lots of info for all Plasmas in general.

.

The TY-FB7HM and TY-FB8HM Boards don't accept 1080p signals.


I guess there is no reason to wait or pay more for the
TY-FB8HM. Dow know how will we be able to bring in the 1080p input on this system if neither of the two HDMI boards accept 1080p?

I have been lurking on these forums trying to decide what to get and it has come down to this set. There is only one brick and mortar store that can get these sets in. I have 2 questions to help with my setup if i can ever get a set... the price is hard enough to get let alone the acutual unit (the company has a great reputation, they are just having issues with getting the units as stated before in other posts)

1) what height from the floor are most of your units? I am building a custom mount/rack for all the audio units, players, etc.

2) any problems with glare from light from outside or windows. Our main viewing area is upstairs in the living room and there are 3 windows at different angles which can make viewing in the daytime challenging on my old set (46" rca 3x4 rear projection bigscreen)

thanks you for your help

I guess there is no reason to wait or pay more for the
TY-FB8HM. Dow know how will we be able to bring in the 1080p input on this system if neither of the two HDMI boards accept 1080p?


I believe that someone was able to get 1080p (30fps and 24fps) to work via DVI and I had thought that there was another person who commented that, while not included in the specs for the HDMI board, the board would allow the 1080p (24fps and 30fps) signal to pass to the display. (The 8UK series will not display 1080p @ 60fps.) But, I'm not certain of either of these beliefs. I do know that the panel will accept the 1080p (24fps and 30fps) signal through one of the input sources (pc? rgb?), but can't say for certain which one it is.

HDMI specs do not include 1080p at present. While manufacturers may not publish non-HDMI specs for their HDMI inputs, I believe that several people have commented that the HDMI inputs may, as a practical matter, allow for more flexibility of signal than advertised. I guess we'll all learn more about this as time goes by.

1) what height from the floor are most of your units? I am building a custom mount/rack for all the audio units, players, etc.

2) any problems with glare from light from outside or windows. Our main viewing area is upstairs in the living room and there are 3 windows at different angles which can make viewing in the daytime challenging on my old set (46" rca 3x4 rear projection bigscreen)

1: My 50-8UK's bottom line is at 3 ft from the floor.

2: I live in AZ where we have lot of sunlight and initialiy thought that glare might be the problem. I hang the unit on VMPL2 a t 5 degrees and very happy. Image is bright and there is no "glare" that could disturb. I have 5 windows in the living room.

HDMI specs do not include 1080p at present. While manufacturers may not publish non-HDMI specs for their HDMI inputs, I believe that several people have commented that the HDMI inputs may, as a practical matter, allow for more flexibility of signal than advertised. I guess we'll all learn more about this as time goes by.


HDMI 1.0 like DVI does allow for 1080P. It is the manufacturers that decide if they want to support it.

-- Rich

HDMI 1.0 like DVI does allow for 1080P. It is the manufacturers that decide if they want to support it.

-- Rich
I believe that on May 23rd Sony will release their first Blue-Ray DVD player. I will look at the connectivity options and their frame rate specification on this unit.
If the TH-50PHD8UK could handle 1080p I will think that there is a way to bring this type of signal into the system.

I believe that on May 23rd Sony will release their first Blue-Ray DVD player. I will look at the connectivity options and their frame rate specification on this unit.
If the TH-50PHD8UK could handle 1080p I will think that there is a way to bring this type of signal into the system.

There is very little chance that it will accept 1080P DVI.

- Rich

There is very little chance that it will accept 1080P DVI.

- Rich
Rich, I must say that I can’t disagree. If anything HDMI would be best suited for 1080p

Rich, I must say that I can’t disagree. If anything HDMI would be best suited for 1080p

So if you can't disagree you must agree :D

It is not about what is best, it is a about what is and the HDMI card for the 5UK does list 1080P as a supported resolution.

- Rich