My 50PHD8UK impressions [Text View] - Page 4

muttt

03-14-06, 12:21 AM

Hi all,
First of all, thanks for this great thread. Just awesome info in here.

And my 8UK is on the way. Can't wait for it to get here!

Anyway, I had a quick question about connecting my laptop through the VGA connection. I already have a wireless mouse and keyboard, and would love to be able to PIP (or POP) my desktop and TV signals from the comfort of my couch.

That said, I'm definitely mobile within my apartment with my laptop.

So my question is, does anyone have thoughts on how to create an "open" VGA connection, such that I can just plug in my laptop when I so choose? I'm not too knowledgable where electronics are concerned, and I have no idea whether a (carefully placed) dangling VGA cable from a $3,000 TV is very smart. (And wouldn't connecting it when both machines are on fry one of them?)

Thanks in advance for the advice...

Yamadr6

03-14-06, 05:52 AM

The 50PHD7UY accepts an analog 1080p/24fs signal through the PC input. The question is whether the Blu-Ray player will pass a 1080p/24fs signal via the component output. If it does, it should work on the 7UY and I assume the 8UK.
From the research that I have done on the Blue-Ray and on HD-DVD players coming soon there will be no 720P or higher coming out of an analog output because of copyrights.

citman

03-14-06, 04:25 PM

After contacting Panasonic about their new HDMI card (TY-FB8HM) wish they assure me that it has not been release to the market and they do not know when it will. I was told that the only difference is that the new card will handle 50HZ as well as 60HZ this is so it can be used in the European market. Also I was told that the TY-FB7HM could only handle 1080i and they were not sure if the TY-FB8HM would be able to handle 1080P.
In the same conversation we were talking about the native display capabilities of this plasma and I was told that it could take in an 1080P signal but it would only be able to display it at 720P or slightly better because to display 1080i or 1080P you must have a TV capable of displaying 1,920 X 1,080 resolution. This will enable you to see your true 1080i or 1080P, at its native resolution. With this plasma as well as with any other out there in the market you will be putting in 1080i and stepping it down to 720p.

well I guess that the FB8HM that I have sitting in my living room right now is just a figment of my imagination then. :D

They ARE available as I posted before and I also recall reading here (can't find the post) that the 8HM not only supported more resolutions, but had better greyscaling as well IIRC.

My set arrives tomorrow and my Oppo and D* install on Friday! I can't wait....I'm stoked :D

EDIT- I found the post about the differences on these from JSF2001-

Jim, both the 7HM and 8HM HDMI blades double the grayscale steps. The big difference with the 8HM blade is that it doubles the number of lines simultaneously displayed when viewing 1080i source material. (This conclusion is based on information provided in the manuals for both the 7HM and 8HM blades. There is a possibility that the 7HM and/or the 8HM manual may contain a misprint, but I doubt it.) The number of lines displayed for 1080i source material may suggest that the 7HM blade "bobs" when displaying 1080i. (If you go through the various threads on this forum, you'll find a long discussion on this very topic and a study that was recently completed and reported in Home Theatre Magazine.)

Regardless, I have noticed a distinct difference in PQ on my 8UK between component input and HDMI input using the 8HM blade. Can I tell you that the improvement is due to the increase in grayscale steps? Nope. Then again, do I really need to know why it is better? Nope. I'm just a very happy camper, if you know what I mean.

Having said this, the PQ with component was also excellent, just not as good as with HDMI.

TechoFobe

03-14-06, 05:08 PM

jsf2001

03-14-06, 05:13 PM

Magnatest

03-14-06, 05:17 PM

Me too! Me too!

Yamadr6

03-14-06, 05:24 PM

well I guess that the FB8HM that I have sitting in my living room right now is just a figment of my imagination then. :D

They ARE available as I posted before and I also recall reading here (can't find the post) that the 8HM not only supported more resolutions, but had better greyscaling as well IIRC.

My set arrives tomorrow and my Oppo and D* install on Friday! I can't wait....I'm stoked :D

EDIT- I found the post about the differences on these from JSF2001-
Citman, I found your post with the website were you got you FB8HM blade from. It is in Canada, I am wondering if it is available in Canada before it is in the USA. I have the manual and after checking the specs on this blade the only difference I see is that the FB8HM supports PAL. This may be the reason why it is available in Canada first.

What's the difference between the TY-FB7HM & TY-FB8HM HDMI Boards?

The newer TY-FB8HM HDMI Board supports additional PAL Resolutions.

This link will take you to Bruzzi’s site and there is great info here
http://www.glaucobruzzi.com/plasma-faq/showthread.php?t=33

citman

03-14-06, 05:54 PM

citman,

Oh yeah? Well my TY-FB7HM can do the dishes, sweep the floor AND feed the dog! Ha! :D

Did you forget to take your halucination prescriptions again? :o

Personally I am looking forward to getting the TY-FB9HM next week... I have read that it triples the resolution AND will wash my car too!

Don't forget to say abracadabra before you mount that blade! :) Oh yeah, I almost forgot: ENJOY!

ROFLMAO!
hey...I don't know jack...but I figured I'd get the latest one, ya know? and yes, it was from Canada. I hope that Jsf is right about the greyscaling....but who knows for sure? All I know is that it's gonna rock fer sure :cool:

and.....ABRACADABRA....ROOTA ROOTA ZOOT....HOCUS POCUS...ALAKAZAAM!
(I think that covers it? Hopefully my installation this week will go well :D )

jsf2001

03-14-06, 05:58 PM

Citman, I found your post with the website were you got you FB8HM blade from. It is in Canada, I am wondering if it is available in Canada before it is in the USA. I have the manual and after checking the specs on this blade the only difference I see is that the FB8HM supports PAL. This may be the reason why it is available in Canada first.

What's the difference between the TY-FB7HM & TY-FB8HM HDMI Boards?

The newer TY-FB8HM HDMI Board supports additional PAL Resolutions.

This link will take you to Bruzzi’s site and there is great info here
http://www.glaucobruzzi.com/plasma-faq/showthread.php?t=33

As I noted to BruZZi some time ago, the manuals do suggest that there is another difference between the 2 boards, that being that the "8" series shows double the lines of the "7" series board with 1080i signal sources. It's on page 7 of each manual. If you google for the manual, you can read it as well. Whether or not this is a typo in the "7" series manual, I can't say. All I can say is that I'm enjoying absolutely stellar PQ with the "8" series board.

BruZZi

03-14-06, 06:43 PM

As I noted to BruZZi some time ago, the manuals do suggest that there is another difference between the 2 boards, that being that the "8" series shows double the lines of the "7" series board with 1080i signal sources. It's on page 7 of each manual. If you google for the manual, you can read it as well. Whether or not this is a typo in the "7" series manual, I can't say. All I can say is that I'm enjoying absolutely stellar PQ with the "8" series board.

Yup.

Sorry, I have to update the FAQ with this info.

Thanks again jsf2001. :) :) :)

__________________________________
BruZZi's Panasonic Plasma FAQ — bruzzi.ws
Lots of info for all Plasmas in general.

jsf2001

03-14-06, 06:55 PM

Yup.

Sorry, I have to update the FAQ with this info.

Thanks again jsf2001. :) :) :)

__________________________________
BruZZi's Panasonic Plasma FAQ — bruzzi.ws
Lots of info for all Plasmas in general.

You're the man, BruZZi....Most of would have been lost without all of your hard work and great advice. Thank YOU! :) :) :)

Hooptie157

03-14-06, 07:43 PM

jsf2001 you've been very helpful but my porblems still persist. I may have to go teh DVR box route to remedy them

stretch1010

03-14-06, 07:46 PM

I just hooked up my 8UK this past weekend via a 15ft, 28 gauge HDMI cable from Monoprice. The cable box is the SA8300. As I was browsing through the HD channels, I noticed some pixelation around the edges of the images and when the picture would change, I saw some pixelation almost like the screen was "resetting" itself. Some channels were worse than others and some programs were worse than others on the same channel, however, some channels were almost perfect.

My question, is there something I can do to eliminate this? I tried to switch out the HDMI cable with a 6 ft one I purchased from Monoprice and that did not fix it. I should mention, I usually sit about 12 ft away from the TV. I noticed it very slightly when I sat at this distance but really noticed it as I walked toward the TV. I understand when you are 2 ft. away from a 50" screen, you are bound to see "pixelation/graniness" but it just doesn't seem right to me.

I was thinking of buying a monster cable just to rule out the Monprice cable but I don't think that is it. I also hope it is not the TV itself, since some HD channels are great and others are not very good.

I have fooled around with the picture settings but have not calibrated the TV since it is very new. Not sure if that will eventually fix things.

Any info anyone has on this pixelation/jagged edginess would help.

RichB

03-14-06, 08:06 PM

stretch1010,

You may want to try a monoprice 24 gage HDMI cable and a shorter one if you do not need the extra length.

-- Rich

Hooptie157

03-14-06, 08:32 PM

Stretch I sent you a PM about this.

jsf2001

03-14-06, 08:33 PM

jsf2001 you've been very helpful but my porblems still persist. I may have to go teh DVR box route to remedy them

I'm sorry that it hasn't worked out for you yet, Hooptie, but thanks for the update. If I can be of any additional help, don't hesitate to ask. As for the DVR box solution, I think it may work for you and, if you're not happy with the DVR aspect of the box, you probably will be able to cancel the DVR service without giving the box up.

Let us know how it works out for you and good luck with things.

jsf2001

03-14-06, 08:37 PM

mnn1265

03-14-06, 09:33 PM

Got my 8UK two days ago and finally got it hooked up to make sure all was well... Looks great! Even from the cheap DVD player I used to test it looked fantastic. The 8UK itself looks great even when it's not turned on. I'll update more as I get it mounted and setup.

Yamadr6

03-15-06, 06:23 AM

You're the man, BruZZi....Most of would have been lost without all of your hard work and great advice. Thank YOU! :) :) :)
I must agree with jsf2001, BruZZi’s info has been extremely useful. Thanks for all the hard work Bruzzi.
Ok, enough about the TY-FB8HM. I will just wait until they release it in my area and purchase one then. Until that time there will be no Oppo. I don’t want to buy an Oppo and have to hook it up thru an analog signal and my TY-FB7HM I am using for my Dish HD box (Vip211).

Good luck with your board Citman but I won’t be buying that board from Canada I just don’t trust it. Panasonic techs swear that it has not been released.

stretch1010

03-15-06, 08:17 AM

jsf2001

03-15-06, 09:03 AM

jsf2001,

I have not tried to amplify the signal. I guess that is one thing I can try. After reading some of the previous posts, it seems that it may be the HDMI board. When I ordered the TV from VA, I ordered the 8 series HDMI board and they sent me the 7 series since that is all they had in stock.

They told me that the only difference was the PAL thing but now it seems that may not be the only difference. Needless to say, since I am having slight PQ issues, I am calling VA up and having them send me the 8 series to see if that corrects the problem.

I may also try to boost the signal and try the 24 gauge HDMI cables just to sure everything up.

I guess that it could be the HDMI board, but the issue would not be "7" series vs. "8" series board. I still think that it may be worth your while to run down to Radio Shack and buy an inexpensive 15db signal amplifier and see if that helps. I'm not saying that it will (likelihood is probably no better than 25%), but at least it will rule yet another possibility out.

All things being equal, I do recommend the "8" series board over the "7" series for the 8UK. Contrary to what another posted heard from a Panny tech, the "8" series board does exist and that Canadian source is very reliable and responsible. Sometimes I wonder about some of the information that people get from supposedly "plugged-in" sources. Having said that, I've benefitted greatly from assistance that I've personally received from senior Panny techs in their broadcast division. They've been great.

citman

03-15-06, 09:41 AM

Yamadr6

03-15-06, 01:30 PM

I'm looking at the 8 board package right now-
It says TY-FB8HM on the outside of the box with Panasonic offical printing and barcodes etc...

Inside the box is a 8HM manual AND a factory stamped proof of purchase slip in Japanese that has TY-FB8HM stamped into it AND a factory serial number...

The board itself has a barcoded label on it that says TY-FB8HM AND the serial number....which matches exactly the Japanese proof of purchase slip :D

SO...I have absolutely NO reason to believe that this is not indeed a true 8HM board. What the Panasonic guy told you was either a lie.....or he really doesn't know what he's talking about IMO

just FYI :rolleyes:

*I'm sitting at home now awaiting the DHL guy for my set and Peerless wall mount....HURRY UP GOD DAMMIT!!! :D :D :D
Citman, in all honest opinion I believe you when you say that the board you have is the TY-FB8HM. I got back on the phone today and spoke to Panasonic tech and sales department for the industrial monitors.
(Tech support center for industrial models 1-800-524-1448 Option 1)
The TY-FB8HM is available in Canada because it is a different division. No one could comment on why it is available there and not in the U.S. What I did find out from different people in different departments is that the TY-FB8HM was do to be released in October 2005 and has been delayed 3 times because of design complications. As of right now there is not date as of when it would be released in the U.S if at all.
The TY-FB7HM will take in the 1080p signal but it will downgrade it to 1080i.
One of the reps in the Panasonic industrial monitor division said that it may be possible that they may never release the TY-FB8HM in the U.S but instead release a different version to accept the 1080p. He went ahead and stated that to his knowledge the main reason that it was not released here is because the only difference was that it could handle PAL and for the U.S market this is not an Issue. If anyone has more info please share it with the rest of us.

Best of luck with it.

citman

03-15-06, 01:59 PM

As I noted to BruZZi some time ago, the manuals do suggest that there is another difference between the 2 boards, that being that the "8" series shows double the lines of the "7" series board with 1080i signal sources. It's on page 7 of each manual. If you google for the manual, you can read it as well. Whether or not this is a typo in the "7" series manual, I can't say. All I can say is that I'm enjoying absolutely stellar PQ with the "8" series board.

Yam- ask the Pana guy your talking to about that. I'm with Jsf on this one in believing that the manuals weren't misprinted and the 8 board will be better in greyscaling. I could be wrong...who knows.

I'm sure they will eventually come out with a new HDMI board (FB9HM?) for the 1080 thing...but when?

End of this rant...both boards will be great....set will be great and we all made the right choice for our purchases IMO. DHL still not here :mad:

Jake1221

03-15-06, 08:08 PM

SpineRep

03-15-06, 08:46 PM

Jake,
You will be running component video cables from your Comcast box component output to the component input on the TV. BNC is basically just a locking connector used in most commercial applications, you will need adapters to hook up your component cable they can be found here BNC Connector (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102688&cp=2032058&fbn=Cable+type%2FAdapter&f=Taxonomy%2FRSK%2F2032058&fbc=1&categoryId=2032058&kwCatId=2032058&kw=bnc&parentPage=search).

As far as your home theater set up goes. You will more than likely want to hook your Comcast box up to the stereo/HT, not the TV. As the TV doesn't have speakers. The Comcast box should have a digital output either for coaxial or toslink. Just make the connection and you should have sound! Hope this helps!!

Russ

jhowell

03-16-06, 12:16 AM

I've read a lot of posts and I have the following questions. I purchased the 50PHD8UK and the TY-FB7HM. to be mounted above fireplace where no power / etc exists. I own a RX-V1500 Yamaha Receiver and a HKTS 14 Harmon Kardon HT Speakers.

I plan to purchase HR10-250 (add HD space how?), Harmony Remote (which model), all cables (HDMI, Optical, BNC, etc.), Surge protector (In SoCal, so a power conditioner may be overkill?), Tilting wall mount (looking at Sanus VMPL50).

Here are my questions:

HR10-250 via HDMI to 8UK
DVD Player (RCA) to (BNC) Component inputs?
Will the below connect via the RX-V1500? Use the VGA input?
VCR Player connects how? Only has Coax and one Video RCA out (yellow)
Gaming consoles / Camcorder connects how?
All Audio connections will be fiber where available.

I will route all cables through the wall via conduit as I will need to run power anyway. As you can imagine, I want to do this once only so it's important that I get it all right (I'm not sure if I can run cable after the fact). Please recommend what should be routed, keeping in mind a computer connection? When the HD DVD player is released?

What is a THX optomizer and White crush? I guess they allow you to adjust the monitor settings? Will I need this? What else will I need? Any suggestions?

What are the list of items I need to do during inital setup. I've read the burn in procedures, but is there another list that addresses stuff like:

1. Turn down brightness and contrast on set to 50%
2. Modify the STB to allow the digital signal to stretch the screen (due to the HDMI input)

Thank you in advance for your help.

Jeff

Yamadr6

03-16-06, 06:38 AM

Jhowell,

The first thing NOT to do is run signal wires in the same conduit as your power. This could create noise that might appear on your video or audio. Second if you plan to run all your cables via conduit you are going to need at least 2.5 inch conduit. Have in mind that the cables are thick and the ends of the cables have some kind of connector (HDMI/DVI/RCA) on it.
Another thing to have in mind is that this plasma is extremely susceptible to heat. Make sure to take to proper precautions to keep the heat from rising up to the Plasma. You will find in the manual the room temperature recommended. (Operating Conditions: 32F – 104F with 20 to 80% humidity. This located on page 45 in your manual.)
I my self, have been wanting to install a fireplace underneath of my TH-50PHD8UK but have not done it because of these speciation. I am researching the proper heat shield and vents to do this Install.

If anyone has this setup please advise.

jsf2001

03-16-06, 07:00 AM

Jhowell,

The first thing NOT to do is run signal wires in the same conduit as your power. This could create noise that might appear on your video or audio. Second if you plan to run all your cables via conduit you are going to need at least 2.5 inch conduit. Have in mind that the cables are thick and the ends of the cables have some kind of connector (HDMI/DVI/RCA) on it.

For what it is worth - and I know that it is technically not allowed by the electrical code - I have run my electric cord, 2 HDMI cables and 1 set of component through a common 3" conduit in the wall behind my 65"8UK and have had no negative impact on PQ. The electric line is, however, connected to a power conditioner outside of the wall and the HDMI and component cables are of high quality and are well shielded. Technically, the electric code does not allow an electrical cord to be run in an in-wall conduit. The code demands that all in-wall wiring be "hard wired" to protect against fire. But, I can't see how running an electrical cord through 3' - 4' of in-wall conduit and plugging the cord directly into an outlet outside the wall presents a fire hazzard.

Yamadr6

03-16-06, 07:54 AM

For what it is worth - and I know that it is technically not allowed by the electrical code - I have run my electric cord, 2 HDMI cables and 1 set of component through a common 3" conduit in the wall behind my 65"8UK and have had no negative impact on PQ. The electric line is, however, connected to a power conditioner outside of the wall and the HDMI and component cables are of high quality and are well shielded. Technically, the electric code does not allow an electrical cord to be run in an in-wall conduit. The code demands that all in-wall wiring be "hard wired" to protect against fire. But, I can't see how running an electrical cord through 3' - 4' of in-wall conduit and plugging the cord directly into an outlet outside the wall presents a fire hazzard.
The key in this application is that you took the proper precautions, like a power conditioner and most important properly shielded wires.
As far as the fire issue goes I don’t think you are going to have a problem. The most important thing is using the proper gage wire for the power consumption. Another thing to have in mind is, what else is in that circuit. If you are taking power from an existing circuit where you have other things plugged in like a blender, refrigerator etc… you might also pick up noise or over load that circuit.
Most people don’t have an oscilloscope in their house and most modern electronics like the TH-50PHD8UK have noise filters that will eliminate most of these issues.
So if you have the right gage wire and high quality cables that are well shielded you should be O.K. All I am trying to say is that if it's a new Installation and you are able to have two separate conduits it is best to do so and even better if it is on it’s own circuit (breaker) or one witch is not overloaded. A power conditioner is also a great idea.

jsf2001

03-16-06, 07:58 AM

The key in this application is that you took the proper precautions, like a power conditioner and most important properly shielded wires.
As far as the fire issue goes I don’t think you are going to have a problem. The most important thing is using the proper gage wire for the power consumption. Another thing to have in mind is, what else is in that circuit. If you are taking power from an existing circuit where you have other things plugged in like a blender, refrigerator etc… you might also pick up noise or over load that circuit.
Most people don’t have an oscilloscope in their house and most modern electronics like the TH-50PHD8UK have noise filters that will eliminate most of these issues.
So if you have the right gage wire and high quality cables that are well shielded you should be O.K. All I am trying to say is that if it's a new Installation and you are able to have two separate conduits it is best to do so and even better if it is on it’s own circuit (breaker) or one witch is not overloaded. A power conditioner is also a great idea.

I think you're right, Yamadr6. At least, I sure hope so as it helps me sleep better at night. :)

Jake1221

03-16-06, 08:54 AM

Thanks a lot Russ, that helps. So the hookup from the cable box to the TV is the 3 cord component wiring, with three BNC adapters needed for the TV. Question - is the component wiring better than S-video, and is it really worth upgrading to an HDMI connection?

The home theater is then the same 3 cord component wiring, but will be from the cable box to the home theater, and BNC is not needed, is that correct? So the sound for the home theater is pulled from the cable feed?

Finally, I have read in some reviews of this TV that HD feeds are not displayed full screen. Have any of you experienced this problem?

Again, thanks, reassurance is a great thing.

citman

03-16-06, 10:29 AM

Hi guys. I am this close to buying the 8UK, but just had a few questions. Please don't laugh at these, as I am not good with this stuff, but I know a good picture when I see one and I have my heart set on the 8UK.

First, I will be using a Comcast HD receiver - how will this hook into the TV if I do not opt for the HDMI board?

Second, I plan on using the Panasonic HT930 surround sound system for audio. Does this simply hook in through the component input of the TV? What is BNC and does it affect this?

Anything else I, as a non tech savvy person, should know?

Again, sorry for the simplicity of these questions, but any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jake-
The 8UK comes standard with 2 terminal boards -
http://www.bruzzi.ws/Attachs/vin-3slots8UK.jpg

You can hook up your comcast unit via component(best choice), S-video (2nd choice), or composite RCA style (3rd choice) with the 2 boards provided.

The 8UK does not come with speakers so you will need to run an audio connection from the comcast to your receiver for audio. If your receiver accepts digital audio that would be the best way.

The BNC refers to the type of locking connector that the boards use. You can get BNC adapters for regular component or composite cables that attach, or buy the cables with the BNC on 1 end already

HTH

citman

03-16-06, 10:43 AM

A power conditioner is also a great idea.

I agree and have a Belkin power condition awaiting the install-
http://catalog.belkin.com/PureAV_detail.process?Product_Id=178938

what's nice about these is you can also run the phone and cable/satelite signals through them as well as all power....pretty slick :cool:
(although the have only 1 in/out for satellite and I need 2 for my tivo. I read on the package that the sat coax and cable coax are different frequencies. I am going to run line 2 into the cable in/out anyway....hope it will perform same?)

Damn DHL never showed yesterday and say there was weather delay...coming today :mad:

Jake1221

03-16-06, 11:45 AM

jhowell

03-16-06, 11:47 AM

jamescam

03-16-06, 12:00 PM

Yamadr6

03-16-06, 12:30 PM

I agree and have a Belkin power condition awaiting the install-
http://catalog.belkin.com/PureAV_detail.process?Product_Id=178938

what's nice about these is you can also run the phone and cable/satelite signals through them as well as all power....pretty slick :cool:
(although the have only 1 in/out for satellite and I need 2 for my tivo. I read on the package that the sat coax and cable coax are different frequencies. I am going to run line 2 into the cable in/out anyway....hope it will perform same?)

Damn DHL never showed yesterday and say there was weather delay...coming today :mad:
Great choice, Belkin makes one of the best in the market. I have a Tripp Lite line conditioner that monitors incoming voltage and adjust it to provide connected equipment with a consistent 120V power. It also has RFI/EMI noise filtering. The only problem with the unit I have is that it is not a nice looking conditioner like the Belkin. I am thinking of changing it for the Belkin PF31L mostly because of looks. Just one thing I am not sure about. If the Belkin is capable of adjusting the voltage to maintain a true 120V at all times. From what I have seen, it does not.

I think it’s a great buy and I might consider that one in the near future. :D

citman

03-16-06, 12:36 PM

Citman, thanks very much for that, very helpful.

One final question on that. The home theater includes a DVD player - the manual for it says to connect the unit to the TV through component. But, as you say, the TV doesn't have speakers, so I will not get audio with this setup? If I hook the home theater into the cable box with component, will I get both audio and video?

Thanks a ton!

Jake- you are hooking up just 2 video sources correct?
Do this-
DVD player directly to 8UK (via component or S-video)
Cable box directly to 8UK (via component or S-video)
(up to you which way you hook them up...what will you watch more and want to have the best connection to? component RGB is better than S-video and S-video is better than composite from every thing I've read)

then from DVD player -digital audio out to receiver
from cable box - digital audio out to receiver

just use the receiver for audio only, no video. You will have to switch both the receiver to the proper audio channel and the tv to the proper video source (DVD or cable box) at the same time....simple.

citman

03-16-06, 01:04 PM

Thanks to all that have replied. Couple more specific questions:

Should I run my VCR, Gaming, Camcorder and DVD player through the RX-V1500 then connect that via component to the 8UK? If so, I can narrow down my 10' cable run through the wall to 1 HDMI and 1 Component. Should I include an additional HDMI / VGA / Svideo / RCA cables for future applications?

How do I apply a power conditioner / surge protector into a wall mounted monitor?

Please help if you can.

Jeff

I don't believe that your V1500 upscales the video signal at all so based on what I've read you should connect as much as possible directly to the set and not through the receiver. Let the set process the signal. I am also in the same boat as my receiver doesn't scale at all so I plan on running the STB via HDMI (most watched) an Oppo DVD via DVI and my receiver via S-video (I will hook the VCR and PS2 into the receiver) I want the best quality I can get for the STB and DVD since these are the things I will watch most. I plan on using all 3 slots on the 8UK.

the power conditioner is external to the display. Think power strip with allot of features :D The Belkin's are good (again, MO based on research) and they look cool as well. You can wall mount it wherever you want, plug everything into it (including cable/sat and phone) and it'll provide clean signals and surge protection.

they are here- http://catalog.belkin.com/PureAV.process?Section_Id=202494

citman

03-16-06, 01:14 PM

For the past 6 years or so my Mitsubishi HD1080 Diamond has served me well but the time has come to gain back some much needed space in my living room and go with a Plasma. I have been considering the 50PHD8UK but had a few questions:

1. I heard Panasonic will be coming out with a new model in June, is this confirmed?
2. The entire HDTV thing confuses me and I am not certain what it takes to get the experience. Currently I have Dish Network (wife would like to keep it that way) - Do I need a new box or dish to receive and decode the HD signal?
3. Does the HD box connect via a HDMI connection in which I will need the HDMI board?
4. What other components connect via HDMI? DVD Player?

I appreciate your time and patience in helping me figure this out. Thank you!

1.-not sure...I think I read something about it...you'll have to search
2.-I know that I needed a new 3lnb dish and a HD box for directTV...so I'd assume yes...but you can go to Dish network's web site to confirm
3.-you don't need a HDMI or DVI board....but they are both a better way to connect than the component board that comes with it
4.-it depends on the component. Some DVD players have HDMI outputs, some have DVI, some component, some multiple. Every DVD player is different. I found that the Oppo 971H was a good upconverting DVD player for the money IMO. I bought one to replace my 8 year old Sony unit until the HD DVD players come out and the format war settles.

HTH

lensterman

03-16-06, 01:25 PM

Jake- you are hooking up just 2 video sources correct?
Do this-
DVD player directly to 8UK (via component or S-video)
Cable box directly to 8UK (via component or S-video)
(up to you which way you hook them up...what will you watch more and want to have the best connection to? component RGB is better than S-video and S-video is better than composite from every thing I've read)

then from DVD player -digital audio out to receiver
from cable box - digital audio out to receiver

just use the receiver for audio only, no video. You will have to switch both the receiver to the proper audio channel and the tv to the proper video source (DVD or cable box) at the same time....simple.

Hey Citman

I just realized you guys just helped me solve my problem.

I have three inputs:
Cable box
VCR for tuner!
DVD

So if I use the cable box for one of the component inputs and the other component for the DVD (I will need to buy another component to RGB cable) and use my Onkyo as my audio receiver I will not need the built in amp!

Is this correct!
Now where can I get the component to RGB cable?

Anyone?

Thanks
Lenny

citman

03-16-06, 01:27 PM

Great choice, Belkin makes one of the best in the market. I have a Tripp Lite line conditioner that monitors incoming voltage and adjust it to provide connected equipment with a consistent 120V power. It also has RFI/EMI noise filtering. The only problem with the unit I have is that it is not a nice looking conditioner like the Belkin. I am thinking of changing it for the Belkin PF31L mostly because of looks. Just one thing I am not sure about. If the Belkin is capable of adjusting the voltage to maintain a true 120V at all times. From what I have seen, it does not.

I think it’s a great buy and I might consider that one in the near future. :D

you know that's a real good question...and nowhere on the Belkin site does it clarify this at all. So I'd have to guess it doesn't either. I heard about these when listening to the HTguys podcast and checked them out :D Maybe I'll email them and ask if they know. :D

OH- set is IN! My carpenter is installing wall mount and display as I type :D
D* comes tomorrow along with the Oppo 971. Hopefully my DVI blade will also be here tomorrow from UPS. Tonight I rewire the audio, test configure and play a few DVDs from the old player.

Besides turning down brightness and contrast to 50% and setting the sidebars to grey (instead of black) for SD ( I think in Just mode? I need to start reading the manual again on how to do this :D ) anything else I'm forgetting in the initial setup process?

Yam? Jsf? you guys got any reccomendations here? thanks

citman

03-16-06, 01:39 PM

Hey Citman

I just realized you guys just helped me solve my problem.

I have three inputs:
Cable box
VCR for tuner!
DVD

So if I use the cable box for one of the component inputs and the other component for the DVD (I will need to buy another component to RGB cable) and use my Onkyo as my audio receiver I will not need the built in amp!

Is this correct!
Now where can I get the component to RGB cable?

Anyone?

Thanks
Lenny

you lost me a little here, but....you have 3 video sources you want to hook up-
STB, DVD, and VCR (set comes with only 2 input boards, so if you wanted to hook up all 3 things directly to the set...you'll need to buy another board)

Componet IS RGB (red,green,blue....3 wires...one for each color)
Composite is 1 wire for video (yellow) and usually 2 audio (red/white) (or called RCA style jacks)

you can use your Onkyo for audio (run the audio outputs from all 3 things into it) and hook up 3 things directly into the 8UK with an additional board, yes. Where you get your cables and what kind you get is up to you. There are allot of brands and allot of quality levels to choose from in cables. Someone else could speak better on this than I can.

lensterman

03-16-06, 01:55 PM

you lost me a little here, but....you have 3 video sources you want to hook up-
STB, DVD, and VCR (set comes with only 2 input boards, so if you wanted to hook up all 3 things directly to the set...you'll need to buy another board)

Componet IS RGB (red,green,blue....3 wires...one for each color)
Composite is 1 wire for video (yellow) and usually 2 audio (red/white) (or called RCA style jacks)

you can use your Onkyo for audio (run the audio outputs from all 3 things into it) and hook up 3 things directly into the 8UK with an additional board, yes. Where you get your cables and what kind you get is up to you. There are allot of brands and allot of quality levels to choose from in cables. Someone else could speak better on this than I can.

I beleive the PC connection may also be used as a component input with a component to RGA cable as long as you set the PC port for this input?
Is this true? I read it somewhere?
I am looking at using:
Cable /High Def box to component
VCR to composite
DVD to PC port

Can anyone confirm this setup?
Yes the Onkyo can handle the audio.
By the way my set should be here in 2 hours!

Lenny

Yamadr6

03-16-06, 02:10 PM

you know that's a real good question...and nowhere on the Belkin site does it clarify this at all. So I'd have to guess it doesn't either. I heard about these when listening to the HTguys podcast and checked them out :D Maybe I'll email them and ask if they know. :D

OH- set is IN! My carpenter is installing wall mount and display as I type :D
D* comes tomorrow along with the Oppo 971. Hopefully my DVI blade will also be here tomorrow from UPS. Tonight I rewire the audio, test configure and play a few DVDs from the old player.

Besides turning down brightness and contrast to 50% and setting the sidebars to grey (instead of black) for SD ( I think in Just mode? I need to start reading the manual again on how to do this :D ) anything else I'm forgetting in the initial setup process?

Yam? Jsf? you guys got any reccomendations here? thanks
I am happy to hear that your set is finally in. It looks like you have it all cover.

I set my brightness to –17 on my TH-50PHD8UK for the first 100 hours. Some people claim –22 but personally I think this setting is just too dark to be able to enjoy the TV at all. As for the gray bars I stretched my SD signal using the option on my Dish box and kept the TH-50PHD8UK on full mode. Another setting is Auto but this might not work for all the SD signals. Try to stay away from any bars at all, Gray or black. Gray being the best of both evils.

Citman, I am wondering what was the brightness setting that jsf had on his unit during the first 100 hrs.

Another thing I am wondering is why did you buy a DVI blade instead of two HDMI Blades. If you needed DVI you could have bought a DVI to HDMI cable. HDMI would have made your system more future compatible.

One more thing, is your Oppo new or refurbished? Please post your opinion on this system. I am planning to buy one but they have been out of stock for a while. Might consider buying a refurbished one.

jsf2001

03-16-06, 02:20 PM

you know that's a real good question...and nowhere on the Belkin site does it clarify this at all. So I'd have to guess it doesn't either. I heard about these when listening to the HTguys podcast and checked them out :D Maybe I'll email them and ask if they know. :D

OH- set is IN! My carpenter is installing wall mount and display as I type :D
D* comes tomorrow along with the Oppo 971. Hopefully my DVI blade will also be here tomorrow from UPS. Tonight I rewire the audio, test configure and play a few DVDs from the old player.

Besides turning down brightness and contrast to 50% and setting the sidebars to grey (instead of black) for SD ( I think in Just mode? I need to start reading the manual again on how to do this :D ) anything else I'm forgetting in the initial setup process?

Yam? Jsf? you guys got any reccomendations here? thanks

You're in good shape, Citman. Do adjust the sidebars to grey as planned. Keep your viewing to full screen - aside from commercials which are unavoidable and of relatively short duration. As long as you avoid the side or top bars (except during commercials), you'll be fine. I don't think you need to worry about turning down the brightness and contrast to 50%. In fact, many of us haven't worried about this at all and have sufferred no ill effects. Just adjust to your personal preferences but avoid "torch" settings (i.e. do not use dynamic mode). You're going to love the panel and I'm excited for you.

citman

03-16-06, 02:26 PM

I am happy to hear that your set is finally in. It looks like you have it all cover.

I set my brightness to –17 on my TH-50PHD8UK for the first 100 hours. Some people claim –22 but personally I think this setting is just too dark to be able to enjoy the TV at all. As for the gray bars I stretched my SD signal using the option on my Dish box and kept the TH-50PHD8UK on full mode. Another setting is Auto but this might not work for all the SD signals. Try to stay away from any bars at all, Gray or black. Gray being the best of both evils.

Citman, I am wondering what was the brightness setting that jsf had on his unit during the first 100 hrs.

Another thing I am wondering is why did you buy a DVI blade instead of two HDMI Blades. If you needed DVI you could have bought a DVI to HDMI cable. HDMI would have made your system more future compatible.

One more thing, is your Oppo new or refurbished? Please post your opinion on this system. I am planning to buy one but they have been out of stock for a while. Might consider buying a refurbished one.

brightness to -17...check. What aspect ratio are you using? NORMAL mode is the only one that allows 4:3 sidebars, correct? you preferred FULL as opposed to ZOOM or JUST? I've read that most prefer JUST...but I guess I'll see won't I? :D

I bought the DVI as opposed to 2 HDMI becasue 1- the Oppo has DVI output only (yes I know I could've bought a converter cable) and DVI doesn't have to deal with the HDCP protocol crap like HDMI does. I've read allot of bad things too about HDMI and thought I would get both and experiment with the handshaking stuff.

My Oppo is new (they just started shipping again on new units this week) I paid for the 2-day FedEx to get it here tomorrow as I was impaitent ;)

Another good question for me will be what to set the HR10-250 and the Oppo outputs to via HDMI/DVI respectively? Do you set them to 720 and let the set upconvert slightly? or to 1080 and let the set downconvert? I wonder which is better? Someday I might just bite the bullet and buy a video processor unit like the VP30 that outputs everything at the sets native...but that's a $2k bullet right now :D

Jake1221

03-16-06, 02:48 PM

citman

03-16-06, 03:11 PM

One last question, Citman, promise (I do appreciate your help)

My DVD/receiver is one unit. So if I do S-video from the DVD to the TV as you suggest, can I still do audio from the cable box to the receiver without screwing it up? Meaning, from the one DVD/receiver unit, can I have video running to the TV and audio running in from the cable box?

And, how would I go about ordering a HDMI blade for the 8UK, and how much do they run?

As always, thanks.

Jake....what's the make and model of your DVD/receiver unit and the cable box? I'll take a look over the net and see what inputs/outputs are available. Like I said...unless you buy 2 HDMI or DVI boards (each board is around $145-$190 a piece) and want to use the stock boards then you should choose the best hookups available for your components. Does the DVD/receiver unit have HDMI or DVI out? component out? S-video out? What will you watch more of? the DVD or the cable box? what does the cable box have for outputs?

I need more info to help with an opinion

BruZZi

03-16-06, 03:17 PM

I beleive the PC connection may also be used as a component input with a component to RGA cable as long as you set the PC port for this input?
Is this true? I read it somewhere?
Yup. More info here:

http://www.bruzzi.ws/plasma-faq/showthread.php?t=26

I am looking at using:
Cable /High Def box to component
VCR to composite
DVD to PC port
Lenny
No Problem. :)

__________________________________
BruZZi's Panasonic Plasma FAQ — bruzzi.ws
Lots of info for all Plasmas in general.

Jake1221

03-16-06, 03:18 PM

jsf2001

03-16-06, 03:19 PM

brightness to -17...check. What aspect ratio are you using? NORMAL mode is the only one that allows 4:3 sidebars, correct? you preferred FULL as opposed to ZOOM or JUST? I've read that most prefer JUST...but I guess I'll see won't I? :D

I bought the DVI as opposed to 2 HDMI becasue 1- the Oppo has DVI output only (yes I know I could've bought a converter cable) and DVI doesn't have to deal with the HDCP protocol crap like HDMI does. I've read allot of bad things too about HDMI and thought I would get both and experiment with the handshaking stuff.

My Oppo is new (they just started shipping again on new units this week) I paid for the 2-day FedEx to get it here tomorrow as I was impaitent ;)

Another good question for me will be what to set the HR10-250 and the Oppo outputs to via HDMI/DVI respectively? Do you set them to 720 and let the set upconvert slightly? or to 1080 and let the set downconvert? I wonder which is better? Someday I might just bite the bullet and buy a video processor unit like the VP30 that outputs everything at the sets native...but that's a $2k bullet right now :D

Citman and Yamadr6: I vary the brightness level depending upon the signal source. For example, you'll likely notice that digital sources (HDMI and DVI) will appear brighter than component and, as a result, you may want/need to tone the brightness down a bit more when viewing material via HDMI and DVI. As for me, I "play" with it from time to time and find myself settling between +10 - +20, but I also like a brighter picture. I think that when I did the DVE/Avia calibration, the best setting I found had picture setting closer to +10, the brightness at 0 - +3 and the sharpness at 0 - +2, but I can't recall for sure right now and I'm not at home. (The variation noted above refers to the differences between the 2 HDMI input sources on my display.)

As for Full/Just/Zoom, it's a matter of personal tastes and preferences. I suggest that you experiment with various options and decide for yourself which one(s) you like best. Besides, that's part of the fun, isn't it?

Finally, I also have the HR10-250 for my DirecTV and honestly can't tell much difference between 720p and 1080i. They both look very good, although not as good as the PQ that I receive from my Comcast SA8300 via the "8" series HDMI blade. That's a signal source issue for the most part as DirecTV compresses the HD signal using an mpeg algorithm to save on bandwidth.

You guys are going to love your panels! HD is really going to spoil you. :) :)

jsf2001

03-16-06, 03:27 PM

And, how would I go about ordering a HDMI blade for the 8UK, and how much do they run?

As always, thanks.

Jake: The HDMI blades are available from various sources online. If you do a simple Google search for the part number, you'll find several online retailers that sell them from time to time. Unfortunately, given the number of Panny commercial units that have been sold, availability of the blade has been spotty from time to time. Plus, you should know that the "8" series blade is generally not available from a US source at this time. It can be found if you do a Google.ca search as there is at least 1 very reputable Canadian retailer that sells the blade.

Hope that this helps.

Enjoy your new panel!

citman

03-16-06, 04:01 PM

Citman - its a Panasonic HT930 home theater.
It lists the following:
Input Audio Inputs 3 (TV, VCR, AUX)
Output Composite Video Out
S-Video Out
Component Video Out

I will hook the cable box into the 8UK with component cable, as that will be the HD feed and the one I will watch the most.

I will hook the video from the home theater into the 8UK with S-video, as I don't watch many DVDs

My question then is audio out from the cable box into the home theater. Would it just be the standard red and white cables out of the cable box into the home theater?

yes, your SC-HT930 allows 3 analog audio inputs (RCA style jacks, red/white stereo) to be entered for audio on 3 switches labeled TV/VCR/AUX. choose one and hook the cable box's analog audio (red/white) outputs to it. Have the 8UK set to component (cable box) and your HT930 set to whatever you chose (TV/VCR/AUX)

So for you no problems-
cable box -via component-8UK (as planned)
analog audio out from cable box to HT930
HT930 -via S-video output-8UK (as planned)

good? :D
(a few months ago I was the one with all these questions....I spent some time learning/reading....now I get to give back....it's all good :) )

Yamadr6

03-16-06, 04:08 PM

Jake: The HDMI blades are available from various sources online. If you do a simple Google search for the part number, you'll find several online retailers that sell them from time to time. Unfortunately, given the number of Panny commercial units that have been sold, availability of the blade has been spotty from time to time. Plus, you should know that the "8" series blade is generally not available from a US source at this time. It can be found if you do a Google.ca search as there is at least 1 very reputable Canadian retailer that sells the blade.

Hope that this helps.

Enjoy your new panel!
I must agree with jsf, the 720p and the 1080i both look great but mine is set to 1080i. I feel that I get a slightly sharper image at 1080i out of my Dish box using a 7 series blade.

Citman, I will like to know how the Oppo will compare to the HD signal from your STB. :rolleyes:

Jake1221

03-16-06, 04:15 PM

citman

03-16-06, 04:35 PM

I must agree with jsf, the 720p and the 1080i both look great but mine is set to 1080i. I feel that I get a slightly sharper image at 1080i out of my Dish box using a 7 series blade.

Citman, I will like to know how the Oppo will compare to the HD signal from your STB. :rolleyes:

well...I am about to find out as I am off to home (at work now ;) ) and my wife has called to say the set is up on the wall!! :D

Although the HR10-250 and the Oppo don't arrive until tomorrow :(
Tonight I re-wire the audio end and re-configure. I think I might hook up the old dvd player and the SD STB just to see them NOW

tomorrow night and this weekend is a different story though :eek: :D

jsf2001

03-16-06, 04:42 PM

well...I am about to find out as I am off to home (at work now ;) ) and my wife has called to say the set is up on the wall!! :D

Although the HR10-250 and the Oppo don't arrive until tomorrow :(
Tonight I re-wire the audio end and re-configure. I think I might hook up the old dvd player and the SD STB just to see them NOW

tomorrow night and this weekend is a different story though :eek: :D

Oh are you in for a treat once you get the HD hooked up. :D
Congrats again.

citman

03-16-06, 04:47 PM

Citman,

Many, many thanks. You have put my mind at ease.

In you opinion, is this a decent set-up for me. I realize it's not the optimum (e.g. hmdi, digital audio), but will it provide adequate viewing, listening pleasure?

Again, thanks for all your help. I'm sure I'll be back with questions when I get this thing!

well...I assume the cable box you have, or are getting is a HD box? If so, does the cable box have a HDMI or DVI output? I have read (not experienced) that there is a slight difference in PQ with the HDMI/DVI vs component and a HUGE difference between HDMI/DVI and composite. For the $ of the display IF your cable box has a HDMI output....I'd buy the blade and use it for sure...but that's just me. Then you could use your component output from your receiver for your dvd player etc.

remember....even though the set you've chosen is primo....there's an old rule.....garbage in=garbage out.

As far as the audio goes....my ears aren't that good anyways and I'm more concerned with PQ over audio. BUT....IMHO....movies especially are allot better to me in DTS or 5.1, which you have. It's surpising to me that Panasonic didn't put digital audio inputs in that box. You will experience 5.1 when you play a dvd through it....but you won't get 5.1 from your cable box with analog RCA hookups...only stereo....which is a bummer....especially if your PPV movie is broadcast with 5.1 :(

You know what though.....Rome wasn't built in a day either. Get the set....hook up the HD cable and your exsisting HT box and enjoy it. I'm sure you'll like it just as I will enjoy mine. Then if the lack of digital audio really bothers you...upgrade your receiver. Hell....Blueray and HD DVDs are coming soon....and your plasma will take full advantage of them....so why bother with a DVD player now anyways? Only reason I did was becasue my old one wasn't even a good progressive scan unit.

OK....off to the house....I'll post later :cool:

Yamadr6

03-16-06, 05:13 PM

jsf2001

03-16-06, 06:07 PM

Jsf, do you use the screen saver setting on this system? I have been tinkering with these settings but I am not in full understanding of the advantage of having the screen saver on.
From what I could understand it will move a static image one pixel at a time to prevent burn in.

If you have a better understanding of this will you please fill me in on it. If not I will post about it soon, when I have a better understanding of the advantages, when and how to use it.

Congrats Citman you are going to love the system, specially with the HD signal.

I find my self watching nothing but HD channels. :D

Yes, I use the one that moves the static image one pixel at at time (can't recall what it is called in the menu). I guess my paranoia won that battle, although I can't notice anything on the screen when it is on. It's an important feature, apparently, if you watch stations that have permanent stock tickers on the bottom of the screen. So, if you're an CNBC watcher, you really should consider this. I use it because I watch ESPN and other sports programs a lot and I was concerned that some of their static scoreboards might create an issue. But, most networks are pretty savvy about this and move those items around on their screens from time to time or eliminate them periodically from their screen shots.

The good news is that I have yet to see IR, let alone burn-in.

I just finished watching some of the CBS telecast of the NCAA games and I still can't believe just how great the picture is. We're all so spoiled. :D

Yamadr6

03-16-06, 06:21 PM

Yes, I use the one that moves the static image one pixel at at time (can't recall what it is called in the menu). I guess my paranoia won that battle, although I can't notice anything on the screen when it is on. It's an important feature, apparently, if you watch stations that have permanent stock tickers on the bottom of the screen. So, if you're an CNBC watcher, you really should consider this. I use it because I watch ESPN and other sports programs a lot and I was concerned that some of their static scoreboards might create an issue. But, most networks are pretty savvy about this and move those items around on their screens from time to time or eliminate them periodically from their screen shots.

The good news is that I have yet to see IR, let alone burn-in.

I just finished watching some of the CBS telecast of the NCAA games and I still can't believe just how great the picture is. We're all so spoiled. :D

Jsf, thanks for the information. I also watch lots of sports and this is a great concern. I also have tried turning it on but have not notice a difference. There is also a negative option and with this as with the white bar scroll I am not sure what the difference is. :rolleyes:

Ok I will play with these settings tonight and will post my outcome tomorrow.

Thanks once again jsf :D

jsf2001

03-16-06, 06:29 PM

Jsf, thanks for the information. I also watch lots of sports and this is a great concern. I also have tried turning it on but have not notice a difference. There is also a negative option and with this as with the white bar scroll I am not sure what the difference is. :rolleyes:

Ok I will play with these settings tonight and will post my outcome tomorrow.

Thanks once again jsf :D

I've played with both the negative and white bar scrolls in the past. You won't need either of them, but they're fun to play with if you're completely bored. The negative simply makes dark areas light and light areas dark while the white bar scroll is precisely that, it's a white bar a few inches wide that scrolls across the screen from left to right. I suspect that the latter feature is important in some commercial settings where the user has the same picture on the screen for long periods of time. You can set the panel up to do it at a predetermined timed interval. I can't imagine a home user needing it unless the user plays lots of video games that have static images on the screen for long periods of time.

citman

03-16-06, 09:04 PM

well I just finished watching Saving private Ryan on the set WITH my new Oppo (yes, it came in today) via HDMI and.....

WOW!!! HOLY CRAP!!! YEEEEHHHAAAAAHHH!!! FREAKIN AMAZING!!!!!!

uh...yeah...it rocks BIGTIME :D :D :D

I set the Oppo at 1080 (the set will only display full mode in this setting I've found out) and I tried the other 4 settings as well (480/540/720), but I like the 1080 best so far. Haven't played with the Oppo's color or picture settings....I think it's better to do this with the settings on the 8UK? I don't know yet :rolleyes:

OK....now onto more serious matters.....I notice when you hit the picture button you can chose from 3 stock settings (and yes, I've stayed away from Dynamic...very bright) Then I notice that you can mess with the picture/brightness/sharpness settings for each picture and it stays. (unless you reset it) I've tried to keep the brightness to minus or 0 levels, as well as the picture to at least 0....but IMO it makes some scenes (not all) look very dark. Other bright sunlight scenes are real bright (even with the levels at 0 or below)

where is the happy medium with the 3 factory settings and also what color level are you guys using/happy with? Maybe it's just Pvt Ryan that is a real dark movie?

either way....I'm going to continue to monkey with the settings until I find what I like. The D* HD STB comes tomorrow morning and I can't wit to see if a HD signal will look even better than the Oppo (don't know how that's possible as the Oppo just plain rocks :D )

Is there a thread of what people are using for picture/color settings somewhere? OK...back to another dvd..... :D

OH- and Gladiator played well too...but had those black bars top and bottom...couldn't get them to go away...so I didn't watch it.....not till after 100 hours anyways.

SpineRep

03-16-06, 09:18 PM

Here ya go Citman....
Pic Settings from Bruzzi's Site (http://www.bruzzi.ws/plasma-faq/showthread.php?t=24)

There is also another thread here somewhere with a ton of pic settings!

Russ

BruZZi

03-16-06, 10:08 PM

Hey citman, I'm glad you like the PQ of the Oppo so far. I'm thinking about getting one for myself to compare against my current Panasonic RP-82. :)

Here ya go Citman....
Pic Settings from Bruzzi's Site (http://www.bruzzi.ws/plasma-faq/showthread.php?t=24)
There is also another thread here somewhere with a ton of pic settings!
Russ

I'll update the FAQ with more settings. :)

__________________________________
BruZZi's Panasonic Plasma FAQ — bruzzi.ws
Lots of info for all Plasmas in general.

jsf2001

03-16-06, 10:09 PM

citman

03-16-06, 11:24 PM

WTO

03-16-06, 11:33 PM

Folks, can you help me out as a brand new member? I may be hijacking your thread but I have been surfing around for a while and trying to get familiar with how to navigate this forum. Can you send me to the right place to get good advice. I just ordered the Panasonic TH-50PHD8UK from Costco which will not ship for about 3-4 weeks. I love their no stress return policy. I like the sleek design of this "industrial" model but would not mind having a few of the consumer features as I am new to a lot of this. A guy I know that has a couple of stores just recommended that I get the 50px60 instead. I could not stand the look of the older Panasonic model with the thick frame but that new PX60 looks decent to me and is no wider than the commercial model and it does have speakers for basic viewing situations.

Can you help me out here and send me to where I can get good advice on this forum?

Thanks!

jsf2001

03-16-06, 11:55 PM

holy crap....watched pieces of the matrix reloaded and then parts of LoTR return of the King extended edition.....just absolutely stunning.....I'm freaked

OK....one thing I've noticed is that both Gladiator and LotR come up with the black bars top and bottom if I set the oppo to anything above 480 via HDMI. In order to avoid the black bars I have to set the Oppo to 480, and then use zoom on the display to go to a full screen.....which to be honest....looks great to me anyways vs. the wide screen look with black bars. (even at 1080) I'll admit...the 1080 or 720 out does get a little bit sharper if you really look at it close...but from 9-10 ft back on the couch...it's hard to tell.

why is this? why do some dvds play full screen at 1080 out and some you have to downscale to 480 and then zoom? I'm trying not to view anything with bars as to avoid the IR thing.

Wow...I'd forgotten about the settings on BruZZi's site....I'll print them all out tomorrow at work and try them over the weekend for sure.

I also remember that with the HR10-250 coming tomorrow that I am going to experience the same black bar thing if I leave the STB set to output over 480, correct? if the set detects greater than 480 coming in then you lose the aspect ratio controls? confusing....any ideas?

D* coing in the AM....off to bed for now. thanks again for the inputs :D

Cary Citro
aka - citman

You're probably experiencing the difference between a movie filmed at 1.85 and one that is filmed at 2.35 (or something like that). The latter is wider and will result in black bars top and bottom. The former will scale to fit the 16:9 screen of the panel without bars. Check the box on the DVD. When you get the digital STB connected and you watch HDTV (say NCAA tournament games on a DIGITAL HD channel - which are not the same as the old network channels you were watching the networks on), you'll see a huge difference and you won't deal with black bars except with commercials, at least for the most part.

sticksy

03-17-06, 12:07 AM

Pagey

03-17-06, 12:29 AM

Folks, can you help me out as a brand new member? I may be hijacking your thread but I have been surfing around for a while and trying to get familiar with how to navigate this forum.

Can you help me out here and send me to where I can get good advice on this forum?

Thanks!

WTO,

This is my 1st post too.Finally.

First thing you do is spend weeks searching this Site, Type in the Model your interested in for example, that's what the "Search" Function is for. I lurked through Nov, Dec, Jan,Feb and finally made a decision. My TH-50PHD8UK got delivered TODAY after ordering on March 3rd from TV Authority. I bought a new receiver and my new speaker system will get installed by a Pro on Saturday. I'm all giddy.

YOU just need to Read, Read and Read more than you can imagine, then make a decision. I just assembled my TV Stand, which is about all I'm capable of. Everything else will have it's turn beginning on Saturday, as I lay out and assemble my Killer "Orb Audio" Speakers for True Surround Sound!

Go to Bruzzi's site also, (what a glorious place for information!!!) and print a lot of it out,stick it in a folder, read it everyday or so and when your TV comes, you'll be much less ancy about everything, believe me! :)

muttt

03-17-06, 12:29 AM

Sorry to be the weenie who bumps his own post... anyone have any thoughts on this? I'm expecting my 8UK (50") next Wednesday...

Hi all,
First of all, thanks for this great thread. Just awesome info in here.

And my 8UK is on the way. Can't wait for it to get here!

Anyway, I had a quick question about connecting my laptop through the VGA connection. I already have a wireless mouse and keyboard, and would love to be able to PIP (or POP) my desktop and TV signals from the comfort of my couch.

That said, I'm definitely mobile within my apartment with my laptop.

So my question is, does anyone have thoughts on how to create an "open" VGA connection, such that I can just plug in my laptop when I so choose? I'm not too knowledgable where electronics are concerned, and I have no idea whether a (carefully placed) dangling VGA cable from a $3,000 TV is very smart. (And wouldn't connecting it when both machines are on fry one of them?)

Thanks in advance for the advice...

Yamadr6

03-17-06, 06:35 AM

I've played with both the negative and white bar scrolls in the past. You won't need either of them, but they're fun to play with if you're completely bored. The negative simply makes dark areas light and light areas dark while the white bar scroll is precisely that, it's a white bar a few inches wide that scrolls across the screen from left to right. I suspect that the latter feature is important in some commercial settings where the user has the same picture on the screen for long periods of time. You can set the panel up to do it at a predetermined timed interval. I can't imagine a home user needing it unless the user plays lots of video games that have static images on the screen for long periods of time.
Jsf, I played with the screensaver last night and what it should be set at is wobble on, this will move the picture one pixel at a time. You will not be able to see the affect of this function but it will help you sleep better. As for the Negative or White Bar Scroll, I agree with you. Not really needed unless you are seeing some burnt in image and you want to try to clean it up. Computer users may also want to set this option on a timer.

Wait until you hook up the HD STB today. I think it will be even happier. :D

Citman, I was under the impression that the Oppo will fill the screen no matter what the movie was filmed at. One of the main reasons I was thinking of getting one.

Was there some macroblocking? :rolleyes:
Was the Oppo noisy when spinning the disk? :rolleyes:

WTO

03-17-06, 07:28 AM

WTO,
YOU just need to Read, Read and Read more than you can imagine, then make a decision. I just assembled my TV Stand, which is about all I'm capable of. Everything else will have it's turn beginning on Saturday, as I lay out and assemble my Killer "Orb Audio" Speakers for True Surround Sound!

Go to Bruzzi's site also, (what a glorious place for information!!!) and print a lot of it out,stick it in a folder, read it everyday or so and when your TV comes, you'll be much less ancy about everything, believe me! :)

Thanks so much Pagey,
what is the web address Bruzzi's site? Also, will I be able to to hook up my old (but good quality) stereo receiver. I have older but good Bose 901 speaker system. I have no need for actual surround sound because I can only hear out of one ear and it takes two. I have a Comcast high def DVR and need to hook that up and I need a wall mount that is as flush as possible with no need for tilt.

I still have a little time to figure out whether the industrial display is better for me than the new TH-50PX60U. I'm guessing the pictures are similar in quality? The 60U may be 9th generation and who knows if that means better? Those consumer features seem like less brain damage for a less knowledgeable guy like me. Is the flexibility of the 8 really worth it. I suppose for you it is because that is what you chose.
Thanks for your thoughts!

citman

03-17-06, 08:48 AM

Jsf, I played with the screensaver last night and what it should be set at is wobble on, this will move the picture one pixel at a time. You will not be able to see the affect of this function but it will help you sleep better. As for the Negative or White Bar Scroll, I agree with you. Not really needed unless you are seeing some burnt in image and you want to try to clean it up. Computer users may also want to set this option on a timer.

Wait until you hook up the HD STB today. I think it will be even happier. :D

Citman, I was under the impression that the Oppo will fill the screen no matter what the movie was filmed at. One of the main reasons I was thinking of getting one.

Was there some macroblocking? :rolleyes:
Was the Oppo noisy when spinning the disk? :rolleyes:

hmmm....well I haven't even read the manual on the oppo yet...but both Gladiator and LoTr had black bars when I set the oppo output to anything above 480. when set at 480 I could zoom and fill the screen. (you can output at 480/540/720/1080)

Is that considered macroblocking? (not sure what that is)
No, I didn't hear any noise from the oppo. I had the speakers turned up load too though. I'll listen to it without sound and advise.

jsf2001

03-17-06, 09:07 AM

Has anyone had problems with the 7th generation blade and the 8uk? I got the FB7HM connected to a JVC 702b receiver and SA8300 STB and when I change to that input it says:

"DVI Alert: Your HDTV does not support HDCP. Please disconnect the HDMI connector and use the YPrPB connection to continue to watch TV."

Does this mean that I can't use HDMI at all or just cable TV? Is there a way around this or b/c of the HDCP block I'm totally screwed? Sheesh, this is frustrating... :mad:

That's a well known HDMI "handshake" problem that comes up between STB's and panels when one tries to use a receiver for switching. The problem lies with the STB and its software implementation of HDCP (anti-copyright pirating). The STB won't allow the signal to be repeated through the receiver. It insists on a direct connection to the panel. At present, there is no work-around for this although some STB manufacturers claim that they willl implement changes in the future and download them via the cable connection to the receiver. (Yeah, right.)

jsf2001

03-17-06, 09:09 AM

hmmm....well I haven't even read the manual on the oppo yet...but both Gladiator and LoTr had black bars when I set the oppo output to anything above 480. when set at 480 I could zoom and fill the screen. (you can output at 480/540/720/1080)

Is that considered macroblocking? (not sure what that is)
No, I didn't hear any noise from the oppo. I had the speakers turned up load too though. I'll listen to it without sound and advise.

No. That isn't macroblocking. Here's a link that will help you understand what macroblocking is:

http://www.michaeldvd.com.au/Articles/VideoArtefacts/VideoArtefactsMacroBlocking.html

jsf2001

03-17-06, 09:11 AM

Jsf, I played with the screensaver last night and what it should be set at is wobble on, this will move the picture one pixel at a time. You will not be able to see the affect of this function but it will help you sleep better. As for the Negative or White Bar Scroll, I agree with you. Not really needed unless you are seeing some burnt in image and you want to try to clean it up. Computer users may also want to set this option on a timer.

Wait until you hook up the HD STB today. I think it will be even happier. :D

Citman, I was under the impression that the Oppo will fill the screen no matter what the movie was filmed at. One of the main reasons I was thinking of getting one.

Was there some macroblocking? :rolleyes:
Was the Oppo noisy when spinning the disk? :rolleyes:

Thanks, Yamadr6....my panel is set to "wobble" as well. I haven't noticed any difference in everyday use either.

BruZZi

03-17-06, 12:20 PM

Sorry to be the weenie who bumps his own post... anyone have any thoughts on this? I'm expecting my 8UK (50") next Wednesday...

There's an optional Wireless Board for Panasonic Commercial Plasmas:

http://catalog2.panasonic.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ModelDetail?storeId=11201&catalogId=13051&itemId=86543&modelNo=TY-FB7WPU&surfModel=TY-FB7WPU

A bit expensive though.

__________________________________
BruZZi's Panasonic Plasma FAQ — bruzzi.ws
Lots of info for all Plasmas in general.

BruZZi

03-17-06, 12:22 PM

Thanks so much Pagey,
what is the web address Bruzzi's site?

Click on my signature. :)

__________________________________
BruZZi's Panasonic Plasma FAQ — bruzzi.ws
Lots of info for all Plasmas in general.

TechoFobe

03-17-06, 12:25 PM

I have the HDMI plus the DVI blades with either the component or S-Video blades installed in my monitor. The HDMI and DVI sources are connected directly to the monitor. The S-Video sources are presently being routed through my Denon 4306 A/V receiver; with all five different audio signals being input into my Denon receiver.

The problem that I am having is that whenever I select one of the S-Video sources then I can no longer access the audio from my HD receiver. This negatively impacts the PIP function. I can watch and listen to one of the S-video sources in one PIP box, but then I do not have any audio available from the HDMI source. (Not good.) :(

If instead of switching the S-Video sources using the Denon A/V receiver --- couldn't I just use a separate video switch and run the video signals from the three S-Video sources, through a video switch and then directly into the monitor?

I would then be able to have my HD receiver in one PIP box AND one of the S-Video sources in the other PIP box... and also be able to select whichever audio source (either the audio from the HD receiver or the audio from one of the S-Video devices).

I'm not sure which video switch should I buy to do this? There are switches that can handle S-Video signals OR component signals, but not both (as far as I know).

MY MAIN QUESTION: Does anyone know if it is possible to adapt S-Video connections into (or through) a component connection? Maybe a simple adapter that goes from S-Video into component? I've looked at the Key Digital switch (model Flash4) but I'm unsure if it is really what I need...

Key Digital link: http://www.keydigital.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=300&itemno=KDSW4X1&productname=

The reason that I'm asking is that I think that a video switch with component connections would be preferable as far as being able to use (upgraded) component equipment in the future... And maybe even be able to switch the VGA video signal from a computer.

Also, out of curiosity, what are the BNC connectors used for on the TY-42TM6B (S-Video) blade?

Thanks! :D

citman

03-17-06, 01:03 PM

well D* screwed me and they cancelled the installation today (tech called in sick I guess) It's back on for tomorrow AM, but I busted a half day of work for it :mad:

they gave me $20 cancellation fee credit and $10/month off for 6 months on my programming. wohoo! :mad:

You guys were right about the aspect ratios of the films. Gladiator is 2.4 something and Star Wars is 1.5 something. It seems that anything shot over 2.0 you have to scale the oppo down to 480 to get a full screen in zoom mode :mad:

why is that? anybody? bueller? :)

kayizm

03-17-06, 05:04 PM

renlopez

03-17-06, 05:11 PM

muttt

03-17-06, 07:13 PM

Thanks, Bruzzi. My hope was to work around that by plugging the laptop in directly and just going wireless w/ my keyboard and mouse.

(That FAQ is amazing, btw.)

jmcoy

03-17-06, 10:01 PM

thecoolshogun

03-17-06, 11:39 PM

OK got my price quote for up here in canada and it is the same as tvauthority after conversion, etc.

I am 99% sure i am going with the panasonic 8uk tv but i have seen the samsung HPR5072. Just wondering if there are any reasons to go with the panny panel vs the samsung.

TechoFobe

03-18-06, 01:03 AM

I'm not sure I'm following you and probably can't be of any help. But your question implies that the 50PHD8UK can have 2 PIP's at the same time. So if you had three sources (1 HDMI, 1 component, 1 S-video), you could have the main picture on one source, then two PIP's with the other 2 sources? I thought this plasma only supported one PIP. I'd be very interested to know about this...
Sorry if my post was misleading... The monitor can display the main picture in one box and one other signal in another (PIP) box.

What I was trying to explain was that because I have all of my audio being routed through my A/V receiver, but have the video from the HD receiver and DVD directly input into the monitor --- when I select (using my A/V receiver) one of the non-HD sources for a PIP box --- then the HD VIDEO signal has no audio available because the A/V receiver is a;ready outputting the S-video sources audio. The A/V receiver can obviously only output one source's audio signal at a time.

I would like to be able to have the HD signal in one PIP box and a S-video signal fed into the other PIP box AND also be able to select audio from either one source or the other...

I think (due to cost restraints) that I will probably go with a S-video switch. Then, I will input one HDMI signal to the monitor; one DVI signal to the monitor; and one (out of the three different) S-video signals to the monitor. Thus I will be able to choose which two of these inputs to use for PIP. Is that about as clear as mud? :)

I'm still curious about what the BNC connectors are used for on the TY-42TM6B (S-Video) blade...

TechoFobe

03-18-06, 01:36 AM

Hello to everyone on this very informative board. My situation is this, I plan on purchasing the TH-50PHD8UK, I have a Denon 2910 for movies, Onyko DV-CP702 for music, HD Direct Tv's HR10-250 a Axiom 6.1 setup being driven by the Denon AVR-4306. My question is, will I need 2 HDMI blades for the best picture, 1 for the TH-50PHD8UK to HR10-250 connection? And another for the Denon 2910 dvd player to the TH-50PHD8UK as well. Please help me on the wiring that i must purchase and an idea of the best connections. Thanks
kayzim,

I originally input the signal from my DirecTv H-20 (the new Mpeg4 HD) receiver into my Denon 4306. Unfortunately, there is some sort of weird problem when doing that. The H-20 keeps re-booting as soon as I try to change the channel or resolution or even access the menu...

If I was a betting man, I would wager that your HR10-250 receiver wouldn't have this problem, but I don't know for sure...

Like you, I also have the Denon DVD-2910 and when using the AVR-4306 to switch that signal, there was no problem at all. I suspect that the re-booting issue with the H-20 is caused by the H-20, but who knows? In any case, I have heard several others on this forum suggest that the best way to connect to any monitor via HDMI is directly.

By connecting directly the H-20 now works fine, and the picture quality is wonderful. Likewise, for no special reason, I decided to run the DVD directly into the monitor as well, and it also looks great. I bought one HDMI blade and one DVI blade, so the DVD's output is via a DVI cable. Works fine for me...

If you input the H10-250 and DVD-2910 into the Denon AVR-4306 you will need two (2) HDMI cables. You will need one (1) HDMI blade for your TH-50PHD8UK monitor (Slot 1). Then, you will need one (1) HDMI cable to output the signal from the Denon 4306 into the monitor. You'll also need to input the audio from the H10-250 and the DVD-2910 into the 4306, preferably with optical or coaxial digital cables.

On the other hand, if you decide to connect directly, you will need to install two HDMI blades (or one HDMI blade and one DVI blade) in the monitor. Connecting directly, you will then need two cables to run the video from the 4306 to the monitor.

Now that I have thoroughly confused the issue, feel free to PM me if you have any other questions.

tvromero

03-18-06, 07:07 PM

What I was trying to explain was that because I have all of my audio being routed through my A/V receiver, but have the video from the HD receiver and DVD directly input into the monitor --- when I select (using my A/V receiver) one of the non-HD sources for a PIP box --- then the HD VIDEO signal has no audio available because the A/V receiver is a;ready outputting the S-video sources audio. The A/V receiver can obviously only output one source's audio signal at a time.

I would like to be able to have the HD signal in one PIP box and a S-video signal fed into the other PIP box AND also be able to select audio from either one source or the other...

I have the Denon 3805 and there is a button on the AV Receiver that lets you select the video source so you could use that function if it exists on your receiver to select the S-video picture but the HD audio. It will work but on the 3805 this cannot be done from the remote (seems this remote can do everything, I guess not) so it seems kinda useless.

TechoFobe

03-19-06, 09:22 AM

I think that what I am trying to do is impossible, kind of.

I need to send multiiple video signals to the TH-50PHD8UK so that I can use PIP. If I connect various inputs into my Denon receiver, I can output only one of them at a time. I don't think it's reasonable of me to expect any A/V receiver to send one source to one output and a different source to a second output... Duh? I don't know what I was thinking. :o

I think that what I will do is send one source to Input 1 in the 8UK (from my Denon A/v) and a different source to Input 2 or 3 (from a switch) and then choose which of these to display with PIP. Simple, but it baffled me for quite awhile. :)

What I am thinking of doing is to outputting signals from each of my video sources/receivers into the Denon AVR-4306 and then select whichever one of these to output to the monitor's Input 1. Then, I could output signals from each of my video sources/receivers additional jacks into a video switch and output one of these signals into Input 2 of the Panny.

Then I can select one of the monitor's inputs (or the PC input) to display on the monitor in either one or the other PIP box.

My stupefaction comes in trying to figure out how to get the audio from the source coming from the switch to be output when I want to listen to it. I guess that one soulution is to send those audio signals to a different amp and a second set of speakers... which I already have for listening to CD music. But, it seems like a rather "awkward" way to accomplish this? Or, maybe not?

As Sherlock would say: "Elementary my dear Watson."

Sorry for the rambling... :D

cpcat

03-19-06, 09:56 AM

My stupefaction comes in trying to figure out how to get the audio from the source coming from the switch to be output when I want to listen to it. I guess that one soulution is to send those audio signals to a different amp and a second set of speakers... which I already have for listening to CD music. But, it seems like a rather "awkward" way to accomplish this? Or, maybe not?

As Sherlock would say: "Elementary my dear Watson."

Sorry for the rambling... :D

You can still just switch all the audio through the receiver. Video/Audio can be easily switched separately with pretty much any connection other than HDMI. Even with HDMI, most sources will provide an option for simultaneous separate digital/analog output for audio.

TechoFobe

03-19-06, 10:36 AM

You can still just switch all the audio through the receiver. Video/Audio can be easily switched separately with pretty much any connection other than HDMI. Even with HDMI, most sources will provide an option for simultaneous separate digital/analog output for audio.
CPCAT,

Yes, I currently switch all of the audio through my Denon AVR-4306 receiver... But, nothing is easy when using this receiver! Not easy for me anyway, that's for sure. Everytime I try to read the manual I get more confused than I was to begin with... That could well be because I am inadequate to the task --- or maybe because the Denon manual leaves a lot to be desired? I like to believe it is the second.

I can assign digital audio to different video sources but as far as I know, I cannot assign a digital audio to more than one video source AND even if I could Shirley it wouldn't be easy (or even possible?) to switch the audio inputs back and forth. I apologize for calling you Shirley. :)

I would not be the least bit surprised to find out that the audio output from my 4306 is easily switched... Maybe someone can explain how it can be done so that even I can understand it? I used to think (before getting the Denon receiver) that I was far more technically proficient than the average person. I have come to doubt myself now... That's really quite sad. Maybe it's Mad Cow?

I have to say that the Panasonic TH-50PHD8UK plasma screen monitor is a real delight to setup and use. I don't REALLY understand all about the different resolutions and interlaced/progressive scans yet, but this monitor is fantastic.

If I had it to do over again, I would NEVER have gotten the Denon AVR-4306 receiver, but instead have bought a HDMI switch and just used my old A/V receiver. Live & learn?

Anyhows --- if someone can advise me how to "easily" switch various audio inputs with the Denon, I would be very greatful.

cpcat

03-19-06, 12:31 PM

TechoFobe

03-19-06, 02:10 PM

I think you're long on clever humor but maybe a little short on A/V savvy. :)

Just plug the various audio cables (analog RCA or digital coax, toslink) from your sources to the named inputs on the back of the Denon. Name the digital inputs as necessary. Run the video (HDMI, DVI, Component, S-Video) either straight to the display or through whatever aftermarket switch you decide on. You then have separate video/audio switching. Press "Video 1" or whatever on the Denon and that switches your audio, then switch the video correspondingly through the other device/TV to match what you hear to what you are watching.

Especially with component video, it's better to run straight to the display anyway as the switching device may have restricted bandwidth.
You are definitely right about my being short on A/V savvy! ;)

At the risk of further exposing my A/V ignorance:

If I connect a HD satellite receiver (HDMI) to the A/V receiver and then connect a DVD (also HDMI) to my A/V receiver --- how would I use the 8UK's PIP feature?

My real "problem" is that I presently have five devices to output into my monitor and will likely add a HD-PVR in the near future? If I input all of these into an A/V receiver I can then choose which signal to display on my 8UK monitor. But, in order to use PIP I would need to split all of the signals to a different A/V receiver and output that into one of the other slots on the 8UK, right?

If, on the other hand, I only had three sources I could input each directly into the monitor and simply use the A/V receiver to select the audio that I want to listen to...

My headache is back. My lack of savvy is quite painful...

Maybe I should just forget about the PIP feature?

cpcat

03-19-06, 02:37 PM

You are definitely right about my being short on A/V savvy! ;)

At the risk of further exposing my A/V ignorance:

If I connect a HD satellite receiver (HDMI) to the A/V receiver and then connect a DVD (also HDMI) to my A/V receiver --- how would I use the 8UK's PIP feature?

My real "problem" is that I presently have five devices to output into my monitor and will likely add a HD-PVR in the near future? If I input all of these into an A/V receiver I can then choose which signal to display on my 8UK monitor. But, in order to use PIP I would need to split all of the signals to a different A/V receiver and output that into one of the other slots on the 8UK, right?

If, on the other hand, I only had three sources I could input each directly into the monitor and simply use the A/V receiver to select the audio that I want to listen to...

My headache is back. My lack of savvy is quite painful...

Maybe I should just forget about the PIP feature?

PIP will require separate inputs on the display. You could purchase two HDMI boards for the 8UK (or one DVI and one HDMI for that matter) if you want to do PIP for HDMI/DVI sources. Otherwise, you'll need to use component for one and HDMI/DVI for the other or some other combination. In any case, you'll only have as many PIP'able sources as there are slots on the 8UK. You could use two HDMI/DVI boards, switch everything through the A/V receiver except one and still have PIP for one with the other sources switched through the receiver. You have more options than I can list, really.

TechoFobe

03-19-06, 03:56 PM

PIP will require separate inputs on the display. You could purchase two HDMI boards for the 8UK (or one DVI and one HDMI for that matter) if you want to do PIP for HDMI/DVI sources. Otherwise, you'll need to use component for one and HDMI/DVI for the other or some other combination. In any case, you'll only have as many PIP'able sources as there are slots on the 8UK. You could use two HDMI/DVI boards, switch everything through the A/V receiver except one and still have PIP for one with the other sources switched through the receiver. You have more options than I can list, really.
Maybe too many options? The problem that I am suffering from is that I need to figure out how to connect my various sources into the following inputs on the 8UK.

Slot1: HDMI blade
Slot2: DVI blade
Slot3: Component blade
PC: VGA from my laptop

My Denon AVR-4306 a/v receiver is unable to switch the HDMI video from my HD receiver so I have the HD receiver connected directly into the 8UK using HDMI. I have the DVI connection from my DVD connected directly into the DVI blade. Lastly, I have the Denon receiver's video component outputs connected directly into the 8UK's component blade.

When I select the main PIP to display the HDMI signal and set the secondary PIP to display the component signal from the Denon, then the audio being output to my speakers is the component signal. To get the audio associated with the HDMI source I lose the component audio and video signal. So, I can only listen to the audio from the component if I want to have a PIP.

Do I have the option of watching a HD program in one PIP and watching a different program in the other PIP --- AND --- chose from either program's audio? It seems to me that the only way to be able to do that would be if I input the component signal directly from a single source instead of routing it thru the Denon receiver???

That means I lose the ability to watch one of my two DirecTiVos and my cable box. And, after I add a HD-DVR when it is finally available from DirecTv then I will have to swap cables between the DVD and my HD-DVR?

Not exactly an ideal situation? My options seem rather limited at this point...

Maybe I should spend the night at a Holiday Inn Express? :D A sense of humor seems to be mandatory when dealing with this stuff...

cpcat

03-19-06, 05:00 PM

TechoFobe

03-19-06, 08:53 PM

I see what you are saying now. You are limited some because you can't independentlyl switch video/audio through the A/V receiver. When you select the audio from either of the HDMI/DVI sources, the component input is dark. You should be able to PIP the component input with the HDMI/DVI inputs as long as you are willing to listen to the audio on the component input though. In additon, you should be able to PIP with both DVI/HDMI inputs and switch back/forth with their audio through the receiver. If you need more than that, you may need to consider a new A/V receiver with DVI/HDMI switching cabability.
cpcat,

By jove you've got it! :)

I wonder how most other 8UK owners connect their equipment so that their PIP functions well?

After a lot of deep thought, I have decided to try adding a switch capable of switching S-Video devices and their corresponding audio signals. I have three devices that have S-video outputs. So, I think that I will be able to connect thru the switch and output that into the S-Video blade on my 8UK. I will have to swap out my component blade in order to install the S-Video blade of course. No big deal? Then I will be able to PIP my HDMI signals (from my DirecTv HD receiver) and any one of the S-Video devices...

Using PIP with a DVD doesn't make a lot of sense to me. Whereas having two different NCAA games to view simultaneously is very entertaining! Being able to quickly swap the PIP's is a big plus too. But, I suppose that, honestly, I will only utilize the PIP function very rarely. Probably not enough to even merit all the questions I have bothered the forum with?

I do thank you for your continued help! :cool:

Yamadr6

03-20-06, 06:42 AM

citman, I hope you enjoyed a full weekend of HD.

I think I will be odering the Oppo soon. Have you had time to play with the settings on it? If you did please give me some feed back on it.

Were you able to make the DVD movies take up the whole screen?

I hooked up my HP Media Center laptop to the TH-50PHD8UK this weekend(VGA input). I must say the image displayed on the plasma was clear and impressive. It did take some tweaking of the video card to get it to display correctly on the plasmas. Even at the native resolution I am missing some of the image from the laptop. :mad: I was wondering if this was do to the overscan setting on my plasma?

As of right now I have not adjusted the overscan on my set but I am planning to do this soon. Will keep you guys posted on the results. From what I understand I could be missing between 10 to 15% of the true image. I am not sure if this affects the PC input.

Yamadr6

03-20-06, 06:48 AM

JSf, I watched my HBOHD Boxing fight this weekend more at ease knowing that my screen saver was set to wobble. Also ran the White Bar Scroll when I was done playing around with my PC. I did feel kind of bad having a static image there for the amount of time that it took for me to play around with the laptop settings and programs (1 hour). :(

lensterman

03-20-06, 09:18 AM

Wall mounted my set over the weekend!
Installation went great!
The picture is absolutely incredible how clear it is!
I was watching the NCAA, it was almost like being there! Well maybe!
I used the standard video connections which come with the set and used my ONkyo 503 as my audio switcher and the TV as the video switcher.
The PIP is execllent also!
I have HD cable on the component blade, VCR on the composite input ( I know its just to PIP sports thought) and DVD player on the PC input setup as component.

The added light around the set looks great also!

I am very happy with how everything worked out and I have the assurance of the Costco warranty as well!

Thanks again to all previous owners etc and knowledgeable posters for your input on this board.

Now if I could just condense my remotes!
Any suggestions anyone?

Lenny

citman

03-20-06, 09:44 AM

finally got the HR10-250 installed on Saturday....WOW!! :D you guys were right...HD is totally amazing. The DVD is real good...but the HD is even better. Watched some basketball and baseball....and those 2 things were most impressive to me...it was like actually being there....very cool. :cool:

OK...I have 1 issue to settle...I put the HDMI board in slot 1 for STB...works great.
Put the DVI blade in slot 2 for the Oppo...works great.
Put the S-video/Composite board in slot 3 for the receiver....won't work at all :mad:

The Radio shack people didn't have a composite video out to BNC...so they gave me an adapter...which fits on the RCA jack...but wasn't labled for video. I'm hoping this is the problem as I have routed the cable directly from the VCR as well as the receiver with no luck. I'm getting a different cable today.

2 questions though-
1) when you are setting up a new input (in my case input 3) you have to completely power down the set correct? connect....broadcast a signal....then turn on the set and it will pick up the new signal?
2) these BNC connectors...do they click or something when completely connected? I have never dealt with BNC before and I push it in hard...then turn it to lock, right? that's it? It appears to be connected correctly...but I am not able to get the set to recognize slot 3 yet :mad:

any thoughts? yam? bruzzi? jsf?
TIA

citman

03-20-06, 09:49 AM

citman, I hope you enjoyed a full weekend of HD.

I think I will be odering the Oppo soon. Have you had time to play with the settings on it? If you did please give me some feed back on it.

Were you able to make the DVD movies take up the whole screen?

The only thing I've done with the Oppo over the weekend was flip it between outputs (480/540/720/1080) and then adjust the set for picture. Yes....I am able to get the 2.xx movies to fit the whole screen. You set the Oppo to 480 then use the aspect on the pana to zoom...then it goes full screen. :cool: Still looks good too. I also took some CD-Rs with Mpeg2s on them and played it on the Oppo...is cool feature. Resolution on the MPG2s isn't great...but still looked OK. So far I really like the Oppo and I haven't seen this macroblocking thing or heard any noise from it.

citman

03-20-06, 09:53 AM

Now if I could just condense my remotes!
Any suggestions anyone?

Lenny

I agree...I currently have 4 remotes going :mad:
Tivo remote (you need this really)
Pana remote (I need most the aspect button from this one and input selection. picture setups you could leave I guess)
Receiver remote (power and volume only really)
Oppo remote (output signal and play/pause/ff etc)

what remote will do all this? what's everybody using?

jsf2001

03-20-06, 09:57 AM

Now if I could just condense my remotes!
Any suggestions anyone?

Lenny

Glad to hear that you're enjoying the panel. The remote issue is an easy one to address. You can get a great deal on the Logitech Harmony 880 these days (plus rebate, I beleive). It used to sell for $250 and a friend of mine told me that he recently purchased one for $120 after rebates somewhere online. Use Google to find an online retailer and confirm the retailer's reputatio with resellerratings.com.

The nice thing about the Harmony is that it is VERY easy to program via a usb cable and your computer. You simply log onto a web site, fill out a few questionnaires on equipment manufacturer, model, etc. and the web site will download everything you need onto the remote. While the buttons tend to be small, I have not yet met anyone who wasn't thrilled with the thing, especially spouses.

Hope this helps.

BruZZi

03-20-06, 09:58 AM

I have the Home Theater Master MX700.

Harmony (Logitech) is also very good.

__________________________________
BruZZi's Panasonic Plasma FAQ — bruzzi.ws
Lots of info for all Plasmas in general.

jsf2001

03-20-06, 11:06 AM

I agree...I currently have 4 remotes going :mad:
Tivo remote (you need this really)
Pana remote (I need most the aspect button from this one and input selection. picture setups you could leave I guess)
Receiver remote (power and volume only really)
Oppo remote (output signal and play/pause/ff etc)

what remote will do all this? what's everybody using?

Citman, see my suggestion to lenstersman on this subject. You'll be very happy with the Harmony remote. I wish I could help you with the other issues that you raised, but I don't know why the s-video connection won't work. Typically, the S-video connection is in slot 2, I believe, and you have to remove it to install a 2nd. hdmi or dvi blade. I guess that it is possible that it won't work in slot 3, but you may want to check with Panny tech support or with BruZZi on this. As for the BNC connectors, I use adaptors for my component input (which I'm not using at all at this point now that I have 2 HDMI blades). But, the adapters were simple to install----push and twist. I would think that all BNC connectors work that way. They usually have a locking element to them to let you know when they are on "all the way."

Hope that this helps somewhat.

Glad to hear that you're enjoying the new panel.

BruZZi

03-20-06, 11:15 AM

OK...I have 1 issue to settle...I put the HDMI board in slot 1 for STB...works great.
Put the DVI blade in slot 2 for the Oppo...works great.
Put the S-video/Composite board in slot 3 for the receiver....won't work at all :mad:
any thoughts? yam? bruzzi? jsf?
TIA
Sorry Citman, I didn't see your post asking about this issue...

Unfortunately the S-Video/Composite Board doesn't work in slot 3.

It can be installed in slot 1 or 2 ( Just like the DVI and HDMI Boards).

http://www.bruzzi.ws/plasma-faq/showthread.php?t=25

__________________________________
BruZZi's Panasonic Plasma FAQ — bruzzi.ws
Lots of info for all Plasmas in general.

TechoFobe

03-20-06, 11:23 AM

"The nice thing about the Harmony is that it is VERY easy to program via a usb cable and your computer. You simply log onto a web site, fill out a few questionnaires on equipment manufacturer, model, etc. and the web site will download everything you need onto the remote. While the buttons tend to be small, I have not yet met anyone who wasn't thrilled with the thing, especially spouses."
I just got my Harmony 880 and have setup the various remote controlled devices using the website. It did go extremely smoothly. Very friendly interface.

But, I need to find out how to "tweak" the Harmony. For example, when it is controlling either one of my DirecTiVo receivers --- I can't figure out which of the Harmony's buttons to push to get the slow motion to activate. Is there a button that already does this? If not, how would I add it?

The Harmony will (hopefully) replace 10 remotes for me:

1) Panasonic monitor
2) Sharp LCD television
3) A/V receiver
4) DirecTv H20 receiver
5) DirecTiVo receiver #1
6) DirecTiVo receiver #2
7) DVD
8) Cable box
9) Pre-amp
10) Video switch

When watching the NCAA tourney, it was hilarious to watch me madly juggling remotes. Occasionally I even managed to do what I wanted to do! :D

Some advice (instuctions) on how to tweak the 880 would be greatly appreciated and possibly save a marriage to boot! :)

jsf2001

03-20-06, 11:29 AM

I just got my Harmony 880 and have setup the various remote controlled devices using the website. It did go extremely smoothly. Very friendly interface.

But, I need to find out how to "tweak" the Harmony. For example, when it is controlling either one of my DirecTiVo receivers --- I can't figure out which of the Harmony's buttons to push to get the slow motion to activate. Is there a button that already does this? If not, how would I add it?

The Harmony will (hopefully) replace 10 remotes for me:

1) Panasonic monitor
2) Sharp LCD television
3) A/V receiver
4) DirecTv H20 receiver
5) DirecTiVo receiver #1
6) DirecTiVo receiver #2
7) DVD
8) Cable box
9) Pre-amp
10) Video switch

When watching the NCAA tourney, it was hilarious to watch me madly juggling remotes. Occasionally I even managed to do what I wanted to do! :D

Some advice (instuctions) on how to tweak the 880 would be greatly appreciated and possibly save a marriage to boot! :)

Within the Harmony remote menu structure, you can pick a specific device to control, which will give you access to numerous "pages" of additional commands that you can access using the remote's "right" and "left" arrow keys which are located just below the activity screen.

citman

03-20-06, 11:47 AM

Sorry Citman, I didn't see your post asking about this issue...

Unfortunately the S-Video/Composite Board doesn't work in slot 3.

It can be installed in slot 1 or 2 ( Just like the DVI and HDMI Boards).

ughhh....BIG PROBLEM then :mad:
what cards DO work in slot 3? I have a HDMI (STB) in 1, DVI (Oppo) in 2 already and both HDMI/DVI will ONLY work in slots 1/2 correct?

I thought the S-video/composite was the most BASIC connect board they have, no? I have the component board out also...will that one work in slot 3? Only problem is, if so...then how do I hook up a VCR or PS2 (no component outs)?

man...I thought the composite worked in slot 3... :mad: :mad: :mad:

EDIT- I don't understand why....but the more complex component board works, composite doesn't (from Bruzzi's site) thats FUBAR IMO. Can I take a composite and make it component some how? Off to look for more cables :mad:

jsf2001

03-20-06, 12:27 PM

ughhh....BIG PROBLEM then :mad:
what cards DO work in slot 3? I have a HDMI (STB) in 1, DVI (Oppo) in 2 already and both HDMI/DVI will ONLY work in slots 1/2 correct?

I thought the S-video/composite was the most BASIC connect board they have, no? I have the component board out also...will that one work in slot 3? Only problem is, if so...then how do I hook up a VCR or PS2 (no component outs)?

man...I thought the composite worked in slot 3... :mad: :mad: :mad:

EDIT- I don't understand why....but the more complex component board works, composite doesn't (from Bruzzi's site) thats FUBAR IMO. Can I take a composite and make it component some how? Off to look for more cables :mad:

Citman: You may want to consider getting an upconverting AV Receiver that will upconvert composite and s-video to component and run component to the panel. This may not be an optimal solution, but it will be a solution.

citman

03-20-06, 12:36 PM

Citman: You may want to consider getting an upconverting AV Receiver that will upconvert composite and s-video to component and run component to the panel. This may not be an optimal solution, but it will be a solution.

it's the expensive solution :mad: :D
well....for now....I might just get a new VCR that has component out and run the audio through the receiver. But...that will mean PS2 is a NO GO. I looked at many different upscaling receivers already and you'll spend $1500-$2000 easy. Not to mention if I'm going to get an additional piece like that I'd rather buy the video processor like the VP30 that will convert everything to the native resolution of 1366x768 (for full screen) I don't think I saw any receivers that will output the native. My audio sounds fine to me. The old Sony has DTS and 5.1 already and 2 digital audio inputs (which I'm using for the STB/DVD)

there is no way to convert composite to component huh? figures :(

jsf2001

03-20-06, 12:47 PM

it's the expensive solution :mad: :D
well....for now....I might just get a new VCR that has component out and run the audio through the receiver. But...that will mean PS2 is a NO GO. I looked at many different upscaling receivers already and you'll spend $1500-$2000 easy. Not to mention if I'm going to get an additional piece like that I'd rather buy the video processor like the VP30 that will convert everything to the native resolution of 1366x768 (for full screen) I don't think I saw any receivers that will output the native. My audio sounds fine to me. The old Sony has DTS and 5.1 already and 2 digital audio inputs (which I'm using for the STB/DVD)

there is no way to convert composite to component huh? figures :(

Nothing will output better than a good scaler. Having said this, you don't have to spend $1,500 to purchase a receiver that will upconvert to component. The price range that you quoted is for a receiver that will upconvert to HDMI. You can get a good deal today for one that will upconvert to component for well under $1,000, maybe even 1/2 that price. That isn't cheap, but it is much cheaper than you may have thought. A good scaler will likely cost you $1,500 or more, but offers a better solution.

citman

03-20-06, 01:02 PM

Nothing will output better than a good scaler. Having said this, you don't have to spend $1,500 to purchase a receiver that will upconvert to component. The price range that you quoted is for a receiver that will upconvert to HDMI. You can get a good deal today for one that will upconvert to component for well under $1,000, maybe even 1/2 that price. That isn't cheap, but it is much cheaper than you may have thought. A good scaler will likely cost you $1,500 or more, but offers a better solution.

I hear you, but to me that's wasted $ becasue all of those won't output the native at all. (you will have to keep switching the aspect ratios on your units like I'm doing now) If your going to spend $500-$1k to start....why not wait and save and then spend the $2k on a VP30 that will output everything to the native? with everything output at native you won't ever have to change an aspect ratio ever again, right? all your inputs will come out at full screen automatically and look correct...not stretched.

citman

03-20-06, 02:03 PM

actually there are a few cost effective options here that will allow more flexibility-
Sony STR-DE898 (also 100W, but outputs component) $260 at Amazon
(a slight step up from what I have now at a good price)

http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/eCS/Store/en/-/USD/SY_DisplayProductInformation-Start?ProductSKU=STRDE898%2fKIT&Dept=tvvideo&CategoryName=hav_HiFiComponents_Receivers_HiFiReceivers

pictures-
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-WrFOiVyw5Iz/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=196850&id=morephotos&pi=2&i=158STD898B&display=XL#Tab

or perhaps the Panasonic SA-XR70S $285
http://www2.panasonic.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/vModelDetail?storeId=15001&catalogId=13401&itemId=86137&catGroupId=25013&modelNo=SA-XR70S&surfModel=SA-XR70S&cacheProgram=11002&cachePartner=7000000000000005702

So, for less than $300 I can get a receiver with component output. It won't upscale to native or anything....but it would allow me to hookup via component on slot 3 (VCR and PS2) I'm leaning towards the Sony as it's very similiar to what I have now and I like my current one...and I have Sony speakers as well.

opinions? thanks

jsf2001

03-20-06, 03:06 PM

I hear you, but to me that's wasted $ becasue all of those won't output the native at all. (you will have to keep switching the aspect ratios on your units like I'm doing now) If your going to spend $500-$1k to start....why not wait and save and then spend the $2k on a VP30 that will output everything to the native? with everything output at native you won't ever have to change an aspect ratio ever again, right? all your inputs will come out at full screen automatically and look correct...not stretched.

Honestly, I don't know the answer to this question. But, logically, I don't think that your assumption may prove to be correct. If something is 4:3 in original aspect ratio and you use an outboard scaler to convert that image to 16:9, I would think that the original content would have to be altered in some fashion (stretch, zoom, etc.) to make it fill the screen without black bars. So, I would not assume that 4:3 content will be unstretched if you use an outboard scaler. The difference is that the scaler will output to the full screen and do so without relying on the panel's internal scaler to do the same.

citman

03-20-06, 03:12 PM

The difference is that the scaler will output to the full screen and do so without relying on the panel's internal scaler to do the same.

right...you essentially eliminate the internal scaler. As to how SD 4:3 would look after it's been scaled and outputed to 1366x768...who knows. Yes...I agree it would have to be stretched/zoomed/pulled somehow. But...with the VP30 everything comes out at native...which from what I understand means you never have to switch anything ever again...convienent.

any thought on those cheapo receivers?

jsf2001

03-20-06, 03:41 PM

right...you essentially eliminate the internal scaler. As to how SD 4:3 would look after it's been scaled and outputed to 1366x768...who knows. Yes...I agree it would have to be stretched/zoomed/pulled somehow. But...with the VP30 everything comes out at native...which from what I understand means you never have to switch anything ever again...convienent.

any thought on those cheapo receivers?

Please see the PM that I sent to you on this subject, Citman.

citman

03-20-06, 04:56 PM

Glad to hear that you're enjoying the panel. The remote issue is an easy one to address. You can get a great deal on the Logitech Harmony 880 these days (plus rebate, I beleive). It used to sell for $250 and a friend of mine told me that he recently purchased one for $120 after rebates somewhere online. Use Google to find an online retailer and confirm the retailer's reputatio with resellerratings.com.

The nice thing about the Harmony is that it is VERY easy to program via a usb cable and your computer. You simply log onto a web site, fill out a few questionnaires on equipment manufacturer, model, etc. and the web site will download everything you need onto the remote. While the buttons tend to be small, I have not yet met anyone who wasn't thrilled with the thing, especially spouses.

Hope this helps.

cool, thanks Jsf! I ordered the 880 today for $163 after receiving your PM. I wonder how long it will take to ge tthe rebate and why it wasn't advertised at Harmony Computers? anyways...I just hope the buttons won't be REAL small...we'll see thanks

TechoFobe

03-20-06, 05:17 PM

cool, thanks Jsf! I ordered the 880 today for $163 after receiving your PM. I wonder how long it will take to ge tthe rebate and why it wasn't advertised at Harmony Computers? anyways...I just hope the buttons won't be REAL small...we'll see thanks
citman,

I think that the buttons are REAL small...

But, only relatively speaking. My big fat, clumsy fingers find the buttons to be way too small but my wife's dainty fingers think they are okay. And, my 8-year-old and her little blonde-headed friend Goldilocks says that they are JUST RIGHT!

Sorry... :D

jsf2001

03-20-06, 05:28 PM

citman,

I think that the buttons are REAL small...

But, only relatively speaking. My big fat, clumsy fingers find the buttons to be way too small but my wife's dainty fingers think they are okay. And, my 8-year-old and her little blonde-headed friend Goldilocks says that they are JUST RIGHT!

Sorry... :D

I've never had a problem with them. I won't say that they are large, but they do the trick, especially as the remote has backlighting. Besides, it sure beats using 5 remotes at a time, the Harmony is very easy to program, and at $120 +/- after rebate, there isn't another remote control on the market that can touch it for price/performance right now.

emanresu

03-21-06, 12:40 AM

lensterman

03-21-06, 08:37 AM

cool, thanks Jsf! I ordered the 880 today for $163 after receiving your PM. I wonder how long it will take to ge tthe rebate and why it wasn't advertised at Harmony Computers? anyways...I just hope the buttons won't be REAL small...we'll see thanks

Can someone PM me about the 880 rebate. I am interested in purchasing the 880.
Also Citman can you let me know how your 880 works for you.

Thanks
Lenny

TechoFobe

03-21-06, 09:56 AM

I have two questions:

1) If I want to embed this TV in a wall, so that the front of the screen is flush with the surface of the wall, how much space do I need to leave around the TV in order to prevent overheating problems.

2) If I needed to run component cables 30 feet (up one wall, across a ceiling, and down another wall), will the component cables work at that distance? Would I experience any problems with this setup? Is HDMI better at longer distances?

Thanks for any help.
1) The TH-50PHD8UK's dimensions (WxHxD) are: 47.6” (1,210 mm) × 28.5” (724 mm) × 3.7” (95 mm) {exclusive of protruding portion}

According to the user's manual for the 8UK:

"Do not bring your hands, face or objects close to the ventilation holes of the Plasma Display. Top of the Plasma Display is usually very hot due to the high temperature of exhaust air being released through the ventilation holes. Burns or personal injuries can happen if any body parts are brought too close. Placing any object near the top of the display could also result in heat damages to the object as well as to the Display if its ventilation holes are blocked... ...Do not cover the ventilation holes. Doing so may cause the Plasma Display to overheat, which can cause fire or damage to the Plasma Display. If using the pedestal (optional accessory), leave a space of 3 15/16” (10 cm) or more at the top, left and right, 1 31/32” (5 cm) or more at the bottom, and 2 3/4” (7 cm) or more at the rear.

If using some other setting-up method, leave a space of 3 15/16” (10 cm) or more at the top, bottom, left and right, and 2 3/8” (6 cm) or more at the rear."

Before mounting, I would check with someone at Panasonic to see if there is any specific advice or instructions about mounting the monitor flush with the wall. Danger of causing a fire is something to take seriously... Damaging an expensive monitor wouldn't be much fun either? :eek:

2) Thirty feet? Extremely long HDMI cable runs are basically not a very good idea? The shorter the HDMI cable the better, was how I understood it. They do make 15 or 20 meter HDMI cables though. :confused: Also, a component cable costs about half of what a HDMI cable will set you back... I don't think that a 30' component connection would pose any problems...

BruZZi

03-21-06, 10:17 AM

Can someone PM me about the 880 rebate. I am interested in purchasing the 880.
Also Citman can you let me know how your 880 works for you.

Thanks
Lenny
Check your PM. :)

__________________________________
BruZZi's Panasonic Plasma FAQ — bruzzi.ws
Lots of info for all Plasmas in general.

citman

03-21-06, 11:45 AM

Can someone PM me about the 880 rebate. I am interested in purchasing the 880.
Also Citman can you let me know how your 880 works for you.

Thanks
Lenny

ordered it late yesterday...should ship today and I'll have it Thursday or Friday. Will advise...price is great though ($113 after rebate)...good deal IMO..thanks JsF for the tip ;)

citman

03-21-06, 11:48 AM

citman,

I think that the buttons are REAL small...

But, only relatively speaking. My big fat, clumsy fingers find the buttons to be way too small but my wife's dainty fingers think they are okay. And, my 8-year-old and her little blonde-headed friend Goldilocks says that they are JUST RIGHT!

Sorry... :D

LOL :D well...I'm 6'3" and 240...but amazingly my hands/feet aren't overly large so maybe I won't have a problem? :rolleyes: It's more for my w.i.f.e. and 8 year old son anyways. 4-5 remotes is too many to deal with for them for sure. ;)

jsf2001

03-21-06, 01:09 PM

ordered it late yesterday...should ship today and I'll have it Thursday or Friday. Will advise...price is great though ($113 after rebate)...good deal IMO..thanks JsF for the tip ;)

My pleasure.

citman

03-21-06, 01:40 PM

picked out a new receiver today that can do component on the cheap (went with a Sony STRDE898 for $260)

new question- WHERE do you find RCA/BNC component cables? or is everybody using adapters? I've found lots of single lines, RCA/RCA, BNC/BNC, but no RCA/BNC 3 wire (found 5). Does anyone make these ?

TIA

BruZZi

03-21-06, 01:55 PM

I use BNC/RCA adapters but you can custom order BNC/RCA component cables from Ramelectronics.net

__________________________________
BruZZi's Panasonic Plasma FAQ — bruzzi.ws
Lots of info for all Plasmas in general.

TechoFobe

03-21-06, 02:12 PM

new question- WHERE do you find RCA/BNC component cables? or is everybody using adapters? I've found lots of single lines, RCA/RCA, BNC/BNC, but no RCA/BNC 3 wire (found 5). Does anyone make these ? TIA
citman,

I now buy most of my cables from http://www.monoprice.com (a forum sponsor). Hi-Quality products AND low prices... I should become a spokesman for them. :)

They have BNC to RCA adapters for sale at 3 for $3.90 and many component cables to choose from too. I've been very satisfied when dealing with them.

I bet that someone makes a cable with RCA plugs on one end and BNC connectors on the other, but I don't know who, nor would I pay a lot extra to get them as compared to using adapters. PQ might suffer when using adapters as compared to a custom cable but I doubt it would be significant. I just recently bought component cables and stopped using regular RCA audio/video cables. Not sure I can tell a difference in PQ, but I sleep much better now knowing the cables ends are red, blue and green instead of yellow red and white.

Have to admit that I didn't plan ahead and bought my adapters locally at a Radio Shack... Moral of the story? Plan ahead. :D

citman

03-21-06, 02:40 PM

I use BNC/RCA adapters but you can custom order BNC/RCA component cables from Ramelectronics.net

ah! they DO make one already assembled and I already know these people through work (I sell semiconductors) cool! I'll get one...thanks AGAIN Bruzzi!
(note- almost all of the adapters I found were silver not gold and this cable uses no adapters and gold connecters)

khoi911

03-21-06, 02:55 PM

citman,
I bet that someone makes a cable with RCA plugs on one end and BNC connectors on the other, but I don't know who, nor would I pay a lot extra to get them as compared to using adapters.

Impact Acoustics sells some. I can post the URL because this list won't let me

Pagey

03-21-06, 03:27 PM

I bought my Gold BNC adapters at Radio Shack.

TechoFobe

03-21-06, 03:37 PM

Has any definitive research been done on different cables and/or connectors?

Monster seems to be the highest priced and boasts that their cables are the best... But, do you get what you pay for?

Also, how much difference does a gold-plated connector make as compared to a silver-plated connector? I've personally never noticed a silver connector that got corroded, but then again, I do opt for a gold connector if I have a choice. Am I being influenced by hype?

I wonder how much better (in real life) a $250 cable is compared to a $100 cable compared to a $10 cable...

I believe there are actually tangible differences between say Mercedes vs. Cadillac vs. Hyundai. Does the same apply to cables?

I'll bet that I would "feel" much better with a $250 cable but would it actually look or perform better in any way that I could tell? I would feel pretty silly if I paid 10 or 20 times more for basically the same cable though.

If there are tremendous differences but I can't appreciate those differences --- does it really matter? I have recently spent thousands on A/V equipment. Should I feel guilty about buying "cheap" cables? ;)

chadwik

03-21-06, 03:55 PM

I've got a question about PC connection. I have an Dell XGS so I've got a second monitor hookup which is DVI. If I buy a DVI into VGA cable I'm going to get an analog only right? It would be better to buy the DVI into HDCP (TY42TM6D) board and I would get the highest picture quality/capabilities?
I'm assuming thats why that board is there... but what limitations would I have if I just got the DVI into VGA cable?
LOL I guess what I'm saying is why would someone buy the TY42TM6D board?

citman

03-21-06, 04:57 PM

Has any definitive research been done on different cables and/or connectors?

I haven't seen any published research on this, but IMO all cables aren't created equally. There are allot of things to consider with cables-
conductivity (silver cores & gold plating), RFI and EMI interference (O2 free copper, twist style cableing, different shielding), resisitance, signal transfer (signal loss), and bandwidth to name a few. I'm sure that the type of material used in combination with design and manufacturing process can yield performance results. How much difference...I can't exactly say...BUT, for me...I always try and use gold plated connectors and stay away from adapters whenever possible. In my business (semiconductors) material is paramount in component design....and they always use allot of gold becasue of it's superior conductivity.

I looked at a few different sets of component cables and the price was anywhere from $20-$35 for the basic ones with the adapters. I opted for the $43 gold plated non adapter type because when it comes to spending $10-$20 more to me it's a no brainer. Now, would I ever spend $100 or more on a cable? Hell no as my HT components don't merit or could really take advantage of such high bandwidth expensive stuff. Would it perform better...probably (even with my components) but not that I could ever really see I think.

Now...if I ever hit the lotto and set up a commercial grade HT setup...yeah :D

jhowell

03-21-06, 05:40 PM

As mentioned before, I'm trying to prepare my home for the Panny wall mounted. My biggest concern is to not have the desired cable routed through the wall conduit to my TV a few years down the road. Does anyone know what video connection the HD DVD units will be? If they are HDMI, should I route an extra HDMI cable for the future? I'm already routing one now for the HR10-250. Here is my list to route:

HDMI to HDMI - 1 or 2?
VGA to VGA (or VGA to composite?)
Composite to Composite (or Composite to BNC?)

Component to Component (3 each)
CoAx (for future monitor that may have tuner?)
Cat5e?
DVI-D?

Any help would be appreciated. It should be obvoius that I won't be tearing out the wall again to run cable.

Thanks,
Jeff

Yamadr6

03-21-06, 05:42 PM

Citman, I have been away for a few days but I was just reading some of the posts and I see you have gotten some help on these issues already. I am an automation engineer by trade and one of the companies that I buy supplies from in MCMinone.com I find their prices to be reasonable and are fast to deliver. Anyhow here is the link to the cables I got from them.

http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=MCMProducts&product%5Fid=24%2D8902

drivie

03-21-06, 05:50 PM

Blue Jeans Cable is a forum sponsor and will build cables to order. I ordered my component (RCA/BNC) cables from them and they are really nice. Decent prices and fast shipping on good quality product.

http://www.bluejeanscable.com/

Drivie

ameanz

03-21-06, 06:11 PM

Hello Everyone...

For me, this is a large investment, so I'm trying to make sure I do this right the first time, so I won't be unhappy with what I get. I have a few questions, I was hoping some of you Pioneer Owners can assist me please. I want to thank you in advance for any assistance and recommendations provided. First of all, please note that I'm BRAND NEW to this, so I apologize if any of my questions may sound a bit noob! I've also placed a couple pictures of what we are shooting for to go along with these questions..

1) Concealed Wiring - Luckily, I'm currently in the process of building a home, and I'm about a week away from having to decide on wiring of the house so the construction builder can plan things out. Can someone tell me how many wires actually go to the TV? I'm planning on mouting the Plasma TV on the wall. We are customizing some tubing to run wires through the wall to the embedded shelving we have in the wall about 8 ft away from the TV. I'm aware I'll probably need longer wires for the HDMI cable from the receiver to the TV, if I'm correct. I'm just needing to know how many wires I will need from the Receiver box that comes with the Pioner to connect to the Plasma TV, so I know how big of a tubing I will need to place inside the wall to keep everything concealed. Any suggestions on minimum diameter of what the Tubing should be?

2) TV Power - This kind of goes with question #1. Does Plasma TV need an electrical outlet to plug into for power, or does it draw its power from the reciever by HDMI cable? There will be an electrical outlet placed near the area where the TV will be placed on the wall to conceal it if this is something I need to have.

3) Location - Have any of you placed the Plasma TV over a "Ventless Gas Fireplace"? I'm wanting to wall mount my Plasma above the Fireplace, and I'm purchasing a blower for the fireplace to blow heat toward the center of living room. The fireplace should be far enough away from TV to avoid any heat coming from it. Just wondered if any of you had any input on this.

4) Wall Mount Setup - Can anyone recommend a reliable wallmount setup that is reasonable in price, and will provide a tilt option? I'm thinking I will need a tilt option since the TV will be positioned over 6 ft from the floor.

5) Sound - I have a Sony Theater Sytem. My question is, does this TV offer Optical Output for sound to plug into my Home Theater System for regular TV viewing? If I'm not mistaken, it already comes Digital Cable Read, and I would like to have the sound through the Home Theater setup.

6) DVD Viewing - I'm also thinking of purchasing a new DVD player for my Plasma TV. From the new DVD players out in the market that will up-convert the signal, any recommendations based on your experience or knowledge that I should keep in mind when buying one? I believe the new DVD players convert upto the 1080 if I'm not mistaken. Does the Pioneer handle this up-conversion well?

7) Last Minute Recommendations - Is there anything else that you would recommend me to keep in mind while setting up my living room for this Home Theater System? I have already determined monster cable wiring for my speakers so I won't have wires running across the floor to the rear speaker for my surround sound. The embedded shelving on the wall should provide the need area for my Components. The wall is being re-enforced to allow wall mounting of the Plasma TV. Anything else I might be over looking?

Once again, I really appreciate any assistance with these questions. I'm very excited about getting all of this done, and I'm worried I might over look something and be to late to modify it. I want to take advantage of this opportunity while I'm still having the house built, to avoid modifying later.

CURRENT STAGE

http://www.ameanz.com/misc/construction.jpg

PICTURE OF HOW IT SHOULD LOOK - Don't pay attention to colors, I did that to make it easier to see.

http://www.ameanz.com/misc/planning.jpg

Thank you so much...
Michael

jhowell

03-21-06, 06:32 PM

cpcat

03-21-06, 06:37 PM

jhowell

03-21-06, 06:42 PM

Isn't the advantage of having conduit in the wall that you can run wires easier? In other words, as long as the conduit is of sufficient size to allow for connectors, just run what you need now and the rest later as you need them.

Cpcat, yes, you are correct. What size conduit should I run now to handle the sizes of the plugs (is HDMI the biggest plug) and allow them to be run through after all my other cables are installed?

cpcat

03-21-06, 06:52 PM

Cpcat, yes, you are correct. What size conduit should I run now to handle the sizes of the plugs (is HDMI the biggest plug) and allow them to be run through after all my other cables are installed?

I was going to guess 2 inches. It appears I would have been correct. :)

It looks like many folks run 2 of them. See here:http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=596580&highlight=conduit+size

jhowell

03-21-06, 07:30 PM

stretch1010

03-21-06, 07:57 PM

Can anyone answer this question for me. I have been watching my new 8UK for the past week and I seem to have "video noise" going on in the background. Some scenes you notice it more than others (gray/black scenes).

I hooked up my cable box with the coax cable directly from the street (with a male to male connector) and that didn't solve the problem. Since this would be the "strongest" cable signal coming into my house, would I need a booster?

I guess I just want to rule out that it ISN'T the TV. Am I correct in this assumption or could the plasma TV cause "video noise" too?

Any info would help.

Thanks

TechoFobe

03-21-06, 08:24 PM

Once again, I really appreciate any assistance with these questions.
Michael,

I would imagine that the monitor will definitely need power to operate... My 50" Panasonic monitor needs about 4-amps worth of 120-volt power.

Something else ---- I can't tell very well from the pictures, but will you be able to access the rear side of the shelves that will hold your receiver and DVD equipment? When I was building my home theater, I made a custom shelf area (a standard audio/video sized rack). From the adjacent storage area, I can access the rear of this shelving unit. I have a door on the shelving unit that I can open in order to easily access the wiring side of my a/v units. It has been tremendously helpful. If I need to connect something new it makes doing so a breeze... No more fighting to get to the jacks in order to add a component or replace defective receivers.

The room looks promising indeed! The custom shelves might be something you want to consider? Maybe even mount a large hinged picture over the rear access door --- like you see hiding safes in the Pink Panther movies. Can you say: "Clouseau"?:D

BruZZi

03-21-06, 08:39 PM

ah! they DO make one already assembled and I already know these people through work (I sell semiconductors) cool! I'll get one...thanks AGAIN Bruzzi!
(note- almost all of the adapters I found were silver not gold and this cable uses no adapters and gold connecters)

Great. I have always suggested Ram Electronics for Component/VGA Cables. :)

__________________________________
BruZZi's Panasonic Plasma FAQ — bruzzi.ws
Lots of info for all Plasmas in general.

TechoFobe

03-21-06, 08:40 PM

Can anyone answer this question for me. I have been watching my new 8UK for the past week and I seem to have "video noise" going on in the background. I guess I just want to rule out that it ISN'T the TV. Am I correct in this assumption or could the plasma TV cause "video noise" too?
Electrical noise could be "sneaking in" from many places. Have you tried connecting a DVD directly to the monitor? If your monitor still exhibits the video noise, it would indicate to me that the noise isn't confined to the cable signal.

I had a problem once with "video noise" anytime the microwave was turned on in the kitchen. Which is one reason why I have Panamax power conditioners now. Clean, noise-free AC power... Ahhhhh.

cpcat

03-21-06, 08:50 PM

cpcat,

That is perfect, exactly the information I was looking for and it answered my questions! Thank you so much.

On another note, what do you know about the HD-DVD? How do you know it will be HDMI? What is BD?

I think I'm going to run an extra HDMI in preparation of the release. If I purchase another HDMI card for the back of my panny, what slot will it use (Svideo or Component?) Please advise.

Jeff

BD is BlueRay Disc which is Sony's versioin of high defintion DVD.

In all likelihood high defintion signals will only be available via HDMI due to paranoia over lack of copy protection over analog.

I think it's slots 1 and 2 which are used for HDMI, but I'm sure your manual will tell you. I don't own the 8UK myself. I'd bet Bruzzi's FAQ has this info as well as the Panasonic website. Here:http://www.bruzzi.ws/plasma-faq/showthread.php?t=25

BruZZi

03-21-06, 09:09 PM

I think it's slots 1 and 2 which are used for HDMI

Yup. The DVI, HDMI and S-Video/Composite Boards will work only in the slot 1 or 2.

So if you want to use 2 HDMI Boards, you won't be able to use the S-video/Composite anymore.

__________________________________
BruZZi's Panasonic Plasma FAQ — bruzzi.ws
Lots of info for all Plasmas in general.

JerryNY

03-22-06, 02:35 AM

In all likelihood high defintion signals will only be available via HDMI due to paranoia over lack of copy protection over analog.

Apparently Sony is having a change of mind:
http://arstechnica.com/news.ars/post/20060314-6377.html

They won't be down-converting over analog it seems. Score one for the anti-HDCP crowd :)

-Jerry C.

cpcat

03-22-06, 07:46 AM

Apparently Sony is having a change of mind:
http://arstechnica.com/news.ars/post/20060314-6377.html

They won't be down-converting over analog it seems. Score one for the anti-HDCP crowd :)

-Jerry C.

This only applies to the Sony releases, not all BD discs. Unless most/all of the studios agree, it will still be too much hassle to use analog.

TechoFobe

03-22-06, 10:02 AM

This only applies to the Sony releases, not all BD discs. Unless most/all of the studios agree, it will still be too much hassle to use analog.
Would someone wake me up when BD vs. HD-DVD vs. copyright infringement is resolved and a high-def DVD player costs $49.95?

Anticipatory anticipation...

:D

I'm waiting for a hydrogen-fusion powered Hummer...

"Save The Trees!"

citman

03-22-06, 10:08 AM

Thanks for the information on sources to purchase cables. With your help I have more than enough sources for cables. My questions really lies with what cables to I run in the wall? This of course takes into account the cables I plan to use now:

HR10-250 HDMI to HDMI Panny 50PHD8UK 10'
DVD Component to BNC Panny 50PHD8UK 10'
RX-V1500 Yamaha Receiver Svideo to Svideo Panny 50PHD8UK 10'
Computer / other VGA to VGA 50PHD8UK 10'

But also run cables for future
HD-DVD video output (DVI-D or HDMI?)
CoAx for different monitor that has tuner?
RCA component cables?

Does this make sense?

jhowell-
just remember which blades can be used in which slots....VERY important (I made this mistake in my plans) The only 2 single boards that can be used in slot 3 are the component and pc boards - http://www.bruzzi.ws/plasma-faq/showthread.php?t=25

you already have planned a HDMI (slot 1 or 2 only), a S-video (slot 1 or 2 only), and a component (1,2, or 3). With the VGA/PC board in slot 4 then really you only need to run 4 wires maximum in the wall to the set (that's all you can run really) If you buy additional blades (say 2 HDMI in slots 1/2) then you will eliminate one of the others. You can always buy a switch for these lines and install it where your components are and connect 2 sources into 1 line in the wall.

It really depends on what components you plan to use and how you want to connect, but still...you can only use 4 lines.

citman

03-22-06, 10:16 AM

hey guys...I've noticed something a little weird in the past 2-3 days. When watching any of the HD stations via D* HR10-250...when you switch channels...almost immediately (or within the first 2-3 seconds after switching) the picture pauses briefly (like freezes briefly for a second or two) It seems that this only happens with the HD stations...not SD.

Anybody else get this? Is it the 10-250 taking time to process the HD signal or something?

OH...I now have everything ordered and set....I think ;) :)
My setup- 50PHD8UK/Oppo 971(DVI)/HR10-250(HDMI)/STR-DE898(component)/VCR/PS2 (through receiver)(haven't tried the PS2 or VCR yet)

any of you guys game on your 8UK? I waiting until the 100 hours go by (I have the Avia and DVE discs coming also) My 8 year old son REALLY wants me to hook up the PS2 to the new set :D I'm holding him off for now ;)

citman

03-22-06, 10:24 AM

Would someone wake me up when BD vs. HD-DVD vs. copyright infringement is resolved and a high-def DVD player costs $49.95?

Anticipatory anticipation...

:D

I'm waiting for a hydrogen-fusion powered Hummer...

"Save The Trees!"

LOL :D I've heard that you can actually order the DVDs for both already? and that these players are going to cost like $750-$1000 when they come out? I saw them at CES this year....and they were freakin awesome I have to admit. CES is one of the reasons I finally bought the 8UK this year. All the manufacturers had only plasma and lcd sets out (don't think I saw even 1 projection set) OH- the 108" plasma (I think it was Samsung) was freaky too. CES rocks.

TechoFobe

03-22-06, 10:27 AM

jhowell-
just remember which blades can be used in which slots....VERY important (I made this mistake in my plans) The only 2 single boards that can be used in slot 3 are the component and pc boards...

...you already have planned a HDMI (slot 1 or 2 only), a S-video (slot 1 or 2 only), and a component (1,2, or 3). With the VGA/PC board in slot 4 then really you only need to run 4 wires maximum...

...It really depends on what components you plan to use and how you want to connect, but still...you can only use 4 lines.
It's time for me to finally become an AVS Club Member, like you, and list my new DVI blade that I can't use (my mistake) in the "For Sale" forum area. Look for it there soon. Maybe at half-price???

citman

03-22-06, 11:13 AM

It's time for me to finally become an AVS Club Member, like you, and list my new DVI blade that I can't use (my mistake) in the "For Sale" forum area. Look for it there soon. Maybe at half-price???

WHAT?!? man....if you would've told me this a week or two ago... :mad:
If anything I could see myself buying another HDMI...but 1 DVI is enough. Only reason I picked it up is to potentially avoid the HDCP thing if I ever wanted to that is built into the HDMI.

GeorgeRam

03-22-06, 11:28 AM

TechoFobe

03-22-06, 11:34 AM

WHAT?!? man....if you would've told me this a week or two ago... :mad:
If anything I could see myself buying another HDMI...but 1 DVI is enough. Only reason I picked it up is to potentially avoid the HDCP thing if I ever wanted to that is built into the HDMI.
Maybe to be on the "safe side" I should just pack this DVI blade up and store it with all of the other stuff I'll never use? Problem is the pile of stuff I'll never use is getting lots bigger than the pile of stuff I use...

I have a HDMI blade and a DVI blade. Maybe I should instead sell my HDMI blade because from what I've read, they both do the same thing (ignoring the audio capability of HDMI, which I don't need anyways).

It just so happens that on the top of the big stack of things that I'll never use is a HDMI to DVI adapter, so I could easily switch and use either the HDMI blade or the DVI blade.

Thing is, my son is on the way over to help me take the monitor down from the fireplace mantel and swap out the blades. So, I need to decide quickly.

HDMI? DVI? Decisions decisions... What do the experts suggest? HDMI or DVI connections? :confused:

jsf2001

03-22-06, 11:50 AM

Maybe to be on the "safe side" I should just pack this DVI blade up and store it with all of the other stuff I'll never use? Problem is the pile of stuff I'll never use is getting lots bigger than the pile of stuff I use...

I have a HDMI blade and a DVI blade. Maybe I should instead sell my HDMI blade because from what I've read, they both do the same thing (ignoring the audio capability of HDMI, which I don't need anyways).

It just so happens that on the top of the big stack of things that I'll never use is a HDMI to DVI adapter, so I could easily switch and use either the HDMI blade or the DVI blade.

Thing is, my son is on the way over to help me take the monitor down from the fireplace mantel and swap out the blades. So, I need to decide quickly.

HDMI? DVI? Decisions decisions... What do the experts suggest? HDMI or DVI connections? :confused:

There seems to be some confusion over whether or not the panel can display native rate over HDMI. While the specs suggest that it may not, some people believe that it can even though this ability is not documented. So, if you are committed to using an outboard scaler in the future, you are probably safer using a DVI blade.

Having said this, HDMI is the present and future - at least by today's definition. If you plan on purchasing a HD-DVD player in the future, it is likely to have HDMI output (also component) but not as likely to have DVI. So, you'd have to use an adapter anyway to hook it up to DVI if you are using a DVI blade. Plus, check to confirm that the Panny DVI blad is HDCP compliant as future HD-DVD's are likely to require that when outputting a digital signal to a panel. If the DVI blade is not HDCP compliant, the panel may not be capable of rendering a picture from the HD-DVD.

Hope this doesn't add to your confusion. If it were my decision to make, I'd install an HDMI blade and keep the DVI in storage for possible future use if you ever decide to introduct an outboard scaler. (Have you thought about installing both and removing the S-Video/Composite blade?)

TechoFobe

03-22-06, 12:39 PM

Hope this doesn't add to your confusion. If it were my decision to make, I'd install an HDMI blade and keep the DVI in storage for possible future use if you ever decide to introduct an outboard scaler. (Have you thought about installing both and removing the S-Video/Composite blade?)
Nope, you didn't add to my confusion --- I am already so confused that I can't get any more confused. :)

What is an outboard scalar? Does it have its own remote, because I need another remote to make it an even dozen??? How would I find out if the DVI blade for the Panny is HDCP compliant? Why couldn't I input a HD-DVD device via HDMI (sometime in the future) into my A/V receiver along with my HD satellite receiver and DVD, by connecting the receiver's HDMI output to the DVI blade using a HDMI to DVI adapter? Will the HD-DVD (when it happens) will require a HDCP compliant input?

Native resolution? Ummmmm, yeah that worries me a lot. :D Or, would if I understood it... All I know is that I have "native" turned OFF.

I am replacing either the HDMI or DVI blade that is presently installed in my monitor's slots so that I can install the S-Video blade. I need to input/switch one of three different S-Video devices that I have. I would remove the component blade instead, but the S-Video can only be installed in slots 1 or 2... And, actually, I don't see any purpose for having both a DVI blade AND a HDMI blade in the same monitor... Redundent?

Sigh...

Jack D

03-22-06, 12:41 PM

There seems to be some confusion over whether or not the panel can display native rate over HDMI. While the specs suggest that it may not, some people believe that it can even though this ability is not documented. So, if you are committed to using an outboard scaler in the future, you are probably safer using a DVI blade.

Having said this, HDMI is the present and future - at least by today's definition. If you plan on purchasing a HD-DVD player in the future, it is likely to have HDMI output (also component) but not as likely to have DVI. So, you'd have to use an adapter anyway to hook it up to DVI if you are using a DVI blade. Plus, check to confirm that the Panny DVI blad is HDCP compliant as future HD-DVD's are likely to require that when outputting a digital signal to a panel. If the DVI blade is not HDCP compliant, the panel may not be capable of rendering a picture from the HD-DVD.

Hope this doesn't add to your confusion. If it were my decision to make, I'd install an HDMI blade and keep the DVI in storage for possible future use if you ever decide to introduct an outboard scaler. (Have you thought about installing both and removing the S-Video/Composite blade?)

FYI: The panny DVI blade is definitely HDCP compliant.

Jack D

03-22-06, 12:46 PM

Nope, you didn't add to my confusion --- I am already so confused that I can't get any more confused. :)

What is an outboard scalar? Does it have its own remote, because I need another remote to make it an even dozen??? How would I find out if the DVI blade for the Panny is HDCP compliant? Why couldn't I input a HD-DVD device via HDMI (sometime in the future) into my A/V receiver along with my HD satellite receiver and DVD, by connecting the receiver's HDMI output to the DVI blade using a HDMI to DVI adapter? Will the HD-DVD (when it happens) will require a HDCP compliant input?

Native resolution? Ummmmm, yeah that worries me a lot. :D Or, would if I understood it... All I know is that I have "native" turned OFF.

I am replacing either the HDMI or DVI blade that is presently installed in my monitor's slots so that I can install the S-Video blade. I need to input/switch one of three different S-Video devices that I have. I would remove the component blade instead, but the S-Video can only be installed in slots 1 or 2... And, actually, I don't see any purpose for having both a DVI blade AND a HDMI blade in the same monitor... Redundent?

Sigh...

External video processors generally have superior processing and thus produce better PQ than the internal VPs of a display. To take full advantage of this superior processing, however, you have to send the exact resolution and timing from the VP to the display that the display "wants" (e.g., native resolution) otherwise the display will reprocess the signal which leads to degrated PQ. You can get significantly better PQ with an external VP but they are not plug and play. You have to be willing to fiddle with them to get the correct signal to the display and some displays simply do not accept their native resoultion (odd but true).

citman

03-22-06, 01:01 PM

The 50PHD8UK's native resolution is 1366x768 pixels. I was looking at a VP from DVDO that a few guys are already using that does output the native-
http://www.dvdo.com/pro/index.php
it's the VP30...REALLY slick piece of equipment...but worth $2k? who knows :rolleyes:

great thing about this VP is that you can put EVERYTHING immaginable into it....and EVERY signal out is exactly 1366x768. The 8UK would never have to scale anything and you'd never have to mess with any outputs/inputs or aspect ratios. Nice :cool: (at least that's my understanding of how this thing works)

citman

03-22-06, 01:05 PM

This happens on my HR10-250 also. I've had it for over a year. I wouldn't worry about it.

yeah..it's not real bad...but somewhat annoying really. i wonder what causes it and if there is a fix? I already run a Belkin power conditioner/signal filter before the STB so I'd like to think the power and signal is clean. It has to be an internal processor thing that the STB has to reset itself or something when you change channels. Either that or the IC is just too slow (I've noticed the HD tivo is allot slower IMO than my SD tivo) I think I'll email Hughes (i think they're the ones who make the box?)

siobrett

03-22-06, 05:17 PM

EnochLight

03-22-06, 06:28 PM

Well, before the forum admin shut my thread down because he thought it was turning into a Costco discussion, I attempted to post this reply to optivity in my thread regarding running a DVD for the first 100 hours to break mine in:

I don't recommend doing this. Why burn your phosphors when you're not enjoying watching your PDP? I also don't believe it's a good idea to run it continuously for 4 1/2 days, much of that time unmonitored. Why not just follow your PDP maker's break in recommendations instead?

Hmmmm...true that... I guess I was just tryinig to get through the breakin period, but I see now that it is recommended to actually run it at 50% contrast the first 1000 hours of running it - that's like 200 days at 5 hours of viewing time/day in my household!

Can anyone confirm how the picture on this panel looks at 50% contrast? That's a long time to run at 50%...

cpcat

03-22-06, 07:16 PM

Well, before the forum admin shut my thread down because he thought it was turning into a Costco discussion, I attempted to post this reply to optivity in my thread regarding running a DVD for the first 100 hours to break mine in:

Hmmmm...true that... I guess I was just tryinig to get through the breakin period, but I see now that it is recommended to actually run it at 50% contrast the first 1000 hours of running it - that's like 200 days at 5 hours of viewing time/day in my household!

Can anyone confirm how the picture on this panel looks at 50% contrast? That's a long time to run at 50%...

I have broken in two plasmas now and neither did I run at lower settings for break-in. A little caution is really all that's required. Just limit black bars and vary your programming to account for logos and tickers. If you run it unattended like for children's programming, don't hesitate to run the screen wiper. My kids didn't mind a bit. I also used the screen wiper for the PC during my first 200 hours or so. If you run a PC, you should probably lower the contrast setting for that input.

TechoFobe

03-22-06, 07:53 PM

If you run a PC, you should probably lower the contrast setting for that input.

What about playing online poker? Besides losing money while playing, it seems like that static screen display (a view of the virtual poker table) would probably be asking for trouble?

I mean that is, IF I were to ever play poker online...

I do have my PC's screen blank set for 3 minutes and the screen blanker is set to be a blank, black screen.

How does the 8UK's wipe and negative screensaver settings work? I tried it once and couldn't figure out how to get the darned thing to stop wiping --- and there was no picture at all.

Thanks! :)

BruZZi

03-22-06, 07:57 PM

I tried it once and couldn't figure out how to get the darned thing to stop wiping ???

Thanks! :)

Just press the return (R) key. :)

__________________________________
BruZZi's Panasonic Plasma FAQ — bruzzi.ws
Lots of info for all Plasmas in general.

EnochLight

03-22-06, 08:02 PM

I have broken in two plasmas now and neither did I run at lower settings for break-in. A little caution is really all that's required. Just limit black bars and vary your programming to account for logos and tickers. If you run it unattended like for children's programming, don't hesitate to run the screen wiper. My kids didn't mind a bit. I also used the screen wiper for the PC during my first 200 hours or so. If you run a PC, you should probably lower the contrast setting for that input.

Thanks for that. I'm just so weary of ruining it before the official break-in period of 1000 hours. How does this display look at 50% contrast? Is it too dark or faded?

TechoFobe

03-22-06, 08:07 PM

Just press the return (R) key. :)

:D Is that in the USER'S manual by any weird chance?

Time to break-down and read it...

Thanks BruZZi !!!

BruZZi

03-22-06, 08:12 PM

:D Is that in the USER'S manual by any weird chance?

Yup. :p

__________________________________
BruZZi's Panasonic Plasma FAQ — bruzzi.ws
Lots of info for all Plasmas in general.

Yamadr6

03-22-06, 09:14 PM

I have my TH-50PHD8UK screensaver set on Wobble On and I run the White Bar Scroll manually when I am done using my PC input. If I am planning to use my PC input for a few hours consecutively I set the optional screensaver timer. :D

optivity

03-22-06, 10:42 PM

I'm not 100% sure but my impression is screen-wipers(?), white scroll bars, etc., should be used as a "last resort" and only as a method to remove clear evidence of image retention. While these safeguards may work to some degree they do so by adding an increased amount of wear to the phosphors.

Panasonic's recommendations of running a new panel with a 50% contrast setting will result in an undesirable, too dim, picture. I recommend running a new Panasonic PDP with the Standard option and the Picture setting in the +10 - +12 range. The most important rules to follow is to display no black bars during the first 100 hours, try and vary the channels you watch and limit the use of static images... PC graphics, games, on-screen menus, program guides, etc.

During hours 100 - 1000, limited (15% of viewing) use of black bars/static images is permissible. After 1000 hours the risk of permanent image retention is low.

cpcat

03-22-06, 11:02 PM

I wouldn't really concern much over wear on a 60,000 hour panel. I'd rather have 18 years to half brightness without IR than 20 with. You could say the same thing about contrast settings.

optivity

03-22-06, 11:12 PM

I wouldn't really concern much over wear on a 60,000 hour panel. I'd rather have 18 years to half brightness without IR than 20 with. You could say the same thing about contrast settings.Crank it up and hopefully the image-retention does not become permanent. As for 60,000 hours before half brightness... I'll believe that statistic when I see it.

EnochLight

03-22-06, 11:35 PM

As for 60,000 hours before half brightness... I'll believe that statistic when I see it.

Heheheh - only 15 to 20 years to go!!!! ;-)

Anywho, so you recommend running at standard contrast and just regulating the stuff on screen to avoid black bars/watermarkes, etc - at least through the first 1000 hours?

This all bodes well for me if that is indeed the case - a 50% contrast setting doesn't seem too attractive to me, especially for 1000 hours of break-in. That's a helluva long time to go - even at 8 hours of viewing a day.

Do you own the TH-50PHD8UK? If so, how has your first impressions been with it?

optivity

03-23-06, 07:44 AM

gizlaroc

03-23-06, 08:05 AM

Heheheh - only 15 to 20 years to go!!!! ;-)

Anywho, so you recommend running at standard contrast and just regulating the stuff on screen to avoid black bars/watermarkes, etc - at least through the first 1000 hours?

This all bodes well for me if that is indeed the case - a 50% contrast setting doesn't seem too attractive to me, especially for 1000 hours of break-in. That's a helluva long time to go - even at 8 hours of viewing a day.

Do you own the TH-50PHD8UK? If so, how has your first impressions been with it?

Once the PHD is calibrated properly, you will find that the contrast will be just below 50%, and that is in Cinema Mode.

I would put the screen in Cinema Mode, leave the contrast on 0 and then go into the advanced setting and adjust the imput level to around -20, this gets rid of the digital tizz in the image while the screen is bedding in, after about 200 hours you can knock it up to around -10 and after 400 odd hours knock it up to 0.

To set the black level simply put a film on with black bars and stand nect to the screen, see any noise or green lit pixels?? If yes knock the brightness down until the black is solid and there is no noise at all. This is as black as you can go, won't go any blacker and going any lower will just loose detail.

Colour is always around -3 or lower, anymore it looks like a cartoon.

If you ever go above 50% contrast you need shooting, it is adding noise to the image and destroying what is an excellent image, and you are shortening the life of the set.
Some of the Pannys I have set up need to have the constrast as low as -6, but I have never had one go into + figures.

Enjoy!! :D

EDIT: The above is only for the commercial range, the consumer range is completely different.

optivity

03-23-06, 08:28 AM

How close are the default consumer / commercial picture settings... not the numbers but the actual appearance of what each panel renders?

gizlaroc

03-23-06, 08:33 AM

Not too far off when you stick them in Cinema mode, I have never seen one of the consumer models look as good as the commercial screens though, always seems to have that digital tiz to the image.
I just don't think there is enough control over them.

optivity

03-23-06, 08:44 AM

The extra picture controls of the commercial series are desirable... for CATV subscribers its too bad they are not combined with a CableCARD slot and direct signal input to the TVs internal MPEG decoder, deinterlacing/scaling electronics. I'll be in the market for a ~65" 1080p PDP (sed?) display someday... and for $10,000... or whatever it costs... its going to have all the "bells & whistles!" ;)

DEFman

03-23-06, 08:55 AM

I agree with Gislaroc.
HD channels on my 50phd8uk looks best on Cinema mode / Warm
with "picture" (contrast) at 0 and brightness at -10.

SD channels improve if I turn the brightness down to -15 to -20. I'm guessing its because you lose some of the screen noise.

All other basic settings are at flat 0.
On bright days I have to tweak things, but 90%of the time this works just fine.

On another note:
1000 hours - break in??????
I'm not sure who is proposing that.
Panny says 100 hours.

optivity

03-23-06, 09:33 AM

Run your PDP as you wish but Panasonic recommends these procedures for:

"Plasma Break-In

Like a fine new automobile, the performance of a plasma TV can be optimized by allowing a break-in period. By properly following these simple break-in instructions, you should be rewarded with long-term enjoyment of your plasma TV. Plasma phosphors are most susceptible to image retention in the first hundred hours of use. The panel becomes considerably less sensitive to burn-in after this period. Very often, televisions, including plasma, are shipped from the factory with the contrast control at a high setting to provide a bright picture under typical dealer showroom lighting conditions. In your home, the room light levels are usually one half or less than that in retail showrooms. The contrast control may need to be lowered in your home for comfortable contrast levels that do not induce eye strain. When the plasma is initially installed, videophiles say it is best to do the following:

- Make sure the display is in a viewing mode (aspect ratio) that completely fills the screen (there are often three or more settings from which to choose). The panel is shipped in this condition, in what is called the “Just” mode.

- Turn down the picture control (contrast) to 50% or less.

- Briefly engage the 4:3 mode to confirm the side bars are set to mid-gray (there is usually an adjustment in the Set Up menu that takes the sidebars from black to gray) to minimize the chance of burn-in.

- Return the set to a “full screen” (Just, Zoom, Full) position during the first hundred hours of use.

- During the first hundred hours of use it is best not to view the same channel for extended periods. This should prevent channel logos and other fixed images found on some channels from being retained.

- Avoid any static images (video games, computer images, DVD title screens, etc.) during the hundred-hour break-in.

After the hundred-hour break-in period, during the next nine-hundred hours:

- Continue to retain the picture setting at 50% or less.

- Limit the use of 4:3 aspect ratio mode (traditional picture size that does not fill the entire screen) to 15% of viewing time.

- Limit the use of static images (computer, video games, etc.) to less than 10% of viewing time.

After one-thousand viewing hours, panels are much less likely to experience image burn-in."

Hooptie157

03-23-06, 10:03 AM

Just a side note:

When I play halo over Xbox live on my 8uk everytime the game is over I engage the negative until the next game starts (about 3-5 min between games with the game time being about 5-10 min). I also have the wobble "on". I played for about 4.5 hours last night, turn off the lights took a deep breath switched to a "no signal" input and have zero signs of image retention.

Before I took these measures if I played for 1 hour I would see slight image retention of the radar and life bars (with 1 hour of standard viewing the images went away). But with using this new method I see 0 image retention. I'm soo very happy right now :)

BTW my TV had about 80 hours on it yesterday so prolly like 86 now.

citman

03-23-06, 10:09 AM

Hi, I am new to this forum and have been researching for a while but I am still confused about scaling. Does this panel upscale or do I need my receiver to upscale. My 8uk was shipped today and I need to get a receiver. I was looking at the denon 2807 but it only upconverts not upscales. The yamaha 2600 will upscale so if I need outboard upscaling I should probably get that one instead. I really want to have only one hdmi cable from rec to panel. Thanks, I don't know how people would understand all this jargon without forums such as this.
Brett

Brett,
the set will upscale or downscale what ever signal it receives Brett. Unless you have a receiver that scales the signal to exactly 1366x768 pixels (the set's native resolution) then the set's internal scaler will HAVE to convert it either up (480/540/720) or down (1080) to display it. Now some input signals look better than others and are easier or more compatible I believe to the set's internal scaler. I find with my Oppo DVD player that the DVDs look slightly better at 720 or 1080 than they do at 480 or 540 output signals. The difference between 720 and 1080 is real hard to see. Undertand now?

HTH :)

Yamadr6

03-23-06, 10:10 AM

I am a firm believer that we do not know were we are going to be tomorrow. With this in mind, I only broke mine in for the fist 100 hours and after that I am just using it with a bit of caution. There is no reason for viewing your plasma at half-life quality when you just finished spending so much money on it. So take the time to enjoy it and less time worrying it about it.

Stay away from the black bars and static logos for a prolonged period of time and it will all be fine. :D

BruZZi

03-23-06, 10:13 AM

You only need to worry about 1000 hours break-in if you:

- Watch whatever source that leaves black bars or those stupid static logos straight for several months.
- Play lots of games
- Don't watch enough full-screen material

But even if you do starting to get image retention, you can use the negative function (Not the whole white screen) to improve/fix that (assuming you're not going to abuse the TV). Unfortunately the consumer models don't have screensavers so you must be more careful with them.

__________________________________
BruZZi's Panasonic Plasma FAQ — bruzzi.ws
Lots of info for all Plasmas in general.

optivity

03-23-06, 10:15 AM

some input signals look better than others and are easier or more compatible I believe to the set's internal scaler. I find with my Oppo DVD player that the DVDs look slightly better at 720 or 1080 than they do at 480 or 540 output signals. The difference between 720 and 1080 is real hard to see.What display do you have your OPPO connected to? Have you tried the player with the new firmware level yet? I have my OPDV971H set to 720p and it looks great playing DVDs back on my 50PX50U.

BruZZi

03-23-06, 10:15 AM

Just a side note:

When I play halo over Xbox live on my 8uk everytime the game is over I engage the negative until the next game starts (about 3-5 min between games with the game time being about 5-10 min)...

Yup... that helps. :)

__________________________________
BruZZi's Panasonic Plasma FAQ — bruzzi.ws
Lots of info for all Plasmas in general.

Yamadr6

03-23-06, 10:20 AM

citman

03-23-06, 10:23 AM

yeah...I'm with Yam on this too. I have all the inputs set to picture 0, color medium, and brightness at 0 (I actually think it looks great at 0 or less around -5 - -10) I haven't hooked up the PS2 yet and probably won't until after 100 hours for sure. I'll have to read up on the negative and white scroll bar things to be ready for the PS2. I already have the set wobble thing on.

I forget where the instructions were on Bruzzi's site to check how many hours you have used already? I've got to go find that again :p

citman

03-23-06, 10:26 AM

What display do you have your OPPO connected to? Have you tried the player with the new firmware level yet? I have my OPDV971H set to 720p and it looks great playing DVDs back on my 50PX50U.

I have the 50 8UK commercial and the Oppo via DVI blade. I just got it so to my knowledge it has the latest firmware installed. Like I said it looks great at any output, but I think you can see a difference at 720 or 1080 instead of 480/540. 720 and up looks better IMO

Yamadr6

03-23-06, 10:29 AM

cpcat

03-23-06, 10:46 AM

I'm not 100% sure but my impression is screen-wipers(?), white scroll bars, etc., should be used as a "last resort" and only as a method to remove clear evidence of image retention. While these safeguards may work to some degree they do so by adding an increased amount of wear to the phosphors.
.
Crank it up and hopefully the image-retention does not become permanent. As for 60,000 hours before half brightness... I'll believe that statistic when I see it.

I was actually referring primarily to use of the screen wiper when I feel like it. I guess I'll live dangerously then. :)

I'd rather have my panel age evenly even if it ages at a slightly faster rate.

After 1000 hours it should be no longer necessary, which will still only be 1/60th of the half-brightness life. Do you really think it matters that much? Even assuming 30,000 hours?

optivity

03-23-06, 11:01 AM

I was actually referring primarily to use of the screen wiper when I feel like it. I guess I'll live dangerously then. :)

I'd rather have my panel age evenly even if it ages at a slightly faster rate.

After 1000 hours it should be no longer necessary, which will still only be 1/60th of the half-brightness life. Do you really think it matters that much? Even assuming 30,000 hours?Nope.

But I've always tried to take proper care of my toys: gas grill, lawn mower, snowblower, chipper vac, pressure washer, automobiles...

BTW... I'm on my way to Time Warner to rent their new DC551 STB (http://www.pace.co.uk/americas/products/prodinfo.asp?PID=DCT551) for my CT-36HL42 CRT-HDTV.

cpcat

03-23-06, 11:07 AM

Nope.

But I've always tried to take proper care of my toys: gas grill, lawn mower, snowblower, chipper vac, pressure washer, automobiles...

BTW... I'm on my way to Time Warner to rent their new DC551 STB (http://www.pace.co.uk/americas/products/prodinfo.asp?PID=DCT551) for my CT-36HL42 CRT-HDTV.

Wow, very nice.

Wish I had an option for HD cable. :(

Yamadr6

03-23-06, 03:17 PM

Yamadr6

03-23-06, 06:06 PM

TechoFobe

03-23-06, 07:01 PM

Anyone ever heard of this. I have a VP211 HD box and it has a USB 2.0 input. I was wondering if it is possible to use this to convert composite to USB and thus be able to use a VCR or a PS2 via this USB input. :rolleyes:

http://www.ramelectronics.net/html/usb_video_adapter.html
yamadr6,

Can you say abra-cadabra? Guaranteed to get any A/V equipment to work... :)

Looks similar to a cable that came with a digital video camera of mine, except it had a firewire (1386) plug instead of a USB plug. That cable worked great.

For 70 bucks, it should do the trick???

HallertauRogue

03-23-06, 07:41 PM

new question- WHERE do you find RCA/BNC component cables? or is everybody using adapters? I've found lots of single lines, RCA/RCA, BNC/BNC, but no RCA/BNC 3 wire (found 5). Does anyone make these ?

TIA

I use a 1.5' one from the site below to connect TV on wall to in-wall plate with component. One of the only reasonbly priced and 75ohm rated BNC to component cables I could find. They work like a dream.

http://www.cablestogo.com/product_list.asp?cat%5Fid=2037&engine=adwords!654&keyword=%28bnc+to+rca+component+cable%29

EnochLight

03-23-06, 10:58 PM

EnochLight

03-23-06, 11:07 PM

One of the only reasonbly priced and 75ohm rated BNC to component cables I could find.

I found these for just $39.50 for a 12-foot length (they also come in a 6-foot for less). They're 75ohm, 24-karat gold plated, etc - great deal for good cables.

http://www.cablesnmor.com/rca-bnc-cable.html

You couldn't convince me to drop $100 on cables for any amount of supposed image quality improvement.

HallertauRogue

03-24-06, 11:20 AM

I found these for just $39.50 for a 12-foot length (they also come in a 6-foot for less). They're 75ohm, 24-karat gold plated, etc - great deal for good cables.

http://www.cablesnmor.com/rca-bnc-cable.html

You couldn't convince me to drop $100 on cables for any amount of supposed image quality improvement.

Nice find. I should mention that I purchased those cables I linked to for a much lower price. Not as low as your find, but low.

Keep in mind my AV rack has commercial grade cabling stealth run through the walls/crawlspace. behind my TV is an output plate with several options. I don't mind dropping $30 on a 1.5' cable to ensure it is up to the standards of the rest of the cable run. No need to lose quality on a small "interconnect" cable to the TV.

FMCube

03-24-06, 02:27 PM

Can someone PM me about the 880 rebate. I am interested in purchasing the 880.
Also Citman can you let me know how your 880 works for you.

Thanks
Lenny

Me three!

tvromero

03-24-06, 03:18 PM

Does anyone have any pics of what a "tip and tell" indicator looks like on a shipped 50PHD8UK?

I'm receiving mine on Monday or Tuesday and I'm not sure what they are supposed to look like versus what they look like "tipped"..

Anyone?

I got mine delivered about three weeks ago and there was NOT a "tip and tell" indicator on it. I suggest you just have the delivery company wait while you open the boxes and check out the glass. It should only take you about a minute or so to cut the tape and learn the plasma to the side, while still in the box, to check it out. I did this and the first one I got was indeed cracked, the second one came back fine.

Anyway a tip indicator is generally bright red and very visible, probably around 4" square, you would not miss it.

-Tim

EnochLight

03-24-06, 05:46 PM

EnochLight

03-24-06, 05:54 PM

Nice find. I should mention that I purchased those cables I linked to for a much lower price. Not as low as your find, but low.

Keep in mind my AV rack has commercial grade cabling stealth run through the walls/crawlspace. behind my TV is an output plate with several options. I don't mind dropping $30 on a 1.5' cable to ensure it is up to the standards of the rest of the cable run. No need to lose quality on a small "interconnect" cable to the TV.

Ahhh I see - in that case then heck yeah!

I just received my cables from cablesnmor.com - they're some quality kit. The wires themselves are wrapped in a super thick insulation - which is great because it will be in my walls and possibly cross a power plug's AC line. :-(

Where did you get the access plates that you installed behind your TV? I recently hid my speaker wires and mounts in my walls and plan to do the same for my plasma, but I'm crossed between whether or not I want a general "hole in the wall" that I can feed some good cables through or mount plugs...

*shrugs*

This is what I did last year:

Yamadr6

03-24-06, 06:26 PM

Thanks Tim; good to know. It's just that DTV City supposedly ships all of theres with a "tip and tell" thingy and I want to be sure what it's supposed to look like tipped versus not tipped.

Anyway, I'll be sure to scrutinize the contents prior to signing my delivery receipt. Part of my 30-day guarantee relies upon that.

I can't wait to fire that bad boy up next week!
The “tip and tell” thingy that I have seen in some items that I have received is a yellow label about 4 to 6 inches square and it has a sight glass on it. You should see Green or some other color that is not Red in this sight glass. If is Red, it has been tipped. :eek:

How it works: There is a plastic flat box inside the label and inside the plastic box there is a Red token. The token sits on the top of the box where you can’t see it because the label covers it. If the item shipped falls on its side the toke will fall to the bottom and it will then be visible in the sight glass. The plastic housing is design so that once it’s in the sight glass it could not be put back up. :(

I hope you this clarifies your doubts. Good luck with it. You are going to love it! :D

kparker

03-24-06, 06:49 PM

I just received my th-phd8uk from the freight guy. He was a dick. He would not let me inspect the package as well as bring the box inside. He was flying over speed bumps in my compex too. I opened the box, the glass is not broken. We'll see when i move next week if everything works correctly.

http://www.abfs.com/

was the shipper.

BruZZi

03-24-06, 07:18 PM

I think most places don't put "tip and tell" indicators on the shipping boxes anymore.

Here's a pic of what a "tip and tell" looks like:

http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/1645/shockwatch3zu.jpg

__________________________________
BruZZi's Panasonic Plasma FAQ — bruzzi.ws
Lots of info for all Plasmas in general.

BruZZi

03-24-06, 07:27 PM

I must agree 100% with this statement.
The only thing I am not sure about is if we use the Negative or White Bar Scroll too often do we degrade the quality of the plasma or the life of it?
BruZZi, any input on this question.
The speed of the White Bar Scroll is fast so there would be no problems. But use it only if necessary.

The negative function will make the black/dark colors of the picture white (duh !!! :D ).
If you use this feature with the black bars of 4:3 / 2.35:1 programming or any other static source with black color, the pixels used on such portions of the screen will decay faster because they are always on .
So the negative function should be used only if you see image retention on your plasma. Or few minutes as a prevention.

__________________________________
BruZZi's Panasonic Plasma FAQ — bruzzi.ws
Lots of info for all Plasmas in general.

kparker

03-24-06, 08:08 PM

Mine did not have a "tip and tell" indicator on the box. It was upright when he opened the truck. I just opened it to see how it looks, did not plug-in though since I am moving in a week.

Assembled in Mexico March 2006. I was hoping it was assembled in Japan, but I am sure it will be alright.

EnochLight

03-24-06, 11:52 PM

I just received my th-phd8uk from the freight guy. He was a dick. He would not let me inspect the package as well as bring the box inside.

That sucks man! According to DTV City's policy, if the shipper won't let me inspect the package prior to signing, I am to call a phone number and have them (DTV City) authorize the shipper to allow me to do so, else I can refuse the package. Hopefully he wont want his time wasted and will allow me to do so - and I take it DTV City won't pay them if they don't play nice.

We'll see what happens, and I'll report back in this thread for those interested.

Cheers!

EnochLight

03-24-06, 11:53 PM

prdog

03-25-06, 10:22 PM

plazman

03-25-06, 11:06 PM

Placed an order for a Panny 8UK. I haven't been able to see it in the stores as it's sold out but went for it based on reviews etc. I was kind of pushing my budget but what the hell. Now, i realize that I have to buy a stand and terminal board - is this tv really worth the price? Now it seems real tough to even find the terminal board and the stand is like $200. is it worth it? I mean it is to me if the picture is way better than the philips or the maxent - so my question to you is is it that much better. and where you guys buying the stand and terminal board.
thanks in advance.
---------------------------

It's the most impressive 50 inch Plasma I have seen for movies, and amongst the best picture quality for all other types of viewing at any price!

I've spent a fair amount of time trying to evaluate Plasma picture quality.

Both CNET and Consumer Reports believe the Panny is 'the' reference Plasma for PQ. I would also recommend the NEC, but it's a fair bit more expensive than the Panny 8UK...

arroyojon

03-25-06, 11:07 PM

I have had this unit for 2 weeks and generally very impressed, although when viewing SD, there is a definite green tint. I am using Time Warner HD cable through a Harmon Kardon AVR 435 receiver to the panel via component. HD looks great, but on SD there is a very noticeable green tint to the picture. I have turned off the automatic color setting and turned the color/brightness settings down during break-in. Even turning down the tint does not remove the green tint. DVD's do not have as pronouced tint, although they are slightly detectable.

Has anyone else experienced this? Any recommendations?

TechoFobe

03-25-06, 11:37 PM

1.) is it worth it?

2.) is it that much better.

3.) where you guys buying the stand and terminal board.
PrDog,

1.) Yes, absolutely.

2.) I wouldn't have bought it if I didn't believe that it was a great monitor. My satisfaction is complete after receiving it too. It isn't the cheapest monitor out there and if you don't mind settling for less you might be advised to chose a cheaper monitor. You might even like the cheap monitor perfectly well? If so, why spend the extra on a better monitor? But, only you can answer that question.

I'm sure you value my opinion highly --- ;) --- and I can tell you that I think the picture quality rocks... Oh, if only I was this satisfied with everything I buy...

I found that I paid less for my Panasonic TH-50PHD8UK monitor by buying it from an AVSForum sponsor than I would have paid locally for a lower quality monitor from Best B* or Circuit C*.

3.) Bought mine online. Google? And, if you want to save a couple hundred bucks just skip buying the pedestal stand or wall mount and use duct tape to hold it in place... I learned that trick from the Red Green Show. :D "The handyman's secret weapon!"

Also, you don't HAVE to buy the terminal board immediately. You can input signals thru the component or composite blades... You might even be able to find a good, used terminal board?

BruZZi

03-25-06, 11:51 PM

Now it seems real tough to even find the terminal board and the stand is like $200

You don't really need to buy any terminal. The Commercial Displays come with 2 Components and 1 S-Video/Composite inputs.

More info here:
http://www.bruzzi.ws/plasma-faq/showpost.php?p=37&postcount=2

As for the stand, you can get the TY-ST42PA20, TY-ST42PT1U, TY-ST42PT3K or TY-ST10K stands for 1/4 at that price at ebay.

More info here:

http://www.bruzzi.ws/plasma-faq/showthread.php?t=50

Pic of a Panny Commercial Plasma mounted on a TY-ST42PA20 Stand:

http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/3916/pannycomtystpa207qr.jpg

__________________________________
BruZZi's Panasonic Plasma FAQ — bruzzi.ws
Lots of info for all Plasmas in general.

BruZZi

03-25-06, 11:57 PM

And, if you want to save a couple hundred bucks just skip buying the pedestal stand or wall mount and use duct tape to hold it in place... I learned that trick from the Red Green Show. :D "The handyman's secret weapon!"

:p

I have had this unit for 2 weeks and generally very impressed, although when viewing SD, there is a definite green tint. I am using Time Warner HD cable through a Harmon Kardon AVR 435 receiver to the panel via component. HD looks great, but on SD there is a very noticeable green tint to the picture. I have turned off the automatic color setting and turned the color/brightness settings down during break-in. Even turning down the tint does not remove the green tint. DVD's do not have as pronouced tint, although they are slightly detectable.

Has anyone else experienced this? Any recommendations?

have you tried connecting the cable box direct to the Panny ?

__________________________________
BruZZi's Panasonic Plasma FAQ — bruzzi.ws
Lots of info for all Plasmas in general.

arroyojon

03-26-06, 08:07 PM

plazman

03-26-06, 08:41 PM

No I haven't tried connecting directly to the cable box. I had a professional install it and he said it was best to connect to AVR receiver. If it is passing the signal through directly, how would this cause the tint? I understand resolution issues, but would this affect the tint also? The cable run is 25 feet through a conduit and I don't have a second component cable running through the conduit.

Any other thoughts or should I attempt to connect directly? Thanks for your help.

Have you tried calibration? you can adjust the colors in the advanced menu....i think you need to turn up blue to turn down green...

TechoFobe

03-26-06, 08:42 PM

No I haven't tried connecting directly to the cable box. I had a professional install it and he said it was best to connect to AVR receiver. If it is passing the signal through directly, how would this cause the tint? I understand resolution issues, but would this affect the tint also? The cable run is 25 feet through a conduit and I don't have a second component cable running through the conduit.

Any other thoughts or should I attempt to connect directly? Thanks for your help.
It is easy to swap cables temporarily and run the cable box directly into the monitor... It's just a matter of troubleshooting and eliminating possible areas of concern. Even if it doesn't "fix" the tint issue you are having --- it WILL eliminate a possible source of trouble --- even if that possibility is low?

Where is that expert who installed your system when you need him? :)

arroyojon

03-26-06, 10:26 PM

I will try connecting the cable directly to the TV.

Thanks!!!

EnochLight

03-26-06, 10:30 PM

You don't really need to buy any terminal. The Commercial Displays come with 2 Components and 1 S-Video/Composite inputs.

http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/3916/pannycomtystpa207qr.jpg

BruZZi,

I didn't realize that the VGA plug on my TH-50PHD8UK was actually another component plug; that's awesome! Does this mean I could, say, use my BNC component inputs for my Hi-Def cable box and the VGA input for the component outs on my DVD player (with the proper cables, of course)?

Also, where did you get that Niagra Falls pic shown on the screenie? Nice pic!

EnochLight

03-26-06, 11:20 PM

I'm hoping this doesn't get bumped from this thread, as it is directly related to my TH-50PHD8UK's installation.

As you can see from the pic here, I have ran all of my speakers in my walls and set plates up where the speakers are on the wall as well as behind my A/V receiver. Nice and clean. However, I don't want to have to install plates behind my plasma when I mount it on the wall - I'm just running some big component cables through a hole.

However, can anyone suggest a plate that has a gasket or grommet or something so it's at least "somewhat" clean, particularly where they will come out near what I have pictured here to interface with my HD cable box?

Not to sound weird, but I'm thinking of some sort of access plate that has a "sphincter-type" gasket that will close around the wires..?

http://www.nympheas.org/pictures/speaker_plates.jpg

Any suggestions are appreciated!

cherrypik

03-27-06, 01:39 AM

EnochLight

03-27-06, 08:13 AM

Forgive me for being a noobie and asking these dumb questions.

Currently living in the Chicagoland area and I can not find this model displayed anywhere. I go to BB and they try to sell me a Samsung, I go to CC and they are clueless. Does anyone know where I can find this in the Chicagoland area so I can check the picture out. I am not really worried about the inputs because it sound like you can change them down the line which sounds cool but I noticed that it's missing a ATSC tuner.

If I have Direct TV or Comcast will it matter that I have this tuner?

Where can I find out what Comcast and Direct TV's resolution is so I can compare?

Would I be able to watch PIP if it had a tuner in the TV?

Also, where can I find out the HD resolution provided by Comcast or Direct TV in my area? I am moving to Mundelein and trying to decide which to go with.

This is a commercial panel and finding it in a retail brick and mortar store like BB or CC is close to impossible. Your best bet is to find a dealer of commercial audio/video and hope that they stock one for you to test. That said, the TH-50PHD8UK rates as pretty much the finest in picture quality for the price; check the reviews around the web for proof. I ordered mine without ever laying sight on a demo panel, and I ordered it online - as most of the people in the AVS Forums have.

If you have Direct TV HD or Comcast HD then you are all set to go. Go to Comcast's website to see what HD content is simulcast in your area, but generally it is 720p (progressive) and 1080i (interlaced). Either looks great on the TH-50PHD8UK .

Picture in picture is handled by the TH-50PHD8UK, but relies on two tuner sources I believe; I'm sure others will be able to elaborate. That said, my Comcast HD DVR box has two tuners inside of it; the moment I receive my TV I'll let you know how it works. I receive my panel this week.

Cheers!

FrankieP

03-27-06, 10:11 AM

Hey guys, my TH-50PHD8UK I bought from Costco will be delivered today!!! Can anybody give me simple instructions on how to open the box quickly to check the item before I sign off on the shipper. Much appreciate it!

EnochLight

03-27-06, 10:19 AM

Can anybody give me simple instructions on how to open the box quickly to check the item before I sign off on the shipper. Much appreciate it!

Step One: Check the "tip and tell" indicator.

This should be attached to the outside of the television box and sometimes on the side of the inner box near the serial number label. The blue sand in this indicator will "tell" you whether the TV box has been "tipped" sideways and should be treated as a warning sign. It is important that televisions be kept upright in shipping to prevent the screen from cracking from the weight of the glass panel (however it does not hurt the display internally). It is essential that an activated or missing "tip and tell" be noted on the freight bill. If there is no "tip n tell" then be sure to inspect the unit for damage or a cracked screen. An example is, John Doe "tip and tell" indicator not present, one corner of box badly dented." Lastly, if there is no problem with the "tip and tell", please proceed to the next step.

PLEASE NOTE: Do NOT refuse the shipment due to an activated tip and tell. It does not mean that the shipment is damaged - it just indicates that the shipment should be inspected very carefully.

***NOTE: Assurances from the freight company driver are not credible. You must only follow these written instructions.

Step Two: Check the entire outer box for ANY holes, tears or dents.

Although these boxes are designed for shipping a TV, occasionally a shipment will be mishandled by the carrier. Please check the entire outer box for any crushed corners, dents, tears, or holes and note any such damage on the freight bill.

PLEASE NOTE: Do NOT refuse the shipment due to a hole or tear in the box. Note it on the freight paperwork and then INSPECT the TV. ONLY after inspecting the TV entirely and you see physical damage should you refuse the TV.

Step Three: Check the glass of the screen for damages or cracks and the bezel (frame of the TV) for damage.

This can easily be done by removing the white tabs on the bottom of the box and lifting the box off of the unit. If there is damage to the screen itself or other physical damage to the unit, reject delivery of the unit without signing for it. Have the freight company take it back and we will ship you a new unit.

NOTE 1: The TV Screen must be inspected for damage before signing the freight bill of lading. In some cases the driver may not want to allow this inspection. If this occurs, call the place you purchased it from and they should instruct the driver to allow inspection. As well, sometimes the delivery driver will try to persuade the recipient to, “just sign for the shipment then you can inspect the screen.” Do not do this. Call whoever you got it from!

Taken from DTV City's guidelines; Costco may differ but for what it's worth... Let me know what you think of it once she's up and running; mine is supposed to arrive this week as well.

Cheers!