thanks guys ... I was looking for a site to help with my grammar issues

Maybe Mule can find a site to help him see better - really now, how can anyone say that those two pictures have the same PQ?

thanks guys ... I was looking for a site to help with my grammar issues

Maybe Mule can find a site to help him see better - really now, how can anyone say that those two pictures have the same PQ?

Route66, I agree with you on the pictures...the ones with 1080P are much more detailed...I am not arguing that fact. I think you could do it with a little more tact however.

Alright....I'm done arguing. Take care,

But back on topic...

Can someone point me in the direction of basic (typical) 'burn-in-period' settings for this monitor?

How about 'after-burn-in' settings?

TIA.

shane

O.K. - I will try to help now ....

Go to this link and download the ISO file, burn it to a DVD and run it for 100 hours in a full screen aspect

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6230381&&#post6230381

After that try and only watch full screen content for the next 900 hours, and try to not leave static images on the screen.

for more info read this FAQ on the Panasonic plasmas:


http://www.glaucobruzzi.com/plasma-faq/forumdisplay.php?f=16

This monitor has an option to help remove burn-in too

---

I did this and I am very very happy with how my TV looks, after the first 1000 hours you will be fine watching whatever aspect you would like.



But back on topic...

Can someone point me in the direction of basic (typical) 'burn-in-period' settings for this monitor?

How about 'after-burn-in' settings?

TIA.

shane

:D Thanks Route (especially for the Bruzzi link)... but that's not what I'm asking for.
I already have the 'burn-in' disc, and have used it on my Pio plasma.

I was hoping for typical 'settings' (contrast, brightness, tint, gamma, etc.) for before and after the burn-in period.

I know very well about taking it out of 'torch' mode and keeping the image full for the first 100 hours, etc. I know what to *do*... just not what others here have used for their settings during this period... and afterwards.

Thanks though. ;)

shane

EDIT: Ok... forget all the above. The link provides the answer to my querry! :o
Thanks again.

My bad,

look at the Bruzzi FAQ I linked you to, it has settings used by other 50PHD8UK owners after burn-in

http://www.glaucobruzzi.com/plasma-faq/showthread.php?t=24


:D Thanks Route (especially for the Bruzzi link)... but that's not what I'm asking for.
I already have the 'burn-in' disc, and have used it on my Pio plasma.

I was hoping for typical 'settings' (contrast, brightness, tint, gamma, etc.) for before and after the burn-in period.

I know very well about taking it out of 'torch' mode and keeping the image full for the first 100 hours, etc. I know what to *do*... just not what others here have used for their settings during this period... and afterwards.

Thanks though. ;)

shane

For best results, also get your set ISF-calibrated. Following the links above won't change your color temps, unless you feel like playing with your $3,000 service menu :)

For best results, also get your set ISF-calibrated. Following the links above won't change your color temps, unless you feel like playing with your $3,000 service menu :)

Well... I probably will do one or the other, and I have a tendancy to 'tinker'. :D

I figured that after an extended break-in period I would probably ISF the beast. Might as well.

shane

But back on topic...

Can someone point me in the direction of basic (typical) 'burn-in-period' settings for this monitor?

How about 'after-burn-in' settings?

TIA.

shane


Mine are in order. Mine is 5 days, so in burn-in period. Picture looks good enough that I may not want to change it. There used to be several 8UK calibration threads (some I tried on my 7UY) that I saw when I didn't need them and now I can't seem to find them.

I've notice the remote with the 8UK has no terrible range....

Cinema

-20
-12
-5
3
7
Normal
Color Manage OFF
Advanced ON
1
0
0
0
0
0
2.2
ON

Thanks Plaz.
Compared to some of the ones on the Bruzzi site, you're really dialed-down.
http://www.glaucobruzzi.com/plasma-faq/showthread.php?t=24

shane

I am happy to share my settings when I get home (at work). I am also way dialed-down from the settings in the FAQ.

I used video essentials / HDNET test pattern to get to my settings

The input type has alot to do with the setting used. I have 2 DVI cards, one connected to a DTV HDTIVO HR10-250 and one to the Oppo DVD player. I also have an XBOX 360 connected via VGA.

I can share the two DVI input settings, but have not run VE on the XBOX 360 yet

Thanks Plaz.
Compared to some of the ones on the Bruzzi site, you're really dialed-down.
http://www.glaucobruzzi.com/plasma-faq/showthread.php?t=24

shane

Thanks Plaz.
Compared to some of the ones on the Bruzzi site, you're really dialed-down.
http://www.glaucobruzzi.com/plasma-faq/showthread.php?t=24

shane


I know. I noticed so much pop in the colors that I assumed it must be too high! I was taken a back at now bright the picture was not in a torch mode kind of way. In fact, I have found that the default settings on the 8UK, particularly cinema is pretty good right out of the box.

Yeah... source is king.
I'll be initially inputting Comcast Moto 6412 PIII over HDMI and Pio Elite 79avi over component.

shane

I know. I noticed so much pop in the colors that I assumed it must be too high! I was taken a back at now bright the picture was not in a torch mode kind of way. In fact, I have found that the default settings on the 8UK, particularly cinema is pretty good right out of the box.

Yeah... and on most monitors 'Cinema' is downright *dark*! :D

Well... I probably will do one or the other, and I have a tendancy to 'tinker'. :D

I figured that after an extended break-in period I would probably ISF the beast. Might as well.

shane

I got the cal at approx. 500 hrs. 20% too much blue and several contrast/brightness adjustements for each input.

Looks stunning and well worth the $$$ :D

Well with a set top box it is hard to calibrate. I used a test pattern on HDNET. I think it plays Tuesdays at 3:00 am

Yeah... source is king.
I'll be initially inputting Comcast Moto 6412 PIII over HDMI and Pio Elite 79avi over component.

shane

were you charged per input? if you do not mind sharing what was your cost?

I am at almost 500hr now and think a cal may be in order. But then again I plan to convert to all HDMI and one input soon so ?

I got the cal at approx. 500 hrs. 20% too much blue and several contrast/brightness adjustements for each input.

Looks stunning and well worth the $$$ :D

Is there any quality loss in the adapter to plug in the analog
sound cables with the DVI blade? Will that make
me loose sound quality?

Well with a set top box it is hard to calibrate. I used a test pattern on HDNET. I think it plays Tuesdays at 3:00 am

This is true... I don't get HDNET. I get INHD. I have heard that Saturday mornings (early) they run patterns, but I can't find it on the 'Guide'. Hmmm...

Probably gonna come down to 'eye-balling' it. :o

shane

were you charged per input? if you do not mind sharing what was your cost?

I am at almost 500hr now and think a cal may be in order. But then again I plan to convert to all HDMI and one input soon so ?

My price covered all the TV's inputs I needed and was around 10% of the TV's price. I can't be more specific cus it's against da rules! :D

You'll be looking to spend a couple hundred a year after the original cal to adjust as the panel ages. Plus your gear will most likely change ;)

I would try and use a test pattern as a starting point. I read that HDNET, INHD, ABC HD, ESPN HD, HBO HD all have a test pattern running at least once a month. But I am only able to find:

"HDNET Test Pattern" on DirecTV it plays every other Tuesday at 3:00am PST

I think the INDH one is called "INHD Tuneup test" or "Bars & Tone"

Looking for more information




This is true... I don't get HDNET. I get INHD. I have heard that Saturday mornings (early) they run patterns, but I can't find it on the 'Guide'. Hmmm...

Probably gonna come down to 'eye-balling' it. :o

shane

Is there any quality loss in the adapter to plug in the analog
sound cables with the DVI blade? Will that make
me loose sound quality?
I'm sorry but I don't understand your question. :)

Are you using the monitor's audio amplifier? What adapter are you referring to and are you concerned about losing quality as compared to what?

Maybe (?) the short answer would be that using digital/optical audio inputs will provide higher quality audio than using analog audio...

I was disappointed to find some odd behavior after getting my 8UK mounted yesterday. When I plugged in an s-video cable into the display (nothing connected on the other end), it disabled the composite input while I was playing a composite source. Any way to have both enabled and just give one priority over the other? My receiver does not upconvert composite to s-video so I was planning on having both lines connected at the same time.

Sorry if my question wasn't worded right. What I would like to know has to do wit the single little black audio input on the DVI blade. The only way Id be able to connect my left and right analog audio cables into it would to be an adaptor. Since I would be using an adaptor to send to sound cables into one would that result in quality loss?

I was disappointed to find some odd behavior after getting my 8UK mounted yesterday. When I plugged in an s-video cable into the display (nothing connected on the other end), it disabled the composite input while I was playing a composite source. Any way to have both enabled and just give one priority over the other? My receiver does not upconvert composite to s-video so I was planning on having both lines connected at the same time.

Sorry, you can only use one or the other, they are a shared input. The S-Vid is primary over the composite conn also.

Ok, this is what you need to know.

The DVI blade has a mini headphone jack on it for stereo audio into the monitor. This would only be used if you have speakers connected directly to the monitor.

I do not think a RCA to mini headphone will give a loss in quality, but a pure digital connection to a AV reciever would be way better


Sorry if my question wasn't worded right. What I would like to know has to do wit the single little black audio input on the DVI blade. The only way Id be able to connect my left and right analog audio cables into it would to be an adaptor. Since I would be using an adaptor to send to sound cables into one would that result in quality loss?

Yes I have speakers connected directly to the 8UK. So I wil have no quality loss?

I do not see how it would be bad with good quality cables. With the DVI card i do not think you have another choice.

If you use the HDMI card you could pass digital audio/video directly to the unit.

Yes I have speakers connected directly to the 8UK. So I wil have no quality loss?

Yes I have speakers connected directly to the 8UK. So I wil have no quality loss?
The "quality" loss you do have is due to using the monitor's amplifier and optional speakers as compared to outputting a digital audio signal into an A/V receiver and a Dolby digital 5.1 or 7.1 speaker system. That's assuming, of course, that your equipment has

Your concern over quality loss by using a RCA to mini-plug adapter shouldn't really be of concern however. But the quality of your analog audio reproduction (IMHO) leaves MUCH to be desired as compared to using a digital audio system. I'm guessing that there must be a logical reason for why you're not using an A/V receiver and a digital audio connection? I can't imagine what that reason would be, but in any case --- the answer to your qusetion regarding whether there would be quality loss resulting from using an adapter is: "Negligible. If any." :)

I do not see how it would be bad with good quality cables. With the DVI card i do not think you have another choice.

If you use the HDMI card you could pass digital audio/video directly to the unit.
Hey there 66,

I know you didn't endorse Oliver's particular audio setup, but did you ever check out the specs fot the Panny monitor's amplifier? What kind of audio setup are you using? :)

Inputting audio into the monitor's built-in amp results in sub-standard audio... But, that's only my opinion... Maybe I'm wrong, but it seems to me that even an extremely (bargain-basement-type) inexpensive audio/video receiver and 5.1 speakers would dramatically outperform the Panny amp with the two Panny speakers? I've read (and have to agree with) statements to the effect that at least HALF of the pleasure and enjoyment of the audio/visual experience is attributable to the audio part. So, after spending several thousand dollars for one of the best HD monitors available, I really cannot understand why someone would choose to use the Panny monitor's audio components. Of course, as I said, I can imagine that there must be some reason --- but I can't think of what it would be. :confused: The cost of just the optional Panasonic speakers is such that you could get a cheap Dolby stereo system and speakers for about the same amount that the Panny speakers cost.

Yet, as "they" say: YMMV. :D

...The cost of just the optional Panasonic speakers is such that you could get a cheap Dolby stereo system and speakers for about the same amount....
For just a bit more, you could be the top rated Onkyo HTIB setup that delivers 100 watts per channel to the 7 supplied speakers, along with a decent subwoofer. Agreed that it's convenient to just listen to TV through the optional speakers without turning on multiple pieces of equipment, but you could probably do this via the supplied remote of your cable box. Look into this system, and do a price check via Google or head to J&R to check the pricing. I should add that you can also play your CDs through your DVD player, if you don't have a separate CD player, and the receiver of the Onkyo will translate them into surround sound that can really add some dimension to the music. That way you're doubling the utility of the unit!

Hey TechoFobe,

I was trying to answer Olivers question related to using speakers connected to the monitor. I would not recommend this, but think if I was to do it I would try to go pure digital (HDMI). I know nothing about the monitors audio specs.

I am with you on using a full audio system with this monitor,

My Audio setup:

Rotel RSP-1068 pre amp connected to a Rotel RMB-1075 five channel amp. I have B&W DM603 front speakers and a LCR600 center with DM602 rears. I have My components all connected using optical audio. This setup has amazing sound quality.

My Video setup:

Oppo DVD(DVI) and DTIVO HR10-250(DVI). Soon I will change the DTIVO to be connected via (HDMI) when the card arrives. My XBOX 360 is connected via VGA which is the best option currently available for it. The XBOX 360 VGA connection even runs in the monitors native resolution (1,366 x 768)

I call all this stuff my home theater - I can say I look forward to going home and being amazed daily.


Hey there 66,

I know you didn't endorse Oliver's particular audio setup, but did you ever check out the specs fot the Panny monitor's amplifier? What kind of audio setup are you using? :)

Inputting audio into the monitor's built-in amp results in sub-standard audio... But, that's only my opinion... Maybe I'm wrong, but it seems to me that even an extremely (bargain-basement-type) inexpensive audio/video receiver and 5.1 speakers would dramatically outperform the Panny amp with the two Panny speakers? I've read (and have to agree with) statements to the effect that at least HALF of the pleasure and enjoyment of the audio/visual experience is attributable to the audio part. So, after spending several thousand dollars for one of the best HD monitors available, I really cannot understand why someone would choose to use the Panny monitor's audio components. Of course, as I said, I can imagine that there must be some reason --- but I can't think of what it would be. :confused: The cost of just the optional Panasonic speakers is such that you could get a cheap Dolby stereo system and speakers for about the same amount that the Panny speakers cost.

Yet, as "they" say: YMMV. :D

I plan on using the speaker outputs from the monitor to feed a couple very small speakers that I have...

The only reason I'll be doing this is for casual viewing... news, stupid TV shows... etc., where there is absolutely no reason to crank-up the sound nor have it be anything closely resembling Hi-Fi.

For anything 'serious' (HBO, Battlestar Galactica, etc) or DVD's, I feed the signal through my receiver and 5.1 system.

BTW... since I don't have it yet, I assume the HDMI blade will accept the audio signal from the Comcrap STB.

shane

As long as the STB works to HDMI spec and does the HDCP handshake with the monitors HDMI card it should pass audio.

I plan on using the speaker outputs from the monitor to feed a couple very small speakers that I have...

The only reason I'll be doing this is for casual viewing... news, stupid TV shows... etc., where there is absolutely no reason to crank-up the sound nor have it be anything closely resembling Hi-Fi.

For anything 'serious' (HBO, Battlestar Galactica, etc) or DVD's, I feed the signal through my receiver and 5.1 system.

BTW... since I don't have it yet, I assume the HDMI blade will accept the audio signal from the Comcrap STB.

shane

As long as the STB works to HDMI spec and does the HDCP handshake with the monitors HDMI card it should pass audio.


Yes. With the Pio plasma HDMI input the STB worked as it was supposed to. I'll assume it'll also work with the Panny. :D

Hi Guys,

First off, great forum. Been reading intently for two days now.

Secondly... My 8Uk is being delivered on Monday and I was hoping you could provide me with a little info...

My setup will be:

Comcast Digital cable w/ the HD DVR
Kenwood surround sound
Piece of crap DVD player (w/ S-Video connection). I'm getting a new one once HD-DVD or Blue Ray rises to the top and the prices drop a little.

My main concern is with the break-in period. I have 2 little kids and a wife that have no idea how to properly break in the monitor, so no matter what I tell them to do I can't be sure it will be done while I'm at work. They will be watching a lot of SD 4:3 programming and an occasional DVD.

I've read how to properly break in the monitor if I could totally control what was being displayed, but I don't have that luxury.

I don't care how ugly the picture is for the break in period, I just want to "set it and forget it" until I hit 200 hrs or so and hope for the best after that.

What are the best settings to use to ensure that it gets broken in as best it can undrer these circumstances?

Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike.

I would do one or both of these:

Set the monitor to an aspect ratio that fills the screen for SD content(non HD Channels, DVD), a zoom/stretch mode

Set the STB to output its content in aspect ratio that fills the screen.

As long as the image fills the screen for the first 100 hours you should be O.K. - I was able to force this with my STB by setting it to FULL mode and not PANEL, This forces a zoom/stretch on non HD channels. My STB is a DTV unit so I am not sure this option is available on your config - Oh, one more thing, try not to watch HD channels that have the bars on the side (HD Lite), IE: ESPN HD and day time TV on the HD network channels.

BTW - Congrats, this monitor is the bomb

Hi Guys,

First off, great forum. Been reading intently for two days now.

Secondly... My 8Uk is being delivered on Monday and I was hoping you could provide me with a little info...

My setup will be:

Comcast Digital cable w/ the HD DVR
Kenwood surround sound
Piece of crap DVD player (w/ S-Video connection). I'm getting a new one once HD-DVD or Blue Ray rises to the top and the prices drop a little.

My main concern is with the break-in period. I have 2 little kids and a wife that have no idea how to properly break in the monitor, so no matter what I tell them to do I can't be sure it will be done while I'm at work. They will be watching a lot of SD 4:3 programming and an occasional DVD.

I've read how to properly break in the monitor if I could totally control what was being displayed, but I don't have that luxury.

I don't care how ugly the picture is for the break in period, I just want to "set it and forget it" until I hit 200 hrs or so and hope for the best after that.

What are the best settings to use to ensure that it gets broken in as best it can undrer these circumstances?

Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike.

My sisters neighbor is selling his 50PHD8UK (he's getting a 60 inch). He purchased it new in November 2005 (manufacture date is Oct. 2005). He's asking $1300, but it does not have a stand as he had it mounted on his wall. So I would need to buy a stand ($150) as I do not want to wall mount it. Also, it only has the component blade so I would need to find an HDMI blade for it.
Is it still a good deal with having to buy all the extras(will cost me $1600 to $1700 in the end).
I currently have a two month old 42 inch Vizio Plasma (cost me $1600) that is really nice. Will I see a big video quality improvement with the Panasonic??
Just wanting to get some feedback from other owners.
Thanks in advance.

Hey TechoFobe, I was trying to answer Olivers questionGotcha! Kinda figured as much... :)
I call all this stuff my home theater - I can say I look forward to going home and being amazed daily."Sounds good to me!!! Isn't life in the world of HD and Dolby Digital Sound grand? :D

I would do one or both of these:

Set the monitor to an aspect ratio that fills the screen for SD content(non HD Channels, DVD), a zoom/stretch mode

Set the STB to output its content in aspect ratio that fills the screen.

As long as the image fills the screen for the first 100 hours you should be O.K. - I was able to force this with my STB by setting it to FULL mode and not PANEL, This forces a zoom/stretch on non HD channels. My STB is a DTV unit so I am not sure this option is available on your config - Oh, one more thing, try not to watch HD channels that have the bars on the side (HD Lite), IE: ESPN HD and day time TV on the HD network channels.

BTW - Congrats, this monitor is the bomb
Sounds like very good advice to me 66...

Only thing I would add is that it is probably wise NOT to pause his Comcast DVR for extended periods. Don't hit pause and forget about it... Not sure how to "enforce" this rule other than some serious "Corrections" (ala The Shining). :D

Probably not of great concern but something ELSE for MikeSaz to worry about while he's at work?

I might be all wrong but --- I get the strong impression that the TH-50PHD8UK is much more bullet proof than prior incarnations?

My sisters neighbor is selling his 50PHD8UK (he's getting a 60 inch). He purchased it new in November 2005 (manufacture date is Oct. 2005). He's asking $1300, but it does not have a stand as he had it mounted on his wall. So I would need to buy a stand ($150) as I do not want to wall mount it. Also, it only has the component blade so I would need to find an HDMI blade for it.
Is it still a good deal with having to buy all the extras(will cost me $1600 to $1700 in the end).
I currently have a two month old 42 inch Vizio Plasma (cost me $1600) that is really nice. Will I see a big video quality improvement with the Panasonic??
Just wanting to get some feedback from other owners.
Thanks in advance.

A new one is at least $3k delivered...if you don't buy it, tell him I will. :D

Yeah, grab the monitor and run. The "extras" you speak of are always extra anyway. This monitor sells as the panel alone.

Runnning component will still have a great picture, many people can't even tell the diff between component and HDMI

I do not know that much about the Vizio 9sold @ costco), but I am sure the PQ on the Panasonic is quite a bit better. Plus 50" is alot bigger

My sisters neighbor is selling his 50PHD8UK (he's getting a 60 inch). He purchased it new in November 2005 (manufacture date is Oct. 2005). He's asking $1300, but it does not have a stand as he had it mounted on his wall. So I would need to buy a stand ($150) as I do not want to wall mount it. Also, it only has the component blade so I would need to find an HDMI blade for it.
Is it still a good deal with having to buy all the extras(will cost me $1600 to $1700 in the end).
I currently have a two month old 42 inch Vizio Plasma (cost me $1600) that is really nice. Will I see a big video quality improvement with the Panasonic??
Just wanting to get some feedback from other owners.
Thanks in advance.

yeah, life is great with HD and Dolby Digital Sound

Gotcha! Kinda figured as much... :)
"Sounds good to me!!! Isn't life in the world of HD and Dolby Digital Sound grand? :D

[...]the Vizio 9sold @ costco), but I am sure the PQ on the Panasonic is quite a bit better. Plus 50" is alot bigger

FYI, the Panasonic is also sold at costco ;)

Sounds like very good advice to me 66...

Only thing I would add is that it is probably wise NOT to pause his Comcast DVR for extended periods. Don't hit pause and forget about it... Not sure how to "enforce" this rule other than some serious "Corrections" (ala The Shining). :D

Probably not of great concern but something ELSE for MikeSaz to worry about while he's at work?

I might be all wrong but --- I get the strong impression that the TH-50PHD8UK is much more bullet proof than prior incarnations?

Thanks for your replies Route66 and TechnoFobe.

I will follow your advice and try to drill 3 simple rules into their heads...

1. Black bars are bad... very bad.
2. Leaving the picture on a menu screen is worse.
3. Pausing a DVD and going out to play will land you in the orphanage where they only have a 19" CRT.

I also plan to do all the right things 24-7 when I am there, so we should get thru the first 100 hrs pretty quickly.

Thanks again for the tips, and I'm sure I'll have more questions for everyone once it's properly broken in and I need to do some tweeking.

Yes with the best warranty available :) 3yr any reason return


FYI, the Panasonic is also sold at costco ;)

I don't think you should worry that much. I've abused the crap out of it after the 100 hours. Played countless raids in World of Warcraft (yes with the 100's of menu items at full burn), pause DVD's all the time, use the PIP (oh noes)....still crisp as new :)

I don't think you should worry that much. I've abused the crap out of it after the 100 hours. Played countless raids in World of Warcraft (yes with the 100's of menu items at full burn), pause DVD's all the time, use the PIP (oh noes)....still crisp as new :)Boofster,

:eek: {Gasp} I remember when you HAD to break-in all new cars... Now when you buy one, you just take off and go. No break-in necessary or required... Is that what you're saying? :)

That's the impression I've been getting from some people for some time now. So, the days of image-retention-hell are behind us? That would be very welcome news if it's true! :cool:

Nono...I still took it through the 100 hour break-in just in case. I'm not that crazy :p I mean we all read the Panasonic whitepaper.

Just saying that after that, let it go. No need to baby it.

BTW: As a first time plasma owner coming from the CRT world, I am still hating the banding that comes through component. A DVD I watched last night started with that New Line Cinema intro logo and holy crap it looked like a GIF file. Seriously thinking of yanking out the component board and buying a DVI/HDMI player. Maybe I'll stick it out till the PS3 comes out. Component is :thumbsdown:

I baby it anyway, even if it can handle it, I still baby it.

there's an old saying, "good things happen to those who baby-treat"

like meow kittie kats :)

I am getting the Panny 50" 8UK with one HDMI blade, so I'll need a switcher for more than one HDMI unit...

I am interested in the Gefen EXT-HDMI-341 3x1 Switcher and wonder if there are any issues with this unit... especially with the Panny monitor.

HDMI equipment thus far:
Pioneer Elite DV-79avi
Comcast Moto 6412 PIII HD Cable STB

Eventually... some type of HD-DVD (or BD).

Any lower-cost alternatives to the Gefen?

TIA!

shane

Shane, for lower cost alternatives for HDMI switches, you can look at Monoprice or Octava. I don't personally use them, but have read some good reviews from fellow AVS members.

Shane, for lower cost alternatives for HDMI switches, you can look at Monoprice or Octava. I don't personally use them, but have read some good reviews from fellow AVS members.

Thanks Mac.

I looked at the Monoprice unit:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=2777&seq=1&format=2&style=

And the Octava:
http://www.octavainc.com/HDMI%20switch%203port.htm

Both look good.
Any reason to get one over the other... Anyone?

Thanks

shane

Anyone know if the hdmi board can be installed on the Panny 8UK (50 inch) with the table stand still connected? I can slide the panel to the edge of a table if needed, but removing it from the stand seems like a pain :(

The PQ on my 8UK continues to amaze me :D This is one awesome set for watching movies. I seldom watch TV (HD or otherwise) any more - it's only movies!

I've been watching movies with the black horizontal bars and no problems so far. I also increased my brightness to around 20 (I had it dialed way down) and reduced sharpness to -2. The picture is so good (compared to anything else I have owned) that I am getting very tempted to get this ISF calibrated just to see what the 'real' potential is!

I was told to wait for 1000 hours before doing any sort of calibration.

I've been researching for months on different HD technologies and thought I settled on DLP. But I don't like the idea of spending a lot of money on a tv and then have to spend a couple of hundred dollars maintaining (bulb) every three years or so. Seems more economical to spend a little more up front and not have to worry about it going bad. Plus you get a better picture. I decided to look into plasmas and seems a lot of people like the 50PHD8UK. I've spent some time reading this thread and it has really piqued my interest in this set. I have the following questions/concerns:

1) maintenance: Does this set need to be professionally calibrated at regular intervals? Can you do adjustments on your own and still get a good picture? Any other type of maintenance work required other than the break in period?
2) stand: If I go with the 8UK, I will likely put it on a stand. Has anyone confirmed that the cheaper TY-ST42PA20 stand will work with this set. This was suggested by Bruzzi.
3) warranty: I was looking at TVAuthority or Visual Apex for this set. Anyone have any experience with these vendors? Also, is the warranty handled directly through Panasonic?
4) connections: Are the standard connections adequate or would you recommend getting the HDMI or DVI blade. I currently have no HDMI player, but will soon.
5) size: Is a 50inch adequate for 12-13ft viewing distance?

I'm sure I'll have more questions, but this is all I have for now. Thanks in advance for the answers. This is a great forum!

forgot to ask:

6) Any idea when the next generation sets are coming out. I read they will have a lower MSRP. I'm looking to getting a tv in a month or two. Any chance the next generation sets will be available by then?

I just added a DVI terminal card and had to remove the stand :(

Anyone know if the hdmi board can be installed on the Panny 8UK (50 inch) with the table stand still connected? I can slide the panel to the edge of a table if needed, but removing it from the stand seems like a pain :(

The PQ on my 8UK continues to amaze me :D This is one awesome set for watching movies. I seldom watch TV (HD or otherwise) any more - it's only movies!

I've been watching movies with the black horizontal bars and no problems so far. I also increased my brightness to around 20 (I had it dialed way down) and reduced sharpness to -2. The picture is so good (compared to anything else I have owned) that I am getting very tempted to get this ISF calibrated just to see what the 'real' potential is!

I was told to wait for 1000 hours before doing any sort of calibration.

you can do adjustments and get a great picture. If you want the best the set can produce then get it ISF calibrated after the first 1000hr

No idea in the stand, I have the other stand and it works great. the TV is very secure

I used Visual Apex and was very happy with the the level of service, no warranty issues yet.

The default connections are great. once you have a HDMI/DVI device you might want to look at the HDMI card for a pure digital connection.

I sit 8-9 ft back and the set is grand, I think if i had 12-13 ft I would want a 65", but then again I would want the 65" anyway :)

I do not know when the new models will be released, but if history repeats you will have a hard time finding one for a few months

Hope this helps, pull the trigger this TV is well worth the cash

I've been researching for months on different HD technologies and thought I settled on DLP. But I don't like the idea of spending a lot of money on a tv and then have to spend a couple of hundred dollars maintaining (bulb) every three years or so. Seems more economical to spend a little more up front and not have to worry about it going bad. Plus you get a better picture. I decided to look into plasmas and seems a lot of people like the 50PHD8UK. I've spent some time reading this thread and it has really piqued my interest in this set. I have the following questions/concerns:

1) maintenance: Does this set need to be professionally calibrated at regular intervals? Can you do adjustments on your own and still get a good picture? Any other type of maintenance work required other than the break in period?
2) stand: If I go with the 8UK, I will likely put it on a stand. Has anyone confirmed that the cheaper TY-ST42PA20 stand will work with this set. This was suggested by Bruzzi.
3) warranty: I was looking at TVAuthority or Visual Apex for this set. Anyone have any experience with these vendors? Also, is the warranty handled directly through Panasonic?
4) connections: Are the standard connections adequate or would you recommend getting the HDMI or DVI blade. I currently have no HDMI player, but will soon.
5) size: Is a 50inch adequate for 12-13ft viewing distance?

I'm sure I'll have more questions, but this is all I have for now. Thanks in advance for the answers. This is a great forum!

Plazman, how would you say the brightness and colors or pop compares to the NEC you own? Is it just as good or is the NEC slightly better?



Anyone know if the hdmi board can be installed on the Panny 8UK (50 inch) with the table stand still connected? I can slide the panel to the edge of a table if needed, but removing it from the stand seems like a pain :(

The PQ on my 8UK continues to amaze me :D This is one awesome set for watching movies. I seldom watch TV (HD or otherwise) any more - it's only movies!

I've been watching movies with the black horizontal bars and no problems so far. I also increased my brightness to around 20 (I had it dialed way down) and reduced sharpness to -2. The picture is so good (compared to anything else I have owned) that I am getting very tempted to get this ISF calibrated just to see what the 'real' potential is!

I was told to wait for 1000 hours before doing any sort of calibration.

forgot to ask:MacG,

You listed six numbered questions but I counted eleven questions altogether. :)

1) Does this set need to be professionally calibrated at regular intervals?

No. It's not required but as with any monitor, it would be "nice".

2) Can you do adjustments on your own and still get a good picture?

Yes. Absolutely... As good as an ISF tech could do? Probably not... unless you're an ISF trained tech. But all-in-all --- my self=performed calibration was quite satisfactory. Probably all the more so since I don't have a clue about how great an ISF calibration actually is. ;)

3) Any other type of maintenance work required other than the break in period?

Yes. Dusting it and cleaning the glass, which should be done most carefully and by following the instructions for wiping the screen as listed in the user's manual. I'd also change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles. :D

4) If I go with the 8UK, I will likely put it on a stand. Has anyone confirmed that the cheaper TY-ST42PA20 stand will work with this set. This was suggested by Bruzzi.

Don't know, but Bruzzi is one very smart hombre and incredibly helpful! His word is good with me... :)

5) I was looking at TVAuthority or Visual Apex for this set. Anyone have any experience with these vendors?

Yes. Both are good choices. They're both forum sponsors... Both reputable... Both come very highly recommended!

6) Is the warranty handled directly through Panasonic?

Yes unless, maybe, you buy from some place like Costco? Or, use an after-market warranty service?

7) Are the standard connections adequate

Yes, if you don't need other connectivity such as HDMI or DVI or anything the numerous other terminal boards offer... That's why they are called optional? :p

8) Would you recommend getting the HDMI or DVI blade. I currently have no HDMI player, but will soon.

Get the HDMI terminal board! Or, maybe the DVI board... TY-FB8HM if you can find one in stock and at a "reasonable" price (not double the MSRP). If you look at previous posts this subject has already been excessively debated.

9) Is a 50inch adequate for 12-13ft viewing distance?

This subject definitely qualifies for the "YMMV" answer. It is absolutely adequate (as in: satisfactory or acceptable)... Many people think bigger is always better, so they would probably disagree that 50" is adequate. Or check this link out, it might help? Also check out the difference in prices between the 50 & 65 inchers...

http://www.myhometheater.homestead.com/viewingdistancecalculator.html

10) Any idea when the next generation sets are coming out.

No. Anyone claiming to know on a public forum would be suspect at best? Pre-releasing such information is frowned upon by MOST manufacturers & corporations...

11) I read they will have a lower MSRP. I'm looking to getting a tv in a month or two. Any chance the next generation sets will be available by then?

Yes there is a chance. :D

12) Question not asked: Is it worth three grand?

Before deciding to buy it, I wasn't totally sure that I'd think that my TH-50OHD8UK was a good deal after I got it. I am now POSITIVE that it was a great deal! I can't imagine not loving a monitor that's this nice... My advice: BUY IT.

Can someone answer some basic questions?

1. Does the 8UK definitely have a superior processor to the 60U or 500U?

2. Does it really matter which HDMI blade you get - the 7 or 8?

3. Is this a 720p set? Can it display 1080i or 1080p?

Thanks.

Plazman, how would you say the brightness and colors or pop compares to the NEC you own? Is it just as good or is the NEC slightly better?
Come on Plaz, you had all weekend to play with your two sets. :)

My question is, which one displays 1080i from the XA-1 better??

Some of us need to know. What would it take to get a full blow comparison? Maybe cash? or a HD-DVD Movie? You must have a weekness...
-Mike

Plazman, how would you say the brightness and colors or pop compares to the NEC you own? Is it just as good or is the NEC slightly better?

My experience so far is that the colors have less 'pop' but are more refined overall than on the XR5. It's more like what you see in a movie theatre.

Can't tell if the picture is less bright. But the more subdued colors do make it appear less bright to me.

Overall, based on my viewing I do prefer the 8UK over the NEC. But, others could just as easily prefer the image of the NEC. Besides the picture quality, the NEC does have 2 hdmi inputs which are very useful and you get a longer warranty. So you need to balance that as well.

I haven't spent a lot of time viewing a Fujitsu, but apart of that I've looked at many top rated plasmas and the panny 8UK is currently my favorite! I'd buy it, if I had to do it all over again :D

2. Does it really matter which HDMI blade you get - the 7 or 8?
NO COMMENT! See several messages out of the 1500 or so (too many?) in this thread --- debating (at length) this very question. :)

Thank you all for the responses. Following this thread just makes me want the 8UK even more.

Come on Plaz, you had all weekend to play with your two sets. :)

My question is, which one displays 1080i from the XA-1 better??

Some of us need to know. What would it take to get a full blow comparison? Maybe cash? or a HD-DVD Movie? You must have a weekness...
-Mike

OK. I'm sorry to admit it, but after a week or so, I ended up selling the XR5. Sort of getting the home ready for a 58 or 65 inch sometime down the road.

I spent several hours going back and forth between the XR5 and the 8UK. Initially, it was to decide which one would stay in the living room.

Here was what I found and made my decision on!

1. 1080i HD DVD - both sets are excellent! If I didn't have them side-by-side it would be impossible to see any difference. I am assuming with some tweaking, both sets would probably look the same. I did notice that on some of the title screens (start and end credits) in a totally dark room I was experiencing minor IR with the XR5. The 8UK had none. I also found that tweaking the picture on the 8Uk is easier for me than the NEC So slight edge to 8UK.

2. 1080i SD DVD - Since I don't have an hdmi input board on the 8UK (so strike against the 8UK since the NEC has 2), only the NEC supports upconverting. I noticed that upconverted 1080i looks best on the NEC! However, even with 480p the 8UK is no slouch. 1080i on the NEC is slightly better than 480p on the 8UK. Advantage to NEC

3. 480p SD DVD - Using my Denon 1920 over component for both, the 8UK was better. The picture oveall had less grain on the 8UK. I tried adjusting the contrast and brightness on the NEC, to reduce the graininess, but then I would start losing details in dark areas. Advantage 8UK. But if you do have the XA-1, there is no reason to send anything but 1080i to either display (JMHO).

4. HD TV - 720p/1080i - This was my test with the STB. I was expecting the NEC with it's brighter colors to really outshine the 8UK. However, on channels like Discovery HD and INHD1 and INHD2, I ended up preferring the 'movie-like' colors and depth of the 8UK. When the channel was showing regular 480i content in a 1080i/720p channel the NEC looked a little nicer. I asked my wife to judge as well and she too felt the colors of the 8UK looked a little more refined. I won't say one set was better than the other. I guess it depends on your mood and lighting. In a brighter room the NEC may be better. The last time I did a comparison between these two sets was during the day and I liked the NEC, this time it was at night and I preferred the 8UK.

5. Regular Cable TV channels - 480i - In general after viewing any sort of HD content or even good DVD, 480i TV just plain sucks! However, we both preferred the 8UK. Both the 8UK and the XR5 showed graininess, bad sources looked bad on both, whereas the better ones - mainly the movie channels looked better on the 8UK in terms of overall smoothness, better contrast and life-like colors (especially skin tones). Advantage 8UK.

So we decided to keep the 8UK in the living room and move the XR5 to the bedroom. While, my own rating between the NEC and 8UK were very close, my wife preferred the 8UK by a much larger margin. My assumption is that she likes the all black, thin bezel look of the 8UK over the NEC (I prefer the aesthetics of the XR5) - so WAF tilted the balance so much so that she recommended that we sell the XR5 and get a matching Panny at a later date!

Well, before anyone thinks that WAF is based on performance alone I need to point out that I had to get rid of my beloved Definitive speakers and NAD T753 receiver to get a Bose Lifestyle 48 system :eek:

Overall, I'm very impressed with how refined the overall picture quality on the 8UK is!

In the hands of a professional I see no reason why the NEC would not be the superior display - except I am no professional. Just obsessed ;)

1. I do not know, but i think I read it was the same glass

2. No - but you can draw your own conclusion

3. This set will do 480p, 720p, 1080i over digital with the addition of 480i over component



Can someone answer some basic questions?

1. Does the 8UK definitely have a superior processor to the 60U or 500U?

2. Does it really matter which HDMI blade you get - the 7 or 8?

3. Is this a 720p set? Can it display 1080i or 1080p?

Thanks.

Plazman,

What interface are you watching DVD's with (DVI? HDMI? Component?) Also, what are your PQ settings for that input?

Anyone know if the hdmi board can be installed on the Panny 8UK (50 inch) with the table stand still connected? I can slide the panel to the edge of a table if needed, but removing it from the stand seems like a pain :(

The PQ on my 8UK continues to amaze me :D This is one awesome set for watching movies. I seldom watch TV (HD or otherwise) any more - it's only movies!

I've been watching movies with the black horizontal bars and no problems so far. I also increased my brightness to around 20 (I had it dialed way down) and reduced sharpness to -2. The picture is so good (compared to anything else I have owned) that I am getting very tempted to get this ISF calibrated just to see what the 'real' potential is!

I was told to wait for 1000 hours before doing any sort of calibration.

Plazman,

What interface are you watching DVD's with (DVI? HDMI? Component?) Also, what are your settings for that?

Currently, component (VGA). I'll try to note down my settings when I am home...

Plaz, did I mention...you rock!!
Thanks for the review.
-Mike
.
.
.
.
.
If I forgot to mention, you rock!!

Given the choice for the better input for a DVD player, which would you pick... and why?

My STB is going to feed the HDMI board, and I have both BNC and 15-pin adapters, so I can use either. Just wondering if there is a discernable difference.

Thanks

shane

From what i understand the VGA 15 pin has more seperation so it is better. I use this from my XBOX 360 and it looks great

Given the choice for the better input for a DVD player, which would you pick... and why?

My STB is going to feed the HDMI board, and I have both BNC and 15-pin adapters, so I can use either. Just wondering if there is a discernable difference.

Thanks

shane

I'll comment on my experience:


1) maintenance: Does this set need to be professionally calibrated at regular intervals? Can you do adjustments on your own and still get a good picture? Any other type of maintenance work required other than the break in period?

-- Calibrate once and put the remote down :) Yes, you can tweak just about anything.

2) stand: If I go with the 8UK, I will likely put it on a stand. Has anyone confirmed that the cheaper TY-ST42PA20 stand will work with this set. This was suggested by Bruzzi.

-- I got the TY-ST08K stand. It's the round oval looking one. Works great and looks nice and solid on my little glass table. I went for the minimalist look.

3) warranty: I was looking at TVAuthority or Visual Apex for this set. Anyone have any experience with these vendors? Also, is the warranty handled directly
through Panasonic?

-- Got mine through NewEgg. They shipped same day and it got to my house in exactly 5 workdays in pristine condition (they use www.aitworldwide.com)

4) connections: Are the standard connections adequate or would you recommend getting the HDMI or DVI blade. I currently have no HDMI player, but will soon.

-- I picked up the DVI right away for the empty slot (OTA/QAM tuner) and have since replaced the second slot (composite) with another DVI (for PC). VGA is useless imo and I wish I could yank it out. Plan is to swap out component with HDMI once I get a DVD player with that or the PS3/BR/HDDVD.

5) size: Is a 50inch adequate for 12-13ft viewing distance?

-- This is probably not a scientific answer. Depends how good your eyes are, age, etc :p I actually pushed my couch back a few feet because it was too big.

6) Any idea when the next generation sets are coming out. I read they will have a lower MSRP. I'm looking to getting a tv in a month or two. Any chance the next generation sets will be available by then?

-- If we knew that, we would never buy anything sitting around waiting for the next one to come out right? The 8UK is good and it's good now. It handles the formats we have just fine. The only thing I can see possibly upgraded is the resolution. So the answer is no, we don't know what is coming up.

I don't know about HDMI blade installation, but DVI blade install here.

JerryNY's post: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=608475&highlight=hdmi+blade He can install it without taking off the stand.

RGB input = analog
DVI/HDMI input = digital

Is there any doubt what to use?

I tried my PC on the VGA port and it looked terrible. Then I did DVI and it was :o

Thanks Plazman!

Your review was excellent, and as I expected, both are great sets. I have however taken the NEC off my list. Just trying to decide on the 50 8uk or 58 60/600u.

RGB input = analog
DVI/HDMI input = digital

Is there any doubt what to use?

I tried my PC on the VGA port and it looked terrible. Then I did DVI and it was :o
The VGA can be deadly powerful.

There is something you are doing wrong with your setup. Check out some of the pics I've posted in this thread and other threads.

3. This set will do 480p, 720p, 1080i over digital with the addition of 480i over componentWhen you say "over digital", you mean via HDMI only?

When you say "over digital", you mean via HDMI only?
Honey,

Component also supports: 480i, 480p, 575i, 575p, 720p, & 1080i


the 8UK will make you happy, I assure you.

Thanks Plazman!

Your review was excellent, and as I expected, both are great sets. I have however taken the NEC off my list. Just trying to decide on the 50 8uk or 58 60/600u.Same here. I'm finding the wait for the 58" 60/600u is getting harder and harder every day. Shouldn't it be the other way around? I wonder if I'll be able to hold out...

OK, I guess I could have done it with the stand on if I had a 90 degree screw driver and alot of patience

I don't know about HDMI blade installation, but DVI blade install here.

JerryNY's post: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=608475&highlight=hdmi+blade He can install it without taking off the stand.

I ment the DVI blade will not do 480i, I think the HDMI blade is the same ?

As far as I know the component ports will allow all the formats even the PAL ones 575i, 575p

When you say "over digital", you mean via HDMI only?

I ment the DVI blade will not do 480i, I think the HDMI blade is the same ?

As far as I know the component ports will allow all the formats even the PAL ones 575i, 575p

The HDMI blade does 480i.

- Rich

I was told that some of these sets are assembled in Mexico, and some in Japan. I was told I should definitely get a set made in Japan. If this is true, that they're manufactured in each location, and available for sale in the US, I would naturally prefer the Japanese build. So I'm asking, is this accurate?

The HDMI blade does 480i.

- Rich

Ok... now I'm confused. :confused:

Someone earlier on this or another thread said that the HDMI did NOT do 480i. I thought it strange, but I accepted it.

So... are you sure? ;)
How do you know?

shane

Mine says "assembled in mexico" on the back. I doubt there is any way to know what you get as it is not labeled on the outside of the box. Mine was apparently shipped straight from Panasonic USA to the distributor. Whoever sells it to you will have no way of knowing either as they only dispatch an order to a warehouse that gets batches of these at a time. There shouldn't be any issues with either assembly. Don't sweat it that much.

I was told that some of these sets are assembled in Mexico, and some in Japan. I was told I should definitely get a set made in Japan. If this is true, that they're manufactured in each location, and available for sale in the US, I would naturally prefer the Japanese build. So I'm asking, is this accurate?

The VGA can be deadly powerful.

There is something you are doing wrong with your setup. Check out some of the pics I've posted in this thread and other threads.

Can you elaborate on that? I am finding the VGA port completely useless and wonder why it is even on the unit. The 1366x768 resolution is not supported by anything so you can tip-toe around with 1360 or 1368 but you're still in the analog world so you'll get stretched fonts no matter what. Then you have to adjust overscan, vertical alignment, etc.

DVI on the other hand is like a Plug and Play LCD monitor; Windows detects it and makes full use of the whole screen to the very last dot and at the correct resolution from the moment you plug it in. No adjustment needed. 100% digital.
It even found the name of the screen and assigned a proper color profile.

I could sit back and reply to emails if I wanted, the text was that crisp. Everything else that needed scaling from different resolutions (games/dvd's/etc), also looked great because Windows took care of the resizing to the proper resolution.

Can you elaborate on that? I am finding the VGA port completely useless and wonder why it is even on the unit. The 1366x768 resolution is not supported by anything so you can tip-toe around with 1360 or 1368 but you're still in the analog world so you'll get stretched fonts no matter what. Then you have to adjust overscan, vertical alignment, etc.

DVI on the other hand is like a Plug and Play LCD monitor; Windows detects it and makes full use of the whole screen to the very last dot and at the correct resolution from the moment you plug it in. No adjustment needed. 100% digital.
It even found the name of the screen and assigned a proper color profile.

I could sit back and reply to emails if I wanted, the text was that crisp. Everything else that needed scaling from different resolutions (games/dvd's/etc), also looked great because Windows took care of the resizing to the proper resolution.

he VGA input can be used as a regular component input. I use mine with my HD DVD player and the picture is stunning! For some reason I prefer the component connection via the VGA input (for PQ) than the regular BNC component - not sure why this is the case, but the colors appear to look smoother to me.

Ok... now I'm confused. :confused:

Someone earlier on this or another thread said that the HDMI did NOT do 480i. I thought it strange, but I accepted it.

So... are you sure? ;)
How do you know?

shane

Shane: I don't know whether or not the HDMI BLADE is capable of rendering a 480i signal, what I do know is that the 8UK series of PANELS will NOT render 480i through HDMI. You can quickly confirm this with your own 8UK panel if you try to connect a 480i source to the panel through HDMI.

I believe that RichB may own a 7UY panel (the prior year's model). Why Panasonic would eliminate 480i support over HDMI in the 8UK series, I can't say for sure. I suspect that they assumed that anyone focused on ouputting a digital signal to the panel would not be interested in 480i (a mistake, IMHO).

OK, I guess I could have done it with the stand on if I had a 90 degree screw driver and alot of patiencePatience my a$$. :D

Yeah, that "IF" word is a real doozey... :p

Maybe (probably?) if I would've simply tried a little harder I could have changed my TH-50PHD8UK's terminal boards while the monitor was still on the pedestal mount. I tried to remove the board's mounting screws while the monitor was laying down on a pad but with the mount still attached --- and it was immediately clear to me that even "IF' it were possible, it would tax my abilities and patience to the max. And it really didn't seem worth exerting that much effort (I am very lazy) nor worth taking even a minimal chance of damaging the unit --- in order to save the effort required to simply remove the pedestal mount.

Removal of the mount is quite EASY. The subsequent removal and re-installation of the terminal boards was far EASIER too IMHO... Seemed like an obvious choice to me... So I removed the mount before swapping my 8UK's terminal board. :cool:

Someone should time how long it takes to do it both ways with a stop watch? Maybe get into Guiness' record book? ;)

While I was laboriously attending the "School of Hard Knocks" I majored in TheEasiestWay. After jumping through hoops while fighting to find the easiest way to do anything, I eventually learned the Hard Way that it can often end up being more difficult in the long run to do it the "easiest" way... I would have written a thesis on the subject, except I couldn't figure out how to easily write it. :D

Conclusion? Beats me... Oh, yeah! Conclusion: "If it feels good, do it".

Shane: I don't know whether or not the HDMI BLADE is capable of rendering a 480i signal, what I do know is that the 8UK series of PANELS will NOT render 480i through HDMI. You can quickly confirm this with your own 8UK panel if you try to connect a 480i source to the panel through HDMI.

I believe that RichB may own a 7UY panel (the prior year's model). Why Panasonic would eliminate 480i support over HDMI in the 8UK series, I can't say for sure. I suspect that they assumed that anyone focused on ouputting a digital signal to the panel would not be interested in 480i (a mistake, IMHO).

I don't think it will ever render 480i from any input. It will only render 768p (AFAIK).

If I were using a good DVD player I'd let the player do the scaling. I have never owned a plasma (panny or otherwise) where a 480i DVD input looked better than 480p for the combination of DVD players tried - Pioneer Elite 59Avi,Oppo, Denon 1920, Toshiba XA-1. The only exceptions were my Bose LS 48 and a Sony (I don't recall the model, it cost me around $200 at the Sonystyle store) where 480i over component looked better than 480p. Even then it was very close and only on certain movies I could tell the difference (mainly extra graininess)

EDIT: 480i over hdmi is not supported. Here is what the manual says.

Standards compliance HDMI ver.1.1
Compatible video 525/60p, 625/50p, 750/60p, 750/50p, 1125/60i,
format 1125/50i, VGA60

So we agree, it could be done but why go throught the exercise...

Patience my a$$. :D

Yeah, that "IF" word is a real doozey... :p

Maybe (probably?) if I would've simply tried a little harder I could have changed my TH-50PHD8UK's terminal boards while the monitor was still on the pedestal mount. I tried to remove the board's mounting screws while the monitor was laying down on a pad but with the mount still attached --- and it was immediately clear to me that even "IF' it were possible, it would tax my abilities and patience to the max. And it really didn't seem worth exerting that much effort (I am very lazy) nor worth taking even a minimal chance of damaging the unit --- in order to save the effort required to simply remove the pedestal mount.

Removal of the mount is quite EASY. The subsequent removal and re-installation of the terminal boards was far EASIER too IMHO... Seemed like an obvious choice to me... So I removed the mount before swapping my 8UK's terminal board. :cool:

Someone should time how long it takes to do it both ways with a stop watch? Maybe get into Guiness' record book? ;)

While I was laboriously attending the "School of Hard Knocks" I majored in TheEasiestWay. After jumping through hoops while fighting to find the easiest way to do anything, I eventually learned the Hard Way that it can often end up being more difficult in the long run to do it the "easiest" way... I would have written a thesis on the subject, except I couldn't figure out how to easily write it. :D

Conclusion? Beats me... Oh, yeah! Conclusion: "If it feels good, do it".

So we agree, it could be done buy why go throught the exercise...Exactly. :D

he VGA input can be used as a regular component input. I use mine with my HD DVD player and the picture is stunning! For some reason I prefer the component connection via the VGA input (for PQ) than the regular BNC component - not sure why this is the case, but the colors appear to look smoother to me.

plazman-
Interesting -- I like the idea of one vs three cables. Now I'm wondering if I should even mess around with the DVI blade for my cable HD box when I could use the two component inputs for both DVD and HD-box? Especially since DVI seems a little quirky with this display.

plazman-
Interesting -- I like the idea of one vs three cables. Now I'm wondering if I should even mess around with the DVI blade for my cable HD box when I could use the two component inputs for both DVD and HD? Especially since DVI seems a little quirky with this display.

You need to make sure the DVI is HDCP compliant. In general HDMI/DVI gives you greater gradation so HD sporting events and other colorful events should look slightly better than on component.

The VGA/component input with my HD DVD player is totally movie theatre quality (IMHO) :)

You need to make sure the DVI is HDCP compliant. In general HDMI/DVI gives you greater gradation so HD sporting events and other colorful events should look slightly better than on component.

The VGA/component input with my HD DVD player is totally movie theatre quality (IMHO) :)

I bought my DVI cable from monoprice (PID:2687) and it says it's compliant. For MSRP of $3.31 its a no brainer to get a VGA to Component cable (PID:2170). Thx.

DVI works great. If you have a digital source you are best off using a digital connection DVI/HDMI just make sure you source device is HDCP compliant

I have 2 DVI boards and they both work without a hitch

plazman-
Interesting -- I like the idea of one vs three cables. Now I'm wondering if I should even mess around with the DVI blade for my cable HD box when I could use the two component inputs for both DVD and HD-box? Especially since DVI seems a little quirky with this display.

Ok... I get it. I can not send an 480i signal over the HDMI board to the 8UK. :(

So... What would folks recommend I do?
I'm sure the obvious answer is to try them and see for myself, but just for argument sake:

DVD Player: Pio Elite DV-79avi.
Since it won't upconvert over component, my only choice is to send 480p to a component (PC or BNC) input...
or... to upconvert over HDMI (to 720p or 1080i).

Any guesses here? Anyone here (with a 50' 8UK) have the Pio 79avi?

Cheers

shane

Do what this DVD drive is meant to do

from specs:
"Digital Direct Pixel Drive– Converts DVD-Video up to High Definition resolutions (1080 i or 720 P) through the HDMI output"

I would start with 720p and then try 1080i over HDMI, if you can not locate a HDMI card the DVI board should work fine too with a HDNI - DVI-D cable

The upscaler on your DVD drive is most likely the better of the two anyway


Ok... I get it. I can not send an 480i signal over the HDMI board to the 8UK. :(

So... What would folks recommend I do?
I'm sure the obvious answer is to try them and see for myself, but just for argument sake:

DVD Player: Pio Elite DV-79avi.
Since it won't upconvert over component, my only choice is to send 480p to a component (PC or BNC) input...
or... to upconvert over HDMI (to 720p or 1080i).

Any guesses here? Anyone here (with a 50' 8UK) have the Pio 79avi?

Cheers

shane

Do what this DVD drive is meant to do

from specs:
"Digital Direct Pixel Drive– Converts DVD-Video up to High Definition resolutions (1080 i or 720 P) through the HDMI output"

I would start with 720p and then try 1080i over HDMI, if you can not locate a HDMI card the DVI board should work fine too with a HDNI - DVI-D cable

The upscaler on your DVD drive is most likely the better of the two anyway
And that's the crux of the issue: Which one has the better scalar. I would assume the DVD player, but all the talk over on the NEC thread lead me to believe that some panels (perhaps not this one) have better scalars than even some stand-alone units (let alone most DVD players).

I have a HDMI board on order and would rather not buy two... and the other alternative is to get a switcher. The MonoPrice one (5x1) looks like it might be the ticket as I eventually will get some type of 'HD'-DVD player and will then need at least 3 inputs.

Anyone else have an opinion on the 480p vs 720p-1080i situation I find myself in? :)

All in all... it's not like it's a stressful decision. ;)

shane

And that's the crux of the issue: Which one has the better scalar. I would assume the DVD player, but all the talk over on the NEC thread lead me to believe that some panels (perhaps not this one) have better scalars than even some stand-alone units (let alone most DVD players).

I have a HDMI board on order and would rather not buy two... and the other alternative is to get a switcher. The MonoPrice one (5x1) looks like it might be the ticket as I eventually will get some type of 'HD'-DVD player and will then need at least 3 inputs.

Anyone else have an opinion on the 480p vs 720p-1080i situation I find myself in? :)

All in all... it's not like it's a stressful decision. ;)

shane
I'm outputting 480p to my panel via HDMI and am getting excellent results. I have 2 HDMI boards. One connects the panel directly to the digital cable stb and the other connects to a HDMI switching receiver (Denon 4306). The system works flawlessly thus far and I am using the receiver to upconvert/pass through signal to the panel from a host of sources:
VCR via S-video
DVD via HDMI (480p)
DirecTV STB via HDMI

Hope that this helps.

Which one has the better scalar.Shane,

As you pointed out, it shouldn't be a stressful decision. Either way you're good? I would imagine that any difference in quality between the scalr in your DVD and the scalar in the 50PHD8UK would POSSIBLY be so negligible as to make it a moot point?

Likewise the difference in PQ between HDMI & DVI is possibly in the mind of the beholder more than the eye of the viewer?

With my tired old, blood-shot eyes --- I really can't say that I see any noticeable difference between various scalars or between HDMI/DVI and component. Maybe I'm just not too optically discerning? Sure, there is probably a difference... I just don't "see" it. YEMV (your eyesight may vary.)

What I can say for a fact is that I honestly "believe" that the PQ I am seeing on my TH-50PHD8UK is absolutely phenomenal. I truly wonder if you take an already phenomenal picture and increase it's pneomenality --- how much better would it have to be to be more than phenomenal? :)

Just my thoughts. :D

I really can't say that I see any noticeable difference between various scalars or between HDMI/DVI and component.
That's because you have the version 7 HDMI board.





... Just kidding! :)

Shane,

As you pointed out, it shouldn't be a stressful decision. Either way you're good? I would imagine that any difference in quality between the scalr in your DVD and the scalar in the 50PHD8UK would POSSIBLY be so negligible as to make it a moot point?

Likewise the difference in PQ between HDMI & DVI is possibly in the mind of the beholder more than the eye of the viewer?

With my tired old, blood-shot eyes --- I really can't say that I see any noticeable difference between various scalars or between HDMI/DVI and component. Maybe I'm just not too optically discerning? Sure, there is probably a difference... I just don't "see" it. YEMV (your eyesight may vary.)

What I can say for a fact is that I honestly "believe" that the PQ I am seeing on my TH-50PHD8UK is absolutely phenomenal. I truly wonder if you take an already phenomenal picture and increase it's pneomenality --- how much better would it have to be to be more than phenomenal? :)

Just my thoughts. :D

I'd be really really surprised if 480i looked better than 480p over any connection from your 79Avi! I could be wrong but Shane, you'll let us know ;)

Shane,

As you pointed out, it shouldn't be a stressful decision. Either way you're good? I would imagine that any difference in quality between the scalr in your DVD and the scalar in the 50PHD8UK would POSSIBLY be so negligible as to make it a moot point?



You are so right.

It probably depends a lot on the DVD player. For example, DVD's actually look better on my set when progessive scan is disabled in the DVD player - suggesting the TV does a significantly better job deinterlacing than my particular DVD player. Doesn't say a lot for the player, but with this setup, DVDs look terrific, so I'm happy.


Likewise the difference in PQ between HDMI & DVI is possibly in the mind of the beholder more than the eye of the viewer?


It's my understanding that the only difference between HDMI and DVI is the connector, and the fact that HDMI passes audio signal as well. PQ should be identical, as they are passing the same digital information.

Component is a different story, being analog, but I set up my set initially using component, figuring I would only bother with the HDMI blade if I felt the PQ was lacking. I haven't had any desire to move to HDMI, as the PQ (assuming quality source material) is fantastic.

My philosophy is to try to get the best out of what I already have available, or can be had on the cheap (i.e. buying a cable to try a different connection), and work up from there. If an issue remains, then buy something appropriate to solve it.

These boards are a great source of information, but I can see how they could also cause more confusion and worry than they are worth - you get enough audio and video geeks arguing over every subtle flaw and feature - real or perceived - in every cable and component, and pretty soon folks start to think they need to sweat every detail just to watch some TV.

Ok... this is good.
Not that this debate hasn't been beaten to death in a myriad of other threads, but it seems to take on a bit of a new life when it's about the specifics of one's own components.

Thanks for all the input (pun intend).
Looks like I'll need to see for myself. Literally.
I’ve got an extra HDMI cable as well as the 15-pin adapter for the component input, AND a set of BNC’s so I’m pretty much set for a few days of serious experimentation and eyeball-straining fun.

The PDP is due late this week (or early next…), but the HDMI board isn’t due until sometime early June. Guess I’ll just have to put-up-with one form or another of component for the time being. Oh, the misery. ;)

Toss-o-the-coin for which gets which in the meantime, but I think I'll go with PC-Comp. input for the HD-STB and BNC-Comp. for the DVD. There. Done.

I'll let you all know how things turn out... thanks again for your opinions.

Cheers

shane

That's because you have the version 7 HDMI board. Just kidding! :)Mule,

Ooooh, that makes me so mad! :D

Actually I'm not even using HDMI... I originally installed both a HDMI and DVI blade when I first got my 50PHD8UK monitor, but quickly decided to go with just the DVI. Probably should have kept the 7th gen HDMI blade and sold the DVI --- especially since the 7th and 8th gen HDMI blades are exactly the same! :D :D :D

But while I had both installed along with my component blade, I couldn't see any difference in PQ when comparing them to each other. Please no wisecracks about red-tipped canes! :eek:

I did roll on the floor laughing when I read your reply... Still chuckling... ;)

Mule,

Ooooh, that makes me so mad! :D

Actually I'm not even using HDMI... I originally installed both a HDMI and DVI blade when I first got my 50PHD8UK monitor, but quickly decided to go with just the DVI. Probably should have kept the 7th gen HDMI blade and sold the DVI --- especially since the 7th and 8th gen HDMI blades are exactly the same! :D :D :D

But while I had both installed along with my component blade, I couldn't see any difference in PQ when comparing them to each other. Please no wisecracks about red-tipped canes! :eek:


I agree with everyone's comments to the effect that your PQ is going to be excellent whether you connect via component or hdmi/dvi. But, I must also say that I noticed a significant improvement (much to my pleasant surprise as I didn't think that the PQ could get much better) on my 8UK when I switched from component to HDMI for digital cable. And, this was based on a same source comparison.

I am finding that HDMI (8-series blade) gives me a slightly sharper, more detailed image than with component.
Component seems smoother, but at a very slight loss of detail; actually more "crt-like" than digital.
Comparisons made with same source Comcast DVR ( I guess that's a variable,too.)
Steve

I am finding that HDMI (8-series blade) gives me a slightly sharper, more detailed image than with component.
Component seems smoother, but at a very slight loss of detail; actually more "crt-like" than digital.
Comparisons made with same source Comcast DVR ( I guess that's a variable,too.)
Steve
Thanks Steve.
Q. What res are you feeding the HDMI... 720p, 1080i?
Also, were you upscaling over component, or feeding it 480i or 480p?

Tks

shane

These boards are a great source of information, but I can see how they could also cause more confusion and worry than they are worth - you get enough audio and video geeks arguing over every subtle flaw and feature - real or perceived - in every cable and component, and pretty soon folks start to think they need to sweat every detail just to watch some TV.Bezona,

You mean I don't have to sweat every detail??? <deep sigh of relief> ;)

I agree with you... Sure sometimes the ocassional poster gets nitpicky... I suppose it's even possible that I might've been guilty of picking a nit, now and then, myself? :eek:

But, I truly-bluely believe that the benefits of reading forum posts (even messages posted by those who don't fully agree with me) are generally very positive. I've learned mountains of info here. Still do!

As long as you keep a grain or two of salt judiciously saved next to your computer --- all is well in AVSforumLand. :)

But, maybe I'm just being nitpicky? :D

Thanks Steve.
Q. What res are you feeding the HDMI... 720p, 1080i?
Also, were you upscaling over component, or feeding it 480i or 480p?

Tks

shane
Hi Shane,

The A/B testing was done with 1080I over HDMI and component(and the program source was 1080i).
The Comcast box doesn't allow for native passthrough and is a pain to switch. Previously I had thought that 720p looked a little soft, so I leave it at 1080i.
I haven't tried comparing any 720p sources though...
Steve

Hi Shane,

The A/B testing was done with 1080I over HDMI and component(and the program source was 1080i).
The Comcast box doesn't allow for native passthrough and is a pain to switch. Previously I had thought that 720p looked a little soft, so I leave it at 1080i.
I haven't tried comparing any 720p sources though...
Steve
Thanks.
Yup... without getting too OT, I found that to my Pio plasma the 1080i-HDMI feed from my Comcrap HD box was sharper and cleaner than the 720p feed, regardless of what the source was broadcast at.

shane

A grain of salt is required indeed.

I agree - there is much much good and useful info here, if you spend the time to parse the signal from the noise.

Sometimes I just feel bad for the average Joe coming in with a simple question, and having thier thread descend into a holy war over which diamond encrusted, solid platinum $900 cable they "need" to be using to hook up their TV - not to mention the 95 other "must have" components they suddenly "need" to get that pristinely perfect picture and sound - despite the fact that most TV stations still seem to be broadcasting with pinhole cameras and a cup and string and many DVD transfers look like some kid in a movie theater recorded it on his cell phone camera. Polishing the turd indeed.

Obviously I exagerate for emphasis (but only a little) :D

A grain of salt is required indeed.

I agree - there is much much good and useful info here, if you spend the time to parse the signal from the noise.

Sometimes I just feel bad for the average Joe coming in with a simple question, and having thier thread descend into a holy war over which diamond encrusted, solid platinum $900 cable they "need" to be using to hook up their TV - not to mention the 95 other "must have" components they suddenly "need" to get that pristinely perfect picture and sound - despite the fact that most TV stations still seem to be broadcasting with pinhole cameras and a cup and string and many DVD transfers look like some kid in a movie theater recorded it on his cell phone camera. Polishing the turd indeed.

Obviously I exagerate for emphasis (but only a little) :D
Sure, but watchyagonnado?
If you want to see that cell-phone recording in all it's 'glory', you've got to have the right equipment tuned to it's best possible output. :D

Yeah... sometimes threads can get a little OCD. This one seems to be fairly steady and on target, and I appreciate that.

shane

I posted a few days ago regarding the 50PHD8UK I was getting for $1300. I went ahead and purchased it. Found out it has the TY-42TM6MA blade installed and that takes up two slots (cable tuner). I'll have to remove this board to put in an HDMI board, but then I'll have to buy another board if I want S-Video.
What is my best option?
Leave it the way it is (TV Tuner blade which also has S-video and component blade) or ????
I'll be watching a lot of standard digital cable channels, lots of DVD movies, and some HD cable channels.
I guess I could sell the Tuner blade on Ebay and just buy the HDMI blade and an S-video blade.
Any suggestions ????
Thanks.

If you end up wanting a S-Video blade let me know. I have one that came with my unit new. I removed it day one to make room for 2 DVI blades

I posted a few days ago regarding the 50PHD8UK I was getting for $1300. I went ahead and purchased it. Found out it has the TY-42TM6MA blade installed and that takes up two slots (cable tuner). I'll have to remove this board to put in an HDMI board, but then I'll have to buy another board if I want S-Video.
What is my best option?
Leave it the way it is (TV Tuner blade which also has S-video and component blade) or ????
I'll be watching a lot of standard digital cable channels, lots of DVD movies, and some HD cable channels.
I guess I could sell the Tuner blade on Ebay and just buy the HDMI blade and an S-video blade.
Any suggestions ????
Thanks.

I posted a few days ago regarding the 50PHD8UK I was getting for $1300. I went ahead and purchased it. Found out it has the TY-42TM6MA blade installed and that takes up two slots (cable tuner). I'll have to remove this board to put in an HDMI board, but then I'll have to buy another board if I want S-Video.
What is my best option?
Leave it the way it is (TV Tuner blade which also has S-video and component blade) or ????
I'll be watching a lot of standard digital cable channels, lots of DVD movies, and some HD cable channels.
I guess I could sell the Tuner blade on Ebay and just buy the HDMI blade and an S-video blade.
Any suggestions ????
Thanks.imacuser,

I just read the description for this 2-slot terminal board and don't understand what it actually does...

TY-42TM6MA; This optional board with built-in NTSC tuner is compatible with Hospitality port/PPV systems. The industry's only slot-in type, the board is concealed on the panel's back and requires no additional installation space.

Features:
Compatible with SmartPlug/PPV systems
Hotel mode/Normal mode switchable
Volume Limit, Channel Limit, Front button lock functions
AV Input select by PPV system (for DVD, Digital Camera, etc.)
Audio OUT (ON/OFF switchable)

It's not a cheap blade...

What does "hospitality port/PPV systems " compatible mean? What is a Smart Plug? What hotels have 50" plasma monitors in the rooms? I never have seen one at Motel 6... :)

You might break even after you buy a HDMI and composite blade and sell this blade? Sounds to me like swapping a HDMI and composite blade will do the trick for you too...

Does it have a component blade in slot3?

Have you connected it to anything yet, and if so, how does she look?

?

TechoFobe,
I just thought it was mainly a TV tuner, but I think the Hospitality port is used for Pay Per View (like in a sports bar maybe)??

The Panasonic does have the component blade in slot 3.

I just got the stand today and will be hooking it all up tonight. Will post how it goes. I may just sell the TV tuner and get two HDMI boards, or ?????

I just got the stand today and will be hooking it all up tonight. Will post how it goes. I may just sell the TV tuner and get two HDMI boards, or ?????
I don't have a clue what that blade does or what the smart plug is all about... Was ready to reserve the Presidential Suite at the Ritz-Carlton to try and find out... :D

Two HDMI blades? Hmmm, I had both a HDMI & a DVI blade and sold the HDMI because I "needed" the S-Video (composite) blade and it doesn't work in slot3. Component is redundent for MY purposes... But, what the heck, it came with the monitor and works in slot3 where HDMI, DVI and composite blades will not function.

I wanted the composite blade in addition to my DVI blade so that I can have two separate inputs --- which allows me to use the monitor's PIP feature... Used PIP once so far! :o

But, one DVI (or HDMI) blade is all I really need because my A/V receiver upconverts SD signals into the DVI blade... Kind of like zero of one and none of the other? :)

Good luck getting it all setup and running!

You'll be getting my impressions soon, the 8uk was delivered today....2 days sooner than my scheduled day(Friday)! Ordered on Thursday, that's less than a week!!!! and that's for 2 8uk's(one for Pop)

Can you elaborate on that? I am finding the VGA port completely useless and wonder why it is even on the unit. The 1366x768 resolution is not supported by anything so you can tip-toe around with 1360 or 1368 but you're still in the analog world so you'll get stretched fonts no matter what. Then you have to adjust overscan, vertical alignment, etc.

DVI on the other hand is like a Plug and Play LCD monitor; Windows detects it and makes full use of the whole screen to the very last dot and at the correct resolution from the moment you plug it in. No adjustment needed. 100% digital.
It even found the name of the screen and assigned a proper color profile.

I could sit back and reply to emails if I wanted, the text was that crisp. Everything else that needed scaling from different resolutions (games/dvd's/etc), also looked great because Windows took care of the resizing to the proper resolution.
I really don't feeling like arguing here.

Like I've said, take a look at some of the pics i've posted in this forum site. The total number of pics around over 150, but spreaded all over the forum. The pics are all from VGA. Since you refused to look, here is the link right for you to click--> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7630310&&#post7630310. Do not underestimate the power of VGA interface. You take your little dinky HDMI connection and try taking some screenshots. I would like to see em. ;)

As for the texts on display, ho ho..... I have absolutely no problem reading them. They are very clear, crsip, and clean.

Sounds like you were using a $12 VGA cable. big...... mistake. ;) I'm an experienced user. I've gone through all kinds of cables.

I have been a reader of this forum for some time, but I can't remember this topic being discussed very often.

I've had my 8UK for about 5 months now and absolutely love it. My question is, does anyone use the PIP feature on the panel? If so, can you explain how your set-up allows for it? I am most interested in watching two cable stations (i.e. sports) at a time.

I have the following set up: HDMI feeds from both my HD cable box and DVD player into my AV receiver and then just one HDMI feed from the receiver to the panel.

Since I control the cable stations via the cable box/DVR, would I need two cable boxes connected to two different panel inputs in order to use the PIP?

I realize that I can use the PIP function from my time warner DVR, but I hate the placement of the PIP on screen, especially in stretch mode.

Thanks in advance.

I have been a reader of this forum for some time, but I can't remember this topic being discussed very often.

I've had my 8UK for about 5 months now and absolutely love it. My question is, does anyone use the PIP feature on the panel? If so, can you explain how your set-up allows for it? I am most interested in watching two cable stations (i.e. sports) at a time.

I have the following set up: HDMI feeds from both my HD cable box and DVD player into my AV receiver and then just one HDMI feed from the receiver to the panel.

Since I control the cable stations via the cable box/DVR, would I need two cable boxes connected to two different panel inputs in order to use the PIP?

I realize that I can use the PIP function from my time warner DVR, but I hate the placement of the PIP on screen, especially in stretch mode.

Thanks in advance.

You'll need to connect to 2 different input sources on the panel in order to take advantage of the panel's PIP functions. You could choose to connect the DVD player directly to the panel via another HDMI blade. But, you probably would be fine without purchasing another blade if you simply connected the DVD player via the existing component inputs on the panel and connect the cable box directly to the panel via the HDMI blade. Use the receiver for audio only in this case. Note that you may have to adjust audio delay on the receiver for proper synch with the video, especially for the DVD player. (Obviously, you would also use a splitter to ensure that you have cable tv inputting into both the dvd player and your cable STB.)

Hope this helps.

This would allow for you to watch content from the DVD player and the Cable Box only. If you want to watch two TV stations you would need two cable boxes, one connected direct and one through your receiver. Or a cable box that has 2 tunners with two distinct outputs(never seen one).

You'll need to connect to 2 different input sources on the panel in order to take advantage of the panel's PIP functions. You could choose to connect the DVD player directly to the panel via another HDMI blade. But, you probably would be fine without purchasing another blade if you simply connected the DVD player via the existing component inputs on the panel and connect the cable box directly to the panel via the HDMI blade. Use the receiver for audio only in this case. Note that you may have to adjust audio delay on the receiver for proper synch with the video, especially for the DVD player. (Obviously, you would also use a splitter to ensure that you have cable tv inputting into both the dvd player and your cable STB.)

Hope this helps.

This would allow for you to watch content from the DVD player and the Cable Box only. If you want to watch two TV stations you would need two cable boxes, one connected direct and one through your receiver. Or a cable box that has 2 tunners with two distinct outputs(never seen one).

Actually, IIRC, dish network has some receivers that have two distinct outputs....might want to check it out.

This would allow for you to watch content from the DVD player and the Cable Box only. If you want to watch two TV stations you would need two cable boxes, one connected direct and one through your receiver. Or a cable box that has 2 tunners with two distinct outputs(never seen one).

I'm not sure you noticed that I also recommended that he use a cable splitter to ensure that he would be able to watch 2 TV stations at the same time, provided that the TV station fed to the DVD player was not scrambled. I'm assuming that his DVD player also has a TV tuner, as mine does. Some do, some don't. Obviously, if his DVD player does not have a tuner, your observation is absolutely correct.

Just ordered the 50" from Costco.

Question: do you have to install the blades before mounting the unit? Still undecided on the exact configuration, and I may have the swap out the blades at some point.

I know it would depend a lot on my particular mount, but how hard is it to access the blades and swap them out if the unit is mounted? Is it even feasible?

Just ordered the 50" from Costco.

Question: do you have to install the blades before mounting the unit? Still undecided on the exact configuration, and I may have the swap out the blades at some point.

I know it would depend a lot on my particular mount, but how hard is it to access the blades and swap them out if the unit is mounted? Is it even feasible?
Harden, if you look further up this thread you'll see quite a discussion on this.
The bottom line is:
Yes, it's possible to do once it is on the table stand, but it doesn't seem worth all the extreme effort.
No, once the panel is mounted on a wall... fuggetaboutit! :D
Hope that helps

shane

I just got a 50 inch 8UK and was wondering if theres any way to use the composite out when the input is component. I'm going right into the camera via panasonics HD24P through the component in on the Plasma. I want to be able to go out of the composite into my HDD - I tried doing so but the only time I could get a signal to go through the output was when the input was composite. Is the composite out only patched to the composite in signal? THanks for your help!

Got my 50PHD8UK hooked up the other night. HD cable box hooked to the component input and my upconverting DVD player hooked to the HD15 connector.
Everything looks GREAT.
I think I'll wait on getting the HDMI blade as I'm happy with everything as it is.
One quick question, I need to clean some fingerprints off the screen. I purchased Monster ScreenClean from Fry's Electronics. Is that a safe product to use on my Plasma???
Thanks.

Got my 50PHD8UK hooked up the other night. HD cable box hooked to the component input and my upconverting DVD player hooked to the HD15 connector.
Everything looks GREAT.
I think I'll wait on getting the HDMI blade as I'm happy with everything as it is.
One quick question, I need to clean some fingerprints off the screen. I purchased Monster ScreenClean from Fry's Electronics. Is that a safe product to use on my Plasma???
Thanks.


I use just a lint free cloth, no chemicals.

I just got a 50 inch 8UK and was wondering if theres any way to use the composite out when the input is component. I'm going right into the camera via panasonics HD24P through the component in on the Plasma. I want to be able to go out of the composite into my HDD - I tried doing so but the only time I could get a signal to go through the output was when the input was composite. Is the composite out only patched to the composite in signal? THanks for your help!Adam,

What composite terminal board do you have? The TY-42TM6V that came with my 50PHD8UK monitor doesn't have outputs, just inputs. Looks like the TY-42TM6B (BNC Composite Video Terminal Board) has inputs and outputs, but doesn't do S-Video?

But I must admit that your explanation of what you are trying to do went WAY over my head... What is a "Panasonic HD24P"?

Don't know for a fact, but it sounds likely that the composite input and output is simply a pass-thru? But, I would be amazed if you could input a component signal and then get a composite signal back out... Amazed...

Since I don't really understand what you're trying to do --- I don't have any great suggestions for how you could do it. :)

Just to make I have this straight ...

With either the 50" 8UK or the 42" version, there are only a total of 3 inputs? It comes with component inputs, RCA inputs and then a blank spot to put a blade (e.g. HDMI, more component, etc.)

I was planning on having two HDMI boards, a space for component inputs and then RCA jacks. Is that impossible?

Thanks.

Just to make I have this straight ...

With either the 50" 8UK or the 42" version, there are only a total of 3 inputs? It comes with component inputs, RCA inputs and then a blank spot to put a blade (e.g. HDMI, more component, etc.)

I was planning on having two HDMI boards, a space for component inputs and then RCA jacks. Is that impossible?

Thanks.

Here are the inputs:

1. Blank board (hdmi/dvi)
2. Composite/S-video (you can replace this with an hdmi board)
3. BNC-Component (cannot be replaced AFAIK)
4. VGA/Component (cannot be replaced AFAIK). You can use this as a component connection by going to the set-up menu and selecting component (the default is set to RGB) and then using a VGA/component cable. I use this for my HD DVD player and the PQ is 'astounding'.

So, you can have 4 connections - 2 digital 2 component.

For more, use a switcher...

Harden, if you look further up this thread you'll see quite a discussion on this.
The bottom line is:
Yes, it's possible to do once it is on the table stand, but it doesn't seem worth all the extreme effort.
No, once the panel is mounted on a wall... fuggetaboutit! :D
Hope that helps

shane


Actually, I installed my DVI blade _after_ wall-mounting (because I was a little afraid to place the panel horizontally). I didn't really think it was a big deal, just took about 3 min with me laying up against the wall looking up at the slot. Slightly tedious putting the screws in for the terminal board, but again, not a big problem.

I'm using a Peerless non-tilting wallmount, which brings the screen about 4.5 inches out from the wall.

Just to let you know that while it may be easier to put the blades in off the mount, it's by no means difficult to do on the mount. I definitely won't be taking the whole unit down from the wall just to change blades if I need to.

cheers,
Dave

Actually, I installed my DVI blade _after_ wall-mounting (because I was a little afraid to place the panel horizontally). I didn't really think it was a big deal, just took about 3 min with me laying up against the wall looking up at the slot. Slightly tedious putting the screws in for the terminal board, but again, not a big problem.

I'm using a Peerless non-tilting wallmount, which brings the screen about 4.5 inches out from the wall.

Just to let you know that while it may be easier to put the blades in off the mount, it's by no means difficult to do on the mount. I definitely won't be taking the whole unit down from the wall just to change blades if I need to.

cheers,
Dave

I hadn't read anything about installing boards while it's still on the pedestal stand, but I didn't seem to have any trouble adding a DVI board to my 8UK, either. I didn't want to risk damaging the screen by lifting it off and laying it flat, so I figured I'd give it a try first. I used one of those short "stubby" phillips screwdrivers (they're only about 2.5" long). Magnetized it so it would hold a screw vertically and feel around for the screw holes. The board itself *just about* squeezes into the clearance between the slot and the pedestal base -- with a little tilt.

Altogether less than 10 minutes work.

Plazman (and others),

Thanks for the reply.

But what exactly is "BNC-Component" and "VGA/Component". If I have an older DirecTV receiver that only has RCA audio and S-Video out, where/how would I hook it up.

And if my PC's video card only has RGB out, how would I hook that up as well?

Here are the things I need to hook up:

DVD (has RCA/S-Video - but I may upgrade this unit)
DirectTV HD receiver (HDMI, component)
DirecTV DVR (only RCA/S-Video)
PC (RGB, may hook this up occassionally)
Extra RCA jacks for the camcorder, PlayStation 2.

Am I SOL? Is this not the right TV for me?

Thanks.

I have a TH 50PHD8UK that has worked perfectly fine for 6 months until last night. While watching sat tv it just click off. At first I assumed someone sat on the remote control then I noticed the green power indicator light changed to red and was flashing on/off. :(

I turned everything off and unplugged everything hoping that would reset things. I even left it like that over night. I plugged it all back in this morning and get the same results. I'm positive now there is something malfunctioning in the plasma.

As soon as I turn on the main on/off switch (manually) the green light comes on and the screen starts to power up for less than 1 second and it goes blank. It seems to be some kind of circuit breaker device inside the plasma. Within that first split second the Green light then switches to Red and blinks six times and goes solid Red and repeats the cycle. :eek:

Any suggestions out there? With the holiday weekend I imagine I will have to wait until Tuesday to call Panansonic for help.

Thanks,
Kenreau

One bad thing about getting the commercial model is no home service.

Why do you have both a DirecTV HD receiver AND an SD DirecTV DVR? Why not just combine them into a sinlge HD DVR box so you can record in HD?

If you want to have both your PC monitor and the plasma connected to the PC, then get a VGA splitter or switchbox for your PC - don't use the composite RCA out - it will look like cr@p.

Billybob,

Because I didn't want to spend megabucks for the overinflated HD DVRs right now.

I have a standby UltimateTV that works great. Until the HD DVRs come down in price, I'm sticking with it.

Any other thoughts on my dilemma? Thanks.

Does anyone know the specs of the HDMI blades currently available for the 8UK? Is it HDMI 1.1 or 1.3?

Also, if/when the spec changes, is it based on the hardware of the blade, or the TV?

For instance, say the TV (blade??) supported HDMI 1.1. A new spec is (or is soon going to be) HDMI 1.3. When this happens does the support depend on the blade or the TV? Would I be able to upgrade the hardware? Or will I always be stuck with HDMI 1.1 for this display?

Does that make sense?

Also, can anyone verify whether or not the current electronics in the Panny 8UK would work with the US 1080p HDMI version of the blade? I've heard this will be addressed (probably) in the 9UK (or whatever comes out), but I really don't want to wait for it.

Thanks,

thephatp

Anyone with an explanation of the difference bewtween the BNC and VGA component inputs? Can you get adapters to allow RCA jacks to use these inputs?

Thanks.

wbradney & dfitz
Thanks for the insight. Not having one, I was simply going by what I had read here in earlier posts. Nice to know it's not as big a PITA as others have stated.

Mine gets here on Tuesday and I'm seriously jazzed! :D
Gee... I wonder what I'll be doing on Wednesday?

shane

Hi Group,
As a newbie to this whole HDTV trip...and after reading alot of posts in this thread, I really think I need some expert advice on the hookup of the system I just purchased.

This is the stuff I purchased:
Panasonic TH-50PHD8UK panel/ bought extra TY-FB8HM...HDMI card...
Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300HD PVR set top box...HDMI and component out
Pioneer DV-588A DVD player...component out (cheapie...I know!)
Yamaha YSP 1000 Digital Sound Projector/ cw...Paradigm Ultra Cube 10 Subwoofer
So is there anyone out there who can tap thier vast storehouse of knowledge and give a guy a clue as to the best solution to this install?

I would be in your debt forever...
Paul.

Hi Group,
As a newbie to this whole HDTV trip...and after reading alot of posts in this thread, I really think I need some expert advice on the hookup of the system I just purchased.

This is the stuff I purchased:
Panasonic TH-50PHD8UK panel/ bought extra TY-FB8HM...HDMI card...
Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300HD PVR set top box...HDMI and component out
Pioneer DV-588A DVD player...component out (cheapie...I know!)
Yamaha YSP 1000 Digital Sound Projector/ cw...Paradigm Ultra Cube 10 Subwoofer
So is there anyone out there who can tap thier vast storehouse of knowledge and give a guy a clue as to the best solution to this install?

I would be in your debt forever...
Paul.

Pisbee: Did I miss something or did you not purchase an audio/video receiver? If you want to enjoy surround sound, you'll need to get one. Once you do, simply connect the 8300 to the panel's HDMI card via HDMI, but output audio to the receiver via digital audio. Do the same for the DVD player (obviously using component). Connect all the speakers to the surround sound audio/video receiver.

I'm not familiar with the specifics for your subwoofer, but most can be connected to the receiver via sub out. Most receivers also suggest that you connect the other speakers in your surround setup directly to the receiver and not the subwoofer. If I'm not mistaken, the Yamaha YSP has discrete inputs for left, right, center, etc. Simply connect those to the appropriate connection on the back of your receiver.

Set up the receiver to select audion source based on DVD or TV input and simply tune your panel to the correct input (either DVD or cable) and your receiver to the corresponding input source and enjoy.


After you do all of the above, invest in a decent all-in-one remote control (such as a Logitech Harmony 880) and you'll be a much happier camper.

Hope that this helps.

Thanks jsf,
The yamaha YSP 1000 has all the electronics in it...actually an amp for each of the 42 drivers so it replaces the AV receiver...however it has only component in and out..ie everything gets hooked up to the yammi and then out to the panel (I think so the OSD from the yammi can be utilized)...could I run the 8300 direct HDMI to panel and run the DVD player component in to the yammi and component out of the yammi to the panel so I could use the OSD by selecting the DVD input and when I have the cable input selected the HDMI would be direct from 8300 to the panel...does this make any sense to you?

Thanks...Paul

I tried this once, but I'll try one more time.

Does anyone know what will happen as the HDMI specs change? Can you just buy a new blade that's an HDMI 1.3 or 2.0 or whatever blade, and the TV will be able to handle it? Or does it depend on the electronics in the TV?

Thanks jsf,
The yamaha YSP 1000 has all the electronics in it...actually an amp for each of the 42 drivers so it replaces the AV receiver...however it has only component in and out..ie everything gets hooked up to the yammi and then out to the panel (I think so the OSD from the yammi can be utilized)...could I run the 8300 direct HDMI to panel and run the DVD player component in to the yammi and component out of the yammi to the panel so I could use the OSD by selecting the DVD input and when I have the cable input selected the HDMI would be direct from 8300 to the panel...does this make any sense to you?

Thanks...Paul

Paul: I think that makes sense to me as long as you can also run a digital audio in from the SA8300 to the Yamaha while running an HDMI cable to the panel. It should work. But, as you already guessed, you'll only get to see OSD when viewing the DVD source through component.

Let me know how this works out for you.

I tried this once, but I'll try one more time.

Does anyone know what will happen as the HDMI specs change? Can you just buy a new blade that's an HDMI 1.3 or 2.0 or whatever blade, and the TV will be able to handle it? Or does it depend on the electronics in the TV?

Future versions of HDMI are reported to be backwards compatible. But, don't expect present panels to be upgradeable to future HDMI specs. The blade will not make the panel "future proof," if that's your question.

Thanks again jsf,
And if I decide to go with a "HD DVD" down the line I will have to buy another HDMI card for the panel and be unable to use the OSD period...is that correct and I guess that would also require an additional digital audio out to yammi from DVD player...?

Thanks Paul

Thanks again jsf,
And if I decide to go with a "HD DVD" down the line I will have to buy another HDMI card for the panel and be unable to use the OSD period...is that correct and I guess that would also require an additional digital audio out to yammi from DVD player...?

Thanks Paul

Paul: You're catching on fast! You're absolutely correct if you plan on connecting the HD DVD via HDMI. The only other alternative would be to purchase an HDMI switcher (receiver or otherwise). Keep in mind that the SA 8300 will not let you connect to the panel through a receiver (and, also may not via an HDMI switch). It tends to DEMAND a direct connection to the panel to work. Also remember to disable 480i output from the 8300 if you plan on connecting it via HDMI because the panel cannot render 480i sources through HDMI.

Future versions of HDMI are reported to be backwards compatible. But, don't expect present panels to be upgradeable to future HDMI specs. The blade will not make the panel "future proof," if that's your question.

Thanks, jsf. That's what I was wanting to know. I'd hate to buy something now (like the px60u) only to find out I could have bought something more expandable in getting a commercial with a blade.

Other than the blade and PC Input options with the commerical, is there any advantage in electronics that the 8UK would have an advantage over the px60u? What about the new commercial coming out this fall? Any info on that?

Thanks!

jsf...so much information and way too few grey cells (must be Mad Cow)...exactly how would one go about disabling 480i output from the 8300...heck I just recently figured out how the TV guide works in the damn thing...Duh!!!
Paul

Thanks, jsf. That's what I was wanting to know. I'd hate to buy something now (like the px60u) only to find out I could have bought something more expandable in getting a commercial with a blade.

Other than the blade and PC Input options with the commerical, is there any advantage in electronics that the 8UK would have an advantage over the px60u? What about the new commercial coming out this fall? Any info on that?

Thanks!

The biggest advantage over the px60u is the "tweakability" of the 8UK series vs. consumer panels. The user has much more access to service controls in the commercial panels and can adjust PQ more easily as a result. Also, some have suggested that the scaler may be different in the 8UK series, but I cannot confirm that for you. The stretch mode in the 8UK series also differs a bit when using "just" mode. Finally, there are aesthetic differences between the two.

There has been little info released on the upcoming commercial series. Most information has been based on speculation, not facts. This industry has become more mature over the past couple of years. As a consequence, differences in models from year to year are GENERALLY evolutionary, not revolutionary. (Obviously, a full spec 1080p panel, like the upcoming 65" Panny, represents a revolutionary improvement over prior models.)

jsf...so much information and way too few grey cells (must be Mad Cow)...exactly how would one go about disabling 480i output from the 8300...heck I just recently figured out how the TV guide works in the damn thing...Duh!!!
Paul

Your 8300 should have come with a manual that will describe the advanced setup options for this STB. You will need to push a couple of buttons on the STB itself to access the advance setup routine (can't recall off-hand, what those are). If I'm not mistaken, the STB has to be "off" when those buttons are pressed and you'll have to cycle it back on afterwards. The advanced set-up cannot be accessed via the remote control.

The biggest advantage over the px60u is the "tweakability" of the 8UK series vs. consumer panels. The user has much more access to service controls in the commercial panels and can adjust PQ more easily as a result. Also, some have suggested that the scaler may be different in the 8UK series, but I cannot confirm that for you. The stretch mode in the 8UK series also differs a bit when using "just" mode. Finally, there are aesthetic differences between the two.

There has been little info released on the upcoming commercial series. Most information has been based on speculation, not facts. This industry has become more mature over the past couple of years. As a consequence, differences in models from year to year are GENERALLY evolutionary, not revolutionary. (Obviously, a full spec 1080p panel, like the upcoming 65" Panny, represents a revolutionary improvement over prior models.)

Thanks again. This is very helpful, as I am a newbie to video technology. This will be my first big purchase, and I hope to keep it for a while. I'm trying to find that balance between all the differences, and what I'll actually use.

I'd like to have the flexibilty to tweak the picture, but, as a newbie, do you think that's something I would regret in getting the px60u? I've read that there is much more flexibility here, but I'm not sure how much I'd actually use it to my advantage.

Also, I'd like to have the ability to accept 1080p input, which I understand the 8UK does not support. Is that really very important for a screen that can't actually output the full 1080p and would have to scale it anyway? That's another big reason why I'm struggling with going for the px60u over the 8UK.

And if the new commercial won't be, as you said, "revolutionary", I'm not sure I want to wait, because I have a budget, and I'd probably have to wait many months after it's release to be able to afford it, anyway.

Any more advice, or any info a newbie should have?

Thanks so much for all of your help!!

thephatp

Thanks again. This is very helpful, as I am a newbie to video technology. This will be my first big purchase, and I hope to keep it for a while. I'm trying to find that balance between all the differences, and what I'll actually use.

I'd like to have the flexibilty to tweak the picture, but, as a newbie, do you think that's something I would regret in getting the px60u? I've read that there is much more flexibility here, but I'm not sure how much I'd actually use it to my advantage.

Also, I'd like to have the ability to accept 1080p input, which I understand the 8UK does not support. Is that really very important for a screen that can't actually output the full 1080p and would have to scale it anyway? That's another big reason why I'm struggling with going for the px60u over the 8UK.

And if the new commercial won't be, as you said, "revolutionary", I'm not sure I want to wait, because I have a budget, and I'd probably have to wait many months after it's release to be able to afford it, anyway.

Any more advice, or any info a newbie should have?

Thanks so much for all of your help!!

thephatp

As an aside, the 8UK will accept 1080p 30 and 1080p 24 via component, but that matters little, if at all. In fact, the 1080p feature is something that you are unlikely to ever use unless you buy a full spec 1080p panel (which have not yet hit the market in the USA) and some suggest that a full spec 1080p panel is a waste of money for most people watching 50" panels from common viewing distances. So, I wouldn't let that issue trouble you.

More importantly, my best advice to you would be to stop overanalyzing. If you have found a panel that you like after doing your research and viewing them in person, there's really no good reason to hesitate on pulling the trigger out of fear that you haven't bought the very best panel you can purchase at that price point. After all, the definition of the "very best panel" will differ from person to person and the PQ (picture quality) distinctions between similarly priced panels are minimal, despite the hype you may read by owners of specific brands.

As in everything else in life, there will always be another product introduced the month after you make your purchase decision that may be bigger and/or better. And, there will always be someone who will say that another product is better than the one you purchased. But, the important thing for you to keep in mind is that you're not likely to have more than one panel on display in your room at the same time. Believe me, the panel you buy will look great once you have it set up and, if your expectations are reasonable, you'll be more than satisfied with the PQ.

Finally, if you're not a videophile, you probably won't tweak your picture too much after the first week of ownership. I suspect that the consumer models address the tweaking needs of almost all buyers. And, if you're not thrilled with the tweaking options, an ISF calibrator can access the tweaks via service menus and special remotes. So, you won't be without recourse in the unlikely event that you need or want to adjust the picture more than the readily accessible controls of the consumer model allow.

As an aside, the 8UK will accept 1080p 30 and 1080p 24 via component, but that matters little, if at all. In fact, the 1080p feature is something that you are unlikely to ever use unless you buy a full spec 1080p panel (which have not yet hit the market in the USA) and some suggest that a full spec 1080p panel is a waste of money for most people watching 50" panels from common viewing distances. So, I wouldn't let that issue trouble you.

More importantly, my best advice to you would be to stop overanalyzing. If you have found a panel that you like after doing your research and viewing them in person, there's really no good reason to hesitate on pulling the trigger out of fear that you haven't bought the very best panel you can purchase at that price point. After all, the definition of the "very best panel" will differ from person to person and the PQ (picture quality) distinctions between similarly priced panels are minimal, despite the hype you may read by owners of specific brands.

As in everything else in life, there will always be another product introduced the month after you make your purchase decision that may be bigger and/or better. And, there will always be someone who will say that another product is better than the one you purchased. But, the important thing for you to keep in mind is that you're not likely to have more than one panel on display in your room at the same time. Believe me, the panel you buy will look great once you have it set up and, if your expectations are reasonable, you'll be more than satisfied with the PQ.

Finally, if you're not a videophile, you probably won't tweak your picture too much after the first week of ownership. I suspect that the consumer models address the tweaking needs of almost all buyers. And, if you're not thrilled with the tweaking options, an ISF calibrator can access the tweaks via service menus and special remotes. So, you won't be without recourse in the unlikely event that you need or want to adjust the picture more than the readily accessible controls of the consumer model allow.

Thanks jsf. I do have a tendency to over-analyze. I'm just like that on purchases, especially ones of this magnitude. It's good to hear that someone can calibrate it if needed. And I really did love the panel, and so did my wife!!

You've been extremely helpful! And today a found a price on the total package, display, warranty, and shipping for a price that is acceptable to me (read, "good")! :)

So thank you for the encouragement! If I pull the trigger (which I probably will), I'll certainly post here when I set it up and rave about how much I like it and thank you for pushing me over the edge!!!

Thanks again!!! :)

Thanks jsf. I do have a tendency to over-analyze. I'm just like that on purchases, especially ones of this magnitude. It's good to hear that someone can calibrate it if needed. And I really did love the panel, and so did my wife!!

You've been extremely helpful! And today a found a price on the total package, display, warranty, and shipping for a price that is acceptable to me (read, "good")! :)

So thank you for the encouragement! If I pull the trigger (which I probably will), I'll certainly post here when I set it up and rave about how much I like it and thank you for pushing me over the edge!!!

Thanks again!!! :)

My pleasure. I'm sure you'll love the panel that you purchase, no matter what brand you buy. There's nothing like HDTV and you're in for a real treat.

Just out of curiousity, does anyone know if there are delays with Panasonic shipping the px60u panels?

I'm hoping to "pre-order" one today from a local independent store, and my only conern is when it will actually come in. The guy said they were told they'd get them in 2 weeks, but he said he doesn't trust anything Panasonic says. At least he was honest.

Should I expect it will be much longer than that??

Just out of curiousity, does anyone know if there are delays with Panasonic shipping the px60u panels?

I'm hoping to "pre-order" one today from a local independent store, and my only conern is when it will actually come in. The guy said they were told they'd get them in 2 weeks, but he said he doesn't trust anything Panasonic says. At least he was honest.

Should I expect it will be much longer than that??Delays? Maybe, but then I waited about 2 months to get my TH-50PHD8UK monitor. For someone with little patience, that was a rough 2 months. :) I would guess that it might be a good idea to be ready to wait --- but who knows for certain...

Biggest Advantage? The "biggest" differences between Panasonic's consumer and commercial models? There are many, not just tweakability. Actually, tweakability is a minor difference in my book. But like jsf commented, after you get it dialed in the way you like, tweaking's not typically something most people would be majorly concerned with. I agree that either consumer or commercial would basically provide an excellent picture. Boils down to personal preference?

However, there ARE several other differences, which may or may not be of importance to you. The Panasonic website pretty much spells out the individual features of both the consumer plasma TV and commercial plasma monitor. For example, the 50PHD is more expandable. It offers many different terminal boards that perform many different jobs. If you won't EVER need that it is not a major factor. But, it definitely doesn't hurt?

Also, the 50PHD has PIP. Personally, that isn't a big deal to me. I am not a big fan of watching PIP. If I wanted to view two (or more) signals (channels) at the same time, I'd rather have two (or more) monitors... Kind of like Elvis did.

The PX60U has a built-in tuner. That might or might not be very important --- depending upon how you will use it? The tuner also has QAM so that, for example, if your cable company supplies clear signals of HD channels (such as local channels) then you will be able to view them directly with no STB. Might be handy if the set had PIP? :) Of course, you can always use an external tuner capable of QAM with a 50PHD... With me, I don't use an external antenna for HD reception and a built-in tuner wasn't a feature that I found important. If you have a STB (cable or satellite) then the built-in tuner seems redundent to me.

And then there is audio. The PX60U and 50PHD both come with built in audio amplifiers. The PX60U also includes speakers (if you will). I really can't see ANY purpose to having a set with 20-watt speakers with 10% THD. I find that the audio part of A/V is equally important to the video. I couldn't see any reason why I should buy a set that included two speakers. Since I have a 7.1 dolby digital audio receiver --- I would NEVER use the built-in amp or speakers. I much prefer the "look" of a monitor sans speakers too. But, I have to admit that I don't "see" where the built-in speakers are on the PX60U. Are they immediately below the screen? That might explain why it has such a large "frame".

Speaking of aesthetics? Obviously each has their own preferances in this department. But, in my case, the 50PHD "looks" much nicer than the PX60U. Hands-down? YMMV. :D

Oh yeah, the PX60U has the SD Card slot for displaying still picture slide shows. The 50PHD does NOT have that feature. Big deal, or no big deal? :p I input jpg files via my Denon A/V receiver... But, a built-in card slot seems like it would be really handy though?

Finally, doesn't "home srvice" come with the warranty with the consumer model?

Yet, since you posted your question in a thread titled My 50PHD8UK Impressions --- you might expect to get more pro-50PHD (biased) viewpoints like mine. ;)

Boils down to how you'll use it? No way for anyone but you to figure that out and it would help to have a crystal ball? :)

Delays? Maybe, but then I waited about 2 months to get my TH-50PHD8UK monitor. For someone with little patience, that was a rough 2 months. :) I would guess that it might be a good idea to be ready to wait --- but who knows for certain...

Biggest Advantage? The "biggest" differences between Panasonic's consumer and commercial models? There are many, not just tweakability. Actually, tweakability is a minor difference in my book. But like jsf commented, after you get it dialed in the way you like, tweaking's not typically something most people would be majorly concerned with. I agree that either consumer or commercial would basically provide an excellent picture. Boils down to personal preference?

However, there ARE several other differences, which may or may not be of importance to you. The Panasonic website pretty much spells out the individual features of both the consumer plasma TV and commercial plasma monitor. For example, the 50PHD is more expandable. It offers many different terminal boards that perform many different jobs. If you won't EVER need that it is not a major factor. But, it definitely doesn't hurt?

Also, the 50PHD has PIP. Personally, that isn't a big deal to me. I am not a big fan of watching PIP. If I wanted to view two (or more) signals (channels) at the same time, I'd rather have two (or more) monitors... Kind of like Elvis did.

The PX60U has a built-in tuner. That might or might not be very important --- depending upon how you will use it? The tuner also has QAM so that, for example, if your cable company supplies clear signals of HD channels (such as local channels) then you will be able to view them directly with no STB. Might be handy if the set had PIP? :) Of course, you can always use an external tuner capable of QAM with a 50PHD... With me, I don't use an external antenna for HD reception and a built-in tuner wasn't a feature that I found important. If you have a STB (cable or satellite) then the built-in tuner seems redundent to me.

And then there is audio. The PX60U and 50PHD both come with built in audio amplifiers. The PX60U also includes speakers (if you will). I really can't see ANY purpose to having a set with 20-watt speakers with 10% THD. I find that the audio part of A/V is equally important to the video. I couldn't see any reason why I should buy a set that included two speakers. Since I have a 7.1 dolby digital audio receiver --- I would NEVER use the built-in amp or speakers. I much prefer the "look" of a monitor sans speakers too. But, I have to admit that I don't "see" where the built-in speakers are on the PX60U. Are they immediately below the screen? That might explain why it has such a large "frame".

Speaking of aesthetics? Obviously each has their own preferances in this department. But, in my case, the 50PHD "looks" much nicer than the PX60U. Hands-down? YMMV. :D

Oh yeah, the PX60U has the SD Card slot for displaying still picture slide shows. The 50PHD does NOT have that feature. Big deal, or no big deal? :p I input jpg files via my Denon A/V receiver... But, a built-in card slot seems like it would be really handy though?

Finally, doesn't "home srvice" come with the warranty with the consumer model?

Yet, since you posted your question in a thread titled My 50PHD8UK Impressions --- you might expect to get more pro-50PHD (biased) viewpoints like mine. ;)

Boils down to how you'll use it? No way for anyone but you to figure that out and it would help to have a crystal ball? :)

Thanks for listing all of these differences, Techophobe. I didn't go into details as I assumed that the person asking the question had some familiarity with the 2 panels. Regardless, your response was far better and more informative than mine.

Thanks for listing all of these differences, Techophobe. I didn't go into details as I assumed that the person asking the question had some familiarity with the 2 panels. Regardless, your response was far better and more informative than mine.Yet, it all boils down to the question of what "YOU" need. :)

And I'm sure that there are other advantages/differences...

Fact is that I need a crystal ball to figure out what I "need" and what I'll need in the future... ("want" is equivalent to "need"? )

It's never an easy question to get an answer to is it? But as you accurately noted --- there really isn't a "WRONG" answer since either one will result in tremendous video pleasure and enjoyment. :D

It's so darned easy to over-analyse --- but also lots of fun if it doesn't make you crazy.

Fact is that I need a crystal ball to figure out what I "need" and what I'll need in the future... ("want" is equivalent to "need"? )

Yeah, that would really nice! ;)

It's so darned easy to over-analyse --- but also lots of fun if it doesn't make you crazy.

You're telling me...man, I've been driving myself nuts trying to figure out exactly what to get. I'd boiled it down to NEC XR5, XM5, Panny 60U, 8UK, and 9UK (?? or whatever they're going to call the next commercial), and the next NEC commercial as well.

And to be honest, I've really had a difficult time choosing. I really wanted to knock out the XM5 b/c it was only DVI and no HDMI. Not sure that is a big issue except the fact that the DVI didn't support 1080p as input. Now, that doesn't seem to be as big an issue anyway.

I've heard the scalers in the NECs are just kick-butt, especially in the new comm model coming out this fall. But when all is said and done, I just don't feel comfortable making my first large TV purchase a blind date, if you will. If I can't see it (which I couldn't find anyone who had it), then I can't drop 3.5K on it.

And with the Panny's, it has really come down to price. I've already gone over what I wanted to spend, and so I have to keep that in mind. It would be "nice" to have PC Input, or blades to choose what I want. And it would be nice to have the all-black frame, as I like that look better. And I don't care about the speakers b/c I have a $2500 sound set-up that isn't even 5.1 (yet ;)). As for the 60u, I don't care about the cable card slot either.

So really, I guess it boiled down to price. I haven't heard that the scalers are betting in the 8UK than the 60u, and I got to see the 60u in the store.

If I could get the 8UK w/stand, 5 yr Philips in home warranty, with an HDMI blade (and preferably a PC Input blade as well, but I'll leave that out of this 'quote') for the number listed above (not the audio), then I believe I would go for that one instead!

But such is life. If I can find another deal before my 60u ships to my house, I can cancel my order with the local independent shop, no restocking (b/c he couldn't even tell me for sure when it would be coming in--said he was told 2 weeks, but doesn't trust anything Panny says).

Thanks for laying out all the differences, though. It was very helpful!!

I'm sure I'll be thrilled when the TV arrives. And I just can't wait. I'm pretty impatient as well.

:D

Yeah, that would really nice! ;) If I could get the 8UK w/stand, 5 yr Philips in home warranty, with an HDMI blade (and preferably a PC Input blade as well, but I'll leave that out of this 'quote') for the number listed above (not the audio), then I believe I would go for that one instead! :D
For what it's worth --- the TH-50PHD8UK comes with the PC (VGA) connection "fixed", leaving three slots for use with optional blades. Slot #3 cannot have HDMI or DVI or composite boards... Mine has the component blade in it...

Other than having to wait, it sounds like you have it pretty well figured out? I've been told that patience is a virtue, but I don't believe so. ;)

Can you twiddle your thumbs? :D

For what it's worth --- the TH-50PHD8UK comes with the PC (VGA) connection "fixed", leaving three slots for use with optional blades. Slot #3 cannot have HDMI or DVI or composite boards... Mine has the component blade in it...

Yeah, I forgot about that. The only thing that really makes me worry anymore about going for the 60u over the 8UK is the lack of ability to have multiple settings per input.

I would really like to be able to set "daytime" and "nighttime" video settings for each input, because lighting is drastically different during the day than at night. And my wife likes the blinds open. :( I'm a software developer, so I love to dwell in the dark. ;)

Other than having to wait, it sounds like you have it pretty well figured out?

All but. The nice thing is that if I change my mind before the TV arrives, I can get a full refund, no restocking fee. So, if, in the next 2-?? weeks I change my mind, I'm safe!

I've been told that patience is a virtue, but I don't believe so. ;)

I believe it, but I fail miserably at it! :D

Can you twiddle your thumbs? :D

I've actually got pretty good at that at work a couple months ago, but if I have to start doing it again during the day, this is going to be a long 2-?? weeks. :eek:

I would really like to be able to set "daytime" and "nighttime" video settings for each input, because lighting is drastically different during the day than at night. And my wife likes the blinds open. :( I'm a software developer, so I love to dwell in the dark. ;)

...this is going to be a long 2-?? weeks. :eek:

Since my 50" monitor is pretty much the focal point in my "theater" room (with everything else balancing out) the determining factor that swung my decision --- was the way the monitor physically looks. The largish silver frame on the consumer models is a bit much for me, sort of like bling-bling? :) Not my thing...

Of course if you keep your room dark enough it won't make so much of a difference. Maybe you can train your wife to carry a flashlight? :D

The way it sounds to me, you might be in for more than a short delay? :confused: How long before you say "enough"? Or, will it be a matter of: "Now that I've waited this long, I might as well just stick it out."

Of course what if it comes in next week? :eek:

The Agony and the Ecstasy ! ;)

Yeah, I forgot about that. The only thing that really makes me worry anymore about going for the 60u over the 8UK is the lack of ability to have multiple settings per input.

I would really like to be able to set "daytime" and "nighttime" video settings for each input, because lighting is drastically different during the day than at night. And my wife likes the blinds open. :( I'm a software developer, so I love to dwell in the dark. ;)

All but. The nice thing is that if I change my mind before the TV arrives, I can get a full refund, no restocking fee. So, if, in the next 2-?? weeks I change my mind, I'm safe!

I believe it, but I fail miserably at it! :D

I've actually got pretty good at that at work a couple months ago, but if I have to start doing it again during the day, this is going to be a long 2-?? weeks. :eek:
thephatp.
I was in the same boat as you... vascillating between several different models including the NEC's.

My solution:
Today, my 50" 8UK arrives and I'm psyched!

We have several 8UK's at work (as well as 7UY's etc.). I know this model pretty well, so I went with what I knew instead of an unknown (I couldn't see - get to - a nearby NEC). I didn't want the 60U because of the lack of adjustability and that godawful silver. That said, I helped a friend set one up... and the PQ is excellent.

I ordered my 8UK from Costco online. It only took a couple weeks to get to me (as opposed to the 20 business-day quote). My stand arrives tomorrow and my 8-series HDMI card arrives next week (if all goes well).

Being that it is a Costco purchase, I have no worries about returns or issues. That was my solution. Seemed like the best of both worlds to me. :D

Good luck.

shane

What can you tell us about the HDMI card? Where and good price?

What can you tell us about the HDMI card? Where and good price?
I ordered the TY-FB8HM board from CostCentral. It was way below MSRP and it should be arriving to the warehouse today or tomorrow. Then to me next week.

shane

Thanks and good deal.

I ordered my 8UK from Costco online. It only took a couple weeks to get to me (as opposed to the 20 business-day quote). My stand arrives tomorrow and my 8-series HDMI card arrives next week (if all goes well).

Being that it is a Costco purchase, I have no worries about returns or issues. That was my solution. Seemed like the best of both worlds to me. :D

Good luck.

shane


Hey Shane, thanks for the reply. I think I've almost been talked into getting the 8UK now, so I'm still not 100% decided. If you've seen the 60u, how does the color compare? I think the 60u has many more colors, correct? I just wonder how this might affect video games and such.

Also, I've noticed many people mentioning that they bought it from costco's online store (www.costco.com, right?), but every time I've checked, it hasn't been listed there. I can't find the 8UK on their website. Are you using a different url? If so, could you PM me a link to where you're shopping.

Thanks for the help!

Hey Shane, thanks for the reply. I think I've almost been talked into getting the 8UK now, so I'm still not 100% decided. If you've seen the 60u, how does the color compare? I think the 60u has many more colors, correct? I just wonder how this might affect video games and such.

Also, I've noticed many people mentioning that they bought it from costco's online store (www.costco.com, right?), but every time I've checked, it hasn't been listed there. I can't find the 8UK on their website. Are you using a different url? If so, could you PM me a link to where you're shopping.

Thanks for the help!
As of this morning the 50" is not listed :( ... but the 42 adn 65 are.
http://www.costco.com/Common/Category.aspx?cat=2341&eCat=BC|79|2341&whse=BC&topnav=

I have not seen the 8UK and the 60U next to each other... nor with the same source material, so I wouldn't even begin to venture a guess as to how they compare.

Sorry I couldn't be more help.

shane

***** CAN ANYONE HELP? *****

Sorry to start a post like that, but I really need help fast. I was about to order my 8UK, and I started chatting with an agent on a site, and they said the RepairMaster RMT45000 will NO LONGER apply to Plasma TVs.

Can someone confirm this? All the sites I've looked at and viewed their accessories are only offering this warrant along with the producted. I'd be really angry if I ordered the TV and warranty, only to find out the warranty wouldn't be honored.

Thanks

"...they said the RepairMaster RMT45000 will NO LONGER apply to Plasma TVs.

Can someone confirm this? All the sites I've looked at and viewed their accessories are only offering this warrant along with the producted. I'd be really angry if I ordered the TV and warranty, only to find out the warranty wouldn't be honored.

ThanksSorry thephatp, but the best advice I can offer is to skip getting the Extended (2nd-Party) Warranty. If the dealer selling the monitor says that RepairMaster no longer applies to plasma TVs then I would "guess" that it is true... Who else could know better? Maybe if you are doubtful, talk to a different salesperson.

The Panasonic 1-year parts & labor warranty was good enough for me. AMEX doubles that, but I've never had to use that. Knock on wood...

I wouldn't put a lot of faith (or value) in extended warranties (insurance) offered by any warranty type company. YMMV.

Lots of people swear by Costco. You might check them out? I preferred to pay less.

When I want to gamble, I go to Vegas. I don't play keno or the lottery... ;)

I LIKE IT!!

Went from a 42" ED to the 50", dvds look great right outta the box...even with
settings turned down for breakin. The biggest thing I notice is the absence of
rainbows around objects in dark scenes. Comcast HD looks incredible depending
on the content and we all know what SD looks like.

How many hours before I consider calibration?

Is the PHD8UK series equivalent to the PHD8EK series found in Europe?
(EK is black frame, ES is silver frame)

Ok, I finally ordered the 50" and 42" (keep trying at Costco. The 50" disappeared just before I was about to pull the trigger. I was relieved to find it listed later that night and I snatched it up. You might see it again, but keep checking the site).

Anyways, these are the things I want to be ABLE to hook up to the monitor:

DirecTV HD receiver (HDMI or component)
DirectTV non-HD DVR (RCA/S-Video only)
DVD (RCA/S-Video only right now, but may upgrade this soon)
Camcorder (RCA/S-Video)

I know I can hook up the HD receiver via component for now, and I guess I can get an HDMI blade. I understand you can put an adapter on the RGB inputs to accept component.

Since I have so many inputs that need RCA jacks, what are my options? Is it correct that I can get an A/V receiver that can accept RCA inputs, and then connect that receiver to the monitor?

In that scenario, let's say I get an HDMI blade and I connect a Denon 4806 receiver to it via HDMI. Would I then toggle the inputs by controlling the receiver? In other words, if Input1 is HDMI, would I just leave the receiver on Input 1, and then change in the puts using the receiver?

Thanks. Sorry, for the inputs for this monitor really confuse me. I just want to know what my options are.

Well...
I took half the day off yesterday to receive the monster.
It came unscathed and being that I have not received the 8-series HDMI board yet, I hooked the Comcrap HD-STB up to the PC input, and my Pio Elite 79avi up to the component input.

I’ve got to tell you… this is just about everything I expected it to be. Even the wife was amazed at the image (dialed WAY down from outtathebox)… especially compared to the Pio POS I had previously. Detail is great, even at 7’-8’ (it’ll be further back once we get the new credenza), and the colours are dead on. :)

Shadow detail is good. Blacks are dark, but not ink-black. Do they improve?

I have dialed the ‘brightness’ down to where the BTB pluge just disappears. I have also played with the Black Extension control in the advanced menu and it only seems to drop all the shadow detail out of sight. In other words, I wish this unit would actually produce a black as dark as the screen when it is off, but it doesn’t seem to be able. Any tips here? Any settings that I’m missing? :confused:

This is a gorgeous unit, and the PQ is stunning and for the most part what I have come to know from the units here at work. My only concern is the black. Being that it produces one of, if not THE best black in the industry, I’m wondering if plasma’s just don’t ever get to CRT level. Hmm… :confused:

Anyway, realize that what I did last night was ‘examine’ and adjust the unit. I ‘watched’ nothing. In other words, I was looking for faults. I was looking for settings that I could correct. I did not ‘watch’ something so as to immerse myself in the content. I have a feeling that as soon as I put on my first DVD to view, I’ll be engrossed in the beauty of the image and I won’t even notice that the black is not ink-black. That should happen this evening. I’ll let you know.

Generally... :D :D

Cheers

shane

Edit: I wanted to also let you know that the unit was assembled in Mexico and has a April 2006 date on it. Fresh as can be!
Edit 2: No IR! The Pio would have IR from a menu being displayed for 5 seconds! :mad: This baby exhibits NONE! I had menu's on for minutes at a time... and no IR whatsoever. :D

Anyone with an explanation of the difference bewtween the BNC and VGA component inputs? Can you get adapters to allow RCA jacks to use these inputs?

Thanks.
Yes, you can get gold plated BNC to RCA adapters at Radioshack for pretty cheap. All you have to do is plug them in and you're good to go.

My 50PHD8UK is arriving next week, and just wanted to thank all the people on this thread for the great info.

Shane55,

I cannot WAIT till your series 8 board arrives!!! I have wanted for so long for someone to confirm what jsf2001 has been telling us with regard to the improvement in PQ and the reduction of false contouring when the eight series panels are matched to the HDMI board.

I am beginning to hear that the 9UK's will have the same specs as the PX60/600 with respect to number of grayscale steps and color depth. If that is so, then the 8UK that you just purchased is as good as it gets, short of the full 1080p units that are on the horizon.

Congratulations and keep the info coming!

Well...
Shadow detail is good. Blacks are dark, but not ink-black. Do they improve?



I would not pass judgement on the black level until you have spent some time calibrating. Realize that all signal black's are not created equal and it is sometimes that the encoded black is simply not very "black". Black levels may not reach the levels of the very best HD CRT's, but properly calibrated I believe it will equal or best most CRT's out there. I have seen reputable reviews that included black level measurements of the 7UY that were the equal of the reviewer's reference CRT. I do take that info with a grain of salt, however, since I suspect the CRT would handily win in the detail department at equal black levels.

For me, the 7UY supplies very adequate black levels in a darkened room and I understand the 8UY represents an incremental improvement. That for me would simply be icing on the cake as I am already satisfied.

I realize you may feel differently, but I reccomend you take some time to tweak before you pass final judgement. Good luck, and I hope you enjoy your new panel.

Oh, BTW, IR is a NON-issue with these panels! I have NEVER seen it with the panel on. Within the first 100 hrs. or so, I did see "ghosting" of paused images when I turned the panel off and turned the lights completely off in the room. The image could barely be seen for perhaps 15-30 min. as I recall. I say "ghosting" because I don't think it even counts as IR. I literally have no instructions to the wife or kid regarding STB pausing and they abuse the heck out of "pause" on the DVR without ANY adverse effects. I admit though that I was careful during the first 500-1000 hrs., but not obsessive-compulsive about it. After 1000 hrs. it has ceased to be any concern at all. Good Luck!

I just couldn't help myself. I cancelled my order for the 60u and went for the 50PHD8UK! Should be here in 5-6 days! I JUST CAN'T WAIT!!!! :D :D :D

And now...back to your regularly scheduled program...

I just couldn't help myself. I cancelled my order for the 60u and went for the 50PHD8UK! Should be here in 5-6 days! I JUST CAN'T WAIT!!!! :D :D :D

And now...back to your regularly scheduled program...

Oh man...the 600u's are out :eek:

Ok, I finally ordered the 50" and 42" (keep trying at Costco. The 50" disappeared just before I was about to pull the trigger. I was relieved to find it listed later that night and I snatched it up. You might see it again, but keep checking the site).

Anyways, these are the things I want to be ABLE to hook up to the monitor:

DirecTV HD receiver (HDMI or component)
DirectTV non-HD DVR (RCA/S-Video only)
DVD (RCA/S-Video only right now, but may upgrade this soon)
Camcorder (RCA/S-Video)

I know I can hook up the HD receiver via component for now, and I guess I can get an HDMI blade. I understand you can put an adapter on the RGB inputs to accept component.

Since I have so many inputs that need RCA jacks, what are my options? Is it correct that I can get an A/V receiver that can accept RCA inputs, and then connect that receiver to the monitor?

In that scenario, let's say I get an HDMI blade and I connect a Denon 4806 receiver to it via HDMI. Would I then toggle the inputs by controlling the receiver? In other words, if Input1 is HDMI, would I just leave the receiver on Input 1, and then change in the puts using the receiver?

Thanks. Sorry, for the inputs for this monitor really confuse me. I just want to know what my options are.
Harden,

Congrats! I have a Th-50PHD8UK and a Denon AVR-4306. I input my HD satelite receiver and DVD into the Denon via HDMI (one HDMI input is unused). I then output from the Denon into the HDMI (or DVI) blade on my monitor (INPUT:1).

I also input several composite video sources (DirecTiVos, etc) directly into the monitor (INPUT:2) via S-Video using the composite blade.

For no reason other than because I can, I also output component from my Denon into the component blade on my monitor (INPUT:3).

Lastly, I input my PC into the monitor's VGA input (INPUT:PC)

It works for me. :) There are OF COURSE many other ways to do the same job.

Oh man...the 600u's are out :eek:

I think he made a very good choice with the 8UK.

I think he made a very good choice with the 8UK.
Ditto. :D

Gooddoc.
Yup, like I said, I'll give this beauty a bit more time, and see what the HDMI board has to offer before I make any 'judgements'. So far these have been observations based on intense falut-finding scrutiny. ;)

Yes, last night I saw many different levels of source 'blacks'. The worst offender happened to be a baseball game on INHD. Even in the deepest regions of the shadowed stands there was only a medium-dark grey. As for true black source material I was going by my 79avi and DVE as well as THX optomizers with pluge and other BTB tests. That said, it's still early in the testing. I was just wondering if there were some tips for improving the black w/o killing all shadow detail. Service menu?? :confused:

Anyway... I can't wait to leave work, get home and push this thing some more. Maybe a movie this evening.

And yes, the absence of ghosting (as you call it) or IR is truly a relief as that old Pio was so bad it was laughable.

cheers

shane

Ps... just to make myself perfectly clear. I really love this monitor. I'm trying not to focus solely on the 'negative', it's just that I obsess. :o
I'm interested in just making this PDP as good as it can possibly get (until it's ISF'd) :D

I think he made a very good choice with the 8UK.

By no means is it a bad choice but the 600u seems more along the lines by somebody that was going to purchase a 60u.

By no means is it a bad choice but the 600u seems more along the lines by somebody that was going to purchase a 60u.

HAHA....Elemental, it's time to come to the dark side (literally) and get a commercial panny :D

By no means is it a bad choice but the 600u seems more along the lines by somebody that was going to purchase a 60u.

Understandable. The only reason I purchased the 60u was because I got a great deal on it, and they said it would be at least two weeks before it came in. So to catch the deal, I figured I could purchase it, and then cancel if I found the 8UK for my budget from somewhere else. And the sales guy (local independent in Austin) even encouraged me to shop around, because he didn't know exactly when they'd get the panels in. (I appreciate his candidness.)

So that's what I did. And I just so happens that I found a great deal on the 8UK as well, and it fit in my budget. So I jumped on it. And for getting a better panel IMHO at the same price, and shipped at my door in 6 days, man, you just can't beat that!!! :D

Did I mention that I CAN'T WAIT??? :eek:

HAHA....Elemental, it's time to come to the dark side (literally) and get a commercial panny :D

I am on the dark side, I have a 500u remember. :p
Hehe....It would be nice if I actually saw one. :D
Maybe Costco will have them on display someday.
I am looking for my next plasma now.....not sure what to do! :eek:

Gooddoc.
Yup, like I said, I'll give this beauty a bit more time, and see what the HDMI board has to offer before I make any 'judgements'. So far these have been observations based on intense falut-finding scrutiny. ;)

Yes, last night I saw many different levels of source 'blacks'. The worst offender happened to be a baseball game on INHD. Even in the deepest regions of the shadowed stands there was only a medium-dark grey. As for true black source material I was going by my 79avi and DVE as well as THX optomizers with pluge and other BTB tests. That said, it's still early in the testing. I was just wondering if there were some tips for improving the black w/o killing all shadow detail. Service menu?? :confused:

Anyway... I can't wait to leave work, get home and push this thing some more. Maybe a movie this evening.

And yes, the absence of ghosting (as you call it) or IR is truly a relief as that old Pio was so bad it was laughable.

cheers

shane

Ps... just to make myself perfectly clear. I really love this monitor. I'm trying not to focus solely on the 'negative', it's just that I obsess. :o
I'm interested in just making this PDP as good as it can possibly get (until it's ISF'd) :D

You can use the black extension and the gamma setting to get deeper blacks...The colors don't 'pop' on the 8UK like it did on my NEC. The reds and greens seem more subdued, so the colorful HD channels aren't as vivid...but I don't watch a lot of INHD so it doesn't matter to me. Movies look better than anything I have seen on a plasma for sure . Details in dark areas are even better than the 7UY, which I thought was reference quality to start with :D

I am on the dark side, I have a 500u remember. :p
Hehe....It would be nice if I actually saw one. :D
Maybe Costco will have them on display someday.
I am looking for my next plasma now.....not sure what to do! :eek:

You got the same disease as me :D

But honestly, I would pick the 500U over any currently available consumer model I see in stores today, including the new panny 60U (even with the 720p resolution problem) :D

You got the same disease as me :D

But honestly, I would pick the 500U over any currently available consumer model I see in stores today, including the new panny 60U (even with the 720p resolution problem) :D

Yeah..I know. I'm doomed now.
I was thinking a 600u might be nice.... :D
I still question the 720p thing, btw. ;)

I still question the 720p thing, btw. ;)


Hmm. Must of liked that smoked crow, huh? :)

I'm sure I could rustle up some more for ya.... ;)

Hmm. Must of liked that smoked crow, huh? :)

I'm sure I could rustle up some more for ya.... ;)

Not used to it so I tossed it. :D
I am gonna dig more into this. One upscaled pattern does not do it for me really.
Do you think it is a video bandwidth issue?
I will post any results to the pattern thread when I find something. :)

Yeah..I know. I'm doomed now.
I was thinking a 600u might be nice.... :D
I still question the 720p thing, btw. ;)


Trust me. It's all over....... :eek:

Yeah...the 58 inch looks like the ideal size for your home :D

Not used to it so I tossed it. :D
I am gonna dig more into this. One upscaled pattern does not do it for me really.
Do you think it is a video bandwidth issue?
I will post any results to the pattern thread when I find something. :)

trust me, it's over :D

Trust me. It's all over....... :eek:

Yeah...the 58 inch looks like the ideal size for your home :D

We shall see ;)

Yes, the 58 600u was going to be my first purchase but I was impatient. :D

Yeah...the 58 inch looks like the ideal size for your home :D

That's kind of spooky. :eek:

You can use the black extension and the gamma setting to get deeper blacks...The colors don't 'pop' on the 8UK like it did on my NEC. The reds and greens seem more subdued, so the colorful HD channels aren't as vivid...but I don't watch a lot of INHD so it doesn't matter to me. Movies look better than anything I have seen on a plasma for sure . Details in dark areas are even better than the 7UY, which I thought was reference quality to start with :D

I actually like vivid pictures in certain programming/gaming. When you say the channels aren't as vivid, is that simply because you have toned it down?

I'm very much a gaming enthusiast, though I haven't had time to do it much. I watch mostly HD sports, some SD, and DVD. I'll hopefully start gaming more when I get my new TV. I'm not getting the wrong set if I like the picture a little more vivid and vibrant, am I? I can always adjust this, right??

Ok i have been following this tread since the beginning and this is likely a redundant question, but here it goes.......

Is there any reason to go with the panasonic th-50px60u vs the th--50phd8uk?

I am going to plunk my cash down in the next couple of weeks and am having a really hard time deciding....

I am not sure the "viera" technology improvements will make that much of a difference for me or not?

Both panels are 50 inches, one an 8th generation panel, the next a 9th.
I had a look at the 50px60 at a brick an mortar store and boy does it look good.

The price of the consumer 50px60 may be a bit lower than the 8uk overall with built in hdmi ports rather than an extra cost to get one, and support for incoming 1080p signals if they ever arrive.

One misgiving about the newer consumer set is that there is no screen saver or pixel shifting technology to limit image retention, etc.

I will be watching mostly sd programming and dvd's until i can convince myself to add satelite again or my provider can offer hdtv over dsl lines (mtstv if anyone is familiar).

I hope someone could guide me a little as i have researched this to death and could really use an opinion, rather than the continuous headache from over analyzing.

I also realize that either panel will look great compared to my old rear projection rca 46" big screen.

I actually like vivid pictures in certain programming/gaming. When you say the channels aren't as vivid, is that simply because you have toned it down?

I'm very much a gaming enthusiast, though I haven't had time to do it much. I watch mostly HD sports, some SD, and DVD. I'll hopefully start gaming more when I get my new TV. I'm not getting the wrong set if I like the picture a little more vivid and vibrant, am I? I can always adjust this, right??

I have found that unlike the Panny 60U, the 8UK's default colors and general image is toned down. The best analogy I can use is that the 8UK image looks very much like a photograph and does not have the extra sharpness and contrast that the Panny 60U or some of the Pioneers have. I have also noticed that the settings by default are toned down on the 8UK, so you could crank them up if you like, but not sure how they will look in bright mode - say compared to the 60U.

But in favor of the 8UK, I am yet to see a second of IR, so that would be helpful for gaming. Plus the brightness of the screen is very even and the blacks are pleasing with the least amount of noise or false contouring that I have seen in a plasma - so you could possibly sit closer to the monitor.

Anyway, the 60U or the new Samsungs appear to be brighter than the 8UK, although the 8UK is noticeably brighter than my 7UY model....

I just watched an older movie tonight and must say it looked pretty good :)

Is there any reason to go with the panasonic th-50px60u vs the th--50phd8uk?
The second you unpack and see the 8UK in your home, you'll know you made the right decision. :)

Ok, all this talk about the NEC or the Pio being brighter than the 8UK....
I can't imagine *wanting* a panel that is brighter than this one. I have it dialed way down from 'Cinema' mode and it is plenty bright for me. When I switch to vivid or standard it is WAY too punchy... WAY too bright. Really.

Ok, ok... given that 99% of the time I watch in reduced light or complete darkness, a punchy - bright image would be painful.

Now, if I were to host a Super-Bowl party and had the lights up so the folk would know where to put their beer and chips, ok... then maybe I'd crank it up (a bit). But I can't possibly see needing a more intense image than this.

I watched some INHD and Discovery HD stuff tonight and was blown away! Really! This image was tack-sharp and photo-real. Almost 3-D. It knocked our socks off. Stunning is an understatement. This is one of, if not the best images I've ever seen on any screen... ever.

I've got the HD-STB signal coming into the set via the 15-pin PC input. I can't wait to see the improvement with the HDMI card (you bet I'm hoping!). That said, I almost can't imagine this PQ getting any sharper, clearer or better.

Speaking of HDMI cards: mine has been delayed. :( I'll find out tomorrow if it arrived at the warehouse today... or not.

Meanwhile... thanks to everyone who confirmed what I already knew about the 8UK, and for pushing me just that little bit over the fence. (JohnMR and Plaz especially). :D :D

Cheers

shane

Ok i have been following this tread since the beginning and this is likely a redundant question, but here it goes.......

Is there any reason to go with the panasonic th-50px60u vs the th--50phd8uk?

I am going to plunk my cash down in the next couple of weeks and am having a really hard time deciding....

I am not sure the "viera" technology improvements will make that much of a difference for me or not?

Both panels are 50 inches, one an 8th generation panel, the next a 9th.
I had a look at the 50px60 at a brick an mortar store and boy does it look good.

The price of the consumer 50px60 may be a bit lower than the 8uk overall with built in hdmi ports rather than an extra cost to get one, and support for incoming 1080p signals if they ever arrive.

One misgiving about the newer consumer set is that there is no screen saver or pixel shifting technology to limit image retention, etc.

I will be watching mostly sd programming and dvd's until i can convince myself to add satelite again or my provider can offer hdtv over dsl lines (mtstv if anyone is familiar).

I hope someone could guide me a little as i have researched this to death and could really use an opinion, rather than the continuous headache from over analyzing.

I also realize that either panel will look great compared to my old rear projection rca 46" big screen.
I recommended the 60U to a dear friend because I knew it was the right set for him and his family. It is a consumer unit. It is plug-and-play (mostly). It does not give you the options for picture control that the 8UK does. And for 99% of those who purchase these... like my friend... that is just fine.

If you are a tweaker, forget it. Get the 8UK. If you want the absolute best image you can get (specifically between these two)... the 8UK is your panel. If you want a gorgeous TV lights on or off, TV on or off; forget the 60U.

My friend got the 60U and I set it up for him and dialed it in (and way down). He and his family LOVE this TV! And that is understandable. It has great PQ. It is a great consumer unit and I'd recommend it again. I would not buy one for myself. I can not stand the look of the unit itself. I do not like the picture controls (or lack thereof). I never even considered getting one.

Good luck.
shane

Ok i have been following this tread since the beginning and this is likely a redundant question, but here it goes.......

Is there any reason to go with the panasonic th-50px60u vs the th--50phd8uk?

I will be watching mostly sd programming and dvd's until i can convince myself to add satelite again or my provider can offer hdtv over dsl lines (mtstv if anyone is familiar).

I hope someone could guide me a little as i have researched this to death and could really use an opinion, rather than the continuous headache from over analyzing.

I also realize that either panel will look great compared to my old rear projection rca 46" big screen.Shogun,

My guidance: Stop Analysing! Flip A Coin And Go With Your Gut. Since you have admittedly over analysed this --- how will an "opinion" from some stranger be of any help at this point? Maybe a committee decision? :p But, if it helps you somehow, I say: Get The TH-50PHD8UK. Why? Because that's what I've got and I couldn't be happier. That, IS my opinion. Period. ;)

Your comment about what you'll be watching (SD) concerns me more than which panel you decide to buy. IMO, watching only SD on a plasma is like buying a Porsche and never exceeding the speed limit. Sure, it will blow the doors off your old rear projection RCA (does it even have doors?) but, my "advice" would be to do as I did and WAIT until such time as you have HDTV in one form or another. I actually waited until I could get my local stations in HDTV via DirecTV's Mpeg4.

Fact is, it didn't take me more than a few hours before I started yearning for additional HD programming to be available... (HD Junkie?) Why isn't everything in HD right now? :eek: I'd rather watch HD without TiVo than to watch SD thru my TiVo... THAT is a big deal!!!

I have decided that for me, when I do watch SD --- I prefer watching it undistorted, I mean, without stretching or zooming, etc. At first it really bothered me to have those gray bars but TO ME it looks better than a distorted picture. As a matter of fact, with the gray bars --- the SD picture quality is vibrant & great! Not in the same league as HD though! Might just be me?

In any case, whichever panel you finally decide to get --- I'm sure you'll love it. And, the good news is that unless you get both, you'll never know which one really was the "BEST". :) A "no lose situation"? :D

Ok, all this talk about the NEC or the Pio being brighter than the 8UK....
I can't imagine *wanting* a panel that is brighter than this one. I have it dialed way down from 'Cinema' mode and it is plenty bright for me. When I switch to vivid or standard it is WAY too punchy... WAY too bright. Really.


Cheers

shane

True. This is more of an experimental thing. On a side-by-side, the NEC was a little brighter than the 8UK. The 8UK is brighter than the 7UY....on max brightness. This is probably totally irrelevant for movies, but if you were watching sports in a brightly lit room it may be useful. But even then I don't see anyone using full brightness....

For the need to use sd programming for now is only teporary, the old rear projecion is almost dead (the convergence is too far off and can not be properly corrected for daily viewing).

I will be getting either satellite hd programming or going with my current subscriber for all when available.

I may only get a dvi blade to hook up my computer and run everyting else through the component jacks.

I just spoke with CostCentral. I ordered mine on May 15th.

Panasonic missed the 27th, 30th, the 31st, and now it looks like MAYBE the 3rd.
Panny gave CostCentral 4 dates of *possible* ETA.
June 3rd, 9th, 12th or 14th.
The only thing this means to me is that Panasonic still can not get their $hit together concerning this card. :mad:

At least I get a remarkably good picture with my current connections, but I can not complete all my connections until this blade is installed.

Ugh.

shane

Ps. It's not like I'm suffering without it. :D

I just spoke with CostCentral. I ordered mine on May 15th.

Panasonic missed the 27th, 30th, the 31st, and now it looks like MAYBE the 3rd.
Panny gave CostCentral 4 dates of *possible* ETA.
June 3rd, 9th, 12th or 14th.
The only thing this means to me is that Panasonic still can not get their $hit together concerning this card. :mad:

At least I get a remarkably good picture with my current connections, but I can not complete all my connections until this blade is installed.

Ugh.

shane

Ps. It's not like I'm suffering without it. :D

I got a similar message from VisualApex and offered to ship me the 7 series card if I wanted. I am really tempted, but the panny support person I spoke with said that the 8 series is the only hdmi card they test the 8UK with and hence could not recommend the 7 series :confused:

I am now considering getting the 7 series. Thumbs up or thumbs down on the 7 series with the 8UK? Anyone?

I am now considering getting the 7 series. Thumbs up or
thumbs down on the 7 series with the 8UK? Anyone?


I'm using the 7 series on the 8UK and it works just fine and looks AMAZING. I say go for it and forget about the 8 series.

I got a similar message from VisualApex and offered to ship me the 7 series card if I wanted. I am really tempted, but the panny support person I spoke with said that the 8 series is the only hdmi card they test the 8UK with and hence could not recommend the 7 series :confused:

I am now considering getting the 7 series. Thumbs up or thumbs down on the 7 series with the 8UK? Anyone?
Well Plaz...
As I said: it's not like I'm suffereing without it. It took me *forever* to get this monitor (both in the decision making process and the delivery). I'm currently seeing an amazing picture with the component and PC input connections. Another month or two with out this board will not ruin my life. I'd just rather wait, enjoy what I have and then get the later-series board when it eventually comes in.

shane

Ok, I looked at the pic of the inputs supplied by bruzzi:

http://www.bruzzi.ws/Attachs/vin-3slots8UK.jpg

I have the following devices I want to hook up to an 8UK:

1. DirecTV HD receiver (HDMI or component
2. DirecTV receiver DVR with dual inputs (RCA/S-Video)
3. DVD player (RCA/S-Video, but will probably upgrade to a component/HDMI)
4. PS2, Camcorder (RCA/S-Video)

Assuming I get an HDMI blade for Input 1, I assume I can do the following:

Slot 1 - HDMI for HD receiver
Slot 2 - Tuner #1 of DVR
Slot 3 - DVD player via BNC connector (will upgrade to component player)
Slot 4 - Nothing, since I don't have any other devices that use component (if I do get one, then I get the component/VGA cable).

So that leaves Tuner #2 of the DVR and my PS2. My options are either swapping them in manually into Slot #2 of the 8UK, or buy a good A/V receiver, hook that receiver into the monitor via HDMI in Slot #1, and connect the devices into the receiver.

Do I have everything right? I know I have some old devices, but that's what I need for now.

Lastly, if I go the receiver route, should I definitely get a high end receiver like the Denon 4806 that can accept these analog devices and convert them to HDMI? Will they look great, or is there some degredation of quality?

THANKS!

Lastly, if the price of the Pioneer 5060HD continues to drop, would I be better off with that unit? I really like the Pioneer's detached receiver box.

Also:

The board is Slot 2 has the red/white RCA audio jacks, S-Video and two BNC connectors. I know there are RCA jack adapters, but why are there TWO BNC connectors in Slot 2? Does that mean you can get video from two separate devices in this slot?

"...the panny support person I spoke with said that the 8 series is the only hdmi card they test the 8UK with and hence could not recommend the 7 series :confused:

I am now considering getting the 7 series. Thumbs up or thumbs down on the 7 series with the 8UK? Anyone?
I don't know who you talked with at Panasonic, but that is NOT the information I got when I called them a couple of months back... Just the opposite in fact... The tech I spoke with stressed that the ONLY difference between the TY-FB7HM and the TY-FB8HM was tha additional capability to handle PAL formats and also noted that the FB8HM was not even available in the US. At that time it was either the FB7HM or no HDMI at all.

Yes, there have been numerous discussions (ad nauseum) about how the FB8HM is mysteriously superior to the FB7HM but no one has yet offered any proof of these nebulous claims.

But, if you don't need HDMI then by all means wait... Or, if you need HDMI now, then get the FB7HM now. It works fine. Picture quality with it is stupendously fantastic. :D

Strange, some two or more months later and US dealers still don't have the FB8HM in stock. :p Maybe in a couple more months? :)

Harden: Are you sure about your DirecTV DVR? What make/model is that? I have a couple of Philips DSR708 DirecTivo units, and they have two satellite *inputs* for the two tuners, but there is ONE S-Video output of the DVR, not two. You have two S-Video outputs on your dvr?

I'm using the 7 series on the 8UK and it works just fine and looks AMAZING. I say go for it and forget about the 8 series.


Thanks!

billybob,

You're right. I haven't used the two tuners yet, but you are correct - there is only one S-Video output for the DVR, but separate RCA audio jacks for each tuner.

How would that impact my setup? How does the TV or A/V receiver know how to toggle between the two DVR tuners if they share the share S-Video?

billybob,

You're right. I haven't used the two tuners yet, but you are correct - there is only one S-Video output for the DVR, but separate RCA audio jacks for each tuner.

How would that impact my setup? How does the TV or A/V receiver know how to toggle between the two DVR tuners if they share the share S-Video?

Can you send a picture of the setup? Are you sure you are looking at it correctly?

From what I've found, it looks like there is only one set of outputs for each HDMI, component, RCA, S-Video, and optical. Is this not correct?

Take a look at the back panel and see if it's the same as this:
Article with Image of Back Panel (http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_12_1/directv-hr10-250-hd-dvr-satellite-box-2-2005.html)

If this is it, then you can feed the HDMI to the TV, and then choose between RCA/optical for the sound, and you don't have to worry. You can't watch two shows simultaneously, anyway, except via PIP. And with PIP, you can't hear audio from both.

If you choose to go with a receiver, you can do HDMI and RCA/optical to the receiver, and HDMI ONLY to the TV (if you're using a receiver, I'm assuming you're using speakers with the receiver, as well, in which case, you wouldn't bother with the crappy sound from TV speakers ;) ).

Can you send a picture of the setup? Are you sure you are looking at it correctly?

From what I've found, it looks like there is only one set of outputs for each HDMI, component, RCA, S-Video, and optical. Is this not correct?

Take a look at the back panel and see if it's the same as this:
Article with Image of Back Panel (http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_12_1/directv-hr10-250-hd-dvr-satellite-box-2-2005.html)




I think that is the HDTIVO, If I read his post correctly, he has the standard def version. That does have two audio outs, but they are not for each tuner...it is just simply two audio outs (for whatever reason).

As for switching between tuners...you can just hit the down arrow on the remote and the box itself switches tuners. However, if you are asking if the box can output two images to use separately in PIP boxes or two separate tvs, the answer is no. Hope that helps.

I don't know who you talked with at Panasonic, but that is NOT the information I got when I called them a couple of months back... Just the opposite in fact... The tech I spoke with stressed that the ONLY difference between the TY-FB7HM and the TY-FB8HM was tha additional capability to handle PAL formats and also noted that the FB8HM was not even available in the US. At that time it was either the FB7HM or no HDMI at all.

Yes, there have been numerous discussions (ad nauseum) about how the FB8HM is mysteriously superior to the FB7HM but no one has yet offered any proof of these nebulous claims.

But, if you don't need HDMI then by all means wait... Or, if you need HDMI now, then get the FB7HM now. It works fine. Picture quality with it is stupendously fantastic. :D

Strange, some two or more months later and US dealers still don't have the FB8HM in stock. :p Maybe in a couple more months? :)
I must agree with TechoFobe. I tried calling Panasonic several times and I was told the same thing. I currently have two FB7HM cards in my 8UK and I must say I get an amazing picture. My only concern at this time is how these boards are going to handle 1080-P when I get my PS3 (Blue-Ray) or HD-DVD. :D

I must agree with TechoFobe. I tried calling Panasonic several times and I was told the same thing. I currently have two FB7HM cards in my 8UK and I must say I get an amazing picture. My only concern at this time is how these boards are going to handle 1080-P when I get my PS3 (Blue-Ray) or HD-DVD. :D

The FB7HM does not support 1080p. I'm hoping the FB8HM will, but I'm not sure whether it does or not.

The FB7HM does not support 1080p. I'm hoping the FB8HM will, but I'm not sure whether it does or not.
According to the Panasonic techs, they told me that neither the FB7HM nor the FB8HM would support 1080P. :(
Exactly how will we be able to bring 1080P into the 8UK I don’t know?
I hope they are working on a FB9HM that will handle 1080P. :)
Either way I know that the signal will be down converted by the 8UK because it’s native resolution does not handle 1080P (1,920 X 1,080). :(

According to the Panasonic techs, they told me that neither the FB7HM nor the FB8HM would support 1080P. :(
Exactly how will we be able to bring 1080P into the 8UK I don’t know?
I hope they are working on a FB9HM that will handle 1080P. :)
Either way I know that the signal will be down converted by the 8UK because it’s native resolution does not handle 1080P (1,920 X 1,080). :(

1080P is really a non issue on these panels since they have a decent scaler that will do a nice job on any 1080i source. The Gary Merson (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=608670) tests show that you get all the benefit out of a 1080i source on the Panasonic panels.

1080P matters for 1080P displays and even then only when the source is 1080P or the source has better de-interlacing than the Panel, which is not always the case. For current panels, 1080P is over hyped.

- Rich

Forgive my ignorance and i wish not to thread jack.

What is the known issue with 720p with the th50px60 panels?

I am having problems with finding this information and have really only seen it mentioned in this thread.

It will directly relate to my upcoming purchase in the next few days of that panel or the 50phd8uk

Forgive my ignorance and i wish not to thread jack.

What is the known issue with 720p with the th50px60 panels?

I am having problems with finding this information and have really only seen it mentioned in this thread.

It will directly relate to my upcoming purchase in the next few days of that panel or the 50phd8uk

The known issue is with the 50U/500U series. See http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=680320&page=1&pp=30

What's not been confirmed is whether it's fixed on the 60U/600U models.

Well I just threw down for one of these sexy things today. It is going to be very tough waiting 7 days for it to arrive.

This will be my 4th HDTV at age 22. Is that a record?

Doesn't really add anything to the thread, but I'm excited, and wanted to post something.

Can anybody help with my input question? I'm worried I may have to invest in an A/V receiver.

Thanks.

Ok, I looked at the pic of the inputs supplied by bruzzi:

http://www.bruzzi.ws/Attachs/vin-3slots8UK.jpg

I have the following devices I want to hook up to an 8UK:

1. DirecTV HD receiver (HDMI or component
2. DirecTV receiver DVR with dual inputs (RCA/S-Video)
3. DVD player (RCA/S-Video, but will probably upgrade to a component/HDMI)
4. PS2, Camcorder (RCA/S-Video)

Assuming I get an HDMI blade for Input 1, I assume I can do the following:

Slot 1 - HDMI for HD receiver
Slot 2 - Tuner #1 of DVR
Slot 3 - DVD player via BNC connector (will upgrade to component player)
Slot 4 - Nothing, since I don't have any other devices that use component (if I do get one, then I get the component/VGA cable).

So that leaves Tuner #2 of the DVR and my PS2. My options are either swapping them in manually into Slot #2 of the 8UK, or buy a good A/V receiver, hook that receiver into the monitor via HDMI in Slot #1, and connect the devices into the receiver.

Do I have everything right? I know I have some old devices, but that's what I need for now.

Lastly, if I go the receiver route, should I definitely get a high end receiver like the Denon 4806 that can accept these analog devices and convert them to HDMI? Will they look great, or is there some degredation of quality?

THANKS!

Lastly, if the price of the Pioneer 5060HD continues to drop, would I be better off with that unit? I really like the Pioneer's detached receiver box.

Also:

The board is Slot 2 has the red/white RCA audio jacks, S-Video and two BNC connectors. I know there are RCA jack adapters, but why are there TWO BNC connectors in Slot 2? Does that mean you can get video from two separate devices in this slot?

The two BNC's in slot two:
Left: VIDEO IN
Right: VIDEO OUT

I would recommend trying to get as much into pure digital format (DVI/HDMI) as possible. The rest really doesn't matter how it's hooked up.

Just got back from CC and saw the TH50PX60U on sale for a very good price. It was better than the on-line price. Could be the on-line price included shipping. With a built in tuner, HDMI inputs, speakers, and included stand, it's turning out to be a better deal than the PHD508UK. Although, I still can't stand the physical design of the TH50PX60OU.

Decisions, decisions!

Just got back from CC and saw the TH50PX60U on sale for a very good price. It was better than the on-line price. Could be the on-line price included shipping. With a built in tuner, HDMI inputs, speakers, and included stand, it's turning out to be a better deal than the PHD508UK. Although, I still can't stand the physical design of the TH50PX60OU.

Decisions, decisions!


That's my dilemma as well

...Although, I still can't stand the physical design of the TH50PX60OU.

Decisions, decisions!

This is one of the reasons why I am glad I went with the 50PHD8UK. The *60OU looks *HIDEOUS* as far as I am concerned, even if it might have slightly better picture quality.

I love the way my 50PHD8UK sits on my wall with a thin black bezel. No side speakers also sold me.

That said, this affliction of technology envy that I suffer will condemn me to a life of always being one or two steps behind the best thing out there. It'll bankrupt a guy if we're not careful! ;-)

First post on the boards...don't ask me what took so long! :eek:

I'm researching the 8UK, and there are a couple of questions I'd like to find answers to before pulling the trigger. TIA if you can help!

I have a Windows MCE box that I plan to drive this display from. I currently have the Hauppague PVR-250 and no STB. My questions for 8UK owners that have MCE are:
- Can you comment on your setup and any issues you may have had concerning hooking up the display?
- Are you running an HD tuner card in your MCE box? If so, what kind is it, and how well does it work with the 8UK?

And another general question is:
- Should I be breaking out the subscription to my cable company's HD feed, or if I have a good HD OTA signal, is that more than sufficient to enjoy the 8UK? Right now I have no HD input...

I may have more questions once I see responses...thanks to all!

---blockage

..I have a Windows MCE box that I plan to drive this display from. I currently have the Hauppague PVR-250 and no STB. My questions for 8UK owners that have MCE are:
- Can you comment on your setup and any issues you may have had concerning hooking up the display?
- Are you running an HD tuner card in your MCE box? If so, what kind is it, and how well does it work with the 8UK?

And another general question is:
- Should I be breaking out the subscription to my cable company's HD feed, or if I have a good HD OTA signal, is that more than sufficient to enjoy the 8UK? Right now I have no HD input...

I may have more questions once I see responses...thanks to all!

---blockage

I have a Hauppauge PVR-250 as well, but I don't run Windows MCE - I run XP Pro. I hooked up my 8UK as a monitor through my Geforce 7900 GT's DVI port, using a DVI-tp-VGA connector. I then ran that into my VGA in on my 8UK. Once the screen resolution and sizing was set, it functioned nicely as a 50" monitor, although some fonts and text looked a *LITTLE* fuzzy.

I tried it as a 50" gaming monitor; launched Tomb Raider: Legend and was in 50" heaven. So I can confirm that as a monitor it rocks. With MCE it would actually look better as MCE's GUI is based on a 10-foot interface. Again, I used the VGA input which is basically component-in.

I never tried running my analog PVR-250 on it as it's practically retired since I went HD - which brings me to my next statement: if you don't have the cash then OTA HD is a nice bonus, albeit limited in programming. I pay Comcast for a HD box though because I wanted the PVR and the additional channels. I used to use Snapstream's Beyond TV but no longer use it, as watching TV on my 50" through my Comcast HD box and PVR is preferred (simple and integrated).

I can't live without my HBO series and Battlestar Galactica (new) in HD - OTR doesn't offer that. ;-)

Good luck!

Your MCE box should hookup just fine either via the VGA port or even better, DVI.
As far as how your PC-HD will look, don't expect anything better than what you get on your computer monitor right now except that it will be a whole lot bigger. The type of tuner card has nothing to do with the TV. I am guessing you want to use the MCE for the tuner and the DVR capability.

Hooking it up to the PC is as easy as running the cable (VGA or DVI).

About the HD feed, no matter what, pure digital will always look best.
The order of preference (best to worst):

1. OTA (if in reliable range and only locals)
2. QAM (via basic cable if you're lucky)
3. Compressed whatever HD cable or sat broadcast

1. OTA (if in reliable range and only locals)
2. QAM (via basic cable if you're lucky)
3. Compressed whatever HD cable or sat broadcast

If Comcast is your provider, then it should be listed as #1. No compression and no encryption of locals.

Any QAM tuner will pick up Comcast's feed free of charge.
If you so desire to get Comcast's HD package, it is only an additional $5/month more than your current level of service.

Well I just threw down for one of these sexy things today....

This will be my 4th HDTV at age 22. Is that a record?


You be the pinkest player in town.

If Comcast is your provider, then it should be listed as #1. No compression and no encryption of locals.I'm in Phoenix, so I have Cox as my provider (their basic non-digital package without a STB). I'll have to do some research on their HD programming to see if they compress the stream, etc... <edit>I just found the Phoenix thread in the HD forum here, so that's cool. So since there's no integrated QAM tuner in the 8UK, I guess I'll need to upgrade to the Cox Digital package with STB to get the unencrypted channels, right (not available thru the PVR-250)? </edit>

I'm still a bit confused on HD, but I'm getting it now... What I originally thought, <cough>, was that if I picked up an HD tuner card for the MCE box, I'd plug in the OTA feed, and have an output directly from that card <sheepish grin>. Foolishness like that aside, what kind of a picture would I expect to see with an HD tuner card in the MCE box, output through the DVI (or VGA) on my GeForce 6600 GT? It would be nice to run the HD feed through MCE to get PVR capabilities...

Thanks to all so far...I really appreciate the help.

---blockage

Not sure what you mean. Yes, you can do OTA through your MCE card and out the DVI to the TV.

We're just giving another option of having OTA or QAM using a STB. In your case, your MCE is the STB so there is no problem.

I am in Phoenix as well and as long as you are close to South Mountain, we have all the OTA locals in HD and they look great.

I have a Windows MCE box that I plan to drive this display from. I currently have the Hauppague PVR-250 and no STB. My questions for 8UK owners that have MCE are:

- Can you comment on your setup and any issues you may have had concerning hooking up the display?
- Are you running an HD tuner card in your MCE box? If so, what kind is it, and how well does it work with the 8UK?

And another general question is:
- Should I be breaking out the subscription to my cable company's HD feed, or if I have a good HD OTA signal, is that more than sufficient to enjoy the 8UK? Right now I have no HD input...

---blockage

I'm running SageTV client (XP Pro) to my 8UK (server has 4 OTA HD tuner cards), hooked up via DVI blade with 6600 (non-GT) card. My tuner cards are the Vbox Cat's Eye series (DTA 150/DTA 151).

1) No issues whatever with PC via DVI. 1366x768 resolution immediately recognized (now totally standard at least with nvidia cards, no powerstrip or other nonsense required). Desktop was just slightly off center, but simply adjusted via user controls. Now it fills screen beautifully, edge-to-edge, using every single pixel. Love it!

2) PQ. In a word, deliriously excellent. I had been using a (relatively) old 720p Samsung DLP, and even my wife (usually skeptical of my purchases) said, "OMG, that's a really nice picture, much better than downstairs" (DLP).

I really only watch OTA HD, which is just phenomenal with the 8UK. Yes, I don't have as many programming options as I'd like, but I still find plenty to watch.

I really like SageTV and PC-based DVR in general, so for me, there's not a really easy way of getting cable or sat HD integrated into my setup. (Possible with some expensive mods of certain boxes, but not simple.)

3) I'd definitely argue that even OTA (assuming you can get at least 4-5 affiliates) is more than adequate to "enjoy" the 8UK, and you'll definitely see spectacular HD in all its glory. If you want to use your MCE box, it's pretty much the only way to go, right now anyway. Yes, if you get a QAM capable card, you can tune unencrypted HD cable, but that's almost always just locals anyway (depends on provider, though).

ATI has announced and demoed a PCI based-CableCard tuner, so that you can get all HD premium content. However, this is only going to work with Vista, and CableCard is pretty moribund right now, so we'll see.

Trust me, you will _not_ be disappointed with OTA HD PQ. Compression artifacts aside, cable and sat HD are great and I wish I had that content, but it's just a little hard to integrate into a PC-based DVR solution for the time being. Hopefully this will change soon.

cheers,
Dave

1) No issues whatever with PC via DVI. 1366x768 resolution immediately recognized <snip>
2) PQ. In a word, deliriously excellent. <snip>
I really only watch OTA HD, which is just phenomenal with the 8UK.
This is all excellent news to me. Thanks Dave for the detailed feedback specifically with the PC to DVI hookup at its native res.
Boofster, glad to hear that the OTA HD locals look great. I'm up in Glendale by 59th ave and Union Hills, so I don't anticipate any problem picking up the HD feeds... I understand what you were saying now about the option of using the STB for HD. My concern was using the PVR capabilities in MCE with an HD feed. I just wanted to be sure that the MCE would be able to tune and record HD using one of the HD cards out there. Based on what Dave said using SageTV, I don't see it being a problem, although I'm sure recording HD programming will eat up a chunk of additional space on the MCE hard drive... (probably loss due to MPEG encoding too?)

Last night I was up waaay late reading through another thread on the NEC 50XR5 :eek: , and my head it totally swimming with all of the opinions, details, and analysis that people have been doing on these two displays! I'm pretty sure that whichever plasma I decide to get, it'll be fantastic, but I really wish I could see a side-by-side comparison of these two sets (properly calibrated of course!)

Thanks again to Dave, Boofster, EnochLight, and tangfoot for the feedback.

---blockage

AHHHHHH....

I just got my 8UK in, and it's all green. I'm using component to VGA (STB to PDP). Why would it be green?

How can I adjust this???

Can Anyone help?????

Thanks,

thephatp

AHHHHHH....

I just got my 8UK in, and it's all green. I'm using component to VGA (STB to PDP). Why would it be green?

How can I adjust this???

Can Anyone help?????

Thanks,

thephatp

Go into the 8UK setup / input (I can't remember exactly where or what it's called) menu and make sure the input is changed from VGA to component.

See if that helps. Other than that... check that your R-G-B connections aren't flipped.

shane

Go into the 8UK setup / input (I can't remember exactly where or what it's called) menu and make sure the input is changed from VGA to component.

See if that helps. Other than that... check that your R-G-B connections aren't flipped.

shane

Wow...thanks for the fast reply! You saved me!!!

Thanks Shane!!

Oh, how I love my 8UK!!!

thephatp :D

My pleasure. :D
Enjoy!

OH MY GOODNESS...I LOVE MY 8UK!!! I matched some of the settings on Bruzzi's FAQ, and man, it looks good.

Just watched Shrek 2, and it was awesome. So clear, so vivid, even toned down in the Cinema mode!

Then I watched the last inning of the White Sox game in HD on InDemand. It was crystal clear. That was one of the BIG reasons I just couldn't wait to get the TV in--MLB in HD!!! And tomorrow, I can record my Astros on ESPNHD!!

And I finished it off with the Astros tonight and, boy, was I surprised with how good it looked. I mean, I really didn't know what to expect with the SD channels, but it truly does a good job.

Thanks to all who helped push me to the 8UK. I will forever be grateful!!

:D :D

Enjoying my 8UK,

thephatp :D