Ok with this panel i have a really old dvd player and it only will output 480i over component.

Is it best to get:

A) upconverting dvd player with hdmi output for 150ish bucks

b) dvd player that can output 480p over component that i can get a good one for less than a 100ish bucks.

thanks for all your replies

HDMI is best. There is no XXXi on this TV. Everything is already upconverted to XXXp so getting a progressive dvd player will accomplish nothing.

HDMI is best. There is no XXXi on this TV. Everything is already upconverted to XXXp so getting a progressive dvd player will accomplish nothing.

Not necessarily, A progressive or upscaling player can improve the image. The player can read the flags so potentially do a better de-interlacing job.

- Rich

Yep........ listen to the "experiended". The quality and the upscalability of the DVD player does make difference. I wouldn't go too cheap on the DVD player.


;)

Go into the 8UK setup / input (I can't remember exactly where or what it's called) menu and make sure the input is changed from VGA to component.

See if that helps. Other than that... check that your R-G-B connections aren't flipped.

shane

Shane, how are you liking your 8UK so far? You're right about the blacks - the 60U has deeper absolute blacks levels than the 8UK. However, I also had a chance to see an 8UK (over the weekend) using HDMI (7 series card) and it definitely seemed to be sharper, have more colors or better contrast or something. We switched DVD between component and hdmi and I'm not sure if this was real or optical illusion. I was planning on cancelling the hdmi....but now :confused:

My friend's set-up has cable-box to VGA and DVD (Denon 3910) to hdmi. I may do the same :)

Plazman, I have the 50" 7UY and it has been calibrated by Greg Loewen. It has an unbelievable picture among the best of any display device I have seen. It looks so much better now than it did out of the box it is staggering. I have the 7 series HDMI balde and the picture is slightly sharper than the component input. Make sure that all the inputs, i.e component, HDMI are calibrated properly to make comparisions between them. The settings could be different which will give you separate results. All my inputs have been separately calibrated for all input resolutions. You really do not know what one of these commercial sets can do until you have seen one calibrated properly.

The performance of the picture quality on 8UK and 7UY is neck-to-neck if both are setup equally. With mine being particularly tweaked, it looks better than any 8UK displays I've seen. It depends on how good YOU setup your display.

Plazman, I have the 50" 7UY and it has been calibrated by Greg Loewen. It has an unbelievable picture among the best of any display device I have seen. It looks so much better now than it did out of the box it is staggering. I have the 7 series HDMI balde and the picture is slightly sharper than the component input. Make sure that all the inputs, i.e component, HDMI are calibrated properly to make comparisions between them. The settings could be different which will give you separate results. All my inputs have been separately calibrated for all input resolutions. You really do not know what one of these commercial sets can do until you have seen one calibrated properly.

Isn't calibration a pain in the arse? :eek:

It's expensive
It probably needs re-calib after every ### hours
Settings could be lost or erased.
It may look worse! (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4867558&&#post4867558)

Pain in the ass, no as I just sit and watch it done. Expensive? Yes but it makes the PQ much better so it is worth it. Picture worse? Only if it is not done by someone who really knows what they are doing. Great blacks and color, great whites, great shadow detail. Much better than out of the box performance or tweeking using Avia etc.

Shane, how are you liking your 8UK so far? You're right about the blacks - the 60U has deeper absolute blacks levels than the 8UK. However, I also had a chance to see an 8UK (over the weekend) using HDMI (7 series card) and it definitely seemed to be sharper, have more colors or better contrast or something. We switched DVD between component and hdmi and I'm not sure if this was real or optical illusion. I was planning on cancelling the hdmi....but now :confused:

My friend's set-up has cable-box to VGA and DVD (Denon 3910) to hdmi. I may do the same :)Well Plaz...
I'm liking it a lot. It's got a stunning PQ 90% of the time. During very dark scenes or when there is a lot of 'dark' in the image, I see the 'glow of the black'. This is my ONLY complaint.

It has very good shadow detail, phenomenal colour rendering, great detail (even with the component inputs). So, mostly it's is a good purchase. Watching a good HD broadcast (as I don't yet own an HD-DVD player) can be quite startling in it's realism and 3D quality. Some of the programming on INHD or DiscoveryHD is so stunning that the wife and I will just look (bug-eyed) at each other in amazement.

When (and if) I ever receive the HDMI board...

It's great to look at, on... or off. I just wish the blacks could be... well... black.

shane

Hello all,

This just in from Panasonic, 9th gen plasma available in July

http://www2.panasonic.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/prModelDetail?storeId=11301&catalogId=13251&itemId=97639&modelNo=Content06062006025717579&surfModel=Content06062006025717579

Sorry but they are here now ....

Hello all,

This just in from Panasonic, 9th gen plasma available in July

http://www2.panasonic.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/prModelDetail?storeId=11301&catalogId=13251&itemId=97639&modelNo=Content06062006025717579&surfModel=Content06062006025717579

Sorry but they are here now ....
You must have missed the other thread about this. ;)

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=685667

shane

You must have missed the other thread about this. ;)

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=685667

shane

OK, this really sucks since I just ordered the 8UK. Anyway, I'm officially part of the 8UK family. Can't wait to get it. Besides, who nows when the 9UK will really be available.

Got some initial questions:
1) What cables would be recommened for the VGA input. I plan to use the VGA as a component input from my AVR. Will these work? http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10235&cs_id=1023503&p_id=2170&seq=1&format=2&style=
2) Where can I find Bruzzi's setup page for this monitor?
3) Anyone have luck finding the ty-fb8hm? Keep seeing the ETA being pushed back for this from various sellers. I know the ty-fb7hm is an option.
4) How do I resist staying home all day to play with the 8UK and not going to work the day I get this monitor. :)

Probably have more questions after I receive the set.

Thanks in advance for the answers.

Plazman, I have the 50" 7UY and it has been calibrated by Greg Loewen. It has an unbelievable picture among the best of any display device I have seen. It looks so much better now than it did out of the box it is staggering. I have the 7 series HDMI balde and the picture is slightly sharper than the component input. Make sure that all the inputs, i.e component, HDMI are calibrated properly to make comparisions between them. The settings could be different which will give you separate results. All my inputs have been separately calibrated for all input resolutions. You really do not know what one of these commercial sets can do until you have seen one calibrated properly.

I did have a 7UY before the 8UK. I must admit I prefer the 8UK (so far). The colors looks both brighter and (there seems to be more of them) and the details in dark areas appear better. Overall the picture has a very refined look to it. But then it just may be that I got lucky with the settings on this one!

My wife definitely notices and feels that the 8UK is better than anything else we have had so far. We are able to watch HD DVD with the lights totally off with balck-out curtains. Of course when watching Van Helsing, Constantine and Doom she needed the lights to be on - with the awesome video and audio :D

I did miss that thread, just wanted to share with the 8UK owners ...

10000:1 - makes me want an upgrade :(

You must have missed the other thread about this. ;)

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=685667

shane

10000:1 - makes me want an upgrade :(

You do understand that is dynamic, right? :)

1: That cable should work great ...
2: http://www.glaucobruzzi.com/plasma-faq/forumdisplay.php?f=16
3: I have had no luck getting this terminal card, mine has been on order for weeks
4: Just run a the burn-in while your working and then come home at night and tweak out of the monitor, this will take a few days anyway - download the burn-in DVD and run it while at work

Enjoy


OK, this really sucks since I just ordered the 8UK. Anyway, I'm officially part of the 8UK family. Can't wait to get it. Besides, who nows when the 9UK will really be available.

Got some initial questions:
1) What cables would be recommened for the VGA input. I plan to use the VGA as a component input from my AVR. Will these work? http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10235&cs_id=1023503&p_id=2170&seq=1&format=2&style=
2) Where can I find Bruzzi's setup page for this monitor?
3) Anyone have luck finding the ty-fb8hm? Keep seeing the ETA being pushed back for this from various sellers. I know the ty-fb7hm is an option.
4) How do I resist staying home all day to play with the 8UK and not going to work the day I get this monitor. :)

Probably have more questions after I receive the set.

Thanks in advance for the answers.

Please explain, how does that differ from the 8UK ?

You do understand that is dynamic, right? :)

Please explain, how does that differ from the 8UK ?

The method of measurement changed.
"Real world" tests indicate that there is very little, if any, change in contrast ratios between the 8th and 9th generations.

O.K. so then what does the 9UK offer that the 8UK does not? 1080P?

The method of measurement changed.
"Real world" tests indicate that there is very little, if any, change in contrast ratios between the 8th and 9th generations.

The method of measurement changed.
"Real world" tests indicate that there is very little, if any, change in contrast ratios between the 8th and 9th generations.Corporations pay big bucks to get marketing hype... I wonder if it is possible to see any difference between a 50PHD8UK and a 50PHD9UK?

I think it's funny that Panasonic makes it sound like a HUGE deal that their new 50" monitor is fifteen pounds lighter and "thinner". 85 pounds instead of 100 pounds? :)

Since I am such a sucker for marketing hype though, I'll report any perceptible differences as soon as I get my new 9UK and install it next to my 8UK. :D

I wonder when the TY-FB9HM board will be available? :eek:

O.K. so then what does the 9UK offer that the 8UK does not? 1080P?

I believe someone has listed the differences in the announcement thread.

I think it's funny that Panasonic makes it sound like a HUGE deal that their new 50" monitor is fifteen pounds lighter and "thinner". 85 pounds instead of 100 pounds?

Hey, those 15 pounds mean that I can install this sucker myself instead of having to give my brother in law a beer!

Hey, those 15 pounds mean that I can install this sucker myself instead of having to give my brother in law a beer!
I wouldn't try to save a beer doing that!

1: That cable should work great ...
2: http://www.glaucobruzzi.com/plasma-faq/forumdisplay.php?f=16
3: I have had no luck getting this terminal card, mine has been on order for weeks
4: Just run a the burn-in while your working and then come home at night and tweak out of the monitor, this will take a few days anyway - download the burn-in DVD and run it while at work

Enjoy
Thanks Route66. Where can I find the download for the burn-in DVD? Also, any initial things to look for as far as common defects?

I wouldn't try to save a beer doing that!

Actually, that was just a jest. I'm not wall mounting it.

I've already got the stand sitting in my cube at work. It is lonely...

I wonder when the TY-FB9HM board will be available? :eek:

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH... :D

I bet the 9th gen card will have double the lines of the 8th gen - muhahahaha

- That was for those watching this thread a while

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH... :D

Try here:

http://www.dvdshrink.info/goodies.php#run-in

Download the NTSC DVD ISO and burn a DVD, then play it for the first 100hr, also if you want to watch the monitor make sure to only watch in full screen, so for SD content use a stretch mode for the first 100hr and stay away from HD content with bars on the sides or top during burn-in

This has been talked about many times in this thread ...

Thanks Route66. Where can I find the download for the burn-in DVD? Also, any initial things to look for as far as common defects?

I bet the 9th gen card will have double the lines of the 8th gen - muhahahaha

- That was for those watching this thread a while
Yeah... and I heard that it was supposed to support 8000 shades of gradation. ;)

shane

...Download the NTSC DVD ISO and burn a DVD, then play it for the first 100hr....
Seriously, who would follow that advice? Run an endless loop for four days prior to watching your new expensive panel???

Yeah... and I heard that it was supposed to support 8000 shades of gradation. ;)

shane


The 8UK is a classic IMHO. The next improvement over the 8UK will be the 10UK (1080p) in a best case scenario :D :D

To each his own, I would be one who has done this

But hey if you do not want to follow the Panasonic White paper on break in, have fun with your sweet TV that has bars and station logos burnt into the screen

BTW, I never said do to not watch, I said run this while not watching to speed up the break in period ....

Seriously, who would follow that advice? Run an endless loop for four days prior to watching your new expensive panel???

Just bit the bullet and ordered the 8uk today, i could wait for the next panel but heh my wife's uncle can get a great price and have it fairly soon!

I thought about the consumer panel but i think the difference will really be minimal with a 720p panel.

The next jump will be a 1080p panel and i would like them to mature for a few years first, and who knows when 1080p will be adopted for real with out a content war between 2 dvd makers.

hdtv is a long way from 1080p signals so when a new format has matured this will make an amazing computer monitor for games!!!! :)

To each his own, I would be one who has done this

But hey if you do not want to follow the Panasonic White paper on break in, have fun with your sweet TV that has bars and station logos burnt into the screen

BTW, I never said do to not watch, I said run this while not watching to speed up the break in period ....
I can live with the 100 hour break-in but the 1,000 hour break-in (http://www.glaucobruzzi.com/plasma-faq/showthread.php?t=49) isn't realistic for me. That would take about two years at my house. Limiting 4:3 to 15% or 9 minutes per hour is unacceptable. Limiting static images (ie. HD with top/side black bars) to 10% or 6 minutes per hour is unacceptable. :mad:

I can live with the 100 hour break-in but the 1,000 hour break-in (http://www.glaucobruzzi.com/plasma-faq/showthread.php?t=49) isn't realistic for me. That would take about two years at my house. Limiting 4:3 to 15% or 9 minutes per hour is unacceptable. Limiting static images (ie. HD with top/side black bars) to 10% or 6 minutes per hour is unacceptable. :mad:

Getting my oil changed every 3,000 miles is a PITA too, but I do it because it is the best way to increase the longevity of my car.

If you don't care that your TV reaches its half-life in 3-4 years, treat it however the hell you please.

To each his own, I would be one who has done this

But hey if you do not want to follow the Panasonic White paper on break in, have fun with your sweet TV that has bars and station logos burnt into the screen

BTW, I never said do to not watch, I said run this while not watching to speed up the break in period ....


Thanks Route66. I'm definitely doing the 100 hr break-in. Spent way too much money to take any chances. Now for the 1000 hr break-in........I don't think I have the will power. :)

Getting my oil changed every 3,000 miles is a PITA too, but I do it because it is the best way to increase the longevity of my car.

If you don't care that your TV reaches its half-life in 3-4 years, treat it however the hell you please.Chill a little tangfoot...

FWIW, my personal motto is: "Err On The Side Of Caution... Almost Always." :D

Engine oil changes was a very interesting analogy. The 3-month or 3,000-mile interval you quoted is entirely arbitrary. My Hummer's computerized oil change reminder generally averages around 5,000 miles between changes. The fact that I use Mobil1 synthetic is an additional positive factor in the equation. Probably could safely go 7,000-miles between changes? Simply put, there is no absolute number of miles that everyone should use to change their oil. It's a matter of WHEN the oil loses its ability to lubricate. But, the "cautious" person is well-advised to play it safe and change their oil more frequently than is probably necessary... I'd be willing to wager that an engine having had oil changes every 3,000-miles won't be drastically different than one receiving oil changes every 5,000-miles. ;)

It's similar to the 1,000-hour plasma break-in period? The "guidelines" are all well and good. Following them to the letter will likely help avoid future problems and shortened longevity... But, it too is arbitrary. For that matter --- it is somewhat unrealistic in its suggestions IMHO? I mean, as much as I desire to extend the life of my new monitor, I simply will not keep a detailed log of exactly how many minutes the monitor is set to display gray bars or even static images. Does ANYONE seriously follow these guidelines? When you are watching a network program do you change the channel every fifty minutes so the little CBS logo isn't burned into the screen? I can't imagine missing the last 10-minutes of CSI because my plasma's time limit has expired. :)

However, the principles behind these "suggestions" are legitimate... Using a little common sense (something that many people seem to have a lack of?) goes a long way to safely breaking in a new plasma screen.

After the 100-hour mark with mine, I lessened my vigilance. I now avoid static images as much as I can while still watching what I want. Quite frankly, I just don't want to wait 6- or 7-months to "properly" break-in my monitor. The keyword being: "properly".

Ideally? Sure... Realistically? Not "really"...

But, there is a LOT of middle ground. If people anally follow the "rules" to the letter and get a few extra days, weeks or even months from their monitors --- I am most happy for them. :cool:

Logically, if the lifetime for my monitor will be 20% less than a monitor that is "properly" broken-in, the way I look at it is that my not watching a crippled picture for 7-months will have cost me about $600. Figure $5 a month over the shortened life of MY monitor as compared to yours? Hey! I can afford it! :D

I'd guess that the way I "treat" my monitor probably falls somewhere in between two extremes? I don't "abuse" it --- but I also don't baby it. I just USE it... So, I believe that I will follow your suggestion and treat my monitor how the hell I want. Feel free to use yours any way you please too. :)

I think I just heard a knock on my door? I hope it's not the Plasma Police here to arrest me for abusing my panel! :eek:

The "guidelines" are all well and good. Following them to the letter will likely help avoid future problems and shortened longevity... But, it too is arbitrary.

I generally agree with your statement, except for this part.

In what way do you feel that the recommendations put forth in the manufacturer's own white paper are arbitrary?
Would you feel better about the recommendation if it said 997.3 instead of 1,000?

When you are watching a network program do you change the channel every fifty minutes so the little CBS logo isn't burned into the screen? I can't imagine missing the last 10-minutes of CSI because my plasma's time limit has expired. :)


Hold it TechoFobe- :eek:

Following the guidelines, you can only watch 6 minutes of CSI -- limiting static images to 10%. :rolleyes: You're trashing the hell out of your display! :rolleyes:

Well here is what I did/do:

100 hr break-in with DVD
now when using the monitor I only use full screen modes, told my wife to do the same. we will do this for the first 1000 hr
after the first 1000 we will use whatever screen mode we want.

I do not think this is that type of use is all that restrictive. I hope it will allow for best break-in.

One could just run the DVD for 2 months while not home (no me)...

I guess what i am trying to share is that one can use the monitor while breaking it in .... almost proper ....

Aw hell...
I watch as much full-screen as I can tolerate. Then I watch a movie in Letterbox, then I watch some HD or SD in full-screen until I can't take it any more, then I watch it 'normal' with grey pillarbox.

In doing so I have not seen IR once. Unlike my old Pio which would IR if I just looked at it!

The 8UK seems almost impervious to IR... and I would imagine burn-in as well.

Just enjoy the TV and be mindful of static images. Watch as much full-screen as you can... and again... just enjoy the TV. It seems to be a lot tougher than all the hoopla would lead you to believe. ;)

shane

yeah, I do agree, as Shane says the screen has not shown any IR for me either


Aw hell...
I watch as much full-screen as I can tolerate. Then I watch a movie in Letterbox, then I watch some HD or SD in full-screen until I can't take it any more, then I watch it 'normal' with grey pillarbox.

In doing so I have not seen IR once. Unlike my old Pio which would IR if I just looked at it!

The 8UK seems almost impervious to IR... and I would imagine burn-in as well.

Just enjoy the TV and be mindful of static images. Watch as much full-screen as you can... and again... just enjoy the TV. It seems to be a lot tougher than all the hoopla would lead you to believe. ;)

shane

I generally agree with your statement, except for this part.

In what way do you feel that the recommendations put forth in the manufacturer's own white paper are arbitrary?
Would you feel better about the recommendation if it said 997.3 instead of 1,000?I might feel better if I knew why or how "they" arrived at this mysterious 1,000 hour figure. Why not 997.3 hours? Or, 1,003.7 hours? What hard data did the white paper that was "commissioned" by Panasonic use to base the 1,000 hour break-in period upon? For that matter, how do we even know the white paper itself isn't a myth? :p What does a "commissioned" white paper even involve? Maybe it was a group of videophiles who wrote it?

Quoting the white paper: "When the plasma is initially installed, videophiles say it is best to do the following:"

Maybe we should all ask who actually wrote this "official" white paper that many are taking at face value or video gospel? If the white paper's basis for conclusions are what "videophiles" have said, then I call THAT arbitrary. They never asked me! And I fancy myself to be something of a videophile. :)

Excuse me if I don't simply accept everything that I read on the internet, especially not when it does not support claims with hard facts or reference "expert" research.

But, more to the point, I ask myself how these "videophiles" arrived at the figure of limiting static images to 10% of viewing time. Why NOT 9% or 11%? Want to REALLY reduce image burn-in? Eliminate displaying all static images for as long as the display functions. :rolleyes:

I would like to have anyone explain to me how limiting the display of 4:3 mode to 15% of the viewing time from 100 to 900 hours is THE magic number...

You can't understand why I say that the white paper's suggestions for optimizing the performance of Plasma TV is arbitrary? It seems totally obvious to me. :eek:

Based upon the white paper's own (dubious) instructions, it is acceptable to display static images (such as those involved with video games, computer images, DVD title screens, etc.) for a total of 5,400 minutes after the initial 100-hour break-in and until the magical 1,000-hour mark. Five thousand minutes??? Now then, let me see... If a screen has 850-hours on it. Has it displayed static images for 80 or 90 hours...

As Dirty Harry would say: "Feeling lucky punk?" :cool:

My point is that I simply do NOT believe that ANY real-world plasma screen owner, not even an obsessive-compulsive one, will actually keep track of how many minutes of static images they have displayed at any given time. Give me a break! :)

I do not disagree in the least with the basic concept that it is a good idea to TRY and limit static images on all plasma screens. Heck I even doubt that I would even want to watch 135 hours of 4:3 mode during the first 1,000 hours... But to state as a fact that doing so will be likely to cause image burn-in seems "ARBITRARY" to me. Just as stating that one should change their engine's oil every 3,000 miles.

I'm closing in on about the 500 hour mark with my TH-50PHD8UK. I would "guess" that I've watched maybe 30 hours of 4:3 and maybe 5 hours ( if that) of static images. At least what I would consider to be static images. :D

So, based upon that --- my plasma screen should last me for about 20 years? I better add a codicil to my will! I sure wouldn't want to have it go to just anybody when I die.

Isn't it fun to nitpick? I love hoopla!!! :D

Here's the back of the 8UK:

I know the 8UK comes standard with Composite with S-Video In for Slot 2, and Component for Slot 3.

What are the extra inputs when you get when you get the TY-42TM6Y Composite/Component Board? I'm missing something.
http://catalog2.panasonic.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ModelDetail?storeId=11201&catalogId=13051&itemId=89192&modelNo=TY-42TM6Y&surfModel=TY-42TM6Y

Lastly, if I have the 8UK mounted, but it's in a room without a speaker setup and I don't want to buy the speaker accessories, does this unit use standard speaker wire? Could I just fish speaker wire through the wall, connect it to the TV and place the speakers on a cabinet somewhere? I don't want to have to use a receiver in one particular room every time I want to watch TV.

Thanks.

Yes, you can use standard speaker wire and bookshelf speakers. The tv has a built in amp.

Here's the back of the 8UK:

I know the 8UK comes standard with Composite with S-Video In for Slot 2, and Component for Slot 3.

What are the extra inputs when you get when you get the TY-42TM6Y Composite/Component Board? I'm missing something.
http://catalog2.panasonic.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ModelDetail?storeId=11201&catalogId=13051&itemId=89192&modelNo=TY-42TM6Y&surfModel=TY-42TM6Y

Lastly, if I have the 8UK mounted, but it's in a room without a speaker setup and I don't want to buy the speaker accessories, does this unit use standard speaker wire? Could I just fish speaker wire through the wall, connect it to the TV and place the speakers on a cabinet somewhere? I don't want to have to use a receiver in one particular room every time I want to watch TV.

Thanks.Harden,

That board is an optional terminal board, not the terminal board that comes with the TH-50PHD8UK. Same with the 42? That is a dual-slot board you are asking about... I don't know what all those connections are for. Surely not anything I need. :)

The composite board that came with my monitor has the S-Video input plus BNC pass-thru (video) input connectors. An adapter will allow you to input a (yellow) RCA plug into it... The terminal board also has a right & left audio input, although I don't use the monitor's built-in amp. The 8UK simply does NOT deliver high enough quality audio for me. Even a really low-cost 5.1 (dolby) receiver and a set of inexpensive speakers would be FAR better? In my opinion, great audio is AT LEAST as important as great video. Which might explain why I spent more for my audio system than I did for the monitor?

I'm confused... You say you don't want to watch it in one particular room? But, if your monitor is "mounted" then how do you watch it in other rooms? I wouldn't watch it without Dolby surround. In any room... :D

Watching HD television with low-quality sound seems almost criminal to me...

But, Panasonic does include that high-distortion amplifier for SOME reason I guess? :)

The monitor also comes with a component terminal board in slot 3 (as you mentioned) --- along with the "fixed" VGA inputs.

No Dolby? :eek:

Lastly, if I have the 8UK mounted, but it's in a room without a speaker setup and I don't want to buy the speaker accessories, does this unit use standard speaker wire? Could I just fish speaker wire through the wall, connect it to the TV and place the speakers on a cabinet somewhere?

Yes - standard speaker wire is fine.
Yes - use smaller speakers with high sensitivity (95+ dB).

Watching HD television with low-quality sound seems almost criminal to me...

But, Panasonic does include that high-distortion amplifier for SOME reason I guess? :)
For just turning on the SD news (or Jeopardy, Daily Show, etc.)... it's an alternative to firing up the whole system.

Otherwise... yeah, a waste.

shane

Is there any reason i can not lay this panel flat for the few minutes it takes to put the brackets on to mount on the stand?

Why must they be shipped upright? Is it to keep the front plate from flexing and breaking with bumps in the road, etc.?

Is there any reason i can not lay this panel flat for the few minutes it takes to put the brackets on to mount on the stand?

Why must they be shipped upright? Is it to keep the front plate from flexing and breaking with bumps in the road, etc.?The plasma's screen is a very large sheet of glass. It is, as one would imagine, fragile. Panasonic states the following on their website: "If you're a "do-it-yourself" type, installing a plasma would be a fun project - but Panasonic officially recommends that you take advantage of professional services for plasma installation. And please always use Panasonic brand mounts and pedestal stands."

Obviously, if someone would damage their brand-new, expensive screen by laying it flat --- they would feel kinda bad. (Understatement of the year?) :eek:

That being said, I unpacked my new 50PHD8UK in an area where I had plenty of room in which to work --- and after placing several thick blankets on my wood floor --- I very carefully laid my new panel face down. Notice the emphasis on "very"?

I then installed the terminal boards and the Panasonic pedestal stand. Fact is, I always hold my breath whenever physically moving my monitor.

So, you decide. Feeling spunky? :)

Fact is, I always hold my breath whenever physically moving my monitor.

In the future you may want to breathe in through your nose and out through your mouth. That will increase the oxygen flow and reduce the risk of passing out while moving your monitor. As always, YMMV. ;)

Hi everyone,

Need some help. Just got my plasma yesterday, and the picture looks amazing. But when I'm watching the World Cup on ESPN2 in SD , half the news ticker at the bottom is cut off. Any recommendations on how to fix this?

Thanks

Hi everyone,

Need some help. Just got my plasma yesterday, and the picture looks amazing. But when I'm watching the World Cup on ESPN2 in SD , half the news ticker at the bottom is cut off. Any recommendations on how to fix this?

Thanks

Don't stretch the image.
Make sure your cable box is outputting the signal correctly.
Watch ESPN2 in HD. ;)

Hi everyone, Need some help. Just got my plasma yesterday, and the picture looks amazing. But when I'm watching the World Cup on ESPN2 in SD , half the news ticker at the bottom is cut off. Any recommendations on how to fix this? Thanks
Hi Dave,

That's an easy one to answer for me. I just change the channel and watch anything else. :D

Unfortunately ESPN2 doesn't always transmit in HD?

Like tangfoot mentioned, it sounds like you have chosen the monitor's "Zoom" aspect mode? Choose a different mode. Check out page 19 of the manual for complete details on various aspect modes.

Personally I hate the distortion I see when using "Just" "Full" or maybe even "Panasonic Auto", depending upon how you have setup the "Auto" mode to display... I guess I'm just a "Normal" mode kind of guy? However, I don't watch very many SD programs. Only when I HAVE to. :)

My main reason for trying to limit viewing 4:3 in "Normal" mode (opther than the fact that I love HD programming) is because Panasonic advises: "Do not allow the picture to be displayed in NORMAL mode for an extended period, as this can cause a permanent after-image to remain on the Plasma Display Panel."

I'm not sure what qualifies as an "extended period"? :confused:

But since I am rapidly closing in on the end of the infamous 1,000 hour break-in period --- I believe that image retention is "less" of a problem? Also, from other posts it sounds like the 8UK is less susceptible to burn-in than previous monitor generations (models).

At any rate, you might try the other aspect modes to see if they are not too objectionable to your viewing pleasure. Who knows, maybe someday ESPN will stop broadcasting in crappy old 4:3 ? ;)

Hi All... very excited here... have my 8UK on its way and have a couple questions I was hoping somebody could answer. I still have a lot to learn... and these forums are FABULOUS...

Question 1: I don't have a home audio system.. I'll simply be connecting a SA HD DVR cable tuner from cablevision via HDMI... I have the Panasonic matching speakers ... and was wondering if anyone else has a similar setup and can post their impressions.

Question 2: I'm in the market for a DVD player... I've read quite a bit about the Panny S52 and the Sony 75 series. Again, is anyone using either via HDMI? Or do you suggest a different unit? Don't want to spend a lot as a year from now HD or BlueRay will be the rage when prices drop.

Question 3: Is anyone using the Panasonic flush-wall mount?

Finally, I've been reading a lot here about AVIA and DVE callibration tools. Are either difficult to use.. or for that matter, did you even use them.... many here are reporting color is fabulous out fo the box.

thanks so much!!!!!

Hi Dave,

That's an easy one to answer for me. I just change the channel and watch anything else. :D

Unfortunately ESPN2 doesn't always transmit in HD?

Like tangfoot mentioned, it sounds like you have chosen the monitor's "Zoom" aspect mode? Choose a different mode. Check out page 19 of the manual for complete details on various aspect modes.

Personally I hate the distortion I see when using "Just" "Full" or maybe even "Panasonic Auto", depending upon how you have setup the "Auto" mode to display... I guess I'm just a "Normal" mode kind of guy? However, I don't watch very many SD programs. Only when I HAVE to. :)

My main reason for trying to limit viewing 4:3 in "Normal" mode (opther than the fact that I love HD programming) is because Panasonic advises: "Do not allow the picture to be displayed in NORMAL mode for an extended period, as this can cause a permanent after-image to remain on the Plasma Display Panel."

I'm not sure what qualifies as an "extended period"? :confused:

But since I am rapidly closing in on the end of the infamous 1,000 hour break-in period --- I believe that image retention is "less" of a problem? Also, from other posts it sounds like the 8UK is less susceptible to burn-in than previous monitor generations (models).

At any rate, you might try the other aspect modes to see if they are not too objectionable to your viewing pleasure. Who knows, maybe someday ESPN will stop broadcasting in crappy old 4:3 ? ;)

Thanks for the info guys. I'll try all those things. I would love to watch ESPN2 in HD, but Time Warner seems to be the last ones to add anything new. Very frustrating. :(

Hi All... very excited here... have my 8UK on its way and have a couple questions I was hoping somebody could answer. I still have a lot to learn... and these forums are FABULOUS... Question 1: I don't have a home audio system.. I'll simply be connecting a SA HD DVR cable tuner from cablevision via HDMI... I have the Panasonic matching speakers ... and was wondering if anyone else has a similar setup and can post their impressions. Question 2: I'm in the market for a DVD player... I've read quite a bit about the Panny S52 and the Sony 75 series. Again, is anyone using either via HDMI? Or do you suggest a different unit? Don't want to spend a lot as a year from now HD or BlueRay will be the rage when prices drop.
Question 3: Is anyone using the Panasonic flush-wall mount? Finally, I've been reading a lot here about AVIA and DVE callibration tools. Are either difficult to use.. or for that matter, did you even use them.... many here are reporting color is fabulous out fo the box. thanks so much!!!!!
Congrats jmatero,

Is there any reason why you bought the Panasonic speakers instead of buying an audio system? :eek:

You really need to break-in your new monitor before you actually calibrate the color/picturer. There are some very useful posts here on the forum which describe in detail the advised methods and techniques involved with properly breaking-in a new plasma screen.

Can you return the Panasonic speakers for a refund? :cool:

Well, was looking for something clean and unfortunately, I can't crank up the sound too high as I'm in a condo and my livingroom wall is shared with my neighbor's bedroom wall. :( So, I was looking for something very minimalist not requiring too much hardware. I'm open to suggestions though! I really don't want a lot on the wall besides the monitor (just like the look) and I've seen a number of pictures here where people have their monitor flush mounted on the wall.. but then on either side, have speakers hanging that are 3x as deep. Any thoughts on a very simple/clean looking system (bose, or another) that would sound better than the panasonic speakers?

Well, was looking for something clean and unfortunately, I can't crank up the sound too high as I'm in a condo and my livingroom wall is shared with my neighbor's bedroom wall. :( So, I was looking for something very minimalist not requiring too much hardware. I'm open to suggestions though! I really don't want a lot on the wall besides the monitor (just like the look) and I've seen a number of pictures here where people have their monitor flush mounted on the wall.. but then on either side, have speakers hanging that are 3x as deep. Any thoughts on a very simple/clean looking system (bose, or another) that would sound better than the panasonic speakers?I appreciate that... Minimalism is often very good. :)

Butt.

There is a good reason why the "A" in A/V comes first. Many believe that the audio part of good audio/video enjoyment is at least as important, if not more so, than the video. You are going to be getting what is --- arguably --- one of the finest plasma monitors around. To then hook it up with the optional Panasonic (low-quality) speakers using the internal high-distortion (relatively speaking, of course) amp that's built into the 8UK monitor borders on sinful in my opinion. It doesn't have to be a matter of rattling the fillings in your neighbor's teeth --- but a matter of being able to produce Dolby Surround Sound. Nor does it require a budget-busting investment to get an economical HT audio system... Possibly even less than those speakers cost you? Check the specs on those critters. Or, better yet, listen to them... I can't imagine anyone being thrilled with the way they sound.

I wouldn't hesitate to install a modestly priced audio system that can do Dolby 5.1, if I were you. Watching a good Hollywood movie on DVD without the benefit of 5.1 just misses the mark for me.

Even when played at moderate volume levels, the sound quality would be dramatically improved. I personally prefer to "crank it up" but, it's not a requirement. Hey, maybe invite your neighbors over to watch that DVD of Saving Private Ryan? :D

If you find that having five (small) speakers is too extreme that's a different matter... Aesthetics do mean a lot. :cool: So, maybe that is the "right" way for you to go?

Viva la difference.

There is a good reason why the "A" in A/V comes first. Many believe that the audio part of good audio/video enjoyment is at least as important, if not more so, than the video.

I wouldn't hesitate to install a modestly priced audio system that can do Dolby 5.1, if I were you. Watching a good Hollywood movie on DVD without the benefit of 5.1 just misses the mark for me.


I really must echo this sentiment. I mean, I don't have a 5.1 setup (yet, but I'm working on it), and honestly, I'm really missing the audio demoing I used to do. I had to do the best I could with my budget at the time, which meant leaving out the surrounds.

And now that I have my new 8UK (had it for almost 2 weeks now :D ), I just LOVE the picture. And movies are so much more enjoyable. BUT, I must say, I'm really longing for the surround now. I have a nice audio setup, but I really need the rear to complete the setup and truly achieve that ultimate HT experience.

TechoFobe...well said!

I agree with Techo...
For movies in particular, sound is close to half the experience. And I also think he is correct in expressing dismay in getting such a fine panel and no sound system to match or compliment it.

Yes, some of us love to have our houses rattle and shake with bertter-than-movie-theater sound, but that's not always necessary or possible. I truly think however that you are missing out on way too much of the movies' environmental factors by not listening to it in a manner that the creators intended (or some semblance thereof).

The 5.1 soundfield will immerse you in the movie much more than just the excellent PQ of your new Panny with it's stereo speakers.

You might want to go to the Speakers section of this forum and get opinions on inexpensive, good quality HTIB's. That is what I'd do in your circumstance (but then again, I'm not well). ;)

Good luck.

shane

Don't stretch the image.
Make sure your cable box is outputting the signal correctly.

You can vary what signal the cable box outputs. I'm able to "stretch" the image without chopping off the score ticker.

Watch ESPN2 in HD. ;)

I HATE TWC.

Well, was looking for something clean and unfortunately, I can't crank up the sound too high as I'm in a condo and my livingroom wall is shared with my neighbor's bedroom wall. :( So, I was looking for something very minimalist not requiring too much hardware. I'm open to suggestions though! I really don't want a lot on the wall besides the monitor (just like the look) and I've seen a number of pictures here where people have their monitor flush mounted on the wall.. but then on either side, have speakers hanging that are 3x as deep. Any thoughts on a very simple/clean looking system (bose, or another) that would sound better than the panasonic speakers?
I would recommend getting a simple HT in a box system from Onkyo if you are on a budget. My brother has the HT-590S, and it sounds great. He can't turn it up too loud because of neighbors either. The room he's in is approx 13x9. Those systems usually run a couple hundred bucks.

OK, got my 50" 8UK late last week and am currently still in the "break-in" period. Got my contrast (picture) setting at -20 or so and brightness at about the same. Got a few questions:
1) Is it safe after the 100-hr break-in period to watch movies in letter-box (top and bottom black bars)? If so, how long a period at a time and do I need to do and type of screensaver functions after that? Would it be safe to watch LOTR non-stop (~3 hrs)?
2) Looking to getting a DVD player to pair with this set. My budget allows me to get the oppo 971/970, panny s97s, etc. Anyone use these players? Any other recommendations in that price range? Are there any macroblocking issues with those players and this set. Heard DLPs were really bad with the Farouda chip. How's it do with the 8UK?
3) How good is the internal scaler on this set? Which chip set does it use? Would it be best to feed it 480i and let the TV do the scaling? Although, the 8UK does not take 480i through HDMI.
4) Anyone have any luck getting the 8-series HDMI blade from an US seller? I know there's been discussion that there's not much difference between the 7 and 8 series, but would like to get the latest if it's readily available.
5) Don't have HD content yet? Is there a difference between cable vs sat? One better than the other as far as providing a better PQ?

Can't wait to get done with the break in period and start watching in "normal" setting. Thanks everyone for their recommendations!

Inline:

OK, got my 50" 8UK late last week and am currently still in the "break-in" period. Got my contrast (picture) setting at -20 or so and brightness at about the same. Got a few questions:

Grats. Don't have to go that low on the settings.

1) Is it safe after the 100-hr break-in period to watch movies in letter-box (top and bottom black bars)? If so, how long a period at a time and do I need to do and type of screensaver functions after that? Would it be safe to watch LOTR non-stop (~3 hrs)?

All you need is an image source that takes up the whole screen with no logos. No Letterbox, no video games, no pc input. I wouldn't loop the dvd non-stop either. That's like revving a new car at 3000 rpm for 24 hours. Not cool. Let it rest for a bit. I'd say max 6 hours per day for the first 100. I ran fifth element looped in zoom mode every night for a week.

2) Looking to getting a DVD player to pair with this set. My budget allows me to get the oppo 971/970, panny s97s, etc. Anyone use these players? Any other recommendations in that price range? Are there any macroblocking issues with those players and this set. Heard DLPs were really bad with the Farouda chip. How's it do with the 8UK?

I'd recommend something like the LG 3510a (~$150 on ebay). It has DVI out at 1080i for both DVD and OTA/QAM HDTV. I've also tried the good ole Faroudja Panasonic RP62.

3) How good is the internal scaler on this set? Which chip set does it use? Would it be best to feed it 480i and let the TV do the scaling? Although, the 8UK does not take 480i through HDMI.

I've tried the scaler on the TV and the DVD player and can't tell a difference. I let the TV do it.

4) Anyone have any luck getting the 8-series HDMI blade from an US seller? I know there's been discussion that there's not much difference between the 7 and 8 series, but would like to get the latest if it's readily available.

No go on these. There are threads about where to get them and they sell out in hours. Best bet right now is import from the UK or ebay. I need one myself.

5) Don't have HD content yet? Is there a difference between cable vs sat? One better than the other as far as providing a better PQ?

The purest HD you'd get right now is only from OTA/QAM HDTV or HDDVD/BlueRay. Pick up a HD box for cheap and treat yourself to some jaw drops. The OTA/QAM is uncompressed compared to what you get when you pay for it through Cable DTV/Sat so it's a lost cause.

I have a 50phd8uk, a denon 2807 amp, and 25' hdmi cable (monoprice) linking the two. I have been watching content via component for months without any problems. I just installed the tyfb8hm hdmi card in slot 1 and 2 and have not been able to switch the input from component or get a signal. The monitor will not switch from the component input. I cant think of any way to test the output from my reciever. The card was an "open" item, I suppose it could be bad, but I think it's most likely operator error.

On a side note, is their any way to see how many hours the monitor has been on so I'll know when I'm past the breakin periods.

On a side note, is their any way to see how many hours the monitor has been on so I'll know when I'm past the breakin periods.

Bruzzi's plasma page has step by step instructions on how to see # of hours for the commercial panny.
I'd link but the anti-spam filter won't let me until I make 5 posts :confused:

It's a nice site.
Once I pony up and buy my 8 or 9UK, I'll definitely be referencing that and the burn-in prevention thread often. :)

Bruzzi's plasma page has step by step instructions on how to see # of hours for the commercial panny.
I'd link but the anti-spam filter won't let me until I make 5 posts :confused: It's a nice site.

Lookie here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=622573

(Thanks, Bruzzi.) :)

I don't know whether to be happy or sad. I posted the same problem earlier this week with my 50phd8uk and denon 3806. I, too, have run several months on component and finally received and installed the ty-fb8hm card in slot 1 and cannot receive a signal through hdmi. The fact that there are two of us makes me think it is not a defect in the hardware, but in some kind of setting we are both missing. I have had no responses to my posting but will advise you if I find something out. Please keep me in mind if you discover a solution.

JSH_TEX and siobret, can you share with us where you got your ty-fb8hm?

Not sure if this will help, but have you guys tried going directly from your source to the TV through HDMI and by-passing the receiver? I've heard of some problems with HDMI switching through the receivers. Also, what sources are you feeding into your receiver now (DVD player, cable box, etc)?

I don't know whether to be happy or sad. I posted the same problem earlier this week with my 50phd8uk and denon 3806. I, too, have run several months on component and finally received and installed the ty-fb8hm card in slot 1 and cannot receive a signal through hdmi. The fact that there are two of us makes me think it is not a defect in the hardware, but in some kind of setting we are both missing. I have had no responses to my posting but will advise you if I find something out. Please keep me in mind if you discover a solution.

If you conduct a search of prior forum posts you will find lots of potential solutions to problems reported with HDMI boards. To the best of my knowledge and understanding, all users who reported problems were finally able to get their boards to work properly. The most common problems include installation without unplugging the panel first (not just powering off), installation into an improper slot, failure to eliminate 480i output to the HDMI board from the source (the HDMI blade does not support 480i), and failure to go into the panel's deep menu system to have the port automatically "find" a blade in the slot into which it was installed and/or to turn that slot "on." Note that if you tried to install the blade when the plug was in the panel, my best advice would be to unplug the panel, remove the blade, power the panel back on, power it back off, unplug the panel again, install the blade again, replug the panel and power it back on yet again.

Hope that this helps.

JSH_TEX and siobret, can you share with us where you got your ty-fb8hm?

Not sure if this will help, but have you guys tried going directly from your source to the TV through HDMI and by-passing the receiver? I've heard of some problems with HDMI switching through the receivers. Also, what sources are you feeding into your receiver now (DVD player, cable box, etc)?
I finally gave up on US vendors and bought from the Canadian vendor which has been mentioned in other posts on this Forum.

Thanks for your advice, I will try to get it working later today.

I got the blade from ourstore,com when one of the threads here said they were available. The purchase date was 6/12. When I called he said he had sold all five he had in stock but had one open item left.

Trying to search for info here is sometimes like finding a needle in a haystack, information overload, sorry if it was repetitive.

Brett

Got it working. In the options menu there is a feature called "Input lock", it was set to component and therefore wouldn't switch to any other input.

I checked out Bruzzi's site and looked up the hours logged on the monitor - 507 already.

Then I checked the source resolution via service menu and it was only 525 (480) while displaying a HD channel (comcast). So now I have to figure out how to change that. To think this whole time I thought I was watching high def!

As far as difference in PQ from component to HDMI, I didn't notice any, but I'm AV challenged anyway.

By the way, the hdmi displays the setup menu from the denon 2807 which I thought was 480i only.

Brett

I checked out Bruzzi's site and looked up the hours logged on the monitor - 507 already.

Then I checked the source resolution via service menu and it was only 525 (480) while displaying a HD channel (comcast). So now I have to figure out how to change that. To think this whole time I thought I was watching high def!

As far as difference in PQ from component to HDMI, I didn't notice any, but I'm AV challenged anyway.

By the way, the hdmi displays the setup menu from the denon 2807 which I thought was 480i only.

Brett
507 hours worth of SD without barking!? :eek: You should see a huge difference in HD PQ with your Comcast box set to 1080i using the standard component input. If your HD picture isn't "stunning" then something still isn't right.

OK, just finished my 100 hr break in period. Adjusted picture to 0, brightness to -5, and color to -3. Watched Spiderman 2 with the new settings and was not blown away or didn't see the huge difference compared to my old CRT TV. The PQ was nice, but not great. My guess for the good but not great PQ is due to my old Magnavox 480P DVD player connected through component. Outside of a proffesional calibration, are there any adjustments I'm missing? Shouldn't the internal scalar of the 8UK do a descent job of getting the picture to near HD quality? Or should I rely on a good DVD player to make the difference? How should DVD compare to true HD content?

OK, just finished my 100 hr break in period. Adjusted picture to 0, brightness to -5, and color to -3. Watched Spiderman 2 with the new settings and was not blown away or didn't see the huge difference compared to my old CRT TV. The PQ was nice, but not great. My guess for the good but not great PQ is due to my old Magnavox 480P DVD player connected through component. Outside of a proffesional calibration, are there any adjustments I'm missing? Shouldn't the internal scalar of the 8UK do a descent job of getting the picture to near HD quality? Or should I rely on a good DVD player to make the difference? How should DVD compare to true HD content?
Mac.
I have my DVD player hooked up through component. I have watched my Superbit copy of Spiderman 2, and honestly... I've seen better transfers and sharper discs. My Superbit of Fith Element is much sharper and if you have this... it may give you a better impression of what is possible.

That said... it just may be your DVD player, I'd have no way of knowing. Since you are sending an Analog signal to your Panny, you might also want to make sure that your cables are good quality and not too long. You also might want to buy gold-plated BNC adapters if you don't already have them. I'm not saying that a better connection will improve the PQ radically, just that a good connection is just one variable that should be eliminated before you dismiss the others.

Did you use the Avia or DVE to calibrate?

As for comparing it to HD... well... DVD will never be HD, even with good upconversion. From a distance of 10' or more, it can look very similar, but get closer and it will break-up. I do not have an HDMI board yet, but I expect the image to improve slightly with that... but still never reach HD.

good luck

shane

Has anyone tried configuring this Panny with the Harmony 880? I can't get the Input 1, 2, 3 and PC buttons to show on my Harmony remote. I tried to get the Harmony to learn the IR commands right from the Panny remote, but the signal doesn't go from the panny remote to the harmony remote. Strange.

Please let me know if you were successful in getting this to work. :confused:

Thanks

I tried to get the Harmony to learn the IR commands right from the Panny remote, but the signal doesn't go from the panny remote to the harmony remote. Strange.

Thanks

Make sure you are pointing it at the BACK of the Harmony. I made the stupid mistake of pointing it at the front of the remote at first, until I noticed the sensor is at the back.

In stock at V/A.
Just ordered, and they are shipping today!
It's a bit over MSRP, but at least they exist. :D

shane

In stock at V/A.
Just ordered, and they are shipping today!
It's a bit over MSRP, but at least they exist. :D

shane

I read your post and ordered mine as well from Visual Apex. I'm thinking of going with 2 hdmi inputs on my display!

Make sure you are pointing it at the BACK of the Harmony. I made the stupid mistake of pointing it at the front of the remote at first, until I noticed the sensor is at the back.

I have every single command from the Panny remote programmed on the Harmony 880 remote. I've had no problem at all using the directions...

I have every single command from the Panny remote programmed on the Harmony 880 remote. I've had no problem at all using the directions...

I was under the impression that this model is one of the preconfigured ones that you can get right off the Harmony website. Am I wrong?

In stock at V/A.
Just ordered, and they are shipping today!
It's a bit over MSRP, but at least they exist. :D

shane

Big thumbs up to VA. In case anyone cares, they also have 7th boards in stock (what I just got and have to use). :)

I was under the impression that this model is one of the preconfigured ones that you can get right off the Harmony website. Am I wrong?

Even the preconfigured ones I have found are not complete. Yes, the display itself is in Harmony's database. Except if you put in an HDMI board.

I'm happy to join the ranks of the 50PHD8UK owners :D
I just ordered from VisualApex last night after spending a few weeks trying to decide which display to get. It was really difficult to choose between the 8UK and the NEC 50XR5, but I finally decided to go with the Panny.

This weekend I get to run an outlet down the wall behind where it'll be mounted, and get things set up for when she arrives. I also need to pick up an OTA HD card for my Media Center PC (suggestions?) I picked up the DVI blade for hooking up the MCE box from VA as well as a flat mount. Eventually I'll need to deal with the HDMI card hunt, but not yet...

Thanks to all who answered my questions a few pages back. I'll post about the experience once I'm livin' it!

---blockage

I was under the impression that this model is one of the preconfigured ones that you can get right off the Harmony website. Am I wrong?
Turns out my IR learning receiver is not functioning. Unfortunate. The returns department will be contacting me within 48-72 hours.

The Level 2 tech was extremely helpful. He looked at other user's commands and found that they had all taught the input1,2,3,pc to the harmony remote as well. He was just able to copy their commands into my remote and link with my activities the way I wanted.

Thanks for the help everyone.

Quick! BUY.COM just got a bunch of HDMI blades in for $135!
http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=202578228

Nice find Boofster!

Watch out here... Though it says in stock, I got an email a few moments after I ordered saying that it is on back order. Appreciate the effort, though.

Has anyone tried configuring this Panny with the Harmony 880? I can't get the Input 1, 2, 3 and PC buttons to show on my Harmony remote. I tried to get the Harmony to learn the IR commands right from the Panny remote, but the signal doesn't go from the panny remote to the harmony remote. Strange.

Please let me know if you were successful in getting this to work. :confused:

Thanks I added the commands for Inputs 1-2-3 to my Harmony 550 last night, no trouble, if that's any consolation. I am not mapping these commands to specific Harmony buttons, but they did appear in the list under "Device" > "TV" on page 3 of 6.

Good luck

Just started the burn-in disc with my 8UK. Do I simply turn down the contrast and let it run? Anything else I'm supposed to do?

Thanks.

I'm ready to order!!! Don't really see a need to wait for the 9UK.... and prices keep dropping. I've narrowed it down to NewEgg and VisualApex as both have stellar reputations. VisualApex gets a slight edge as they will take back a unit that doesn't work within 30 days while NewEgg accepts no returns.

I have a question I'm hoping owners could answer: How long is the power cord on this unit

Also, are any of you using the Jobsite Systems IR Repeater systems?

thanks everyone!!!

FYI...
There may still be some 8-series HDMI boards left at some of the vendors talked about on the 8-HDMI thread.

I'm getting mine (from V/A) delivered today! :D

shane

Ok, I don't have much time to write... more later.
But I wanted to say that I don't understand how and why anyone would say that there isn't much difference between component (with good cables and connection) and HDMI. The difference with this panel and for me... installed last night) is startling. So intense was the image that I had to dial things WAY down, even though I passed 110 hours on the panel the other day. :D

Incredible HD image. Sharp, clean & rich. It is a radical improvement. I'm sorry for those who do not see a difference. Of course that may be for several reasons, not the least of which may be that my Compcrap Moto box puts out a $hitty component signal... who knows.

This HDMI board was well worth the wait and expense. The HDMI connection to my last (Pio) plasma was not nearly as good as this. It's like a new monitor! :D

So... do I get another one for my DVD (and eventual HD-DVD) player, or get a switcher? Hmmmm.... :rolleyes:

More later when I get a chance to actually play with this.

cheers

shane

Ok, I don't have much time to write... more later.
But I wanted to say that I don't understand how and why anyone would say that there isn't much difference between component (with good cables and connection) and HDMI. The difference with this panel and for me... installed last night) is startling. So intense was the image that I had to dial things WAY down, even though I passed 110 hours on the panel the other day. :D

Incredible HD image. Sharp, clean & rich. It is a radical improvement. I'm sorry for those who do not see a difference. Of course that may be for several reasons, not the least of which may be that my Compcrap Moto box puts out a $hitty component signal... who knows.

This HDMI board was well worth the wait and expense. The HDMI connection to my last (Pio) plasma was not nearly as good as this. It's like a new monitor! :D

So... do I get another one for my DVD (and eventual HD-DVD) player, or get a switcher? Hmmmm.... :rolleyes:

More later when I get a chance to actually play with this.

cheers

shane

Shane, I'd get another hdmi board (I'm getting two) since I agree with the improvement over hdmi. I thought it was not possible, but it is! Right now I am connecting my HD DVD player via hdmi and Cox SA 8300 via VGA. I guess a switcher may work just as well. But I had a 7 series hdmi board and now will get my 8 series on tomorrow. I will be able to tell if there is a difference between the two :)

I will be able to tell if there is a difference between the two :)
Now THAT is something I can't wait to hear about. Let's put this 8 v. 7 argument to rest. ;) :D

As for the switcher. Yes, I'd like another card for seperate settings if necessary, but... I know that in the future I'll be getting an HD-type DVD player, so then what?? I'd need a switcher eventually and the one from Monoprice is supposed to be very good AND very inexpensive.

shane

I have one question that seems nobody has touched on: Do you not get 4096 levels on DVI? If not then, what if you use a DVI-HDMI converter and go through the HDMI card instead, would that give you the 4096 from the DVI source? (that you weren't obviuolsy getting from straight DVI?)

FYI...
There may still be some 8-series HDMI boards left at some of the vendors talked about on the 8-HDMI thread.

I'm getting mine (from V/A) delivered today! :D

shane

Thanks for the info. Shane. How much was the board through V/A? They don't list a price.

Also, all Comcast boxes should be HDMI capable, right? And the installation of the board on the panel is easy, correct. You might have just talked me into this.

Thanks for the info. Shane. How much was the board through V/A? They don't list a price.

Also, all Comcast boxes should be HDMI capable, right? And the installation of the board on the panel is easy, correct. You might have just talked me into this.
My Comcast Moto 6200 box has no HDMI -- it has DVI. I suspect the older DVI board (TY-42TM6D) isn't as spectacular as the new HDMI board (TY-FB8HM). :( I also suspect STB-DVI to TY-FB8HM isn't as spectacular. I'm pretty sure I would have heard something by now if it was. I think Shane is one of the first TY-FB8HM owners I've heard from.

Motorola 6412 Phase III. The Phase II has DVI.
The HDMI board was $165 + 10 to ship. (Sorry if I broke any rules by posting that). A simple call (they are very helpful) will give you price and availability.

Installation is very easy, especially if you have ever... ever worked on a PC (like put in a bigger HDD or changed out a sound or vid card). It's easier than that.

Mine is partly in a cabinet and already on a stand and that placement made it a bitch to reach, but even with those problems, it was a breeze. Remember one very, very, very important thing. Make sure the monitor is OFF AND UNPLUGGED. The power needs to recycle to activate the board. Handshake btwn the two units was flawless.

Peece-a-kake. :D

So... why am I still at work? Oh yeah... to pay for these toys! ;)

shane

Motorola 6412 Phase III. The Phase II has DVI.
Have you had any audio problems with that STB? I may have to upgrade. :mad:

Shane, I'd get another hdmi board (I'm getting two) since I agree with the improvement over hdmi. I thought it was not possible, but it is! Right now I am connecting my HD DVD player via hdmi and Cox SA 8300 via VGA. I guess a switcher may work just as well. But I had a 7 series hdmi board and now will get my 8 series on tomorrow. I will be able to tell if there is a difference between the two :)

I'm looking forward to hearing your results in the "7" vs. "8" series HDMI board comparison. As an aside, I too was surprised to see just how significant the improvement in PQ was when switching from component to an "8" series board several months ago. I honestly didn't think it could get that much better than the high quality picture that I was enjoying previously with component. But, I was happy to be wrong. It's nice to now hear others note the same difference in PQ that I witnessed and reported on a while ago.

...I too was surprised to see just how significant the improvement in PQ was when switching from component to an "8" series board several months ago. I honestly didn't think it could get that much better than the high quality picture that I was enjoying previously with component. But, I was happy to be wrong.
I fully agree. I thought the PQ with component was fantastic! Um... wow!

shane

Have you had any audio problems with that STB? I may have to upgrade. :mad:
Be careful...
The Comcrap Moto 6412 PIII is a real POS.
Check out the couple threads about it in the HDTV Recorders section of this forum. It's got enough problems to have tempted me to throw it through a window. It can be a frustrating, annoying, problem-riddled nightmare. (Strong enough sentiment for you?)

If yours has occasional audio problems, and that is the extent of it... I'd keep it.

But, back on topic... That said, the PQ is outstanding! And, well... that's mostly why I have it. :o

shane

Does anybody have the Panasonic attachment speakers?

I have a 42" 8UK, and don't want to mess with a separate speaker/receiver setup just to listen to the TV while lying in bed.

Looks like the TY-SP42P8WK/S costs around $200. Do they work adequately?

Thanks.

Yes, I'd like to know that too. (50" model here). If nothing else, I'm interested in knowing if they'll "suffice" until I build up the audio end of my home theater. What's nice about these is that it eliminates another remote. I've searched and can't find any info about sound quality. I know they're not going to be fantastic but I'm coming from a 30" CRT with a little single speaker and these units add 6 (3 per side) 2way speakers.

Does anybody have the Panasonic attachment speakers? I have a 42" 8UK, and don't want to mess with a separate speaker/receiver setup just to isten to the TV while lying in bed. Looks like the TY-SP42P8WK/S costs around $200. Do they work adequately? Thanks.Seems like a lot to pay for low-quality audio. I enjoy good audio though and don't look at it like it's a "mess" to have to deal with. Or, maybe you could just utilize closed captioning and skip the whole audio thing? Even less to mess with? ;)

geez.... tough crowd.... LOL I guess the point here is, If you want the 8UK and don't have an audio system and have $199 to blow on your audio at the moment, there aren't many choices. I suppose the other option is to pick up a PDP-5070HD.... it comes with speakers and 2 HDMI ports ;)

geez.... tough crowd.... LOL I guess the point here is, If you want the 8UK and don't have an audio system and have $199 to blow on your audio at the moment, there aren't many choices. I suppose the other option is to pick up a PDP-5070HD.... it comes with speakers and 2 HDMI ports ;)

It's about making the right trade-offs - performance, feature and price ;)

Our office has a 50 8UK with speakers and it doesn't look or sound bad at all. In fact it looks pretty good, but would I buy them? Probably not. However, with the 8UK you can directly connect almost any speaker you have lying around.

At one time my old 7UY used to be connected to a Bose Acoutimass system (the cheap one - I think it goes for around $200 or so) and it sounded better than almost any TV speaker system I had heard and the colors matched exactly - the speakers were mounted on the wall.

Wait, I just realized something. Humor me for a sec.

If I have a pair of decent bookshelf speakers lying around, I can snake any speaker wire from the TV through the wall to the speakers, and just leave the speakers lying on a table.

If I do that, I can simply control the volume using the Panny remote, right? No need for an intermediary receiver just to control volume in the bedroom.

Do I have it right? Thanks.

Wait, I just realized something. Humor me for a sec.

If I have a pair of decent bookshelf speakers lying around, I can snake any speaker wire from the TV through the wall to the speakers, and just leave the speakers lying on a table.

If I do that, I can simply control the volume using the Panny remote, right? No need for an intermediary receiver just to control volume in the bedroom.

Do I have it right? Thanks.

Correct! Just make sure the impedence matches. I believe the Panny is standard 4-8 ohms. That's how the Bose was hooked up - it has high WAF :)

Yup... I've got a small pair of KLH black speakers behind the panel. The sound comes through the space betewwn the panel and the shelf the stand sits on.

I only use this for newscasts and minor crap... serious viewing / listening gets the full HT sound treatment.

These speakers were setup for two days before I told the wife about them. She never even saw them. It may be a slightly inelegant solution, but it works. The Panny has more than enough power for these things, and for what it is... it sounds ok!

shane

Some advice please.

I just ordered my 50PHD8UK and would like some recommendations on what boards and switcher I would need.

My setup is the following:
DirecTV HR10-250 (HDMI or component)
ExpressVu (DVI or component)
QualiTV Mpeg2 C/Ku receiver (DVI or component)
Roku Photobridge (Component or VGA)

I would rather not use any of the component outputs (except Roku).

Was thinking about buying a HDMI board and then using a HDMI switcher. WIth that in mind, I would get DVI to HDMI cables for the two units that have DVI and send them to the HDMI switcher.

Would picture quality go down using the HDMI switcher along with the DVI to HDMI cables?



Many thanks in advance.

Bobby

Motorola 6412 Phase III. The Phase II has DVI.
The HDMI board was $165 + 10 to ship. (Sorry if I broke any rules by posting that). A simple call (they are very helpful) will give you price and availability.

Installation is very easy, especially if you have ever... ever worked on a PC (like put in a bigger HDD or changed out a sound or vid card). It's easier than that.

Mine is partly in a cabinet and already on a stand and that placement made it a bitch to reach, but even with those problems, it was a breeze. Remember one very, very, very important thing. Make sure the monitor is OFF AND UNPLUGGED. The power needs to recycle to activate the board. Handshake btwn the two units was flawless.

Peece-a-kake. :D

So... why am I still at work? Oh yeah... to pay for these toys! ;)

shane


Thanks for the info. - based on all this, I am going to jump on the HDMI board. Very excited about that.

What HDMI cable are you using. They vary from $8 to $200. Any suggestions?

Thanks for the info. - based on all this, I am going to jump on the HDMI board. Very excited about that.

What HDMI cable are you using. They vary from $8 to $200. Any suggestions?
Here's where I go for the majority of my cable needs.
http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/dvi/index.htm

There are others, Monoprice and:
http://www.hometheaterspot.com/htsthreads/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/799987/an/0/page/0#Post799987

You don't need expensive... just good quality.

good luck

shane

Also try monoprice.com. The cables are exellent quality and the have excellent pricing.

- Rich

Doesn't a channel like espnhd have some sort of bars on each side of the picture? Since you cannot stretch hd content with the 8UK would watching espnhd be a burn in risk with this panel???

Doesn't a channel like espnhd have some sort of bars on each side of the picture? Since you cannot stretch hd content with the 8UK would watching espnhd be a burn in risk with this panel???

The remote from the cable provider should allow you to stretch, zoom any content you like. I have all the HD Zoom functions from my SA 8300 box programmed into my Harmony. Never been as issue for me.

I also never stretch movies - so I watch them with the bars if they are there (I can't stand zoomed or stretched movies) and so far no image retention - not for a second!

Doesn't a channel like espnhd have some sort of bars on each side of the picture? Since you cannot stretch hd content with the 8UK would watching espnhd be a burn in risk with this panel???
If your cable remote won't allow you to stretch (as mine doesn't)... and yif ou're reeeeeeeal paranoid, you can always feed your panel an s-video signal and stretch it. :rolleyes:

I've not seen any IR or evidence of burn-in on my panel. I am careful but not OCD. Just don't leave a static image on your screen for extended periods, keep your picture settings down to a reasonable level (Cinema and dialed-down from there), and you'll be ok. ;)

shane

I ordered a 50 and 42" 8UK. Did the break-in period for the 50" and it looks great.

The 42", however, doesn't turn on. I can't even get the red standby light. I eliminated the remote, batteries and power cord as possible problems.

Does that mean there's a fuse problem? Any way for me to fix this myself? The local repair place has a 5 week waiting list, and I don't want to order a new one from Costco unless I have to.

Thanks.

Doesn't a channel like espnhd have some sort of bars on each side of the picture? Since you cannot stretch hd content with the 8UK would watching espnhd be a burn in risk with this panel???

ESPN HD in Washington DC does not have any bars on the side. In general stretching content sucks (JMHO) on any TV. I hate to see distorted images. In fact one of the reasons I like the 8UK so much is because I don't have to worry about IR. I have never owned a plasma in the past that didn't have IR and I had to stretch the image. Now, it's a pleasure to be able to watch programs in their intented aspect ratio :)

However, as Shane mentions. Most cable-box will allow you to connect both via S-Video and component/hdmi. Usually programs with bars are 480i so you can stretch if you switch to S-video. All actual 1080i/720p programs are in widescreen format. You will not lose any resolution with 480i when using S-Video.

I received my 8 series hdmi board on Friday. I also have a 7 series board. Some observations:

1. I installed the board while display was on stand. Simply removed board from slot 2 and inserted the new board. So slot 1 and slot 2 are both hdmi! I also took this opportunity to remove the two handles on the sides - I got that idea from Bang & Olufsen where they sell rebadged Panny 8UK (with the handles removed). Very easy to unscrew and looks less commercial now :p

2. I tested my HD DVD Player XA-1 on both slots to see any differences. The PQ was about the same (both great). BTW unlike your cable-box, with the HD DVD player you can adjust all picture settings (including, color, tint etc) even over hdmi. I could use THX optimizer to calibrate the source. So, the picture controls that are greyed out from the hdmi picture menu is source rather than display related.

3. The biggest difference for me was stability of the connection. The 8 series board is very stable and with my HD DVD player (which is known to have a very fussy hdmi implementation) the synching up with the 8 series board was flawless. I could switch inputs and turn on and off the set and there was never a problem. With the 7 series board, if the TV is off when I turn on the player there is no signal. I have to turn off the HD DVD player and then turn it on after the display is turned on for it to synch.

So, overall I am really pleased with the new board. Panny implementation of this is great! None of my friends that I know of - they own Pioneers, consumer pannys etc can switch back and forth between different sources while watching HD DVD (over hdmi). Only with the 8 series board am I able to do it :D

This gets high WAF since wife does not have to worry about the order in which the devices have to be turned on :D

Oh, I forgot to mention. PQ over HDMI is better than component. You've got to see it to believe it!

Installation took me around 10 minutes total time. Last time I removed the plasma from the stand. This time I didn't.

ESPN HD in Washington DC does not have any bars on the side. In general stretching content sucks (JMHO) on any TV.
Plazman,

I agree COMPLETELY with you regarding stretching. It distorts the picture... Ugh! :eek:

I do find that when I am watching programs on SD channels that are in letterbox (with bars on the left and right AND bars on the top and bottom) that by using zoom mode I get full-screen undistorted video. At least it looks okay to me and is preferable to the "shrunken" display.

As for the national ESPN feeds, I think that they sometimes (usually?) broadcast HD in full screen --- but --- at other times they broadcast programming with bars on the right and left... Not all programming that ESPN broadcasts is in true HD? Though I could be wrong about this... :o

Brightness Problem.

I don't know if this is the right thread to post this in, but it is the best one I could find. If there is a better place, please let me know.

I have had my 50PHD8UK for about 7 months now. I haven't bought any expansion blades, so I only have the inputs that came with it. I use the component/rgb input for my direct tv receiver and have had no problem with it. However, with the composite video cable on input 2 I have been having a serious problem with the screen being too bright. Even if I turn the brightness down to the lowest setting, -30 I think, it doesn't make very much of difference. If I use the S-Video input, which is also on input 2, I have no problems. Does anybody else have any problems like this? Any suggestions? Thanks for your help.

first post. had 8uk for about 3 months now. incredible display. simply beautiful. 8 series hdmi came in yesterday. [about time] hooked up my dish vip 211 reciever to it and expected the improvement that everyone talks about. my opinion so far- the color is more vibrant, but it appears oversaturated to me, even after adjusting the settings. the color seems to cover the fine details. i dont want the color to glow. if a person is wearing a red shirt you should still see the detail in and around it. i kept switching between the hdmi picture and the component picture and can definently see a little more fine detail in the component one! so for now it is back to the component. cant turn down the color setting with hdmi, so what can i do to improve the detail with the hdmi input other than a pro calibration? $! hope the ps3 will still look ok on hdmi.

Brightness Problem.

I don't know if this is the right thread to post this in, but it is the best one I could find. If there is a better place, please let me know.

I have had my 50PHD8UK for about 7 months now. I haven't bought any expansion blades, so I only have the inputs that came with it. I use the component/rgb input for my direct tv receiver and have had no problem with it. However, with the composite video cable on input 2 I have been having a serious problem with the screen being too bright. Even if I turn the brightness down to the lowest setting, -30 I think, it doesn't make very much of difference. If I use the S-Video input, which is also on input 2, I have no problems. Does anybody else have any problems like this? Any suggestions? Thanks for your help.
Dump the composite and use the VGA 15 pin component.
http://images.monoprice.com/productlargeimages/21701.jpg

Hello, I have been on the fence for a while about the new hd-dvd players and noticed a few of you have them hooked to your 50phd8uk. How is the picture quality on this plasma set with the hd-dvd? Is it a noticable difference than with regular dvd player? I have time warner cable with the 8300 dvr and I have to say the hd channels on this set are bad. I know its not the set since the 360 and upconverted dvds look great. THANKS for your help

Dump the composite and use the VGA 15 pin component.

Question: If he's connecting a device that only has RCA or S-Video connections, how will "dumping" the composite work for him? I must be missing something here. Sorry...

Brightness Problem.

I don't know if this is the right thread to post this in, but it is the best one I could find. If there is a better place, please let me know.

I have had my 50PHD8UK for about 7 months now. I haven't bought any expansion blades, so I only have the inputs that came with it. I use the component/rgb input for my direct tv receiver and have had no problem with it. However, with the composite video cable on input 2 I have been having a serious problem with the screen being too bright. Even if I turn the brightness down to the lowest setting, -30 I think, it doesn't make very much of difference. If I use the S-Video input, which is also on input 2, I have no problems. Does anybody else have any problems like this? Any suggestions? Thanks for your help.What device is being connected to the composite video input?

Plazman,

How is your display with regard to false contouring? Have you seen any clayface when using the HDMI connections? Did you see any using the component connection? Do you think that the 14-bit processing has eliminated the problem of false contouring?

For those who have their 8UK mounted on the wall, did you fish cables for all your current (and future) inputs? Or do you connect your devices to a receiver, and fish a single HDMI/component cable through the wall to the monitor, and toggle the inputs via the receiver?

I wasn't planning on using a receiver for my family room, but maybe buying a good receiver like the Denon 2807 makes sense. I can save some bucks by not having to buy several 12" long cables, and I don't have to worry about fishing future lines to the set.

Thoughts? Does the picture quality degrade when you use the receiver to handle all the components?

Plazman,

How is your display with regard to false contouring? Have you seen any clayface when using the HDMI connections? Did you see any using the component connection? Do you think that the 14-bit processing has eliminated the problem of false contouring?

I have never experienced anything like clay face either using components or hdmi. The colors tend to be somewhat richer over hdmi than component, but PQ is excellent over either. I use HDMI mainly because of converting DVD (which most players won't do over component).

Almost anyone who sees the 8UK comments on how good the PQ looks. FWIW I've spent very little time tweaking the settings compared to my previous displays the NEC XR5 or the Panny 7UY. I also have not noticed any floating blacks while watching movies.

I must admit that I see a lot of clay face in the new consumer pannys and sammys everytime I see them in a store - it must be the vivid mode. Since in a home setting I have seen a 60U PQ look spectacular!

Dump the composite and use the VGA 15 pin component.
http://images.monoprice.com/productlargeimages/21701.jpg


Yes. I used to prefer the VGA/Component to the BNC Component. I think this is an excellent connection that many don't use.

If you do, remember to go to set up and change the input from RGB to Component, or you will get a green screen :)

For those who have their 8UK mounted on the wall, did you fish cables for all your current (and future) inputs? Or do you connect your devices to a receiver, and fish a single HDMI/component cable through the wall to the monitor, and toggle the inputs via the receiver?

I wasn't planning on using a receiver for my family room, but maybe buying a good receiver like the Denon 2807 makes sense. I can save some bucks by not having to buy several 12" long cables, and I don't have to worry about fishing future lines to the set.

Thoughts? Does the picture quality degrade when you use the receiver to handle all the components?
You could always run all cabling thru conduit large enough to pull (fish) future cables through?

I have tested connecting my DirecTV HD satellite receiver directly to my 8UK and also through my Denon AVR-4306 a/v receiver. Not a scientific conclusion but I didn't perceive any difference at all. That might be because I wasn't able to "see" any difference as compared to there actually NOT being any difference. Anyone else checked this?

It also probably depends a lot on which a/v receiver you are using to switch the video thru as far as quality of the signals?

I much prefer using the 4306 so that I can just select the source I want to view (and lsiten to) by using the Denon remote instead of having to grab the Panasonic remote to select the input and then the Denon remote to control volume and then the satellite receiver remote to change channels.

Time for me to get busy and program my Harmony remote? :D

If you use HDMI, composite, component and VGA inputs then one cable can't do it all and you'd have more than one cable going to the monitor in any case?

Huge conduit is the most flexible way to do the job? :D

What device is being connected to the composite video input?

Optivity,
I have hooked up multiple devices such as my gamecube, xbox, and the directv receiver. The directv receiver is the only one that I could do direct comparisons with, with it hooked up to both the component and composite inputs, and then switch between the two inputs. The composite one is barely watchable, way too bright. Thanks for your help.

Have you tried to "Normalize" your picture settings?

"While the “PICTURE” menu is displayed, if either the N button on the remote control is pressed at any time or the ACTION ( ) button is pressed during “NORMALIZE”, then all adjustment values are returned to the factory settings."

I received my 8 series hdmi board on Friday. I also have a 7 series board. Some observations:

3. The biggest difference for me was stability of the connection. The 8 series board is very stable and with my HD DVD player (which is known to have a very fussy hdmi implementation) the synching up with the 8 series board was flawless. I could switch inputs and turn on and off the set and there was never a problem. With the 7 series board, if the TV is off when I turn on the player there is no signal. I have to turn off the HD DVD player and then turn it on after the display is turned on for it to synch.


I have a feeling the firmware in the newer HDMI blade may be the most important, and under-appreciated, advantage of the 8th series over the 7th series blades. I was using the DVI blade originally to hook up my 8300HD with an DVI-HDMI adapter before I hooked up a Mac mini to the DVI input. While waiting for the 8th series HDMI blade I decided to just use component input which is pretty good to begin with so I wasn't in great need of the HDMI blade. After installing the 8th series HDMI I have to say it is FAR FAR superior to the DVI blade for use with HDMI.

When I originally hooked up the 8300 HD cable box to the DVI blade, which is fully HDCP compliant btw, I would have all sorts of HDCP errors. The errors revolved around the TV and box powering on. If the cable box was put on after the TV I would get an HDCP error and I had to turn everything on and off again. I finally got around this by programing my Harmony 880 to turn the cable box on and off and on again at start-up to guarantee the TV was already on and prevent the cable box from thinking it was hooked up to a non-compliant device. This worked OK with the occasional mess-up but was quite annoying having to watch the box go on and off and on again. The 8th series HDMI blade and the cable box play much nicer together. No fuss and special ops in my 880, just turn it all on and it just works.

Is the 8th HDMI better PQ than the older DVI blade? I am not sure, they look pretty close. I think the bigger issue is less buggy HDCP implementation. When buying any HDMI or HDCP compliant device I think the best advice is to just get the newest version possible. It is such a bug-ridden standard as it is I think you are just going to have fewer problems with equipment that is newer IMHO. YMMV.

-Jerry C.

first post. had 8uk for about 3 months now. incredible display. simply beautiful. 8 series hdmi came in yesterday. [about time] hooked up my dish vip 211 reciever to it and expected the improvement that everyone talks about. my opinion so far- the color is more vibrant, but it appears oversaturated to me, even after adjusting the settings. the color seems to cover the fine details. i dont want the color to glow. if a person is wearing a red shirt you should still see the detail in and around it. i kept switching between the hdmi picture and the component picture and can definently see a little more fine detail in the component one! so for now it is back to the component. cant turn down the color setting with hdmi, so what can i do to improve the detail with the hdmi input other than a pro calibration? $! hope the ps3 will still look ok on hdmi. can anyone help me out? am i the only one experiencing this??

Optivity,

I tried the normalize, it didn't work. I tried calling the panasonic tech support and they gave me the number for a field tech. He didn't answer his phone and his mailbox was full, so I couldn't leave a message. I will try him again on Wednesday.

first post. had 8uk for about 3 months now. incredible display. simply beautiful. 8 series hdmi came in yesterday. [about time] hooked up my dish vip 211 reciever to it and expected the improvement that everyone talks about. my opinion so far- the color is more vibrant, but it appears oversaturated to me, even after adjusting the settings. the color seems to cover the fine details. i dont want the color to glow. if a person is wearing a red shirt you should still see the detail in and around it. i kept switching between the hdmi picture and the component picture and can definently see a little more fine detail in the component one! so for now it is back to the component. cant turn down the color setting with hdmi, so what can i do to improve the detail with the hdmi input other than a pro calibration? $! hope the ps3 will still look ok on hdmi. can anyone help me out? am i the only one experiencing this??
Hmm, in general, it seems the cable guys are much happier than the dish guys.

Hmm, in general, it seems the cable guys are much happier than the dish guys.You could well be correct Mule --- but I doubt that your observation would meet the requirements to be considered to be scientically valid. :p

Who knows, maybe "the cable guys" are just less discerning? ;)

After watching the shuttle launch today on HDNET --- it's hard to imagine being any happier... Those shots were breathtaking. Maybe even almost as good as they were on Cable?

The people I envy the most at this point are the people who get strong OTA reception. Lucky dogs!

One thing is for sure, I couldn't be happier with my monitor. :D

Who knows, maybe "the cable guys" are just less discerning? ;)
Nah.... but it could mean that our cable boxes put out a lousy component signal and a stunning HDMI signal? ;)

The contrast therefore would make the HDMI PQ appear all the more glorious.

Either way, I have *zero** complaint about the HDMI connection. It is sharp, clean, rich and brilliant. The component (even with very good cables... into both component inputs) seems dull and somewhat lifeless in comparison.

That said, you are correct about OTA. Even my old Pioneer (POS) plasma had a most unbelievably amazing PQ from OTA sources. Extreme!

shane

Optivity,

I tried the normalize, it didn't work. I tried calling the panasonic tech support and they gave me the number for a field tech. He didn't answer his phone and his mailbox was full, so I couldn't leave a message. I will try him again on Wednesday.
Go into the Picture menu and access the Advanced Setting. I believe there is an Input Level that you should be able to dial down. According to the manual, this is for "Adjustment of parts which are extremely bright and hard to see."

can anyone recommend a wall mount for this tv? I'm looking for it to be adjustable (tilt or swivel--not just mount) but if there aren't any good ones or they're too expensive, I'd consider a standard mount.

Nah.... but it could mean that our cable boxes put out a lousy component signal and a stunning HDMI signal? ;)

The contrast therefore would make the HDMI PQ appear all the more glorious.

Either way, I have *zero** complaint about the HDMI connection. It is sharp, clean, rich and brilliant. The component (even with very good cables... into both component inputs) seems dull and somewhat lifeless in comparison.

That said, you are correct about OTA. Even my old Pioneer (POS) plasma had a most unbelievably amazing PQ from OTA sources. Extreme!

shane
no, i said the opposite. the component looks better. more detail, less oversaturation. read my post again. does anyone know what im talking about??

Hmm, in general, it seems the cable guys are much happier than the dish guys.
i got the dish cuz i heard somewhere on this forum and from other sources that the image quality was superior to hd over cable. i wasnt commenting on dish, i was making a point about hdmi[oversaturation/less detail] vs high quality component[less vibrant/more detail]. does no one else see this?

i got the dish cuz i heard somewhere on this forum and from other sources that the image quality was superior to hd over cable.
I've read the opposite many, many times. :confused:

ojready-
Check out Peerless.

Hello, what tuners are you guys using with the 50phud8uk to get OTA channels? I'm fed up with the quality of hd through TW and would like to try the OTA channels. Thanks

[QUOTE=mule65]I've read the opposite many, many times. :confused: great,
great, orriginally i just wanted to know if anyone else preferred the component over hdmi. now im starting to wonder if cable would give a better image quality over satalite. if so- why? if not- why? :confused: i think the satalite deal was a contract for a year or 2! :( also- no answers on first concern?

the component looks better. more detail, less oversaturation. read my post again. does anyone know what im talking about??
I compared HDMI and component on my D*TV H-10 receiver by switching input. HDMI picture is considerably better: crisper, nicer, better colors.

[QUOTE=mule65]I've read the opposite many, many times. :confused: great,
great, orriginally i just wanted to know if anyone else preferred the component over hdmi. now im starting to wonder if cable would give a better image quality over satalite. if so- why? if not- why? :confused: i think the satalite deal was a contract for a year or 2! :( also- no answers on first concern?
I had satellite (DirecTivo) for many years. I loved it. When going to HD, I did quite a bit of research to see what the general concensus was on Sat. v. Cable.

My understanding is that there is less compression through cable. More compression with Sat., leading to artifacting.

My cable HD is wonderful either through component or HDMI. Better with HDMI though.

Ask questions in the other forums and you'll get the same answer... for the most part. One big difficulty that I have with Comcast is the DVR (Motorola 6412 PIII) which is a serious POS.

Good luck.

shane

First off, thanks again to everyone here for helping me decide on the 8UK. Had it about two months and LOVELOVELOVE it. :D

Several questions:

* I've run video through both the PC and component inputs and been very happy with both, but.... I finally got my HDMI blade from VA about a week and a half ago. :) Haven;t had a chance to install it till today, and thought I'd check in here first. Well, turns out I got a 7... it's still unopened, so should I try to return it to VA and get an 8? (BTW, running with a TW SA8300 and non-HD DVD)

* Once I do get a HDMI board installed, is the best way to set up my Harmony 880 by just getting on the phone with a tech?

* I did just set up to run my computer through the PC input. Thinkpad 43, max output of 1024x768. It looks OK, albeit stretched and a little jaggy. Any tips on how to optimize?

Also, a big thumbs up to forum sponsor Monoprice: HDMI and component cables, component-to-VGA, 25' VGA/audio extender, various connectors... all work great, way low prices, fast service.

Thanks again!
Richard

ps: The shuttle launch on HDNET yesterday ROCKED!!!

* I've run video through both the PC and component inputs and been very happy with both, but.... I finally got my HDMI blade from VA about a week and a half ago. :) Haven;t had a chance to install it till today, and thought I'd check in here first. Well, turns out I got a 7... it's still unopened, so should I try to return it to VA and get an 8? (BTW, running with a TW SA8300 and non-HD DVD)Richard,

VA is a first-rate operation. Did you specifically order the TY-FB8HM? If VA doesn't currently have them in stock are you willing to wait longer? Now that the "8" series seems to be widely available with reasonable pricing --- it would make sense to me to buy it instead of the "7". Especially if you have already waited patiently to get the "8". Did it cost the same as the "7"?

* Once I do get a HDMI board installed, is the best way to set up my Harmony 880 by just getting on the phone with a tech?
Can't say... Mine is still sitting in the charger not being used. Doesn't seem terribly user friendly --- or I am just too lazy? I don't think that Logitech support is really set up to help program these things on an individual basis. Maybe I'm wrong... :)

ps: The shuttle launch on HDNET yesterday ROCKED!!!
Wow, you sure can say that again! :D

* I've run video through both the PC and component inputs and been very happy with both, but.... I finally got my HDMI blade from VA about a week and a half ago. :) Haven;t had a chance to install it till today, and thought I'd check in here first. Well, turns out I got a 7... it's still unopened, so should I try to return it to VA and get an 8? (BTW, running with a TW SA8300 and non-HD DVD)

* Once I do get a HDMI board installed, is the best way to set up my Harmony 880 by just getting on the phone with a tech?

* I did just set up to run my computer through the PC input. Thinkpad 43, max output of 1024x768. It looks OK, albeit stretched and a little jaggy. Any tips on how to optimize?
\

ps: The shuttle launch on HDNET yesterday ROCKED!!!

First off, the 8300HD has a very flakey HDMI implementation, IMHO I would recommend returning the 7th series if possible and getting the 8th series blade. My 8th series HDMI blade works very well with the 8300HD. At this point I would only use a 7 series blade if an 8 is unavailable and you are in dire need of HDMI, otherwise go with the 8. I also have an 880 remote. Just go to Logtitech's website create an account and it will ask you in the set-up what all your components are. Have all your manuals at hand so you have the right product ID's and it will be a snap. I keep tweaking my 880 here and there but after it is set-up it is pretty idiot-proof.

The shuttle launch did look amazing, I particularly liked being able to see the ever-so-slightly darker blue band beneath the exhaust plume. The sun is blocked by the white exhaust trail and a blue band can be seen below it in the sky. Not too many TV's would likely render such a subtle shade variation. I have seen this phenomenon up in a plane with strong sun directly over another plane's exhaust trail but I don't think I have ever seen it on TV before though.

-Jerry C.

50PHD8UK should arrive by Tuesday at the latest.

Thanks to everyone here (and all of AVS, really) for the wonderful advice and amazing amount of real-world knowlege.

I'll post pics of my setup when it is ready. I have to spend the weekend painting and the carpeting will be installed on Monday.

I finally order E* for my TH42PHD8UK. I currently have the TY-42TM6D (DVI) blade. I was planning on getting an DVI to hdmi adapter but i'm not sure if i would be getting good HD picture. Would i be better going off with the new TY-FB8HM blade? Is there a big difference from either source? Please help...........anyone....

Did you specifically order the TY-FB8HM? If VA doesn't currently have them in stock are you willing to wait longer? Now that the "8" series seems to be widely available with reasonable pricing --- it would make sense to me to buy it instead of the "7". Especially if you have already waited patiently to get the "8". Did it cost the same as the "7"?

I checked, and unfortunately I had ordered the 7. Shoot. From the reports I'm seeing (still waiting on Bruzzi's comparison of the two), I'll probably get an 8 anyway, and try to sell the 7 or something.

Regarding the Harmony remote, I emphatically echo JerryNY's comments regarding ease of set-up and use... I was just concerned as to whether there is anything special to know about the Harmony once an HDMI board is installed.

I was just concerned as to whether there is anything special to know about the Harmony once an HDMI board is installed.

Nope, the TV will consider whatever is in slot 2 input number 2 for example. So if you had the S-Video/composite blade in slot 2 and your harmony was using this for a VCR it will still use the same command for slot 2 if you have an HDMI board in it. You may want to edit the names you have on the remote to suit the new blade though. I was using the original composite blade for an input for my Yamaha YSP's onscreen menus but now have my cable box using the HDMI blade in that slot. I just went to Logitech's site and changed the inputs around and renamed some stuff and all is good. If you are using the same source with the same slot with a different blade then you don't have to change anything at all.

-Jerry C.

Thanks for the confirmation, Jerry (and, yep, specifically the TWCNYC SA box :) ).

Is it OK to post a pic here in this thread? I just happened to take it for something else.

Richard

I checked, and unfortunately I had ordered the 7. Shoot. From the reports I'm seeing (still waiting on Bruzzi's comparison of the two), I'll probably get an 8 anyway, and try to sell the 7 or something.


Since It's unopened why don't you return it ??? ;)

I'm curious mainly to compare both Boards with 1080i signals. "Supposedly" the TY-FB7HM can only shown 540 lines while the TY-FB8HM the full 1080.

We'll see. ;)

Well, I just sent an email to VA to see if I can exchange it.

Looking forward to your comparison.

Richard

I checked, and unfortunately I had ordered the 7. Shoot. From the reports I'm seeing (still waiting on Bruzzi's comparison of the two), I'll probably get an 8 anyway, and try to sell the 7 or something.

Plazman compared the 7 to the 8 and saw no PQ differences. He did, however, report that the 8 works better for input switching. Apparently the 7 has some sync issues. His post is around here somewhere...

Since It's unopened why don't you return it ??? ;) I'm curious mainly to compare both Boards with 1080i signals. "Supposedly" the TY-FB7HM can only shown 540 lines while the TY-FB8HM the full 1080. We'll see. ;)
Bruzzi,

I fully agree with you --- if rpodos can return the "7" and get an "8" for about the same price --- it would be a wise move. Although NOT because of the urban myth that the "7" did 540-lines at 1080i (I believe Sasquatch probably started that ridiculous "rumor" :D ).

I just saw an "8" listed on eBay for double MSRP. What a deal! :rolleyes: But, now that main-stream suppliers have these in stock and aren't charging exorbitant prices it just seems logical to go with the "latest" generation board? From what Plazman has reported, the "8" has noticeably improved. Well, not twice the resolution --- but never-the-less a real improvement...

I'm very eager to hear your (valued) opinion when you compare these two boards... :)

Plazman compared the 7 to the 8 and saw no PQ differences. He did, however, report that the 8 works better for input switching. Apparently the 7 has some sync issues. His post is around here somewhere...

Yes. If you have a device that requires HDCP syching the 8 series board is the way to go. I have zero synching issues with my HD DVD player. With the 7 series board I had to make sure to have the display turned on first, or there would be no synch with the player. Also, switching inputs would cause the display to lose synch with the HD DVD player and start the disk from the begining.

I honestly can't tell any PQ difference between the two boards. Perhaps, the differences can be seen if you calibrate the display properly. In other words the 8 series could potentially have a better PQ. But I would get it on the stability factor alone!

Initially I thought that the component and/or VGA was equivalent with hdmi for pq - but isn't so. The hdmi has much more of a 3D effect with colors and sharpness (IMHO). I recommend this board to anyone over the 7 series (which is fine for your cable-box).

Connected my X-Box to the 8UK and played MVP Baseball 2004. Saw very noticeable lag there. Connection was with component to receiver then component to TV. I then tried connecting directly from X-Box to TV via component. Still had lag issues with this game. Read through a lot of post on this thread and no one reported game lag. Is there anything that can be done about this? Will try other games this weekend to see if this is specific to this game.

BTW, if anyone still looking for 8 series HDMI card, Buy.com has them. Put in the order Monday, then was sent email saying not in stock. I didn't cancel order, and got another email Wednesday that it shipped out. Will get it today.

I then tried connecting directly from X-Box to TV via component. Still had lag issues with this game. Read through a lot of post on this thread and no one reported game lag. Is there anything that can be done about this?

I don't see any lag at all when I have my Gamecube plugged in through component. Plasmas in general have little in the way of lag.

-Jerry C.

Hi all -

Is this the real deal? Check out ebay item 220005130661. Seems like a decent proce for a hard-to-find item.

Hi all -

Is this the real deal? Check out ebay item 220005130661. Seems like a decent proce for a hard-to-find item.
You can now find this cheaper from a reputable dealer.

xbox connected to onkyo hts780 reciever via component. receiver connected to th50phd8uk via high quality component. no lag to speak of. keep in mind i dont have the game you have, but some GAMES can lag.

I tried MVP Baseball 2004 again this weekend and there definitely is lag there. My timing is totally off when I went from my crt TV to the 8UK. I didn't notice it on my other games. Although, the other games I tried are not that sensitive to the timing.

I tried MVP Baseball 2004 again this weekend and there definitely is lag there. My timing is totally off when I went from my crt TV to the 8UK. I didn't notice it on my other games. Although, the other games I tried are not that sensitive to the timing.
maybe its the xbox having trouble with the game? gotta be an xbox thread around here....

One day only harmony 880 for 100.00 from dell. http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=us&l=en&cs=19&sku=A0466823


I got what i was looking for.......

Can someone post the settings use should use for an 8UK during normal use? And if it's different, what you should use for the 1st 100 hours?

Thanks. I've searched but can't find any settings listed.

Just got mine this morining.... WOW.

Truly amazing.

just watching finding nemo and it is incredible.

I have no idea what you guys are talking about saying ntsc looks like crap.... to me it is very passable and, yes, it is a bit pixelated compared to dvd with progressive scan, but hey good enough.

dialed down the settings and will watch movies full size and limit tv channels with the little things in the corners for a while.

Again amazing....

Can someone post the settings use should use for an 8UK during normal use? And if it's different, what you should use for the 1st 100 hours?

Thanks. I've searched but can't find any settings listed.

Anyone?

:D :) :D

Mine is coming this week....can't seem to find the 8uk-specific "break-in" settings either... anyone?

Anyone?

:D :) :DDid you search this thread for "break-in" ? :)

It seems like everyone has an opinion on how a plasma should properly be "broken-in" and for how many hours.

You can never go wrong if you follow BruZZi: http://www.glaucobruzzi.com/plasma-faq/showthread.php?t=49
Look for section titled: "Plasma Break-In".

Or, this message is rather typical on this subject: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7359494&&#post7359494

There are a million of them... :D

Don't tell anyone that I told you this, but if you don't do anything to break it in, it might be fine... But, I never told you THAT. Actually, if you just follow what Bruzzi's FAQ suggests --- you'll be fine. That's what I did.

If you're talking calibration it gets even more contentious... Search for "calibration".

Bruzzi,

I fully agree with you --- if rpodos can return the "7" and get an "8" for about the same price --- it would be a wise move. Although NOT because of the urban myth that the "7" did 540-lines at 1080i (I believe Sasquatch probably started that ridiculous "rumor" :D

The manual for the TY-FB7HM states that.




I'm very eager to hear your (valued) opinion when you compare these two boards... :)


Oh Well, after testing both Boards for more than three days I can honestly say that... I COULDN'T SEE A DIFFERENCE !!!

Seriously!!! Many times I thought the TY-FB8HM had a bit better PQ just to realize I was wrong playing the same scene again and seeing no difference at all. Many other times the TY-FB7HM looked sharper :eek: than the TY-FB8HM but the same way, my eyes were wrong.

In the end of each test, I got a frikking headache forcing my eyes to see an advantage on the TY-FB8HM. :( :( :(

The test was made with DVD players (Oppo 971H /Toshiba HD-A1). To be fair I even swapped the Boards (actually the cables ;) ). Too bad I couldn't use the split screen (can't use 2 Digital inputs :( ) like I did with the Oppo/Panny RP-82 Comparison.

I can't say anything about other sources.

Too bad I couldn't use the split screen (can't use 2 Digital inputs :( ) like I did with the Oppo/Panny RP-82 Comparison.

I can't say anything about other sources.


Why not? I have a TY-FB8HM and the DVI blade, both digital, and I can watch both inputs split screen. All I know is that from day one with both the DVI and HDMI blades in the plasma I have been able to use both at the same time. Just tonight I was watching the Yankee game on YES in HD hooked up though HDMI and surfed on my Mac mini hooked up through DVI at the same time. Am I not understanding something you wrote?

-Jerry C.

The manual for the TY-FB7HM states that.
I know that the TY-FB7HM manual listed the 1080 mode as having 540 lines. But, as I originally (and repeatedly) remarked --- it simply isn't possible to have a 1080 mode with 540 lines. If it had 540 lines of resolution it would not be a 1080 but a 540 mode.

What I find amusing is that so many people believe everything they read. If the Panasonic manual says so, it just has to be true? :rolleyes:

It doesn't seem so hard to understand that Panasonic made a boo-boo... A mis-print... An error.

But, now that you've checked the two boards and you have not found the TY-FB8HM to be TWICE as good when set to 1080i --- maybe the urban myth can be put to bed... On second thought, I doubt it. Once a rumor gets started it's almost impossible to quash. :)

Thanks for the report! :cool:

But, now that you've checked the two boards and you have not found the TY-FB8HM to be TWICE as good when set to 1080i --- maybe the urban myth can be put to bed...


Shamelessly ripped off from This Is Spinal Tap :

Nigel Tufnel: The number on the TY-FB8HM goes to EIGHT. Look, right across the board, EIGHT, EIGHT, EIGHT and...

Marty DiBergi: Oh, I see. And most HDMI boards go up to SEVEN?

Nigel Tufnel: Exactly.

Marty DiBergi: Does that mean it's got better PQ? Is it any sharper?

Nigel Tufnel: Well, it's one sharper, isn't it? It's not SEVEN. You see, most blokes, you know, will be watching a TY-FB7HM. You're on SEVEN here, all the way up, all the way up, all the way up, you're on SEVEN on your blade. Where can you go from there? Where?

Marty DiBergi: I don't know.

Nigel Tufnel: Nowhere. Exactly. What we do is, if we need that extra push over the cliff, you know what we do?

Marty DiBergi: Put in an EIGHT?

Nigel Tufnel: EIGHT. Exactly. One higher.

Marty DiBergi: Why don't you just make the TY-FB7HM newer and put in an EIGHT making it equivalent to the newer one?

Nigel Tufnel: [pause] These go to EIGHT. :D

-Still I think the newer blades have better HDCP handshake and that makes them a better choice, if given one ;)

-Jerry C.

:D

http://i.rollingstone.com/assets/rs/12/42560/images/00103589_lg.jpg

Shamelessly ripped off from This Is Spinal Tap :

-Still I think the newer blades have better HDCP handshake and that makes them a better choice, if given one ;)

-Jerry C.Paraphrasing an obscure mockumentary... How clever. :D

If I were going to get a HDMI blade I too would get a TY-FB8HM if it wasn't over-priced and if it wasn't indefinitely backordered. If for no other reason than the one Nigel Tufnel "mentioned". :p

But I wouldn't expect the "8" to have twice the resolution as the "7" blade. And, don't most people prefer a nice, firm handshake. :D

Besides that, it is "ONE HIGHER"!

Yes, I'd rate my 8-series blade a solid eleven. :D

I don't care if it doubles or tripples the lines. It looks better than the component... and the component looked fantastic. Not only that, but so far a flawless operation. ;)

shane

Quick post to show my setup. Finally got everything plugged in and running for the first time this weekend.
The picture quality isn't great, mainly because I'm running it in stretched mode to minimize the black bars that are the result of a less-than-ideal resolution being sent by the computer.

Unfortunately, my HTPC had a VGA out, which doesn't seem capable of sending a proper 1366x768 signal out to the 8UK. The DVI board and a new video card have already shipped out. They'll be installed this week.

Without further ado...
http://home.wowway.com/~tangfoot/TV3.jpg

After seeing numerous posts on here about the improved PQ with the HDMI connection, I made the jump from component. Purchased the Board from V/A and the cables from MonoPrice. Hooked everything up, and I would agree that there is a difference in quality of HD feeds. Colors are brighter, and perhaps a touch sharper. However, I was dismayed to find that SD feeds were distorted. The colors were so bright that they "bled" the image, no sharpness at all.

One of the things I really like about the 50PHD8UK is that is broadcasts SD channels very well. I have seen other plasma displays that do not handle SD very well. I had no problem watching SD feeds on this display with the component connection. With the HDMI, however, the picture was just plain bad.

So, I've returned the Board to V/A. The picture quality via component is absolutely fine, great actually. While you get a minimally improved picture with HD feeds, that does not outweigh the distortion of SD feeds, or the cost of this Board and cables.

Just my two cents worth.

You know I am beginning to wonder if there is a vast difference in PQ depending on cable boxes. With my SA 8300HD I prefer the SD image with HDMI over component. It just looks better to me using HDMI. The problem with comparisons in the 50PHD8UK is it has no internal tuner so you never really know what you are "testing", is it the TV or is it the source? Just my $0.02.

-Jerry C.

You know I am beginning to wonder if there is a vast difference in PQ depending on cable boxes. With my SA 8300HD I prefer the SD image with HDMI over component. It just looks better to me using HDMI. The problem with comparisons in the 50PHD8UK is it has no internal tuner so you never really know what you are "testing", is it the TV or is it the source? Just my $0.02.

-Jerry C.

For what it's worth, I am using a Comcast Dual Tuner DVR cable box.

For what it's worth, I am using a Comcast Dual Tuner DVR cable box.

That could be the problem since the HDMI board does not accept 480i, you have to use the horrible de-interlacer in these boxes. I tried the 6412 hdmi 480i for SD to my Lumagen scaler and it looked much better.

- Rich

I have the Comcrap Moto 6412 PIII STB. Aside from the fact that the unit is a POS of biblical proportions, the image over HDMI is noticeably better on HDMI for *both* HD and SD (over component to either PC or BNC inputs). Trust me… I abhor this STB. It could possibly be the A/V equivalent of the Yugo. :mad: :mad:

Yes, initially the colors were pumped-up on both, but with appropriate adjustment, all is well. I see no gross distortion or untoward aberrant PQ problems such as bleed-over or lack of sharpness. In other words, in all instances, the HDMI blade allows for a better PQ from all channels… analog, digital, HD, SD. :D

I output 1080i / 480p.

shane

I use the same- 1080i/480p. It really is too bad that the DVI blades and 7/8 series HDMI boards don't take a 480i signal (I have DVI out from my comcast STB- 480i out to DVI board gives no picture, as does DVI->HDMI adpater to 7th gen HDMI blade with a 7UY series panel), as I'd really like to at least have my display do the deinterlacing. I'd also like for a pass-through mode on the cable box, but that is a topic for another time (comcast's DVR being a general POS).

I agree... how difficult would it be to allow for a 480i input over HDMI?
It obviously accepts it over component, so it does scale it properly... so why not?
This is perhaps my biggest disappointment of this panel (and even THAT is not so big ;) )

shane

I use the same- 1080i/480p. It really is too bad that the DVI blades and 7/8 series HDMI boards don't take a 480i signal (I have DVI out from my comcast STB- 480i out to DVI board gives no picture, as does DVI->HDMI adpater to 7th gen HDMI blade with a 7UY series panel), as I'd really like to at least have my display do the deinterlacing. I'd also like for a pass-through mode on the cable box, but that is a topic for another time (comcast's DVR being a general POS).


funny. I was about to ask Shane the same thing! Why not use pass-through? That's what I use on my SA 8300 STB (cox) and the picture is better than any combination of scaling I do on the STB. The difference in 720p scaling is most noticeable. For the longest time I used 1080i/480p and then switched to pass-through and the PQ improved on several channels. Who knows why :confused:

Hey Plaz... nice Avatar!

No pass-through on this POS. :mad:
This Moto box provides two things:

1) an outstanding HD PQ.
2) the most irritating user experience since Windows 3.1

shane

Indeed.

Here's to hoping for an improvement with the new comcast Tivo box software (and a bigger HDD).

For dual tuner HD recording from a QAM encyrpted signal (which is basically everything I want to watch minus PBS in HD) it's sadly the only game in town for many people (myself included).

I'm deciding between a 50" 8uk and getting a 50" NEC XR5. One thing that the NEC has is a 2:35 zoom mode for movies with that aspect ratio. Since a majority of my movies are 2:35 this seems like a good feature. Does anybody know if the 8uk has a similar capability? Thanks

I'm deciding between a 50" 8uk and getting a 50" NEC XR5. One thing that the NEC has is a 2:35 zoom mode for movies with that aspect ratio. Since a majority of my movies are 2:35 this seems like a good feature. Does anybody know if the 8uk has a similar capability? Thanks

So it chops off the sides of the image instead of the top and bottom? Why is that a desirable feature?

So it chops off the sides of the image instead of the top and bottom? Why is that a desirable feature?

There is no way to show a 2.35:1 image full screen on a 16:9 display without zooming, cropping, distorting the image, or a combination of all three.

The NEC 2.35:1 mode seems to do a little of all three and it looks ok. I still prefer OAR personally.

It's especially nice with HD DVD as there is no perceived loss of resolution or blurring.

So it chops off the sides of the image instead of the top and bottom? Why is that a desirable feature?


The 8UK has a zoom function that will take a 480p or 480i (DVD) movie and zoom it to fill the entire screen. However, in general I don't like zooming since it distorts the image slightly (plus loss of resolution) - although it will fill your screen.

As cpcat mentions the NEC's zoom unlike the Panny which works only for 480p and 480i will also work for 720p and 1080i (i.e. if you are using an HD DVD player). IMHO it makes more sense to zoom on 1080i or 720p v. 480p/i because the loss of resolution due to zooming on higher res content is smaller. So, the XR5 has a better zooming feature than the 8UK.

The newer panny 60/600 will zoom all resolutions (like the NEC) and probably the new 9UK will do the same.

On the plus side even watching all my movies with the black bars leaves no trace of IR on the 8UK - not once.

Don't believe the 9UK changed that feature.

Like I said, I'm an OAR kind of guy so I don't understand why people are hot to zoom HD content. About the only time I'd like to do it is when 4:3 stuff gets encoded into a 16:9 frame, but never for a 2.35:1 to 16:9 crop/stretch. I'm also not worried about burn in or anything... to each their own I guess. :)

Like I said, I'm an OAR kind of guy so I don't understand why people are hot to zoom HD content. About the only time I'd like to do it is when 4:3 stuff gets encoded into a 16:9 frame, but never for a 2.35:1 to 16:9 crop/stretch. I'm also not worried about burn in or anything... to each their own I guess. :)I can't stand to watch a distorted (stretched, zoomed or whatever) picture... Having said that, there are occasionally programs which I want to watch that are broadcast with bars on the top & botton AND on the left & right. My purist tendencies do not object when I use the "crop" format that my D* receiver offers. The resulting picture doesn't look at all distorted to me but does fill the screen. I don't know if this degrades the sharpness. Doesn't seem to?

I'm also not sure if this is the 2.35:1 aspect ratio that is being discussed or not. Why do they broadcast programs with bars on all four sides? I'm sure there's a perfectly logical reason and I just don't know what it is. :)

If the network is broadcasting something in SD "widescreen" where the top and bottom are black bars and just use the same feed on their HD channel you get this black bar all around effect. They could do the right thing and show it in full screen on the HD widescreen channel but they are just being lazy about it.

-Jerry C.

Like I said, I'm an OAR kind of guy so I don't understand why people are hot to zoom HD content. About the only time I'd like to do it is when 4:3 stuff gets encoded into a 16:9 frame, but never for a 2.35:1 to 16:9 crop/stretch. I'm also not worried about burn in or anything... to each their own I guess. :)
Full agreement here.

shane

Thanks for the replies. I guess part of wanting to stretch 2:35 movies was to prevent IR, since everyone talks about stretching 4:3 material, I thought the same would apply. The second reason is that I'm coming from a 57" LCD rear projection that doesn't have very good blacks. You don't notice it as much when the whole screen is filled, but it becomes obvious about the lack of black level when there are black bars on the screen.

Why not? I have a TY-FB8HM and the DVI blade, both digital, and I can watch both inputs split screen. All I know is that from day one with both the DVI and HDMI blades in the plasma I have been able to use both at the same time. Just tonight I was watching the Yankee game on YES in HD hooked up though HDMI and surfed on my Mac mini hooked up through DVI at the same time.


Am I not understanding something you wrote?

-Jerry C.

Jerry, I was actually asking a question... sorry I posted the wrong smilie.
It should read : "can't use 2 Digital inputs??? :confused: "

For some reason I couldn't use both HDMI Boards. No matter what. I'm about to sell my Oppo 971H so I won't have any other source with HDMI to test for some time.

I have Directv H20 feeding Panny 8uk. When it is on an HD station I get a crisp picture but with moving bands of interference across the screen. I do not get the interference with SD. I also do not get the interference with DVD. I think I have a bad satellite box (H20). Any comments will be helpful. Also I checked my coax connections and my component connections. HD on another set upstairs has no interference. :o

Jerry, I was actually asking a question... sorry I posted the wrong smilie.
It should read : "can't use 2 Digital inputs??? :confused: "

For some reason I couldn't use both HDMI Boards. No matter what. I'm about to sell my Oppo 971H so I won't have any other source with HDMI to test for some time.


Ah, I have noticed that sometimes the panel defaults back to the wrong input with two digitals though. This often happens when one of the digital inputs has no signal, like when the Mac mini goes to sleep. All I do it put it in multi-pip mode and hit swap and then change the input back to what I want and all is well. Other than that it doesn't give me trouble. I have the 8th gen HDMI blade and the DVI blade, could it be the 7th gen HDMI blade somehow holds the works back? You really should get rid of the 7th gen blade for an EIGHT. It is ONE better after all ;)

-Jerry C.

I have Directv H20 feeding Panny 8uk. When it is on an HD station I get a crisp picture but with moving bands of interference across the screen. I do not get the interference with SD. I also do not get the interference with DVD. I think I have a bad satellite box (H20). Any comments will be helpful. Also I checked my coax connections and my component connections. HD on another set upstairs has no interference. :o

I have seen this a few times as well. I've only noticed it on a couple HD channels in black scenes -- horizontal bands of dark colors scrolling from bottom to top. I'm pretty sure it's a ground loop -- the cable ground is different than the TV/STB/DVD/REC ground. I'm probably going to get a ground isolator like mentioned on this thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7440519&&#post7440519).

I have the Comcrap Moto 6412 PIII STB. Aside from the fact that the unit is a POS of biblical proportions, the image over HDMI is noticeably better on HDMI for *both* HD and SD (over component to either PC or BNC inputs). Trust me… I abhor this STB. It could possibly be the A/V equivalent of the Yugo. :mad: :mad:

Yes, initially the colors were pumped-up on both, but with appropriate adjustment, all is well. I see no gross distortion or untoward aberrant PQ problems such as bleed-over or lack of sharpness. In other words, in all instances, the HDMI blade allows for a better PQ from all channels… analog, digital, HD, SD. :D

I output 1080i / 480p.

shane
appropriate adjustments? how? the color adjustment is not there! help! oversaturated colors! cant turn down! arrrghh. :mad:

appropriate adjustments? how? the color adjustment is not there! help! oversaturated colors! cant turn down! arrrghh. :mad:
Ah, this again....
Apparently some STB's allow Tint and Color adjustment when HDMI is used. Some don't.
My Moto box, while a horrendous POS in terms of functionality and user interface, puts out a great HD image as well as allows me to adjust these two settings. Yours may not.

Someone once posted a work-around for this, but I can not remember what it was as it didn't concern me. Sorry. It had something to do with the type of signal you pass from STB to HDMI board.

Good luck.

shane

Ah, this again....
Apparently some STB's allow Tint and Color adjustment when HDMI is used. Some don't.
My Moto box, while a horrendous POS in terms of functionality and user interface, puts out a great HD image as well as allows me to adjust these two settings. Yours may not.

Someone once posted a work-around for this, but I can not remember what it was as it didn't concern me. Sorry. It had something to do with the type of signal you pass from STB to HDMI board.

Good luck.

shane
can anybody else help me? i have a dish vip211. hdmi has too much color.

Can someone provide or link suggested picture settings for the 8UK?

Thanks.

Can someone provide or link suggested picture settings for the 8UK?

Thanks.An ISF calibration is the way to go, but what if instead, you just fiddle with the settings until they look good to you? Worse comes to worst just reset the settings back to defaults...

Proper calibration (settings) vary from room to room and especially in different room light levels (daytime to nightime).

I could use some help regarding an older Panasonic commercial panel and figure that this is the best place to post the question. A friend gave me a series 5 model Panasonic commercial unit. I understand that I can use the VGA input as another component connection with an appropriate VGA -->component cable. I installed the cable and changed the PC input to Component from RGB. However, the picture is still green. I want to use this input for a dvd. Any thoughts as to what the problem is? This is a new cable from Monoprice.

Thanks in advance...

Sounds like you did it all correctly, people often forget to do the menu change from VGA to component. Make sure the RCA plugs are on the right color as it can be easy to mix up blue and green. Other than that I am not sure why it wouldn't work correctly. You might want to try unplugging the TV and plugging it in again.

-Jerry C.

Thanks...I checked the cables and they are in the right blue/green spots. I unplugged and replugged the set. Still green. The only other thing that I can think of is that the cable is bad? Are there any other settings on either the PC input on the tv or the dvd player that I need to change?

I understand that I can use the VGA input as another component connection with an appropriate VGA -->component cable...

Sorry LisaM, that feature was introduced on the 6th Generation Commercial Displays.
You'll need a transcoder for the VGA input.


.

How did she change the menu item from VGA to component if it doesn't support this? And if it doesn't why even have a menu item for it? ;) Lisa, are you sure it is a 5th gen panel?

-Jerry C.

The model number is 42PWD5. Bruzzi, what is a transcoder?

If I can't use the VGA input as a second component, I guess that I could either buy a component blade or a component switcher (if they make them) so that the dvd and HD dvr could share the single component input, correct?

Yes, many AV recievers can do component switching and it is a good choice with a commercial Panasonic as it doesn't have speakers built-in speakers to begin with. You could send all your outputs into the receiver and have the receiver do all the switching.

-Jerry C,.

I just purchased and installed the DVI board for my 50 8UK. However, I cannot get the image to render properly in Normal mode.
The only way I can get a full screen is to put the panel in Full.

Is this the way that others are achieving 1366x768 pixel perfect on their 50s?

I am running an ATI x1600 out of my HTPC, if that is relevant.

I just purchased and installed the DVI board for my 50 8UK. However, I cannot get the image to render properly in Normal mode.
The only way I can get a full screen is to put the panel in Full.

Is this the way that others are achieving 1366x768 pixel perfect on their 50s?

I am running an ATI x1600 out of my HTPC, if that is relevant.


Come on, guys. I can NOT be the only person using an HTPC with a 50 8UK.

Come on, guys. I can NOT be the only person using an HTPC with a 50 8UK.Looks like that's the case... :)

What's wrong with using "Full" mode instead of "Normal"? I use a DVI terminal board to connect my Denon AVR-4306's HDMI output and the only aspect available to me is "Full".

I don't use a HTPC. If there was a HTPC tuner card for DirecTV I would! As it is, I once connected a regular old PC to the 8UK just to see how it looked (via VGA and DVI). Looked great but the PC didn't offer any benefit that I could get excited about. Surfing the net with my 8UK was interesting --- but not compelling.

The thought of a HTPC with satellite tuners would be a different story. :cool:

Looks like that's the case... :)

What's wrong with using "Full" mode instead of "Normal"? I use a DVI terminal board to connect my Denon AVR-4306's HDMI output and the only aspect available to me is "Full".

I don't use a HTPC. If there was a HTPC tuner card for DirecTV I would! As it is, I once connected a regular old PC to the 8UK just to see how it looked (via VGA and DVI). Looked great but the PC didn't offer any benefit that I could get excited about. Surfing the net with my 8UK was interesting --- but not compelling.

The thought of a HTPC with satellite tuners would be a different story. :cool:

I have no problem leaving it in Full, as long as I'm not "missing out" on something that Normal would have provided...My overscan has been reduced to about 1% and everything is beeeeyoootiful.

I have pretty much given up on the possiblity of using my HTPC as a DVR. My cable company offers one (with a SMALL 120 GB hard drive -- only capable of saving ~12 hours of HD), but that is the only way I am going to be able to save encrypted digital cable channels anyway.

My main uses for the HTPC are storage/playback of 300 DVDs in an always-on library (with cover art, descriptions, etc.), and my 600 CD audio collection.

I have no problem leaving it in Full, as long as I'm not "missing out" on something that Normal would have provided...My overscan has been reduced to about 1% and everything is beeeeyoootiful. I have pretty much given up on the possiblity of using my HTPC as a DVR. My cable company offers one (with a SMALL 120 GB hard drive -- only capable of saving ~12 hours of HD), but that is the only way I am going to be able to save encrypted digital cable channels anyway. My main uses for the HTPC are storage/playback of 300 DVDs in an always-on library (with cover art, descriptions, etc.), and my 600 CD audio collection.TangFoot,

Do you have the DVD of The Great Pumpkin addressing Congress about school prayer on your HTPC?

:D

TangFoot,

Do you have the DVD of The Great Pumpkin addressing Congress about school prayer on your HTPC?

:D

If I do, I'm certainly NOT going to discuss it here.

Well... with all this chatter about the new 9UK's coming speedily into people's homes, I thought I'd just revive this thread with a wee bump. ;)
It kinda bothered me to see this thread on page 10!!

Also wanted to post a couple links to my setup... :D

Cheers

shane

Wow... this is a HUGE Thread!!! My 9UK will be here Friday.... what are your feelings on initial settings (break-in) and then THE OPTIMUM settings once it's broken in?

My 9UK will be here Friday.... what are your feelings on initial settings (break-in) and then THE OPTIMUM settings once it's broken in?
Congrats on your 9UK purchase!

It amazed me how near-perfect the Cinema mode was upon being out-o'-box.
I decreased the Contrast by 5, Brightness by 3, color by 4, Tint by 1 and Sharpness by 2.

Since then, my contrast has gone up to +5, Brightness is at -1. Everything else has stayed the same.

These are my settings for my Comcrap Moto HD STB.

Gamma is at 2.2 and no black extension used.

shane

You guys should start a " My 50PH9UK impressions" thread. :D

.

I tried increasing the brightness on my TH42phd8uk but there was no noticeable difference. Any advice ?

I have the 42phd8uk and I do not seem to be able to increase the brightness by much. While the HD looks great, a brighter picture would be nice. Any comments ?

Make sure that the Peak Limit on ScreenSaver is set off.

I have an off question. I am sending a 1024 x 768 signal to the 8uk via pc, and it distorts the signal, or stretches it. But the panel says its native resolution is 1024x768. Any thoughts? Can I compensate for this?

I have an off question. I am sending a 1024 x 768 signal to the 8uk via pc, and it distorts the signal, or stretches it. But the panel says its native resolution is 1024x768. Any thoughts? Can I compensate for this?

I believe it's because the PC's video card is pushing that many square pixels while the 8UK, having the same resolution but a different aspect ratio (16:9) is trying to display it with rectangular pixels. I'm still a rookie to all this but I think that's accurate. I confess I haven't done much research on PC connections to HDTVs (I'm not planning on doing so in my living room) so I'm not sure what your path would be to correct the image. I'm sure someone else here can help with that.

Jason

hey guys

I am looking at getting this tv and am just planning connection options to other components. At present I have the nad t550 dvd player which is an oldy but a goody and only has scart/rgb and s-video out.



Anyway it has an rgb over scart connector and I was wondering if I could successfully connect this to the panasonic using one of the scart blades available? I am guessing it has rgb??

Also how does rgb over scart compare to component for video quality etc?

I know most people think hdmi is the way to go and this will be an option down the track with either a new dvd player of a stb. For the moment I would like to know if i can get my dvd player and this tv working using the scart/rgb and whether the video quality will be as good as component if not better.

Any help would be great guys

cheers

James

has any one here had there 508uk calibrated by a profesional. if so what were your opinions on the results

I know this is a bit off subject but I have a TH-50PHD8UK and now I am looking for a second plasma to put in my bedroom but it must have a DVD built in. Could anyone suggest any plasma that may come close to the TH-50PHD8UK :)

I finally got my TY-FB8HM board installed last night (once again, kudos to VA for taking a late return of the 7-series board).

I eyeballed the calibration, and yeah, good HD seems that much better... a little more 'pop'.

But I've got two problems: 1) we watch a fair bit of SD, and maaaan it looks like crap. 2) WE've gotten used to JUST over component, and going back to sidebars is a non-starter.

So, I think I'm going to go back to component for the STB, and used HDMI for by DVD player. When prices comes down I'll get an A1 or the equivalent for the superior upconversion.

A couple of questions:

a) There's no way to get both HDMI *and* component out of my STB, is there? It is a TWCNYC SA 3800. If I could, I'd leave the Panny on the component most of the time, and switch to HDMI when I (as opposed to my wife) am watching something good.

b) Pass-through? I've seen it referenced, but don;t know how to do it. I tried unplugging and rebooting the STB, and then hitting Guide and Info to access the settings, but nothing happened.

Anyone have good ideas?

Thanks,
Richard

Hi all,

Need some assistance. The weirdest issue popped up today. I always have my STB hooked to Input 1 - Just mode. However, this morning I saw the gray sidebars on SD channels when I turned the TV on. I tried pressing the aspect button a number of times, but it doesn't cycle through Normal, Just, Panansonic Auto, etc. Its just locked on to 16:9. Any help would be appreciated. The other inputs can still cycle through the various aspect settings.

Thanks

Hi Bruzzi,

Thanks for the FAQ on your forum site; unfortunately, some of the embedded links didn't launch...not sure why.

I am very intersted in the apparent value of the 50-8UK. Some questions I'd like to ask the forum include:

1) Any reason the 3,000:1 contrast ratio is an issue versus 10,000:1 consumer models? This unit will be installed in a basement with relatively low natural light (windows on west side only, TV on south wall)

2) Any reason to question the total number of colors available (3 - 8.9 billion or whatever versus 29 billion or whatever)?

All the reviews are very intriguing.

Also: I have in home entertainment center wired up, and will have digital cable with HD service, so no need for tuner or speakers -- makes sense to me not to buy them. What additional system boards are recommended? I will likely route signals from coax Cable input directly to display and peripheral signals from Marantz SR 670 receiver (do you have a best connection mode recommendation so I can make sure I have it?).

My end game will be to watch Digital input and HD input via coaxial cable directly hooked to display with audio fed back to the reciever from the display; to run DVD's via the the Marantz to the display route unless there's a better suggestion; to run video games via path of PS2 (for now) to DVD/VCR recorder to Marantz to display unless there's a better suggestion. Also would want to hook up a laptop intermittently.

I appreciate -- very much -- any comments from yourself or other forum posters on ideas for me.

Thanks

Brad C
Maple Grove, MN

Forgive my ignorance if this was already covered in an earlier post...

I have not been reading this for a while now since I changed jobs and got my 50/8UK....

Anyway, on to business.

I am trying to calibrate this puppy for a recent hookup I have for a multimedia machine I moved into the living room. We have no additional blades installed, so we have been using the VGA adapter for hookup.

Previously, we just hooked up the Dell laptop (700m) to the machine, waited until the system recognized the connection and gave us the resolutions and set it up, but there was always something strange with that.

We tried setting "wobble" on and off for screen protection and there does not seem to be any difference. The laptop always showed us two resolutions. One is 1366x806, and the other was something slightly less (which I do not remember off hand as I am currently writing this on the machine hooked up to the plasma).

Suffice to say it was something like 1358x798 or something.

But now that I have my box out here, it does not seem to see this smaller resolution.

After calibrating (no banding on horizontal or vertical text) I notice that the boundaries are significantly outside the edges of the screen. Even when adjusting to try to fit everything inside (with banding evident) there seems to be a top chop off of a few pixels.

Is this normal?

We have no clue what may be causing this and would appreciate any help or advice that may be given!

The computer is using an ATI 9800 pro with ATI driver 6.14.10.6476. The system is Windows XP Pro w/SP2.

Hi everyone,

Need some help with my TH-50PHD8UK. I just bought another component board for my panny, and I can't get video to it in slot 2. Here is how I have it configured

Slot 1 - HDMI
Slot 2 - New TY-42TM6Z component board (no BNCs, just regular component inputs)
Slot 3 - Original BNC Component board that comes up the display
Slot 4 (fixed) - VGA

I tried out the new board in Slot 3, and it works fine. And the old composite board was working in Slot 2 with no problems.

I know I can only use HDMI in slot 1. Can I use my component board in slot 2?

Thanks in advance

Hey Everyone,

I know this is probably the wrong place to post this question, but I'm desperate. I can't find where to find this info.

I just got an HDMI blade (TY-FB8HM) and put it in slot 1 on the tv. Then I plugged it into the STB (SA8300HD), but all I get is RGB and white snow (nothing like what I'm used to seeing for snowy screens).

What all do I need to do to get this set up?

I've checked the menus and it for input1, the Component/RGB selection is greyed out and is blank (not set at all). I'm not sure if this is supposed to be set to anything or not, but it isn't. However, it is picking up the signal as digital, so I assume it knows something is connected.

Am I supposed to do something on the SA8300HD that I'm not doing? Is there something else I'm supposed to do on the TV?

Thanks for the help!

Chad

Hey Everyone,

I know this is probably the wrong place to post this question, but I'm desperate. I can't find where to find this info.

I just got an HDMI blade (TY-FB8HM) and put it in slot 1 on the tv. Then I plugged it into the STB (SA8300HD), but all I get is RGB and white snow (nothing like what I'm used to seeing for snowy screens).

What all do I need to do to get this set up?

I've checked the menus and it for input1, the Component/RGB selection is greyed out and is blank (not set at all). I'm not sure if this is supposed to be set to anything or not, but it isn't. However, it is picking up the signal as digital, so I assume it knows something is connected.

Am I supposed to do something on the SA8300HD that I'm not doing? Is there something else I'm supposed to do on the TV?

Thanks for the help!

Chad

Nevermind...please forgive my ignorance. I would really like to just erase what I said so I don't look like an idiot, but just in case someone else has this problem, I'll go ahead and give what worked for me.

Make sure you turn the TV OFF before plugging in the new connection. Make both connections, then turn the TV back on. I know this sounds pretty basic, but I did this while I still had the Component cables plugged into the STB, so I'm assuming this was part of the problem.

Anyway, at my expense, I hope this helps someone else! :)

Nevermind...please forgive my ignorance. I would really like to just erase what I said so I don't look like an idiot, but just in case someone else has this problem, I'll go ahead and give what worked for me.

Make sure you turn the TV OFF before plugging in the new connection. Make both connections, then turn the TV back on. I know this sounds pretty basic, but I did this while I still had the Component cables plugged into the STB, so I'm assuming this was part of the problem.

Anyway, at my expense, I hope this helps someone else! :)

You very well may have saved me from going insane. I had been messing with my connection all night and couldn't figure it out until I saw this thread. Thanks, and I feel your pain.

You very well may have saved me from going insane. I had been messing with my connection all night and couldn't figure it out until I saw this thread. Thanks, and I feel your pain.

Good stuff! Glad I could help! :D