I have done a search, but really haven't found what I wanted.

I just bought a 5060HD (can't wait for it to get here Monday!), and am going over what all I need and how I plan to hook it up. I have a Samsung DVD-HD841 DVD player that I got for a good price a while back that I want to hook up. My question is, will it make a bigger difference to use a DVI to HDMI cable to hook it up or should I just use a component cable? I cannot remember if the upconverting feature of the DVD player is only thru the DVI output or not. Plus, I am not sure if I want to upconvert the signal or just send normal signal to the MR of the Pioneer and let it handle it.

Any thoughts for this newbie would be great.

Thanks
Nick

Use the DVI/HDMI cable for a couple of reasons:
Component cables carry an analog signal. The translation from digital to analog and back sometimes affects the clarity of the picture. Most, if not all upconverting players can only upconvert through DVI/HDMI rather than component. Some players allow a hack by entering a secret code through the remote to allow upconverting through component with varying degrees of success. See the DVD forum for your model. You should just experiment with the various options between your DVD player and TV to see which gives you the best picture. Since your TV and DVD player have the ability to do most of the same upconverting/deinterlacing functions, trial and error is the best way to maximize your viewing pleasure. The most important thing is to report the results of your trials back here!

Use the DVI/HDMI cable for a couple of reasons:
Component cables carry an analog signal. The translation from digital to analog and back sometimes affects the clarity of the picture. Most, if not all upconverting players can only upconvert through DVI/HDMI rather than component. Some players allow a hack by entering a secret code through the remote to allow upconverting through component with varying degrees of success. See the DVD forum for your model. You should just experiment with the various options between your DVD player and TV to see which gives you the best picture. Since your TV and DVD player have the ability to do most of the same upconverting/deinterlacing functions, trial and error is the best way to maximize your viewing pleasure. The most important thing is to report the results of your trials back here!

Ok, then it is off to get a cable. I saw in another post someone recomment MonoPrice.... I checked them out, they have a very nice price, but I question the quality since everyone here seems to say HDMI cables need to not be just a "cheapy". Recommendations?

Also, after reading some of the "official" burn in thread, so I need to follow burn in procedures first or can I use my AVIA calibration disc to set up my 5060?

monoprice's quality is fantastic from what others have said on here

just a note about the remote favorites, you can assign more than one channel to each favorites button.

I assigned all my sports channels to the green one :)

Thanks for this great tip. It really works well :)

I just bought a 1130HD and need to select a flat wall mount. As between Peerless and Sanus, is there any particular reason to select one over the other? I would like a mount that holds the panel as close to flush with the wall as possible (assuming strength, ease of installation etc. are comparable). Any consensus out there?

Thanks

two quick questions:

1. the tv guide option is only available if you use cable, not satellite, correct?

2. what's the best way to connect an OTA antenna? DTV has a local channel HD package, but i can pull those channels with an OTA antenna in my area (ABC, NBC, CBS, FOX)

got the HD installed yesterday, and i love the PQ, but am a little disappointed in programming as the basic package only includes 6 channels. i was looking forward to discovery HD, but it's just re runs of american chopper and monster garage.

also, my break in settings for my 4360 are as follows:

contrast -25
brightness -1
color -13
tint 0
i have the Pro settings adjusted as per DNice's post.
power is on save2

has anyone passed the break in point with a 4360/5060 and can provide some settings to use to tweak the PQ? or should i buy AVIA and calibrate it by eye?

i have also tried to vary my viewing to prevent burn in of channel logos. haven't seen anything yet, but i'm just wondering if watching 30min-1hour of a particular channel will make me susceptible of channel logo burn in. The World Poker Tour was on last night and i couldn't take my eyes off it, but i would periodically flip the channels for a second to wipe the card status/channel logo off the screen. after break in this won't be such an issue right?

1. Correct
2. Connect sat through one of the component or hdmi inputs, then run coax antenna to antenna A. Antenna A is the only one that can pick up digital channels. Then you can run the auto search for channels.

Settings -- I suggest using the settings you see here on the forum and then just doing small tweaks from there if you see something you dont like. In my experience, you need to get used to the set for a while (sometimes a few days) before you actually start to see things in the picture you want to adjust. That initial shock or wow-factor has to wear off. For a lot of the people here, the initial shock of how great the picture is has worn off, and finer tweaks have made their way into settings. You cant go wrong using that as a starting point, in my opinion.

On a brand new set with those contrast/brightness settings, I would only be worried after marathon sessions (6-8 hours) on the same channel. And even then it will only be image retention at the most, which will go away. Burn in would probably take days of continuous watching on the same channel. Just my thoughts after having my 1130 for quite a while now. I noticed some image retention on a couple occasions after 4-5 hours, and my settings were nowhere near ideal at the time. With ideal settings, you stretch that window out even farther. I would be more worried about aspect ratio bars than channel logos honestly.

1. Correct
Settings -- I suggest using the settings you see here on the forum and then just doing small tweaks from there if you see something you dont like. In my experience, you need to get used to the set for a while (sometimes a few days) before you actually start to see things in the picture you want to adjust. That initial shock or wow-factor has to wear off. For a lot of the people here, the initial shock of how great the picture is has worn off, and finer tweaks have made their way into settings. You cant go wrong using that as a starting point, in my opinion.


i have see a couple posts with different settings here but would you mind sharing your ideal settings for the 1130HD?

I just bought a 1130HD and need to select a flat wall mount. As between Peerless and Sanus, is there any particular reason to select one over the other? I would like a mount that holds the panel as close to flush with the wall as possible (assuming strength, ease of installation etc. are comparable). Any consensus out there?

Thanks

I only have experience with the peerless pswt-pioneer50 mount.. I think thats the correct spelling for the model.. either pwst or pswt, one of the two.

I found I wanted more support than the included bolts gave. The mount flexed quite a bit and I didnt feel comfortable with it until I went to the hardware store and purchase 2 more lag bolts to help. It comes with 4, I found I wanted a couple more. If I had to do it over from the beginning, I'd probably use something else, but now I'm satisfied with it after adding some additional bolts. You can do a search for peerless in this thread and my experiences will come up.

i have see a couple posts with different settings here but would you mind sharing your ideal settings for the 1130HD?
My settings are in my signature link.

There will be some variances between sets and definitely variance between other equipment, so dont hesitate to try others' settings to see if they fit your equipment better also.

I have comcast service with a motorola cable box, Dnice is on something else, so thats something to consider as well.

Ok, then it is off to get a cable. I saw in another post someone recomment MonoPrice.... I checked them out, they have a very nice price, but I question the quality since everyone here seems to say HDMI cables need to not be just a "cheapy". Recommendations?



Who is "everyone here" and where are they saying that? I'm quite happy with my Monoprice cables; bought a 3 foot and a 6 foot HDMI that, together with shipping, was less than $20 - or less than 1/4 of what the fine folks at Best Buy wanted to charge me for just one cable. It's digital - the signal either gets there or it doesn't. Spend more if you wish but it won't enhance the signal, PQ, sound, or anything else; the only thing it enhances is somebody else's wallet. Enhance your wallet instead - the difference in price buys a lot of beer and popcorn. :D

I only have experience with the peerless pswt-pioneer50 mount.. I think thats the correct spelling for the model.. either pwst or pswt, one of the two.

I found I wanted more support than the included bolts gave. The mount flexed quite a bit and I didnt feel comfortable with it until I went to the hardware store and purchase 2 more lag bolts to help. It comes with 4, I found I wanted a couple more. If I had to do it over from the beginning, I'd probably use something else, but now I'm satisfied with it after adding some additional bolts. You can do a search for peerless in this thread and my experiences will come up.

I got my 1130 last weekend and i got the flat mount that the tweeter store recommended. it puts the tv about 3-4 inches off the wall i woudl say and it seems very stable and very simpel to mount and use. unfortunately i dont remember the brand but when i get hoem tonight i will look at it and post the details - i did look on the tweeter website and i dont see it there.

:D 1. Correct
2. Connect sat through one of the component or hdmi inputs, then run coax antenna to antenna A. Antenna A is the only one that can pick up digital channels. Then you can run the auto search for channels.

Settings -- I suggest using the settings you see here on the forum and then just doing small tweaks from there if you see something you dont like. In my experience, you need to get used to the set for a while (sometimes a few days) before you actually start to see things in the picture you want to adjust. That initial shock or wow-factor has to wear off. For a lot of the people here, the initial shock of how great the picture is has worn off, and finer tweaks have made their way into settings. You cant go wrong using that as a starting point, in my opinion.

On a brand new set with those contrast/brightness settings, I would only be worried after marathon sessions (6-8 hours) on the same channel. And even then it will only be image retention at the most, which will go away. Burn in would probably take days of continuous watching on the same channel. Just my thoughts after having my 1130 for quite a while now. I noticed some image retention on a couple occasions after 4-5 hours, and my settings were nowhere near ideal at the time. With ideal settings, you stretch that window out even farther. I would be more worried about aspect ratio bars than channel logos honestly.

thanks for the reply. when watching tv, i always use the full, or cinema settings (curiously, the cinema setting has gone away since i switched to HDMI) most of my DVD's have the black bars at the top and bottom since a lot are 2.35:1 anamorphic or whatever. would this pose a problem while watching a 2-3hour dvd? should i hold off on DVD watching until after the 100 hour break in? and let me get this right, after the 100 hours, i'm MUCH less susceptible to burn in right? just a little paranoid. i know image retention goes away, but with my luck...

also, to comment on the monoprice HDMI cables:

i ordered a set last friday before their 2pmPST same day shipping cut off time. cables arrived on Monday and were of great quality. No sparklies or anything and the PQ and audio are great. i did step up to the 24awg cable though with the net jacket. even with the upgrade it was under $20. IMO, there's only so many ways to make a cable. if it's made with sufficient AWG cable and quality connectors, then it'll perform just as well as the $100 Monster Garba.... err.. Cable. I found it funny that while i was at my local BB last night, there were ZERO Monster HDMI Cables left. Price on the tag stand: $100. ;) :p :D

So how did you figure out how to delete channels? I saw you other post, about the tv guide, but that seems to simply delete them from the TV guide listing, when you simply use channel up and down, you still have all those unwanted channels....

I've had my 5060 for a week now and I'm loving it. Would love it even more if I could delete some of those nasty SD OTA channels.

I found his post on how to delete channels. Is anyone at home now that can try it?

Quote:
I found the solution today. I am referencing a 5060, but the 4360 should be the same.

Bring up the TV Guide. Using the left arrow (on your remote), toggle the cursor to the left on the service bar, until the box under "Today" is highlighted. It should be the logo for the channel appearing in your preview window. Depress the menu button, and this will open a hidden menu for editing your scanned channels (scroll down to edit channels, and depress enter). Turn channels off/on and auto-hide are two ways to bypass unwanted channels.

Yes, I just ordered mine from Monoprice... and wonderful pricing... definitely.

anyone able to answer my other question:

Also, after reading some of the "official" burn in thread, so I need to follow burn in procedures first or can I use my AVIA calibration disc to set up my 5060?

My settings are in my signature link.

There will be some variances between sets and definitely variance between other equipment, so dont hesitate to try others' settings to see if they fit your equipment better also.

I have comcast service with a motorola cable box, Dnice is on something else, so thats something to consider as well.

Thanks to the link with your settings. Did you determine those settings by eye or using equipment like a colorimeter?

:D

thanks for the reply. when watching tv, i always use the full, or cinema settings (curiously, the cinema setting has gone away since i switched to HDMI) most of my DVD's have the black bars at the top and bottom since a lot are 2.35:1 anamorphic or whatever. would this pose a problem while watching a 2-3hour dvd? should i hold off on DVD watching until after the 100 hour break in? and let me get this right, after the 100 hours, i'm MUCH less susceptible to burn in right? just a little paranoid. i know image retention goes away, but with my luck...



You should be ok with the DVDs as long as you mix them up with full screen pictures (HD cable/sat).

Thanks to the link with your settings. Did you determine those settings by eye or using equipment like a colorimeter?

Mark I Eyeball, along with some comparisons to other settings posted.

I found his post on how to delete channels. Is anyone at home now that can try it?

Bring up the TV Guide. Using the left arrow (on your remote), toggle the cursor to the left on the service bar, until the box under "Today" is highlighted. It should be the logo for the channel appearing in your preview window. Depress the menu button, and this will open a hidden menu for editing your scanned channels (scroll down to edit channels, and depress enter). Turn channels off/on and auto-hide are two ways to bypass unwanted channels.


This only deletes the channels out of the TV guide. When surfing with the Channel + and - you are still subjected to all the unwanted channels.

This only deletes the channels out of the TV guide. When surfing with the Channel + and - you are still subjected to all the unwanted channels.

I don't believe there is a way to delete scanned channels. My way around it now is to use the 4 favorite channel buttons. You can program all the digital channels into them and just surf using that. It could potentially be easier if you categorize them according to your liking. You can program more than 1 channel into each favorite button so you are not limited to just 4 channels.

So I finally am having mine delivered... I ordered the 5060 on Nov 12 and the shop told me I would have it in time for a holiday party ~12/14. They never amde it, but based on my involvement in this thread, and the fact that my wife's boss has the 1130, I researched the 1130. So then I had my sights on one to be delivered around Christmas.

The salesman was so pushy with the extended warranty that I hemmed and hawed.. He finally let go of the push and sold me one that is at a great price.... but thenhe pushed me off the list since others were willing to pay more with the Super Bowl coming up... I persisited, and FINALLY.... it has already been scheduled for delivery... So I get it delivered next Monday. I have a solid sound system awaiting the tv, with the wall mount already nearly pre-wired and the wall bracket up...... I will see about posting a pic once it is up and running (late next week). . Thanks to all of you for your input... and i will be implenting DNice's recommended settings right away... I still need to call the cable co for a Cable Card....

Cheers everybody,

Have a little dilemma. My 4 weeks old Pioneer 1130 has 1 dead (black) pixel about 1 inch from the bottom edge of the display. You can hardly see it during normal viewing. I've talked to my dealer and he wanted to send service guy to look at it. He said that these displays are made differently than older generations and in some cases dead pixels are fixable?!?!. He claimed that they can replace only part of the panel that has a problem?!?! To make the story short he agreed to exchange it. My questions to you guys (Pioneer plasma owners) are:

1. What are your personal experiences with dead, stuck pixels on Pioneers?

2. What are chances of getting replacement unit with bad pixel, or worse, more than one bad pixel?

Thanx,
ToJa

Anybody?

i just got my 1130 last weekend and it was nice - no problems - no dead pixels. i got at the local tweeter store and they have a 30 day unconditional return policy so worst case if i discovered a dead pixel i could just return it within those 30 days. but as i said - no problems so far.

Anybody?

Originally Posted by Toja
Cheers everybody,

Have a little dilemma. My 4 weeks old Pioneer 1130 has 1 dead (black) pixel about 1 inch from the bottom edge of the display. You can hardly see it during normal viewing. I've talked to my dealer and he wanted to send service guy to look at it. He said that these displays are made differently than older generations and in some cases dead pixels are fixable?!?!. He claimed that they can replace only part of the panel that has a problem?!?! To make the story short he agreed to exchange it. My questions to you guys (Pioneer plasma owners) are:

1. What are your personal experiences with dead, stuck pixels on Pioneers?

2. What are chances of getting replacement unit with bad pixel, or worse, more than one bad pixel?

Thanx,
ToJa

In your manual, on page 7, there is a statement that: "A minute number of inactive cell lights" would not constitute a defect.

Of course, your place of purchase could go above and beyond the manual in the spirit of customer service. For instance, TVAuthority, for AVS members, offers a "Pixel Perfect" warranty that allows a no penalty return/exchange of a Pioneer Plasma with any dead pixels. The shipping and wait for a replacement is a bummer, but at least there is an option.

Thanx BDEE1, VIVENTIS!

BDEE1, enjoy your new TV!

Seems like I was just unlucky one getting display with dead pixel. My dealer (ABT, Glenview,Il) said it will be exchanged next tuesday. Doesn't cost me anything.

ToJa

Thanx BDEE1, VIVENTIS!

BDEE1, enjoy your new TV!

Seems like I was just unlucky one getting display with dead pixel. My dealer (ABT, Glenview,Il) said it will be exchanged next tuesday. Doesn't cost me anything.

ToJa

You are lucky to have such a great dealer. My 5060 arrives next week. I hope it is a keeper!

I got my 1130 last weekend and i got the flat mount that the tweeter store recommended. it puts the tv about 3-4 inches off the wall i woudl say and it seems very stable and very simpel to mount and use. unfortunately i dont remember the brand but when i get hoem tonight i will look at it and post the details - i did look on the tweeter website and i dont see it there.

ok so the mount i got was an omnimount U3 Fixed (http://froogle.google.com/froogle_cluster?q=omnimount+u3&pid=4873105778505335792&oid=6610906474866766045&btnG=Search+Froogle&ei=2STsQ8isOoHqqwLOkbzlCA&sig2=xMP1vvfeXUuzCWFVaeNCKg&lmode=&addr=&scoring=mrd) hope that helps.

Sorry if this has been answered before.

How does the inputs on the 5060 work? I know there are about 4 inputs and each of them has their own set of input type (HDMI/component on only specific input). So is it that the maximum components i can connect 4? Or can i connect multiple components into a single input (By say, using both HDMI and component for Input 1), and the panel would automatically choose the one with signal?

The reason why i m asking is that i don't have a component capable receiver, I didn't know I would get a plasma this soon.

well, after a month on the waitlist for a panny 8uk, i just placed an order for a 4360HD with beyond plasma. i should have it next week - good times.

thanks to all for your posts to this thread - it certainly helped in the decision process. i'll let you know how the transaction and installation goes.

Jim

Sorry if this has been answered before.

How does the inputs on the 5060 work? I know there are about 4 inputs and each of them has their own set of input type (HDMI/component on only specific input). So is it that the maximum components i can connect 4? Or can i connect multiple components into a single input (By say, using both HDMI and component for Input 1), and the panel would automatically choose the one with signal?

The reason why i m asking is that i don't have a component capable receiver, I didn't know I would get a plasma this soon.


You can connect 2 sources to inputs 1 and 3 (1 HDMI and 1 component per input). That gives you at least six connections.

However, you will have to go into the menu to enable/disable the HDMI port to switch between the 2 components on inputs 1 and 3.

You are lucky to have such a great dealer. My 5060 arrives next week. I hope it is a keeper!

They are pretty good. 30 days return policy and the price I got it for was lower than the lowest internet price I could find. :D

You can connect 2 sources to inputs 1 and 3 (1 HDMI and 1 component per input). That gives you at least six connections.

However, you will have to go into the menu to enable/disable the HDMI port to switch between the 2 components on inputs 1 and 3.

I always wondered why there is a HDMI connection switch when all other plasmas just default to on. Now it makes sense so you can have 2 sources connected to 1 input and switch between them.

Hi everyone; was over at thedigitalbits.com checking out on an elite receiver power buy and also noticed that they have a powerbuy on the elite ll30 plasma delivered for a dealer in your area(?) for under five. I'm still a few months away from being ready to order but thought others might be interested. I know nothing about this site you'll have to do the homework yourselves, but if this is from an authorized dealer it sounds like a super deal. cheers Mike

Hi everyone; was over at thedigitalbits.com checking out on an elite receiver power buy and also noticed that they have a powerbuy on the elite ll30 plasma delivered for a dealer in your area(?) for under five. I'm still a few months away from being ready to order but thought others might be interested. I know nothing about this site you'll have to do the homework yourselves, but if this is from an authorized dealer it sounds like a super deal. cheers Mike

More than likely, your post will be edited by a mod due to it looking like an ad for that website.

Maybe. but I got the site info from the receivers forum checking out the elite 74 thread, they didn"t seem too concerned about it there. cheers Mike

I just bought a 1130HD and need to select a flat wall mount. As between Peerless and Sanus, is there any particular reason to select one over the other? I would like a mount that holds the panel as close to flush with the wall as possible (assuming strength, ease of installation etc. are comparable). Any consensus out there?

Thanks


I had an installation situation where the where the location of the studs in the wall would not allow me to center the TV in the exact desired position on the wall.
Having known the studs location before hand, I realised the only way I could make this work was to use a Wall mount with a generous amount of lateral shift, to position the 4360 precisely where I needed it. So i went to my local Best Buy store and picked up a Sanus mount with tilt option for APR. 250+ tax. It came with a huge array of hardware for different mounting options ie Brick wall- curved back - additional depths tv bracket screws, etc.
I was very impressed with the sturdiness of this mount and also the simplicity of it's instructions. Total mount time including setting 6- 3" lag screws was just 45 mins, with two people.

Can anyone comment on the "glare issue" of the 5060/61/elite? Is this specific to pios or plasmas in general?

...right in time for Valentines day.

My one month old PDP-5060 which has operated flawlessly so far may be starting to fail. No dead pixels, beatifull PQ, etc.

Last night it refused to accept any digital stations. I have received all the digital stations within my area without fail since the first day over an antennae in my attic. Checked the antennae and all connections and see no problem. I am receiving the analog stations.

This morning I tried it again and it is receiving some digital channels. Of course the Olympics isn't one of them. So much for HD Olympics.

I checked the antennae strength and for the stations I don't receive it is zero.

Tried an indoor antennae and no signal either.

Could it be that some stations transmitt 720p and some 1080i and one of them is failing on my box?

Pioneer support here I come.

...right in time for Valentines day.

My one month old PDP-5060 which has operated flawlessly so far may be starting to fail. No dead pixels, beatifull PQ, etc.

Last night it refused to accept any digital stations. I have received all the digital stations within my area without fail since the first day over an antennae in my attic. Checked the antennae and all connections and see no problem. I am receiving the analog stations.

This morning I tried it again and it is receiving some digital channels. Of course the Olympics isn't one of them. So much for HD Olympics.

I checked the antennae strength and for the stations I don't receive it is zero.

Tried an indoor antennae and no signal either.

Could it be that some stations transmitt 720p and some 1080i and one of them is failing on my box?

Pioneer support here I come.

Try rescanning the channels

Yeah, I was going to suggest rescanning. In the HDTV section of this website, there is a place for local broadcast threads. The one for my local OTA, I found a posting that my local NBC station had a problem with an encoder and had to go to an older one. I noticed last night that I was no longer getting 11.001, my local OTA NBC HD channel. I had to rescan and the NBC HD station came back. I gather that HD transmission equipment are still pretty much on the edge and reliabilibity of good consistant transimission is almost here.

I had also asked there and I'll ask here a question about the tuner. HD OTA stations I have found are called 2.1, 4.1, 7.1, etc. However, on my Pioneer 1130, the tuner will display OTA stations as 2.001, 4.001, etc. The responder said that there is no standard to how the manufacturers of an HD reciever will display the channel. Some say 2-1, 4-1, or 2-01, etc. Do others who use the OTA reciever on their 4360, 5060 or 1130 also see the same thing? Thanks!

Nelson

Can the stand on the 4360 be replaced with the elite swival stand?
I need to be able to turn the set slightly to view, plus I just don't like the standard stand looks at all.

Also, can the speakers be floor mounted or do they have to be attached? I have a space issue and at 48" it puts me over :(

Does anyone know if I can use the PDK-1013 stand with a 5060hd?

Does anyone know if I can use the PDK-1013 stand with a 5060hd?Yes, all of Pioneer's plasma stands are interchangeable.

Last time I promise ;) This is the best yet...just one small correction on the yellow color management control.....

Main Menu:
AV Selection: Pure
Contrast: 30
Brightness: -1
Color: 0
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -2

Pro Adjust
Pure Cinema: ADV

Color Detail:
Color Temp: Manual
R High: -4
G High: -5
B High: -2
R Low: -4
G Low: -5
B Low: -6
CTI: Off

Color Management:
R: -1
Y: -5
G: -7
C: +6
B: -2
M: -1

NR:
DNR: Off
MPEG NR: Low

DRE:
DRE: High
Black Level: On
ACL: Off
Gamma: 2
Others:
I-P Mode: 1


Hi, thanks for the settings. Just one question, is this for the burn-in period? Is it suitable for periods after the burn-in period too? Thanks

Edit: Also, i can't find all the settings on my 5060, is it because these settings are for the Elite? Can i use it for the 5060?

Edit: Also, i can't find all the settings on my 5060, is it because these settings are for the Elite? Can i use it for the 5060?

No you cannot. Here are some break-in settings for you....

Main Menu
AV Selection: User
Contrast: 25
Brightness: +1
Color: -12
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -3

Pro Adjust
Pure Cinema: ADV

Color Detail
Color Temp: Low

CTI: Off

NR
DNR: Low
MPEG NR: Low

u got those specs memorized man? :D

After a month or so of lurking here, I'm about ready to jump for the Pio 5060, and plan on purchasing from DTV City. As an authorized Pio dealer, I would expect them to be reputable -- just thought I'd ask if others have had experience with them. (hope that question doesn't break any forum rules....)
This site has been a terrific resource -- many thanks to all who give so freely of their time and knowledge to make it so.

I just bought my 5060 from them as well, received it a week ago. They seem fine if mayb their reps are just not too patient sometimes, and they are not a big fan at greeting customers and saying thank you. But my purchasing experience was alright overall. They forgot to add my free 2 yr extended service for me, they fixed it. There was one particular rep i liked, she's at extension 112, she has better manners than the other ones.

QUESTION REGARDING THE PANEL AND NBC: Does anyone know why on WNBC-DT at new york, i only get mono sound, and i get picture noises, like individual pixels lighting up white and black at random. It only happens for NBC. Any help is appreciated.

After a month or so of lurking here, I'm about ready to jump for the Pio 5060, and plan on purchasing from DTV City. As an authorized Pio dealer, I would expect them to be reputable -- just thought I'd ask if others have had experience with them. (hope that question doesn't break any forum rules....)
This site has been a terrific resource -- many thanks to all who give so freely of their time and knowledge to make it so.

DTV quoted me a price several hundred dollars higher than Coza Electronics, also an authorized Pio dealer. Every call brings different responses, but I would also be calling Coza, Invision, Beyond Plasma and Satellite and Sound if you were asking me for the authorized dealers I considered at the top of my list.

is there any way to get the tv to tell me whether it's receiving 720p or 1080i? with my A/V inputs, it shows up right there on the screen, but with OTA stations on antenna A, all it tells me is the station and the type of audio (which seems to be somehow color-coded for some reason).

is there some secret place to find out resolution, bitrates, etc?

(and i know that somebody will probably tell me "it's on page xxx of your manual. right under the question "how do i know what resolution i'm watching?" well, i haven't seen it and i'm willing to feel foolish if i can find out. :o )

I recently purchased an inexpensive HDMI cable from an online vendor to replace my component cable and I noticed a slight improvement in picture quality. This cable was very cheap compared to Monster or AudioQuest cables with 1, 2 or 6% silver. Would the picture quality improvement be worth the heavy price tag on such cables?

Would the picture quality improvement be worth the heavy price tag on such cables?
NO

No you cannot. Here are some break-in settings for you....

Main Menu
AV Selection: User
Contrast: 25
Brightness: +1
Color: -12
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -3

Pro Adjust
Pure Cinema: ADV

Color Detail
Color Temp: Warm

CTI: Off

NR
DNR: Low
MPEG NR: Low
I just purchase a PRO-930HD, it should be arriving next week.

Can you please clarify what are your suggested settings for the break-in period and when to change to the longer term settings? or if you can refer me to a past posting where I can learn about the initial do's and don'ts? This will be my first experience with a plasma HDTV. It will be connected to a cablebox model Explorer 8300 PVR HD. For the moment, currently have a proscan dvd player, I am planning to upgrade in August.

Any suggestions is much appreciated.

I just purchase a PRO-930HD, it should be arriving next week.

Can you please clarify what are your suggested settings for the break-in period and when to change to the longer term settings? or if you can refer me to a past posting where I can learn about the initial do's and don'ts? This will be my first experience with a plasma HDTV. It will be connected to a cablebox model Explorer 8300 PVR HD. For the moment, currently have a proscan dvd player, I am planning to upgrade in August.

Any suggestions is much appreciated.

SA8300 Break-in:

Main Menu:
AV Selection: Pure
Contrast: 25
Brightness: 0
Color: +1
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -2

Pro Adjust
Pure Cinema: Off or ADV (Your chioce)

Color Detail:
Color Temp: Manual
R High: -4
G High: -5
B High: -2
R Low: -4
G Low: -5
B Low: -6
CTI: Off

Color Management:
R: -1
Y: -5
G: -7
C: +6
B: -2
M: -1

NR:
DNR: Off
MPEG NR: Low

DRE:
DRE: High
Black Level: On
ACL: Off
Gamma: 2
Others:
I-P Mode: 1

make sure you turn your power save mode to save2


After Break-in:

Main Menu:
AV Selection: Pure
Contrast: 32
Brightness: 0
Color: +1
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -2

Pro Adjust
Pure Cinema: ADV

Color Detail:
Color Temp: Manual
R High: -4
G High: -5
B High: -2
R Low: -4
G Low: -5
B Low: -6
CTI: Off

Color Management:
R: -1
Y: -5
G: -7
C: +6
B: -2
M: -1

NR:
DNR: Off
MPEG NR: Low

DRE:
DRE: High
Black Level: On
ACL: Off
Gamma: 2
Others:
I-P Mode: 1

I'm excited about it - but the more I read here, the more nervous I'm getting about what I'll need to do. "Break-In", Settings, Set-Up Disks, Pro Set-Up option, Surge Protection, et al.

I've asked, in another thread, but have gotten no responses. Could someone please post what it is that I need to do - 'cause I'm a complete Plasma neophyte.

Thank you very much.....bill

D-Nice (et al)

First off, I wanted to thank you for continuing to provide invaluable information to n00bs like me. My 1130 won't be arriving for a few more weeks (I hope) but I have some questions about the break-in settings for the 1130 that you've been posting.

I'm one of those rare souls who doesn't subscribe to cable or SAT and only use an antenna for OTA transmissions. Are the settings that you've posted for specific inputs types? Can the settings for, say, the SA8300 be used with OTA?

It's quite possible that the answers to my questions will be self-explanatory once I actually have the 1130 in my hands, so I apologize if the questions show a basic misunderstanding on my part.

TIA!
Mike

I'm excited about it - but the more I read here, the more nervous I'm getting about what I'll need to do. "Break-In", Settings, Set-Up Disks, Pro Set-Up option, Surge Protection, et al.

I've asked, in another thread, but have gotten no responses. Could someone please post what it is that I need to do - 'cause I'm a complete Plasma neophyte.

Thank you very much.....bill

Break In: Minimize 4:3 viewing during the first 100-200 hours. Keep the contrast below 30. Keep brightness below +2. Do not use Dynamic mode...EVER!!!! Keep the power save mode @ save2.

Settings: Try some of the settings posted in this thread.

Set-up disks: Purchase DVE or Avia to calibrate your DVD player.

Pro Set-up options: Up to you.

Surge Protection: Also up to you but do get something

D-Nice (et al)

First off, I wanted to thank you for continuing to provide invaluable information to n00bs like me. My 1130 won't be arriving for a few more weeks (I hope) but I have some questions about the break-in settings for the 1130 that you've been posting.

I'm one of those rare souls who doesn't subscribe to cable or SAT and only use an antenna for OTA transmissions. Are the settings that you've posted for specific inputs types? Can the settings for, say, the SA8300 be used with OTA?

It's quite possible that the answers to my questions will be self-explanatory once I actually have the 1130 in my hands, so I apologize if the questions show a basic misunderstanding on my part.

TIA!
Mike

You can try them for OTA but they are specific to the devices I've listed per post.

SA8300 Break-in:

Main Menu:
AV Selection: Pure
Contrast: 25
Brightness: 0
Color: +1
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -2

Pro Adjust
Pure Cinema: Off or ADV (Your chioce)

Color Detail:
Color Temp: Manual
R High: -4
G High: -5
B High: -2
R Low: -4
G Low: -5
B Low: -6
CTI: Off

Color Management:
R: -1
Y: -5
G: -7
C: +6
B: -2
M: -1

NR:
DNR: Off
MPEG NR: Low

DRE:
DRE: High
Black Level: On
ACL: Off
Gamma: 2
Others:
I-P Mode: 1

make sure you turn your power save mode to save2


After Break-in:

Main Menu:
AV Selection: Pure
Contrast: 32
Brightness: 0
Color: +1
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -2

Pro Adjust
Pure Cinema: ADV

Color Detail:
Color Temp: Manual
R High: -4
G High: -5
B High: -2
R Low: -4
G Low: -5
B Low: -6
CTI: Off

Color Management:
R: -1
Y: -5
G: -7
C: +6
B: -2
M: -1

NR:
DNR: Off
MPEG NR: Low

DRE:
DRE: High
Black Level: On
ACL: Off
Gamma: 2
Others:
I-P Mode: 1
D-Nice: Thank you very much for your quick response!

I noticed that the only difference for before and after break-in seems to be the contrast setting?

How long should the break-in period be?

Do I always leave in power save mode 2 before and after break-in?

I have a Pure AV power console (belkin model AP20800), should I pass the cable wire thru this unit or connect directly to SA8300?

I plan to connect the cable box to the media center via HDMI-HDMI cable (model Tuributaries direct series DCD-H) and my pansonic dvd player via component cables (Monster cable video3 series). Is their a better way?

Lastly, do you think I need to get the DVE or AVIA dvd? If yes, can you suggest which would be more suitable for my application?

Thanks in advance for your support,

Ermie

Thanks for the "very" quick reply. I don't quite know what the setting values represent but am sure I'll find out when the unit arrives and I start getting into it. I do have a follow-up question, ref your reply:

Set-up Disks - Are you recommending one over the other (DVE/Avia)? I've seen the two of them "bundled together" on Amazon - Are both needed? Thanks again.....bill

D-Nice: Thank you very much for your quick response!

I noticed that the only difference for before and after break-in seems to be the contrast setting?

Correct


How long should the break-in period be?

100-200 hours


Do I always leave in power save mode 2 before and after break-in?

Definately for break-in....no afterwards


I have a Pure AV power console (belkin model AP20800), should I pass the cable wire thru this unit or connect directly to SA8300?

Connect it to the power console as it will protect your cable line from a power surge



I plan to connect the cable box to the media center via HDMI-HDMI cable (model Tuributaries direct series DCD-H) and my pansonic dvd player via component cables (Monster cable video3 series). Is their a better way?

Sounds good to me


Lastly, do you think I need to get the DVE or AVIA dvd? If yes, can you suggest which would be more suitable for my application?

I use DVE...others Avia. DVE has better grayscale test patterns while Avia has better color test patterns..

Set-up Disks - Are you recommending one over the other (DVE/Avia)? I've seen the two of them "bundled together" on Amazon - Are both needed? Thanks again.....bill

You don't need both. I use DVE....others use Avia. DVE has better grayscale patterns....Avia has better color patterns.

My 1130 is arriving soon and I really appreciate the great info re settings (D-Nice) on this thread.

I'd appreciate any suggestions re which cables I should buy in preparation for the delivery of my 1130. I have a 8300 cable box and an older Panasonic DVD player (no HDMI).

Thanks in advance

My 1130 is arriving soon and I really appreciate the great info re settings (D-Nice) on this thread.

I'd appreciate any suggestions re which cables I should buy in preparation for the delivery of my 1130. I have a 8300 cable box and an older Panasonic DVD player (no HDMI).

Thanks in advance

How about 1 HDMI and 1 component?

Wow--that didn't take long D-Nice. Thanks. I already have component cables, so I guess I just need a HDMI cable----seems like Monoprice is the way to go.

Does anyone have break in settings and after break in settings for the 1130hd matched with the directv H20?

do we need an upscaling dvd player for the 5060 or 4360 sets?

Not to be a second post pest- but what is the "glare issue" a few folks talk about. Do plasma sets have "extra" glare during daylight, etc over other types of tv's?

Is Pioneer noted to have "glare issues".

Thanks-

Not to be a second post pest- but what is the "glare issue" a few folks talk about. Do plasma sets have "extra" glare during daylight, etc over other types of tv's?

Is Pioneer noted to have "glare issues".

Thanks-

I went from a 50" RPTV to a 5060 and yes there is a noticeable glare with the plasma. I did anticipate this, but actually my room lighting configuration can be altered and it is not an issue. I think a lot has to do with the lighting in the room. The 5060 is awesome--glare is not something I would worry too much about unless you have lots of bright natural light and no way to control it.

Jeff

You don't need both. I use DVE....others use Avia. DVE has better grayscale patterns....Avia has better color patterns.


Do I understand correctly, I should calibrate during the break in period?

Thanks,

Jeff

Followed your suggestion and went to BB - got a high-blown surge protector. They advertise but don't carry in their stores either one of the two "set-up" programs - so - will order on-line (haven't decided which yet).

Just one further question (for now): Would you please be so kind as to clearify the 5060 break-in settings. Once again, thank you very much.....bill

I thank anyone and everyone for their advice on this thread. It is very helpful.

Just got the 5060 running a few weeks ago with HD cable box (explorer 8300?) Everything has looked wonderful and amazing coming from standard TV until now.

Problem is: lower half of the diplay shows horizontal lines which seem to be a partial repeat of the upper half of the screen- very annoying and ruins the enjoyment.

Problem occurs: 1. ice hockey, speed skating (winter olympics) 2. panoramic beach scenes with sand and moving waves.

I've tried altering settings, but can't resove the problem.

display is connected via high quality component cable.

Any insights?

Do I understand correctly, I should calibrate during the break in period?

Thanks,

Jeff

No afterwards

I thank anyone and everyone for their advice on this thread. It is very helpful.

Just got the 5060 running a few weeks ago with HD cable box (explorer 8300?) Everything has looked wonderful and amazing coming from standard TV until now.

Problem is: lower half of the diplay shows horizontal lines which seem to be a partial repeat of the upper half of the screen- very annoying and ruins the enjoyment.

Problem occurs: 1. ice hockey, speed skating (winter olympics) 2. panoramic beach scenes with sand and moving waves.

I've tried altering settings, but can't resove the problem.

display is connected via high quality component cable.

Any insights?

Sounds like your plasma may be defective. Can you return it for a replacement?

I currently have an Elite 530 Rear screen HDTV from Pioneer and am planning on upgrading to either a 5060 or an 1130...

Now for my question. On my 530 when feeding a 1080i signal ( from my DirecTV HD-Tivo) the 530 locks out the Pioneers ability to adjust the strech modes. Does the same thing happen on the plasmas?

Also - Anyone else that may have gone from the older Elite Rear Screens to one of these plasmas care to share their impressions?

Thanks

I just got a 4360 and i love the picture. i do have one problem, though. there seems to be loud buzz coming from the screen when the volume is above 28. Does anyone else have this? i checked the stock speaker connections and they all seem solid. really disappointed about the buzz and i'm hoping its a simple answer/fix.

I just got a 4360 and i love the picture. i do have one problem, though. there seems to be loud buzz coming from the screen when the volume is above 28. Does anyone else have this? i checked the stock speaker connections and they all seem solid. really disappointed about the buzz and i'm hoping its a simple answer/fix.


Disconnect the speakers from the panel. If you still can hear the buzz it's your panel and needs to be replaced....if not it's the speakers. If it is the speakers, make sure you check ALL connections.

thanks! i'll try that and see if its the speakers or the panel.

I've had my 5060 for a few weeks. When I watch satellite there is blurring, or slight blocking, on both vertical edges of the picture. I would say that the blurring is about a 3/4 inch column on both sides. This doesn't seem to be an issue when watching HD over satellite nor does it seem to be an issue when I watch DVD. My satellite signal comes through a Dish 942 hooked into my media receiver using HDMI.

Does anybody else have this problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Regards,
Dennis

Dennis, Are you using one of the stretch modes for SD.

Hi guys....tried looking through most of the posts on here....phew! Still cant find the definative answer to settings on my 436FDE (4360). Some posts say color temp LOW is closest to 65k and others say WARM. If anyone has used a DVE/AVIA disc to set up there 4360/436FDE/XDE I would be VERRRRY grateful for a full list of settings. Thanks in advance for any help.

i disconnected the speakers and the panel did not buzz, but the buzzing returned once the speakers were connected. could it be the speaker amplifier within the plasma?

Disconnect the speakers from the panel. If you still can hear the buzz it's your panel and needs to be replaced....if not it's the speakers. If it is the speakers, make sure you check ALL connections.

Hi guys....tried looking through most of the posts on here....phew! Still cant find the definative answer to settings on my 436FDE (4360). Some posts say color temp LOW is closest to 65k and others say WARM. If anyone has used a DVE/AVIA disc to set up there 4360/436FDE/XDE I would be VERRRRY grateful for a full list of settings. Thanks in advance for any help.

Settings vary per equipment. If someone gave you DVE/Avia settings from their dvd player, I can pretty much guarantee they will not be correct for your dvd player unless you have the same model.

I highly recommend you purchase one of those dvds and do the calibration yourself.

i disconnected the speakers and the panel did not buzz, but the buzzing returned once the speakers were connected. could it be the speaker amplifier within the plasma?

You need to troubleshoot all of your audio cables.

hi - i'm getting ready for delivery of a 4360 tomorrow and have a quick question. what diameter hole do I need to cut in the wall to comfortably feed the pio cables through? i'm using a hole saw (attached to a drill) and don't want to make one too small. Thanks.

i want to get into the SM, but i was warned not to do so if i don't know what i'm doing. all i want to do is check the hours. safe to do so?

hi - i'm getting ready for delivery of a 4360 tomorrow and have a quick question. what diameter hole do I need to cut in the wall to comfortably feed the pio cables through? i'm using a hole saw (attached to a drill) and don't want to make one too small. Thanks.

I need to know the same info since my 1130 should be arriving later today... Also, what type of OTA antenna is best for getting the HD content? Should I just visit the local Radio Crack?

-D.

I need to know the same info since my 1130 should be arriving later today... Also, what type of OTA antenna is best for getting the HD content? Should I just visit the local Radio Crack?

-D.

The hole needs to be wide enough to snake through the DVI size connector. The antennas are trial and error. A lot of people have had success with the Silver Sensor for indoors although I had much better luck with a a double bowtie antenna like the Channel master 4224(big and ugly, needs to be put in a closet or outdoors)

D,
jstorerj ,

I used a 1 1/2" drill bit. It is a pretty large conection.

I need to know the same info since my 1130 should be arriving later today... Also, what type of OTA antenna is best for getting the HD content? Should I just visit the local Radio Crack?

-D.


I used this site to choose an antenna:

antennaweb

Add org to the above address and standard prefix.
Can't post full address since I don't have 5 posts yet.

thanks!

When delivered, I'll have the 1130, Pio 74 amp, and Pio 79 DVD player. Does HDMI from the DVD player to the plasma, then firewire from the DVD player to the amp sound like the best way to get optimal PQ and audio? I'm still kinda new at this, and I have read every post here and in other threads for the DVD player and amp, and this seems like the way to go, but I just wanted to get confirmation here before I buy cables and prewire.

Thanks so much to all for your good answers and patience!

I received my Pro-930 on 02/10. Have two issues -

1. I notice one horizontal line roughly 1/4 screen width, when powered and the screen is blank and disappears When I watch programme. Is it due to any disturbance in signal or due to disturbance in power supply ? I am yet to install any type power conditioners. I am using CABLECARD.

2. Also is there any specific break-in period settings for using with CABLECARD.

Thanks in Advance.

When delivered, I'll have the 1130, Pio 74 amp, and Pio 79 DVD player. Does HDMI from the DVD player to the plasma, then firewire from the DVD player to the amp sound like the best way to get optimal PQ and audio? I'm still kinda new at this, and I have read every post here and in other threads for the DVD player and amp, and this seems like the way to go, but I just wanted to get confirmation here before I buy cables and prewire.

Thanks so much to all for your good answers and patience!

There may be a couple of settings in the 79avi to ensure audio is sent via the firewire and not the hdmi, but yes, this is the optimal setup with your configuration, which will be the same as mine. (I am searching for a 79avi & 74txvi vendor right now, my 1130 dealer isnt working with me, even though I've spent quite a bit of money there)

...also....is the serial number for the TV on the panel or the MR? i need to register for my warranty. anyone comment on the SM question i posted?

Ok, I drank the Kool-Aid.. But I've got one last question. I'm a current Panny owner (5UY) for a few years now and am ready to jump ship for a 5060HD. I went over to the local best buy and noticed 2 of their 3 pioneer plasmas had stuck pixels. The worst was in the magnolia section on a 1410HD, a big red one about 1/3 from the top and 1/3 from the right.

Do Pioneers have any worse incidence of this than other plasmas? I don't mind a dead pixel so much, but a stuck one would be a real bummer.

There may be a couple of settings in the 79avi to ensure audio is sent via the firewire and not the hdmi, but yes, this is the optimal setup with your configuration, which will be the same as mine. (I am searching for a 79avi & 74txvi vendor right now, my 1130 dealer isnt working with me, even though I've spent quite a bit of money there)


Thank you very much - I really appreciate it. My B&M is having a hard time getting the 79 and 1130, but I think they can get the 74 readily. If you are interested, shoot me a PM - we've had really good luck with them over the years.

Ok, I drank the Kool-Aid.. But I've got one last question. I'm a current Panny owner (5UY) for a few years now and am ready to jump ship for a 5060HD. I went over to the local best buy and noticed 2 of their 3 pioneer plasmas had stuck pixels. The worst was in the magnolia section on a 1410HD, a big red one about 1/3 from the top and 1/3 from the right.

Do Pioneers have any worse incidence of this than other plasmas? I don't mind a dead pixel so much, but a stuck one would be a real bummer.

There were two at my local BB when I bough mine. Luckily, no dead or stick pixels on mine so I was happy. I think they just put them on display and sell them as open box. I believe BB has a 30 day return policy with no restocking fee on TV's.

SN is on back of panel

I have two pixels that are stuck green on my 5060 that is one month old. Fortunately, I cannot pick them out from my viewing position at 9' away.

Dennis, Are you using one of the stretch modes for SD.

It happens on both stretch mode and full mode. The blurring is slight, and I don't think anybody else who watches it at my house notices, but it is very annoying to me.

...also....is the serial number for the TV on the panel or the MR? i need to register for my warranty. anyone comment on the SM question i posted?

I thought u dun have to register to get ur warranty.

I thought u dun have to register to get ur warranty.

As long as you have your original sales receipt when service is required, there wont be a problem. Registering is not required as far as I know. But pioneer will notify you of any updates, recalls, etc if you do register. I dont see any harm in registering, but I dont think its required.

No you cannot. Here are some break-in settings for you....

Main Menu
AV Selection: User
Contrast: 25
Brightness: +1
Color: -12
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -3

Pro Adjust
Pure Cinema: ADV

Color Detail
Color Temp: Low

CTI: Off

NR
DNR: Low
MPEG NR: Low

Can you give a more layman's description of the NR and CTI settings any how to knw where to set them?

Novice at this --need some assistance. Just got the Avia disk (great price by the way). Thanks to Malicious, and others here, my cable box (Moto 6412 VIII) is beautifully calibrated to the 930, but I wanted to improve my DVD PQ and set it a little differently.

Can someone translate the Pioneer Controls of HIgh and Low color and manual color management to the Avia Tests--Which controls do I use with which patterns and in what order? What do the High and Low color controls do? Thanks

My DTV receiver/recorder suggests the best quality connection possible (in my case) from receiver to tv would be S Video cable & Digital Optical (or A/V Audio) cable.

2nd best would be S Video with the 2 Audio (red & white) connections of a composite cable.

Question is: does my (shortly to arrive - after noon today) 5060 have a Digital Optical input? Thank you (again).....bill

DNice

Color Detai
color temp - Low

why low? I thought warm was closer to 6500

Doug

DNice



why low? I thought warm was closer to 6500

Doug

Low = warm...Pioneer does not have a "warm" setting. It was a typo.

Can you give a more layman's description of the NR and CTI settings any how to knw where to set them?

Well, I found this description of CTI on the web:

"When two color objects meet onscreen the usual result is a dithered pattern and muddy color. Pioneer's Digital Color Transient Improvement (CTI) is used to keep colors true and maintain resolution."

Personally, I keep it off. When I turn it on, I notice an increase in brightness, and that's about it. Hmm, maybe I'll send Pioneer an email asking for a good test of what CTI does...

As for the noise reduction settings, the DNR is supposed to eliminate "video noise" (according to the Pioneer website, anyway). I personally have a hard time seeing what this one does, so I leave it off. Maybe it works better on SD broadcasts, or something (I only watch DVDs).

It's pretty easy to see the MPEG noise reduction working, though. Just pause a DVD and turn the MPEG noise reduction to HIGH--almost all graininess disappears. Unfortunately, so does almost all of the fine detail. Personally, grain doesn't bother me, so I usually leave this one off, too.

Novice at this --need some assistance. Just got the Avia disk (great price by the way). Thanks to Malicious, and others here, my cable box (Moto 6412 VIII) is beautifully calibrated to the 930, but I wanted to improve my DVD PQ and set it a little differently.

Can someone translate the Pioneer Controls of HIgh and Low color and manual color management to the Avia Tests--Which controls do I use with which patterns and in what order? What do the High and Low color controls do? Thanks

Check around page 60 of your owners manual for descriptions of the color temp high/low.

What dvd player are you using? Maybe someone else here has the same model?

Can you give a more layman's description of the NR and CTI settings any how to knw where to set them?

From my understanding, CTI is most noticeable when there is lots of scaling or analog -> digital conversion going on. CTI is, as stated by others, color transient improvement. Suppose you have a red line next to a white line in video that was recorded in SD resolutions. If you display that on a high res display such as the pioneer plasmas, the scaling done introduces stair-stepping, etc. The CTI feature is able to determine when this is most likely and smooth out the transitions between the colors to reduce color artifacts that arent there in the original content, but are introduced by scaling the content for display.

It does not mean there is a problem in the scaler. All scalers have to deal with this. Pioneer goes that extra step further to reduce the impact of the scaling.


DNR is digital noise reduction. If you have a weak signal, or noisy broadcast, DNR can remove some of this at the cost of some fine detail. If you have an ideal input signal, turning this on wont help at all. MPEG noise reduction is most noticeable because mpeg artifacting is so common due to compression techniques and authoring issues in the content itself, independent of the actual signal strength.

So mpeg NR has to do with the content itself, DNR has to do with the transmission of that content. Thats the simplest explanation and bottom line.

As far as setting them... its up to you. whatever looks the best, right? Just try to keep each as low as possible so you are not sacrificing detail for no benefit.

Anyone have the 4361 from Best Buy? I'm curious about the dimensions and type of the wall mount it comes with. Couldn't find any specs anywhere and I'd like one relatively low profile. Thanks.

Display - Without Speakers 42-3/8 x 24-29/32 x 3-5/8 inches (WxHxD)
Display - Without Speakers 1076 x 632 x 92 mm (WxHxD)
Display w/ Speakers - Flush Mount 48-7/16 x 24-29/32 x 3-5/8 inches (WxHxD)
Display w/ Speakers - Flush Mount 1231 x 632 x 92 mm (WxHxD)
Display w/ Speakers - Air Mount 49-9/16 x 24-29/32 x 3-5/8 inches (WxHxD)
Display w/ Speakers - Air Mount 1259 x 632 x 92 mm (WxHxD)
Display - Weight 56.9 lbs.
Media Receiver - Dimensions 16-9/16 x 3-9/16 x 11-13/16 inches (WxHxD)
Media Receiver - Weight 9.9 lbs.
Carton Dimensions 55.56 x 39.25 x 19.94 inches (WxHxD)
Carton - Weight 152 lbs.

When navigating the menu on my Bell Expressvu/Dish Network HDTV receiver with my 4360, the small white area that highlights the channels kind of breaks up or has horizontal lines through it as it scrolls up or down quickly. It doesn't seem to do it however when it is set at 720P instead of 1080i. I don't see it much at all in actual programming or on DVD material. Is this maybe a artifact or problem introduced from the satellite receiver? I just have a cheap HDMI to DVI cable(could this be the problem)? This isn't anything to worry about really just wondering if anyone else has seen this sort of thing. The previous 4360 I had with a stuck pixel that I returned also did this so I don't think the TV is defective or anything. Thanks

hi - i'm getting ready for delivery of a 4360 tomorrow and have a quick question. what diameter hole do I need to cut in the wall to comfortably feed the pio cables through? i'm using a hole saw (attached to a drill) and don't want to make one too small. Thanks.

fwiw... i ended up using a 2 1/8" hole saw and the cables fed through just fine. much smaller would have been too tight.

I am about to buy a PRO930 any day now, kinda waiting for my Sanus Flat mount to arrive so I can do it all at once. I have a question I am hoping the experts can shed some light on.

I have done exhaustive research on this thing and learned alot. But I was curious to know if anyone out there has actually had someone come and tune the ISF settings on a PRO panel? I got a price of about $250 from a very reputable place. They recommended breaking-in then calling for the tune.

Do you guys recommend this? Has anyone done it?

Hi,

Any one owns both 506 and 79AVi? can you please share your setting on both the plasma and DVD. I had follow this thread and the 79AVi thread, but the question of which side to optimized first keep on popping up.

Just received my 79AVi(989) this week, had not play with it much, currently setup as follow:

1) 480i over HDMI to 506HD(5060)
2) Component (12bit) for HDMI
3) Direct

My 506HD is set to the following for HDMI input:

1) Picture setting - Standard
2) Global Power save to SAV2

I'm new to plasma and HDMI DVDs, thanks for any assistance.

James

When I attempt to enter Tuner Setup the screen says "Current settings do not allow selection and adjustment."I'm trying to set the clock.I read the manual and didn't see anything that deals with this problem.Why does it say that and how do I remedy the situation?

Display - Without Speakers 42-3/8 x 24-29/32 x 3-5/8 inches (WxHxD)
Display - Without Speakers 1076 x 632 x 92 mm (WxHxD)
Display w/ Speakers - Flush Mount 48-7/16 x 24-29/32 x 3-5/8 inches (WxHxD)
Display w/ Speakers - Flush Mount 1231 x 632 x 92 mm (WxHxD)
Display w/ Speakers - Air Mount 49-9/16 x 24-29/32 x 3-5/8 inches (WxHxD)
Display w/ Speakers - Air Mount 1259 x 632 x 92 mm (WxHxD)
Display - Weight 56.9 lbs.
Media Receiver - Dimensions 16-9/16 x 3-9/16 x 11-13/16 inches (WxHxD)
Media Receiver - Weight 9.9 lbs.
Carton Dimensions 55.56 x 39.25 x 19.94 inches (WxHxD)
Carton - Weight 152 lbs.

Sorry I was kinda vague, I meant the dimensions of the wall bracket included with the 4361. Unless the "included wall bracket" is just something to attach to a mount...

Good news: The plasma got to my home as scheduled yesterday afternoon.
Bad news: The delivery guy was alone and his truck didn't have a hydraulic tail-gate - so, guess who was his "helper"? Yep, me, the guy who's already had 2 hernia operations!

Anyway, I had the unit up and running in a couple of hours (minus component attachment). I managed, 1st off, to re-set the unit to the recommended "break-in" values (by the way, the unit arrived set in the "Dynamic" mode).

I'll work on component attachment today.

Now my question: Seems like all networks have their Logos emblazened in one of the corners of the viewing areas. After reading about "burn-in" problems, is this something I should worry about? If they are a problem, how does one "get around" it? Any other viewing cautions or suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.....bill

It sounds like Bill and I had very similar days yesterday... mine arrived at around 12:30pm, one driver, no hydraulic lift (but zero hernias), had it running in a couple of hours, set the set to the recommended burn in settings, and wondered about that NBC logo in the top right corner last night...

I have it temporarily on the included stand and will work on getting it up on the wall mount (sanus vmdd26) in the next couple of days.

So far so good... Jim

Good news: The plasma got to my home as scheduled yesterday afternoon.
Bad news: The delivery guy was alone and his truck didn't have a hydraulic tail-gate - so, guess who was his "helper"? Yep, me, the guy who's already had 2 hernia operations!

Anyway, I had the unit up and running in a couple of hours (minus component attachment). I managed, 1st off, to re-set the unit to the recommended "break-in" values (by the way, the unit arrived set in the "Dynamic" mode).

I'll work on component attachment today.

Now my question: Seems like all networks have their Logos emblazened in one of the corners of the viewing areas. After reading about "burn-in" problems, is this something I should worry about? If they are a problem, how does one "get around" it? Any other viewing cautions or suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.....bill

What are the break in values for the 5060HD, my dad got his last week, and he doesn't know much about configuring, so I need to go down there this weekend to do it, any help is greatly apprecaited.

Originally Posted by D-Nice

Main Menu
AV Selection: User
Contrast: 25
Brightness: +1
Color: -12
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -3

Pro Adjust
Pure Cinema: ADV

Color Detail
Color Temp: Warm

CTI: Off

NR
DNR: Low
MPEG NR: Low

Power Save = 2

When I attempt to enter Tuner Setup the screen says "Current settings do not allow selection and adjustment."I'm trying to set the clock.I read the manual and didn't see anything that deals with this problem.Why does it say that and how do I remedy the situation?

The TV Guide system will set the clock.

I know the calibration thing has been covered to death, but i was wondering if anyone that has passed the break in period has a starting point that i can go off? i know that you can't calibrate for HDTV or SDTV without a HD signal generator. I will get a Cal. done eventually, but i want to see what i can do on my own right now until i can afford one.

Also, AVIA and DVE are pretty much only good for setting up your DVD player right? signal from a DVD is different than TV. I have a 4360 and roughly 175hrs. btw.

Ok... got my 5060HD. All I can seem to do is say wow a whole lot and stare at the wall it is hanging on...lol.

Anyway, my question. I put in the "break-in" settings noted in this thread, but I was wondering, I also have the avia calibration disc (had it from my last tv), and am wondering, should I run it as well? Or is it one to run after the break in?

Thanks

OH, and one more thing. Kudos to Ryan at Satellite and Sound for getting me this tv at a great price, and getting it to me quickly. Heck it was processed and awaiting pickup before the day was even out, and the delivery could of been two days sooner than I could accept delivery at my new place. I even got a 30' system cable (the included 10' one was too short for what I need) ordered two days later and Ryan had it shipped UPS to get there in time for my tv's arrival so I wouldn't have to mess with moving my stuff around more than I had to.

I also went ahead and got a two year extended warranty... as I am a bit paranoid about expensive elctronics breaking down... even though I am positive my Pio will not... :D :D

What are the break in values for the 5060HD, my dad got his last week, and he doesn't know much about configuring, so I need to go down there this weekend to do it, any help is greatly apprecaited.

I used these:

Main Menu
AV Selection: User
Contrast: 25
Brightness: +1
Color: -12
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -3

Pro Adjust
Pure Cinema: ADV

Color Detail
Color Temp: Warm

CTI: Off

NR
DNR: Low
MPEG NR: Low

Power Save: 2

.....bill

I am about to buy a PRO930 any day now, kinda waiting for my Sanus Flat mount to arrive so I can do it all at once. I have a question I am hoping the experts can shed some light on.

I have done exhaustive research on this thing and learned alot. But I was curious to know if anyone out there has actually had someone come and tune the ISF settings on a PRO panel? I got a price of about $250 from a very reputable place. They recommended breaking-in then calling for the tune.

Do you guys recommend this? Has anyone done it?

Few weeks ago I was at Magnolia (separate store, btw) and was talking to a nice sales guy for about an hour (on various A/V things). My original purpose there was for the 1130. He has done the ISF calibration for customers, and, told me most people end up asking them to re-set the settings - and we both laughed about that. He further went on to say (as most may already know) that the room colors and settings does have an affect on the colors that may not always lend a "great" picture even with the ISF Calibration. He wasn't against it, just thought it's not for everyone as I did ask him for his opinion. This probably doesn't help you, but just thought I'd share his comments.

...now...when's that Magnolia gonna get that #^%$@!! 1130...sigh...

I am about to buy a PRO930 any day now, kinda waiting for my Sanus Flat mount to arrive so I can do it all at once. I have a question I am hoping the experts can shed some light on.

I have done exhaustive research on this thing and learned alot. But I was curious to know if anyone out there has actually had someone come and tune the ISF settings on a PRO panel? I got a price of about $250 from a very reputable place. They recommended breaking-in then calling for the tune.

Do you guys recommend this? Has anyone done it?

JC... there is no substitute for a properly callibrated plasma. If you can do it yourself, great... if you can't I would definitely recomend spending the $250 (which, by the way, is a great price... it's usually closer to $400).

When I got my 930, I started with settings found here (mostly Dnice's... which are really good), and then tweaked them using my own eyes and hdnet test patterns.

I ended up having my monitor professionally callibrated because I happen to know an ISF guy.... and i'm really happy with the results.

Whichever way you go, the PQ will be far superior to any out-of-the-box settings.

Good luck.

My 1130 is finally coming this week after a month of being back-order :D. I have debated about getting it calibrated but I thought I would live with it for a while before making that decision. The one thing nice about the 1130 is that it has custom day/night ISF settings that gets enable after a ISF calibration (assuming the ISF tech has the Pioneer software).

I have yet to see settings posted on this forum based on calibrating with a colorimeter to set the display to an accurate 6500K color temperature and CIE color chart. They all seem to be based on that poster's visual preference, which may yield a more pleasing picture, but is not necessarily accurate. I thought it would be nice to have the display set to a "calibrated" starting point and then tune it to my own preferences from there.

Still waiting to see if anyone can answer the question I've posted before:

A new plasma, will the network Logos cause any burn-in issues on my viewing screen?

Good news: The plasma got to my home as scheduled yesterday afternoon.
Bad news: The delivery guy was alone and his truck didn't have a hydraulic tail-gate - so, guess who was his "helper"? Yep, me, the guy who's already had 2 hernia operations!

Anyway, I had the unit up and running in a couple of hours (minus component attachment). I managed, 1st off, to re-set the unit to the recommended "break-in" values (by the way, the unit arrived set in the "Dynamic" mode).

I'll work on component attachment today.

Now my question: Seems like all networks have their Logos emblazened in one of the corners of the viewing areas. After reading about "burn-in" problems, is this something I should worry about? If they are a problem, how does one "get around" it? Any other viewing cautions or suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.....bill

If you use the break-in settings I've posted and vary your viewing, you should have no problems with network logos.

I know the calibration thing has been covered to death, but i was wondering if anyone that has passed the break in period has a starting point that i can go off? i know that you can't calibrate for HDTV or SDTV without a HD signal generator. I will get a Cal. done eventually, but i want to see what i can do on my own right now until i can afford one.

Also, AVIA and DVE are pretty much only good for setting up your DVD player right? signal from a DVD is different than TV. I have a 4360 and roughly 175hrs. btw.

The only thing you need to do is bump up the contrast to your liking after break-in.

Still waiting to see if anyone can answer the question I've posted before:

A new plasma, will the network Logos cause any burn-in issues on my viewing screen?

during break-in keep your contrast at 25 or lower and you should be fine.

JC... there is no substitute for a properly callibrated plasma. If you can do it yourself, great... if you can't I would definitely recomend spending the $250 (which, by the way, is a great price... it's usually closer to $400).

When I got my 930, I started with settings found here (mostly Dnice's... which are really good), and then tweaked them using my own eyes and hdnet test patterns.

I ended up having my monitor professionally callibrated because I happen to know an ISF guy.... and i'm really happy with the results.

Whichever way you go, the PQ will be far superior to any out-of-the-box settings.

Good luck.

Can you post the settings you are currently using?

Still waiting to see if anyone can answer the question I've posted before:

A new plasma, will the network Logos cause any burn-in issues on my viewing screen?

Typically they will not, now if you had the same station on everyday, 24hrs a day set to torch mode I can see you having a problem.. I have never heard of a station logo causing serious burn in. I am starting to see more transparent logos being used also

My 1130 is finally coming this week after a month of being back-order :D. I have debated about getting it calibrated but I thought I would live with it for a while before making that decision. The one thing nice about the 1130 is that it has custom day/night ISF settings that gets enable after a ISF calibration (assuming the ISF tech has the Pioneer software).

I have yet to see settings posted on this forum based on calibrating with a colorimeter to set the display to an accurate 6500K color temperature and CIE color chart. They all seem to be based on that poster's visual preference, which may yield a more pleasing picture, but is not necessarily accurate. I thought it would be nice to have the display set to a "calibrated" starting point and then tune it to my own preferences from there.

IMO, there is no such thing as "accurate calibration" without using your source equipment. Sure you can calibrate a TV to a laptop that is generating signals, but you've only accomplished calibrating your set to that laptop. Your STB and Sat/Cable Co both have variances in the signal your plasma is receiving.....rendering your "ISF calibrated plasma" inaccurate.

I wish that there was a way to load the ISF calibration tools into your STB and then have it calibrated. That would at least take care of the STB variance....until you get a new STB :eek:

The TV Guide system will set the clock.
I cannot access the tuner setup from inputs 1-4.The previosly mentioned message will appear.The tuner setup is also used for closed caption.If you're correct than you can't set CC,unless you have the on Screen guide setup.That doesn't seem right though stranger things have been setup in electronic devices.

IMO, there is no such thing as "accurate calibration" without using your source equipment. Sure you can calibrate a TV to a laptop that is generating signals, but you've only accomplished calibrating your set to that laptop. Your STB and Sat/Cable Co both have variances in the signal your plasma is receiving.....rendering your "ISF calibrated plasma" inaccurate.

I wish that there was a way to load the ISF calibration tools into your STB and then have it calibrated. That would at least take care of the STB variance....until you get a new STB :eek:

The ISF response to this is that the only variation in cable boxes and sat boxes in passing along HD material is black level which can vary depending on the boxes voltage output.

The ISF response to this is that the only variation in cable boxes and sat boxes in passing along HD material is black level which can vary depending on the boxes voltage output.

I bet he would say that. How does he feel about DVD players?

Tell him to compare a Moto cable box to a SA. I guarantee that he will find differences beyond black level.

IMO, there is no such thing as "accurate calibration" without using your source equipment. Sure you can calibrate a TV to a laptop that is generating signals, but you've only accomplished calibrating your set to that laptop. Your STB and Sat/Cable Co both have variances in the signal your plasma is receiving.....rendering your "ISF calibrated plasma" inaccurate.

I wish that there was a way to load the ISF calibration tools into your STB and then have it calibrated. That would at least take care of the STB variance....until you get a new STB :eek:

I agree DNice, so the best you can do is attach a calibrated signal generator and/or use calibration DVD's. Calibration DVD's work exceptionally well for calibrating the entire path from an attached DVD or HTPC with DVD drive. For the signal coming from your TV signal provider I guess you hope that they have done something to calibrate from the source to the STB input. To calibrate the STB there are signal generators can output ATSC calibration signals (see http://www.sencore.com/products/vp403c.htm), but that doesn't help on STB's that use propretary signals (DirecTV, Dish) but at least you can get the display calibrated correctly at the Pioneer media box inputs and then use stations like HDNET or HBO HD, that broadcast video test patterns, to aid in making any final adjustments. Those are simple test patterns for setting contrast, brightness, color and tint, but maybe they could be expanded to include ISF designed test patterns. Ultimately if everything was calibrated to a known standard none of this would even be necessary, someday... :rolleyes:

I agree DNice, so the best you can do is attach a calibrated signal generator and/or use calibration DVD's. Calibration DVD's work exceptionally well for calibrating the entire path from an attached DVD or HTPC with DVD drive. For the signal coming from your TV signal provider I guess you hope that they have done something to calibrate from the source to the STB input. To calibrate the STB there are signal generators can output ATSC calibration signals (see http://www.sencore.com/products/vp403c.htm), but that doesn't help on STB's that use propretary signals (DirecTV, Dish) but at least you can get the display calibrated correctly at the Pioneer media box inputs and then use stations like HDNET or HBO HD, that broadcast video test patterns, to aid in making any final adjustments. Those are simple test patterns for setting contrast, brightness, color and tint, but maybe someday they could be expanded to include ISF designed test patterns. Ultimately if everything was calibrated to a know standard none of this would even be necessary, someday... :rolleyes:


Sooner or later TV manufacturers are going to include auto calibration software in the TVs....I wish it was here today.

Sooner or later TV manufacturers are going to include auto calibration software in the TVs....I wish it was here today.

I've heard that cable boxes that generate their own test patterns are in the works.

On a unrelated note (sort of), have you seen Hotel Rwanda on SHO HD? It's on right now and it looks incredible... great transfer... and OAR to boot.

For the replies to my "Logo Burn" question.....bill

I've heard that cable boxes that generate their own test patterns are in the works.

On a unrelated note (sort of), have you seen Hotel Rwanda on SHO HD? It's on right now and it looks incredible... great transfer... and OAR to boot.

Not home currently, but I will check the next showing on the west coast feed of ShowtimeHD.

Any settings you want me to test out?

Not home currently, but I will check the next showing on the west coast feed of ShowtimeHD.

Any settings you want me to test out?

I'm still using the same settings I sent you a week or two ago, with the color reduced by 1. I believe that was the only change.

Also, don't know if I mentioned it, but I've got the power setting on standard, so that will affect the settings... and everything is turned off except for black level.

I bet he would say that. How does he feel about DVD players?

Tell him to compare a Moto cable box to a SA. I guarantee that he will find differences beyond black level.

You said it. I have the Moto box and for a lark I tried your SA settings since I usually use Maicious' which are excellent for that box --The results were obvious-- washed out, no depth etc.

I cannot access the tuner setup from inputs 1-4.The previosly mentioned message will appear.The tuner setup is also used for closed caption.If you're correct than you can't set CC,unless you have the on Screen guide setup.That doesn't seem right though stranger things have been setup in electronic devices.

If you are using the inputs, the tuner is not in use, therefore cannot be adjusted. Pioneer displays cannot do closed caption on component or HDMI inputs, as pstrisik stated here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6383362&&#post6383362). If you have an external cable box on say input 1, then you must use the cable box's CC options.

If you need closed captioning for the pioneer tuner, hit the ANT button to switch to the tuner and then you can go into the tuner setup menu and turn on / adjust Closed Captioning. Now, if your asking if the tuner's CC can be turned on when the clock has not been set, I'm not sure. I cannot set the clock, as it says it has already been set by the guide. I can set CC though.

Thanks for the information.

You said it. I have the Moto box and for a lark I tried your SA settings since I usually use Maicious' which are excellent for that box --The results were obvious-- washed out, no depth etc.

Tried Malicious' settings - (just acquired a working Moto 6412 HDMI Rev 3 box), and I and a few friends note a distinct pink tinge to many of the HD programs we watched - to a greater or lesser extent. Admittedly, no green push, but I don't like the trade off :( .

Checked the settings twice just to make sure - wonder if HDMI cable would make a difference (Using standard issue Monster Cable)?

LIY

how long is the 'break in' period? 200 hours?

guys,

could you please comment about returning a 60" SXRD XBR for a Pro-1130:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=645323

what do you think? stupid move?

You're preaching to the choir by posting in this thread.... I don't think anyone here will disuade you from switching. Do it.

You're preaching to the choir by posting in this thread.... I don't think anyone here will disuade you from switching. Do it.


The more I think about it, the more I want to do it.....

now the debate is, go 50" now, or wait and get a 65" later (like the panasonic 65" 1080P due in may) :confused:

Tried Malicious' settings - (just acquired a working Moto 6412 HDMI Rev 3 box), and I and a few friends note a distinct pink tinge to many of the HD programs we watched - to a greater or lesser extent. Admittedly, no green push, but I don't like the trade off :( .

Checked the settings twice just to make sure - wonder if HDMI cable would make a difference (Using standard issue Monster Cable)?

LIY

All I can say is I cant see it in my room. True the lighting in my room makes my color temps come out slightly warmer, but I do most of my tv watching with no lighting at all or minimal if any, and havent noticed any pink.

I'm not saying its not there on your display, but for the life of me I cant see it on mine... What types of scenes was the pink most obvious in? Scene from recent CBS broadcast would be great, I have a few of their shows still in the moto. I am using HDMI, havent done really intensive testing via component as I liked the HDMI picture better straight away.

I would think snow would be the obvious test... I watch lots of hockey and recently the winter olympics, snow looks white to me. I will be the first to admit I prefer a warmer picture though.

You can try to compensate some by either turning down the high red a notch or two, or turning up the blue a notch or two, maybe a smaller combination of both. The low's shouldnt be a big deal if the pink is in bright scenes.

Well I finally put the 1130 on the wall, put everything together and implemented DNice's settings... looks great. I have an OTA antenna as well, but have not actually used it yet (I set it all up last night). I did watch a movie on a Toshiba dvd player - HDMI for video to MR, fiber optic to receiver for sound... sounded great - will sound better when I check the plug in the wall for teh sub.. I think I may have to repair the plug on the other side of the wall since it looks like the sub never turned on.. I am getting the Adelphia cable guy out today.. I had a digitial Motorola box before, and am either doing the Cable Card option, or the HD box with DVR.. it is not bad priced, but not sure I will really use DVR that much... I barely have time for tv lately and don't wan't to waste the service if I am not going to use it all... soooo... how many people actually use the dvr.. is it really "all that"? I don't really watch On Demand, and never watch PPV.... I use blockbusters online subscription predominantly, with HBO thrown in....

input...?

i just thought of another thing. after break in, is it still advisable or necessary to use the Save=2 option? i can see a big decrease in brightness and detail with it that low. basically, post-breakin i can bump up the levels on the options that i have turned down? dynamic looks ok, but it's very bright and washes a lot of color and detail out. i also don't think it's great to have the contrast at 40 as dynamic sets it.

it's funny with this thread, when it was started, everyone was asking what the correct break in settings were. now the wind has changed direction and the questions are post break in settings.

Component Cable Question:

i'll make this quick since it's been beat to death, but i have a set of el cheapo cables that were included with my D*TV receiver. i use them to connect my DVD player. i know that the high dollar cables are no better than the cheap ones, but i wanted to know if upgrading to a set by Monoprice would be worth while? They look like they're made much better and are very inexpensive too.

monoprice wasn't expensive to me at all... considering what it costs at a B&M. I have one on my 5060HD (a DVI to HDMI) and it works great, looks great, and the cable seems to be of good quality and build.

i just thought of another thing. after break in, is it still advisable or necessary to use the Save=2 option? i can see a big decrease in brightness and detail with it that low. basically, post-breakin i can bump up the levels on the options that i have turned down? dynamic looks ok, but it's very bright and washes a lot of color and detail out. i also don't think it's great to have the contrast at 40 as dynamic sets it.

it's funny with this thread, when it was started, everyone was asking what the correct break in settings were. now the wind has changed direction and the questions are post break in settings.


Post break-in I went back to the standard power setting and I very much prefer it... others like the Save-2 option better... it's really a matter of personal taste, but I wouldn't worry about image retention, burn-in or anything like that. Also... if you do a search of this thread there are tons of post break-in settings... none of which have the contrast up as high as 40.

Well I finally put the 1130 on the wall, put everything together and implemented DNice's settings... looks great. I have an OTA antenna as well, but have not actually used it yet (I set it all up last night). I did watch a movie on a Toshiba dvd player - HDMI for video to MR, fiber optic to receiver for sound... sounded great - will sound better when I check the plug in the wall for teh sub.. I think I may have to repair the plug on the other side of the wall since it looks like the sub never turned on.. I am getting the Adelphia cable guy out today.. I had a digitial Motorola box before, and am either doing the Cable Card option, or the HD box with DVR.. it is not bad priced, but not sure I will really use DVR that much... I barely have time for tv lately and don't wan't to waste the service if I am not going to use it all... soooo... how many people actually use the dvr.. is it really "all that"? I don't really watch On Demand, and never watch PPV.... I use blockbusters online subscription predominantly, with HBO thrown in....

input...?

DVR is one of those things that you just cant do without once you get used to it, especially dual tuner DVR. Being able to record shows on multiple channels simulaneously is awesome. I also hardly ever watch anything live (except sports) so I can FF through commercials. I know the networks hate people saying that, but its true.

I never watched a lot of shows I watch religiously now because they were lined up against other programming I couldnt miss. Also, being able to record in HD is a big plus.

I'm pro-DVR, in case you cant tell :)

DVR is one of those things that you just cant do without once you get used to it, especially dual tuner DVR. Being able to record shows on multiple channels simulaneously is awesome. I also hardly ever watch anything live (except sports) so I can FF through commercials. I know the networks hate people saying that, but its true.

I never watched a lot of shows I watch religiously now because they were lined up against other programming I couldnt miss. Also, being able to record in HD is a big plus.

I'm pro-DVR, in case you cant tell :)

What he said.... I'm pro DVR as well.

Does the 5060 have a QAM tuner? I don't see one mentioned in the specs.

monoprice wasn't expensive to me at all... considering what it costs at a B&M. I have one on my 5060HD (a DVI to HDMI) and it works great, looks great, and the cable seems to be of good quality and build.

yeah i have a monoprice HDMI cable and it's great. i was just wondering what the level of "junk cables" have to be to be considered "junk". like i said, this is a cheap, cheap, component cable that D*TV included with their box. it doesn't look like anything more than cheapo composite or A/V cables that comes with many a DVD players. i know that "expensive" doesn't equate to "better" in most cases, but would i benefit from some sort of upgrade? i have a Pio 588AS DVD player on order to replace my ancient sony. the better Video DAC in the Pio coupled with the Optical out should be an upgrade in itself.

I get the same thing on my 5060. I think it is in the broadcast and not the TV. Lines in lower part of screen during hokey.

I purchased my 5060 online and when I received it I didn't notice the receiver didn't have a vertical stand. After working with pioneer to get my cable card to work I noticed holes to mount a vertical stand. I asked the pioneer tech I was working with and he sent me a stand as a courtesy. I was wondering do the receivers normally come with stands?

All I can say is I cant see it in my room. True the lighting in my room makes my color temps come out slightly warmer, but I do most of my tv watching with no lighting at all or minimal if any, and havent noticed any pink.

I'm not saying its not there on your display, but for the life of me I cant see it on mine... What types of scenes was the pink most obvious in? Scene from recent CBS broadcast would be great, I have a few of their shows still in the moto. I am using HDMI, havent done really intensive testing via component as I liked the HDMI picture better straight away.

I would think snow would be the obvious test... I watch lots of hockey and recently the winter olympics, snow looks white to me. I will be the first to admit I prefer a warmer picture though.

You can try to compensate some by either turning down the high red a notch or two, or turning up the blue a notch or two, maybe a smaller combination of both. The low's shouldnt be a big deal if the pink is in bright scenes.

I notice this pink tint on virtually all hd content - but especially flesh tones on HBO, Cinemax and Showtime movies, and MPT and Discovery HD videos, when people are present. Switching from the settings I use (Contrast 36, Color +5, Color Temp: Mid Black: On) (with most other settings either off or minimal) there is a noticeable red push and a darkening of the picture.

I just tried some other settings forwarded to me by lhamp - which were ISF calibrated - and I found the picture to be washed out and not very engaging. So, perhaps its me! ;)

In any case, I very much appreciate your experimenting with the many settings of the 1130, and will look forward to any new ones that you come up with!!

LIY

.....I was wondering do the receivers normally come with stands?

Mine didn't.....bill :(

can someone ne kind enough to PM me either an online or your good local contact for a GREAT hookup in price on a PDP-1130? ;)

PLEASE?!!!!!!!!!!!!! :)

I purchased my 5060 online and when I received it I didn't notice the receiver didn't have a vertical stand. After working with pioneer to get my cable card to work I noticed holes to mount a vertical stand. I asked the pioneer tech I was working with and he sent me a stand as a courtesy. I was wondering do the receivers normally come with stands?

No. In fact, the manual states that mounting the box vertically could damage it. When I had a 4340 several years ago, it came with a stand and you could stand it up behind the panel. They must have decided in the past couple of years that standing it up was a Bad Thing, but didn't see any need to redesign the box ... they simply stopped including the stand.

What he said.... I'm pro DVR as well.


Add me to the pro PVR crowd too. In fact, I don't even have an HD signal yet for my new 5060 because I cannot give up the Directv Tivo box. I am impatiently waiting for a solution.

lhamp and Malicious, what PVR do you have?

Thanks,

Jeff

Add me to the pro PVR crowd too. In fact, I don't even have an HD signal yet for my new 5060 because I cannot give up the Directv Tivo box. I am impatiently waiting for a solution.

lhamp and Malicious, what PVR do you have?

Thanks,

Jeff

SA 8300/Passport

jeff - i have the moto 6412 connected to my 4360... hd looks awesome. i'm a tivo guy from way back (i still have a series1 with a lifetime subscription), but couldn't stand not having an HD dvr for the new plasma. with that said, when tivo finally releases the series3 i'll probably jump back to that. the moto UI is ok, but it isn't tivo! - Jim

Add me to the pro PVR crowd too. In fact, I don't even have an HD signal yet for my new 5060 because I cannot give up the Directv Tivo box. I am impatiently waiting for a solution.

lhamp and Malicious, what PVR do you have?

Thanks,

Jeff

I only have my motorola 6412 at the moment, but have owned Tivo Series I in the past as well as a BeyondTV based PC PVR.

The only reason I no longer have them was the lack of HD ability, which has been remedied in both recently. (well, hopefully soon with Tivo)

Guys, anyone who got a terrific deal on their 1130, could you please just PM me with some info on the purchase......my local guy is acting like a jerk and telling me he can't do much, even though I bought several high price items from him already.

Any hints or contacts would be appreciated....please PM me.

thanks.

I notice this pink tint on virtually all hd content - but especially flesh tones on HBO, Cinemax and Showtime movies, and MPT and Discovery HD videos, when people are present. Switching from the settings I use (Contrast 36, Color +5, Color Temp: Mid Black: On) (with most other settings either off or minimal) there is a noticeable red push and a darkening of the picture.

I just tried some other settings forwarded to me by lhamp - which were ISF calibrated - and I found the picture to be washed out and not very engaging. So, perhaps its me! ;)

In any case, I very much appreciate your experimenting with the many settings of the 1130, and will look forward to any new ones that you come up with!!

LIY

liy,

The Color Temperature "Mid" is no where near D6500. D6500 does have a "warm" look to it.....it's suppose to. However, if you don't like it, you can always play with the RGB controls in the "manual" color temp mode.

Guys, anyone who got a terrific deal on their 1130, could you please just PM me with some info on the purchase......my local guy is acting like a jerk and telling me he can't do much, even though I bought several high price items from him already.

Any hints or contacts would be appreciated....please PM me.

thanks.

Have you tried the dealer located on Pioneer's website? I would give you my contact in Noth Carolina, but they won't ship to Florida.

Have you tried the dealer located on Pioneer's website? I would give you my contact in Noth Carolina, but they won't ship to Florida.


The only people around here are Tweeter and Magnolia....both guys I talked to are being hard.

If I can get a contact from a tweeter or Magnolia in another state that was able to do a good price, I can have them at least price match it :D

Please .... ANYONE....if you purchased yours at tweeter or Magnolia, for a good deal, shoot me a PM.

I have until tomorrow to get my money back and purchase it

One more question:

The 1130 has 2 NTSC tuners and 1 ATSC/QAM tuner......can you see an HD with an SD signal in the PIP? or does it allow you to only use the PIP feature when doing SD signals?

yes, you can do sd in hd and vise-versa

yes, you can do sd in hd and vise-vera


Thank God! :)

Another question: How does the ISF modes work? can I calibrate the settings, or is that some hidden feature for ISF folks only?

sorry for the barrage of questions

I understand... time is running out on that refund :)

ISF settings, so far, can only be set by ISF techs. No one has been brave enough to go through the service menu twiddling options to see if they can find it. It might be in there, might not, we dont know. But the service menu isnt a place to go toying around, so unless you know exactly what you're doing, dont get your hopes up... just assume it's ISF only for now.

liy,

The Color Temperature "Mid" is no where near D6500. D6500 does have a "warm" look to it.....it's suppose to. However, if you don't like it, you can always play with the RGB controls in the "manual" color temp mode.

Well, shooting for a particular color temperature is not what I'm after. Getting flesh tones to look realistic is. After the flesh tones look real, then I tweak from there. Is there another way? :confused:

LIY

My 5060 just arrived and I am almost afraid to open the box! By the way, how do you open the box? I know I have to keep it in tact in case I have to send the tv back. I also know I can't lay it on it's side. Hmm!

I will be posting all of my experiences with the installation and setup and results. Now I have to get someone to help me move my old entertainment center out of the way, put together the new video base, install the wall mount and uncrate the tv....alll before I sleep!

viventis... just start tearing into it! before you know it there will be carboard innards and outtards all over the place and a gleaming plasma waiting to be plugged in... my 4360 came on tuesday and my wife and kids have been good enough to live with a room full of cardboard (neatly piled of course) until the weekend.

Can anyone tell me what the height of the 1130HD is when it's used with the stand?

Thanks!

Well, shooting for a particular color temperature is not what I'm after. Getting flesh tones to look realistic is. After the flesh tones look real, then I tweak from there. Is there another way? :confused:

LIY


Use pure mode and start with the color set to 0......work with the RGB controls from there.

My 5060 just arrived and I am almost afraid to open the box! By the way, how do you open the box? I know I have to keep it in tact in case I have to send the tv back. I also know I can't lay it on it's side. Hmm!

I will be posting all of my experiences with the installation and setup and results. Now I have to get someone to help me move my old entertainment center out of the way, put together the new video base, install the wall mount and uncrate the tv....alll before I sleep!

think of it like a shoebox. There is a shorter (4-6 inch) base box, and the bigger box slides down on top of it. If you remove all the straps, staples, etc from the lower sides of the box, you then just lift the top off slowly. As long as you dont knock anything over the panel will be standing up on the bottom section. Its not difficult at all to get it out. Make sure you have plenty of room on all sides so you arent cramped for space and knock something by mistake :D You can also take a look at the box pics in the link in my sig and they may be able to help you out with how things go together/come apart.

Having an extra person around to help stabilize things helps your confidence a lot too.

mb - you have way too much restraint!

mb - you have way too much restraint!

No, I just know I'm a clutz. If it can be broken, I will break it twice before even realizing it :D

But I also had Tweeter include delivery&setup in my purchase, so they did all the unboxing for me... but of course I watched them, and kept the boxes in the attic just in case...

My lack of restraint was in pushing the installers out the front door and litterally diving for the remote :eek:

Have you tried the dealer located on Pioneer's website? I would give you my contact in Noth Carolina, but they won't ship to Florida.
D-Nice, would you mind PM'ing me your contact? I'm located in Charlotte :)
Thanks!

Check-out the review on the Pioneer 1130 in the latest issue of AVguide. In a nutshell he says it is the best plasma currently available, period.

http://www.avguide.com/AVG_monthly/index.jsp

On an even better note my 1130 got delivered today and to say WOW is an understatement!!!

DNice, I don't think you need to profess the virtues of the Pioneer plasmas to the non-believers, just tell them to read the glowing pro reviews that are stacking up.

Thanks to the members for their commentaries here, it helped me go from zero knowledge of plasmas to making a good decision within a week. A special thanks to the heavy contributors like D-nice and Malicious ... and there are probably others from early in the thread who deserve kudos.

Now that I have the 1130 installed, I've searched and haven't found a clear answer to whether I should watch dvd's in cinema mode (black frames at top & bottom) during the break in period. Any reason why it's a bad idea?

Thanks in advance.

One last thing, Starpower in Dallas installed the unit and the guys were great but they were somewhat uninformed. When asked about any break in period they really didn't have a clue. Having said that, the price was good and the service (overall) was very good. Their store is a treat to visit.

Hi,

I have a 4360 plasma with H20 D* HD reciever. I'm using monoprice 6ft HDMI cable. On the HD channels I get pixelation when there is fast movement. Is this normal? Could this be D* or is 6ft monoprice HDMI cable not good enough? Also, on some of the shows, the movie seems to have bigger dots (pixel) like the image isn't so smooth? Is this due to the movie? Thanks in advance for your reply.

think of it like a shoebox. There is a shorter (4-6 inch) base box, and the bigger box slides down on top of it. If you remove all the straps, staples, etc from the lower sides of the box, you then just lift the top off slowly. As long as you dont knock anything over the panel will be standing up on the bottom section. Its not difficult at all to get it out. Make sure you have plenty of room on all sides so you arent cramped for space and knock something by mistake :D You can also take a look at the box pics in the link in my sig and they may be able to help you out with how things go together/come apart.

Having an extra person around to help stabilize things helps your confidence a lot too.

Thanks. I am glad I resisted the temptation to slice open the top of the outer box before trying the "lift off" method. The rest was fairly simple although I was a little timid about laying the plasma on it's face to install the table top stand. That's what the instructions said to do. I put a comforter on the table first.

Since I could'nt get my old entertainment center picked up by the purchaser until about 6:00 pm, I decided to install the table top stand and wait to install the wall mount. To tell the truth, it looks great on the stand.

The hookup was pretty easy with one exception. The analog sound inputs for Input #1 are right next to the RGB inputs. But, The analog audio inputs for Input #3 are not the ones directly next to the RGB inputs for #3. (Why?) I thought my Input #3 audio was messed up until I found them a couple of inches away and higher up. I want to use the speakers to make it easier for the kids. I was pleased to see (hear) that there is no lip sync issue with the Moxi or the Oppo when I do go through the receiver for full surround pleasure.

No dead or stuck pixels!!!!!!!!!!!

Does "auto wide" work with 4:3 output on the HD channels? It doesn't seem to but maybe I am missing something. I don't like 4:3 commercials putting black (not gray) side bars on the screen during the break in period.

I am a little ticked at Charter. The customer service rep insisted that the DVI output now works on the Moxi Box. (My original instructions said the DVI output was for "future use.") I ordered a DVI to HDMI cable (from Monoprice thankfully) but it does not work (I know about "activating" the HDMI in the menu, I did it for the Oppo. I even swapped cables). Component looks good enough, but I wonder what I'm missing. Can anyone tell me how big a difference there is between HDMI vs Component HD cable? If there is a significant difference, I might opt for a Cable Card instead of the Moxi. The SD analog channels coming out of the Moxi are dreadful. I knew that would be the case because they weren't all that hot with my CRT. For some reason, the Moxi fuzzes up the analog channels. Even the installer admitted it. The digital SD channels are better than I feared. Quite watchable.

The Oppo is beyond all of my expectations so far for a DVD player. I was up until 3:30 last night transfixed by Ice Age, a movie I "saw again for the first time."

No dead or stuck pixels!!!!!!!!!!!

Does "auto wide" work with 4:3 output on the HD channels? It doesn't seem to but maybe I am missing something. I don't like 4:3 commercials putting black (not gray) side bars on the screen during the break in period.



Viventis,

Congrats on your new 1130. I also got mine yesterday. Amazing PQ!

I am also glad to say no dead or stuck pixels. That is another reason why I decided to go with the 1130 over the 5060 as I was told by Pioneer tech support that they use higher quality components and a more rigorous QA when they make the 1130. Who knows if it is just marketing BS but I have yet to hear that an Elite owner has a panel with dead pixels.

HD is always in a 16:9 format so on a 4:3 picture the broadcasters attach sidebars to make it 16:9 and the plasma just thinks it 16:9. I heard some of the Philips plasmas can autodetect the sidebars and can auto adjust the picture size. I don't think the Pioneer can do this on 4:3 HD material.

Viventis,

Congrats on your new 1130. I also got mine yesterday. Amazing PQ!

I am also glad to say no dead or stuck pixels. That is another reason why I decided to go with the 1130 over the 5060 as I was told by Pioneer tech support that they use higher quality components and a more rigorous QA when they make the 1130. Who knows if it is just marketing BS but I have yet to hear that an Elite owner has a panel with dead pixels.

HD is always in a 16:9 format so on a 4:3 picture the broadcasters attach sidebars to make it 16:9 and the plasma just thinks it 16:9. I heard some of the Philips plasmas can autodetect the sidebars and can auto adjust the picture size. I don't think the Pioneer can do this on 4:3 HD material.

Actually, mine is a 5060. Just couldn't pass up the deal that lured me away from the new 50" NEC.

jeff - i have the moto 6412 connected to my 4360... hd looks awesome. i'm a tivo guy from way back (i still have a series1 with a lifetime subscription), but couldn't stand not having an HD dvr for the new plasma. with that said, when tivo finally releases the series3 i'll probably jump back to that. the moto UI is ok, but it isn't tivo! - Jim

Jim & Malicious -- I don't want to get off topic here, but I 'd like to hear more about how the moto 6412 compares to the old tivo. I can get the box from Comcast, but rumor has it the new Directv tivo replacement (non tivo) is due out "soon"--whenever that may be. Until then, I'm enjoying my DVD collection and the suprisingly good SD picture from Directv.

Jeff

I got my 5060 about a month ago (first HDTV) and am loving it. I've used the break-in settings I've run across during the last 90 pages of reading, and am now ready to change to post-break-in settings. At the same time, I also reaplaced a very old non-progressive Sony DVD with a Panasonic S77.

I think I have a handle on settings for HTDV (using SA3250HD box), but would love to see some recommended settings for DVDs on my S77. I also need to learn more about settings for the S77 itself, but I realize this isn't the spot for it, so 5060 settings would be great.

I was a little timid about laying the plasma on it's face to install the table top stand. That's what the instructions said to do. I put a comforter on the table first.


I just had two people hold the panel for me while i attach it to the stand vertically. That way i wouldn't have to lay it flat on its face. I held strict to the suggestion of never laying the panel flat.

Actually, mine is a 5060. Just couldn't pass up the deal that lured me away from the new 50" NEC.

I was in the same situation as I was down to the NEC 50XR5 and the Pioneer 5060/1130. Both are great plasmas but when I compared the greyscales and overall PQ I knew which one I wanted :D .

Use pure mode and start with the color set to 0......work with the RGB controls from there.

Must tell you that in testing Malicious' settings, I was using "Standard" as the AV mode, not "Pure"! Using "Pure" and inputting Malicious' settings, the picture is much, much better (and no pink tint!) - though I am uncertain if it is the picture I'm looking for. :o

What is the difference between "Pure" "Standard" and "User" - as each one of these (along with "Game" and "Movie" allow for all settings to be adjusted? Why then does "pure" yield a different picture?

(Looked in the Manual, but there is too little there to really differentiate these settings).

Thank you!

LIY

I DID IT!!!! :) :D

hopefully on 2/24 I will be a happy and proud owner of an 1130!! (they were backordered til then).......thanks to Lee, Peuo, Ian, and all the others who were kind enough to PM me with their contacts for a good deal ;)


Ok, so on to a couple of questions:

1. I see this set has dual tuners, one NTSC and one ATSC (manual says it has one digital/analog cable connector, one analog cable connector)..... My SXRD had the same, but I was able to see HD content thru the "analog" connection because it was able to pick up unscrambled QAM, while using the other connection for the OTA HD antenna.....so in essence I had 2 "HD" connections. Is this possible with the 1130's setup box?

If someone has just regular cable coming from the wall to the unit, is there a way you could test this and let me know in advance?

2. I read on the AVguide's review (http://www.avguide.com/AVG_monthly/index.jsp) that you could NOT delete/hide channels....:confused: Is this the case???? that would royally suck! :(

3. I am reading thru the manual as we speak, but is there an Elite "tweaks" thread or somewhere where I can see what a good optimal setting to start my calibrations would be? (ie, Pro vs Standard, which color settings, ISF setting, etc, etc) :)

4. Best way to "break in" the set? I've heard numerous suggestions, but what's the best and quickest? any DVDs that I can let run over and over overnite?

can you tell I'm excited???? :p

ps- the salesperson told me I can keep the SXRD until the unit comes in, so I wont be without HD ....hehehehe.

I searched for about 30 minutes on this thread but had no luck. I am looking for settings for the 5060 pdp AFTER break-in. D-Nice...what numbers to you have for this model? Thanks!

I just had two people hold the panel for me while i attach it to the stand vertically. That way i wouldn't have to lay it flat on its face. I held strict to the suggestion of never laying the panel flat.


I unfortunately had to lay mine down during transport (about 20 minutes away). It was in the box so all the foam was supporting it. I still feel guilty though. I was told that it is a myth that something happens to the gases if you lay them flat. Just that the glass could crack because there is no support for the glass when laid flat.

Anyway, today is the first day home for my new Pioneer 930! But I can't turn it on because I found out today from my cable company that the DVR boxes (only model with HDMI) are backordered. So who knows when those will come.

It is nice look at anyway. :)

I unfortunately had to lay mine down during transport (about 20 minutes away). It was in the box so all the foam was supporting it. I still feel guilty though. I was told that it is a myth that something happens to the gases if you lay them flat. Just that the glass could crack because there is no support for the glass when laid flat.

Anyway, today is the first day home for my new Pioneer 930! But I can't turn it on because I found out today from my cable company that the DVR boxes (only model with HDMI) are backordered. So who knows when those will come.

It is nice look at anyway. :)


So why can't you turn it on using your existing box with component connections?

I could do that...But then I have to unhook the other TV the cable box is hooked up to. I am still considering doing it.

What I may do is have them give me just a regular HD box, which doesn't have HDMI, and use that until the DVR boxes come in. They can't give me an answer on a date when they will arrive so I gotta do something.

You think I can just hook the cable line up to it with Audio cables? Will probably look like crap though.

I DID IT!!!! :) :D

hopefully on 2/24 I will be a happy and proud owner of an 1130!! (they were backordered til then).......thanks to Lee, Peuo, Ian, and all the others who were kind enough to PM me with their contacts for a good deal ;)


Ok, so on to a couple of questions:

1. I see this set has dual tuners, one NTSC and one ATSC (manual says it has one digital/analog cable connector, one analog cable connector)..... My SXRD had the same, but I was able to see HD content thru the "analog" connection because it was able to pick up unscrambled QAM, while using the other connection for the OTA HD antenna.....so in essence I had 2 "HD" connections. Is this possible with the 1130's setup box?

If someone has just regular cable coming from the wall to the unit, is there a way you could test this and let me know in advance?

2. I read on the AVguide's review (http://www.avguide.com/AVG_monthly/index.jsp) that you could NOT delete/hide channels....:confused: Is this the case???? that would royally suck! :(

3. I am reading thru the manual as we speak, but is there an Elite "tweaks" thread or somewhere where I can see what a good optimal setting to start my calibrations would be? (ie, Pro vs Standard, which color settings, ISF setting, etc, etc) :)

4. Best way to "break in" the set? I've heard numerous suggestions, but what's the best and quickest? any DVDs that I can let run over and over overnite?

can you tell I'm excited???? :p

ps- the salesperson told me I can keep the SXRD until the unit comes in, so I wont be without HD ....hehehehe.

I'll be really interested in how you like the new set. I currently have a 60" Sxrd and I am thinking of returning and maybe waiting it out. I had a Pioneer Elite HD710 RPT that died on me so I had to replace it with something. Called Tweeter and they recommended the Sony 006 I look and it was just to big and expensive for me so I checked out the 60 Sxrd and after having it for a few weeks I really miss my old set. SD, HD and DVD all looked great on the 710. The Sony is a mixed bag. SD is grainy and washed out, HD content looks good and DVD's using my Pioneer Elite 38A is a flip of the coin some look good and others down right bad. Unfortunately my Sony has the Green Blob issue really bad and never goes away that coupled with some blue/purple side bar issues I am hard pressed to keep it. The other set I was looking at originally was the Pioneer Elite 1410 61" plasma the hold back on that one was cost for an older panel that was due for replacement some time ago. I am thinking I might check out the Pioneer 1130 it seems to be getting good reviews. Since my 710 died in Oct I was watching a 26" Samsung LCD set and really didn't mind it. I could always go back to that set and wait some and see how the newer Plasmas look, or if Sony gets the issues with the Sxrd corrected. I will have to start going back to the stores and take another look at the Plasmas. I think I didnt mind the 26" Sammy LN-R268w LCD because SD, HD and DVD's all look equally good on its 1366(H) x 768(V) Pixel Resolution. After watching on this resolution I am not as fearful of a Plasma Panel at the same resolution.

Hi everyone,

I'm new to this site but have read several posts. I just returned a Sony 60 inch sxrd today. I'm currently looking at the Pioneer 1130. I was fortunate to have had an SXRD w/o green blob or other issues, but was concerned about bulb replacement later & the inability to accept a true 1080p source. Though the Pioneer plasmas are unable to accept a 1080p (exception of pro-fhd1), I figure I can later move the 1130 to another room. What concerns, if any, are there with this display?

Thanx in advance for your replies.

Hi everyone,

I'm new to this site but have read several posts. I just returned a Sony 60 inch sxrd today. I'm currently looking at the Pioneer 1130. I was fortunate to have had an SXRD w/o green blob or other issues, but was concerned about bulb replacement later & the inability to accept a true 1080p source. Though the Pioneer plasmas are unable to accept a 1080p (exception of pro-fhd1), I figure I can later move the 1130 to another room. What concerns, if any, are there with this display?

Thanx in advance for your replies.


No concerns with a Pioneer, they are the best Plasma out there, next to the real high enders. Reliability should be better than most since they are working on there 6th or 7th generation, whereas most other manufacturers are on their second or third at most. Don't think about it any further if you can afford the Pio, buy it be at peace. They rock.


If you are considerining a 43" the 1080p shouldn't be a major concern, it may not even be noticable to the naked eye. Not to mention trying to get the latest technology and keep up with it is an exercise in futility.

I've been reading the posts about the Pioneer and am considering one after two failed attempts with other brands. What is confusing are the references to commercial/professional models versus consumer models. For example, some posters list 5060/1130 as the model number.

Could someone point me to site that lists the various models by size and their respective types (consumer, commercial) and model numbers.

Thanks.

I was in the same situation as I was down to the NEC 50XR5 and the Pioneer 5060/1130. Both are great plasmas but when I compared the greyscales and overall PQ I knew which one I wanted :D .

I have narrowed my upcoming purchase to either a Pioneer 4360, elite 930 or NEC 42XR4.

Can you or anyone share your reasons in greater detail; for choosing the Pioneer over the NEC. Thanks.

I'll be really interested in how you like the new set. I currently have a 60" Sxrd and I am thinking of returning and maybe waiting it out. I had a Pioneer Elite HD710 RPT that died on me so I had to replace it with something. Called Tweeter and they recommended the Sony 006 I look and it was just to big and expensive for me so I checked out the 60 Sxrd and after having it for a few weeks I really miss my old set. SD, HD and DVD all looked great on the 710. The Sony is a mixed bag. SD is grainy and washed out, HD content looks good and DVD's using my Pioneer Elite 38A is a flip of the coin some look good and others down right bad. Unfortunately my Sony has the Green Blob issue really bad and never goes away that coupled with some blue/purple side bar issues I am hard pressed to keep it. The other set I was looking at originally was the Pioneer Elite 1410 61" plasma the hold back on that one was cost for an older panel that was due for replacement some time ago. I am thinking I might check out the Pioneer 1130 it seems to be getting good reviews. Since my 710 died in Oct I was watching a 26" Samsung LCD set and really didn't mind it. I could always go back to that set and wait some and see how the newer Plasmas look, or if Sony gets the issues with the Sxrd corrected. I will have to start going back to the stores and take another look at the Plasmas. I think I didnt mind the 26" Sammy LN-R268w LCD because SD, HD and DVD's all look equally good on its 1366(H) x 768(V) Pixel Resolution. After watching on this resolution I am not as fearful of a Plasma Panel at the same resolution.
As soon as the unit gets here, I will let you know.....but I've always had something for the Elite (although I was never really "fond" of the plasma PQ....the elite was definitely the exception). Once I had the problems with the SXRD and went to the store and saw it in person again, side by side with other plasmas and RPTV's, the decision was done!

Hi everyone,

I'm new to this site but have read several posts. I just returned a Sony 60 inch sxrd today. I'm currently looking at the Pioneer 1130. I was fortunate to have had an SXRD w/o green blob or other issues, but was concerned about bulb replacement later & the inability to accept a true 1080p source. Though the Pioneer plasmas are unable to accept a 1080p (exception of pro-fhd1), I figure I can later move the 1130 to another room. What concerns, if any, are there with this display?

Thanx in advance for your replies.
Do a search under my name in this thread....same scenario as you! The real only concern you will have is going down in size, and making sure you "break in" the set properly....after that, it should be smooth sailing and countless hours of enjoyment! :D

could someone PLEASE answer some of my questions:
http://avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7158014&&#post7158014

thanks! :)

Gents,

I have an elite 1130 HDMI connected to a DirecTV HD receiver H10 and a Panasonic DVD S77. I used D-Nice settings for the break-in period for about 4 months and thought PQ looked outstanding. I recently had the 1130 calibrated by a certified ISF engineer. The ISF day and night modes enhanced the PQ to the next level. WOW!!!!!

I have a DirecTV HD receiver H10 with an OTA antenna and debating the purchase of a new DirecTV HD receiver H20. Is this it really worth the money upgrade or will i need to upgrade at a later date to take advantage of 4mb mpeg signal feed? Also, will I need re-calibrate?

Gents,

I have an elite 1130 HDMI connected to a DirecTV HD receiver H10 and a Panasonic DVD S77. I used D-Nice settings for the break-in period for about 4 months and thought PQ looked outstanding. I recently had the 1130 calibrated by a certified ISF engineer. The ISF day and night modes enhanced the PQ to the next level. WOW!!!!!

I have a DirecTV HD H10 receiver with an OTA antenna and debating if I should purchase the new DirecTV HD H20 receiver. Here are my questions: What are the benefits of the HD H20 vs H10 receiver? Is the H20 unit really worth the money or will I still need to upgrade the H10 at a later date to take advantage of 4mb mpeg signal feeds? Also, will I need to re-calibrate the 1130 if I replace the existing HD H10 receiver with an H20 or a DVR? Your feed back would appreciated.

Thanks,

George

Gents,

I have an elite 1130 HDMI connected to a DirecTV HD receiver H10 and a Panasonic DVD S77. I used D-Nice settings for the break-in period for about 4 months and thought PQ looked outstanding. I recently had the 1130 calibrated by a certified ISF engineer. The ISF day and night modes enhanced the PQ to the next level. WOW!!!!!

I have a DirecTV HD receiver H10 with an OTA antenna and debating the purchase of a new DirecTV HD receiver H20. Is this it really worth the money upgrade or will i need to upgrade at a later date to take advantage of 4mb mpeg signal feed? Also, will I need re-calibrate?

George

Its good to hear there is a noticable difference with the ISF tuning, I want to get this done once I break mine in completely. I hear the difference can be stunning.

1. I see this set has dual tuners, one NTSC and one ATSC (manual says it has one digital/analog cable connector, one analog cable connector)..... My SXRD had the same, but I was able to see HD content thru the "analog" connection because it was able to pick up unscrambled QAM, while using the other connection for the OTA HD antenna.....so in essence I had 2 "HD" connections. Is this possible with the 1130's setup box?

No. You will only be able to get digital/HD channels thru ant1.


2. I read on the AVguide's review (http://www.avguide.com/AVG_monthly/index.jsp) that you could NOT delete/hide channels....:confused: Is this the case???? that would royally suck! :(

You cannot delete channels from the scanned channels list, but you can "hide" unwanted channels in the TV Guide grid.


3. I am reading thru the manual as we speak, but is there an Elite "tweaks" thread or somewhere where I can see what a good optimal setting to start my calibrations would be? (ie, Pro vs Standard, which color settings, ISF setting, etc, etc) :)

Look a couple of pages back as I've posted numerous settings for Elites.


4. Best way to "break in" the set? I've heard numerous suggestions, but what's the best and quickest? any DVDs that I can let run over and over overnite?

Someone made a break-in disc on this forum....do a search for the thread. Another option is turn to Discovery HD and let is run overnight and while you are not watching the plasma.

Must tell you that in testing Malicious' settings, I was using "Standard" as the AV mode, not "Pure"! Using "Pure" and inputting Malicious' settings, the picture is much, much better (and no pink tint!) - though I am uncertain if it is the picture I'm looking for. :o

What is the difference between "Pure" "Standard" and "User" - as each one of these (along with "Game" and "Movie" allow for all settings to be adjusted? Why then does "pure" yield a different picture?

(Looked in the Manual, but there is too little there to really differentiate these settings).

Thank you!

LIY

Settings vary per AV selection, but Standard and User modes are pretty much the same...User is suppose to be where you can setup your own personal settings per input while Standard, Movie, Game, Pure, etc are global.

DO NOT ever use Dynamic...it's the worst mode on the Pioneer.

Pure mode, is an AV mode that is exclusive to the elites. It bypasses most video processing ( of course you you can tweak the picture by playing with the settings) and what you see is what the source is sending to the Pioneer. I've found this mode to produce the best overall picture...colors, shadow detail, skin tones, etc.

Just got my 1130HD up and running yesterday. I was little concerned about SD quality until I realized the overprocessed Dynamic setting is the default. Setting to Pure cleaned things up nicely. Running with the reduced Contrast/Brightness settings for break-in but it takes away from the pic. Also pleased about the sound as far as TV speakers go - a bit better than the Panasonics.

For checking dead/stuck pixels, what are you guys using? I understand if your going to get them they are most likely to occur in the first 30 days.

For checking dead/stuck pixels, what are you guys using?

Find some red, green, and blue test patterns.

I would be interested to know what Pioneer DVD players people here recommend or are using, considering this is my next step.

Check-out the review on the Pioneer 1130 in the latest issue of AVguide. In a nutshell he says it is the best plasma currently available, period.

http://www.avguide.com/AVG_monthly/index.jsp

On an even better note my 1130 got delivered today and to say WOW is an understatement!!!

DNice, I don't think you need to profess the virtues of the Pioneer plasmas to the non-believers, just tell them to read the glowing pro reviews that are stacking up.


I read the article and the reviewer did not say that.

I read the article and the reviewer did not say that.

Please enlighten us as to what he did say?

Many thanks to everyone on this thread! I've been scanning it for a couple months. I broke down a couple weeks ago and purchased the 1130. What a great display! Of course, that led to purchasing a new A/V receiver because the surround sound of the old one just didn't do the display justice. Of course, that led to purchasing a new set of speakers because I just couldn't justify mating that new A/V receiver to a pair of 20 year old Cerwin Vegas... Anyway, thanks everybody!

On to my question... I've searched and searched but can't figure out how to find out how many hours I have on my display. I've been using the break-in settings that D-Nice published but am anxious to get my display calibrated.

Can anyone help?
Thanks!

No. You will only be able to get digital/HD channels thru ant1.


Here is an interesting question....lets see how good all you so called "gurus" really are....

The SXRD is supposed to have ONE NTSC tuner, and ONE ATSC tuner.....as is the pioneer Elite, right?

So which connection in the back has the connection to the ATSC tuner, and which one to the NTSC tuner, and how is it different thatn the Elite?

Before you answer, keep in mind that I have mine hooked up this way:
OTA HD antenna connected to the UHF/VHF F connector, and regular cable coming off the wall connected to the cable F connector...... Now HERE is the real funny thing:

I get regular HD local channels thru the antenna connection (4.1, 6.1, etc) ........AND
I also get unscrambled HD channels thru the cable connection (Discovery HD on 117.300, TNT-HD on 104.1, etc)

How is this possible and how can you explain this????? :confused:

...User is suppose to be where you can setup your own personal settings per input while Standard, Movie, Game, Pure, etc are global.

Pure mode, is an AV mode that is exclusive to the elites. It bypasses most video processing ( of course you you can tweak the picture by playing with the settings) and what you see is what the source is sending to the Pioneer. I've found this mode to produce the best overall picture...colors, shadow detail, skin tones, etc.

I just did some test and noticed something I can't explain. I set the User and Pure modes with exactly the same settings. ( they happened to be the ones from Malicious but that shouldn't matter).

Anyway the picture, especially skin tones, is very different. How can that be since I am theoretically starting from the same base?

Here is an interesting question....lets see how good all you so called "gurus" really are....

The SXRD is supposed to have ONE NTSC tuner, and ONE ATSC tuner.....as is the pioneer Elite, right?

So which connection in the back has the connection to the ATSC tuner, and which one to the NTSC tuner, and how is it different thatn the Elite?

Before you answer, keep in mind that I have mine hooked up this way:
OTA HD antenna connected to the UHF/VHF F connector, and regular cable coming off the wall connected to the cable F connector...... Now HERE is the real funny thing:

I get regular HD local channels thru the antenna connection (4.1, 6.1, etc) ........AND
I also get unscrambled HD channels thru the cable connection (Discovery HD on 117.300, TNT-HD on 104.1, etc)

How is this possible and how can you explain this????? :confused:

I'm not sure why the SXRD does that but the 1130 has 2 NTSC and 1 ATSC tuners.

ANT 1 for ATSC/NTSC
ANT 2 for NTSC

I just did some test and noticed something I can't explain. I set the User and Pure modes with exactly the same settings. ( they happened to be the ones from Malicious but that shouldn't matter).

Anyway the picture, especially skin tones, is very different. How can that be since I am theoretically starting from the same base?

Pure mode is NOT like user mode. Pure mode is set "dead on" per the HD colorspace whereas User, Standard, etc push green and blue.

I'm not sure why the SXRD does that but the 1130 has 2 NTSC and 1 ATSC tuners.

ANT 1 for ATSC/NTSC
ANT 2 for NTSC


So what is your suggestion on the hookup?

I have an OTA HD antenna to get locals from both Miami (south) and West Palm Beach to the north (I live in the middle)...comes in handy when football season is on (sometimes each CBS or FOX will show different games), and when one station will transmit the show in SD and the same station from the other city will transmit in HD.

I also have cable, straight from the wall, which contains all my regular SD (CNN, espn, hbo, etc) and also carried unscrambled QAM HD channels (I get Miami's locals in HD, Discovery HD, TNT-HD, etc).

maybe doing a Y connector?

Or maybe, since UHF/VFH only goes to channel 76, then maybe doing a joiner on that for my OTA antenna and Cable, and then I can get my local HD antenna stuff up to channel 76, and then the HD stuff past that on the cable side?

Ok...I just figured out that sony internally routes both connections to the same tuner....I wonder if Pioneer does the same.

could someone check this for me? Just plug in your cable connection off the wall directly to both connections....and see if you get any digital signals either way.

A HUGE thanks in advance!

Ok...I just figured out that sony internally routes both connections to the same tuner....I wonder if Pioneer does the same.

could someone check this for me? Just plug in your cable connection off the wall directly to both connections....and see if you get any digital signals either way.

A HUGE thanks in advance!

Been there, done that and it doesn't work like that with the Pioneer. You will ONLY get HD signals from ANT 1.

So what is your suggestion on the hookup?

I have an OTA HD antenna to get locals from both Miami (south) and West Palm Beach to the north (I live in the middle)...comes in handy when football season is on (sometimes each CBS or FOX will show different games), and when one station will transmit the show in SD and the same station from the other city will transmit in HD.

I also have cable, straight from the wall, which contains all my regular SD (CNN, espn, hbo, etc) and also carried unscrambled QAM HD channels (I get Miami's locals in HD, Discovery HD, TNT-HD, etc).

maybe doing a Y connector?

Or maybe, since UHF/VFH only goes to channel 76, then maybe doing a joiner on that for my OTA antenna and Cable, and then I can get my local HD antenna stuff up to channel 76, and then the HD stuff past that on the cable side?

You are going to have to choose between the cable connection and the OTA antenna. There is no way to connect both the ANT 1.

Hi All -

I recently bought a 5060 and I have the same question as below. I have a comcast-moto 3400 DVR box outputting through a 6' HDMI Monstercable. Static HD signals look awesome. HD signals with fast movement (like the Olympics) sometimes appear 'pixelated'.

Is this normal?

Should I try component output instead?

I am moving up from a 32' Tube HD TV. HD on that 32" unit literally was like looking at a photograph.

Are my expectations too high?

Thanks,

John


Hi,

I have a 4360 plasma with H20 D* HD reciever. I'm using monoprice 6ft HDMI cable. On the HD channels I get pixelation when there is fast movement. Is this normal? Could this be D* or is 6ft monoprice HDMI cable not good enough? Also, on some of the shows, the movie seems to have bigger dots (pixel) like the image isn't so smooth? Is this due to the movie? Thanks in advance for your reply.

You are going to have to choose between the cable connection and the OTA antenna. There is no way to connect both the ANT 1.

I have the 5060... so D-Nice, you are saying essentially that only one antenna (think mine is A and B... not 1 and 2) will allow HD signals? So I have to choose either cable or OTA?

What if I am not getting the HD package from my cable company? Can I just push that one thru the other antenna port and put my OTA thru the one that can get HD?

You are going to have to choose between the cable connection and the OTA antenna. There is no way to connect both the ANT 1.


that's gonna suck bad :( :mad:

So it's either getting an A-B switch to switch between them, or get an external OTA tuner with HDMI outputs to plug into the 1130's box..

crud!

that's gonna suck bad :( :mad:

So it's either getting an A-B switch to switch between them, or get an external OTA tuner with HDMI outputs to plug into the 1130's box..

crud!
Unfortunately, that's right, ssabripo. The lack of two HD RF inputs is one of the few areas where the Pioneer plasmas are not "best in class". And if you go the A-B switch route, you're gonna have to re-scan for channels each time you switch between OTA and cable - which will definitely suck.

Also, it would be nice if the HDMI/Component inputs weren't "shared" - ie, it would be nice if it had 4 seperate HD inputs with 2 seperate HDMI inputs along with 2 seperate component inputs - but I guess you can't have everything. :D

Unfortunately, that's right, ssabripo. The lack of two HD RF inputs is one of the few areas where the Pioneer plasmas are not "best in class". And if you go the A-B switch route, you're gonna have to re-scan for channels each time you switch between OTA and cable - which will definitely suck.



do I really have to re-scan? If I already know what the channels are, then can't I manually put it in? as in switch the A-B, and then manually type 4.1 or 6.1, etc? :confused:

please dont tell me that Pioneer has this wierd thing that you MUST have the channels scanned into the box before it even tries to send it to the monitor! :mad:

Hi All -

I recently bought a 5060 and I have the same question as below. I have a comcast-moto 3400 DVR box outputting through a 6' HDMI Monstercable. Static HD signals look awesome. HD signals with fast movement (like the Olympics) sometimes appear 'pixelated'.

Is this normal?

Should I try component output instead?

I am moving up from a 32' Tube HD TV. HD on that 32" unit literally was like looking at a photograph.

Are my expectations too high?

Thanks,

John

The pixelation is caused by your Cable Co not the panel.

I have the 5060... so D-Nice, you are saying essentially that only one antenna (think mine is A and B... not 1 and 2) will allow HD signals? So I have to choose either cable or OTA?

What if I am not getting the HD package from my cable company? Can I just push that one thru the other antenna port and put my OTA thru the one that can get HD?


If you are using a cable card from your cable co then yes you will have to choose between that and the OTA antenna. If you have a cable box, no as your cable box should be connected to the MR thru component or HDMI/DVI.

I just got off the phone with tech support for Pioneer......some "semi" good news (not really, but at least it wasn't the worst case scenario):

ANT1 is the ONLY connection that is HD capable. However, I can have an A-B switch, and as long as I know the actual channels (which I do), then you can just type those directly in (such as 6.1, etc).

so, it IS a little PITA, since I will have to get up, walk over to the switch and press it, and then manually get the channel that I want....

sucks, but better than having to rescan everything EVERYTIME :o

I thank anyone and everyone for their advice on this thread. It is very helpful.

Just got the 5060 running a few weeks ago with HD cable box (explorer 8300?) Everything has looked wonderful and amazing coming from standard TV until now.

Problem is: lower half of the diplay shows horizontal lines which seem to be a partial repeat of the upper half of the screen- very annoying and ruins the enjoyment.

Problem occurs: 1. ice hockey, speed skating (winter olympics) 2. panoramic beach scenes with sand and moving waves.

I've tried altering settings, but can't resove the problem.

display is connected via high quality component cable.

Any insights? I to have the same problem it seem's to me as some sort of interference. I see it mostly on the olympics but it is there on other broadcasts also. I did not see it on nascar yesterday.

do I really have to re-scan? If I already know what the channels are, then can't I manually put it in? as in switch the A-B, and then manually type 4.1 or 6.1, etc? :confused:

please dont tell me that Pioneer has this wierd thing that you MUST have the channels scanned into the box before it even tries to send it to the monitor! :mad:
If it was previously set for cable and you wanted to go to an OTA channel (or vice versa) I don't know whether it would let you directly enter the other channel and have it work or not. I remember reading here that when you switch between cable and OTA that it does not remember your channels. Maybe someone else knows for sure :confused:

EDIT:
Just saw the answer in the post above. Glad to hear that you can enter the channel directly after all. But still not as nice as having 2 RF HD inputs...

is there any display on the market now that has 2 qam atsc/ntsc tuners?

ed: ahhh ok, the newest SXRD's will... nice feature...

so, it IS a little PITA, since I will have to get up, walk over to the switch and press it, and then manually get the channel that I want....

:o


Get a remote A/B from Radio Shack, then at least you won't have to "get up."... much less of a PITA.

Get a remote A/B from Radio Shack, then at least you won't have to "get up."... much less of a PITA.


I'm looking for that, but can't find one....any links? :)

I'm looking for that, but can't find one....any links? :)

Sorry... I bought one at radio shack about five years ago... it worked great and it was pretty cheap if I remember correctly.

I'm looking for that, but can't find one....any links? :)


Bingo:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049643&cp=2032057

I just recently had my Pio 5060 "freeze" on me. I was watching olympics HD, the screen froze and after like 15 seconds, the panel shut down by itself. I can immediately turn it back on, but it takes longer to come back, it says something like warming up panel or something, i dun remember. I was watching HD thru OTA. It's the first time it happened, should i be concerned?

Bingo:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049643&cp=2032057


you guys are GODS!!!!

http://99smiles.com/bowdown.gif