View Full Version : Official Pioneer 4360/5060/Elite Experiences, Set-up, Questions & Pictures Thread!!!
PAnoah6791 03-06-06, 01:54 AM Careful Skil... I believe the moderators have asked that we not post SM codes.
In addition... you didn't tell him how to "scroll" through the pages... you might want to PM him that info... there's no way someone could figure that out.
Could you pm me the info on how to do this as well, thanks!
CHolleman 03-06-06, 08:42 AM Pixelation or macroblocking can easily be from compression of the source. I have cable and notice macroblocking on CRTs with some channels. I've kinda been bummed how much cable is compressed actually, now that I'm seeing it on a larger set. You see it in fast motion more easily due to the way compression works.
Audio or video dropouts sound pretty extreme though. I would tend to attribute those to the source or satellite, though I've never had a satellite connection so I'm just guessing. Swapping out a new cable never hurts to try either.
it's just the video dropping out. i always have audio. i think it may be the receiver. (or just D*TV's technology) as the receiver is always slow to respond and i read that most of the problems with HDMI cables show up as sparklies. now that i think about it, if it was the cable, the problem would show up more frequently i would think. it's only for a split second and very rarely. probably the comression of the source causing it.
ssabripo 03-06-06, 08:46 AM I noticed this as well when I first got my 5060. The Media box needs to be on standby for the guide to update/populate. I had been leaving it on overnite on HDNET for initial "burn-in", but after I found out this I turned it off overnite. The next morning all of the channels (and a lot I don't actually get) were in the guide; most had actual programming. I was a little surprised that it worked this way, ota, without having to have the tuner tuned to some specific channel which was broadcasting this data. Don't know how it works, but it did work for me once I left the box on standby overnite.
Ok, you were right :)
the problem is, that it asked me to choose between 4 different comcast settings (some numbers after them, I assume codes for their location branch)....I chose one ,and it was the wrong one.
I assume I can goto change that, right? :confused:
jstorerj 03-06-06, 01:18 PM Could someone pls pm me the info on how to check the hours on a 4360? Thanks.
Does anyone know what the best resolution is to set your p.c. to when connecting to this tv via vga?
I agree not having a "native" setting on the HD-TIVO is a bummer as the scaler on the TIVO is poor compared the one in the Pioneer. I don't like using 480p or 720p as again the de-interlacer is not very good on the TIVO and I don't think it even incorporates 2:3 pull-down detection for film based material (causes jaggies). I also don't like using 720p since most HD material is native 1080i and again I would rather have the Pioneer do the scaling down to the native 768p resolution of the panel.
The best you can do is to use the TIVO remote up arrow to switch between 480i, which is native for all SD channels, and 1080i, which I believe is native for all, or at least most, of the HD channels. If it is to much of a pain to switch between 480i and 1080i, I would leave it on 1080i as that way you always get the best PQ for HD, which in my opinion matters the most. I agree that the only downside to using 1080i is the "judder" it can cause on 24 fps film material if Pure Cinema is in the standard or ADV mode. But hey you can turn off Pure Cinema which eliminates the judder and is no worst than than having the TIVO do the de-interlacing. Hope that helps.
Agree with all of the above. Notes...
- I thought FOX was broadcast in 720p, anyone in know. Also is DTV HD in 1080i?
- I need to try more 480i to see what works best.
- The judder is rather annoying. It seems almost like it is picking the wrong frame division when it maps a single 24Hz frame to 72Hz (like the processor breaks in the middle of a 24Hz frame. Or is could be that the content already has 24-30Hz conversion and that the 72Hz refresh establishes a beat frequency.
Does anyone know what the best resolution is to set your p.c. to when connecting to this tv via vga?
1280x768
-D
Guys (and gals)...
My Dad pulled the trigger on the 1130HD. But after reading the advice/comments in this thread and making some general comments to him, he's now all freaked about regarding the TV.
Primarily, his concerns are around image retention and burn in. I told him we'll have to tweak the settings, etc. initally to prevent this from happened, but also commented on him having to vary his programs. So he no thinks he has to change the channels every 5 minutes.
I then read the issues around the ESPN HD bars... Is that really an issue? Does he have to stretch the image each and every time?
He's going with Comcast and the DCT 3412 for HD (whatever the motorola box is with DVR capabilites and HDMI). Anyone have any experiences with this box?
Finally, for someone who just wants to watch TV and not worry about a lot of this stuff, what is the best way to get the TV broken in? When we talked this morning, he said there wasn't anything in the manual regarding image retention.
Please help!
Thanks.
MaliciousBraham 03-06-06, 04:41 PM Guys (and gals)...
My Dad pulled the trigger on the 1130HD. But after reading the advice/comments in this thread and making some general comments to him, he's now all freaked about regarding the TV.
Primarily, his concerns are around image retention and burn in. I told him we'll have to tweak the settings, etc. initally to prevent this from happened, but also commented on him having to vary his programs. So he no thinks he has to change the channels every 5 minutes.
I then read the issues around the ESPN HD bars... Is that really an issue? Does he have to stretch the image each and every time?
He's going with Comcast and the DCT 3412 for HD (whatever the motorola box is with DVR capabilites and HDMI). Anyone have any experiences with this box?
Finally, for someone who just wants to watch TV and not worry about a lot of this stuff, what is the best way to get the TV broken in? When we talked this morning, he said there wasn't anything in the manual regarding image retention.
Please help!
Thanks.
Adjust the contrast/brightness as low as you can stand it for about the first 100-200 hrs. having the correct settings is half the battle against burn-in and image retention. Also stretch 4:3 material (or material with bars) if watching for more than 2 hrs. If you follow those basic guidelines, you should have very very minimal problems with image retention and no burn in.
Once you're past the 100-200 hour mark, you should be able to do anything you want and have no problems at all. The phosphors are a little picky during the first 100-200 hrs. After that, you wont have any issues at all.
If you do see any image retention, dont freak out, just tune to a station without bars or logos and watch for a couple hours. That will take care of the retention. Remember, image retention is not permanent.
Lastly, remember that this site is filled with Audio/Video Freaks. We pay way more attention to little bitty things than most people do. Some things you read us freaking out about are really really small issues that a lot of people wont even be able to see unless its directly pointed out to them.
other little points you brought up:
ESPN bars definetly are a problem during the first 100 hrs of the set. In fact, those bars are practically the worst thing you can do to your set. You should stretch if they are going to be on for more than 75% of the time you are watching the channel.
the 6412 comcast box is ok. the settings in my signature link are for that box. But it has its problems. There is a huge thread in the recorder forum about the 6412 and its issues.
Best way to set up the tv... settings from dnice or my sig link, set tv to stretch all sd content. Then just pay attention for static images. It really doesnt take long to get past the 100hr mark, and when you do, you'll be much more happy in knowing your tv wont have any problems for a very very long time.
Jim Hef 03-06-06, 04:45 PM No, the manual isn't going to warn the owner of that potential. Print out the "break in" procedure from that thread and give it to him so that he follows along with that for the first 100 hours of use. He's aware of the potential problem, and should act accordingly. He couldn't have chosen a nicer plasma, so he should stop worrying about it and just enjoy it.
No, the manual isn't going to warn the owner of that potential. Print out the "break in" procedure from that thread and give it to him so that he follows along with that for the first 100 hours of use. He's aware of the potential problem, and should act accordingly. He couldn't have chosen a nicer plasma, so he should stop worrying about it and just enjoy it.
That's what I told him... Just enjoy the darn thing...
Is there a specific break in procedure for the 1130 that I should print out?
That's what I told him... Just enjoy the darn thing...
Is there a specific break in procedure for the 1130 that I should print out?
After reading many many times on this sticky and on the site in general I have finally committed to getting a PIO 43 this Friday(I am so excited and nervous at the same time). To be on the safe side I wanted if you fine people could just give me a pat on the back and tell me if I’m on the right path or not.
Here goes:
1. Having the DVD player and Cable box (Time Warner NYC) hooked up via HDMI to the Set.
2. Making sure that all material is stretched to fill the entire screen. Turning down the contrast and brightness below the standard for at least 200 hrs. I was going to use the settings for the 1130 I saw in this post earlier.
3. Possibly using the breakin disc to increase the speed of this period as well as having it done evenly and at night.
4. Vary viewing. Try not to stay on programs for more than two hrs at a time especially if logos are present.
5. And the last is more of a question. I am going to be giving a lesson on my plasma to my wife and our sitter about how to treat the new member of the family. What limits should I have about my sitter playing children programs during the day (noggin…Disney etc) Should I put her on a time limit, and ask her to choose other programming after a certain time or to turn of the tv? Should cartoons or animated programming be off limits even on DVD?
Just some thoughts. You guys have tons of knowledge and at times almost too much for mere mortals to handle…...LOL
Just a member about to take a hell of a plunge.
Thanks
drsiebling 03-06-06, 06:03 PM Hello Everybody!
After months and months of reading this forum I pulled the trigger on the PRO-1130HD this past Saturday. Delivery will take place on Friday.
A few questions:
There has been some talk that the 1130 will take a 1080p signal over the HDMI or, at the very least, over the component input and then down-convert it to the panel resolution. Any truth to this rumour?
Has anyone actually had their set ISF calibrated yet? What were the results like?
Has anoyone had any problems with their Media Box overheating? I'm going to have to locate mine in a pretty cramped shelving unit with only about an inch of clearance on all sides. Should I be concerned?
Thanks to everyone for all their help! It was down to the wire: the 1130 Vs. the NEC 50XR5. I'm thinking I made the right choice... especially at the killer price I paid.
My 1130 is about 1 month old and the message "starting up, please wait" has begun popping up when I turn on the unit and doesn't go away unless I unplug and plug the power to the media box. However after it sits off for several hours with it plugged in and turn it back on the message comes up again. I have tried everything from immediately unplugging and plugging it back in to leaving it unplugged over night.
I called Pioneer Tech support and the said it needs a possible firmware upgrade which is hard to believe as it was manufactured in January 2006!
If anyone else has any insite on how to fix this problem I would appreciated knowing.
CharlesG 03-06-06, 07:11 PM Guys (and gals)...
My Dad pulled the trigger on the 1130HD. But after reading the advice/comments in this thread and making some general comments to him, he's now all freaked about regarding the TV.
Primarily, his concerns are around image retention and burn in. I told him we'll have to tweak the settings, etc. initally to prevent this from happened, but also commented on him having to vary his programs. So he no thinks he has to change the channels every 5 minutes.
I then read the issues around the ESPN HD bars... Is that really an issue? Does he have to stretch the image each and every time?
He's going with Comcast and the DCT 3412 for HD (whatever the motorola box is with DVR capabilites and HDMI). Anyone have any experiences with this box?
Finally, for someone who just wants to watch TV and not worry about a lot of this stuff, what is the best way to get the TV broken in? When we talked this morning, he said there wasn't anything in the manual regarding image retention.
Please help!
Thanks.
Scrib:
I am breaking-in my brand new 1130HD plasma screen and simultaneously burning-in the electronics (to quickly fail any marginal components during my 30 day return period) by playing the 1130HD non-stop 24/7 for 7-10 days using an auto repeating 1.78:1 DVD 140 minute movie (Elizabethtown) via HDMI on Input 3 ----- with the 1130HD set using all the D-Nice recommended break-in settings including low Contrast and low brightness ---- and power set at SAVE2 ---- and the screen set at Zoom to assure a full screen. Room temperature is 55 degrees.
I am now in my 6th day. All is going very well. During this time I am watching my old clunker TV. No big deal. Have patience --- and you will watch this great plasma in tip-top condition for many many years !!!
Before starting this combined break-in/burn-in operation ---- I tested and verified every input and output of the 1130HD. All OK. I will re-test these I/Os after my 7-10 day test.
Good luck --- CharlesG
mgoblue02 03-06-06, 07:38 PM After reading this forum for weeks, I decided to purchase the PDP-1050 from Coza, Inc.--an authorized Pioneer dealer. Since I did a search on Coza when I was deciding where to buy, I thought I'd let future buyers know that Coza was courteous, professional and got the TV to me in CA in less than five days. The TV arrived in perfect condition.
I'll leave the price out--other than to say I was happy with the price I paid.
Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread for the help on all manner of topics.
After reading many many times on this sticky and on the site in general I have finally committed to getting a PIO 43 this Friday(I am so excited and nervous at the same time). To be on the safe side I wanted if you fine people could just give me a pat on the back and tell me if I’m on the right path or not.
Here goes:
1. Having the DVD player and Cable box (Time Warner NYC) hooked up via HDMI to the Set.
2. Making sure that all material is stretched to fill the entire screen. Turning down the contrast and brightness below the standard for at least 200 hrs. I was going to use the settings for the 1130 I saw in this post earlier.
3. Possibly using the breakin disc to increase the speed of this period as well as having it done evenly and at night.
4. Vary viewing. Try not to stay on programs for more than two hrs at a time especially if logos are present.
5. And the last is more of a question. I am going to be giving a lesson on my plasma to my wife and our sitter about how to treat the new member of the family. What limits should I have about my sitter playing children programs during the day (noggin…Disney etc) Should I put her on a time limit, and ask her to choose other programming after a certain time or to turn of the tv? Should cartoons or animated programming be off limits even on DVD?
Just some thoughts. You guys have tons of knowledge and at times almost too much for mere mortals to handle…...LOL
Just a member about to take a hell of a plunge.
Thanks
Maybe this is a really silly question but where is some of this from (information source)?
- Have contrast and brightness settings turned down for 200 hours. Is there an authoritative source? I have seen the break-in settings (and I basically am using them), but why 100 hours (or in this case 200 hours)???
- Try not to stay on a certain type of content for more that 2 hours. Why 2 hours, was this ever recommended by any manufacture?
- Not displaying children's cartoons??? Okay, again is there anything anywhere that says this content is not appropriate for this display?
My bottom line question is why so velvet gloved on this? I understand not showing a freeze frame for long periods of time or not showing content that has letter box or piller boxing for extended periods, but 2 hours and no cartoons? This seems to making the set out to be something that needs to be treated very gently to work well.
From what I understand about the state of the art for these displays is that none of this is needed and only severe freeze frame, repeatitive content poses a problem. Heck the 1130 in my local B&M looks fine after hours and hours of crappy content, and wild settings. Is there even any authority for needing a 100 hour break-in (I understand cars needs one for mechanical tolerences but after working for a hardware manufacturer for a number of years, I have seen no need for an special treatment period beyond factory burn-in. BTW, is factory burn-in counted as hours and how long is it and does it actually involve displaying images or jsut running the electronics?
I guess this really boils down to, is there an authoritative source for all this break in stuff? Where does 100 hours, 2 hours, HDMI only, or no cartoons all come from?
Thanks,
Geoff
kidziti 03-06-06, 11:07 PM Maybe this is a really silly question but where is some of this from (information source)?
...[snip]...
I guess this really boils down to, is there an authoritative source for all this break in stuff? Where does 100 hours, 2 hours, HDMI only, or no cartoons all come from?
Thanks,
Geoff
I'm looking at the smiley legend to see if there are any applauding smileys - I don't see any, but would put one here if there was one. I totally agree with Geoff that what I'm reading about plasma break-in borders on being clinically compulsive. Not only that, but leaving it on for hours on end displaying these special break-in DVDs - I think I read that somewhere - seems harmful - at least it would seem to decrease the life of the plasma for no proven reason.
westa6969 03-06-06, 11:19 PM After reading this forum for weeks, I decided to purchase the PDP-1050 from Coza, Inc.--an authorized Pioneer dealer. Since I did a search on Coza when I was deciding where to buy, I thought I'd let future buyers know that Coza was courteous, professional and got the TV to me in CA in less than five days. The TV arrived in perfect condition.
I'll leave the price out--other than to say I was happy with the price I paid.
Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread for the help on all manner of topics.
Don't forget you owe us a review beyond the Vendor testimonial? ;)
I'm getting my 1130 Friday and will turn the contrast down for the first 100 hrs.. Might as well be safe than sorry.. Funny thing is no where in the Pioneer manual does it say it needs to be broken in...
However, I was reading the Panasonic thread and there is a section in break-in for their displays... What's the difference? Strange...
What about the displays we see on display? Does the store break them in? It looks like they come out of the box in torch mode and stays like that through whatever material is on? I have never seen a Plasma with image retention at a store..
Viventis 03-07-06, 07:21 AM I'm looking at the smiley legend to see if there are any applauding smileys - I don't see any, but would put one here if there was one. I totally agree with Geoff that what I'm reading about plasma break-in borders on being clinically compulsive. Not only that, but leaving it on for hours on end displaying these special break-in DVDs - I think I read that somewhere - seems harmful - at least it would seem to decrease the life of the plasma for no proven reason.
I don't know about the science of it, but I fell asleep watching an ESPN HD game on my less than 2 week old 5060. When I awoke, the custom ESPN side bars and the white logo were on the display, and probably had been for several hours. Later that morning, while watching "Sunrise Earth" on Discovery HD, I noticed that the stripes from ESPN's side bars were clearly visible and so was the logo.
I played the SVCD break in disk available on the master break in thread to get out the retained images. The side bar stripes eventually faded but the ESPN logo was still visible after 5 hours. Fortunately, it was gone after 10 hours of playing that break in disk.
If I had any doubts about breaking in the plasma to prevent burn in, that experience removed them. If it takes almost 10 hours of using a break in disk to remove an after image created from just a few hours of viewing ESPN-HD in its non-HD mode, I have no doubt that burn in is a risk for newer sets.
Overscan settings with a DCT6412....who's done it on this set and how? I've noticed every channel has different overscan. For example, ESPN HD. The bars on one side are larger than on the other. If you use that as a model, it throws off all the other channels. ABC HD for instance. Black bars on the side might be 5" on one side and 6" on another. Use that as a model and everything else is messed up. If you use the Comcast guide from the 6412 as a model, forget it. Throws everything off to the right. There just doesn't seem to be a good model for overscan settings.
Agree with all of the above. Notes...
- I thought FOX was broadcast in 720p, anyone in know. Also is DTV HD in 1080i?
- I need to try more 480i to see what works best.
- The judder is rather annoying. It seems almost like it is picking the wrong frame division when it maps a single 24Hz frame to 72Hz (like the processor breaks in the middle of a 24Hz frame. Or is could be that the content already has 24-30Hz conversion and that the 72Hz refresh establishes a beat frequency.
You might want to read my earlier post about my experience with judder.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7218299#post7218299
I don't know about the science of it, but I fell asleep watching an ESPN HD game on my less than 2 week old 5060. When I awoke, the custom ESPN side bars and the white logo were on the display, and probably had been for several hours. Later that morning, while watching "Sunrise Earth" on Discovery HD, I noticed that the stripes from ESPN's side bars were clearly visible and so was the logo.
I played the SVCD break in disk available on the master break in thread to get out the retained images. The side bar stripes eventually faded but the ESPN logo was still visible after 5 hours. Fortunately, it was gone after 10 hours of playing that break in disk.
If I had any doubts about breaking in the plasma to prevent burn in, that experience removed them. If it takes almost 10 hours of using a break in disk to remove an after image created from just a few hours of viewing ESPN-HD in its non-HD mode, I have no doubt that burn in is a risk for newer sets.
I totally agree. And I also agree that burn in is also discussed a bit too much. I have saved and worked very hard for this TV set and I was just curious about settings and program content. I just wanted to know when individuals discussed varying your program content what that indeed meant. I know that although it is not mentioned in the PIO manual. Breaking in the plasma is wise to do. So I just wanted to know about television stations that have the super size logos on the screen such as Nickelodeon…noggin…and Disney that are played a lot during the day for my daughter. Like I stated before, I will be giving instructions to how NOT to treat a TV. And I wanted to see if I was on the right path.
That’s all.
Viventis 03-07-06, 11:21 AM Can someone verify that the Pioneer PDK-1013 Table Top Stand will work with the 5060? They look so much better than the stand that comes with the 5060, not to mention that they swivel. You can get one pretty cheap on Ebay.
You might want to read my earlier post about my experience with judder.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7218299#post7218299
I'm sometimes seeing horizontal interlaced lines on the edges of objects... more often during horizontal pans, I think... is this also a symptom of judder? Or perhaps just poor de-interlacing. Although I think I've even seen it on DVD sources (my player is 480p) as well as HDTV (1080i) which makes less sense. I could be wrong, I need to test more.
It's quite interesting that the tech support admitted they don't have powerful enough hardware to support the Pure Cinema feature (at least with 1080i sources)! That basically means no pulldown with 1080i? Or is some level of pulldown done with it set to off?
Agree with all of the above. Notes...
- I thought FOX was broadcast in 720p, anyone in know. Also is DTV HD in 1080i?
- I need to try more 480i to see what works best.
- The judder is rather annoying. It seems almost like it is picking the wrong frame division when it maps a single 24Hz frame to 72Hz (like the processor breaks in the middle of a 24Hz frame. Or is could be that the content already has 24-30Hz conversion and that the 72Hz refresh establishes a beat frequency.
Fox is indeed in 720p:
http://www.cnet.com/4520-7874_1-5119938-1.html
freddy23 03-07-06, 02:23 PM Can someone verify that the Pioneer PDK-1013 Table Top Stand will work with the 5060? They look so much better than the stand that comes with the 5060, not to mention that they swivel. You can get one pretty cheap on Ebay.
I have the 5060 with the PDK-1013 stand. Works perfectly.
Dale
ssabripo 03-07-06, 10:48 PM gheesh.....anyway of disabling the TVGuide from coming on automatically everytime I turn the TV on? :confused:
CharlesG 03-07-06, 11:43 PM I don't know about the science of it, but I fell asleep watching an ESPN HD game on my less than 2 week old 5060. When I awoke, the custom ESPN side bars and the white logo were on the display, and probably had been for several hours. Later that morning, while watching "Sunrise Earth" on Discovery HD, I noticed that the stripes from ESPN's side bars were clearly visible and so was the logo.
I played the SVCD break in disk available on the master break in thread to get out the retained images. The side bar stripes eventually faded but the ESPN logo was still visible after 5 hours. Fortunately, it was gone after 10 hours of playing that break in disk.
If I had any doubts about breaking in the plasma to prevent burn in, that experience removed them. If it takes almost 10 hours of using a break in disk to remove an after image created from just a few hours of viewing ESPN-HD in its non-HD mode, I have no doubt that burn in is a risk for newer sets.
Viventis:
Do not underestimate the need for a 100 hour plasma break-in followed by a 900 hour plasma precaution period. The exact Why and How are technically detailed by Panasonic and Pioneer in:
http://www.fcw.com/vendorsolutions/panasonicplasma.pdf
http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/specsformats/plasmaTVperformance.php
Since the need for plasma break-in is not particularly friendly for potential plasma TV customers --- I would guess that break-in is not widely advertised.
I did the 100 hour break-in using the Panasonic controlled conditions and the looping DVD movie technique described by Pioneer. Not a big deal. You may want to do the same.
P.S. -- I too go to sleep watching TV --- so I had to remove myself from screwing up my first 100 hours by using very controlled guaranteed conditions. The looping DVD movie per Pioneer, with settings based on Panasonic (I used D-Nice settings) is a solution.
Good luck --- CharlesG
Karl_in_Chicago 03-08-06, 01:07 AM gheesh.....anyway of disabling the TVGuide from coming on automatically everytime I turn the TV on? :confused:
The information you seek is in this thread.
Viventis:
Do not underestimate the need for a 100 hour plasma break-in followed by a 900 hour plasma precaution period. The exact Why and How are technically detailed by Panasonic and Pioneer in:
<snip>
Since the need for plasma break-in is not particularly friendly for potential plasma TV customers --- I would guess that break-in is not widely advertised.
I did the 100 hour break-in using the Panasonic controlled conditions and the looping DVD movie technique described by Pioneer. Not a big deal. You may want to do the same.
P.S. -- I too go to sleep watching TV --- so I had to remove myself from screwing up my first 100 hours by using very controlled guaranteed conditions. The looping DVD movie per Pioneer, with settings based on Panasonic (I used D-Nice settings) is a solution.
Good luck --- CharlesG
but... in the conclusion the IDC article clearly says...
"In particular, concerns about plasma lifetimes and image retention ("burn in") are half- truths that may have been legitimate concerns for early generations of plasma displays, but are non-issues with today's current generation products. Yes, plasmas may show signs of retention if still images are left on the display for very long periods of time (such as 24 hours or more), but even in this extreme example, the result is only temporary. Today's plasma TVs essentially heal themselves with subsequent viewing of regular TV material. As a result, more common scenarios of 5 to 10 minute (or even several hour) image pauses will not cause permanent damage."
The first article is "commissioned by" Panasonic and does presents some break-in recommendations for their 2004 panels (strangely label as "videophiles say it is best to do the following:" rather than Panasonic recommends, so it is still not clear where these recommendations actually came from). It seems to indicate that plasma need special treatment for the first 1000 hours of use (hmmm, that is 8 hours a day everyday for 4 months or 2 hours a day everyday for about a year and a half). I did look for ANY recommendation from Pioneer for special break in handling (outside the short blurb in the manual or a 1000 hour special treatment and could find none.
All that said I will concede that some reasonable treatment is purdent (and is indicated in the owners manual). In my case I am using the much reported break in settings from this thread, not leaving fixed images on the screen for extended periods and using full mode whenever I can. Beyond this I am just thoroughly enjoying my 1130, it looks wonderful and just has an outstanding picture. This thread is definitely a invaluable resource.
BTW, I am not trying to start an argument and really I do appreciate the links to the IDC test and the Panasonic article. It gives some background on the procedures folks are tossing around. In the end (unlike how I felt a few years ago) I feel that burn in under "normal" use is not really a worry for the current and future generation of panels (as the IDC article seems to back up).
lipcrkr 03-08-06, 02:26 AM but... in the conclusion the IDC article clearly says...
"In particular, concerns about plasma lifetimes and image retention ("burn in") are half- truths that may have been legitimate concerns for early generations of plasma displays, but are non-issues with today's current generation products. Yes, plasmas may show signs of retention if still images are left on the display for very long periods of time (such as 24 hours or more), but even in this extreme example, the result is only temporary. Today's plasma TVs essentially heal themselves with subsequent viewing of regular TV material. As a result, more common scenarios of 5 to 10 minute (or even several hour) image pauses will not cause permanent damage."
The first article is "commissioned by" Panasonic and does presents some break-in recommendations for their 2004 panels (strangely label as "videophiles say it is best to do the following:" rather than Panasonic recommends, so it is still not clear where these recommendations actually came from). It seems to indicate that plasma need special treatment for the first 1000 hours of use (hmmm, that is 8 hours a day everyday for 4 months or 2 hours a day everyday for about a year and a half). I did look for ANY recommendation from Pioneer for special break in handling (outside the short blurb in the manual or a 1000 hour special treatment and could find none.
All that said I will concede that some reasonable treatment is purdent (and is indicated in the owners manual). In my case I am using the much reported break in settings from this thread, not leaving fixed images on the screen for extended periods and using full mode whenever I can. Beyond this I am just thoroughly enjoying my 1130, it looks wonderful and just has an outstanding picture. This thread is definitely a invaluable resource.
BTW, I am not trying to start an argument and really I do appreciate the links to the IDC test and the Panasonic article. It gives some background on the procedures folks are tossing around. In the end (unlike how I felt a few years ago) I feel that burn in under "normal" use is not really a worry for the current and future generation of panels (as the IDC article seems to back up).
Part of that paragraph is wrong where it says signs of image retention may occur after a still image is on for a long time (24 hrs or more), at least for the Pioneer. If you go to BB and watch the vegas.com loop you will see IR on the 5060 of the red vegas.com arrow until the next screen.
Viventis 03-08-06, 07:47 AM gheesh.....anyway of disabling the TVGuide from coming on automatically everytime I turn the TV on? :confused:
To Disable the TV Guide from automatically coming on at startup:
TV Guide
Setup
General Defaults
Auto Guide "Off" (on left side of screen)
CharlesG 03-08-06, 09:06 AM but... in the conclusion the IDC article clearly says...
"In particular, concerns about plasma lifetimes and image retention ("burn in") are half- truths that may have been legitimate concerns for early generations of plasma displays, but are non-issues with today's current generation products. Yes, plasmas may show signs of retention if still images are left on the display for very long periods of time (such as 24 hours or more), but even in this extreme example, the result is only temporary. Today's plasma TVs essentially heal themselves with subsequent viewing of regular TV material. As a result, more common scenarios of 5 to 10 minute (or even several hour) image pauses will not cause permanent damage."
The first article is "commissioned by" Panasonic and does presents some break-in recommendations for their 2004 panels (strangely label as "videophiles say it is best to do the following:" rather than Panasonic recommends, so it is still not clear where these recommendations actually came from). It seems to indicate that plasma need special treatment for the first 1000 hours of use (hmmm, that is 8 hours a day everyday for 4 months or 2 hours a day everyday for about a year and a half). I did look for ANY recommendation from Pioneer for special break in handling (outside the short blurb in the manual or a 1000 hour special treatment and could find none.
All that said I will concede that some reasonable treatment is purdent (and is indicated in the owners manual). In my case I am using the much reported break in settings from this thread, not leaving fixed images on the screen for extended periods and using full mode whenever I can. Beyond this I am just thoroughly enjoying my 1130, it looks wonderful and just has an outstanding picture. This thread is definitely a invaluable resource.
BTW, I am not trying to start an argument and really I do appreciate the links to the IDC test and the Panasonic article. It gives some background on the procedures folks are tossing around. In the end (unlike how I felt a few years ago) I feel that burn in under "normal" use is not really a worry for the current and future generation of panels (as the IDC article seems to back up).
Hi Geoff:
Fortunately, we are fortunate to have and be jointly discussing a fantastic TV product.
As you did, I went through the references with a fine tooth comb and what you say about the references is 100% correct.
I work at the leading leading edge of semiconductor microchip development and design. BUT --- Away from the office and at home everything I do is indeed at the trailing edge of leading technology. I am VERY conservative -- with a flair.
I come from the school of "Nothing is as it seems" and "Where there is smoke, there may be fire".
As a result of these personal characteristics I decided on doing the 100 hour break-in under my controlled conditions to "protect" my new 1130HD from myself, wife, sons, daughters, and grandchildren. This set is very enticing.
Hence --- I put the set "off limits" from everyone while I looped a movie DVD for 100 hours. I was almost disowned by the family. I mentally feel good about it. I could be wrong.
If the set cannot withstand the 100 hour test --- then the 1130HD would immediately be history for me. It is great.
Again --- thanks for your reply ---- we are both on the same page --- and no matter what --- everyone with these Pioneer plasmas do indeed have a great TV.
Best Regards --- CharlesG
ssabripo 03-08-06, 10:53 AM The information you seek is in this thread.
Holy Cow Karl....you are profetic!
viventis hadn't even posted the answer (http://avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7266455&&#post7266455) and you saw this coming.... :p :D
Sorry about the dumb question, but this thread has over 3000 entries, and I can't seem to find what is obviously here someplace.
What settings do you recommend for the Pio 5060? (I've found "break-in" settings, but what about permanent settings?) Thanx!
elvisahmed 03-08-06, 11:10 AM Has anyone connected their 4360/5060 to theCable Box using the Firewire. I have Scientific Atlanta 3250HD (Rogers is the Cable Provider here up in Canada) and it has two 6 Pin Firewire Ports on the back.
I wanted to know if anyone has expermineted with this as the manual says the Firwire will only work with D-VHS. I want to know if there is anyway to use this to connect my HD Cable box to the TV as I will have another Spare HDMI port :)
D-Nice Any tips or can I only use this port for Recording purpose only?
With the MR on Standby and set to Input1
[EDIT]
You should see a semi transparent green screen, scroll through the pages to find the hour meter-
Note Be careful in there dont change any settings unless you really know what you are doing!
is this the same method to view the hour meter on an 1130? just put the MR on standby and press input1 from the remot? thats it?
Hi Geoff:
Again --- thanks for your reply ---- we are both on the same page --- and no matter what --- everyone with these Pioneer plasmas do indeed have a great TV.
Best Regards --- CharlesG
That is the understatement of the day. Just hanging out doing some work last night while watching various off the air HD content... Wow, I can't help but still be completely impressed with this set. I suspect my settings are not perfect but who could tell, the OTA HD content looks outstanding.
So after all this talk of break-in and burn-in. I have to say for anyone interested in a fantastic display, this IS one fantastic display. The only issue I have is the judder with ADV cinema mode (which I personally am guessing is some interaction with content that is not really 24 FPS as it sure looks like a beat frequency and the behavior changes if you go in and out of ADV mode, but that is just my wild guess). I can run DVD in about 5 other mode combinations which look pretty darn impressive so this is off little import (but it would be nice to figure out what is going on).
So in the end it is the most I have spent on a TV (by 2x) and am very happy.
The Hornet 03-08-06, 01:51 PM Ok folks, I am ready to purchase a Plasma TV in the 42 or 43 inch size. I had all but made up my mind to get the Panasonic TH-42PX60 but I personally don't like the way the outside looks....mostly silver, and some black. The price is right, and the features it has are good also, except I would like PIP, but that is a feature that I have rarely used on another CRT TV I currently have.
I very much like the slick nearly all black looks of the -4361- that BB has in it's stores, but am not ready to pay the extra $1000 to $1500 that they want for it versus the Panny. What can I do...or get for the nearly same price in the Pioneer brand..anything? I have been looking around the 'net, but I am not a Pioneer Plasma expert, or a Panny expert either, but the Panny's I know a LOT more about.
Can you folks help me make up my mind, or at least help me clear it up a bit. The looks of this
http://www.bruzzi.ws/Attachs/img-PX60U.jpg
versus this
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pio/pe/images/portal/cit_3442/277312046PDP4360HD_skier_stn.jpg
There is just no comparison.
Mightyburner 03-08-06, 02:04 PM :confused: My self imposed deadline has arrived. After lurking for much too long I've finally decided to purchase a Pioneer plasma. I can either get the 4360 plus a 4 year extended warranty from a forum sponsor or the Elite 930 with the mfgs warranty and an extra year from AMEX for $500 more than the 4360 deal. Arrgh! Deciding on my Anthem AVM30 and Paradigm speakers was a breeze compared to this. This is no longer a hobby, it's downright painful (almost like my first marriage,,not that bad but you get my point).
Byron Walter 03-08-06, 02:10 PM Why not just check with some of the sponsors like TVA or Cleveland Plasma for a 4360 since its the same set as the 4361 you saw at BB. I'm in a similar pickle but don't have a choice on where to get my next set. My BB Zenith plasma died and I have to pick out a replacement set. Since the Zen is discontinued I've narrowed the choice down to either the 50 inch 60u Panny or the Pio 5061. But that price on the 5061 is nasty. Me thinks, however, BB will knock a few $$$ of the Pio... bu still gotta make a choice.
At least you can shop around. Happy hunting.
scottb8888 03-08-06, 02:20 PM I had been in the same quandry you all speak of. I was torn between LCA and PLasma. But every time I looked at the pictures, I just liked the 4361. I think I made the right decision.
:confused: My self imposed deadline has arrived. After lurking for much too long I've finally decided to purchase a Pioneer plasma. I can either get the 4360 plus a 4 year extended warranty from a forum sponsor or the Elite 930 with the mfgs warranty and an extra year from AMEX for $500 more than the 4360 deal. Arrgh! Deciding on my Anthem AVM30 and Paradigm speakers was a breeze compared to this. This is no longer a hobby, it's downright painful (almost like my first marriage,,not that bad but you get my point).
I would go with the Elite. While the 5060/4360 are great plasmas, you should not underestimate the PQ adjustments available only on the Elites.
I am now addicted to "Pure" mode and use it for both Cable Box and DVD viewing - even though I have to adjust settings each time I switch (Pure is a universal mode not allowing individual adjustment for each input).
I'm very glad I spent the extra few dollars for the Elite.
IMHO.
LIY
Karl_in_Chicago 03-08-06, 04:09 PM Holy Cow Karl....you are profetic!
viventis hadn't even posted the answer (http://avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7266455&&#post7266455) and you saw this coming.... :p :D
LOL, well I was guessing that maybe he could have scrolled back a page or 2 for when I posted the same info (or searched) but what the hey, it all came out in the wash anyway. :) I've got to go now, Jay just called for my screen test as the new Karnak. :p
mefromfl 03-08-06, 07:37 PM Can someone give me a good settings for the 4360 after break-in? I'm getting small squares when there is fast movements, i can't tell if it's the cabeling or D*, but i just want to rule out it's not my setting. I would appreciate if someone can give me this setting. Thank you in advance.
CHolleman 03-09-06, 08:12 AM when i came down stairs this morning, i looked over at the panel and MR like i have since i got it and noticed what looked like the standby light was off on the panel. when i got closer, i could see that it wasn't off, but very dim. i tapped on the LED lightly and it would flicker a bit and come back, but still be dim. i turned the TV on and everything works fine, it just seems the standby LED is going out. not really a big deal, but kind of annoying after $3000 and 1 month of use. i guess from now on, i'll turn off the panel when i turn off the tv. i really wish that when you turned OFF the tv it really turned OFF instead of going into standby. not really a big enough of a concern for a return though...
Ok folks, I am ready to purchase a Plasma TV in the 42 or 43 inch size. I had all but made up my mind to get the Panasonic TH-42PX60 but I personally don't like the way the outside looks....mostly silver, and some black. The price is right, and the features it has are good also, except I would like PIP, but that is a feature that I have rarely used on another CRT TV I currently have.
I very much like the slick nearly all black looks of the -4361- that BB has in it's stores, but am not ready to pay the extra $1000 to $1500 that they want for it versus the Panny. What can I do...or get for the nearly same price in the Pioneer brand..anything? I have been looking around the 'net, but I am not a Pioneer Plasma expert, or a Panny expert either, but the Panny's I know a LOT more about.
I have been following the new Panasonic thread. The new Panasonics look impressive and MAY have caught up in terms of PQ with the latest Pioneers but it is going to difficult to make it much better. At least on paper they have added features that make it more comparable to the latest Pioneers like a better video processor, brighter picture, HD scaling, 2 HDMI inputs, black filter (similar to the Pioneer Crystal emissive layer). However the Panasonic 42PX600 is more comparable to the Pioneer 4360/4361 and those prices will be a lot closer. If you don't need those features it is a better deal to buy the 42PX60.
I guess the one thing you have to ask yourself is whether you want to buy the Pioneer, that has a proven performance record and glowing reviews by both pro reviewers and owners or the brand new, uproven Panasonic. The Panasonics have a good reputation but I would never buy something as expensive as this sight unseen without having some reputable pro reviews, or being able to see the unit and make comparisons myself. If you can't do either, at least make sure you buy from a reputable dealer that has a full 30 day money-back return policy. Also every plasma has it's quirks, including the Pioneer, just make sure you can live with them.
Also check out, http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7274331#post7274331
Sorry about the dumb question, but this thread has over 3000 entries, and I can't seem to find what is obviously here someplace.
What settings do you recommend for the Pio 5060? (I've found "break-in" settings, but what about permanent settings?) Thanx!
Help!! :eek:
CHolleman 03-09-06, 10:59 AM Help!! :eek:
your individual settings are going to vary from set to set, source to source and eye to eye. no one's going to be able to provide any accurate information regarding your permanent settings. all they can do it provide break in or baseline settings. what i did was use D-nice's break in settings as a baseline, and used my own eye as well as the THX optimizer found on my StarWars ATOC DVD. not the best by any means, but i had it laying around. i feel that i was able to better set the contrast and brightness using it than my eyes. some people recommend AVIA or DVE calibration DVD'S but that will only truly calibrate your DVD player as it's a different source than a HD or SD signal. that being said, some people use the disc, then transfer the settings to the TV input and tweak from there. that's what i did. i do plan on getting an ISF calibration later, but only when i get the surround setup so the calibrator can do both audio and video. YMMV.
CHolleman 03-09-06, 11:01 AM when i came down stairs this morning, i looked over at the panel and MR like i have since i got it and noticed what looked like the standby light was off on the panel. when i got closer, i could see that it wasn't off, but very dim. i tapped on the LED lightly and it would flicker a bit and come back, but still be dim. i turned the TV on and everything works fine, it just seems the standby LED is going out. not really a big deal, but kind of annoying after $3000 and 1 month of use. i guess from now on, i'll turn off the panel when i turn off the tv. i really wish that when you turned OFF the tv it really turned OFF instead of going into standby. not really a big enough of a concern for a return though...
does anyone know if Pioneer would send someone out to fix the LED? it's such a small issue i know, but after only a month, i'd like to have it perfect.
TommmyJ 03-09-06, 11:20 AM not as an insult to anyone, but i don't understand the hoopla over a dead pixel. there are thousands upon thousands of pixels on any given PDP. nothing man made is ever going to be perfect. I understand that when you pay thousands of dollars for a PDP, you expect perfection, but what are you gonna do? send it back? and if the new one has problems, where does it stop? 3,4,5 panels? just be happy with what you have. sorry if i pissed anyone off
This was your response to me and others who had concerns over stuck/dead pixels(which can actually effect picture quality). A dim LED is just cosmetics.
CHolleman 03-09-06, 11:24 AM This was your response to me and others who had concerns over stuck/dead pixels(which can actually effect picture quality). A dim LED is just cosmetics.
i knew i would get this response. but you actually have to search for your dead pixel on the screen. i have to see the flickering LED when i'm not using the TV. put that in your pipe and smoke it.
TommmyJ 03-09-06, 11:33 AM Not my first dead pixel, it was very noticeable. Myself as well as others viewing the tv did not have to search for it as it jumped right out at you.
CHolleman 03-09-06, 11:46 AM Not my first dead pixel, it was very noticeable. Myself as well as others viewing the tv did not have to search for it as it jumped right out at you.
a direct contradiction to:
I thought my 4360 was free of stuck pixels but after viewing the blue, green and red screens on DVE I discovered one stuck pixel on blue only. It is on the very far left side of the screen and really can't be seen at viewing distance. It is not as bad as the first one I had delivered because the first 4360's burnt pixel was totally dead and appeared on white or lighter screens and could be seen from viewing distance. I am starting to think that these 4360's and 5060's are more prone to stuck pixels because the one I saw at Best buy had one, my first 4360 that was delivered had one and now my current 4360 has one. Is it likely that this pixel that does not work on blue will burn out or stop functioning entirely? Thanks
and
I agree that I shouldn't have even looked at the colored screens on DVE but others were spotting stuck pixels on certain colors only so I checked mine and sure enough. Like I said it can't be seen at my viewing distance so I am going to forget about it and keep enjoying it. I am getting close to the 200hr mark and looks better all of the time
so which statement is correct???
and before you get to it:
if the pixel noticeabley detracted from viewing (extremely noticeable) or a cluster of them went out, that's one thing, but to nit pick over a pixel you can't even see is a waste of time imo.
TommmyJ 03-09-06, 12:03 PM Look, I am on my second 4360. The first one had a completely dead pixel in the middle of the screen that could be easily be seen at my viewing distance of around 11 feet and did to quote you "detract from my viewing". That first 4360 was exchanged. My second 4360 has a stuck pixel that only shows up black on a blue screen and cannot be seen from my viewing distance. The second quotation is not a direct contradiction because if you read the second quotation more thoroughly you will see where I talked about my first 4360 having a completely dead pixel that was very noticeable. I said that I agreed with you before in your third quotation to end the debate and get on with things so it wouldn't lead to what is happening right now with you. So I also agree now that your problem with your LED is a legitimate problem as are sets with dead/stuck pixels if the owner believes them to be.
ssabripo 03-09-06, 01:34 PM I'm extremely happy with my set, but I had those two dead pixesl I mentioned....anyways, the repair guy from tweeter came to inspect, and said that it will need to be replaced! :o
He said the MR and everything will have to be replaced! crud....know I have to reset everything again, and have to do the whole burnin AGAIN! :(
Toastermax 03-09-06, 02:19 PM is the Polaroid PLA-4260 the same set as the 4360 Pioneer?? someone told me that it was, can anyone confirm this?
The Hornet 03-09-06, 09:27 PM I have been following the new Panasonic thread. The new Panasonics look impressive and MAY have caught up in terms of PQ with the latest Pioneers but it is going to difficult to make it much better. At least on paper they have added features that make it more comparable to the latest Pioneers like a better video processor, brighter picture, HD scaling, 2 HDMI inputs, black filter (similar to the Pioneer Crystal emissive layer). However the Panasonic 42PX600 is more comparable to the Pioneer 4360/4361 and those prices will be a lot closer. If you don't need those features it is a better deal to buy the 42PX60.
I guess the one thing you have to ask yourself is whether you want to buy the Pioneer, that has a proven performance record and glowing reviews by both pro reviewers and owners or the brand new, uproven Panasonic. The Panasonics have a good reputation but I would never buy something as expensive as this sight unseen without having some reputable pro reviews, or being able to see the unit and make comparisons myself. If you can't do either, at least make sure you buy from a reputable dealer that has a full 30 day money-back return policy. Also every plasma has it's quirks, including the Pioneer, just make sure you can live with them.
Also check out, http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7274331#post7274331
Thanks mhfnet.
I do have a lot of thinking and checking things out. The media box is something new to me, but it does seem to make sense to hook up all your equipment to that instead of going to the back TV itself.
You are correct that I have not even seen the new Panny as of yet, however given their previous similar sized TV's reputaion, I would only be presuming that this model would be as good as the last. The 4360 is just plain good looking, and I personally go a lot on looks, from the outside to the inside, the 4360 has the Panny beat IMHO hands down. Now, I have to convince the Wife that I need another $1000.
The bad thing fellows about being married... and you never heard me say this, someone got on my computer and wrote this is: Your significant other, if they get mad enough at you, can hold certain "favors" from you for an indefinant period, if you GUYS know what I mean.
drsiebling 03-09-06, 11:54 PM Hello Everybody!
Tomorrow is the big day for the delivery on my 1130! I'm very excited and would like to thank everyone here for the great info and advice on set-up!
So, do you think I'm going to be disappointed in moving from a 55" ISF calibrated Mitsubishi Diamond RPTV to a 50" Pioneer Elite 1130? Signs point to no... I just hope the 5" size difference isn't a problem...
-Ben
I'm sure its on these forums, I've been searching for the past 30 minutes and can't find out how to check the hour usage on my 1130. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Viventis 03-10-06, 07:23 AM I'm sure its on these forums, I've been searching for the past 30 minutes and can't find out how to check the hour usage on my 1130. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Stop searching; you won't find your answer here. Forum rules prohibit the posting of service menu codes. Someone may be willing to send them to you via personal message. Unfortunately, I don't have the code for the 1130 or I would help. I just didn't want you to spend a lot of time in vain.
jstorerj 03-10-06, 09:07 AM The bad thing fellows about being married... and you never heard me say this, someone got on my computer and wrote this is: Your significant other, if they get mad enough at you, can hold certain "favors" from you for an indefinant period, if you GUYS know what I mean.
Hey Hornet - This is the Queen Bee (channeling one of your "buddies")... you're never getting that tv now...
Viventis 03-10-06, 09:33 AM I purchased a PDK-1013 stand (from a 1130 Elite owner) on Ebay to use with my 5060. It arrived yesterday in good condition but without the instruction manual enclosed. I could not find the manual on the Pioneer site for the stand. Unfortunately, it does not appear intuitively obvious how the smaller two black tubes integrate with the base.
Could anyone email the manual to me, point me to a site where I can download one (free if possible), or give me guidance on how to set this up. I don't want to risk my new 5060 on a guess.
Hello Everybody!
Tomorrow is the big day for the delivery on my 1130! I'm very excited and would like to thank everyone here for the great info and advice on set-up!
So, do you think I'm going to be disappointed in moving from a 55" ISF calibrated Mitsubishi Diamond RPTV to a 50" Pioneer Elite 1130? Signs point to no... I just hope the 5" size difference isn't a problem...
-Ben
Congrats Ben!
If it helps I replaced a Hitachi 55HDT51 55" plasma with an 1130. I had the same worries about losing 5" but once you see the picture on the 1130 you forget real fast. With my 55HDT51 I spent more time criticizing the plasma induced flaws in the picture than watching it. With my 1130 I just enjoy watching it, which is the best compliment I can pay to this fine plasma.
I posted some information on my settings here that you might try out.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7178871#post7178871
I'm sure its on these forums, I've been searching for the past 30 minutes and can't find out how to check the hour usage on my 1130. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Other threads have linked to Bruzzi's site, so I think this is ok:
http://www.bruzzi.ws/plasma-faq/showthread.php?t=147
My 1130 is about 1 month old and the message "starting up, please wait" has begun popping up when I turn on the unit and doesn't go away unless I unplug and plug the power to the media box. However after it sits off for several hours with it plugged in and turn it back on the message comes up again. I have tried everything from immediately unplugging and plugging it back in to leaving it unplugged over night.
I called Pioneer Tech support and the said it needs a possible firmware upgrade which is hard to believe as it was manufactured in January 2006!
If anyone else has any insite on how to fix this problem I would appreciated knowing.
UPDATE: I found out from Pioneer that they got a rash of calls in the past couple of weeks from owners in the Seattle that have this problem and it is due to a bug that occurs when the TVguide EPG is updated in this area :confused:. I was told Pioneer is working on a firmware upgrade to fix the problem :) .
leftbank 03-10-06, 09:55 AM could some pls pm me the procedure to check usage time on a pdp 4360hd?
thanks in advance
jstorerj 03-10-06, 10:29 AM could some pls pm me the procedure to check usage time on a pdp 4360hd?
thanks in advance
Ditto, pls (2nd request)
Jake NYC 03-10-06, 10:40 AM I purchased a PDK-1013 stand (from a 1130 Elite owner) on Ebay to use with my 5060. It arrived yesterday in good condition but without the instruction manual enclosed. I could not find the manual on the Pioneer site for the stand. Unfortunately, it does not appear intuitively obvious how the smaller two black tubes integrate with the base.
Could anyone email the manual to me, point me to a site where I can download one (free if possible), or give me guidance on how to set this up. I don't want to risk my new 5060 on a guess.
If you're desperate, looks like you can by the service manual for the pdk-1013 from the pioneer website for $13.78.....
http://parts.pioneerelectronics.com/part.asp?productNum=ARP3278
I purchased a PDK-1013 stand (from a 1130 Elite owner) on Ebay to use with my 5060. It arrived yesterday in good condition but without the instruction manual enclosed. I could not find the manual on the Pioneer site for the stand. Unfortunately, it does not appear intuitively obvious how the smaller two black tubes integrate with the base.You've probably figured this out already, but the two "prongs" on the stand fit into the holes on the bottom of the plasma. Just lift it (with two people) onto the stand, placing the prongs into the holes, and then install the bolts to hold the plasma in place. It's very straightforward.
TommmyJ 03-10-06, 11:15 AM Viventis, I found the instructions online for the PDK-TS12 that I bought for my 4360. It is one of the correct Pioneer stands for the 4360 or 5060. It should be similar to the PDK-1013.
http://www.gloucesterhifi.co.uk/site/scripts/downloads.php
TommmyJ 03-10-06, 11:36 AM There is a PDK-TS05 new in a box #5875258233 on a well known auction site. It has a buy now of $20.00 US and an hour remaining. I paid close to $200.00 CDN for mine here in Canada and the regular price was around $300.00 CDN. The PDK-TS05 looks the same to me as the PDK-TS12 and the dimensions are the same but I am not sure if it is identical. It would be a good deal for anyone looking for a Pioneer stand for a 4360 or 5060. I guess I got hosed on mine. I have no connection to the auction, I just thought I would mention it.
Viventis 03-10-06, 11:56 AM Viventis, I found the instructions online for the PDK-TS12 that I bought for my 4360. It is one of the correct Pioneer stands for the 4360 or 5060. It should be similar to the PDK-1013.
http://www.gloucesterhifi.co.uk/site/scripts/downloads.php
It looks like these instructions will do the trick! Thanks!
Viventis 03-10-06, 12:02 PM You've probably figured this out already, but the two "prongs" on the stand fit into the holes on the bottom of the plasma. Just lift it (with two people) onto the stand, placing the prongs into the holes, and then install the bolts to hold the plasma in place. It's very straightforward.
Thanks for the reply. To be honest, I am not sure how long it would have taken me to figure out that the 5060 had built in slots/holes to accomodate a stand made for a totally different model. The stand that comes with the 5060 installs in a totally different manner. The tv hangs on bolts attached to long posts similar to the way the tv would hang on a wall mount.
Special thanks to yojimbo1 who was kind enough to PM me with his phone number to talk it out. This is one example of why this forum is so great.
TommmyJ 03-10-06, 12:11 PM You are welcome for the link to the instructions. I am glad I could be of some help to you.
Karl_in_Chicago 03-10-06, 01:10 PM You've probably figured this out already, but the two "prongs" on the stand fit into the holes on the bottom of the plasma. Just lift it (with two people) onto the stand, placing the prongs into the holes, and then install the bolts to hold the plasma in place. It's very straightforward.
Bah, you don't need 2 people to do that. I hauled the still-palletized box from the back porch down the stairs into my basement, unpacked it, and mounted it all by myself. And that was 2 weeks after an angioplasty for multiple heart attacks. Of course I DID tell my wife a "buddy" came over and helped me out - I'm not TOTALLY stupid. :p
Karl_in_Chicago 03-10-06, 01:16 PM Anybody mount one of these onto a Salamander Designs Synergy furniture system? I'm looking at some (better than what I currently have) furniture to re-rack my components and serve as a stand for my 1130. I kind of like the look and flexibility of the Salamander Synergy Triple and the option of having the optional plasma mount. For various reasons I don't want to wall mount the unit in the current location but need to elevate it quite a bit more than the Pio pedestal does above the credenza top to clear my rather large center channel (Mirage MC-2). Just curious if anyone here has experience with their Pio PDP (or other unit) and mounting to a stand affixed to the furniture vs. a wallmount. TIA.
Viventis 03-10-06, 02:26 PM Bah, you don't need 2 people to do that. I hauled the still-palletized box from the back porch down the stairs into my basement, unpacked it, and mounted it all by myself. And that was 2 weeks after an angioplasty for multiple heart attacks. Of course I DID tell my wife a "buddy" came over and helped me out - I'm not TOTALLY stupid. :p
I would like the name of your cardiologist! And if I were you, I'd keep his number on my speed dial. I helped the mover bring my 5060 big box into the house. That thing wieghs a ton, especially with the pallet attached.
Anybody mount one of these onto a Salamander Designs Synergy furniture system?
Not yet, but I will in a couple weeks. I'll be taking delivery of my 1130 (more like picking it up) on Monday and will be installing it on black/silver Triple 20 to match my component rack. There's a chance that I'll use a Twin 20, but I think that the 1130 will look too big since the Synergy rack will be the same width as the plasma. I personally love the Synergy line, not only for it's flexibility (big plus) but also for it's looks and construction. It costs a small fortune, but well worth it, IMO.
drsiebling 03-10-06, 02:45 PM I'm in the midst of setting up my 1130 right now and have a quick question:
Will the 1130 automatically upscale a 480i image over component, or do I need to tell the TV to do so? I assume the media box will also de-interlace the image as well...
D-Nice: YOur break-in settings are great! Thanks for all the great tips!
-Ben
...sorry guys:
Been researching what plasmas accpet inputs from PCs over DVI and/or HDMI and now its the turn for the Pioneer 5060HD!
Anybody tried feeding a 1280x768p signal via a PC, through HDMI?
:)
Thank you.
RoubaixPro 03-10-06, 03:17 PM Hi Karl_in_Chicago,
I currently have a Salamander Synergy Twin 30 in maple/aluminium finish. I just ordered a Pioneer 1130HD and it should arrive in about 4 weeks. I will be attaching the 1130 using the Salamander TV mount because I need about 9" below the TV for my center channel speaker. I will take photos and post them when its all set up.
The Hornet 03-10-06, 03:27 PM Hey Hornet - This is the Queen Bee (channeling one of your "buddies")... you're never getting that tv now...
I am not concerned about getting the TV. It's getting anything AFTER that, that concerns me! :eek:
...sorry guys:
Been researching what plasmas accpet inputs from PCs over DVI and/or HDMI and now its the turn for the Pioneer 5060HD!
Anybody tried feeding a 1280x768p signal via a PC, through HDMI?
:)
Thank you.
I have the 1130, and Its a good bet that the 5060 is similar. You can do 1280x720 via hdmi, but not 1280x768. You can do 1280x768 via VGA. Both of these options look good, the VGA looks a little better, but may have some motion issues.
-Drew
I have the 1130, and Its a good bet that the 5060 is similar. You can do 1280x720 via hdmi, but not 1280x768. You can do 1280x768 via VGA. Both of these options look good, the VGA looks a little better, but may have some motion issues.
-Drew
ahhhhh :( sigh. Why there can't be a perfect panel! And why not 1280x768 over HDMI!
:( sigh
The Hornet 03-10-06, 06:29 PM Ok folks,
Can someone tell me, seeings my memory is not what it used to be. On the back of the 4360, how many wires will be coming down from the displays main body to the media center box...Is it only the one?, unlike the number of wires that is coming down from the display in this picture.
http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/502/medium/7425457IMG_0202.JPG
I want as few of wires literally showing as possible, and thought there was only the one power cord that's going to the media center. The rest will be hidden inside the TV stand/cabinet.
Ok folks,
Can someone tell me, seeings my memory is not what it used to be. On the back of the 4360, how many wires will be coming down from the displays main body to the media center box...Is it only the one?, unlike the number of wires that is coming down from the display in this picture.
http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/502/medium/7425457IMG_0202.JPG
I want as few of wires literally showing as possible, and thought there was only the one power cord that's going to the media center. The rest will be hidden inside the TV stand/cabinet.
There is one double cable with 2 connecttors on it that goes to the media box. And there is a power cord from the panel that goes into a power socket
Karl_in_Chicago 03-10-06, 08:18 PM Ok folks,
Can someone tell me, seeings my memory is not what it used to be. On the back of the 4360, how many wires will be coming down from the displays main body to the media center box...Is it only the one?, unlike the number of wires that is coming down from the display in this picture.
I want as few of wires literally showing as possible, and thought there was only the one power cord that's going to the media center. The rest will be hidden inside the TV stand/cabinet.
There will be only one cable coming down from the PDP to the MR . . . but leaving the answer that specific would be like the IBM of old - giving you an answer to your exact question but being utterly useless to the intent of the question. There are TWO cables from the PDP (but only 2, which is way cool compared to most PDP's). One of the cables is the proprietary Pio spec that connects the PDP to the MR and the other is the PDP power cable which needs an outlet (standard 110). Depending on how you provision the power for the PDP the power cable could be concealed. Scan this thread (and forum) for other posts about how to provision power outlets for concealed PDP power cables (popular option being a 'clock' outlet).
Karl_in_Chicago 03-10-06, 08:26 PM I would like the name of your cardiologist! And if I were you, I'd keep his number on my speed dial. I helped the mover bring my 5060 big box into the house. That thing wieghs a ton, especially with the pallet attached.
LOL, come on, the whole unit's shipping weight is like, what, 165 lbs (IIRC)? After being cooped up in the hospital on nonfat-lowsodium everything, being treated like a baby, and then seeing my long awaited (about 3 months) 1130 arrive there was just no way in heck I was going to wait around for somebody to help me do something I knew I could do myself. I'll grant that more prudent (AKA "smarter" :) ) people would engage the help of a friend to relocate the shipping carton but the actual mounting of the PDP onto the stand can be done by anybody. The PDP only weighs ~ 80 lbs and the stand engages smooth as silk (N.B. - I'm an ardent instruction reader and read the 1130's booklet cover to cover twice before assembly). And if you are ever in the Chicago area and need a good cardiologist I wholeheartedly (harharhar) recommend Dr. Ian Cohen - in my case a real lifesaver.
Karl_in_Chicago 03-10-06, 08:33 PM Not yet, but I will in a couple weeks. I'll be taking delivery of my 1130 (more like picking it up) on Monday and will be installing it on black/silver Triple 20 to match my component rack. There's a chance that I'll use a Twin 20, but I think that the 1130 will look too big since the Synergy rack will be the same width as the plasma. I personally love the Synergy line, not only for it's flexibility (big plus) but also for it's looks and construction. It costs a small fortune, but well worth it, IMO.
Thanks for the feedback mml7. I have to agree that the 50" display would overwhelm the Twin but I think would look great on the the Triple. One thing I'm finding difficult to assess is the finish. I had initially been considering the Studiotech units and ordered the sample wood blocks ($5 shipped, a no brainer) to have a better look. Glad I did as I quickly dismissed their black and was a little disappointed in their rosewood (real lack of grain). I guess since Salamander is sold thru dealers I may have the ability to see the various wood finishes in person but it's so hit & miss as to what dealers have which finishes available to view (if any). I wish Salamander also offered a reasonably priced "swatch" program to help preview the possibilities. From the online pic's I'm waffling between walnut and cherry (though would embrace a quality piano black in a heartbeat).
Karl_in_Chicago 03-10-06, 08:37 PM I'm in the midst of setting up my 1130 right now and have a quick question:
Will the 1130 automatically upscale a 480i image over component, or do I need to tell the TV to do so? I assume the media box will also de-interlace the image as well...
D-Nice: YOur break-in settings are great! Thanks for all the great tips!
-Ben
Ben, the 1130 will automagically handle all of the upscaling/de-interlacing for you. I transmit native 480i from my Pio 79avi DVD player to the 1130 and it looks awesome (depending on the source material, of course) and there's no special instructions required to tell the plasma to do anything. I'm doing that over HDMI but it will do the same for a 480i component signal as well.
Karl_in_Chicago 03-10-06, 08:45 PM Hi Karl_in_Chicago,
I currently have a Salamander Synergy Twin 30 in maple/aluminium finish. I just ordered a Pioneer 1130HD and it should arrive in about 4 weeks. I will be attaching the 1130 using the Salamander TV mount because I need about 9" below the TV for my center channel speaker. I will take photos and post them when its all set up.
Thanks RoubaixPro! Sounds like you and I have pretty much the same requirements for center channel clearance, though I think I need more like a foot. Did you order the expansion kit for the flat panel mount? It's not clear to me from the catalog or online configurator what the clearance ranges are with the flat panel mount and the description of the expansion kit leaves me a bit confused. I imagine a visit to a dealer might help but I'm stubborn/proud/stupid and like to have as good an understanding of how something works as I can before visiting salespeople. I look forward to seeing your pictures.
The Hornet 03-10-06, 09:07 PM There will be only one cable coming down from the PDP to the MR . . . but leaving the answer that specific would be like the IBM of old - giving you an answer to your exact question but being utterly useless to the intent of the question. There are TWO cables from the PDP (but only 2, which is way cool compared to most PDP's). One of the cables is the proprietary Pio spec that connects the PDP to the MR and the other is the PDP power cable which needs an outlet (standard 110). Depending on how you provision the power for the PDP the power cable could be concealed. Scan this thread (and forum) for other posts about how to provision power outlets for concealed PDP power cables (popular option being a 'clock' outlet).
baimo and Karl-in-Chicago. Thanks very much for the answer to this. As you statd Karl. I would like to conceal it as much as possible from site. All the rest of the cords should be able to be hidden in the cabinet.
Much thanks to all of you folks for the info, but I'm sure I will have more questions in the future.
drsiebling 03-10-06, 09:15 PM Ben, the 1130 will automagically handle all of the upscaling/de-interlacing for you. I transmit native 480i from my Pio 79avi DVD player to the 1130 and it looks awesome (depending on the source material, of course) and there's no special instructions required to tell the plasma to do anything. I'm doing that over HDMI but it will do the same for a 480i component signal as well.
Karl,
Thanks for the info... The TV is just magnificent; an absolutely stunning picture! This is definitely several steps up from my Mitsubishi RPTV, and that's saying a lot! I've been really impressed so far with the image from my Denon DVD-1600. That player and this plasma are an excellent combination.
Anybody out there using a Dish Network 942 to feed HD into the 1130? Any recommendations?
...sorry guys:
Been researching what plasmas accpet inputs from PCs over DVI and/or HDMI and now its the turn for the Pioneer 5060HD!
Anybody tried feeding a 1280x768p signal via a PC, through HDMI?
:)
Thank you.
anybody else on this?
Received my 1130 today, all is good so far but may I say Comcast sucks today. They forgot to bring out my HDMi box and I had to drive to two payment centers to find one. Forget the fact that no one really knows the difference between the HDMI box and other HD boxes. The boxes the 1130 came in that I have to keep in case of return are fricken huge!!!!!!!!!!
When I get the HD/HDMI box home only my locals work and On Demand..whatever.. Other channels say, need subscription... sounds like a programming issue to me but they want to send somebody out. My high speed internet is fine so I think they're clueless.
Picture looks great, dialed down the contrast per the settings on this site. I have yet to run any DVD's... more feedback in days to come..
Received my 1130 today, all is good so far but may I say Comcast sucks today. They forgot to bring out my HDMi box and I had to drive to two payment centers to find one. Forget the fact that no one really knows the difference between the HDMI box and other HD boxes. The boxes the 1130 came in that I have to keep in case of return are fricken huge!!!!!!!!!!
When I get the HD/HDMI box home only my locals work and On Demand..whatever.. Other channels say, need subscription... sounds like a programming issue to me but they want to send somebody out. My high speed internet is fine so I think they're clueless.
Picture looks great, dialed down the contrast per the settings on this site. I have yet to run any DVD's... more feedback in days to come..
The issue with Comcast is correctible from the their end, not yours. If you let them, they will eat up an inordinate amount of your time with nothing to show for it! :mad:
LIY
drsiebling 03-11-06, 10:50 AM What does everyone think of Dynamic Contrast on the 1130? I was watching Deadwood last night with the Dynamic Contrast set to high and I kept noticing a distinct stepping down of contrast during dark scenes. It was an almost strobe-like effect and was very noticable and distracting to my anal-retentive eye.
I'm currently using D-Nice's Break-In settings from about page 41 of this thread... perhaps someone could let me know if there is a newer setup I should be using. Also, I've set all inputs at the same break-in settings. Should I be breaking in this plasma with a different set of settings on each input?
Thanks again, everyone!
MisterEd 03-11-06, 11:44 AM What COLOR is the stand & mediabox on the PDP-4360HD? It's hard to tell from the photos ... looks WHITE.
Edllguy 03-11-06, 02:09 PM Hello everyone. This is my first post. First I would like to say that AVS Forum is great. The AVS members' posts was a major factor in my purchase decision of my new Elite Pro930. Thanks really goes to this forum's moderator, D-Nice and everyone else for their input. It really has educated me on plasma technology and helped me to enjoy this set to its maximum.
My first question(s) about this plasma surrounds the "Energy Save Function/Mode"
When accessing this function it says on the screen, depending on your choice, the following:
"Standard"-Bright and powerful, normal video.
"Save1"-Slightly lowers power consumption while slightly suppressing the brightness drop level.
"Save2"-Decreases the picture brightness and lowers power consumption.
I followed D-Nice's settings during the break-in period which includes the "save2" setting.
After the break-in period I had this plasma set ISF calibrated. However, after the calibration I noticed that I had left the powersave function in "save2" mode. Should I have had the set ISF calibrated in the "standard" setting? Does it matter? The reason I ask is that I noticed that when I toggle between "save2" and "standard" there is a whopping amount of light output on the "standard" mode and the so called "buzzing" effect is audible. So what is going on here? Am I throwing my saved ISF calibration settings, grayscale etc. out of wack when I switch to "standard"? If I could describe the effect when I switch to "standard" I see intense brightness overall (in colours), however, black and detail levels remain the same. It 's really hard to explain. I do notice that I can feel some level of eyestrain in the "standard" mode. Also if I could quote D-Nice on this power save mode, it may provide some insight on my issue :
Re: "Standard vs Save2"
"Both are power save modes, so yes your plasma "theoretically" will last longer as the phosphors will not burn as bright.
I personally use save2 as the panel is too bright for me in standard".
So what is really going on here? What is the energy save mode doing from a technical aspect and how does the different settings affect/influence other colour/calibration settings?
Before I email Pioneer I think the AVS experts here may have the answer. Any insight would be helpful. Since I had this set calibrated, this issue has been on my mind and I just want to put myself at ease and enjoy my new Pro930.
Thanks to all.
What does everyone think of Dynamic Contrast on the 1130? I was watching Deadwood last night with the Dynamic Contrast set to high and I kept noticing a distinct stepping down of contrast during dark scenes. It was an almost strobe-like effect and was very noticable and distracting to my anal-retentive eye.
I'm currently using D-Nice's Break-In settings from about page 41 of this thread... perhaps someone could let me know if there is a newer setup I should be using. Also, I've set all inputs at the same break-in settings. Should I be breaking in this plasma with a different set of settings on each input?
Thanks again, everyone!
I never liked turning on black level or DRE. If you look at the grey ramp test pattern from an AVIA or DVE DVD, it doesn't make the absolute black level better, only setting brightness correctly will do that, it just ends up crushing blacks or makes them nonlinear. It fools your eyes into thinking the blacks are blacker by compressing the black end of the grey scale but you really just end up losing black detail. The Pioneers have one of the highest ANSI (static) contrast ratios of any display such that IMO using DRE is unnecessary and it can make video "pop" but it is not very natural looking to me. I like using the "pure" mode as it makes the picture as close to calibrated as possible, short of having it ISF calibrated. About the only setting I like on is DNR as it really cuts down on the dither noise with little other effect on the picture. I got this last hint from the Perfect Vision review of the 1130. My opinion is base on watching mainly high quality HD and SD, but I could see using some of these features to improve low quality source material.
I also have more information on the settings I use here,
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7178871#post7178871
Overall the settings have been good with my HD-TIVO and HTPC sources.
What does everyone think of Dynamic Contrast on the 1130? I was watching Deadwood last night with the Dynamic Contrast set to high and I kept noticing a distinct stepping down of contrast during dark scenes. It was an almost strobe-like effect and was very noticable and distracting to my anal-retentive eye.
It's like a glitch in the lighting, right?
If I'm understanding what your describing correctly, it's not the Dynamic Contrast that's causing it.... it's the Power save mode you've probably got it on... and, I believe, it's not the contrast that's stepping, but the brightness. Try setting the Power to standard and I'm pretty sure what you're seeing will go away.
By the way... that will affect your settings... so you'll have to compensate for the extra brightness... fortunately, that's an easy one.
Good luck.
drsiebling 03-12-06, 12:10 PM If I'm understanding what your describing correctly, it's not the Dynamic Contrast that's causing it.... it's the Power save mode you've probably got it on... and, I believe, it's not the contrast that's stepping, but the brightness. Try setting the Power to standard and I'm pretty sure what you're seeing will go away.
It was actually the dynamic contrast that was doing it. It only occured in dark scenes and it visably bumped the contrast setting down a few notches whenever there was significant shadow detail. Strange. Either way, now that dynamic contrast is off, it isn't doing it any more.
Thanks!
-Ben
It was actually the dynamic contrast that was doing it. It only occured in dark scenes and it visably bumped the contrast setting down a few notches whenever there was significant shadow detail. Strange. Either way, now that dynamic contrast is off, it isn't doing it any more.
Thanks!
-Ben
I have my dynamic contrast off, so I guess I'm not noticing what you're noticing.
I was seeing some light shifts when I had the Power Save 2 mode on... they stopped when I set the Power back to standard.
In any event, glad you figured it out.
ssabripo 03-12-06, 01:20 PM I just noticed that we (myself included) spend a lot of time picking thru problems and issues, which is why we are here in the first place........BUT
.....How about a nice show of HAPPINESS!!! here is why I have a grin from ear to ear everytime this beauty is on!!! :D
http://server5.ihostphotos.com/img/2cd5WdW318f7a66T2dA1fab67db5F894.jpg
http://server5.ihostphotos.com/img/bW2808c0W08c68aT9bA5ea3d55c9S4f3.jpg
http://server5.ihostphotos.com/img/bW2808W0e08c6Tad9b75eA3d55c9T4f3.jpg
this is uncalibrated and in "break-in" settings mode , mind you ;)
Viventis 03-12-06, 04:22 PM I was wondering whether the Pioneer 5060 has anything that the average user should set or activate (or is hidden) in the service menu. I think it might have been one of the NEC's that had to have its day/night mode activated in the service menu. Aside from checking usage hours, is there anything I should definitely switch on in there? I am not inclined to experiment on my own.
chesney09 03-12-06, 06:23 PM I just took delivery of a Pio 4360 and I have to say.. I am very very happy with my purchase. The PQ is incredible. I need to adjust the colors, etc.. But... I am very happy.
I just ordered a Peerless Wall mount.
My question.. I will be putting all of the components into a closet. What is the best or possible solutions regarding remote control operation since everything will be in a closet and out of sight?
dukmahsik 03-12-06, 06:25 PM damn that looks nice!
.....How about a nice show of HAPPINESS!!! here is why I have a grin from ear to ear everytime this beauty is on!!!
Very nice
Edllguy 03-12-06, 07:45 PM Hello everyone. This is my first post. First I would like to say that AVS Forum is great. The AVS members' posts was a major factor in my purchase decision of my new Elite Pro930. Thanks really goes to this forum's moderator, D-Nice and everyone else for their input. It really has educated me on plasma technology and helped me to enjoy this set to its maximum.
My first question(s) about this plasma surrounds the "Energy Save Function/Mode"
When accessing this function it says on the screen, depending on your choice, the following:
"Standard"-Bright and powerful, normal video.
"Save1"-Slightly lowers power consumption while slightly suppressing the brightness drop level.
"Save2"-Decreases the picture brightness and lowers power consumption.
I followed D-Nice's settings during the break-in period which includes the "save2" setting.
After the break-in period I had this plasma set ISF calibrated. However, after the calibration I noticed that I had left the powersave function in "save2" mode. Should I have had the set ISF calibrated in the "standard" setting? Does it matter? The reason I ask is that I noticed that when I toggle between "save2" and "standard" there is a whopping amount of light output on the "standard" mode and the so called "buzzing" effect is audible. So what is going on here? Am I throwing my saved ISF calibration settings, grayscale etc. out of wack when I switch to "standard"? If I could describe the effect when I switch to "standard" I see intense brightness overall (in colours), however, black and detail levels remain the same. It 's really hard to explain. I do notice that I can feel some level of eyestrain in the "standard" mode. Also if I could quote D-Nice on this power save mode, it may provide some insight on my issue :
Re: "Standard vs Save2"
"Both are power save modes, so yes your plasma "theoretically" will last longer as the phosphors will not burn as bright.
I personally use save2 as the panel is too bright for me in standard".
So what is really going on here? What is the energy save mode doing from a technical aspect and how does the different settings affect/influence other colour/calibration settings?
Before I email Pioneer I think the AVS experts here may have the answer. Any insight would be helpful. Since I had this set calibrated, this issue has been on my mind and I just want to put myself at ease and enjoy my new Pro930.
Thanks to all.
If I could summarize my concern/question(s) above, basically I just would like to know was it wrong for me to have my Pro930 ISF calibrated in save2 instead of standard mode? Or would the ISF calibration compensate for any disadvantages/deficiencies of save2 mode and therefore I don't have to be concerned? Any thoughts on this?
Thanks
Erik_HTB 03-12-06, 08:37 PM I just noticed that we (myself included) spend a lot of time picking thru problems and issues, which is why we are here in the first place........BUT
.....How about a nice show of HAPPINESS!!! here is why I have a grin from ear to ear everytime this beauty is on!!! :D
Omg, the PQ from a 505cmx looks identical to the Elite you are showing here. I guess it really is true that they share glass etc. I was watching the same programming on Discovery HD (Buggin w/ Ruud I think) and that is exactly what I was seeing. Absolutely georgeous. Nice and dark with rich colors as well. I love it. What I want to know is how you got such great pictures of it. I tried but mine all came out like crap and you couldn't tell how good the PQ was. You must have a good camera. Please put up some picks of a DVD on there if you get a minute.
What I get the biggest kick out of, is when my kids get sucked right in when I put on some HD nature shows. They don't know anything about all this technology, but for some reason they get drawn into the programming more than usual. It's just more captivating to people it seems.
chesney09- get a universal remote of some kind with an RF extender. I recommend Phillips Pronto, but you have to know how to program it w/ a PC to get the most out of it.
If I could summarize my concern/question(s) above, basically I just would like to know was it wrong for me to have my Pro930 ISF calibrated in save2 instead of standard mode? Or would the ISF calibration compensate for any disadvantages/deficiencies of save2 mode and therefore I don't have to be concerned? Any thoughts on this?
Thanks
I think you should ask the people who did the calibration. :)
Since standard is brighter than save2, I would think a calibration done for save2 would NOT be the same. However, the difference is probably just brightness so switching to standard probably isn't horribly throwing the picture out of wack such that the calibration was useless. You can probably either turn down the brightness a bit to compensate or just be happier with the extra brightness and 90% of the calibration is still valid. (This is just my not necessarily informed opinion :) )
Question: For ISF calibration, do they just access the standard color controls that are available on the Elite models... or are there other hidden esoteric settings in the service menu that they set?
Edllguy 03-12-06, 09:56 PM Thanks soosy for your response to my question.
Based on my observations during the process and some background knowledge they have special software loaded on to a laptop. The laptop is connected to the back port of the media receiver. Maybe the service port I would assume. During calibration they go through a series of calibration service menus. I don't know if the special menus I saw were within the Elite media box or the ISF software program. I would further say that the layout as seen on the laptop is such that it is well organized and sometimes prompts are given of what to do next or when something is being saved. When the calibration is completed 2 new settings are added below the pure setting. It you go to the any Elite plasma pure setting you will see that there is empty space for these two additional settings (just below pure). When completed it will say ISF Day and below that ISF Night. Once the settings are saved the only way to change them is to access them via ISF software. In other words you need your ISF person to come back to access and change them.
I believe this is the special software the ISF techs use to setup the Elites. It is kind of expensive at $700, just to allow setup of the special ISF day/night settings. There is a demo version that can be downloaded.
http://www.milori.com/products/c3remote/pioneer_elite.asp
I think all the software is doing is automating access the the RS232 codes listed on page 11 of the Pioneer Elite Reference Guide for the 930/1130.
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pio/pe/images/portal/cit_3424/277590846Elite%20Reference%20Guides%20Plasma.pdf
your individual settings are going to vary from set to set, source to source and eye to eye. no one's going to be able to provide any accurate information regarding your permanent settings. all they can do it provide break in or baseline settings. what i did was use D-nice's break in settings as a baseline, and used my own eye as well as the THX optimizer found on my StarWars ATOC DVD. not the best by any means, but i had it laying around. i feel that i was able to better set the contrast and brightness using it than my eyes. some people recommend AVIA or DVE calibration DVD'S but that will only truly calibrate your DVD player as it's a different source than a HD or SD signal. that being said, some people use the disc, then transfer the settings to the TV input and tweak from there. that's what i did. i do plan on getting an ISF calibration later, but only when i get the surround setup so the calibrator can do both audio and video. YMMV.
hmm..this makes sense. I have the DVE disk and have been fiddling with it. Tried to use the THX calibration on the Star Wars disk, but can't find it! Maybe it's not available because I'm using a 10-year old Toshiba DVD player (480i--not progressive)?
mefromfl 03-13-06, 07:35 AM Hi,
I have been writing on this forum complaining about D* H20 giving me pixelation or little squares when there is fast motion on a certain scene for my 4360. Last week, I came over to my brothers house, and he has cable, and I was able to notice the same thing on his 1130 while watching american idol. He is connecting straight from the wall and I'm using HDMI. I am now kind of wondering if it could be the pioneers. When i'm watching NFL network or espn and there is text scrolling on the bottom, sometimes the text is very fuzzy or jittery and sometimes not. Sometimes when i change channels i look at where the number is changing the channel is sometimes fuzzy when changing too, kinna like ghosting. But very quick. I have notice this same thing while playing my xbox 360 with 69.99 componet cable for it. I am still unable to rule out what's the problem, I don't know if i'm being too picky but it will annoy me too much. Is anyone experiencing this or know how to fix it? Is there any special settings i can do? I have my tv set to standard now with power save2 on. And I also had D* switch out their H20 reciever twice to me already. I don't where else to ask for this information. I'm also using monoprice's 6ft hdmi. If not fast motion, the TV does look very good, my viewing distance is sometimes 3-5 feet and 10-12ft.
If I could summarize my concern/question(s) above, basically I just would like to know was it wrong for me to have my Pro930 ISF calibrated in save2 instead of standard mode? Or would the ISF calibration compensate for any disadvantages/deficiencies of save2 mode and therefore I don't have to be concerned? Any thoughts on this?
Thanks
Not sure anyone has answered your question, but... the answer is, yes, switching to the standard Power setting will definitely effect your settings... but, as someone pointed out, all you really need to do is tweak the Brightness.... you can either do this by eye, or, if you have a DVR, record HD net's test patterns.
Hope this helps.
The last question brings up an interesting point.... I think this whole "power save mode to help against image retention" thing has been blown way out of proportion.
The Power save mode does exactly what the name implies... it saves power. It does this primarily by lowering brightness. Brightness really doesn't effect Image retention... contrast does.
So... in my humble opionion, you should set it to whatever mode you think looks best... no matter how new or old your plasma is.
Unless you're looking to save a few cents on your electric bill... and hey, that's not such a bad thing.
jstorerj 03-13-06, 09:37 AM I just took delivery of a Pio 4360 and I have to say.. I am very very happy with my purchase. The PQ is incredible. I need to adjust the colors, etc.. But... I am very happy.
I just ordered a Peerless Wall mount.
My question.. I will be putting all of the components into a closet. What is the best or possible solutions regarding remote control operation since everything will be in a closet and out of sight?
I'm in the same boat and have been reading a bunch to figure out the best solution. I've seen several references to this (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=182-448&ctab=14) setup. Check out the remote control and home theater builder forums for more posts on the topic. If/when I pull the trigger I'll let you know.
The last question brings up an interesting point.... I think this whole "power save mode to help against image retention" thing has been blown way out of proportion.
The Power save mode does exactly what the name implies... it saves power. It does this primarily by lowering brightness. Brightness really doesn't effect Image retention... contrast does.
So... in my humble opionion, you should set it to whatever mode you think looks best... no matter how new or old your plasma is.
Unless you're looking to save a few cents on your electric bill... and hey, that's not such a bad thing.
I think the issue is semantics which can be confusing. The power save lowers the peak white level which is same as picture brightness. This is confused with the brightness control which adjusts black level while contrast adjusts the white level.
However I would think anything you do to limited the white level will reduce the chances of image retention. I just prefer to use the contrast control. I guess you could make the case that turning on the save2 mode is safer as the issue with the contrast control it that it is a gain control and it's effect can vary from input to input while turning on the save2 mode limits the peak white level to a maximum level (clips it?) so there is no way to overdrive the white level.
Jake NYC 03-13-06, 11:16 AM .....How about a nice show of HAPPINESS!!! here is why I have a grin from ear to ear everytime this beauty is on!!! :D
Great looking set up! But why not remove the Pioneer speakers for an even cleaner look if you're not using them?
ssabripo 03-13-06, 12:00 PM Great looking set up! But why not remove the Pioneer speakers for an even cleaner look if you're not using them?
I do use them...I have a 5 month old and a 2 year old, and unfortunately I can't always have the "system" on....so I have to have some audio out without having to turn on the system and turn off the sub, etc... :o
Hello D-Nice,
I wanted to provide you with an update since your recommended break-in settings, since your posting response number # 2553 on February 12, 2006. (i.e. See past thread for more details)
The break-in process is going very well, other than experiencing minor problems with the SA8300HD PVR when connected via HDMI and cable service supplier videotron.
The only thing we have noticed is that there seems to be a constant very very faint pink blush on a white item. For example, when watching NHL hockey, the white ice or white snow seems to have a very very slight pink blush tone. Similarly, a person's face appears very natural, yet they seems to have too a blush make-up on.
Also, I did notice that when the SA explorer is searching for the correct picture format, during channel change, the momentarily apprearing blank greyscreen has this background blush.
Any suggestions, do you think this is normal or is this being too picky?? Do you think a may have an incorrect setting?
Best Regards,
Ermie
n.b. : By the way, our Family is really enjoying our PRO-930 and are very happy with our purchase. The PQ is just awesome! Thanks again for all your support!
My 1130 is looking good..... very happy........ Great picture. I can't believe how much better it looks than some of the store set ups.
I was trying to get my Sony Commander to work the Pioneer but the codes do not work on the Plama in the Sony's OM. Does anyone have any suggestions.
sperlsco 03-13-06, 01:48 PM My question.. I will be putting all of the components into a closet. What is the best or possible solutions regarding remote control operation since everything will be in a closet and out of sight?
I have been slowly shifting my components from an entertainment center to a media closet (redone from a coat closet). I own a Universal Remote MX-850 remote along with an MRF-250 RF (radio frequency) receiver. The 850 can directly control components through IR, and can also communicate with the 250 via RF (which in turn sends IR signals to components). The combination allows RF control of my components in the closet. The MRF-250 receiver sends its IR signals one of two ways: 1) It has six individual IR emitters that you can attach between the 250 and the individual components, and 2) an IR blaster that resends the IR signals en-masse. Since all of my components are (or will be) enclosed in a single closet, the IR blaster appears to work just fine without my needing the indiviudal emitters (at least so far). Also, the 850 remote is entirely PC programmable. I highly recommend this product. If you are interested, you may want to go and have a look at a different forum for more information and reviews on HT remotes:
http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/mboard/rc-master/list.cgi
Scott
NemoZorro 03-13-06, 03:24 PM .....How about a nice show of HAPPINESS!!! here is why I have a grin from ear to ear everytime this beauty is on!!! :D
Wow, just wow - I can't wait to get ours! Thanks for sharing these pics....
ssabripo 03-13-06, 03:52 PM Wow, just wow - I can't wait to get ours! Thanks for sharing these pics....
hehehe....no problem. There are 105pages and counting, and very few "hey, look how awesome it looks" posts, so I figured I'll put some positive spins to the thread :D
I'm gonna take some better pics later and post them....
I'm supposed to get my replacement sometime early next week, but I'm in no rush...I'm enjoying this set as is... :)
ssabripo 03-13-06, 08:04 PM as promised....some DVD's (Lion King, Chronicles of Riddick, the Incredibles)....enjoy:
http://server5.ihostphotos.com/img/dWb1766412Sd11ffTaa8S33aZ3456b07.jpg
http://server5.ihostphotos.com/img/Wa487c9f64S4e2T3098Sdf4460fBdb0b.jpg
http://server5.ihostphotos.com/img/Wa487c9f6S54e273T982df4T60A0db0b.jpg
http://server5.ihostphotos.com/img/c3W6e7b0Sdad7a59T1bT207f3F801c6a.jpg
http://server5.ihostphotos.com/img/cW36e7b03dSd7a5Tf1b2T07f3dW01c6a.jpg
http://server5.ihostphotos.com/img/c336eWbS3dad7T59f1b220TfCd801c6a.jpg
http://server5.ihostphotos.com/img/0W0338bbcfdS74b6Tc9fb89T4fS196e7.jpg
http://server5.ihostphotos.com/img/0c03W8SbcfdcT4b6cc9Tb8994Tc196e7.jpg
Everyone has been talking/reporting of stuck pixels but is there a way to FIX it? I have a 5060HD that is barely 2 months old. I have 2 stuck pixels. One is stuck on red all the time the other is stuck on black only when the background is blue.
I came across a program called UDPixel that supposedly fixes stuck pixels. Tried it on my lcd monitor but unfortunately (or should I say fortunately) I did not have a stuck pixel to try and fix.
Regardless I have tested this program on my monitor just to see what it does. It flashes a pattern of colors on the the pixel (you can actually pin point the pixel or cluster of pixels) to try and "wake" the pixel. You can also set how fast you want it to flash. It also comes with a test to check for stuck pixels behind several color back drops. I did some research and some people ran it for as little as 5 minutes, others for a couple hours and while some ran for days in order for the pixel to be fixed! Some claim that it worked and some said it didn't. What it seemed to me was this was for lcd monitors but this should work for plasmas too. Another tool I came across was fixdeadpixels (kinda of a misnomer since you can't fix dead pixels) but I haven't tried it yet. (Another program for Mac OSX is Dead Pixel Identifier 5.9.4 as well as another version for the Sony PSP as well)
Has anyone tried these software (via VGA input)? If so, was it successful? More importantly, is it safe to run on a plasma tv? I recently developed 2 stuck pixels on a 1.5 month tv but want a safe method to try and fix this. If its not safe or a waste of time then I can live with it.
Your thoughts appreciated
bmwsport 03-13-06, 11:12 PM I recently took delivery of the 1130 and I am unable to display my laptop screen via vga input onto the pio. The message on the pio says "This signal is not supported." I adjust the settings in display properties of my laptop to 1280x768. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanx.
I recently took delivery of the 1130 and I am unable to display my laptop screen via vga input onto the pio. The message on the pio says "This signal is not supported." I adjust the settings in display properties of my laptop to 1280x768. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanx.
Did you check the refresh rate? I know the Pioneer supports 60 Hz (see page 76). The screen size should also be set to Full 2 (see page 65) of the manual but that should set automatically.
I think the issue is semantics which can be confusing. The power save lowers the peak white level which is same as picture brightness. This is confused with the brightness control which adjusts black level while contrast adjusts the white level.
However I would think anything you do to limited the white level will reduce the chances of image retention. I just prefer to use the contrast control. I guess you could make the case that turning on the save2 mode is safer as the issue with the contrast control it that it is a gain control and it's effect can vary from input to input while turning on the save2 mode limits the peak white level to a maximum level (clips it?) so there is no way to overdrive the white level.
I played around with Standard vs Save1 on my 5061 last night on a bright scene with a lot of white. I didn't notice any difference in brightness, but Save1 had noticably less buzzing noise, so I left it there.
I'm guessing the reason I saw no change is that my contrast settings were already low enough as to not show a difference in brightness... though I have mine set on the high side compared to other settings I've seen: contrast at 49, brightness 5. I agree high settings probably increase IR, but I'm personally not concerned about IR/burn-in much at all. I've been playing a lot of Xbox and movies/tv with bars and only seen the slightest of IR if I look carefully at a black screen as soon as I'm done. Compared to the NEC 50xr5, it's nothing. (And though that set showed IR very easily, I wasn't worried or bothered by it at all either.) I wouldn't leave a static image on the screen, but that's about the only precaution I believe is necessary.
Btw, a while back I said the "Game" setting had the best looking colors. Well I've played around more since then and can no longer see a difference between User and Game. Not sure what I was seeing before. :o :) Probably just a variance in the Tint setting.
Everyone has been talking/reporting of stuck pixels but is there a way to FIX it? I have a 5060HD that is barely 2 months old. I have 2 stuck pixels. One is stuck on red all the time the other is stuck on black only when the background is blue.
I came across a program called UDPixel that supposedly fixes stuck pixels. Tried it on my lcd monitor but unfortunately (or should I say fortunately) I did not have a stuck pixel to try and fix.
Regardless I have tested this program on my monitor just to see what it does. It flashes a pattern of colors on the the pixel (you can actually pin point the pixel or cluster of pixels) to try and "wake" the pixel. You can also set how fast you want it to flash. It also comes with a test to check for stuck pixels behind several color back drops. I did some research and some people ran it for as little as 5 minutes, others for a couple hours and while some ran for days in order for the pixel to be fixed! Some claim that it worked and some said it didn't. What it seemed to me was this was for lcd monitors but this should work for plasmas too. Another tool I came across was fixdeadpixels (kinda of a misnomer since you can't fix dead pixels) but I haven't tried it yet. (Another program for Mac OSX is Dead Pixel Identifier 5.9.4 as well as another version for the Sony PSP as well)
Has anyone tried these software (via VGA input)? If so, was it successful? More importantly, is it safe to run on a plasma tv? I recently developed 2 stuck pixels on a 1.5 month tv but want a safe method to try and fix this. If its not safe or a waste of time then I can live with it.
Your thoughts appreciated
I'm in the same situation with the dead pixels, so if anyone had any input, I'd greatly appreciate it as well.
Thanks!
Everyone has been talking/reporting of stuck pixels but is there a way to FIX it? I have a 5060HD that is barely 2 months old. I have 2 stuck pixels. One is stuck on red all the time the other is stuck on black only when the background is blue.
i'm not an expert, but i'm pretty sure that a pixel that's "stuck black" when the background is blue is a dead blue pixel.
NemoZorro 03-14-06, 09:46 AM as promised....some DVD's (Lion King, Chronicles of Riddick, the Incredibles)....enjoy:
Thanks again - we will primarily be watching DVDs for now and it is nice to see how fantastic they look. I can't get over the color and 3D look to this monitor..... :)
i'm not an expert, but i'm pretty sure that a pixel that's "stuck black" when the background is blue is a dead blue pixel.
But when the background is red, green, grey, etc the pixel matches the background (ie. displays the correct color). Hmmm... I didn't know that pixels can lose the ability to display a certain color but fine with the rest ...
I don't really care about this pixel. Its the other pixel that is red all the time that is bothersome.
I played around with Standard vs Save1 on my 5061 last night on a bright scene with a lot of white. I didn't notice any difference in brightness, but Save1 had noticably less buzzing noise, so I left it there.
I'm guessing the reason I saw no change is that my contrast settings were already low enough as to not show a difference in brightness... though I have mine set on the high side compared to other settings I've seen: contrast at 49, brightness 5. I agree high settings probably increase IR, but I'm personally not concerned about IR/burn-in much at all. I've been playing a lot of Xbox and movies/tv with bars and only seen the slightest of IR if I look carefully at a black screen as soon as I'm done. Compared to the NEC 50xr5, it's nothing. (And though that set showed IR very easily, I wasn't worried or bothered by it at all either.) I wouldn't leave a static image on the screen, but that's about the only precaution I believe is necessary.
Btw, a while back I said the "Game" setting had the best looking colors. Well I've played around more since then and can no longer see a difference between User and Game. Not sure what I was seeing before. :o :) Probably just a variance in the Tint setting.
Nice find on turning on Save1 to reduce buzz. It tried it out and saw no noticeable change in brightness but it did reduce the high frequency buzz on a mainly white screen. I am going to leave it on.
I keep the contrast at 30 and the only input I see image retention with my PC on the VGA input. I guess that is to be expected as there is a lot of static information on a normal PC screen. However it always goes away.
I believe I saw a post that said you traded in your NEC 50XR5 for an Pioneer 5061. I was down to deciding between the two and I ended up getting the Pioneer 1130 because I thought the Pioneer had better overall PQ, including better blacks, excellent video processing, and no banding, which I saw on the NEC. The NEC had a lot of nice features and good PQ but I learned the hard way from buying my previous plasma, don't compromise on PQ for features.
I posted my comparison here, but my experience is from comparing them at the dealer but you actually owned both.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6968304#post6968304
I bet a number of people that visit this forum are making the same decision between the NEC and Pioneer and it would be interesting to know your thoughts between the two or did you already post this somewhere on the forum that you could include a link to?
drsiebling 03-14-06, 11:15 AM I bet a number of people that visit this forum are making the same decision between the NEC and Pioneer and it would be interesting to know your thoughts between the two or did you already post this somewhere on the forum that you could include a link to?
My Plasma purchase had been narrowed down to the NEC and the Elite as well. The deciding factor for me, was the banding issue on the NEC. Stuff like that really jumps out at me and I knew I wouldn't be happy with the display because of it. ISF calibration might have cleared it up, but not likely. The only real problem I had with the 1130 was with the potential judder issue and the large jump in price from the NEC. So far, I've not seen any judder on the 1130 and the price was just right when I found a local Elite dealer who aggressively negotiated with me on the 1130. I ended up paying just a few hundred more for the Elite than the NEC... that was a no-brainer.
The Elite is, without a doubt, a superior product. The NEC is an excellent value, but has some limitations that the Elite doesn't suffer from. The media-box on the Elite is also kick-ass.
Hello all.
I just needed some clarification. I have printed out, searched and have written tons and I mean tons of info down regarding Pio 4360/1 sets. I have all the break in info down and used it whn I recieved my set this friday. At least I thought I did, where can I find the settings for the 436/1 set. I don't know how many times I have seen people qoute D nice settings and then when i go the actual link of his settings they are not only off they are plain different.
Can anyone explain?
I know the image is in the eye of the beholder, but I'm just talking about for the break in period. Also, I know I can't use the Pure, so I have right now it set to standard...is that cool for now?
Nice find on turning on Save1 to reduce buzz. It tried it out and saw no noticeable change in brightness but it did reduce the high frequency buzz on a mainly white screen. I am going to leave it on.
mhfnet... when you say no noticable change, do you mean to your eye or using the hdnet test pattern?
I'm going to try it when I get home tonight.
Thanks.
I bet a number of people that visit this forum are making the same decision between the NEC and Pioneer and it would be interesting to know your thoughts between the two or did you already post this somewhere on the forum that you could include a link to?
Yes, actually the last post in that very same thread. ;)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7244395&&#post7244395
I had initially discounted the Pioneer due to various reasons (the gray bars and I have mixed feelings about the MR concept since it adds another box.) But I have to thank you specifically as I read your posts several times regarding banding and the smooth grayscale of the Pioneers and it really helped steer me. Also I think Robonaut mentioned contouring specifically so I thank them as well.
After a week with the Pioneer, I think it really comes down to NEC has a slightly sharper/clearer picture but some banding while the Pioneer has no banding but slightly fuzzier picture at times due to the dithering. It's not a big problem, especially at further distances, but it's the one thing I still notice a bit and can't quite adjust away.
Overall I'm very happy with the Pioneer, though it was hard for me to send back the NEC and I would choose it over the Pioneer if it weren't for the banding. The lack of smooth grayscale would sometimes show up as a single blocky divider line that jumped around a bit. Hard to describe but basically I think it was a larger step in the grayscale gradient that would particularly stand out. It's remarkable that Pioneer seems to be the only one to have eliminated banding and I'm impressed everytime I DON'T see it on a scene I know is difficult. :)
FHinojos 03-14-06, 02:17 PM I just bought a Pio Pro-1130HD and the Pioneer site states 6th generation technology. I go to the Panny site for a competing product and it states 9th generation technology. Are they talking about the glass or the individual releases for their respective products? Do I have to worry about burn-in being a problem with 6th generation Pio hardware more than Panny's 9th generation technology?
Paranoid mounting question here. The BB delivery guys mounted my 5060 on the silver stand. However, they only used the two long bolts to mount the stand pipes to the center of the tv. Reading the instructions, it appears that the two short bolts should go in the center and the two longs bolts at the bottom. Even so, the bolts are tight and the whole thing seems extraordinarily stable.
I know that I should probably re-mount correctly...but it seems like when I don't leave "well enough alone", then I create a new problem (eg., if I shuffle around to re-mount, I'll kill off a pixel or some such).
Silly question I realize but, like I said, the PQ right now is absolutely perfect...and I don't want to move around if I don't have to.
MaliciousBraham 03-14-06, 03:44 PM I just bought a Pio Pro-1130HD and the Pioneer site states 6th generation technology. I go to the Panny site for a competing product and it states 9th generation technology. Are they talking about the glass or the individual releases for their respective products? Do I have to worry about burn-in being a problem with 6th generation Pio hardware more than Panny's 9th generation technology?
I wouldnt say "any more". I would say equally. They are very similar in terms of image retention, burn in. It can happen during the first 100-200 hrs on either set, but after that it is virtually a non-issue.
As far as plasmas go, the 6G pioneers and 9G panasonics are the best of the best. Each has its own feature set and specific details, so its really just up to the buyer to decide which fits them.
MaliciousBraham 03-14-06, 03:48 PM Paranoid mounting question here. The BB delivery guys mounted my 5060 on the silver stand. However, they only used the two long bolts to mount the stand pipes to the center of the tv. Reading the instructions, it appears that the two short bolts should go in the center and the two longs bolts at the bottom. Even so, the bolts are tight and the whole thing seems extraordinarily stable.
I know that I should probably re-mount correctly...but it seems like when I don't leave "well enough alone", then I create a new problem (eg., if I shuffle around to re-mount, I'll kill off a pixel or some such).
Silly question I realize but, like I said, the PQ right now is absolutely perfect...and I don't want to move around if I don't have to.
Do whatever it takes for you not to have to worry about it. We've all got too much stress in our lives to have to worry about our plasmas falling off their stands.
If you change the screws, have someone hold the plasma at the center-top (just balance, not really any pressure application) and change the screws out one side at a time. It only takes a minute per each side to do it.
err, ahh well the 5060 stand is a whole lot lighter than my 1130 stand is, so maybe you should have a bigger(stronger) person balance the plasma, just in case anything shifts/goes wrong.
But either way, do whatever it takes so you dont have to worry about it anymore.
Is it ok to have my Pio 4360 on standard mode during the break in period since I can't use the Pure Setting?
Thanks.
i have my 1130 hung on the wall and at some point i have to take it down temporarily so that i can run an electrical outlet behind it, and to paint. but what i am wondering is once i take it off the wall how can i safely store it? i unfortunately do not have room to store the original box so i cant put it in there, and i have read that its not good to lay it flat. so do i just have to attach the stand every time? or is there some other better way that others have come up with to store it.
After a week with the Pioneer, I think it really comes down to NEC has a slightly sharper/clearer picture but some banding while the Pioneer has no banding but slightly fuzzier picture at times due to the dithering. It's not a big problem, especially at further distances, but it's the one thing I still notice a bit and can't quite adjust away.:)
I normally don't like picture "enhancements" as they are usually detrimental if the SD/HD source material is high quality, which mostly what I watch. However two features I really like are CTI and DNR, which I leave on all the time. CTI is kind of subtle but claims to smooth out edges of color images so they are more distinct. DNR does a great job reducing dither and other image noise with almost imperceptible loss in PQ, very impressive.
lipcrkr 03-14-06, 07:51 PM I wouldnt say "any more". I would say equally. They are very similar in terms of image retention, burn in. It can happen during the first 100-200 hrs on either set, but after that it is virtually a non-issue.
As far as plasmas go, the 6G pioneers and 9G panasonics are the best of the best. Each has its own feature set and specific details, so its really just up to the buyer to decide which fits them.
I had been looking very closely at the 5060 as the other choice besides the Panny but i was taken aback by what has been happening at my local BB recently. There are a group of 42" and 50" plasmas in an aisle with the 42" on one side and 50" on the other. There is the vegas.com loop that everyone has seen and one TV actually had IR of the vegas.com red arrow, and that was the Pioneer 5060. Granted, it went away after the next loop came on but what bothered me was that this particular TV has been running for two months. I don't know what this all means but none of the Panny's, Toshiba's, Zenith's, or Sammy's had this although in my local CC there is a Sammy with severe burn-in (it's permanent) from a Carlos Santana and friends DVD that plays around the clock. As one who watches many cable channels with logos and one who plans on connecting a PC this makes me nervous. I know about break in periods but from my eyes it still happens long after that.
marose1 03-14-06, 09:45 PM I just purchased the Pioneer PDP-5060HD and have a question concerning setup to permit display of a TV Channel, e.g., channel 5, & a VCR Channel, e.g., channel 6, simultaneously on split screen. My current configuration is as follows:
Cox Cable (no cable box) is run to 2-way splitter. From splitter coaxial cable is run to:
1) Pioneer Media Receiver - ANT/CABLE A IN terminal, and,
2) JVC (HR-J692U) VCR - Antenna In terminal
No (coaxial) connections are made to the Pioneer Media Receiver - ANT B terminal or to the JVC VCR - TV OUT terminal
A composite A/V cable (Yellow-Red-White connectors) is connected between the Pioneer Media Receiver (Input 2 terminals) and the JVC VCR - Composite A/V OUT terminals.
What I would like to do is to use the TV tuner to display one channel on the split screen and use the VCR tuner to simultaneously display a different channel on the other half of the split screen. So far, I have been unable to display both images on the screen at the same time.
Is it possible to do what I want, and if so, what am I doing wrong?
Thanks
Sloanhaus 03-14-06, 11:02 PM I just purchased the Pioneer Elite 1130 and am in need of some configuration help. Is their anywhere I can go to get advice on setting up the Plasma to get a good picture. I understand that I will have to adjust it a little, I really just need some advice for when I first begin watching it...I am a rookie looking to pop my cherry in the plasma world. Can anyone throw me some bones and help me get a head start. Ex. Black levels, when to use different viewing modes, and other settings that I should be aware of. Also, has anyone used the Cyron backlights? I just ordered those yesterday and was wondering if they are worth the $150.
Thanks
Brad Sloan
Sloanhaus
FHinojos 03-15-06, 02:13 AM I noticed Pio's website lists resolution as WXGA (1280 x 768), yet I am reading a lot about 1080i and 1080p. Is the Pro-1130HD capable of 1080i? 1080p?
PAnoah6791 03-15-06, 02:22 AM I've got a couple of questions for all you experts regarding my 4360... first off, the other day, I was playing PS2 (I know :eek: ), and wanted to put the ACC Championship (HD feed via HDMI from my comcast box), on PIP or split screen, but when I pushed the split button, it automatically put the second part of the screen on ANT A. I pushed swap so that was the active input, and tried to the second input to my cable box, but it said "cannot change input source". I tried it in reverse order as well, what am I doing wrong :confused: 2nd, does the "picture off" function actually turn the screen off, or just leave it on an all black (or shade of gray) screen? Because since the only speakers (for now) in the room with my TV are on my TV, and it would be nice to be able to play music once in a while, and we can do it through the DVD player or the radio feeds from the cable box, but both of those leave either static images or black on the screen, it will burn in. If I use the picture off function will I be ok, or will that just burn my whole screen black?
Thanks
I noticed Pio's website lists resolution as WXGA (1280 x 768), yet I am reading a lot about 1080i and 1080p. Is the Pro-1130HD capable of 1080i? 1080p?
I suspect this is covered in some HD FAQ, but the short answer is that the panel has natively 1280x768 pixels and converts any input to that size (results depend on input). 720p and 1080i inputs look great (coming from a Sony XBR 34 inch CRT with native 1920x1080 resolution I can see no visible difference with the Pioneer and its 1280x768 pixels, though I am sure is this some if you did AB comparisions).
Things to consider...
- You likely want data to be as close to its orginal form/go through the least resolution comversion processes on its way to the screen. Additionally you want to use your best most high quality image convertors in the process. So for DVD I use 480P or HDMI to the panel and let it convert to 1280x768 (I have tried 480i and found the Pioner 79avi seems better at deinterlacing, but this is personal perference with no solid AB test data to back this up). For my HD Tivo I would love to send "native" format to the panel as I expect the panel is much better at resolution conversion than the 4 cent chip in the HD Tivo (kidding) but I can't so I manually change the HD Tivo output to what I know to be the native format when possible (720P for FOX, 1080i for all other HD content and 480i for SD content). This seems to be the best choice though it does require not forgetting to change the output format when changing channels.
- The quality of your source is likely much more of a factor in the quality of the presentation than the native panel resolution... HD OTA seems to be the best, DTV (or cable I suspect) HD content second due to more compression than OTA, DVD next and finally SD content. Somewhere in the middle is HD broadcast of SD content, this seems to be higher quality than normal SD, I suspect this is due to pulling it from Betacam tape (higher rez than SD NTSC) or simple a bette conversion process in the studio. Overall there are lots of tricks panels go through that make low rez content look good (which the Pioneer seems to do very well for DVD content, IMHO).
- Lastly, you can always wait for a 1920x1080 panel (or buy one today from another manufacture) but I suspect the cost is or will be rather high for at least the near future (or you give up other areas of performance).
In the end I was once worried about plasma resolution, the Pioneer is pretty darn good and I never think about 1920x1280 or 1280x768. Go look and enjoy.
Geoff
Cox Cable (no cable box) is run to 2-way splitter. From splitter coaxial cable is run to:
1) Pioneer Media Receiver - ANT/CABLE A IN terminal, and,
2) JVC (HR-J692U) VCR - Antenna In terminal
A composite A/V cable (Yellow-Red-White connectors) is connected between the Pioneer Media Receiver (Input 2 terminals) and the JVC VCR - Composite A/V OUT terminals.
What I would like to do is to use the TV tuner to display one channel on the split screen and use the VCR tuner to simultaneously display a different channel on the other half of the split screen. So far, I have been unable to display both images on the screen at the same time.
this is pretty much exactly my setup, though mine is a little more convoluted. i run a 4-way splitter from my source, sending output to (1) the MR, (2) & (3) two separate VCR's and (4) a DVD recorder. the output of one of the VCR's goes straight into IN2 on the MR, and the other VCR & DVD recorder run through an A/V receiver and into IN1 on the MR. i also have an OTA hooked up to Ant-A. i can do split with Ant-A/Ant-B, or split with either antenna and the A/V receiver, or split with antenna and VCR.
i CAN'T, however, do a split with IN1/IN2 for some reason. it will only allow me to use one A/V IN when i'm doing split screen.
but my VCR directly into IN2 splitting with Ant-A is exactly your situation, and it works perfectly.
MaliciousBraham 03-15-06, 12:56 PM Is it ok to have my Pio 4360 on standard mode during the break in period since I can't use the Pure Setting?
Thanks.
The base standard is only slightly different from PURE. I think DNICE has custom adjusted the USER setting, so his break in settings would be a great place to start.
The setting itself doesnt matter so much (PURE, USER, STANDARD, etc), its how you adjust the setting. I wouldnt use any of the built in defaults for breaking without changing anything.
Give DNICE's breakin settings a try.
i have my 1130 hung on the wall and at some point i have to take it down temporarily so that i can run an electrical outlet behind it, and to paint. but what i am wondering is once i take it off the wall how can i safely store it? i unfortunately do not have room to store the original box so i cant put it in there, and i have read that its not good to lay it flat. so do i just have to attach the stand every time? or is there some other better way that others have come up with to store it.
comments anyone?
Viventis 03-15-06, 02:26 PM Originally Posted by bdee1
i have my 1130 hung on the wall and at some point i have to take it down temporarily so that i can run an electrical outlet behind it, and to paint. but what i am wondering is once i take it off the wall how can i safely store it? i unfortunately do not have room to store the original box so i cant put it in there, and i have read that its not good to lay it flat. so do i just have to attach the stand every time? or is there some other better way that others have come up with to store it.
comments anyone?
Your 1130 stand can hold the plasma fairly securely without even bolting it in. If you want it to be even more secure, the bolts just take a minute to install. What could be simpler? I would use the stand.
Originally Posted by bdee1
i have my 1130 hung on the wall and at some point i have to take it down temporarily so that i can run an electrical outlet behind it, and to paint. but what i am wondering is once i take it off the wall how can i safely store it? i unfortunately do not have room to store the original box so i cant put it in there, and i have read that its not good to lay it flat. so do i just have to attach the stand every time? or is there some other better way that others have come up with to store it.
Your 1130 stand can hold the plasma fairly securely without even bolting it in. If you want it to be even more secure, the bolts just take a minute to install. What could be simpler? I would use the stand.
sweet! i did not knwo that - i actually never unpacked the stand and i just assumed that it was a pain to put on. thanks for the info!
I just had Scientific Atlanta Explorer3250HD installed from Charter Comm., which didn't have DVI activated because they "don't have it for the S. Cal". Can someone, in the area of 91803, confirm if they have a newer hd-box model that equipped w/ either hdmi or dvi, please.
TIA,
TP
sdrucker 03-15-06, 10:59 PM Hi there,
We received our 930 today from Tweeter, and I have to admit I'm impressed with the picture. There's plenty of ventilation (almost 12" above the top of the set after taking into account that the set+stand's 6" lower than our old 43" RPTV), so my original worry about that's settled.
I have a burn-in question, though: my wife loves to watch General Hospital on Soapnet, where there's a white Soapnet logo in the bottom right corner of the set when the show's on. They have the logo maybe 15 minutes at a time conversatively, with two-three minutes of commercials between parts of the show, which is in standard definition.
If I'm using D-Nice's burn-in settings and have 4:3 set to Wide to avoid black bar problem, is there anything we have to worry about? Should I ban her from watching the show for more than five or ten minutes at a time until we get 100+ hours' burn-in? I don't have a burn-in DVD, but I'm thinking that if logos are THAT much of an issue we should get one ASAP.
The bright side is that I don't see us watching anything with a logo (the same logo, anyway) for more than an hour at a time in the near future.
Question: I am very close to buying the Pio 930 and would like to know from owners of this plasma if they are happy with their set? Also, re the media receiver fan, does it shut off when you shut the tv off? Is it quiet? (I'm sensitive to noise) Pixels OK?
Right now either I wait for the new 42 pio's that I hear will have no more media boxes (good thing or not?) or wait for the new 42 Panny 600U's? Or should I go for the 930's?
Any advice is MUCH appreciated.
WilliWu 03-16-06, 12:06 PM The only way to get the Pio media receiver to shut off is to unplug it. The fan runs continuously in the standby mode. I'm told that most are pretty quiet, but near perfect balance is required so that there are some quality control problems. I had the misfortune of getting on that has an annoying hum in the standby mode and have scheduled an appointment with Pioneer to replace the fan. Others have reported that this does the trick.
Beware that this is not a problem that is unique to Pioneer media receivers. The high speed digital processing that is required for Cablecard, TV Guide On Screen and other functions performed in the standby mode generates a lot of heat and requires a fan. Integrating the media receiver functions into the panel does not change that.
Thanks for the info WilliWo, I'm sure Pioneer will fix it. I just wonder why other plasmas fans shut down when you power off. Not a big deal I guess. I'm one of those picky people who look for problems.
They are sexy, and the PQ is way up there.
Congrats sdrucker!
MaliciousBraham 03-16-06, 02:02 PM Hi there,
We received our 930 today from Tweeter, and I have to admit I'm impressed with the picture. There's plenty of ventilation (almost 12" above the top of the set after taking into account that the set+stand's 6" lower than our old 43" RPTV), so my original worry about that's settled.
I have a burn-in question, though: my wife loves to watch General Hospital on Soapnet, where there's a white Soapnet logo in the bottom right corner of the set when the show's on. They have the logo maybe 15 minutes at a time conversatively, with two-three minutes of commercials between parts of the show, which is in standard definition.
If I'm using D-Nice's burn-in settings and have 4:3 set to Wide to avoid black bar problem, is there anything we have to worry about? Should I ban her from watching the show for more than five or ten minutes at a time until we get 100+ hours' burn-in? I don't have a burn-in DVD, but I'm thinking that if logos are THAT much of an issue we should get one ASAP.
The bright side is that I don't see us watching anything with a logo (the same logo, anyway) for more than an hour at a time in the near future.
Logos an hour at a time shouldnt cause any problems if you are using the burn-in settings. But I defintely would not do any 3 hour marathons with the same logo until the first 100-200 hrs are up.
The best advice is just to check it by changing stations every 15 minutes or so. THat will let you get an idea of how the tv is performing and you can adjust your viewing if the need arises. But in my experience with my 1130, an hour is no where near enough to do permanent damage.
drsiebling 03-16-06, 02:13 PM Logos an hour at a time shouldnt cause any problems if you are using the burn-in settings. But I defintely would not do any 3 hour marathons with the same logo until the first 100-200 hrs are up.
The best advice is just to check it by changing stations every 15 minutes or so. THat will let you get an idea of how the tv is performing and you can adjust your viewing if the need arises. But in my experience with my 1130, an hour is no where near enough to do permanent damage.
I've been using D-Nice's break-in settings for a week now on my 1130. During this time, I've watched the food network with their awful logo for several hours at a time. As of yet, I haven't had even the slightest bit of image retention. I've been very pleased. I was a bit nervous about the ir issue and was dreading the panic that it would induce, but so-far, no issues at all. I guess the point is that in using the proper break-in settings, you shouldn't have any problems
-Ben
2 Weeks now and no problems with my replacement Pioneer. No flicker and the panel has only cut off once which was on the 2nd day and has been fine ever since. One thing I have noticed is the fan on my Media Receiver on the 2/06 build was considerably quieter than the one on the 10/05 build.
Checked the service menu (thanks lhamp) and I'm almost to the 200 hour mark. I'm al little nervous about turning the contrast up past 25 because I did experience some image retention after a couple of hours playing Ghost Recon. Left the burn in disc on overnight and it was gone the next day.
TommmyJ 03-16-06, 03:00 PM I had to move my media receiver to another adjacent room due to the very annoying humming/vibrating sound. I tried everything to quiet it in order to keep it in the same room but it is almost impossible. I contacted Pioneer Canada and they told me that the fan noise was normal and they wouldn't do anything about it. They were complete asses about it and basically told me to get a new enclosed cabinet or live with it.
2 Weeks now and no problems with my replacement Pioneer. No flicker and the panel has only cut off once which was on the 2nd day and has been fine ever since. One thing I have noticed is the fan on my Media Receiver on the 2/06 build was considerably quieter than the one on the 10/05 build.
Checked the service menu (thanks lhamp) and I'm almost to the 200 hour mark. I'm al little nervous about turning the contrast up past 25 because I did experience some image retention after a couple of hours playing Ghost Recon. Left the burn in disc on overnight and it was gone the next day.
Rudyr... I wouldn't worry about bumping up your contrast to 30... especially if you've got 200 hours on your panel. Also...are you using a different input for games (namely "Game")?... you can always lower the contrast on any of the other inputs and keep it dedicated to gaming.
Yeah, I'm still using DNice's break in settings for cable / dvds and switch to "game" when ever I play video games. I left the "game" setting at defaults. I also set the power mode to standard. I'll go ahead and bump up the contrast to 30 for both the "game" and "user" setting.
I can't stress how impressed I am with the picture on this tv. I attached a couple of pictures I took of some hd and 360 games.
offthechizzain 03-16-06, 03:58 PM Whats the difference between the pio 4360 and 4361, I was looking at getting a panny th42px60u, but just not impressed with the PQ, I hoping its worth a few extra bucks to spend for a better picture, what do you think
Yeah, I'm still using DNice's break in settings for cable / dvds and switch to "game" when ever I play video games. I left the "game" setting at defaults. I also set the power mode to standard. I'll go ahead and bump up the contrast to 30 for both the "game" and "user" setting.
I can't stress how impressed I am with the picture on this tv. I attached a couple of pictures I took of some hd and 360 games.
if it were me I'd probably leave it at 25 for the "game" setting... just to be safe.
Gaming is probably the worst offender when it comes to IR... if you can live with the "game" setting on 25, I'd do that.
MaliciousBraham 03-16-06, 04:25 PM Whats the difference between the pio 4360 and 4361, I was looking at getting a panny th42px60u, but just not impressed with the PQ, I hoping its worth a few extra bucks to spend for a better picture, what do you think
61 models are only sold at best buy and include a wall mount. otherwise they are exactly the same as the 60's
unless you get the best buy employee discount, the 60's can be had for less pricewise (generally) online if you are comfortable with purchasing a plasma online. you can more than make up for the difference of the included wall mount.
but there is something to be said for buying from a local dealer, just in case you do run into some type of issue. I bought my elite local, and I'm glad I did. Even if I hadnt gotten the Elite (which cant be sold online) , I would have bought local anyway. Just for peace of mind.
if it were me I'd probably leave it at 25 for the "game" setting... just to be safe.
Gaming is probably the worst offender when it comes to IR... if you can live with the "game" setting on 25, I'd do that.
Sounds good. That's what I'll keep it on. Does anyone have any "after break-in" settings?
WilliWu 03-16-06, 05:31 PM Thanks for the info WilliWo, I'm sure Pioneer will fix it. I just wonder why other plasmas fans shut down when you power off. Not a big deal I guess. I'm one of those picky people who look for problems.
They are sexy, and the PQ is way up there.
Congrats sdrucker!
I think it's a matter of the features you have. TV Guide On Screen transmits the updates while the TV is in the standby and Cablecard has to be on all the time to keep your cable company happy. My commercial Panasonic has none of this and turns off completely in standby, but then I have to live with a cable box that runs 24/7 and is even louder than my Pioneer Media receiver. There is a lot of room for more intelligent system designs here, but that is in the future.
Everyone has been talking/reporting of stuck pixels but is there a way to FIX it? I have a 5060HD that is barely 2 months old. I have 2 stuck pixels. One is stuck on red all the time the other is stuck on black only when the background is blue.
I came across a program called UDPixel that supposedly fixes stuck pixels. Tried it on my lcd monitor but unfortunately (or should I say fortunately) I did not have a stuck pixel to try and fix.
Regardless I have tested this program on my monitor just to see what it does. It flashes a pattern of colors on the the pixel (you can actually pin point the pixel or cluster of pixels) to try and "wake" the pixel. You can also set how fast you want it to flash. It also comes with a test to check for stuck pixels behind several color back drops. I did some research and some people ran it for as little as 5 minutes, others for a couple hours and while some ran for days in order for the pixel to be fixed! Some claim that it worked and some said it didn't. What it seemed to me was this was for lcd monitors but this should work for plasmas too. Another tool I came across was fixdeadpixels (kinda of a misnomer since you can't fix dead pixels) but I haven't tried it yet. (Another program for Mac OSX is Dead Pixel Identifier 5.9.4 as well as another version for the Sony PSP as well)
Has anyone tried these software (via VGA input)? If so, was it successful? More importantly, is it safe to run on a plasma tv? I recently developed 2 stuck pixels on a 1.5 month tv but want a safe method to try and fix this. If its not safe or a waste of time then I can live with it.
Your thoughts appreciated
I have never heard of any software that can "fix" stuck pixels.
I had been looking very closely at the 5060 as the other choice besides the Panny but i was taken aback by what has been happening at my local BB recently. There are a group of 42" and 50" plasmas in an aisle with the 42" on one side and 50" on the other. There is the vegas.com loop that everyone has seen and one TV actually had IR of the vegas.com red arrow, and that was the Pioneer 5060. Granted, it went away after the next loop came on but what bothered me was that this particular TV has been running for two months. I don't know what this all means but none of the Panny's, Toshiba's, Zenith's, or Sammy's had this although in my local CC there is a Sammy with severe burn-in (it's permanent) from a Carlos Santana and friends DVD that plays around the clock. As one who watches many cable channels with logos and one who plans on connecting a PC this makes me nervous. I know about break in periods but from my eyes it still happens long after that.
Interesting as I've never seen any burnin or image retention on any Pioneer in my local BB or Tweeter. Perhaps the loop got stuck and was "static" overnight?
I just purchased the Pioneer Elite 1130 and am in need of some configuration help. Is their anywhere I can go to get advice on setting up the Plasma to get a good picture. I understand that I will have to adjust it a little, I really just need some advice for when I first begin watching it...I am a rookie looking to pop my cherry in the plasma world. Can anyone throw me some bones and help me get a head start. Ex. Black levels, when to use different viewing modes, and other settings that I should be aware of. Also, has anyone used the Cyron backlights? I just ordered those yesterday and was wondering if they are worth the $150.
Thanks
Brad Sloan
Sloanhaus
What type of Cable/Sat box do you have? DVD player? What else do you have connected to the 1130?
Question: I am very close to buying the Pio 930 and would like to know from owners of this plasma if they are happy with their set? Also, re the media receiver fan, does it shut off when you shut the tv off? Is it quiet? (I'm sensitive to noise) Pixels OK?
Right now either I wait for the new 42 pio's that I hear will have no more media boxes (good thing or not?) or wait for the new 42 Panny 600U's? Or should I go for the 930's?
Any advice is MUCH appreciated.
You questions can be answered if you read the last 10-15 pages ;)
For break in settings, use D-Nice or just dial down your contrast. I have mine down to 19 and it is still pretty bright. I am not doing any gaming on it until it has 100 hrs.
As far as the media receiver or display, I hear no fan or buzzing. The media receriver is behind glass in my EC.
The one thing I don't like is the hd inputs are on the same input.... so if I have my cable box on HDMI and component from my 360 & DVD player I have to deactivate the HDMI in order to use the componnet on the same input. I would of thought they would of added more inputs for HD.. it only has two .... right... two HDMI/Component inputs.
Picture is amazing.... I did not follow through on the upcoverting DVD player because of mb issues with some of them. I have my Sony Progressive DVD player hooked up with progressive turned off, the Pio's scaler does an incredible job. The scaler also does an excellent job with SD material on the basic cable channels.
Just got mine 1130 hooked up & quite please w/ the PQ so far. Just to tinker the features, can someone point me to D-Nice's setting for SA3250HD (Via component 480i under Movie-Cinema mode, please. Any other modes/setting would do fine. Don't wanna go through another 105 pages, again :(
Cheers,
TP
Picture is amazing.... I did not follow through on the upcoverting DVD player because of mb issues with some of them. I have my Sony Progressive DVD player hooked up with progressive turned off, the Pio's scaler does an incredible job. The scaler also does an excellent job with SD material on the basic cable channels.
I'm not sure if it's my dvd player or what, but when I set it to 480i, it throws off the black level. It's as if black is more grayish. But when I set the dvd player to 480p the blacks look black. I'm using a Sony DVP-NS715P hooked up via component. I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong, because I'm thinking the scaler in the tv has to be better than the one in my $150 dvd player.
Hello, Could anyone that has OTA HD station hooked up to their Pioneer tell me that when viewing the digital channel, for content that is original shot in 4:3, is there still side bar on the screen even after the stretch mode? Thanks.
NemoZorro 03-17-06, 09:45 AM Just got mine 1130 hooked up & quite please w/ the PQ so far. Just to tinker the features, can someone point me to D-Nice's setting for SA3250HD (Via component 480i under Movie-Cinema mode, please. Any other modes/setting would do fine. Don't wanna go through another 105 pages, again :(
Cheers,
TP
Just as a tip for those looking for information in this thread or others - the search feature, especially the advanced search, can provide the information you are looking for in a snap - without having to wade thru hundereds of pages.
It's not perfect, but gives you a great way to narrow down information.
Hope that helps. :)
scottb8888 03-17-06, 09:59 AM Hello, Could anyone that has OTA HD station hooked up to their Pioneer tell me that when viewing the digital channel, for content that is original shot in 4:3, is there still side bar on the screen even after the stretch mode? Thanks.
Yep same thing happens to me. I hope that does not hurt the TV?
Yep same thing happens to me. I hope that does not hurt the TV?
The stations broadcast a 16:9 image which is really a 4:3 picture with side bars attached (still, it's being read as 16:9).
When that's the case, you can get rid of the bars by using the "wide" mode.
Sounds good. That's what I'll keep it on. Does anyone have any "after break-in" settings?
Boost your contrast from 25 to 30.
Voila! You've got "after break-in" settings.
Thanks again lhamp. You and D-Nice have been very helpful. I watched some Discovery HD last night and they had some show with gorillas on it and whenever one of them would walk up to the camera my 1 year old would run away, probably thinking they were going to come out of the tv.
The Hornet 03-18-06, 11:53 AM Ok folks, I have decided that unless something drastic happens I am going to purchase the Pioneer pdp-4360 or 4361 from Best Buy or somewhere else. I am familiar with the prices at several on-line stores and realize that the internet has better pricing, but it would be easier on my mind IF something did happen to the unit that it could be taken back to a local BB or another local store that carries this particular model.
First however, I would like to know if any current owners of this model PDP would change your mind after purchasing it, and for what reason. Are there any glitches that I should look out for on this model, or items I should be aware of before or during my potential ownership. I have gone thru this thread quit a bit lately, but it is so massive that I cannot possibly hope to understand all the information listed in it.
What speifically IS the warranty from Pioneer? Is it one year IN-HOME service or what? I will be regardless, purchasing the unit with a major credit car, of which I can double the manufactures warranty. That will give me two years to purchase a separate extended warrant after that.
This is a major purchase for me, as it probably was/is for all of you. The wife likes this model over the other Silver bezeled Panny's, of which I was trying to decide between, and even though the BB price versus the somewhat comparable Panny's new model TH-42PX60U is a bit more, and has just barely hit the floors, we both like the slick look of the all black bezel and other features as well, of this particular Pioneer model, including the PIP.
Please feel free to bring-up any circumstance that you think might be of interest to me, or made aware of. I will hopefully be making the purchase either next week, or the week following that.
Again, that you for all the information that I have found in this thread. I am looking forward to some responses from current, or previous owners of this PDP model.
Thanks for the feedback mml7. I have to agree that the 50" display would overwhelm the Twin but I think would look great on the the Triple. One thing I'm finding difficult to assess is the finish. I had initially been considering the Studiotech units and ordered the sample wood blocks ($5 shipped, a no brainer) to have a better look. Glad I did as I quickly dismissed their black and was a little disappointed in their rosewood (real lack of grain). I guess since Salamander is sold thru dealers I may have the ability to see the various wood finishes in person but it's so hit & miss as to what dealers have which finishes available to view (if any). I wish Salamander also offered a reasonably priced "swatch" program to help preview the possibilities. From the online pic's I'm waffling between walnut and cherry (though would embrace a quality piano black in a heartbeat).
Hey Karl-
Been spending too much time in front of the TV and not enough in front of the computer :)
I currently have the 1130 sitting on a makeshift stand-- an old 3' wide kitchen cabinet. I think you're right about overwhelming (visually) the Twin 20 as I don't think it'll look right when the stand and TV are the same width. I'll be going with black on silver to match the current Salamander stuff I have, though I considered going with the cherry finish. I'm probably not going to spring the extra $500 for the Salmander plasma mount though; That's a bit too rich for my blood.
-mike
WilliWu 03-18-06, 02:28 PM Ok folks, I have decided that unless something drastic happens I am going to purchase the Pioneer pdp-4360 or 4361 from Best Buy or somewhere else. I am familiar with the prices at several on-line stores and realize that the internet has better pricing, but it would be easier on my mind IF something did happen to the unit that it could be taken back to a local BB or another local store that carries this particular model.
First however, I would like to know if any current owners of this model PDP would change your mind after purchasing it, and for what reason. Are there any glitches that I should look out for on this model, or items I should be aware of before or during my potential ownership. I have gone thru this thread quit a bit lately, but it is so massive that I cannot possibly hope to understand all the information listed in it.
What speifically IS the warranty from Pioneer? Is it one year IN-HOME service or what? I will be regardless, purchasing the unit with a major credit car, of which I can double the manufactures warranty. That will give me two years to purchase a separate extended warrant after that.
This is a major purchase for me, as it probably was/is for all of you. The wife likes this model over the other Silver bezeled Panny's, of which I was trying to decide between, and even though the BB price versus the somewhat comparable Panny's new model TH-42PX60U is a bit more, and has just barely hit the floors, we both like the slick look of the all black bezel and other features as well, of this particular Pioneer model, including the PIP.
Please feel free to bring-up any circumstance that you think might be of interest to me, or made aware of. I will hopefully be making the purchase either next week, or the week following that.
Again, that you for all the information that I have found in this thread. I am looking forward to some responses from current, or previous owners of this PDP model.
The Pioneer warranty is in-home. I purchased my TV from an authorized internet dealer and see no reason to spend the extra bucks for a local B&M dealer
I have both a Pioneer PDP4360 and a Panasonic 50PHD6UY and no one has ever expressed a preference for one over the other in terms of picture quality. Both are great.
I also hate the appearance of the consumer Panasonics, but the commercial models are another story. I like their plain narrow bezel appearance even better than the Pioneer. Have your wife take a look at some of the many on-line pictures.
If you will be using a cable or satellite box, I would suggest the Panasonic commercial from an on-line dealer. The only negative here is that the Pany commercials do not come with in-home service. Check to see what your local authorized service company charges for an in-home visit and decide whether you want to self-insure or buy an in-home warranty. If you are not using cable or satellite and need a tuner, I would suggest the Pioneer from an authorized on-line dealer. Either approach will save you a significant amount of money and get you a great TV.
George SSSS 03-18-06, 02:39 PM With the 1130hd, if I use a splitter to divide my cable tv signal in two, can I connect both to the media box and see two programs simultaneously with picture-in-picture function?
If the answer is "no," can I do it if one signal goes through a VCR and I use the tuner in that for the second signal.
Sometimes I like to watch one sporting event and simultaneously keep track of another via P-in-P.
Thanks,
George SSSS
With the 1130hd, if I use a splitter to divide my cable tv signal in two, can I connect both to the media box and see two programs simultaneously with picture-in-picture function?
If the answer is "no," can I do it if one signal goes through a VCR and I use the tuner in that for the second signal.
Sometimes I like to watch one sporting event and simultaneously keep track of another via P-in-P.
Thanks,
George SSSS
What cable box do you have? With the SA8300 no splitting in necessary... it has p-in-p built-in, as I'd imagine most DVR boxes do.
Viventis 03-18-06, 03:06 PM With the 1130hd, if I use a splitter to divide my cable tv signal in two, can I connect both to the media box and see two programs simultaneously with picture-in-picture function?
If the answer is "no," can I do it if one signal goes through a VCR and I use the tuner in that for the second signal.
Sometimes I like to watch one sporting event and simultaneously keep track of another via P-in-P.
Thanks,
George SSSS
If it helps, I was watching PIP of 2 NCAA basketball games last night, one from Charter cable connected to Input #1, the other from my OTA antenna. I have a 5060 but that should not make a difference.
George SSSS 03-18-06, 06:21 PM What cable box do you have? With the SA8300 no splitting in necessary... it has p-in-p built-in, as I'd imagine most DVR boxes do.
lhamp:
I have a "Motorola MOXI Broadband Media Center" from Adelphia. I didn't see anything on the back that looked like it would support p-in-p. I suppose I could split off the signal before it goes into the cable box.
George SSSS 03-18-06, 06:22 PM If it helps, I was watching PIP of 2 NCAA basketball games last night, one from Charter cable connected to Input #1, the other from my OTA antenna. I have a 5060 but that should not make a difference.
Sounds like that makes sense.
lhamp:
I have a "Motorola MOXI Broadband Media Center" from Adelphia. I didn't see anything on the back that looked like it would support p-in-p. I suppose I could split off the signal before it goes into the cable box.
Doesn't that box do pip on it's own?... I mean... doesn't it say picture in picture on the remote?
I'm not sure you need to split any feeds... the box is a dual tuner dvr... isn't it?
The P-i-P from the SA8300 is the small box PIP right? I have that same box. Well sort of.... I have the Explorer 8300 HD DVR box. I would love to watch the PIP function with 2 half screens (somewhat) instead of that little annoying box sitting on top of the other picture.
How do I achieve that with the Explorer 8300 HD DVR box and my 5050?
Is there a way to get a true "split-screen" view at 50/50 with the Pio?
EDIT:: I figured out my problem with the sizes... I am running my Explorer box fixed at 1080i and therefore the screen sizes are different when doing split screen. If I enable 480i etc then the split screen is the same size as say Antenna or my DVD input etc.
When I enable multiple modes on the cable box there is a pause when changing from a regular channel to a hidef channel because it turns on 1080i in the cable box for the HD channels and then switchs back to 480i for the regular channels.
Can you guys provide suggests as to what mode is the "best" 1080i, 720p, 480i, 480p etc.?
I can also set the same mode on my DVD player if need be... I currently have the DVD set at 720p.
Any suggestions?
Curtis
The P-i-P from the SA8300 is the small box PIP right? I have that same box. Well sort of.... I have the Explorer 8300 HD DVR box. I would love to watch the PIP function with 2 half screens (somewhat) instead of that little annoying box sitting on top of the other picture.
How do I achieve that with the Explorer 8300 HD DVR box and my 5050?
Is there a way to get a true "split-screen" view at 50/50 with the Pio?
EDIT:: I figured out my problem with the sizes... I am running my Explorer box fixed at 1080i and therefore the screen sizes are different when doing split screen. If I enable 480i etc then the split screen is the same size as say Antenna or my DVD input etc.
When I enable multiple modes on the cable box there is a pause when changing from a regular channel to a hidef channel because it turns on 1080i in the cable box for the HD channels and then switchs back to 480i for the regular channels.
Can you guys provide suggests as to what mode is the "best" 1080i, 720p, 480i, 480p etc.?
I can also set the same mode on my DVD player if need be... I currently have the DVD set at 720p.
Any suggestions?
Curtis
You should enable all the modes on your cable box, thereby passing the signal through in its native form and letting the pioneer do all scaling.
For my dvd player, I use 720p as well... i've found that gives the best PQ.
G-Mack Tech 03-18-06, 11:53 PM Hello all. I just got my 1130hd delivered today, 3/18/06. I had ordered it at Best Buy Magnolia Home Theater exactly one month ago. Since I had all this spare time, I sat down and read all 107 pages of this thread. Now that I got my TV, I have a few questions of my own.
My setup consists of:
TV: Pioneer TV (PRO-1130HD)
DVD - Samsung DVD (DVD-HD950) just till i can afford Pioneer (DV-79AVi)
AV Receiver - Pioneer AV Receiver (VSX-74TXVI)
Satellite - DirecTV Satellite (H-20)
PVR - Pioneer DVD Recorder (DVR-57H)
Mac mini to come soon connected by DVI-HDMI
Everything is connected via HDMI, except the DVR which is component. My first problem is if I plug the Satellite into the AV Receiver via HDMI, as soon as the TV is powered on, the Satellite reboots and just keeps rebooting. I am now on my 3rd Satellite box so I’m fairly certain it is not the satellite box. If I plug the satellite box in to HDMI into the media receiver, all is fine but then I do not have sound via the AV Receiver. I ran an optical out from Satellite into the AV Receiver but there is a slight lag in the sound. If I had to, I could live with it, but would like to know your thoughts.
My second problem is I am in the same boat as ssabripo. We have a 5-month-old in the house and I cannot always have the system blasting, and I can’t seem to get sound out to the TV with the DVD player from the AV Receiver via HDMI. I was under the impression the sound that comes from the HDMI to the AV Receiver would then also pass through to the media receiver so I could just hit the kill switch on the speakers from the AV and then have sound out the 1130 speakers. Is this possible, or do I have to run composite cables in from the DVD player to the 1130?
My last question concerns the settings that the great D-Nice has posted:
Main Menu:
AV Selection: Pure
Contrast: 25
Brightness: -1
Color: 0
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -2
Pro Adjust
Pure Cinema: ADV
Color Detail:
Color Temp: Manual
R High: -4
G High: -5
B High: -2
R Low: -4
G Low: -5
B Low: -6
CTI: Off
Color Management:
R: -1
Y: -5
G: -7
C: +6
B: -2
M: -1
NR:
DNR: Off
MPEG NR: Low
DRE:
DRE: High
Black Level: On
ACL: Off
Gamma: 2
Others:
I-P Mode: 1
Make sure you change the Power Save mode to save2.
I cannot find these settings. My guess is, it is because I am using HDMI not component.
Color Detail:
Color Temp: Manual
R High: -4
G High: -5
B High: -2
R Low: -4
G Low: -5
B Low: -6
In the last few pages I read a lot about the power save opt. For now I am using power save 2. d-Nice, do you think it is ok to change it to standard after the 100 or 1000 hour break-in? Only because I read that it is not just a picture quality setting, it also has to do with power and how well things will run.
Other then that…d-Nice, did you ever get your 1130???
I would like to send out my thanks to all the members here. You have all played a crucial part in helping me switch from my first choice of a Samsung HP-R5072. After reading about it here and going to see one in person, all I can say is WOW, am I glad I didn’t make that mistake…IMOP
PAnoah6791 03-19-06, 12:11 AM I've got a couple of questions for all you experts regarding my 4360... first off, the other day, I was playing PS2 (I know :eek: ), and wanted to put the ACC Championship (HD feed via HDMI from my comcast box), on PIP or split screen, but when I pushed the split button, it automatically put the second part of the screen on ANT A. I pushed swap so that was the active input, and tried to the second input to my cable box, but it said "cannot change input source". I tried it in reverse order as well, what am I doing wrong :confused: 2nd, does the "picture off" function actually turn the screen off, or just leave it on an all black (or shade of gray) screen? Because since the only speakers (for now) in the room with my TV are on my TV, and it would be nice to be able to play music once in a while, and we can do it through the DVD player or the radio feeds from the cable box, but both of those leave either static images or black on the screen, it will burn in. If I use the picture off function will I be ok, or will that just burn my whole screen black?
Thanks
just wanted to bump this up and see if anyone had an answer...
G-Mack Tech 03-19-06, 12:37 AM Just got mine 1130 hooked up & quite please w/ the PQ so far. Just to tinker the features, can someone point me to D-Nice's setting for SA3250HD (Via component 480i under Movie-Cinema mode, please. Any other modes/setting would do fine. Don't wanna go through another 105 pages, again :(
Cheers,
TP
post #2758 has the answer you speak of
I've got a couple of questions for all you experts regarding my 4360... first off, the other day, I was playing PS2 (I know :eek: ), and wanted to put the ACC Championship (HD feed via HDMI from my comcast box), on PIP or split screen, but when I pushed the split button, it automatically put the second part of the screen on ANT A. I pushed swap so that was the active input, and tried to the second input to my cable box, but it said "cannot change input source". I tried it in reverse order as well, what am I doing wrong :confused: 2nd, does the "picture off" function actually turn the screen off, or just leave it on an all black (or shade of gray) screen? Because since the only speakers (for now) in the room with my TV are on my TV, and it would be nice to be able to play music once in a while, and we can do it through the DVD player or the radio feeds from the cable box, but both of those leave either static images or black on the screen, it will burn in. If I use the picture off function will I be ok, or will that just burn my whole screen black?
for the first question, i don't think what you're trying is possible. with PIP, you can do either ANT A/ANT B, or some ANT/AV combination, but not AV/AV.
as for the second question: i've never tried it, but it should be obvious from looking at the screen up close. with a plasma on, there's no such thing as "black". if it's on, all the pixels will be lit at a low level, and the screen kind of "shimmers".
Viventis 03-19-06, 09:36 AM Doesn't that box do pip on it's own?... I mean... doesn't it say picture in picture on the remote?
I'm not sure you need to split any feeds... the box is a dual tuner dvr... isn't it?
My Motorola Moxi box is a dual tuner DVR, but it has no PIP option on the remote, nor is there mention of it in the instructions.
Everything is connected via HDMI, except the DVR which is component. My first problem is if I plug the Satellite into the AV Receiver via HDMI, as soon as the TV is powered on, the Satellite reboots and just keeps rebooting. I am now on my 3rd Satellite box so I’m fairly certain it is not the satellite box. If I plug the satellite box in to HDMI into the media receiver, all is fine but then I do not have sound via the AV Receiver. I ran an optical out from Satellite into the AV Receiver but there is a slight lag in the sound. If I had to, I could live with it, but would like to know your thoughts.
Sounds like HDMI handshake problems. There have been numerous reports about those "wonderful" HDMI switching receivers not working with other devices. Your best bet is to connect your STB to the 1130's MR. You will need to adjust the speaker delay on the receiver to correct the lag problem......have you use the auto EQ feature on your receiver?
My second problem is I am in the same boat as ssabripo. We have a 5-month-old in the house and I cannot always have the system blasting, and I can’t seem to get sound out to the TV with the DVD player from the AV Receiver via HDMI. I was under the impression the sound that comes from the HDMI to the AV Receiver would then also pass through to the media receiver so I could just hit the kill switch on the speakers from the AV and then have sound out the 1130 speakers. Is this possible, or do I have to run composite cables in from the DVD player to the 1130?
You might want to read the manuals of your components to see if it requires PCM sound to be transferred to the 1130 thru HDMI.
My last question concerns the settings that the great D-Nice has posted:
In the last few pages I read a lot about the power save opt. For now I am using power save 2. d-Nice, do you think it is ok to change it to standard after the 100 or 1000 hour break-in? Only because I read that it is not just a picture quality setting, it also has to do with power and how well things will run.
Yes you can switch it to Standard after the 100-200 hour break-in.
Other then that…d-Nice, did you ever get your 1130???
Wifey has approved the purchase of 2 Pioneer 1130's for the new house :D Unfortunately, the house will not be completed for another 2-2.5 months :(......AND I'll be selling my 930 this week, so I'm going to be ass-out of a Pioneer for over 2 months....YIKES!!!!!!
Please remember that the setting you posted are for a SA8300 cable box. You can try these settings for your Sat box as they should be more "neutral". Also, to access the manual color temp controls you will hold down the select button, while "manual" has been selected, for 3 or more seconds. If you have any problems accessing those controls, please refer to the manual.
Main Menu:
AV Selection: Pure
Contrast: 25
Brightness: -1
Color: +3
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -2
Pro Adjust
Pure Cinema: ADV or Off
Color Detail:
Color Temp: Manual
R High: -5
G High: -4
B High: -3
R Low: -4
G Low: -5
B Low: -6
CTI: On
Color Management:
R: -1
Y: -5
G: -7
C: +6
B: -2
M: -1
NR:
DNR: Off
MPEG NR: Low
DRE:
DRE: High or Mid
Black Level: Off
ACL: Off
Gamma: 2
Others:
I-P Mode: 1
G-Mack Tech 03-19-06, 10:53 AM You might want to read the manuals of your components to see if it requires PCM sound to be transferred to the 1130 thru HDMI.
thanks for the reply with out having to read the manuals if it does require PCM Sound what do i do to make this happen?
thanks again
thanks for the reply with out having to read the manuals if it does require PCM Sound what do i do to make this happen?
thanks again
Just change the output on the device to PCM. It may need to be done on the receiver side.
G-Mack Tech 03-19-06, 11:15 AM Just change the output on the device to PCM. It may need to be done on the receiver side.
Works thanks ok I guess I will now use my 100-200 hours of braking time to read the manuals I am new to all of this stuff I am a big pc geek but when it comes to AV I am lost
just a caution to every one I used the breaking svcd that can be found on this forum and it some how froze on me last night while I was sleeping on a blue gray screen don’t think it did any damage but for the 1st 1/2 the day in my head I thought every thing I was watching seamed hazy probably because I only had 3 hours sleep must watch TV
You should enable all the modes on your cable box, thereby passing the signal through in its native form and letting the pioneer do all scaling.
For my dvd player, I use 720p as well... i've found that gives the best PQ.
If I am passing all the native signals from my cable box by enabling all the formats, what will the Pio scale to? Where do I set this scaling? As far as I can see it, the Pio, displays the 480i / 1080i / 720 etc as I change channels on the cable box. So the screen takes about 3 sec to "reset" itself everytime the "format" changes from channel to channel. Within the same "mode" there is no pause at all.
Is there a way to lock the Pio into 1080i or 720p only so it upconverts everything?
One last question.... do all plasmas display 768p... I saw this recently and it is new to me. is it something I should be worried about. I am buying another new plasma ... either new Pio or NEC in the next 2 months and want the best of the best.
Thanks.
Curtis
Hello, Could anyone that has OTA HD station hooked up to their Pioneer tell me that when viewing the digital channel, for content that is original shot in 4:3, is there still side bar on the screen even after the stretch mode? Thanks.
I have just tried this to answer your question. There was numerous digital material that is on OTA now, I picked an ABC sports show. The HD station is broadcasting it in 4:3. The only screen size mode that will fill the screen is "Wide" mode. I have about 120 hours on my 1130 and still will use Zoom or Wide mode to fill the screen.
The local UPN digital station broadcasts repeats of Star Trek Enterprise Saturday nights. A show originally broadcast in 1:85 to 1. I never saw it then in HD as I didn't have a TV that could do HD yet. But I have watched the Enterprise DVD's on the new 1130 in "full" mode and it fills the screen very nicely. In looking at the repeats on UPN digital OTA of Enterprise, it is window boxed, I cannot zoom or stretch the image to fill the screen. There are black bars left, right, top and bottom.
CHolleman 03-19-06, 12:47 PM If I am passing all the native signals from my cable box by enabling all the formats, what will the Pio scale to? Where do I set this scaling? As far as I can see it, the Pio, displays the 480i / 1080i / 720 etc as I change channels on the cable box. So the screen takes about 3 sec to "reset" itself everytime the "format" changes from channel to channel. Within the same "mode" there is no pause at all.
Is there a way to lock the Pio into 1080i or 720p only so it upconverts everything?
One last question.... do all plasmas display 768p... I saw this recently and it is new to me. is it something I should be worried about. I am buying another new plasma ... either new Pio or NEC in the next 2 months and want the best of the best.
Thanks.
Curtis
i have satellite, but it's the same principle. in the menu for the STB, find the setting to turn "native" off. with it on, if i switch from SD to HD, then there's a long delay while the box switches resolutions. it's not the tv that's doing the pausing. i prefer to leave mine on 1080i. i know a lot of people say that the scaler in the panel is better (and i don't doubt them), but i see more mosquito noise and graininess when viewing SD with the box outputting 480i. i know it goes against what everyone says, but that's me.
MtStPipier 03-19-06, 12:49 PM Noobie here. Thanks for such a great forum.
I've had my 5060 for about two months now. Fantastic PQ. Have it set to D-Nice's break in settings, and am just about at 200 hours. Notice minor IR after 3+ hours with a logo, but it always goes away eventually.
This weekend I noticed a strip across the bottom of the glass about a centimeter high. It looks as if the glass is more reflective there or something. Creates very obvious glare there during the day. At night, the blacks are a little less dark along that strip. The really interesting thing is, you can see the strip even when the TV is turned off, as if it's the glass itself. I may have had this all along and just not noticed it because I usually only watch it during at night, where the effect is muted.
Anyone hear of anything like this? I'll post a photo of it if I can get it to come out on a picture.
Pipier
Noobie here. Thanks for such a great forum.
I've had my 5060 for about two months now. Fantastic PQ. Have it set to D-Nice's break in settings, and am just about at 200 hours. Notice minor IR after 3+ hours with a logo, but it always goes away eventually.
This weekend I noticed a strip across the bottom of the glass about a centimeter high. It looks as if the glass is more reflective there or something. Creates very obvious glare there during the day. At night, the blacks are a little less dark along that strip. The really interesting thing is, you can see the strip even when the TV is turned off, as if it's the glass itself. I may have had this all along and just not noticed it because I usually only watch it during at night, where the effect is muted.
Anyone hear of anything like this? I'll post a photo of it if I can get it to come out on a picture.
Pipier
Sorry to say but it sounds like a defect with the glass. I don't see anything like what you are talking about on my 1130. If it is bothersome I would definitely call Pioneer.
i have satellite, but it's the same principle. in the menu for the STB, find the setting to turn "native" off. with it on, if i switch from SD to HD, then there's a long delay while the box switches resolutions. it's not the tv that's doing the pausing. i prefer to leave mine on 1080i. i know a lot of people say that the scaler in the panel is better (and i don't doubt them), but i see more mosquito noise and graininess when viewing SD with the box outputting 480i. i know it goes against what everyone says, but that's me.
Ok, I think I got ya. On my cable box the options are Auto DVI/HDMI, Upconvert 1, Upconvert 2, and FIXED. When I leave it on Auto it passes like you mentioned as it switches resolutions. Once I place it on FIXED, it actually locks on whatever the CURRENT resolution for the channel I was viewing and then everything comes out that way.
So what I did was put it in FIXED while I was watching a HD channel (1080i) and everything is now at 1080i using the Pio scaler.... I think.
Man this is confusing.
Curtis
i have satellite, but it's the same principle. in the menu for the STB, find the setting to turn "native" off. with it on, if i switch from SD to HD, then there's a long delay while the box switches resolutions. it's not the tv that's doing the pausing. i prefer to leave mine on 1080i. i know a lot of people say that the scaler in the panel is better (and i don't doubt them), but i see more mosquito noise and graininess when viewing SD with the box outputting 480i. i know it goes against what everyone says, but that's me.
Not everyone. I leave my STB at 1080i for all channels.
And let the pio take care of business.
George SSSS 03-19-06, 07:32 PM My Motorola Moxi box is a dual tuner DVR, but it has no PIP option on the remote, nor is there mention of it in the instructions.
Ditto. Sounds like you've got to split the cable signal and go int Ant A and Ant B (is there such a thing on 1130hd?) or Ant A and through a VCR to AV input.
I'm guessing here. Does anyone know?
scrosenb 03-19-06, 11:19 PM I have read the last few postings above that provided various breakin settings (by D-Nice, whom I assume is a serious audio/videophile), but am a bit confused as to where to start.
I am expecting to recieve my Pioneer 5060 from an online authorized retailer tomorrow. I am a big audio/video junky and have been researching this purchase for a long time. Finally I was able to pull the trigger and actually buy one after we found a nice piece of furniture to mount it over. I am planning to attach the 5060 to a comcast digital HD DVR box, an XBox via component input and a toshiba dvd progressive scan DVD player.
A few general questions. I have read a lot about going through 'break-in periods'. How long is an initial breakin period? And, what settings should I use, those listed above in your previous listing? Should I make sure during the breakin period to not watch any programming that has black bars on the tops or side of the screen? Also, how can I monitor the monitor's hours used? After the initial breakin settings are used for the breakin period (how long should I run a breaking period?), how do I change them to normal viewing settings (just raise the contrast level after?).
Sorry, I do realize that this posting is a long one, but how can I use my new 5060 with PIP capabilities? I only have the equipment listed above, but I can add a VCR with a tuner if needed. But, can I do PIP without the tuner from my reciever? Does the Comcast Digital Cable DVR box have two tuners built in? If so, do I just feed two different outputs into the Pioneer 5060 monitor? Also, If the two tuners can come from my comcast digital hd dvr, how can I change the channels between the two PIP programs?
I know that I have many questions, but it would be a huge help if anyone can help me out. I notices everyone quoting postings and advice from D-Nice, so I figured he could help me out. But, if anyone else has any answers to my questions, please help! Thanks to everyone who has created this amazing resource. I have been glued ot this thread for over a week now, reading everything. Great job to everyone involved, it really helps and informs many people.
Bagel123 03-19-06, 11:20 PM I’ve read bits and pieces about the DNR feature but did want to clarify its use/benefits with the more experienced here. I am sitting approx 10 feet away from my 1130. At times I don’t notice the screen noise, and at others, it can be distracting, even from this viewing distance. Closer up is of course worse. I was watching basketball ESPN-HD on a friend’s DLP, and although my floor seat did cause loss of brightness, I was actually quite impressed by the clarity and lack of noise on the screen from about 5 feet. Overall I am pleased with the 1130's picture quality from a normal viewing distance but am just looking for thoughts on this issue with the 1130 or plasmas in general.
Oh by the way, I tried to use an Avia disc. Now that I have tried to use it, I admit I do not have the patience for it given the settings D-Nice has posted. However, I was shocked that this disc was the cause of the first image retention I’ve seen since first firing up the tv 3 weeks ago. I am using D-Nice’s break in settings. If you are familiar with the Avia disc, you recall that some of the video calibration sub-menus have thick white borders on them – this was the cause of the retention, and I was not even using it for that long. Anyway, I think it went away after some normal tv viewing, but has anyone else had no image retention problems but then had something cause such a significant one after a short viewing period? It is making me a little paranoid, and the wife is now questioning the purchase (are we going to have to be this careful for eternity…).
ssabripo 03-19-06, 11:30 PM Hello all. I just got my 1130hd delivered today, 3/18/06. I had ordered it at Best Buy Magnolia Home Theater exactly one month ago. Since I had all this spare time, I sat down and read all 107 pages of this thread. Now that I got my TV, I have a few questions of my own.
My setup consists of:
TV: Pioneer TV (PRO-1130HD)
DVD - Samsung DVD (DVD-HD950) just till i can afford Pioneer (DV-79AVi)
AV Receiver - Pioneer AV Receiver (VSX-74TXVI)
Satellite - DirecTV Satellite (H-20)
PVR - Pioneer DVD Recorder (DVR-57H)
Mac mini to come soon connected by DVI-HDMI
Everything is connected via HDMI, except the DVR which is component. My first problem is if I plug the Satellite into the AV Receiver via HDMI, as soon as the TV is powered on, the Satellite reboots and just keeps rebooting. I am now on my 3rd Satellite box so I’m fairly certain it is not the satellite box. If I plug the satellite box in to HDMI into the media receiver, all is fine but then I do not have sound via the AV Receiver. I ran an optical out from Satellite into the AV Receiver but there is a slight lag in the sound. If I had to, I could live with it, but would like to know your thoughts.
My second problem is I am in the same boat as ssabripo. We have a 5-month-old in the house and I cannot always have the system blasting, and I can’t seem to get sound out to the TV with the DVD player from the AV Receiver via HDMI. I was under the impression the sound that comes from the HDMI to the AV Receiver would then also pass through to the media receiver so I could just hit the kill switch on the speakers from the AV and then have sound out the 1130 speakers. Is this possible, or do I have to run composite cables in from the DVD player to the 1130?
My last question concerns the settings that the great D-Nice has posted:
Main Menu:
AV Selection: Pure
Contrast: 25
Brightness: -1
Color: 0
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -2
Pro Adjust
Pure Cinema: ADV
Color Detail:
Color Temp: Manual
R High: -4
G High: -5
B High: -2
R Low: -4
G Low: -5
B Low: -6
CTI: Off
Color Management:
R: -1
Y: -5
G: -7
C: +6
B: -2
M: -1
NR:
DNR: Off
MPEG NR: Low
DRE:
DRE: High
Black Level: On
ACL: Off
Gamma: 2
Others:
I-P Mode: 1
Make sure you change the Power Save mode to save2.
I cannot find these settings. My guess is, it is because I am using HDMI not component.
Color Detail:
Color Temp: Manual
R High: -4
G High: -5
B High: -2
R Low: -4
G Low: -5
B Low: -6
In the last few pages I read a lot about the power save opt. For now I am using power save 2. d-Nice, do you think it is ok to change it to standard after the 100 or 1000 hour break-in? Only because I read that it is not just a picture quality setting, it also has to do with power and how well things will run.
Other then that…d-Nice, did you ever get your 1130???
I would like to send out my thanks to all the members here. You have all played a crucial part in helping me switch from my first choice of a Samsung HP-R5072. After reading about it here and going to see one in person, all I can say is WOW, am I glad I didn’t make that mistake…IMOP
I was about to answer these questions, but D-nice did a nice job: here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7334707&&#post7334707)
scrosenb 03-19-06, 11:45 PM I have read the last few postings above that provided various breakin settings (by D-Nice, whom I assume is a serious audio/videophile), but am a bit confused as to where to start.
I am expecting to recieve my Pioneer 5060 from an online authorized retailer tomorrow. I am a big audio/video junky and have been researching this purchase for a long time. Finally I was able to pull the trigger and actually buy one after we found a nice piece of furniture to mount it over. I am planning to attach the 5060 to a comcast digital HD DVR box, an XBox via component input and a toshiba dvd progressive scan DVD player.
A few general questions. I have read a lot about going through 'break-in periods'. How long is an initial breakin period? And, what settings should I use, those listed above in your previous listing? Should I make sure during the breakin period to not watch any programming that has black bars on the tops or side of the screen? Also, how can I monitor the monitor's hours used? After the initial breakin settings are used for the breakin period (how long should I run a breaking period?), how do I change them to normal viewing settings (just raise the contrast level after?).
Sorry, I do realize that this posting is a long one, but how can I use my new 5060 with PIP capabilities? I only have the equipment listed above, but I can add a VCR with a tuner if needed. But, can I do PIP without the tuner from my reciever? Does the Comcast Digital Cable DVR box have two tuners built in? If so, do I just feed two different outputs into the Pioneer 5060 monitor? Also, If the two tuners can come from my comcast digital hd dvr, how can I change the channels between the two PIP programs?
I know that I have many questions, but it would be a huge help if anyone can help me out. I notices everyone quoting postings and advice from D-Nice, so I figured he could help me out. But, if anyone else has any answers to my questions, please help! Thanks to everyone who has created this amazing resource. I have been glued ot this thread for over a week now, reading everything. Great job to everyone involved, it really helps and informs many people.
One more question, sorry for the followup. Does anyone know if a comcast digital cable HD DVR box come with an HDMI output or not (they are using a Motorola box). I see some specs only indicating a DVI and component output capabilities for one of the motorola boxes, but I think I remember the Comcast lady saying I could get a digital dvr cable box that has an HDMI output. Can anybody advise?
Jason Priestley 03-20-06, 12:29 AM Oh man, please talk me back into getting the 1130HD. I mean, I've been obsessed with the TV for months now and it certainly has this very classy look. However, now that the Panny 50inch 60U is out at literally $2000 cheaper (MSRP wise), displays more colors I believe and has a better black level can i justify the 1130HD purchase? Talk some sense into me!!! The panny 60u does have this cheap plastic look to it compared to 1130HD (even the 5060HD) which have this grand piano black glossy look (mighty sharp imo). Sigh....what to do...what to do....DO any models come with mounting brackets...that could help close the gap in price.
kucharsk 03-20-06, 06:59 AM Don't forget the 1130HD's resolution of 1280x768 vs. the Panasonic's of 1366x768.
But the bottom line is to view both, and if the picture on the Panasonic makes you happy, get it as you'll be kicking yourself for spending the extra money for the Pioneer. On the other hand, if you prefer the picture on the Pioneer, its aesthetics or want a media box, the 1130HD is the way to go…
WilliWu 03-20-06, 08:09 AM After two weeks with a Pioneer 4360 in one room and a two-year-old Panasonic 50PHD6UY in another, no one has yet expressed a preference to the PQ of one over the other. Both are great TVs, but I have a surround system hooked up to the Panasonic which has made it my choice for most of the NCAA tourney. Haven't seen the new Panasonic 60s, but if there has been any improvement at all, I can't imagine the PQ of the Pioneer justifying a big premium. Features and appearance are another story. CableCard, Media Box, slick appearance are the things that favor Pioneer. While the appearance of the consumer Panasonics alone would prevent me from going in that direction, I find the commercial panasonics to be even sleeker than the Pioneer, and would have gone in that direction if the new TV had not been in a spot where I did not want a cable box and surround system. Bottom line for me is that PQ is so good in both sets that it comes down to features and appearance.
kidziti 03-20-06, 08:13 AM It might also be a good idea to see where each is manufactured. Our 1130HD (a February build) was built in the USA with parts from US and Japan sources. The media box was made in Indonesia. I think the Panasonics were also US/Japanese, but have heard (unconfirmed) that Panny has built/is building a new manufacturing facility in China. Darn - I never seem to have the time to search these things thoroughly - can anyone confirm that?
If so, that would be a huge factor in any decision I made, and might explain the price difference.
CHolleman 03-20-06, 08:23 AM ok, here's a question about a scenario that came up last night that made me a little uneasy.
i have a 4360 connected via HDMI to a D* H20. i was watching a run of movies last night on TNT HD. the problem in particular occurred when I was watching Forrest Gump. at times, the screen would go black and there would be no audio. my first impression was that it was a signal glitch from the D* service. i came to assumption because of one scene in particular where Forrest got the phone call that his mother was sick and jumped off the shrimp boat. he jumped off the boat and before he hit the water, the screen blanked. when it came back up, he was running down the road to his house in alabama. i've seen the movie enough times to know that you actually see him hit the water and swim a bit before it cuts to him running down the road. there wasn't enough time that had passed with the black screen for him to have done all this and cut to the dirt road scene.
so i believe that it's D*/H20 doing this but i want to make sure. i occasionally see macroblocking when viewing and it occurs on SD and HD material. i infact saw it on Gump last night as well when Lt. Dan threw the hooker on the bed when they were in the apartment. as soon as the girl hit the bed, the area around her became a bunch of square blocks for a split second and then was normal. i've heard that the compression of the MPEG4 signal can cause this, but i wanted to see if anyone else had noticed this or could verify that what i was seeing was indeed a fault from the STB, and NOT the panel. Thanks for setting my mind at ease.
tdavis21484 03-20-06, 09:04 AM Oh man, please talk me back into getting the 1130HD. I mean, I've been obsessed with the TV for months now and it certainly has this very classy look. However, now that the Panny 50inch 60U is out at literally $2000 cheaper (MSRP wise), displays more colors I believe and has a better black level can i justify the 1130HD purchase? Talk some sense into me!!! The panny 60u does have this cheap plastic look to it compared to 1130HD (even the 5060HD) which have this grand piano black glossy look (mighty sharp imo). Sigh....what to do...what to do....DO any models come with mounting brackets...that could help close the gap in price.
The price difference is hard to overcome, I understand, but the PDP-5061 is almost the eqivalent of the 1130HD, only a few fewer picture tweaks, costs $500 less, and includeds a basic mounting bracket. Keep in mind this is not the 5060, it's the 5061, which is the same thing, but is sold through Best Buy, and includes the bracket even though the 5060 doesn't.
ok, here's a question about a scenario that came up last night that made me a little uneasy.
i have a 4360 connected via HDMI to a D* H20. i was watching a run of movies last night on TNT HD. the problem in particular occurred when I was watching Forrest Gump. at times, the screen would go black and there would be no audio. my first impression was that it was a signal glitch from the D* service. i came to assumption because of one scene in particular where Forrest got the phone call that his mother was sick and jumped off the shrimp boat. he jumped off the boat and before he hit the water, the screen blanked. when it came back up, he was running down the road to his house in alabama. i've seen the movie enough times to know that you actually see him hit the water and swim a bit before it cuts to him running down the road. there wasn't enough time that had passed with the black screen for him to have done all this and cut to the dirt road scene.
so i believe that it's D*/H20 doing this but i want to make sure. i occasionally see macroblocking when viewing and it occurs on SD and HD material. i infact saw it on Gump last night as well when Lt. Dan threw the hooker on the bed when they were in the apartment. as soon as the girl hit the bed, the area around her became a bunch of square blocks for a split second and then was normal. i've heard that the compression of the MPEG4 signal can cause this, but i wanted to see if anyone else had noticed this or could verify that what i was seeing was indeed a fault from the STB, and NOT the panel. Thanks for setting my mind at ease.
I wouldn't worry about it.. sounds like a D* issue to me... haven't had SAT for a few years, so I'm not really sure... but the mere fact that the picture and audio cut out... well, that brings back old memories.
Also... as a side note... TNT HD is probably the crapiest HD channel there is... they seem to try a little harder during prime time... but during the day they basically just stick up some lousy upconverts... at least that's what it looks like to me.
Anyway... I wouldn't worry about your panel.
windrockwater 03-20-06, 10:25 AM Hello All:
I have had my Pio1130 since december and am loving it. I am about to mount it above our fireplace. I also just picked up a Sony 400 DVD changer (model 995 something). I have it connected to the MR using the Input 3 HDMI cable. Does anyone have this setup and can recommend the settings for DVD conversion that i should be using? When i play a DVD from the changer, the TV shows 1080i and HDMI on the display as the input. Should i disable something in the changer's settings to make the TV do the better job of converting instead of the changer? Maybe 720p or just 480p? How about HDMI vs Component from the changer?
I also have a new cablevision 8300hd stb connected via component to Input 1. SOmeone told me not to use the HDMI with the stb because it is unstable? By the way, when you use the HDMI i imagine it disables the component input? That means my inputs are full and i cannot connect a new XBOX360 without some type of splitter or controller?
Finally, when i connect a HTPC cn anyone recommend using a VGA cable or use a DVI-HDMI converter for the best picture quality. I want to use my HTPC to play movies onthe Pio and want the best PQ so which do you prefer? I will do my own tests but still want to hear others opinions on these things.
Sean
jimrobinette 03-20-06, 11:01 AM You are correct! I just bought the 5061 from BB this weekend (Mar 2006 manf date) and it has 5061 all over the outer box, but when you get the manual, it doesn't have a mention of 5061 anywhere.
Seems the 5061 is just a "packaging" model number that includes the wall mount for BB and the actual unit is the 5060.
While BB model number is different to avoid the price match issue, I found the local BB store to match online prices (after the inclusion of the wall mount). The actual negotiation went something like this:
Me: I know your 5061 is similar to the 5060 but has the wall mount. I have found the 5060 online at multiple authorized retailers for $XXXX. They don't include a wall mount, so to even the field, that would be $XXXX + $200.
BB Gen Mgr: (Before I could even finish my sentence above) I'll do that, plus 10% off any accessory you get today.
Took all of about 30 seconds. Didn't think it would be that easy!
Thanks to everyone for all their posts in this forum. I have read as much as I could (not all 100+ pages) and found it very eye opening. Can't wait to get home and hook up my new screen!
Thanks.
Keep in mind this is not the 5060, it's the 5061, which is the same thing, but is sold through Best Buy, and includes the bracket even though the 5060 doesn't.
Oh man, please talk me back into getting the 1130HD. I mean, I've been obsessed with the TV for months now and it certainly has this very classy look. However, now that the Panny 50inch 60U is out at literally $2000 cheaper (MSRP wise), displays more colors I believe and has a better black level can i justify the 1130HD purchase? Talk some sense into me!!! The panny 60u does have this cheap plastic look to it compared to 1130HD (even the 5060HD) which have this grand piano black glossy look (mighty sharp imo). Sigh....what to do...what to do....DO any models come with mounting brackets...that could help close the gap in price.
I've seen the PX60U and it still does not hold a candle to an Elite 1130. The colors are better than the PX50U that it replace, but that's it. Yes the Panasonic is cheaper, but it is NOT an Elite in any form.
If you are worried about the cost, go get the Panasonic. If you care more about PQ, you need to stick with the 1130.
In the end, you get what you pay for.
DarthMoprheus 03-20-06, 12:46 PM After break-in settings?
I've read just about every page of this thread over the last few months right up to buying my 5060 and I must say that there's TONS of great information to be had.
With that said, the general consensus I've seen is that the only difference between break-in and post 100 hours is increasing the contrast by 5, is that correct or did I miss a D-Nice tweak somewhere?
Nope, that all most will really do. Of course, feel free to tweak other settings to your liking.
DarthMoprheus 03-20-06, 01:49 PM eh, thanks anyway D-Nice. I like the settings you've provided thus far, so little tweaking will be necessary.
ssabripo 03-20-06, 02:56 PM I've seen the PX60U and it still does not hold a candle to an Elite 1130. The colors are better than the PX50U that it replace, but that's it. Yes the Panasonic is cheaper, but it is NOT an Elite in any form.
If you are worried about the cost, go get the Panasonic. If you care more about PQ, you need to stick with the 1130.
In the end, you get what you pay for.
perfectly said...
case in point, when I returned my sony SXRD XBR, the two displays that just stood out head and shoulders above the rest where the Pio 1130 and a 55" Fujistu! the rest (including the panny) where just a tier below in PQ....and this is uncalibrated!!!
imagine if a good ISF calibrator gets a hold of those Elite ISF settings!!! :eek: ;)
MaliciousBraham 03-20-06, 03:57 PM After break-in settings?
I've read just about every page of this thread over the last few months right up to buying my 5060 and I must say that there's TONS of great information to be had.
With that said, the general consensus I've seen is that the only difference between break-in and post 100 hours is increasing the contrast by 5, is that correct or did I miss a D-Nice tweak somewhere?
The point of "breaking-in" the plasma is really to exercise the phosphors in the screen as evenly as possible until they are less susceptible to burn in (the first 100-200 hrs, depending on your viewing habits). The setting that has the most bearing on this is contrast, with brightness as second.
The pioneers are so good at color reproduction that the colors do not shift when the brightness and contrast are adjusted. So you can set the color up during the break-in, and then just up the contrast and brightness after the break-in period is over. Most have found that about 5 steps of contrast is all that is needed post break-in, but as always, whatever makes the image look good to you.
I've seen quite a few posts on this recently (post break-in settings) so I thought I would elaborate a little as to why there arent any posted.
I've had my 1130 ~6 months now and am still loving every minute of it :) Getting the Pioneer 79avi dvd player recently just took my enjoyment of this display to a whole new level.
Viventis 03-20-06, 05:05 PM Hello All:
I also have a new cablevision 8300hd stb connected via component to Input 1. SOmeone told me not to use the HDMI with the stb because it is unstable? By the way, when you use the HDMI i imagine it disables the component input? That means my inputs are full and i cannot connect a new XBOX360 without some type of splitter or controller?
Sean
I use the front input (component) for my Xbox. I disconnect it when not playing.
mixtapem 03-20-06, 05:13 PM i need the cheapest wallmount for my 4360.. dont have to name the price ill find that...but if possible the place where it can be located or ill just need a model #..also will i need some kind of adaptor plate with it?? info will be appreciated
CHolleman 03-20-06, 05:47 PM i need the cheapest wallmount for my 4360.. dont have to name the price ill find that...but if possible the place where it can be located or ill just need a model #..also will i need some kind of adaptor plate with it?? info will be appreciated
www.mountsdirect.com
excellent prices and fast shipping. some people like chief, some peerless. i went with the sanus. all it has to do is hold it on the wall. i think the model number i got was VMP50L or something like that. i was black, had a 12 degree tilt and a 2.5" depth which was important to me. it's universal, so it fit the Pio no problems and would be a good choice for down the road, should you buy another tv.
mixtapem 03-20-06, 06:59 PM www.mountsdirect.com
excellent prices and fast shipping. some people like chief, some peerless. i went with the sanus. all it has to do is hold it on the wall. i think the model number i got was VMP50L or something like that. i was black, had a 12 degree tilt and a 2.5" depth which was important to me. it's universal, so it fit the Pio no problems and would be a good choice for down the road, should you buy another tv.
thanks!
I am looking at buying my first plasma and am debating between waiting for the new Panny 50PX600U or going for the Pioneer 5060HD. I have a couple questions I hope someone can answer, first, what is the difference between the 1280x768 resolution on the 5060 and the 1366x768 on the panny? Which one is a more natural look?
Also, I am seeing a lot of people talk about the Pioneer Elite 1130HD and I gather it is the same overall panel as the 5060 only with a few more tweaks available. Am I correct on that? Is the Elite worth the extra money for someone who is not that big of an Audio Visual person?
Finally, I know price cannot be discussed but I was wondering if anyone can recommend a good online authorized retailer for both the best price and service? I know TVAuthority is a sponsor and I will be calling them but before I go through the list on the Pioneer website and call each one I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction.
Also, does anyone know if there is a good local dealer in the Charlotte, NC area who would be willing to negotiate a bit? I would prefer to buy locally but won't pay MSRP for the set.
I am leaning towards the Pioneer and will probably pull the trigger in the next 2 weeks. Thanks for your help, this website is great!
I am looking at buying my first plasma and am debating between waiting for the new Panny 50PX600U or going for the Pioneer 5060HD. I have a couple questions I hope someone can answer, first, what is the difference between the 1280x768 resolution on the 5060 and the 1366x768 on the panny? Which one is a more natural look?
I haven't heard of anyone who could tell the difference between those 2 resolutions. It's a moot point as the both look extremely natural.
Also, I am seeing a lot of people talk about the Pioneer Elite 1130HD and I gather it is the same overall panel as the 5060 only with a few more tweaks available. Am I correct on that? Is the Elite worth the extra money for someone who is not that big of an Audio Visual person?
The glass is essentially the same, but the additional controls definitely takes the 1130 to another level. IMO and probably all other Elite owners who have debated the "worth it" question will say the Elite is worth the money. BTW, welcome to AVS and more sooner than later you will become an "Audio Visual" person :D
Finally, I know price cannot be discussed but I was wondering if anyone can recommend a good online authorized retailer for both the best price and service? I know TVAuthority is a sponsor and I will be calling them but before I go through the list on the Pioneer website and call each one I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction. Also, does anyone know if there is a good local dealer in the Charlotte, NC area who would be willing to negotiate a bit? I would prefer to buy locally but won't pay MSRP for the set.
I HIGHLY recommend you contact ZoboTV as you live in Charlotte. They have extremely competitive prices on the Elites and non-Elite Pioneers. I can almost guarantee they will quote you a price that is the same, if not less, than TVA for the 5060.
Oh man, please talk me back into getting the 1130HD. I mean, I've been obsessed with the TV for months now and it certainly has this very classy look. However, now that the Panny 50inch 60U is out at literally $2000 cheaper (MSRP wise), displays more colors I believe and has a better black level can i justify the 1130HD purchase? Talk some sense into me!!! The panny 60u does have this cheap plastic look to it compared to 1130HD (even the 5060HD) which have this grand piano black glossy look (mighty sharp imo). Sigh....what to do...what to do....DO any models come with mounting brackets...that could help close the gap in price.
Jason, first off you need to compare the 50PX600 to the 5060 as these two models are a lot closer in features. When you do that they are about the same price from an authorized internet dealer and the 5060 might even be a couple of hundred less especially considering the premium you will be paying for the 50PX600 until the supply catches up with the demand. If you don't need any of the features of the 5060 or 50PX600 then by all means go with the 50PX60, however I have seen the current prices being quoted by authorized internet dealers for a 50PX60 and the difference I found was $500 or less than the 5060 and IMO it is worth every penny more. Based on the latest specs and features on the new Panasonics they are obviously the ones trying to play catch up with Pioneer. It will be interesting to see from the pro reviews in a few months if they succeeded.
scrosenb 03-20-06, 11:32 PM I've seen the PX60U and it still does not hold a candle to an Elite 1130. The colors are better than the PX50U that it replace, but that's it. Yes the Panasonic is cheaper, but it is NOT an Elite in any form.
If you are worried about the cost, go get the Panasonic. If you care more about PQ, you need to stick with the 1130.
In the end, you get what you pay for.
D-Nice, can you please review for me the breakin settings you suggest. I have a 5060 being delivered in one day and am really excited. I have seen a few different settings being discussed in this thread, but wanted to know which ones you recommend for the first 100-200 hours? Thanks for the help D-Nice, you provide a great resource.
D-Nice, can you please review for me the breakin settings you suggest. I have a 5060 being delivered in one day and am really excited. I have seen a few different settings being discussed in this thread, but wanted to know which ones you recommend for the first 100-200 hours? Thanks for the help D-Nice, you provide a great resource.
Main Menu
AV Selection: User
Contrast: 25
Brightness: 0
Color: -12
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -3
Pro Adjust
Pure Cinema: ADV or Off
Color Detail
Color Temp: Low
CTI: Off
NR
DNR: Mid
MPEG NR: Low
power save mode: save2
PeteG84 03-21-06, 01:06 AM D-Nice welcome back I was wondering where you've been. Hope all is well.
Question you still have the Oppo. I was watching the movie the Abyss special edition which is 2:35.1. I always like to have the top and bottom bars removed when I watch movies in that format so I use the zoom on the Pio and it removes the bars. On this movie it does not when I use the zoom function. I have to use the zoom function on the Oppo to get rid of them but the picture quality is no good.
I wonder if there is a difference between widescreen 2:35.1 and letterboxed 2:35.1 which doesnt allow the top and bottom bars to be removed completely using zoom function.
Jason Priestley 03-21-06, 01:20 AM Hmmm...I'll have to check out the internet dealers although I'm mighty afraid of going online for such an expensive purchase. Maybe its just paranoia. I guess I'd like to know someone is right around the corner if there is a problem. Plus, the elites are B&M only, correct? I told the fiance about the 60U and well even before seeing it her mind is made up....sigh...I'm gonna have to see if I can talk down the elite vendors down but still, I'd need like a 20% before I can convince the fiance.
HERE's a big issue that may seal the deal with her. The Panny stand is cheap and doesn't swivel. I know the elite does swivel but can it also tilt? And also can I raise the stand up to a higher level? I have a fairly big center channel (paradigm cc-470) which is about 9inches up and a very versatile stand would help seal the deal......
Jason Priestley 03-21-06, 01:21 AM By the way, I have not seen the two models side by side (only one at a time and the panny was the 42 inch model). I know that the specs don't reveal all but seriously, if the panny has a higher contrast ratio, higher resolution, and can produce more colors, from a PQ standpoing is the elite's only advantage its motion processing?
Also, I'm assuming its a now but is it possible to place the TV on the media receiver?
mefromfl 03-21-06, 08:14 AM Hi i been posting on this thread a few times, but never really got an answer. So i hope someone can answer a similar question.
I have a pioneer 4360 with D* 20 reciever. I sometimes sit about 2-3 feet under the plasma and notice squares or pixelation when there is a fast changing scene transition. It's not a signal problem because it would happen at the same scene and it happens when there are like sparks or big lighting scene on too. I first thought it might be D*, but when I went to my brother's house, who has the 1130 and i stand up close to it, I do see the same thing also, he has cable. So i'm wondering if this is normal for the pioneer when im watching the tv close up. Thank you in adavance for your reply.
btw, this does happen with my OTA antenna too, and when i'm watching nfl network, sometimes when the word is scrolling from left to right, the letters are fuzzy or jittery.
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