If you could, please share what setting you have on both (connected via HDMI).

Cheers,
TP

Sharpness, NR, and Pure Cinema settings hae absolutely nothing to do with burn-in/run-in. Those settings are there to make the picture more pleasing :D

Wonderful!

So does this mean that I can play with these NR settings to get a better picture from my broadband TV box?

They use MPEG2 compression (supposedly DVD quality - but it varies according to channel and content) and the output is 625i.

Quite a good picture / system really and much better PQ than the cable TV here.

care to share? :)Sure:
1. Press <TV Guide> to get the listing.
2. At the initial listing screen, press left once to select the channel icon.
3. Press <Menu> to get Channel Options.
4. At the Channel Options menu, press down once to change the Video lock/unlock option.
5. At the Video option, press either left or right once to select Lock.
6. Press down twice to select Done.

DONE

The "flickering" may be due to your power save mode setting as others has said. The "flickering" will not happen when the power save mode is set to Standard. However, I do not recommend using Standard if you have less than 500 total hours on your panel.

I personally use save2 and have only seen the "flickering" once in a blue moon.

Do you leave your display on power save2 all the time?

I am still a total newby (~50 hours breaking in my 4360)
I am using the "break-in" settings with save2, and am very imnpressed with the image quality.

After break-in, I think I'll be happy to raise contrast and brightness a bit and leave it on save2.
Will I be missing anything if I leave it like that?

thnx

Can someone please repost or direct to the post that gives the optimun settings for a 5060 AFTER break in please
Using satellite and sony dvd

Thank you it would be greatly appreciated

If you could, please share what setting you have on both (connected via HDMI).

Cheers,
TP

tpham, I have an 1130 and a 59-avi, and have been waiting for you to show up! :rolleyes: Seriously, I have posted some threads about setup with the DV-59avi, which are posted below, in chronological order. Feel free to chime in or pm me if you would like to discuss off-line. I didn't get a whole lot of responses, perhaps because nobody had the same DVD player, or everyone was off watching TV!

I understand if you don't want to delve into the somewhat technical abyss below. I posted all the below while my family was away for six weeks and had alot of time on my hands, obviously. Now they are back, so time is somewhat limited for T&I, but I will do what I can to help.

Mark

Color Management controls?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I performed the "calibration" of my 1130HD after 200 hours of break-in time. I am using a Pioneer Elite DV-59avi DVD player connected via HDMI and sending out digital component (YCbCr) at 480i resolution to the panel. I used both Avia, Video Essentials, and Digital Video Essentials calibration DVD's.

Interestingly, I could set contrast as high as 50! At 51, the whiter than white bars in the Avia test pattern disappeared. I didn't really feel comfortable keeping it that high, so I set it at 30. I'm wondering what experience others have had setting contrast with the avia pattern.

Also, I'm confused about the Color Management controls, which I have not used yet. The way I see it, you would use those controls instead of color and tint. If I recall correctly, "Color" adjusts red, green, and blue all at once, and "Tint" adjusts cyan and magenta at once. The Color Management controls provide individual control over red, green, blue, cyan, magenta, and yellow. I'd be curious to hear if anyone else has used the Color Management controls and how you adjusted them.

I thought I would include my settings. I copied them from Excel, so not everything lines up correctly.


Application DVD
Equipment DV-59avi
Connection Type HDMI
Date 5/21/2006

Main Settings
A/V Selection Pure

Contrast 30

Brightness -1

Color 3

Tint -4

Sharpness 0

Pro Adjust Settings
Pure Cinema ADV

Color Detail
Color Temp Low
R High 0
G High 0
B High 0
R Low 0
G Low 0
B Low 0

CTI Off

Color Management
R 0
Y 0
G 0
C 0
B 0
M 0

NR
DNR Off
MPEG NR Off

DRE
Dynamic Contrast High
Black Level On
ACL Off
Gamma 3 (Previously at 2; see below post on gamma settings)


HDMI settings for the 1130HD and a 59-avi

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I was wondering what HDMI video format (RGB or YCbCr) those with an 1130HD and a 59-avi DVD player are using? I have a theory on which combination should produce the best picture, which is based on the following:

Reason #1: The 59-avi can output 8 bit RGB or 8 bit YCbCr over HDMI.

Reason #2: As reported here, the the processing in the 1130HD is 10 bit.

Reason #3: I am assuming the video procesing in the 1130HD is performed in the YCbCr format.

If the above reasons are valid, then sending YCbCr via HDMI at 480i from the 59-avi should result in the least amount of processing to the signal prior to deinterlacing and scaling. The logic for this paragraph is that the 59-avi and the 1130HD are both utilizing the YCbCr signal format, so no conversions (which can be problematic) occur. This dictates sending YCbCr from the 59-avi

Further, aside from matching the video signal format (YCbCr) between the devices, the 10 bit processing capability in the 1130HD should have better performance than the 59-avi's 8 bit processing. This dictates sending out 480i from the 59-avi.

Lastly, when using the YCbCr video format over HDMI from the 59-avi, it would seem the HDMI Video setting on the 1130HD should be set to "Component 4:2:2" instead of "Auto".

This is a theory, so I'm curious to get some feedback on it. Also, can anyone confirm if the assumption in reason #3 is correct?

FYIO: It has been reported over in the 59-avi thread that sending RGB via HDMI at 480i from the player results in some clipping of the video signals. There is a "fix" of sorts by using a combination of settings, but it comes at the expense of some missing steps in the greyscale due to rounding errors. See the 59-avi thread and search for posts from CSundbom for more info on this, if you are interested in reading the entire history. Otherwise, here is one post that sums it up:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7561969&&#post7561969


Gamma settings for the 1130HD with a DV 59-avi

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I recently researched the aspects of gamma, and I was wondering what effect changing the settings on the 1130 HD might have. When I performed my initial calibration above, I had noticed something when viewing a vertical ramp pattern in Avia: The two bars on the extreme right of the picture were displayed as one black bar. In other words, I was seeing one black vertical bar when there should have been two black bars with different brightness levels (0 and 10 IRE, I think).

From my research on gamma, I knew the different settings might allow both bars to be displayed. As it turns out, this was correct. A gamma setting of 3 revealed (ever so slightly) the differences between the bars. I also tried different DRE settings of Dynamic Contrast, Black Level, and ACL, but they had no noticeable effect on this particular pattern. I re-checked the brightness setting with the appropriate test pattern, and I didn't need to change the setting.

Next, I wanted to see the effect on the top end of the gray scale, so I checked the contrast pattern in Avia. This time, I could only raise contrast to 42 or so before the whiter than white bars disappeared. I'm wondering what experience others have had setting contrast with the avia pattern, as I just leave it at 30 even though I can raise it higher.

I also wanted to try and understand the Color Management controls. I displayed the color bars in Avia and ran the controls up and down, but could not detect any changes in colors. Next, I displayed Avia's full field color patterns and ran the controls up and down. On these patterns, I noticed changes, and they were very subtle. That said, I still do not know what utility the Color Management controls have.

Anyone?

Mark

tpham, I have an 1130 and a 59-avi, and have been waiting for you to show up! :rolleyes: Seriously, I have posted some threads about setup with the DV-59avi, which are posted below, in chronological order. Feel free to chime in or pm me if you would like to discuss off-line. I didn't get a whole lot of responses, perhaps because nobody had the same DVD player, or everyone was off watching TV!



Thank you for the great detail. Will try over the weekend.

Thanks,
TP.

To whoever was thinking about buying a Samsung 5052 over the Pioneer: DON'T. I am returning my Samsung tomorrow and buying the Pioneer 5061. The Samsung's DNIe is just too distracting - while watching Evolution Underworld the screen wouldn't stay the same "blackness". First it was grey, then black, then grey-black, all in the same scene. Turn on the DNIe demo mode, and you see a HUGE difference in the "off" side.

If you really want this TV, do yourself a favor and watch some DARK scenes on it, and some SD material with faces. I got the Samsung for under $2000 (open box, BB), but it's so bad I'm bringing it back! Great TV, BAD non-defeatable feature.

And yeah, the Pioneers looked a bit better, too. Try to compare same-size screens - it helps!

I currently have my 5060 in breakin-mode (D-Nice's settings) and noticed that on fast spinning objects, there seems to be black lines appearing. ie: the rotor of a helicopter or close shot of a car's wheels (mostly spinning objects). Is this the "flicker" being mentioned in earlier posts and or will this go away once I get my settings up and going post-breakin?

I don't noticed this on my other two HD sets (LCD/DLP).

How many people are having the 'flickering' issue on the 1130?

I am thinking about picking up an 1130 within the next week or two but these flickering posts have caught my attention. Is this across the board on all 1130s or is it only on some sets?

Thanks for the help :)

I currently have my 5060 in breakin-mode (D-Nice's settings) and noticed that on fast spinning objects, there seems to be black lines appearing. ie: the rotor of a helicopter or close shot of a car's wheels (mostly spinning objects). Is this the "flicker" being mentioned in earlier posts and or will this go away once I get my settings up and going post-breakin?

I don't noticed this on my other two HD sets (LCD/DLP).

No. You are experiencing something else. Do you notice this on all channels and DVDs? What is your source material? Satellite or cable? What brand STB do you have?

How many people are having the 'flickering' issue on the 1130?

I am thinking about picking up an 1130 within the next week or two but these flickering posts have caught my attention. Is this across the board on all 1130s or is it only on some sets?

Thanks for the help :)

Highly recommend to visit the store and spend sometimes to check it out. Ask the rep to view SD/HD/your favorite DVD on an average player and determine for yourself. View it under Full/4:3/Stretch format and check out the background reflection on the screen. You may not like it if watching tv during the day in a bright room.

Cheers,
TP

No. You are experiencing something else. Do you notice this on all channels and DVDs? What is your source material? Satellite or cable? What brand STB do you have?

I'm experiencing this on Discovery HD and INHD. I have Time Warner via cable card. No external equipment. I have the cable going into a surge protector back out and into the media box.

The "black lines" i've described seems more like the vertical and horizontal lines arent aligned or a screen shot of a vhs video. Thats as best I can describe it and it only occurs inside the fast moving objects, everything else seems fine.

I was wondering if there were others who've experienced more & more frequent macroblocking occurences with their pioneer plasmas. Recently, I've noticed that macroblocking sometimes occurs more often on certain hd channels than others. I have an 1130 connected via hdmi to a SA8300hd. Have you guys had the same issues? If so, is there a fix? Thank you in advance for your replies.

I was wondering if there were others who've experienced more & more frequent macroblocking occurences with their pioneer plasmas. Recently, I've noticed that macroblocking sometimes occurs more often on certain hd channels than others. I have an 1130 connected via hdmi to a SA8300hd. Have you guys had the same issues? If so, is there a fix? Thank you in advance for your replies.

Hopefully, it discussed here.

SA8300HD (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=586837)

Cheers,
TP

the flickering only occurs when im watching a dvd on my pio 490v or when im playing the xbox. i havent seen it when im watching television its really weird i turned all power settings off/standard. this sux no one else has experienced this issue before??
I've had the same thing happen, but on any input using any source. I narrowed the problem down to the OTA tuner. The tv would be fine, but when I switched to OTA and then back again, the display would flicker just as you described. The only way to get it to stop was pull the plug on the media reciever and allow it to reboot. As an experiment, I disconnected the OTA antenna and stopped using the OTA tuner and have not had the problem since. It sucks because now I can't watch OTA hd. I even had the tv exchanged for another through Best Buy and it experiences the same problem.

The "flickering" may be due to your power save mode setting as others has said. The "flickering" will not happen when the power save mode is set to Standard. However, I do not recommend using Standard if you have less than 500 total hours on your panel.

I personally use save2 and have only seen the "flickering" once in a blue moon.

thats the thing we switched it to standard however the flickering still occurs. yesterday it flickered then it went to a completely dark green screen then a black screen and finally it resumed normal broadcast a second later. :eek: i called one of the authorized repair centers and they said they will call pioneer to see if they know anything about the issue. less than 4 months and this thing is going out I GOT A LEMON!!!!!!! lol

bmwsport,

I think the cable companies are still using MPEG2 compression instead of the more efficient MPEG4 that satellite companies are beginning to roll out. As such, there is an enormous amount of compression going on and little bandwith (compared to satellite and OTA). Could this be the source of the macroblocking?

If you have an OTA antenna, try connecting your HD tuner to it and compare your HD local channels to the HD cable version. I've found that indoor HD antennas will pick up a signal but won't do as good a job as outdoor ones so don't compare using an indoor antenna. If the macroblocking is still there when using the OTA antenna, then it is a TV processing issue rather than a cable box issue. Hope this helps.

As a side note, I am using D-Nice's after break-in settings withe the Power mode to Save 2.

Like I said, if you have a OTA antenna hooked up, disconnect it and reboot the media reciever by pulling the plug. Leave the antenna disconnected, then see if the flicker problem goes away. I'm curious to see if this works for anyone else.

budanski,

Your "flicker" problem sounds like lack of anti-aliasing. Do your diagonal lines have a "stair-step" look or "jaggies"? I notice this on people wearing shirts or ties with pinstripes that are close together, giving a shimmering effect. This doesn't happen when I watch DVD's but I have the Oppo dvd player with Faroudja processing that will take care of this. Try turning the Pure Cinema on/off/ADV to see if it makes a difference. I think ADV mode should only be activated for interlaced film source (for 3:3 pulldown).

Since OTA tuners have been hotly discussed recently, I hope everyone knows that Ant A is the only one capable of pulling HDTV OTA (at least for the Pio 1130).

The flicker problem I'm talking about is the display will go all black for a split second. Sometimes it will happen just once, or sometimes it will happen several times in succession. I had the OTA antenna hooked into ant. A.

rudyr,

Were you using an indoor or outdoor antenna? Any tall buildings/trees/mountains near where you live? Also, do you feed your coax directly to the cable box/tuner or does it go through a line conditioner first?

I'm using an outdoor antenna (Winguard), it goes directly into the ant. A input. I live in the city, so there are no mountains, but there are several trees. The thing is, when I go to the OTA input and then go back to any other inputs (Video 2, 3, etc.) I will get the flicker. I can leave the antenna hooked up and it will not flicker unless I go to that input. I've considered that it may be the antenna, but I never had that problem when the antenna was hooked up to my Voom box and my other tv (Sony XBR910).

I talked to an engineer at Pioneer and he seemed to think the TV Guide was causing it, but it would still happen even when I disabled that feature.

A professional review I read stated the Pio 1130 had a relatively weak ATSC tuner. This would correspond with your findings that your antenna works fine with other tuners.

I've noticed that my TV does a lot of flickering when the cable box is set to "pass-through" because it has to handle changes from say 480p to 1080i to 720p when changing channels. My Scientific Atlanta box can be changed to "Upconvert 1" or "Upconvert 2" and that will stop the flickering since now you are only outputting either 1080i or 720p exclusively. Other than that, I would recommend you remove all DNR and Pure Cinema processing to see if it makes any difference.

rudyr,

I think your "flicker" is caused by resolution changes when you switch between inputs. For instance, If you are watching 1080i on your OTA antenna,and then switch inputs, the panel has to verify what resolution is it receiving on the new input. That will cause your "flicker". You will see it more if you use HDMI on input 1 or 3.

When using my cable box (Input 3) my SD channels will display in 480i and the HD channels switch to 1080i, and I will have no problems with flicker. What confuses me is why after watching OTA, will the panel flicker on all of the other inputs also?

I'm not that worried about it though. Hopefully Cox will have the locals in HD soon and it will be a non issue. As long as I know that it won't happen again unless I'm using OTA. I just thought my feedback might help other people that are having the same issue.

I still highly recommend the set as the picture on it is phenomenal.

I've been watching high def TV for over 4 years so I'm used to this "flickering abuse." The video purist will want to watch the signal in its native form (ie. ESPN and FOX is 720p whereas almost every other station is 1080i) but I guess the best suggestion for HD newbies is to have the cable box output only 1080i or 720p, depending on the native resolution of the display. The problem is, with OTA tuner and Cablecard, can you force one rez output like the cable box?

D-Nice, I think you convinced me that rudyr's problem is definitely rez related.

rudyr,

I think your "flicker" is caused by resolution changes when you switch between inputs. For instance, If you are watching 1080i on your OTA antenna,and then switch inputs, the panel has to verify what resolution is it receiving on the new input. That will cause your "flicker". You will see it more if you use HDMI on input 1 or 3.
Hey D-Nice,

First of all, a big thanks to you for all the help you've given me with my 5060.

And secondly, the thing is the picture won't flicker when changing resolutions on my cable box. Only when using OTA, and it will continue to flicker randomly until I disconnect the media reciever and plug it back in again.

rudyr,

Does your media box get plenty of ventilation? Some people complain about the fan noise inside but it is entirely vital to the TV's operation. Electronics tend to do strange things when they overheat. You don't have the media box stacked with anything else, do you?

Hey D-Nice,

First of all, a big thanks to you for all the help you've given me with my 5060.

And secondly, the thing is the picture won't flicker when changing resolutions on my cable box. Only when using OTA, and it will continue to flicker randomly until I disconnect the media reciever and plug it back in again.


Did you check the antenna signal strength?

My media box is sitting on an open shelf all by itself.

D-Nice,

The antenna strength was very low (around 10-15 if I remember correctly). Do you think that could cause the problem even when the tv is switched to a different input? We may be on to something.

My media box is sitting on an open shelf all by itself.

D-Nice,

The antenna strength was very low (around 10-15 if I remember correctly). Do you think that could cause the problem even when the tv is switched to a different input? We may be on to something.

YEP. Mine is in the 50 range minimum and I've never ever seen this issue... cant even replicate it. Try picking up an external antenna amplifier and see if that helps.

The antenna forums have a lot of suggestions on what to use.

I'll try that. If that fixes the problem I will be ecstatic.

I am trying to get some input about the fan in the media box being on 24/7, even when on standby.

Doesn't anyone think this will lead to some sort of premature hardware failure?

I am trying to get some input about the fan in the media box being on 24/7, even when on standby.

Doesn't anyone think this will lead to some sort of premature hardware failure?

Nope. It's just how the MR was built.

I am trying to get some input about the fan in the media box being on 24/7, even when on standby.

Doesn't anyone think this will lead to some sort of premature hardware failure?

The only problem I have with the fan running in the standby mode is noise. That type of fan is generally very reliable and I've never heard of one actually failing. My MR quieted down for a few weeks after Pioneer replaced the original fans, but was again loud enough to be heard 25 feet away within two weeks. When I called Pioneer yesterday, they told me that they expect to have an improved fan sometime in July.
I've been told that you can get the fans to shut off in the standby mode if you remove the Cable Card and set the TVGOS code to all zeros, but have not been able to confirm this.

Did you do a channel scan on Ant A?
D-Nice,

it's always good to hear from you.

Yes, I did a scan on ANT A with the indoor antenna connected. I can still watch SD channels on ANT A, the HD channels (XX.XXX) came up nothing, i.e. black screen. I didn't have this problem before, I didn't change any setup either.

Anyone else have the same problem, i.e. missing HD OTA channels?

Thanks for the recommendation.

My room during the day isnt too bright but thats a good thing to think about. Any other things you recommend I evaluate/look at before I make the purchase?

Thank again for all the help! :)Highly recommend to visit the store and spend sometimes to check it out. Ask the rep to view SD/HD/your favorite DVD on an average player and determine for yourself. View it under Full/4:3/Stretch format and check out the background reflection on the screen. You may not like it if watching tv during the day in a bright room.

Cheers,
TP

Thanks for the recommendation.

My room during the day isnt too bright but thats a good thing to think about. Any other things you recommend I evaluate/look at before I make the purchase?

Thank again for all the help! :)

Your eyes are always the best judge. However, I don't think you will regret an 1130 at all. I've looked at many different plasmas, including the Pannys, and for my money the 1130 or 5060 can't be beat. Picture, overall asthetics, viewing angles, media receiver, calibration resources, and that lovely piano black finish do it for me.

Try taking one of your reference DVDs with you for evaluation, and if you can get your hands on the remote, take it out of "torch" mode (not dynamic) and play with the settings a bit. Compare it side by side with either a Fujitsu or Panny if you can.

Our 3g panel was great in bright lights - this 6g is even better for bright and dark rooms IMO.

Thanks again. I've looked at in BB and was impressed with what I saw but now I realize it can look a lot better then that.

I talked to a local dealer and he said he was getting about 10 of them in within the next week or so and most of them have already been sold.

I ended up pulling the trigger and putting a down payment on one before he pre-sold them all. I am very excited. I am also getting it ISF calibrated as they offer a deal on the calibration if you buy the tv from them.

From what I've read and heard about this set I dont think I will be disappointed. I am going in on Saturday for a demo and to finalize the paperwork! :)
Your eyes are always the best judge. However, I don't think you will regret an 1130 at all. I've looked at many different plasmas, including the Pannys, and for my money the 1130 or 5060 can't be beat. Picture, overall asthetics, viewing angles, media receiver, calibration resources, and that lovely piano black finish do it for me.

Try taking one of your reference DVDs with you for evaluation, and if you can get your hands on the remote, take it out of "torch" mode (not dynamic) and play with the settings a bit. Compare it side by side with either a Fujitsu or Panny if you can.

Our 3g panel was great in bright lights - this 6g is even better for bright and dark rooms IMO.

The only problem I have with the fan running in the standby mode is noise. That type of fan is generally very reliable and I've never heard of one actually failing. My MR quieted down for a few weeks after Pioneer replaced the original fans, but was again loud enough to be heard 25 feet away within two weeks. When I called Pioneer yesterday, they told me that they expect to have an improved fan sometime in July.
I've been told that you can get the fans to shut off in the standby mode if you remove the Cable Card and set the TVGOS code to all zeros, but have not been able to confirm this.

So in July we could possibly get some sort of service call to have the fans upgraded?
(I am willing to pay for this - I also hear the MR in standby from 20 feet away.

as for actually getting it to shut down in standby, let me know if you are able to do this!
I have no interest in the TV guide.

Hi can any one help me, i just done the run in hours on my amazing 5060yd .Can anyone please send me their post run in :) setings.

Sory That Is Pioneer 5060hd

rudyr,

Does your media box get plenty of ventilation? Some people complain about the fan noise inside but it is entirely vital to the TV's operation. Electronics tend to do strange things when they overheat. You don't have the media box stacked with anything else, do you?

I have a new build Media Receiver (May 2006) and the fan is totally silent. Cannot hear anything (although I can feel the cool air gently blowing out).

The unit is totally cool - even compared to a low power consumption DVD recorder I have which does get warm, though barely.

In addition, the fan stops when the machine goes into stand by.

It seems Pioneer do upgrade their machines during current model production runs and shows how responsible they are.

I have a new build Media Receiver (May 2006) and the fan is totally silent. Cannot hear anything (although I can feel the cool air gently blowing out).

The unit is totally cool - even compared to a low power consumption DVD recorder I have which does get warm, though barely.

In addition, the fan stops when the machine goes into stand by.

It seems Pioneer do upgrade their machines during current model production runs and shows how responsible they are.

Are you using Cable Card or TV Guide OS, or are you using it with a cable or satellite box? I've been trying to find out if the fan shuts off in standby when Cable Card is removed and TVGOS is deactivated. The MR on my 4360 (Feb 06 build date) consumes 26 watts in the standby mode (per specification) when the cable card is inserted and this is enough to require the fan to run full time. Pioneer tells me and others who have posted on this forum that the fan should be running in standby, and even sends service techs to replace fans if you complain enough about the noise in standby. Elite owners have registered similar complaints about standby noise and I'm curious to know why your fan shuts off in standby. What is your configuration?

I have a new build Media Receiver (May 2006) and the fan is totally silent. Cannot hear anything (although I can feel the cool air gently blowing out).

The unit is totally cool - even compared to a low power consumption DVD recorder I have which does get warm, though barely.

In addition, the fan stops when the machine goes into stand by.

It seems Pioneer do upgrade their machines during current model production runs and shows how responsible they are.

I bought mine in mid May 2006, because there were very few remaining in warehosue stock and I was worried they'd all be gone (which they were) if I waited until June which is when I had planned to purchase it. (4360HD)
So I can't imagine your MR is newer then mine.
I don't even think they were still making them in May; I think they were clearing them out at that point. The announced discontinuation was April wasn't it?

Anyway - how are you able to tell when yours was built?
I'd like to check mine.

I might look into contacting Pioneer to upgrade the fans.
- I really don't like the noise in standby, and I even find it a bit loud when I have the TV on.

Hi can any one help me, i just done the run in hours on my amazing 5060yd .Can anyone please send me their post run in :) setings.

Just use your break in settings and bump up the contrast a bit to your taste. Those break in settings are posted in this thread; just do a quick search and you'll find them if you need.

Enjoy your new toy!

I've had the 5060 since January and I have one problem with it. When I am watching an HD channel like HBOHD and the content is not HD like a preview to another show, there is a broken white line at the top of the screen. Other programs work fine like HD content on a HD channel or a DVD work fine. I also have the Directivo HD unit. I searched the thread but it was hard to find if anyone else has had this problem. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to fix it?
Thanks, Rich.

got my second 5060 today. the previous one arrived shattered. very sad.

still need to do a lot of setup work, mostly related to the center channel, but i love it already. haven't attached the speakers yet (they go on the sides) but i'm not 100% sure i'm going to... lots of other little setup stuff to do but it'll have to wait. :D

sorry for the bad pics, it's REALLY bright outside right now, those are south facing windows. anyway i'm stoked. this one is perfect. no dead pixels, no scratches, looks great. i contemplated getting the 5070 but decided that i preferred having the media receiver and the side mount speakers.

http://www.431.org/miscPics/toob/5234-tv.jpg

http://www.431.org/miscPics/toob/5233-tv.jpg

http://www.431.org/miscPics/toob/5231-tv.jpg

rich404,

Sounds like you are experiencing underscan. Try switching from HDMI to component or component to HDMI. Usually HDMI gives you the least underscan or overscan.

^^^Wow - really nice pics - thanks for sharing them. Love the black AV furniture.

sorry for the bad pics, it's REALLY bright outside right now, those are south facing windows. anyway i'm stoked. this one is perfect. no dead pixels, no scratches, looks great. i contemplated getting the 5070 but decided that i preferred having the media receiver and the side mount speakers.

schwett,

Your room looks outstanding! Some of the first pics I've seen where the plasma really melds with the interior design of the house. Can I ask, what stand is that you're using?

I would also like to know what stand that is.

Looking good schwett! :cool: schwett,

Your room looks outstanding! Some of the first pics I've seen where the plasma really melds with the interior design of the house. Can I ask, what stand is that you're using?

Looks great schwett, but I would not recommending using the included speakers for a center channel. They are far from a match to your front speakers and would spoil the clean look of the TV. You could find a small center speaker that would sound great and fit nicely into your cabinet beneath the TV. I researched the subject on the AVS speaker forum and wound up with Ascend Acoustics speakers that sound great, but almost any brand would sound better than the tiny speakers in the Pioneer. The Ascend center is black and almost invisible in a cabinet.

I've had the 5060 since January and I have one problem with it. When I am watching an HD channel like HBOHD and the content is not HD like a preview to another show, there is a broken white line at the top of the screen. Other programs work fine like HD content on a HD channel or a DVD work fine. I also have the Directivo HD unit. I searched the thread but it was hard to find if anyone else has had this problem. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to fix it?
Thanks, Rich.


Underscan. Use the vertical picture adjustment tool in the options menu to correct the picture.

thanks for the kind words everyone. i think picking the stand was harder than picking the TV!

i have a serious aversion to the design of most A/V specific furniture... i'm kind of a minimalist i guess. the stand is a 4x1 rolling media storage unit from west elm. it's very cheap, open back, not really designed with AV in mind and comes in chocolate brown, blonde, and maybe a few other colors. i customized it by installing two of the vertical dividers off center - the way they show it doesn't fit standard width a/v components. the furniture is just barely deep enough for the base of the 5060. i installed two slender bolts through the holes on the foot of the stand with nuts underneath the top horizontal of the unit. the tv certainly isn't going anywhere, but the whole thing does jiggle a bit if you push hard since it's on casters.

my main issue is the center channel speaker. the current position is slightly off-center, which doesn't seem to affect the imaging much but i am going to probably get a new center with a flat face and possibly integrate it into the stand. i do plan on attaching the speakers to the 5060, but i had to get to work this morning. ;)

thanks for the kind words everyone. i think picking the stand was harder than picking the TV!

i have a serious aversion to the design of most A/V specific furniture... i'm kind of a minimalist i guess. the stand is a 4x1 rolling media storage unit from west elm. it's very cheap, open back, not really designed with AV in mind and comes in chocolate brown, blonde, and maybe a few other colors. i customized it by installing two of the vertical dividers off center - the way they show it doesn't fit standard width a/v components. the furniture is just barely deep enough for the base of the 5060. i installed two slender bolts through the holes on the foot of the stand with nuts underneath the top horizontal of the unit. the tv certainly isn't going anywhere, but the whole thing does jiggle a bit if you push hard since it's on casters.

my main issue is the center channel speaker. the current position is slightly off-center, which doesn't seem to affect the imaging much but i am going to probably get a new center with a flat face and possibly integrate it into the stand. i do plan on attaching the speakers to the 5060, but i had to get to work this morning. ;)

Thanks schwett. I'll make a run over to their store in Marin and check it out. You also answered my other question because I thought you might have only been running a 2-ch set-up. Do you have surrounds as well or just the front 3, and if so, how did you integrate them into your place?

Thanks schwett. I'll make a run over to their store in Marin and check it out. You also answered my other question because I thought you might have only been running a 2-ch set-up. Do you have surrounds as well or just the front 3, and if so, how did you integrate them into your place?

i'm running 5.1. there's a sub in a discreet location in the left rear corner and two rears ceiling mounted in the rear corners. it's not ideal but the room really isn't a 'theater' room, and it actually sounds pretty good, mostly because i really enjoy the sound from the infinity fronts. very full and clear, in my very-non-expert opinion. if you look closely you can see the center channel sitting on the tivo. at the very least i'll add a shelf there and get a center with a flat face, hopefully i can find one that is a decent acoustic match.

i asked this in another thread, and got a lot of chirping crickets, but maybe someone here can anyone comment on the video quality of a) running a 480i/480p feed from my cheap little yammy dvd player and using the internal scaler on the 5060 VERSUS b) using an upscaling dvd player like the oppo 970hd or samsung hd860.

thanks all!

i'm running 5.1. there's a sub in a discreet location in the left rear corner and two rears ceiling mounted in the rear corners. it's not ideal but the room really isn't a 'theater' room, and it actually sounds pretty good, mostly because i really enjoy the sound from the infinity fronts. very full and clear, in my very-non-expert opinion. if you look closely you can see the center channel sitting on the tivo. at the very least i'll add a shelf there and get a center with a flat face, hopefully i can find one that is a decent acoustic match.
Cool - I'm looking to go with in-ceilings as well for the surrounds despite the compromise in sound quality to achieve a more minimalist look.

Cool - I'm looking to go with in-ceilings as well for the surrounds despite the compromise in sound quality to achieve a more minimalist look.

actually ours aren't in-ceiling, they're surface mounted at the ceiling. there's no cavity between the ceiling and the underside of the concrete slab above, so recessing anything is essentially a no go. the surrounds are a good match in color and the wiring is concealed in the crown molding, so it's ok. not ideal, but i don't really notice them much anymore. sound is clearly three dimensional and movement is not bad front to back but left to right is a little dodgy, possibly because the right is much further away than the left... it's not distracting though, and the geometry of the room prohibits anything much better.

i asked this in another thread, and got a lot of chirping crickets, but maybe someone here can anyone comment on the video quality of a) running a 480i/480p feed from my cheap little yammy dvd player and using the internal scaler on the 5060 VERSUS b) using an upscaling dvd player like the oppo 970hd or samsung hd860.

thanks all!

I am using the OPPO 971 with my Pio 4360 and am very happy with the look of SD DVDs.
I have seen set-ups (on other plasmas) at stores and friend's places with several other DVD players that claim to upconvert SD to 720P, but nothing like what I am seeing with the OPPO!
I am very happy with it!
No macro blocking at all, very clean nice sharp images.
No idea how it is doing such a good job.
I have tested many DVDs from "the Aviator" to "Amelie" and "Monster's Inc."

got my second 5060 today. the previous one arrived shattered. very sad.

still need to do a lot of setup work, mostly related to the center channel, but i love it already. haven't attached the speakers yet (they go on the sides) but i'm not 100% sure i'm going to... lots of other little setup stuff to do but it'll have to wait. :D

sorry for the bad pics, it's REALLY bright outside right now, those are south facing windows. anyway i'm stoked. this one is perfect. no dead pixels, no scratches, looks great. i contemplated getting the 5070 but decided that i preferred having the media receiver and the side mount speakers.

http://www.431.org/miscPics/toob/5234-tv.jpg

http://www.431.org/miscPics/toob/5233-tv.jpg

http://www.431.org/miscPics/toob/5231-tv.jpg

One of heck of a view ;-)

Just wondering why not hang the plasma on the wall and place the center speaker where the plasma is.

Again, a beautiful place you have there.

Cheers,
TP

Help! After playing XBOX 360 Call of Duty II for 2-3 hours a night for several days, I noticed what I thought was simple IR from the status display. I played the anti-burn-in DVD for about 48 hours straight and the IR is still there. I had waited until after 100 hours, had used D-Nice's settings with contrast at about 27.

Any ideas?
Thanks!

just wondering why not hang the plasma on the wall and place the center speaker where the plasma is.

i think if i was going to wall mount it, i would want to do away with all the components at that location period and probably do everything in wall. one of the reasons i like the media receiver design is that it should facilitate that. i also plug a pc in very frequently, for movie watching etc, so having the vga input on the MR is great.

i generally don't like the look of a plasma flush against the wall with a big cabinet sitting underneath it. kinda makes you think, hm, why bother if the cabinet is taking up the space anyway!??!?!!?

i do love the wall mount look with nothing else around, speakers on or in wall, etc, but, i live in a pretty old building, with crumbly plaster walls, inaccessible ceiling and floor spaces, apparently random stud, column, and shear wall spacing, so for now i'm not going to go the wall mount route.

[QUOTE=...i generally don't like the look of a plasma flush against the wall with a big cabinet sitting underneath it. kinda makes you think, hm, why bother if the cabinet is taking up the space anyway!??!?!!?[/QUOTE]

Your current set up looks great, nevertheless. Thumbs up on the "Custom-made WestElm".

Cheers,
TP

Are you using Cable Card or TV Guide OS, or are you using it with a cable or satellite box? I've been trying to find out if the fan shuts off in standby when Cable Card is removed and TVGOS is deactivated. The MR on my 4360 (Feb 06 build date) consumes 26 watts in the standby mode (per specification) when the cable card is inserted and this is enough to require the fan to run full time. Pioneer tells me and others who have posted on this forum that the fan should be running in standby, and even sends service techs to replace fans if you complain enough about the noise in standby. Elite owners have registered similar complaints about standby noise and I'm curious to know why your fan shuts off in standby. What is your configuration?

Mine is Media Receiver built for Hong Kong and there is no cable card slot or media guide on this version.

Maybe this is the reason it goes into "full" standby.

since i don't have any true HD content yet, i downloaded a 720p version of the 'cars' trailer. and played it via my laptop running 1280x768 connected to the vga input on my 5060's media receiver.

OMG.

we watched 'oceans 11' earlier, and i was thinking, this looks great, incredibly bright, colors are very saturated but warm and natural, etc etc.

now that i've seen The Real Deal, i understand what the fuss is about. it looks really incredible. just amazing. i can't wait for hd-dvd or blu-ray!!!!

Help! After playing XBOX 360 Call of Duty II for 2-3 hours a night for several days, I noticed what I thought was simple IR from the status display. I played the anti-burn-in DVD for about 48 hours straight and the IR is still there. I had waited until after 100 hours, had used D-Nice's settings with contrast at about 27.

Any ideas?
Thanks!

Sorry to hear about that.

D-Nice says contrast should be at 22-24 for break-in
27 is more like a post break-in contrast setting...

You should also wait until well past 200 hours for gaming...
what was the contrast at when you were playing?

Keep us posted on how it goes...
I have heard it can take months for that sort of thing to go away.

The "flickering" may be due to your power save mode setting as others has said. The "flickering" will not happen when the power save mode is set to Standard. However, I do not recommend using Standard if you have less than 500 total hours on your panel.

I personally use save2 and have only seen the "flickering" once in a blue moon.

I guess this is another case of YMMV. Based on the suggestions here for my "flickering" problem (the one where brightness shifts on its own) I experimented with all sorts of different settings. As it turns out, D-Nice was once again correct - it was the power save mode that was the culprit. I watched some scenes from movies over and over to make sure that the flicker effect was the same each time and it was. In Save2, (which is what I had) the flicker effect was most present. In Save1, it was a little less present; and in Standard it went away.

That said, my experience is different from D-Nice's in that in Save2, I notice the flicker all the time (maybe once every minute or two depending on what I'm watching, of course.)

That brings me to another question, since I've messed with so many settings: What is the out of the box default for Power Save? I don't believe I ever changed it from the default, so is it Save2? Once I get some more time on the monitor (is there a counter somewhere?) I may change it to standard.

That said, my experience is different from D-Nice's in that in Save2, I notice the flicker all the time (maybe once every minute or two depending on what I'm watching, of course.)

That brings me to another question, since I've messed with so many settings: What is the out of the box default for Power Save? I don't believe I ever changed it from the default, so is it Save2? Once I get some more time on the monitor (is there a counter somewhere?) I may change it to standard.

I think the default power setting out of the box is Standard...
I have around 80 hours on my panel and never noticed the flicker you are talking about
(I use save2 and the other break-in settings on my 4360)

here is how to check your panel time:
- this works for Pioneer 4360 and 5060 panels, I am not sure if it is the same for elites.
this info can be found on these forums by searching, but I'll save you some trouble and post what I compiled.

(NOTE: don't mess with any settings in the service menu - just use it to check the hour meter)

Start with the plasma turned OFF.

Press DISPLAY on the remote
(just press, do not hold).
Wait 3 seconds.
Press LEFT, UP, LEFT, RIGHT then POWER (on the remote).

If done correctly, the plasma turns on and the INFORMATION page is
displayed.

Press MUTE (3 times to go to “PANEL FACTS”) and press SELECT.

Press DOWN (1 time) to page through each menu (for instance, to see the multiple pages that make up the INFORMATION section).

“HR-MTR” = the panel time

CAUTION: do not change settings in the service menu if you don't know what you are doing. Everytime I see info about the service menu, there are big warnings that you can totally screw your panel if you change things.

Schteevie, many thanks, my friend. This did indeed work on the 930 Elite.

It looks like I've got 313 hours on the plasma (Main Hour Meter says 1656 hours, which I guess is how long I've had it plugged in, which would make sense since I got it in April.) So I'm still in the break-in period, it seems. Honestly, I hadn't even heard of break-in settings until a week ago, so after seeing I had so "few" hours on the plasma, I adjusted all my settings to D-Nice's recommendations. I know it must be better for the screen long term, but it sure is a less impressive picture for now.

Anyone -

Is there a way to bring up a menu screen (or any other way) that shows the number of operating hours accumulated on the 1130?

TIA,
SrPicman

Anyone -

Is there a way to bring up a menu screen (or any other way) that shows the number of operating hours accumulated on the 1130?

TIA,
SrPicman

dude - seriously...
did you read ANY of this thread?
your question is answered two posts before yours - post 4320.

____________

pintozack, you are welcome - glad to be of help.
I think 313 hours puts you outside of the "break-in" period (200 hours is what I see often recomended), but it can't hurt to dial down the settings for a while.

[QUOTE=Schteevie]dude - seriously...
did you read ANY of this thread?
your question is answered two posts before yours - post 4320.

____________

Yup, (DUDE!) Those instructions do not work on my 1130 Elite (as noted in the post).... Now (DUDE!), seriously, might you have the info for the panel I asked about??

SrPicman

[QUOTE=Schteevie]dude - seriously...
did you read ANY of this thread?
your question is answered two posts before yours - post 4320.

____________

Yup, (DUDE!) Those instructions do not work on my 1130 Elite (as noted in the post).... Now (DUDE!), seriously, might you have the info for the panel I asked about??

SrPicman

the way you worded that post made it seem you hadn't seen the other info.
I would have started by saying "the perovious instructions didn't work for my 1130"... or something like that...

Anyway - weird that it works on the 4360, 5060, and 930, but not the 1130.
no idea what to tell you.

try a search I guess...

Anyone -

Is there a way to bring up a menu screen (or any other way) that shows the number of operating hours accumulated on the 1130?

TIA,
SrPicmanI believe you did it wrong. I have an 1130 and the instructions work. I did it wrong the first couple times, but realized I wrote the left, up, left, right steps wrong. Try rewriting the instructions carefully.

When it did not work the first couple of times I tried it on my 4360, it was because I was not moving through the Left,UP,LEFT,RIGHT,POWER sequence fast enough. Worked fine when I sped things up a bit. Thanks for the tip.

So, has anyone had the chance to check out either the new Samsung Blu-Ray Disc Player or the Toshiba HD-DVD player with their Pioneer plamsa? I'd be interested in commets on how these new formats look on these panels!

So, has anyone had the chance to check out either the new Samsung Blu-Ray Disc Player or the Toshiba HD-DVD player with their Pioneer plamsa? I'd be interested in commets on how these new formats look on these panels!


The Samsung sucks....inbetween 480i DVD and something you would see on HBOHD.

The Toshiba is amazing. Nothing like it out there. Absolutely no noise in the picutre....very very 3D like....there are no words that can descibe it. You have to get one to see for yourself.

Thanks. I figured it out last night. I select the channel on the list and did the "channel edit" option and assigned a channel number like 7.001 (ABC). With the unassigned HD channels +100, I turned them on and assigned a channel number but couldn't get a listing for those overnight. I just have standard cable, so maybe that's why I'm not getting HD channel listings.

I also figured out how to surf without having the channels change by "locking" the channels.After 4 days, the listings appeared on my newly assigned HD channels. Not sure why it took so long. In any case, I've now learned that the TV Guide is as useful as the cable box - maybe a little better since you can customize it.

Is there any way to make the sidebars on the 5060 black? I hate the grey sidebars when I watch 4:3 material!

When it did not work the first couple of times I tried it on my 4360, it was because I was not moving through the Left,UP,LEFT,RIGHT,POWER sequence fast enough. Worked fine when I sped things up a bit. Thanks for the tip.

Thanks for the suggestions. But I have tried it now several times at different speeds and still no luck. I got my 1130 in April, but I wouldn't think that would mean it has a different SM access sequence (?)

BTW: I'm using the Up, Down, Left, Right arrow keys on the remote. Can't imagine that's wrong.

Any thoughts? Anybody?

Thx,
SrPicman

Thanks for the suggestions. But I have tried it now several times at different speeds and still no luck. I got my 1130 in April, but I wouldn't think that would mean it has a different SM access sequence (?)

BTW: I'm using the Up, Down, Left, Right arrow keys on the remote. Can't imagine that's wrong.

Any thoughts? Anybody?

Thx,
SrPicman


Instead of waiting 3 seconds after pressing the display button, try waiting 5-6 seconds.

Instead of waiting 3 seconds after pressing the display button, try waiting 5-6 seconds.


BINGO!!

That did it! Many thanks. I now know I have 251 hrs 5 min. on the panel. Everything else too scary to even look at very long.

All you guys (and gals) ROCK!!

Thanks again,
SrPicman

My 5060HD -

Great setup jhimmel. As close to a perfect job of integrating a TV into a room as I've seen.

i put the speakers on my 5060 and got the cablecard installed for comcast. i am really blown away by the quality of broadcast hd (fsn bay area, discovery, etc) and also by 720p windows media files played via the vga input. i put a $25 s/pdif adapter on my laptop so i can get full ac-3 through that setup as well.

pics with hd content

http://www.431.org/miscPics/toob/5506-800.jpg

http://www.431.org/miscPics/toob/5516-800.jpg

^^looking good schwett!

I just picked up an 1130 last night and am loving it! I hooked it up to my 480p dvd player and watched Firewall and was very impressed with the picture (and to think its not even calibrated yet!). I cant wait to watch HD on it (the service wont be available in my area for another week or so).

I do have a slight problem. It seems the audio from my receiver isnt synched with the TV. When I watch a DVD its fine, but for some odd reason when watching TV the audio is ahead of the TV. Any ideas? I read the manual and it said to use the MONITOR OUT inputs to send the audio to the receiver which I did. Will getting a digital opitical cable fix this?

Any input is appreciated!

First post -- I've been lurking for some time. Greetings from Seattle.

I also just set up a new 1130 this weekend. What a nice jump from my older 35" XBR. I've also noticed the audio sync issue. When watching the satellite feed thru my A/V amp, it's fine, as are DVDs. I've only noticed it when I went to an off-the-air channel and fed the Monitor Out on the Pio box to my A/V amp. Hopefully this will all go away when I get the Comcast HD stuff installed in early July.

Cheers, Vic

You guys need to play with the audio delay feature in your AV receiver.

This is pissing me off, I have tried anywhere from 1-10 seconds about 150 times. Nothing is working, I push "Display" wait left, up, left, right, power. TV Guide always shows up no information menu. I'm giving up I gues I will just let it run a couple more months of break in before gaming on it.

This is pissing me off, I have tried anywhere from 1-10 seconds about 150 times. Nothing is working, I push "Display" wait left, up, left, right, power. TV Guide always shows up no information menu. I'm giving up I gues I will just let it run a couple more months of break in before gaming on it.

doesn't work for me either, and i'm usually OK at following instructions. :))

You guys need to play with the audio delay feature in your AV receiver.

My A/V Rx is an older Sony GA8ES unit -- I'm not sure if it has one. I'll check it when I get home.

Vic

Thanks D-Nice. I should have thought of that!

OK -- After reading most of this thread (and parts of others), I'm getting more confused as I go. After getting my 1130 set up, I decided my old Sony DVD player was no longer cutting it. I picked up a NS90V and am feeding the MR via HDMI. It was an improvement over the old set. Here's my confusion......

Am I better off letting the DVD player do the upscaling or is it better to feed the MR with 480i and let the 1130 MR do the heavy lifting? I'm aware that the NS90V won't feed 480i via the HDMI\; I'm presently locked into 480p.

Would I be better off with a different player? Moving up from the CRT world has created a steep learning curve to climb. I want to do it right, but I'm not yet ready to make the Blue Ray (or whatever) leap.

Thanks, Vic

OK -- After reading most of this thread (and parts of others), I'm getting more confused as I go. After getting my 1130 set up, I decided my old Sony DVD player was no longer cutting it. I picked up a NS90V and am feeding the MR via HDMI. It was an improvement over the old set. Here's my confusion......

Am I better off letting the DVD player do the upscaling or is it better to feed the MR with 480i and let the 1130 MR do the heavy lifting? I'm aware that the NS90V won't feed 480i via the HDMI\; I'm presently locked into 480p.

Would I be better off with a different player? Moving up from the CRT world has created a steep learning curve to climb. I want to do it right, but I'm not yet ready to make the Blue Ray (or whatever) leap.

Thanks, Vic

i'm in the same boat as you, and based on some comments in the thread on the oppo 970 and elsewhere i'm going to try it as a 480i source over hdmi. i like the theory that you send a totally unmolested signal to the MR and let it do all the scaling and deinterlacing and pulldown and so on all at once. i guess it remains to be seen if the processors in the MR are really better than what the dvd players might have, but at $150 for the 970 it's easy enough to find out. ;)

I got the same impression from the massive reading job over the last couple of days trying to catch-up, but I wasn't sure if the scaling in the MR would be better than the DVD player or not. I've poked around on several of the threads so as not to appear overly dense, but I'm trying to cram too much info into my brain in too short of a period! This forum appears to have a wealth of info on it, and some very helpful folks. What I need is an "HDTV FAQ for Dummies"!

Cheers, Vic

OK -- After reading most of this thread (and parts of others), I'm getting more confused as I go. After getting my 1130 set up, I decided my old Sony DVD player was no longer cutting it. I picked up a NS90V and am feeding the MR via HDMI. It was an improvement over the old set. Here's my confusion......

Am I better off letting the DVD player do the upscaling or is it better to feed the MR with 480i and let the 1130 MR do the heavy lifting? I'm aware that the NS90V won't feed 480i via the HDMI\; I'm presently locked into 480p.

Would I be better off with a different player? Moving up from the CRT world has created a steep learning curve to climb. I want to do it right, but I'm not yet ready to make the Blue Ray (or whatever) leap.

Thanks, Vic

I went through the same experience and question with a Denon 1720. I decided to let the 1130 do the work, and I have been pleased with the result. Have seen DVDs with PQ that comes as close to HD as I can imagine with a native 480i source. Better than SD TV. I'm still experimenting, but that's my current view.

This is pissing me off, I have tried anywhere from 1-10 seconds about 150 times. Nothing is working, I push "Display" wait left, up, left, right, power. TV Guide always shows up no information menu. I'm giving up I gues I will just let it run a couple more months of break in before gaming on it.After all the putzing around with the service menu, you probably have at least 200hrs by now anyway. :D

Check list of things to do:
1. Press each button at each step FIRMLY for a FULL 1 second.
2. I don't think it matters how long you wait after pressing each button, even the first step, which is the <Display> button. Just make sure you press it firmly.
3. Point the remote accurately.

I got my 5060 on May 26th and have been running it about 10 hours a day during the week. Not much on the weekends. I have a lcd as well and I would like to wait the 1000 hours before I start my NCAA football 07 online adventures. It just pisses me off that I can't get the service menu to work. I will continue to try but not going to get stressed over it.

Yeah, I think I'll box the NS90 up and take it back to Magnolia and try one from which I can get 480i out of the HDMI port. While the NS90 looked better than the old player, I'd like to see what the 1130 can do with the signal. Getting a unit that allows me to select whatever I want from the HDMI port is probably the best bet.

Thanks, Vic


I went through the same experience and question with a Denon 1720. I decided to let the 1130 do the work, and I have been pleased with the result. Have seen DVDs with PQ that comes as close to HD as I can imagine with a native 480i source. Better than SD TV. I'm still experimenting, but that's my current view.

...What I need is an "HDTV FAQ for Dummies"!

Cheers, Vic

Get Oppo971 and you can return it if you don't like it within 30 days. Occasionally, they have refurbished unit for less or check AVSClassifieds for a used one.

I have 971 & Elite 59-avi and I can hardly tell the diff of pic quality on both on 1130. BTW, Oppo service is second to none if that hasn't sold you already ;-)

Cheers,

Getting a unit that allows me to select whatever I want from the HDMI port is probably the best bet.

Thanks, Vic


Like tpham, I also own both the Oppo 971 and the 59AVI. The Oppo is a great player but you cannot send 480i digitally since it's DVI (you can do it through component but then you might as well get the Oppo 970 since it has HDMI). The Oppo 970 will give you the option of using it's own processing or your TV's. With the 971, you are paying extra for the Faroudja chip so unless you REALLY want the option of sending 480i, the 971 is highly recommended. Looks great on my Elite Pro-1130HD. I will second the great Oppo customer support as they are very responsive to their customers and professional reviews comments. You just have to be comfortable making firmware updates through CD and be a little computer savvy.

So, it sounds like letting the 971, using the Faroudja chip, do the upscaling to 720p might be a little superior to sending 480i from a 970? (My wife is gonna kill me....just like it was with my Harley; buying the 1130 was just the downpayment on all the other stuff I need to upgrade!)



Like tpham, I also own both the Oppo 971 and the 59AVI. The Oppo is a great player but you cannot send 480i digitally since it's DVI (you can do it through component but then you might as well get the Oppo 970 since it has HDMI). The Oppo 970 will give you the option of using it's own processing or your TV's. With the 971, you are paying extra for the Faroudja chip so unless you REALLY want the option of sending 480i, the 971 is highly recommended. Looks great on my Elite Pro-1130HD. I will second the great Oppo customer support as they are very responsive to their customers and professional reviews comments. You just have to be comfortable making firmware updates through CD and be a little computer savvy.

haha I hear you vico. my current DVD player does 480i/480p so I may just stick with it for a while, but for $150 you cant really pass up the oppo.

have you been able to fix your audio problem yet? I messed around with my receiver, sony also, and wasnt able to figure it out. I am hoping a digital opitcal cable might resolve the issue, rather then using RCA cables.
So, it sounds like letting the 971, using the Faroudja chip, do the upscaling to 720p might be a little superior to sending 480i from a 970? (My wife is gonna kill me....just like it was with my Harley; buying the 1130 was just the downpayment on all the other stuff I need to upgrade!)

I checked the manual on my Sony GA8ES....the only audio delay is for the rear speakers when in Surround Mode. The only time the lip-sync problem appears is when I look at an OTA station and feed the audio from the Mon Out on the MR to my A/V Rx. When I use the Direct TV feed thru the MR, everything is in sync. I've been looking at the OTA stuff (when they advertise HD) just to see if I can get HDTV on the 1130 (Doesn't seem to work.). Most of the time, I'm on the satellite RX SD and it's OK. I'll be connecting to Comcast on 7/5, with the HDTV package, so I'm hoping there are no issues.

Regarding the OTA HDTV, should the channel label, when you view Display, indicate something different for HDTV (like 5.xxx)? It doesn't look any better than the SD satellite signal and displays, channel 5.0, for example.



have you been able to fix your audio problem yet? I messed around with my receiver, sony also, and wasnt able to figure it out. I am hoping a digital opitcal cable might resolve the issue, rather then using RCA cables.

I checked the manual on my Sony GA8ES....the only audio delay is for the rear speakers when in Surround Mode. The only time the lip-sync problem appears is when I look at an OTA station and feed the audio from the Mon Out on the MR to my A/V Rx. When I use the Direct TV feed thru the MR, everything is in sync. I've been looking at the OTA stuff (when they advertise HD) just to see if I can get HDTV on the 1130 (Doesn't seem to work.). Most of the time, I'm on the satellite RX SD and it's OK. I'll be connecting to Comcast on 7/5, with the HDTV package, so I'm hoping there are no issues.

Regarding the OTA HDTV, should the channel label, when you view Display, indicate something different for HDTV (like 5.xxx)? It doesn't look any better than the SD satellite signal and displays, channel 5.0, for example.

The monitor out ports do not have synched audio with the display, by design. Thats why they are monitor ports.

You should only use them for "monitoring" purposes ;)

Use the digital out from the MR to your AVR.

Ahhh....lights click on. As mentioned, since it was just an OTA test, it's no big deal.

Thanks.


The monitor out ports do not have synched audio with the display, by design. Thats why they are monitor ports.

You should only use them for "monitoring" purposes ;)

Use the digital out from the MR to your AVR.

Perfect. I will pick up a digital opitcal cable. I was hoping that would solve the problem. Thanks!
The monitor out ports do not have synched audio with the display, by design. Thats why they are monitor ports.

You should only use them for "monitoring" purposes ;)

Use the digital out from the MR to your AVR.

Yeah I am just using SD through an old comcast box right now (non-HD). They are just starting to offer HD in my area this week, so I will be upgrading the comcast box within a week or two. Not really sure about the channel labels since I have just been using the standard comcast box.

How does HD look on your 1130? I cant wait to see it on mine! :D I checked the manual on my Sony GA8ES....the only audio delay is for the rear speakers when in Surround Mode. The only time the lip-sync problem appears is when I look at an OTA station and feed the audio from the Mon Out on the MR to my A/V Rx. When I use the Direct TV feed thru the MR, everything is in sync. I've been looking at the OTA stuff (when they advertise HD) just to see if I can get HDTV on the 1130 (Doesn't seem to work.). Most of the time, I'm on the satellite RX SD and it's OK. I'll be connecting to Comcast on 7/5, with the HDTV package, so I'm hoping there are no issues.

Regarding the OTA HDTV, should the channel label, when you view Display, indicate something different for HDTV (like 5.xxx)? It doesn't look any better than the SD satellite signal and displays, channel 5.0, for example.

If you use the oppo 970 hdmi to the hdmi on the 5060 reciever can you still use the optical audio from the oppo to your audio reciever. Thanks for your response.

question on the break-in settings reccomended by d-nice...

should i be seeing a difference in the picture with it on power save mode 2? the on-screen-description implies that it might not be as bright, etc, but i cannot tell one bit!

i can't get into the service menu to check (tried it about 20 times with varying amounts of delay, holding down button, etc, same result every time, it just turns on), but i probably have about 50 hours on my panel. most of the hours have been with the break-in-dvd running full screen.

D-Nice: Are these the most current break-in settings for the 1130HD?

Thanks in advance!
Last time I promise This is the best yet...just one small correction on the yellow color management control.....

Main Menu:
AV Selection: Pure
Contrast: 30
Brightness: -1
Color: 0
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -2

Pro Adjust
Pure Cinema: ADV

Color Detail:
Color Temp: Manual
R High: -4
G High: -5
B High: -2
R Low: -4
G Low: -5
B Low: -6
CTI: Off

Color Management:
R: -1
Y: -5
G: -7
C: +6
B: -2
M: -1

NR:
DNR: Off
MPEG NR: Low

DRE:
DRE: High
Black Level: On
ACL: Off
Gamma: 2
Others:
I-P Mode: 1

I wish I could tell you. As mentioned, the OTA test didn't appear to be showing HD even tho the station said it was being broadcast in HDTV, thus, my earlier question about the channel labels. The SD signals seem strong enough from the external antenna, but maybe it's not enough for HD. I'll be hooked up to the Comcast HD DVR box on July 5th, so maybe then I can be dazzled...!



How does HD look on your 1130? I cant wait to see it on mine! :D

Still no help with the grey sidebars? Anyone know how to change them to black?

I've got antenna A on my 4360 hooked up to cable and am using it with CableCard to get all my SD and HD cable channels. When I switch to antenna B, which is hooked up to an OTA antenna, however, I get only analog SD channels. This was a surprise because another HDTV that is hooked up to the same antenna pulls in the OTA HD channels just fine. When I called Pioneer, they told me this was normal and that only the antenna A input would receive HD. Was he blowing smoke? Why would this be?

Still no help with the grey sidebars? Anyone know how to change them to black?

Cannot be done on a 4:3 input (at least in the normal menus... there may be a service menu option but no one has mentioned it here)

The options are either grey, or a pseudo-video mode that looks really weird on normal content, but actually looks pretty cool if you are watching a 4:3 concert dvd, i've found. :D

If you go into the settings menu, then into options, i believe it is an option under side-masks.

One way to get black bars if you use a cable box (at least with my Motorola 6412 box) is to have the cable box upconvert all SD content to HD, and set it not to stretch. My moto box results in a 4:3 screen with black bars in 1080i resolution. Of course it is only SD content Upconverted to 1080i, not true 1080i.

Try it and see if you like it. I stretch all the 4:3 content anyway using the Natural Wide picture mode, so I dont care what my side-masks are set to.

I've got antenna A on my 4360 hooked up to cable and am using it with CableCard to get all my SD and HD cable channels. When I switch to antenna B, which is hooked up to an OTA antenna, however, I get only analog SD channels. This was a surprise because another HDTV that is hooked up to the same antenna pulls in the OTA HD channels just fine. When I called Pioneer, they told me this was normal and that only the antenna A input would receive HD. Was he blowing smoke? Why would this be?
The ant A input is the only HD capable antenna input. This is fact. It is in the feature list pdf tear sheet. (linked inside the link in my signature)

Dual NTSC tuners and ATSC tuner

Ant A is NTSC (SD) & ATSC (HD), Ant B is only NTSC (SD) -- this is also in the manual in several locations, as well as posted in this thread several bazillion times ;)

The natural follow-up answer is this... you cannot do OTA (HD) + Cablecard (HD) without buying some additional hardware. This is probably the only limitation I found annoying, as there are a few local HD OTA stations that are not carried on cable yet. I bought an external OTA tuner and have it hooked to a Component port and that was solved though. ~$175 for the tuner I got. (http://www.epvision.com/#DirectBuyFromOriginalDesigner)

If you use an external cable box and not cablecard, you wont have this limitation. It only appears when using CableCard (which uses the Ant A tuner) and trying to get OTA hd also (there is no second HD tuner, therefore no OTA HD)

What model was the "other HDTV"?

Got it. I thought you were getting HD through satellite for some reason.

I am about to give comcast a call to see when they can hook up HD...cant wait!
I wish I could tell you. As mentioned, the OTA test didn't appear to be showing HD even tho the station said it was being broadcast in HDTV, thus, my earlier question about the channel labels. The SD signals seem strong enough from the external antenna, but maybe it's not enough for HD. I'll be hooked up to the Comcast HD DVR box on July 5th, so maybe then I can be dazzled...!

The ant A input is the only HD capable antenna input. This is fact. It is in the feature list pdf tear sheet. (linked inside the link in my signature)

Ant A is NTSC (SD) & ATSC (HD), Ant B is only NTSC (SD) -- this is also in the manual in several locations, as well as posted in this thread several bazillion times ;)

The natural follow-up answer is this... you cannot do OTA (HD) + Cablecard (HD) without buying some additional hardware. This is probably the only limitation I found annoying, as there are a few local HD OTA stations that are not carried on cable yet. I bought an external OTA tuner and have it hooked to a Component port and that was solved though. ~$175 for the tuner I got. (http://www.epvision.com/#DirectBuyFromOriginalDesigner)

If you use an external cable box and not cablecard, you wont have this limitation. It only appears when using CableCard (which uses the Ant A tuner) and trying to get OTA hd also (there is no second HD tuner, therefore no OTA HD)

What model was the "other HDTV"?

Thanks for the quick reply. I missed the fact that DTV was included in the description of antenna A, but not in antenna B. The other TV on the OTA antenna is a Samsung LN-S2651D that is not hooked up to cable. That TV also gets HD only on antenna A.
Would the OTA tuner you referenced still be your choice?

Nah....I have the SD Direct TV TIVO box. Rather than buying the new box, bigger antenna and all the LNB stuff, I decided to switch to Comcast. My bride wants the "on-demand" stuff. Since Comcast is installing it all for free, it's the less expensive route.

So far, I love the 1130 -- I'm anxious to see some HD on it. I'll keep playing around with the OTA on input A to see if I can get it to work.

Got it. I thought you were getting HD through satellite for some reason.

I am about to give comcast a call to see when they can hook up HD...cant wait!

Yeah, I think I'll box the NS90 up and take it back to Magnolia and try one from which I can get 480i out of the HDMI port. While the NS90 looked better than the old player, I'd like to see what the 1130 can do with the signal. Getting a unit that allows me to select whatever I want from the HDMI port is probably the best bet.

Thanks, Vic

Seems there are mixed feelings about whether or not an upscaling DVD player gives an improved picture or not.

Many say the Oppo 971 gives the best PQ but others say it has audion synch and macroblocking issues "on some displays".

The Oppos 970 also comes up a lot in the forums...and seems to evade the Macroblocking issue.

How about the other players? Pioneer 490V for instance? Or the Sony N75/N76. Or Denon?

Yes others say there is no visible difference with the upscaled DVD player output at 720 /1080 versus the "raw" 480i feed. And a few say that the upscaled picture is actually worse on poor print DVD's as it shows up more noise.

I have trawled through the forums and still cannot find a definitive answer. But then maybe there isnt one!

Any input ? (no pun intended!)

Hmmmm, looks like these settings are more recent or the other settings are 'post' break-in.

D-Nice when you have a chance, can you confirm which ones I should be using for break-in on an 1130? Thanks!
Settings vary for DVD players per manufacturer. Here are some simple "universal" settings that should get you thru your dvd break-in....

Main Menu:
AV Selection: Pure
Contrast: 24
Brightness: -1
Color: +2
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -2

Pro Adjust
Pure Cinema: ADV

Color Detail:
Color Temp: Mid-Low
CTI: Off

NR:
DNR: Off
MPEG NR: Low

DRE:
DRE: High
Black Level: On
ACL: Off
Gamma: 2
Others:
I-P Mode: 1

Make sure you change the Power Save mode to save2

D-Nice: Are these the most current break-in settings for the 1130HD?

Thanks in advance!

No they are not. You can try these....

Main Menu:
AV Selection: Pure
Contrast: 22
Brightness: -1
Color: +2
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -2

Pro Adjust
Pure Cinema: ADV or Off

Color Detail:
Color Temp: Manual
R High: -4
G High: -5
B High: -5
R Low: -5
G Low: -5
B Low: -6
CTI: Off

Color Management:
R: -1
Y: -5
G: -7
C: +6
B: -2
M: -1

NR:
DNR: Off
MPEG NR: Low

DRE:
DRE: Off
Black Level: On
ACL: Off
Gamma: 2
Others:
I-P Mode: 1

Make sure you change the Power Save mode to save2

^^^ Thanks D-Nice. I will update my settings tonight.

Thanks for the quick reply. I missed the fact that DTV was included in the description of antenna A, but not in antenna B. The other TV on the OTA antenna is a Samsung LN-S2651D that is not hooked up to cable. That TV also gets HD only on antenna A.
Would the OTA tuner you referenced still be your choice?

The Samsung doesnt have dual tuners that I know of, so It must just multiplex its tuner to both inputs. You still cannot watch two HD shows PIP simultaneously on it correct? That would require dual tuners...

That OTA tuner is the best for limited cash. The only thing I would use it for is OTA. I wouldnt hook it to a cable stream and try to pick up unencrypted QAM HD stations.

There is a thread on it in the HDTV Reception Hardware Forum (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=638769&highlight=epboard) As you read the thread, be advised the problems with the optical port and subchannel access have been fully fixed in units shipping now.

It gets very good reception/pq for OTA, which was my requirement above all else. FYI the "Channel List" IR code is the same as volume down code on a Pioneer TV, so thats a bit of a downer if you use the plasma volume control. I dont use the plasma volume as my AVR has seperate volume controls, but everytime I push the plasma's volume down, the channel list menu comes up on the tuner. And vice versa, every time I press the channel list button on the tuners remote, the volume display pops up on the plasma. That one is the biggie. Of course if you are only switching between a few stations, the channel list feature isnt a big deal to just not use. The channel list is just a button that when you press it, displays all the channels in a list on the left hand side of the screen. You then up/down and pick the channel you want to go to from the list. Handy if you have more than a few stations.

If you just want a box for ONLY OTA HD use, it is the best for the money imo. Best antenna reception of any box I've used.

question on the break-in settings reccomended by d-nice...

should i be seeing a difference in the picture with it on power save mode 2? the on-screen-description implies that it might not be as bright, etc, but i cannot tell one bit!

i can't get into the service menu to check (tried it about 20 times with varying amounts of delay, holding down button, etc, same result every time, it just turns on), but i probably have about 50 hours on my panel. most of the hours have been with the break-in-dvd running full screen.

if you switch between save2 and standard in a low light setting, you will see the difference.

^^^ Thanks D-Nice. I will update my settings tonight.

Are you trying to use these settings for HD or a DVD player?

ssmobin,
When you have 200+ hours on your panel, try these settings with HD and tell me what you think:

Main Menu:
AV Selection: Pure
Contrast: 28
Brightness: +2
Color: 0
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -8

Pro Adjust
Pure Cinema: ADV

Color Detail:
Color Temp: Manual
R High: -7
G High: -6
B High: -7
R Low: -7
G Low: -8
B Low: -9
CTI: Off

Color Management:
R: 0
Y: +2
G: 0
C: -4
B: 0
M: 0

NR:
DNR: Off
MPEG NR: Low

DRE:
DRE: Off
Black Level: On
ACL: Off
Gamma: 2
Others:
I-P Mode: 1

Make sure you change the Power Save mode to save2

ssmobin,
When you have 200+ hours on your panel, try these settings with HD and tell me what you think:

Main Menu:
AV Selection: Pure
Contrast: 28
Brightness: +2
Color: 0
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -8

Pro Adjust
Pure Cinema: ADV

Color Detail:
Color Temp: Manual
R High: -7
G High: -6
B High: -7
R Low: -7
G Low: -8
B Low: -9
CTI: Off

Color Management:
R: 0
Y: +2
G: 0
C: -4
B: 0
M: 0

NR:
DNR: Off
MPEG NR: Low

DRE:
DRE: Off
Black Level: On
ACL: Off
Gamma: 2
Others:
I-P Mode: 1

Make sure you change the Power Save mode to save2

why the change??

looks different than the ISF settings :confused: Have you been messing with it again?! :p

Tinkering as usual.

Are you trying to use these settings for HD or a DVD player?

I am using the break-in settings with a the OPPO 971 DVD player.
(don't have cable hooked up yet)

why do you ask? is there a difference between breakin gin with HD cable or a DVD player?

I am playing various movies and the break-in DVD stretched out in ZOOM mode to avoid any black bars or static images.

thnx

We had a storm last night and lost power. Come down this morning and didn't see the red light on my 1130. Checked the MR, and the Standby light is blinking red, but won't turn on. I unplugged the power cord (goes into a Panamax surge protector) and plugged it back in, and the light continues to blink. Everything else that is plugged into the Panamax is fine.

Any ideas?

We had a storm last night and lost power. Come down this morning and didn't see the red light on my 1130. Checked the MR, and the Standby light is blinking red, but won't turn on. I unplugged the power cord (goes into a Panamax surge protector) and plugged it back in, and the light continues to blink. Everything else that is plugged into the Panamax is fine.

Any ideas?
I had something similar happen to my 1120 a couple weeks ago - no lighrt on panel but blinking light on MR. I ended up unplugging the MR and the panel and let them sit for a minute, then plugged both back in and hit the power button on the panel (not the MR), that got both red lights to stay on, then I used the remote to turn everything on and it worked. It happened after a brown out, been fine ever since.

I was using those settings while watching SD as I wont have HD for another week or so.

Should I use different settings when watching a DVD?Are you trying to use these settings for HD or a DVD player?

Sweet, thanks.

I noticed last night that the picture on SD was much better with the settings you gave me yesterday. I will try these out once I meet the 200 hour mark and I finally have HD :)
ssmobin,
When you have 200+ hours on your panel, try these settings with HD and tell me what you think:

Is HDMI the only port that will allow you to select what you want? Do you make that change on the DVD player or on the TV?

I have an older DVD player, first generation Toshiba progressive DVD player (SD-5109), and it outputs in 480i/480p but it doesnt have HDMI. :( I originally set it up with 480p and the picture looked really good. I switched it to the 480i input and didnt see much of a difference (other then it changing from 480p/480i after selecting the input on the 1130).

So I am not sure if I can let the MR on the 1130 'do the work' if I dont have HDMI. Can anyone confirm this?
Yeah, I think I'll box the NS90 up and take it back to Magnolia and try one from which I can get 480i out of the HDMI port. While the NS90 looked better than the old player, I'd like to see what the 1130 can do with the signal. Getting a unit that allows me to select whatever I want from the HDMI port is probably the best bet.

Thanks, Vic

Is HDMI the only port that will allow you to select what you want? Do you make that change on the DVD player or on the TV?

I have an older DVD player, first generation Toshiba progressive DVD player (SD-5109), and it outputs in 480i/480p but it doesnt have HDMI. :( I originally set it up with 480p and the picture looked really good. I switched it to the 480i input and didnt see much of a difference (other then it changing from 480p/480i after selecting the input on the 1130).

So I am not sure if I can let the MR on the 1130 'do the work' if I dont have HDMI. Can anyone confirm this?

I use component interface between my Denon 1720 and my 1130. Have not (yet) tried HDMI for anything.

I can't seem to find previous discussion on this, but...

I've noticed that when using the PC, bright lines bleed horizontally across the screen. Does anyone else notice this and what causes this problem? There's always image retention too. For example, I can open a blank notepad and move it over a desktop icon. The icon will show through the notepad. I've now started to keep the brightness at -15 and contrast at 10 in PC mode. It doesn't resolve the problem, but better than nothing.

Is HDMI the only port that will allow you to select what you want? Do you make that change on the DVD player or on the TV?

HDMI, unlike DVI, gives you the possibility of outputting 480i digitally to your TV. Of course this capability depends on your DVD player as not all HDMI dvd players have this capability included by the manufacturer. If you are able to choose 480i in the menu, then you are bypassing the DVD player's progressive capabilities and relying on the TV's line-doubling and/or processing. 480i is also possible using component from a capable player but then you are no longer in the digital domain.

I'm going to use the Oppo 971 as an example:

DVI connection - bypasses TV processing, not 480i capable
component connection - is 480i only for this DVD player, will use TV's processing but analog

Now the Oppo 970 as an alternative:

HDMI - you have option of 480i or higher so you can choose which device will process
component - capable of both 480i, 480p, and higher (CSS limited)

As you can see, the 970 is the most flexible and is meant to be combined with either a TV with excellent processing or an outboard video processor. With the 971, you are paying for the Faroudja processing. Hope this helps.

As you can see, the 970 is the most flexible and is meant to be combined with either a TV with excellent processing or an outboard video processor. .

Would you say the PDP 436 has excellent processing and, if so, would 480i be the best signal to feed this display?

I have an old Sony player and the picture is rather good to start with (have not seen better .... yet!)...

I read pages and pages of posts about upscaling DVD players and they all seems to have one flaw or another... OPPO971 gets the best feedback but isnt available in Hong Kong.

Since I have yet to buy, the option to use this resolution (480i) seems to be a good one to have.

Truthfully, very few TV's have good processing, including the Pioneer Elite and non-Elite models. If you consider yourself a videophile, then you already own or are planning to own an outboard video processor (then 480i from the dvd player is super important). If you don't consider yourself a videophile but want a good picture with very little investment, buy a good dvd player that will do the work for you. The best example is the Oppo 971. It's only weakness is macroblocking but the severity is dependent on the display being used. Since you can't get the Oppo player in HK, here are other alternatives that use the same Faroudja FLI-2310 chip:

Panasonic DVD-S97 (can also play DVD-A)
Denon DVD-2910 (universal player, plays SACD and DVD-A)
Denon DVD-3910 (ditto)
Samsung HD960 (newest player for Samsung)

I've noticed that when using the PC, bright lines bleed horizontally across the screen. Does anyone else notice this and what causes this problem? There's always image retention too. For example, I can open a blank notepad and move it over a desktop icon. The icon will show through the notepad. I've now started to keep the brightness at -15 and contrast at 10 in PC mode. It doesn't resolve the problem, but better than nothing.

Do you have 200+ hours on this TV yet? I would not even think of connecting this to a pc or game console until after 200+ hours (under D-Nice's run-in numbers). Image retention should be resolved over time but it may take longer than you think. I don't have 200+ hours yet so I haven't tried connecting to PC.

Truthfully, very few TV's have good processing, including the Pioneer Elite and non-Elite models. If you consider yourself a videophile, then you already own or are planning to own an outboard video processor (then 480i from the dvd player is super important). If you don't consider yourself a videophile but want a good picture with very little investment, buy a good dvd player that will do the work for you. The best example is the Oppo 971. It's only weakness is macroblocking but the severity is dependent on the display being used. Since you can't get the Oppo player in HK, here are other alternatives that use the same Faroudja FLI-2310 chip:

Panasonic DVD-S97 (can also play DVD-A)
Denon DVD-2910 (universal player, plays SACD and DVD-A)
Denon DVD-3910 (ditto)
Samsung HD931

You make a good point here, but an outboard video processor really has limited use with fixed pixed displays lke our beloved Pioneer Plasmas. Since the TV itself will always scale whatever you input to 720P, the only advantage with an outboard processor is to use it for scaling DVD or TV sources up to 720 so that the TV can perform 1:1 mapping. It's just less effective than it would be on a device like a CRT. Strangely, during the course of my ISF calibration on the Elite, we were able to reduce the judder issue significantly by using my Denon DVD-1600 at 480P mode. It has a nice scaler built in and it did a better job than the TV at handling flagged material. I suppose you could get similar results with a good outboard scaler, but the difference in picture qulaity probably wouldn't justify the high cost of an outboard processor.

Of course, your mileage may vary.

For those of you using the 1013 Elite swivel stand, can you tell me how much swivel I can get with it? 45 degrees? Still contemplating whether an articulating wall mount or the Elite stand will work best for my 4360 set-up.

+/- 10 degrees.

Good outboard scalers will cater to your TV's native resolution. I would prefer my scaler to output 1280x768 to my Pro-1130HD rather than 1280x720, for instance. That is true 1:1 mapping. Other 50" may have native rez of 1366x768. The scaler should be able to adjust to that if needed. I decided not to purchase the 1080p Pro-FHD1 because it pratically had the same scaler as my Pro-1130HD. I hope I don't change my mind once it comes into the store. ;)

Good outboard scalers will cater to your TV's native resolution. I would prefer my scaler to output 1280x768 to my Pro-1130HD rather than 1280x720, for instance. That is true 1:1 mapping. Other 50" may have native rez of 1366x768. The scaler should be able to adjust to that if needed. I decided not to purchase the 1080p Pro-FHD1 because it pratically had the same scaler as my Pro-1130HD. I hope I don't change my mind once it comes into the store. ;)

I doubt you will change your mind. The 1080P plasmas have taken a step backwards regarding black levels.

It appears there have been several subsequent posts that should have answered your question. I ordered an Oppo 970 so I could play with the various options. I'll be trying both 480i and the progressive modes out of the 970 via the HDMI port, and will pick the one that looks best to me.


Is HDMI the only port that will allow you to select what you want? Do you make that change on the DVD player or on the TV?

I have an older DVD player, first generation Toshiba progressive DVD player (SD-5109), and it outputs in 480i/480p but it doesnt have HDMI. :( I originally set it up with 480p and the picture looked really good. I switched it to the 480i input and didnt see much of a difference (other then it changing from 480p/480i after selecting the input on the 1130).

So I am not sure if I can let the MR on the 1130 'do the work' if I dont have HDMI. Can anyone confirm this?

I've been waiting for several months for the 1130 - and finally picked it up last night. :) Problem is I'll have to wait a week or two before I can fire it up. :( In the process of moving to an unfinished house, and no electricity yet. I guess I'll do the burn in DVD round the clock as soon as I can to make sure all is good.

This 480i vs upconverting DVD conversation has got me thinking again. I had planned to use the Pio 79 at 480i straight to the 1130, but wonder if I should let the player upscale first? I guess it is really about preferences here, but I still think the panel will do the best job with 480i.

Any others with similar setups and ideas? BTW, this forum was the motivation to upgrade our equipment, much to the detriment of our bank account! Thanks to all for patiently responding - especially when us noobs ask silly questions!

I had planned to use the Pio 79 at 480i straight to the 1130, but wonder if I should let the player upscale first? I guess it is really about preferences here, but I still think the panel will do the best job with 480i.

Unfortunately, it seems the 79 takes a step back in video quality compared to the older model it replaces, the 59avi. I would definitely experiment to see which device does the best job but my money is on the TV. Here is an article for your reference:

Secrets DV-79AVI benchmark (http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-bin/shootout.cgi?function=search&articles=125#Pioneer%20EliteDV-79AVi%20Universal%20DVD%20Player%20(HDMI))

Thanks for the info.

I will probably just use my old DVD player for a while, then I will look into buying something that will give me more flexibility.
HDMI, unlike DVI, gives you the possibility of outputting 480i digitally to your TV. Of course this capability depends on your DVD player as not all HDMI dvd players have this capability included by the manufacturer. If you are able to choose 480i in the menu, then you are bypassing the DVD player's progressive capabilities and relying on the TV's line-doubling and/or processing. 480i is also possible using component from a capable player but then you are no longer in the digital domain.

I'm going to use the Oppo 971 as an example:

DVI connection - bypasses TV processing, not 480i capable
component connection - is 480i only for this DVD player, will use TV's processing but analog

Now the Oppo 970 as an alternative:

HDMI - you have option of 480i or higher so you can choose which device will process
component - capable of both 480i, 480p, and higher (CSS limited)

As you can see, the 970 is the most flexible and is meant to be combined with either a TV with excellent processing or an outboard video processor. With the 971, you are paying for the Faroudja processing. Hope this helps.

Unfortunately, it seems the 79 takes a step back in video quality compared to the older model it replaces, the 59avi. I would definitely experiment to see which device does the best job but my money is on the TV. Here is an article for your reference:

Secrets DV-79AVI benchmark (http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-bin/shootout.cgi?function=search&articles=125#Pioneer%20EliteDV-79AVi%20Universal%20DVD%20Player%20(HDMI))

If you read the 79avi thread, you will quickly see that many owners have issues with Kris's benchmark for this player. Kris (man behind Secrets) posts here and is a great guy.

You should check out the thread and try the player for yourself. Everyone who sees a movie in my house has been blown away.

I would prefer my scaler to output 1280x768 to my Pro-1130HD rather than 1280x720, for instance.

can you input to the 1130 at this resolution over DVI or HDMI... or only the front panel VGA input on the MR?

only the VGA.

can you input to the 1130 at this resolution over DVI or HDMI... or only the front panel VGA input on the MR?

Technically, everytime you watch FOXHD, ESPNHD, or ABCHD, the source is [1280]x720p. The 1130 takes the signal and scales it to its native resolution (768p). As a matter of fact, my Scientific Atlanta box allows me to output HD in either 720p or 1080i so that I don't get the annoying flicker when switching b/w the two resolutions. I currently have all HD from the cable box outputting 720p through HDMI.

And yes, this can be done through DVI or HDMI. The advantage of the external scaler is it can do all of the hard work and output to your TV's native rez.

If you read the 79avi thread, you will quickly see that many owners have issues with Kris's benchmark for this player.

Are you sure it isn't more because they paid for a flagship player that doesn't have flagship performance? Please give me a link to the thread and I'll give it a quick read. I own the 59avi and we have a 79avi in the store.

That's also my thought about ordering the Oppo-970. I wanted to experiment with something that gave me the option of trying several different combinations. The NV90S looked much better than my old (non-HDMI) Sony player, but I didn't have the option of trying 480i over the HDMI. I might discover that the DVD players do a better job than the PRO-1130, and some empirical testing will hopefully determine that.


Thanks for the info.

I will probably just use my old DVD player for a while, then I will look into buying something that will give me more flexibility.

:cool:

Let me know what you find out!

I am finally getting HD installed on Monday, so that should keep me busy/happy for a while until I figure out what to do with my DVD player :D
That's also my thought about ordering the Oppo-970. I wanted to experiment with something that gave me the option of trying several different combinations. The NV90S looked much better than my old (non-HDMI) Sony player, but I didn't have the option of trying 480i over the HDMI. I might discover that the DVD players do a better job than the PRO-1130, and some empirical testing will hopefully determine that.

If you read the 79avi thread, you will quickly see that many owners have issues with Kris's benchmark for this player. Kris (man behind Secrets) posts here and is a great guy.

You should check out the thread and try the player for yourself. Everyone who sees a movie in my house has been blown away.

Yea, that was an interesting thread for a while! I'm satisfied that this combo (along with a 74 receiver) will be just fine. Do you run 480i straight into your 1130? Sorry if you've answered that before.

Technically, everytime you watch FOXHD, ESPNHD, or ABCHD, the source is [1280]x720p. The 1130 takes the signal and scales it to its native resolution (768p). As a matter of fact, my Scientific Atlanta box allows me to output HD in either 720p or 1080i so that I don't get the annoying flicker when switching b/w the two resolutions. I currently have all HD from the cable box outputting 720p through HDMI.

And yes, this can be done through DVI or HDMI. The advantage of the external scaler is it can do all of the hard work and output to your TV's native rez.
6G Pioneer sets do not accept native rate over anything except VGA :) Supported resolutions for HDMI and VGA are listed in the manual in seperate tables. HDMI is on page 69, pc on 76. (Whoops! thats in the Elite manual.. dont know if the 5060/4360 are on same pages or not... pdf link to manual is inside link in my sig)

The 79avi thread is here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=578758&highlight=79avi).

Yea, that was an interesting thread for a while! I'm satisfied that this combo (along with a 74 receiver) will be just fine. Do you run 480i straight into your 1130? Sorry if you've answered that before.
I actually prefer my 79avi set at 1080i via HDMI, but yes, it is just a preference. I actually have not tried 480i since my last round of tweaking... something to do over the holidays.

I actually prefer my 79avi set at 1080i via HDMI, but yes, it is just a preference. I actually have not tried 480i since my last round of tweaking... something to do over the holidays.

Thanks MB, I'll be interested in hearing your opinions.

Truthfully, very few TV's have good processing, including the Pioneer Elite and non-Elite models. If you consider yourself a videophile, then you already own or are planning to own an outboard video processor (then 480i from the dvd player is super important). If you don't consider yourself a videophile but want a good picture with very little investment, buy a good dvd player that will do the work for you. The best example is the Oppo 971. It's only weakness is macroblocking but the severity is dependent on the display being used.

Many thanks EWL5!

I dont think I am a videophile .... yet! Better stop reading these forums or I will become one though! I thought a scaler was something you skin fish with a week ago...

Is the Faroudja FLI-2310 chip essential? BKK (Parent company of OPPO) sell a HK version of the OPPO970 machine here - the BKK988 which uses the Mediatek chip only though.

Somewhere else I read that OPPO recommend the 970 for displays up to 37 and the 971 for larger displays... so do you think I will see any improvement with a mediatek chipped player into my 436?

Its just so tempting.... US$113 with an HDMI cable ... anything else similar is at least 30% more expensive...

Somewhere else I read that OPPO recommend the 970 for displays up to 37 and the 971 for larger displays... so do you think I will see any improvement with a mediatek chipped player into my 436?

Ultimately, it depends on how far away you are sitting from your 43" TV. If you're within 6 ft sitting distance, you may want to get a dvd player with Faroudja. Beyond 6 feet and everything is more or less the same. The BKK988 will do a fine job in this case and give you the option of external scaler in the future. It also plays SACD and DVD-A and make an audiophile out of you yet! The Oppo/BKK players are great values in this high margin hobby.

6G Pioneer sets do not accept native rate over anything except VGA

I must have misunderstood schwett's question to mean 720p instead of 768p over HDMI. In this case 768p only over VGA is correct.

The 79avi thread is here.

Thanks for the link. The thread includes mixed opinions at best. There are owners who both love the player and also agree with Kris' findings. I had the opportunity to purchase either the 59avi or 79avi. Seeing these products on a weekly basis and having read Kris' objective report forced me to lean more towards the 59avi (the price difference was a big factor too). I think oliverlim said it best,

But yes for 90% or more of the public, they may not notice it and thats fine. But at this price point of US$1K or so, I think we have every right to ask for "better" performance. Note that this model is not really for the public. The general public buys mainly DVD players in the US$150-450 range. Players in this range are more for people who are keen to get "better" picture quality or audio quality. But hey I also have the Pio 79 and one some days I prefer its picture over my Denon 2900 and on others...... Lets just say I love both my players just as much.

I just hate that people who own this player and love this player get up in hands and make Kris change what he reveals as at the end of the day, if you are happy with the player and disagree with the fact that this player still has faults even though you think its the best. Hey thats all that matters. Your money, your player and your eyes/ears. Who cares what others say.

Oliver

The 59avi SKU has been around for 2+ years. The 79avi SKU was around for maybe half a year before it recently gained "discontinued" status. Pioneer is putting all its eggs in the Blu-ray basket. The 79avi is the last Elite dvd player and marks the end of an era.

I did not mean to disparage any 79avi owners out there. Just making some observations from a retail point of view. We don't make a living trying to sell cheaper, older products over new...

Somewhere else I read that OPPO recommend the 970 for displays up to 37 and the 971 for larger displays... so do you think I will see any improvement with a mediatek chipped player into my 436?

if you ask oppo directly, i imagine they'll say the same thing they told me about the 5060, which is that they think the internal scaler is good enough to go with the 970 instead... whether they're 100% right on that, who knows, but i'll let you know what i think tomorrow. ;)

Anyone how does the Toshiba HD-A1 look with their pioneer plasma. I have the 5060 so any input would be appreciated.

thanks

if you ask oppo directly, i imagine they'll say the same thing they told me about the 5060, which is that they think the internal scaler is good enough to go with the 970 instead... whether they're 100% right on that, who knows, but i'll let you know what i think tomorrow. ;)

Thanks a lot schwett !

Will wait for yoru report :)

Anyone how does the Toshiba HD-A1 look with their pioneer plasma. I have the 5060 so any input would be appreciated.

I don't know about you guys but I wouldn't touch anything HD-DVD or Blu-ray with a ten foot pole. Here are my top reasons:

1) HD-A1 will not carry lossless audio over to receiver. HDMI 1.3 was just finalized so expect 2nd gen players to have this capability. You can expect HDMI 1.3 switching receivers to be available next year as well. PS3 will be first HDMI 1.3 device in Nov!
There are already HD-DVD's out with the lossless tracks but you can't play them on current receivers!!!

2) HD-A1 does not output 1080p. I know this means squat to most people but Toshiba is really catering to early adopters. Early adopters most likely have TV's that can take 1080p inputs like the 42" Westinghouse LCD. I am a performance oriented guy so to not have the capability (even though the discs are from 1080p masters) would frustrate me!

3) HD-A1 owners are beta HD-DVD users. They find the bugs, complain to Toshiba, Toshiba issues new firmware. We expect this from the computer field but not home entertainment! I guess Gates and company are doing a good job integrating PC's into the living room environment.

We have the HD-A1 connected to a 42" Toshiba plasma in the store (please, no comments. I didn't make this decision). It actually looks pretty good and I have no doubt it will be prettier on the Pioneers. Having said that, buyer beware!

I can't wait to get through the break-in period on my 4360...I'm watching the Argentina game with D-Nice's break-in settings and the picture is just dull!

I can't wait to get through the break-in period on my 4360...I'm watching the Argentina game with D-Nice's break-in settings and the picture is just dull!

watch out for the static score board graphics!
do you have it on "zoom" mode?

I have a 4360 as well, and am actually pretty impressed with the image using the break-in seattings (mind you I have a dedicated theather room with totally controllable lighting at all times.)

I just saw, via the FedEx tracking, that my 970 is on the truck for delivery. Ordered Wednesday, delivered Friday. Not bad...! Should have it tied into the 1130 tonight.


if you ask oppo directly, i imagine they'll say the same thing they told me about the 5060, which is that they think the internal scaler is good enough to go with the 970 instead... whether they're 100% right on that, who knows, but i'll let you know what i think tomorrow. ;)

here's a question for everyone re : the 5060 (and probably 4360, etc)

if i'm watching a 'enhanced for widescreen' dvd which is 2.40:1 (anamorphic widescreen or whatever one wants to call it) it seems that none of the display modes will cause it to 'zoom' in on the center portion of the image to create a full-height 16:9 image on screen. the 'zoom' setting actually stretched the image vertically, preserving the entire frame but distorting it proportionally.

when i'm watching a 4:3 program over the cable in, zoom does actually 'zoom' without stretching, resulting in cropping at top and bottom.

is there no way to do what i want? i've tried both 480i and 480p over component out from my (older) yamaha dvd player and it makes no difference. none of the screen size modes will simply zoom+crop the 2.40:1 image. while i probably wouldn't watch a film like this after the break in period, it would be nice to have the option now. very few DVDs seem to be 1.85:1.

watch out for the static score board graphics!
do you have it on "zoom" mode?

I have a 4360 as well, and am actually pretty impressed with the image using the break-in seattings (mind you I have a dedicated theather room with totally controllable lighting at all times.)

I've been changing it around, switching picture modes and back and forth between ESPN SD and HD, so never more than 10-15 mins with the scoreboard in any one place. (I've decided HBO is my favorite break in channel, good picture and never any logos.)

Plenty of daylight in here and I'm still on RCA composite connections (picking up a DVI to HDMI cable this afternoon), so not ideal conditions by any means...

I am watching a bunch of DVDs along with the break-in DVD for the 200 hours.
(don't have HD cable set up yet.)

I know what you mean about zoom stretching vertically - I don't see why it doesn't simply "zoom" like it says.

The movies I am using are "the Aviator" "Amelie", "Monstor's Inc." and a few others from my Girlfriends collection.
(all are in "zoom" mode to be sure to fill the screen)

I am still confused about how movies should best be seen without distortion, but with minimal black bars showing.
Letter boxed DVDs are still essentially 4:3 with the black bars right?

so when we watch them on our wide screens, even in "full" mode that is apparently not distortig the image, it must be dostorted simply to fit the 16:9 screen correct?
It would be cool if it knew to cut off some of the useless top and bottom black bars to fit the frame propperly.

The 79avi is the last Elite dvd player and marks the end of an era.


BS.. I called it.

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/v3/pg/press/release/detail/0,,2076_310069593_316080415,00.html

Dated this month.

Chris Walker, quoted in that pr I just linked, is another semi-regular poster here.

here's a question for everyone re : the 5060 (and probably 4360, etc)

if i'm watching a 'enhanced for widescreen' dvd which is 2.40:1 (anamorphic widescreen or whatever one wants to call it) it seems that none of the display modes will cause it to 'zoom' in on the center portion of the image to create a full-height 16:9 image on screen. the 'zoom' setting actually stretched the image vertically, preserving the entire frame but distorting it proportionally.

when i'm watching a 4:3 program over the cable in, zoom does actually 'zoom' without stretching, resulting in cropping at top and bottom.

is there no way to do what i want? i've tried both 480i and 480p over component out from my (older) yamaha dvd player and it makes no difference. none of the screen size modes will simply zoom+crop the 2.40:1 image. while i probably wouldn't watch a film like this after the break in period, it would be nice to have the option now. very few DVDs seem to be 1.85:1.

Do you have your player set to upconvert to an HD resolution or is it set up for 480i ?

Here is something from waaay waay back in the thread that hasnt been posted in a while. Thanks to pstrisik for making it:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6546231&&#post6546231

That has pictures of the Pioneer's SD (top) and HD (Bottom) stretch modes and what they look like. It sounds like you are using the zoom function on an HD resolution.

Take a look at that and see if it matches what you are seeing, as those pictures listed are the way the display is intended to perform.

BTW, where has Peter been lately?

Do you have your player set to upconvert to an HD resolution or is it set up for 480i ?

Here is something from waaay waay back in the thread that hasnt been posted in a while. Thanks to pstrisik for making it:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6546231&&#post6546231

That has pictures of the Pioneer's SD (top) and HD (Bottom) stretch modes and what they look like. It sounds like you are using the zoom function on an HD resolution.

Take a look at that and see if it matches what you are seeing, as those pictures listed are the way the display is intended to perform.

BTW, where has Peter been lately?

thanks for that info.

It is what I am seeing.
(I have my OPPO 971 set to 720P)

In that post, he recomends "cinema" mode, which seems to cut the top and bottom of a bit, but leave the sides intact...
I think that is what I was looking for in terms of a display mode that would crop the black bars off a letter boxed DVD, but leave the left and right edges of frame on screen...
Am I understanding that corrently?
Previously, I had planned to use "full" mode to watch DVDs after the break-in period...

EDIT: I don't seeem to have cimema mode on my 4360...
I just cycled through while a DVD was playing, and have "wide", "4:3", "full" and "zoom" - but no "cinema" - is that right?

BS.. I called it.

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/p...6080415,00.html

Dated this month.

Chris Walker, quoted in that pr I just linked, is another semi-regular poster here.

Technically, you are correct. Pioneer is still making DVD players. This new one fell under my radar at $299. Can't say I remember an Elite DVD player falling below $300 but this is a first and I guess a great opportunity for customers to buy into the Elite line of products. Perhaps I should have qualified my claim with "flagship player." I have yet to see an 89avi, etc.

Technically, you are correct. Pioneer is still making DVD players. This new one fell under my radar at $299. Can't say I remember an Elite DVD player falling below $300 but this is a first and I guess a great opportunity for customers to buy into the Elite line of products. Perhaps I should have qualified my claim with "flagship player." I have yet to see an 89avi, etc.I thought the Bu-Ray was not capable of playing music due to licensing. If that's the case, they still need to create DVD players to play music.

If that's the case, they still need to create DVD players to play music.

Pioneer still makes dedicated CD players (Elite and non-Elite). Current models are multi-disc but meant for CD's only nevertheless. Audiophiles need not fear!

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/v3/pg/album/compare/0,,2076_310069820,00.html

thanks for that info.

It is what I am seeing.
(I have my OPPO 971 set to 720P)

In that post, he recomends "cinema" mode, which seems to cut the top and bottom of a bit, but leave the sides intact...
I think that is what I was looking for in terms of a display mode that would crop the black bars off a letter boxed DVD, but leave the left and right edges of frame on screen...
Am I understanding that corrently?
Previously, I had planned to use "full" mode to watch DVDs after the break-in period...

EDIT: I don't seeem to have cimema mode on my 4360...
I just cycled through while a DVD was playing, and have "wide", "4:3", "full" and "zoom" - but no "cinema" - is that right?

Cinema mode is not available at 720p. Wide, 4:3, full, zoom are correct for HD stretch modes.

Full will be fine after the break-in.

You may want to try setting the OPPO to 480i and play with the stretch modes then. That will give you the extra Cinema setting. Honestly speaking, sometimes sacrifices have to be made during break in, for things like non 16:9 movies. But the good thing about break in is that it is only temporary. I am just trying to help you figure out what your options are. You as always are the one who gets to pick what you like best.

Does the OPPO have any stretch modes of its own that could help some? I am not familiar with it...

You may want to try setting the OPPO to 480i and play with the stretch modes then.

Sounds like Schteevie is using the DVI out on the 971 so there is no 480i. He can use the 480i from the component out of the player since there is no Faroudja processing and line doubling there.

Cinema mode is not available at 720p. Wide, 4:3, full, zoom are correct for HD stretch modes.

Full will be fine after the break-in.

You may want to try setting the OPPO to 480i and play with the stretch modes then. That will give you the extra Cinema setting. Honestly speaking, sometimes sacrifices have to be made during break in, for things like non 16:9 movies. But the good thing about break in is that it is only temporary. I am just trying to help you figure out what your options are. You as always are the one who gets to pick what you like best.

Does the OPPO have any stretch modes of its own that could help some? I am not familiar with it...

no problem making sacrifices during the break-in
- I don't even have any sound set up yet.
(and I mean NO sound at all, as I didn't get the speakers with the TV, and don't have a receiver yet :p
I am just running silent movies for break-in.

So I am really mainly looking for POST break-in settings.

Should I plan to use 720P out of the OPPO and then "full" mode on the 4360?
The image looks great to me that way... but I don't know any better. :p

I can't wait to get through the break-in period on my 4360...I'm watching the Argentina game with D-Nice's break-in settings and the picture is just dull!


Yes, they can be dull. However, they will prolong the life of your plasma. You can, of course, boost the picture settings to your liking at anytime.

So I am really mainly looking for POST break-in settings.


There is no such thing as post break-in settings. Adjust the picture controls to your liking.

There is no such thing as post break-in settings. Adjust the picture controls to your liking.

I understand that contrast and colour settings etc... are subjective.
But image scaling/croping is not - it should be as close as possible to the original image - and not distorted.
I am still trying to get a handle on how wide screens "crop the otherwise 4:3 image on DVDs.

see illustration I just whiped up in photoshop


http://www.hookmorefish.com/junk/steve/HDTV-zoom.jpg

The top image is how a regular TV will show the image.

The bottom image is how I think wide screen TVs "should" show the image
- but they never seem to crop JUST the top and bottom
- they often zoom and crop all sides; top and bottom as well as left and right
- or they stretch the whole image black bars included to fit the screen horizontally.

Is there a way to acheive the bottom image?
Full mode seems to look pretty good, but I am still pretty sure it is stretching isn't it?

At night I think the picture looks pretty good. It is a bit dull, but the colors look a lot better then the standard settings out of the box. I was happy with the change and cant wait to try out the HD settings once I get it installed next week!
I can't wait to get through the break-in period on my 4360...I'm watching the Argentina game with D-Nice's break-in settings and the picture is just dull!

I've mainly been using Wide and Cinema display modes depending on the source.

The bottom image is how I think wide screen TVs "should" show the image
- but they never seem to crop JUST the top and bottom
- they often zoom and crop all sides; top and bottom as well as left and right
- or they stretch the whole image black bars included to fit the screen horizontally.

Is there a way to acheive the bottom image?
Full mode seems to look pretty good, but I am still pretty sure it is stretching isn't it?

full mode should give you the result you illustrated, at least on my 5060 it does with all the DVD's i've tried. what i'd actually like to be able to do is zoom in a bit further, cropping some left and right in the name of eliminating the black bars. not the 'purest' thing to do cinematographically (heheh) but good for break-in phase.

But image scaling/croping is not - it should be as close as possible to the original image - and not distorted.
I am still trying to get a handle on how wide screens "crop the otherwise 4:3 image on DVDs.

see illustration I just whiped up in photoshop

The top image is how a regular TV will show the image.

The bottom image is how I think wide screen TVs "should" show the image
- but they never seem to crop JUST the top and bottom
- they often zoom and crop all sides; top and bottom as well as left and right
- or they stretch the whole image black bars included to fit the screen horizontally.

Is there a way to acheive the bottom image?
Full mode seems to look pretty good, but I am still pretty sure it is stretching isn't it?

If you have your player set to 720p and the plasma on full, there will be no stretching errors unless your dvd player is making them. THe dvd is shown in its original aspect ratio. if that is different from 16:9 then there will be bars on top and bottom.

That is with an anamorphic dvd (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anamorphic_widescreen). Anamorphic is a native widescreen disc, "enhanced for widescreen tvs".

With a letterbox dvd (I notice above you are talking about letterbox dvd's too) then I think it might be best to set the dvd player to 480i and use the 480i zoom, which will take a letterbox 16:9 screen and display it full screen.

I use the 480i zoom picture mode all the time when watching Rescue Me on FX in standard definition. The picture is letterbox and 480i, so when I switch to zoom mode it fills the entire tv perfectly, not contorted or stretched funny in any way.

It seems like every dvd player is different about how they handle letterbox discs themselves, so I cant really give any advice without finding out more about your specific player... maybe it has a special setting for letterbox discs. WIth my old LG 511 dvd player, it had a skew mode where you could stretch vertically only. It made the movie stretch funny, but you could get rid of any sidebars you wanted to. But the picture quality sucks on the LG anyway.

Can anyone confirm the inner plasma box dimensions of a 1130 being 53"W x 36"H? Trying to determine if it will fit in a Trailblazer for a ~200 mile journey.

I dont have the exact dimensions with me (as I am at work), but I fit the inner plasma box inside my gfs Hyundai Santa Fe with no problems what so ever. Although, we did have to lay it down on its side (wouldnt fit standing up).
Can anyone confirm the inner plasma box dimensions of a 1130 being 53"W x 36"H? Trying to determine if it will fit in a Trailblazer for a ~200 mile journey.

Can anyone confirm the inner plasma box dimensions of a 1130 being 53"W x 36"H? Trying to determine if it will fit in a Trailblazer for a ~200 mile journey.

Those are the demensions of the panel box. That box is inside the main pallet box.

The panel box, mr box, speaker box, and stand box are all inside the biggest pallet box. The pallet box has a a cardboard case that slides over the top. Once that comes off, The other boxes are inside.

So you will have to open one box before you can get it in your vehicle.

The full demensions of the panel box are 53"x36"x15"

The pallet box is
Carton Dimensions (W x H x D) 61.5 x 46.5 x 21.5
Carton Dimensions (lbs) 169 lbs.

That is the one you have to open and all the others are inside it.

2 pictures of the boxes...
Panel Box (http://www.braham.org/tv/panel_box.jpg) - -The one you are talking about.
Other boxes (http://www.braham.org/tv/boxes.jpg) -- Rest

All of these are inside the main "Carton"

Thanks ssmobin and Malicious for the info and pics!

if you ask oppo directly, i imagine they'll say the same thing they told me about the 5060, which is that they think the internal scaler is good enough to go with the 970 instead... whether they're 100% right on that, who knows, but i'll let you know what i think tomorrow. ;)

i hooked up the 970 today.

compared to my little yamaha dv-s5750, the image is a little clearer. it's not mind-blowingly different in the sharpness / detail category. the colors are significantly better, truer and a little more vibrant. there is more shadow detail. i had both running on the same disc (ended up with two copies of a couple disc) and switching back and forth the color is the most noticeable difference. i must say i don't like the way the 5060 holds different pictures settings for each input. i compared both using the break-in settings d-nice has posted. i'm about about 100 hours on the panel.

this was running both in 480i; the oppo over hdmi and the yamaha over component.

overall the picture quality is highly dependent on the source material. spider man (1.85:1 version) looked absolutely great - the only objectionable thing being some faint comb effects on certain edges. the quality is better than i would have thought possible with standard dvd. on the other hand, '12 monkeys' looks terrible. soft, chunky, flat, etc.

comparing the oppo in 720p to the the oppo in 480i, the 480i picture is slightly crisper, with fewer edge artifacts... but it's really quite hard to tell on most material. having to stop the dvd, switch resolution, and then restart takes about 5 seconds and by then it's hard to remember exactly what it looked like.

one big advantage (for me) of using the oppo's up-rezing (again, 720p over hdmi) is that the zoom function on the player works quite well with 2.35:1 material. zooming the same amount in 480i mode produced an extremely pixelated, unacceptable image. if the 'cinema' mode on the display zoomed in a bit further i wouldn't consider this, but for some dvds i'll probably switch to 720p output and zoom 1.5x on the player side.

all in all, it's an improvement over my yamaha unit but it's certainly not night and day. hard to argue with $150 though, and i will probably almost always use it as a 480i transport.

i hooked up the 970 today.....

...all in all, it's an improvement over my yamaha unit but it's certainly not night and day. hard to argue with $150 though, and i will probably almost always use it as a 480i transport.

Thanks a lot Shwett. Understand about the difficulties in comparing. I tried the same thing this morning putting 525i or 525p signals into my display from my old sony player (over component) and really could not tell any differece at all.

I am in a dilemma whether to get a 970 or not...or the Pioneer 696 for that matter.

Some people say the scaler in the 436 TV is good enough & putting a 480i signal directly into the screen over HDMI and letting that do the work is the best route.

Others say they see a big improvement on the 720p HDMI output from an upscaling player.

Wish I could try a box and return... but there isnt one shop in Hk that will do that unfortunately.

...Others say they see a big improvement on the 720p HDMI output from an upscaling player.

i don't know, i can't imagine that anyone would call what i saw a 'big' improvement when comparing hdmi 480i to hdmi 720p. hdmi vs component, sure, oppo scaler vs pio scaler, i just didn't see that much diff. [except when using zoom mode, as noted above.]

I also hooked up the 970 to my 1130 yesterday. I didn't have the advantage of being able to switch back-and-forth, but the 970 looked great, and much better than my older Sony. It also looked at least as good as the NS90V that I had for a short time, and at less cost. The 1130 seemed to do as well with 480i as with the progressive modes, but the switching lag you mentioned made it tricky to tell for sure. I saw absolutely no macroblocking enhancement, and the image shift I had noticed on the NS90V was not present. Overall, for the price, I'm content to stay with this until the blue Ray wars shake out.

I'm feeding the optical output of the 1130 MR into my Dolby 5.1 decoder, and I was hoping to be able to utilize the audio portion of the HDMI from the 970 but it appears that I can only get 2 channel PCM over that route. I ran a separate optical cable from the 970 to the dolby decoder and it works fine for 5.1. Just one more input to switch. (I'm trying to keep my marriage intact!)

Cheers

i don't know, i can't imagine that anyone would call what i saw a 'big' improvement when comparing hdmi 480i to hdmi 720p. hdmi vs component, sure, oppo scaler vs pio scaler, i just didn't see that much diff. [except when using zoom mode, as noted above.]

need some quick help. I've tried searching both AVS and google, but as this thread is now 149 pages long, its been hard to find. Im looking for at least a 40' link cable to go from the panel to the MR, and i know i've seen links on avs on where to buy this cable much cheaper than the pioneer MSRP. If anyone could direct me, i'de be forever greatful! :)

need some quick help. I've tried searching both AVS and google, but as this thread is now 149 pages long, its been hard to find. Im looking for at least a 40' link cable to go from the panel to the MR, and i know i've seen links on avs on where to buy this cable much cheaper than the pioneer MSRP. If anyone could direct me, i'de be forever greatful! :)

If you search this thread for "keydigital" you will find a 10 meter MR cable that people have had good luck with. Not quite 40' but close. You might contact them directly to see if they have anything longer. I've never been able to find their MR cables on their web site, www.keydigital.com, but am told that they have them if you call. You might also talk to TVA about options as they have offered them in the past. Otherwise, you may be stuck with the outrageous Pioneer prices. They offered a very expensive fiber optics cable at one time.

For those of you who have Pioneer Plasmas with the Media Receiver, and also use an external A/V receiver to process audio signals, which method are you using for routing/switching your audio and video signals? (I can think of these three possibilities)

A. Video Out from sources to MR; Audio Out from sources to A/V receiver; Audio Out from MR to A/V reciever (for TV tuner audio) (using both receivers to perform switching of sources)

B. Video Out from sources to A/V receiver; Audio Out from sources to A/V receiver; Audio Out from M/R receiver (for TV tuner audio); Video Out from A/V receiver to MR (using the A/V receiver as a switcher for most viewing (except TV tuner))

C. Video Out from sources to MR; Audio Out from sources to MR; Audio Out from MR to A/V receiver (essentially using the MR as the sole switching device)

Does one of these work better than the others with respect to audio/video synch? I generally like to be able to customize setting for both audio and video and option A seems like the best method, although the most complicated.

Thanks in advance for the feedback.

For those of you who have Pioneer Plasmas with the Media Receiver, and also use an external A/V receiver to process audio signals, which method are you using for routing/switching your audio and video signals? (I can think of these three possibilities)

A. Video Out from sources to MR; Audio Out from sources to A/V receiver; Audio Out from MR to A/V reciever (for TV tuner audio) (using both receivers to perform switching of sources)

B. Video Out from sources to A/V receiver; Audio Out from sources to A/V receiver; Audio Out from M/R receiver (for TV tuner audio); Video Out from A/V receiver to MR (using the A/V receiver as a switcher for most viewing (except TV tuner))

C. Video Out from sources to MR; Audio Out from sources to MR; Audio Out from MR to A/V receiver (essentially using the MR as the sole switching device)

Does one of these work better than the others with respect to audio/video synch? I generally like to be able to customize setting for both audio and video and option A seems like the best method, although the most complicated.

Thanks in advance for the feedback.

I have an 1130. Since it supports only 2 ch audio (beacuse it only comes with 2 speakers), I route all audio directly from source to my A/V amp. Optical digital and audio from cable box (SA8300HD) to A/V and optical digital and audio from DVD to A/V. I do not (yet) use any of the 1130 tuners. I route all video from source to the MR. I rarely find any audio sync issues. My STB is set for constant 1080i output, so the 1130 does only a single set of conversions/scaling.

I connect mine under A-option: simple & less wires require ;-)

I also run coaxial from cable to AV. If your AV uses On-screen Set up, run a single video monitor.

For those of you who have Pioneer Plasmas with the Media Receiver, and also use an external A/V receiver to process audio signals, which method are you using for routing/switching your audio and video signals? (I can think of these three possibilities)

A. Video Out from sources to MR; Audio Out from sources to A/V receiver; Audio Out from MR to A/V reciever (for TV tuner audio) (using both receivers to perform switching of sources).

Cheers,
TP.

Sounds like most use Option A. That's what I do with my 1130, as well. It would have been nice to have the 5.1 stream on the HDMI as it would have eliminated some cables.


For those of you who have Pioneer Plasmas with the Media Receiver, and also use an external A/V receiver to process audio signals, which method are you using for routing/switching your audio and video signals? (I can think of these three possibilities)

A. Video Out from sources to MR; Audio Out from sources to A/V receiver; Audio Out from MR to A/V reciever (for TV tuner audio) (using both receivers to perform switching of sources)

Due to no electricity YET in our new home, and no available space in our rented place, I still can't fire up the 1130 we got last week :(, but we at least unboxed it for a minute to make sure everything looked OK.

Happy to report that there appears to be no damage. Also happy to see the two card holders for the media receiver were there! Amazing how much lighter this panel is than our 3g 505HD.

On to my question - the panel is a May build :D but the MR is a February build :confused: . Has anyone seen this much of a disparity between the two? Anything to be concerned about?

I recently set-up an 1130. My set had the same build dates. Pretty common, I'd imagine. You're gonna love it!


Due to no electricity YET in our new home, and no available space in our rented place, I still can't fire up the 1130 we got last week :(, but we at least unboxed it for a minute to make sure everything looked OK.

Happy to report that there appears to be no damage. Also happy to see the two card holders for the media receiver were there! Amazing how much lighter this panel is than our 3g 505HD.

On to my question - the panel is a May build :D but the MR is a February build :confused: . Has anyone seen this much of a disparity between the two? Anything to be concerned about?

I recently set-up an 1130. My set had the same build dates. Pretty common, I'd imagine. You're gonna love it!

Thanks for the confirmation - I feel a bit better about it. I'd rather have the later panel date anyway. As good as it looks now, I can only imagine how cool it will be WITH electricity!

I just searched this thread looking for the links and haven't come up with the result.

I remember links to a burn in DVD, I think one for Nero and one without. I don't have Nero - does anybody remember which one is best to use? Hopefully one that will keep looping.

I thought I'd copied it, but I guess I didn't get the right one. :(

Also, I remember D-Nice talked about running a test pattern in the setup menu. Would you recommend using this over the burn in DVD, or together? Just trying to get my ducks in a row and do this the right way for panel longevity.

Thanks for any help.

Just got HD installed from comcast and the box doesnt have an HDMI connector on it :mad:

With the component cables they provided it is broadcasting in 480i. Is there a way to change that or is it all broadcast in 480i using component cables?

If so it looks like its time to go out and buy a DVI -> HDMI connector. Hope this will result in the same PQ as simply HDMI -> HDMI. Can anyone confirm if this is correct? Is the video quality the same or will it be 'less'?

I am going to call comcast and find out if they have any boxes with HDMI. I was told they all come with it so I didnt ask when I upgraded. Sorry for any redundant questions, as you can see I am still a newbie to HD. Any help is appreciated.

Hmmm..... Comcast is coming to install my box tomorrow. I was advised that it would have HDMI -- guess I'll find out when the "cable guy" shows up tomorrow!

My (limited) understanding is that there is no loss from DVI--> HDMI.


Just got HD installed from comcast and the box doesnt have an HDMI connector on it :mad:

With the component cables they provided it is broadcasting in 480i. Is there a way to change that or is it all broadcast in 480i using component cables?

If so it looks like its time to go out and buy a DVI -> HDMI connector. Hope this will result in the same PQ as simply HDMI -> HDMI. Can anyone confirm if this is correct? Is the video quality the same or will it be 'less'?

I am going to call comcast and find out if they have any boxes with HDMI. I was told they all come with it so I didnt ask when I upgraded. Sorry for any redundant questions, as you can see I am still a newbie to HD. Any help is appreciated.

An update --

Apparently, Comcast Seattle is using a Motorola 3412 as their HDTV/DVR box and it does have an HDMI connector. Hopefully, that's what I'll be getting.

Cheers

Check the Cable Forum and the Box Model. I'm sure there's an instruction on how to change the resolution. Don't buy the cable & adapter until you get the new box. DVI & HDMI should provide the same PQ. Do a google on it for more detail explanation.

Cheers,
TP.


Just got HD installed from comcast and the box doesnt have an HDMI connector on it :mad:

With the component cables they provided it is broadcasting in 480i. Is there a way to change that or is it all broadcast in 480i using component cables?

If so it looks like its time to go out and buy a DVI -> HDMI connector. Hope this will result in the same PQ as simply HDMI -> HDMI. Can anyone confirm if this is correct? Is the video quality the same or will it be 'less'?

I am going to call comcast and find out if they have any boxes with HDMI. I was told they all come with it so I didnt ask when I upgraded. Sorry for any redundant questions, as you can see I am still a newbie to HD. Any help is appreciated.

Just got HD installed from comcast and the box doesnt have an HDMI connector on it :mad:

With the component cables they provided it is broadcasting in 480i. Is there a way to change that or is it all broadcast in 480i using component cables?

If so it looks like its time to go out and buy a DVI -> HDMI connector. Hope this will result in the same PQ as simply HDMI -> HDMI. Can anyone confirm if this is correct? Is the video quality the same or will it be 'less'?

I am going to call comcast and find out if they have any boxes with HDMI. I was told they all come with it so I didnt ask when I upgraded. Sorry for any redundant questions, as you can see I am still a newbie to HD. Any help is appreciated.

You should be much more demanding than that when you call Comcast. In the Boston area, all of their Motorola DVRs have been HDMI for more than a year. I assume that they are doing the same with their non DVR cable boxes as well. When the Comcast tech saw that my Moto 6412 had DVI rather than HDMI, he said that it was ancient technology and offered to replace it with the current HDMI version. I decided to wait for the much improved Panasonic DVR that is due to be available in the fall, but suggest that you insist on HDMI if it is the best fit for your situation today.

Thanks for the replies all. I went to comcast, after picking up an HDMI > DVI connector just in case, and found out that in my area you have to request an HDMI box because the area was recently upgraded last week. At any rate, I was able to swap out my box for a new box that has HDMI and I must say I am very, very, impressed with this set. Even SD, at 480i, seems bearable now. HD at 1080i is superb. I am extremely impressed with the PQ and the clarity the set is delivering. I cant wait until its finally broken in all the way and I can get it calibrated.

I have updated my signature link with 79avi DVD player settings for those with this player. I do not include the picture settings for the 1130 as those are made by each person to their liking... but settings in the 79avi are now in the link :D

I have updated my signature link with 79avi DVD player settings for those with this player. I do not include the picture settings for the 1130 as those are made by each person to their liking... but settings in the 79avi are now in the link :D


Thank you for the info, I just bought a pioneer 1130 at Ultimate today, was suppose to be an open box they sold me and ordered a pioneer DV-79AVi at a online store also today.

I'm very interested in your settings for both the 1130 and the pioneer 79 avi
.

Please tell me if your completely satisfied with both of these units, I did a fair amount of reading, and thought this was a pretty good combo, with a small budget I had.

Thanks again,

Thanks for the replies all. I went to comcast, after picking up an HDMI > DVI connector just in case, and found out that in my area you have to request an HDMI box because the area was recently upgraded last week. At any rate, I was able to swap out my box for a new box that has HDMI and I must say I am very, very, impressed with this set. Even SD, at 480i, seems bearable now. HD at 1080i is superb. I am extremely impressed with the PQ and the clarity the set is delivering. I cant wait until its finally broken in all the way and I can get it calibrated.

Well I'm glad you are liking it....I told you, you would be blown away! ;)

Pio Elite FTMFW!! http://forums.offtopic.com/images/smilies/ot.gif

I dont know ifyou are still shopping for a DVD player, but I spent months doing auditions and tests last year, and I ended up with an Oppo 971 for the bedroom, and a Denon 3910 for the main system..... it had slightly better PQ (provided you dont suffer from Macroblocking, which with the 1130 I dont) than the 59avi, and the best audio south of the 5910 and Onkyo SP1000. I know the 3930 is about to come out as well with the Realta chipset (like the 5910) rather than the Faroudja FLI23xx chipset.

Glad to see it worked out for you. I'm expecting the Comcast guy to arrive with the correct box tomorrow, since the Seattle area has been using the HDMI version for some time now. While watching Motorcycle Diaries DVD on my Oppo-970 last night, I noticed the "image squeeze" that has been discussed over in the DVD SD forums -- it was an approx. 1" band top and bottom. Switching from 720p to 480i filled the screen. I'm having a hard time seeing any quality differences -- apparently, the scaler in the 1130 does a credible job. It's likley purists could point out some "stuff" to me, but it looks great, IMHO. I also got the Avia disc, but I'll probably wait until I get the panel seasoned before doing any major optimizing.

Thanks for the replies all. I went to comcast, after picking up an HDMI > DVI connector just in case, and found out that in my area you have to request an HDMI box because the area was recently upgraded last week. At any rate, I was able to swap out my box for a new box that has HDMI and I must say I am very, very, impressed with this set. Even SD, at 480i, seems bearable now. HD at 1080i is superb. I am extremely impressed with the PQ and the clarity the set is delivering. I cant wait until its finally broken in all the way and I can get it calibrated.

I have updated my signature link with 79avi DVD player settings for those with this player. I do not include the picture settings for the 1130 as those are made by each person to their liking... but settings in the 79avi are now in the link :D

Thanks so much for posting these.

There is so much good information on these boards, and I really appreciate all those that take the time and patience to help us newbies get the best experience possible from home theater. So many have contributed - if I try to list everyone I'd forget someone, but D-Nice and MaliciousBraham especially have been very willing to share and help.

Thanks again guys - you really are the reason AVS Forum is so successful! :)

Thank you for the info, I just bought a pioneer 1130 at Ultimate today, was suppose to be an open box they sold me and ordered a pioneer DV-79AVi at a online store also today.

I'm very interested in your settings for both the 1130 and the pioneer 79 avi
.

Please tell me if your completely satisfied with both of these units, I did a fair amount of reading, and thought this was a pretty good combo, with a small budget I had.

Thanks again,
Tim

I am totally satisfied! No regrets whatsoever!

Thanks again for recommending me this set!

I am definitely blown away with HD on the Elite. I snapped a couple of pictures from the A's game in HD the other night and from a special on Yosemite. All I need now is a new A/V stand for the TV (not going to mount it just yet) and I will be good to go.

Thanks again for all the help!

Edit - Finding a new host now...Thanks reverse
Well I'm glad you are liking it....I told you, you would be blown away! ;)

Pio Elite FTMFW!! http://forums.offtopic.com/images/smilies/ot.gif

I dont know ifyou are still shopping for a DVD player, but I spent months doing auditions and tests last year, and I ended up with an Oppo 971 for the bedroom, and a Denon 3910 for the main system..... it had slightly better PQ (provided you dont suffer from Macroblocking, which with the 1130 I dont) than the 59avi, and the best audio south of the 5910 and Onkyo SP1000. I know the 3930 is about to come out as well with the Realta chipset (like the 5910) rather than the Faroudja FLI23xx chipset.

Pics not working, you may want to rehost at another free hosting service such as imageshack.

Ok, found a new host (hopefully this one isnt restricted like the last host)

http://s12.imagehosting.us/uploadpoint/imagehosting_upload_storage/nouser_1425/T0_-1_1425928.jpg

http://s10.imagehosting.us/uploadpoint/imagehosting_upload_storage/nouser_1425/T0_-1_1425929.jpg

http://s10.imagehosting.us/uploadpoint/imagehosting_upload_storage/nouser_1425/T0_-1_1425930.jpg

http://s11.imagehosting.us/uploadpoint/imagehosting_upload_storage/nouser_1425/T0_-1_1425935.jpg

Damn you, ssmobin! Okay, the elite just officially went back on my list. I keep taking it off because I can't afford it - but those pix, well... Congratulations!!

Wow - those pics are incredible!

That is why I am so satisfied with my 1130 ;)

Congratulations on your display! Keep us updated on your experiences and feel free to ask questions!

Thanks for the replies all. I went to comcast, after picking up an HDMI > DVI connector just in case, and found out that in my area you have to request an HDMI box because the area was recently upgraded last week. At any rate, I was able to swap out my box for a new box that has HDMI and I must say I am very, very, impressed with this set. Even SD, at 480i, seems bearable now. HD at 1080i is superb. I am extremely impressed with the PQ and the clarity the set is delivering. I cant wait until its finally broken in all the way and I can get it calibrated.

Comcast in Nashville (one of the more impressive collections of idiots I've ever encountered) offers two HD boxes:
- A standard box with DVI out
- A DVR box with HDMI out.

Unfortunately, with the DVR box you have to pay for DVR service, whether you want it or not. And they are rarely in stock.

Agreed: Excellent pics!

Now for something completely different: I've been kicking around the idea of using an external scaler since the topic was brought up last week here. If I remember correctly, the only way the 1130 can do true 1:1 mapping is through the VGA port, correct? Wouldn't it make sense that if you had a scaler that could adjust to custom resolutions, that one SHOULD be able to achieve 1:1 by using a custom resolution input through the HDMI port? The judder issue with the 1130 is becoming more and more bothersome to me and I feel that I could eliminate this issue entirely by using a Lumagen scaler to handle all of my video inputs. Someone out there please set me straight on this. The tech support folks over at lumagen seemed to be of the opinion that the 1130 was a nice match and would be able to handle true 1:1 mapping. If this isn't the case, it seems to me that an external scaler would be moot.

Gracias, Senors...

Agreed: Excellent pics!

Now for something completely different: I've been kicking around the idea of using an external scaler since the topic was brought up last week here. If I remember correctly, the only way the 1130 can do true 1:1 mapping is through the VGA port, correct? Wouldn't it make sense that if you had a scaler that could adjust to custom resolutions, that one SHOULD be able to achieve 1:1 by using a custom resolution input through the HDMI port? The judder issue with the 1130 is becoming more and more bothersome to me and I feel that I could eliminate this issue entirely by using a Lumagen scaler to handle all of my video inputs. Someone out there please set me straight on this. The tech support folks over at lumagen seemed to be of the opinion that the 1130 was a nice match and would be able to handle true 1:1 mapping. If this isn't the case, it seems to me that an external scaler would be moot.

Gracias, Senors...

Judder is eliminated by turning Pure Cinema to ADV ;)

Thanks everyone, I am very satisifed with my 1130 as well!

Vashti - Originally I was in the same boat as you. I didnt want to spend top dollar on a plasma, but after doing some research and some comparison of my own I realized it is worth the money to get the 1130. Now that I actually have it, I can say I am 110% satisfied with my purchase. Best of luck with your purchase!

Judder is eliminated by turning Pure Cinema to ADV ;)

kinda-sorta. It does take a good deal of it away, but it still has some issues with some of the flagged material that I've run through the panel via DVD. Strangely, by setting my Denon DVD-1600 to progressive scan mode and then the panel to Pure Cinema ADV, I was able to eliminate most of it. The problem is also evident on some of the HD material I'm seeing via satellite. It handles the film flags on most occasions but does sometimes drop out. Again, the judder issue is not huge, but as I am now becoming a video perfectionist, I would love to see as smooth an image as possible.

So, has anyone tried using a scaler with their 1130?

kinda-sorta. It does take a good deal of it away, but it still has some issues with some of the flagged material that I've run through the panel via DVD. Strangely, by setting my Denon DVD-1600 to progressive scan mode and then the panel to Pure Cinema ADV, I was able to eliminate most of it. The problem is also evident on some of the HD material I'm seeing via satellite. It handles the film flags on most occasions but does sometimes drop out. Again, the judder issue is not huge, but as I am now becoming a video perfectionist, I would love to see as smooth an image as possible.

So, has anyone tried using a scaler with their 1130?

I've seen judder on DiscoveryHD recently. However, I blame it solely on the source as my Panasonic 37PX60u produced judder on the same material.

There is no way to get around judder if it is encoded in the source material due to piss poor flagging. An external scaler isn't going to get rid of it.

Thanks everyone, I am very satisifed with my 1130 as well!

Vashti - Originally I was in the same boat as you. I didnt want to spend top dollar on a plasma, but after doing some research and some comparison of my own I realized it is worth the money to get the 1130. Now that I actually have it, I can say I am 110% satisfied with my purchase. Best of luck with your purchase!

You're obviously a happy camper! The pics were great (except for the one with the scoreboard showing the Mariners behind the Angels!)

Comcast did the install today. All new cable and a DVR HDMI box. Up here, they're using the Motorola DCT3412. The video is direct via HDMI and the audio is via optical direct to the Sony Rx Dolby decoder input. I watched the end of the France vs Portugal game on ESPN/HD -- I could see the blades of grass on the field! I'm also very happy with the 1130, and, too, appreciate the help from those that have already "been there, done that".

Awesome! You cant truly appreciate this TV until you have HD ;)

Yeah they gave me the DCT6412 when I went back to comcast and it works great. Now I just need to figure out if my Harmony remote will work with the DVR so I can eliminate having to use multiple remotes! :p
You're obviously a happy camper! The pics were great (except for the one with the scoreboard showing the Mariners behind the Angels!)

Comcast did the install today. All new cable and a DVR HDMI box. Up here, they're using the Motorola DCT3412. The video is direct via HDMI and the audio is via optical direct to the Sony Rx Dolby decoder input. I watched the end of the France vs Portugal game on ESPN/HD -- I could see the blades of grass on the field! I'm also very happy with the 1130, and, too, appreciate the help from those that have already "been there, done that".

Awesome! You cant truly appreciate this TV until you have HD ;)

Yeah they gave me the DCT6412 when I went back to comcast and it works great. Now I just need to figure out if my Harmony remote will work with the DVR so I can eliminate having to use multiple remotes! :p

Yeah, I've been considering the Harmony to reduce the odds of acquiring an ex-spouse! Way too many buttons between the 1130, Oppo & Comcast. Post back when you figure it out.

What's the difference between the 1130 and the 5060? This a bit of a price difference, but I can't figure out what it is

Comcast in Nashville (one of the more impressive collections of idiots I've ever encountered).

Now THAT is funny!

Got my Toshiba HD-A1 HD-DVD player yesterday and hooked it up to my 5060. It is unreal and blows HBO HD out of the water. I was amazed at the color and detail that these units put together produce. SD DVD looks amazing as well this $4500 package was money well spent.

Got it up and running last night. I input the model # of the comcast box into Logitechs site and it found all the buttons for the DVR (hint: they call it PVR on their site).

Made a few minor adjustments and its working great. Just need to add the 'screen size' button to the remote so that I can change between 'Full' '4:3' 'Cinema' 'Wide' etc, then I will be set.

The gf was very happy to only have to push one button rather then use 3 remotes to turn on the TV/change channels/volume.
Yeah, I've been considering the Harmony to reduce the odds of acquiring an ex-spouse! Way too many buttons between the 1130, Oppo & Comcast. Post back when you figure it out.

What's the difference between the 1130 and the 5060? This a bit of a price difference, but I can't figure out what it is

There is quite a bit of info in this thread - I know it's long - about this. You might try searching it for more info, but highlights include:

- The 1130 has much more tweakability with color settings - main difference
- It also allows for ISF calibration day and night modes once calibration is complete
- All black stand and media receiver
- The 1130 has a slot on the media receiver for various memory cards to display pictures (I don't think the 5060 has this)
- 2 year warranty compared to 1 year with the 5060

Some have argued that the processing in the 1130 might be a bit better, but I don't think that was ever proven. Both are wonderful sets - we chose the 1130 for the above reasons. If the price difference isn't that much, go 1130 and don't look back. Either way, you won't be disappointed!

What method is used to exit the service menu
1. if you want to save your changes
2. if you don't want to save anything and leave it the way you started.

This was posted in the 5070 thread and something I've never thought of. I'm sure it's simple, but I wondered if anyone knew/would share how to do this correctly.

I have a 436(0) and happily reached 200 hours.

How turned up the contrast to (a conservative) 24 as it seems okay at that level to my eyes right now.

Two questions:

1. What do CTI and ACL do?

2. Should they be on or off post break in?

Any help gratefully recieved :)

Ian

I have a 436(0) and happily reached 200 hours.

How turned up the contrast to (a conservative) 24 as it seems okay at that level to my eyes right now.

Two questions:

1. What do CTI and ACL do?

2. Should they be on or off post break in?

Any help gratefully recieved :)

Ian

CTI -> Color Transient Improvement -- Smooths out transitions in abrupt color changes. I find it useful in analog SD signals. Specifically 480i from an external cable box via component, svideo, composite, etc. Anything like a VCR, etc. I think it doesnt have much use with a digital signal, especially if scaling isnt an issue.

ACL -> Auto Contrast Limitation -- limits the contrast, but I havent seen it make much of a difference good or bad at either setting.

Try them and go with whatever you like best. If you cant tell a difference on or off, leave it off.

Is there anyway to increase the size of picture that can be displayed in the card slot of media box? Right now a 3 meg picture is the largest picture it can display, it said a 5 meg picture was too big

Is there anyway to increase the size of picture that can be displayed in the card slot of media box? Right now a 3 meg picture is the largest picture it can display, it said a 5 meg picture was too big

No. It is a hard set limitation. The manual does state it can only accept pictures of a certain size.


Readable data files
This system can read only JPEG files that meet the following
conditions:
• Extensions are JPG or JPEG.
• JPEG 4:2:2 and 4:2:0 format
• The image resolution must be less than 2400 pixels in the
horizontal direction and 1800 pixels in the vertical direction.
• The image resolution must be higher than 160 pixels in the
horizontal direction and 120 pixels in the vertical direction.

I'm closing in on 200 hrs on my 4360...I've seen post break-in settings for an 1130 posted here, do those same settings apply to the 4360 as well (the controls that the two models have in common, of course)? Thanks.

I'm closing in on 200 hrs on my 4360...I've seen post break-in settings for an 1130 posted here, do those same settings apply to the 4360 as well (the controls that the two models have in common, of course)? Thanks.

I am in the same situation :cool:
- I'll be hitting the 200 hour mark on my 4360 next week some time.

Based on what I have read here, my plan is to up the contrast from break-in 22 to about 26-28 and maybe boost brightness 1 or 2 points.
If I remember correctly the break-in settings have the colour at -13... ?
maybe up that one or two points?
I am intending to stay with Powersave2 mode.

Let me know what you end up doing and how it works out! :)

CTI -> Color Transient Improvement -- Smooths out transitions in abrupt color changes. I find it useful in analog SD signals. Specifically 480i from an external cable box via component, svideo, composite, etc. Anything like a VCR, etc. I think it doesnt have much use with a digital signal, especially if scaling isnt an issue.

Thanks very much. I have switched CTI on for the sources you suggested. :)

Still looking for a box to fill the HDMI slot though!

I am in the same situation :cool:
- I'll be hitting the 200 hour mark on my 4360 next week some time.

Based on what I have read here, my plan is to up the contrast from break-in 22 to about 26-28 and maybe boost brightness 1 or 2 points.
If I remember correctly the break-in settings have the colour at -13... ?
maybe up that one or two points?
I am intending to stay with Powersave2 mode.

Let me know what you end up doing and how it works out! :)

Yes.. I left mine at Powersave 2 as well. I am helping to keep the Earth green! And my TV the colours is should be :):)

I upped the contrast from up to 24, brightness to +1, turned black level and cti on.
I did not alter the colour setting though as it looks rich enough to my eyes already.

Looks great... though still itchy to have "the best" upconverting DVD played pumping electrons into it...

Hey guys, I have a question. I got into my service menu last night and looked at the total hours screen and saw to my dismay that the display reads 00918h06m!
Am I reading this wrong or does my display actually have 918hours on it? It is kinda strange because I have only had the display for a month and I know that I haven't put that kind of time on it. It was also brand new in the box. Any thoughts?