Hey guys, I have a question. I got into my service menu last night and looked at the total hours screen and saw to my dismay that the display reads 00918h06m!
Am I reading this wrong or does my display actually have 918hours on it? It is kinda strange because I have only had the display for a month and I know that I haven't put that kind of time on it. It was also brand new in the box. Any thoughts?

Yep, that's the wrong menu. I think it's the time the box has been plugged in. Page down thru the menus until you find the panel time.

Yes.. I left mine at Powersave 2 as well. I am helping to keep the Earth green! And my TV the colours is should be :):)

I upped the contrast from up to 24, brightness to +1, turned black level and cti on.
I did not alter the colour setting though as it looks rich enough to my eyes already.

Looks great... though still itchy to have "the best" upconverting DVD played pumping electrons into it...

I am using break in settings (on my 4360), but I was experimenting with some settings just now, and I actually find the blacks look better with brightness turned down to -2 or -3...
Contrast doesn't do much in terms of extreme changes that I can see unless you go way up and way down (I am staying with 24 for now at 150 hours, but might go up as high as 26-28 after break-in, but I don't see a reason to go over 30
- it seems the blacks start to get brighter as you raise the contrast over 30..?)

How "Black" is Black supposed to be on our plasmas anyway...?

If I look up close at the screen when it is on and displaying "black" I can see that all three pixels (red, green and blue) are on very slightly
- is that just the way it is? the pixels are never completely "off" when the display is turned on?

- I was just judging the screen here in the dark (I have total control of the lighting in my media room) playing "Monster's Inc."

Is it possible that the break-in DVD can "burn in" or casuse full screen Image Retention slightly and wash out the black level?
I have probalby used the "break-in DVD" for 40-60 hours of the ~150 I have on my display so far...
(The rest has been various DVDs set to "zoom" to avoid black bars)

Yep, that's the wrong menu. I think it's the time the box has been plugged in. Page down thru the menus until you find the panel time.

I went back and looked again by scrolling with the up and down arrows but could not find anything labeled "panel time" am I still not looking in the right place?

I went back and looked again by scrolling with the up and down arrows but could not find anything labeled "panel time" am I still not looking in the right place?

yeah, you are not in the right place...
the answer is on post 4320 in this thread.
I think this link will take you there:

how to check PANEL time (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7890034&&#post7890034)

yeah, you are not in the right place...
the answer is on post 4320 in this thread.
I think this link will take you there:

how to check PANEL time (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7890034&&#post7890034)


Sweet! Thank you very much, 60hrs 1min so far.

FYI - a recent post out of the "master burn-in" thread:
(I am a knew Pioneer PDP owner, so don't know how much of an issue this truely is, but I'd like to hear from others with more experience.
thanks...)

I just returned from a trip to my local Pioneer Elite dealer (Electronics Expo in Ledgewood, NJ) where I was hoping to get a look at Pioneer's new 50" 1080p plasma. They didn't have one but I did see something very disturbing, BOTH Pioneer Elites on display (PRO930HD and PRO1130HD) had severe IR! Both TV’s were at opposite ends of the store and both were playing different animated features when I was watching them. The first one I saw was the 930 which had the word "PLAYLIST" blazoned across the screen, I could also make out "Main Menu" and "Play Concert" but there was more, actually the entire screen was riddled with text. It was visible during any programming and you didn’t have to look for it (it found you). This was the worst case of IR on a plasma that I’ve personally seen. After moving on to look at the other TV’s I had forgotten about the incident but then I came across the 50” on the other side of the store and THERE IT WAS AGAIN! The text was different from the 930 but it was still some sort of menu. At this point I went around to all the other plasma’s in the store and NONE had any IR that I could see. This included two Panasonic 50U’s, two 30U’s (Onyx) , and a 25U which are all discontinued and have probably been there for over a year; along with Samsungs, Toshibas and brands I never heard of. If anyone thinks I’m Pioneer bashing go see for yourself; in fact I’m hoping someone is close enough to verify what I’m saying. I own a plasma and have never had ANY problems, but this would make me nervous about getting a Pioneer.

No IR here

Stupid question of the day:

I feel like a fool for posting this because im sure the answer is easy, but for the life of me i cannot figure it out. I have a pioneer elite 1130 hooked through a denon 4306 and 3910 Ive had it for a few weeks now and have absolutely loved it.. Out of the blue today i was playing a DVD and the "INPUT 1, 480P, Pure, Full" box appeared at the upper right and wont go away. It now stays there permanently for all DVDs. Oddly enough, when i push the setup button on the pioneer it goes away when the setup menu appears, but as soon as i leave the setup menu, the box returns to the upper right. Im at my wits end....any thoughts from the experts?

Ed

FYI - a recent post out of the "master burn-in" thread:
(I am a knew Pioneer PDP owner, so don't know how much of an issue this truely is, but I'd like to hear from others with more experience.
thanks...)

I think if you read through the other manufacture/model focused forum threads you will find posts complaining of the same IR/Burn problems on all of them. It is part of the technology....

I am a new owner as well and was paranoid about this but after 200 odd hours I have seen nothing. And after 1000 hours it seems you can do anything with them (well, within reason....!).

But thank goodness for this particluar forum and the extremely helpful advice given here for breaking in these wonderful tv's.

FYI - a recent post out of the "master burn-in" thread:
(I am a knew Pioneer PDP owner, so don't know how much of an issue this truely is, but I'd like to hear from others with more experience.
thanks...)

My guess is, at some dealers, that the tendency would be higher than normal to find some IR. Hard to know whether they did a proper break-in (I'll bet that they didn't.) and many stores turn on the dynamic mode to make the picture jump out. That's one reason I never considered a floor model panel when I was looking at plasmas, regardless of price. Most newer panels, properly set-up, should not experience IR.

Is it possible that the break-in DVD can "burn in" or casuse full screen Image Retention slightly and wash out the black level?

Interesting question. I'm debating whether to use the break in DVD, the service menu test patterns, or just careful viewing for the first 100-200 hours. Anyone else have any feedback on this issue?

Also, just bumping the following question that had been posted earlier:

What method is used to exit the service menu
1. if you want to save your changes
2. if you don't want to save anything and leave it the way you started.

Stupid question of the day:

I feel like a fool for posting this because im sure the answer is easy, but for the life of me i cannot figure it out. I have a pioneer elite 1130 hooked through a denon 4306 and 3910 Ive had it for a few weeks now and have absolutely loved it.. Out of the blue today i was playing a DVD and the "INPUT 1, 480P, Pure, Full" box appeared at the upper right and wont go away. It now stays there permanently for all DVDs. Oddly enough, when i push the setup button on the pioneer it goes away when the setup menu appears, but as soon as i leave the setup menu, the box returns to the upper right. Im at my wits end....any thoughts from the experts?

Ed

Unplug and plugin your connections between the Denon Receiver, DVD player and MR again.

Interesting question. I'm debating whether to use the break in DVD, the service menu test patterns, or just careful viewing for the first 100-200 hours. Anyone else have any feedback on this issue?

None should cause burnin. I prefer the CMB 08 test pattern in the SM.

Also, just bumping the following question that had been posted earlier:

What method is used to exit the service menu
1. if you want to save your changes
2. if you don't want to save anything and leave it the way you started.

1. Enter
2. Home Menu

None should cause burnin. I prefer the CMB 08 test pattern in the SM.



1. Enter
2. Home Menu

Thanks D-Nice for your patience with these simple questions. I think I'm finally ready (again assuming I get electricity this week!).

My guess is, at some dealers, that the tendency would be higher than normal to find some IR. Hard to know whether they did a proper break-in (I'll bet that they didn't.) and many stores turn on the dynamic mode to make the picture jump out. That's one reason I never considered a floor model panel when I was looking at plasmas, regardless of price. Most newer panels, properly set-up, should not experience IR.

When I was looking to buy this set I played with the remotes on a few sets to try and get a picture better than the one the dealer had set up .. and to see if I could live with the break-in settings posted here.

Many had contrast, brightness, colour set to 60.... and of course all the default settings like dynamic contrast on & power save to off ... Then they cycle the manufacturer's demo disc or even leave a DVD menu on screen for hours... No wonder they burn...

Why dont they demo these displays in more realistic settings instead of under fluorescent tubes? Its not like we are buying a toaster... well maybe :) These demo sets probably could do that as well!

When I was looking to buy this set I played with the remotes on a few sets to try and get a picture better than the one the dealer had set up .. and to see if I could live with the break-in settings posted here.

Many had contrast, brightness, colour set to 60.... and of course all the default settings like dynamic contrast on & power save to off ... Then they cycle the manufacturer's demo disc or even leave a DVD menu on screen for hours... No wonder they burn...

Why dont they demo these displays in more realistic settings instead of under fluorescent tubes? Its not like we are buying a toaster... well maybe :) These demo sets probably could do that as well!

thats the age old conundrum now isnt it :D

its always been that way, and odds are it will always stay that way

Many had contrast, brightness, colour set to 60.... and of course all the default settings like dynamic contrast on & power save to off ... Then they cycle the manufacturer's demo disc or even leave a DVD menu on screen for hours... No wonder they burn...

Speaking on behalf of one retailer, the plasmas in our showcase are properly calibrated whereas the others out on the floor most likely are not. Most of the time, manufacturers leave it in "torch mode" to capture your attention, and hopefully your wallet. We've been told to keep movies on A-B repeat so if you've ever seen a DVD menu, it is either:

1) Not properly repeating and the movie has ended.
2) A customer has gotten tired of the repeat and forced the player to play the entire movie.
3) A sales pro has not gotten around to setting up the A-B repeat on that TV yet.

If you look hard enough, you will see there are retailers who care about the presentation of the product. As a matter of fact, every store display will possibly be purchased by a customer in the future so it is in our best interest to keep IR to a minimum.

I am not asking for people to quote prices -

I am looking to buy an 1130HD from a smaller electronics retialer in my hometown. I am wondering what the consensus is regarding discounting of this outgoing model. MSRP is $5500 on Pioneer's website. MSRP for the new Pioneer branded 50 inch model (currently only available at BB as the 5071 I believe) is in the $4500 range.

Do you think that negotiating the price of the 1130HD based on the MSRP of the new Pioneer branded model (that has increased resolution but no MR) is a fair tactic?

The Pio model is very tempting because its cheaper. Should I be able to get close to the price of the Pio on the 1130HD?

Again, not asking for people to quote prices. Yes or No, with qualifications will suffice. Thanks!

I am not asking for people to quote prices -

I am looking to buy an 1130HD from a smaller electronics retialer in my hometown. I am wondering what the consensus is regarding discounting of this outgoing model. MSRP is $5500 on Pioneer's website. MSRP for the new Pioneer branded 50 inch model (currently only available at BB as the 5071 I believe) is in the $4500 range.

Do you think that negotiating the price of the 1130HD based on the MSRP of the new Pioneer branded model (that has increased resolution but no MR) is a fair tactic?

The Pio model is very tempting because its cheaper. Should I be able to get close to the price of the Pio on the 1130HD?

Again, not asking for people to quote prices. Yes or No, with qualifications will suffice. Thanks!


It likely depends on your area and the dealer's interest in moving them. I recently purchased a new 1130 in Bellevue, WA and the dealer was quite willing to discount significantly. I came away quite happy with the final deal. Shop around.

I am not asking for people to quote prices -

I am looking to buy an 1130HD from a smaller electronics retialer in my hometown. I am wondering what the consensus is regarding discounting of this outgoing model. MSRP is $5500 on Pioneer's website. MSRP for the new Pioneer branded 50 inch model (currently only available at BB as the 5071 I believe) is in the $4500 range.

Do you think that negotiating the price of the 1130HD based on the MSRP of the new Pioneer branded model (that has increased resolution but no MR) is a fair tactic?

The Pio model is very tempting because its cheaper. Should I be able to get close to the price of the Pio on the 1130HD?

Again, not asking for people to quote prices. Yes or No, with qualifications will suffice. Thanks!

Absolutely - shopping around is the key. If you have a BB with Magnolia in it, you may be able to take advantage of one of their coupons and Reward program; worth signing up to get the points on a large purchase like that.

Do you think that negotiating the price of the 1130HD based on the MSRP of the new Pioneer branded model (that has increased resolution but no MR) is a fair tactic?

The Pio model is very tempting because its cheaper. Should I be able to get close to the price of the Pio on the 1130HD?

You can certainly try to negotiate for the 1130HD based on the 5071 MSRP but certain dealers stand by the "do not ruin the Elite reputation" philosophy. Some are more open than others. As mentioned by NemoZorro, Magnolia is a good place to start as the Rewards program can get you tons of money back on a big purchase.

Here's my suggestion:

If the media box does not detract in your decision (you are ok with an extra component in your rack/stand), then get a good price on the 1130 as it is still superior to the 5071. If you don't watch much SD anymore, go with the 5071 as you will not be taking advantage of the processing power of the Elite. Choose wisely and factor in the viewing habits of spouse/family. Hope this helps.

No Magnolias in my city yet (or nearby). The 1130 is sold at the small retailer, a specialty installation company, and Tweeter. So, shopping around only gets me so far. The guy is already discounting the 1130 - I just don't want to pay more than the going rate (which we can't discuss here), which is why I asked if the 5071 has been good leverage against the 1130 for price haggling.

Thanks for the replies as well as the comparison relating to SD material.

Others can still feel free to offer their advice if it's different than that already offered.

Same here, I got a pretty good deal on my 1130 and they had it in stock so I was able to take it home that day.

Good luck with your purchase Jedi. If you do end up going with the 1130 you wont be disappointed!It likely depends on your area and the dealer's interest in moving them. I recently purchased a new 1130 in Bellevue, WA and the dealer was quite willing to discount significantly. I came away quite happy with the final deal. Shop around.

a) Can anyone tell me hofar the Pioneer stand for the 4360/5060 sticks out from the plasma display? I'm custom building a corner unit for "my baby" and need to know if I have to build a deeper unit to accomodate the stand. Right now it's hanging on a 2"X6" above where I'm building the unit.

b) I'm having a hell of a time trying to keep the high-gloss black frame clean!! Any suggestions? (spit and polish don't work)

Thanks guys
rrcool

Hi i have the 5060hd ,want to use hdmi to 3910 denon dvd player,is it worth spending money for a expencive hdmi cable or just geting a cheap hdmi.

a) Can anyone tell me hofar the Pioneer stand for the 4360/5060 sticks out from the plasma display? I'm custom building a corner unit for "my baby" and need to know if I have to build a deeper unit to accomodate the stand. Right now it's hanging on a 2"X6" above where I'm building the unit.


On my 5060, the stand extends exactly 6" horizontally from the front edge of the plasma panel.
DonP

For any of you who have used both the OPPO 971 and the newer 970 with an 1130HD, have you found that running native 480i out from the 970 via HDMI into the Elite provides a better picture (using Pio's ADV 3:3 setting) than if you use the 971's faroudja chipset to do the scaling?

To be clear the comparison is 480i HDMI out from the 970 versus any of the output options from the 971 into a Pio Elite 1130HD. Is there a consensus as to which is better? Thanks!

Hi i have the 5060hd ,want to use hdmi to 3910 denon dvd player,is it worth spending money for a expencive hdmi cable or just geting a cheap hdmi.

Go to Monoprice, one of the forum sponsors. Great cables, great prices, great service!

I went with an expensive cable.
Hi i have the 5060hd ,want to use hdmi to 3910 denon dvd player,is it worth spending money for a expencive hdmi cable or just geting a cheap hdmi.

I have a 4360, with a Nintendo Gamecube connected to Input 2 with RCA cables. However, I've tried every screen mode and there are vertical black bars about 1 inch thick on both sides of the screen, even using Zoom or Wide.

Does anyone know what I can do about this?

I have a 4360, with a Nintendo Gamecube connected to Input 2 with RCA cables. However, I've tried every screen mode and there are vertical black bars about 1 inch thick on both sides of the screen, even using Zoom or Wide.

Does anyone know what I can do about this?

Same thing will happen with a PS2 using composite. I never found a workaround. You could get an external scaler, but that is too much money to spend if you are just going to use it for a game system.

Its been a while since my brother had his PS2 over, but I remember things being better with the component pack. (i.e. not using composite)

Current 5060 users,

Just got my 5060 today and realized that the black glossy bezel around the glass is not "tightly stick" to side of the glass panel, only the middle of the bezel (on each side of the TV) are "tightly fit" to the glass.

I need your experience to tell me whether this is normal - I have 24hrs to assess the TV before returning.

Thanks a lot.
qa4260

Hi gang-

I've read through as many of these posts as I can, but I just wanted to be sure. I've got a Pio Elite 1130 coming this weekend. I plan to use the break-in settings posted here, but I thought I should ask you about the potential risk of burn in from the local PBS station.

We probably watch about one hour per day of On Demand children's programming from our lical PBS station. It has a static image in the lower right corner that is blue and green (the color does not appear to change, and it is not transparent). Will this sort of viewing behavior be likely to lead to burn in?

It seems like the obvious answer is yes, but i keep seeing people post that burn-in is an overstated issue with current plasmas so I'm a bit confused. If it is a substantial risk, do you have recommendations for how to deal with it? The little guy is addicted to Barney and the Teletubbies.

Thanks, in advance, for your help.

Hi gang-

I've read through as many of these posts as I can, but I just wanted to be sure. I've got a Pio Elite 1130 coming this weekend. I plan to use the break-in settings posted here, but I thought I should ask you about the potential risk of burn in from the local PBS station.

We probably watch about one hour per day of On Demand children's programming from our lical PBS station. It has a static image in the lower right corner that is blue and green (the color does not appear to change, and it is not transparent). Will this sort of viewing behavior be likely to lead to burn in?

It seems like the obvious answer is yes, but i keep seeing people post that burn-in is an overstated issue with current plasmas so I'm a bit confused. If it is a substantial risk, do you have recommendations for how to deal with it? The little guy is addicted to Barney and the Teletubbies.

Thanks, in advance, for your help.

My advice would be to use a break in DVD and let it run continuously for 100 hours or so before regular watching. That way you can check for problems, dead pixels, etc. early on and your set gets broken in quickly. Search for links earlier in this thread on where to download and burn this disc. There is also a test pattern in the service menu, but you don't want to do that unless you are really careful; big problems can happen in the SM.

During break in, vary your viewing as much as possible, and try to have all sources fill the screen by zooming if necessary. Keep the contrast and power save settings low like recommended, and you should be fine. If you get some image retention, you can "wash" it away with normal viewing or the break in DVD. Remember that image retention is not permanent, and if treated, will not become the permanent burn in that none of us want.

Once properly broken in, image retention and burn in should not be an issue.

Current 5060 users,

Just got my 5060 today and realized that the black glossy bezel around the glass is not "tightly stick" to side of the glass panel, only the middle of the bezel (on each side of the TV) are "tightly fit" to the glass.

I need your experience to tell me whether this is normal - I have 24hrs to assess the TV before returning.

Thanks a lot.
qa4260

Sorry, I haven't seen this before. I'd probably return for an exchange. You don't want dust or dirt getting down into the inside.

Hi gang-

I've read through as many of these posts as I can, but I just wanted to be sure. I've got a Pio Elite 1130 coming this weekend. I plan to use the break-in settings posted here, but I thought I should ask you about the potential risk of burn in from the local PBS station.

We probably watch about one hour per day of On Demand children's programming from our lical PBS station. It has a static image in the lower right corner that is blue and green (the color does not appear to change, and it is not transparent). Will this sort of viewing behavior be likely to lead to burn in?

It seems like the obvious answer is yes, but i keep seeing people post that burn-in is an overstated issue with current plasmas so I'm a bit confused. If it is a substantial risk, do you have recommendations for how to deal with it? The little guy is addicted to Barney and the Teletubbies.

Thanks, in advance, for your help.

For 1hr per day, that is no issue at all. Use the proper settings (DNice's break-in settings are good) and you will have no issues at all.

In the first few days you may have minor image retention of the logo, but it will go away completely by watching another station without a logo for an hour or two.

Even on a brand new plasma, it will still take multiple hours of the same logo, with bad settings as well, to produce anything permanent. The first week I had my 1130, I watched 3hrs straight of NBC that thursday night. I was able to see the nbc logo if I walked up to the screen and looked closely, but it went away in a couple hours of watching other stations.

Now, I've had my plasma for 9 months or so (?? has it really been that long?) and I can watch the same station all day with increased bightness, contrast, and have no image retention at all .

Having the correct settings is 90% of the work in avoiding burn-in.

I've had my 1130 for a couple of weeks now and I havent seen any IR yet :crossesfingers: :)

I think I am closing in on the 150 hour mark :cool:
For 1hr per day, that is no issue at all. Use the proper settings (DNice's break-in settings are good) and you will have no issues at all.

In the first few days you may have minor image retention of the logo, but it will go away completely by watching another station without a logo for an hour or two.

Even on a brand new plasma, it will still take multiple hours of the same logo, with bad settings as well, to produce anything permanent. The first week I had my 1130, I watched 3hrs straight of NBC that thursday night. I was able to see the nbc logo if I walked up to the screen and looked closely, but it went away in a couple hours of watching other stations.

Now, I've had my plasma for 9 months or so (?? has it really been that long?) and I can watch the same station all day with increased bightness, contrast, and have no image retention at all .

Having the correct settings is 90% of the work in avoiding burn-in.

Does anyone have any TV stand recommendations for the 1130?

I am hoping to find an all black stand, but most stands seem to small to fit all my components (cable box, audio receiver, media reciever, dvd player, center speaker).

Any links, pics or brand/model #'s of stands that people use for their 1130's would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

How much are you willing to spend? What is your "style" preference?

I was looking to spend ~$1k. I was hoping to find something all black, to match the elite, but am open to suggestions.

I went to a local furniture store in my town and they had a beautiful teak media stand that was imported from Bali that I really liked. The owner was a cool guy and hand picks the pieces and brings them back to the states, but I was really looking for something more classic/modern (but nothing too fancy). How much are you willing to spend? What is your "style" preference?

I was looking to spend ~$1k. I was hoping to find something all black, to match the elite, but am open to suggestions.

I went to a local furniture store in my town and they had a beautiful teak media stand that was imported from Bali that I really liked. The owner was a cool guy and hand picks the pieces and brings them back to the states, but I was really looking for something more classic/modern (but nothing too fancy).

How about this (http://www.ladiff.com/liv_ent_louis.htm)

That is very nice but probably wouldnt work with my furniture. I like this (http://www.ladiff.com/liv_ent_cielo.htm) but I would really like to find something black. Unfortunately it seems a lot of the stands I like are espresso and not black. How about this (http://www.ladiff.com/liv_ent_louis.htm)

Just about to break the 1000 hour break-in period and must say that the picture on the Pioneer is still the best I've seen on a tv of this size. Watched Star Wars in high def over the weekend and was just blown away. It was nice to see that HBO did'nt crop the picture like they normally do.

Anyway, I've uploaded pics so that people can get an idea what games and movies look like on it. It actually looks much better in person. The pictures are just me with an old 2.1mp Canon Powershot A20 camera standing in front of the tv without the lights on and with the flash off.

My home theater (http://members.cox.net/skeletor64/setup.htm)
Hey rudy, awesome shots. Is that batman beyond in one of the screen shots? If so, when you watch it does it fill the whole screen or have the black bars at the top and bottom. Also have you had the tv calibrated in anyway? If not what are your current settings? Beautiful pics! I have that same DVD player and curious as if you did anything special to tweak the dvd player to get that pop like you have in your shots! Thanks

Well to answer the question I posed to this forum several days ago, a copy of my post to DVD Hardware:

Well, I finally received and hooked up the 970. For some reason, after posting (and waiting for a response) to this and the plasma forum, I couldn't get an answer as to how the 970 performed into the 6th generation Pios. So I pulled the trigger myself and I am pleased to report that running the 970 at 480i HDMI into my Elite 1130, produces the finest dvd picture that I have ever seen on this display (I have tried many of the usual suspects, including the Sony 75/85, Pio 52, Toshiba 4990, a Samsung, along with my venerable old Pio RP91)

The 970 trumps them all - less noise, more detail, greater depth - so far have viewed Toy Story, LOTR, Fifth Element (Superbit), Spiderman, and The Hulk. All looked better than I had ever seen them.

Additionally, although my sound system is not high end, the sound of the Oppo equaled the sound of the Sony (which was a clear improvement over my RP91).

Also, (purists don't read this!) I found the zoom on the Oppo to at least be useable.

The Oppo 970 appears to play all manner of discs, (I have tried R+, R-, RW+ and RW-), and the jpeg picture navigator is also quite useable (along with the Sony, one of the few devices which allows for computer altered jpegs to be played).

Don't like the tray - not the fact that its "flimsy", which I really don't think it is, but the fact that no indentation exists to easily remove the disc - find I have to reach under and pop it up from the bottom.

Both the deck and the remote appear well made and durable.

For me, I finally found "a keeper!" :D

LIY

This is music to my ears, my 970 arrives in a few hours!

since i don't have any true HD content yet, i downloaded a 720p version of the 'cars' trailer. and played it via my laptop running 1280x768 connected to the vga input on my 5060's media receiver.

OMG.

we watched 'oceans 11' earlier, and i was thinking, this looks great, incredibly bright, colors are very saturated but warm and natural, etc etc.

now that i've seen The Real Deal, i understand what the fuss is about. it looks really incredible. just amazing. i can't wait for hd-dvd or blu-ray!!!!
I am interested in trying this out, can this be done via a MAC G4? Im curious to see the difference in a 720p video running through a pc.

I was looking to spend ~$1k. I was hoping to find something all black, to match the elite, but am open to suggestions.

I went to a local furniture store in my town and they had a beautiful teak media stand that was imported from Bali that I really liked. The owner was a cool guy and hand picks the pieces and brings them back to the states, but I was really looking for something more classic/modern (but nothing too fancy).
I just set up an all-black Salamander Triple 20 with my 4360 this week. It's not as nice a piece as some of the stuff you'll find in the higher end furniture shops, but it's hard to beat for its flexibility and friendliness to AV equipment. My wife also likes the fact that the equipment is hidden behind closed doors. :) I've got my amp and DVD on one side, power conditioner, STB, and media receiver on the other side, pre/pro on the bottom center shelf, and center channel speaker on the top center shelf. I should also have space for a second amp to drive a set of speakers in my living room. The mains sit atop of the stand next to the display. I'll post pics this weekend if you're interested. The all-black goes well with the Pioneer displays, not to mention the fact that my mains also have a high gloss piano black finish (Energy C-2s). BTW, the Magnolia stand-alone stores have the black/black racks discounted as they're no longer planning to stock that particular color combo.

That is very nice but probably wouldnt work with my furniture. I like this (http://www.ladiff.com/liv_ent_cielo.htm) but I would really like to find something black. Unfortunately it seems a lot of the stands I like are espresso and not black.


BDI also makes some very good "contemporary" stands.....and they come in black. However, most are above the 1K mark. Racksandstands.com has a selection.

Has anyone had their 5060 professionally calibrated.

For the life of me I still cannot get into the service menu. I have tried atleast 200-300 times. I guess mine doesn't work.

Thanks for the info. I would definitely like to see pics :)

I was at a Magnolia stand-alone store and saw a couple stands I liked but they were a bit pricey. Maybe I will go back and see if they are on sale now. Appreciate the tip ;)
I just set up an all-black Salamander Triple 20 with my 4360 this week. It's not as nice a piece as some of the stuff you'll find in the higher end furniture shops, but it's hard to beat for its flexibility and friendliness to AV equipment. My wife also likes the fact that the equipment is hidden behind closed doors. :) I've got my amp and DVD on one side, power conditioner, STB, and media receiver on the other side, pre/pro on the bottom center shelf, and center channel speaker on the top center shelf. I should also have space for a second amp to drive a set of speakers in my living room. The mains sit atop of the stand next to the display. I'll post pics this weekend if you're interested. The all-black goes well with the Pioneer displays, not to mention the fact that my mains also have a high gloss piano black finish (Energy C-2s). BTW, the Magnolia stand-alone stores have the black/black racks discounted as they're no longer planning to stock that particular color combo.

Thanks for the help.

If I 'have' to spend more then 1k thats okay, but that was my initial idea of how much I would want to spend.

I will check out racksandstands as well :)
BDI also makes some very good "contemporary" stands.....and they come in black. However, most are above the 1K mark. Racksandstands.com has a selection.

Thanks for the info. I would definitely like to see pics :)

I was at a Magnolia stand-alone store and saw a couple stands I liked but they were a bit pricey. Maybe I will go back and see if they are on sale now. Appreciate the tip ;)
Salamander Synergy is great furniture - I have two racks, both cherry/aluminum. Click here (http://www.salamanderdesigns.com/syn/index.jsp) to go to their website for their almost endless configurations...

I was just checking their site last night. ;)

Thanks for the recommendation.
Salamander Synergy is great furniture - I have two racks, both cherry/aluminum. Click here (http://www.salamanderdesigns.com/syn/index.jsp) to go to their website for their almost endless configurations...

Hi

Am having problems receiving HDTV from cable. Everything was working up until yesterday, now I just see a blank screen on all HD channels. Anyone had the same problem?

I tried re-scanning the channels, but that did not work. I noticed on page 38 of the manual there was this sentence "Executing more than one scan for cables will result in broadcast receptions failures" Does anyone know what this means?

Also I am curious about the QAM tuner. How do you manually tune channels? For example I tune to 15.1 for KPBS but according to the Time Warner listings, KPBS is on channel 711. Any Ideas?

Thanks

Does anyone have any TV stand recommendations for the 1130?

I am hoping to find an all black stand, but most stands seem to small to fit all my components (cable box, audio receiver, media reciever, dvd player, center speaker).

Any links, pics or brand/model #'s of stands that people use for their 1130's would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Try www.uniquestylesolutions.com ... For my 1130 I got the all black cabinet 66" wide with glass doors for the side areas. My center speaker fit perfectly with terrific space for the MR, cable box, A/V receiver, CD player, DVD player, and storage. Still room for a VCR if I want it. For an "assemble-yourself" item, I was very impressed with the design and quality for the price. Delivery was free and on time. I am not using the casters.

Hope this helps,
SrPicman

Has anyone had their 5060 professionally calibrated.

For the life of me I still cannot get into the service menu. I have tried atleast 200-300 times. I guess mine doesn't work.
Getting mine calibrated in a week or two. I will let you know the results.

Those of you with the 5060 and the oppo 970, would you mind posting your configurations? For me, I plugged in the 970, threw in spiderman 1 and the picture doesn't look as good as it did on my old sony ns75h. Maybe some tweaking is needed? Thank you in advance.

Circuit City has plasma stand w/ black glass shelves that looks very sleek at a decent $. Website pic doesn't do justice. I got it for my center spkr & AV equip but returned it because I couldn't hide all the wires.

Z-Line Designs 55" Maxim Collection TV Stand

Cheers,
TP

That is very nice but probably wouldnt work with my furniture. I like this (http://www.ladiff.com/liv_ent_cielo.htm) but I would really like to find something black. Unfortunately it seems a lot of the stands I like are espresso and not black.

Those of you with the 5060 and the oppo 970, would you mind posting your configurations? For me, I plugged in the 970, threw in spiderman 1 and the picture doesn't look as good as it did on my old sony ns75h. Maybe some tweaking is needed? Thank you in advance.

I had the same lack of improvement when I tried a BKK988 (=OPPO 970) into my 436. I could not tell the difference in via HDMI at any resolution versus my old Sony progressive player via component.

Maybe its my eyes or maybe its just that the scaler in the display is better or the same as the DVD player... but perhaps I should try a sony 76 (as it is sold here in Hong Kong) instead then!

Those of you with the 5060 and the oppo 970, would you mind posting your configurations? For me, I plugged in the 970, threw in spiderman 1 and the picture doesn't look as good as it did on my old sony ns75h. Maybe some tweaking is needed? Thank you in advance.

configuration?

running hdmi from 970 to 5060, 480i. didn't fiddle with any settings on the player at all, and the tv is still in the break-in settings although i bump the contrast and color a bit sometimes.

For the life of me I still cannot get into the service menu. I have tried atleast 200-300 times. I guess mine doesn't work.

is yours a newer unit? mine absolutely doesn't do it either. i have followed the directions very carefuly, with many variations in the length of time i wait, and al it ever does is just turn on. i had a few friends over asked each to try it a couple times from the instructions, without my input, and it didn't work for anyone else either.

either we're all idiots or pioneer changed something.

I just pulled the trigger on a new 4360 from an authorized internet dealer at a pretty amazing price. Now I need a wall mount because I absolutely fell in love with a Whalen stand they had a Best Buy (I actually can't believe I would buy from them, but they seem to be the only one who stocks it).

It is a beautiful black cabinet with a swivel arm that will swing the black beast 75 degrees in either direction and I need a wall mount bracket to attach it to the swing arm that won't bust my budget and won't get me to sleep with my new TV rather than my wife.

Any suggestions?

B

I've purchased an 1130 and am trying to figure out the best dvd player to go with it. I'm strongly considering the OPPO 970 with the specific intention of connecting it via HDMI and running it at 480i, in order to allow the Pioneer's 3:3 processing.

OTOH, I would really like to use a Pioneer DVD player that offers SR+ connectivity. I can't seem to find one that offers 480i HDMI out AND SR+. My question is this, if I'm really only going to use the DVD player as a transport (that's the term as I understand it, meaning I want to use the TV's scaling and processing instead), is it necessary to make an HDMI connection, or would component connections at 480i be sufficient? Is the HDMI preferable because it's digital and therefore only one DAC occur

OTOH, I would really like to use a Pioneer DVD player that offers SR+ connectivity. I can't seem to find one that offers 480i HDMI out AND SR+.

Don't the Pioneer Elite DV59 and DV79 have SR and 480i through HDMI? I'm not sure if there is a difference b/w SR and SR+ but they should be backwards compatible.

HDMI is better than component because you want to keep it in the digital domain. SDI is even better but a far costlier option.

i have the 1130HD and i have the directv high def tivo and my HTPC and xbox 360 hooked up to it. the tivo is connected via a hdmi cable. the HTPC is connected via an DVI-HDMI, and the xbox is connected via component.

every looks pretty good but i have noticed some "shadowing" if i can call it that.

a good example is if there is a white screen with darker colored text , you will see a shadow extending from the left and right sides of the text all the way across the screen. it is kind of subtle to most but it has become very visible to me.

another good example is when playing xbox, i will have a screen where there are options to select in the center of the screen. and when you select an option it changes color. when each time i move the next selection down, i see the shadow move down too.

I'm not sure how to describe this any better - hopefully you know what i am talking about.

i am wondering if this is a problem with the cables (got them from monoprice.com for the htpc and tivo) and the xbox cable is the one it came with.

if not the cables then what can it be?

i have the 1130HD and i have the directv high def tivo and my HTPC and xbox 360 hooked up to it. the tivo is connected via a hdmi cable. the HTPC is connected via an DVI-HDMI, and the xbox is connected via component.

every looks pretty good but i have noticed some "shadowing" if i can call it that.

a good example is if there is a white screen with darker colored text , you will see a shadow extending from the left and right sides of the text all the way across the screen. it is kind of subtle to most but it has become very visible to me.

another good example is when playing xbox, i will have a screen where there are options to select in the center of the screen. and when you select an option it changes color. when each time i move the next selection down, i see the shadow move down too.

I'm not sure how to describe this any better - hopefully you know what i am talking about.

i am wondering if this is a problem with the cables (got them from monoprice.com for the htpc and tivo) and the xbox cable is the one it came with.

if not the cables then what can it be?

Is the shadow stationary, or does it move? If so, does it move horizontally? Vertically?

Mark

it moves with the content of the image. so like i said if i am on a game and scrolling through menus, when i scroll and the highlighted option moves, the shadow moves. but it does nto move by itself.

Can't go wrong w/ OPPO, especially w/ the value, their outstanding customer service & 30-day return policy. FWIW, I have 59Avi & Oppo731 and I can hardly tell the diff on my 1130.

Cheers,
TP

I've purchased an 1130 and am trying to figure out the best dvd player to go with it. I'm strongly considering the OPPO 970 with the specific intention of connecting it via HDMI and running it at 480i, in order to allow the Pioneer's 3:3 processing.

OTOH, I would really like to use a Pioneer DVD player that offers SR+ connectivity. I can't seem to find one that offers 480i HDMI out AND SR+. My question is this, if I'm really only going to use the DVD player as a transport (that's the term as I understand it, meaning I want to use the TV's scaling and processing instead), is it necessary to make an HDMI connection, or would component connections at 480i be sufficient? Is the HDMI preferable because it's digital and therefore only one DAC occur

How many pioneer pdp owners have switched their upconverting dvd players for the Toshiba HD DVD player. It looks just fantastic and it is the best upconverting dvd player to date. Compare it to any dvd player for its upconverting and well it is the absolute best when it comes to HD.

How many pioneer pdp owners have switched their upconverting dvd players for the Toshiba HD DVD player. It looks just fantastic and it is the best upconverting dvd player to date. Compare it to any dvd player for its upconverting and well it is the absolute best when it comes to HD.

do you by chance sell hd dvd players? :rolleyes:

How many pioneer pdp owners have switched their upconverting dvd players for the Toshiba HD DVD player. It looks just fantastic and it is the best upconverting dvd player to date. Compare it to any dvd player for its upconverting and well it is the absolute best when it comes to HD.

Not me, it does not play my backup disks which my
family uses. Tried some at Best Buy, no go.

jhl

Here are some pics of my 4360 with a Salamander Triple 20 stand. I also threw in a few image captures. What's the best way to take screen shots BTW? I had a hard time getting accurate shots...

http://home.comcast.net/~majl/wsb/P1050005.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~majl/wsb/DSCF0403.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~majl/wsb/DSCF0406.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~majl/wsb/DSCF0409.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~majl/wsb/DSCF0412.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~majl/wsb/P1050048.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~majl/wsb/DSCF0416.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~majl/wsb/DSCF0417.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~majl/wsb/P1050051.jpg

I don't sell them just wanted to share my JOY!!!!

Nice stand!

I was considering slamander. These pics show that its definitely a nice stand and will accomodate all my components. thanks for sharing!
Here are some pics of my 4360 with a Salamander Triple 20 stand. I also threw in a few image captures. What's the best way to take screen shots BTW? I had a hard time getting accurate shots...

[IMG]http://home.comcast.net/~majl/wsb/P1050005.jpg[IMG]

[IMG]http://home.comcast.net/~majl/wsb/DSCF0403.jpg[IMG]

[IMG]http://home.comcast.net/~majl/wsb/DSCF0406.jpg[IMG]

[IMG]http://home.comcast.net/~majl/wsb/DSCF0409.jpg[IMG]

[IMG]http://home.comcast.net/~majl/wsb/DSCF0412.jpg[IMG]

[IMG]http://home.comcast.net/~majl/wsb/P1050048.jpg[IMG]

[IMG]http://home.comcast.net/~majl/wsb/DSCF0416.jpg[IMG]

[IMG]http://home.comcast.net/~majl/wsb/DSCF0417.jpg[IMG]

[IMG]http://home.comcast.net/~majl/wsb/P1050051.jpg[IMG]

Wow, they have motorized TV stands! :cool:
Try www.uniquestylesolutions.com ... For my 1130 I got the all black cabinet 66" wide with glass doors for the side areas. My center speaker fit perfectly with terrific space for the MR, cable box, A/V receiver, CD player, DVD player, and storage. Still room for a VCR if I want it. For an "assemble-yourself" item, I was very impressed with the design and quality for the price. Delivery was free and on time. I am not using the casters.

Hope this helps,
SrPicman

Wow, they have motorized TV stands! :cool:

What stands? All I saw were pictures of a gorgeous brunette standing by herself...

:D

How many pioneer pdp owners have switched their upconverting dvd players for the Toshiba HD DVD player. It looks just fantastic and it is the best upconverting dvd player to date. Compare it to any dvd player for its upconverting and well it is the absolute best when it comes to HD.

sounds a little biased to me. The Toshiba HD DVD player is NOT a good upsampling player. It suffers from the Chroma bug and many other severe problems. It recently FAILED the Secrets of Home theatre DVD shootout. To be fair, the Samsung Blu-Ray plyer is also crap.

There are quite a few regular upsampling DVD players that will outperform the Toshiba in the upsampling category. You said to compare it to ANY player? Surely you are kidding? There are upsampling DVD players that cost multiple thousands of dollars with the very BEST upsampling technology built in that this $500 player simply cannot compare to. OF course, there are players in the several hundred dollar range that will also out pace the Toshiba with ease.

Wait for the Panasonic or the Pioneer Elite Blu Ray players or a HD DVD player from someone other than Toshiba.

I hear you there. I have a feeling she costs more though :D
What stands? All I saw were pictures of a gorgeous brunette standing by herself...

:D

Sorry you are wrong, so wrong my friend. GREATEST DVD PLAYER EVER

i have the 1130HD and i have the directv high def tivo and my HTPC and xbox 360 hooked up to it. the tivo is connected via a hdmi cable. the HTPC is connected via an DVI-HDMI, and the xbox is connected via component.

every looks pretty good but i have noticed some "shadowing" if i can call it that.

a good example is if there is a white screen with darker colored text , you will see a shadow extending from the left and right sides of the text all the way across the screen. it is kind of subtle to most but it has become very visible to me.

another good example is when playing xbox, i will have a screen where there are options to select in the center of the screen. and when you select an option it changes color. when each time i move the next selection down, i see the shadow move down too.

I'm not sure how to describe this any better - hopefully you know what i am talking about.

i am wondering if this is a problem with the cables (got them from monoprice.com for the htpc and tivo) and the xbox cable is the one it came with.

if not the cables then what can it be?


ideas anyone??

Sorry you are wrong, so wrong my friend. GREATEST DVD PLAYER EVER

I'm glad you are enjoying it and that it works well for you, but you should know better than to make statements like that on the AVS forum.

I'm glad you are enjoying it and that it works well for you, but you should know better than to make statements like that on the AVS forum.
indeed.

having had personal experience with the HD-A1, I had it for a total of.....oh......3 days :rolleyes:

the HD-DVD's obviously looked superb (expected), but regular DVD's could not come close to my 3910, and given the fact that every time I plopped the movie in, or wanted to access the menu, I had to go and take a nap and come back, I figured I will skip the "early adopter" syndrome on this one, and just wait a year.

ideas anyone??

You can minimize it by adjusting contrast and brightness. (Usually lowering contrast is the biggest factor)

thank you i will give that a try. as i recall i had it adjusted to d-nice's settings so i wonder if anyone else hass had this problem using his settings.

either way i will try to monkey with the contrast tonight and see how that works.

thank you i will give that a try. as i recall i had it adjusted to d-nice's settings so i wonder if anyone else hass had this problem using his settings.

either way i will try to monkey with the contrast tonight and see how that works.

Dnice's settings are tailored to particular cable boxes... change the source (pc, 360, dvd, etc) and you will have to adjust the settings for best quality. There is always some variance.

any of you guys had your 1130 ISF calibrated yet, and if so, would you mind posting who it was? also, did they use the C3 software and access the ISF day/night modes on the 1130, or bypassed it and went to the service menu directly?

I got imagesciencefoundation themselves telling me both methods are fine, but although the C3 can yield good results, the service menu still provides more options and can be fine tuned better...

:confused:

any of you guys had your 1130 ISF calibrated yet, and if so, would you mind posting who it was? also, did they use the C3 software and access the ISF day/night modes on the 1130, or bypassed it and went to the service menu directly?

I got imagesciencefoundation themselves telling me both methods are fine, but although the C3 can yield good results, the service menu still provides more options and can be fine tuned better...

:confused:

I had my 1130 ISF calibrated a few months ago. The results were spectacular. (you will find pics of my calibration about 35 pages back.) Now, here's the sad part: C3 is pretty much worthless. The C3 controls give you less control over the picture parameters than the regular user menus. My ISF tech (Steve Martin www.smartcalibration.com) was able to get one of the most accurate pictures he's ever calibrated by simply using the user menus, but couldn't even get close in the C3 modes. Apparently, C3 is fundamentally flawed. He showed me some posts from the ISF forums where ISF techs all over the country have been running into the same problems on a wide range of C3 capable TVs. So, don't waste your time with C3, but the ISF certification is definitely worth it. The improvements in black level alone made it worth every penny.

I had my 1130 ISF calibrated a few months ago. The results were spectacular. (you will find pics of my calibration about 35 pages back.) Now, here's the sad part: C3 is pretty much worthless. The C3 controls give you less control over the picture parameters than the regular user menus. My ISF tech (Steve Martin www.smartcalibration.com) was able to get one of the most accurate pictures he's ever calibrated by simply using the user menus, but couldn't even get close in the C3 modes. Apparently, C3 is fundamentally flawed. He showed me some posts from the ISF forums where ISF techs all over the country have been running into the same problems on a wide range of C3 capable TVs. So, don't waste your time with C3, but the ISF certification is definitely worth it. The improvements in black level alone made it worth every penny.

still have a link to those forums? I'd like to read up on that.

I had my 1130 ISF calibrated a few months ago. The results were spectacular. (you will find pics of my calibration about 35 pages back.) Now, here's the sad part: C3 is pretty much worthless. The C3 controls give you less control over the picture parameters than the regular user menus. My ISF tech (Steve Martin www.smartcalibration.com) was able to get one of the most accurate pictures he's ever calibrated by simply using the user menus, but couldn't even get close in the C3 modes. Apparently, C3 is fundamentally flawed. He showed me some posts from the ISF forums where ISF techs all over the country have been running into the same problems on a wide range of C3 capable TVs. So, don't waste your time with C3, but the ISF certification is definitely worth it. The improvements in black level alone made it worth every penny.
THANK YOU! :)

exactly what I was looking for......I have one of the head honchos who actually works at ISF here in Boca, and is known around the country, and he will do it for me, but said he wouldn't do it through the ISF menus using C3, but just through user and service menus.

:D

Ask him if he knows of a good ISF tech in the bay area for me :x: :D

I am just about to hit the 200 hour mark :bowdown:

wait, OT smilies probably dont work on here huh? :run: :pTHANK YOU! :)

exactly what I was looking for......I have one of the head honchos who actually works at ISF here in Boca, and is known around the country, and he will do it for me, but said he wouldn't do it through the ISF menus using C3, but just through user and service menus.

:D

Ask him if he knows of a good ISF tech in the bay area for me :x: :D

I am just about to hit the 200 hour mark :bowdown:

wait, OT smilies probably dont work on here huh? :run: :p
:noes:.................:mamoru:

yeah, I know a couple of really good ones...I'll send you the info :h5:

IBnobodyGetsThisButUs

Thanks! :bigthumb: :h5:

:D
:noes:.................:mamoru:

yeah, I know a couple of really good ones...I'll send you the info :h5:

IBnobodyGetsThisButUs

ssabripo

[toshiba] HD-A1, I had it for a total of.....oh......3 days the HD-DVD's obviously looked superb (expected), but regular DVD's could not come close to my 3910, and given the fact that every time I plopped the movie in, or wanted to access the menu, I had to go and take a nap and come back,
Hmm. I have the Denon 3910 DVD Player and it's great when it actually gets around to playing movies, but clicking around menus I consider it to be slow and so I use a different DVD player when showing people individual scenes in movies because it's much faster. I'm surprised that there's something apparently much slower out there.

ssabripo


Hmm. I have the Denon 3910 DVD Player and it's great when it actually gets around to playing movies, but clicking around menus I consider it to be slow and so I use a different DVD player when showing people individual scenes in movies because it's much faster. I'm surprised that there's something apparently much slower out there.

The 3910 is a universal player....SACDs, DVD-As, DVD-R's, VCD's, etc. As far as top Universal players is concerned (such as the Onkyo SP1000, Pio Elite 79-avi, Marantz 9600, Denon 5910, etc), it is right there with the rest of them in terms of menu speeds, etc ...... it certainly is no Denon 2900, as that was insanely fast, but it is no where near what you describe. Perhaps you need to have it checked. :confused:

The HD-A1 is horrendous....and I mean HORRENDOUS! when you insert the HD-DVD, you might as well go smoke a cigar, or take your favorite newspaper to the restroom, because it is THAT slow. When skipping chapters, heck, you might as well just let it play because it takes almost as long to get to the next chapter as it is just playing it......heheh. Ok, maybe I'm exagerating a little, but you get my point....To me (and hundreds of others...check the Hd-A1 owners thread), it was just unbearable.

I'll wait until the next generation players are up....;)

Interesting. But what the hell does any of this have to do with Pioneer Plasma displays. This is why these official threads are so stupid.

...I'll wait until the next generation players are up....;)Might be old news to some, but I heard today that Samsung is coming out with a HD-DVD/Blu-Ray player.

Has anyone plugged there PC into the 5060 or 4360 with this route:

DVI out on Card -> HDMI in on media reciever?

I am wondering if I bought the 5060 could that be done so that i don't have an ugly analog Dsub connection sticking out of the front of the Media Reciever (Why did they do it that way anyway?!?!)

Has anyone plugged there PC into the 5060 or 4360 with this route:

DVI out on Card -> HDMI in on media reciever?

I am wondering if I bought the 5060 could that be done so that i don't have an ugly analog Dsub connection sticking out of the front of the Media Reciever (Why did they do it that way anyway?!?!)

I can't answer your question, but I agree about the location of the VGA connector. There's plenty of room on the back panel for a VGA connector, and if not locating it only there, they should have made one on back & one on front. This is one of the few issues I have with my Pio 5060 (that and the fact that inputs 1&3 must be HDMI or component, but not both, so using your scenario would use up not only my second HDMI input, but all of my rear component conections as well; as I'm using the other HDMI input for HD TiVo).

Has anyone plugged there PC into the 5060 or 4360 with this route:

DVI out on Card -> HDMI in on media reciever?

I am wondering if I bought the 5060 could that be done so that i don't have an ugly analog Dsub connection sticking out of the front of the Media Reciever (Why did they do it that way anyway?!?!)

I am setting up my 5060 with a PC and a MyHD MDP-130 tuner card. Since I have the same heartburn with that front VGA connector on the media receiver, I purchased the DVI card for the MyHD tuner card and also got the free DVI/HDMI cable from Digital Connection.

I have tested the HDMI connection to the 5060 and found the picture to be shifted quite far to the right. I tried adjusting the 5060's horizontal centering but unfortunately the adjustment range is not sufficient to get the picture moved to the left as much as needed. I have since learned that the MyHD card has some registry settings which allow vertical and horizontal centering adjustments. I have obtained the software to make these adjustments but have not had the time to sit down and get the picture perfectly centered. I am confident that I will be able to get the HDMI video centered while the 5060's adjustments remain in their default settings.

DonP

The owners of Pioneer Plasma displays are using these components with their TV's and talking about their experiences. Whats the problem Andy?Interesting. But what the hell does any of this have to do with Pioneer Plasma displays. This is why these official threads are so stupid.

Instead of waiting 3 seconds after pressing the display button, try waiting 5-6 seconds.
I have also tried to access the service menu on my 1130hd and still cannot get into it waiting 5-6 seconds after pressing display (and then left, up, left, right and power on). I obtained my panel several days ago. I am uncomfortable turning the panel on and off to tried to get into the menu. Any other ideas?

cathealer

I have also tried to access the service menu on my 1130hd and still cannot get into it waiting 5-6 seconds after pressing display (and then left, up, left, right and power on). I obtained my panel several days ago. I am uncomfortable turning the panel on and off to tried to get into the menu. Any other ideas?

cathealer
I had a similar problem getting into the service menu on my 5060HD. I tried many times with different time intervals between pressing each button but with no success. Then, I turned off the TV Guide (set Zip Code to 00000) and got into the service menu on the first attempt.
DonP

I have also tried to access the service menu on my 1130hd and still cannot get into it waiting 5-6 seconds after pressing display (and then left, up, left, right and power on). I obtained my panel several days ago. I am uncomfortable turning the panel on and off to tried to get into the menu. Any other ideas?

cathealer


I also had problems initially, until i realized that in my concentration on hitting the remote buttons accurately, i was not pointing the remote at the television. when that light bulb went off in my head and i pointed the remote directly at the panel while pressing the buttons on the remote, it worked fine and has worked ever since. granted i have a 4360 but from everything i have read it works the same as your 1130.

ssmobin,
When you have 200+ hours on your panel, try these settings with HD and tell me what you think:

Main Menu:
AV Selection: Pure
Contrast: 28
Brightness: +2
Color: 0
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -8

Pro Adjust
Pure Cinema: ADV

Color Detail:
Color Temp: Manual
R High: -7
G High: -6
B High: -7
R Low: -7
G Low: -8
B Low: -9
CTI: Off

Color Management:
R: 0
Y: +2
G: 0
C: -4
B: 0
M: 0

NR:
DNR: Off
MPEG NR: Low

DRE:
DRE: Off
Black Level: On
ACL: Off
Gamma: 2
Others:
I-P Mode: 1

Make sure you change the Power Save mode to save2

D-Nice I just plugged these settings in to my 1130hd and I must say it looks a bit off I think it is a bit on the green side now this might be my fault as I have a different STB then you do I am using DIRECTV’s HR10-250 and playing robots that I recorded off of HBOHD I also have power save standard Before these settings I was using
Main Menu:
AV Selection: Pure
Contrast: 25
Brightness: -1
Color: +3
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -2

Pro Adjust
Pure Cinema: ADV or Off

Color Detail:
Color Temp: Manual
R High: -5
G High: -4
B High: -3
R Low: -4
G Low: -5
B Low: -6
CTI: On

Color Management:
R: -1
Y: -5
G: -7
C: +6
B: -2
M: -1

NR:
DNR: Off
MPEG NR: Low

DRE:
DRE: High or Mid
Black Level: Off
ACL: Off
Gamma: 2
Others:
I-P Mode: 1
Any input on what you think I might try next for now I am going back to the old settings thanks

Has anyone plugged there PC into the 5060 or 4360 with this route:

DVI out on Card -> HDMI in on media reciever?

I am wondering if I bought the 5060 could that be done so that i don't have an ugly analog Dsub connection sticking out of the front of the Media Reciever (Why did they do it that way anyway?!?!)


I've had my 5060 for four months now, so hopefully my memory serves me.

I orignally hooked my HTPC (with ATI-9600 video card) to the Pioneer media receiver via a DVI-to-HDMI cable. I had some overscan problems, but they were easily corrected with Powerstrip, and possibly by using some of the left-right-top-bottom screen adjustments in the Pioneer. However, I found that if I had certain computer glitches, lockups, or power outages, I sometimes had trouble getting the display to work upon rebooting. I believe the problem was with Powerstrip not starting properly upon reboot, thereby leaving the HTPC in a start-up resolution that was not recognized by the Pioneer. There was probably a solution to this, but I decided that it was just easier to use the VGA hook-up, since my components are in a closet and the front port location is not an issue.

Hope this helps.

D-Nice I just plugged these settings in to my 1130hd and I must say it looks a bit off I think it is a bit on the green side now this might be my fault as I have a different STB then you do I am using DIRECTV’s HR10-250 and playing robots that I recorded off of HBOHD I also have power save standard Before these settings I was using
Main Menu:
AV Selection: Pure
Contrast: 25
Brightness: -1
Color: +3
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -2

Pro Adjust
Pure Cinema: ADV or Off

Color Detail:
Color Temp: Manual
R High: -5
G High: -4
B High: -3
R Low: -4
G Low: -5
B Low: -6
CTI: On

Color Management:
R: -1
Y: -5
G: -7
C: +6
B: -2
M: -1

NR:
DNR: Off
MPEG NR: Low

DRE:
DRE: High or Mid
Black Level: Off
ACL: Off
Gamma: 2
Others:
I-P Mode: 1
Any input on what you think I might try next for now I am going back to the old settings thanks

Most of my settings are specific to Scientific Atlanta cable boxes unless specified otherwise. You can try them with different boxes, however, I don't know how they will look. If you are seeing a green cast, reduce the G high and G low.

OT posts got you down? some of us have been here since page 1 was only a glint in someone's eye... ;)

hey, I am just kidding around... the 7g's are out. Just about all we 6G people have is OT.;)

OK, had a random problem start last night. For some reason, when I am watching non-HD content on my SA8300 cable box, the "Input 1" box on the screen (upper right hand corner) won't go away. I tried hitting Input 1 and display to get it to disappear, but no dice. Any clue as to what could be wrong?

OK, had a random problem start last night. For some reason, when I am watching non-HD content on my SA8300 cable box, the "Input 1" box on the screen (upper right hand corner) won't go away. I tried hitting Input 1 and display to get it to disappear, but no dice. Any clue as to what could be wrong?

Several people have posted in this thread as having this come up, but no one has ever posted back to say what the problem actually was.

Our suggestion has always been to unplug and reconnect your cables to ensure something has not come loose. Are you using HDMI or component? I am hoping HDMI, but the same advice still applies either way.

HDMI. I haven't been fooling around with my components lately, but I'll give it a shot.

some of us have been here since page 1 was only a glint in someone's eye... ;)

You got that right!

Well, the 30 day period expires today on our 1130 from Magnolia, and I STILL CAN'T HOOK IT UP WITHOUT ELECTRICITY!

I know, should have waited until I was ready for it, but I was afraid they wouldn't be available and those blasted 12% coupons.........

/rant

Thanks for listening. At least I have the 2 year warranty in case.

I am using a motorola cable box and just reached the 200 hour mark on my elite. I am going to adjust my settings based on your initial recommendations and let you know how it looks :)
Most of my settings are specific to Scientific Atlanta cable boxes unless specified otherwise. You can try them with different boxes, however, I don't know how they will look. If you are seeing a green cast, reduce the G high and G low.

I usually wait 3 seconds after pressing display, then I make sure to hit every button listed without any delay. I've found that if you hesitate, or wait a couple seconds to hit power (after doing the left up, left right sequence) that sometimes it wont come up. I've accessed the service menu probably 15 times and it worked almost every single time on the first try.
I have also tried to access the service menu on my 1130hd and still cannot get into it waiting 5-6 seconds after pressing display (and then left, up, left, right and power on). I obtained my panel several days ago. I am uncomfortable turning the panel on and off to tried to get into the menu. Any other ideas?

cathealer

oh man, that sucks.

I am coming up on my 30 day as well, but have been enjoying it for those past 30 days!

You wont regret it and I know what you mean about those coupons as I got mine from magnolia as well ;)
You got that right!

Well, the 30 day period expires today on our 1130 from Magnolia, and I STILL CAN'T HOOK IT UP WITHOUT ELECTRICITY!

I know, should have waited until I was ready for it, but I was afraid they wouldn't be available and those blasted 12% coupons.........

/rant

Thanks for listening. At least I have the 2 year warranty in case.

Greetings all,

Just recently joined AVS (this is my second post) and purchased an 1130 last week. This is our first plasma and I've been using the D-nice break-in settings. It was a hard decision to purchase the 1130 over the 5071 from BB - especially when BB had the 5071 discounted nicely.

I managed to get BB to discount the 1130 by the same percentage and got another $170 in gift cards (promotion for buying any new set) so I think the deal was good. I purchased from BB because I think returning something on-line might be a hassle and I could drive up and get the set home and enjoy it right away. I also had $135 left on a gift card.

I have two questions that I would be most appreciative if any forum members could answer:

1. Based on your hands-on experience with the 1130 and what you may know of the 5070/5071, would you pay another $1k to trade sets and why? I realize this is a subjective question, but I'd be interested in your responses.

Now for a technical question that's been troubling me since the purchase:

2. I went with the Elite because it is so revered as top quality, had the seperate receiver (which I perceived was better from reading this forum), it's advanced calibration menus and because I thought that the scaler and processing was the same as the 7th gen units. I thought that DVD, HD or Blue-Ray discs would also be processed the same and the Elite would therefore be the better unit (same or better PQ with the same processing and nicer overall presentation). Since the 7th gen sets "can accept 1080p directly" over HDMI, did I assume incorrectly and the 1130 will have more inherrent error due to additional processing/conversion with the HD media? Will the final picture PQ be lesser on the 1130?

Thanks in advance. This is a great site with tons of knowledge.

Several people have posted in this thread as having this come up, but no one has ever posted back to say what the problem actually was.

Our suggestion has always been to unplug and reconnect your cables to ensure something has not come loose. Are you using HDMI or component? I am hoping HDMI, but the same advice still applies either way.

No good. I unplugged and replugged everything. Any other suggestions?

No good. I unplugged and replugged everything. Any other suggestions?

Unless someone has anything better...

You will hate this one. Reset the cable box and tv to default states. Full reset, unplug power. Just like they were new.

(before that you might want to search for others who had the same problem and PM them. It might be a good way to find out beforehand, but could take time if people do not check PM's or email often)

Here is one post (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7973019&&#post7973019) -- I know there are one or two more.

Nemo Zorro
May I ask where I can get a 12% off coupon for Magnolia?

Thanks so much.

I switched the TV out of auto screen size mode, and the problem went away. However, there is obviously something screwy going on. I tried unplugging it for a while, but no difference. Maybe I will do a full reset of the TV. Shouldn't be a big problem, I just need to write down my video settings. I'm guessing the reset procedure is in the manual?

I switched the TV out of auto screen size mode, and the problem went away. However, there is obviously something screwy going on. I tried unplugging it for a while, but no difference. Maybe I will do a full reset of the TV. Shouldn't be a big problem, I just need to write down my video settings. I'm guessing the reset procedure is in the manual?

That is interesting because I dont remember anyone reporting that they were in auto size mode... I never use auto mode, maybe thats why its never happened to me.

I dont remember if the full reset proceedure is in the manual.

That's something to keep in mind w/Best Buy...it's silly to buy online, cuz salesman at the stores WILL deal on price AND offer generous financing terms that aren't technically offered in print ads a that exact time.

I won't go into details, but I called BB on the phone to see if they had the 5070 on display, and the guy offerent me 18 mos. no interest & came down near the lower online prices I've seen during the first freekin phone call!!

THAT'S where they beat the admittedly great e-tailers here & elsewhere (abes/one call/abt, etc.)....

No interest thru Jan 2008??? Sign me up!! I'd LOVE to support all the great, non big-box vendors I've been reading about here...but they don't want to (can't?) offer convenient/generous financing deals.

That's something to keep in mind w/Best Buy...it's silly to buy online, cuz salesman at the stores WILL deal on price AND offer generous financing terms that aren't technically offered in print ads a that exact time.

I won't go into details, but I called BB on the phone to see if they had the 5070 on display, and the guy offerent me 18 mos. no interest & came down near the lower online prices I've seen during the first freekin phone call!!

THAT'S where they beat the admittedly great e-tailers here & elsewhere (abes/one call/abt, etc.)....

No interest thru Jan 2008??? Sign me up!! I'd LOVE to support all the great, non big-box vendors I've been reading about here...but they don't want to (can't?) offer convenient/generous financing deals.

TVA has financing through GECAF. I think they offer 6-18 months no intsrest or payments.

Nemo Zorro
May I ask where I can get a 12% off coupon for Magnolia?

Thanks so much.

They come in the mail every month or so with the Rewards program (you need to sign up for). It initially cost a few dollars per year, but I think they are changing it now so it is free, although some of their benefits may change too.

If you frequent BB or Magnolia, it's probably a good thing to join. I joined because I needed lots of supplies for a DVD mastering job, and they were the only store local and available at the time. It's been worth it I guess.

But as with anything else, shop around. For the Elites, Magnolia isn't a bad option if you get a coupon because of the easy return policy (of course it helps to plan ahead and have electricity when you buy so you can test the TV out! ;) ). For the regular Pio line, you would might do better with an authorized retailer like TVA.

I have a Sony Combo DVD/VHS hooked up to the 5060 tuner.
At first viewing in Dec 05, the pictures on both DVD and VCR were terrrific. We don't watch much of that media. When the grandkids wanted to watch movies we noticed recently that basically there was no color except a green hue. We switched out the VCR and got the same results, ruling out the VCR. Could it be the component cables or has the tuner gone bad?
Jacker

Nemo Zorro,

Thanks so much for the info on the BB/Magnolia rewards program. I am hoping to get the 1140 when it comes out and this would be great.

Nemo Zorro,

Thanks so much for the info on the BB/Magnolia rewards program. I am hoping to get the 1140 when it comes out and this would be great.

No worries; will definitely be interested in your comments on the 1140 when you get it.

D-Nice: I changed the settings last night based your recommendations and it looks great. The picture is much brighter and a the colors are more rich. I havent had any issues with the green levels like a previous poster did. Thanks for the settings and if you have any new settings I would be glad to try them out! :D

Is 43" model too big for 8 feet - 9.5 feet viewing distance (digital cable tv, xvid/xvid tv series)? I still dont know if i should get 43" pioneer (107.6cm width) or go with smaller 40" sony v2000 lcd (98.8cm width) or 37" panasonic px600 plasma (97.7cm width) :) I cant get px60 panasonic because of fan noise reports (probably fixed in px600 since no reports yet).

Ofcourse main worry is that pioneer is simply too big for room :) 12 feet x 13,5 feet :)

Could the 1130 owners please let me know what the best screen size setting is? I have my panel set to pure as per D-Nice's settings but I'm unsure as to what the screen size should be set to. Should it be Full or Wide and what should the 4:3 setting be set to? 4:3 or Stretch?

Thanks,

Angelo Rizzo

Is 43" model too big for 8 feet - 9.5 feet viewing distance (digital cable tv, xvid/xvid tv series)? I still dont know if i should get 43" pioneer (107.6cm width) or go with smaller 40" sony v2000 lcd (98.8cm width) or 37" panasonic px600 plasma (97.7cm width) :) I cant get px60 panasonic because of fan noise reports (probably fixed in px600 since no reports yet).

Ofcourse main worry is that pioneer is simply too big for room :) 12 feet x 13,5 feet :)

I have the 4360, and my room size and viewing distance are almost exactly the same as yours.
It is a great set-up.
The TV definitely doesn't feel too big. If anything, it might be just right - a 50" would work as well.
(I think 40" or smaller would feel small though)

good luck.

Are there still 4360s available?

I have an 1130 and a computer connected to it via VGA. I have it on energy save 2 and power management 1. Once during the 300 hours I've used it, the tv turned off as I was watching a show. I had to turn it on and off twice to get the picture and audio back. Maybe the computer went into stand-by mode and it triggered the "no-signal" warning to the tv. However, I was watching a broadcast, so it should not have done this. Once I turned off my computer and the tv turned off a minute later or so. Again, I had to turn it on and off twice to get the picture and audio. I'm guessing it has something to do with the power management. I turned it off for now.

Anyone with similar experiences?

i finally got into the service menu.

i disabled the tv guide (set zip to 00000) and got into the service menu on the first try. it should probably be added to the instructions that you may have to disable the tv guide. seriously, myself and others tried it 20+ times without luck.

panel has 285 hours :bigthumb:

Hi!
Somebody knows if 1920x1080p 24HZ is 1080i?
&
Pioneer 506XD supports 1080p?

Thanks!

Hi,
I am about to buy the PDP-436HDG here in Latin-America. Can somebody confirm that it has an PAL/NTSC/SECAM-Tuner so I could use this TV when I move back to Germany??
Does this TV support 1080p?

I have a 50" Elite and love it. I was/am not using factory speakers (would not fit in cabinet) so just ran digital audio from cable box to stereo and has been working great...no static, etc....have to turn on multiple pieces of equipment using more remotes.

In Laws living with us now do to Hurricane Katrina and figured it might not be bad idea to hook up factory speakers to TV to eliminate need to use receiver/remotes...keep it simple for them...but now I have a noise problem. I can hear a slight cracklin static noise from both speakers, left side more than right...especially when not much audio from movie/tv. Also noticed that noise more noticable on HD channels or higher channels.

I swapped the audio from cable box to media box and ensured it was not running too close to power wires. I also routed media-TV wires away from power as much as possible.

Not sure what else to try? Any thoughts?

Thanks.

I have a 50" Elite and love it. I was/am not using factory speakers (would not fit in cabinet) so just ran digital audio from cable box to stereo and has been working great...no static, etc....have to turn on multiple pieces of equipment using more remotes.



I am planning to set up the way you did initially.
- hook up a DVD player and HD cable box directly to the audio reciever and by-pass the Pioneer plasma "media receiver" all togehter...
Did you have any audio sinc issues keeping audio completely independed of picture like that?
I have heard this can be a problem; if you don't include the media receiver in the audio chain - even if ending up at a surround sound receiver, but I feel like it is a redundant step to do so.

(sorry not to have any info to address your question)

I did not have any audio sync issues goign throught the receiver, etc....and may have to go back that way if the static/cracklin continues.

Anyone have a static/cracklin issues going through media center?

Thanks

I am planning to set up the way you did initially.
- hook up a DVD player and HD cable box directly to the audio reciever and by-pass the Pioneer plasma "media receiver" all togehter...
Did you have any audio sinc issues keeping audio completely independed of picture like that?
I have heard this can be a problem; if you don't include the media receiver in the audio chain - even if ending up at a surround sound receiver, but I feel like it is a redundant step to do so.



Sync should normally not be a problem. And, going directly from your STB to the A/V system is the only way to get 5.1 audio. The Elite MR will only pass 2-channel audio.

I have an 1130 and a computer connected to it via VGA. I have it on energy save 2 and power management 1. Once during the 300 hours I've used it, the tv turned off as I was watching a show.

Anyone with similar experiences?

Yes, I had the same problem during my 200 hour break-in period. The TV turned itself off when I was allowing OTA PBS to run constantly and also when I was running a break-in DVD. I can't remember which Power Managment setting I was using at the time, but I turned it off and have not experienced another problem with the TV turning itself off. Actually, that's not entirely true. I've had the TV shut off once or twice since then (over last 4 months), but not enough that I consider it a problem and certainly not daily like when I ran the Power Management setting.

Scott

Thanks!! Turning off the TV guide by setting the Zip Code to 00000 was the problem. I have 42 hours.....still some time to go.

Hi!
Somebody knows if 1920x1080p 24HZ is 1080i?
&
Pioneer 506XD supports 1080p?

Thanks!

Not sure if this is answering your question, but here goes.

The only Pioneer panel that I'm aware of that is true 1080p is the Elite PRO-FHD1, just released in the States for 10k MSRP. The rest of their panels, Elite or just Pioneer, are 768p panels.

The 2 new Pioneer xx70 panels just released here will accept a 1080p/24Hz signal, then just downscale to 768p. This would be useful for any 1080p source, like Blu-Ray, or HD-DVD - this input saves the extra processing needed to convert film material to 60Hz that could result in motion judder, etc. But it is still not a true 1080p panel. This is a new input only on the 7th generation 768p Pioneer panels, and will probably be on the 7g Elites as well.

Hope that helps.

I believe in that case feeding the 6G Pio a 1080p@24Hz signal over HDMI should solve all problems (yes, the 6G Pios support 1080p@24Hz over HDMI). The Lumagen video processors should be able to create that signal from any film based SD material.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6238685&highlight=1080p#post6238685

Post #232


This is a quote from way back in this thread (dated 9/23/2005). I've not read every post in this very long thread, but should I assume that Madshi was wrong; that in fact the 6G Pioneer and Elite PDPs do NOT support 1080p24hz input?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6238685&highlight=1080p#post6238685

Post #232


This is a quote from way back in this thread (dated 9/23/2005). I've not read every post in this very long thread, but should I assume that Madshi was wrong; that in fact the 6G Pioneer and Elite PDPs do NOT support 1080p24hz input?

I believe you are correct - I don't think the 6gs support this input.

Hi everyone,

I have a 4360 and i am using a cable card, when i'm in guide, my channels are all grouped together and are not in order, How do i make it so all my channels are in order in the guide?

mefromfl,
I have the same issue on my 5060. I spoke to a Pioneer rep. from their customer service center. He said that there is NO way to make the channels automatically line up with their corresponding number. You have to do it manually. I quite trying after an hour of trying to find each one through my 300 channels and move them. I have learned that TVGOS just sucks. Sorry for the bad news.

Need help determining what type of cable I need in order to connect my Pro-HD1130 with an Elite A/V receiver for control purposes. I'm referring only to SR+ connection - not to any of the audio or video connections.

The part # for the SR+ cable from Pioneer is ADE7095. It's a 9 foot cable and costs about $29 (MSRP). I only need a cable that's 3 feet and don't want to pay almost $30 for a cable that is 3x the length I need.

I've read that a standard mono mini plug is not a substitute, althought it might have been for the previous SR connection (not SR+).

Can anyone who's made this connection between their PDP and their AV receiver help me out? Thanks a bunch!!!!

How do I stop the TV Guide from appearing every time switch on my TV.
Thyanks.


In addition to totally disabling the TVGOS by entering a 00000 zip code, there is a startup option somewhere under the TVGOS menu system which will give you the behavior you desire without totally disabling the TVGOS.

-Drew

I use Full mode for pretty much everything. It displays HD the best IMO.
Could the 1130 owners please let me know what the best screen size setting is? I have my panel set to pure as per D-Nice's settings but I'm unsure as to what the screen size should be set to. Should it be Full or Wide and what should the 4:3 setting be set to? 4:3 or Stretch?

Thanks,

Angelo Rizzo

Pickup a Harmony 880 and eliminate the need for multiple remotes :)

I programmed mine and now even my gf can watch tv, watch a dvd, play video games, etc. All with only having to push one button to change devices. I can even control my DVR box and record shows with the same remote ;)
I have a 50" Elite and love it. I was/am not using factory speakers (would not fit in cabinet) so just ran digital audio from cable box to stereo and has been working great...no static, etc....have to turn on multiple pieces of equipment using more remotes.

In Laws living with us now do to Hurricane Katrina and figured it might not be bad idea to hook up factory speakers to TV to eliminate need to use receiver/remotes...keep it simple for them...but now I have a noise problem. I can hear a slight cracklin static noise from both speakers, left side more than right...especially when not much audio from movie/tv. Also noticed that noise more noticable on HD channels or higher channels.

I swapped the audio from cable box to media box and ensured it was not running too close to power wires. I also routed media-TV wires away from power as much as possible.

Not sure what else to try? Any thoughts?

Thanks.

yup, digital out from cable box to receiver is the way to go.

how are you enjoying your 1130 vico? I have reached 200 hours and am blown away with this set! :DSync should normally not be a problem. And, going directly from your STB to the A/V system is the only way to get 5.1 audio. The Elite MR will only pass 2-channel audio.

mefromfl,
I have the same issue on my 5060. I spoke to a Pioneer rep. from their customer service center. He said that there is NO way to make the channels automatically line up with their corresponding number. You have to do it manually. I quite trying after an hour of trying to find each one through my 300 channels and move them. I have learned that TVGOS just sucks. Sorry for the bad news.
What's worse is that after you take the 2-3 hours to line everything up, TVGOS will decide to reset itself every so often, landing you right back on square 1. I've learned this the hard way on my Sharp LCD. I don't even fool with TVGOS on my 4360 since I'm using a Moto DVR.

Regarding the 5060, if sending a VGA signal from a computer, what is the optimal resolution and frequency to tell the video card to output? Is this native rate (ie 1280x768)? Do most video cards in laptops allow you to specify these settings and does it matter if the laptop is widescreen or not?

Thanks for any help...

Finally picked up a tv stand. My mom actually bought a 62" Mitsubishi DLP with her new house and the tv came with a stand. However, her new house already had a media center so she didnt need it!

I wanted all black, but for free I can live with dark grey ;)

http://show.imagehosting.us/show/1498089/0/nouser_1498/T0_-1_1498089.jpg


I couldnt fit all my components underneath, but decided to move the main compenents there and keep the center channel speaker on the top shelf. I like the way it turned out. Now just need to clean up a few wires and I am set

http://show.imagehosting.us/show/1498084/0/nouser_1498/T0_-1_1498084.jpg

Need help determining what type of cable I need in order to connect my Pro-HD1130 with an Elite A/V receiver for control purposes. I'm referring only to SR+ connection - not to any of the audio or video connections.

The part # for the SR+ cable from Pioneer is ADE7095. It's a 9 foot cable and costs about $29 (MSRP). I only need a cable that's 3 feet and don't want to pay almost $30 for a cable that is 3x the length I need.

I've read that a standard mono mini plug is not a substitute, althought it might have been for the previous SR connection (not SR+).

Can anyone who's made this connection between their PDP and their AV receiver help me out? Thanks a bunch!!!!
It's a 3 ring cable and it is extremely hard to find - mono 1-ring won't work, stereo 2-ring won't work. I got mine from seller Razern on ebay - at least I think that's the name (I believe it was 6' long and less than $5). It was called a audio/video dubbing cable or something like that. If you search the forum for SR+, you should see the thread I started on it. It is NOT an easy cable to find - I couldn't find anyone locally that sold it and I searched everywhere.

yup, digital out from cable box to receiver is the way to go.

how are you enjoying your 1130 vico? I have reached 200 hours and am blown away with this set! :D

I continue to be dazzled by it! I haven't accumulated as much time yet (a little under 100 hrs). Been cruising on the boat and riding my Harley as much as I can, so TV has taken a back seat to the sun. I also picked up a Harmony, based on your experience -- a great addition. I watched a Red Sox game on ESPN-HD the other night, and I continue to be blown away by the PQ. Other than it means the end of our summer, I'm looking forward to the NFL in HD.

Our use, up to this point, has been primarily Netflix and I haven't regretted the purchase.

Now that you've reached 200, have you reset your parameters?

Cheers

It's a 3 ring cable and it is extremely hard to find - mono 1-ring won't work, stereo 2-ring won't work. I got mine from seller Razern on ebay - at least I think that's the name (I believe it was 6' long and less than $5). It was called a audio/video dubbing cable or something like that. If you search the forum for SR+, you should see the thread I started on it. It is NOT an easy cable to find - I couldn't find anyone locally that sold it and I searched everywhere.


Nuzy,
Any chance you could snap a close-up photo of one of the ends of the plug, so I can see exactly what it looks like? This would help me determine if what I'm locating online will work (I'm not sure if 3 rings = 3 conductor or 4 conductor; I think the rings are conductors as well as the tip). I would be very grateful.

Nuzy,
Any chance you could snap a close-up photo of one of the ends of the plug, so I can see exactly what it looks like? This would help me determine if what I'm locating online will work (I'm not sure if 3 rings = 3 conductor or 4 conductor; I think the rings are conductors as well as the tip). I would be very grateful.


It is a 3-ring, 4-pole, 4 conductor cable.

Nuzy,
Any chance you could snap a close-up photo of one of the ends of the plug, so I can see exactly what it looks like? This would help me determine if what I'm locating online will work (I'm not sure if 3 rings = 3 conductor or 4 conductor; I think the rings are conductors as well as the tip). I would be very grateful.
Go to ebay and type this in the search box:

"3.5mm Mini AV male/male plug camcorder A/V patch cable"

That's the one you need.

Nuzy

Go to ebay and type this in the search box:

"3.5mm Mini AV male/male plug camcorder A/V patch cable"

That's the one you need.

Nuzy

You da man!

What's worse is that after you take the 2-3 hours to line everything up, TVGOS will decide to reset itself every so often, landing you right back on square 1. I've learned this the hard way on my Sharp LCD. I don't even fool with TVGOS on my 4360 since I'm using a Moto DVR.The coolest thing about the TV guide and scheduling shows is it always changes the channel to a show & time that is not on my schedule. I can be watching something and then suddenly I'll be watching Barney.:mad:

Regarding the 5060, if sending a VGA signal from a computer, what is the optimal resolution and frequency to tell the video card to output? Is this native rate (ie 1280x768)? Do most video cards in laptops allow you to specify these settings and does it matter if the laptop is widescreen or not?

Thanks for any help...

you really really really want to send it 1280 x 768. this will give you a per-pixel / pixel perfect display without any stretching, over, or underscan. it looks phenomenal. it will accept other resolutions but they look horrid by comparison.

i don't know if 'most' laptops will let you select this resolution but many will. on my thinkpad, it shows up automatically as a choice once i plug the tv into the vga, activate that display and turn off the lcd. my thinkpad is not widescreen. if it was, i suspect i wouldn't have to turn off the lcd, since it refuses to display an 'off' aspect ratio on the lcd.

you really really really want to send it 1280 x 768. this will give you a per-pixel / pixel perfect display without any stretching, over, or underscan. it looks phenomenal. it will accept other resolutions but they look horrid by comparison.

i don't know if 'most' laptops will let you select this resolution but many will. on my thinkpad, it shows up automatically as a choice once i plug the tv into the vga, activate that display and turn off the lcd. my thinkpad is not widescreen. if it was, i suspect i wouldn't have to turn off the lcd, since it refuses to display an 'off' aspect ratio on the lcd.

I have a 5060 and I was thinking for some reason that it wouldn't accept native rate, but after reading your post I just tried it with my Wife's MacBook Pro; the resolutions supported don't include 1280x768, but after plugging in the Pio it (the MacBook Pro) updated its choices, to include the Pio's res. You are right, the pq is sharper at that res (I had used the "1024 x 768 stretched" mode before, and that worked, but at this res the pq is sharper.

thanks schwett, do you or anyone else know how high end HTPCs outputting 1280x768 via VGA compare to high end dvd players?

Also, what frequency at 1280x768 should you send to the display, or does this depend on the material?

Hi,

After numerous successful attempts of checking the Panel Hours on my 1130, I attempted the same thing on my friend's Pro-910HD. Needless to say, I was able to bring up the service menu but as I was continuing through the usual keystrokes, I noticed that the pages seemed different to what they looked like on the 1130. All of a sudden, the screen changed to a solid beige colour. Pressing the mute or arrow buttons would bring the service menu back up but after a few seconds of inactivity, the screen would revert back to the solid beige screen. I decided to power down hoping that everything would be fine once out of the service menu, but to no avail. Once I powered back up, there was the solid beige screen, again. What do I do now? If anyone out there has any insight or experience with something like this, please help.

Waiting anxiously,

Ange Rizzo.

thanks schwett, do you or anyone else know how high end HTPCs outputting 1280x768 via VGA compare to high end dvd players?

i can't answer that, but i can say that a 4-5 gb 1280x720 resolution .wmv or .mpg file played through my thinkpad (definitely not a high end htpc hehehe) looks absolutely phenomenal, as good as HD and certainly far better than standard DVD. if you play it at 1:1 it looks even a little better, but then the aspect ratio is very slightly off (what should be 768 pixels high is only 720.)

What is the best refresh rate to send to the 5060 via the VGA input?

Thanks

Ahh yes, there is life outside isnt there! I agree that I cant wait for NFL in HD.

I updated the settings based on D-Nices recommendation and it looks superb. I am hoping to get it calibrated within the next month or two. Definitely want to have it calibrated before football starts!
I continue to be dazzled by it! I haven't accumulated as much time yet (a little under 100 hrs). Been cruising on the boat and riding my Harley as much as I can, so TV has taken a back seat to the sun. I also picked up a Harmony, based on your experience -- a great addition. I watched a Red Sox game on ESPN-HD the other night, and I continue to be blown away by the PQ. Other than it means the end of our summer, I'm looking forward to the NFL in HD.

Our use, up to this point, has been primarily Netflix and I haven't regretted the purchase.

Now that you've reached 200, have you reset your parameters?

Cheers

Finally picked up a tv stand. My mom actually bought a 62" Mitsubishi DLP with her new house and the tv came with a stand. However, her new house already had a media center so she didnt need it!

I wanted all black, but for free I can live with dark grey ;)



Dark grey or not, that is a nice looking stand!

Hi,

After numerous successful attempts of checking the Panel Hours on my 1130, I attempted the same thing on my friend's Pro-910HD. Needless to say, I was able to bring up the service menu but as I was continuing through the usual keystrokes, I noticed that the pages seemed different to what they looked like on the 1130. All of a sudden, the screen changed to a solid beige colour. Pressing the mute or arrow buttons would bring the service menu back up but after a few seconds of inactivity, the screen would revert back to the solid beige screen. I decided to power down hoping that everything would be fine once out of the service menu, but to no avail. Once I powered back up, there was the solid beige screen, again. What do I do now? If anyone out there has any insight or experience with something like this, please help.

Waiting anxiously,

Ange Rizzo.

Ouch - I'd probably call Pioneer. I'm sure there is a reset procedure somewhere - maybe it is something they could walk you thru.

Thanks!

Next step is to upgrade the speakers/receiver, but that probably wont be for a little while as I live in an apartment and its already too loud lol.
Dark grey or not, that is a nice looking stand!

I was going to go for the Pio 490, but the secrets benchmarks were disappointing. So my quest for all like-branded equip is now over. I need a new player and have heard really good things about the Oppo. I have a few concerns:

The 971 is supposed to handle video a little better, but the 970 is a liittle more consumer friendly. i like the price of the 970 better as well, plus it supports HDMI. also, the 971 has the MB bug with the Faroudja chip. something i'd like to avoid.

Bottom line, does anyone have either player with their Pio and can comment on how they like it? I only play store bought DVD's, so the other features don't really concern me. This is just to tide me over until the HD/BR stuff settles down so i want to keep it under $200. Thanks guys!

Greetings all,

Learning from you since January 2006. Finally convinced me and so I own 4360 now. Definitely couldn't go wrong with that decision.

Have by chance any of you connected Blue Ray to 4360 or 5060 by now? If so, any issues... HDMI etc.?

Holding out for Blue Ray players to come down to earth in price, can't wait. Maybe by that time I will have surpassed 200 hours on my 4360. I've had it for just a week now, the manufacture date on the panel is May 2006 must be one of the last off production line.

In the mean time I hold settings low Save2 etc.. HD service through cable card next month I am really looking forward to that. Picture is just awesome with just SD cable, I cannot imagine when HD is hooked up!

Hope these pics load up

I saw BR at BB & can't believe how much video noise it displayed. My Oppo971 has a better pic quality than that $1000player. On the other hand, ToshibaHD displayed a much better HD than anything I've ever seen.

Holding out for Blue Ray players to come down to earth in price, can't wait.

Cheers,
TP

One thing great about Oppo is you can return it within 30 days if you don't like it. I have it & amaze at the pic quality displays on my 1130, especially at the price & its outstanding product support. Oppo service support puts Pio to shame.

I need a new player and have heard really good things about the Oppo. I have a few concerns:

The 971 is supposed to handle video a little better, but the 970 is a liittle more consumer friendly. i like the price of the 970 better as well, plus it supports HDMI. also, the 971 has the MB bug with the Faroudja chip. something i'd like to avoid.

Bottom line, does anyone have either player with their Pio and can comment on how they like it? I only play store bought DVD's, so the other features don't really concern me. This is just to tide me over until the HD/BR stuff settles down so i want to keep it under $200. Thanks guys!

Cheers,
TP.

Every now & then I have the static/cracklin from the plasma speakers. No issue w/ receiver.

I did not have any audio sync issues goign throught the receiver, etc....and may have to go back that way if the static/cracklin continues.

Anyone have a static/cracklin issues going through media center?

Thanks

Cheers,
TP.

When sending a 1280x768 signal to the 5060 via VGA, what refresh rate should you specify?

Pickup a Harmony 880 and eliminate the need for multiple remotes :)

I programmed mine and now even my gf can watch tv, watch a dvd, play video games, etc. All with only having to push one button to change devices. I can even control my DVR box and record shows with the same remote ;)

Question about the Harmony 880 remote:

Can you program the remote to disable the hdmi input so that you can play something via component on the 5060 (using the same input) and also have it change the picture settings from "user" to "game"?

I'm tired of having to manualy disable the hdmi just to use the component input and this would make things som much easier.

I saw BR at BB & can't believe how much video noise it displayed. My Oppo971 has a better pic quality than that $1000player. On the other hand, ToshibaHD displayed a much better HD than anything I've ever seen.



Cheers,
TP

Been tossing around the idea for ToshibaHD also, it just seems to me the larger file capacity of Blu Ray will eventually turn out tops in this media tug of war. Anyway, I can wait as I have advanced plenty with acquiring the 4360 and gave away my Toshiba Theater rear projection circa 1996.

Thanks for the reply

I had originally intended to wall mount my 4360 but have now decided to use a table top stand. I don't know which model I need or if there is an aftermarket stand I could use. (The Pioneer website totally sucks!!!) I've seen PDK-TS01, PDK-TS04 AND PDK-TS05 mentioned on several websites but nothing linking them to the 4360.

Could someone mention their model # for me and then I can start looking for one. I'm in Canada and parts for this TV seem hard to find. (It took a month to get a new media box!!)

TIA
rrcool

I have the 4360 and use the rotating "elite" stand.

I had also contemplated wall mounting, but I like the option to be abe to rotate the TV slightly to face exactly where I sit (corner or center of my sectional couch.)

The elite stand model is TS12, I believe.
(I think the TS05 and TS10 are the same thing though - just from different regions... can some one confirm that?)

I am also in canada - Toronto
I had a hell of time getting that stand back in May - had to drive to a seperate BB location 100 kms away from the one I ordred from, as they couldn't get it in stock.
You'll probably be able to find one on ebay though.


How long ago did you get the new media receiver?
and why did you have to have it replaced?
I am sure if (when) mine breaks down, there will be no way to get a new one as that feature has been discontinued, so we'll have to just replace the whole screen with a newer generation that doesn't include the MR - that sucks.

I had originally intended to wall mount my 4360 but have now decided to use a table top stand. I don't know which model I need or if there is an aftermarket stand I could use. (The Pioneer website totally sucks!!!) I've seen PDK-TS01, PDK-TS04 AND PDK-TS05 mentioned on several websites but nothing linking them to the 4360.

Could someone mention their model # for me and then I can start looking for one. I'm in Canada and parts for this TV seem hard to find. (It took a month to get a new media box!!)

TIA
rrcool
The silver stand that comes with the 4360/5060 is the PDK-TS10. Didn't yours come with it? I've got one that I'm not using with my 4360 since I also picked up an Elite swivel stand (PDK-1013) on ebay. My TS10 is free to a good home. You would just pay the cost of shipping. PM me if you're interested.

Been tossing around the idea for ToshibaHD also, it just seems to me the larger file capacity of Blu Ray will eventually turn out tops in this media tug of war. Anyway, I can wait as I have advanced plenty with acquiring the 4360 and gave away my Toshiba Theater rear projection circa 1996.

Thanks for the reply

BD storage capacity is irrelevant if/when they actually use VC-1/MPEG4 as a codec. No studio is going to cut their profits to add games and other items the BD group has "promised" unless they are going to charge alot more for the disc. increasing the bandwidth of an encoded VC-1 movie will not be done either as they can "double dip" and make it a "Superbit" release.

BD storage capacity is irrelevant if/when they actually use VC-1/MPEG4 as a codec.

Point taken; Will probably go the economical route anyhow which ever one wins in offering the lowest price. Thats one good thing about two format offerings, one will try to out do the other in price for more business. We'll see.

On another subject concerning the break-in settings for the 4360, the last question you asked is what cable box was I using. I replied I didn't have one that the cable was routed direct to 4360 media box.

The cable company wants to lease me a HD box for some sort of "full gateway" (something to do the channel guide I believe) this is more per month than the Cable Card. Would there be any advantage in PQ in going with their box rather than allowing my 4360 to read the card?

I am waiting for 200 hours to elapse before I order this service anyhow so I have time. With my job the plasma stays off for 3 or more weeks at a time. So it could be a few months at this rate.

Point taken; Will probably go the economical route anyhow which ever one wins in offering the lowest price. Thats one good thing about two format offerings, one will try to out do the other in price for more business. We'll see.

On another subject concerning the break-in settings for the 4360, the last question you asked is what cable box was I using. I replied I didn't have one that the cable was routed direct to 4360 media box.

The cable company wants to lease me a HD box for some sort of "full gateway" (something to do the channel guide I believe) this is more per month than the Cable Card. Would there be any advantage in PQ in going with their box rather than allowing my 4360 to read the card?

I am waiting for 200 hours to elapse before I order this service anyhow so I have time. With my job the plasma stays off for 3 or more weeks at a time. So it could be a few months at this rate.

You should get the best possible PQ from a cable card as the Pioneer will be doing all of the scaling/deinterlacing. However, cable cards are a PIA. They are more trouble than they are worth IMO. If you do get a box, see if your cable co has the SA 8300....best DVR for cable out there.

You should get the best possible PQ from a cable card as the Pioneer will be doing all of the scaling/deinterlacing. However, cable cards are a PIA. They are more trouble than they are worth IMO. If you do get a box, see if your cable co has the SA 8300....best DVR for cable out there.Isn't somewhat incongruous to keep pushing the SA8300? This series STB is about 3 - 4 years old and rather antiquated by A/V standards. ;)

Will cable companies ever come out with a new DVR? They don't stop raising their fees.

Isn't somewhat incongruous to keep pushing the SA8300? This series STB is about 3 - 4 years old and rather antiquated by A/V standards. ;)

Will cable companies ever come out with a new DVR? They don't stop raising their fees.

Do you know of a better one that a cable co provides...especially Time Warner?

Do you know of a better one that a cable co provides...especially Time Warner?

At this time I have no idea what box Cox Communications is using. I did however, see a multitude of people in line for the HD box whatever model it is, due to an introductory 3 free months should you choose the their box over their card. The box thereafter would be twice the money per month for HD. Incidently the box looked to be very large under arm.

It would be a shame not to utilize the 4360's electronics in signal processing. With the cable card issues you mentioned, what are the specifics troubling the cable card if you don't mind me asking? This will weigh heavy on whether to spring for the more expensive HD Cable Box or not.

I think I promised to post pics of the Pio stretch modes. I took the pics before returning the set, but just had the time to stitch them together.

The SD modes are what most are likely interested in. I like Cinema the best. Just a bit of stretch and a bit of zoom. A good compromise and the end result is not very distorted looking. I like this much better than the Panny "Just" mode and it was one of the reasons I was very reluctant to buy a consumer Panny. (Disclaimer: these were taken for illustration of the stretch modes, not for PQ.)

http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/4497/stretchmodessd7ly.jpg

I'll put up the HD stretch modes since people have been interested. They are not as useful, but if you have a 4:3 picture on a HD signal, the wide mode will at least fill the screen. This still is from a local news broadcast that is in 4:3 SD, but broadcast on their HD channel.

http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/8254/stretchmodeshd5rf.jpg

Edit: Here is a post with the Panny SD stretch modes for comparison (Panny's don't stretch HD):
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6504348&&#post6504348


Hope this is useful!


Can someone tell me if Wide and Full are the same thing when applied to 4:3 material? I know they are different selections, but the effect appears to be identical. Also, the manual says Cinema is for 14:9 material, which implies that it is merely a half-step zoom ("full" Zoom being for 12:9, aka 4:3, material), however the pictures show that Cinema actually does impose a non-linear stretch. If it were a true 14:9 zoom there would be grey side bars that would be half the width of the normal 4:3 with sidebars.

I have a question about the cable card. When comcast came to install the card, it would not complete a full up load of channels; the card would only set-up 1-100 and stop. any advice on what the tech was doing wrong?

Also, is there any way to turn off the tv guide function. I have to use the cable box remote to trun on the tv and a the pio remote to turn off the tv guide.

I have a question about the cable card. When comcast came to install the card, it would not complete a full up load of channels; the card would only set-up 1-100 and stop. any advice on what the tech was doing wrong?

Also, is there any way to turn off the tv guide function. I have to use the cable box remote to trun on the tv and a the pio remote to turn off the tv guide.

I'd also like to know more about Cable Card option from anyone willing to chime in with their experience and suggestions.


From what I read on this thread and implemented myself during initial set-up of my 4360 was to set the zip code to all zeros. This should deactivate the tv guide. On another subject it would be nice is to delete unwanted channels after auto scan completion. According to Pioneer I have to go through the "favorites" set-up to mimick this. Or go back and set every channel manually excluding the ones I don't want.

i read an article in a magazine that commented on the use of HDMI 1.3 in the Playstation 3, and it claimed this is the first version of HDMI to support 1080p, is this true?

if so, can a display with an earlier version of HDMI like the new pioneer 1080p plasma accept a 1080p signal from a source component with HDMI 1.3?

also, was wondering what refresh rate to specify for your graphics card in a pc to send to the pioneer 5060 via VGA?

thanks

In response to the posts about cable cards. I used the box for the first week when I got my 5060 and then had the tech come install a card. I am no expert but I didn't notice any difference in PQ. However, the channels changed much quicker when surfing and it saved me about 8$ a month. I do miss the channel listings as TVGOS only works about 2 of 7 days, but weighing the pro's and con's I think the card is a better option.

In response to the posts about cable cards. I used the box for the first week when I got my 5060 and then had the tech come install a card. I am no expert but I didn't notice any difference in PQ. However, the channels changed much quicker when surfing and it saved me about 8$ a month. I do miss the channel listings as TVGOS only works about 2 of 7 days, but weighing the pro's and con's I think the card is a better option.

Thanks for the helpful response... faster channel changes, hmmm... It seems I remember this years ago when I first had cable installed some 20 years ago and used their box. I did not like the lag then and I probably will not like it now. I appreciate that helpful information indeed.

I have a Sony Combo DVD/VHS hooked up to the 5060 tuner.
At first viewing in Dec 05, the pictures on both DVD and VCR were terrrific. We don't watch much of that media. When the grandkids wanted to watch movies we noticed recently that basically there was no color except a green hue. We switched out the VCR and got the same results, ruling out the VCR. Could it be the component cables or has the tuner gone bad?
Jacker


Reposting this message, since I didn't get a reply. I assume folks are playing DVD on their Pio 5060s. Would appreciate any feedback on trouble with color and/or any thoughts on why I'm seeing no color with only green hues? Thanks. Jacker

In order to change from 'user' to 'game' you have to access the menu. I use Input 4 (the component inputs on the front of the media receiver) and the TV automatically remembers that I was in 'game' mode last time so when I press "Play Game" on the Harmony it automatically changes to that Input, chanes the audio input on my receiver and turns on my PS2.

You might be able to go into the setup of the device for the harmony remote and tell it to change the display mode, but personally I havent had a need to do that so I am not exactly sure how that works. Just like on the regular remote for the Pio, if you want to change display modes you have to access the menu.
Question about the Harmony 880 remote:

Can you program the remote to disable the hdmi input so that you can play something via component on the 5060 (using the same input) and also have it change the picture settings from "user" to "game"?

I'm tired of having to manualy disable the hdmi just to use the component input and this would make things som much easier.

Reposting this message, since I didn't get a reply. I assume folks are playing DVD on their Pio 5060s. Would appreciate any feedback on trouble with color and/or any thoughts on why I'm seeing no color with only green hues? Thanks. Jacker


Check the cables to see if they are securely attached to your plasma and dvd/vcr. Also check to make sure the green and blue component cables are not attached backwards.

pio customer service sucks my tv still flickers and today i turned it on no picture just sound? wth!? i had to do a hard restart in order to get picture back

For those of you that have had your display for awhile now, do you notice the slight ripple of what I guess is the pure filter? When watching scenes that are brightly lit it's as if there is a slight SSE/sheen (for me at least), or maybe I see that more prominently since I sit about 8' away from it (1130).

Ok so I own a 4360, and have a question about IR. I had some following a Final Fantasty 45 min session, but found out it was on dynamic mode. Ive put the USER settings on around 25 contrast. About how many hours in will I be able to play games without getting IR?

Hey kids... had my first scare with image retention yesterday on my 1130. It seems that my wife fell asleep the night before and left the panel and satellite receiver on. At approximately 3 AM, the Dish Network screen-saver popped on and promptly froze in the middle of my screen. I estimate that this image was static on the screen from 3 AM until, at least, 7 AM. So, I had a static high contrast white logo on my screen for 4 hours. Last night, I arrived home and was shocked at how bad the IR was. I immediately assumed the worst, but simply watching less than 30 mintes of HD programming on the Discovery HD channel completely erased the IR. So, while I won't go so far as to say that burn in is impossible on these Pioneer panels, it seems pretty obvious to me that you have to really do something extreme to cause permanent burn in. I should also note that my panel has been professionally ISF calibrated, so having proper contrast and brightness settings are probably a big help in my specific case.

With that being said, I still disabled the screen saver in my satellite receiver and activated the sleep timer on the panel. You can never be too safe...

Hey kids... had my first scare with image retention yesterday on my 1130. It seems that my wife fell asleep the night before and left the panel and satellite receiver on. At approximately 3 AM, the Dish Network screen-saver popped on and promptly froze in the middle of my screen. I estimate that this image was static on the screen from 3 AM until, at least, 7 AM. So, I had a static high contrast white logo on my screen for 4 hours. Last night, I arrived home and was shocked at how bad the IR was. I immediately assumed the worst, but simply watching less than 30 mintes of HD programming on the Discovery HD channel completely erased the IR. So, while I won't go so far as to say that burn in is impossible on these Pioneer panels, it seems pretty obvious to me that you have to really do something extreme to cause permanent burn in. I should also note that my panel has been professionally ISF calibrated, so having proper contrast and brightness settings are probably a big help in my specific case.

With that being said, I still disabled the screen saver in my satellite receiver and activated the sleep timer on the panel. You can never be too safe...

Another big variable is the total hours on your display at the time of such an incident...
If you have over 1000 hours you'll probably fair better then some one with under 200 hours...

What are your total hours at this point?

Another big variable is the total hours on your display at the time of such an incident...
If you have over 1000 hours you'll probably fair better then some one with under 200 hours...

What are your total hours at this point?

I've got to have well over 1000 by now. I've had the panel since February and was showing just over 600 hours when I had the ISF calibration done in May.

drsiebling,

I got both of my Elites ISF calibrated at no charge thru a close friend of mine. My final settings are slightly different than the ones you gave me. These Elite 1130s are the most accurate plasmas out there once they are calibrated. Not even the Panasonic commercial series can compare.

D-Nice,

Seems your good with settings for 1130's Do you have settings for a 4360? Also, any suggestions about how long in I can begin playing PS2/360 without getting IR? Thanks.

Link to your new settings? :x:

I am using the previous settings you gave me and it looks good. A bit dark while watching certain programming during the day, but HD looks amazing. At night the picture is so crisp, and vivid, it still amazes me every time I watch it.

Also just picked up a component cable for my PS2. I am hoping it improves the PQ over just the single video input that I am using now. Do you game on your system? If so, I would definitely be interested in seeing your game settings.

I want to get my Elite ISF calibrated, but havent found a reputable local tech yet. Any recommendations for an ISF tech in the San Francisco Bay area?

Sorry for asking for so much, but you always have the answers I am looking for.

Thanks in advance. :)
drsiebling,

I got both of my Elites ISF calibrated at no charge thru a close friend of mine. My final settings are slightly different than the ones you gave me. These Elite 1130s are the most accurate plasmas out there once they are calibrated. Not even the Panasonic commercial series can compare.

Alright so I just found out my panel hours are at 2600, and I'm still getting IR. Whats the deal?? Can someone let me know?

Just noticed a "scuff" scratch (gray appearance) on the bezel of my 1130. About 1.5 " long, 1/8" wide. Have had set since April and just saw it now, so obviously not a biggie. But does anyone have any experience in dealing with such a mark? I tried appliance cleaner, and it did clean up some haze, but didn't do much much for the scratch.

TIA
SrPicman

Alright so I just found out my panel hours are at 2600, and I'm still getting IR. Whats the deal?? Can someone let me know?

One thing to check - does your panel actually have 2600 hours, or is that the time your media receiver has been on?

Many factors can lead to IR. You mentioned your panel was on Dynamic earlier - it it has been on that the entire time, then that could be causing it. If it is truly at 2600, you are long past the break in stage.

Best advice would be to keep the contrast below 30, set power save to 2, and vary your viewing. Depending on the game (how much static information, HUD displays, etc), you should be able to go for an hour or two. Follow it up with full screen movies or TV to minimize IR.

drsiebling,

I got both of my Elites ISF calibrated at no charge thru a close friend of mine. My final settings are slightly different than the ones you gave me. These Elite 1130s are the most accurate plasmas out there once they are calibrated. Not even the Panasonic commercial series can compare.

I agree completely! They really are amazing, aren't they? Whenever I pass a Panny in a store I just chuckle... the uninformed Panasonic fanboys don't know what they are missing! I keep getting the slight desire to go take a look at the new 1080P model, but I just can't see the point... my 1130 is going to be very hard to beat and I hear that the new model isn't handling black levels as well.

I'd rather have an extremely accurate plasma than a slightly higher resolution panel that doesn't deliver on the picture accuracy.

One thing to check - does your panel actually have 2600 hours, or is that the time your media receiver has been on?

Many factors can lead to IR. You mentioned your panel was on Dynamic earlier - it it has been on that the entire time, then that could be causing it. If it is truly at 2600, you are long past the break in stage.

Best advice would be to keep the contrast below 30, set power save to 2, and vary your viewing. Depending on the game (how much static information, HUD displays, etc), you should be able to go for an hour or two. Follow it up with full screen movies or TV to minimize IR.

I checked my actual panel hours, and it was at 2603H and 7M. I made sure all of my other inputs prior to plugging in my PS2 were all on user. After i found out that the input 3 was on dynamic (was around 30 minutes while playing Final Fantasty X during boss fight, so HUDS were on entire time) I noticed the IR right away and switched it to SD signal on User settings (30 contrast, Power Save 2 settings). Then i looped a dvd for a few hours, and it was gone . I also noticed slight IR on 360 Dashboard after seriously no more than 2 minutes being static. I'm within the 30 day return period, so should I be looking at LCD's or what?

Note: This was an open item at BB when I purchased it. I decided to give it a go to see what would happen. From the 29th of July to yesterday Iv'e played games with HUD with no problem. Maybe Ir was there and i did'nt notice them either, who knows...because I can only see it on bright white screens. My question is though, because I don't know what settings BB had them on, and I've only put maybe 90 hours on the panel myself, should I return it for the 2200 I bought it for, or try to weather the storm and deal with it? I mean if I keep on getting this IR, is it going to turn into burn-in eventually?

I know its alot of questions, but if you and others could help out it would GREATLY be appreciated.

Those are some of the exact reasons why I bought the 1130. I knew what I was getting and boy did I want it! :D

I am extremely happy with my purchase :)
I agree completely! They really are amazing, aren't they? Whenever I pass a Panny in a store I just chuckle... the uninformed Panasonic fanboys don't know what they are missing! I keep getting the slight desire to go take a look at the new 1080P model, but I just can't see the point... my 1130 is going to be very hard to beat and I hear that the new model isn't handling black levels as well.

I'd rather have an extremely accurate plasma than a slightly higher resolution panel that doesn't deliver on the picture accuracy.

D-Nice,

Seems your good with settings for 1130's Do you have settings for a 4360? Also, any suggestions about how long in I can begin playing PS2/360 without getting IR? Thanks.

AV Selection: User
Contrast: 30
Brightness: +1
Color: -11
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -8

Pro Adjust
Pure Cinema: ADV

Color Detail
Color Temp: Low
Energy Save: Save2

I don't know how long you can play games without IR as I don't play games on my 1130s.

I checked my actual panel hours, and it was at 2603H and 7M. I made sure all of my other inputs prior to plugging in my PS2 were all on user. After i found out that the input 3 was on dynamic (was around 30 minutes while playing Final Fantasty X during boss fight, so HUDS were on entire time) I noticed the IR right away and switched it to SD signal on User settings (30 contrast, Power Save 2 settings). Then i looped a dvd for a few hours, and it was gone . I also noticed slight IR on 360 Dashboard after seriously no more than 2 minutes being static. I'm within the 30 day return period, so should I be looking at LCD's or what?

Note: This was an open item at BB when I purchased it. I decided to give it a go to see what would happen. From the 29th of July to yesterday Iv'e played games with HUD with no problem. Maybe Ir was there and i did'nt notice them either, who knows...because I can only see it on bright white screens. My question is though, because I don't know what settings BB had them on, and I've only put maybe 90 hours on the panel myself, should I return it for the 2200 I bought it for, or try to weather the storm and deal with it? I mean if I keep on getting this IR, is it going to turn into burn-in eventually?

I know its alot of questions, but if you and others could help out it would GREATLY be appreciated.

Any takers would be nice. I don't want to be that annoying newbie but someone has to do it :)

I checked my actual panel hours, and it was at 2603H and 7M. I made sure all of my other inputs prior to plugging in my PS2 were all on user. After i found out that the input 3 was on dynamic (was around 30 minutes while playing Final Fantasty X during boss fight, so HUDS were on entire time) I noticed the IR right away and switched it to SD signal on User settings (30 contrast, Power Save 2 settings). Then i looped a dvd for a few hours, and it was gone . I also noticed slight IR on 360 Dashboard after seriously no more than 2 minutes being static. I'm within the 30 day return period, so should I be looking at LCD's or what?

Note: This was an open item at BB when I purchased it. I decided to give it a go to see what would happen. From the 29th of July to yesterday Iv'e played games with HUD with no problem. Maybe Ir was there and i did'nt notice them either, who knows...because I can only see it on bright white screens. My question is though, because I don't know what settings BB had them on, and I've only put maybe 90 hours on the panel myself, should I return it for the 2200 I bought it for, or try to weather the storm and deal with it? I mean if I keep on getting this IR, is it going to turn into burn-in eventually?

I know its alot of questions, but if you and others could help out it would GREATLY be appreciated.

I think you hit the nail on the head. Most displays in stores are in Dynamic mode - not just Pioneers. They want the picture to reach out and grab the customers. I'm sure they didn't break in the sets properly, so IR would be more common.

As you'll see if you search this and other plasma threads, burn in is not a problem for properly broken in quality plasma like the Pios. Any IR is usually temporary and can be washed away. All monitors, including CRTs, are subject to it if they are abused like I'm sure the sets in stores like BB are.

Should you take it back? Personally I'd prefer to have a new one, but if the cost difference is worth the risk, you still have the Pio warranty backing you up if it gets too bad. Although I'm not sure how much they cover IR/burn in.

If you decide to keep it, just use the common sense steps you'll find all over this thread. Remember, IR is temporary, burn in is not. If your IR is going away quickly after games, you are probably OK.

Good lesson for those who don't think breaking in a set is important. 2000+ Dynamic hours on a set not broken in leads to increased IR.

Hi all,

I'm using an external video processor with a 5060HD. I had the system ISF calibrated, and the calibrater of course recommended sending native resolution (1280x768) to the panel (I currently send it 720P). Attempts to pass native resolution to the Media Receiver were all unsuccessful (as also suggested in the forums).

So I have to wonder if I can attach the video processor directly to the 5060 panel and bypass the Media Receiver. I'm assuming the Media Receiver provides input management and video processing while the power control, video menus, etc. are inside the panel.

Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

I am also in canada - Toronto
I had a hell of time getting that stand back in May - had to drive to a seperate BB location 100 kms away from the one I ordred from, as they couldn't get it in stock.
You'll probably be able to find one on ebay though.


How long ago did you get the new media receiver?
and why did you have to have it replaced?
I am sure if (when) mine breaks down, there will be no way to get a new one as that feature has been discontinued, so we'll have to just replace the whole screen with a newer generation that doesn't include the MR - that sucks.

I got the new MR about 3 weeks ago. The original one would only accept video via the component inputs on input 1 (no S-video, coax, etc) Apparently it is supposed to set itself to the "best" input available, and the MR wouldn't change over. I was on the phone with the tech guy in TO for about half an hour, turning options on and off in the picture setup until he agreed with me that the MR was faulty.

When Visions (the retailer) tried to get me a new MR, they told me that this problem was quite prevelent. But the new one works just fine.

Now.........if I could just get that TS10 from SF to Winnipeg.

I think you hit the nail on the head. Most displays in stores are in Dynamic mode - not just Pioneers. They want the picture to reach out and grab the customers. I'm sure they didn't break in the sets properly, so IR would be more common.

As you'll see if you search this and other plasma threads, burn in is not a problem for properly broken in quality plasma like the Pios. Any IR is usually temporary and can be washed away. All monitors, including CRTs, are subject to it if they are abused like I'm sure the sets in stores like BB are.

Should you take it back? Personally I'd prefer to have a new one, but if the cost difference is worth the risk, you still have the Pio warranty backing you up if it gets too bad. Although I'm not sure how much they cover IR/burn in.

If you decide to keep it, just use the common sense steps you'll find all over this thread. Remember, IR is temporary, burn in is not. If your IR is going away quickly after games, you are probably OK.

Good lesson for those who don't think breaking in a set is important. 2000+ Dynamic hours on a set not broken in leads to increased IR.

Well after another episode with IR (my gf had it on tlc for 5 minutes, the tlc logo was still there even after 2 hrs of dvd looping) i decided to take it back. BB could not offer me a brand new one, seeing that the one I had was an open box item. So I will be in the market for a future Pioneer release, but until then its a trusty HD CRT for me. Thanks for the help.

Note to all: BREAK IN YOUR SETS, and don't buy open box item. This 2000 plus hours in DYNAMIC lead to me getting IR after only minutes of viewing. If you treat these things right, they will treat you right. Simple as that.

After many months of trying to convince myself to buy something else, all roads led back to the 1130. I swear I've spent more hours looking at every other TV from $1400 to $10K than I have watching my own at home. I really wanted to fall in love with the 46"XBR2 or 3, but the video noise when the picture moved was just too annoying. They were willing to make me a great deal on the FHD1, but it was still substantially more than what i paid for the 1130 and at my viewing distance I just couldn't see that much of a difference.

Got a fantastic deal and it is coming on Tuesday. Thanks for all of your help in this both agonizing and fun decision.

One last question (for now, at least)-- should I get an upconverting DVD and, if so, what would be best for under $400? I know this question is discussed elsewhere, but I've yet to see someone make their claims directly in relation to the 1130. I know the processing is pretty good in the 1130, so I wasn't sure if it would be a waste. My old (4 years) Onkyo progressive scan seems to have died, so I need to get something anyway. Just not sure if I should get something cheap until the HD-DVD wars die down, something mid range, or spend a bit more.

Again, thanks for all of your help. Can't wait to put in D-Nice's break-in settings!

Check classifieds for a slightly used Elite 59 or 79AVi or a new Oppo 970 or 971 for way less than your budget.

Cheers,
TP.

One last question (for now, at least)-- should I get an upconverting DVD and, if so, what would be best for under $400? I know this question is discussed elsewhere, but I've yet to see someone make their claims directly in relation to the 1130. I know the processing is pretty good in the 1130, so I wasn't sure if it would be a waste. My old (4 years) Onkyo progressive scan seems to have died, so I need to get something anyway. Just not sure if I should get something cheap until the HD-DVD wars die down, something mid range, or spend a bit more.

Again, thanks for all of your help. Can't wait to put in D-Nice's break-in settings!

After many months of trying to convince myself to buy something else, all roads led back to the 1130. I swear I've spent more hours looking at every other TV from $1400 to $10K than I have watching my own at home. I really wanted to fall in love with the 46"XBR2 or 3, but the video noise when the picture moved was just too annoying. They were willing to make me a great deal on the FHD1, but it was still substantially more than what i paid for the 1130 and at my viewing distance I just couldn't see that much of a difference.

Got a fantastic deal and it is coming on Tuesday. Thanks for all of your help in this both agonizing and fun decision.

One last question (for now, at least)-- should I get an upconverting DVD and, if so, what would be best for under $400? I know this question is discussed elsewhere, but I've yet to see someone make their claims directly in relation to the 1130. I know the processing is pretty good in the 1130, so I wasn't sure if it would be a waste. My old (4 years) Onkyo progressive scan seems to have died, so I need to get something anyway. Just not sure if I should get something cheap until the HD-DVD wars die down, something mid range, or spend a bit more.

Again, thanks for all of your help. Can't wait to put in D-Nice's break-in settings!

I would difinitely get the OPPO 970! At 480i HDMI into the Pio 1130, it can't be beat (IMHO).

LIY

I am ready to buy the pro1410hd, I am going to mount it on a wall that is 12.5 feet wide.
Any 1410 users out there for suggestions. I am also looking at the artisan matching speakers.
Panel for 6500 good price for an old panel.

Hey guys, whats the differance between the 60 series and the 70 series?

My 1130 has an inch-wide blue/green band running from top to bottom just left of center. It appears on any input, at first I thought it was just comcast, but it's there on any source. Anyone seen or heard of this before? Is Pioneer's service any good?

My 1130 has an inch-wide blue/green band running from top to bottom just left of center. It appears on any input, at first I thought it was just comcast, but it's there on any source. Anyone seen or heard of this before? Is Pioneer's service any good?

Never heard of it, however it's best you contact Pioneer for a service call.

Hey guys, whats the differance between the 60 series and the 70 series?

70 series:
(main feature changes that I know of - I am sure there are others)

- No externa media receiver (big negative in my opinion)
- Using all new glass (NEC apparently ?) new sizes are 42 inch and 50 inch
(no more 43")
- 50 inch has slightly more horizontal res
- Built in speakers on bottom, and are NOT removable on 42"
(and I think the same with 50"?)
- apparently better blacks, but I haven't heard any definitive confirmations on that.

I have a 4360 and bought it specifically because the 70 series announced features didn't appeal to me - price dropped as the xx60s were discontinued, so it was a no brainer.
(I wanted the seperate media receiver, and have no interest in built in speakers
I am using separate 5.1 receiver and wall mounted speakers)

I don't think you'll be able to find any xx60s though
- they are all pretty much out of stock everywhere aren't they?

70 series:

- No externa media receiver (big negative in my opinion)
- Using all new glass (NEC apparently ?) new sizes are 42 inch and 50 inch
(no more 43")
- 50 inch has slightly more horizontal res
- Built in speakers on bottom, and are NOT removable on 42"
(and I think the same with 50"?)
- apparently better blacks, but I haven't heard any definitive confirmations on that.

I have a 4360 and bought it specifically because the 70 series announced features didn't appeal to me - price dropped as the xx60s were discontinued, so it was a no brainer.
(I wanted the seperate media receiver, and have no interest in built in speakers
I am using separate 5.1 receiver and wall mounted speakers)

I don't think you'll be able to find any xx60s though
- they are all pretty much out of stock everywhere aren't they?

I have a 4360 and bought it specifically because the 70 series announced features didn't appeal to me - price dropped as the xx60s were discontinued, so it was a no brainer.

Same here...Picked up a 4360 before stocks dwindled. Got a May 2006 build, must have been one of the last off production line. Absolutely beautiful PQ and outward beauty.

Same here...Picked up a 4360 before stocks dwindled. Got a May 2006 build, must have been one of the last off production line. Absolutely beautiful PQ and outward beauty.

how do you know when yours was built?
is there a date on it somehere?
I bought my 4360 in mid May 2006, but have no idea how long it was in the warehouse before I got it.

Well after another episode with IR (my gf had it on tlc for 5 minutes, the tlc logo was still there even after 2 hrs of dvd looping) i decided to take it back. BB could not offer me a brand new one, seeing that the one I had was an open box item. So I will be in the market for a future Pioneer release, but until then its a trusty HD CRT for me. Thanks for the help.

Note to all: BREAK IN YOUR SETS, and don't buy open box item. This 2000 plus hours in DYNAMIC lead to me getting IR after only minutes of viewing. If you treat these things right, they will treat you right. Simple as that.

I know you didn't mean or want to, but thanks for sharing your experience, because you definitely helped to show others the importance of the break in period. The 7g thread is filled with those who think it is unnecessary; maybe you should post about your experience there.

Anyway, thanks for sharing, and I'm sure you'll be happier with your new toy once you get it. Don't shy away from Pioneer though; you won't be disappointed with a new model.

- Built in speakers on bottom, and are NOT removable on 42"
(and I think the same with 50"?)


The speaker is removable on the 50", just not the 42".

from a notebook PC, will VGA at native rate or HDMI generally give better PQ? I understand VGA is analogue, so just wondering if that negates the advantages of sending native rate.

thanks, ben

how do you know when yours was built?
is there a date on it somehere?
I bought my 4360 in mid May 2006, but have no idea how long it was in the warehouse before I got it.

On the back panel of the display itself right by the serial number. I didnt check the media box on its build date.

On the back panel of the display itself right by the serial number. I didnt check the media box on its build date.

Our 1130 has a May build, but the media receiver has a February build.

On the back panel of the display itself right by the serial number. I didnt check the media box on its build date.

ok cool - my display says MAR 2006 - I didn't check the MR though...

Schteevie, what 5.1 receiver are you using? Beginning to look for one now, nothing over powering as its for a bedroom. Do you still use the 4360 speaker system for news, etc?

Same with mine :)
Our 1130 has a May build, but the media receiver has a February build.

Our 1130 has a May build, but the media receiver has a February build.

Be interesting to see if a June or July build shows up here. I wouldn't think keeping 2 assembly lines open unless of course to use up the glass and MRs

Be interesting to see if a June or July build shows up here. I wouldn't think keeping 2 assembly lines open unless of course to use up the glass and MRs

Yea, we were hoping for a June since we bought it in July, but I was happy with the May. Interesting the gap with the MR though.

Where is the 1130 pro official thread?
Just bought onr fir $4500, is this a good price?

I've heard of the "clayface" effect on a close-up of someone's face during a movie, but did anyone notice a similar effect during the MNF preseason game this evening? I guess it could have been the actual turf, but during the game I was noticing large blocks of the same green color on the playing surface, similar to "clayface"...

(I have a broken-in 4360, SciAtlanta cable box and HDMI connection)

Looks like a pretty good deal if from an authorized dlr. Congrats & sit back and enjoy.

Cheers,
TP.

Where is the 1130 pro official thread?
Just bought onr fir $4500, is this a good price?

Where is the 1130 pro official thread?
Just bought onr fir $xxxx, is this a good price?

I don't think we are supposed to post anything besides MSRP so you know, but yea, that's a pretty good price. As far as I know, this is the official thread. Hopefully you got from an authorized dealer so the warranty is intact.

There are some good break in settings in this thread - just search. D-Nice has some really nice ones for SA cable boxes. Make sure that you break in properly, use power save 2 mode, and keep the contrast and brightness down for the first 100-200 hours of viewing to ensure years of trouble free viewing.

Enjoy your new toy, and welcome to the club!

Does the Power Option stay in save2 even after the break-in period?

I've heard of the "clayface" effect on a close-up of someone's face during a movie, but did anyone notice a similar effect during the MNF preseason game this evening? I guess it could have been the actual turf, but during the game I was noticing large blocks of the same green color on the playing surface, similar to "clayface"...

(I have a broken-in 4360, SciAtlanta cable box and HDMI connection)

I saw it too. It was macroblocking. It is caused by an overly compressed signal..

Has anyone even seen a June build?

Seems like most production stopped in May as I bought my 1130 in July as well and have a May build date with a Feb MR build date.
Yea, we were hoping for a June since we bought it in July, but I was happy with the May. Interesting the gap with the MR though.

Does the Power Option stay in save2 even after the break-in period?

I have upped my contrast, but am pretty happy with the image, so I have left it on Save2 - I figure it is better for the TV, saves power, reduces heat, and if you like the PQ - why not leave it?

I saw it too. It was macroblocking. It is caused by an overly compressed signal..

Alright, good to hear it's not a fault of the panel.

I'm on TWC in Charlotte, which is apparently bandwidth-starved, so that explanation makes sense...

Alright, good to hear it's not a fault of the panel.

I'm on TWC in Charlotte, which is apparently bandwidth-starved, so that explanation makes sense...


TWC in Columbia here.

What a fantastic panel!!

Just got the 1130 delivered and set up today and I couldn't be more happy. The picture on all channels (from 2 to 602) is fantastic no matter what the original source (using Comcast digital cable with DVR and HD). Thank you D-Nice for the excellent recommendations regarding break-in settings. I find them totally watchable. The glare I was worried about is virtually nil. I'm even pleased with the standard speakers for regular viewing, although I'll be using surround system for movies and such.

I noticed a few people chatting about build dates. For mine the panel was June2006, and the MR was May2006.

Once again, thank you all for the tremendously useful and accurate recommendations regarding this set. I know that all is in the eye of the beholder when it comes to choosing among technologies and manufacturers, but this one is definitely right for me.

My settings are currently set to D-Nice's post beak-in settings but I'm noticing that television programming tends to be overly dark. Also, the blacks in the scenes have zero detail. Last night I was watching According to Jim and there was a scene where they show a Minister wearing a black vest under a black jacket but on my set the two just blended together as one garment.

Currently, my STB (SA3250) is connected via Component to a VSX-74TXVi which outputs via HDMI to the PRO-1130HD.

What can I do or change to make the picture lighter and give the blacks detail?

Angelo Rizzo

AV Selection: User
Contrast: 30
Brightness: +1
Color: -11
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -8

Pro Adjust
Pure Cinema: ADV

Color Detail
Color Temp: Low
Energy Save: Save2

I don't know how long you can play games without IR as I don't play games on my 1130s.


Are these pre or post break-in settings? I've had my 4360 since Feb and followed your original break in settings from 6 months ago. i don't think i did much besides bump the contrast from 25 to 30 and turn the power save off. (can't see much difference between save 1 and off) can you post a quick list with the post settings? i see you didnt' list anything for CTI or the other settings besides PureCinema. what should those be set to? I'm sure you're tired of posting settings, but this thread hass gotten so huge, it's a chore to search through 160+ pages. thanks!

....i really need to get this thing ISF cal'd, but I may wait until I switch to FiOS.

Are these pre or post break-in settings? I've had my 4360 since Feb and followed your original break in settings from 6 months ago. i don't think i did much besides bump the contrast from 25 to 30 and turn the power save off. (can't see much difference between save 1 and off) can you post a quick list with the post settings? i see you didnt' list anything for CTI or the other settings besides PureCinema. what should those be set to? I'm sure you're tired of posting settings, but this thread hass gotten so huge, it's a chore to search through 160+ pages. thanks!

....i really need to get this thing ISF cal'd, but I may wait until I switch to FiOS.

There is no such thing as post-breakin settings ;) Set them to your liking.