Wondering if anyone has seen this problem: The 1130 worked fine yesterday; today, the Media Receiver has a steady red light, the plasma display has a flashing blue light. Using either the remote or pressing the button on the MR, the light on the MR will momentarily turn blue, then switch back to red, with the plasma returning to a flashing blue. I can't get the plasma LED to go red at any time. I tried unplugging both units for awhile, to no avail. No picture at any time.

It's worked fine for months, until now.

Any ideas?

Thanks, Vic

Check your cables

Check your cables

Did that -- replugged all the cables. Once the power cords were reconnected, both blue LEDs lit momentarily steady, then, a few seconds later, the plasma goes back to flashing blue (groups of 3 -- looks like a code), and the MR goes back to steady red. I can also hear the relay(s) in the plasma energize (like it's coming on) then immediately drop out. I get the same result each time the power button on the MR is pressed. Interestingly, when the power cord to the MR is disconnected, the plasma then shows a flashing red -- it goes back to the flashing blue once the MR is repowered.

It appears to be time to check out the quality of the warranty service -- no HD football for me this weekend....bummer.

Vic

Thought I had the magic setup. Had the Pro-1130 setup with picture size set to AUTO and the 4:3 mode set to WIDE in the menus. Then the SA8300 was set to pass fixed 1080i only over HDMI with no AUTO/DVI-HDMI. By switching the channel to HD material, I would get the panel to display as FULL and then when I switch to SD channels, I'd get the panel to display as WIDE. This was perfect for three months and I could feel the love :p . Now all of a sudden, with the same settings, the panel displays both SD and HD channels with the same WIDE or FULL aspect ratio. If I use the 1130 remote to make the 4:3 material (SD channels) WIDE, then I get WIDE for the HD channels as well. If I use the 1130 remote and set the HD material back to FULL, then I get SD in FULL as well. It appears as though the MR is not auto sensing 4:3 material any longer. I am using HDMI as the input on Input 3 (also have a DVD player with component inputs on Input 1). This now causes me to use two remotes - one to change cable channels and one to change aspect ratios. How do I get it back the way it was and do you think the auto 4:3 sense on the 1130 is busted? I would be very grateful for any response as it took me some time to word this question so it made sense and I'm beginning to lose the love! :(

I am still here :hs:

Hey you ever get yours calibrated? I am using D Nices settings and the picture looks outstanding while watching hd broadcasts :bowdown:
wow...I'm glad this thread is alive still!! :o

many of the brothers left us for the 1140 and FHD-1 :(

Thought I had the magic setup. Had the Pro-1130 setup with picture size set to AUTO and the 4:3 mode set to WIDE in the menus. Then the SA8300 was set to pass fixed 1080i only over HDMI with no AUTO/DVI-HDMI. By switching the channel to HD material, I would get the panel to display as FULL and then when I switch to SD channels, I'd get the panel to display as WIDE. This was perfect for three months and I could feel the love :p . Now all of a sudden, with the same settings, the panel displays both SD and HD channels with the same WIDE or FULL aspect ratio. If I use the 1130 remote to make the 4:3 material (SD channels) WIDE, then I get WIDE for the HD channels as well. If I use the 1130 remote and set the HD material back to FULL, then I get SD in FULL as well. It appears as though the MR is not auto sensing 4:3 material any longer. I am using HDMI as the input on Input 3 (also have a DVD player with component inputs on Input 1). This now causes me to use two remotes - one to change cable channels and one to change aspect ratios. How do I get it back the way it was and do you think the auto 4:3 sense on the 1130 is busted? I would be very grateful for any response as it took me some time to word this question so it made sense and I'm beginning to lose the love! :(

If it makes you feel any better, I've NEVER been able to get my 1130HD to auto-detect 4:3 SD material coming out of my D* HR10-250. My unit would operate the same way as you describe. I've turned off Auto Detect and use "Cinema" for 480i input on the SAT/DVR input (Input 3 for me). The set reverts to "Full" whenever I switch to 720p or 1080i output from the D* box. My DVD player outputs 480i via HDMI to Input 1 on my 1130HD and I have it set to Full, therefore I have to manually change the Aspect Ration anytime I'm watching 4:3 content on a DVD (or I can just leave it in "Full").

I hope someone offers a solution as I'd like to use 4:3 Auto Detect.

I'm sure the 1130 knows it's 4:3 material beacuse it puts up the gray side bars. So why doesn't it go to WIDE mode any more? Cinema mode is not selectable with my settings - not sure if it's because the input is HDMI or if only 1080i is enabled. Could the problem lie with the SA8300 some how? Why would your 1130 have never detected 4:3 if you feed it 4:3?

How does anyone comparison shop for TV's? The Magnolias in my area have the Pio 1140 on display, but with crappy feeds. Harvey has good feeds but only has the new Pio 1080p monitor hooked up. It feels like the old days of trying to shop for stereo equipment, only more expensive.

i agree. the local BB just got a Magnolia built. All these beautiful sets and the most horrible feed i've ever seen. the people that aren't in the know about HDTV's can't seriously think they're making a good purchase. They had a decent feed when i was looking at the 43/5060's, but damn if the 42/5070's look horrible. why the change?

Thought I had the magic setup. Had the Pro-1130 setup with picture size set to AUTO and the 4:3 mode set to WIDE in the menus. Then the SA8300 was set to pass fixed 1080i only over HDMI with no AUTO/DVI-HDMI. By switching the channel to HD material, I would get the panel to display as FULL and then when I switch to SD channels, I'd get the panel to display as WIDE. This was perfect for three months and I could feel the love :p . Now all of a sudden, with the same settings, the panel displays both SD and HD channels with the same WIDE or FULL aspect ratio. If I use the 1130 remote to make the 4:3 material (SD channels) WIDE, then I get WIDE for the HD channels as well. If I use the 1130 remote and set the HD material back to FULL, then I get SD in FULL as well. It appears as though the MR is not auto sensing 4:3 material any longer. I am using HDMI as the input on Input 3 (also have a DVD player with component inputs on Input 1). This now causes me to use two remotes - one to change cable channels and one to change aspect ratios. How do I get it back the way it was and do you think the auto 4:3 sense on the 1130 is busted? I would be very grateful for any response as it took me some time to word this question so it made sense and I'm beginning to lose the love! :(

My 930HD did the same thing. Worked perfectly for several months, now autodetect doesn't seem to be activated even though it shows that it is in the menu. I'm running a VIP211, HDMI, Input 3 and have been the entire time.

Well then what the heck is the deal? It appears that his may be a defect in the product if enough owners are experiencing the same problem. Has anyone had the problem and got it resolved?

sorry if this has already been posted...

i have an 1130hd pio elite....i fell asleep watching hd, and it seems to be retaining the 4:3 lines on the side...so i have thin white lines on the side...also i have extremely slight remnants of espn logo in the corner...is there anything i can do to reverse this?...both couldnt have been set in for a long time because i have the tv shut off after 3 hours of no use...

also someone told me to get a dvd with a completely white screen and to leave it on for a while...kind of like white wash on a LG....

me personally im worried that this will wash out the picture...is this something that would mess up my tv even more?...

sorry if this has already been posted...

i have an 1130hd pio elite....i fell asleep watching hd, and it seems to be retaining the 4:3 lines on the side...so i have thin white lines on the side...also i have extremely slight remnants of espn logo in the corner...is there anything i can do to reverse this?...both couldnt have been set in for a long time because i have the tv shut off after 3 hours of no use...

also someone told me to get a dvd with a completely white screen and to leave it on for a while...kind of like white wash on a LG....

me personally im worried that this will wash out the picture...is this something that would mess up my tv even more?...

One day my wife watched a lot of 4:3 material without stretching the picture. Also left small white lines on each side (about 2-3 pixel width). It went away but it took awhile, around 10-12 hours of watching regular programming if I remember right.

You can download the plasma break in dvd
http://www.eaprogramming.com/
It cycles through solid colors that fill the entire screen. It works well for removing any image retention, which sounds like that is what you have with the espn logo.

You might make sure you don't have your contrast and brightness settings too high and always change up what programming you are watching.

I have an HTPC hooked up to my 1130. When using Media Center, it covers the entire screen but when running a basic Windows screen it leaves a 1 - 2 inch border on the sides. This has unfortunately left me with white lines on either side.

I have two questions:

1) Is there any way to stretch the Windows screen to fill the whole panel?

and

2) Where can I find an entirely white screen that I can run for a day or so to rid my panel of all the IR?

Angelo

I have an HTPC hooked up to my 1130. When using Media Center, it covers the entire screen but when running a basic Windows screen it leaves a 1 - 2 inch border on the sides. This has unfortunately left me with white lines on either side.

I have two questions:

1) Is there any way to stretch the Windows screen to fill the whole panel?

and

2) Where can I find an entirely white screen that I can run for a day or so to rid my panel of all the IR?

Angelo

1) I don't use a HTPC. Have you tried pressing the screen size button on the remote to see if it will stretch across the entire screen?

2) Down load and run the plasma break in disc from my above post. It cycles throught colors, starting out with white.

I have an HTPC hooked up to my 1130. When using Media Center, it covers the entire screen but when running a basic Windows screen it leaves a 1 - 2 inch border on the sides. This has unfortunately left me with white lines on either side.

I have two questions:

1) Is there any way to stretch the Windows screen to fill the whole panel?
Auto resize the screen like you do with your pc monitor. The exact answer on how to do it depends on the input you're using.

a_ok2me,

My HTPC is connected via HDMI to the Video 1 input of a VSX-74TXVi and then to Input 1 on the 1130.

Ange

a_ok2me,

My HTPC is connected via HDMI to the Video 1 input of a VSX-74TXVi and then to Input 1 on the 1130.

AngeThat makes it a little harder because there is no auto phase/clock adjust unless it's the pc input. You can adjust the horizontal/vertical position in the Menu=>Option=>Position. That won't really help. Also in the same Option menu, see if leaving Auto Size on helps. I believe this applies to wide/full screen etc, so that might not help either. If those options don't work, you probably will have to go into your graphics card control panel to stretch the image.

Thanks very much for your help. I think I'll just turn the contrast down everytime I use Windows. Hopefully that will solve the IR problem.

Ange

Regarding the fan(s) in the media receiver, how long do you think they'll be available for replacement now that the MR is a discontinued feature in the 7th gen displays?

I feel that the thing running 24/7 is going to reduce it's life span.
If I can source the part(s), I am tempted to buy a spare or two to store, for down the road when the original fan(s) gets louder or break down from wear...

Any thoughts on this?

Regarding the fan(s) in the media receiver, how long do you think they'll be available for replacement now that the MR is a discontinued feature in the 7th gen displays?

I feel that the thing running 24/7 is going to reduce it's life span.
If I can source the part(s), I am tempted to buy a spare or two to store, for down the road when the original fan(s) gets louder or break down from wear...

Any thoughts on this?

I've thought about doing that as well. Anyone know where to buy them?

Regarding the fan(s) in the media receiver, how long do you think they'll be available for replacement now that the MR is a discontinued feature in the 7th gen displays?....
Any thoughts on this?

I have the MR and panel powered through a power adapter/surge and I just switch off the power to both before bed. If you watch 4 hrs/day average, you have a potential 6x increase in fan life. The panel may give before the fans.

has anyone had any problems with dead pixels? it looks like I have one pixel that is dead (its a blueish color). anyone have any experience with this?

I have the extended warranty but am not sure if this is covered or not. Guess its time to dig up the warranty contract and hope for the best...

has anyone had any problems with dead pixels? it looks like I have one pixel that is dead (its a blueish color). anyone have any experience with this?

I have the extended warranty but am not sure if this is covered or not. Guess its time to dig up the warranty contract and hope for the best...

Did it all of a sudden get stuck/die or was it that way out of the box? How many hours do you have on your display?

Is it noticable on all programs and channels? I often see a single stuck pixel on HDNet. It is white. Only happens on that channel and from what I can tell, it's a problem with their HD camera because in one shot it will be there and in the same shot from a different angle/differnt camera it isn't... Only HDnet and usually only during interviews.

I'm not sure if the warranty will cover that but please let us know how it all turns out. Good luck!

No, it just showed up recently. Yeah it is one pixel that is a greenish/blueish color. It is dead center, a bit to the left. Its on all channels, I even popped a dvd in just to be sure it was the set and sure enough it showed up when watching the dvd. it is only noticeable on white, yellow, orange and a few of other colors. When a green color is on, or a blue, you cant see it all. When sitting at viewing distance you cant see it, you have to be within 3-4 feet of the set to see it. I posted in another thread and apparently others have the same thing. They normally wont repair/replace the set unless its viewable at the proper viewing distance (~10 feet for me).

I did call Magnolia and they gave me the number of the local extended warranty service manager but I havent called. I dont think they will do anything for one pixel, but it might not hurt to give them a call. If another one shows up I will definitely be calling them.
Did it all of a sudden get stuck/die or was it that way out of the box? How many hours do you have on your display?

Is it noticable on all programs and channels? I often see a single stuck pixel on HDNet. It is white. Only happens on that channel and from what I can tell, it's a problem with their HD camera because in one shot it will be there and in the same shot from a different angle/differnt camera it isn't... Only HDnet and usually only during interviews.

I'm not sure if the warranty will cover that but please let us know how it all turns out. Good luck!

I really like the look of my 5060 with it's attached speakers. However I would like some better speakers than the stock ones that the unit came with.

Has anyone here replaced the speakers that came with the 5060 with something more impressive but kept the same look and feel (in short I guess the same size/color as the existing ones).

From a budget point of view I would like to spend $300 but I could probably double this it needed or perhaps even a little more. I only use the system to watch TV/Movies.

Any insight welcome.

Thanks

I really like the look of my 5060 with it's attached speakers. However I would like some better speakers than the stock ones that the unit came with.

Has anyone here replaced the speakers that came with the 5060 with something more impressive but kept the same look and feel (in short I guess the same size/color as the existing ones).

From a budget point of view I would like to spend $300 but I could probably double this it needed or perhaps even a little more. I only use the system to watch TV/Movies.

Any insight welcome.

Thanks
I have a 5060 and also think it looks good with the attached speakers (I prefer no gap between TV and speakers). I purchased a Yamaha receiver and inexpensive set of surround speakers which work well. If you cannot or do not want to install the rear speakers, an inexpensive home theater system will still be an improvement over the 5060s attached speakers. This way you can still use the 5060s speakers for late-nite viewing, news, etc where the 5060s speakers are sufficient.

DonP

Thanks for the reply, I'll play around with the speakers and see what I can put together.

Does anyone have the specs for the 5060 included speakers. Not sure if I ever saw a frequency range published. I think they were 13W speakers though?

Thanks

Tolax

First time posting in this thread. I have had my 4360HD for about 6 months now, and have slowly started to notice (when looking very hard for it) signs on what seems to be burn-in from my channel guide. I looked through this thread for a good 30 minutes or so, even using the search function, but could not find a recommended setting for this display. For reference, this is how I have my plasma set up now:

Contrast: 36
Brightness: +2
Color: +8
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0

Power Save: Save 1
PureCinema: Standard
Color Temp: Mid
CTI: On

When something particularly harmful is on the screen for a prolonged period (non-transparent logos, scoreboards, etc.), I'll often tune my contrast down to 30, my brightness down to 0, and my sharpness at -4. However, the thing that's giving me the first signs of burn-in is from the channel guide, which is up for seconds at a time...kinda sucks. Are the settings I have mine at what is recommended around here? If not, could someone point me in the direction of a post that might guide me a little better? I appreciate the help.

Cuzzin,

Same exact thing happened to mine (4360) from the 4x3 preview guide on the SA 8300HD DVR. I've had mine since June as well. I had TWC for years and even contacted TWC to see if they had plans on expanding the guide to full screen. Their response was, " We have no future plans to update the guide". So I returned the box and picked up Direct TV HD and the guide is much better. The image burn is slowing fading. So hopefully this will do the trick. Any questions shoot me a PM. Good luck!

Brian

First time posting in this thread. I have had my 4360HD for about 6 months now, and have slowly started to notice (when looking very hard for it) signs on what seems to be burn-in from my channel guide. I looked through this thread for a good 30 minutes or so, even using the search function, but could not find a recommended setting for this display. For reference, this is how I have my plasma set up now:

Contrast: 36
Brightness: +2
Color: +8
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0

Power Save: Save 1
PureCinema: Standard
Color Temp: Mid
CTI: On

When something particularly harmful is on the screen for a prolonged period (non-transparent logos, scoreboards, etc.), I'll often tune my contrast down to 30, my brightness down to 0, and my sharpness at -4. However, the thing that's giving me the first signs of burn-in is from the channel guide, which is up for seconds at a time...kinda sucks. Are the settings I have mine at what is recommended around here? If not, could someone point me in the direction of a post that might guide me a little better? I appreciate the help.

I would keep the contrast down to 30 or below all the time. Also, there is a break in dvd link in this thread somewhere - just search for break in dvd - that will loop continuous full screen colors that can help to was away image retention.

I apologize if this has been asked before, but I can't find anything on this forum.

I have a 4360 and need to move my Media Center further away than my cable allows. I would buy a new cable but they cost $600! Is there a cheaper place to get these? Or is this just a fact of life, high quality cable ain't cheap.

Thanks a lot
--Nick

The control cable is just a straighthrough DFP20. I got mime cable from Pacific Custom cable. You can have it custom made to specific length. The other cable is just a DVI-D dual cable. It works perfectly.

The control cable is just a straighthrough DFP20. I got mime cable from Pacific Custom cable. You can have it custom made to specific length. The other cable is just a DVI-D dual cable. It works perfectly.

Are you certain it's a DVI-D? The store that sold me mine, which works perfectly also, told me it was a DVI-I cable. I'm no expert. I paid $200 for both cables, at 30 meter lengths.

Are you certain it's a DVI-D? The store that sold me mine, which works perfectly also, told me it was a DVI-I cable. I'm no expert. I paid $200 for both cables, at 30 meter lengths.

The different between DVI-D and DVI-I cable is that DVI-I has 4 extra analog pins which are not being used in this case. That explains why both cables will work but they have to be dual link. Dual link DVI enables higher resolutions (1920x1080) and more channels. I always use dual link DVI cable because it is backwards compatible with single link.

Is your 30 meter DVI cable copper? I have not seen any one copper DVI cables longer than 15 meters. Any thing longer is fiber optic. I wonder what the picture quality is with your cable.

The different between DVI-D and DVI-I cable is that DVI-I has 4 extra analog pins which are not being used in this case. That explains why both cables will work but they have to be dual link. Dual link DVI enables higher resolutions (1920x1080) and more channels. I always use dual link DVI cable because it is backwards compatible with single link.

Is your 30 meter DVI cable copper? I have not seen any one copper DVI cables longer than 15 meters. Any thing longer is fiber optic. I wonder what the picture quality is with your cable.


When I had it ISF calibrated this past weekend, the guy said it was as good as any plasma he'd ever seen, so I guess the fiber optic cable (if that's what it is) does not impair the image.

I apologize if this has been asked before, but I can't find anything on this forum.

I have a 4360 and need to move my Media Center further away than my cable allows. I would buy a new cable but they cost $600! Is there a cheaper place to get these? Or is this just a fact of life, high quality cable ain't cheap.

Thanks a lot
--Nick

I have a 4360 as well - haven't needed a longer cable, but I knew I had archived something related to this... So I dug it up.
This is a quote from "D-nice" I think:

"Key Digital and Cable-Comm makes cables for the Pioneer. TVA is currently selling the Key Digital cables FAR cheaper than the OEM Pioneer one and it has a better build quality."

I haven't followed this thread in a long time!

I have a 4360HD and just picked up a cable card today. Does anyone know the correct install procedure for this?

I'm getting a HD TiVo next week and picked up cards for the TiVo and the Pioneer. There is tons of info for the TiVo cable card install in the TiVo forums, but I'm not sure about the Pioneer. Yes, I searched the forum, but didn't see anything. Help if you can, or point me to the right post. Thanks.

I am a bit confused as to how to get PIP to work with my 1130. I am aware of the limitation that it cannot be based on different inputs but rather different antennas (A and B). In my HT setup, I'm using a Moto 6412 cable box with component video connections to a Denon AVR 3806, which then goes HDMI to the 1130. I also have a Denon DVD player that connects HDMI to the AVR, then to the 1130. I'd love to do PIP between the cable signal and the DVD, or between two cable stations. How would I change the hookups to make that happen - or can it be done at all?

Lee

I am a bit confused as to how to get PIP to work with my 1130. I am aware of the limitation that it cannot be based on different inputs but rather different antennas (A and B). In my HT setup, I'm using a Moto 6412 cable box with component video connections to a Denon AVR 3806, which then goes HDMI to the 1130. I also have a Denon DVD player that connects HDMI to the AVR, then to the 1130. I'd love to do PIP between the cable signal and the DVD, or between two cable stations. How would I change the hookups to make that happen - or can it be done at all?

LeeI can't see how the 1130 can differentiate between the DVD and cable if there's only one input into the 1130. Why do you have the cable box going into the 3806? I would connect it directly into the 1130. It's more direct and you also get the PIP that you want.

I have my DVD-3930 directly connected to input1 on the 1130 and 3806 connected to input2. The cable goes into Ant A and B. The only thing I can't get is the 3806 to overlay the OSD when I watch a DVD or TV. I could if I went your route, but then the OSD is a cheap 480i and won't work anyways when watching something non-480i, which is almost everything.

I can't see how the 1130 can differentiate between the DVD and cable if there's only one input into the 1130. Why do you have the cable box going into the 3806? I would connect it directly into the 1130. It's more direct and you also get the PIP that you want.

I have my DVD-3930 directly connected to input1 on the 1130 and 3806 connected to input2. The cable goes into Ant A and B. The only thing I can't get is the 3806 to overlay the OSD when I watch a DVD or TV. I could if I went your route, but then the OSD is a cheap 480i and won't work anyways when watching something non-480i, which is almost everything.

Actually there are 2 inputs to the 1130 from the 3806 - component video for TV and HDMI for DVD. I really like running everything through the AVR if for no other reason than the remote (a URC Aurora MX-950) is programmed to operate the system as it is currently wired. I can certainly rewire the system so that the cable goes directly to the TV as well as the DVD, and reprogram the remote accordingly, but I was hoping to avoid that. I realize the 3806 does no video scaling, but are there other advantages/disadvantages to bypassing the video on the Denon AVR altogether? By the way, I never have a problem bringing up the OSD, even while watching 1080i.

Lee

Hi Guys,

I am very happy to report that I've had my PIO 1130 for almost a year now without any problems. The unit was ISF calibrated after 200 hrs using DNICE's break-in settings. The PQ has been outstanding to date and in my opinion is just as good as any of the new plasmas on the market today.

1130 MR is HDMI connected to a DTV H20-600. Has anyone tried connecting
an outdoor OTA HD antenna directly into the MR unit? What were the results? My goal is to receive OTA local HD channels w/o connecting to the H20-600.

Thanks,
George

Hi Guys,

Has anyone tried connecting
an outdoor OTA HD antenna directly into the MR unit? What were the results? My goal is to receive OTA local HD channels w/o connecting to the H20-600.

Thanks,
George


I have a Zenith Silver Sensor in my attic which is split to two rooms. In the secondary room, the cable is split again to go to a Sony 30" direct-view set with an ATSC tuner and to an HR10-250 (where the signal gets split again internally). In the primary room, the cable is split to go to the 1130HD and to an HR10-250 (where it gets split again as before). So, the 1130HD is receiving approximately 25% of the signal from my antenna. It picks up all the channels that I can receiver and, in my opinion, has the best tuner of all the above-mentioned. It's nice to be able to watch a local channel when my HDTivo is recording two shows. The TVGuide doesn't work very good though.

I'm also happy to report that my PDP-5060 has been performing flawlessly for a year now as well. The picture quality is as good as the first day i saw it.

I'm so glad i purchased this plasma at the time because i am not sure about the newer plasmas without the media receiver. I like the idea of having all direct connections to an external box.

I have a Zenith Silver Sensor in my attic which is split to two rooms. In the secondary room, the cable is split again to go to a Sony 30" direct-view set with an ATSC tuner and to an HR10-250 (where the signal gets split again internally). In the primary room, the cable is split to go to the 1130HD and to an HR10-250 (where it gets split again as before). So, the 1130HD is receiving approximately 25% of the signal from my antenna. It picks up all the channels that I can receiver and, in my opinion, has the best tuner of all the above-mentioned. It's nice to be able to watch a local channel when my HDTivo is recording two shows. The TVGuide doesn't work very good though.
Jediphish,

Thank you for the feedback. :) I am curious which MR antenna connection did you use A or B for OTA signal feed?

George

Jediphish,

Thank you for the feedback. :) I am curious which MR antenna connection did you use A or B for OTA signal feed?

George


Only the A input has an ATSC tuner. The B input only receives NTSC signals (analog channels), so I didn't bother splitting the signal just for that. That's the only way I'd get P-I-P, but I could care less about having P-I-P with an analog signal that has snow and ghosting.

I have a Zenith Silver Sensor in my attic which is split to two rooms. In the secondary room, the cable is split again to go to a Sony 30" direct-view set with an ATSC tuner and to an HR10-250 (where the signal gets split again internally). In the primary room, the cable is split to go to the 1130HD and to an HR10-250 (where it gets split again as before). So, the 1130HD is receiving approximately 25% of the signal from my antenna. It picks up all the channels that I can receiver and, in my opinion, has the best tuner of all the above-mentioned. It's nice to be able to watch a local channel when my HDTivo is recording two shows. The TVGuide doesn't work very good though.

Utilizing multiple splices in an RF signal does not equate to a percentage drop for each split, does it? If I understand your post correctly, you are thinking that four splices equates to a 75% signal loss.

I believe this is incorrect. Each splitter should have a rating of loss on it, and I think 3.5 dB loss is typical for a two-way splitter (one input, two outputs).

Am I out in left field here?

Mark

Utilizing multiple splices in an RF signal does not equate to a percentage drop for each split, does it? If I understand your post correctly, you are thinking that four splices equates to a 75% signal loss.

I believe this is incorrect. Each splitter should have a rating of loss on it, and I think 3.5 dB loss is typical for a two-way splitter (one input, two outputs).

Am I out in left field here?

Mark


Someone else will know more about this than I, but I thought I read somewhere on this board that 3.5 dB drop is essentially equivalent to a 50% reduction, but I could be wrong. From my experience, cutting the signal in half (splitting it two ways) will not necessarily diminish signal strength by half (as measured by internal meters (which may just be measuring bit-error rates), if you have a very strong signal to begin with.

can one of the pio owners tell me where the pio 4360HD is made in? is it made in japan and assembled in mexico like the panny or it's made/assembled in japan 100%?

can one of the pio owners tell me where the pio 4360HD is made in? is it made in japan and assembled in mexico like the panny or it's made/assembled in japan 100%?As for my 1130, it's made in the Boonies of Iowa. Seriously, it says, "assembled in USA" with Japan and USA components.

does the pio plasma automatically stretch HD signal that broadcast in 4:3 to 16:9? another words, will you see the two black pillars on some of the HD channels?

trying to do some final comparison shopping between panny 42" 9uk and the 4350Hd. any input would be appreciated.

does the pio plasma automatically stretch HD signal that broadcast in 4:3 to 16:9? another words, will you see the two black pillars on some of the HD channels?

trying to do some final comparison shopping between panny 42" 9uk and the 4350Hd. any input would be appreciated.


There is no such thing as an HD signal that is broadcast in 4:3. Channels do, however, broadcast 4:3 matieral, in an upconverted HD format quite often. When they do this, they either insert black pillars into the 16:9 image at the point of transmission (which I believe is what you are referring to), or they crop or stretch the material to fill the widescreen area (e.g., TNT-HD). Most HD TVs will recognize these signals as HD (because they will be transmitted in 720p or 1080i regardless of whether its true HD or upconverted) and will display them using your set's "Full" aspect ratio. If you want to elminate the black bars from upconverted material, you can use the Wide setting on the Pioneer to stretch the image. I'm not aware of sets that do this automatically.

sticky

Hi guys I'm new to this forum and I've got it down to two TVs.

(Pioneer Elite 50" Plasma & Sony KDLXBR3 46" LCD)

My question is this, since Plasma's are know for burning in program logos, dvd menus etc. Do you guys seen fast burn in on these Pioneer sets? By fast I mean if I were to leave the same screen on for 8hrs would these premier plasma sets burn in?

I know the lesser ones would, and I know about the pixel randomizing or moving thing, but I've heard more than a few stories from people that have had CNN, TNT icons burn in since those guys display there logos in motion video.

Any help would be great. I do love the true blacks of Plasma's, but not sure on the 720 res or the burn in factor.

Hi guys I'm new to this forum and I've got it down to two TVs.

(Pioneer Elite 50" Plasma & Sony KDLXBR3 46" LCD)

My question is this, since Plasma's are know for burning in program logos, dvd menus etc. Do you guys seen fast burn in on these Pioneer sets? By fast I mean if I were to leave the same screen on for 8hrs would these premier plasma sets burn in?

I know the lesser ones would, and I know about the pixel randomizing or moving thing, but I've heard more than a few stories from people that have had CNN, TNT icons burn in since those guys display there logos in motion video.

Any help would be great. I do love the true blacks of Plasma's, but not sure on the 720 res or the burn in factor.

Either you are playing fast and loose with terms, or you need to update yourself on the technology. Burn in is not a big issue with quality plasmas, although image retention (which is a temporary burn in) can be an issue. There are those that recommend special "break in" DVD's, but I think as long as you show primarily full-screen variable images the first 1-200 hours, you'll be fine. As far as plasma vs LCD, when I did my shopping last spring, I chose plasma because the detail was much better in high motion images (as in sports, action movies, etc.) than LCD. And I can guarantee you won't go wrong with the Pioneer.

Long time lurker, first time poster. :)

I've had my 5060 for almost a year now and really do enjoy it. I have run into a small issue and was hoping to get your suggestions on how to eleviate this issue. When I watch Lost on HD, and the LOST logo appears and zooms in, the black areas get a sort of pixelization effect and is quite annoying, is there anything I can do to fix it? I have a Motorola Digital Box that my provider gave me. Let me know if you need any additional information.

thanks for the info kidziti, Yeah right now I know much more about the LCDs than Plasmas. I've seen what looks like "burn in" in the stores. I looked at the 1080p Pioneer in BB, it seemed to have burn in from a Blue Ray Disc menu. So I was just hinking to myself that if this top end 10k plasma can get it any one under it like the Elite 50" may be suseptible. But I had no idea about image retention. So image retention is not perminant?

I also did not know that the first 200hrs should be full screen images without bars, logos, etc. So I guess the break in DVDs are just motion video on a loop that just play continuosly. What does this break in period accomplish? I assume it helps image retention.

thanks for the info kidziti, Yeah right now I know much more about the LCDs than Plasmas. I've seen what looks like "burn in" in the stores. I looked at the 1080p Pioneer in BB, it seemed to have burn in from a Blue Ray Disc menu. So I was just hinking to myself that if this top end 10k plasma can get it any one under it like the Elite 50" may be suseptible. But I had no idea about image retention. So image retention is not perminant?

I also did not know that the first 200hrs should be full screen images without bars, logos, etc. So I guess the break in DVDs are just motion video on a loop that just play continuosly. What does this break in period accomplish? I assume it helps image retention.

Ever have a pill go down roughly and it feels like it's stuck in your throat, even though you swallowed it? The feeling stays with you a while but after a few meals it disappears. That's image retention. It tends to wash away after the screen is used for a while with varying material. From what I understand, burn in (permanent "scarring" of the screen by an image ghost that will never go away) is pretty rare. Even the horror stories I've heard of gamers leaving a static image on the screen overnight end up with happy endings as the retained image eventually fades away with subsequent use.

Next time you go to Best Buy, watch a moving image on an LCD next to a plasma (any brand will work). If you don't see a difference of better retained detail of the image in motion in plasma over LCD, then get the LCD. I can see the difference, that's why I went with plasma. But that was last spring, so I don't know how much LCD technology has caught up to plasma with respect to motion artifacts. Also, look at each screen from a severe angle - that was also an issue for me, since plasma viewing angles assure no bad seat in the house. But again, I understand LCD has made great strides in this area, and my impressions of several months ago may no longer be valid. At the time, I was looking at Pio and Panny plasmas and the Sharp Aquous LCD.

thanks for the info kidziti, Yeah right now I know much more about the LCDs than Plasmas. I've seen what looks like "burn in" in the stores. I looked at the 1080p Pioneer in BB, it seemed to have burn in from a Blue Ray Disc menu. So I was just hinking to myself that if this top end 10k plasma can get it any one under it like the Elite 50" may be suseptible. But I had no idea about image retention. So image retention is not perminant?

I also did not know that the first 200hrs should be full screen images without bars, logos, etc. So I guess the break in DVDs are just motion video on a loop that just play continuosly. What does this break in period accomplish? I assume it helps image retention.

you have to take it in context. those loops are playing all day long every day of the week at those stores. burn in is going to happen. i've got LCD's at work that display a static image for a better part of the day. guess what? i can see the burn on those screens.

but like was said earlier, image retention is a far far more common occurence than burn in. and unlike burn in, you can be rid of it.

Question: What is the difference between the Pio 5070 and Elite 1140?

Is it just the audio?

Question: What is the difference between the Pio 5070 and Elite 1140?

Is it just the audio?

the 1140 and the 5070 share the same glass, but the 1140 has a better scaler/deinterlacer (the part of the tv that takes the signal and up/down converts and puts it on the screen) as well as many more user adjustable functions and viewing modes. audio remains the same between the two i believe.

Can 5071's HDMI input accept DVI-D signal from computer's video card? (ATI AIW 9700 Pro)

Basically, by using DVI-to-HDMI cable.

Can 5071's HDMI input accept DVI-D signal from computer's video card? (ATI AIW 9700 Pro)

Basically, by using DVI-to-HDMI cable.

HDMI is backwards compatible with DVI so, yes.

have any of you guys had any cable card problems? I've got a 4360 and it's been working great. I recently put a cable card in it and had some problems with initialization, but got it working. after a week or two the card stopped working. I got a new card and couldn't get it to work. So the question remains: is it the card or the media receiver that's the problem. has anyone had any similar problems?

Hello!
I am a manager of a retail store that sells Pio Elite Plasmas. I have purchased an 1130, but have a very odd question. Has anyone found the 1130, or 930 that supports 1080p/24 AND 1080p/30? Both of our floor models (1130 & 930) DO support both!!! Is this just a fluke, or has anyone heard of this happening?? I really can't explain or find ANY information about this odd occurance.

Instead of the display reading:
HDMI
1080i (or whatever resolution)

it simply says

HDMI
(no resolution displayed?)

You can see the TV sync to the 1080p/24 signal, and the signal generator PLAINLY says 1080p/24 on the front.

Other TVs that we sell that DON'T support 1080p simply don't display anything on the screen with the same generator (leads me to believe the generator doesn't automatically drop resolution down to support the TV)

I have also hooked up the Panasonic Blu-Ray Player, and the new Sony BDP-S1. Both seem to work at 1080p?!?

AAAAAHHH it's driving me nuts, please help!!!

Josh

Hello!
I am a manager of a retail store that sells Pio Elite Plasmas. I have purchased an 1130, but have a very odd question. Has anyone found the 1130, or 930 that supports 1080p/24 AND 1080p/30? Both of our floor models (1130 & 930) DO support both!!! Is this just a fluke, or has anyone heard of this happening?? I really can't explain or find ANY information about this odd occurance.

Instead of the display reading:
HDMI
1080i (or whatever resolution)

it simply says

HDMI
(no resolution displayed?)

You can see the TV sync to the 1080p/24 signal, and the signal generator PLAINLY says 1080p/24 on the front.

Other TVs that we sell that DON'T support 1080p simply don't display anything on the screen with the same generator (leads me to believe the generator doesn't automatically drop resolution down to support the TV)

I have also hooked up the Panasonic Blu-Ray Player, and the new Sony BDP-S1. Both seem to work at 1080p?!?

AAAAAHHH it's driving me nuts, please help!!!

Josh

It will accept a 1080p/24 input but it won't display it in 1080p. It will convert it to its native resolution. Not all TV's will accept a 1080p input, but more and more are accepting the input even though they can't display it. It makes for more compatibility with the future of HD DVD players and gaming systems.

i do understand how upscaling, and downscaling work. my biggest question is does anyone else's 1130 accept the 1080p signal as mine does? i have specifically read that the 1140, and the 5070 DO, but i have NEVER read or heard of the 1130 doing this.

See post #232 waaaay back in this thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6238685&highlight=1080p#post6238685), which claims that the 6G Pios could receive 1080p24. I asked about this a few months ago and NemoZorro replied that he thought the 6G panels could not receive 1080p24. Sounds like your tests prove that it can.

This is great news if its true, as I would love to send a direct 24p signal to mine, using the 72hz mode and have it do nothing but downscale the signal from 1080 to 768, without introducing any deinterlacing artifacts.

Need help to setup Home Media Gallery for Elite PRO-1140HD.
Computer runs Windows XP Home Edition SP2
Windows Media Player Version 11.0.5721.5145 installed
TV has the latest firmware.
After Windows Media Player was installed, the TV was able to show things on the computer.
Then when I tried to use it again, the TV was never able to list the computer as a server.
Other diagnostics:
- TV is able to obtain an IP address from the router
- Computer can ping the IP address assigned to the TV
- Have Windows Media Player running when trying to establish connection
Therefore, something is preventing the TV from seeing the computer.
Also, the Windows Media Player Media Sharing window no longer shows the TV after I tried to clean things up.
Does anyone encounter similar problems before? What are the steps to resolve them?

I just solved the problem somehow.
This time I started Windows Media Player on the computer first,
then I turned on the TV and the TV was able to see the computer.

*HELP*

I have the PDP5060 and a Motorola HDTV Digital Receiver. The issue I have is when I watch a show, example: Lost, during the opening credits when the lost logo moves towards the viewer (with the eerie sound), some of the black portions of the screen turn into white or grey boxes, can anyone help me fix this?

Thank you!

Shortly after purchasing my Pioneer 5060, I bought a stand for the 1130 on Ebay (which was a major improvement in appearance and function). I am now wondering about "upgrading" my PDP S38 speakers for the PDP S50's. The Pioneer site seems to say they work with all 50" plasmas.

Can anyone confirm that they will work with my 5060 and would they have improved the sound quality over the S38's I have now?
BTW: I am hooked up to my surround system but frequently just use the TV's speakers, especially when the kids are using the TV.

Shortly after purchasing my Pioneer 5060, I bought a stand for the 1130 on Ebay (which was a major improvement in appearance and function). I am now wondering about "upgrading" my PDP S38 speakers for the PDP S50's. The Pioneer site seems to say they work with all 50" plasmas.

Can anyone confirm that they will work with my 5060 and would they have improved the sound quality over the S38's I have now?
BTW: I am hooked up to my surround system but frequently just use the TV's speakers, especially when the kids are using the TV.

i had no idea there was a difference. what is it?

I have an 1130HD connected to a Pioneer VSX80-TXV with 3-ring mini-cable for SR+ functionality. I have encountered one quirk. Normally, when I press THX, Advanced Surround, Volume Up, etc., the first press of the button displays the current setting of that feature and additional presses of the button will effect changes. If you press a button once, the display comes up showing the current setting. If you don't press the button again, in about 5 seconds the display will go away. This works for all functions that are supported by SR+ except the Std Surround button. If the source is Dolby Digital, when you press Std Surround, the OSD shows Dolby Digital but the display will not automatically go away. I have to do something like press volume up or down, to get the DD display to go away. Similarly, if the source is not DD, then pressing Std Surround will actually begin to cycle through the various digital surround formats (DPLII movies, DPLII music, etc.) instead of first displaying the current setting.

Has anyone else encounted this same bug?

i had no idea there was a difference. what is it?

That's really the second part of my question. It is next to impossible to find detailed information about either set of speakers. I am assuming there is a difference because of the difference in the model numbers and that the peripherals of the Elite series are generally improved.

That's really the second part of my question. It is next to impossible to find detailed information about either set of speakers. I am assuming there is a difference because of the difference in the model numbers and that the peripherals of the Elite series are generally improved.

i remembered TVA has pio speakers but they only list them for the commercial models. where have you found the Elite speakers? TVA's are quite pricey. if i remember correctly the 43/5060 speakers are 10 watts and the ones listed for the commercial models are 12w. maybe that's the difference if the elites and the commercials use similar speakers.

I have a question that's probably been asked numerous times. But since it involves the word 'cable,' searching for it is dang near impossible.

I have the 4360 and basic CableTV service. However, I do get some HD content (a few locals). I also get a bunch of rogue digital channels, music and pay-per-views, which might be handy to keep around.

I am caught up in this Mediacom fiasco and got an antenna so I can get the channels I'm missing out on. The 4360 has 2 inputs, so I thought I'd be ok. I have my CableTV in the AntA and tried to plug in my antenna to AntB. As everyone reading this already knows, AntB doesn't get digital signals, and therefore, I can't get my HDTV.

I have a switch so I could put both signals into AntA, but is there an easier/better way to do this. I assume a regular ol' coax splitter wouldn't work, would it?

Any response is greatly appreciated.
--Nick

Shortly after purchasing my Pioneer 5060, I bought a stand for the 1130 on Ebay (which was a major improvement in appearance and function). I am now wondering about "upgrading" my PDP S38 speakers for the PDP S50's. The Pioneer site seems to say they work with all 50" plasmas.

Can anyone confirm that they will work with my 5060 and would they have improved the sound quality over the S38's I have now?
BTW: I am hooked up to my surround system but frequently just use the TV's speakers, especially when the kids are using the TV.

I also upgraded to an Elite stand shortly after getting my 4360, but took a different approach to upgrading speakers. Almost any quality bookshelf speaker will sound a lot better than either the 5060 or Elite speakers. After much research on the speaker forum, I wound up with a pair of Ascend speakers. They are small, unobtrusive, and even though they recommend much more power, they sound surprisingly good with the 12 watt internal amps in my 4360. While I've not listened to any Elite speakers, their physical dimensions alone would make it unlikely that they would be a significant upgrade.

Been watching my Pro-1130HD without any issues since buying it in September 2006. Have a Zenith Silver Sensor connected to Ant Input A and have been receiving all of my local OTA channels digitally (as well as in analog form). A couple of days ago the digital channels stopped tuning in a picture (no show banner displayed either). So, yesterday I ran the tuner setup again for tuner A and when it finished there were only analog channels showing up - NO DIGITAL CHANNELS at all were listed and cannot be tuned manually.

I have no problems tuning digital channels with the other 3 ATSC tuners in my house and I've checked the coax connection to tuner A (I wouldn't be receiving the analog channels if there was a problem with the connection).

I never thought this would happen, but do you guys think the ATSC DTV tuner inside my Pio's media receier has left the farm? It's under warranty, so I can always go that route, but would like to at least find out if others have had this problem occur, because I don't really want to disconnect the MR for a week while the service center can diagnose and repair it.

Thanks in Advance.

UPDATE - the local service center advised me to try unpluggin the MR and also to switch the tuner setup to Cable (run it) and then back to AIR (and run it again). Did both and now receiving digital channels just fine. Can't say for sure if it was the unplugging or the forced switch on the tuner set-up since I didn't try a tuner setup immediately after repowering. Thus, one of the two changes helped.

UPDATE - the local service center advised me to try unpluggin the MR and also to switch the tuner setup to Cable (run it) and then back to AIR (and run it again). Did both and now receiving digital channels just fine. Can't say for sure if it was the unplugging or the forced switch on the tuner set-up since I didn't try a tuner setup immediately after repowering. Thus, one of the two changes helped.

I had the same problem you had on my 1140. Pio Support (800-421-1404) advised me to do a full factory reset. Part of that process is to unplug the display for 30 seconds. Tuner set up for AIR worked fine after that. In my case, the progress bar on the setup screen never moved past 75% or so. That green bar has to go all the way to end and then the tuner setup console has to still be present so you know it was a successful setup.

Bottom line is that I believe you only need to unplug it for 30 seconds.

I had the same problem you had on my 1140. Pio Support (800-421-1404) advised me to do a full factory reset. Part of that process is to unplug the display for 30 seconds. Tuner set up for AIR worked fine after that. In my case, the progress bar on the setup screen never moved past 75% or so. That green bar has to go all the way to end and then the tuner setup console has to still be present so you know it was a successful setup.

Bottom line is that I believe you only need to unplug it for 30 seconds.


For future reference, what's the entire procedure for a FFR?

For future reference, what's the entire procedure for a FFR?

I don't have the steps with me. However, it may be different for 6th and 7th gens, so you would be well advised to just give Pio a call. Next time I have a problem like this, it will not hurt to try a 30 second unplug to see if that solves the problem. This is probably a good first step and I don't believe the first course of action should have been a FFR (you lose your settings), and if you had an ISF calibration, well... Lets not get into that potential nightmare.

I also upgraded to an Elite stand shortly after getting my 4360, but took a different approach to upgrading speakers. Almost any quality bookshelf speaker will sound a lot better than either the 5060 or Elite speakers. After much research on the speaker forum, I wound up with a pair of Ascend speakers. They are small, unobtrusive, and even though they recommend much more power, they sound surprisingly good with the 12 watt internal amps in my 4360. While I've not listened to any Elite speakers, their physical dimensions alone would make it unlikely that they would be a significant upgrade.

whooaa....do the ascends mount like the factory speakers? what model? got any pics? that's pretty interesting.

whooaa....do the ascends mount like the factory speakers? what model? got any pics? that's pretty interesting.

The model I got is the 170 SE, which you can see on this link:

http://www.ascendacoustics.com/pages/products/speakers/cbm170/cbm170.html

As you will see, they do not mount like the factory speakers which was a plus for me. I have them in the cabinet under the display and prefer the clean narrow frame look that removing the factory speakers gives. While the visual apperarance part is a matter of taste and setup, I did find the sound to be a major improvement. My big concern going in was how they would sound with the 12 watt internal amps of the TV and I am very pleased with the result.

I think i have a problem.

I have a Scientific Atlanta 8300HD PVR set to output 480i, 720p and 1080i. My PDP-5060 displays a white noise image for about 1-2 seconds when my plasma changes resolution from 1080i -> 720p or vice versa.

I verified this on my PS3, which does it randomly as well. Not as frequent however.

Is this happening to anyone elses' PDP-5060 or PDP-4360 ( I believe we have the same media boxes)?

Thanks,
Steve

I think i have a problem.

I have a Scientific Atlanta 8300HD PVR set to output 480i, 720p and 1080i. My PDP-5060 displays a white noise image for about 1-2 seconds when my plasma changes resolution from 1080i -> 720p or vice versa.

I verified this on my PS3, which does it randomly as well. Not as frequent however.

Is this happening to anyone elses' PDP-5060 or PDP-4360 ( I believe we have the same media boxes)?

Thanks,
Steve

is this a new occurance? i do know that you lose the picture for a moment when switching resolutions (i have a 4360) but i never see white noise. since you verified it with the PS3 you can with some degree or certainty rule out the PVR. are you using the same cables with the two devices? i'm just throwing out ideas.

See post #232 waaaay back in this thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6238685&highlight=1080p#post6238685), which claims that the 6G Pios could receive 1080p24. I asked about this a few months ago and NemoZorro replied that he thought the 6G panels could not receive 1080p24. Sounds like your tests prove that it can.

This is great news if its true, as I would love to send a direct 24p signal to mine, using the 72hz mode and have it do nothing but downscale the signal from 1080 to 768, without introducing any deinterlacing artifacts.

This would be great news; has anyone been able to try and verify this? Sometimes a unadvertised specs get into product, and this would be fantastic for us 6g owners.

EDIT - sorry, reading backwards to catchup on this thread - been offline for a while. Sounds like it has already been verified. I hope to be getting a Pio Blu-ray player soon, and will post results with my 1130. This is really exciting, and makes me feel much better about the 6gs. Even though it can't do 1080p, the 24 support should eliminate judder as Jediphish pointed out. I can live with some down rezzing to get that stability; I've seen it in action on the 1080p panel and it was nothing short of incredible.

All,

I've finally decided to hang my TV. Could anyone confirm if Item # 195509 at costco.com will fit the 5060? It's rated to 200 lbs and has tilt capability as well as can move up and down 12".

Thanks and let me know what you get if otherwise.

I have a 4360 which is wall mounted. I used a very very similar wall mount for mine. If you look at the back of your TV, you can see that Pioneer has done a wonderful job of engineering their TVs. You could pretty much bolt it up to any bracket. Well, I'm sure some bracket don't work, but your Costco one looks like it'd fit

I can't say for the 5060, but I imagine it is very similar to the 4360. Just be sure to have a friend help you lift it, because these monster TVs get heavy where they're above your head . . .

All,

I've finally decided to hang my TV. Could anyone confirm if Item # 195509 at costco.com will fit the 5060? It's rated to 200 lbs and has tilt capability as well as can move up and down 12".

Thanks and let me know what you get if otherwise.

the spacing on the mounting holes have a VESA rating. smaller tv's have a different number than larger ones and tv's in the same class/size range typically use the same VESA. i can't for the life of me remember what VESA pio uses, but it's in the manual. at any rate i bought my mount from these guys and everything went great with the transaction:

http://www.mountsdirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=52_91&products_id=128

is this a new occurance? i do know that you lose the picture for a moment when switching resolutions (i have a 4360) but i never see white noise. since you verified it with the PS3 you can with some degree or certainty rule out the PVR. are you using the same cables with the two devices? i'm just throwing out ideas.

I switched inputs from my PVR and PS3 and it's coming from my PVR. Time to go get that repaired.

If it was my plasma i'd be so pissed. My warranty just ran out last month!

I can't believe these expensive plasma's only come with a one year warranty!

Thanks,
Steve

I can't believe these expensive plasma's only come with a one year warranty!


Just for clarification, since this thread covers Elite models, too, the Elites have a two-year warranty.

I own a 4360 today and find it excellent quality. I have a chance to get at 5070. Two questions:

1] The 5070 does not have the media center. Has anyone found a problem with all of the electronics in the plasma cabinet itself?
2] I an thinking of buying this from a mail order house like Abes of Maine. Any comments on that versus local store purchase?

I own a 4360 today and find it excellent quality. I have a chance to get at 5070. Two questions:

1] The 5070 does not have the media center. Has anyone found a problem with all of the electronics in the plasma cabinet itself?
2] I an thinking of buying this from a mail order house like Abes of Maine. Any comments on that versus local store purchase?

no problems with the deletion of the MR with the 70 series plasmas. setup my parents 70 series saturday and it's a hell of a tv. pioneer scrapped the MR to reduce costs and the fact that the new gen A/V receivers do HDMI switching. kind of redundant.

i've gotten two plasmas shipped to me. flawless transactions on both. i must say, you should research who you order from.

i've looked but had no luck finding anything on this: does the 1130 HD have a built in scaler or converter to upscale DVD content?

Now even as i write this i cannot even be sure i am asking the right question, but basically i am wondering whether i should upgrade to a new DVD player (i currently have a 2-yr old sony progressive DVD player). Thinking about the Oppos and the helios. anyway it occurred to me that i dont even know if i could make use of teh upscale features.

any thoughts, pointers to resources, advice? aside from the display (which i love) i have a very simple setup -- comcast HD PVR (hdmi) and sony DVD (component) and Wii (component) all hooked directly to pio media box.

is there even an ability to have two HDMI sources hooked in at the same time? i think i had to run my wii to the front input (#4) in order to use the component cables.

thanks and sorry if this has been asked and answered.

Hi Guys....

I've been trying to find the best settings for the Pioneer 5060 to work with my Sony DVD Player. I believe D-NICE provided settings somewhere on this thread, and I've tried to find it, but haven't been successful with so many pages on this thread.

Best settings for Pio 5060 ?

Best settings for Pio NS75H ?

Could someone please provide a link to this posting please. I have already completed the burn in procedure for 200 hrs, I'm just trying to find out what are the best settings now that I have completed this part.

Also what provides the best quality for output from the NS75H ?? 480p 720p 1080i ???

Currently I'm using Manufacture default settings on the DVD... but I think there is room for improvement.

Thank you in advance...

MIKE

Is anyone out there using a D-VHS recorder with one of these Pio or Elite plasmas? I'd love to hear some real user experience with either of the JVC or Mitz decks, combined with the TVGOS.

I hate having a connection go unused. The Mitz decks are pretty cheap now. Given OTA connected to the panel directly offers the best picture, D-VHS would seem to offer the best HD recordings. Thanks in advance.

Hi Guys....

I've been trying to find the best settings for the Pioneer 5060 to work with my Sony DVD Player. I believe D-NICE provided settings somewhere on this thread, and I've tried to find it, but haven't been successful with so many pages on this thread.

Best settings for Pio 5060 ?

Best settings for Pio NS75H ?

Could someone please provide a link to this posting please. I have already completed the burn in procedure for 200 hrs, I'm just trying to find out what are the best settings now that I have completed this part.

Also what provides the best quality for output from the NS75H ?? 480p 720p 1080i ???

Currently I'm using Manufacture default settings on the DVD... but I think there is room for improvement.

Thank you in advance...

MIKE

One school of thought says to just bump up the contrast / brightness to your taste after the break in period, that is if you are happy with your colors. I don't have the time to search for the link, but I know D-Nice posted quite a bit early in this thread.

i've looked but had no luck finding anything on this: does the 1130 HD have a built in scaler or converter to upscale DVD content?

Now even as i write this i cannot even be sure i am asking the right question, but basically i am wondering whether i should upgrade to a new DVD player (i currently have a 2-yr old sony progressive DVD player). Thinking about the Oppos and the helios. anyway it occurred to me that i dont even know if i could make use of teh upscale features.

any thoughts, pointers to resources, advice? aside from the display (which i love) i have a very simple setup -- comcast HD PVR (hdmi) and sony DVD (component) and Wii (component) all hooked directly to pio media box.

is there even an ability to have two HDMI sources hooked in at the same time? i think i had to run my wii to the front input (#4) in order to use the component cables.

thanks and sorry if this has been asked and answered.

Not sure I can address all of this, but the scaler in the panel is excellent. Many people think that sending native resolution of a SD-DVD (480i) to the Pio is the way to go as the scaling in the panel is better than most DVD players. I know one of the Oppos can output 480i - not sure which one, but you should find info here in this thread about it.

Is anyone else getting this screen displayed for 1-2sec when changing resolutions on channels from their Scientific Atlanta 8300HD?

I just want to know if anyone is getting this.

http://www3.sympatico.ca/scanido/images/white_noise.jpg

i wasn't getting that screen, but was getting some quick flashes. I set my 8300 to fixed output and that stopped it.

My fan inside the box is really loud and VERY annoying when watching programs at low volume. Is there any way to lower the decibel level? I have changed the setting from Norm -> Max in the TV's setup Menu (which actually sounds quieter) but not sure how to make it stay permanently. When I exit the menu via pressing the Main Menu button it reverts back to the Norm mode.

Also (this probably is a stupid question) can I get away with shutting the fan off altogether? Temp seems ot be running about 41 C with fan on.

I have the pioneer elite 1130hd and am having a strange problem where i cannot power the display on after the display has been off for awhile. The status light is red on the display. The only way i can turn on the display is to unplug the media receiver or sometimes use the Standby button on the MR. But the remote control will not trigger the display to turn. And i am trying two remotes so it is not the remotes fault. FYI the blue light on the MR blinks 5 times in a row when the problem is happening. Could this be an error code or something? The manual is of no help. Anyone????
Sean

My fan inside the box is really loud and VERY annoying when watching programs at low volume. Is there any way to lower the decibel level? I have changed the setting from Norm -> Max in the TV's setup Menu (which actually sounds quieter) but not sure how to make it stay permanently. When I exit the menu via pressing the Main Menu button it reverts back to the Norm mode.

Also (this probably is a stupid question) can I get away with shutting the fan off altogether? Temp seems ot be running about 41 C with fan on.

Bump

I have the pioneer elite 1130hd and am having a strange problem where i cannot power the display on after the display has been off for awhile. The status light is red on the display. The only way i can turn on the display is to unplug the media receiver or sometimes use the Standby button on the MR. But the remote control will not trigger the display to turn. And i am trying two remotes so it is not the remotes fault. FYI the blue light on the MR blinks 5 times in a row when the problem is happening. Could this be an error code or something? The manual is of no help. Anyone????
Sean

hmm blinking blue light? sure the tv guide is not operational? I've heard of the tv guide causing all sorts of problems like you're describing.

I should note that the its the blue light on the Media REceiver not on the display. I do not use the TV guide feature.

I am considering pio elite 1080p and sony xbr3. Can anyone help me understand which one is better?

My fan inside the box is really loud and VERY annoying when watching programs at low volume. Is there any way to lower the decibel level? I have changed the setting from Norm -> Max in the TV's setup Menu (which actually sounds quieter) but not sure how to make it stay permanently. When I exit the menu via pressing the Main Menu button it reverts back to the Norm mode.

Also (this probably is a stupid question) can I get away with shutting the fan off altogether? Temp seems ot be running about 41 C with fan on.

Bump :)

This would be great news; has anyone been able to try and verify this? Sometimes a unadvertised specs get into product, and this would be fantastic for us 6g owners.

EDIT - sorry, reading backwards to catchup on this thread - been offline for a while. Sounds like it has already been verified. I hope to be getting a Pio Blu-ray player soon, and will post results with my 1130. This is really exciting, and makes me feel much better about the 6gs. Even though it can't do 1080p, the 24 support should eliminate judder as Jediphish pointed out. I can live with some down rezzing to get that stability; I've seen it in action on the 1080p panel and it was nothing short of incredible.


So, not one of us who paid several thousand dollars for our plasma display has purchased an HD-DVD or BD player that outputs 1080p24 and tried it on a 6G panel to see if it works as we all hope?

So, not one of us who paid several thousand dollars for our plasma display has purchased an HD-DVD or BD player that outputs 1080p24 and tried it on a 6G panel to see if it works as we all hope?

Thanks for bringing this up again - I'm really curious too. I want the Pio BD player because of the 1080p/24, but haven't gotten it yet to test. I'd feel alot better if one of the AVSers here could verify.

I am considering pio elite 1080p and sony xbr3. Can anyone help me understand which one is better?
I will pick the Pio FHD-1 over the Sony here is why:
The best Picture available right now for a flat panel (or any consumer display in my opinion)
As a matter of personal preference I think a plasma picture is more natural compared to an LCD image, which to me always looks like you are looking at a computer display.
If your intended area of use is relatively bright. I would consider a the XBR but otherwise Pio hands down.
Also might not attract you right now they are giving the Pio 50 inch Plasma (Costco version I think) for free with the FHD-1 (magnolia and other authorized Elite dealers) So if you do decide to keep the other one or donate it. Its another reason to get the best display out there in my opinion.
Check out the Cnet review as they do make a good case that this unit is for a very specfic people who put image quality above all else.
Hope this helped.

I have a blinking standby light that blinks twice. When I try to turn on the TV is comes on for 2 seconds with a green screen then turns off. Has anyone else experienced this before?

I am thinking of buying fhd-1 with the current promotion of the free PDP-5016HD. Does anyone know if PDP-5016HD is any good?

I am thinking of buying fhd-1 with the current promotion of the free PDP-5016HD. Does anyone know if PDP-5016HD is any good?

A free Pioneer 50" plasma display deserves nothing but praise. If this offer had been around 6 months ago, I might have splurged for the 1080p model instead of the 1130.

I am thinking of buying fhd-1 with the current promotion of the free PDP-5016HD. Does anyone know if PDP-5016HD is any good?
Well I saw it at the local Costco several times. Couldn't make much of it didn't look as the good as the 5070 for sure but that could be because of improper calibration and very bright environment. Didn't seem to have a removable speaker but heck a 50 inch for free with the best display out there it’s a no-brainer.

Not sure I can address all of this, but the scaler in the panel is excellent. Many people think that sending native resolution of a SD-DVD (480i) to the Pio is the way to go as the scaling in the panel is better than most DVD players. I know one of the Oppos can output 480i - not sure which one, but you should find info here in this thread about it.
Thanks much for this.

Thanks much for this.

Glad it helped. I'm no expert, but just an addicted HT lover! I use an Elite 79 player (can be had for a good deal now) to transport 480i and couldn't be happier.

Glad it helped. I'm no expert, but just an addicted HT lover! I use an Elite 79 player (can be had for a good deal now) to transport 480i and couldn't be happier.


I have the OPPO HD970 and connect it via HDMI at 480i to my Pro1130HD and love it.

Nemo - does your E79 have and an SR+ connection? Does it do 480i over HDMI or just component?

I have the OPPO HD970 and connect it via HDMI at 480i to my Pro1130HD and love it.

Nemo - does your E79 have and an SR+ connection? Does it do 480i over HDMI or just component?

Yes on the SR+ connection, but I don't use it. And yes, it does do 480i over HDMI. Really a good transport if you can get a deal......

Yes on the SR+ connection, but I don't use it. And yes, it does do 480i over HDMI. Really a good transport if you can get a deal......


What would a "good deal" be these days on this? I paid list for the OPPO which is about a buck fifty.

I just have to post this because it reveals a true fear.

I had a dream last night (which was as far from reality as most of my dreams) in which I was watching a movie on my Elite 1130. Let's say it was the crash scene just after the opening space battle in Revenge of the Sith, even though it wasn't, because that's all I can compare it to.

Anyway, in the scenes there are contrails all over the sky, sort of converging towards the center of the screen (towards the viewer). I pulled out a pocket knife and decided to "enhance" the sharpness of the contrails (which were still-frame by now?) by giving each one a distinctive outline.

A little while later, while watching another show, I realized that I had actually cut through the glass of the panel, so that when I watched a regular movie, light shot out each of the hundreds of cuts I'd made in the glass (sort of like the light effect when Han Solo emerged from carbonite). Man, was I upset that I had ruined such a prized possession. It wasn't long after that that I started thinking, "oh well, guess I'll just have to get an 1140."

I was pretty happy when I woke up and realized it was all just a dream. Sorry for the OT post, but I had to share this with someone.

I just have to post this because it reveals a true fear.

I had a dream last night (which was as far from reality as most of my dreams) in which I was watching a movie on my Elite 1130. Let's say it was the crash scene just after the opening space battle in Revenge of the Sith, even though it wasn't, because that's all I can compare it to.

Anyway, in the scenes there are contrails all over the sky, sort of converging towards the center of the screen (towards the viewer). I pulled out a pocket knife and decided to "enhance" the sharpness of the contrails (which were still-frame by now?) by giving each one a distinctive outline.

A little while later, while watching another show, I realized that I had actually cut through the glass of the panel, so that when I watched a regular movie, light shot out each of the hundreds of cuts I'd made in the glass (sort of like the light effect when Han Solo emerged from carbonite). Man, was I upset that I had ruined such a prized possession. It wasn't long after that that I started thinking, "oh well, guess I'll just have to get an 1140."

I was pretty happy when I woke up and realized it was all just a dream. Sorry for the OT post, but I had to share this with someone.

I think someone needs to watch a bit less TV :eek:

Back away from the crack pipe

Back away from the crack pipe



Geez, fellas. It was just a dream. I thought all you tweekers would think it was sort of humorous, especially the "edge enhancement" part. We all know EE is bad.

lol just kiddin.

What would a "good deal" be these days on this? I paid list for the OPPO which is about a buck fifty.

My guess is about 3 times your OPPO - just a guess though.

So, not one of us who paid several thousand dollars for our plasma display has purchased an HD-DVD or BD player that outputs 1080p24 and tried it on a 6G panel to see if it works as we all hope?

Finally another personal confirmation - the 1130 DOES indeed support a 1080p/24 signal. I've seen the 1080p panel in action, and I must say it is better than the 1130 with the 1080p/24 input (of course it should be), but not by much.

Really cool of Pioneer to have this input capability - my 768 panel is as good as a 720/768 panel can be!

for the people who've had their 6th gen for a year or more, how many hours do you have on your panel? i havent' checked mine since i passed break in, but i was curious the other day and checked. i got the panel in the beginning of Feb last year. i have 98XX hours on the panel as of yesterday on the main hour meter. according to my math, 365/9800=.03hrs/day. we usually watch for a few hours each evening and sometimes none on the weekend, but i find it's strange that i'm not even averaging an hour per day. i'm not a math wizard, but at 9800 hours/year, that's about 6 years give or take until i reach 60,000hrs. (half life of most plasmas)

edit, i forgot i have to convert to hour per year. duh! so at 8760 hrs/year, divided by 9800, that's 1.11 hrs/day. still sounds pretty low to me.

for the people who've had their 6th gen for a year or more, how many hours do you have on your panel? i havent' checked mine since i passed break in, but i was curious the other day and checked. i got the panel in the beginning of Feb last year. i have 98XX hours on the panel as of yesterday on the main hour meter. according to my math, 365/9800=.03hrs/day. we usually watch for a few hours each evening and sometimes none on the weekend, but i find it's strange that i'm not even averaging an hour per day.

2 - isn't that pathetic? We've been moving for the longest time, and unfortunately the TV room was a low priority. It has been sitting unused in its box since October. I was fortunate that everything seems to be working OK - so far!

Last night was the official opening........

Just rereading your post - I guess I've only had it 5 months. Nevermind........

A while back a couple of us reported that our auto size function quit working. Anyone know if there is a simple fix for this? It worked properly for many months and then it just quick engaging. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Finally another personal confirmation - the 1130 DOES indeed support a 1080p/24 signal. I've seen the 1080p panel in action, and I must say it is better than the 1130 with the 1080p/24 input (of course it should be), but not by much.

Really cool of Pioneer to have this input capability - my 768 panel is as good as a 720/768 panel can be!


Nemo - can you explain a bit. Did you connect a BD player to your 6G panel, or did you just get confirmation from someone else that the 6Gs do in fact work with 1080p24?

I'd really like to pull the trigger on the LG player, since it also plays HD-DVDs (at least most of them). It has a 24p output.

Nemo - can you explain a bit. Did you connect a BD player to your 6G panel, or did you just get confirmation from someone else that the 6Gs do in fact work with 1080p24?

I'd really like to pull the trigger on the LG player, since it also plays HD-DVDs (at least most of them). It has a 24p output.

I actually did it - we have one of the Pioneer BD players now, and it indeed works. I wasn't aware the the LG had the 1080p/24 - that might be a really good solution. But there is definitely a difference between the 24 and 60 on our panel, at least to my eyes.

I actually did it - we have one of the Pioneer BD players now, and it indeed works. I wasn't aware the the LG had the 1080p/24 - that might be a really good solution. But there is definitely a difference between the 24 and 60 on our panel, at least to my eyes.


Awesome! Thanks.

What is the best resolution to run HD DVDs and Blu Rays at? I've got the 4360, a PS3, and the Xbox 360 HD DVD drive. I honestly have a hard time telling the difference since I can't run 1080i/720p next to each other, although if I had to pick one I'd say 1080i looks slightly clearer.

This isn't one of those TVs that scales 1080i to 540p is it? In which case 720p would be clearly superior.

What is the best resolution to run HD DVDs and Blu Rays at? I've got the 4360, a PS3, and the Xbox 360 HD DVD drive. I honestly have a hard time telling the difference since I can't run 1080i/720p next to each other, although if I had to pick one I'd say 1080i looks slightly clearer.

This isn't one of those TVs that scales 1080i to 540p is it? In which case 720p would be clearly superior.

I don't know what Blu-ray player you have, but if you have one that is capable of outputing 1080p/24 (like the Sony or Pioneer), then use that setting as your panel should accept that input (even though it wasn't speced to do that). You won't see the actual 1080p resolution, but it will help to reduce judder and give a smoother picture.

Otherwise, let your eyes be the best judge. I remember early on in the Toshiba 1st gen thread that folks recommended always using 1080i for the HD-DVD player since that was closest to what was on the disc. I guess that is a good rule of thumb; try to match as closely to the disc resolution as possible, and let the panel do the rest. But again, experiment and pick what looks best.

I don't believe the panel does the 540 thing that you mention.

i wanna buy pioneer 5070. It's better than sony 46w2000? who tried 1080p@24 on pio? thx cya!

i wanna buy pioneer 5070. It's better than sony 46w2000? who tried 1080p@24 on pio? thx cya!
I've seen your post in 3 Pioneer forums and I assume you posted in Sony as well. Please don't cross post.

Hey guys-

It's been one year and 3 months since I bought my 1130. I had a question about settings and using the Digital Video Essentials DVD.

At the time I bought the set, I was using D_Nice's settings for a bit, then I used the older Video Essentials disc. Eventually, I set the TV as follows, pretty much as D-Nice had. I used the "Pure" selection. The DVD player is an older Pioneer DVD/LD player, non-upconvert, no HDMI:
Contrast: 30
Brightness: -4 to -3
Color: 0
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0
Energy Save: Save2

I just got the Digital Video Essentials and I thought the plasma has had plenty of time breaking in. After I messed a bit with trying to use that disc, the following settings were what I used:
Contrast: 30
Brightness: -6
Color: +14
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0
Energy Save: Save2

What I found difficult about this disc was trying to understand Contrast settings. It asks you to set the contrast till the white box blooms. It didn't appear to work. So I left it at 30. Same with Sharpness, if I followed the directions using the test pattern, then the image looked blurry. Maybe it's supposed to look like that.

The advanced color section was even more confusing, so I left that alone.

The black level setting made sense and I was able to lower brightness so the one black box matched the background black. I guess according to the disc, the brightness I had it at was too high.

Watching a few DVD's, it did look good. Blacks were black, if not too dark(?). There a certain uncertainty when you look at a conventional TV and see it appears to be brighter, meaning the backgrounds look more lit.

All HD OTA TV show images look great! I have observed that programing OTA TV shows that are syndicated on digital channels, like repeats of CSI Miami, Star Trek tend to look dark. If I push the contrast, then it looks "better". I don't think it's correct. Just experimenting.

I do plan to upgrade to a new DVD player; probably up-convert with HDMI. HD DVD or Blu-Ray still holding out for the format war to end, but it looks gloomy!

What's the opinion of my settings, DIgital Video Essentials, etc? Professional Calibration seems unlikely, but not out of the question. Thanks!

What I found difficult about this disc was trying to understand Contrast settings. It asks you to set the contrast till the white box blooms. It didn't appear to work. So I left it at 30.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the blooming only appears for older analog TV's (voltage?) I don't think it applies to plasmas and digital displays. I'm personally holding out for a Blu-ray calibration disc. I'm aware of the test patterns Sony hides in some of their Blu-ray movies but I want more! For the HD-DVD camp, it appears the HD-DVD version of DVE keeps getting postponed. Not good news at all for HD-DVD...

EWL5-

Thanks. Yes, When the disc was explaining the contrast section, it did say it was referring to CRT displays, not plasma.

So how does one correctly set contrast?

This disc is not very friendly in terms of how they design and present the material. I suppose a degree of knowledge in the material helps.

Does anyone have problems with low level noise? I've noticed a slight amount of noise/grain on bright colored screens with a large patch of solid color like the Xbox 360 dashboard menu. It's actually always there, but just harder to see with other images. It even shows up with the PS3 via HDMI, so I'm assuming it's not the connection.

Might I have some electrical interference with the cable that runs from the media box to the panel? That's about all I can think of. Or are all of the 4360/5360 like this and the noise is just so insignificant that nobody complains?

Guys,

First, I am certainly not a techie so this is puzzling me. I used the forum search but didn't see anything pop up like this. I bought a 5060 a year ago from local dealer and it's been great but have a recurring problem that neither the dealer or cable company can figure out.

We're using a cable card with the set and when watching an HD picture, I am losing the video portion of the broadcast but maintaining audio. No rhyme or cycle to this, the picture just goes blank. Can happen right after I turn the set on or wait all evening to just before the end of a show before it loses the video. I switch to any non-digital channel I get both audio and video signals and then if I jump back to the original HD channel; the video signal returns. It's been happening all along since I got the set last spring but I am just ready to spit nails now.

It's never happened with DVD's or other inputs, just on HD signal. Cable company has replaced the cable card twice but it still occurs. They are saying its a set issue; local dealer is saying its a cable issue and I am stuck in the middle being frustrated with March Madness approaching. My Texas Aggies are finally playing some decent basketball after so many seasons being outscored so I don't want miss watching a minute on HD.

Ideas or Suggestions???

A follow-up on my Contrast settings and Digital Video Essentials questions. I read that another option to try is the THX Optimizer on Pixar film DVD's and Star Wars DVD's. I used this to check out the contrast(white level) settings. I found if I did it right, the setting is 49! Seems high. Color settings agree with DVE as does Brightness settings of -6. Any other insights?

Aggie76, I am strictly OTA in my set up, so I can't help, but if worse comes to worse, could you do it the old fashioned way and use an antenna for March Madness?

A follow-up on my Contrast settings and Digital Video Essentials questions. I read that another option to try is the THX Optimizer on Pixar film DVD's and Star Wars DVD's. I used this to check out the contrast(white level) settings. I found if I did it right, the setting is 49! Seems high. Color settings agree with DVE as does Brightness settings of -6. Any other insights?

49 seems too high to safely operate the plasma. Even if it were correct, image retention may become a problem (if not burn-in!) Outside of ISF calibration, my best advice is to set it as high as you feel comfortable with.

Thanks EWL5, I totally agree, I left my Contrast set to 30.

I've always got the "normal" channels on the cable. I just hate not having the terrific HD picture on this set.

Plus, being out in rural Illinois we have some issues at times with antenna's pulling in signals some days.

I got rid of my DirecTV connection about a year ago and went to cable as I finally was tired of all the special effort to get the signals to all the different tv's we had in the house with kids, spouse & me all wanting to watch different shows. Progress really has spoiled us. Makes me laugh thinking back to the 50's and 60's with my family's old black and white "tube" console set that we all gathered around to watch.

Well, after several more calls this a.m. with both my local dealer and the Pioneer tech support team I got an answer. Seems that the system needs a upgrade of the software microboards and there's a support facility about 100 miles away that can do it.

Once I got a hold of someone who knew their stuff it was a short discussion, he checked the software version and in two minutes had a answer for me. They will let me know when the new microboards are at their site and then I will take a drive to visit with the control box so they can do a 15-minute job to update it.

HI all, new to these forums, but thinking (after all the reccos) of getting a Pioneer 6070HD from Invision Displays. However, I have a strange installation issue...I am trying to center the TV over a pre-exisitng window. I was wondering if anyone could recc. a good installer in the Bay Area to help with this, particularly, if you have used them before. I can't go B&M becuase this is a special sit.

Thanks!!!
cant wait to get this thing up and running.

:) :p

Does anyone use the VGA port on 4360/930? What resolution and refresh rate works the best for you? I seem to get different artifacts at different settings. at 1024x768@70Hz and 1280x768@70Hz I get minor tearing, but some stuttering in some fast moving scenes. At 1280X768@60Hz I get much more tearing, but no stuttering. Just wondering what other people use, especially for DVD and HD quality outputs.

Is anyone using a ps3 to view blueray movies via the hmdi input? I was wondering will it work and what resolution will display? I have a 5060 and was wondering would a ps3 be worth buying for blue ray movies using my set.

Finally another personal confirmation - the 1130 DOES indeed support a 1080p/24 signal. I've seen the 1080p panel in action, and I must say it is better than the 1130 with the 1080p/24 input (of course it should be), but not by much.

Really cool of Pioneer to have this input capability - my 768 panel is as good as a 720/768 panel can be!

The above confirmation really excites me here also. I have a Pro930 panel and I would like to take advantage of the support for the 1080p/24 signal/input capability.

However, I would like to clarify, does this also mean that if I hook up a XA2 or PS3 (with 1080p/24 output capability) to my Pro930 with the 1080p/24 input capability (assuming that both outputting players get the 1080p/24 software upgrade) I will be able to have the same advantage as having my Pro930 hooked up to a BDP-HD1? Or is this benefit exclusive to matching pioneer products only?

Could someone please help me understand this better? :)

Thanks

The above confirmation really excites me here also. I have a Pro930 panel and I would like to take advantage of the support for the 1080p/24 signal/input capability.

However, I would like to clarify, does this also mean that if I hook up a XA2 or PS3 (with 1080p/24 output capability) to my Pro930 with the 1080p/24 input capability (assuming that both outputting players get the 1080p/24 software upgrade) I will be able to have the same advantage as having my Pro930 hooked up to a BDP-HD1? Or is this benefit exclusive to matching pioneer products only?

Could someone please help me understand this better? :)

Thanks

If the 1130 can receive 1080p24 via HDMI from the Pio BD player, as NemoZorro has confirmed, then it should be able to receive 1080p24 from any player that can output that resolution/frame rate, regardless of manufacturer.

Thanks Jediphish for clarifying this to me.

Does anyone have problems with low level noise? I've noticed a slight amount of noise/grain on bright colored screens with a large patch of solid color like the Xbox 360 dashboard menu. It's actually always there, but just harder to see with other images. It even shows up with the PS3 via HDMI, so I'm assuming it's not the connection.

Might I have some electrical interference with the cable that runs from the media box to the panel? That's about all I can think of. Or are all of the 4360/5360 like this and the noise is just so insignificant that nobody complains?I have it a lot, too, on my new 1140. It bugs the living heck out of me sometimes. The Hi-Def and the upconverted SD on the 1080i/720p channels doesn't usually have it. It's especially evident on the 480i channels, and it doesn't matter if it's low or higher quality material being shown. My SD E* satellite signals, which are not so great to begin with, are just plain horrible-looking a lot of the time. But even my digital 480i OTA channels aren't very good. Some of my analog ones even look noticably better - they don't show any noise and are really clean. I usually have to crank up the mpeg noise control, sometimes to "high", and turn the sharpness down a lot. I also found that if you take it out of "Standard" screen mode and put it on "Game", (or even "Movie" as a 2nd choice), it cuts it down quite a bit. "Standard" is too bright and exposes it more.

I've never seen or had a plasma with such a bad problem with noise. I sometimes wonder if maybe something's wrong with it. I'm constantly debating whether I should bring it back when I'm watching SD, which is at least 85% of the time. It can be pretty tough to sit through.

The only thing I do know is that, in a few reviews I've read on Pio's, they mention that they tend to be very revealing of flaws and artifacts in low-quality sources. But even still, it does seem to be pretty excessive.

I had the Panny 50PX600U before this, and it didn't have anywhere near this extreme of a noise problem with 480i SD.

I've got my set plugged into a halfway decent line conditioner/supressor, so I don't think it's due to electrical interference. It doesn't show up at all with any of my other gear. My stereo has no background noise whatsoever, and is clean and as quiet as a mouse.

I have it a lot, too, on my new 1140. It bugs the living heck out of me sometimes. The Hi-Def and the upconverted SD on the 1080i/720p channels doesn't usually have it. It's especially evident on the 480i channels, and it doesn't matter if it's low or higher quality material being shown. My SD E* satellite signals, which are not so great to begin with, are just plain horrible-looking a lot of the time. But even my digital 480i OTA channels aren't very good. Some of my analog ones even look noticably better - they don't show any noise and are really clean. I usually have to crank up the mpeg noise control, sometimes to "high", and turn the sharpness down a lot. I also found that if you take it out of "Standard" screen mode and put it on "Game", (or even "Movie" as a 2nd choice), it cuts it down quite a bit. "Standard" is too bright and exposes it more.

I've never seen or had a plasma with such a bad problem with noise. I sometimes wonder if maybe something's wrong with it. I'm constantly debating whether I should bring it back when I'm watching SD, which is at least 85% of the time. It can be pretty tough to sit through.

The only thing I do know is that, in a few reviews I've read on Pio's, they mention that they tend to be very revealing of flaws and artifacts in low-quality sources. But even still, it does seem to be pretty excessive.

I had the Panny 50PX600U before this, and it didn't have anywhere near this extreme of a noise problem with 480i SD.

I've got my set plugged into a halfway decent line conditioner/supressor, so I don't think it's due to electrical interference. It doesn't show up at all with any of my other gear. My stereo has no background noise whatsoever, and is clean and as quiet as a mouse.

Does it look like dancing pixels.. that noise?

I have a PDP5060. I just bought the PS3. Using the Hdmi output i am receiving 1080i on my TV while veiwing movies. At least thats what my TV display says. So I wonder does that mean it converts the 1080p to 1080i?

Does it look like dancing pixels.. that noise?Not sure exactly what you mean, but no, not really. But I think the noise that I can describe the easiest is the stuff dancing all around the lettering, and I think that's mainly "mosquito" noise. It might also be what's affecting the other parts, but it doesn't stand out like it does in the solid space around letters. On faces and bodies there's more detail which jumbles it all more. There is some noticable "grain" on HD primetime shows which are film based, but it's not really that bad or distracting. Turning the sharpness down and the HD NR on helps. But taped shows, like the late-night talk shows, don't show any kind of noise or grain at all.

It's probably just that the Pio is more sensitive to the flaws. Like I mentioned, if I turn the mpeg NR on high and the sharpness way, way down it's not really noticable. But then, neither is much of the normal detail either. I'm gonna try different connections, but I can't get to it for a couple of days.

Not sure exactly what you mean, but no, not really. But I think the noise that I can describe the easiest is the stuff dancing all around the lettering, and I think that's mainly "mosquito" noise. It might also be what's affecting the other parts, but it doesn't stand out like it does in the solid space around letters. On faces and bodies there's more detail which jumbles it all more. There is some noticable "grain" on HD primetime shows which are film based, but it's not really that bad or distracting. Turning the sharpness down and the HD NR on helps. But taped shows, like the late-night talk shows, don't show any kind of noise or grain at all.

It's probably just that the Pio is more sensitive to the flaws. Like I mentioned, if I turn the mpeg NR on high and the sharpness way, way down it's not really noticable. But then, neither is much of the normal detail either. I'm gonna try different connections, but I can't get to it for a couple of days.

I mean it looks as if the pixels are kinda, jumping around a bit. Kinda noticeable in solid colors. But I think your talking about something different all together. There is definte noise on the Pioneers. It bothered me at first, but then I began to notice noise on all displays. Maybe my mind just kind of tricked itself into looking for any type of noise.

Anyway I have all but forgotten the noise. Especially with good feeds like Blu-Ray and HD-DVD. I don't even have any noise reduction on. I think this is all eye to eye correct? Some people are sensitive to it vs. not? My eyes adapted pretty quick it seems.

I have a PDP5060. I just bought the PS3. Using the Hdmi output i am receiving 1080i on my TV while veiwing movies. At least thats what my TV display says. So I wonder does that mean it converts the 1080p to 1080i?

Your 5060 does not have any 1080p inputs so your PS3 is outputting 1080i to the TV. I believe the newer 5070 accepts 1080p.

If the 1130 can receive 1080p24 via HDMI from the Pio BD player, as NemoZorro has confirmed, then it should be able to receive 1080p24 from any player that can output that resolution/frame rate, regardless of manufacturer.

I would also think this is true. What I don't know is if the non-Elites can accept the 1080p/24 input; I can only verify that the 1130 (and I assume the 930) can.

Your 5060 does not have any 1080p inputs so your PS3 is outputting 1080i to the TV. I believe the newer 5070 accepts 1080p.

I cannot confirm if the 5060 accepts a 1080p/24 input or not, but I know that the Elite 1130 does because I'm doing it now. If the PS3 is capable of outputing the 1080p/24 over HDMI, is configured to do so, and the 5060 displays 1080i, then that might be confirmation that the 5060 can't input that signal.

I mean it looks as if the pixels are kinda, jumping around a bit. Kinda noticeable in solid colors. But I think your talking about something different all together. There is definte noise on the Pioneers. It bothered me at first, but then I began to notice noise on all displays. Maybe my mind just kind of tricked itself into looking for any type of noise.Actually, I do know what you're referring to. At least I think I do. It's only there or noticable on certain sources. That might be part of the mixture of all-around noise, but it's not the whole thing.

I'm sure it's all just compression artifacts, and the display just shows them more. I was thinking about getting one of those Algolith Fleas, but they're just too damned expensive. Actually, my satellite channels didn't look that bad today. After having the TV for over a week now, I think I'm getting things adjusted a bit better. It's still a little too soft though, because I've got the sharpness down so low. That's where the Flea would help. Maybe if I can find one for the right price, I'll get it. It'll also bring the detail out, too.

Those of you who use the TV guide have you noticed since the time change that the time of the TV does not match the Guide. Also when I change the channel it doesn't show the program. I have to press the guide button to see what program is on.

I talked to support and they said its a known problem and theirs no patch for it. It will fix itself in April. That sucks I use a cable card so I have to deal with it. They better come out with a fix. I think I'll shoot them an email to complain.

Thanks for the update on that. I've noticed that as well and it kinda bothered me. I noticed it right after the daylight saving time began. I figured it had something to do with it being early.

It's disappointing that they couldn't have fixed it before it started. But on the other hand, it's relieving to know that it's not just me.

Thanks for the update on that. I've noticed that as well and it kinda bothered me. I noticed it right after the daylight saving time began. I figured it had something to do with it being early.

It's disappointing that they couldn't have fixed it before it started. But on the other hand, it's relieving to know that it's not just me.

There was some discussion about this in the 7g thread - what I got out of it is that Pioneer was looking into a fix but was not sure it could come out before the regular day for DST. Also that the early change affected more than just Pioneer; potentially anyone who uses the TVG could have the same problem. Technically, it would appear that it is a TVG issue that the CEs have to deal with.

Either way hopefully it will be resolved before the next time change.

Hello everyone,

I have a homemade UHF (bowtie) antenna which I hooked up to my dishnetwork reciever and my Infocus 4805. I managed to get a few HD channels as well as some SD channels. I decided that I wanted to test it out on my PDP-4360 to see if I can get the same HD channels. When it scanned the channels it only found regular SD channels and no HD. I called Pioneer and the tech had no clue as to what I was trying to do. Since, I was talking to a brick wall, I figured I would ask people that actually have this plasma for help.

Is this plasma capable to recieving HDTV signals OTA?

Thanks,

Dante1

I have the 4360 and have gotten OTA HD Signals. Currently I don't have the antenna hooked up to it, since I am getting digital cables signals. But I have had just a cheapo antenna hooked up earlier in the year.

The only thing to be aware of is that the 4360 has 2 coax inputs, A & B. Input A is capable of receiving HD (digital) signal, but B is not. B will only pick up normal SD nondigital channels.

But I guess if your antenna is hooked up to A, then this doesn't really help you out.

--Nick

1st post. I've been reading these forums non-stop since my previous TV was stolen due to my house being robbed.

I want to replace my television soon, and after reading everything I can handle, comparing prices all over the place, etc. I have come down to two televisions.

The Pioneer 5070HD or the Hitachi 55HDT79.

I really can't decide between these two. I honestly don't care one bit about the frame, remote, etc. I care most about picture quality.

Can anyone give me some feedback as two how these two compare in terms of picture quality? From everything I read, they are both great, so I'm probably nitpicking at this point, but any advice would really help me make my decision.

Thank you.

1st post. I've been reading these forums non-stop since my previous TV was stolen due to my house being robbed.

I want to replace my television soon, and after reading everything I can handle, comparing prices all over the place, etc. I have come down to two televisions.

The Pioneer 5070HD or the Hitachi 55HDT79.

I really can't decide between these two. I honestly don't care one bit about the frame, remote, etc. I care most about picture quality.

Can anyone give me some feedback as two how these two compare in terms of picture quality? From everything I read, they are both great, so I'm probably nitpicking at this point, but any advice would really help me make my decision.

Thank you.

You might want to ask this question in the 7g thread here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=672745

Haven't seen the Hitachi so I can't really comment, but the PQ on the 5070 is very nice. Depends on what features you are looking for. One thing the 5070 will do that is unique is that it will accept a 1080p/24 signal, even though it won't display at 1080p, it does help reduce judder for Blu-ray or HD-DVD players.

You might want to ask this question in the 7g thread here:

Eh, sorry about that! Thank you for pointing me in the right direction!

hello all,

first off i would like to thank everybody here for their input and reviews over the last couple of years of reading this forum.

i have been pretty much a fence sitter between plazma and lcd for a while now though when i am in the local stores i am always drawn to the plazma's over the lcd's.

now i am ready to buy and i decided to go with plazma. have been ready for while but something always came up and i would have to spend my new tv money on a need instead of a want.

my question's are these. i found pioneer pro 1130 for sale for a good price from 123 buy direct and was wondering if anybody knew anything good or bad about 123 buy direct?

also would i be better off getting the pioneer pro 1140 or the 1130? i know the 1140 is the newest but how does it compare with 1130? <--- that is the question i really want answered from somebody who has had a chance to compare between the two.

i know i would save quite a bit of money by buying the last generation panel but what would i be sacrificing?

regards,

jw

Eh, sorry about that! Thank you for pointing me in the right direction!

No worries mate!

hello all,

first off i would like to thank everybody here for their input and reviews over the last couple of years of reading this forum.

i have been pretty much a fence sitter between plazma and lcd for a while now though when i am in the local stores i am always drawn to the plazma's over the lcd's.

now i am ready to buy and i decided to go with plazma. have been ready for while but something always came up and i would have to spend my new tv money on a need instead of a want.

my question's are these. i found pioneer pro 1130 for sale for a good price from 123 buy direct and was wondering if anybody knew anything good or bad about 123 buy direct?

also would i be better off getting the pioneer pro 1140 or the 1130? i know the 1140 is the newest but how does it compare with 1130? <--- that is the question i really want answered from somebody who has had a chance to compare between the two.

i know i would save quite a bit of money by buying the last generation panel but what would i be sacrificing?

regards,

jw

I have the 1130 and have seen the 1140. The biggest reason at the time for the 1140 was the 1080p/24 input for Blu-ray or HD-DVD in my mind, but that was negated when I was pleasantly surprised that the 1130 accepted that input as well, it just wasn't documented!

There may be some incremental black level gains PQ wise, but nothing to write home about. The 1140 has a networking feature which some find useful. It also does not have the media receiver; personally I like the media receiver - keeps wires to the plasma at a minimum.

PQ wise I don't think you will see much of a difference - as long as you know the 1130 is new that is what I would recommend and save the bucks for something else. I could not be more satisfied with the 1130!

The biggest reason at the time for the 1140 was the 1080p/24 input for Blu-ray or HD-DVD in my mind, but that was negated when I was pleasantly surprised that the 1130 accepted that input as well, it just wasn't documented!

There may be some incremental black level gains PQ wise, but nothing to write home about. The 1140 has a networking feature which some find useful. It also does not have the media receiver; personally I like the media receiver - keeps wires to the plasma at a minimum.

PQ wise I don't think you will see much of a difference - as long as you know the 1130 is new that is what I would recommend and save the bucks for something else. I could not be more satisfied with the 1130!


Iambasic,

What Nemo wrote. Also, one other advantage of the 1140 is its resolution is 1365x768, wheras the 1130 is 1280x768, which amounts to 7% more pixels (and depending on the signal, resolution). I believe the 1130 is slightly less-deep than the 1140, since it doesn't have tuners/connectors built-in, so it has a slimmer profile.

If the difference in price is substantial, you'd be crazy not to go with the 1130. Not sure whether the warranty is in effect from the 123 dealer you're considering

thank you NemoZorro and Jediphish for your replies.

i spent the afternoon and some of the evening now looking up customer reviews for several of the sites that have the 1130.

well i was all ready to pull the trigger but waited to late into the day to get in contact with anybody from a couple of places i found the 1130 for sale online. i want to speak to them in person over the phone and ask them about warranty and whether product is brand new or not.

so i'll have to wait until tomorrow. this is good though as it gives me some more time to think it over. Roman from invision displays gave me a good quote on the 5070, so i am kicking that around too!

I bought my 4360 in December of 2005 and yesterday I heard a loud pop when I turned on the tv. The screen blinked for a few minutes and went completely dark. I turned it off and on again and now I can only see picture on the top half of the screen and the bottom half is all distorted.

Luckily it's still under warranty and Pioneer is going to send a replacement unit soon.

Anyone else experienced a similar problem?

NEED help!!! :o

for a couple of weeks now, my Elite 1130's box has been making a humming noise when it is off or on. Yesterday it just got worst, and when I tried to figure out what is going on, looks like the fan in the back is on and in high speed, even if the unit is completely off!!! :confused:

I called Pioneer and they said I would have to have it serviced, but I'm wondering if anyone has had this problem and if there is a easy way to fix it?

much appreciated.

ps- the noise stops for a couple of seconds when you first power the TV, but then it returns.

Does anyone know the easiest way I can get static ("snow")across the entire screen? I understand that this will help wash any IR from your display.

I am having a hard time removing IR that is hanging around from my Dishnetwork channel guide. In particular the words Dish and TV which are white surrounded by darker colors.

I do have my brightness turned down to -4 and contrast at 28 and still get IR. I've tried turning both up and running DiscoveryHD for many hours straight and that helps but the same IR soon comes back after a couple of days. What ****** me off is that the guide is usually only up for maybe 30 seconds per hour at most.

Does anyone know the easiest way I can get static ("snow")across the entire screen? I understand that this will help wash any IR from your display.

I am having a hard time removing IR that is hanging around from my Dishnetwork channel guide. In particular the words Dish and TV which are white surrounded by darker colors.

I do have my brightness turned down to -4 and contrast at 28 and still get IR. I've tried turning both up and running DiscoveryHD for many hours straight and that helps but the same IR soon comes back after a couple of days. What ****** me off is that the guide is usually only up for maybe 30 seconds per hour at most.

Don't know how to do the static thing, but here is a link to a breakin DVD that will alternate full screen colors. It is also great for getting rid of IR and goes for 16 hours at a time.

http://www.eaprogramming.com/downloads/downloads.htm

It might take a while, but if it is IR it should go away. You might also check out this thread that talks about breaking in the set to help reduce IR.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=731242

NEED help!!! :o

for a couple of weeks now, my Elite 1130's box has been making a humming noise when it is off or on. Yesterday it just got worst, and when I tried to figure out what is going on, looks like the fan in the back is on and in high speed, even if the unit is completely off!!! :confused:

I called Pioneer and they said I would have to have it serviced, but I'm wondering if anyone has had this problem and if there is a easy way to fix it?

much appreciated.

ps- the noise stops for a couple of seconds when you first power the TV, but then it returns.

No, I hear the fan go on and off, but it is in a cabinet so it doesn't bother me. I think I remember way back in this thread that someone asked if they could get into the SM and turn the fan down or off, but I don't remember if that question got answered. Sorry - at least it isn't the panel which would be a pain to get services. Please report back what they find.

I bought my 4360 in December of 2005 and yesterday I heard a loud pop when I turned on the tv. The screen blinked for a few minutes and went completely dark. I turned it off and on again and now I can only see picture on the top half of the screen and the bottom half is all distorted.

Luckily it's still under warranty and Pioneer is going to send a replacement unit soon.

Anyone else experienced a similar problem?

Ouch - glad it is under warranty. Make sure you are using something to condition your power just in case it was a surge that caused it.

No, I hear the fan go on and off, but it is in a cabinet so it doesn't bother me. I think I remember way back in this thread that someone asked if they could get into the SM and turn the fan down or off, but I don't remember if that question got answered. Sorry - at least it isn't the panel which would be a pain to get services. Please report back what they find.
i searched this thread, and seems that the fan will need replacement with a newer fan which is quieter.

I setup a service appointment for this

i searched this thread, and seems that the fan will need replacement with a newer fan which is quieter.

I setup a service appointment for this

Cool - pun intended! :cool:

Don't know how to do the static thing, but here is a link to a breakin DVD that will alternate full screen colors. It is also great for getting rid of IR and goes for 16 hours at a time.

http://www.eaprogramming.com/downloads/downloads.htm

It might take a while, but if it is IR it should go away. You might also check out this thread that talks about breaking in the set to help reduce IR.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=731242

Thanks for the reply.

I've acutually had my display for over a year now and did break it in. I also have the break in disk but the iso version that I have will not play on my Toshiba A2 and I don't have a way to burn the newer DVD version.

Does anyone know the easiest way I can get static ("snow")across the entire screen? I understand that this will help wash any IR from your display.

I am having a hard time removing IR that is hanging around from my Dishnetwork channel guide. In particular the words Dish and TV which are white surrounded by darker colors.

I do have my brightness turned down to -4 and contrast at 28 and still get IR. I've tried turning both up and running DiscoveryHD for many hours straight and that helps but the same IR soon comes back after a couple of days. What ****** me off is that the guide is usually only up for maybe 30 seconds per hour at most.

I always get static by accident when pressing the remote. Here's what you need to do:

1) Make sure you don't have any antennas attached to any of your coax connections (ie. over the air connection)
2) Turn on the TV and with the TV remote, hit either channel up or channel down.
This step automatically puts you into the TV's built-in tuner.

This procedure assumes you are going to the TV using HDMI or component. Notice in step 2 that I specifically mentioned "TV remote" as opposed to "cable/satellite" remote. If you have programmed your cable/sattelite remote into your TV remote, make sure the Mode Switch at the top has "TV" selected (farthest left).

I always get static by accident when pressing the remote. Here's what you need to do:

1) Make sure you don't have any antennas attached to any of your coax connections (ie. over the air connection)
2) Turn on the TV and with the TV remote, hit either channel up or channel down.
This step automatically puts you into the TV's built-in tuner.

This procedure assumes you are going to the TV using HDMI or component. Notice in step 2 that I specifically mentioned "TV remote" as opposed to "cable/satellite" remote. If you have programmed your cable/sattelite remote into your TV remote, make sure the Mode Switch at the top has "TV" selected (farthest left).

Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately I still can't get it to happen. I pressed channel up and down and went back and forth several times and still nothing but a black screen with a box in the lower left hand corner showing antenna A or B and channel number.

I do not have any antennas connected. However, when I press the "Ant" button static appears for only about a second and then the screen goes black with the same box showing antenna A or B and the channel number.

My only two connections are E sat receiver and A2 both via HDMI.

Any ideas?

Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately I still can't get it to happen. I pressed channel up and down and went back and forth several times and still nothing but a black screen with a box in the lower left hand corner showing antenna A or B and channel number.

I do not have any antennas connected. However, when I press the "Ant" button static appears for only about a second and then the screen goes black with the same box showing antenna A or B and the channel number.

My only two connections are E sat receiver and A2 both via HDMI.

Any ideas?

Just read this in another thread. Give it a try.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10209886&&#post10209886

Does anyone know the easiest way I can get static ("snow")across the entire screen? I understand that this will help wash any IR from your display.

I am having a hard time removing IR that is hanging around from my Dishnetwork channel guide. In particular the words Dish and TV which are white surrounded by darker colors.

I do have my brightness turned down to -4 and contrast at 28 and still get IR. I've tried turning both up and running DiscoveryHD for many hours straight and that helps but the same IR soon comes back after a couple of days. What ****** me off is that the guide is usually only up for maybe 30 seconds per hour at most.


I have the same problem as you do. The word "Dish" from the Dish Network Logo in the upper left hand corner is burned into my 4361 (I broke in my TV for at least 100 hours btw). As a result I've changed my brightness to -2 and contrast to 22 since last December and haven't used the guide at all. However, I can still see the logo slightly.

Looks like I'll have to find a way to burn the break in disc, dvd version. Can anyone confirm if it will play on the A2?

Looks like I'll have to find a way to burn the break in disc, dvd version. Can anyone confirm if it will play on the A2?

Can't confirm, but it should as it plays just like a regular DVD. Send me a PM if you haven't gotten the DVD yet.

4360 PDP.

Quick question related to input config:

I am hoping to be able to use HDMI on both inputs 1 and 3, but also use component on input 3...

Can that be done?
Or is it a case of one or the other regarding the HDMI/component inputs on 1 and 3?

If it can be done, can you switch between them with out too much complication?

I have a harmony 550 that is doing fine switching my inputs as I change activities so far, but I haven't tried adding the HDMI device to input 3 (which is currently using component) yet...

(and before any one suggests it, no my HK AVR 145 audio receiver does not have HDMI, so I am by passing it and going straight the the PDP with video inputs.)
Plus - I like the idea of having different picture settings for the DVD player, PVR, etc, on the Pioneer inputs)
Also - I don't want to use the componet in on the front panel (input 4) because that is ugly for a permanent set-up, but it is fine for a temp hook up when friends bring over the PS3 :cool:


thanks

4360 PDP.

Quick question related to input config:

I am hoping to be able to use HDMI on both inputs 1 and 3, but also use component on input 3...

Can that be done?
Or is it a case of one or the other regarding the HDMI/component inputs on 1 and 3?

If it can be done, can you switch between them with out too much complication?

I have a harmony 550 that is doing fine switching my inputs as I change activities so far, but I haven't tried adding the HDMI device to input 3 (which is currently using component) yet...

(and before any one suggests it, no my HK AVR 145 audio receiver does not have HDMI, so I am by passing it and going straight the the PDP with video inputs.)
Plus - I like the idea of having different picture settings for the DVD player, PVR, etc, on the Pioneer inputs)
Also - I don't want to use the componet in on the front panel (input 4) because that is ugly for a permanent set-up, but it is fine for a temp hook up when friends bring over the PS3 :cool:


thanks

If it's anything like my PRO1130HD, then the answer is no. Input 3 has a shared HDMI/component input. You have to choose one or the other and that is done in the TV setup menu. As far as I know, you cannot program what you want input 3 to be using the Harmony (I own the 880 and can't do it). As you feared, I ended up having to connect my component input to the front of the media receiver (input 4). My devices are in a TV stand with doors so it's not as ugly and it allowed me to have different calibration settings for each input.

I've since purchased a receiver with full HDMI capabilities so this is no longer an issue. However, I did lose the ability to have different settings "in memory" with the TV since now it's just one HDMI cable to the media receiver. I've explored getting the SR+ link cable but it is very difficult to find outside of ordering direct from Pioneer.

If it's anything like my PRO1130HD, then the answer is no. Input 3 has a shared HDMI/component input. You have to choose one or the other and that is done in the TV setup menu. As far as I know, you cannot program what you want input 3 to be using the Harmony (I own the 880 and can't do it). As you feared, I ended up having to connect my component input to the front of the media receiver (input 4). My devices are in a TV stand with doors so it's not as ugly and it allowed me to have different calibration settings for each input.

I've since purchased a receiver with full HDMI capabilities so this is no longer an issue. However, I did lose the ability to have different settings "in memory" with the TV since now it's just one HDMI cable to the media receiver. I've explored getting the SR+ link cable but it is very difficult to find outside of ordering direct from Pioneer.

I have the 4360 and can concur. You'd have to go through Option menu and enable or disable HDMI to switch between component and HDMI. You'd have to use a menu browsing macro and Harmony's don't lend themself to this type of macro very easily. Would be nice if there were a code that just switched the two. I ended buying an HDMI switch since I was gonna need more than two HDMI inputs anyway... My receiver is way to old for HDMI but still does everything else I want fine.

If it's anything like my PRO1130HD, then the answer is no.

damn... :(
thanks guys...

I am an editor, so it is a computer that I want to hook up for previewing edits, and it is about 30 feet away from the PDP... so I assume I need to use a digital connection? You can't send component that far can you - and it would be expensive cabling if you could, right?
- what I am thinking of doing is seending a DVI cable all the way, and then converting it to VGA with an adapter at the MR end and hooking up to the front VGA port when needed, and then disconnecting the cable when I am not using it.
Does that sound like a viable plan?
Is it an option to send DVI most of the way and then convert it to component near the MR?

thanks.

damn... :(
thanks guys...

I am an editor, so it is a computer that I want to hook up for previewing edits, and it is about 30 feet away from the PDP... so I assume I need to use a digital connection? You can't send component that far can you - and it would be expensive cabling if you could, right?
- what I am thinking of doing is seending a DVI cable all the way, and then converting it to VGA with an adapter at the MR end and hooking up to the front VGA port when needed, and then disconnecting the cable when I am not using it.
Does that sound like a viable plan?
Is it an option to send DVI most of the way and then convert it to component near the MR?

thanks.
You can run 30ft component.
A 30ft component cord can cost all kinds of amounts, the price ranges on those are ridiculous for cords that do the same thing, Online you can find them for a lot less than in many stores (the same quality cable). You can also cut down on the component cost if you do a little do it yourself. Go to you local Home Depot equivalent, by some RG-6 and some F-type to RCA connectors, something to label the cords and that will be of higher quality as most component cables...

Does your computer have VGA out? Why not just by a 30ft VGA instead of trying to convert the DVI to VGA? VGA cords are very inexpensive.

DVI-D to VGA would be really expensive. If you have DVI-I or DVI-A it wouldn't be as expensive.

I've explored getting the SR+ link cable but it is very difficult to find outside of ordering direct from Pioneer.


You can get an SR+ cable for about $5.

-----------------------------------------------

Go to ebay and type this in the search box:

"3.5mm Mini AV male/male plug camcorder A/V patch cable"

That's the one you need.

------------------------------------------------

This suggestion was made to me by a poster here named Nuzy. I followed his advice and got one when I purchased my Elite PDP and AV receiver.

You can get an SR+ cable for about $5.

-----------------------------------------------

Go to ebay and type this in the search box:

"3.5mm Mini AV male/male plug camcorder A/V patch cable"

That's the one you need.

------------------------------------------------

This suggestion was made to me by a poster here named Nuzy. I followed his advice and got one when I purchased my Elite PDP and AV receiver.

That's exactly what I need. Thank you!

No more checking the receiver volume on the receiver as it should display on the TV screen now. My understanding is that all/most HDMI connections should be from the source device to the TV now (except players that require decoding in the receiver, like PCM)?

Does your computer have VGA out? Why not just by a 30ft VGA instead of trying to convert the DVI to VGA? VGA cords are very inexpensive.


I didn't want to run 30 feet of any kind of analogue. do yo uthink VGA would look any good at 30 feet away? I have seeen it degrade in 12 foot runs.
(anyway, my machine doesn't have VGA out)
I figured keep it clean and digital (DVI) for the majority of the run, and then convert it to analogue with an adapter (VGA or Component) at the MR end...

I didn't want to run 30 feet of any kind of analogue. do yo uthink VGA would look any good at 30 feet away? I have seeen it degrade in 12 foot runs.
(anyway, my machine doesn't have VGA out)
I figured keep it clean and digital (DVI) for the majority of the run, and then convert it to analogue with an adapter (VGA or Component) at the MR end...

Digital can degrade too (but how it looks when there is degradation will be different), in both cases it depends on the quality of the cable. The original spec for DVI only specified 15'. I've run 15' feet component with no degredation, but nothing further, so I can't speak from first hand experience.

Do you have DVI-I or DVI-D (or possibly even DVI-A) coming from your computer? The reason I ask is that that if it is DVI-D then you'll need more than a simple cable to convert it to VGA or component (you'll need a converter and these are pricy). If you have DVI-I and you use a DVI-> component cable the whole signal is analog anyway.
DVI-I (analog and digital, but put a VGA or component cable on it and it is adapting the analog signal).
DVI-D (digital only)

I bought an 1130 last year and it came with a Transcend compact flash adapter and a 5-in-1 adapter. Is it me or did Pioneer supply this with their Elite plasmas?

I bought an 1130 last year and it came with a Transcend compact flash adapter and a 5-in-1 adapter. Is it me or did Pioneer supply this with their Elite plasmas?


The card adapters come with the 1130 from Pioneer.

The Elite FHD1 does not come with speakers?

The Elite FHD1 does not come with speakers?

It is a monitor only. No built in tuners either!

Hi-

I am experiencing an issue with my 1130. I searched the thread & found a couple of other folks with a similar issue but did not see a formal resolution to the problem.

At times, I am getting a split-second dropout of the video. The screen just goes to black for a very brief moment. Sometimes, it repeats itself as fast as 10 seconds apart. It only seems to happen if the set has been on for a couple of hours so I am wondering if it may be heat-related. Evidence that it may not be heat-related though was posted by rudyr in this thread that he was having the same issue & his MR was all by itself on a shelf.

Also, not sure if this is related or not, but my set is also shutting itself off sometimes. I researched this on the thread also. My TV guide is inactive (zip set to all zeroes) & the TV auto shut-down option is not active. I am not getting a flickering light when the display shuts off, it just turns itself off.

Both issues are occurring while watching TV via cable.

I need to get a longer media cable - that two-headed serpent that runs between the Elite 1130HD media box and the monitor. Is there a way to do this without spending hundreds of dollars, or without introducing signal issues/degradation? I'd also consider coupling an extension to the existing cable especially if the latter would not be an issue.

Hi-

I am experiencing an issue with my 1130. I searched the thread & found a couple of other folks with a similar issue but did not see a formal resolution to the problem.

At times, I am getting a split-second dropout of the video. The screen just goes to black for a very brief moment. Sometimes, it repeats itself as fast as 10 seconds apart. It only seems to happen if the set has been on for a couple of hours so I am wondering if it may be heat-related. Evidence that it may not be heat-related though was posted by rudyr in this thread that he was having the same issue & his MR was all by itself on a shelf.

Also, not sure if this is related or not, but my set is also shutting itself off sometimes. I researched this on the thread also. My TV guide is inactive (zip set to all zeroes) & the TV auto shut-down option is not active. I am not getting a flickering light when the display shuts off, it just turns itself off.

Both issues are occurring while watching TV via cable.

You will need to tell us your full setup (ie., receiver, cable box, line conditioner, etc.) before we can correctly diagnose your problem. The dropouts sound like handshake issues with your receiver/cable box. The shutoffs may be fluctuating voltage? Again, without your full setup, I'm grasping at straws.

I need to get a longer media cable - that two-headed serpent that runs between the Elite 1130HD media box and the monitor. Is there a way to do this without spending hundreds of dollars, or without introducing signal issues/degradation? I'd also consider coupling an extension to the existing cable especially if the latter would not be an issue.

I asked this question on here a few months ago. A few people chimed in. One person said to use a straighthrough DFP20 for the control cable and a DVI-D for the other one. I never pursued this, because it was still more than I was willing to pay for a stinkin' cable.

Let us know what you find out, because if you find a cheap enough option, I may consider doing it too.

You will need to tell us your full setup (ie., receiver, cable box, line conditioner, etc.) before we can correctly diagnose your problem. The dropouts sound like handshake issues with your receiver/cable box. The shutoffs may be fluctuating voltage? Again, without your full setup, I'm grasping at straws.

I have a Moxi DVR via Charter cable, older Yamaha receiver, Polk SurroundBar speaker & Polk sub. I do not have a line conditioner.

I have a Moxi DVR via Charter cable, older Yamaha receiver, Polk SurroundBar speaker & Polk sub. I do not have a line conditioner.

Older Yamaha receiver meaning w/HDMI or w/o? A model number would help. If you are going straight from the cable box to the TV, then it won't matter.

Older Yamaha receiver meaning w/HDMI or w/o? A model number would help. If you are going straight from the cable box to the TV, then it won't matter.

I am not using HDMI. The receiver is a Pioneer VSX-D509S (not Yamaha as I indicated earlier). I am technically challenged but know that I have a straight-forward setup using component cables via the Moxi DVR.

Thanks for the assistance.

Hi Guys,

I purchased an elite pro-1140 a little over a year ago without any problems. However, I was recently watching ESPN HD on DirecTV and noticed some (5 or 6) pixels getting stuck at the center of the screen which appeared red for a second and then would disappear.

Questions: Can this issue become a problem I should be concerned about? Should I begin to worry and contact pioneer service support to address this issue before the warranty expires?

Please advise.

Thanks,
George

I am not using HDMI. The receiver is a Pioneer VSX-D509S (not Yamaha as I indicated earlier). I am technically challenged but know that I have a straight-forward setup using component cables via the Moxi DVR.

Thanks for the assistance.

Do you have a DVD player and does your 1130 exhibit the same behavior while watching DVD's? Which input do you have your component connected to? Input 1, 3 or Input 4?

If you have an outdoor antenna, try connecting it to one of your RF connections since your TV has a built-in HD tuner (use only the ANT/CABLE A IN). If you still have problems, then it's the TV. If not, then it's your Moxi DVR.

Regardless of device, make sure everything is well ventilated. It also wouldn't hurt to power off your Moxi, wait 10 sec, then turn it back on to "reboot" and let it update its own firmware if need be.

Hi Guys,

I purchased an elite pro-1140 a little over a year ago without any problems. However, I was recently watching ESPN HD on DirecTV and noticed some (5 or 6) pixels getting stuck at the center of the screen which appeared red for a second and then would disappear.

Questions: Can this issue become a problem I should be concerned about? Should I begin to worry and contact pioneer service support to address this issue before the warranty expires?

Please advise.

Thanks,
George

It may have been an issue with the broadcast... it is weird that it would apear and then go away.
Did it occur over several shots or just one shot? (what I am getting at is that it may have been an issue with one of the cameras (which would explain why it apeared and then disapeared.)

Everything I have read about plasma dead/stuck pixels, is that if you have them, they are there from the start and never get better. LCDs are a little different.

I have a 4360 that is getting close to a year old and it has been flawless.
Anytime I see what looks like it may be an issue witht he display, I flip chanels (or if watching a DVD, check another) to confirm that the issue is the media and not the hardware.
So far, everytime I have seen something weird, I have been able to trouble shoot and confirm the display was not the issue.

My ONLY complaint about the xx60 series is that the fan in the MR stays on 24/7.
I worry that it is asking for a shortened life by running the fan all the time.
Does anyone know the part number for that fan? I am considering getting a spare now, so that if (when) it fails in a couple years, I'll have the part ready to replace)

It may have been an issue with the broadcast... it is weird that it would apear and then go away.
Did it occur over several shots or just one shot? (what I am getting at is that it may have been an issue with one of the cameras (which would explain why it apeared and then disapeared.)

Everything I have read about plasma dead/stuck pixels, is that if you have them, they are there from the start and never get better. LCDs are a little different.

I have a 4360 that is getting close to a year old and it has been flawless.
Anytime I see what looks like it may be an issue witht he display, I flip chanels (or if watching a DVD, check another) to confirm that the issue is the media and not the hardware.
So far, everytime I have seen something weird, I have been able to trouble shoot and confirm the display was not the issue.

My ONLY complaint about the xx60 series is that the fan in the MR stays on 24/7.
I worry that it is asking for a shortened life by running the fan all the time.
Does anyone know the part number for that fan? I am considering getting a spare now, so that if (when) it fails in a couple years, I'll have the part ready to replace)

Schteevie,

Let me correct a typo and clarify. I have an elite 1130 not the 1140. The 1130 has been outstanding to date :) with the execption of the red pixel problem which seems to have gone away. :confused: The red pixel issue has not occured since then but as you can imagine I got nervious becuase of pixel issues I've heard other folks have experienced.

Thanks,
George

Schteevie,

Let me correct a typo and clarify. I have an elite 1130 not the 1140. The 1130 has been outstanding to date :) with the execption of the red pixel problem which seems to have gone away. :confused: The red pixel issue has not occured since then but as you can imagine I got nervious becuase of pixel issues I've heard other folks have experienced.

Thanks,
George

the 1130 has a media receiver right? (as opposed to the newerr models that are integrated with all the inputs on the back of the display like other manufacturers)
If so, is your fan running 24/7?

I am clueless with regards to hooking up my components & need some PIP help. I have an 1130 with cable service via a Moxi DVR. I was using the ANT A input for an OTA antenna but want to pull the antenna & split the cable signal.

The incoming cable coax is split with one section going to the DVR. The other split needs to go into the ANT A input, right? What else do I need to do with regards to component cables & channel setup? I want to use Input 2 for the second cable signal.

I am clueless with regards to hooking up my components & need some PIP help. I have an 1130 with cable service via a Moxi DVR. I was using the ANT A input for an OTA antenna but want to pull the antenna & split the cable signal.

The incoming cable coax is split with one section going to the DVR. The other split needs to go into the ANT A input, right? What else do I need to do with regards to component cables & channel setup? I want to use Input 2 for the second cable signal.

With this setup, you would not get 100% of your service as some of your cable channels will not show up in the Ant A without the cable box to descramble the signal. Doesn't your Moxi have PIP built in? I think most HD DVR's are at least dual-tuner.

With this setup, you would not get 100% of your service as some of your cable channels will not show up in the Ant A without the cable box to descramble the signal. Doesn't your Moxi have PIP built in? I think most HD DVR's are at least dual-tuner.

The Moxi is dual tuner. What do I do with the 2nd cable split to enable the PIP?

http://broadband.motorola.com/consumers/products/bmc9012/downloads/BMC9012_User_Guide.pdf

The Moxi is dual tuner. What do I do with the 2nd cable split to enable the PIP?

http://broadband.motorola.com/consumers/products/bmc9012/downloads/BMC9012_User_Guide.pdf

If your Moxi is dual-tuner, then you do not need to split the cable feed. Simply hitting the PIP button on your Moxi remote will bring up the other channel. The only thing you will miss is split screen (which will require splitting the cable lines). Split screen is not advisable on a plasma as you will have black bars on the top and bottom as it tries to keep the widescreen ratio for both channels (assuming both channels are HD).

Your simplest setup would be this:

1) Single coaxial cable from the wall to the Moxi DVR.
2) Component cable from the Moxi DVR to your 1130 media receiver.
3) When you want PIP, simply hit the PIP button on your Moxi remote. There should be channel buttons for the PIP screen on your remote as well.

If you absolutely must have split screen, then you have to do what you originally suggested with splitting the cable line but you will lose some cable channels in Ant A on the MR w/o the cable box.

I just checked your Moxi manual and apparently PIP is not supported in the DVR (poor use of dual-tuner). Do what you suggested and let us know if you run into any problems, other than not getting all your cable channels.

For what it's worth, your Moxi has a DVI connector in the back. You can purchase a HDMI/DVI cable which will be a slight improvement over your component connection. If you are fine with the picture as is, then don't worry about the $60-$80 investment in the cable.

If your Moxi is dual-tuner, then you do not need to split the cable feed. Simply hitting the PIP button on your Moxi remote will bring up the other channel. The only thing you will miss is split screen (which will require splitting the cable lines). Split screen is not advisable on a plasma as you will have black bars on the top and bottom as it tries to keep the widescreen ratio for both channels (assuming both channels are HD).

Your simplest setup would be this:

1) Single coaxial cable from the wall to the Moxi DVR.
2) Component cable from the Moxi DVR to your 1130 media receiver.
3) When you want PIP, simply hit the PIP button on your Moxi remote. There should be channel buttons for the PIP screen on your remote as well.

If you absolutely must have split screen, then you have to do what you originally suggested with splitting the cable line but you will lose some cable channels in Ant A on the MR w/o the cable box.

The Moxi remote does not have a PIP option built-in unfortunately.

Last night I tried putting the split cable into ANT A in the Pio Media Box. I assumed that I need to do a channel setup at that point. But when I go the the channel setup option in the home menu it is grayed out. I pressed the ANT function on the remote & then ran the channel setup but it's not working.

My TV was set up for PIP at the time of the original install but I undid it to gain the OTA functions. And, like an idiot, I did not make note of the original setup.

The Moxi remote does not have a PIP option built-in unfortunately.

Last night I tried putting the split cable into ANT A in the Pio Media Box. I assumed that I need to do a channel setup at that point. But when I go the the channel setup option in the home menu it is grayed out. I pressed the ANT function on the remote & then ran the channel setup but it's not working.

My TV was set up for PIP at the time of the original install but I undid it to gain the OTA functions. And, like an idiot, I did not make note of the original setup.

Read my correction in the last post.

Instead of selecting "AIR" in the channel setup menu, select "CABLE" instead. This should switch to the QAM tuner which will give you most of your cable channels.

Read my correction in the last post.

Instead of selecting "AIR" in the channel setup menu, select "CABLE" instead. This should switch to the QAM tuner which will give you most of your cable channels.

I should clarify. Once I got into the "channel setup" menu, I did do the set-up for "Cable" via the Antenna A.

I was referring to pressing the "ANT" function on the remote to activate the channel setup option that is otherwise grayed out. Does that make sense? (I really appreciate the help)

For what it's worth, your Moxi has a DVI connector in the back. You can purchase a HDMI/DVI cable which will be a slight improvement over your component connection. If you are fine with the picture as is, then don't worry about the $60-$80 investment in the cable.

If it is for a shorter length, you can get a much less expensive DVI-HDMI cable, and the quality won't suffer. All the HDMI and DVI cables I have (all 2 meters or less) were $20.00 or less, bought online, and they work great with my HDMI switch and 4360.


The incoming cable coax is split with one section going to the DVR. The other split needs to go into the ANT A input, right? What else do I need to do with regards to component cables & channel setup? I want to use Input 2 for the second cable signal.


I have the 4360, and I don't know if the 1130 is the same, but for the 4360 I'm pretty sure input 2 doesn't have any HD (HDMI or component inputs). So if it is like the 4360 you might want to use Input 1 or 3 for the moxi.

I would suspect you could just leave your Moxi connection to the TV as is, and split the coax signal coming into the moxi and connect one end to the Moxi and one to Antenna A as you mention.


My TV was set up for PIP at the time of the original install but I undid it to gain the OTA functions. And, like an idiot, I did not make note of the original setup.


Hmm, I think you should have been able to do PIP with this setup too... with one of the sources being OTA and one being the Moxi....

I should clarify. Once I got into the "channel setup" menu, I did do the set-up for "Cable" via the Antenna A.

I was referring to pressing the "ANT" function on the remote to activate the channel setup option that is otherwise grayed out. Does that make sense? (I really appreciate the help)

I'm confused... :) what's not working? The cable channel scan? What happens when you scan?

I
I have the 4360, and I don't know if the 1130 is the same, but for the 4360 I'm pretty sure input 2 doesn't have any HD (HDMI or component inputs). So if it is like the 4360 you might want to use Input 1 or 3 for the moxi.

I am using Input 1 for the Moxi. I want to use Input 2 for the 2nd cable signal.

I would suspect you could just leave your Moxi connection to the TV as is, and split the coax signal coming into the moxi and connect one end to the Moxi and one to Antenna A as you mention.

That's why I'm trying but I'm not doing something right.

Hmm, I think you should have been able to do PIP with this setup too... with one of the sources being OTA and one being the Moxi....

I no longer need the OTA function. I want to be able to watch 2 cable programs at the same time (sports).

I'm confused... :) what's not working? The cable channel scan? What happens when you scan?

I'm confused too, trust me... ;)

When I do the cable channel scan, it scans for quite a while & then just comes back wiith some extremely snowy channels.

Am I supposed to push the "ANT" function on the remote before doing the channel set-up or is there another way to enable the channel setup mode?

Also, another really dumb question, how does my TV "know" that I want to use Input 2 for the split cable signal?

I'm confused too, trust me... ;)

When I do the cable channel scan, it scans for quite a while & then just comes back wiith some extremely snowy channels.

Am I supposed to push the "ANT" function on the remote before doing the channel set-up or is there another way to enable the channel setup mode?

Also, another really dumb question, how does my TV "know" that I want to use Input 2 for the split cable signal?

You CANNOT use an "input" for the "Ant A" connection. It is technically "ANT" on the remote and does not correspond to Input 1, 2, 3, etc. Does that make sense? Only the component connection from the Moxi can be assigned Input 1, 2, 3, etc. RF coaxial connections are NOT assigned "input." The "ANT" button is located under the Input "3" button in the upper right of the remote.

And yes, you should hit the "ANT" button before scanning for channels.

Also, another really dumb question, how does my TV "know" that I want to use Input 2 for the split cable signal?

Well it seems that everyone is confused about the issue. But my dumb question is how you put a cable signal into Input 2? Is it an output from the Moxi?

My advice would be to split your cable when it comes from the wall. Put 1 leg into Ant A and 1 leg into your Moxi. Then run the output from the Moxi into Input 1 on your TV. The only way this won't work is if your signal is scrambled and you have to use a digital receiver or cable card. I don't know enough about your set up I guess.

In my experience, that's how I have shown PIP. I use Mediacom and don't subscribe to their HD service or digital service. If you're doing that, it's a whole 'nother can of worms.

Hope we can help
--Nick

I'm confused too, trust me... ;)

When I do the cable channel scan, it scans for quite a while & then just comes back wiith some extremely snowy channels.

Am I supposed to push the "ANT" function on the remote before doing the channel set-up or is there another way to enable the channel setup mode?

Also, another really dumb question, how does my TV "know" that I want to use Input 2 for the split cable signal?


Sounds like you did what you are supposed to do. Make sure you were scanning with Antenna A and that you are viewing channels on antenna A. Try changing the channel a few times. QAM stations get mapped to some weird locations sometimes.

You don't get to assign inputs for coax signals. If you want to use cable QAM, you have to use Antenna A as the input for digital signals the TV must tune.


Others have already corrected you on the Input 2 issue... didn't mean to pile on :)

You CANNOT use an "input" for the "Ant A" connection. It is technically "ANT" on the remote and does not correspond to Input 1, 2, 3, etc. Does that make sense? Only the component connection from the Moxi can be assigned Input 1, 2, 3, etc. RF coaxial connections are NOT assigned "input." The "ANT" button is located under the Input "3" button in the upper right of the remote.

And yes, you should hit the "ANT" button before scanning for channels.

So, are you saying that maybe the channel scan that I did was correct & that I should press the "ANT" button to view the secondary cable programming?

So, are you saying that maybe the channel scan that I did was correct & that I should press the "ANT" button to view the secondary cable programming?
Yes.

So, are you saying that maybe the channel scan that I did was correct & that I should press the "ANT" button to view the secondary cable programming?

Your scan couldn't have been correct if all you're getting are snowy channels. Try scanning again after you've hit the "ANT" button and are sure Ant A is selected. As newlinux said, QAM tuners do funny things and the channel lineup you get may not correspond to the channel numbers you are used to from your cable service.

Guys -

Thanks very much for you help! I will check it out when I get home tonight & report back.

I just got home & tried the PIP setup again. I'm getting nothing besides some super-snowy channels. Does it sound like Charter just has everything scrambled to the point where there is now way to make this work?

I just got home & tried the PIP setup again. I'm getting nothing besides some super-snowy channels. Does it sound like Charter just has everything scrambled to the point where there is now way to make this work?

No with digital stations, you should basically either get them or not. Snowy is an artifact of analog stations. If you are sure you're using input A, then I've seen this problem a few times before (where it just stops tuning digital) in my set. What usually works for me is to unplug the set for about 30 seconds or so, then try again. I've had this problem switching between cable card, ATSC, and QAM. The 30 second unplug has always worked...

One thing I've not seen anyone mention is that when you do the channel scan on Ant A, if you have Cable connected to it, you need to select "Cable" from the menu. The fact that you have only tuned snowy channels leads me to believe that the tuner is trying to scan for over-the-air, terrestrial broadcast channels.

The "Cable" selection is to the right in the menu after selecting Ant A and Scan (or vise versa).

I should clarify. Once I got into the "channel setup" menu, I did do the set-up for "Cable" via the Antenna A.

I was referring to pressing the "ANT" function on the remote to activate the channel setup option that is otherwise grayed out. Does that make sense? (I really appreciate the help)

Cable has been mentioned.

No with digital stations, you should basically either get them or not. Snowy is an artifact of analog stations. If you are sure you're using input A, then I've seen this problem a few times before (where it just stops tuning digital) in my set. What usually works for me is to unplug the set for about 30 seconds or so, then try again. I've had this problem switching between cable card, ATSC, and QAM. The 30 second unplug has always worked...

I just scanned again making sure that I selected "ANT A" & then "CABLE". Still getting nothing but snowy channels (cable channels, not locals). I just unplugged everything to reset & will give it another whirl...

Arrrrgghhhhh!!!

Still no luck after unplugging & restarting everything (& rescanning).

Any other ideas?

Arrrrgghhhhh!!!

Still no luck after unplugging & restarting everything (& rescanning).

Any other ideas?

Hey, just for the sake of confirmation: Is your coaxial connection towards the top of the MR or towards the bottom? Ant B. will NOT take a cable signal.

Hey, just for the sake of confirmation: Is your coaxial connection towards the top of the MR or towards the bottom? Ant B. will NOT take a cable signal.

It's in the top - "ANT A".

It's in the top - "ANT A".

Have you tried replacing your current cable splitter with a different one to see if that is the problem? It also wouldn't hurt to make sure you only have one "IN" on the cable splitter and that it is coming from the wall instead of to the TV or cable box.

Have you tried replacing your current cable splitter with a different one to see if that is the problem? It also wouldn't hurt to make sure you only have one "IN" on the cable splitter and that it is coming from the wall instead of to the TV or cable box.

There is only 1 "IN" port on my splitter & that is getting the coax wall connection. I can try a different splitter tonight if I have one but it seems like a long shot. Is there some other thing that could be causing the channels to be picked up as analog vs. digital? I am seeing snowy versions of CNBC, etc.

There is only 1 "IN" port on my splitter & that is getting the coax wall connection. I can try a different splitter tonight if I have one but it seems like a long shot. Is there some other thing that could be causing the channels to be picked up as analog vs. digital? I am seeing snowy versions of CNBC, etc.

Is your cable splitter a conventional model or is it amplified? If it is, any little line noise will also be amplified.

Is your cable splitter a conventional model or is it amplified? If it is, any little line noise will also be amplified.

It is not amplified. It's a conventional 4-way splitter. I have the 2 unused ports terminated with a cover piece.

It is not amplified. It's a conventional 4-way splitter. I have the 2 unused ports terminated with a cover piece.

This probably won't solve anything but just a general recommendation. Use RG6 cable over RG59 whenever possible. Slightly thicker shielding. The next step up is probably overkill for home applications.

It is not amplified. It's a conventional 4-way splitter. I have the 2 unused ports terminated with a cover piece.
The only other thing I can think of is to try it without the splitter just to see if you can tune stations and if it is a signal strength issue. I think something else might be up if all you get are snowy channels however... This only happened to me when my digital tuner wasn't working. But powercycling the MR fixed it...

The only other thing I can think of is to try it without the splitter just to see if you can tune stations and if it is a signal strength issue. I think something else might be up if all you get are snowy channels however... This only happened to me when my digital tuner wasn't working. But powercycling the MR fixed it...

I'll try this tonight.

Thanks.

Well, after several more calls this a.m. with both my local dealer and the Pioneer tech support team I got an answer. Seems that the system needs a upgrade of the software microboards and there's a support facility about 100 miles away that can do it.

Once I got a hold of someone who knew their stuff it was a short discussion, he checked the software version and in two minutes had a answer for me. They will let me know when the new microboards are at their site and then I will take a drive to visit with the control box so they can do a 15-minute job to update it.

Aggie76, thanks for posting this. My 4360 had EXACTLY the same problem: watching HD channels all of a sudden the screen would turn black and only audio remained. Nothing was visible, no channel info, TVguide, etc until I changed to a SD-channel. This would happen rather randomly, but I contributed it to the ambient temperature and internal temperature of the MR.

For about a month now, this behavior hasn't occurred a single time -not sure what happened. I haven't taken the MR out to get serviced, so if an software update occurred, in came in over the cable. Not sure if that is possible though.

So I wonder, did you have your MR serviced? How are the results?

One, seemingly unrelated problem that remains is that my TVguide won't update anymore. "No data available" it says. Had Comcast reset the cable card on their end, but to no avail.

The only other thing I can think of is to try it without the splitter just to see if you can tune stations and if it is a signal strength issue. I think something else might be up if all you get are snowy channels however... This only happened to me when my digital tuner wasn't working. But powercycling the MR fixed it...

I give up.

I connected my main cable feed direct to ANT A (no splitter) & ran the channel scan. I am still just getting a snowy series of cable channels that correspond to the same set of cable channel numbers from around 10 - 70 (35 = ESPN, 36 = ESPN2, etc.).

I guess I could make a warranty claim, but this does not seem like a big issue unless I am not thinking of another potential use of Ant A. If so, please let me know.

Thanks to all for your suggestions.

I give up.

I connected my main cable feed direct to ANT A (no splitter) & ran the channel scan. I am still just getting a snowy series of cable channels that correspond to the same set of cable channel numbers from around 10 - 70 (35 = ESPN, 36 = ESPN2, etc.).

I guess I could make a warranty claim, but this does not seem like a big issue unless I am not thinking of another potential use of Ant A. If so, please let me know.

Thanks to all for your suggestions.

Sorry to read this. That's really the same thing that happens to me sometimes, until I unplug it. there must be something buggy in some of the sets. I think you should give pioneer a call, especially if you like picture in picture. Can you get OTA ATSC (digital stations) still?

Now my guide listings don't work... ):