Post all your questions and answers related to Stewart to this thread.
Please, no sales or marketing. It will be removed.

LydMekk

Sounds like you need a Firehawk.

Scott

Have got some prices for the ST 130. Compared to Da-Lite it's quite a leap upwards in price. My question is: is it worth it ?

Will the PICTURE be better with wither the Studiotek 130 or the Firehawk mentioned by Scottyb over than with the Da-Lite Cinema Vision ?

Anyone seen these alternatives and care to comment ?


Check this out:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/home_theater_screens.htm

Is it only possible to get the screen sizes that are on the stewart site... is the deluxe fram only available in 110" and 123" in 16:9.. nothing in between?

Just how good is the FireHawk at shedding ambient light? Right now, I'm torn between the FireHawk and the Da-Lite High Power. I'm leaning towards the High Power based on input from Tryg and also just on price. Strangely though, I haven't really been able to grasp how the FireHawk and High Power match up against one another.

My setup will be:

- 106" diagonal 16x9 screen: bottom edge 28" off the ground; top edge 6'8" off the ground
- primary seat is 12 feet from screen, dead center width wise, eyes are about 3'6" off the ground
- other seats are just to either side of primary seat (one on either side) and on a riser behind: all seats within 30 degrees of screen center (15 degrees to either side of center)
- projector is 13 feet from screen: center of lens is even with top of screen (6'8" off the ground)
- I will have total darkness for serious movie viewing
- Walls, ceiling, floor and furniture are all dark so reflected light should be at a minimum
- For TV and gatherings though, I will have some ambient light.
- Ambient light is still low and controlled: 4 x 60 Watt sconces; two on either side wall.
- Light from sconces goes up onto ceiling and down along wall.
- All 4 sconces are behind the projector

Now, I've heard that even though I've got a ceiling mount, the High Power will still perform better than most other screens with some ambient light. But I also have a setup that should work well for the FireHawk (at least according to Projector Central).

What I really want to hear are opinions or experience on the High Power vs. the FireHawk in my particular setup.

Thanks,

Jon

Is it only possible to get the screen sizes that are on the stewart site... is the deluxe fram only available in 110" and 123" in 16:9.. nothing in between?

No, they can do whatever size you need.

Do you have to pay extra for this... I´m wondering why they have certain sizes then on their website?

No, production just might take a little longer though. The reasoning for "standard" sizes is to allow people to do a quick-type spec for their screen. Kind of like shopping from a catalog. What takes longer with the custom screens is that the extrusions have to be custom cut for the frame, and the skin itself may need to wait for another order to be manufactured (make one very large section of material as opposed to several smaller ones- manufacturing efficiency).

Dan

Brilliant.. thanks!

No, that's not normal for Stewart. They have 3 different factories in the US, I don't believe any specialize. My first inclination is to say that there's an issue with the dealer. I had my Greyhawk RS (perfed) in 2 weeks from the production date ( 2 weeks from the time I was told it was going to production).

Just my .02

You could try to get the order number from your dealer (generated by Screen Assistant) and then call stewart to see what's up. Stewart P.O.s are done by SA, not by the last name of the customer-like most other manufacturers.

Dan

Generally US Stewart screens ship within 2-4 weeks depending on model. However, not sure for overseas sales how their lead times are. You should check with your local dealer to see what's up.

Good call, Jason!

I totally missed that LydMekk is located in Norway- yeah, that can add some serious time to screen shipment. (I waited 3 months for my buddy's Screen Research screen- they only send a boat ever once a month, and then there's customs....).

'Sorry about the oversight- my statements are probably inaccurate then.

Dan

I'll share my experience comparing firehawk to high power. I have a similar setup for projector mounting location, screen size, and viewing distance. Currently I'm just using blackout cloth, and am hard pressed to justify the marginal improvement I'll see in dark viewing for the expense. However, I find I'm doing more and more viewing with ambient light. So I ordered samples from Da-Lite and Stewart to check them out. I suggest you do the same (they were free).

In my evaluation I decided on the Firehawk. Although the high power does provide a higher gain image than other screens with a ceiling mount, it's depressing to stand up and see the image get much brighter and seemingly more vibrant. I think I would end up wanting to stand during movies! The firehawk provided the best picture in my actual viewing area. I also found it shed light better in ambient situations. The relative contrast between black and white were more profound to me, especially compared to the high power OUTSIDE of it's sweet spot.

Of all the materials I tested from Stewart and Da-lite only the high power and the firehawk were compelling enough of a difference from black out cloth for me to consider. FWIW the black out cloth was indistinguishable from matt white screen material. I hung both samples on my screen for a while just to see different situations. With lights on, I was always impressed with the firewhawk.

When it comes down to it though, you'll get used to what you have and until you see something better you won't really know what you're missing. With the high-power you'll always see what you're missing every time you stand up. That would drive me crazy! You may be different. Good Luck.

MM

The reason sometimes Stewarts take longer is that every screen they make is made from scratch. Its not like they have the material cut to size already waiting for it to be attached to the frame. Every time an order comes in, every piece of it has to be created from that moment so sometimes it takes a little longer. However, it worth the wait once you receive it because they put quality and lots of quality control into every screen you receive. I understand it can be fustrating to wait, but its worth the wait once you do

I´d recomend that noone would buy a firehawk without getting a sample. I notice the sparklies on the finish from my seating position and for that reason I´d never get it.
Is it not possible to have the splattery sparklies smaller and more consistant, it doesn´t sound that hard to to. The silverstar doesn´t have these sparkly splatters(but it has sheen which is another matter).

Was there never a rumour that they were working on an improved firehawk(I´d personally want it not so dark to lower the gain layer a little - for less hotspotting - and I´d like to see improved smoothness to the finish).

I have a Firehawk Luxus model A with the following problem: The edges are sticking to something and beginning to wear through the material. The problem is on the upper 1/3 of the screen, along the outside edges near the tab tensioners. It's almost as though the tension wires are rubbing when rolled up. I'm not sure how to fix this or stop it from getting worse. Anyone?

http://www.stewartfilmscreen.com/engineering_specifications/firehawk.html
Do stewart have a new version of the firehawk called "g2" out? The gain is 1.25 but it used to be 1.35.. I can´t open their .pdf for more info.

Anyone got more info on this?

Bump for details on the "G2" screen

Yes, they reformulated the formula in their laboratory (sounds sinister doesn't it) and came out with a screen that has less sparklies and also slightly less gain

Are stewart screens come preassembled or do the frames need to be assembled (fixed ones)

They need to be assembled, but it is SIMPLE.

Scott

The original version of the firehawk was suppose to have an 1.8 gain layer wasn´t it... then how can the new one which has even less gain still have a narrower viewing cone than the 1.8 gain ultramatte?

I have a Firehawk Luxus model A with the following problem: The edges are sticking to something and beginning to wear through the material. The problem is on the upper 1/3 of the screen, along the outside edges near the tab tensioners. It's almost as though the tension wires are rubbing when rolled up. I'm not sure how to fix this or stop it from getting worse. Anyone?



So I'm the only one with this problem?

So I'm the only one with this problem?

Have you checked with Stewart about this? From what I have heard, they are supposed to be really good about supporting their products in the field.

Question: when did Stewart begin manufacturing the G2 version of the Firehawk?

Gary Dahl

I'm also curious when the G2 firehawk started to roll out. I just received what I assume to be the Firehawk G1 last friday (11-4-05). Have yet to use it. Does anyone know how to tell the difference between the two by model #. My model # is (SNDQ110HFWezX). I would hate to have spent almost 2 grand on the old model. Timing is everything.....................

The G2 was supposed to be a "silent" update from stewart.
The changes seem minor from the G1, and it has been shipping for about 6 months now. There is no G1 still available.
(Got this info from my stewart)

FireHawk G2 (From Stewart Website)

FireHawk G2 is ideal for using with digital projection technologies in today's home theaters. FireHawk G2 produces outstanding black levels and color saturation. Use FireHawk G2 in business and church facilities when ambient light is present.

FireHawk G2 increases black levels, shadow detailing and color saturation. FireHawk G2 maximizes screen brightness at 40 percent peak foot lambert increase over all existing gray screens. Preserves image contrast by dampening room cross light reflection as much as 90 percent. FireHawk G2 also maximizes the screen's passive black level for digital projectors. FireHawk G2 is available in retractable and fixed screen models.

FireHawk G2 Benefits
• Ambient Light Resistance
• Increases Black Level
• Increases Color Saturation
• Bright, Vibrant Image
• Washable
• Flame Retardant

Performance Response
Projection Screen Flexible Front Projection
Perforations Micro Perforation
Framing and Design Available in fixed screens and motorized
retractable screen models
Masking Available
Gain 1.25
Half Gain @ 30º
Seamless Size Restrictions Contact Manufacturer
Seams None
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Couple of questions:-
1) Does it mean that Firehawk would only be available in micro perforation only? If it is, does it mean that G2 version is superior than the previous non-perforated Firehawk?
2) If we would like to upgrade from previous Firehawk to G2 version, could we get special discounted rate?

Have you checked with Stewart about this? From what I have heard, they are supposed to be really good about supporting their products in the field....


yes i have. Weeks later and still no response from them. I have posted photos of the problem:

screen.jpg

Re: Firehawk and ambient light

I attended the Colorado Springs PJ shootout recently and we spent an entire day comparing Stewart Greyhawk, Studiotek 130 and Firehawk. We had two 3 chip DLP Infocus 777 and Sim 3X, 7210, H79, AE900 and Z4 to name a few.

We had room lights from bright, subdued and almost dark. Inputs were content from DVD, and HDTV. Watched the same on all combinations.

I had ordered a Studiotec 130 but after the demo with room lighting I changed my order to a Firehawk. It help to have a bright PJ if you want to watch sports with some room light. The combination of the Infocus 7210 / Firehawk sold me.

Great to hear. I just ordered a Firehawk for my 7205. We've been projecting on a light blue/green wall and the image was surprisingly good. Even chose it over the HP that we had, but that was with a ceiling mount of the projector. I'm hoping the Firehawk is a dramatic improvement over the wall or my wife is going to kill me.
Jason

Re: Firehawk and ambient light

I attended the Colorado Springs PJ shootout recently and we spent an entire day comparing Stewart Greyhawk, Studiotek 130 and Firehawk. We had two 3 chip DLP Infocus 777 and Sim 3X, 7210, H79, AE900 and Z4 to name a few.

We had room lights from bright, subdued and almost dark. Inputs were content from DVD, and HDTV. Watched the same on all combinations.

I had ordered a Studiotec 130 but after the demo with room lighting I changed my order to a Firehawk. It help to have a bright PJ if you want to watch sports with some room light. The combination of the Infocus 7210 / Firehawk sold me.

I have brought a 2nd firehawk screen (luxus model a) and it too has slight wearing at the top left/right. It also makes a noise like light tearing (though nothing is tearing!) on the last part of the drop.

The picture looks lovely though (compared to my older owl screen). :)

CaM

yes i have. Weeks later and still no response from them. I have posted photos of the problem:

screen.jpg

Have you tried contacting your dealer?
When I had the same problem with my 110" Firehawk Electriscreen I contacted my dealer (AVS-Jason) and he was able to get me a "repair kit", basically consisting of a small can of paint and a sponge. (It also took several weeks before I got it, though.)
____
Axel

Hiya, Stewart users, :)
I'm from Japan.

I am hesitating very much.
I know FireHawk will preserves image contrast by dampening room cross light reflection. But Studiotek's bright and clear image is so fantastic too. I love Studiotek's great image quality.

However, my theater is not a special room. It is using with living room combinedly.

The reflected light cannot control though the lighting can be completely turned off.
Yes, FireHawk is good for me. I know it.

But I got a ruby, it has good color by Xenon lamp. I do not throw away Studiotek 130 easily.

The user of FireHawk hardly exists in Japan. Does anyone have advice?

Thanks

...When I had the same problem with my 110" Firehawk Electriscreen I contacted my dealer (AVS-Jason) and he was able to get me a "repair kit", basically consisting of a small can of paint and a sponge. (It also took several weeks before I got it, though.)
____
Axel


Finally heard from Stewart. Their new solution to this problem is some black tape to put over the worn edges. It is really a patch job and is noticible when the lights are on. Seems like a major design flaw to me. Maybe this will be fixed in the new version of the screen.

I just unpacked my Stewart after a move and it looks like the screen material has a few small creases in it along with indentations from the snaps. Has anyone had any experience with this and will these disappear after a few weeks under the tension of the frame. Hopefully you will be able to see what I'm talking about in the attached pictures.

Yes they will go away on their own. Since the screen in a vinyl-base, you can speed that process with a hair-dryer set to medium heat about 6"-8" away from the screen, keep the dryer moving in a relatively random pattern and you should be fine.

I've had several samples sent to me from Stewart, and they always see to end-up either gently folded or draped over something with a firm edge, so they develop "creases", if I let the samples lay on a flat surface for a couple days at room temp- they go away.

So no worries, these things are more resilient than you might think.

Dan

Has anone used the Horizontal ScreenWall ElectriMask from Stewart? I would love to get rid of the grey bars but I don't know what the premium is for this vs. the standard fixed wall 1.3 gain screen.

the more I examine my screen, the more I think my firewak screen is fine :-)

CaM

Anyone have experience using Stewart's microperf screens? In particular, is it true there is no moire affect with that screen? Thanks!

Jim

What would you like to know? I have both a Microperfed Grayhawk RS and StudioTek 130. The two skins are 72" wide 1.78:1 AR, for my Luxus Deluxe frame (this is my reference screen setup, very similar to what Runco uses for their CSMS measurements).

The issue of Microperf and moire isn't cut-and-dry, it depends not only on the projector/technology, but also on the throw distance and screen size. While reviewing the Sony HS-51, I was able to minimize the moire on the screen- but never eliminate it (I had to zoom the image to greater than 100" diag.) Even some DLPs exhibit moire with Microperf, it's not very common for most screen sizes though (92" to 123").

I have yet to see an AT screen that does equally well for both audio and video, the perforated vinyl screens don't do as well with audio, the woven fabric screens have their own video isssues- you really have to pick where you're willing to compromise. Being a Screen Research dealer, I feel that their woven-technology does very well with audio, and I can use their product for very specific applications: when I need an AT screen with an LCD projector without moire. Vutec's soundscreen appears very similar to SR product. I have no experience with Draper's woven product, or with Dalite's perfed product.

The drawback to woven screens is that there IS a visible weave pattern on the screen, it depends on where you're viewing from (distance and angle)- but it is visible. Perfed screens have a similar issue- once you get to within 1X screen width, you begin to notice the holes (depends on screen size, on a tiny screen like mine it could be the reason).

For a long-and-short-of-it answer, I use Stewart- I feel that at this point in time they still make the best screens overall, and offer the most versatility through their product range.
(BTW, I am NOT a Stewart dealer.)

I hope this helps.
Dan

Dan

Thanks much for the response. I'll be using the screen with the Ruby. Looking at 110" diag. to a moderately light controlled (day hours) room, light controlled at night but some light wall issues, which I will likely change if a problem. Room is 28x15, plan to view from 14-16 feet (undecided until I see setup), PJ at minimum throw to screen (I think 10.5 ft, ceiling mount, can adjust). I have samples coming from the major players to compare next week. Wife asked about hiding speakers, that's why I'm asking!
Thanks,
Jim

Your biggest issue with your situation is that Stewart recommends greater than 1.6X for the lens, so at the widest zoom you might have a little hot-spotting. As far as Microperfing and the 1080P resolution, you shouldn't have any moire from that combo with your screen size. for the issue of ambient light: recommendation is Firehawk. I realize that the darker gray color is unnecessary with the ruby, but you'll benefit from the narrower viewing cone.

If you call Stewart directly, I would imagine that they have already had a ruby there, and if not, the Qualia 004 is almost identical when it comes to the characteristecs that count in this situation- so they can also help you out.

Dan

Dan
Thanks for all the info.
Jim

anyone here have used the firehawk with the new Panasonic ae900 ? how is it ?

Hi all!. I'm looking at purchasing a 110" 16:9 firehawk for my infocus X1 projector. Currently I have a 110" Screen Goo that I put up and the picture is pretty good but I'd like to see better detail From everything I've been reading the Firehawk seems to be the way to go for a DLP projector. Any suggestions? My room size is 32' x 16. fully light controlled though the walls are light tan and the ceiling is white 2x2 suspended tiles. Projector is ceiling mounted in a hush box 14'6" from screen. View area seating group 12 feet from the screen. Projector is the X1 with 400hrs, 4800 firmware loaded and calibrated with Avia. Let me know if anyone needs any other details. Looking forward to your input!

I'm not sure what you mean by more detail. Assuming you mean more relative contrast, I think the Firehawk makes sense. The obvious answer is to get some samples and see what you like. I received all the da-lite samples and several from Stewart. The firehawk was my favorite material with my Infocus 7200. However, I'm more interested in performance in ambient light situations. The firehawk looked better (to me) in the complete dark, but really shined when some light was on. Good luck with your search.

MM

How do you guys get samples from Stewart?

I want a sample of their ...130 and searched their site...could not find a place where I can order a free sample.

Do I need to call them...which number?

-Rajiv

How do you guys get samples from Stewart?

I want a sample of their ...130 and searched their site...could not find a place where I can order a free sample.

Do I need to call them...which number?

-Rajiv

I would simply contact our forum hosts.... :)
____
Axel

you actually have to get samples directly from Stewart. Just call them, you will have them 2-3 days. they are very responsive.

I'm not sure what you mean by more detail. Assuming you mean more relative contrast, I think the Firehawk makes sense. The obvious answer is to get some samples and see what you like. I received all the da-lite samples and several from Stewart. The firehawk was my favorite material with my Infocus 7200. However, I'm more interested in performance in ambient light situations. The firehawk looked better (to me) in the complete dark, but really shined when some light was on. Good luck with your search.

MM
Sorry for not being more clear. Yes, I'm trying for more relative contrast, and better perceived black levels. From what I've read the Firehawk it is the way to go with DLP projectors. Just looking for some opinions "not that you'll find many on the forums:) " for someone who has a firehawk preferrably with and X1 and see how they like it compared to anything else they might have tried.

Does anyone have experience with Stewarts' CineCurve product?
1) About how deep would an 8' wide screen be?
2) Its in a corner section (dedicated seating 200SQFT) of a bigger Rec Room(1200SQFT), what is the impact on off angle viewing?
3) If available with the different Stewart screen materials any recommendations (looking at either a Ruby or 1,3 chip 1080p DLP's)

I am trying to get a "head start" for when my Stewart 100" permanently tensioned screen comes in and would like to put up appropriate framing before the drywall goes up in my HT -- I cannot find anywhere how far in the mounting brackets are from the edges of the screen on a Stewart Luxus Deluxe Firehawk screen. Any suggestions or experience?

Read the manuals (from Stewart's website) and although it shows a drawing, there aren't any specific measurements. TIA.

The mounting points can slide in the frame to meet the stud locations. I would think you would be ok if you start with a stud in the middle of your front wall then go with typical stud spacing.

Hi Guys,

Just a quick question, can anyone tell me if the Stewart Firehawk screen material is a good match for the Sony HS60 projector (or I think the US equivalent is HS51)? I was looking at getting the Studiotek130 material, but have seen the Firehawk secondhand in the correct size (7ft widescreen format fixed screen). It will be in a studio/loft apartment so not completely light controlled.

Any help making a decision would be appreciated :)

Cheers,
Steve

Need advise on which Stewart Screen for Ruby. I currently own a Stewart Greyhawk with a Sony 10HT projector. Looking to move to Ruby, will my Greyhawk 110" 16x9 still be ok?

I currently am the owner of Sony 10th projector with a Stewart greyhawk 110" 16x9 screen. I am contemplating moving up to a Ruby projector will my greyhawk be adequate or do I need to change the screen?

If you're talking about the original GrayHawk, then I would say change the skin. If you're talking about the newer Grayhawk RS, then it's a neutral enough screen that you can get away with it- but there's one caveat: Ruby is a relatively dim projector, that size screen is really pushing it as far as brightness is concerned.

If it were me purchasing a Ruby, and using a 110" screen- I'd go with a higher gain than .92 of Grayhawk RS. At that screen size, Studiotek is probably a better choice.

Many with Rubies have moved to the Dalite High-Power. Check the LCOS forum for info.

Steve, here's the link to my review of the HS-51 (includes comments about Studiotek, Grayhawk RS, and Firehawk)

http://www.digitalaudiovideo.com/hardware_reviews_13342.htm

Dan

Thanks for the reply Dan. Nice site by the way!

I have actually just bought a Firehawk as there would be some ambient light around so was advised that this may be the best screen to go for. I guess I can always swop out the material at a later date if necessary.

Has anyone seen the 'Stwart Media' screen, the one advertised as being equivalent to a large flat panel tv? (It comes with side speakers in the frame, but hopefully they could make one without them.) It sounds like this screen is similar to the dnp 'supernova'/mirage. Does anyone know anything about it?

Currently, the Media Screen uses FireHawk material- Stewart has yet to release their version of a "black" screen. Look for that at the upcoming CEDIA most likely.

They also make the media screen in a rear-projection setup.

Dan

Currently, the Media Screen uses FireHawk material- Stewart has yet to release their version of a "black" screen. Look for that at the upcoming CEDIA most likely.

They also make the media screen in a rear-projection setup.

Dan

The info I've seen said the the Media screen was Firehawk MATERIAL with a special 'optical coating', that seems to imply that it is not just a std Firehawk screen. I could, of course, be totally wrong!

My point being that Stewart has been in development of a screen like the Supernova from DNP for several years, but it has yet to be released- the soonest I would expect to see it in a "real" setting would be CEDIA 06.

As far as the "special 'optical coating' " on the Firehawk, I could only guess at this point- I haven't spoken with anyone from Stewart since CES.

Dan

My point being that Stewart has been in development of a screen like the Supernova from DNP for several years, but it has yet to be released- the soonest I would expect to see it in a "real" setting would be CEDIA 06.

As far as the "special 'optical coating' " on the Firehawk, I could only guess at this point- I haven't spoken with anyone from Stewart since CES.

Dan

OK, thanks for the comments and info. I guess we will just have to wait and see what Stewart comes up with.

What's the word on the second hand market/re-sale market for Stewart screens? Being that they are arguably the best line of screens available, I'd think their value would hold up pretty well and there would be a brisk market.

Maybe I'm frequenting the wrong places, but my experience with trying to sell my current fixed Firehawk screen, to raise cash to get closer to buying a motorized Stewart screen, has not worked so well.

As it is, I'm going to use a da-lite pulldown for a while (cannot use a fixed wall screen in my new home) but if I can figure out where buyers and sellers of used Stewart screens connect, I'll be a step closer to selling what I have, and buying what I need. There doesn't seem to be a lot of activity in the for sale area of AVS, nor the usual auction sites.

Hi

I have a 92" Studiotek 130. Kind of looking dirty recently with some yellowish marks. On the Stewart website, it says it is washable. How does one go about cleaning it? thanks.

Hi

I have a 92" Studiotek 130. Kind of looking dirty recently with some yellowish marks. On the Stewart website, it says it is washable. How does one go about cleaning it? thanks.

Here's what the Stewart site says, but I've never tried more than a damp wash cloth: The screen surface on your Stewart screen is extremely delicate. Special attention to these instructions should be followed when cleaning. A draftsman-style
brush may be used to lightly whisk away any loose dirt or dust particles. (This type of brush is usually available at office supply stores.) For tougher spots, use a mild
solution detergent, water, and a sponge. Rub lightly. Blot with a damp sponge to absorb excess water. Do not use any other cleaning materials on the screen. Cleaning instruction are also available in your owners manual.
http://www.stewartfilmscreen.com/faq/#How_do_I_clean_my_Stewart_video_screen

In Stewart's description of the Firehawk, it suggests that it is very good in eliminating ambient light from directions horizontal to the screen ("preserves image contrast by dampening room cross light reflection as much as 90%"), and presumably less well on light from above or below the screen. Similarly, I think I have read in other places that the Firehawk is essentially as good as the Supernova with regard to horizontal light, just not as good as vertical light from above or below.

If this is all true, then I find this to be very good, for certainly in my situation (and probably in most people's), ambient light mostly comes from horizontal directions. Am I interpreting all of this correctly? And it this lack of descriminating against vertical light related to the fact that the Firehawk is an 'angular reflective' screen, best mounted on the ceiling at a point higher than the top of the screen?

Is this cloth available to use on a DIY frame?

I am planning a CH setup of 54" ht. with a 127" width. This yields a 138"D for scope movies and a 110"D for 1.78 format. I am trying to decide btwn the Studiotek 130 and the Ultramatte 150. The Ultra is called a Studiotek with more gain (a good thing), but there must be some differences or they wouldn't make both models under diff. names. I'll be using a 3 chip Sim2 C3X Lite, so the extra gain may prove useful. The primary use is for reasonably dark theater with scope movies. Execpt during NFL football season.

Questions: Other than slight gain advantage, is there a reason for one over the other. The modest diff. in half-gain angle is of little concern to me. I'm more wondering about surface material diffs. Also, when Stewart says they make custom sizes at no extra charge, what is that based on? Do I price the screen at the 1.78 dimension of 96" X 54" (for 54" CH) and they just give me the wider screen (127") free? They don't list any CH sizes, so I don't know how this "custom size free" works.

Lastly, I am assuming their measurements for seam vs. non-seam are H X W (in that order). Otherwise, that plays into the Studiotek decision. They state "no seams" up to 8'6" X 50'. It seems reasonable to me that they are saying H X W, but I have reasoned incorrectly before. Appreciate help with any/all of my questions. Thanks in advance.

Flint 350,,, First off, no seam is necessary. Neither fabric is axially directional, so they can be run either way. Published sizes and prices reflect sizes which are common, and in no way constrain what is available from Stewart. We build exactly what is requested.

Studiotek has a bit better off axis viewing cone. Ultramatte 150 has as good of a viewing cone as any fabric available at that gain. Since the Studiotek is a little lower in on-axis gain, the cone is wider, which also translates to slight improvement in white field uniformity. The Ultramatte 150 has a slightly smoother surface texture which some viewers prefer.

So if your calculations indicate that foot lamberts are in short supply, the Ultramatte 150 is a good solution. In order to preserve maximum white field uniformity and center to edge brightness uniformity, we encourage use of longer focal lengths, so that the angles of incidence are in a tighter distribution.

Millerwill, Firehawk fabric is not axially directional and will accept or reject light uniformly side to side, or top to bottom.

Flint 350,,, First off, no seam is necessary. Neither fabric is axially directional, so they can be run either way. Published sizes and prices reflect sizes which are common, and in no way constrain what is available from Stewart. We build exactly what is requested.

Studiotek has a bit better off axis viewing cone. Ultramatte 150 has as good of a viewing cone as any fabric available at that gain. Since the Studiotek is a little lower in on-axis gain, the cone is wider, which also translates to slight improvement in white field uniformity. The Ultramatte 150 has a slightly smoother surface texture which some viewers prefer.

So if your calculations indicate that foot lamberts are in short supply, the Ultramatte 150 is a good solution. In order to preserve maximum white field uniformity and center to edge brightness uniformity, we encourage use of longer focal lengths, so that the angles of incidence are in a tighter distribution.

Millerwill, Firehawk fabric is not axially directional and will accept or reject light uniformly side to side, or top to bottom.

Interesting... It just so happens, I'm currently evaluating both the ST130 and
Ultramatte150 and noticed an ever so slight sheen on the Ultramatte150. Just
curious if the sheen would be contributed to the surface texture or the
optical coating?

The texture you see on the surface IS the optical coating, if you flip the material over what you see is the substrate for the screen.

Dan

Flint 350,,, First off, no seam is necessary. Neither fabric is axially directional, so they can be run either way. Published sizes and prices reflect sizes which are common, and in no way constrain what is available from Stewart. We build exactly what is requested.

Studiotek has a bit better off axis viewing cone. Ultramatte 150 has as good of a viewing cone as any fabric available at that gain. Since the Studiotek is a little lower in on-axis gain, the cone is wider, which also translates to slight improvement in white field uniformity. The Ultramatte 150 has a slightly smoother surface texture which some viewers prefer.

So if your calculations indicate that foot lamberts are in short supply, the Ultramatte 150 is a good solution. In order to preserve maximum white field uniformity and center to edge brightness uniformity, we encourage use of longer focal lengths, so that the angles of incidence are in a tighter distribution.

Millerwill, Firehawk fabric is not axially directional and will accept or reject light uniformly side to side, or top to bottom.


m Robinson, thanks for the info. That helps a lot. I have decided on the Ultramatte 150 (with the help of my AVS salesman) in a 127" wide CH setup. I'm sure it will look great. Thanks again.

I am trying to decide on a projector screen for my dedicated theater room. I have light controlled room with walls that of a medium color. The room will be used to watch the occasional football game but mostly for movies. When watching football games there will be some room lights on. I am trying to decide on which Stewart Screen to purchase.

I have a Panasonic AE-900 projector that I will be using and projecting a 123” diagonal image. I am trying to decide on Stewart StudioTek 130 Screen or Stewart Firehawk Screen. I decided on the Stewart Screen because it is the best and I expect the screen to be in my theater for a long time – but with the projector I do expect to replace it in the next 2-3 years with decent DLP projector. Because of the enormous expense of building and equipping the theater room, I have to cut expenses somewhere. For the price, I just could not pass up getting the Panasonic AE-900. I expect the sell the Panasonic in 2-3 years and be able to buy a $4-$5,000 DLP projector. I anticipate that screen technology to pretty much stay the same and want a screen that can I can grow with. My local dealer recommends buying the Firehawk screen and later I can buy the StudioTek 130 material when I buy another projector. I do not have any idea of what the replacement screen material would cost.

Does this make sense? What do you think will be the best choice in screen material for the long term? Which screen is best with the Panasonic AE-900U projecting a 123” image, Stewart StudioTek 130 or Stewart Firehawk?

Studiotek would excel if you really control the light, and also helps you a lot if you need to use a short throw. Firehawk would be very pleasing as well, and particularly so when ambient light is harder to control. Either one will be plenty bright. The AE900 has a very flexible lens. I have this projector in my family room right now. The screen is 106" diagonal, with a 21.5 foot throw, from the opposite wall, and it looks fantastic. It was utterly scalding bright watching the Olympics in HD, with lighting on, in a convivial party atmosphere.

The long throw helps with Firehawk's slight tendency to hot-spot as compared to Studiotek. The AE900 definitely can use help with room contrast, and the Firehawk really works in this regard. I went with Firehawk, albiet smaller image, and I have lousy light control, an architectural choice in that room.

Mark Robinson
Director of Manufacturing
Stewart Filmscreen Corp

Mark Robinson or anyone.

Has anybody successfully used the Panasonic AE-900 with a Stewart Studiotek 130 Microperf screen? I have a Studiotek 130 in a 49" X 87" (100" diagonal) size.

Will I experience moire with this particular setup? :confused:

Thanks!


...Glenn

Short answer, no moire.

Mark Robinson
Director of Manufacturing
Stewart Filmscreen Corp

Mark, another question if you will.

First off my room is totally light controlled. I was going to use my 49" X 87" Studiotek 130 Microperf screen with an 8" CRT projector I have but my particular ceiling will not accomodate the large beast at this time.

Besides your comment that I should not experience moire from pairing of the Microperf and the AE900, do you think that the AE900 will perform well even with the light loss due to the Microperfs... will the lumen output be sufficient with the 130?


...Glenn

Mark, another question if you will.

First off my room is totally light controlled. I was going to use my 49" X 87" Studiotek 130 Microperf screen with an 8" CRT projector I have but my particular ceiling will not accomodate the large beast at this time.

Besides your comment that I should not experience moire from pairing of the Microperf and the AE900, do you think that the AE900 will perform well even with the light loss due to the Microperfs... will the lumen output be sufficient with the 130?


...Glenn


The loss of light through the perfs is 10%. You'll still have more than enough.

Mark

Iam replacing my CRT with a Samsung sph710ae. Iam in a light contolled room dark walls and floor. I have a Studiotek 130 92" diagonal now. I would like to go bigger 100" diagonal. I dont know if I should go with Studiotek or greyhawk RS or firehawk. I have no way of comparing the different screen.

Thanks
Brad

Studiotek at that size, too much area to illuminate with the lower gain of the Grayhawk RS.

Mark

Thanks for the help.

Brad

Studiotek would excel if you really control the light, and also helps you a lot if you need to use a short throw. Firehawk would be very pleasing as well, and particularly so when ambient light is harder to control. Either one will be plenty bright. The AE900 has a very flexible lens. I have this projector in my family room right now. The screen is 106" diagonal, with a 21.5 foot throw, from the opposite wall, and it looks fantastic. It was utterly scalding bright watching the Olympics in HD, with lighting on, in a convivial party atmosphere.

The long throw helps with Firehawk's slight tendency to hot-spot as compared to Studiotek. The AE900 definitely can use help with room contrast, and the Firehawk really works in this regard. I went with Firehawk, albiet smaller image, and I have lousy light control, an architectural choice in that room.

Mark Robinson
Director of Manufacturing
Stewart Filmscreen Corp

Mark - Thanks for the help. I think that I will start the Firehawk and see how that looks.

Mark Robinson,

I think I speak for all as I say THANK YOU for your presence here on the Stewart screen thread answering all our questions... it is most refreshing for a manufacturer to do this! :D


...Glenn

I definately second that, THANK YOU Mark

Mark (or others),

I have a question regarding the FireHawk vs the GrayHawk screens. I am thinking of putting a projector into a family room, so a screen that handles ambient light well is a high priority. The area for the projector and screen is fairly small, so I'm looking at a small screen, say 72" or 82" in diagonal. It will have to be a pull down screen of some type because of no available wall space. The projector will need to be ceiling mounted and will have a maximum throw distance of 13' and probably more on the order of 10' or 11'. Seating will also be on the order of 10' or 11' from the screen. I haven't decided on a projector but am considering the Sony Ruby or a similar quality 1080P DLP when they are available.

I'm wondering if I'm likely to have issues regarding hotspotting with the FireHawk? Given that seating will be fairly close to the screen am I also likely to have problems with brightness dropping off for those sitting to the side of the centre of the screen? Any other comments or suggestions regardng screens?

Thanks.

Richard Thomas

I had a Firehawk in almost the exact same setup (82 inch diag, seating about 11 ft from the screen, projector about 12 feet from the screen, mounted high on the rear wall (similar to ceiling mount)). No hot spotting, better ambient light rejection that the simply Draper gray screen I had before, and brighter.

The only issue is that the ideal distance for the projector is FURTHER BACK than what my setup would allow, to get the optimum brightness/punch from the Firehawk. This didn't mean it looked bad (far from it) but that it could have looked better if I could have mounted the projector further back.

I have been trying to find the specifications for a 100" Luxus Deluxe ScreenWall (Firehawk). I'm specifically looking to find the weight of the frame & screen material for hanging purposes.

Thanks....
-Dave

I have been trying to find the specifications for a 100" Luxus Deluxe ScreenWall (Firehawk). I'm specifically looking to find the weight of the frame & screen material for hanging purposes.

Thanks....
-Dave

I found the following while crusing the Stewart website a while back.

ahh..perfect! Thanks! IMHO, their website is a little hard to navigate for hard numbers & specifications....

-Dave

ahh..perfect! Thanks! IMHO, their website is a little hard to navigate for hard numbers & specifications....

-Dave


Net weight, approx 33 lbs. I agree about the website. We will be constructing a new one that will be easier to navigate.

Regards,

Hi,

I am trying to design into our new dedicated home theater, a set of motorized drapes that will retract in front of a Stewart Lucas Deluxe 16x9 studiotek 130 screen which we have purchased but do not yet have. One dimension that I did not note in the web brochure was the mounting depth necessary for a curtain to clear not just the screen but the border as well. I guess I am assuming that the curtain should not brush back and forth across the screen or border. I somehow manage to measure everything but this dimension when I visit a friends home or see it in a showroom. Please let me know the mounted depth of the screen and border.

Thank You.

I'll share my experience comparing firehawk to high power. I have a similar setup for projector mounting location, screen size, and viewing distance. Currently I'm just using blackout cloth, and am hard pressed to justify the marginal improvement I'll see in dark viewing for the expense. However, I find I'm doing more and more viewing with ambient light. So I ordered samples from Da-Lite and Stewart to check them out. I suggest you do the same (they were free).

In my evaluation I decided on the Firehawk. Although the high power does provide a higher gain image than other screens with a ceiling mount, it's depressing to stand up and see the image get much brighter and seemingly more vibrant. I think I would end up wanting to stand during movies! The firehawk provided the best picture in my actual viewing area. I also found it shed light better in ambient situations. The relative contrast between black and white were more profound to me, especially compared to the high power OUTSIDE of it's sweet spot.

Of all the materials I tested from Stewart and Da-lite only the high power and the firehawk were compelling enough of a difference from black out cloth for me to consider. FWIW the black out cloth was indistinguishable from matt white screen material. I hung both samples on my screen for a while just to see different situations. With lights on, I was always impressed with the firewhawk.

When it comes down to it though, you'll get used to what you have and until you see something better you won't really know what you're missing. With the high-power you'll always see what you're missing every time you stand up. That would drive me crazy! You may be different. Good Luck.

MM

mtmason: This post of yours is from quite a while ago, but I'm just working my way through all these screen posts and had a question (if you are still reading these threads!). Since I can mount my pj either 'high' (i.e., on the ceiling) or 'low' (on a stand just behind the sitting area and less than a foot above our heads), I can avoid some of the bad features you noted about the HP (because it is retro-reflective, while the FH is angular-reflective). Thus with the ph mounted optimally for both screens--high for the FH and low for the HP--how do you think your comparison would come out? Tx, Bill

Hello JKMW,

Thank you very much for the order. The Luxus Deluxe, Snap screen with e-z mount brackets, will stand 1 7/8" off the wall. Is that what you have ordered?

This isn't relevant in anyway to the current discussion, but since it is the official stewart discussion thread.

I owned a 2.05:1 Stewart Firehawk that I used with a Sanyo Z2. It was 103" wide.

Amazing screen. Beautiful picture.
Not as *BAM* in your face bright as the Dalite Hipower was, but the image was so much better/satisfying.

ONLY gripe is that very infrequently, if your head was JUST right, you'd get one tiny, tiny 'bright spot' sparkle on the screen. Move your head slightly and it was gone.

I guess the second minor gripe is these things are EXPENSIVE!

Fit, finish, construction, packaging, professionalism, support, looks, pride of ownership, A+.

I sold that screen with the house when I sold my house, but my new house will very likely have another Stewart screen in it.

This random review provided by -Allen

Hello JKMW,

Thank you very much for the order. The Luxus Deluxe, Snap screen with e-z mount brackets, will stand 1 7/8" off the wall. Is that what you have ordered?

Like many others here, I'm leaning strongly toward the Firehawk for the screen in the FP set-up I'm planning. I.e., like you, my room is not a dedicated, light-controlled one, though it is usually relatively dark: no direct sunlight even in daytime, just some filtered light through two shuttered windows. The FH sounds ideal.

Just a question: you mentioned that it's best to have as long a throw for the pj as possible. I'm looking at the new Optoma HD81 that will come out later this year, and its throw is limited to 2.2 (screen width), and also my room limits the throw to 16 ft (am looking at a 110" diag screen, so throw would be ~ 2.0, almost as long as the pj allows). The question is, will this throw be long enough to avoid the hotspotting tendency of the FH? This seems to be the only problem of concern, everything else seems to be outstanding. (It will be ceiling mounted, actually on a shelf high on the back wall, very close to the 8.3 ft ceiling.)

If you have 2:1 that's great, we like to see 1.5:1 or longer, and have bunches of very happy customers at 1.5:1. As far as the mounting goes, help yourself a bit by using a ladder to support your projector temporarily, at the planned height of the shelf. You want the projector to be able to fill the screen without using any anti-keystoning correction.

Thank you for considering Stewart Filmscreen!

If you have 2:1 that's great, we like to see 1.5:1 or longer, and have bunches of very happy customers at 1.5:1. As far as the mounting goes, help yourself a bit by using a ladder to support your projector temporarily, at the planned height of the shelf. You want the projector to be able to fill the screen without using any anti-keystoning correction.

Thank you for considering Stewart Filmscreen!

Thanks for the quick reply! Glad to hear that a 2.0 throw works well. The HD81 has a fixed 27% (of height) offset; i.e., for a 110" diag screen, this means the lens of the pj needs to be ~ 15" above the top of the screen. So with the screen mounted so that eye level (38") is ~ 1/3 of the screen, the pj would be ~ 7.5 ft above the floor.

Is there an optimum height for the pj to be mounted with the FH? E.g., what would this be with my eyes at 38" above the floor, sitting ~12 ftt from the screen, with the center of the screen ~ 47" above the floor, and the pj ~ 16 feet from the screen?

Hi Mark,

I asked this question earlier, but you may have missed it. I did get a useful reply from Nathan.

I'm trying to decide between a Firehawk and Grayhawk screen. It will be going into a family room with some ambient light issues. It will need to be a pull-down/motorised screen because of no wall space. I'm looking at either a 63" or 71" wide screen (16:9 format). Seating will be about 10.5' to 11' from the screen. The projector will be at most 11' to 12' from the screen. (From the room's arrangement it would be better to have the projector closer, at say 7' to 8' from the screen but I think that will introduce too many technical problems.)

I'm wondering what would be your recommendation between the two screens in this situation? As the seating is fairly close to the screen I'm concerned about both hotspotting problems and brightness falling off for those sitting to the side of the screen. I also wonder about the "sparklies" some mention in regards to the Firehawk.

Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Richard


PS I'm in Brisbane Australia and all though most dealers will happily supply me with a Stewart screen, only one has ever had one on display and it was the StudioTek 130. None of the dealers here seem to be able to provide concrete advice.

Hello JKMW,

Thank you very much for the order. The Luxus Deluxe, Snap screen with e-z mount brackets, will stand 1 7/8" off the wall. Is that what you have ordered?

Thanks Mark for the information. Wow, that's shallower than I imagined. I purchased the Luxus Deluxe, Snap screen along with a Sony VPL-VW100 from Dave at Gramophone in Columbia, MD.

The 15 x 18 room will be completely light controlled down to pitch black at high noon if so desired but this raises another question that keeps coming to mind. I know we need to have total control over the ambient light in the room with the Studiotek 130 surface, but how much ambient light can I use for things like foot lighting, sconces, lighted poster frames, fiber optic stars, etc. before the picture starts to wash out?

I know trial and error could ultimately answer this question, but I do not want to order the kinds of things that add to the overall light level only to find out that they do more harm to the picture quality than good to the aesthetics. Is there a rule of thumb I can use when adding ambient light to the room?

Thank you again for your help :) !

mark w.

"Is there an optimum height for the pj to be mounted with the FH? E.g., what would this be with my eyes at 38" above the floor, sitting ~12 ftt from the screen, with the center of the screen ~ 47" above the floor, and the pj ~ 16 feet from the screen? "
The Firehawk is an angular reflective surface, somewhat analogous to a billiard table bumper, but picture the bouncing ball being divided into a bunch of smaller balls, but bouncing in a defined distribution, centered on the probable bounce path of the originating impact. This behaviour is uniform in vertical or horizontal performance. So light hitting the surface, exits at a complementary symetrical angle, but diffused and distributed. So an extreme example: Projector on the floor, a large amount of light would be directed upward in a complementary angle, toward the ceiling. A high ceiling mount would direct light down below toward the floor. We always have to look at the recommended lens geometry of a particular projector, as clearly illustrated by the previous data on the upcoming Optoma projector. When you have a flexible lens with vertical offset capablilty, a good way to go is to align the lens with a perpendicular horizontal line, originating at the upper edge of the screen. Many projectors are designed to do exactly that. So optimum for Firehawk is always above the screen surface. The further away you can place the projector, then the distribution of incident angles is tightned. This results in better center-to-edge uniformity, and a wider acceptable viewing angle.

Richard,
In Australia, Mr. Paul Kutcher very ably represents us, and can help you view products in use.

Visual Fidelity Pty Ltd
(Authorized Distributor for
Commercial & Consumer Products)
Paul Kutcher
11A Flight Drive
Tullamarine VIC 3043
Australia

Tel: +61 (0)3 9338 8995
Fax: +61 (0)3 9338 8996

On the fabric selection, the presence of ambient light, other than just re-reflected light would lead me more toward Firehawk, however, you should really use the longer throw option. The Grayhawk would be plenty bright, and would have wider viewing cone, better white field uniformity, but you must be more dedicated to the control of ambient light.

The threat of 'sparklies' is a non issue. We re-formulated Firehawk a little over a year ago, specifically to eliminate sparklies, and to slightly reduce gain, and widen the viewing cone.


JKMW,
The light-producing aesthetic elements you describe, if poorly placed, would harm contrast for any screen. What I have seen in the field, is people using lighting control systems, automated dimmers, which bring the elements down when the projection begins. If you don't want that sort of complexity, use creative placement and manual dimmers instead. Provided you use a surface with the ability to work around some lighting, if you avoid the rear wall, keep that pretty dark, and avoid adjacent areas of the perpendicular walls, you can use the elements. The adjacent perpendicular walls are a great place for deep colored, acoustical treatments. That will help your video and audio. The Studiotek surface will really look much better if you eliminate all of the decorative element lighting while viewing is underway. There will be enough room illumination from the screen alone, to allow people to appreciate where they are, and usually to allow safe ingress and egress, unless it is a really dark scene.

When you have a flexible lens with vertical offset capablilty, a good way to go is to align the lens with a perpendicular horizontal line, originating at the upper edge of the screen. Many projectors are designed to do exactly that. So optimum for Firehawk is always above the screen surface. The further away you can place the projector, then the distribution of incident angles is tightned. This results in better center-to-edge uniformity, and a wider acceptable viewing angle.

Mark, you are doing a heroic job in dealing with all these queries; I certainly appreciate it, as I'm sure the others do. (And I think you are also doing well for your company--the old adage of "doing well while also doing good"!)

I do understand the angular-reflective idea well. For example, if I do the calculation for the following scenario: eye level = 38", center of screen = 47", eye to screen = 12 ft, pj lens to screen = 16 ft, then for the light from the pj to hit the screen center and bounch straight to my eye leads to the pj ideally being at ~5 ft above the floor (9" x (16/12) = 12" above the screen center). But this is rather low; e.g., the top of the screen will be at ~78" = 6.5 ft. But I gather from your comments that there is considerable diffussion of the light from my simple 'ray analysis', so that having the pj a foot or so above this 'ideal' position is fine; e.g., so that locating the pj at ~ the height of the top of the screen is a good rule of thumb.

But I do understand that mounting the pj too close to eye level is NOT a good idea for the FH (as it is for retro-reflective screens, such as the Dalite HP or Optoma Graywolf). Is that still the recommendation?

Mounting at eye level is problematic geometrically for Front Projection, but happens in R.P. apps. where the optics are frequently centered on the screen. I suppose you could put the projector in front of you, it's done with CRT etc. But if you can find a sweet and accessible higher angle, the angular reflective surface can deliver the light right to you optimally..Lengthening the throw, makes this easier, creating a wider, (taller), sweet spot.

is 123" diagonal and firehawk too big at 13.5' away when viewing 720p or DVD based material? I hope not, because I just ordered the screen.

is 123" diagonal and firehawk too big at 13.5' away when viewing 720p or DVD based material? I hope not, because I just ordered the screen.

Sounds great to me: you are right at the THX recommended ratio of viewing distance to screen diagonal (1.3). Just hope your pj is bright enough; you'll need 540 Lumens (when calibrated for video) to achieve 15 ftL.

Sounds great to me: you are right at the THX recommended ratio of viewing distance to screen diagonal (1.3). Just hope your pj is bright enough; you'll need 540 Lumens (when calibrated for video) to achieve 15 ftL.


that's what I thought. Some people keep making me re-calculate and second guess myself. I was going to go with the Optoma HD72 and pair it with my 123" firehawk, but I found that the offset won't work. Next choice was the Optoma H78 but it was too dim. Thus, I'm now at the Samsung HP-H710AE and from what I've been reading, after cal it is putting out enough lumens so I'm 90% sure this is the projector for me. If anyone feels otherwise, please speak up and provide some data to back it up (not just "I think..." as it drives me insane with second guessing hahaa).

Thanks millerwill for the confirmation on the THX viewing as that was what I was going by. My thinking was that I should be planning ahead for when 1080p becomes affordable too. Nothing worse than having to go back and re-buy another screen. I'm in the camp of do it right the first time.

that's what I thought. Some people keep making me re-calculate and second guess myself. I was going to go with the Optoma HD72 and pair it with my 123" firehawk, but I found that the offset won't work. Next choice was the Optoma H78 but it was too dim. Thus, I'm now at the Samsung HP-H710AE and from what I've been reading, after cal it is putting out enough lumens so I'm 90% sure this is the projector for me. If anyone feels otherwise, please speak up and provide some data to back it up (not just "I think..." as it drives me insane with second guessing hahaa).

Thanks millerwill for the confirmation on the THX viewing as that was what I was going by. My thinking was that I should be planning ahead for when 1080p becomes affordable too. Nothing worse than having to go back and re-buy another screen. I'm in the camp of do it right the first time.

The Sam 170 pj has been getting great reviews. Be sure to read its review in projectorcentral.com, where they say that when properly calibrated for video it produces 465 Lumens; this should be sufficient for your size screen, but just barely.

When you have a flexible lens with vertical offset capablilty, a good way to go is to align the lens with a perpendicular horizontal line, originating at the upper edge of the screen. Many projectors are designed to do exactly that. So optimum for Firehawk is always above the screen surface. The further away you can place the projector, then the distribution of incident angles is tightned. This results in better center-to-edge uniformity, and a wider acceptable viewing angle.

Mark,

I hope my personal note of thanks for your considered responses to my questions doesn't seem redundant especially as it is from me and not someone else speaking for me :p . This entire Home Theater design and implementation thing is Truly a labor of love and I really appreciate all the help I have received and can get especially from people like you, the Experts.

I wanted to keep this brief but having read your comments about the angular reflectivity of the FH in recent posts, I began wondering whether this was an issue with the ST in a dark room. I began my projector installation analysis by trying to achieve a recommended vertical viewing angle of 15 degrees for the front row, (measured as the angle of the perpendicular horizontal viewing height, (I used 39") to the top of the screen). I wound up with a 17.18 degree vertical viewing angle at 11' 3" back from the screen. The Sony VPL-VW100 has plenty of vertical offset capability. Using the Sony recommended ceiling mount, I find I am well within the maximum offset when attached to a 1" thick mounting board on my 8' ceiling. This puts the center of the lens 11 7/16" down from the ceiling and roughly 3.75" above the top edge of the screen. This distance above the screen can of course be decreased by raising the screen, (and increasing the viewing angle), or lowering the projector, (raising headroom concerns for the second row viewers). Is the angular reflection of light from the projector a factor I should take into account with the Studiotek 130?

Thank you again for all your help. You have already saved us $hundreds :) in lighting effects we never really needed!

mark

ps - ambient light problems, you think? (parts of screen in direct sunlight mounted in outdoor gazebo), cgim.audiogon.com/i/vs/s/f/1069629658.jpg (http://cgim.audiogon.com/i/vs/s/f/1069629658.jpg) Hope they aren't using a StudioTek 130.

I currently have a Stewart Grayhawk Luxus Screenwall fixed screen SN092H, 80W x 45H. (3 years old). My projector is a Sanyo PLV60HT LCD with a 1200 ANSI Lumen output and a 700:1 contrast ratio. The projector is ceiling mounted with the lens approximately 14 feet from the screen.

The installation is in a basement HT/family room with 2 small windows and the lighting in the room can be easily controlled for viewing. Overhead lights are usually off when viewing DVD and lights behind the seating position are often on during TV viewing. The room has an acoustic ceiling (white) and the walls are a beige color. (Sherwin Williams Dhurrie Beige to be exact). Color scheme will not be changed.

I have been very happy with the results, but am considering some acoustical changes to the room by going with in-wall front 3 speakers versus floor standing and will thus need a microperf style screen.

First, can replacement screen material, without the frame be ordered? Is there any “trade-in” allowance for previous customers? What would be recommended? Another Grayhawk (or Grayhawk RS) or would a Firehawk G2 be more appropriate?

Thanks,
Mike

What are the differences between the new G2 and the "old" Firehawk material regarding hotspot and uniformity?? The "old" did hotspot quite a bit... How much better is it now??

Shovven

Mounting at eye level is problematic geometrically for Front Projection, but happens in R.P. apps. where the optics are frequently centered on the screen. I suppose you could put the projector in front of you, it's done with CRT etc. But if you can find a sweet and accessible higher angle, the angular reflective surface can deliver the light right to you optimally..Lengthening the throw, makes this easier, creating a wider, (taller), sweet spot.


Mark,

Quick question. I own a Firehawk 16:9, 100" dia. The top of the screen is 7' high and our projector lens is 15' from screen and 6' high. Our seating is 13' from screen and the room is only 13' wide so horizontal is a non issue. From reading your above post would there be any advantage to me moving the projector higher on the back wall? It's on an adjustable shelf so it wouldn't be too much work if there is some benefit, but I don't want to spend the time if it's negligible.

Thanks in advance for your help and, not brown-nosing, but I think the Firehawk is a GREAT screen. This is my third Stewart screen and I'd purchase again in a heartbeat.

Scott

I took some time off last week and am responding a bit late, sorry, but here goes...

Mark,
Thanks for the nice comments. The Studiotek should easily accomodate the small amount of deviation from perfect vertical angle. It is pretty forgiving, has a wide viewing cone, and exemplary resistance to color shift. How high above finished floor is bottom of the image area?

Mike,
The PLV-60 has served you well I'll wager. We've had one here for years. We will tilt the perf pattern at about 24 degrees at that size to minimize moire artifact. Yes we do make "Screen Only" sales, we have the data from your original purchase. We do not take trade in screens, but folks do often appreciate an opportunity to purchase a well cared for, used screen, even without a frame. You could put up an ad here on AVS or at Videogon, and test the waters. Firehawk is appreciated by many folks who own the PLV series projectors. They throw a lot of light, but the contrast ratio is not the major selling point for that platform.

Shovven,
Firehawk G-2 is an internal upgrade which we did not feel was "monumental" enough to promote. The information has gotten around and the substance of the change is a difference in the partical size distribution in one of the pigments. This change was done to eliminate "star" artifacts, when folks would see a brilliant tiny mirror within the image, and to widen the veiwing cone a little bit, by reducing the gain. This also reduces hot-spot. Hot-spot with Firehawk is very much tied to applied throw distance, and with both versions of the fabric, we recommend 1.5 :1 or longer throw distances. So yes, G2 is "better" in terms of hot-spot, but still less appropriate for short-throw installations, than Studiotek, Snomatte, or Grayhawk or Graymatte.

ScottyB,
It would be interesting to do, but probably close to negligible. If I understand you correctly, the raised position would create symmetry in the angle of incidence, versus the vertical viewing angle? I like the sound of what you have right now, and if the elevation of the projector, forces you to use anti-keystoning correction, stay away from that. Thank you for the kind words, and we are honored to be of service!

Mark,
Thanks for the nice comments. The Studiotek should easily accomodate the small amount of deviation from perfect vertical angle. It is pretty forgiving, has a wide viewing cone, and exemplary resistance to color shift. How high above finished floor is bottom of the image area?


Mark,

Hope your vacation was energizing!

In direct answer to your question, the image area is 31 3/4" off the floor. But if I may back up to something you wrote referring to a perfect viewing angle. Is this in reference to what the Studiotek 'likes' as in the correct angle of reflectivity for the Studioteks specific screen surface? Please forgive me if it sounds like I'm beating a dead horse, (what's the origin of that expression? Must endeavor to be more politically correct), but if necessary, I can move the center of the pj lens down, closer to the top of the image area. I am actually in the process of mounting the pj right now and if I need to, now is my best time to make adjustments.

Thank you Mark for all your help!

Mark (jkmw)

The Studiotek surface consists of small planar particles distributed at random angles, this optical coating is applied to a mostly Lambertian substrate. The net effect is a surface with mostly Lambertian behavior, but with a slight bias away from the Lambertian hemispherical distribution characteristic. (quick review, Lambertian surfaces take incoming light and reflect the light in a diffuse manner, so that though projected light arriving can be collimated and highly directional, light exiting the surface is distributed into an even hemispheric assortment of energy, at proportionally distributed reduced intensity).

Back to the angled particles. So light which is not diffused hemi spherically, is partially reflected in a distribution, centered on a complementary angle.(quick review for newbies, complementary angles added together have a sum of 90 degrees). To make it even more complicated, the individual angled particles are coated with a diffusing pigment. Some light is absorbed as well.

So to find out the probable path of light hitting the angled surfaces on the screen fabric at an angle, (read slowly, sorry), you ray-trace the light back to the source, (lens), find that angle, then subtract that angle from 90, there is the bias line denoting the center of the distribution destinations of that light, because our optical coating is applied at many angles, and just part of the light hits the angled particles. Most of the light is diffused. This preserves white field uniformity. The fabric is a blend of diffusion and angular reflectivity. It is actually much more a diffusing surface than a "gain" surface.

Let’s go a little further. So as the gain value of a given angular reflective surface increases, usually, a higher proportion of the light is directed angularly, and less is diffused in the Lambertian model. It gets fairly complex, but it is consistent. Silver screen fabrics ordinarily operate at the opposite extreme of Studiotek, in that they do more angular reflecting and much less Lambertian diffusing.

For you Mark, choosing Studiotek, the partial angular reflectivity is not something you need to dwell upon. It is more of a consideration for users of Firehawk and other competing products with a greater proportion of angular reflectivity behavior.

The Studiotek surface consists of small planar particles distributed at random angles, this optical coating is applied to a mostly Lambertian substrate. The net effect is a surface with mostly Lambertian behavior, but with a slight bias away from the Lambertian hemispherical distribution characteristic. (quick review, Lambertian surfaces take incoming light and reflect the light in a diffuse manner, so that though projected light arriving can be collimated and highly directional, light exiting the surface is distributed into an even hemispheric assortment of energy, at proportionally distributed reduced intensity).

Back to the angled particles. So light which is not diffused hemi spherically, is partially reflected in a distribution, centered on a complementary angle.(quick review for newbies, complementary angles added together have a sum of 90 degrees). To make it even more complicated, the individual angled particles are coated with a diffusing pigment. Some light is absorbed as well.

So to find out the probable path of light hitting the angled surfaces on the screen fabric at an angle, (read slowly, sorry), you ray-trace the light back to the source, (lens), find that angle, then subtract that angle from 90, there is the bias line denoting the center of the distribution destinations of that light, because our optical coating is applied at many angles, and just part of the light hits the angled particles. Most of the light is diffused. This preserves white field uniformity. The fabric is a blend of diffusion and angular reflectivity. It is actually much more a diffusing surface than a "gain" surface.

Let’s go a little further. So as the gain value of a given angular reflective surface increases, usually, a higher proportion of the light is directed angularly, and less is diffused in the Lambertian model. It gets fairly complex, but it is consistent. Silver screen fabrics ordinarily operate at the opposite extreme of Studiotek, in that they do more angular reflecting and much less Lambertian diffusing.

For you Mark, choosing Studiotek, the partial angular reflectivity is not something you need to dwell upon. It is more of a consideration for users of Firehawk and other competing products with a greater proportion of angular reflectivity behavior.


WOW! Thanks again Mark, I'm really getting into the physics of this thing. Maybe I missed my calling. So in a word of caution to self, the fact that the Studiotek is more diffusing than reflective, (I know that oversimplifies it alot), implies that ambient light will be equally diffused....oops, and accounts for the fact that angular reflectivity should not be considered an issue, (or less of an issue), with the Studiotek screen. Now I can mount the pj within the Sony specs and be satisfied I did it correctly.

I really appreciate the time and effort you put into answering my questions! In my book you are a Gentleman and a Scholar.

Sincerely,

Mark
(jkmw)

Mark

I just wanted to let you know that I order my Stewart Grayhawk RS 83.75"wide here from Jason, from order to delivery It only took 3 days :D . I order the screen to go with my Samsung 710AE what a perfect match. I was using a Studiotek 130 which worked great with my CRT and the Samsung DLP but I was missing the very deepest blacks with the DLP. With the Grayhawk RS I now have the blacks and the great colors I had with the Studiotek.

I just wanted to say thanks for all the info you post here and thank everybody and Stewart for making a great product and great customer service :) . Thanks again.

Brad

To Stewart: How do I go about getting a piece of Firehawk screen to compare to the DNP screen. I just got a DNP a few days ago and while the image is bright with ambient light I am seeing a rather "grainy" looking image with noticeable hot spots.

thanks
arlie

ahammons: Please let us hear how the FH-DNP comparison comes out for you.

To Stewart: How do I go about getting a piece of Firehawk screen to compare to the DNP screen. I just got a DNP a few days ago and while the image is bright with ambient light I am seeing a rather "grainy" looking image with noticeable hot spots.

thanks
arlie

I requested screen samples from Stewart via their website and received them a few weeks later. It took longer than the other screen companies -- but the samples were 3 or 4 times as large as what anyone else sent me. (I think they were waiting until they had large scraps, perhaps?)

I will let you know what the comparsion is when I get a sample from Stewart. I did just go to their website and sent a request to comments@stewartfilm.com. That was the only email addr I found on the site.

arlie

Where do I get a Stewart StudioTek 130 screen not at list price?

Right here at AVS. Look for Jason or Dave

How do I contact Jason or Dave

Contact your AVS team for pricing information and details!
877-823-4452

If it's Jason tell him scottyb sent ya.

I have had my Ruby/Studiotek 130 combo up and running for about a week now and I wanted to offer my initial observations. As with all Stewart screens the frame is I think, exceptionally well made. The frame assembly was precise and the screen snapped on without a hitch. The Studiotek 130 surface provides a detailed and vivid image, that is, with ambient light under total control. There are No hot spots or moire effects. I feel the need to reiterate my statement that the image from my Ruby is stunning on this screen....with the caveat that the viewer must be in a totaly dark, 0 ambient light controlled room. Turn on a table lamp and poof, the screen begins to wash out. Once any ambient light is introduced that causes this effect, any additional light increases the 'wash out' but not as dramatically as that initial input. I have found Mark Robinson's statement, "The Studiotek surface will really look much better if you eliminate all of the decorative element lighting while viewing is underway.", to be absolutely correct. Any body else notice this effect?

I would hope that while the Studiotek gives up image quality in the presence of any ambient light, it gains the edge with a precisely defined, dramatically vivid image when used in a totaly dark home theater setting. This is what I was looking for when deciding upon which screen to purchase. But now I must come up with a way to shield the room/screen when the kids come in and go out, come in, go out ad infinitum, through the rear doors :( . Maybe I'll convert my adjacent dining room into a lobby ;) . (to Wife, "What do you think hunny? OK?")

@ m Robinson or anyone else that can provide the answer

I am looking for an angular reflective white screen in the 1.3-1.5 gain range. I do not like the diffusing of the 130 for HDTV. Is there a Stewart screen for my application? Also, I do not like the gray Firehawk ... too dim looking and I see the screen through the image in many scenes.

k

@ m Robinson or anyone else that can provide the answer

I am looking for an angular reflective white screen in the 1.3-1.5 gain range. I do not like the diffusing of the 130 for HDTV. Is there a Stewart screen for my application? Also, I do not like the gray Firehawk ... too dim looking and I see the screen through the image in many scenes.

k

Sounds to me like you're looking for the Dalite HighPower.

Edit: Oops, the HP is retro-reflective. Sorry.

@ m Robinson or anyone else that can provide the answer

I am looking for an angular reflective white screen in the 1.3-1.5 gain range. I do not like the diffusing of the 130 for HDTV. Is there a Stewart screen for my application? Also, I do not like the gray Firehawk ... too dim looking and I see the screen through the image in many scenes.

k

I don't see the screen through the scene's with my 123" firehawk. If you're local, you're welcome to stop by and see for yourself. If you DO see it though, don't point it out!

Sounds to me like you're looking for the Dalite HighPower.

Edit: Oops, the HP is retro-reflective. Sorry.


Yea, I have a high power sample and it would work for HDTV except for the retro-reflective part of it. I considered moving to a coffee table mount it's that good. Very smooth surface which is what I need now and for future 1080p surely.

One screen DOES NOT last a lifetime IMHO. At 480p all looked similar. At 720p, I see differences, some I like, some I do not. At 1080p I know what I'll need so I am getting a screen for that application based off of my experience moving from 480 to 720.

k

I do not like the gray Firehawk ... too dim looking

If the Firehawk, at 1.3 gain is too dim, I doubt that any screen at 1.3 or 1.5 will be much different. If what you like is the Dalite hipower, except for the angularity, you may need to ask around in a non-Stewart thread for advice.

Mark,

Is there any way to identify Stewart screen material already mounted in an existing theater, without paperwork or any way to contact the previous owner. It happens to be a 16:9 format, 89"x50" with what appears to be a Deluxe frame.

I can be pretty sure it is not a GrayHawk.

Thanks for your support.

Mark, (and others),

I own a JVC HX2 which has been calibrated by W. Phelps. It's great, puts out 500+ lumens at 1100 contrast (after calibration). I'm very happy with it. I'm trying to pick a decent screen now. The current contenders are the StudioTek and the Firehawk. I have a SilverStar sample on the way. I do have some ambient light but when I really want to view a movie, I'm able to get the room dark.

My projector is ceiling mounted 14 ft away from the screen (at screen height) and I sit about 11-12 ft away from the screen. I want to run my setup in 2.35:1 constant height. I plan for a 40" x 94" screen with 16:9 content showing in the center 72" of the screen. The screen will be 28" off the ground, going up to 68" up. When sitting on my couch/daybed (very low) I tend have my head about 3ft up. I sit about 2 ft off center when viewing.

I find that there's a HUGE drop off in brightness towards the far edge with the Firehawk material, this is much less noticable on the StudioTek material. I prefer the firehawk material when I'm on center looking at the sample in the center of the screen area. It has a it of sparkle, which I don't really mind so much, and some color shift (things look every so slightly cooler). On the whole though the picture on the StudioTek, black levels and shadow detail in dark scenes aside, looks better.

So now my question is, sorry for the long run in, can I correct for the drop in gain, and create a more uniform viewing experience by building a curved screen, or even a Torus with the Firehawk material?

R-S

S Giles,
There is a serial number on the screen binding, located along the bottom edge of the fabric, on the audience right side. You can gently un-snap 8-9 snaps and fold the material upward and see this tag. We'll be able to attribute and access the record for that unit.

Raoul,
A single axis curve would normalize the incident angles somewhat and improve center to edge uniformity. A single axis curve would also reduce pincushion artifact from use of a short throw anamorphic. If you are using the typical screen material samples, you see the total net effect of the narrower Firehawk viewing cone in the most unflattering way possible. If you were looking at a whole screen on the other hand, although the difference is still there, the very gradual nature of the fall-off is much more acceptable to the eye.

Regarding the two fabrics in conjuction with your room and the JVC projector, the Studiotek does corral you into the need to diligently control ambient light. The upside is the viewing cone improvement and the more uniform white field performance. The Firehawk gives up viewing cone, but allows a more versatile viewing environment, and will help with the black level and shadow detail.

Mark,

I had the samples taped in a column on top of each other, GreyHawk, FireHawk and StudioTek. I moved them around a fair amount and I have to say, the off axis drop off seems really drastic when you compare the two materials side by side. I didn't like the GreyHawk, I realize it's useful for ambient light rejection and enhancing black but the level of white crush was too much for me. The other thing that I found a bit strange about the firehawk was the material never completly disappeared like the StudioTek, however the rest of it looks quite nice. Regarding the single axis curve, how deep would the curve have to be for an 8.5ft wide screen? Are we talking about a circular curve or an elliptical curve?


R-S

With an anamorphic lens? The radius would not be less than 30 feet, and would be circular. The rise being some portion of about 3 inches per side. This varies with throw distance, the shorter the throw, the more curvature required to provide a rectangular viewing area, free of pincushion.

Thanks Mark. Is there a formula I can use? I have a 14 ft throw and sit 12 ft away. I want an 8.5ft wide 2.35:1 screen.

I have had my Ruby/Studiotek 130 combo up and running for about a week now and I wanted to offer my initial observations. As with all Stewart screens the frame is I think, exceptionally well made. The frame assembly was precise and the screen snapped on without a hitch. The Studiotek 130 surface provides a detailed and vivid image, that is, with ambient light under total control. There are No hot spots or moire effects. I feel the need to reiterate my statement that the image from my Ruby is stunning on this screen....with the caveat that the viewer must be in a totaly dark, 0 ambient light controlled room. Turn on a table lamp and poof, the screen begins to wash out. Once any ambient light is introduced that causes this effect, any additional light increases the 'wash out' but not as dramatically as that initial input. I have found Mark Robinson's statement, "The Studiotek surface will really look much better if you eliminate all of the decorative element lighting while viewing is underway.", to be absolutely correct. Any body else notice this effect?

I would hope that while the Studiotek gives up image quality in the presence of any ambient light, it gains the edge with a precisely defined, dramatically vivid image when used in a totaly dark home theater setting. This is what I was looking for when deciding upon which screen to purchase. But now I must come up with a way to shield the room/screen when the kids come in and go out, come in, go out ad infinitum, through the rear doors :( . Maybe I'll convert my adjacent dining room into a lobby ;) . (to Wife, "What do you think hunny? OK?")


I have the same setup and I've seen the same effect. Great when it is pitch black - but noticably unsatisfying when there is any light - fo example when someone opens the fridge in the adjoining kitchen.

Hello everyone. I have a Faroudja 1080phd and dvp1080 on the way. My dealer put in the order for the GrayHawk Reference @ 122.75 (or so the drawing states) diag. My questions are:

1. Is the Faroudja bright enough for the GrayHawk?
2. Am I pushing it in terms of screen size in terms of brightness/contrast?
3. What are the main differences in terms of flat and curved screens? I saw the picture thread and I must say those looks AWESOME. I really liked lawdawg's screen and room. Very clean and stealth. But what's up with the curved screen? Would I be better off with it instead of a flat one?
4. Any other reccomendations?

Just some info:

Room is light controlled. There are NO windows and it is completely dark. Room dimensions are 23' deep, 19' wide, 7.5' high (I could've made it about 10' but didn't, I'll explain that later if anyone wants to know). Any suggestions?

Best regards,
Chris

I have just tried the GreyHawk and I would NOT recommend it for a completly light controlled room. Expecially with your projector. With 2100:1 contrast ratio after calibration and 700 lumens your projector is reasonably bright (not a light canon) and has good contrast. It has a BEAUTIFUL picture which in my opinion, you'll ruin with a GreyHawk. The screen is good for ambient light control but you don't need that here. You have a cave to watch in!

It is true that D-ILA's can use a little help with black level from a grey screen but when you see a non white white you'll wonder why you paid for this set up.

I would either go for a Stewart StudioTek130 which is brighter and for the most part a lot cleaner looking than the GreyHawk. That's my opinion. I have the JVC HX2 , it doesn't have the contrast of your PJ but it is optimized by Phelps like yours is and is a DILA like yours is. On my machine, the black levels here can use all the help they can get and I still decided against the GreyHawk because of t what it does to white in the picture.

You basically get 700 Lumens / (71 * 109 / 144) (area) = 13. ft lamberts of brightness. If you use the the GreyHawk that drops by 10% (0.9 gain) to 11.7 which in a dark room viewing is really fine. The bulb will age and you'll probably end up watching about 10 ftL but again, it's ok in a dark room.

In my opinion, the correct screen to get, if you're not going for a super bright screen is the Screen Reseach. It's a white negative gain screen. It'll drop your black levels without harming the white levels. You can also then place your center behind the screen for the best sound quality.

If you don't mind the black levels and prefer a slightly brighter image, then go for the StudioTek 130 ((16+ ftL on your projector) It's just a superior screen to the GreyHawk. Your projector doesn't have the brightness for the GreyHawk and it really messes with the peak whites. It has a higher gain than the Screen Research and is also a refrence screen.

If you're going to curve your screen, and you're doing this via an installer etc, then spring for a curved 2.35:1 studiotek screen in constant height mode and an ISCO 3 lens. Much more cinematic by far!

The firehawk is also another option but I wouldn't use it for the same reason's I wouldn't use the GreyHawk. Improving blacks shoulon't come at the cost of harming your whites! If you do go for the FireHawk then ship your machine back to phelps for recalibration.

Raoul,

Thanks for responding to this one. I completely agree, it would be a shame to put this projector on a gray screen! We demo it at trade shows with a 108" wide ST130 and it looks gorgeous.

I agree about the Screen Research screen but not at the size this person is going to use. You said "without harming the white levels" but that is incorrect. The overall output drops, including white. I think you meant "without harming the color". The SR screen is completely neutral.

William

Yes. It doesn't harm the color, it will drop the ft lamberts a bit. That will probably help increase black levels. By and large, to my eyes, the StudioTek, in the right environment, an environment he seems to have, produces the best overall image.

I do agree about the screen size though, too big by half for this machine on either GreyHawk or Screen Research. I guess I was saying, if I were choosing between a GreyHawk and a SR I'd choose the SR!

Thanks for the advice. I visited my dealer today and asked him to change the order. I just hope that it's not too late because he told me that once they start fabricating the screen the order can not be cancelled. The new order will be a StudioTek 130, 2.35:1 @ 120". I asked him to get my prices on both flat and curved versions. How would I exactly go about calibrating the unit for a curved screen anyhow? I know about the 2.35:1 lenses but not sure about the curved screen. Anyone? Thanks again everyone.

Your dealer should eat the price of the GreyHawk, he should have known better than to recommend it for such a large screen with such a low lumens projector. Unless, of course, he told you about it. Black levels play a very large part in projecting a decent image but they're just one factor. Given that your machine is a Faroudja and is htere for a Phelps calibrated D-ILA from JVC you'll do very well on the StudioTek.

Also, you should check with AVS about their prices for Stewart Screens. They may be able to get you a deal on a curved screen. From your thread I though you had a 16:9 screen, now you're ordering a 2.35:1 screen, which is great but did you buy an anamorphic lens? Will you be buying a micro-perfed screen so you can place your front speakers behind the screen? This may eat a foot or so into your room, but will be worth it. Make sure you have the throw distances required for your projector to be able to put out an image that wide with an anamorphic lens.

R-S

My dealer has yet to have anyone order the DILA projectors so I am his first. As for a lens I have not decided yet on which to buy. I am looking at ISCO but their website states that the JVC HD10K is "pending". I am NOT hiding my speakers as I will be using this system for a good bit of music as well. The L/R speakers are B&W 800D's powered by 2 McIntosh MC1201's and the center is a HTM2D fed by a MC207.

Mr. Phelps, are the lenses on the MF1 interchangeable? Can I swap the long throw for the short throw lens? I only ask because Faroudja's site doesn't have the MF1 listed yet and I can't find anything about the subject on JVC's site for the HD10K.

Mark,
Let me pick your brain on ST 130 and UM 150 for a moment.

I am trying to decide between a 2.35 ST 130 or UM 150 with MicroPerf, in 110" or 120". I'm pretty sure I can reach reference white luminance with a gain of 1.3 in high lamp mode after calibration. I have one four foot seating row at 14' from the screen. Viewing position from far left seat to far right seat is 80". Projector throw is 16', but can be more. It seems to me that this is friendly to uniformity in general, is it not? Do you get the sense that UM 150 would be a good choice in this case?

I looked at the UM 150 Gain Performance graph on the Stewart site. At my viewing distance (14'), the far left and right seats (40" off center each) are only 13 degrees off axis. The graph indicates that the far left and right would only be down .1 in gain (at 1.4 gain). Microperf costs us .18 in negative gain resulting in a net gain for UM 150 of 1.32, correct? That's seems like a winning scenario for UM 150...unless I'm missing something.

What say you?

Chris,

You cannot swap the lens. You have to order it with the lens you want. Each projector is individually Optimized with the lens it ships with.

William

If that's the case then it's best to tell William what screen you're using it with too!

The Ultramatte 150 has a pretty wide viewing cone. You are specifiying a fairly large screen, 42 square feet, so the choice is correct, and you'll remain flexible in so far as a projector you might source later on, wouldn't necessarily have to be as much of a light cannon.

Lets take a calibrated projector putting out 500 real lumens, we divide for square footage, yeilding 11.9 fl. at unity gain. Multiplying that by 1.5 gives you the flexibility to remain comfortably within or slightly above SMPTE spec. even perforated. So I validate your plan.

I'm a broken record on this, but long throw is the key to being able to use a screen with gain, and have satisfying off axis performance and center to edge uniformity.

Thanks, Mark.

I'm a broken record on this, but long throw is the key to being able to use a screen with gain, and have satisfying off axis performance and center to edge uniformity.
Right now at 16' throw to a 120" screen, that is a 1.6 throw. Adequate? I can be a bit longer.

Let's take this another step. How would a curved screen fit this scenario? What must I consider, or should I avoid?

I'm a broken record on this, but long throw is the key to being able to use a screen with gain, and have satisfying off axis performance and center to edge uniformity.The viewing ratio is an important part of the equation also. For people who want to sit close there is only so much that long throw can do for an angular-reflective screen with high gain. Retro-reflective high gain screens follow different rules to a large degree and the common wisdom about high gain screens doesn't necessarily apply to them (like longer throw can make uniformity worse with them).

--Darin

If that's the case then it's best to tell William what screen you're using it with too!

Okay, I called up Stewart earlier and good news, my original order for the GrayHawk was cancelled. I forgot the name of the gentleman that I spoke to but he even spoke about this thread. I was suprised. "Wait, you're from New York and you have a MF1 on the way. I read your post on avsforums." Great guy to deal with. Very helpful. I asked for the screen dimensions and I'm going with a Stewart StudioTek 130 @ 2.35:1 @ 130" diag.

I also called Meridian/Faroudja and the gentleman there said that 130" is about max. After that I'd start to lose a bit too much brightness but 130" should be alright. Very helpful man as well.

Mr. Phelps, you asked to know about the width of my screen. The viewable width is 119.5" and the height is 51". It will be flat.

I have one four foot seating row at 14' from the screen.
Meant to say "one four seat row..."

I've searched through the Stewart website to look for masking options but I couldn't find anything that pointed to a fixed screen that has masking. I'm looking for vertical masking but it seems that it's only available to roll down screens. Does anyone know? I get this feeling that I'll have to do a DIY masking once I get my screen.

Stewart offers both vertical and horizontal masking for their fixed screens.
http://www.stewartfilmscreen.com/engineering_specifications/vswem.html
http://www.stewartfilmscreen.com/engineering_specifications/hzswem.html
http://www.stewartfilmscreen.com/engineering_specifications/4way.html

I've searched through the Stewart website to look for masking options but I couldn't find anything that pointed to a fixed screen that has masking. I'm looking for vertical masking but it seems that it's only available to roll down screens. Does anyone know? I get this feeling that I'll have to do a DIY masking once I get my screen.

You need to call up Jason Turk at AVScience and talk to him about a screen. He'll sort you out with a good price and knows about all of the Stewart options. Stewarts curved screens also have masking.

Stewart offers both vertical and horizontal masking for their fixed screens.
http://www.stewartfilmscreen.com/engineering_specifications/vswem.html
http://www.stewartfilmscreen.com/engineering_specifications/hzswem.html
http://www.stewartfilmscreen.com/engineering_specifications/4way.html

Thank you Mr. Erksine! Couldn't find a fixed screen with vertical masking, only horizontal which I didn't want.

Raoul,

Based on your opinion, would I need a curved screen? After speaking to Stewart Filmscreen, they said it was more a matter of opinion. If my screen was ginormous I would most likely need it but if not, then it's not necessary. How would I take care of pincushioning and a anormophic lens on a curved screen?

What's with your dealer? He should be able to answer these questions for you.

An anamorphic lens (depending on throw distance) can create pincushioning. The curved screen solves the pincushion. In addition a curved screen will improve uniformity. The amount of the curve required would need to come from either Meridian, your dealer, or Stewart. It is likely that neither Meridian nor your dealer have alot of experience with CH 2.35:1 applications (yet) so Stewart may be your better source; however, do your dealer the courtesy of informing him that you wish to speak to Stewart directly.

Just call Jason at AVS, tell him your projector, order your anamorphic lens through him (with your rig it seems like you're in the ISCO3 league) and then they'll work out, with Stewart, what the curve should be.

For a screen your size, a curve is encouraged.

I also agree with Denis, call your dealer and tell him you're ordering your screen through someone with experience in this area.

I DID speak with Stewart and the gentleman told me that it was a matter of personal preference unless the screen was like 150"+. I also spoke to Mr. Pointdexter today about the ISCO and he's running a 150" flat. I don't think it'd be a problem. I'll have to call Stewart one more time tomorrow. Is there anyone that I should specifically speak to?

You can run it flat on 120" wide but you really do want to have the curve for uniformity. Mind you, on a Studiotek, the difference will be smallish. Don't sweat the curve too much if it's going to be hard however it looks like you're going top end all the way with the ISCO, Projector, etc. so you shouldn't cut corners on the screen.

Invest in a plane ticket and come to Atlanta and see our 120" curved screen and ISCO lens. I would also differ with Stewart in that the choice is based on physics (throw distance, optics, viewing angles).

Yes, I know what you are both saying. I'm awaiting an e-mail from ISCO for recommendations based on JVC's HD10K since the Faroudja uses the same lens. My main concern was pincushioning since the MF1 doesn't have any keystone adjustments. They're not big on it.

Is the Faroudja the same as teh HD10K or the HD2K?

Did you try using:

http://www.jvcdig.com/lens_calculator.htm

the lens calculator there will let you work out what your image will look like when you dial in the correct numbers.

Other person to speak to about this is Phelps as his name is on the product. Be sure to send William all your info when you do send it for calibration, mount orientation (table or ceiling), send him the lens and if you buy an exotic screen, send him a screen sample to calibrate against.

Is the Faroudja the same as teh HD10K or the HD2K?

Did you try using:

http://www.jvcdig.com/lens_calculator.htm

the lens calculator there will let you work out what your image will look like when you dial in the correct numbers.

Other person to speak to about this is Phelps as his name is on the product. Be sure to send William all your info when you do send it for calibration, mount orientation (table or ceiling), send him the lens and if you buy an exotic screen, send him a screen sample to calibrate against.

The Faroudja DILA-1080pHD is based on the HD2K and the DILA-1080MF1 is based on the new HD10K which is what I'm getting.

Raoul, thanks for the suggestions. Mr. Phelps and I have e-mailed eachother a few times already. I don't think calibration is neccessary right now since the calibration was done using a Stewart StudioTek 130 screen which is also what I'm getting. I've also spoken to Mr. Rawls at Faroudja who happens to live in NY. He's doesn't have an opinion yet on curved screens but he'd wants to come by to see my setup for 2.35:1 purposes as they are working on a lens solution as well. I'd wait for Faroudja's lens but I don't want to put this off any longer and I'm pretty sure they will be using ISCO's as well.

You can run it flat on 120" wide but you really do want to have the curve for uniformity. Mind you, on a Studiotek, the difference will be smallish.If going with a curve the 1.5 gain might even make sense because of the reduction in hotspotting that the curve would provide. I don't know if their 1.5 gain material has any other downsides compared to the 1.3 gain material though.

--Darin

I agree. I thought about that but didn't want to upset CChoi any more. I mean, why not go for the VideoMatte 2.0 and have Phelps calibrate accordingly?

I agree. I thought about that but didn't want to upset CChoi any more. I mean, why not go for the VideoMatte 2.0 and have Phelps calibrate accordingly?

Because with the StudioTek, I most probably won't have to. This is an enjoyable experience but I don't want it to turn in to a hassle. Obviously, it takes time to do things right but right now, I don't want to spend any more time than I have to. ETA for my equipment (except screen) is due next week, Thurs-Fri. I'll get everything ready, get my screen, and if it needs to be tweaked, I'll send it to Mr. Phelps. If not, even better.

Raoul, using JVC's lens calc, it seems as if I will have a problem with keystone and pincushioning. I'm not sure if I'm doing it right. Not to mention that my dealer and I haven't exactly decided the mounting height/distance. We're both guessing anywhere from 19-22 feet or so. The room is 23 feet deep. Don't forget that I'm adding the ISCO III so the longer the better. Or am I thinking wrong?

The lens offset on the JVC is designed so that if the projector lens is at the height of the top of the screen you'll get no keystoning. Similarly, if it's a table mount, the projector should be at the bottom of the screen. Design your projector mounting accordingly.

R-S

The lens offset on the JVC is designed so that if the projector lens is at the height of the top of the screen you'll get no keystoning...


Not in this case. The DILA1080-MF1 has lens (image) shift.

oh. very nice. so then will he get keystoning?

r-s

If going with a curve the 1.5 gain might even make sense because of the reduction in hotspotting that the curve would provide. I don't know if their 1.5 gain material has any other downsides compared to the 1.3 gain material though.
I just did a busy bit of testing of UM 150 and ST 130 anticipating UM's 1.5 gain being necessary in my application. Thought you would like to hear results.

Although capable of an extra foot lambert or two, Ultramatte had some idiocyncracies that bear mentioning. The higher gain makes a very unforgiving surface; the slightest undulation being very visible. I am more aware of the surface of UM. The gain causes that, and the surface has tiny little sparklies that attracted my attention too much at times (high luminance in program material).

Uniformity was an important issue to look at. Edge (last quarter of area) luminance was interesting. Of course the PJ naturally has probably 10-15% edge fall-off. The gain of the screens compounded that...depending. UM had the most serious fall off, about 35%. ST was less pronounced, but cumulatively more than is allowed in the DCI digital cinema specs. It seems the most improvement on this would be made using a curved screen. Further testing revealed that ST 130 would do very well with a curve and get edge luminance up to within the DCI digital cinema specs and tolerances (actually very near the nominal specs; DCI specs nominal, and tolerances for both reference viewing theaters, and commercial theaters).

oh. very nice. so then will he get keystoning? r-s

Not if the image shift is adjusted properly. That's the point to having image shift.

I'm installing an Optoma HD72 DLP projector in a fully light controlled room. I am planning to use a 100" Stewart screen. The projector will be mounted about 12.5 to 13.5 feet from the screen. My front seating will be probably about 12 feet from the screen.

I am trying to decide what fabric to use my dealer says I could go with either the Firehawk or Grayhawk?

Any advice on which way to go or other alternatives to be considered?

I am about to assemble and install my 110" diag Firehawk. I have heard that these can be quite tricky to hang, although in searching this thread, noone seems to have asked this question. Are there specific tips, or is it simply not as hard to do as I am imagining? Thanks in advance.

I'm between a Screen Research 110" wide 16:9 and a Stewart Studio Tek 130 w/Micro Perf. Does anyone know the retail pricing for the StudioTek in the size I'm looking for?

At this point, I think price is the only factor I'm looking at between the two screens, but if someone has opinions as to the firehawk or other offerings please chime in. I'm planning on using the Optoma H81, which is not released yet.

--SimpleTheater

ScreenResearch is 0.9 gain. Stewart StudioTek 1.3 gain. The StudioTek will appear brighter. The StudioTek w/ MicroPerf will require equalization, the ScreenResearch will not.

ScreenResearch is 0.9 gain. Stewart StudioTek 1.3 gain. The StudioTek will appear brighter. The StudioTek w/ MicroPerf will require equalization, the ScreenResearch will not.

Yes, I'm familiar with that information. The nice thing about Stewart is they can microperf any of their screens, so if I want a neutral screen I can go that route.

THX requires equalization, but I know HAA recommends rolling of the high frequencies, and some say do NOT use the Stewart equalizer because you actually want the roll off (obviously an area of debate, since THX requires the EQ for certification).

So, back to my first question - anyone know pricing for Stewart? I don't want discount pricing because I know that's not allowed, MSRP is fine.

Thanks,
SimpleTheater

Yes, I'm familiar with that information. The nice thing about Stewart is they can microperf any of their screens, so if I want a neutral screen I can go that route.

THX requires equalization, but I know HAA recommends rolling of the high frequencies, and some say do NOT use the Stewart equalizer because you actually want the roll off (obviously an area of debate, since THX requires the EQ for certification).

So, back to my first question - anyone know pricing for Stewart? I don't want discount pricing because I know that's not allowed, MSRP is fine.

Thanks,
SimpleTheater

If memory serves, a 110" Luxus Deluxe ScreenWall fixed screen (not a motorized drop screen) is around $2,400 MSRP.

If memory serves, a 110" Luxus Deluxe ScreenWall fixed screen (not a motorized drop screen) is around $2,400 MSRP.
Thanks, but I doubt that's w/micro perf or Screen Research would be out of business.

I'm getting 110" wide 16:9 quotes on SR for around $5k. If Stewart really is 1/2 the price, I'll go with them immediately.

--SimpleTheater

Thanks, but I doubt that's w/micro perf or Screen Research would be out of business.

I'm getting 110" wide 16:9 quotes on SR for around $5k. If Stewart really is 1/2 the price, I'll go with them immediately.

--SimpleTheater

Sorry, I forgot the key ingredient in the above formula, which is the screen material: StudioTek 130 without perforation.

Although not a newbie in many areas when I clicked over into the projector/screen forums I am in the deep end treading water!

I have decided on the IN76 for my projector.

It will be ceiling mounted between 10' -11' feet away from the screen. I think this is the recommended throw distance for this projector.

My viewing distance is 10' feet. I would like a 92" screen

It will be in my basement where light can be controlled but I would like my recessed lighting on in areas as people gather around the bar and I can have sports on the screen.

After reading this thread I think the FireHawk G2 might be the screen for such an area but I hope you can’t see the screen through the source like one person pointed out.

Also, it was mentioned with the studio tek? (I think) that when the person stood up the screen got brighter? I would prefer consistency from center to left and right. My off center viewing is small. In other words I have a sectional that does not extend to far past center. However, off center viewing would be great for people standing by the bar or hanging out around the room.

Please recommend a screen for this application.

Thanks!

What size image are you specifying? Where is the bar lighting in relationship to the screen, and can all the other zones be extinguished? Firehawk is definitely a candidate but so could Grayhawk RS, but that would be tougher to light. The Grayhawk is a bit better at disappering. The use of Studiotek would be unlikely to succeed in conjunction with the bar lighting.

The idea of the gain changing a lot when a viewer stands, would be a phenomenon of a really short throw setup, with a lot of vertical shift, and sounds like a common scenario which applies to retro-reflective fabrics a bit more than angular reflective fabrics.

My preference is in general to favor the longer throw option within your room constraints, as this will normalize various angles, reducing hot spot artifacts and widening the available viewing cone for all 2nd choice seating locations in the room.

Thanks for considering Stewart Filmscreen!

I'm planning on getting a new Luxus Deluxe screen for my theatre.

Source is a Mitsubishi HC3 (1300 lumens) ceiling mounted 13' from the front wall.

I'm sitting almost directly under the projector.

The room is 16 ft wide and 18 ft front to back, 8ft ceilings.

Some ambient light from a hallway during the day. I can make it pitch black if I close the door.

I'd like a 1.78:1 format screen but don't know what material is best suited for my configuration. Also what size would work best? I'm thinking 100", is 110" too big?

Thanks,
Vernon

For what it's worth, I'm sitting 14'5" away with a 123" Firehawk and couldn't be happier! I'm using an Infocus IN76 and it is perfectly suited to the Firehawk's 1.25 gain material. Still best to watch during the evening hours and control the light though - but that's obvious. G'luck!

Does anyone know how well a Stewart Videomatte 200 MicroPerf screen would work with the Ruby? I'm interested in a higher gain THX screen.
Pro's/Con's?

I've got a Ruby in house right now. There is no moire at any size. I plan to test the lumen output over the range of the zoom lens, this week and see what sort of impact various throw distances will have. Ultramatte 200 is an excellent screen. I would recommend generally that longer throws work better with it, for minimization of hot-spot problems. One must also control ambient lighting to a higher degree in comparison with Firehawk.

Ultramatte 200 is an excellent screen. I would recommend generally that longer throws work better with it, for minimization of hot-spot problems. One must also control ambient lighting to a higher degree in comparison with Firehawk.[/QUOTE]

Mark,

I was refering to the Videomatte 200 but since you mentioned it, what is the difference between the Videomatte 200 and the Ultramatte 200?

Also since the viewing cone is close to the Firehawk G2 (26deg. vs 24deg.) wouldn't these white screens reject ambient light much better than a Studiotek 130? I know gray rejects better than white but doesn't the viewing cone also help this?

I would like not to have a gray screen if possible since I like colors better on a white screen. But my room does have light colored walls.

The UM-200 and Videomatte are pretty similar in gain, but UM-200 is available in larger sizes. Videomatte, years ago had a gain factor of 2.2 but we lowered the gain as projectors improved.

As far as relative performance in ambient light, the higher gain fabrics will get you brighter rendition at the top of the dynamic range, so yes to a degree, the dark areas of image content are relatively darker. The difference is no where near the difference when a neutral density gray screen is used.

Remember that in ambient light, the cumulative light falling on the screen surface, from openings, or from cross reflected projection light, is the color black as you will see it, for all intents and purposes. Look at the screen as the projector warms up or in a fade to black, that is your system "black".

In high ambient light it will be a white color or muted non reflective white. Then we add collimated projected light above that level, to whatever level the output of the projector allows, of course multiplied by the relative gain factor. With a bright projector, you can get some dynamic range from "black"(actually dull white) to white, (brilliantly illuminated screen surface). But with a gray screen you get way blacker from the bottom of the range, and if the material is engineered to respond to collimated projected light, and is less responsive to light coming from less perpendicular angles, then black is much deeper.

The trade off is at the top of the dynamic range. It is possible to overhaul the gray tint of a screen with projected light power and get a calibrated white field. People argue this to death. It is done. A sample pasted on a whiter wall is not indicative of the performance of the screen, since cross reflection from the base material is still washing everything out. And granted you must have a more powerful projector to light a Grayhawk RS, than what is needed for a given foot Lambert performace level with a white screen. But if proper set-up is followed, an accurate picture is obtainable with either.

Firehawk is pretty good at rendering a believable white and providing blacks where other fabrics just cannot. It not as textbook white field accurate, but it makes projectors with reduced black level performance look much better, and salvages many rooms which otherwise wash out to unacceptable degrees. Images are believable and that is why people create Home Theatres.

Naturally it would be wonderful if all viewing environments were black floored, had black ceilings and walls, and so forth. It would also be nice if digital engines could acutally render a black field where IRE=0 was pitch black, few to none can. Gray screens help with both of these issues.

Thanks Mark,

Hows your testing of the Ruby coming along?

I've decided to buy a Ruby projector, mainly because of the RBE on DLP. My room dimensions are 21L x17Wx9H and is dedicated to home theater. I will be sitting 15-18 feet from the screen. I can control the light in the room and make it so I can't see my hand in front of my face, though I will not always view in complete darkness. I'm considering a Stewart Firehawk G2 deluxe screen wall, but I can't decide on the screen size. I've narrowed it down to 123" or 135" 16:9. Given the Ruby projector and given the room dimensions, which size should I go with? The projector will be ceiling mounted.



Bruce

I've decided to buy a Ruby projector, mainly because of the RBE on DLP. My room dimensions are 21L x17Wx9H and is dedicated to home theater. I will be sitting 15-18 feet from the screen. I can control the light in the room and make it so I can't see my hand in front of my face, though I will not always view in complete darkness. I'm considering a Stewart Firehawk G2 deluxe screen wall, but I can't decide on the screen size. I've narrowed it down to 123" or 135" 16:9. Given the Ruby projector and given the room dimensions, which size should I go with? The projector will be ceiling mounted.


Bruce

Are you having risers built? I would not suggest any higher then the 123, 110 might even be more prefereable. Besides the feeling of being to close to a screen that could be to large you also want to consider by the screen size how high off the floor the screen will be mounted. The larger the screen the lower the front of the screen will be towards the floor making it harder for say a second row to see the whole screen.

Thanks for the reply.

I will not add risers, the room will have the appearance of a comfy family room as opposed to a theater (beanbags, couch, etc). How high off the floor the screen is mounted is important in that I want my center channel to be correctly positioned with the two main speakers which will be relatively tall( Vienna Acoustics Strauss). What is minimum/optimal distance from the ceiling to the top the screen?

Hey Mark (or anyone else).

I am setting up a new system in my basement.

Projector will be an Epson Pro 800 with a 92" diagonal 16:9 motorized Firehawk.

The situation I am concerned with is the heighth of the screen.

My ceiling will be just over 7'.

However I was wondering about recessing the screen into the ceiling. If I recess it about 6-8 inches, I will have actual viewing screen 6-8 inches from the ceiling and about 28 inches from the floor.

The ceiling now is constructed of 12" joists, so there is plenty of room above to mount.

This will give me room for my built in LCR below the screen.

Is this doable, or am I missing something?

You are not "locked in" to any specific amount of black-drop, when you order a Stewart Screen, so adding (or subtracting) a bit of drop to suit your situation, is as easy as asking your dealer.

Hi Mark,

I purchased a Studiotek 123" and a Ruby projector today. If I've read everything in this forum correctly, in a light controlled room, the Studiotek screen is a "better" option, correct? My room dimensions are printed above.

My other choice was a Firehawk G2, but I was worried about colors not beng as saturated as they should with a grey screen. It seems that the high contrast ratio of the Ruby should produce much more satisfying black levels than did past projectors. This should create less of a need for a darker Grey screen in a light controlled room(?)

Also, given the many comments concerning the drop off of Ansi Lumens with a $1,000 400W Zenon bulb, I was concerned that not having a bright enough screen would be problematic after 400hrs with the Ruby and I wouldn't see as much picture detail in shadows.

Lastly, I have not seen the Ruby paired with a Firehawk, but I did see the Ruby with a Studiotek. The room was light controlled, but I though the picture was fine even with the light's in the room dimmed as opposed to pitch black.

Any additional opinions Mark? This is my first projector system and I want to be sure I'm heading in the right direction

Can anyone here give me some insights about how the different Stewart screen materials compare regarding sharpness and color punch. I will go with a Stewart Screenwall Deluxe and was thinking about Studiotek 130 vs. Ultramatte 150. Projector: The upcoming 1080p Optoma H81. 10 feet wide. Room completely light controlled with black walls/ceiling. I appreciate Studioteks color accuracy and "sharpness"/well defined details above all BUT I was asking myself how e.g. the Ultramatte 150 would compare - other than the slightly higher gain - when it comes specifically to "sharpness" and color fidelity/color punch? I would take more vibrant colors over absolute accuracy!

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Hi Mark,

I purchased a Studiotek 123" and a Ruby projector today. If I've read everything in this forum correctly, in a light controlled room, the Studiotek screen is a "better" option, correct? My room dimensions are printed above.

My other choice was a Firehawk G2, but I was worried about colors not beng as saturated as they should with a grey screen. It seems that the high contrast ratio of the Ruby should produce much more satisfying black levels than did past projectors. This should create less of a need for a darker Grey screen in a light controlled room(?)

Also, given the many comments concerning the drop off of Ansi Lumens with a $1,000 400W Zenon bulb, I was concerned that not having a bright enough screen would be problematic after 400hrs with the Ruby and I wouldn't see as much picture detail in shadows.

Lastly, I have not seen the Ruby paired with a Firehawk, but I did see the Ruby with a Studiotek. The room was light controlled, but I though the picture was fine even with the light's in the room dimmed as opposed to pitch black.

Any additional opinions Mark? This is my first projector system and I want to be sure I'm heading in the right direction


Most reviews I've read recommend 100" or less for best image with the least noticeable artifacts. I've seen the Ruby on a 110" Studiotech in a light controlled room and found the brightness to be satisfactory but as the lamp ages it might start looking dim. IMHO 123" is to big and will produce a dim image on a 1.3 gain Studiotech.

Most reviews I've read recommend 100" or less for best image with the least noticeable artifacts. I've seen the Ruby on a 110" Studiotech in a light controlled room and found the brightness to be satisfactory but as the lamp ages it might start looking dim. IMHO 123" is to big and will produce a dim image on a 1.3 gain Studiotech.

Do you think the ultramatte is a better choice or is there another high quality, positive gain screen that supports a ceiling mounted Ruby? I think the High Power does not like ceiling mounted projectors.

I had the vendor put the screen and ruby order on hold until I figure out which screen is best.

Do you think the ultramatte is a better choice or is there another high quality, positive gain screen that supports a ceiling mounted Ruby? I think the High Power does not like ceiling mounted projectors.

I had the vendor put the screen and ruby order on hold until I figure out which screen is best.


If you can't lower the projector enough to make the High Power work (assuming you don't mind the narrow viewing cone) maybe the Ultramatte 200 would be best for that size screen. Some like the Silver Star, I don't.
Maybe you should consider a 3 chip DLP like the Infocus 333 or 777 (higher light output) for such a large screen.
I would reduce the size of the screen for the Ruby, you choose.

Hi,

I was going to buy the Da-Lite screen for the price, but have changed my mind and want a Stewart Filmscreen. I need some advice though. Here is my setup, my room final dimensions are 13' w x 18.6' L. I want a large screen, thinking of going for a 115" to 120" diagonal 16x9 screen. My projector is the Panasonic AE900u. My seating distance will be 12' from the screen for the first row and about 16' for the second row with a 10" riser. I plan on putting my PJ on the back wall with it just about even with the top of the screen so that would put the lens close to the 16.5-17' throw spot. My room will be light controlled, building it right now!

Most of the veiwing will be done in total darkness, but on occasion I will have a single can light that will be on just above the seating area (get togethers). What screen do you guys think will work best with this setup the Studiotek 130 or the Firehawk? Also, What about the PJ picture at that distance with a 115" or 120" diagonal screen? I want it to be bright and project a great image. One of my main reasons for going for the larger screen is because I have over 600 DVD's and half are 1.78/1.85 and the other half are 2.35/2.40 size. YES, I have gone through each one and checked. When I show the the 2.35 movies on a smaller screen it will be to small and lose that theater feel for me. Anyway, looking forward to your input.


Randy

Hi,

I was going to buy the Da-Lite screen for the price, but have changed my mind and want a Stewart Filmscreen. I need some advice though. Here is my setup, my room final dimensions are 13' w x 18.6' L. I want a large screen, thinking of going for a 115" to 120" diagonal 16x9 screen. My projector is the Panasonic AE900u. My seating distance will be 12' from the screen for the first row and about 16' for the second row with a 10" riser. I plan on putting my PJ on the back wall with it just about even with the top of the screen so that would put the lens close to the 16.5-17' throw spot. My room will be light controlled, building it right now!

Most of the veiwing will be done in total darkness, but on occasion I will have a single can light that will be on just above the seating area (get togethers). What screen do you guys think will work best with this setup the Studiotek 130 or the Firehawk? Also, What about the PJ picture at that distance with a 115" or 120" diagonal screen? I want it to be bright and project a great image. One of my main reasons for going for the larger screen is because I have over 600 DVD's and half are 1.78/1.85 and the other half are 2.35/2.40 size. YES, I have gone through each one and checked. When I show the the 2.35 movies on a smaller screen it will be to small and lose that theater feel for me. Anyway, looking forward to your input.


Randy

Hi Randy, the Firehawk is an awesome screen but expensive. I have a Firehawk and its great. My room is 14x20 with a 110" screen.

You didnt mention how high your ceiling is. One of the things you should calculate into your screen size is from the top to the bottom of the screen. You may find out that with say a 120" that it might stretch to close to your floor depending on how high your mounting it. Having it to low to the floor might make it troublesome for your second row to view the bottom of the screen.

Randy,
I recently went down the same road...testing ST 130 with a Panny 900. Distances are very similar; throw 16', viewing 14'. I explored several screen sizes examining luminance, luminance uniformity, and resolution. It is a CH 2.35 system. Here is what I found.

With a CH system you have 20% more brightness. The numbers following are with a CH system. At that throw distance you will hit about 15 FL at center on low lamp. You will be able to go to about a 100" wide screen before going below 12 FL in low lamp. You might be able to hit 12 FL on high lamp on a 110" screen. ST 130 looks really good because of that little bit of gain...but at the throw distance, and sitting distance you are planning, with a screen wider than about 90" you will have some lack of uniformity. It will not be particularly noticable to the casual eye on a 100 IRE full field, but you can certainly measure it. As I remember, it was down about 30% at the edges on a 115" screen. On dark scenes you may notice you are losing shadow detail near the edges due to this. Is that a deal-breaker? I wouldn't think so, but at least you know what to expect with your Panny. BTW, all the above is a solid screen, not Microperf.

With regards to resolution, the Panny still looked quite good at those sizes with HD-DVD CH 2.35, but not as good as 1080p is going to look.

It seems the only risk you will have is getting the screen too big for the Panny to reach the proper luminance for a large screen in a large room. The ST 130 gain will help you with that. I personally would not choose Firehawk in that room and projector, due to the gray which will eat up too much light. If you're gonna spend a fair amount of money with Stewart, it seems logical to carefully consider giving it the best chance. If you are planning to upgrade to a higher lumen1080 machine down the road, going 110"+ might be worth it. You could limp by for while with a picture that was a little under illuminated.

Does the Firehawk also come in 119" or only 123"? I will be needing a 119" screen for my IF-7205.

There was a real good deal in the for sale section here yesterday on a firehawk 100"

Does the Firehawk also come in 119" or only 123"? I will be needing a 119" screen for my IF-7205.

Any size you want, up to a certain limit before it starts having seams.

Thanks for the info, nathan. Yeah i think the Firehawk would be the best option for my 7205 although i have now around 1300 hours on the lamp but it's still plenty bright even in the low lamp mode and my white living room. I think the screen that comes closest to the FH is the Da-Lite HCCV, IMO, but it cannot produce the level of detail in dark scenes like the FH nor the low blacks like it. For the price you still cant beat the HCCV, though.

Room: 17’ w x 20’ deep
Ceiling: 9’
Projector: Optoma H81
Screen: Stewart Horizontal Electriscreen Electrimask (110” Diag) - G2
Viewing Distance: 15’ back
Viewing Height (AFF): 45”
Projector Throw: 14’-6”
Project Offset Calc: Alpha = 27% translates into 14”

- What is an "acceptable" viewing pitch other than horizontal -- 3-5 degrees?
- Any real pitfalls of ordering excessive blackdrop >14"
- Like clean borders but is horizontal masking a ferrari?

I am building and want to install my media room myself. All I am sure of is that I want a 123" firehawk motorised perforated screen. 16:9. My room is 15ft x 18ft and have a large french door directly oppose the screen with a tall window to the left. Firehawk because I have read a lot about it on your forum.

Viewing position I anticipate will be about 12ft from screen. I am leaning towards a 3chip projector - Runco, Infocus or Sim2. I am torn between the cost of the 3chip and the picture quality. For a room of this size do I really need a 3chip DLP to get fantastic picture? Which ones would you recommend?
bolly

bolly: Others more knowledgeable than I can give you more detainled advice, but there are at least 2 things that I can mention. First, you will need a very BRIGHT pj, e.g., like the Mits wd-2000, or one of the 3-chip dlps', like the SIM C3X, or Inf 777. And second, you should be sure that the distance from the lens of the pj to the screen is at least 1.6 X SW (SW = screen width), to prevent hot-spotting with the Firehawk. You should have a great pic!

Thanks for the info millerwill. Is there a projector that is cheaper and would do a good job at giving very good picture?


I was hoping more people will contribute to my question. :(

Thanks for the info millerwill. Is there a projector that is cheaper and would do a good job at giving very good picture?


I was hoping more people will contribute to my question. :(

I think the best bet, for the money, may be the Mits wd-2000; read about it over in the projector forum.

I was hoping more people will contribute to my question. :(

You'll likely find out much more by asking about this in the projectors section of the forum.

I need Help. I am attaching a Firehawk screen that I recently purchased to an existing frame I already have. Which side of the screen should I project on, the smooth side or the rougher side? Both sides are very similar in color if not identical.

Thanks

I'm planning to upgrade to the Ruby (VPL-VW100) and wanted to upgrade to a Luxus Deluxe at the same time. My setup is perhaps a little strange in that I need to mount the projector on a pedestal that is located directly behind the main viewing location approximately 1 foot above the viewers head and directly in line with the center of screen. With this setup, the viewing angle and projection angle almost coincide (I only sit 10.5 ft away from a 100" screen.)

My question is: what Stewart screen material should I get for my setup if I want to maximize black level and brightness, without hotspoting problems? I've demoed the projector on FireHawk and that seems like a natural choice, but from what I read about the FireHawk material my setup would not work due to the potential for hotspoting.

Could someone verify that FireHawk will not work and perhaps recommend something else from Stewart?

For Jeff65, rough side is the viewing side. This should be marked with a blue sticker by the way, perhaps it's deeper in the roll, if you have not unrolled the entire fabric. Rule of thumb also is that the image side is rolled toward the interior of the roll, so should face up, if the roll is prone on a horizontal surface and the material coming off the roll is against the surface.

Spkrgeek, What is your room like in terms of light control? If the walls/ceiling/follor are darkened and all ambient light sources are controlled, then Studiotek 130 would offer less hotspotting, and more punch. But the Firehawk is not really as bad with hotspotting as some would describe, and works really well when cross reflected or ambient light is less controlled.

regards,

Spkrgeek, What is your room like in terms of light control? If the walls/ceiling/follor are darkened and all ambient light sources are controlled, then Studiotek 130 would offer less hotspotting, and more punch. But the Firehawk is not really as bad with hotspotting as some would describe, and works really well when cross reflected or ambient light is less controlled.

Hi Mark, Thanks for the info. My room is fairly dark in color (ceiling excepted) and well light controlled. Based on this, it seems like the Studiotek 130 is my best bet.

Another question: I currently own a pair of Stewart T Stand legs that I've been using with a screen from another manufacturer. When I order my new Luxus Deluxe do I need to have my dealer order the screen for T Stand mounting? I noticed that the Luxus installation manual had two different mounting options for T-Stands: a "standard" mounting and a "wrap-around" mounting. Do I have an option of how the T-Stands would be attached to the Luxus Deluxe or are they only mounted in the "standard" way. I'd prefer the "wrap-around" mounting where the legs go behind the screen, but wasn't sure if this was available with all screen types. Thanks again.

I know Stewart's recommendation is that the PJ be ceiling mounted for the Firehawk. But with my cathedral ceilings this will never happen. Has anyone used the Firehawk with a table mount and if so what did you think?


Thanks,
Mike

Can I call you Geek for short? :) Depending on the age of the stands, they may have been made for a 1.5" square tube frame which mounted different (outboard of the frame), than the present Deluxe frame,(behind the frame), but no big deal.

Where the upright meets the base, you can rotate the upright 90 degrees, re-drill with a 5/16" bit, and re-install the uprights so that the fastener through-holes are on the correct axis to address the rear of the frame. Should work, will work.

Many of the Stewart range of products are angular reflective to a degree. This means that the light reflecting off the surface of the screen will be centered in distribution, on an angle complementary to the incident angle. But the fabrics do have pretty wide angle performance per increment of gain. So the short answer is that if the projector is really low, some light will end up headed toward a position higher than a seated viewer might occupy, but not to excess. What we recommend is that the projector be pulled back behind the viewer if possible, and if it is close to equal to head height it will work well.

A retro-reflective screen would direct the light more back toward the elevation of the source, so may be a way to go for you. Da-lite and Kikuchi make pretty good examples of this type of fabric.

We do have many very happy customers with low mounted projectors, and in the CRT days, it was pretty much 50/50 due to the bulk of many projectors.

Mark,
do you have any update on your Ruby? I have purchased a ruby for my 14x21x9 light controlled room. There was a screw up with my screen order and after reading this thread I am thankful I do not have the screen yet. I am now leaning toward a 123" Studiotech for the room or would the Ultramatte 200 be a better fit. I will be mounting the Ruby from the ceiling and will have a riser for the second row. First row will be 12-13' from the screen. I have seen a Ruby with the Firehawk G2 in a light controlled room and it seemed dim but it could have been the set up. Thanks for all the great information!

Gerry

She has returned to Sony. Wolf, the 123" diagonal is certainly at the big end for the calibrated light output of the Ruby. The Ruby does put out more light at shorter throws, as comprehensively measured by Tryg and Darin,(confirmed subjectively by me) so a higher gain screen could give you visible center-to-edge brightness issues, or hot-spotting at the short end of the zoom.

Ultramatte 150 would be a good choice, if you are bound and determined to have a screen that large. The hot-spotting is less than Firehawk even though the gain is higher, and the image will have more punch. The caveat is that you really need to keep the lights off, and comprehensive light damping within the room is highly beneficial as you'll get minimal perceived contrast help from the screen. This combination should yeild a minimum of 16 foot lamberts-plus in your room.

Regards,

What screens sizes are available for the CineCurve 2.35? I cannot find this info anywhere on the Stewart website.

All curved units are made to order, so any size is possible. We like to know the projector, throw distance, type of anamorphic lens, desired image size, then we'll make what you need. The entire range of front projection fabrics can be fitted. There are a lot of options. To date in home cinema, we've made units as wide as 20 feet and as small as 7 feet wide. Lots of folks are ordering between 9-15 foot wide units.

Mark,

How would a Firehawk screen perform with a short-throw projector like the Optoma HD 7100. I am considering this projector for my media room that has pretty good light control. The walls and carpet are a light brown in color. The furthest I can place the projector for a 92 inch screen is 10.8 ft. and the viewing distance would be 12 feet. I am worried about hot-spotting at this relatively short throw distance.

Thanks in advance.

Mark,

How would a Firehawk screen perform with a short-throw projector like the Optoma HD 7100. I am considering this projector for my media room that has pretty good light control. The walls and carpet are a light brown in color. The furthest I can place the projector for a 92 inch screen is 10.8 ft. and the viewing distance would be 12 feet. I am worried about hot-spotting at this relatively short throw distance.

Thanks in advance.

I'm not Mark, and he will be the authority, but I do think the short throw lens of the 7100 makes the FH not a good choice for a screen in this case.

I'm not Mark, and he will be the authority, but I do think the short throw lens of the 7100 makes the FH not a good choice for a screen in this case.

Thanks for the response. Any suggestion on a good screen for this projector?

Thanks for the response. Any suggestion on a good screen for this projector?

The short throw should make it very easy to mount the pj on a table or shelf just about or above eye level, and not far behind your heads. This would be ideal for a retro-reflective screen like the Dalite High Power or Optoma GrayWolf. But I'm sure there are others, and it will also depend on the ambient light situation for your room.

Mark (and anyone else who wants to chime in),

I have a BenQ PE7700 (that finally works), and I'm going to take the plunge and invest in a Real Screen. I have narrowed my choices down to these two fine products. Although I have looked at and tested the samples sent to me by Stewart, I'm having some difficulty visualizing how the screens will look full size.

I really like the black levels the Firehawk gives me, but the recommendations in this thread make me think the Firehawk is only for people who have ambient light leakage.

Let me say a little about my room: it is about 16' x 18'. I'm looking to get a screen either 106" or 110" diagonally, 16:9. My projector will have to be 13' to 14' back from the screen to hit those sizes. The main seating area is about 15' back, behind the projector--although there are sometimes people slightly in front and to the side of the projector as well. I have almost complete light control, with the occasional small slivers of light leaking through window edges. I mostly watch at night, however, so light pollution isn't a problem.

What is the best placement of my projector for these screens, taking into consideration projector zoom? Should I be toward the low end of magnification? Are there any special considerations with some of the viewing area being behind the projector?

Is the Firehawk designed ONLY to be used in situations where there's ambient light?

The wall where my screen will be is white. Should I consider painting this wall another color, or covering it with black fabric, to remove the white reference?

At this point, I'm leaning toward the Firehawk. Can I go wrong? The spec sheets for the Firehawk and Greyhawk RS are very similar, the main differences being gain and viewing angle. In practice, the pictures they provide are not as similar as their specs would suggest. On the forum, there seem to be more recommendations for the Firehawk than the Greyhawk. What's the target customer for each?

Thanks in advance.

Is the Firehawk designed ONLY to be used in situations where there's ambient light?

No. It can work great in a light controlled room. Note that "light controlled" doesn't just mean light not leaking in. It also means light spilling from the projected image and bouncing off white walls (etc) and back onto the screen, washing out the image.

The wall where my screen will be is white. Should I consider painting this wall another color, or covering it with black fabric, to remove the white reference?

A darker color would be good, though it's not so much about removing the "white reference" as about reducing the amount of stray light in the room to have a truly "light controlled" room.

--

I've had both a real Firehawk (older formulation), and a screen similar to the Grayhawk, and I preferred the Firehawk. But if you cannot ceiling mount the projector, or have critical viewers sitting off to the sides, or have a throw of less than 2 screen widths, the Firehawk is not ideal. Otherwise, especially with the new formulation, I cannot think of why you would not want the Firehawk. (Note that I used a Firehawk with less than the recommended throw and still liked it better than anything else I had seen.)

--

In fact, as soon as I find a used retractible Firehawk 16x9 at 92inch diag, I'm going to pick one up! I had to give up my fixed-wall Firehawk when I moved into a home without space for an "on the wall" screen -- and couldn't get the scratch together to buy a new retractible Firehawk.

I have a light controlled Home Theater and I am about to purchase a screen. I would just like a little feedback on my choice.

The Room: (Size and light control elements)
It is 14x22. The room has an 8' ceiling. There are only 2 small basement windows which are blacked out and covered. The walls are Hunter Green. The Ceiling and the wall on which the image will be projected are flat black.

Projector:
Infocus IN76 Ceiling mounted. It is 15' From the wall.

Seating:
First Row - 10 Feet back Ground Level
Second Row - 16 Feet back 12" elevated
Third Row - 22 Feet back 24" elevated

Use:
Movies - 25% Lighting - Complete Dark
HDTV - 50% Lighting - Minimal Light - 15-20% illumination
HD Sports - 10% Lighting - Minimal Light - 25-40% illumination
Video Games - 15% Lighting - Minimal Light - 25-40% illumination

Screen Choice:
110" Firehawk. Luxus Deluxe Screenwall

I think I have made the right choice for the room/projector/use. I just wanted a sounding board before I actually set the purchase in motion. Any feedback?

Late reply, sorry, Jury Duty!
Looks like a solid combination to me!

It is interesting how you have characterized the lighting in your space while viewing different content. My only caution would be, if there is secondary lighting, try to keep it away from the back wall, opposite the screen, and avoid downlights, in the screen end of the room.

Thanks for considering Stewart Filmscreen!

Mark,

Any additional advice regarding my previous post on top of Nathan's?

Mark,
I just reread my message as it was posted and realized it was a little confusing. There was more formatting before I actually posted it. The first percentage is the amount of time I will be using the room for that activity. The second percentage was how much lighting there will be while doing that activity.

Here is my rationale for the lighting percentages:
Basically Dark for movies - Don't you dare move or talk!
A little light for TV so we can get up and use the facilities/get refreshments without changing the light or tripping in the dark - Still no talking.
I added a little more lighting for Video Games and Sporting events, because they are more social and I expect talking and moving around - Besides there has to be adequate light so my "guests" can fully appreciate my taunting!

Now if I can only get my wife to abide by those talking rules!

Mark,

Any additional advice regarding my previous post on top of Nathan's?

I think Nathan spoke pretty eloquently to the questions, and I like it when Customers offer their expertise, since their challenges and circumstances are more in line with questioners, since their environments are more similar. In other words, thanks Nathan +1 etc.

Hello, I am building my first home theatre with a front projector. I will be using a Sony Ruby. The room is 14-1/2 wide by 18-1/2 feet wide with 7-1/2 ft high ceiling. My main seating area will be 12 to 13 feet back from the screen, depending upon how far reclined the seats are. I will be using a 100" screen and will have a second row on a riser behind the first row. Due to a post behind the first row, my projector can be mounted no further back than about 11 feet and can be mounted as far forward as is permitted. I will be ceiling mounting the projector. The room is a dedicated theater and will be totally light controlled with all dark surfaces. I have a few screen questions. First of all, should I go with 1.78 or 1.85? I will watch primarily DVD's with some HD from Dish. I am also wondering on how close to mount the proejctor and which screen material to choose. After having read lots of threads on AVS I am considering Studiotek 130 or Firehawk. I am also wondering about the High Power as I have read about it here, although I tend to think Stewart is a good choice for me. Any suggestions or insights would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Rich

Your setup as described, will have your projector at 1.5:1 throw distance which is good for most screen materials. Use all of the throw distance you have. I would stick with a 1.78:1 screen size and live with small unprojected areas, (less than one inch each), above and below when viewing content in 1.85.

Studiotek would be great in there, since you've planned to control light. Firehawk would also be an option and would get your in-room black level deeper without question, though there is a trade-off in absolute color fidelity. The Ruby would easily light either surface, even at the middle of the lens, and you woudn't need the high-power, which is an excellent screen, but narrower in viewing cone, and more suited to low mounted projectors.

Thank you for considering Stewart Filmscreen and have fun in your theater!

Hi All,
I am new to the world of front projection, been lurking here for a while. I am convinced that Stewart is clearly the manufacturer of choice for my screen. (AVS will be vendor). Mount will be a wall mounted electric screen. But BIG question. I would really appreciate any advice.

What screen material? What size?

My setup:
Room : 24ft x 36ft, 12ft ceiling ht in center, pitched down to 8ft; light yellow walls. Very low level recessed bar lighting possibly in rear, light control on windows.
Projector: Epson TW600, same as Cinema 800 in North America
Mount: Ceiling mount at any height or distance from screen is no problem
Viewing:Usual combination of movies, TV Sports, and my sons's Xbox 360

I test set up the projector (shot on a painted wall) on a 5ft high floor stand; 22ft from wall, . Image 134"x 75" at a 30"bottom height. Cable HD.

Image is amazing, bright, sharp: exceeds my expectations! Can't wait to see it with a real screen.

Again, appreciate any help.

Thanks,
Martin

I have been examining the Stewart lines of screens with microperf. I have some questions to which I cannot find the answer. My first question is what happens to the gain with microperf? The light loss is 10.2 percent according to Stewart, but what does that translate to in gain? For instance, the Greyhawk has a gain of 0.92. What would the gain of a microperf Greyhawk be? Also, I am thinking of placing an electronic screen in front of sliding glass doors. I will use blackout curtains around the sliding glass doors, but what is the effect of having light behind a microperf screen? Would this destroy the imaging quality?

I have been examining the Stewart lines of screens with microperf. I have some questions to which I cannot find the answer. My first question is what happens to the gain with microperf? The light loss is 10.2 percent according to Stewart, but what does that translate to in gain? For instance, the Greyhawk has a gain of 0.92. What would the gain of a microperf Greyhawk be? Also, I am thinking of placing an electronic screen in front of sliding glass doors. I will use blackout curtains around the sliding glass doors, but what is the effect of having light behind a microperf screen? Would this destroy the imaging quality?

I believe 10% is .1 gain on a 1.0 gain screen. On the grayhawk is would be .09 gain lost giving an effetive gain for the screen of about .83 or so.

Light behind ANY screen is a bad idea, in my opinion.

Thanks. Yes, we will have blackout curtains (and likely will watch at night), so there should be very little or no light behind the screen. What I am worried about is light that gets around the screen and reflects off the non-blackout portion of the blackout curtains (which will be a light color to placate the spouse; the walls of the room will be dark, though). Unfortunately, that's the room I have and must use. When I was looking at houses to buy, I tried to buy one with an unfinished basement. Sadly, those houses were way out of my price range.

So that probably means that unless I choose my projector and screen size carefully, I might not be able to use the Greyhawk.

Hi all,
Anyone have the email for the Miami dealers of Stewart screens?
Thanks!
Ruben

Thanks. Yes, we will have blackout curtains (and likely will watch at night), so there should be very little or no light behind the screen. What I am worried about is light that gets around the screen and reflects off the non-blackout portion of the blackout curtains (which will be a light color to placate the spouse; the walls of the room will be dark, though). Unfortunately, that's the room I have and must use. When I was looking at houses to buy, I tried to buy one with an unfinished basement. Sadly, those houses were way out of my price range.

So that probably means that unless I choose my projector and screen size carefully, I might not be able to use the Greyhawk.

Firehawk has better ambient light rejection, so if there is some possible light spill from around the curtains, I'd say go for that.

(I'm not familiar via experience with microperf screen tradeoffs, so I'll refrain from trying to answer that part of your question in more depth. I might consider a microperf in my future, if I was convined it was sonically invisible, since I'd prefer to use a single Magnepan MMG for a center speaker instead of their good but less well-blending MMG-C speaker. But that's a different topic.)

Hi all,
Anyone have the email for the Miami dealers of Stewart screens?
Thanks!
Ruben

AV Science (this forum) is a retailer for Stewart Screens. Support your "local" AVS. :D

I just put up my new 82" Luxus Deluxe FireHawk. It went up nice and easy and it gives a fantastic picture, however it has some wrinkles on the bottom right edge (above the Stewart logo). It's not a huge deal, however they are visible at times when displaying lighter images. Is this sort of thing common with Stewart fixed frames?

thanks

Hello Everyone,

I would really appreciate some help. I recently picked up a Sharp XVZ12000 and am very confused about the best screen for this projector. In speaking with local retailers, I am getting conflicting information about screen options.

So you are aware, I will be using it in a dedicated space in my basement, which will give me the ability to control the lighting. I will be seated about 14 feet and am also curious about the most appropriate screen size for this viewing distance.

Thanks in advance for any and all advice!

...it has some wrinkles on the bottom right edge (above the Stewart logo). It's not a huge deal, however they are visible at times when displaying lighter images. Is this sort of thing common with Stewart fixed frames?

If the tension doesn't flatten out the wrinkles, you may want to consider returning it to your dealer. Sounds like there may have been a problem with how it was packed or installed.

Can anyone comment on the spectral response of the StudioTek 130 when used with a UHP bulb projector? I have a Pearl on order. It looks like the StudioTek is somewhat minus green where I'd expect the UHP bulb to have a green peak; I think the way I read that is that the StudioTek's gain for green is somewhat less. The net should be less tweaking in order to acheive a correct grayscale.

Given a very dark / pitch black room, will a 90" wide 16x9 be too large for this projector (assuming short throw, d65 calibrated)? My back of the envelope calculates give me a range of about 12 to 24 ft./lamberts depending on bulb life.

12-24 ftL sounds ideal for a very dark room.

Here's my math if someone wantso to check it or my assumptions:

* 600 lumens for post d65 calibration for the Pearl (I'm going to be at about the shortest throw possible)
* 90 inches x 51" = ~32 sq/ft.
* 600 lumens / 32 sq/ft = 18.75 ft lamberts
* 18.75 x 1.3 g for the screen = 24 ft. lamberts (decreasing to about .5 over bulb life)

Is my math good?

You get a passing grade in arithmetic.