anybody have any feedback on this fear of mine :-)
cfsb

ok guys need help... tomorrow or the next day, i will be ordering one of these screens: see links below
is there any benefit to the fiberglass screen made by elite? is it worth an extra 60 bucks to go with fiberglass?
I am running a 1080p optoma hd20 projector.
thx guys
http://www.provantage.com/elite-screens-m120uwh2~7ELSC06P.htm
or
http://www.provantage.com/elite-screens-m120hsr-pro~7ELSC10A.htm

ok guys need help... tomorrow or the next day, i will be ordering one of these screens: see links below
is there any benefit to the fiberglass screen made by elite? is it worth an extra 60 bucks to go with fiberglass?
I am running a 1080p optoma hd20 projector.
thx guys
elite-screens-m120uwh2~7ELSC06P
or
elite-screens-m120hsr-pro~7ELSC10A


The only thing that you need to be aware of with that particular vendor is their return policy.

Last week I ordered a cinetension 120 - stupid me did not take into account the fact that the case length was 1/2 " longer than the alcove I need to put it in - it won't fit.

I'm going around in circles trying to get them to accept a return so I can get the 110 which will fit.

Their policy on these screens is that it is apparently the manufacturers problem - but the manufacturer is telling me that it is the vendors problem.

I might just have to wind up cutting some drywall :(

ok guys need help... tomorrow or the next day, i will be ordering one of these screens: see links below
is there any benefit to the fiberglass screen made by elite? is it worth an extra 60 bucks to go with fiberglass?
I am running a 1080p optoma hd20 projector.
thx guys
http://www.provantage.com/elite-screens-m120uwh2~7ELSC06P.htm
or
http://www.provantage.com/elite-screens-m120hsr-pro~7ELSC10A.htm

Either of these should be fine for you. Both 1.1 gain. The main difference other than the housing design and the fiberglass screen backing is that the slightly more expensive one also features "SRM".

"SRM is a special Screen Retract Mechanism which allows the manual screen to be retracted slowly back into the screen's housing without the need to hold on to the handle."

http://www.elitescreens.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=236&catid=2&Itemid=15&lang=en

Hello guys,

I am deciding between cheap ebay matte white (gain - 1.0) screen and elite screens VMAX2 Series (white max gain - 1.1) screen. The feedback of cheap ebay screen is positive, so I don't know is it worth to spend extra money on the elite screen?

oops wrong thread

Hello all, I'm considering buying a Kestrel floor-rising screen from Elite. Does anyone have any experience with these? Since the screen has fiberglass backed material, I was thinking of going with the non-tensioned version.

I'd use this mostly at night with my Sanyo Z2000 -- thinking of the 100" screen projecting from about 20' away.

Hello all, I'm considering buying a Kestrel floor-rising screen from Elite. Does anyone have any experience with these? Since the screen has fiberglass backed material, I was thinking of going with the non-tensioned version.

I'd use this mostly at night with my Sanyo Z2000 -- thinking of the 100" screen projecting from about 20' away.

I'd call one of our guys here at AVS...
http://www.avscience.com/index.php?Itemid=111&option=com_zoo&view=item&category_id=3&item_id=103

Thanks for the link. Not exactly encouraging.

All right, I've moved onto the Cinetension2. Wondering about CineWhite versus PowerGain.

This is for a new house -- an Eichler with lots of floor to ceiling windows -- so I'll be using it mostly at night, but would at times like to use it during the day. The main viewing area will be about 15' away on a couch.

The projector will be mounted about 18'-19' away to accommodate the 92" screen (further back and the screen would have to be bigger).

My projector is a Sanyo Z2000. This is what the website says about PowerGain:

*Manufactuerer's tip: Use a high resolution-low output DLP projector for the best results with this material.

Would the Z2000 qualify for this?

I called AVScience about the Kestrel, spoke with Chase, and he basically told me to check out Amazon. The call lasted 20 seconds.

Ok guys i went with the Elite Maxwhite 120" Found it for under $100 bucks and I am very please with the results compared to my 106" graywolf.... Its A BEAUTY...... now its time to build at heater room worthy of such a screen....
CFSB

ok guys need help... tomorrow or the next day, i will be ordering one of these screens: see links below
is there any benefit to the fiberglass screen made by elite? is it worth an extra 60 bucks to go with fiberglass?
I am running a 1080p optoma hd20 projector.
thx guys
http://www.provantage.com/elite-screens-m120uwh2~7ELSC06P.htm
or
http://www.provantage.com/elite-screens-m120hsr-pro~7ELSC10A.htm

Either of these should be fine for you. Both 1.1 gain. The main difference other than the housing design and the fiberglass screen backing is that the slightly more expensive one also features "SRM".

"SRM is a special Screen Retract Mechanism which allows the manual screen to be retracted slowly back into the screen's housing without the need to hold on to the handle."

http://www.elitescreens.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=236&catid=2&Itemid=15&lang=en


I ordered the M120UWH2 and it was really nice, but sent it back because of a minor defect. It was no longer in stock so I got a refund instead of replacement. Since then I have been thinking of a couple of potential issues with manual pull-downs:

1) someone lets go and it retracts uncontrolled, causing damage
2) my screen was flat, but have read that waves may form over time

Are these legitimate concerns? Input?

For about $35 more than the M120UWH2, I can get the M120HSR-Pro (shopblt.com). The SRM would take care of the risk of someone letting go of the screen. I am wondering if the Fiberglass backing on the screen would help to keep the screen flat over time. Any input on this?

from Elite Screens FAQ:
MaxWhite FG: Matte white textured material with Fiber Glass backing for enhanced rigidity

Anyone used the M120HSR-Pro? What do you think of it?

BTW, best price for M120HSR-Pro:

Bottom Line Telecommunications looks very reputable.
(http://www.shopblt.com/cgi-bin/shop/shop.cgi?action=enter&thispage=0110040020013_BCN4876P.shtml&order_id=!ORDERID!)
(http://www.resellerratings.com/store/Bottom_Line_Telecommunications_15).

I requested samples from Elite several weeks ago and never got them.....On the contrary both Carada and Da-lite were very expeditious to my sample requests....

Me too. I've requested two times, 3 months apart with no response.

I wonder if they can't deliver samples...what kind of product and customer service to expect after purchase.....

After hearing some of the bad experiences with elite I went with a VMAX2 anyway. Well it arrived last yesterday and spent 2 hours setting it up only to find out it's DOA. None of the remotes do anything.

I bought it from Amazon and I'm wondering if it's just easier dealing with them after reading some of these problems with Elite.

EDIT: Amazon is sending me a replacement overnight. Gotta love 'em :)

any thoughts on the M120HSR-Pro ? (5 posts up)

The only thing that you need to be aware of with that particular vendor is their return policy.

Last week I ordered a cinetension 120 - stupid me did not take into account the fact that the case length was 1/2 " longer than the alcove I need to put it in - it won't fit.

I'm going around in circles trying to get them to accept a return so I can get the 110 which will fit.

Their policy on these screens is that it is apparently the manufacturers problem - but the manufacturer is telling me that it is the vendors problem.

I might just have to wind up cutting some drywall :(

UPDATE

After a couple of weeks, this vendor got back to me and gave me an RMA - the problem that I then encountered was that the length of the screen was over the 108" max for UPS or Fedex shipment. It was going to cost me an arm and a leg (anywhere from $350-$400) to ship this thing back.

Well I notified the vendor and they issued me a UPS call number, even though it was still 12 inches over the max - the kind UPS Store took it.

Moral of story - get all of the specs on the screen and don't forget that the viewing size is less than the overall size.:D

Anyone have experience with the acoustic transparent screen from Elite? I have a cinetension2 now and due to various reasons will be looking for a different screen. Can someone offer their review or opinion on the Elite AT screens? It would be electric screen mounted from ceiling, about 13-15' from seating area, dark room and an Epson UB6500 PJ.

Thanks

Is it posible to buy just the screen material from elite...for example the Power Gain 1.8

Is it posible to buy just the screen material from elite...for example the Power Gain 1.8

I have looking at a silverframe with power gain material, but its being discontinued and still available in only 100 in diag. I want it larger, So I have been thinking of a SableFrame in 110 or 120 in, but does not come with the high gain material. An option would be to buy the sableframe and the HG material separately. Is it posible to get the HG separately..any idea of how much it would cost for a 110 or 120 in size. Will it fit the sableFrame...frame.

I have a Mitsu HC6800 with some room ambient light, although watch movies mostly at night. Still got some minor ambient light from surroundings..

Thks.

I have looking at a silverframe with power gain material, but its being discontinued and still available in only 100 in diag. I want it larger, So I have been thinking of a SableFrame in 110 or 120 in, but does not come with the high gain material. An option would be to buy the sableframe and the HG material separately. Is it posible to get the HG separately..any idea of how much it would cost for a 110 or 120 in size. Will it fit the sableFrame...frame.

I have a Mitsu HC6800 with some room ambient light, although watch movies mostly at night. Still got some minor ambient light from surroundings..

Thks.

Pulled the trigger on the 100 in diag SilverFrame with HG 1.8. Got it open box for the low's $200's shipped. Too good price to pass up. Will see how it goes once I get my hands on it. Ideally, the 110"diag SableFrame was the optimum size, but I am not sure if I would get a bright picture, , which I like, considering the bulb aging, and was not availabe in the HG material. According to Elite's catalog, the HG material is available in the Power Vision line, but not in 110 in...

hey guys I set up my Cinetension 92" screen the about two weeks ago. I don't know it happened but a couple of days ago I noticed waves in the bottom left corner of the screen that go into the projection area. Is there a way to get rid of the waves or is my screen defective and does it have to be shipped back? I really hope it can be fixed cause I dont want to go through the hassle of removing it and shipping it. Thanks

I have been wanting a tensioned focupix due to higher gain but the larger sizes will be out of stock for a bit. So I settled on an Elite 135" 1.1 Manual as a temp screen until they have it in stock, it arrives this Saturday. For the price, you just cant beat it and I dont care if it does get waves, its just a temp, with a two year warranty :).

Got it for $259 with free two day shipping on Amazon, god I love my prime membership:) I'll post on it once I get it up.

I have been wanting a tensioned focupix due to higher gain but the larger sizes will be out of stock for a bit. So I settled on an Elite 135" 1.1 Manual as a temp screen until they have it in stock, it arrives this Saturday. For the price, you just cant beat it and I dont care if it does get waves, its just a temp, with a two year warranty :).

Got it for $259 with free two day shipping on Amazon, god I love my prime membership:) I'll post on it once I get it up.WHy didnt you just get a 135" cinetension2 screen with the powergain material instead?

$$$$$$$$$$$

$$$$$$$$$$$http://www.savinglots.com/lotprod.asp?item=TE120HC1

You can find em all over the place for cheap.........everyone and their brother sells Elite Screen products, LOL! A Focupix 135" tensioned screen goes for $1000 normally. I can easily find a 135" Elite Cinetension2 model for under $1000 shipped. And the Cinetension2 has a better drive motor and tab system without question.

and $629 is so much cheaper than $259

and that is 121" compared to 135"... they don't make a 135" CineTension2 PowerGain screen. They do have a 135" CineTension2 Wrath Veil high gain screen, but it is $1200 minimum. Even the 135" CineWhite version is $800 plus.

and $629 is so much cheaper than $259

and that is 121" compared to 135"... they don't make a 135" CineTension2 PowerGain screen. They do have a 135" CineTension2 Wrath Veil high gain screen, but it is $1200 minimum. Even the 135" CineWhite version is $800 plus.

The point is, if he was looking for a tab tensioned screen, he could have picked up a better quality Elite screen with powergain material for the same or less money as the tab tensioned Focupix model he was looking at originally which cost about $1000. He would have saved himself the difference in price PLUS the additional $259 he spent on a temporary screen.

I picked up the 120" 16:9 Manual SRM Pro for $173 shipped. It is similar to the Manual series, but adds the slow retract mechanism to protect against the "whiplash" effect (in case someone let's go while retracting). It also adds the fiberglass to the material for added rigidity to help control waves.

BTW: I haven't installed it yet. I want to expand my living room space into my carport area before installing all of my theater gear. Any ideas how to find a great contractor?

My last post was unrelated. Just thought while I'm here I would post what screen I am installing for myself.

Concerning taskman's screen, I understand now. I thought you were comparing the CineTension2 to the Manual series.

The point is, if he was looking for a tab tensioned screen, he could have picked up a better quality Elite screen with powergain material for the same or less money as the tab tensioned Focupix model he was looking at originally which cost about $1000. He would have saved himself the difference in price PLUS the additional $259 he spent on a temporary screen.

Didn't realize my happy post would cause a big discussion. So let me explain a couple items. The better motor/tab thing is interesting but wouldnt seal the deal for me, though I have done extensive research on focupix and Elite, I haven't heard that before.

Overall Reason - The problem is gain, warranty, and price. With Focupix I get a three year warranty, 1.4g(prob 1.2-1.3 in reality), and I will prob get it for about $400 less then I could with a cinetension 2 depending on the discount htdepot.com is giving at the time. $259, in the long run really isnt a big deal, it solves my problem short term(6-12 months) and I can always ebay it down the road to make some money back.

Gain Situation - So I'm guessing that because I mentioned I wanted a higher gain, it sounded like HP. Actually I just want a higher gain white matte screen which the focupix solves for me. HG in sizes above 120" just wont work for my setup, I just want decent gain and tab tensioned for the end game solution.

I picked up the 120" 16:9 Manual SRM Pro for $173 shipped. It is similar to the Manual series, but adds the slow retract mechanism to protect against the "whiplash" effect (in case someone let's go while retracting). It also adds the fiberglass to the material for added rigidity to help control waves.

BTW: I haven't installed it yet. I want to expand my living room space into my carport area before installing all of my theater gear. Any ideas how to find a great contractor?

Try kudzu.com. Great place to find reviews on just that kind of need.

Didn't realize my happy post would cause a big discussion. So let me explain a couple items. The better motor/tab thing is interesting but wouldnt seal the deal for me, though I have done extensive research on focupix and Elite, I haven't heard that before.

Overall Reason - The problem is gain, warranty, and price. With Focupix I get a three year warranty, 1.4g(prob 1.2-1.3 in reality), and I will prob get it for about $400 less then I could with a cinetension 2 depending on the discount htdepot.com is giving at the time. $259, in the long run really isnt a big deal, it solves my problem short term(6-12 months) and I can always ebay it down the road to make some money back.

Gain Situation - So I'm guessing that because I mentioned I wanted a higher gain, it sounded like HP. Actually I just want a higher gain white matte screen which the focupix solves for me. HG in sizes above 120" just wont work for my setup, I just want decent gain and tab tensioned for the end game solution.

Just out of curiosity, what pj are you using? throw distance? Seating distance? Ambient light etc? TV/sports or movies?

thanks taskman, doesn't look like there are enough entries for my area at that site

Just out of curiosity, what pj are you using? throw distance? Seating distance? Ambient light etc? TV/sports or movies?

Sure, I'm doing movies and gaming, lots of gaming:) so it needed to run during the day. I have a brand new Epson 8500UB mounted in my great room. Throw will be about 13'8" which is just a few inches above the mininum needed to put up a 135" screen. I'm trying to get MAX lumens here because lets be honest, even a light cannon like the Epson 8500UB will struggle to put up a bright image on a 135" or 150" using theater or THX mode.

I have some ambient light, if you go to the focupix screen thread, you can can see some pics of the Epson I put up with ambient light. To save you time though, the Epson litterally lauphs at ambient light. On a bed sheet it does dark blacks even during the day, only when most of the screen is black do you see the screen material during the day.

Seating is currently 12', which I know is even closer then THX standards but I want the experience, I have another 10' I can push the seating back if needed.

The crappy part though? Seems Amazon screwed up, screens like this are NOT prime eligible. So I wont be getting it until July 1st:(

In case anyone is looking for this Elite finally have a pinout diagram on their website for the external control of the screen via the RJ45 port. There was earlier discussions on this but i dont think anyone has posted this link.

http://www.elitescreens.com/images/pdf/circuit_board_pin_assignment.pdf
(http://www.elitescreens.com/images/pdf/circuit_board_pin_assignment.pdf)

I'm currently using a Carada Precision 96" screen, and plan on going CIH. The Elite 2.35:1 screen is about 1/2 the price of the Carada I was looking at! Is there any reason why I would want to pay more? How is the build quality and performance of the Cinewhite Elite 2.35:1 screens? If there is no gain in performance or quality it would be silly to pay more, anyone compared the two?

In case anyone is looking for this Elite finally have a pinout diagram on their website for the external control of the screen via the RJ45 port. There was earlier discussions on this but i dont think anyone has posted this link.

http://www.elitescreens.com/images/pdf/circuit_board_pin_assignment.pdf
(http://www.elitescreens.com/images/pdf/circuit_board_pin_assignment.pdf)

Thanks! This is very timely, I'm getting my Cinetension2 screen delivered this afternoon! And I was wondering about this pinout.

I'm currently using a Carada Precision 96" screen, and plan on going CIH. The Elite 2.35:1 screen is about 1/2 the price of the Carada I was looking at! Is there any reason why I would want to pay more? How is the build quality and performance of the Cinewhite Elite 2.35:1 screens? If there is no gain in performance or quality it would be silly to pay more, anyone compared the two?

I don't have experience with either, but here are a couple of reviews in case you care to read them:

http://www.projectorreviews.com/carada/Screen_Criterion_16x9/index.php

http://www.projectorreviews.com/Elite/ezframe/index.php

Hope it helps!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks, I had read those reviews a ways back. My main questions are is the Elite Cinewhite material as good as the Carada BW, and is the Elite spline method of securing the screen as secure as the snaps that Carada uses. The frames themselves look pretty similar, so it comes down to the material and the ease of assembly, etc. Anyone who has assembled an Elite screen have any thoughts?

Thanks, I had read those reviews a ways back. My main questions are is the Elite Cinewhite material as good as the Carada BW, and is the Elite spline method of securing the screen as secure as the snaps that Carada uses. The frames themselves look pretty similar, so it comes down to the material and the ease of assembly, etc. Anyone who has assembled an Elite screen have any thoughts?

Ok that you read them...I was just trying to help......

I just ordered an Elite SilverFrame that should arrive next week, hopefully....but in the meantime this may help:

It a very detailed review and installation process:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/manufactured-screens/9280-elite-screens-silver-frame-screen-review.html

Need advice....

I just installed my Panasonic AE4000 last night.

Screen: Elite Cinetension2 106" 16:9
Projector: Panasonic PT-AE4000
Throw: 14'
Ambient light: mostly controlled, but not a cave
Seating distance: 14'

I received my screen yesterday but haven't mounted it yet. After mounting my projector, I realized that I could have gone with up to 120" 16:9 screen and I don't see much difference in light output with 106" vs 120", although I'm just testing on the wall right now.

I'm thinking of returning the screen and getting the larger size 120".

1) Is 120" 16:9 a good size for a 14' viewing distance?
2) Anyone projecting this size from ~14' with the AE4000 and do you find the picture bright enough?


I'm also reconsidering going 2.35 instead of 16:9. Any opinion you can provide on my setup is appreciated.

Thanks!

UPDATE 7/10/2010: I decided to keep the 106" because of mounting restrictions, the 120" would not fit very well where I want to mount it after all.

Ok that you read them...I was just trying to help......

I just ordered an Elite SilverFrame that should arrive next week, hopefully....but in the meantime this may help:

It a very detailed review and installation process:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/manufactured-screens/9280-elite-screens-silver-frame-screen-review.html


Very helpful, thanks!

Very helpful, thanks!

Glad to help!!!!!

Hopefully, will get mine next week

Glad to help!!!!!

Hopefully, will get mine next week

Post your impressions, I'm particularly interested in ease of assembly and final image quality. Thanks!

I posted this review on Amazon, folks here might find it useful:


I ordered the Cinetension2 106" TE106HW2-E24 model with the extra 24" black drop, but Amazon sent me the regular TE106HW2 by mistake. Fortunately, I don't actually need the extra black drop for my installation, I just wanted it for flexibility in case I change the location or move to a new house. So I kept the TE106HW2.

Packaging:
The screen arrived doubled boxed, with very good foam padding, the packaging is very impressive and minimizes the possibility of shipping damage.

Features:
This screen comes fully loaded with all the options most people would ever need:
- The Screen in CineWhite 1.1 gain with tab tensioning
- IR Remote
- RF Remote
- Wall switch
- IR receiver/extender dongle
- 12-volt trigger with dongle
- mounting brackets, screws
- a really nice bubble level

It really amazes me that it comes with all these options as most other "high end" screen companies sell you each one of these at an extra charge even though their starting price is several thousand dollars. The Cinetension2 is an AMAZING value in my opinion.


Mounting:
The mounting was very easy. My wife and I did it ourselves. The mounting brackets are very easy to install and come with all the screws you need. Also, the screen comes with three velcro straps tied around the screen box, this is very handy, you leave these on during the installation to prevent the screen's weight bar from flapping around during installation. The screen is not very heavy, but you do need two people to lift it up to the mounting brackets. The sliding mounting bolts are very neat in that you don't have to line anything up ahead of time, just lift the screen, hook the back to the bracket, slide the bolts into position, and tighten with a wrench... all very easy, and can be done in ~20min.

Controls:
Whether you use the remote, the wall switch or the 12-volt trigger, the up and down motion is very smooth and relatively quiet and pretty fast compared to other brands (check out other brands on YouTube and you will see how slow they are!!). I'm using the remote at the moment, but intend to connect the 12-volt trigger to my projector. I found this handy wiring diagram for the RJ45 port:
http://www.elitescreens.com/images/pdf/circuit_board_pin_assignment.pdf

Vertical Drop Adjustment:
The first time you lower the screen, it will go all the way down to its lowest level by default (at least mine did). I needed to raise it by 3 inches so that it stopped just above our media cabinet. The instructions to do this are on the website here:
http://www.elitescreens.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=20&catid=1&Itemid=19&lang=en

The instructions are not very clear. You can only fine tune the adjustment on the way down, which means you must first bring the limit up and then adjust it down. Here's my version, if you want to raise the limit of where the screen stops on the way down...

1) First, don't mess with the grey screw, this adjusts the UP limit and you shouldn't have to touch this.
2) To adjust the DOWN limit, you want to adjust the yellow screw ONLY.
3) Put the screen down.
4) DO NOT turn the yellow screw counter-clockwise at this point as this will cause the screen to fully come down and possibly drop out of the box
5) With the screen down, measure approximately how many inches you want to raise the lower limit.
6) Raise the screen up (fully retracted)
7) Turn the yellow screw clockwise one full turn per inch that you measured, and add an extra turn or two.
8) Put the screen down, it should now have stopped at a higher point than before.
9) With the screen down, turn the yellow screw counter-clockwise. For each small turn, the screen will immediately drop a little bit. Keep turning the screw slowly until you are satisfied with the position. Done.

Screen:
I have read reports that some people have received screens that have waves or are not perfectly rectangular. Luckily, I did not have any issues with mine. My screen surface has no waves, is uniform and perfectly rectangular. The tab tensioning works very well so far. The whole thing appears to be a high quality piece of equipment.

Watching movies:
Now this is where the fun starts. This is my first ever projection screen. I paired it with a Panasonic PT-AE4000 which I also bought here at Amazon. I have a 14' throw distance and ceiling mounted and 13.5' viewing distance. The first movie we watched was Avatar! It was absolutely amazing! The color, contrast, everything... just amazing.

Conclusion:
I've only had the screen for a couple days, so it remains to be seen how it will withstand frequent use. But at this point, I see no reason to pay thousands of dollars more for the "high end" brands. I would highly recommend this screen to anyone.

Anyone have experience with the acoustic transparent screen from Elite? I have a cinetension2 now and due to various reasons will be looking for a different screen. Can someone offer their review or opinion on the Elite AT screens? It would be electric screen mounted from ceiling, about 13-15' from seating area, dark room and an Epson UB6500 PJ.

Thanks

I just bought the VMax2 AcousticPro screen 100" 16:9- I get a small bit of moire- but- overall- I've been very happy with the screen. I've been watching movies and playing xbox. The AcousticPro weave isn't noticeable at 12' where I have my couch, and it doesn't get in the way of my in wall Polk speakers in terms of sound. Sadly the previous versions ship with a black backing to reduce light pass through, and the version that I received doesn't have this backing. BTW- I'm using an Optoma HD66.

I have a Cinetension2 and a URC MX-900 remote.

I tried to learn the up/down/stop codes from my Elite Screen IR remote, and the MX-900 simply cannot learn these codes. Also, the codes supplied in the IR database don't work. Anyone here experience that?

I learned the Cinetension2 codes on an MX-980 as well as a MX-500.

I learned the Cinetension2 codes on an MX-980 as well as a MX-500.

Hmmmm, I can't figure this out, maybe my Cinetension2 remote has some kind of issue, although it does seem to work, I did experience a couple times where I have to keep pressing it for the screen to come down.

Post your impressions, I'm particularly interested in ease of assembly and final image quality. Thanks!

Just got mine last Friday....Assembly is easy....the most difficult is to tension the screen material and install the clips...you need someone to help and follow the directions.....

I will post my impresions in the image qualtiy as soon as I watch some movies....

I've had my screen almost a month now since I posted my original review here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=18888866#post18888866

I just want to say that the screen is working perfectly after a month of use. The surface has remained perfectly flat and wrinkle free so far. The motor with 12v trigger work great. I'm extremely pleased with this purchase. I'm enjoying watching my movie collection all over again!!

I have been doing some shopping and notice that there seem to be two series of Elite fixed frame screens out there. Can someone please explain the differences between the EZ-frame and sable-frame series besides the $100 price difference? I have been looking at 120" white. EZ-frames seem to be going around $400 and sable frames for around $300.

EDIT: Sorry folks. I did a search, but not wide enough. The info is already in this thread http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1214441

I just replaced my ES ezFrame (Cinewhite) with a ES Cinetension 2 (Cinewhite).
I moved and the PJ is in the living room not a dedicated room anymore.

The screen on the CT2 is alot darker then the screen on the ezF, is this right?
I was thinking they might have sent me a Cinegrey by accident but I checked my receipt, the box and the sticker on the screen they all have the model # for Cinewhite. The model # ends with W2.

Unless someone can tell me they use very different material for the two screens (ezF vs CT2) and this is normal can someone that owns a Cinetension 2 post (or pm) a picture and say if its a Cinewhite or Cinegrey so I can compare it to mine? Picture of the screen itself no video on it.

Thanks.

Question for anyone using the ZSP-TR01 12V triggered RF remote: I wondered if it was possible to convert the standard RF remote that ships with every Cinetension2 to the 12V triggered version with a little creative soldering. I opened my RF remote and noticed 5 open pins for "Control". Would someone with a ZSP-TR01 mind opening their remote and snapping a photo of the board, specifically showing the "control" pins? This could save a lot of people $80+ if it's an easy hack.

Thanks!

I just got my ES Cinetension 2 in Cinewhite and thought exactly the same thing that you did. I was expecting white to be.. Well.. White.. Cinewhite is really almost grey in color.

Went through exactly the same process as you did (check the model number, etc) and, unless Elite is putting the wrong material in many boxes, I'm going to say that Cinewhite is just not that "white" a color. :)

I'm very happy with the screen, it's working really well for me; I just expected it to be much brighter (with the lights on). I'm using mine with a 8500UB, and, frankly, I wouldn't want higher gain, the screen is really bright as it is. Just unnerving when I dropped the screen the first time!

I just replaced my ES ezFrame (Cinewhite) with a ES Cinetension 2 (Cinewhite).
I moved and the PJ is in the living room not a dedicated room anymore.

The screen on the CT2 is alot darker then the screen on the ezF, is this right?
I was thinking they might have sent me a Cinegrey by accident but I checked my receipt, the box and the sticker on the screen they all have the model # for Cinewhite. The model # ends with W2.

Unless someone can tell me they use very different material for the two screens (ezF vs CT2) and this is normal can someone that owns a Cinetension 2 post (or pm) a picture and say if its a Cinewhite or Cinegrey so I can compare it to mine? Picture of the screen itself no video on it.

Thanks.

Here are some pictures of mine; however, I don't really know how well these are going to show the actual color/shade of this screen.

Hope this helps.


I just replaced my ES ezFrame (Cinewhite) with a ES Cinetension 2 (Cinewhite).
I moved and the PJ is in the living room not a dedicated room anymore.

The screen on the CT2 is alot darker then the screen on the ezF, is this right?
I was thinking they might have sent me a Cinegrey by accident but I checked my receipt, the box and the sticker on the screen they all have the model # for Cinewhite. The model # ends with W2.

Unless someone can tell me they use very different material for the two screens (ezF vs CT2) and this is normal can someone that owns a Cinetension 2 post (or pm) a picture and say if its a Cinewhite or Cinegrey so I can compare it to mine? Picture of the screen itself no video on it.

Thanks.

Does anyone have a Elite Lunette curved screen? I am thinking about getting one. For the price they cant be beat.

Here are some pictures of mine; however, I don't really know how well these are going to show the actual color/shade of this screen.

Hope this helps.

Dude, IMO your screen is gray!

I would agree with you.

However, this is what Elite calls their "Cinewhite" screen; in their opinion, this is white. :)

Anyway, I just wanted to make sure that other people could see this so they don't have the same impression that I did (they sent the wrong screen). AFAIK, this is the CineWhite material (unless they put the wrong screen into a box marked CineWhite, and then put the wrong model number on the whole thing).


Dude, IMO your screen is gray!

well I am thinking of getting a Lunette with CineWhite. how do you like the CineWhite screen? Even tho the screen material is darker does it affect the image or is the picture still good?

I would agree with you.

However, this is what Elite calls their "Cinewhite" screen; in their opinion, this is white. :)

Anyway, I just wanted to make sure that other people could see this so they don't have the same impression that I did (they sent the wrong screen). AFAIK, this is the CineWhite material (unless they put the wrong screen into a box marked CineWhite, and then put the wrong model number on the whole thing).

I contacted ES and they said it is possible that a grey screen got placed in the white packaging. Rare but it could happen.
I contacted the store I purchased it at and first they offered to replace it or give me a discount to keep the grey screen but today they are reneging on that offer.
I will have to contact ES again, I'm pretty sure this is a grey screen comparing it to my other ES Cinewhite screen.

Thanks for the pictures, that's the same grey as my new one. Here's a picture of my other Cinewhite screen and the white I was expecting.

*Update: I contacted ES. They said they know that some of these shipped out with the wrong color screen and will be replacing it for me.

Oh man, are you serious? So that could really be a CineGray screen in a case/box marked CineWhite? Crap... I guess I'm going to have to get in touch with them too; this screen is, IMHO, a Gray color, I just never really thought that there was a possibility of them putting the wrong screen into a case marked "White".

Let me know how your replacement goes, and, most importantly, if they really did send the wrong screen.

Thx!


I contacted ES and they said it is possible that a grey screen got placed in the white packaging. Rare but it could happen.
I contacted the store I purchased it at and first they offered to replace it or give me a discount to keep the grey screen but today they are reneging on that offer.
I will have to contact ES again, I'm pretty sure this is a grey screen comparing it to my other ES Cinewhite screen.

Thanks for the pictures, that's the same grey as my new one. Here's a picture of my other Cinewhite screen and the white I was expecting.

*Update: I contacted ES. They said they know that some of these shipped out with the wrong color screen and will be replacing it for me.

I'm waiting for someone from ES to get back to me now to confirm everything they asked for pictures of the screen to prove its grey.
If all goes well I'll post a before and after picture for you and let you know how long it took to and the return process.

^ Updates?

Replacement screen is on the way from ES.
They are picking up the old one after the new one comes.
I am never ordering anything from this store again after they promised to resolve this then changed their mind and said that what I get doesn't have to match what I ordered and its not their problem. Good thing ES is a good company and is replacing it.

If anyone else exchanges theirs, the power cord can be on the left or right you have to specify which you want.
I'll update again after it comes.

Where did you buy the screen originally from?

Did you buy it from an online retailer or directly from Elite?

Where did you buy the screen originally from?

I ordered from Abe’s Of Maine (http://www.abesofmaine.com)
Like I said never again, they lost all of my business and the people I order equipment for.
I got my PJ (Epson 6500UB) and my first ES screen from one of the sponsors here, not worth it to save a few bucks.

hey guys. decided to get a bigger screen and am going to try out the eZ frame cinewhite rather than do another dyi with laminate. my screen arrives tomorrow.

i have a question though. my wall has some molding all over the middle of the wall - strips that are about inch deep. do i need to do anything because of that or will the parts that the screen ships with be enough to compensate for the molding?

thanks.

pic of part of the wall so you can see the molding

http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/773/67029755.jpg

I ordered from Abe’s Of Maine (http://www.abesofmaine.com)
Like I said never again, they lost all of my business and the people I order equipment for.
I got my PJ (Epson 6500UB) and my first ES screen from one of the sponsors here, not worth it to save a few bucks.

I think they are some crap outfit, never bought anything from them but read bad stories about them in the context of photo gear.

I am thinking of buying my screen from B&H, but then the screen I want is "special order". I am wondering how B&H would handle any potential issues.

On the bright side it seems the Elite company is stepping up nicely.

I am thinking of buying my screen from B&H, but then the screen I want is "special order". I am wondering how B&H would handle any potential issues.

B&H and Elite seem to have a pretty tight relationship, customer service-wise, so I wouldn't worry. I ordered the RF 12V triggered remote from B&H, and the next day a rep from Elite was calling me asking for my screen details to process the drop shipment. B&H sent a follow-up email later the same day confirming some of my info.

Anyone using the AcousticPro 1080? I am looking for impressions on the screen appearance.

I know its not as smooth as a non AT screen but I am curious if the screen "pores" detract from image performance at say 13-15 ft?

My first row is about 12 feet from my 120" AcousticPro1080 screen and I have not had any issues with the pores. Once you get about 8-10 feet away from the screen, it is hardly noticeable. Closer than that and you will see the pores.

I have been very impressed with the Screen, especially for the price.

Has anybody experiencies with this type of elite screen? What about wrinkled screen?

ok, i received the eZFrame Cinewhite and installed it. here is my comparison list so far versus the DYI Designer White Laminate I used before.

Ordering: Elite wins by a landslide. Easy to find everywhere. One click of the mouse and I had it the next day (paying overnight shipping of course). With the laminate, finding it can be a real pain in the butt and then there can be a decent wait to actually receive it.

Assembly/preparation: Elite by a landslide again. It took me 2 hours to put it together (which is probably longer than for most people). With DYI, I had to get the wood, cut it, get a gazillion pieces/tools, make several trips back to home depot because i didn't get enough of whatever material or needed a new tool, and so on. It took me almost 12 hours to assemble the DYI screen - and even then I still ended up with a smaller screen than I liked because part of the laminate cracked when I was assembling the screen.

Image Quality: Laminate. I could tell instantly that the Elite screen looked kinda washed out, had less pop, and was less contrasty. I'll have to cut a piece of laminate to compare, though I don't need to. However, that said I made some adjustments on my projector's settings to improve the contrast. It looks good enough for now and my eyes will end up adjusting anyway. However, I can see myself in 6 months to a year thinking about going with laminate again, but right now I don't feel like dealing with the hassle.

Anyways, for $400 for a 106 inch fixed frame screen, I think this is a great value and does almost everything right. If it wasn't for me having used laminate before, I would have thought it was the greatest screen ever. But the laminate spoiled me a little :) Ok, enough typing. Time to watch some more movies.

ok, i received the eZFrame Cinewhite and installed it. here is my comparison list so far versus the DYI Designer White Laminate I used before.

Ordering: Elite wins by a landslide. Easy to find everywhere. One click of the mouse and I had it the next day (paying overnight shipping of course). With the laminate, finding it can be a real pain in the butt and then there can be a decent wait to actually receive it.

Assembly/preparation: Elite by a landslide again. It took me 2 hours to put it together (which is probably longer than for most people). With DYI, I had to get the wood, cut it, get a gazillion pieces/tools, make several trips back to home depot because i didn't get enough of whatever material or needed a new tool, and so on. It took me almost 12 hours to assemble the DYI screen - and even then I still ended up with a smaller screen than I liked because part of the laminate cracked when I was assembling the screen.

Image Quality: Laminate. I could tell instantly that the Elite screen looked kinda washed out, had less pop, and was less contrasty. I'll have to cut a piece of laminate to compare, though I don't need to. However, that said I made some adjustments on my projector's settings to improve the contrast. It looks good enough for now and my eyes will end up adjusting anyway. However, I can see myself in 6 months to a year thinking about going with laminate again, but right now I don't feel like dealing with the hassle.

Anyways, for $400 for a 106 inch fixed frame screen, I think this is a great value and does almost everything right. If it wasn't for me having used laminate before, I would have thought it was the greatest screen ever. But the laminate spoiled me a little :) Ok, enough typing. Time to watch some more movies.

Interesting to see that the laminate appears to deliver a better overall image quality. What is the lamite you used? I got the Silverframe 1.8 Gain and it shows an improvement, though not dramatic, over my previous DIY, which was based on a Home Depot thrifty white panel painted with a Behr Siverframe based paint mix....

i used the Designer White laminate from Wilson Arts. it has a measured on-axis gain of 1.29, compared to .99 for the CineWhite screen, according to that pdf that is floating around this forum.

the Elite screen will do me ok for a little while (live in an apartment now). but there really is no comparison between the laminate and the Cinewhite. the laminate is so much more punchy and bright. and the perceived conterast is much higher. the Cinewhite looks more dull and dim in comparison.

again though, i have no regrets with the Elite screen. i knew i was going to get less gain and that's ok because i didn't want to deal with the hassle of another DYI build at the moment.

My replacement screen came in last Friday, I finally got to put it up just now (work, no time). It's white!
There was a 8in1 remote (ZR800D) in the box too the grey one didn't come with one.
UPS is coming soon to pickup the old one.

Here are some pictures so you can see the difference.

I'm considering buying the Kestrel tensioned 103C (2.35) screen.

Has any one had any experience on this model ? what's the surface material that can be ordered ? is the surface flat free of wrinkles ? is the motor noisy ? can the black drop be adjusted ? etc.

thanks.

i used the Designer White laminate from Wilson Arts. it has a measured on-axis gain of 1.29, compared to .99 for the CineWhite screen, according to that pdf that is floating around this forum.

the Elite screen will do me ok for a little while (live in an apartment now). but there really is no comparison between the laminate and the Cinewhite. the laminate is so much more punchy and bright. and the perceived conterast is much higher. the Cinewhite looks more dull and dim in comparison.

again though, i have no regrets with the Elite screen. i knew i was going to get less gain and that's ok because i didn't want to deal with the hassle of another DYI build at the moment.

I am happy I did not got the cinewhite, then.....The 1.8HG works very good with good material and resulted in an improvement when watching not so good material...This is my first screen and PJ, so I don't have much reference to compare with....Thks....

A unity gain screen, in a darkened room, with a properly calibrated PJ, in a size and PJ throw to deliver reference brightness levels, should yield the best image possible. Why someone would prefer a piece of laminate is questionable, but to each their own I guess.

My replacement screen came in last Friday, I finally got to put it up just now (work, no time). It's white!
There was a 8in1 remote (ZR800D) in the box too the grey one didn't come with one.
UPS is coming soon to pickup the old one.

Here are some pictures so you can see the difference.

Looks like I just have bad luck.
The new one when screen is up the left side is about 1/4 of an inch lower then the right side and when the screen goes up and down there's waves across the screen.
The original one was even and went up\down without any waves on the screen.

I adjusted the zoom on the PJ to make up for the screen not being even, but I'm worried about the waves every time it goes up and down causing wrinkles on the screen.
I contacted Elite and they said to leave the screen down for a few days and the weight should fix both issues.
I'm going to try this starting Monday (to many people over on the weekends to leave it down).
I'll update after a few days in case this happens to anyone else so they know what to do.

Well, you have waves, and I just got my Cinetension2 120" with a PIMPLE about 8 inches from the bottom, right in the middle of the screen.

Is there a way to solve this? It is brand new but no returns.

J

Hey guys, where are you ordering your Elite screens from? Are they shipped directly from Elite or from a distributor?

I am about to pull the trigger on 115" diag 2.35 Cinetension2.

I am going to be buying mine from Amazon. You should check at buy.com as well. they have great deals on certain Elite screens.

I am going to be buying mine from Amazon. You should check at buy.com as well. they have great deals on certain Elite screens.

As always, check both the price and the shipping cost. Some of the Amzaon featured merchants charge $70 or more for shipping which makes the overall package no bargain.

oh of course! I am an expert on online shopping! Free Shipping from Amazon plus a cheaper price cant be beat.

Amazon.com would be my #1 choice, but they don't sell 2.35 screens. It's either b&h or projectorzone.com.

Any experiences with projectorzone?

http://images.avsforum.com/alliance/avm-sm.gif (http://www.projectorpeople.com/)

Need advice on what screen to purchase for my current setup.

Seating area will be anywhere from 12-20 feet from screen.
9 ft ceilings.

Projector will be ceiling mounted wherever the distance is neccesary for screen size.

I have a HUGE Elite Screen right now, diagonal of 180ish inches. I need to downsize but upsize quality.

Was thinking around 120-130 inch diagonal....

Help???

what are your room dimensions?

http://images.avsforum.com/alliance/avm-sm.gif (http://www.projectorpeople.com/)

Thanks for the tip. Called them and got better deal than advertised anywhere else.

what are your room dimensions?
Sorry, forgot to include that. The room is 13.5 x 30 ft, but the seating area will be in the 12-18 ft distance from the screen. I have 9 ft ceilings.

The back of the room includes a closet, wetbar, bathroom.

I also wondered about fixed screens vs. motorized. Just starting the family out, have a 16 month old and 1 on the way. (don't want expensive screen to be ripped, poked, etc). I'm thinking a SmX screen is out of question.

Looks like I just have bad luck.
The new one when screen is up the left side is about 1/4 of an inch lower then the right side and when the screen goes up and down there's waves across the screen.
The original one was even and went up\down without any waves on the screen.

I adjusted the zoom on the PJ to make up for the screen not being even, but I'm worried about the waves every time it goes up and down causing wrinkles on the screen.
I contacted Elite and they said to leave the screen down for a few days and the weight should fix both issues.
I'm going to try this starting Monday (to many people over on the weekends to leave it down).
I'll update after a few days in case this happens to anyone else so they know what to do.

Leaving it down for a few days didn't help.
ES is now sending me some replacement parts that I should install.

haso anyone recently purchase a home2 screen? I hve heard good things and bad things about them. Nice picture with e fiberglass backing, but come all wrinkled and looking like crap. I love the price though so i am wondering if it is worth the risk...

I recently installed an 84" Elite fixed screen. The EZFrame. Due to the limitation of my room I have to mount the screen using only 2 of the mounting wall plates (Elite suggests 4). The 2 that I'm using are in the upper left and upper right corner, all the way in the corner. So the screen is hanging from it's corners. The frame has been up for 2 months now with no visible problems. Will I encounter any long term problems from hanging it this way? Like maybe the aluminum frame will start to sag slightly.

I recently installed an 84" Elite fixed screen. The EZFrame. Due to the limitation of my room I have to mount the screen using only 2 of the mounting wall plates (Elite suggests 4). The 2 that I'm using are in the upper left and upper right corner, all the way in the corner. So the screen is hanging from it's corners. The frame has been up for 2 months now with no visible problems. Will I encounter any long term problems from hanging it this way? Like maybe the aluminum frame will start to sag slightly.

Interesting. My 120" fixed frame only came with 2 mounting plates. I also mounted at the corners, and it seems to be doing fine. 84" should be a piece of cake.

I just put together a new 120" Elite CineWhite EZ-Frame fixed-frame screen (R120WH1). Once I got it together I noticed several wrinkles on the left 3"-4" of the screen. It looks like the wrinkles may be from being either improperly packaged, or from being boxed up for a long period of time (or both.) The screen is properly tensioned (see pics.)

I saw a post earlier where someone recommended applying heat with a blow-dryer to try and smooth-out/remove the wrinkles. Does anyone have any experience with this or know if it will indeed work? I've attached pics. From the front, my iPhone doesn't capture too much detail, but the pic from the back clearly shows the wrinkles. I'm assumming if I can see them with the naked eye from the front, that they will be clearly visible with a picture projected onto it.

Any insight into this would be appreciated.

Has anyone purchased a VMAX2 screen? I am thinking about getting one or just sticking with a fixed frame. havent decided yet.

Any Starbright 7 screen owners here? I'd like feedback.

Have you compared to other high gain screen material?

How does it compare to the Dalite High Power material?

Does it work well for a table mount projector?

Leaving it down for a few days didn't help.
ES is now sending me some replacement parts that I should install.

The replacement parts didn't help, they are sending another screen.
UPS only pickups the old screen M-F / 9-5 so you are forced to stay home and loose a day of work, ugh.

3 days a go I bought a VMAX2 100" screen.
Today after installation I just noticed cracking sound coming from the screen!!!!!
Brand new screen, never used!!! What a dissapointment :(
Here you can see a link to the video on youtube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eCIwMu-G_XY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eCIwMu-G_XY

Has anyone comment on the following screens: Elite Home 2 vs. Elite CineTension 2 Screen. Pros/Cons.

I found these instructions to be the best I've found, except (no fault of the poster I'm sure, I'm sure his screen's yellow screw adjusted the drop height),

on my screen the YELLOW screw adjusted the top stop, and the WHITE screw adjusted the bottom drop position. Go figure why Elite would be so inconsistent with color coding. I can only recommend that instead of going by color, go by position (the screw closer to the front of the screen adjusts the bottom drop). At least on mine! :)

I posted this review on Amazon, folks here might find it useful:

....

Vertical Drop Adjustment:
The first time you lower the screen, it will go all the way down to its lowest level by default (at least mine did). I needed to raise it by 3 inches so that it stopped just above our media cabinet. The instructions to do this are on the website here:
http://www.elitescreens.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=20&catid=1&Itemid=19&lang=en

The instructions are not very clear. You can only fine tune the adjustment on the way down, which means you must first bring the limit up and then adjust it down. Here's my version, if you want to raise the limit of where the screen stops on the way down...

1) First, don't mess with the grey screw, this adjusts the UP limit and you shouldn't have to touch this.
2) To adjust the DOWN limit, you want to adjust the yellow screw ONLY.
3) Put the screen down.
4) DO NOT turn the yellow screw counter-clockwise at this point as this will cause the screen to fully come down and possibly drop out of the box
5) With the screen down, measure approximately how many inches you want to raise the lower limit.
6) Raise the screen up (fully retracted)
7) Turn the yellow screw clockwise one full turn per inch that you measured, and add an extra turn or two.
8) Put the screen down, it should now have stopped at a higher point than before.
9) With the screen down, turn the yellow screw counter-clockwise. For each small turn, the screen will immediately drop a little bit. Keep turning the screw slowly until you are satisfied with the position. Done.

The replacement parts didn't help, they are sending another screen.
UPS only pickups the old screen M-F / 9-5 so you are forced to stay home and loose a day of work, ugh.

Finally got the third replacement, this one is good finally.

Finally got the third replacement, this one is good finally.

Hope it stays that way.

Several years ago I purchased a M150UWH Elite screen (1.1 gain, matte white). Over the few years, it has developed waves starting on the right top corner that go to the bottom middle, and the same for the left side. Does anyone else have this problem? Is there any way to get rid of the waves instead of buying a new one (although the screen is only about 280.00 on Amazon which is inexpensive for a 150" screen, I just can't afford the Cinetension).

I am purchasing a JVC RS-50 3D projector this week and am wondering if those waves are going to affect the 3D. Right now I only see the waves very slightly on a regular picture (non-3d) during very white scenes. These are not the same as Medicineman (see photos post 1099), mine are 3 or 4 waves in the screen where it is not completely flat in those areas. They come all the way down from each corner on the top to the middle of the screen at the bottom.

Can I do something to correct this?

How is Elite Electric screen compare to Focupix Electric screen?

I have a HOME2 120" screen I would like to use my amps trigger to drop the screen. I used a 1/8" mono jack and conected it to the CAT5 cable that goes into the screen. When the amp turns on the screen drops, once fully deployed its starts to rise 30sec or so latter.

If I unplug the trigger on the amp and plug it into the other trigger port the screen begins to retract once agin but only for a short time as well (or if the power is cycled the amp)

Is this a problem with the screen? I am thinking its the amp (Yamaha rx-a1000)?

3 days a go I bought a VMAX2 100" screen.
Today after installation I just noticed cracking sound coming from the screen!!!!!
Brand new screen, never used!!! What a dissapointment :(
Here you can see a link to the video on youtube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eCIwMu-G_XY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eCIwMu-G_XY

Yes mine does thay as well but not as bad. Mine started after 8-10 uses but has not gottem worse. Did you ever find out what ot was?

Any Starbright 7 screen owners here? I'd like feedback.

Have you compared to other high gain screen material?

How does it compare to the Dalite High Power material?

Does it work well for a table mount projector?

I would like to know as well. I need a replacement screen due to tear, and they do not make my existing screen anymore- m2500 with 2.1 gain. The hp is great, but not so for ceiling mounts

Several years ago I purchased a M150UWH Elite screen (1.1 gain, matte white). Over the few years, it has developed waves starting on the right top corner that go to the bottom middle, and the same for the left side. Does anyone else have this problem? Is there any way to get rid of the waves instead of buying a new one (although the screen is only about 280.00 on Amazon which is inexpensive for a 150" screen, I just can't afford the Cinetension).

I am purchasing a JVC RS-50 3D projector this week and am wondering if those waves are going to affect the 3D. Right now I only see the waves very slightly on a regular picture (non-3d) during very white scenes. These are not the same as Medicineman (see photos post 1099), mine are 3 or 4 waves in the screen where it is not completely flat in those areas. They come all the way down from each corner on the top to the middle of the screen at the bottom.

Can I do something to correct this?

depending on how "adventuresome" you want to get, you could try inserting sheets of paper in the roller. Basically, you cause the screen to unroll as far it can with the limit screws (careful here), then take some "pieces of say print paper" (ie. 8X11 or smaller depending on how much room you have on the top border), insert/wedge them in along the roller/"take up wraps" of the screen, you then roll up the screen, put your "stop limits" back and deploy again. The paper will take up a "fraction" more of the screen in the middle (that's where you stick them mostly) and might help with the dreaded "V" waves which are usually caused by roller sag among other things.

I got a sample of the starbrite and their other lower gain screens. The starbrite was interesting. The sample was too small to say anything definite one way or the other. It does have a distinct look to it, a certain sheen. I had it side by side with the High Power 2.4, and it's noticeably brighter then the HP. Almost blinding during white screens. Viewing angle is not too bad but again, I had a small sample. There is no black backing on it, it's very thin - stretchy. I wish I could see a full screen with it.

They were very quick to get me samples though, and nice to deal with.

depending on how "adventuresome" you want to get, you could try inserting sheets of paper in the roller. Basically, you cause the screen to unroll as far it can with the limit screws (careful here), then take some "pieces of say print paper" (ie. 8X11 or smaller depending on how much room you have on the top border), insert/wedge them in along the roller/"take up wraps" of the screen, you then roll up the screen, put your "stop limits" back and deploy again. The paper will take up a "fraction" more of the screen in the middle (that's where you stick them mostly) and might help with the dreaded "V" waves which are usually caused by roller sag among other things.


I am not quite sure I understand. Yes I have the dreaded V waves. My screen has been down since day 1 I have only once rolled it back up, is this something that happens all the time on these bigger models? I also thought of tying some string on the bottom pole on both sides and stretching it a bit that way making it tighter, I noticed when I pull that way it makes them go away. I would have to use a nail on the wall or something to tie them to. Do you think this might work?

I am not quite sure I understand. Yes I have the dreaded V waves. My screen has been down since day 1 I have only once rolled it back up, is this something that happens all the time on these bigger models? I also thought of tying some string on the bottom pole on both sides and stretching it a bit that way making it tighter, I noticed when I pull that way it makes them go away. I would have to use a nail on the wall or something to tie them to. Do you think this might work?

What budwich is saying is the roller is sagging (not straight any more.)
So you mark the top of your screen where it just sticks out of the case when extended to the normal spot with some tape, then adjust the stop setting so it extends as far as it can go.
Next cut some paper that will fit within the distance between the roller and your tape (so it is not to big). insert the paper in the center area of the screen between the screen and roller and roll up the the screen. Reset the stop and extend the screen.
The thickness of the paper will cause the center of the the screen to be up higher than the edges which may help the waves. Add and remove paper to adjust.

I have never done this, but that is what I understand his post to say.

Will a 12.6v source fry out the board on the elete screens trigger input. Its rated for 5-12v. 12.6v .1amp is what the projector outputs... I would not think the extra .6v would be an issue?

the Elite 92" manual pull down has generally favorable reviews> its only about ~$100. would it go well with an Epson 6100? its gonna be more of a temporary screen so i dont really wanna spend a lot of money.

the Elite 92" manual pull down has generally favorable reviews> its only about ~$100. would it go well with an Epson 6100? its gonna be more of a temporary screen so i dont really wanna spend a lot of money.

It's $100. You don't get much choice at that price point. Anything in that price range is going to be just about the same, matte white pvc on a cheap roller made in china. It will be fine for a starter screen.

Bought a 92" Silver Frame SILVERFRAME92HG1 from an outfit called Tech For Less.

I'm not sure how they came to have this unit as it looks like it was the only one they had, but I got it for $170 with free delivery. It was perfect when I took it out of the box.

Took some effort to put together, but now it looks perfect on my wall. Couldn't be happier.

Congrads Jason on your new screen. I love my Elite! And for those looking and wondering about 3D, I had saved for 4 years and just purchased the JVC RS-50 projector and the 3D looks absolutely brilliant. I have their Maxwhite 1.1 gain 150" screen, and it is stunning, and the screen only cost me 275.00.

The problem with the bigger screens is they start to get slight waves in them, from the upper corner to the mid center bottom, sometimes shaped like a V. Mine has it and you can see it whenever there is white. Not prominent but it is there. I am trying to find a way to tie the bottom pole to something on each side to pull on it which would get rid of it. Anyone else have this problem? Mine is 3 years old. I was given some advice in earlier posts here and 2 people tried to explain it, but I just don't understand what they are saying.

The problem with the bigger screens is they start to get slight waves in them, from the upper corner to the mid center bottom, sometimes shaped like a V. Mine has it and you can see it whenever there is white. Not prominent but it is there. I am trying to find a way to tie the bottom pole to something on each side to pull on it which would get rid of it. Anyone else have this problem? Mine is 3 years old. I was given some advice in earlier posts here and 2 people tried to explain it, but I just don't understand what they are saying.

From airscapes...
------------
So you mark the top of your screen where it just sticks out of the case when extended to the normal spot with some tape, then adjust the stop setting so it extends as far as it can go.
Next cut some paper that will fit within the distance between the roller and your tape (so it is not to big). insert the paper in the center area of the screen between the screen and roller and roll up the the screen. Reset the stop and extend the screen.
The thickness of the paper will cause the center of the the screen to be up higher than the edges which may help the waves. Add and remove paper to adjust.

I have never done this, but that is what I understand his post to say.
-----------

I've never done this either, but plan to in the next day or so as I have the same issues.

The only sure fire way to get rid of waves is to switch to a fixed frame screen. Been there, had waves, now I'm a happy camper!

The only sure fire way to get rid of waves is to switch to a fixed frame screen. Been there, had waves, now I'm a happy camper!

Sometimes fixed frames isn't an option. I know in my house the only room big enough for a decent projector is my family room or master bedroom (no basements in Houston). So I mounted the screen above the entertainment center and it drops down infront of our TV. Having a fixed frame that I would have to put up and take down, not to mention store somewhere isn't an option. I purchased a 5 year warranty on my screen though, still hope the above solution works. Keep us updated.

I added half a sheet of 8.5x11" paper to the roller and it seemed to help the waves. I'll mess with it somemore this week. I added it to the middle of the screen, I may add a second, but put them evenly across the top, instead of right in the middle.

Just received a VMAX100 for Xmas and I can't figure out if I need an optional bracket for ceiling installation. The instructions are POOR. Presumably if I can use the included bracket or buy another one I'll have to hit studs on either side right? So what if the case doesn't match up? Presumably it won't unless I get VERY lucky.

Thanks for the help.

Just received a VMAX100 for Xmas and I can't figure out if I need an optional bracket for ceiling installation. The instructions are POOR. Presumably if I can use the included bracket or buy another one I'll have to hit studs on either side right? So what if the case doesn't match up? Presumably it won't unless I get VERY lucky.

Thanks for the help.
miatame, I have the same screen that you mentioned that my son got me for Christmas. He didn't do his homework though. I needed a screen with about 17" of drop, which he never thought of. Looks like I'll be angling the projector up a bit. I previously had a DIY blackout cloth screen which was suspended by two hooks screwed into the ceiling rafters. Of course these don't line up with the ends of the new screen so I was thinking of buying a 10' piece of 1"x2" poplar or pine which I'll paint white to match the ceiling. I can measure the distance between the mounting tabs at the edges of the screen and then install some appropriate hardware to the 1x2 at those measurements and then secure it to the rafters. The new screen will then have hooks at the correct locations. Not an elegant solution but it beats having to move the projector.

miatame, I have the same screen that you mentioned that my son got me for Christmas. He didn't do his homework though. I needed a screen with about 17" of drop, which he never thought of. Looks like I'll be angling the projector up a bit. I previously had a DIY blackout cloth screen which was suspended by two hooks screwed into the ceiling rafters. Of course these don't line up with the ends of the new screen so I was thinking of buying a 10' piece of 1"x2" poplar or pine which I'll paint white to match the ceiling. I can measure the distance between the mounting tabs at the edges of the screen and then install some appropriate hardware to the 1x2 at those measurements and then secure it to the rafters. The new screen will then have hooks at the correct locations. Not an elegant solution but it beats having to move the projector.

Can you not return the screen for the one with the proper drop????

Yeah I guess I'm not a big fan of wood planks along the ceiling. I wish the brackets were adjustable along the length of the casing. Are there any other options?

Got the screen up last night. Basically what I thought it would be like...lots of talking with my buddy about the best way to mount it, lots of time gaining access to the ceiling through the attic, lots of time finding the stud and then 5 minutes to actually screw the screen into the ceiling. It looks GREAT though. I got "lucky" and had studs running parallel with the screen so I didn't have to use the 1"x6" plank I bought. It would have looked funny.

Please keep in mind this is right after the install so the furniture is all over the place and cr@p everywhere. This is not how the room will look when it's done! :) Oh and keep in mind that's a 40" LCD TV....100" screens are huge! haha I love it!

Screen up:
http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv108/bmwme/aceec502.jpg

Screen down:
http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv108/bmwme/e81d7d9c.jpg

My thoughts so far are that the screen material is stinky (it smells like plastic so bad! haha) but very good quality. Slapped my Epson Pro 800 on a table, hooked up my bluray player and played the lobby scene in Matrix. No adjustments, just fired it at the new screen, and it looked pretty awesome.

The IR remote is horrible. It doesn't work half the time, I need to figure out why.

The motor is slow, and while it is smooth there is a clicking sound every foot or so when it rolls up or down. Disconcerting but we'll see.

Overall for $350 shipped it is a great deal. I'll get some quality shots up when the theater room is done and painted.

One thing, what do you guys do with the power cord? It is so not elegant hanging down and the cord is only about 5 feet so how do they expect you to plug it in? It is assumed you will have an outlet on the ceiling?

can some one enlighten me on the quality of my screen?

I have a Silver Frame series with cinewhite I purchased 2 years ago in 120". this was my first screen in my first theater. Impulse buy on Ebay.

I have heard good things about the Elunevision Reference screen. I hrard everyone raving about the SMOOTH surface.

I have a completely light controlled room with flat black walls..

Is this an upgrade for me or should I be happy with what I have? I am just looking for a change and or doing research on my current equipment. I am also hearing my screen is pretty decent for what I paid for it. I recently got my HT done in my new house and was just looking to do some tweaking, I just dont like the actual silver frame itself. I like the black velvet frame on the Elunevision. Plus the smooth screen.

Thank you all.

Well, I have to say that I've been pretty happy with my 100" Elite CineTension2 so far. We went with this set up because my boys (8 & 10) still watch a lot of Nick and Disney channels and I didn't want them running up the hours on the PJ on that crap. The white furniture was somewhat expensive and only a few years old, so we rearranged it. It does through off some light, but it's not distracting to me and the people we've had over so far.

My only problem with the screen has been trying to figure out how to get the 12v trigger to work. The manual says red is +12v and green is 0v, but I'm not sure what is what from the Epson 8350. So, if anyone has any insight on that, it would be appreciated.

Screen Up
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w192/jbrentd/House%20Stuff/Theater-5453.jpg

Screen Down
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w192/jbrentd/House%20Stuff/Theater-5454.jpg

Well, I have to say that I've been pretty happy with my 100" Elite CineTension2 so far. We went with this set up because my boys (8 & 10) still watch a lot of Nick and Disney channels and I didn't want them running up the hours on the PJ on that crap. The white furniture was somewhat expensive and only a few years old, so we rearranged it. It does through off some light, but it's not distracting to me and the people we've had over so far.

My only problem with the screen has been trying to figure out how to get the 12v trigger to work. The manual says red is +12v and green is 0v, but I'm not sure what is what from the Epson 8350. So, if anyone has any insight on that, it would be appreciated.


Haha, Like your setup. We think alike.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r84/buster6070/SI851384.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r84/buster6070/SI851393.jpg

Can't help you on the 12v trigger setup. I used my Harmony 900 to control the screen. If you have a Harmony it's in their library of devices. Or if you have a remote that can learn IR commands that'll work too.

Haha, Like your setup. We think alike.

Can't help you on the 12v trigger setup. I used my Harmony 900 to control the screen. If you have a Harmony it's in their library of devices. Or if you have a remote that can learn IR commands that'll work too.

I have a Harmony 900 as well and found the screen in the home appliance device section. After setting it up, it won't control it. Were there any special tricks that you remember?

I have a Harmony 900 as well and found the screen in the home appliance device section. After setting it up, it won't control it. Were there any special tricks that you remember?

Yeah. For some reason none of my buttons were programmed correctly off the bat to make the screen go up and down. Second, since it's considered a home appliance the software doens't realize it needs to be down/up like a TV needs to be on/off when viewing something. Not sure how familiar you are with the software so I'll go over both.

1st, programming the buttons with the correct actions in case you ever just wanna use the screen by itself.

Devices>Home Appliance Settings>

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r84/buster6070/SI851399.jpg

Customize Buttons

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r84/buster6070/SI851401.jpg

These are the buttons I chose to use, but it's really all up to works best for you.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r84/buster6070/SI851403.jpg


2nd, telling the software to drop and raise the screen when using the projector.

So under activites, click on settings>

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r84/buster6070/SI851404.jpg

Review the settings for this Activity>

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r84/buster6070/SI851405.jpg

Yes, but I want to add more control of options and devices for this Activity

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r84/buster6070/SI851406.jpg

You then want to Add "Elite Screens Home Appliance" to the Devices in Use list. In the picture I already have it added.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r84/buster6070/SI851407.jpg

Skip through the next two screens as I'm guessing these settings are already setup. Now you want to add an action for the "Elite Screen Home Appliance" and choose the direction down for the Start Action and direction up for Leave Action.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r84/buster6070/SI851408.jpg

You'll have to go through each activity that uses the projecter and set this up. Kinda a pain but what can you do? Hope this helps you out.

Thanks for the screenshots. I confirmed that I had it set up like that, but when I try to raise or lower the screen, the radio icon at the top of the 900's display doesn't come on at all like it does for any other device.

Thanks for the screenshots. I confirmed that I had it set up like that, but when I try to raise or lower the screen, the radio icon at the top of the 900's display doesn't come on at all like it does for any other device.


Damn, I'm such an idiot. You know what, this did happen to me too. Can't believe I didn't remember. Mine didn't know the IR commands. How Logitech has this device listed, but no IR commands is dumb I think. Your gonna have to teach it the IR commands. You'll need to hook up the remote to your computer via the USB cable. Then open the software up and go to Devices. There should be a "Learn IR" option. From there it's pretty self explanatory. Basically you pick the action/command you want it to learn, then push the button on the original remote while pointing it at the bottom of the Logitech remote. I had to really mess around with it before it picked up the IR signal. I ended up taking the battery cover off the 900 because it seemed it was getting the signal through it's window. Maybe it was scratched up or something. Let me know if this fixes it or you need more help. Not at home so can't post screenshots of what I mean. But will be home later tonight. Good Luck. Oh and make sure you use the IR remote that came with the screen and not the Radio one.

Hi all.

I am considering an Elite Cinetension to go with my new Epson 8350.

However, where I plan to mount this is on a sloped ceiling (about 45 degrees.) For anyone that has installed this screen, do you know if it is possible to mount the screen on a slope?

Thanks!

Hi all.

I am considering an Elite Cinetension to go with my new Epson 8350.

However, where I plan to mount this is on a sloped ceiling (about 45 degrees.) For anyone that has installed this screen, do you know if it is possible to mount the screen on a slope?

Thanks!

The mount is made for a flat wall or ceiling. Won't work on a sloped ceiling. If your pretty handy around the house, you could just do a little custom fabrication. Get some wood and cut some right triangles. Mount those to the studs in the ceiling and then you got yourself a flat surface to screw the mounts into.

Anyone have experiences with Elite RMA/return policy? Thanks in advance.

Hi considering buying a cheapo Elite manual pull down 120" screen. How is everyone's experience with these? Good enough wave wise or save for something better? It will be my first screen (and projector). I can't do a fixed screen as it will be coming down in front of my lcd. I will be using wall extensions to bring it in front of my lcd tv 8 inches.

Hi considering buying a cheapo Elite manual pull down 120" screen. How is everyone's experience with these? Good enough wave wise or save for something better? It will be my first screen (and projector). I can't do a fixed screen as it will be coming down in front of my lcd. I will be using wall extensions to bring it in front of my lcd tv 8 inches.

I have had their 150" pulldown manual 1.1 gain maxwhite screen for 4 years now and I get a fantastic picture on it. I am not saying there isn't better but I only paid $299 for mine on sale, was running my Epson original 1080 (non UB) until last month and purchased a new JVC 3D RS50, and it also looks great on the screen.

From what I have heard any manual pulldown larger than 70 or 80 inches (and even those at times) are going to get waves. Mine has them. So what I did was just used some tape and taped the bottom right and left to the wall after pulling it flat, presto, done! But the only time you see the waves is when there is a white image on them and then very little.

I think for the money the Elite "cheapo" is a great product and was very surprised how good it was when I started watching high def on it. I was stunned they could sell it for that price. The top bar is very secure and looks great and you get 12" of extra black on the top to pull the screen lower. Since I purchased this new expensive projector, however, I am considering a High Power 2.4 gain screen, only to brighten the 3D. But this one is fine with me, so I am not sure if I am willing to spend $700.

I have had their 150" pulldown manual 1.1 gain maxwhite screen for 4 years now and I get a fantastic picture on it. I am not saying there isn't better but I only paid $299 for mine on sale, was running my Epson original 1080 (non UB) until last month and purchased a new JVC 3D RS50, and it also looks great on the screen.

From what I have heard any manual pulldown larger than 70 or 80 inches (and even those at times) are going to get waves. Mine has them. So what I did was just used some tape and taped the bottom right and left to the wall after pulling it flat, presto, done! But the only time you see the waves is when there is a white image on them and then very little.

I think for the money the Elite "cheapo" is a great product and was very surprised how good it was when I started watching high def on it. I was stunned they could sell it for that price. The top bar is very secure and looks great and you get 12" of extra black on the top to pull the screen lower. Since I purchased this new expensive projector, however, I am considering a High Power 2.4 gain screen, only to brighten the 3D. But this one is fine with me, so I am not sure if I am willing to spend $700.


Thanks for the advice i probably will since i really can't see the justification in price difference in a pulldown vs. fixed other than the wave thing.
Would putting some weight on the floor/tensioned by string to the screen help with waves? I'll have my screen 6+" away from the wall so taping it to the wall is not an option.
Input would be greatly appreciated.

I have just ordered the Osprey Tension Dual Series 133" unit and I was wondering if other users are happy with their purchase. I am going to team it up with a JVC X7 and a CAVX Mk3 lens. I hear poor stories over here in AUS about some units but I bit the bullet and decided to get the dual system.

update on unit ...well it has been a while now since I ordered my dual screen , but it ain't coming.Elite will not be making my screen as there are not enough orders for the unit size.. WOW you could have told me sooner ? So I have decided to get a
ElectriCinema 130" 2.35 In-Ceiling Screen with Side Masking unit from Screen Technics ....thanks for the memories ELITE !

I put up my Elite Cinetension2 84" 1.8 16:9 yesterday and have a few early observations:

1) hung it on a wall using lag bolts to studs. The included brackets/mounting system allow the screen to be slid side to side while securely mounted but not yet tightened. This makes for a nice adaptable mounting that allows good wood to be used even if the studs are not ideally located.

2) I'm surprised to find no "sparkles" or rough uneven surface in the gain screen. I'd expected some of that as typical for gain type screens, but this is nice and smooth.

3) Very lightweight vinyl. Not sure I'm thrilled about it but I guess it works. The tabs that serve as guides for the tensioning cords seem like they'd rip through if manhandled in any way.

4) Although there are cautions not to adjust the tension the (poorly written) manual includes directions for doing so.

5)Neither my wife or I noticed a very objectionable odor. Just that smell of vinyl, like a kid's ball or the like. Not a big deal at all.

6) We don't find the speed of the screens rolling up or down to be slow as so often complained about. I don't think going any faster would be good for wrinkle prevention. I'll time it next time, but doubt it took more than 15 seconds from rolled to all the way down.

7)no wrinkles as received and mounted for use.

8) My projector isn't up yet so I flashed the screen from watch position with my Canon 580 EX II on full blast. Nice even image of the overall white part (the screen). I don't know for sure that it means no hot spotting, but it's a reassuring experiment.

I bought it from an ebay seller at $357. shipped for free.

Krs, good to hear you are happy with the screen..

New projector/screen owner, not pleased at all with Elite screens so far. My first one had a giant "hot spot" that was very noticeable especially on light scenes, so I used the RMA warranty and just got the new screen material. I put it on and it has the same exact "hot spot" or footprint. Is this normal? Anything that can be done to fix it?
Has anyone seen this type of thing on the more expensive brands? Because I am seriously thinking of going with a better brand. Any suggestions for better brands?

thx much

Which Elite model? Which screen material? Size? Distance of projector? Model of projector? Height of screen and projector? Seating distance?

All these things affect hot spotting, and changing any one can improve the situation greatly. At this point, it is hard for anyone to recommend something.

Anyone have the HSR-pro version of the screen? They have the SRM tech so the screen (which is manual) will have a controlled return into the case and the screen material is a 1.1 gain with fiberglass backing to apparently prevent waves from forming.

Jayn j, It can't possibly be any one of those things except the screen material itself. It was on the material from the minute I took it out of the box and attached it to the frame.. It has to be a screen defect.
It has been on both rolls of Elite screen material. Not sure what to do now other than call Elite on it for a third time.

It's an elite sable frame 100" inch, cinewhite. Epson 8350 powerlite. Height of projector about 7.5 feet. Distance to screen about 14'. Center of screen is about 4' off ground. Seating is 14' from screen.

I ordered a 84" CineTension2 CineWhite screen from Visual Apex and received it a few days ago. One side of the outer box was wet but the inner box was dry. Good! :) Just a few minutes ago I finally have time to take the screen out of the plastic only to discover they sent me the wrong fabric. The label on the outer box had the correct model number -- TE84HW2 -- but the label on the back of the screen read TE84HC2. Ugh.

I sent Visual Apex an e-mail with pictures, but I have a feeling they will redirect me to Elite Screens customer service. How is Elite Screens at handling errors that they made? Will I have to pay out of my pocket to send this screen back? Are they going to wait for this screen before they send me the correct one? Will they charge me shipping to ship the correct screen? Will the shipping be expedited?

Edit:

I did a little research at Elite Screen's website on their screen fabrics. The difference in gain between CineWhite and CineGrey is 0.1 which is very small. I'm thinking of just keeping the screen because of that, but I want to know if there are other differences. Do whites still look white in CineGrey screens, or do they look grey-ish? I should add I'm using a Sanyo PLV-Z3000 projector.

I ordered a 84" CineTension2 CineWhite screen from Visual Apex and received it a few days ago. One side of the outer box was wet but the inner box was dry. Good! :) Just a few minutes ago I finally have time to take the screen out of the plastic only to discover they sent me the wrong fabric. The label on the outer box had the correct model number -- TE84HW2 -- but the label on the back of the screen read TE84HC2. Ugh.

I sent Visual Apex an e-mail with pictures, but I have a feeling they will redirect me to Elite Screens customer service. How is Elite Screens at handling errors that they made? Will I have to pay out of my pocket to send this screen back? Are they going to wait for this screen before they send me the correct one? Will they charge me shipping to ship the correct screen? Will the shipping be expedited?

Edit:

I did a little research at Elite Screen's website on their screen fabrics. The difference in gain between CineWhite and CineGrey is 0.1 which is very small. I'm thinking of just keeping the screen because of that, but I want to know if there are other differences. Do whites still look white in CineGrey screens, or do they look grey-ish? I should add I'm using a Sanyo PLV-Z3000 projector.

Visual Apex should not send you to Elite, they should handle it for you so that there is no work on your end. You should just sit back and let them figure it out. I have a good relationship with some of the guys over at Elite. Although you didn't buy from AV Science, I can see if I can talk to them for you if you like...

That's assuming that Visual Apex sends you directly to them.

Thanks,

Benito

Visual Apex should not send you to Elite, they should handle it for you so that there is no work on your end. You should just sit back and let them figure it out. I have a good relationship with some of the guys over at Elite. Although you didn't buy from AV Science, I can see if I can talk to them for you if you like...

That's assuming that Visual Apex sends you directly to them.

Thanks,

Benito

Thanks Benito, I will work with Visual Apex first to see how they will take care of the situation. :) I wonder if Visual Apex and/or Elite Screens will allow me to mount the screen onto the wall first before making the exchange. I did a search last night on CineGrey and it looks like Elite Screens also made labelling mistakes in the past. It makes me wonder if I actually have a CineWhite screen with the wrong sticker.

Btw, I have dealt with AV Science about 6 years ago with Daniel Hutnicki for one of those now discontinued (?) curved ultra high gain Vutec screens, and I completely forgot about you guys when looking for a new screen. :o

Anybody has any experiences with the Lunette series curved fixed screens from Elite expecially in terms of build quality etc.

Lunette Series Link (http://elitescreens.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=486&catid=12&Itemid=20&lang=en)

I'm looking for a 2.35:1 curved screen and I'm considering getting a 158" diag 2.35 Lunette series screen and upgrading it with Centerstage XD or StudioTek 130 material (depending on whether we decide to go AT or not).

Rather than build a curved frame myself I figure this would be a better way to go as I can get a Curved screen with a high quality material fro less than $2K

look to the left of the coke bottle and you'll see a bright "spot", this is actually in the screen material and not the projector. Has anyone ever seen this? this is my second Elite screen with this same exact spot.

look to the left of the coke bottle and you'll see a bright "spot", this is actually in the screen material and not the projector. Has anyone ever seen this? this is my second Elite screen with this same exact spot.

Since it is the exact same spot, I really would be looking for something other than the screen. I assume you have it mounted in the exact same place.

Try taking it off the wall and setting it on the floor. See if the image moves with the screen or stays in the same place relative to the room. If the later, look for other lights in the room that could reflect. Also, look at unmounting the projector and trying it from a lower location. See if that changes it. If you are seeing it when the projector is off, then it is ambient light. Try moving a hand in front of the spot and see if you can block the hot spot.

I guess it could also be a wave in the material causing it to focus light. If that was the case, it would not move as you moved around the room.

I looked at the picture, and it really looks like reflected light to me. A screen defect would have sharper edges.

look to the left of the coke bottle and you'll see a bright "spot", this is actually in the screen material and not the projector. Has anyone ever seen this? this is my second Elite screen with this same exact spot.

I'm not sure how big your screen is, but if it's small enough that you can turn it on it's side (standing up), you could see if the hotspot shows up at the same spot in the room (but different spot on the screen). That would help determine if it's the projector or some reflection from somewhere else, versus being the screen itself.

I'm not sure how big your screen is, but if it's small enough that you can turn it on it's side (standing up), you could see if the hotspot shows up at the same spot in the room (but different spot on the screen). That would help determine if it's the projector or some reflection from somewhere else, versus being the screen itself.

Since it is the exact same spot, I really would be looking for something other than the screen. I assume you have it mounted in the exact same place.

Try taking it off the wall and setting it on the floor. See if the image moves with the screen or stays in the same place relative to the room. If the later, look for other lights in the room that could reflect. Also, look at unmounting the projector and trying it from a lower location. See if that changes it. If you are seeing it when the projector is off, then it is ambient light. Try moving a hand in front of the spot and see if you can block the hot spot.

I guess it could also be a wave in the material causing it to focus light. If that was the case, it would not move as you moved around the room.

I looked at the picture, and it really looks like reflected light to me. A screen defect would have sharper edges.

Guys,

Thx for your input, and believe me I have tried everything you have recommended. It is definitely not the projector, If you look at the screen from the side with the projector off, you can see the spot and it is dark (see pic below, it is acutally from my first screen and the spot was a little bigger), and no that is not a dirt stain cuz it looks like a dirty spot that would just wipe off. When the projector is on, the spot is much lighter than the rest of the screen. It is not ambient light and there is nothing that could reflect onto screen. I shot the image on the wall with screen out of the way and there is no spot. I took the screen material off and put it on the other way and the spot just moves to the other side of the coke bottle, so it is in the screen material. I talked to Elite and they think it's a bad "roll" of production so they are sending me another piece of material. Their screen material is marked with a serial # indicating which "roll" of production it came from. My first roll and second roll both had different serial #'s so that means both of them were bad, so who's to say the third roll won't have a spot on it.
Not sure what I'm going to do if it has one too.

Guys,

Thx for your input, and believe me I have tried everything you have recommended. It is definitely not the projector, If you look at the screen from the side with the projector off, you can see the spot and it is dark (see pic below, it is acutally from my first screen and the spot was a little bigger), and no that is not a dirt stain cuz it looks like a dirty spot that would just wipe off. When the projector is on, the spot is much lighter than the rest of the screen. It is not ambient light and there is nothing that could reflect onto screen. I shot the image on the wall with screen out of the way and there is no spot. I took the screen material off and put it on the other way and the spot just moves to the other side of the coke bottle, so it is in the screen material. I talked to Elite and they think it's a bad "roll" of production so they are sending me another piece of material. Their screen material is marked with a serial # indicating which "roll" of production it came from. My first roll and second roll both had different serial #'s so that means both of them were bad, so who's to say the third roll won't have a spot on it.
Not sure what I'm going to do if it has one too.

Bad rolls happen. I've seen bad rolls with marks, wrong gain...that sort of stuff. The problem is that higher end companies have better QC and can catch bad runs before the material gets to production.

Benito

Anybody has any experiences with the Lunette series curved fixed screens from Elite expecially in terms of build quality etc.

Lunette Series Link (http://elitescreens.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=486&catid=12&Itemid=20&lang=en)

I'm looking for a 2.35:1 curved screen and I'm considering getting a 158" diag 2.35 Lunette series screen and upgrading it with Centerstage XD or StudioTek 130 material (depending on whether we decide to go AT or not).

Rather than build a curved frame myself I figure this would be a better way to go as I can get a Curved screen with a high quality material fro less than $2K

I posted a similar question way back, and so far haven't seen anyone post back in regards to the Lunette. So if you go this route please report back! I'd love to hear how this goes for you. I'm in the same boat where I'm not particularly impressed by the AcousticPro1080 material but thought the frame could be a good platform to make the upgrade off of. Another, possibility is to buy the curved Prismasonic screen frame either directly through Prismasonic, or have AVS order one in for you as they sell the curved frame minus the fabric. Good luck, hope to hear how it works out for you.

................................

Really sorry to hear that Tom. Sucks that you have to go through that over and over again. Hope it all gets sorted out. I have a contact over at Elite, even if you didn't buy from us, i can talk to him to see if there's anything he can do.

I visited their location not too long ago and it since everything is already packed and in stock, i'm assuming that they are not taking the time to inspect the unit here at their CA location.

Benito

Really sorry to hear that Tom. Sucks that you have to go through that over and over again. Hope it all gets sorted out. I have a contact over at Elite, even if you didn't buy from us, i can talk to him to see if there's anything he can do.

I visited their location not too long ago and it since everything is already packed and in stock, i'm assuming that they are not taking the time to inspect the unit here at their CA location.

Benito

............................................................ .......

Thanks Benito, I will work with Visual Apex first to see how they will take care of the situation. :) I wonder if Visual Apex and/or Elite Screens will allow me to mount the screen onto the wall first before making the exchange. I did a search last night on CineGrey and it looks like Elite Screens also made labelling mistakes in the past. It makes me wonder if I actually have a CineWhite screen with the wrong sticker.

Btw, I have dealt with AV Science about 6 years ago with Daniel Hutnicki for one of those now discontinued (?) curved ultra high gain Vutec screens, and I completely forgot about you guys when looking for a new screen. :o

It's time I did an update to my problems with Elite Screens.

It looks like Visual Apex contacted Elite Screens who in turn sent me a replacement. The replacement arrived on 3/24/2011, dropped off in front of my house without a signature. I was terribly surprised Elite Screens would do such a stupid thing.

Next, I received a FedEx return label from Elite Screens via Visual Apex. I cannot deliver the screen to a FedEx location. It just won't fit in my car. So I called them today to schedule a pick up. Turns out the pick up will be around 8am to 6pm. This in unacceptable. I cannot take a day off from work to wait for an undetermined amount of time. When I waited the first time for my screen (the mispackaged one), the FedEx guy arrived around 7pm. When the replacement screen arrived, I expected the FedEx guy to also arrive at night. Instead the FedEx guy arrived in the morning, I believe.

I called Jocelyn from Visual Apex today about my problem who in turn called Elite Screens. She has been dealing with my Elite Screens problems and has been very helpful. Shortly afterward, I received an e-mail from a Charlie Barrentos from Elite Screens addressed to Jocelyn. The best they can do is initiate a 3-attempt pick up for the package, but they cannot give an exact date and time when that will happen.

I went to the FedEx site and saw this:


Ensure trouble-free scheduling for FedEx Ground pickups.
If you’re having trouble scheduling a FedEx Ground pickup, try broadening the time frame. Set Ready Time to the beginning of the day, and Latest Time Available to the end of the day.

This implies I can specify a time of day for the pick up. What a load of BS.

I replied to all recipients of that letter, indicating I cannot take a day off for this mistake that shouldn't have been made in the first place. The best I can do is be at home until the FedEx guy arrives, then drive back to work.

I also suggested I can also leave the package outside for FedEx pickup, but I will need to sign a legally-binding contract stating I am not liable for any damages made to or theft of the package.

Lastly, I suggested I can take unpaid time off as long as Elite Screens reimburse me a day's worth of pay. If the pick up takes place on April, then I must also be reimbursed for retroactive pay increases, should my boss inform me on May. (FYI: we're doing end-of-year performance reviews now. Those who receive a pay increase are notified on May, but the pay is retroactive to April).

George, I get it that you are annoyed, and have been inconvenienced. However it seems to me that you are being a bit of an ass toward people who are trying to help.

This really isn't rocket science to figure out. You can leave it witha willing neighbor for pickup. You can find a friend with a truck, van or SUV to help you carry it to tne dropoff site. You can risk leaving it on the porch. You could even leave it covered on the patio and send them instructions on where to pick it up.

Instead, you seem to be asking someone to 'pay' for their mistake, but the people you are inconveniencing (VA and FedEx) are not the ones who wronged you.

The label on the outer box had the correct model number -- TE84HW2 -- but the label on the back of the screen read TE84HC2. Ugh.

This just happened to me, too. I bought a TE84HW2 brand new off of eBay and the outside of the box said TE84HW2 but opening it revealed TE84HC2 on the unit itself. The material looks pretty white but this is my first Elite screen so I would have no idea which one it really is. My projector is 2000 lumens so I guess it doesn't matter either way. I live 20 minutes from their HQ in Cerritos, CA so I guess if I was really picky I could always try that option.

My real frustration right now is finding the darned vertical limit adjustment switches. I've read the instructions, both on Elite's website and Amazon reviews, but obviously the design has changed since then. There are no yellow/white adjustment switches anywhere. I've looked all up and down inside to no avail. They must be positioned in a way that I can't see them directly, and I don't have a portable mirror to stick up there and check the nooks/crannies at the moment. Granted I've already ceiling-mounted it against the wall so I only have 5" of clearance to peer up at the insides, but even feeling around I can't seem to locate them.

Does anyone know where they are? Or will I need to contact Elite support?

(Edit: Mine's a v1.5 if that helps. I unmounted it from the ceiling to make it easier to search inside but no go.)

This just happened to me, too. I bought a TE84HW2 brand new off of eBay and the outside of the box said TE84HW2 but opening it revealed TE84HC2 on the unit itself. The material looks pretty white but this is my first Elite screen so I would have no idea which one it really is. My projector is 2000 lumens so I guess it doesn't matter either way. I live 20 minutes from their HQ in Cerritos, CA so I guess if I was really picky I could always try that option.

My real frustration right now is finding the darned vertical limit adjustment switches. I've read the instructions, both on Elite's website and Amazon reviews, but obviously the design has changed since then. There are no yellow/white adjustment switches anywhere. I've looked all up and down inside to no avail. They must be positioned in a way that I can't see them directly, and I don't have a portable mirror to stick up there and check the nooks/crannies at the moment. Granted I've already ceiling-mounted it against the wall so I only have 5" of clearance to peer up at the insides, but even feeling around I can't seem to locate them.

Does anyone know where they are? Or will I need to contact Elite support?

(Edit: Mine's a v1.5 if that helps. I unmounted it from the ceiling to make it easier to search inside but no go.)Mine were easy to find.. Look up (assuming it is mounted) inside the slot on the very end kinda on the wall side. They are on the same end as the CAT5 connection and plug. you will need a flashlight because everything is black up there. Ignore the colors. Earlier in this thread, someone reported that they were switched. The screen might have to be down a little to see them or the strap that stops the screen from going up too much might be in the way.

Mine were easy to find.. Look up (assuming it is mounted) inside the slot on the very end kinda on the wall side. They are on the same end as the CAT5 connection and plug. you will need a flashlight because everything is black up there. Ignore the colors. Earlier in this thread, someone reported that they were switched. The screen might have to be down a little to see them or the strap that stops the screen from going up too much might be in the way.

I consider myself pretty ed-ju-ma-cated in these sorts of things, but I'll be an eagle that flies backwards if I can ever find those stupid switches.

I called tech support this morning and they told me basically the same thing you did, but I still can't locate them visually or by feel. I've got one of those insanely bright LED flashlights so I'm searching every crevice on that motor side area without luck. I also felt around above that screen-stopping strap, but nothing. I don't even know how I would jam an alan wrench up there even if I did find them.

I attached some images here of what I'm seeing. Maybe someone can guide me here... both are facing up from the rear of the wall.

I consider myself pretty ed-ju-ma-cated in these sorts of things, but I'll be an eagle that flies backwards if I can ever find those stupid switches.

I called tech support this morning and they told me basically the same thing you did, but I still can't locate them visually or by feel. I've got one of those insanely bright LED flashlights so I'm searching every crevice on that motor side area without luck. I also felt around above that screen-stopping strap, but nothing. I don't even know how I would jam an alan wrench up there even if I did find them.

I attached some images here of what I'm seeing. Maybe someone can guide me here... both are facing up from the rear of the wall.

When I get home tonight, I will compare those pictures to exactly what I see and tell you exactly where they are in comparison to those images. When you do find them, there is no issue of getting an alan wrench to turn them.

When I get home tonight, I will compare those pictures to exactly what I see and tell you exactly where they are in comparison to those images. When you do find them, there is no issue of getting an alan wrench to turn them.

Thanks Psolar, I really appreciate it. :) If you need more detailed or angled pics from me, just let me know. I'll unmount the thing again if I have to. I'm willing to do anything at this point.

Just hoping when I do find them I don't smack myself in the head and wonder how I missed them in the first place.

Actually, never mind now. I got it squared away.

I've got a buddy who's really good and disassembling electronics and the like. He came over last night and we ended up taking apart the whole left side where the screen motor is (at the risk of voiding the warranty).

Apparently whoever assembled this particular screen did a really shoddy job. There should have been 2 screws holding the roll in place, but some kind of cheap adhesive was used instead. So sometime during transport, the roll must have slipped and turned so the vertical limit switches faced directly up, facing the dark side of the housing.

Luckily my buddy had a whole collection of random parts so we found the machine-type screws we needed. He drilled out the rubber part (that was glued) and put a fresh set of screws in there to hold it in place. We put it back together (with the limit switches now facing down) and re-mounted it.

Adjusted the switches as necessary and now it works great. :)

So they were there, just not facing the direction they needed to be. Were it not for my friend's savviness I would definitely have had to return this thing, or go 20 miles up the road to Elite's HQ and demand they give me another one.

Hopefully now I can start trying this thing out. Still have to go purchase a new receiver so I can start using this thing properly.

Your friend should send Elite a bill.

Just received my 106" elite manual screen.....106uch is the model number....I just installed it and it looks great, no waves.....I haven't been able to turn my projector on yet....I'm curious to see how it compares to my wilsonart designer white screen

I have an opportunity to get a Free Elite screen and universal projector mount from a promotion on a Viewsonic Projector. However, I do need to pay the shipping cost, which seems pretty high to me, so its not entirely free. I can get a 100" manual screen for about $75, if I want the mount too, it brings the shipping cost up to $105. Up until now, I have been using a DIY Blackout Cloth screen and its been good enough so far, but im am looking to upgrade. I am planing to eventually install a DIY Acoustically transparent screen. So the question is..... For $75 to a $100 is it worth it to get one of these Elite screens to use in the interim until i can get my AT screen? or would I be better of saving my money for the one i really want even if it is a year or two off.

I bought a TE84HW2 brand new off of eBay and the outside of the box said TE84HW2 but opening it revealed TE84HC2 on the unit itself. The material looks pretty white but this is my first Elite screen so I would have no idea which one it really is. My projector is 2000 lumens so I guess it doesn't matter either way. I live 20 minutes from their HQ in Cerritos, CA so I guess if I was really picky I could always try that option.

I guess I should report that I finally got my screen replaced today. After a few weeks of test runs, I decided that the grey material was too dark, so I got an RMA number, boxed everything back up and went straight to their HQ in Cerritos, CA to do a will-call exchange. I even had the guy cut open the box of the replacement so I could check the label and make sure it was the correct model this time (which it was).

So now I'm the owner of the TE84HW2 like I should have been to begin with! I did have to re-do the vertical limit switches (the version number of this screen was v2.0 and the limit switches [yellow=up,grey=down] were still reversed compared to the instructions on their site.) I played through a few stages of Portal 2, and I can tell that the picture is definitely a bit brighter compared to what I was seeing before. Great stuff...

How did your set up turn out on the Epson and the Elite Screen? I want to go wiht a 150" screen and the same projector.

Hi,

I just got a VMAX 120UWH2 Screen. It drops too far down. I've been reading about a Vertical Limit adjustment and I've searched everywhere and can't seen to find how to adjust it. I looked on the motor side in the slot and see 2 alen screws which seem to hold a clamp. There is nothing else I can see.

I'm using a Harmony 900 Remote to control it and it works great. I thought maybe the remote would control the vertical limit?

Not sure, but any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Rick

Hi,

I just got a VMAX 120UWH2 Screen. It drops too far down. I've been reading about a Vertical Limit adjustment and I've searched everywhere and can't seen to find how to adjust it. I looked on the motor side in the slot and see 2 alen screws which seem to hold a clamp. There is nothing else I can see.

I had the same difficulty locating the switches when I got mine. They are always on the motor side. One is yellow and one is white.

It's possible the internal roll may have dislodged and turned upside down (some models are using cheap glue instead of screws to hold the roll in place). When I first got my screen, the vertical limit switches were facing directly up and into the housing, rendering them out of sight. I had a friend over to help take the screen housing apart, turn the roll so the switches faced downwards, use machine-type screws to hold it in place (there should be holes made for this) and then re-assemble. Had no problem with the vertical limit switches after that.

Try and feel with your finger up inside on the edge of the roll for two holes (cue the TWSS jokes) because they could be facing the wrong direction. If so, you'll need a screwdriver and an hour or two. You could always take it back and have them give you another one, unless you had it shipped, in which case you'll have to decide if an exchange RMA and the inconvenience/cost of return shipping is worth it.

Good luck.

~j

I had the same difficulty locating the switches when I got mine. They are on the motor side. One is yellow and one is white.

It's possible the internal roll may have dislodged and turned upside down (some models are using cheap glue instead of screws to hold the roll in place). When I first got my screen, the vertical limit switches were facing directly up and into the housing, rendering them out of sight. I had a friend over to help take the screen housing apart, turn the roll to face downwards, use machine-type screws to hold it in place (there should be holes made for this) and then re-assemble. Had no problem with the vertical limit switches after that.

Try and feel with your finger up inside on the edge of the roll for two holes (cue the TWSS jokes) because they could be facing the wrong direction. If so, you'll need a screwdriver and an hour or two. You could always take it back and have them give you another one, unless you had it shipped, in which case you'll have to decide if an exchange RMA and the inconvenience/cost of return shipping is worth it.

Good luck.

~j

I found them. They are the Alen Screws. Elites site has PDF's with instructions on how to do it and which ones do what. Pretty cool. I found it after I posted this. But everything worked perfect now it's setup.

Thanks,
Rick

I was hoping I could get some advice on a problem I'm seeing. I have a cinewhite cinetension 2 106" screen. I was playing a game the other day and there was a moment when the screen was all white. I noticed that there were a series of vertical lines symmetrically located in the middle of the screen. I actually thought it was part of the game until I noticed them during panning shots while watching a movie. I'm still not 100% convinced that it wasn't the content, but I'm afraid it might be due to the screen. Could it be over or under tensioned? Has anyone else seen anything like this?

I was hoping I could get some advice on a problem I'm seeing. I have a cinewhite cinetension 2 106" screen. I was playing a game the other day and there was a moment when the screen was all white. I noticed that there were a series of vertical lines symmetrically located in the middle of the screen. I actually thought it was part of the game until I noticed them during panning shots while watching a movie. I'm still not 100% convinced that it wasn't the content, but I'm afraid it might be due to the screen. Could it be over or under tensioned? Has anyone else seen anything like this?

How far apart are the lines? Sometimes if the screen is stored for too long, the material will develop vertical lines that will space out a certain amount depending on the diameter of the tube.

If the lines are not indented into the material, then it's literally in the material and you will need a warranty replacement.

Benito

Thanks for the reply. There are three "lines" that are readily apparent with a white screen. The longest one appears to be in the middle of the screen and is maybe half the height of the screen but centered in the middle. The other two "lines" are to the right and left spaced equidistantly about 6" or so apart. They are not as tall as the middle "line." The shape of each line is kind of like a cat eye or a narrow ellipse with very rough edges.

Using a bright LED flashlight at an extreme angle, I can see vertical lines every twelve inches or so running the full height of the screen. The look almost exactly like marks from a paint roller. I'm not sure whey I never noticed them before. The screen has been installed since Apr and has been down almost the entire time. I purchased the screen from Amazon and I would imagine they don't have a lot of inventory turnover, so it's possible that it spent too long rolled up while on the stock shelf. I guess I should contact Elite?

Definitely contact Elite. Get a new one!!

Benito

I got in contact with Elite and it seems like they are planning to replace the screen. When I spoke with them this afternoon they indicated that they require that I return the screen first and then they will send a replacement- I seem to recall other owners being sent a replacement first before having to send a return. Anybody get a replacement before sending in the defective unit? Any experience with the turn around time? Luckily I'm in California so hopefully shipping shouldn't take too long.

I have a 92" Cinetension 2 screen that I bought new about 2 years from AVScience . I noticed this week that there are two vertical columns of dime size indentations space about 10" part. I've left the screen down over night to see if they would come out on their own - still there. It appears when it is rolled up something is pressing on the screen to cause these. Has anyone else run into this with this model?

Lemistral,
You can always try to play tough with them and let them know that you cannot be inconvenienced with not having a screen for that long. Maybe they will send you an advanced replacement.

kmoore,
Can you provide pics? Would pics show the problem?

Benito

Lemistral,

kmoore,
Can you provide pics? Would pics show the problem?

Benito

I contacted Elite. It's a known problem for that model for the version I have. According to Elite it wasn't common but did occur. Fortunately I'm still under warranty and they will send me a newer version. They say they addressed this problem with later runs.

I am thinking about building a a screen using the 135 in acoustic material. Can anyone tell me if it is made to fit into the screen frames. In other words do the edges have the seam for a bar to go through to snap into the screen like the original? Also will creating this screen work with an epson 8500 ub. Thanks.

Ongoing saga with the cinetension 2. Elite replaced my first screen due to the highly visible vertical indentations in the fabric- mostly observable during pans or in light scenes. Unfortunately, the second Cinetension 2 was apparently damaged in shipment as the weight bar was lower on one side of the screen than the other. It's not just the weigh bar as the white portion of the screen was a little higher on the right side than on the left (~0.5"). With bright side illumination I could visibly see that the screen was not completely flat- again vertical indentations ~12" apart the whole length of the screen. I did not notice it with content, but perhaps I was so put off by the screen being crooked, I didn't bother to check anything else.

Anyway, Elite sent me a third screen and are supposed to have the second screen picked up (although that hasn't happened yet). Interestingly, this screen had a very different serial number and a matte, pebbled black finish on the case instead of the gloss finish on the other two. As soon as I fired it up, I immediately notice very apparent vertical lines on bright content. Looking at the screen closely, I can see not only vertical indentations, but also horizontal ones.

Before I call to complain to Elite, am I being too critical? I was previously projecting onto an off white, plaster wall in a 1939 house that was far from flat and NEVER noticed any surface irregularities. Now whenever I notice a brighter vertical stripe in the image, my blood pressure goes through the roof knowing how much I paid for something that's performing worse than the wall.

Reading back through this thread it seems like there are definitely some who have noticed ezFrames and cinetensions that were not completely flat. is the lack of uniform flatness in the material a tradeoff for the low price of Elite screens? Would I be better off going with an ezFrame than a Cinetension? I have adjusted the drop on my screen- is this causing suboptimal tensioning of the screen surface?

Help! Thanks.

Just wanted to show my love for my new Elite 100" sableframe fixed frame screen.

I went from an 100" focupix electric screen to the elite. the electric screen in less than a year developed waves and it drove me absolutely insane on slow moving scenes when camera is moving sideways.

After much debate between samples with da-lite, carada, and etc I picked the Elite. So far extremely impressed. I compared it back with these samples and the difference is hardly unnoticeable. Glad I spent about $280 than $750 for the carada. I got it from amazon prime. The packaging was great and putting it together was a joke. So easy and no waves!!

I'm using an epson 8500ub and here are some pics taken with my iphone 4. Can't wait to use my Dad's camera for some better pics once he comes and visits me soon, he has a digital slr been dieing to get some good shots with.

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/262427_559291285747_212601152_31667813_731423_n.jpg
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/299932_559291385547_212601152_31667820_6438443_n.jpg
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/302907_559291405507_212601152_31667822_3782691_n.jpg

All the lights on
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/317742_559291465387_212601152_31667825_4126418_n.jpg
Another angle with lights on
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/308257_559291490337_212601152_31667826_520694_n.jpg
All lights off, curtains pulled
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/303852_559291520277_212601152_31667827_1486481_n.jpg

nice pics, esp. considering the ambient light! Is this the 'CineWhite' material? I'm wanting to get the 235 cinema version at 115" diag with the cinewhite.....

nice pics, esp. considering the ambient light! Is this the 'CineWhite' material? I'm wanting to get the 235 cinema version at 115" diag with the cinewhite.....

yes it is cinewhite

Has anyone used their in-cieling mounting kit with electric screen? Pros and cons of it? Can the screen be placed in the mounting kit after construction is done or do I have to hang it prior. What if there is something wrong with screen? Can it be removed without tearing out drywall?

thanks

ezFrame Series?

I am sure a lot of people would say why this guy wants such a cheap screen for 8500UB. Reason being that I keep relocating in 6/12 months and may not always be able to re-use same screen.

I did a lot of research when purchasing 8500UB. I fortunately had white walls, so never bought a screen. But recently moved to an apartment with coffe-colored walls. and white ceiling. So time to purchase a screen. I started doing research for screens, but far too much work, when I only want to spend < $250.

I have not done any detailed calculations. Room is approx 15'x15'. PJ is at 13' approx. 2/3 viewers typically, at approx 10-12'. I just measured 16:9 image size that i typically use for movies. It is 110" wide, so approx 120" diagonal.

Source materials will be - Sony/Panny BD player (70%) and Patriot Box media player (25%). And HDMI-connected laptop at times (5%).

So let me say what I know so far, my preferences and what help I need.
What I come to know...
- Though 8500UB has excellent blacks, Gray screen is still better, as my room can't be completely darkened in daytime.
- Screens come fixed/pull-down/pull-up - I prefer pull down, as PJ is in my living room.
- manual/electric - preferably manual. i don't mind so I save some here. And to keep it simple.
- tensioned/non-tensioned - would prefer tensioned, based on creasing/waves issues I am reading.
- white/gray (with specified gain factor) - gray, as my rooms are not completely darkened during daytime (weekend watching).
- Screen size - I would prefer screen to be 120" diag.

Brands - I saw Mustang, Elite and EluneVision within my price range of $250.

Question is, which Elite screen to use that fit my budget? Or any other brands/suggestions please..

I know many experts who would offer to help, may call me ignorant or just plain simple, but i really want simple recommendations... so please consider that..

Everything was going well. I put the screen together, tensioned everything properly, hung it up ... turned on the project and all was right with the world for about 40 seconds. Then reality sets in and I come to the realization that all I really needed tonight was another minor obstacle to this home theater project. Ugh. Oh yeh, ignore the blinds, chair and other nonsense ... it's a work in progress.



Looks like a couple of 'flat' or smoother spots on the material and I can see it in about 15% of the scenes. Kinda looks likek my drywall or painting workmanship :)

Anyway, I'll be calling Elite tomorrow to see what they want to do. Wanted to see if anyone here knew what these spots were. I can see them under ambient light when looking at an extreme angle. I can see it with the projector light when viewed head on and from below the area. If I stand up and look down onto it, it seems to disappear.

Other than the issue with the spots on the screen. The Elite Sableframe looks like it's well crafted. I have nothing else to compare the screen to as I've never had another screen.

Everything was going well. I put the screen together, tensioned everything properly, hung it up ... turned on the project and all was right with the world for about 40 seconds. Then reality sets in and I come to the realization that all I really needed tonight was another minor obstacle to this home theater project. Ugh. Oh yeh, ignore the blinds, chair and other nonsense ... it's a work in progress.



Looks like a couple of 'flat' or smoother spots on the material and I can see it in about 15% of the scenes. Kinda looks likek my drywall or painting workmanship :)

Anyway, I'll be calling Elite tomorrow to see what they want to do. Wanted to see if anyone here knew what these spots were. I can see them under ambient light when looking at an extreme angle. I can see it with the projector light when viewed head on and from below the area. If I stand up and look down onto it, it seems to disappear.

Other than the issue with the spots on the screen. The Elite Sableframe looks like it's well crafted. I have nothing else to compare the screen to as I've never had another screen.

I have the SAME thing just little left of the middle about same size as yours but I just have one. I can see it, wife has not noticed it on bright scenes. Let me know what elite tells you because I was thinking about call as well but I can't see it if i sit up on my couch if I'm being lazy and slouching I can. If I move like half ft left or right it goes away as well. If stand up. You can't see it at all.

Thanks

I have the SAME thing just little left of the middle about same size as yours but I just have one. I can see it, wife has not noticed it on bright scenes. Let me know what elite tells you because I was thinking about call as well but I can't see it if i sit up on my couch if I'm being lazy and slouching I can. If I move like half ft left or right it goes away as well. If stand up. You can't see it at all.

Thanks

I've got the same thing too, but in my case they are diagonal lines that go across the whole screen. I keep meaning to get some pictures of it and start the RMA process with Elite, but haven't had the time yet.

From what I've heard in the past, they're pretty good about replacing the screen for things like this.

It's been a while, but Elite gave me no issues at all about replacing a screen under warranty.

Extreme newbie to screens here, and have just started my research, but I seem to be drawn to the Elite Cinetension acoustic series (TE120hw2-a1080).

I currently have a theater using a 65" DLP, and instead of going up to a Mitsubishi laservue 75", which is the max that would fit into my custom built-in woodworking, I would like to put a drop down screen that would mount at the ceiling in front of the existing equipment. My center channel would be blocked, so I need an acoustic perforated screen.

Biggest question... Is this the right screen for me based on my above needs? Any other recommendations? I also want to have a 3D projector, so I need to make sure the perforated screen does not impact 3D viewing at all.

Thanks for any advice!!!

My screen is not elite =(

just mounted my 120" Elite Sable screen. To be honest is was a pain in the arse. I am not sure it its because part of my wall way not have been straight or just the bracket system isnt the greatest. In concept its a great idea but in actuality it can be painful.

I was able to get one side mounted but could never get the second one. Didnt matter which side is started on 1st I could never get the second to hook. I had to add some thin aluminum pieces behind one of the brackets so that the gap between the wall and the bracket was larger. After doing so I was able to mount it. Again not sure if it was my wall or the frame or both that caused this.

Also when i connected the screen material i noticed dimples all along one side of the screen material. It was about 4 inches wide and went the entire length of the screen. Luckily after stretching the material and mounting it I dont notice them any more. Hopefully they dont reappear.

Overall tho I am happy with the screen especially for the price i paid for it off of Amazon. I got it for around $330 so I guess I cant complain at all.

with 2 monoprice 7604 speakers. Haven't installed a center yet nor have I done proper curtains nor painted/treated the ceiling with dark paint or fabric. It's a work in progress but so far so good.

Screen is 26" off the floor. 17' seating distance and similar throw.

I got my 92" CineTension2 screen today. I must say, the packaging was IMPRESSIVE (simple, but impressive)! It was double boxed, had foam padding on both ends + foam supports the length of the screen. All the packaging was just fine - no holes, or anything else from shipping.

I've got the 2 holes drilled in the ceiling ready to put up the mounting brackets, but sadly I can't do that until I can buy 2 bolts tomorrow. I can't wait to get it installed, and drop it down!

I recently installed my M92UWH (92" manual), and it has a few imperfections I'd like some advice on. I haven't gotten the projector yet, so I can't yet tell if any of these will be visible to me under normal viewing conditions.

The imperfections:

The left side of the screen is 1/8" lower than the right. Weight bar is also lower on the left, and it does not retract as high as the right side.
The casing is twisted along its length. I suspect this is the cause for the left side being lower.
There is an "outdent" at the bottom of the material, about 1/3rd from the left side. Basically the material isn't flat there, as if there's too much of it, but it's not a "wave". Looks more like a bubble. Pretty visible in full light, but not very large; about 4" wide by 7" high.
There are two parallel almost-vertical lines (about 1/2" apart) at the top-middle of the screen. They are most visible on the black part when looking from the side. They do extend into the white portion about 6", but aren't readily visible there from a few feet away. They look as if the material rubbed against something at some point, leaving marks.


First question is whether any of those issues are likely fixable. For instance, can the casing be twisted back to straight? Or is the some kind of tension adjustment to try and equalize the left and right sides?

Second question is how serious these issues are in the grand scheme of things. If I were to get a replacement, would it likely be better or worse than what I already have?

Thanks in advance for any info,
-- Dave

I've been a big fan of screen goo paint and have had excellent results with that, but I missed having a big screen. I just picked up a 120" manual Elite screen from amazon to play around with, and so far it's a really nice screen for the money. Shipping cost was very high elsewhere, but with free two day shipping (Amazon Prime) it saved me a ton of money. I fired up Batman Begins on my Mitsubishi 4900/oppo 93 and the image was very nice. Would I rather have a 120" screen goo screen? yep...but not enough wall. So in the meantime this one will work just fine.

I agree with those who mentioned the packing. Mine was shipped via FedEx and the screen was very well supported with the foam inserts. I'll probably upgrade to something nicer down the road, but for now this is a more than acceptable interim screen.

I have an 84" EZ Frame with the High Contrast Grey surface. It's not as nice as say a Da-Lite or a VuTec screen, but for the money you can't beat it. Very easy to assemble and a breeze to install.

Has anyone seen this new "4K" material from Elite Screens? Looks like a much tighter weave than their acousticpro1080 material and the weave is on an angle to reduce moire, which has been reported by some folks in the past on elite acousticpro1080 screens.

http://www.elitescreens.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=1256&catid=7&Itemid=23&lang=en

Anyone know where I can purchase a screen with this material?

Anyone used an Elite screen with a 3D projector?

Anyone tried a curved screen with a 3D projector?

Just bought a Epson 3010 and I am now screen hunting.

i am looking to buy a Elite screen but i dont know what kind i shall buy? i am thinkng about buying hd33 or h5360 projector.

Well, I just got my Elite Screen 92" Sable in yesterday ( $240 @ amazon and here's the crazy thing. It was really REALLY easy to put together. I was a bit doubtful based on all of the negative reviews of how it was thumb-numbing to put together. In all honesty, it doesn't take much effort at all, besides a little stretching of the screen and then easily clipping into place. I had it put together in about an hour.

Also, the packaging was ridiculously good! Everything was packed in and secured like military grade hardware. They even used PVC tubing to protect the screen..crazy.

http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/9582/38152124834064979071634.jpg

**Just got finished mounting it over a 2x4 I mounted to the studs. I did this because we have an access panel behind the wall for storage, and the framing is about an inch of depth from the wall. Everything worked out like a charm, although the strict measurements to get it leveled took a bit of 'triple-checking'.

http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/972/pc301648.jpg

Now, it's time to watch something GOOOOD!!!! It's my first time setting up my Epson 8350 to this screen. :)

Well my vmax120 won't retract anymore..... Anyone know where the fuse is so I don't have to call tech support just to try that?

I have read that it is usually the circuit board though..... Only 10 months old.....

Charlie~

Guys,

Thx for your input, and believe me I have tried everything you have recommended. It is definitely not the projector, If you look at the screen from the side with the projector off, you can see the spot and it is dark (see pic below, it is acutally from my first screen and the spot was a little bigger), and no that is not a dirt stain cuz it looks like a dirty spot that would just wipe off. When the projector is on, the spot is much lighter than the rest of the screen. It is not ambient light and there is nothing that could reflect onto screen. I shot the image on the wall with screen out of the way and there is no spot. I took the screen material off and put it on the other way and the spot just moves to the other side of the coke bottle, so it is in the screen material. I talked to Elite and they think it's a bad "roll" of production so they are sending me another piece of material. Their screen material is marked with a serial # indicating which "roll" of production it came from. My first roll and second roll both had different serial #'s so that means both of them were bad, so who's to say the third roll won't have a spot on it.
Not sure what I'm going to do if it has one too.

I am having the exact same issue with my replacement screen from Elite. My first screen was cine grey and had 1" spaced verticle lines that were visible in lighter colored content. Very noticible, sent it back and got a cine white screen with a spot just like yours. See this pic.

How did yours turn out?

I am having the exact same issue with my replacement screen from Elite. My first screen was cine grey and had 1" spaced verticle lines that were visible in lighter colored content. Very noticible, sent it back and got a cine white screen with a spot just like yours. See this pic.

How did yours turn out?

i have the same exact spot in same exact place on mine. I haven't bothered calling yet. I posted in this thread page or 2 back about it but I still haven't called them. Only time I see that spot is if I'm slouching really bad.

Could someone who has bought a Cinetension2 recently tell me what the max top masking border is? There seems to be conflicting info on the web and Elite's site (and their sales reps just to seem to read from the publicly available guides that I've noticed several errors and inconsistencies within). I know the original Cinetension had an 18" drop. I'm hoping the Cinetension2 has something similar (I need at least 12") and not the advertised 6" (which I find bizarre that the Cinetension2 would throw away one of the features of the original series).

Thanks

Hi, I am new to avs forums so be patient..I had a Mitsubishi projector that worked fine until a lamp exploded..cost to repair I felt was going to be more than purchasing a new projector...bought a Optoma HD 66 and it has no trigger switch for my electric screen..I have a Elite electric 120" screen and I would like to have this as it comes down when turned on and retracts when shut off with my Logitech Harmony remote..any suggestions??

jim

I just put up an Elite Electric 125. It went down okay, but when I tried putting it up, when the screen got to the top, the motor kept on turning and i had to shut it off. Has anyone else had this problem? It keeps doing it everytime.
Also I cannot get my screen to work with my Harmony remote. Any help on either of those topics would be appreciated. Thanks

I am no expert on this but I did have a similar problem and it stripped the motor shaft or something like that so I would be carefull with that..I would think it has nothing to do with your remote because the screen should shut down when it reaches end of travel..seems like all the experts are taking vactation because I can't figure out how to get my screen to work with my remote without having to independently put it up and down..I had a trigger on my old projector and my new one does not have the trigger and my receiver does not have a 12 volt trigger either..can anyone help an old man with this??

regards
jim

What the difference between the Spectrum and VMAX2. Also would having any speakers behind the screen be ok. For sure the center would have to be unless I put it on the floor which is not something I want to do.

Does anyone know if you can use the EZframe screen material with a Sable frame? Thanks

Does anyone know if you can use the EZframe screen material with a Sable frame? Thanks

I am pretty sure its the same material so yes you should be able too. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

What does it take to get an inquiry callback or warranty RMA response from ES?

I've tried to contact them through both avenues now, no response after days.

All I need is a replacement a missing bottom rod endcap for a VMAX2 I bought over the holidays. Do they really want me to wind up shipping this thing back to B&H over a $1.50 piece of plastic?

I swear, buying a lot of gear at once is a good way to lose your faith in the state of customer service in the AV world, across the board. Lately every invoice has been an invitation to the RMA awards....

After this thread I'm afraid to check and see if the roll is facing the right way, and if there's glue where there should be screws.... :(

UPDATE: EliteScreens fedexed me a replacement without ever responding to my inquiries.

A- on responsiveness, D- on communication. Heh.

Can anyone with either a Sable or an EZFrame comment on whether or not you can see a lot of "sparkly" texture to the screen on bright scenes? I've heard that this may be an issue with Elite screens and I want to make sure it's actually something to be concerned about. I am going to be using a very bright 2800 lumen projector so I suspect if there is a problem, the bright projector could make things worse. Thanks!

Can anyone with either a Sable or an EZFrame comment on whether or not you can see a lot of "sparkly" texture to the screen on bright scenes? I've heard that this may be an issue with Elite screens and I want to make sure it's actually something to be concerned about. I am going to be using a very bright 2800 lumen projector so I suspect if there is a problem, the bright projector could make things worse. Thanks!

only on really bright white scenes. other than that never. can't beat it for the price imo.

only on really bright white scenes. other than that never. can't beat it for the price imo.

I have that too on my acoustic pro 2 screen, but only in a small (approx 3 sq in area) and only at a particular viewing angle. Not a big issue for me, but I also have "moire" effect with this screen and my 8350 projector. ES is going to send me one of the new 4k screens this spring which they say will remedy the moire issue with this AT screen.

Just received my elite spectrum 100h. i read about the programmable vertical adjustment switch but cant find it. anyone can help?

I read all the posts in this discussion, but still do not know which type of screen to choose. Actually I do not know whether to choose electric or manual type. I have about 1500 $. I read here that almost all of you have some problems with all types of screens. It should be 120" diag. Can someone please help?. thank you.

I read all the posts in this discussion, but still do not know which type of screen to choose. Actually I do not know whether to choose electric or manual type. I have about 1500 $. I read here that almost all of you have some problems with all types of screens. It should be 120" diag. Can someone please help?. thank you.

Do you need an acoustically transparent screen? If so and you have 1500 to spend on a screen, I would take a look at a center stage xd from seymour-av over elite.

Do you need an acoustically transparent screen? If so and you have 1500 to spend on a screen, I would take a look at a center stage xd from seymour-av over elite.

I see, problem is that there is no dealer for this brand in our country (Czech Republic). Thank you

[QUOTE=mangamonster;21279624]Well, I just got my Elite Screen 92" Sable in yesterday ( $240 @ amazon and here's the crazy thing. It was really REALLY easy to put together. I was a bit doubtful based on all of the negative reviews of how it was thumb-numbing to put together. In all honesty, it doesn't take much effort at all, besides a little stretching of the screen and then easily clipping into place. I had it put together in about an hour.


Mangamonster you inspired me to get that 92 fixed frame over some cheaper manual pull downs I was looking at. I got mine from amazon too, can't wait. This will be my first projector setup

Does anyone from Elite post here when people are looking for a screen? I called for some technical info, and I got absolutely no answer to my question, I was told to go to their special order page, of which the model I want was not listed in their form page, and I'm not really looking to special order anything, I want a screen that's already made buy them, but a different material, with no real time line, but I have to go through all this effort, to get to a dead end. :mad:
No wonder I see so many buying from Amazon and others rather deal with them directly.....

Hi, so what would you recommend me to choose ?.

1) manual SRM - as a cheap screen and in case of some waves to buy new one
2) tension series - as a much more expensive but supposed to be without any waves ...

thx

I just ordered an R120H1 ezFrame screen to replace my manual Elite M135XWH2. I had the 135" manual for almost 2 years and not one issue or wave. I moved to a new apartment and have the space for a fixed screen, plus over time I have learned 135" is just too crazy at the 12-14ft seating distance. I'll update on the results.

To the person asking about manual vs tension. Grab a manual, in my opinion waves are possible but typically only if the screen is abused, left pulled out for days/weeks, or the temperature tends to fluctuate. That is based on my own personal research and may differ from others opinions.

To the person asking about manual vs tension. Grab a manual, in my opinion waves are possible but typically only if the screen is abused, left pulled out for days/weeks, or the temperature tends to fluctuate. That is based on my own personal research and may differ from others opinions.

Ok , and what series would you take from manual s. ?

Manual
Manual SRM
Manual SRM Pro

Thank you,

I just ordered an R120H1 ezFrame screen to replace my manual Elite M135XWH2. I had the 135" manual for almost 2 years and not one issue or wave. I moved to a new apartment and have the space for a fixed screen, plus over time I have learned 135" is just too crazy at the 12-14ft seating distance. I'll update on the results.

To the person asking about manual vs tension. Grab a manual, in my opinion waves are possible but typically only if the screen is abused, left pulled out for days/weeks, or the temperature tends to fluctuate. That is based on my own personal research and may differ from others opinions.

Well, I got my R120H1 EzFrame nice and quick(Thank you Amazon). So I ran into an issue with installation, the joints don't align with the screw holes in the frame. I have gotten some to align but the center joints align on half the holes but not the other half. Anybody with EzFrame experience know if I am missing anything?

Almost all reviews on sites like Amazon are mostly all positive, except for a few like me who have install issues. I'm guessing that the machining was off and I was just unlucky. Probably going to exchange it but I'll watch the forum and also contact Elite Screens.

Ok , and what series would you take from manual s. ?

Manual
Manual SRM
Manual SRM Pro

Thank you,

For me personally, I went with manual. My reasoning was it was my first screen so given all the variables in designs out there, $200 for a "practice screen", seemed like a good idea and it was. Gave me an idea of what I wanted my final screen to be(fixed.) I know the SRM has a slow roll up, if you care about that it might be worth it. SRM Pro has fiberglass? I don't know offhand what the advantage that gives, it sounds like glass bead screen but the gain is only 1.1. Elite says it cleans very well............ok.

For me personally, I went with manual. My reasoning was it was my first screen so given all the variables in designs out there, $200 for a "practice screen", seemed like a good idea and it was. Gave me an idea of what I wanted my final screen to be(fixed.) I know the SRM has a slow roll up, if you care about that it might be worth it. SRM Pro has fiberglass? I don't know offhand what the advantage that gives, it sounds like glass bead screen but the gain is only 1.1. Elite says it cleans very well............ok.

so finally i have ordered manual SRM Pro - the price is not so much higher then manual.

Thank you for your suggestion.

I just hung my Elite Screens Sable 92" frame today.. I'm very happy with the quality of the screen and frame. Much better than my textured wall, I'll tell you that much :) But the guy helping me who was in construction said the drywall anchors included were weak and not good.. so we went to home depot and got stronger 75 pound drywall anchors to use. That was the only issue. Here's a pic:
http://i.imgur.com/z3m7Nl.jpg
full size http://i.imgur.com/z3m7N.jpg
Taken during the day with the curtains drawn in dynamic mode on epson 8350

Quick update, I sent back my Elite Ezframe grey. The loss of whites just didn't end up being worth it. Just installed a cinewhite Ezframe and couldn't be happier. Going from a manual to fixed frame makes it much more easy to just sit down and kick on a movie or game.

The only issue is this screen came with some kind of residue on sections of it. Its not visible during playback, only when light hits it directly. Anyone get an Elite screen with this on it?

Nice pic, as always the Epson doesn't disappoint and neither does the Elite Screen.

Just posted questions about an Elite screen in the thread here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1393225

Any input and feedback are appreciated (want to know if the Osprey is still made and any consensus on it. Also, best vendors if the feedback is good.)

Does anyone have a 135" ezframe in cinegrey? I wanted to see how the screen material itself is and whether or not you see any waves or imperfections in the material itself. I have a monoprice 133" fixed screen and I'm not happy with it at all. Inadequate tension and bad material manufacturing has lead to waves that I can easily see in a lot of different types of content. I'm thinking about going with an Elite but want to make sure the tension on the larger sizes is adequate. Thanks!

Has anyone seen this new "4K" material from Elite Screens? Looks like a much tighter weave than their acousticpro1080 material and the weave is on an angle to reduce moire, which has been reported by some folks in the past on elite acousticpro1080 screens.

http://www.elitescreens.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=1256&catid=7&Itemid=23&lang=en

Anyone know where I can purchase a screen with this material?

I have a sample of it arriving any day to check out. Looks promising.

Looking for some advice on an Elite screen for my first projector, a newly purchased Optoma HD33.

Right now I am just projecting on my wall (not even white, it's light beige!!) so I could get a feel for placement and size.

I have decided that 106" or 110" (16x9) will be a good size and I want to have a fixed screen. The projector does support 3D but since I am using active glasses, I shouldn't have to worry about polarization as I am able to watch 3D just fine off of the wall :rolleyes:

What Elite screen would you recommend??
I can control light in the room fairly well during the day (dim ambient light, but no direct light on the viewing surface) and at night, well it is good and dark :)

In terms of cost, I don't want to break the piggy bank but if it makes a difference in picture quality (better blacks, color, etc...) I would be willing to throw piggy against the wall :D

Anyone tried ordering just the Elite screen material from B&H stores?
I'm wondering how's the packaging of the rolled up screen material and it's quality.

Any thoughts?

How are people liking the Cinetension2? Specifically curious for those who've had it a decent amount of time. In the hunt for a ceiling-mounted electric screen (tab-tensioned) and this one seems to fit the budget, but the waves spook me. Thanks!

How are people liking the Cinetension2? Specifically curious for those who've had it a decent amount of time. In the hunt for a ceiling-mounted electric screen (tab-tensioned) and this one seems to fit the budget, but the waves spook me. Thanks!

I've had the Cinetension 2 (120") for 2 years mounted in-ceiling. Recently, the motor stopped working and Elite told me that the fuse blew. Unfortunately, the fuse can't be accessed without removing the screen from the ceiling, so this is a major construction job.

I have also have had the problem with waves in the screen. They have instructions for how to fix them, but they are pretty involved and I could never get them to work. Forget having them fixed under warranty--Elite has no field service so you would need to ship the screen back to them (very expensive).

Needless to say, I wouldn't recommend this screen for in-ceiling use.

I've had the Cinetension 2 (120") for 2 years mounted in-ceiling. Recently, the motor stopped working and Elite told me that the fuse blew. Unfortunately, the fuse can't be accessed without removing the screen from the ceiling, so this is a major construction job.

I have also have had the problem with waves in the screen. They have instructions for how to fix them, but they are pretty involved and I could never get them to work. Forget having them fixed under warranty--Elite has no field service so you would need to ship the screen back to them (very expensive).

Needless to say, I wouldn't recommend this screen for in-ceiling use.

OMG! I have my Cinetension 2 (120'') recessed in a drop ceiling. Now I'm always going to worry about it blowing a fuse every time a use it.

Wanted to know how to replace a lenticular screen on the rear projection tv without going through the back.