Also if you need to get the extension pole for your Chief mount, try to get a fixed length one and not the adjustable ones. They are alot more expensive. Good luck.

Pulled the trigger on the AE900. Should receive this next weekend. The deal was too good to pass up. Demo unit coming from a Panasonic rep with about 25 hrs. on it. Dollars paid: $ three figures. No brainer and Sweeeeeeet deal! Need recommended ceiling mount or I can shelf mount with the unit sitting about 18" above the screen. Can the lens shift allow for this? If not, any recommended ceiling mounts would be appreciated.
With lense shifted all the way down, the top of the screen will be in line with the middle of the lense. Prefereable you want to get the lense as close to the center of the screen as you can, so as to use as little lense shift as possible. So a ceilling mount with an extender bar would probably be your best bet.

Overscan off is the only way to go. The picture is MUCH clearer. I am using my HR10-250 (HD Tivo) for HDTV using the HDMI input with overscan off. I am using my HTPC for DVDs using the PC (VGA) input. For some reason, I can't find the overscan on/off in the menu. Does anyone know where it is?
MENU -> PICTURE -> OVERSCAN is ONLY available with HDMI or Component signals and not with VGA (see PAGE 40 in the English Manual).
http://panasonic.co.jp/pavc/global/projector/manual/PT-AE900/PT-AE900E_EN.pdf
Not sure, but I think that the VGA input is not cropped.
Fernando

MENU -> PICTURE -> OVERSCAN is ONLY available with HDMI or Component signals and not with VGA (see PAGE 40 in the English Manual).
http://panasonic.co.jp/pavc/global/projector/manual/PT-AE900/PT-AE900E_EN.pdf
Not sure, but I think that the VGA input is not cropped.
Fernando

Got a question about overscan on input type.

I can turn overscan on and off on my cablebox that is sending info via component BUT I cannot touch overscan for my DVD player that is using the other component input on the PJ. Is this because I have the DVD player set to put out interlaced (which mean analog?) and the cablebox is putting out a digital signal?

It is a nice step up from my Optoma H30.
I have had an H30 which has worked great for me for almost two years now. I have been getting upgrade fever as of late and think the 900 would be a really nice step up. I have followed this thread pretty closely over the last several months. My room layout presents a challenge in that there is no way I could get the 900 ceiling mounted inside the vertical limits of the screen. The offset on my H30 works perfectly so that the lens height is 10" above the top of the screen at a throw distance of ~10'. This makes it pretty much a deal breaker for me and I'll have to wait for something else.

I sure wish that when Panny designs the AE1100U (or whatever it will be) they would consider making a unit with similar geometry to what they have in the 700-900 models and then also consider something like a AE1100UO or something like that that has some vertical offset like the DLP's have. I'd be all over that. Rear shelf mounting or ceiling mounting within vertical extents of the screen doesn't work for everyone.

OK everyone- enjoy those projectors! :)

"With lense shifted all the way down, the top of the screen will be in line with the middle of the lense. "

With the lens shift all the way down the edge of the image is 13% below the middle of the lens. With it at this extreme there is no horizontal shift available though. See page 21 in the manual.

Shawn

Stupid proprietary power cord. Why can the entire free world use a standard cord and Panasonic insist on that three pronged special? There can be NO reason other than if you lose it, Panasonic might get a few sales of power cords. The beancounters probably figured on 2.3459012 % of owners will lose them and have to get replacements.




I'm pretty sure the AE900 uses a standard power cord. Look at Monoprice.com for a three prong laptop power cord.

I'm pretty sure the AE900 uses a standard power cord. Look at Monoprice.com for a three prong laptop power cord.

No, unfortunately, this Panny uses a proprietary grounded power cord; which is even harder to find than their ungrounded version. This is one of the few (but important to some) problems I have with this projector (I think the Sanyo Z4 has the same unfortunate design).

I needed a 15' "universal grounded" or typical PC power cord for my X1 and it was easy to find. The only way one can get the AE900 connected is with a less desirable (IMHO) extension cord or dubious splice job. :(

So I've finally got my PJ back from Heartland.

I had posted previously that I had three PJs with issues (color uniformity, ghosting) and basically I gave up swapping them out with the dealer because I was getting nowhere.

Kept the third one with color uniformity problems (blue taint on left, red taint on the right) and the iris noise related to bright scenes.

I sent the PJ to the Heartland service facility where they immediately acknowledged the problems but didn't know the fix for the color uniformity. After going back and forth with the factory, including having the problem discussed at an on-site meeting with factory support reps, they decided to replace rather than repair the PJ.

This all took longer than I would have liked but the PJ looks great. This unit has good color uniformity and the iris noise is less (but still there) and no problem with ghosting.

The customer service people at Heartland were great. They were responsive and every time I called I spoke to a real live person.

Heartland has a great reputation for Panasonic service. I previously owned a Sanyo with 3 year warranty the difference and I realized the warranty was only as good as the company that does the service. There was a firmware update for the AE700 and they got it back in a few days. That is the reason why I now own a AE900 rather than a Z4. When I owned a Z2 and had problems it was nearly impossible to reach Sanyo and they get them to acknowledge problems and honor the warranty was nearly impossible. Good job Heartland and Panasonic

I sent the PJ to the Heartland service facility where they immediately acknowledged the problems but didn't know the fix for the color uniformity. After going back and forth with the factory, including having the problem discussed at an on-site meeting with factory support reps, they decided to replace rather than repair the PJ.

The customer service people at Heartland were great. They were responsive and every time I called I spoke to a real live person.

Hopefully I don't need to send my 900 in, but where is Heartland? IF I have a problem, can I send my 900 there or does Heartland just cover a region of the US for Panasonic?

I have a question for everyone regarding the black level of the projector.

Currently we're projecting a 130" diagonal image with the projector. I still find that on a full black field, the screen is rather bright.
WIth those runing smaller screens, such as 100" or less, how are you finding your absolute black level?

In terms of absolute black levels, I find that the 900 may infact, due to its higher brithness, have a worse absolute black level than the 600 ansi lumen, 200:1 contrast ratio projector before it. (The shadow detail is subtantially better, obviously, I'm only taking about absolute black levels.

Hopefully I don't need to send my 900 in, but where is Heartland? IF I have a problem, can I send my 900 there or does Heartland just cover a region of the US for Panasonic?

Heartland Services is in Overland Park, Kansas. According to Panasonic support Heartland is THE place for an AU900 with the most complete inventory of parts and service info. While the PJ has been available for several months it is considered very much a new product and apparently there is limited expertise among the other service facilities

hey guys, what's the early lamp failure rate on the ae900? i read there are some issues with it.

How big is the problem? if i buy a new ae900 what are the chances it will fail below 750hrs?

coming from the mt700 disaster camp, i am very wary of this. Any feedback/experience is appreciated, thank you.

Hi guys !
Does anybody know the issue of having permanent black vertical bars on the left side of the screen after watching 4:3 material for some hours ?

Because I have those bars and some Sanyo Z4 - owners do have problems like mine, too according to forum-threads in a german forum ...

Is there any certain type of extension cord that should be used with the Panasonic AE 900. About 20'

Hi guys !
Does anybody know the issue of having permanent black vertical bars on the left side of the screen after watching 4:3 material for some hours ?

Because I have those bars and some Sanyo Z4 - owners do have problems like mine, too according to forum-threads in a german forum ...


Black bars on LCD displays disappear over time as long as you stop feeding the LCD the image that's causing the bars. It could take a couple of weeks but they will dissappear.

Elio

Hi guys !
Does anybody know the issue of having permanent black vertical bars on the left side of the screen after watching 4:3 material for some hours ?

Because I have those bars and some Sanyo Z4 - owners do have problems like mine, too according to forum-threads in a german forum ...

There is a thread on the 2nd page of this "..PJ under $3500..." forum entitled "LCD burn-in..." where this topic is dicussed. It should help you :)

My lurking days are finally over. I have grabbed the brass ring and made a decision. My choice is the Panny 900. The choice was not an easy one but was made on price, ease of set up, and no rainbows. I will not order a screen at this time but need to plan my theater wiring. After checking out the pj calculator I think that the 900 will only light a 107” screen. If I increase the screen size the calculator indicates I need a higher screen gain. My question is in a completely light controlled environment with dark walls but a white ceiling is the calculator accurate? Is anyone running a larger screen with the 900 in a finished basement environment? I would love to go as large as possible and want to run my speaker wires now so that when the pj arrives I will be able to test it out. Screen size dictates the placement of my three front speakers so I need to nail it down prior to the projector arriving.

These are my dimensions:
Room length = 300 inches or 25 feet
Room width = 185 inches or15 ½ feet
Ceiling height = 87 inches

My other question is about wiring. I will place all my AV components in the stern port corner of the room. I will need an IR repeater (?) at the screen to allow my remotes to function without performing humanly impossible acts. I am clueless about all aspects of these widgets.
1. Where to purchase.
2. Is each component hooked up to it by a wire or are they wireless?
3. How much do they cost?
4. Do I need a special remote?

My components will be
Panny 900
Yamaha RXV 2600
Athena .5 speakers 7.1
Dayton 12” sub
Oppo DVD Player

I was also wondering if it would be worth while to add a VCR to the above list. Could I use it as a cable box to hook up my cable to the projector? I will not watch much if any TV on the PJ to preserve bulb life and also because of the picture quality. I will not be going HD TV at this time but need to wire for it now anyways. I assume all I will need is to run a cable to the component stack.

Next question involves the types of cables I will need. Please let me know if these are correct.

PJ to receiver = hdmi cable
DVD to receiver = dvi /hdmi cable
VCR to receiver = component cable
Future cable box to receiver = hdmi cable
IR Repeater???


Thanks for your input!
Atom

atom12 good luck with new projector i have apx same size room but its my living room with an L shaped couch. i sit apx 17 feet back when it gets crowded some sit apx 12 feet but at side of screen. i originally thought prior to purchasing i was going to get a 106 diag screen . everybody who come over seems to prefer the picture at 126-133 diag. i am only projecting on the wall now and it seems bright enough at this diag. if you use the caculator screen gain is a factor. if screen high gain then you can have a larger diag. if possible try the projector first and decide on screen size. if speaker wiring is issue why don't you leave a coil behind wall to pull out when you decide. as i imagine were only talking 12 inches one way or the other. as far as remotes you can have remotes that work on radio frequency needs no wiring or you can get ir repeater system i got a buffalo one seems to work fine there are threads in remote control part of board do search on buffalo have fun

For those, that like me, may be wondering shipping was 52.00 from Boise ID via FedEx.

I used the original boxes that they were shipped to me in, but they considered them "used" so I put the two Panasonic factory boxes and projector all in a new one- triple boxed. They brought this up when I insured it for the retail panasonic price- that they would not necessarily honor a used box claim.

I know it could ship cheaper with less insurance, but I'm not taking any more chances.

I chose FedEx because that's what Projector People shipped it to me in, so I thought it would be safe.

What a shame! I am still kicking myself over this. 2 months on a projector and it's completely dead.

I am hopeful though, Heartland is a place I have heard nothing but good things about, so although it's gonna cost extra money and time, at least I have the hope that Panasonic and Heartland will stand behind it, even if the dealer won't.

I'll post back when I get it returned and let you all know how it worked out.

I have a question for everyone regarding the black level of the projector.

Currently we're projecting a 130" diagonal image with the projector. I still find that on a full black field, the screen is rather bright.
WIth those runing smaller screens, such as 100" or less, how are you finding your absolute black level?

In terms of absolute black levels, I find that the 900 may infact, due to its higher brithness, have a worse absolute black level than the 600 ansi lumen, 200:1 contrast ratio projector before it. (The shadow detail is subtantially better, obviously, I'm only taking about absolute black levels.

With a Da-Lite High Power 52X92 and running in economode. the shadow detail is, as you say, excellent. I was unaware for 30 min into a film that there actually was a projected band above and below...duh! I thought it was just an "unilluminated" portion of the screen. So I A-B'd back and forth with "shutter" during a dark scene. The difference between "pure black" and "projected black" was about like a 10 compared to a 9. It was not objectionable and went completely unnoticed for a weekend of watching. The screen brightness I am sure has something to do with my preception of actual black levels. If you are running with a matte white screen with low foot-lamberts, I could see where "projected black" might look dark gray because your iris in your eye would be wide open. But in my situation, I do not walk out of my "light controlled room" squinting. The screen is plenty bright, even in economode, and due in part to a reduced iris in MY EYE, I enjoy what appears to be very black blacks, although I do not notice them all that much because the color and fine detail in the shadows is so engaging. :D

I am a little jealous of your room size, BTW. My experience with the Panny 900 and Da-Lite High Power is that this little projector could easily image up to 150" diagonal in economode and do 200" in regular mode with proper screen selection, while besting the local movie theater. The clear optics ( F1.9 ) have something to do with it I am sure. I watch a 52x92 image that looks like a very bright cathode ray tube Sony or a Plasma screen. There is a ton of light available. With a high gain screen, it is a bit of a light cannon. Will make quite a difference when the bulb starts to age and I can turn up the gamma and other settings again. Very, very pleased with this fine product

My other question is about wiring. I will place all my AV components in the stern port corner of the room. I will need an IR repeater (?) at the screen to allow my remotes to function without performing humanly impossible acts. I am clueless about all aspects of these widgets.
1. Where to purchase.
2. Is each component hooked up to it by a wire or are they wireless?
3. How much do they cost?
4. Do I need a special remote?

Next question involves the types of cables I will need. Please let me know if these are correct.

PJ to receiver = hdmi cable
DVD to receiver = dvi /hdmi cable
VCR to receiver = component cable
Future cable box to receiver = hdmi cable
IR Repeater???




Atom,

I will be setting up my HT room this week. Are you planning on running cables and speaker wire through the walls/ceiling or outside?

If in wall, I would strongly suggest you install multiple cable types to the PJ even if you don't think you will need them now. HDMI is a given but if you check this and other threads, you will find some sources apparently are better through component or S-Video feeds. If you ever want to hook up a PC to the PJ you will also need to think about VGA or a HDMI switch (to allow you to run DVI to HDMI cable from the video card to the switch and then HDMI to the 900U). Much cheaper and more convenient to run the cable once when punching holes in walls etc, than to constantly reopen, fish cable and re-patch.

I would suggest at minimum running HDMI, component and S-Video just to be safe. If you order the component and S-Video from Monoprice you won't be out much.

Of course if the wires are exposed, you can easily add anything when you actually need it.

Same with speaker wire. If you are running in-wall, I would strongly suggest you wire for 7.1 even if you may not use it now. It doesn't cost too much more for the extra wires and outlets if you are already punching and drilling (it would be almost the exact same work again to later upgrade the wiring from 5.1 to 7.1)

If you are running outside the wall, you can get pretty inexpensive paintable cable channels (check out Wiremold as a company to get an idea about suitability of this) that you can run just above your baseboards and around door frames if you want to hide the wires without pulling up the carpet or removing the baseboards.

I'm sure there are other more experienced readers who can give more suggestions (any a number threads in this forum as well) but this is what I have been able to conclude from my novice research over the past couple of months.

I just got the 900 and love it! I was throwing 20' to a 180" diagonal size with no trouble, but I did end up moving it to 16' and "only" about 144" size. The 900 will let you change the horizontal throw a bit, but not a ton; iou won't be able to put it in a corner and project to the far wall, but it can be off center.

I originally tried both HDMI and Component with my Toshiba DVD; the HDMI looked markedly better. I just bought the Sony 70H DVD player; the Component looks nearly as good as the HDMI (but still not quite). If you should happen to try using an older 480i DVD (as I did when I first got my 900), you'll notice some "chain link" effects because of the interlacing. Progressive scan eliminates it.

Don't panic about the IR reception. I find I can just aim my remote at the screen in front of me; it reflects off the wall and works fine with my 900 above my head, behind me, and a few feet to my right.

Enjoy!

I tried my old 480i Apex machine with my 900AE. It gave me a weird "chain link" effect on flat color fields (faces, animation, etc.). I put my progressive scan machine on, and it looks fantastic. HDMI looks even better.

6S

My lurking days are finally over. I have grabbed the brass ring and made a decision. My choice is the Panny 900. The choice was not an easy one but was made on price, ease of set up, and no rainbows. I will not order a screen at this time but need to plan my theater wiring. After checking out the pj calculator I think that the 900 will only light a 107” screen. If I increase the screen size the calculator indicates I need a higher screen gain. My question is in a completely light controlled environment with dark walls but a white ceiling is the calculator accurate? Is anyone running a larger screen with the 900 in a finished basement environment? I would love to go as large as possible and want to run my speaker wires now so that when the pj arrives I will be able to test it out. Screen size dictates the placement of my three front speakers so I need to nail it down prior to the projector arriving.

These are my dimensions:
Room length = 300 inches or 25 feet
Room width = 185 inches or15 ½ feet
Ceiling height = 87 inches

My other question is about wiring. I will place all my AV components in the stern port corner of the room. I will need an IR repeater (?) at the screen to allow my remotes to function without performing humanly impossible acts. I am clueless about all aspects of these widgets.
1. Where to purchase.
2. Is each component hooked up to it by a wire or are they wireless?
3. How much do they cost?
4. Do I need a special remote?

My components will be
Panny 900
Yamaha RXV 2600
Athena .5 speakers 7.1
Dayton 12” sub
Oppo DVD Player

I was also wondering if it would be worth while to add a VCR to the above list. Could I use it as a cable box to hook up my cable to the projector? I will not watch much if any TV on the PJ to preserve bulb life and also because of the picture quality. I will not be going HD TV at this time but need to wire for it now anyways. I assume all I will need is to run a cable to the component stack.

Next question involves the types of cables I will need. Please let me know if these are correct.

PJ to receiver = hdmi cable
DVD to receiver = dvi /hdmi cable
VCR to receiver = component cable
Future cable box to receiver = hdmi cable
IR Repeater???


Thanks for your input!
Atom

Even if you don't run wire and you have the ability to run flexible plastic conduit this will allow you to run wiring to any of the locations at any time down the road. I personally will be running all my PVC conduit below the concrete and up into the walls with the exception to the overhead conduit to the PJ. With a PVC heater you can make all you 90 degree bends or large swipes with ezzz... Having been an electrician for over 30 years, if you have questions feel free to ask…

I will run a 7.1 set of speaker wires. Because I have a drop ceiling and my component stack is going to be inside a floor to ceiling cabinet future wiring will be a breeze. Any ideas on where I could get a inexpensive cabinet? I will most likely need to customize it to the space, so some cutting and dicing is likely. What do you folks know about the mx850 remote? Do I need anything else to make it work?

What is the bottom dollar for this projector these days?

With a Da-Lite High Power 52X92 and running in economode. the shadow detail is, as you say, excellent. I was unaware for 30 min into a film that there actually was a projected band above and below...duh! I thought it was just an "unilluminated" portion of the screen. So I A-B'd back and forth with "shutter" during a dark scene. The difference between "pure black" and "projected black" was about like a 10 compared to a 9. It was not objectionable and went completely unnoticed for a weekend of watching. The screen brightness I am sure has something to do with my preception of actual black levels. If you are running with a matte white screen with low foot-lamberts, I could see where "projected black" might look dark gray because your iris in your eye would be wide open. But in my situation, I do not walk out of my "light controlled room" squinting. The screen is plenty bright, even in economode, and due in part to a reduced iris in MY EYE, I enjoy what appears to be very black blacks, although I do not notice them all that much because the color and fine detail in the shadows is so engaging. :D

I'm wondering how this is possible to be honest. Maybe there is something wrong with my projector. When the projector is shuttered, the "black level" is clearly visible. To say it matches even closely to the black border around the screen would be a lie in my case. It still looks "illuminated". Unless your screen is significantly lower gain (I'm not familiar with the features of the screen you have), it would seem that you would in fact have a higher black level than me, given the smaller screen size.

When I zoom my projector to approximate the size of what you have, the "shuttered" black is highly luminous.

Is there any way to turn off the internal scaler and/or deinterlacer on the Panny 900? It seems to have a problem with deinterlaced PAL sources (576p) (= PAL DVDs) coming from the Xbox 360. It shows blackish horizontal bands going up and down the screen. For more pictures and info, see this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=652339

What is the bottom dollar for this projector these days?


I think the best price right now is $1525 after the rebate.

What is the bottom dollar for this projector these days?

I have seen lower than $1,500. BUT, since we can't talk about the exact price and I spent 2 months looking for one that comes with a warranty, I would HIGHLY advise you to go to the top of this page and click on all the links to the different vendors. The cheapest price I have found is up there. It will take you no more than 5 minutes to find out yourself who has the cheapest price for this wonderful PJ (unless you are too lazy to scroll to the top of this page when you are done reading this :cool: )

I'm wondering how this is possible to be honest. Maybe there is something wrong with my projector. When the projector is shuttered, the "black level" is clearly visible. To say it matches even closely to the black border around the screen would be a lie in my case. It still looks "illuminated". Unless your screen is significantly lower gain (I'm not familiar with the features of the screen you have), it would seem that you would in fact have a higher black level than me, given the smaller screen size.

When I zoom my projector to approximate the size of what you have, the "shuttered" black is highly luminous.

I'll have to "do over" with a careful look at black areas. I assumed, perhaps incorrectly, that when I hit "shutter" and the screen went dark, that all available light was blocked. Comparing the screen when shuttered with the bands (not the black cloth) above and below when not shuttered and there was a displayed image, the difference didn't look that great. Obviously, it may have something to do with the iris of my eye reacting to available light in the image, skewing my impression.

My screen has a gain of 2.8 and some say its more like 3.3 at the center of the cone. It is quite bright which probably explains why I find the black to look, well, rather black. When my eye's iris closes due to available light, it makes sense that I would perceive any darker area as being much more dark then it actually is. At the same time, it would make sense that someone with a less bright screen might not perceive black as being quite so black because their iris would be open and allow more light into their eyes.

I just topped off my all-new theater with the icing... a Panny AE900!!!
WOW!!!! This is even better than I had expected! What a great projector! I know it is easier for a novice to be satisfied, but having been used to an older Infocus LP340, the improvements are UNBELIEVABLE :) The latest Star Wars looked incredible, with much better blacks and detail than I expected. The lack of screen door and VB, along with vivid colors and "smooth screen" make it a joy to watch. It is shelf mounted on the back wall 20' back with seating at 11' and 16' on a 92" Dalite Perm-Wall. I've done no calibration yet(but will tonight) and am temporarily using "expanded black" on my DVD player. Thanks to all those Forum Warriors who spend so much time (and lamp life) to help us find the best fit for our needs. ;) I truly couldn't be happier :) :) :)

It will take you no more than 5 minutes to find out yourself who has the cheapest price for this wonderful PJ (unless you are too lazy to scroll to the top of this page when you are done reading this :cool: )


It's like you know me already...

I checked all the above links and they are all over $1500. Thanks giving me some direction though.

I'll have to "do over" with a careful look at black areas. I assumed, perhaps incorrectly, that when I hit "shutter" and the screen went dark, that all available light was blocked. Comparing the screen when shuttered with the bands (not the black cloth) above and below when not shuttered and there was a displayed image, the difference didn't look that great. Obviously, it may have something to do with the iris of my eye reacting to available light in the image, skewing my impression.

My screen has a gain of 2.8 and some say its more like 3.3 at the center of the cone. It is quite bright which probably explains why I find the black to look, well, rather black. When my eye's iris closes due to available light, it makes sense that I would perceive any darker area as being much more dark then it actually is. At the same time, it would make sense that someone with a less bright screen might not perceive black as being quite so black because their iris would be open and allow more light into their eyes.

I'm basically looking for other's perceptions on how much light this thing puts out on an all black field. I assume shutter is an all black field, and my observation is that the projector still puts out a lot of light when it's supposed to be black. It's easy to tell, don't look at the screen, look at the lens (ON AN ALL BLACK FIELD ONLY...or else you will SERIOUSLY hurt your eyes). While contrast ratios have significantly advanced, on many of the newer projectors I'm still finding the black level "floor" to be quite high.

I checked all the above links and they are all over $1500. Thanks giving me some direction though.

Very true, they all start above the $1500 price I mentioned. Remember that Panasonic has a $400 rebate till the end of the month. Once you factor in the rebate, everything else falls into place with my statement.

Very true, they all start above the $1500 price I mentioned. Remember that Panasonic has a $400 rebate till the end of the month. Once you factor in the rebate, everything else falls into place with my statement.

I understand the rebate and factored that it. With the rebate, the cheapest was over $1500, which is my magic budget number. If I could actually buy it for under $1500, I would buy it immediately.

I understand the rebate and factored that it. With the rebate, the cheapest was over $1500, which is my magic budget number. If I could actually buy it for under $1500, I would buy it immediately.

I just checked and it is under $1500 after rebate. I believe others on this thread call that company VA for short. I hope you can figure the rest out.

I just checked and it is under $1500 after rebate. I believe others on this thread call that company VA for short. I hope you can figure the rest out.

its also at the top of everbody's screen...top left ;)

its also at the top of everbody's screen...top left ;)

GOT IT. Ha. Lauren of said initials is going to help me buy my pj.

Just want to report that I have 728 Hours on my lamp, and still going strong. :)

Got screengoo coming in this week, can't wait. :)

GOT IT. Ha. Lauren of said initials is going to help me buy my pj.

Better check the return policy with VA. Some in this forum report some some "not-so-nice" experiences.

I have a question regarding motion blurring. I currently have the NEC LT150 and am considering upgrading. One of my biggest gripes w/ the NEC is that on motion scenes it has a blurred picture. Bourne Supremacy was real bad. I was told by a couple people that this is because the NEC is an office projector and its processor is designed for stills and not motion.Is this true?

I am considering the Pan 900 and would like to know if it will be a big improvement in this area and also overall.

Thanks.
Dan

ragdoll -- They give AVS members special discounts/offers, see the ..../AVS/ version of their site. AVS Sales were handling the AE900 too (I don't know if they still are).

digital_dilemma -- That depends on who makes the units being sold. Sanyo, for instance, insists on handling all problems through the "Factory" and requires that the dealer is not supposed to provide any support. They're just operating under their "Authorized Dealer" requirements.

Ereiamjh -- Motion blurring depends on how well the electronics are designed (de-interlacing, etc.) and what the source is. Business PJs are designed to work from PCs and they don't have to work with interlaced signals (DVDs and TV signals are interlaced by default -- 480i -- except for 720p HDTV sources). The AE900 does a good job of de-interlacing. {NOTE: I'm sensitive to motion bluring and I didn't see any on an AE700 that I saw.}

Thanks CT_Wiebe!!

I am using a Panny RP-56 progressive DVD player, but it is only helping slightly. I can't wait to upgrade as the blurring is really getting to me.

Thanks again,
Dan

[QUOTE=CT_Wiebe]

digital_dilemma -- That depends on who makes the units being sold. Sanyo, for instance, insists on handling all problems through the "Factory" and requires that the dealer is not supposed to provide any support. They're just operating under their "Authorized Dealer" requirements.

QUOTE]

I was referring to returns, not service. Thanks for your input, though. I believe VA has a pretty hefty restocking fee on returns, so I am just pointing out that anyone buying from there be well aware of this beforehand.

I am really considering the Panny 900u.

How does this device work with Parkland Plastics (matte side, no additional paint)?

Also, I found this unit at a website called ProViewDigital...is this site sponsored here? If not, are they reputable?

Kezug,

I have been projecting my 900 onto parkland since I got it. It looks great. Now, I am not a highly demanding sort, so I probably have lower expectations than most in here, but I am very, very happy with it.

I will be changing to a larger screen, so I am going to use drywall and a paint mixture. But I am very happy with my parkland 8x6 screen.

Go for it...

Ken

Also, I see you are in Indiana. I live in Cincinnati. Depending on what part of the state, you could stop by and see mine in action if you would like. Send me an email if you want.

I bought the DVI to Component adapter that works with my ATI 9700 card to get to component for my PC. It looks a lot clearer with Overscan turned off. Why does Panasonic have Overscan on as the default. Makes no sense to me.

Actually, the people who like it are mostly too busy enjoying it to be bothered with forums.

I hope so ! Does anyone know of a good DVD player for this PJ(900)? I think an upscaling model is what I want, right?

John

I am in the same boat. I need a DVD player too as I plan on buying the AE 900U (which only has 1 HDMI) to integrate with my current:

Sony DA333ES receiver (4 optical digital inputs , 1 optical digital output , 1 coaxial digital input , 5 analog audio inputs/ 2 outputs , 5 video inputs/ 3 outputs all with S-Video)

Bose Acoustimass 15 (5.1) surround sound system

DTV HD H20 receiver that has 2 composite, 1 S-video, 1 component video, 1 HDMI.

I need a DVD plaver that will give me the best picture. I know the receiver and speakers could be upgraded but they work fine and are not in the budget right now. I had been looking into a few DVD player choices such as the Denon 1920 and 2910 or Samsung DVD HD 950 and 941 or Sony DVP NS975. Any help would be appreciated. I'd like it to be hooked up through the HDMI but with only 1 on the AE900 I am not sure what to do to ge tthe best picture. I also know nothing about this stuff and have been self taught over the last few weeks from this site.

Have you considered the OPPO OPDV971H DVD player? I can't speak from experience since my AE900 just got delivered, today, and my Oppo won't be here until Friday, but this $199 upscaling DVD player has gotten rave reviews.

Kezug,

I have been projecting my 900 onto parkland since I got it. It looks great. Now, I am not a highly demanding sort, so I probably have lower expectations than most in here, but I am very, very happy with it.

I will be changing to a larger screen, so I am going to use drywall and a paint mixture. But I am very happy with my parkland 8x6 screen.

Go for it...

Ken

Also, I see you are in Indiana. I live in Cincinnati. Depending on what part of the state, you could stop by and see mine in action if you would like. Send me an email if you want.


Thanks Modawg73 but I am from NW Indiana...but Thanks.

Can anyone answer my question regarding ProViewDigital.com ...has anyone heard of this site?

[QUOTE=jennifer drayton]I need a DVD player that will give me the best picture. I know the receiver and speakers could be upgraded but they work fine and are not in the budget right now. I had been looking into a few DVD player choices such as the Tenon 1920 and 2910 or Samsung DVD HD 950 and 941 or Sony DVP NS975. Any help would be appreciated. I'd like it to be hooked up through the HDMI but with only 1 on the AE900 I am not sure what to do to ge tthe best picture. QUOTE]

Jennifer,

You can also consider the Panasonic S77. A good site for DVD Player (and other A/V equipment) detailed reviews is http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/main.html. From what I have read, this unit and the previously mentioned Oppo are considered the best value upconverting DVD players at present. Both have some pros and cons in the details so if you are considering either, do a little more reading to make sure you get the one that suits your viewing plans.

[QUOTE=jennifer drayton]I need a DVD player that will give me the best picture. I know the receiver and speakers could be upgraded but they work fine and are not in the budget right now. I had been looking into a few DVD player choices such as the Denon 1920 and 2910 or Samsung DVD HD 950 and 941 or Sony DVP NS975. Any help would be appreciated. I'd like it to be hooked up through the HDMI but with only 1 on the AE900 I am not sure what to do to ge tthe best picture. QUOTE]

Jennifer,

You can also consider the Panasonic S77. A good site for DVD Player (and other A/V equipment) detailed reviews is http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/main.html. From what I have read, this unit and the previously mentioned Oppo are considered the best value upconverting DVD players at present. Both have some pros and cons in the details so if you are considering either, do a little more reading to make sure you get the one that suits your viewing plans.

Would you think the SD-K850 Toshiba from Costco is as equal as an option as the Oppo or Panny? It is cheaper.......

Also I was wondering, given my equipment in a previous post, if these new componets (AE900, HDMI DVD player) are not so complicated enough that I would need a HT installation expert to integrate and wire all of this for me? I have a few very electrically educated family members who would be willing to help out. It seems the AE900 is pretty easy to set up out of the box following the instructions. I know nothing about calibration though.

Ok, I am taking the plunge. My new AE900 arrives tommorrow. What a great price on that unit. This unit should hold me over while all the new 1080P sets gradually come out. After lots of reading on this forum, the AE900 seemed like the logical choice.

I am in the same boat. I need a DVD player too as I plan on buying the AE 900U (which only has 1 HDMI) to integrate with my current:

Sony DA333ES receiver (4 optical digital inputs , 1 optical digital output , 1 coaxial digital input , 5 analog audio inputs/ 2 outputs , 5 video inputs/ 3 outputs all with S-Video)

Bose Acoustimass 15 (5.1) surround sound system

DTV HD H20 receiver that has 2 composite, 1 S-video, 1 component video, 1 HDMI.

I need a DVD plaver that will give me the best picture. I know the receiver and speakers could be upgraded but they work fine and are not in the budget right now. I had been looking into a few DVD player choices such as the Denon 1920 and 2910 or Samsung DVD HD 950 and 941 or Sony DVP NS975. Any help would be appreciated. I'd like it to be hooked up through the HDMI but with only 1 on the AE900 I am not sure what to do to ge tthe best picture. I also know nothing about this stuff and have been self taught over the last few weeks from this site.

I just hooked it all up and am streaming HD to the AE900U.

It's beautiful.

I am expecting Pana 900 on monday. What is this overscan as default mean? I have a Pioneer Elite 74 VSX-TXVi receiver, a Panasonic S 97 DVD player, and HD Direct TV receiver. If I hook up the DVD player and Direct TV HD receiver with Blue Jeans HDMI cables to the Pioneer Elite receiver via HDMI input, and run a Blue Jeans HDMI cable out to projector from Pioneer receiver will this be the best way to hook up.

About the overscan thing. What do I do about it.

Thankx. J.D.

"About the overscan thing. What do I do about it."

Tur it off in the menu if you are feeding the projector 720p. Otherwise you loose 1:1 pixel mapping.

Look in my gallery for pictures of how Overscan ON distorts test patterns from a 720p source.

Shawn

Should you leave it on if you are feeding it 480p?

" Should you leave it on if you are feeding it 480p? "

If you feed it 480p I'm not sure if you can turn in on/off. either way. 480p is rescaled by the Panasonic to 720p so it couldn't be 1:1 pixel mapped anyway.

Shawn

Any ideas on how to improve picture quality for standard definition inputs like something that only goes up to S-video as the highest level of input. When I watch DVD's or play PS2 both with component connections everything looks amazing, but when I try to watch dish or anything else that's hooked up through the s-video switch the picture appears somewhat blurry.

Any ideas on how to improve picture quality for standard definition inputs like something that only goes up to S-video as the highest level of input. When I watch DVD's or play PS2 both with component connections everything looks amazing, but when I try to watch dish or anything else that's hooked up through the s-video switch the picture appears somewhat blurry.

Unfortunately, garbage in / garbage out. All Dish and D* digital signals on SD content are highly compressed. A lot of the lack of detail and the video noise is not noticeable on a small screen TV, but becomes immediately apparent when expanded to a projector size screen. Honestly, not much you can do about it. I used to receive everything in analog SD over a C-Band BUD (Big Ugly Dish), but the signals were not compressed and they could easily be line doubled for a not-too-shabby image. When I had to go to the little dish and tried the same thing..YUK! :eek:

I have a lens shift question:

In a recent article (Audioholics IN76 preview) the reviewer basically said that the Panasonic projectors can't be mounted below the top of the screen or above the bottom of the screen (for table mounting,) which negates one of the benefits of lens shift. I would like to shelf mount with the lens oriented somewhere in the lower - middle of the screen. Is this possible?

Here's the section in question:
"Some other projector manufacturers (such as Panasonic and Sanyo) utilize a lens shift feature, which allows the image to be adjusted up and down by using either a manual or electronic control on the projector. Although many people feel that having lens shift is preferable, we respectfully disagree. With almost all lens shift projectors, the lens can be NO HIGHER than the top of the screen."

That article is wrong. The Panasonic can be about 13% above/below the top of the screen per the manual. I think that Sanyo has even more range then that.

Shawn

After having researched projectors for the last 2 years, reading numerous reviews and browsing/lurking thru this forum I have finally ordered an ae900 down here in New Zealand.

I had looked at other options like the Sanyo Z4, Sony HS60 (51a), Optoma H72 and Mitsi 3000. However, the only one of these available to view was the Panasonic. I'd seen numerous demonstrations of it but was most impressed when I saw it running in a demo projector room in a Home Theatre Shop. The guy went to the effort of shutting off all the plasma screens behind it and proceeded to show Star Wars episode III. I was just transfixed, watching it on a 3 metre Grandview screen . Blacks looked good, colours great. He said it was straight out of the box, no tweaking.

Just called them up to purchase it, I think I hit the deal of the year. 26% off standard price with Panasonic throwing in a free bulb. I originally asked the guy to check his figures. Anyway, making the 2 hr drive to pick it up next weekend, looking forward to giving it a blat. Unfortunately I will only be using my old Pioneer 535 DVD player until such time I have funds for something better.

Must make a mention, the local shop whom sell the 900 had no idea about the free bulb offer when I called about doing a deal a few days ago. He never called me back! Thanks for all the advice!

Neal

I am about to receive my 900 and am wondering if I should by a UPS. The main issue is to keep the fan of the 900 running in case I loose power. I called different vendors and most tell me it is not needed (and some added that the 900 in fact has a capacitor to keep the fan running if the power goes out), and that an outage wld not be enought to kill the PJ (of course if it happens everyday it wld be different). Did you buy one?

I am about to receive my 900 and am wondering if I should by a UPS. The main issue is to keep the fan of the 900 running in case I loose power. I called different vendors and most tell me it is not needed (and some added that the 900 in fact has a capacitor to keep the fan running if the power goes out), and that an outage wld not be enought to kill the PJ (of course if it happens everyday it wld be different). Did you buy one?
I was close, but I didn't. If you buy one, make sure it outputs a stepped sin wave, or at least an approximation of one. These are significantly more expensive, unless you buy a refurbished model, but I didn't feel comfortable letting a refurb do such an important job. So when I took into account just how much a new stepped sin wave UPS costs, I came to the conclusion that it just wasn't worth it. The power is farely reliable in my area though, so it wasn't a major issue to begin with.

I have a lens shift question:

In a recent article (Audioholics IN76 preview) the reviewer basically said that the Panasonic projectors can't be mounted below the top of the screen or above the bottom of the screen (for table mounting,) which negates one of the benefits of lens shift. I would like to shelf mount with the lens oriented somewhere in the lower - middle of the screen. Is this possible?

Here's the section in question:
"Some other projector manufacturers (such as Panasonic and Sanyo) utilize a lens shift feature, which allows the image to be adjusted up and down by using either a manual or electronic control on the projector. Although many people feel that having lens shift is preferable, we respectfully disagree. With almost all lens shift projectors, the lens can be NO HIGHER than the top of the screen."

You'll be fine with the panny. I tried one but was just outside the 13% range ceiling mounted so sent it back and now have the z4. If you are in the lower-middle, you are golden.

OK, now I'm confused about the vertical lens shift. Is there a calculator available somewhere?

If the AE900 is mounted flush on the ceiling with, say, a Chief RPA-U...that would put the center of the lens about 6-8" from ceiling, right? Now if the projector is mounted 16' from the front wall, what is the minimum distance the top of the screen will need to be from the ceiling. It was my understanding that, technically, you could have the top of the screen almost flush with the ceiling if you were taking the vertical shift to the max. Is this incorrect?

About the overscan thing.

Iwill be using a Panasonic s-97 DVD player. My entire system will be hooked up using Blue Jeans HDMI cables. Along with a HD Direct TV receiver and XBOX 360.

You say to turn off overscan in the menu if feeding PJ 720p. Is my set-up considered to be feeding PJ 720p ???

"Now if the projector is mounted 16' from the front wall, what is the minimum distance the top of the screen will need to be from the ceiling. "

With the lens shift you could put the edge of the screen right up to the edge of the ceiling if you wanted the minimum.

If you meant maximum distance (max offset).....

What is the height of the screen you are going with? For an inverted ceiling mounted projector the Panasonic can use the lens shift to throw the center of the screen 63% below the center of the lens.

So... in other words if you were throwing a 40" tall image with max lens shift the center of the screen can be 25.2 inches above/below the center of the lens. 40" x 0.63 = 25.2. In other words at max lens shift the edge of the screen on the 40" tall screen is 5.2 inches below the center of the lens.

To calculate it based on the edge of the screen instead of the center just take screen height and multiple by .13. 40" X .13 = 5.2"

Of course the lens shift can work in either direction... so the max offset is that the edge of a 40" screen could be anywhere between 5.2" above the center of the lens down to 5.2" below the center of the lens.

If you are using a different height screen just substitute its numbers above and you can figure out the max offset.

Shawn

Jeff,

" Is my set-up considered to be feeding PJ 720p ???"

If you set all your devices to feed the PJ 720p then yes.

Shawn

I have a Oppo Digital upscaling DVD player for my AE900 (delivery on Monday). Used on my Studio Experience 12SF before this and I have also used it on my brothers AE700. Picture quality via the included DVI to HDMI cable is outstanding. Have had knowledgeable friends comment the Oppo can rival a HTPC's quality with the AE700. For $200 the Oppo is a great upscaling DVI equipped DVD player. Have had it for about a year now. Company stands behind it. Even a few firmware tweeks during that time. This unit plays PAL, Divx, etc.. right out of the box.

[QUOTE=Black_Mustang_97]

Would you think the SD-K850 Toshiba from Costco is as equal as an option as the Oppo or Panny? It is cheaper.......

Also I was wondering, given my equipment in a previous post, if these new componets (AE900, HDMI DVD player) are not so complicated enough that I would need a HT installation expert to integrate and wire all of this for me? I have a few very electrically educated family members who would be willing to help out. It seems the AE900 is pretty easy to set up out of the box following the instructions. I know nothing about calibration though.

Jennifer,

Don't worry about the calibration. Many of the people here are videophiles, and notice nuances in the PJ that some if not most people don't. I watch my Panny, and can adjust the brightness, contrast and color settings to get a very nice picture by myself.

You won't be disappointed. Just try to change a few things if you feel like you need to.

Also, it is easy to set up.

Good luck and enjoy your new PJ!

Ken

hey guys, what's the early lamp failure rate on the ae900? i read there are some issues with it.

How big is the problem? if i buy a new ae900 what are the chances it will fail below 750hrs?

coming from the mt700 disaster camp, i am very wary of this. Any feedback/experience is appreciated, thank you.

Gagaliya - I wandered over here wondering the same thing. After reading the last several pages of the thread, I've seen no mention of lamp problems. That, coupled with the lack of response to your post, suggests to me that the AE900 world is a much happier place than our MT700/PE7700 realm.

Would you think the SD-K850 Toshiba from Costco is as equal as an option as the Oppo or Panny? It is cheaper.......

.

I bought a SD-K850, as the specs looked impressive (for the price) and it comes with an HDMI cable. Luckily, Costo has the best return policy :-)

I never saw that many arctifacts in a DVD player. Not even my 5 year old low-end Sony was that bad. The worst was looking at any screen with digitally generated test, where you could see random pixels around every character. I'm sure that progressive scan and HDMI do their best to transfer the image generated by the decoder with the highest fidelity... the problem is that the the original image is so bad it can't be watched, especially on a big screen (I tried it on my old analog TV, and it was OK)

So how many of you use Overscan? Why is it defaulted to on? When its off, it appears like more picture is shown...is this true? Also, how bad is it to use keystone? My picture is slightly wider at the bottom than at the top (which I guess happens because the lens is mounted below the top of the screen (is this right)? So I set keystone to -1 and it makes it more rectangle...do I do any harm by doing this?

Thanks

Hey Guys!

Is it O.K. to just shut off the AE900 via remote, let it cool down, and leave it "on" at the master switch? The manual states it will use power but doesn't say if it is harmful to leave it "on". My old Infocus required one to "stan-by" while it cooled, and then turn it off at the projector)15 minutes later- a difficult task to get teenagers to adhere to :D
Thanks

So how many of you use Overscan? Why is it defaulted to on? When its off, it appears like more picture is shown...is this true? Also, how bad is it to use keystone? My picture is slightly wider at the bottom than at the top (which I guess happens because the lens is mounted below the top of the screen (is this right)? So I set keystone to -1 and it makes it more rectangle...do I do any harm by doing this?

Thanks

I haven't played around with the overscan setting but apparently it's on by default yes. From what I've read, this is a bad thing. I'll look at my own 900U later tonight. But the pic quality is excellent already so I really don't care :)

Keystoning won't do any harm. It might slightly deteriorate picture quality but to a normal viewer, it won't even be visible.

AE900 is being delivered on monday. I just got an XBOX 360 , It is over heating. Ive got it hooked up to a four thousand dollar home theater. It works for about an hour, then freezes up! Is this a common problem? What should I do about this?

XBox had this issue very early in the game. Short answer, get a PS2, long answer, return it and get one from a different lot. Making sure the build date is recent.

Just wanted to know if anybody else was having this problem with there 900 or if they know if it is a bulb or other issue.Last night i was watching Revenge Of The Sith,about the last half hour i started to notice a flicker in the picture,would flash repeadily not severely but enough to notice and be distracting.I only have 55 hours on the bulb.It lasted for about 20 seconds and that was it.The next movie i poped in was Lords Of War.Same problem but now occurring more often and it is really noticeable and starting to bother me.I have tried flciker test and turned off DI again but still comes and go's.Does this sound like bulb failure already or something else and has anybody else had this problem.Looks like i might have to send it in for service but i cant believe it.I had the AE700 before and had no problems what soever with the lastest firmware.I never had a bulb issue with that unit either.I also noticeghosting around certain images clearly around peoples bodies or other objects when viewing and almost believe that is either a convergence problem or panel allignment.The best thing i notice is that i have had 0 vertical banding on my AE900 which i was overwhelmed by since i did have it on my AE700 but never the fast flashing going from dim to bright.I purchased both my units from Visual Apex.If any one has a possible awnswer or anoteh test i can check i am all ears and i will report back!


Thanks

WOW.That sucks, how long have you had 900?

I have a 900 delivered (UPS) TOMORROW. Anything I need to know at first would be nice.

GOOD LUCK. J.D My NEW XBOX gets as hot as a HOT POTATO! Its going back,SUCKS!

Just got my rebate after sending it in on 12/14/05, and the BB card is still only valid until June 30th.

jcg

Hello Guys:

I have been spending a lot of time reading posts here and this forum has been a great help with my theatre choices. I have a Carada 110" screen, AE900, Oppo DVD player and a Yamaha 2600 receiver.

I have stunning video on HD Bell (I am in Canada) Dvd looks very good but I have a strange problem - when I switch from Sat - DVD the picture moves about 4" to the right -- I have everything set for 720P -- sat and dvd hooked up with hdmi and one hdmi out to the projector - any thoughts? I also find the DVD image nice but not stunning like hi-def. If someone could give me an idea of the best settings for this combination I would be thrilled !!

Thanks

In the Menu, look for 'Position'. Adjust the horizontal positioning so it brings the image back to center. The 900 should be able to tell the difference between the Oppo and the Bell dish and automatically apply the proper positioning for each.

Just wanted to know if anybody else was having this problem with there 900 or if they know if it is a bulb or other issue.Last night i was watching Revenge Of The Sith,about the last half hour i started to notice a flicker in the picture,would flash repeadily not severely but enough to notice and be distracting.I only have 55 hours on the bulb.It lasted for about 20 seconds and that was it.The next movie i poped in was Lords Of War.Same problem but now occurring more often and it is really noticeable and starting to bother me.I have tried flciker test and turned off DI again but still comes and go's.Does this sound like bulb failure already or something else and has anybody else had this problem.Looks like i might have to send it in for service but i cant believe it.I had the AE700 before and had no problems what soever with the lastest firmware.I never had a bulb issue with that unit either.I also noticeghosting around certain images clearly around peoples bodies or other objects when viewing and almost believe that is either a convergence problem or panel allignment.The best thing i notice is that i have had 0 vertical banding on my AE900 which i was overwhelmed by since i did have it on my AE700 but never the fast flashing going from dim to bright.I purchased both my units from Visual Apex.If any one has a possible awnswer or anoteh test i can check i am all ears and i will report back!


Thanks

Try checking your connections. I have not noticed this problem with my Panny 900 but we have a different brand pj at work and there was a problem with picture brightness flicker. There was a vcr in the mix and the connections were not tight. We corrected the flicker by making sure all the connections were tight.

Hello everybody!

I am a projector newbie and have been reading a lot about what projector to get. I am about 99% sure I will be ordering the AE900U this week. I have a few questions though. My lens will be about 10' from my 92" GreyWolf screen - head on, dead center in the middle of the screen vertically and horizontally (on a A.V. shelf). Based on the calculators I have seen online, I will have to set the zoom around 1.78x to make this work.

Now for my quesitons:

1) Will having this much zoom affect the image quality at all?

2) From what I have read in the online manual, this projector sends it's picture straight out so if you mounted the projector with the lens right in the middle of the screen, you would get the best image. The manual says "Generally, the maxium picture quality is obtained when the lens is moved to the center (vertically and horizontally)." Is this the case or am I misreading this? (not a huge deal but this is what I am planning on doing).

Scotty 44, what is FPN ?

I am not sure what is causing this but here goes. When I turn on my Panny 900 about every third or fourth time the power led just continues to blink green until it goes blinking yellow then to solid red and the lamp led starts blinking red. I am using an HDMI cable to my set top cable box. I can get it to come on but I have to turn it on a few times and usually turn on and off the cable box a few times. I have about 250 hours on my projector and never had this problem with when it was hooked up to my PC. Does the projector have to receive a signal from the box to power up, I would believe you could power it up without anything plugged in at all, correct? I have had the HDMI port on one cable box just stop working so I exchanged it for this one. I haven't tried any other source yet as it will be a pain to move everything. I was just wondering if anyone else had a an issue with this.

dmfoo,

Sounds like a HDMI handshake issue with the cable box. Try component cables to see if the issue remains. You may also try to power up via one of the other video input sources and then switch to the HDMI source (just a thought).

BTW, FPN=Fixed Pattern Noise, it is also known as Screen Door Effect (SDE).

Peace and blessings,

Azeke

Concerning the overscan-function: I noticed that when I turn it off, a small black frame builds up around the whole screen so that the 16:9 panel is no longer fully used ...
Is this normal ?
Is there any possibility to turn overscan off and still make the picture fit into the full panel resolution without having to zoom it ???

I think you have the same issue I have with mine....Faulty lamp circuit. There are a number here who have reported the same thing. I should be getting mine back from servicing this week. You may want to contact your dealer or Panasonic directly to remedy the situation.


I am not sure what is causing this but here goes. When I turn on my Panny 900 about every third or fourth time the power led just continues to blink green until it goes blinking yellow then to solid red and the lamp led starts blinking red. I am using an HDMI cable to my set top cable box. I can get it to come on but I have to turn it on a few times and usually turn on and off the cable box a few times. I have about 250 hours on my projector and never had this problem with when it was hooked up to my PC. Does the projector have to receive a signal from the box to power up, I would believe you could power it up without anything plugged in at all, correct? I have had the HDMI port on one cable box just stop working so I exchanged it for this one. I haven't tried any other source yet as it will be a pain to move everything. I was just wondering if anyone else had a an issue with this.

What Is F P N ?????

FPN, as posted by Azeke a few posts above...
dmfoo,
...BTW, FPN=Fixed Pattern Noise, it is also known as Screen Door Effect (SDE).

Return that XBox 360 that is just waiting to catch your house on fire, wait til November and pick you up a BluRay-equipped Playstation 3. Sony usually has their stuff together on the PS's.

FPN, as posted by Azeke a few posts above...

Misleading I'm afraid.
SDE is the image structure.
Fixed Panel Noise is where an area of pixels of indeterminate or amorphous shape that are apparent on screen.

To quote from http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_11_2/panasonic-pt-l500u-projector-5-2004.html

FPN arises when different adjacent pixels have different apparent gain or brightness with a uniform input signal. With FPN, an image of uniform brightness can look streaked or dirty, just like having a dirty projection screen. This is most noticeable during pans in which a uniformly colored object moves across the screen. In these cases, a stationary pattern becomes more noticeable.

In understanding the lack of a definite shape of FPN you understand the joke in scotty144's sig. - VB is in columns.

btw, not picking on anyone, and welcome to AVS.
ted

I have the same start up issue. I have had my unit in for service twice. The ballast and power supply have been replaced so far. The problem still occurs on the third of forth time after the unit has been shut down for a few days. Not sure what to do next. Ill keep you posted.

Anyone have any insight on what will happen after 3/31 regarding the rebate? I am really leaning towards the 900 but my room will not be finished for a couple of months so I can't pull the trigger right now.

Anyone have any insight on what will happen after 3/31 regarding the rebate? I am really leaning towards the 900 but my room will not be finished for a couple of months so I can't pull the trigger right now.

I ordered mine 6 weeks ago to get in on the rebate and my room won't be done for another month or so. Nothing wrong with having it a little early. Plus if your situation is like mine you may want it to figure out screen mounting and even projector mounting. It's an awesome PJ even just shown on unfinished drywall. I can imaging how it will look once my Screen Goo wall is done (will finish tonight).

I know but I cant see having a piece of equip like that sit around unused...and in my case the walls aren't even up yet--just the studding...

Anyone have any insight on what will happen after 3/31 regarding the rebate? I am really leaning towards the 900 but my room will not be finished for a couple of months so I can't pull the trigger right now.

I have a guess.
Extended to 4/30

The image shift to the right is a known problem for the Oppo DVD player with firmware 1111B. Fortunately they have come out with software updates which can be downloaded from their website, burned to CD, and uploaded to your Oppo by playing the CD update. Go with a new firmware for your Oppo like 0220, there's also a thread in the other sub-forum called Oppo Brain Dump that has everything about this great DVD player. Good luck.


Hello Guys:

I have been spending a lot of time reading posts here and this forum has been a great help with my theatre choices. I have a Carada 110" screen, AE900, Oppo DVD player and a Yamaha 2600 receiver.

I have stunning video on HD Bell (I am in Canada) Dvd looks very good but I have a strange problem - when I switch from Sat - DVD the picture moves about 4" to the right -- I have everything set for 720P -- sat and dvd hooked up with hdmi and one hdmi out to the projector - any thoughts? I also find the DVD image nice but not stunning like hi-def. If someone could give me an idea of the best settings for this combination I would be thrilled !!

Thanks

I know but I cant see having a piece of equip like that sit around unused...and in my case the walls aren't even up yet--just the studding...

Yeah that may be a bit premature than. Well..the good news is they have extended it twice so there is a good chance they may do it again. The nice thing for me is seeing a new PJ, receiver, amp, and speakers sitting in boxes really motivated me to get the room finished.

Anyone have any insight on what will happen after 3/31 regarding the rebate? I am really leaning towards the 900 but my room will not be finished for a couple of months so I can't pull the trigger right now.

I'd love to know too since it looks like my Berkline seating is now going to be 8 weeks out since that is how long it takes for those things from order date and I'd hate to jump on the AE900 and have it sit for 7 weeks. I'd be pissed if it came down even more or something better at a comparable price came out in the meantime.

Well I have the PJ and I am trying to decided on my screen. I am thinking about the Carada Criterion Series BW 104 in diag, 1.85 to 1. My viewing distance is 15 ft. and I have good control of light. I could go larger maybe 118" and not sure if the BW is what to get . Any advise would be greatly appreciated as it is my first.

Does anyone know if there is a Equipment Code to plug into the Panny AE900 Remote to control basic functions of the Oppo 971 DVD player? I also kneed one for my Harmon Kardon AVR 635 AV Amp.

Any help is much appreciated.

Well I have the PJ and I am trying to decided on my screen. I am thinking about the Carada Criterion Series BW 104 in diag, 1.85 to 1. My viewing distance is 15 ft. and I have good control of light. I could go larger maybe 118" and not sure if the BW is what to get . Any advise would be greatly appreciated as it is my first.
I don't know much about the Carada but with regards to the size, I'd say go as big as you can -- especially if you have good light control. I sit about 14 ft away from a 120" (diy blackout) and sometimes wish that it were even bigger! Frankly even with some light in the room (courtesy of the wife), the image is pretty good.

Driver, I could use that too. I'm buying one of those oppo opdv971H DVD players. The reviews look good. Will likely want HD- DVD player later, like blu-ray. Should I wait?

I received yesterday this projector from Costco. I noticed immediately quite some 'mechanical noise' when turning on. It gets little bit better after 10 minutes or so but still sounds little bit different from pure fan noise. Can anyone comments if this is normal?

I only tried s-video so far but the picture looks alright. Little bit fuzzy but that's probably expected with this connection. I'll try tomorrow digital cables.

Thanks
Luc

I received yesterday this projector from Costco. I noticed immediately quite some 'mechanical noise' when turning on. It gets little bit better after 10 minutes or so but still sounds little bit different from pure fan noise. Can anyone comments if this is normal?

I only tried s-video so far but the picture looks alright. Little bit fuzzy but that's probably expected with this connection. I'll try tomorrow digital cables.

Thanks
Luc
That "mechanical noise" is common in startup. The user manual states such noise is normal, mine will clunk around for a few seconds not 10 minutes.

Well I have the PJ and I am trying to decided on my screen. I am thinking about the Carada Criterion Series BW 104 in diag, 1.85 to 1. My viewing distance is 15 ft. and I have good control of light. I could go larger maybe 118" and not sure if the BW is what to get . Any advise would be greatly appreciated as it is my first.

I just received the Carada 104" 1:85 to 1 CCW screen yesterday. I will be installing over next couple of days to go with my AE900U. I should be able to give some feedback on this screen hopefully by this weekend. I got the CCW over the BW because I wanted the option of having some rear lighting on in our Rec Room (its multipurpose and can't always be 100% dark even tho' it is possible)

We will be sitting 13ft from screen. I will be running it mostly off the Pannasonic S77 DVD player via HDMI.

If you have questions about appropriate screen for your needs, don't hesitate to e-mail Carada directly. They were very helpful in helping me decide what was best for me. They usually respond within 48hrs (most often in less than 24!).

Driver, I could use that too. I'm buying one of those oppo opdv971H DVD players. The reviews look good. Will likely want HD- DVD player later, like blu-ray. Should I wait?

If you read other AVS threads on HD-DVD, it seems consensus is it will take a couple of years for marketplace to decide which format will come out on top (much like famous Beta vs VHS). Regardless of eventual outcome (one of formats likely to become obsolete), initial units of both types will likely be very expensive.

IMHO I would suggest get a good upconverting DVD player now like the Oppo or S77 and enjoy its benefits immediately while you wait to see which HD-DVD format wins out.

If you read other AVS threads on HD-DVD, it seems consensus is it will take a couple of years for marketplace to decide which format will come out on top (much like famous Beta vs VHS). Regardless of eventual outcome (one of formats likely to become obsolete), initial units of both types will likely be very expensive.

IMHO I would suggest get a good upconverting DVD player now like the Oppo or S77 and enjoy its benefits immediately while you wait to see which HD-DVD format wins out.

Or wait and buy the LG combination HD/Blu-Ray player coming out in a few months. Which ever way the market goes you will be able to play the "winner".

Just got new Pana 900. I want to put it in low lamp mode right away. How did you all first power up your Projector.

Also, should I get a Monster Power UPS backup. It is on sale for $179. Reg. $299.

People are telling me its too much. To get a computor one for $60. But this one is designed for projectors. And was a product winner. Need answer, I have it on hold to pick up.

I think you have the same issue I have with mine....Faulty lamp circuit. There are a number here who have reported the same thing. I should be getting mine back from servicing this week. You may want to contact your dealer or Panasonic directly to remedy the situation.

Man, I just started having these problems as well....tonight I tried getting mine to come on trying all of the tricks in the thread (unhooking the HDMI, cycling the main power, etc) and leaving it off for a while did a trick. Previously, even when the projector has been off for a day, sometimes when I turn it on the green light blinks for a while and takes 45 to 60 seconds to come on. Other times, it would come solid right away and be on in 30 seconds. This is the first time that it failed to come on wo lots of shennigans and the lamp light was blinking.

So have people had any intermittent failures? What has been the experience when sending it in for repairs? Has anyone had any problems with Heartland not addressing something that couldn't be 100% reproduced? As much as I hate having to pay and send my projector in, nothing would be worse than doing and accomplishing nothing.

Get the Oppo now, waiting for the BluRay and HD formats to work themselves out is going to take awhile. Personally i will be getting a PS3 in November when they come out, it'll have BluRay but I'd still do the Oppo now. Lots of good movies to be seen and it's not like there aren't some good DIVX files and PAL titles floating around as well.

As far as the fan noise... Are you sure you've set it to Lamp Power mode to Low?

To all those complaining about dynamic iris - noise:

you do not have to accept neither a howling sound (when displaying dark scenes) nor any sounds when displaying bright scenes !
You may send your beamer in for repair, because this noise is something that can be repaired !

I´ve had my beamer sent in to a Panasonic Service Station because of the "howling" dynamic iris an it came back two weeks later with no howling sound but some "ticking" within bright scenes.
So I send it in once again - again it took about two weeks and see: no more sounds from the iris !!!

So I can only recommend not to accept this "noisy" state if it really bothers you.
It´s very annoying having to wait all those weeks for repair, but imho it´s worth it !!!

Good luck,
prickelpit

Just got new Pana 900. I want to put it in low lamp mode right away. How did you all first power up your Projector.

Also, should I get a Monster Power UPS backup. It is on sale for $179. Reg. $299.

People are telling me its too much. To get a computor one for $60. But this one is designed for projectors. And was a product winner. Need answer, I have it on hold to pick up.

Jeff,

Do a search on these forums for UPS discussions. I was also considering same decision a while ago for my AE900 and otehr new "toys. :)

From what I gather, Monster is not worth the money. They are just good at "marketing" their products. You can get cheaper, less flashy, equally effective equivalents for everything they sell. :rolleyes:

With respect to the UPS issue, you need to be careful about how you intend to use it. Others are probably more expert here but what I have read is that all but the prohibitively expensive UPS put out a different type of current than what runs through the regular power grid (same volts, etc but different type of electricity). This is apparently fine for many things but not usually expensive electronics.

From what I read you can use a good-quality, general UPS to provide sufficient power to allow HDTVs and PJs to "power down" properly (ie keep the fans going so it doesn't cool too quick and risk damaging the bulb) but you risk damaging your equipment if you run them directly off a UPS for an extended period (ie. as replacement power in a more lengthy black out, etc).

Again, I am not an expert, but the above are things I would suggest you research in more detail related to your specific plans of use.

Hope this helps. :)

Or wait and buy the LG combination HD/Blu-Ray player coming out in a few months. Which ever way the market goes you will be able to play the "winner".


Jumpy27 has a good point. The one thing you would need to weigh is the "break in and tweaking" and other unknown issues that usually come with being first on the block with the newest technology and initial product line models.

Current Oppo and S77, etc are quite well known and documented in respect to how they perform, what you get and work arounds for many of their "gotchas".

With the LG or any other new player you would not have same degree of knowledge and reference resources available.

Only you can decide your comfort level with respect to uncertainty. You should also consider the price differential between the current upconverting units and the upcoming HD units. You can probably get the Oppo or other upconverting unit quite cheap right now. Ask yourself if it is big deal if you were to replace it in a year or so?

If you have another TV in the house that doesn't need to be the "greatest" you can also cycle it off to that unit whenever you upgrade to HD. This is what I do with most of my electronics as I upgrade (we have 3 TV set ups in different areas for the family). Everything just moves down the chain from main entertainment system to secondary, etc. One system is inevitably better than another but in general this has helped avoid most of the "what to watch" type arguments and given us extra value out of much of the equipment we buy (obviously it would be difficult to "cycle" the AE900 into another viewing area but in general for things like DVD players, receivers and speakers, etc it has worked well.

To all those complaining about dynamic iris - noise:

you do not have to accept neither a howling sound (when displaying dark scenes) nor any sounds when displaying bright scenes !
You may send your beamer in for repair, because this noise is something that can be repaired !

I´ve had my beamer sent in to a Panasonic Service Station because of the "howling" dynamic iris an it came back two weeks later with no howling sound but some "ticking" within bright scenes.
So I send it in once again - again it took about two weeks and see: no more sounds from the iris !!!

So I can only recommend not to accept this "noisy" state if it really bothers you.
It´s very annoying having to wait all those weeks for repair, but imho it´s worth it !!!

Good luck,
prickelpit

In my case I hear the 'clunking' noise also when the iris is turned off and also in low power mode. It gets little bit better after 10 minutes but still hear something mechanical (like some friction somewhere). So I probably will exchange it. Otherwise I'll take another look at the Sharp.

I tried yesterday RGB input with my PC and that was much better picture than s-video but still would have like slightly bit more sharpness.

Will try today digital out...

In my case I hear the 'clunking' noise also when the iris is turned off and also in low power mode. It gets little bit better after 10 minutes but still hear something mechanical (like some friction somewhere). So I probably will exchange it. Otherwise I'll take another look at the Sharp.

I tried yesterday RGB input with my PC and that was much better picture than s-video but still would have like slightly bit more sharpness.

Will try today digital out...

The sound is still the Iris in all likelyhood, (Recalibrating its end stops) and if annoying should be serviced.

If sharpness is your thing, you will likely be happier with the HDMI transport as it avoids the ringing that Analog methods such as VGA can introduce. Be sure OVERSCAN is OFF as it avoids scaling.

ted

If sharpness is your thing, you will likely be happier with the HDMI transport as it avoids the ringing that Analog methods such as VGA can introduce. Be sure OVERSCAN is OFF as it avoids scaling.

ted

With the over-scan off, I've noticed more and more stations don't actually send 720p...its actually quite less resolution...I've had a few times where there was a black border around the entire picture...there have also been times when there is a black line at the bottom of the picture...And then there are times when the entire picture is filled (all 1280x720 pixels)...it definitely is scaling and I really wish they would tell you that in the manual...there is absolutely no information on what it does...and why is it defaulted to ON? How does that make anysense?

"...and why is it defaulted to ON? How does that make anysense? "

So Panasonic doesn't get service calls about " there was a black border around the entire picture...there have also been times when there is a black line at the bottom of the picture...And then there are times when the entire picture is filled"

Overscan is *very* common in TVs, projectors etc. That it defaulted to ON is not suprising.

For those that don't want the duplicated scaling/expansion Panasonic gives you the option of turning off overscan. Be glad they did.

Shawn

With the over-scan off, I've noticed more and more stations don't actually send 720p...its actually quite less resolution...I've had a few times where there was a black border around the entire picture...there have also been times when there is a black line at the bottom of the picture...And then there are times when the entire picture is filled (all 1280x720 pixels)...it definitely is scaling and I really wish they would tell you that in the manual...there is absolutely no information on what it does...and why is it defaulted to ON? How does that make anysense?


Part of the ATSC spec is 704 x 480 - this is essentially SD 16:9 material. Is it possible that this is source, i.e. it is upscaled SD? To provide some background reference the DVE manual which can be sourced here (http://www.videoessentials.com/docs/DVE_Consumer_NTSC.pdf). The passage deals with DVD players but is applicable to OTA MPEG source.

The pages are 40 through 42 dealing with the 1.33 Overscan Pattern and discusses why some DVD players exhibit overscan where some don't. I'm sorry I cannot quote directly from the document as it is a locked .pdf. A good summary would be 1 paragraph: (MPEG coding works best if divisible by 16)

In the horizontal direction the number 720 for digital samples includes all of the analog formats. Some of the analog formats only go out to 713 or less. The two numbers that are even multiples for 16 for MPEG are 704 and 720.

If you wish to pursue it, this section of the document is worth a look.

As to defaulted ON - I agree it is wrong, however they are perhaps trying to avoid just what you are seeing - most 'Hi Def' sources are really upconversions from SD.

ted

Sorry this is back to fan and sharpness topic (is the policy have everything in 1 thread?).

I did try this morning HDMI with my Toshiba DVD recorder and picture looked pretty good. Little bit fuzzy but probably expected with DVD material and 115".

I hit one problem that the HDMI was 720p and the movie was anamorphic. The picture was stretched and I had only 2 choices 4:3 / 16:9 which both were incorrect. Switching to 1080i or non-progressive worked but quality was slightly diminished.

I did return my unit to costco since the fan rattles was continuous (sounded like something was shaving against another part now and occasionaly). It might be the iris but seemed to be defect.

They couldn't exchange it but I could order it again... I've ordered the Z4 today to compare so I have some time left until rebate expires.

Thanks a lot for your answers.

"...and why is it defaulted to ON? How does that make anysense? "

So Panasonic doesn't get service calls about " there was a black border around the entire picture...there have also been times when there is a black line at the bottom of the picture...And then there are times when the entire picture is filled"

Overscan is *very* common in TVs, projectors etc. That it defaulted to ON is not suprising.

For those that don't want the duplicated scaling/expansion Panasonic gives you the option of turning off overscan. Be glad they did.

Shawn

very fair enough...I completely understand. I just wish Panasonic would give more documentation on the feature...they really don't tell you much about what the option does...anyways, I'm leaving it off as it really does look sharper without it and I enjoy watch native resolution and aspect ratio

Sorry this is back to fan and sharpness topic (is the policy have everything in 1 thread?).

I did try this morning HDMI with my Toshiba DVD recorder and picture looked pretty good. Little bit fuzzy but probably expected with DVD material and 115".

I hit one problem that the HDMI was 720p and the movie was anamorphic. The picture was stretched and I had only 2 choices 4:3 / 16:9 which both were incorrect. Switching to 1080i or non-progressive worked but quality was slightly diminished.

I did return my unit to costco since the fan rattles was continuous (sounded like something was shaving against another part now and occasionaly). It might be the iris but seemed to be defect.

They couldn't exchange it but I could order it again... I've ordered the Z4 today to compare so I have some time left until rebate expires.

Thanks a lot for your answers.

Assuming you are referring to your player settings, it should have worked in 16:9.

When you say anamorphic, do you mean "encoded" i.e. "Enhanced for 16:9 displays" or that it was 2.35 ratio? This term has come to describe both - though 2.35 ratio is where it came from. What was the film?

Stretched in which direction?

ted

Is there any way to turn off the internal scaler and/or deinterlacer on the Panny 900? It seems to have a problem with deinterlaced PAL sources (576p) (= PAL DVDs) coming from the Xbox 360. It shows blackish horizontal bands going up and down the screen. For more pictures and info, see this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=652339

Can anyone please answer?

In the meantime, I've heard there's a firmware out that might fix this. Anyone know if this is correct or not?

Assuming you are referring to your player settings, it should have worked in 16:9.

When you say anamorphic, do you mean "encoded" i.e. "Enhanced for 16:9 displays" or that it was 2.35 ratio? This term has come to describe both - though 2.35 ratio is where it came from. What was the film?

Stretched in which direction?

ted

I meant 2.35 ratio. I don't know if HDMI 720p supports 2:35 or is always fixed at 16:9 (which is what happened with my dvd recorder). I'd expected to see black bars but it was stretched like 16:9. My best guess is that 720p is meant for 16:9.

Okay let me throw in something that probably was covered before. Didn't know what words to use to search this with to see if it had been.

Guide to a better picture.

I had my projector hanging about 4" above the screen top. I had to use almost all the vertical shift down. I had problems with the picture being taller then it was wide. I had an effect of a wider picture on the left then right. This was more or less corrected by simply making sure the projector was square to the screen. But the over scanning drove me nuts. I hadn’t at this point checked the level front to back and side to side. Just thought it was.

Then I bought an outstanding mount with extension from eBay for $60. It hangs down about 6" from the top of the screen and I use much less vertical shift. My projector is now level on both axes. Picture quality improved in that I can somehow now fill my whole screen where as before, it was taller then wide and would over scan off the screen if I tried to fill it on both sides.

But ultimately you don't need any vertical lens shift at all (the center of lens is vertically even with the center off the screen) which I suspect is the optimum RIGHT?

SO IDEALLY, THIS PROJECTOR SHOULD BE MOUNTED IN THE CENTER OF THE SCREEN AND LEVEL TO PRECLUDE LENS SHIFT AND OR TILTING. The lens shift allows some compensation but it is not ideal and tilting would be worse. Right?

And so if you mount the projector on or in a bookshelf and use the feet to compensate up and down, will you loose picture quality just like tilting? In other words, just to keep the shift centered and tilt the projector is a worse solution. I believe the projector needs to be level front to back, side to side and on axis as much as possible to prevent having to use any key stoning correction. Hope this helps someone else who is having the same issues. Or chime right in with any opinion.

Does turning overscan off do anything if you are using component cables and a regular dvd player? I couldn't notice a difference. I also sent in my rebate roughly 5-6 weeks ago and it does not come up on the rebate tracking page. Should I be concerned? Thanks.

Hi All,

Please forgive me if these questions are lame, but I’m a newbie of newbie’s when it comes to projectors and HD systems. I’m a computer junky, and very technical, but I don’t know a lot about projectors.

I was looking at the Runco CL420, which although priced much higher than the Panasonic, I wanted my first projector to be a good one. However, after reading various reviews and talking with friends, I decided I had to give the Panasonic a try, so I did. I just received my PT-AE900U.

First Question, did I make the right choice? Would the Runco blow this thing away, or would the 900 make any avid movie fan happy?

Two, I don’t own a filter and didn’t even know it was an option until reading posts on this site. Should I get one, and if so what one? How much of a different does it really make? Where do I get it, and any idea what it would cost?

I’ve already seen posts on different settings so I wont ask that.

Is there anything else I should know about using this?

So far I only have me DVD hooked up because me satellite wont be upgraded to HD for a few more days.

I’m using component in for now, is that OK? I’ve heard a lot of people telling me the HDMI just isn’t ready yet?

I’m in a basement with full control of light (I can make it black). Any concerns here, or is darker better?

I’m looking to use a 92”-96” screen, is this ok?

I’m up in the air between buying a screen or buying special paint and doing it myself. What is the recommendation? I’ve seen lower end screens for $500, and higher end for $2000. Is a CARADA screen ok? I was looking at this model: Carada 92" Diagonal Criterion Series Projection Screen - 1.78 to 1, Clasic Cinema White

For about $20 I can make my own. Is there that big a difference between it and spending $500-$2000?

I guess that’s about it for now. Thanks for any insight you can provide.

I don't think I've ever seen even $1000 worth of difference in screens. Screens can be had for a lot less than 500 though so you have options. I wouldn't go with a high dollar one for my first one. Ultimately, it all depends on how demanding you are as a viewer and the depth of your pocketbook. I'd start out with a cheapie for a few hundred or a DIY screen and upgrade if you find it insufficient, after getting some seat time with the setup. You'll get better at judging what is important to you the longer you spend with any given projector, screen and sound combination.

I just hooked up my Pioneer Elite VSX-74TXVi receiver, Panasonic S 97 DVD player using HDMI Blue Jeans HDMI cables, all plugged into a Monster Power HTS 5100 Power conditioner. With my home made screen made out of MDF painted Behr Flat white with 2" black velvet boarder it looks 110% TOTALLY AWESOME.

I used the AVIA DVD, but didn't adjust anything!

Absolutely STUNNING!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I meant 2.35 ratio. I don't know if HDMI 720p supports 2:35 or is always fixed at 16:9 (which is what happened with my dvd recorder). I'd expected to see black bars but it was stretched like 16:9. My best guess is that 720p is meant for 16:9.

The HDMI input should be transparent with 720P source as long as the player and PJ are set properly. Be sure the HDMI on the pj is set for 16:9 and OVERSCAN is OFF. Ensure that your player is set to drive a 16:9 display, and in this instance utilize a 2.35 source that says it is "Enhanced for 16:9 displays" or similar wording.

There are many of us here using our 700/900's over HDMI that do not have this issue, i.e. 2.35 source maps properly exhibiting black bars top and bottom. If your player upscales it should just be mapped 1:1 as 720p source bypasses the Panasonic's scaler. If OVERSCAN is OFF I would suspect a setting in the player. If your player does not upscale, again be sure it is set for 16:9 displays and be sure the pj is set for 16:9 (I do not believe you've got ASPECT control if source 720) again with Overscan OFF.

I am not familiar with your player so cannot help. I use my pj with an HTPC and have no issues and I know others use upscaling players, again with no issues of this type.

ted

SO IDEALLY, THIS PROJECTOR SHOULD BE MOUNTED IN THE CENTER OF THE SCREEN AND LEVEL TO PRECLUDE LENS SHIFT AND OR TILTING. The lens shift allows some compensation but it is not ideal and tilting would be worse. Right?

And so if you mount the projector on or in a bookshelf and use the feet to compensate up and down, will you loose picture quality just like tilting? In other words, just to keep the shift centered and tilt the projector is a worse solution. I believe the projector needs to be level front to back, side to side and on axis as much as possible to prevent having to use any key stoning correction. Hope this helps someone else who is having the same issues. Or chime right in with any opinion.

Image geometry will always be best for *any* PJ when it is set plumb, square and level to the screen. Mine is mounted on a shelf at the back of the HT as level as I can get it and use about 60% lens shift.

KEYSTONE should be avoided as much as possible as it introduces artifacts.

You mentioned OVERSCAN - are you having some issues? Is OVERSCAN set to OFF in the service menu. The 900 ships default with OVERSCAN ON.

ted

I left it at overscan on, factory setting, and I have a fantastic picture. Should I still turn overscan off? I have Pioneer Elite VSX 74 TXVi and a Panasonic S 97 DVD player all connected to Monster Power HTS 5100. Using all Blue Jeans HDMI cables. And the picture is 110% perfect in every aspect!

Setting overscan to "OFF" surely would increase your picture quality a little more since "ON" means zooming into the picture a little bit .
But I also do leave its setting to "ON" because I´m projecting on a white wall and the black frame which occurs around the whole picture when setting overscan to "OFF" is too annoying !

If you own a masked screen you can manually adjust the zoom so that you do not see the small black bars on the right and the left side anymore - in this case I would recommend the "OFF" setting since you have a little more sharpness and no image-details are cropped off !

When I focus my screen the right side of the picture is out of focus. It's just slightly out of focus while the left and middle part of the picture is in focus. I'm using lens shift down and no keystone correction. I notice this the most when I'm viewing my HTCP desktop. I can also see it if I move the menu screen of the projector around the screen.

Hey QuadMV...check out a product called screen goo by goo systems (www.goosystems.com) It has very good reviews and compares favorably to the Carada screens. I did my 118" screen for about $225 after adding up all the materials including the Goo. If you have even a little DIY and painting ability in you it is easy to do. I just finished mine Sunday night and I'm giving it until Saturday to cure and I'll fire up my 900u to take a look. I'll post some screenshots. Apart from that the Carada screens seem to be a great value for the $$$ and that was my second choice.

Setting overscan to "OFF" surely would increase your picture quality a little more since "ON" means zooming into the picture a little bit .
But I also do leave its setting to "ON" because I´m projecting on a white wall and the black frame which occurs around the whole picture when setting overscan to "OFF" is too annoying !

If you own a masked screen you can manually adjust the zoom so that you do not see the small black bars on the right and the left side anymore - in this case I would recommend the "OFF" setting since you have a little more sharpness and no image-details are cropped off !

Is this with a 700 or a 900? It was my understanding that the 900 had fixed the cropping issues that the 700 had on its HDMI input.

ted

When I focus my screen the right side of the picture is out of focus. It's just slightly out of focus while the left and middle part of the picture is in focus. I'm using lens shift down and no keystone correction. I notice this the most when I'm viewing my HTCP desktop. I can also see it if I move the menu screen of the projector around the screen.

Lack of focus uniformity is not unusual in lenses at this price point. My 700 suffers this - I set it to a compromise using text at both sides of the screen. If your PJ/screen are plumb, square, and level that's pretty well it. It can be tempered somewhat by utilizing as little lens shift as possible and using a long throw setup as you use a smaller portion of the glass for a given screen size.

ted

I left it at overscan on, factory setting, and I have a fantastic picture. Should I still turn overscan off? I have Pioneer Elite VSX 74 TXVi and a Panasonic S 97 DVD player all connected to Monster Power HTS 5100. Using all Blue Jeans HDMI cables. And the picture is 110% perfect in every aspect!

Try it and see.
I would turn it OFF for 720p sources as this should give proper 1:1 pixel mapping which is desirable as it bypasses the pj's scaler (unless th pj's scaler does a better job). OVERSCAN scales the image thereby introducing scaling artifacts. In this case you are losing source resolution.

ted

Hey QuadMV...check out a product called screen goo by goo systems (www.goosystems.com) It has very good reviews and compares favorably to the Carada screens. I did my 118" screen for about $225 after adding up all the materials including the Goo. If you have even a little DIY and painting ability in you it is easy to do. I just finished mine Sunday night and I'm giving it until Saturday to cure and I'll fire up my 900u to take a look. I'll post some screenshots. Apart from that the Carada screens seem to be a great value for the $$$ and that was my second choice.

Another alternative is buying screen fabric via AVS - contact Jason Turk. Prices are per sq. ft and reasonable.

I just reskinned my 54" x 127" screen with Vutec Britewhite 1.5 ordered via AVS.

ted

The HDMI input should be transparent with 720P source as long as the player and PJ are set properly. Be sure the HDMI on the pj is set for 16:9 and OVERSCAN is OFF. Ensure that your player is set to drive a 16:9 display, and in this instance utilize a 2.35 source that says it is "Enhanced for 16:9 displays" or similar wording.

There are many of us here using our 700/900's over HDMI that do not have this issue, i.e. 2.35 source maps properly exhibiting black bars top and bottom. If your player upscales it should just be mapped 1:1 as 720p source bypasses the Panasonic's scaler. If OVERSCAN is OFF I would suspect a setting in the player. If your player does not upscale, again be sure it is set for 16:9 displays and be sure the pj is set for 16:9 (I do not believe you've got ASPECT control if source 720) again with Overscan OFF.

I am not familiar with your player so cannot help. I use my pj with an HTPC and have no issues and I know others use upscaling players, again with no issues of this type.

ted

Ted,

Is it possible that the DVD he's watching is not 16:9 enhanced?

I have what I believe is a non-enhanced copy of "The Hunt for Red October" and finally put it in my OPPO to watch last week. Well to keep it simple, with the black bars on the top and bottom the people looked a little fat. Now I've seen this movie on my regular TV at least 20 times (yeah I'm a Tom Clancey junkie) and they never looked fat. Even the black bars on the top and bottom seemed a little too tall.

So I set my OPPO to wide/sqz and low and behold, no more plumpy people. The bad thing though was now the image was only in the center 30/40% of the screen. Black all the way around. Zooming of course killed the picture.

So needless to say, I can't watch one of my favorite all time movies correctly.

Are there many non-enhance 2.35:1 movies out there and are the companies re-doing these titles?

Rob

Another alternative is buying screen fabric via AVS - contact Jason Turk. Prices are per sq. ft and reasonable.

I just reskinned my 54" x 127" screen with Vutec Britewhite 1.5 ordered via AVS.

ted

An excellent screen material is a white or light grey Egyptian cotton, 1000 count thread sheet stretched over a frame. Of course, those can be pretty expensive, too, at between $120 - $150 each.

KEYSTONE should be avoided as much as possible as it introduces artifacts.


ted

what kind of artifacts? I haven't noticed anything...mine's only set at -2 though

Ted,

Is it possible that the DVD he's watching is not 16:9 enhanced?

Rob

I would say there is a good chance, but only Luc48 can tell us.

So needless to say, I can't watch one of my favorite all time movies correctly.

Given some of the comments I've read lately re upscaling players and the treatment of 480 content regarding aspect control, I wonder who we can point the finger at? Player manufacturers or Panasonic for not including ASPECT control for 720P source over HDMI. It's on my wishlist as it would obviate the need for an external scaler for 2.35 Constant Height setups. Aspect control is definitely a plus to be found in the HTPC world - no issues there.

So setting your player to 480 output and using the ZOOM1 function doesn't help?

ted

An excellent screen material is a white or light grey Egyptian cotton, 1000 count thread sheet stretched over a frame. Of course, those can be pretty expensive, too, at between $120 - $150 each.

It got gain? With an already lumens challenged 700 that is CC filtered that extra little helps. The Vutec fabric is exceptionally packaged - beautifully rolled on a cardboard core and wrapped in styrofoam, so the chances of creasing are next to nil.

The day I skinned it, the bozo who hung it (who shall remain nameless** :o ) failed to secure it properly. After being out, I came home to find it face down with a couple of puckers in it. Not happy I remounted it and wondered if I had to try the heat gun to remove the puckers - but lo and behold they were gone within minutes of the remount. My good fortune, but also a testament to the quality of the fabric and its backing - durability and good healing.

**ted

what kind of artifacts? I haven't noticed anything...mine's only set at -2 though

Anything that involves scaling - aliasing, ringing, geometry. If there is no choice, there's no choice. Best to avoid it where possible.

ted

Given some of the comments I've read lately re upscaling players and the treatment of 480 content regarding aspect control, I wonder who we can point the finger at? Player manufacturers or Panasonic for not including ASPECT control for 720P source over HDMI. It's on my wishlist as it would obviate the need for an external scaler for 2.35 Constant Height setups. Aspect control is definitely a plus to be found in the HTPC world - no issues there.

So setting your player to 480 output and using the ZOOM1 function doesn't help?

ted

I need to find someone to blame so I blame Panasonic :D In all reality, they have been doing this for how long? Maybe someday we'll get a firmware update :rolleyes:

Why should I try 480..... I'm not sure how the 480 would be better than the 720? I don't see any reason to try a lower resolution and then zoom and still get a crappy image. When I do zoom in 720 it looks like SD analog TV S**T. Fortunately it's the only non-anamorphic DVD I have.

Rob

I need to find someone to blame so I blame Panasonic :D In all reality, they have been doing this for how long? Maybe someday we'll get a firmware update :rolleyes:

Why should I try 480..... I'm not sure how the 480 would be better than the 720? I don't see any reason to try a lower resolution and then zoom and still get a crappy image. When I do zoom in 720 it looks like SD analog TV S**T. Fortunately it's the only non-anamorphic DVD I have.

Rob

You are trading the OPPO's scaler for the Panasonic one. I sympathize but if it allows you more control........ (the HDMI input only allows aspect control with lower rez source - and yes I do blame Panasonic). Just suggesting that the 480 mode will likely pass the correct aspect ratio for the non-anamorphic DVD and the Zoom should allow you to fill the width keeping the black rows of course. At least that is how it *should* work

Would poor quality be so with this particular DVD - yah won't know until you try?

Just think of the knowledge you'll gain. :p
Ok, that was a hopeless reason. :D

ted

Cable question

I am pulling cables prior to getting my AE900 on friday and am wondering if I need a COMPOSITE cable in addition to the HDMI and Component cables.

On my IF4805 it was needed for the menu but don't have PJ (or manual) for the 900 yet... so advice appreciated.

The menu for the 900 and my Pioneer 74txvi appears over HDMI. I just hooked up the HDMI tonight with MIkeSRC settings with the 81C filter and it looks fantastic. Thank you for sharing Mike. I love this projector.

I meant 2.35 ratio. I don't know if HDMI 720p supports 2:35 or is always fixed at 16:9 (which is what happened with my dvd recorder). I'd expected to see black bars but it was stretched like 16:9. My best guess is that 720p is meant for 16:9.

It's very likely the DVD was not enhanced for 16x9. There are a few DVDs out there (Invason of the Body Snatchers, Whatever Happened to Baby Jane) that say on the package that they are 16x9 enhanced and they are not. The only way to see them properly is to use the component input and zoom the image. It works and, if the dvd is mastered well, doesn't look half bad.

E

Re Composite cable

Thanks Mike for the reply. I have an Oppo DVD player so it's menu will appear without the composite cable? Any other reason to have a composite cable????

Re Composite cable

Thanks Mike for the reply. I have an Oppo DVD player so it's menu will appear without the composite cable? Any other reason to have a composite cable????

Yes, the Oppo menus appear on the AE900 over the HDMI cable. The only reason I can think of having a composite/s-video cable is if your receiver or pre/pro has On-Screen menus that are not supported over component or digital video (like my Denon 3803 :rolleyes: ).

It's very likely the DVD was not enhanced for 16x9. There are a few DVDs out there (Invason of the Body Snatchers, Whatever Happened to Baby Jane) that say on the package that they are 16x9 enhanced and they are not. The only way to see them properly is to use the component input and zoom the image. It works and, if the dvd is mastered well, doesn't look half bad.

E

Good thought but why not try what I suggested to Rob (Highside)? A simpler method should be feeding 480 over HDMI and utilizing the 900's aspect controls - several become available when not being sourced by Hi Def rates. This *should* work and would be a simpler workaround

ted

I hooked up my system. Pioneer Elite 74 TXVi receiver, Panasonic S 97 DVD player, Panasonic AE900 projector to Monster Power HTS 5100. I hooked up Blue Jeans HDMI cables. DVD player to receiver (HDMI 3' cable) And 15' HDMI cable to PJ from receiver.

Everything looks GREAT! Used AVIA DVD, but waste of money, everything is right on out of the box!

I did lower white and black levels a tiny amount. But colors, etc. are simply outstanding!!!

Good thought but why not try what I suggested to Rob (Highside)? A simpler method should be feeding 480 over HDMI and utilizing the 900's aspect controls - several become available when not being sourced by Hi Def rates. This *should* work and would be a simpler workaround

ted

So should I set just the 900 to 480 or both the OPPO and the 900? :confused:

Give it to me in dummy terms :o

Stupid smiley faces... :) :) I can't stop using them. :D

Rob

Everything looks GREAT! Used AVIA DVD, but waste of money, everything is right on out of the box!

I did lower white and black levels a tiny amount. But colors, etc. are simply outstanding!!!

Glad you are happy with your system. Funny though...this comment pretty much goes against everything else stated in these forums and in every review ever written about this projector. I have the Avia disk but have not used it yet since my room isn't complete. I think the picture looks great out of the box, but this is my first PJ so what do I know. I have hopes of it looking even better after running Avia. Anyone else out there have any thoughts??

On another note, after giving my Goo screen (Digital Grey Light) 2 days to cure, I am amazed at how wonderful this combo looks. It really took on a film like quality and the colors were really punchy and contrast looked very good compared to a bare wall. It should get even better over the next couple of weeks as it continued to cure. I also tried it with a decent amount of light on in the room as I am planning on watching a lot of HD sports on this thing and it was extremely watchable!!! The screen did a nice job with ambient light. I tried to get a couple of screen shots for you all, but quickly realized I need a tripod so I'll try to dig mine up and have another go at it.

So should I set just the 900 to 480 or both the OPPO and the 900? :confused:

Give it to me in dummy terms :o

Stupid smiley faces... :) :) I can't stop using them. :D

Rob

Rob,

I would try setting the player to 16:9 (display type) sourcing a 480 signal. I would first try progressive as I'm betting the OPPO does a better job of deinterlacing. If that doesn't work then try 480i. For film source (when sending 480 Interlaced)be sure the 900's CINEMA REALITY is set to ON - this decodes the 3:2 cadence from film source. With Progressive source this should not be necessary and is likely bypassed anyway. In case it doesn't get out of the way and there are picture artifacts be sure its OFF for film material.

When the 900 sees a less than 1080i/720p signal on its HDMI input it allows for some ASPECT control. I would think ZOOM1 might be the one. Sending the 900 480 does of course invoke its scaler but it might get around this issue and should be acceptable.

No promises as I don't have the OPPO and use an HTPC on my HDMI input. If you try it let us know.

ted

:eek: :) :p :D I have been all over and viewed 20+ projectors from $1,200- $30,000 units. it looks better than any of them! The colors are perfect. ALL the people that have viewed several different dvds said the colors and picture image in every way is the best they have EVER SEEN !

BIG TIME. I am having HD Direct TV being upgraded on March 27. Getting the TOP package with all channels.

I think the picture looks great out of the box, but this is my first PJ so what do I know. I have hopes of it looking even better after running Avia. Anyone else out there have any thoughts??
............................................................ ...........
I also tried it with a decent amount of light on in the room as I am planning on watching a lot of HD sports on this thing and it was extremely watchable!!! The screen did a nice job with ambient light.

I just hooked up my AE900 (temporary mount as I have couple other things to do in room first) to a S77 player combined with Carada 104" CCW screen. Projecting from 16ft and viewing from 13ft. Only have a couple of hours experimenting so far but here are my first impressions (bear in mind this is my first PJ system. I am coming from 32" regular TV).

1). PQ Out of Box: Out of box my picture was great! I have also ordered the Avia DVD but won't be using it until I have built my permanent ceiling mount (hopefully this weekend). Even if calibrating with Avia doesn't improve what I already have I will still be very happy.

2). Ambient Light Handling: Combined with Carada screen, the unit is amazing in fully dark room but also handles ambient light from behind PJ very well. My room is divided into three pot-lighting areas, each controlled be independent dimmer (front and middle occupy area from screen to seating and PJ; rear area is behind PJ over pool table, etc). I can have rear lights behind PJ upto about 40% with only minimal hit to black levels. This is more than sufficient for what I would consider general needs (ie. short-term reading or playing pool or other activities while PJ is in use). Above this, the PQ declines progressively as light increases. PJ does not like any light source between it and screen tho' (not surprising).

3). VCR/Standard Cable: I run my VCR through my Yamaha 757's Composite to Component upconversion before sending via Component to AE900. I also run my standard cable (don't know when we will get digital or HD - we're not big TV watchers) through my VCR and on to PJ via this route. I was actually quite surprised at how good the pictures were. They are quite obviously not nearly as good as HD TV or DVD quality but on mine at least, the signals are more than acceptable when considering only other option would be to throw out all my videos and purchase DVD replacements - IMHO with the AE900 this would not be necessary for the general user like me. Again I have not yet had time to experiment with all the resolution, cable and display setting combos to see if I can get it even better but out of box I am pleasantly surprised. Picture reminds me of the quality one would get from a 50+" CRT big screen TV about 6 or so years ago.

4) Fan Noise: I read in this forum about various problems here. With my unit, there is the slightest fan noise when operating but quite frankly we can only hear it if for some reason there is a scene with no audio or while waiting for the PJ to power down after use. I am measuring noise from 3 feet distance from PJ

5). Other Problems Identified in this Forum: So far I have not seen evidence of any of the issues other owners have listed in this thread. I am crossing my fingers I will not get any but will devote some time once all hooked up permenantly to test out the unit in much greater detail.

Finally just wanted to say thanks to all the forum contributors who posted or PM'd me their expertise, feedback and own personal experiences. The information really helped me in my decision and planning. Much appreciated. :)

I will post a follow-up update in a few weeks time once I get more familiar with all the unit features and possibilities :D

I finally got my panny from Costco and am thinking of returning it. I was borrowing a HP6320 and the Panny did not look as good as the less expensive HP box. I tried calibrating it but I am afraid I have the deaded VB syndrome. Does it show up as very fine vertical lines. I can't really describe it but it just doesn't have the snap that the HP box has. Although I like the overall useability better. Should I try another one or just go with the HP??? with a 4 year extended warranty. I will try to do a better side by side with the HP box tonight and see if I can isolate the difference.

Christopher

I finally got my panny from Costco and am thinking of returning it. I was borrowing a HP6320 and the Panny did not look as good as the less expensive HP box. I tried calibrating it but I am afraid I have the deaded VB syndrome. Does it show up as very fine vertical lines. I can't really describe it but it just doesn't have the snap that the HP box has. Although I like the overall useability better. Should I try another one or just go with the HP??? with a 4 year extended warranty. I will try to do a better side by side with the HP box tonight and see if I can isolate the difference.

Christopher

You *are* comparing a PJ designed for Business vs. one for HT. Therefore you prefer brighter pics (HT units are generally designed for lower output). Along with this comes poor colour calibration and, lower lumens once calibrated (this is true of all Projectors). Luckily it has DVI (HDCP) so you might be somewhat future proof. I don't know the speed of the colour wheel so with luck you might escape rainbows. The aspect ratio is 4:3. I think you are comparing Apples to Orangutans.

If you prefer the look of DLP over the 900 you might give consideration to the Infocus line of pjs designed for HT.

EDIT: Should have mentioned the HP you mention is noisey by today's HT standards.

If you do plan to do a side by side - which says little btw as they are calibrated for entirely different purposes - *do* make sure you block the light output from one when viewing the other as the output from the second PJ is likely to washout the other. In this case that would be the 900 as it has better calibration and lower lumens.

ted

Ted, so do you think that the VB problems are not an issue here. Would it be more noticable than what I am seeing? I just want to make sure that the PQ is not as good because of setup or does this box have a problem and I need to replace it with another one. I really like the panny's capabilities but the PQ seems to be lacking. The HP does a very good job and no rainbow efffect. The only problem that I have seen so far is the dark shadows tend to have a green cast to them.

Ted, so do you think that the VB problems are not an issue here. Would it be more noticable than what I am seeing? I just want to make sure that the PQ is not as good because of setup or does this box have a problem and I need to replace it with another one. I really like the panny's capabilities but the PQ seems to be lacking. The HP does a very good job and no rainbow efffect. The only problem that I have seen so far is the dark shadows tend to have a green cast to them.

I was commenting solely on your comparison and why it might not be valid. Those comments still stand. If you prefer the HP then that is your choice - it is not setup as an HT pj however. It is why I suggested you look to the Infocus line for HT which *are* well calibrated out of the box and are designed for HT.

As to VB (or any issue for that matter), of course you are rightfully concerned, but be aware of the shortfalls of your methods. VB can be dealt with - can the HP be calibrated for D65 Colour Temp? If it is possible how then will it compare with the 900. One is 4:3 the other is 16:9, is this what you want? If I were you I would extend my research beyond these two units.

ted

Well after 5 weeks I just found out that my 900 is unserviceable for my lamp circuit issue.

According to Panasonic Canada I am to be issued a new unit from my dealer.

I have had a very frustrating time dealing with the local Panasonic Rep (as useless as a one legged man at an a$$ kicking competition) and also my dealer....they have been telling me for the last 2 weeks that my unit has been repaired and is in transit back to them (a one day affair)

I am going to pursue either a full refund or a new D5 Hitatchi unit.

I will hopefully find out more tomorrow.

A couple of questions before I pull the trigger on an AE900:
1. My most important pet peeve: Has anyone seen any "scanline effect" of vertical pans on the AE900? Meaning, when there is motion vertically, have people seen any breakdown of the image in the way of horizontal lines breaking up the image while in movement?
2. What is the definition of "VB" that I've heard mention of. Projector central says that there was no vertical banding noticed on this unit, is that simply untrue?
3. What are HTPC users setting their desktop resolution to? Will I need a special video card to get a 16x9 ratio? If I use a 4:3 resolution, does the projector automatically re-scale it to 16x9?
4. I read a lot on this thread about convergence issues. Was this a bad batch that went out or should I expect a 25% chance that me AE900 would have issues with it's convergence?

just got my panny and have it connected via 13m hdmi cable to a denon 1920...
I can see a purple line on the top of the picture and a yellow line at the right edge. It is most obvious when viewing a 2.35 movie. I have less than 10hrs on it. Could it be a defect or a misalignment? Will it go away after i put more hours into the unit?

Try connecting it to another player or computer, see if the line is still there. Does the projector project the same lines when you just project a blue screen (I dont own an AE900 so not sure if it actually projects blue when there's no input)?
You might also try another cable, say, a simple s-video cable to a more basic dvd player, to eliminate the possibility that your HDMI cable is somehow faulty.

It also can be an artifact in the transmission. I see it on my Samsung OTA unit via component. As the station switches between their 480i upconverted commercials and the HD show it comes and goes. Saem channel a different HD show may not have it at all. CSI last week or one of those shows had a 1 pixel vertical line on the left that was orange. ??? Switching between 1080i and 720P output on the tuner did not help. I've never seen it anywhere on my Oppo via DVI at 720P.

Here's my follow-up on my returned AE900 unit. I received today a Z4 and here are my findings. I tested HDMI and RGB from computer:

- Z4 is much sharper. Almost too sharp whereas the AE900 I thought little bit soft
- Z4 colors out of the box are pretty horrible in my opinion. White is not even white
in most settings. Obviously calibration is needed. AE900 was fine out of the box.
- Fan noise was not bad with Z4 but I think my AE900 was defect since the pure
fan noise was about the same. I just heard the iris all the time on the AE900
- The Z4 is definitely less capable of displaying dark scenes.
- The Z4 wasn't much darker overall than the AE900. I agree with the projectorcentral review that in bright scenes the Z4 appears brighter but the opposite is true for dark scenes.

I have a hard time deciding between the two. The AE900 had only 2 flaws I found and that was fan noise and sharpness. The fan noise should have been a defect.

Thanks for the replies. I'll try it later with component. If it still doesn't work I'll try another player to narrow down the cause.

Chris and I did a shootout tonight between the ae900, his hp 6320 DLP, and my Panny 75U. (Very coincidentally he lives right down the street from me) Now keep in mind we were using the RGB input from a PC radeon card as we didn't have an HDMI cable available at the time.
I felt the ae900 had the best blacks and shadow detail but the 6320 had the sharpest, poppiest, punchiest image and colors. Almost makes me want to go DLP as I imagine a 16x9 DLP projector , but I dont want to chance that any of my family would be susceptiple to the rainbow/headaches. The picture quality wasnt quite enough difference for me to justify upgrading but I am tired of my 4:3 projector and want something that's 16:9. The image of the ae900 was distinctly softer on the windows desktop, the icons seemed almost out of focus. This didn't happen on my older 75u and I assume it woud have been sharper using hdmi.

Ready to order before the rebate ends March 31st.
I would love to see some pics of windows desktop displayed using 2 res modes.
1280x720 & 1920x1080 (specially)

I assume 720 is native but I Truly wana push it to use 1920x1080 windows desktop. Or is this misleading info.

The PDF specs for this projector interested me: (SEE ATTACHED)
Resolution: RGB: 1280 x 720 pixels (1920 x 1080 pixels with compression)
Pixels: 921,600 (1280 x 720) x 3, total of 2,764,800 pixels

I assume windows looks best in 1280x720 via DVI to HDMI adapter?
or are we stuck using VGA cable?

My 4 DAY OLD AE 900 is PERFECT ! Make 100% sure you are using a Quality power surge conditioner/line conditioner. A quality receiver. And all Quality HDMI cables. With all of this, my PJ is AWESOME. VERY CLEAR, PERFECT COLORS (CINEMA 1,ETC) NO VB, NOTHING WRONG. ABSOLUTELY 100% PERFECT ! ! !

A couple of questions before I pull the trigger on an AE900:
1. My most important pet peeve: Has anyone seen any "scanline effect" of vertical pans on the AE900? Meaning, when there is motion vertically, have people seen any breakdown of the image in the way of horizontal lines breaking up the image while in movement?

I own a 700 but the 900 is really just a refinement of the same chassis.

In all my reading regarding the 900 I've yet to see 'peekaboo' scanlines mentioned. I'm quite familiar with it on my 700. My HT is subject to wide thermal swings and it impacts on their appearance. The FLICKER settings are directly related to their appearance (the impact on VB is a byproduct as its the same subsystem that is being tuned - panel clock timing/phase if you are interested). For me its a little bit of effort - I've tuned my setup for about 20 minutes warm up an provide it with that. Its my impression, given the lack of comment, that this has been solved. In the summer when my basement bijou temp is stable it disappears. My point is, if you are particularly sensitive to this, it *can* be fine tuned.

2. What is the definition of "VB" that I've heard mention of. Projector central says that there was no vertical banding noticed on this unit, is that simply untrue?

This is unit/panel dependent and is still present but it seems that the situation is better than the 700. Be sure your dealer has a return policy that is acceptable to you.

3. What are HTPC users setting their desktop resolution to? Will I need a special video card to get a 16x9 ratio? If I use a 4:3 resolution, does the projector automatically re-scale it to 16x9?

1:1 mapping (1280 x 720p) is considered best as it bypasses the the pj's internal scaler. Any modern vid card should be able to do this. I've used an ATI 9500 PRO and currently use an Nvidia 6600GT. If you plan to use it for DVD playback be sure to investigate FFDSHOW (video processing). To use ffdshow will require at least a 3K CPU to take advantage of it. CPU is what you need not vid card.

Any input is automatically scaled to 16:9. You can run a 1280 x 1024 setup and using V_SCROLL on the pj, scroll a 16:9 window on that desktop - has to run VGA however.

I've run both VGA and HDMI from my PC, I prefer the HDMI. At my cable length (25 ft) VGA, being an analog source had too much ringing for my taste. This may have been card dependent - this was when I ran my ATI card - I switched to HDMI and recently purchased my 6600GT which I've not tried on VGA.

If you wish to pursue what I've suggested in more detail I recommend AVS's HTPC forum (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=&f=26).

ted

Does anyone know if there is a Equipment Code to plug into the Panny AE900 Remote to control basic functions of the Oppo 971 DVD player? I also kneed one for my Harmon Kardon AVR 635 AV Amp.

Any help is much appreciated.

Anyone?

Anyone?

Isn't the 900's remote of the "learning" type? If so this should be fairly straight forward.

ted

Has anyone had any luck using this projector with MyHD130 with dvi output. Is there a workaround to fix the centering issue.

I'm about to try vga, but it will be a 50" run.

Ready to order before the rebate ends March 31st.
I would love to see some pics of windows desktop displayed using 2 res modes.
1280x720 & 1920x1080 (specially)

I assume 720 is native but I Truly wana push it to use 1920x1080 windows desktop. Or is this misleading info.

The PDF specs for this projector interested me: (SEE ATTACHED)
Resolution: RGB: 1280 x 720 pixels (1920 x 1080 pixels with compression)
Pixels: 921,600 (1280 x 720) x 3, total of 2,764,800 pixels

I assume windows looks best in 1280x720 via DVI to HDMI adapter?
or are we stuck using VGA cable?

I tried using RGB and it didn't look bad but to me it always looked slightly fuzzy. Like the difference between CRT and LCD computer monitor.

I have to say though that my video card only allowed 1280x768 but I could choose to crop the extra lines (aspect). This was the best resolution for me (1:1).

Any other resolution though will not look great especially with text since it will have to reduce the resolution to display it. So higher doesn't make sense I think since you'll lose the resolution anyway...

I have to say though that my video card only allowed 1280x768 but I could choose to crop the extra lines (aspect). This was the best resolution for me (1:1).



What vid card and what drivers? Cards within the last two years with recent drivers *should* present you with 1280 x 720p when setup cprrectly. Barring that there are utilities that can force the same.

Did you ever try what I suggested with regards to your 2.35 source?

ted

Luc48's assessment of the Z4 very much concurs with what I found in my review of the Z4 late last year... I am only surprised by the comment that the Z4 is brighter on bright scenes... I'll take that to mean that the Z4's gamma, most likely makes the bright scenes seem brighter in terms of balance between dark and light areas - how sunny a day appears, etc., for the Panasonic in best mode is the brighter of the two projectors.

And the Sanyo Z4 is definitely sharper than the Panny - although I should note that the difference seemed to larger to me on DVD material than HD material... When I reviewed the 900u, though I was using a Bravo D2 DVD player and feeding 480i to the Panny and letting it do the work... I now use an Oppo, and output 720p.... I haven't had a Panny in a while, but I'll bet it helps... Still, the Panny isn't as sharp as the Z4 on HD either, but relatively close... I suspect those "Smooth Screen" lcd's to be the cause.

For those shopping and trying to figure out which to buy, in addition to the reviews of both of those (and other) projectors on my site, I recently posted two or three additional articles that may help. Most recently a comparison look at the four hot under $2K projectors: Z4 900u, PE7700 and HD72... It's relatively short and summarizes the strengths and weaknesses of each unit compared to the others.

The others are two articles Sanyo Z4 - Who should buy, and Panasonic PTAE900u - who should buy... Since those two projectorss orginial reviews were getting old, these articles take a quick look at how each of them compare to the current competition. Sort of a single projector concentric look... "If I was going to buy the Panasonic, what how would it compare to these others".

Some of you may find these useful... Remember, they are one man's opinion... Have fun.

What vid card and what drivers? Cards within the last two years with recent drivers *should* present you with 1280 x 720p when setup cprrectly. Barring that there are utilities that can force the same.

Did you ever try what I suggested with regards to your 2.35 source?

ted
It's a Dell 700m notebook. Now the weird thing it's a widescreen notebook! The Z4 reacts even stranger to the 1280x764. It reports it as 1360x764 and truncated the screen (but looks very sharp). So have to research how I get widescreen from the RGB output with this notebook...

Re 2:35 I already returned it since the fan noise was too bad. It made a loud shaving noise most of the time.
I noticed the Z4 has the same 2:35 aspect issue but I could fix with more aspect options. I'm sure the AE900 should be able to tackle this as well.

I decided to keep the Z4 since I thought I couldn't live with the constant slight fuzziness (and I might be more perceptive to that having contacts:-).
But I actually can see that others would prefer the AE900. If the AE900 would have been sharper (and fan noise fixed) I would have kept it. The colors were more natural and appeared to be better range. Especially dark scenes looked great.

Regarding my comment about Z4 brighter I have to admit I compared using the dynamic & power mode settings. The Z4 power mode setting appeared to be much brighter than any AE900 mode. The cinema settings is another story:-(.

....And the Sanyo Z4 is definitely sharper than the Panny - although I should note that the difference seemed to larger to me on DVD material than HD material... When I reviewed the 900u, though I was using a Bravo D2 DVD player and feeding 480i to the Panny and letting it do the work... I now use an Oppo, and output 720p.... I haven't had a Panny in a while, but I'll bet it helps... Still, the Panny isn't as sharp as the Z4 on HD either, but relatively close... I suspect those "Smooth Screen" lcd's to be the cause.
...

I tested 480i s-video, 720p HDMI & 1080i HDMI. The AE900 is little bit sharper on HDMI but still there's fuzziness. Also RGB looked to me fuzzy. It's like switching your fonts in windows to cleartype (smoother but less sharp).
I also noticed the larger the screen size the more fuzzy it got (about < 80" it didn't look fuzzy anymore). Initially I thought that's normal since the material was not HD. But on the Z4 I did not notice that (instead more noise).

I wish the smoothscreen would be adjustable...

Luc,

What is your seating ratio?

Another factor is SDE sort of increasese apparent sharpness by itself as it gives more of a hard boundry between pixels. Kind of like an optical edge enhancement. Some people like that look (when the SDE isn't bad enough to be distracting) and some people prefer the smoother look.

Shawn

Luc,

What is your seating ratio?

Another factor is SDE sort of increasese apparent sharpness by itself as it gives more of a hard boundry between pixels. Kind of like an optical edge enhancement. Some people like that look (when the SDE isn't bad enough to be distracting) and some people prefer the smoother look.

Shawn

Absolutely true. For my taste the panasonic went little bit overboard and I tried increasing the sharpness to fullest but it didn't have same effect (more noise but still fuzzy). Certainly a personal taste and unfortunately there aren't many stored to compare for yourself.

Distance is roughly 14' and the projector was at 17' on a high shelf. The screen size about 122". I couldn't see any pixels until I was really close. Less than 9' I think. I don't see how SDE is a factor with this resolution unless you really want to sit super close.

One comment on the projectorReview comparison AE900/Z4. The images compared next to each other are certainly representative. However, those are shot with the cinema mode which is pretty dark on the Z4. The living, dynamic modes on the Z4 are much, much brighter. Still have to calibrate though how much I can keep this brightness. At first glance though these modes are close enough.

UPS just delivered my AE900, which I'll be trying out tonight. This was an impulse buy, as my RPTV was unexpectedly easy to sell on Craigslist, and the projector price after rebate was too good to pass up.

I'm going to work my way through the thread, but I have two quick questions and no time to do a proper search today:

* First, can someone recommend a good pull-down screen in the $200 range? Visual Apex recommended the DaLite hi-contrast.

* Secondly, for ceiling mounting, is there a risk of using a long power cord (20'+) or should I have an outlet installed in the ceiling near the mount?

My goal this weekend is to figure out if I can run cables behind the wall and ceiling to my AV rack. It's a longshot, but I have a canister light near the mount position, and I want to peak in there to see how it looks. There's also power there I may be able to tap into...

Absolutely true. For my taste the panasonic went little bit overboard and I tried increasing the sharpness to fullest but it didn't have same effect (more noise but still fuzzy). Certainly a personal taste and unfortunately there aren't many stored to compare for yourself.

Distance is roughly 14' and the projector was at 17' on a high shelf. The screen size about 122". I couldn't see any pixels until I was really close. Less than 9' I think. I don't see how SDE is a factor with this resolution unless you really want to sit super close.

One comment on the projectorReview comparison AE900/Z4. The images compared next to each other are certainly representative. However, those are shot with the cinema mode which is pretty dark on the Z4. The living, dynamic modes on the Z4 are much, much brighter. Still have to calibrate though how much I can keep this brightness. At first glance though these modes are close enough.
I have had 2 Panasonic 900's my first one was quite a bit less sharp than the one I have now. I don't know if the first one had prisim or optic problems, but doing a A, B test showed a pretty big sharpness difference.

Please do not make me read this entire thread :)

I still own the 700 but Im hopeing the service menu on the 900 are simular so everyone can relate to my question.

While in the service menu the Sony 51 and RUby allow to further adjust the dynamic iris to
open it up or clamp it down more for deeper blacks ect.
Anyone find any such settings in the 700 or 900s service menu.

Thanks everyone..

Alan,

Lets introduce you to the search button.... ;)

Nope, the service menus people have found so far don't have any settings like what are available in the Sonys. Just two basic settings to adjust flicker and panel adjustments for VB.

There is apparently software that can adjust other things in the Panasonic but I haven't seen that software out in the wild yet.

Shawn

Thanks Shawn :)

UPS just delivered my AE900, which I'll be trying out tonight. This was an impulse buy, as my RPTV was unexpectedly easy to sell on Craigslist, and the projector price after rebate was too good to pass up.

I'm going to work my way through the thread, but I have two quick questions and no time to do a proper search today:

* First, can someone recommend a good pull-down screen in the $200 range? Visual Apex recommended the DaLite hi-contrast.

* Secondly, for ceiling mounting, is there a risk of using a long power cord (20'+) or should I have an outlet installed in the ceiling near the mount?

My goal this weekend is to figure out if I can run cables behind the wall and ceiling to my AV rack. It's a longshot, but I have a canister light near the mount position, and I want to peak in there to see how it looks. There's also power there I may be able to tap into...

I can't help you with the screen except to say I built my 93" one for under that cost. The problem with a roll up is it will have a tendency to not stay flat.

I use a 14 guage power cord on mine which I think is more than suffient. I do have it plugged into a backup power supply.

I have been 5 weeks without my projector (faulty lamp circuit). Panasonic Canada deemed it not repairable so I was to be given a new one from my dealer...of course the local Panasonic rep who swore up and down he would take care of me dropped the ball and never informed my dealer about this.

So, I was some ticked and decided to give the Hitachi HDPJ52 a try. I had the Hitachi in my setup for the afternoon but soon realized that it just wasn't going to work in my setup....Too much screendoor. So it was boxed back up and I went and picked up my new 900. For some reason this unit appears to be sharper looking than my old unit....I just hope that the lamp circuit holds out as I never want to have to deal with my Panasonic rep again.

I finally have a front projection system setup. I have the Panny 900 paired with a 92” Stewart screen with the studiotek material. I am sitting approx. 1.5 times screen width.

I previously considered getting the Toshiba 700 or BenQ 7700 but the bulb problems have long scared me away. I also think I’m sensitive to DLP technology. The first time I watched a movie with the Toshiba 700 gave me a headache and a sick feeling. I'm not sure if this is due to DLP.

So I got the Panny and screen last week. After some minor tweaking to the contrast, brightness, and colour temperature, the picture is absolutely fantastic in cinema 1 mode. It is much better than I imagined it would be. Even the black bars on the top and bottom of a 2:35:1 movie is pretty close to black. It is not long ago that these LCDs were very grey or bluish grey on the black bars. The focus is sharp just running component inputs from a DVD player. The colours seem really good - this is probably the greatest attribute of this projector – much more accurate and saturated than the Toshiba 700 that I saw in a comparable setup. And so far, no banding or weird noises.

With some of the complaints about the 900s sharpness, I wonder how variable the units are. Mine seems quite sharp. Either the same sharpness or sharper than my friend's Toshiba 700.

Colour uniformity is not perfect. You can see on a white test screen that the left hand side if slightly more red than the right. Very minor though. Not noticable even on white splash screens during movie watching -- ie. Pixel Works intro. on Monster's Inc.

Been around since the first days of AVS but seldom post. Have forgotten my handle several times. This new one should be easy to remember.

Thank for your comment but you the panny 900 is able to hit that 1920x1080 res for windows desktop even if it doesnt look that great text wise?

Meaning it will display full res without it scrolling the desktop?

Love to see some pics digital photos of windows of this projector.

Hey fridaylights, did you own a PJ before the ae900? I own a 75u which was "all the rave" back in 2002 and I'm not sure yet if I can justify spending the $$ with the amount of picture improvement that the ae900 gives me.
It *is* a noticeable improvement but I was expecting to really be more wow'ed than I was. I definitely do not want to mess with DLP even though the two times I've seen one in action I felt the picture was extra specially good. When we watch movies we have lots of friends over or kids friends so I dont want to give anyone headaches.

I am very curious too about what 1920x1080 looks like on the ae900. A lot of times if you push a projector past it's native resolution there is tearing and artifacts with rapid horizontal or vertical motion on the projected image.

Is there a specific thread for AE900 & HTPC users? I'm curious what the best video card to use is in my PC, and the best DVD playing software?

Hey fridaylights, did you own a PJ before the ae900? I own a 75u which was "all the rave" back in 2002 and I'm not sure yet if I can justify spending the $$ with the amount of picture improvement that the ae900 gives me.
It *is* a noticeable improvement but I was expecting to really be more wow'ed than I was. I definitely do not want to mess with DLP even though the two times I've seen one in action I felt the picture was extra specially good. When we watch movies we have lots of friends over or kids friends so I dont want to give anyone headaches.

Jude,

Never owned a projector before. Have had 50" RPTVs one of them HD and a current 34" HD direct view. Maybe you should try to see another setup with the AE900.

My screen might also be helping my projector out in some ways. The screen is almost twice as expensive as the Panny. If you read Projector Central's review on screens, the Stewart Studiotek had even better detail and resolution. Kind of hard to believe.

I knew going in that I was going to take a gamble on the Panny. It might have some quality control issues but I also didn't want to take a chance on DLP. I believe sooner or later you will see rainbows. Just ask owners of DLP. I also think viewing LCD is more relaxed. But that's just me. I know I can't stand low refresh rates on computer CRT monitors ie. when Windows 3.1 came out. You point that out to other people and they sometimes didn't even notice.

I like to think of it this way. It seems that some are good and some are not as good. If you remember back in the days of CRT computer monitors, quality varied greatly from one to the next in the same model. Maybe the same applies to these projectors.

Never saw the 75u. But if go back to 2002, I think projectors have come a long way. Approx. back then, even a 12 grand Sharpvision DLP (can't remember the chip) didn't even produce as nice of a picture as this Panny. I'm sure it was also ISF calibrated as this store has always had the best setups and equipment. 200K plus worth of equipment in these rooms. Unbelievable store. But I'm getting off-topic.

For reference to other LCDs, the Sanyo Z3 had noticeble screen-door at far distance and colours were badly off on a matte white screen. Blacks were very bluish grey. Not sure how well calibrated this one was though. The Panny is very good out the box. They spent their time tweaking the colours as advertised.

For now, I have my fingers crossed and hope that I don't have any LCD related problems down the road.

I Guess I Just Got One That Is Clear. I Have Pj Lens Centered To The Screen. I Am Using Top Quality Electronics, Etc. The Panasonic S 97 Dvd Player Is Great. I Have Perfect Vision, I Am A 26 Year Journeyman Printer. All 6 Of My Familty Members Who Have Watched Many Movies In The Last 5 Days Says Its Very Clear!
You Don't Have To Make Rude Comments. I Have Viewed 20+ Projectors From $1200-$30,000 And Its Very Close To The Best One.

Setting up my 900 now... Can someone point me to an overview of optimum settings? I've tried searching for this but can't find anything comprehensive. This is an epic thread.

I just recieved my AE900U on Friday the OTB picture is great, and so far I'm loving it, but this morning I noticed that when the PJ is throwing a dark colored image, that there is a small approx 2"x2" red spot on my image. At first I thought it was a reflection from some other HT device's red led, but after inspecting it, it is definitely coming from the projector...

It's a dull red spot, and it just looks like a circular red glow, it's not very bright and it only shows up when that portion of the screen is displaying a dark picture. I will try to get a pic of it to show you guys, but does anybody have any idea what it could be?

Visual Apex's policy says they will replace any Panasonic product that is found to be defective so it shouldn't be a problem getting it replaced. I'd just like to know, is this a regular thing with the 900U? Is this something that will possibly go away by itself? Or what exactly could it be, and could I have caused this somehow?

Also, I've noticed a slight smell of hot electronics, just wondering if this is normal...I have my PJ running in low power mode.

Thanks for any help you guys can give me.

Dust blob most likely. I had a big green one right out of the box on the first unit I received. Projector People swapped it out for me no problem.

Shawn

I have had 2 Panasonic 900's my first one was quite a bit less sharp than the one I have now. I don't know if the first one had prisim or optic problems, but doing a A, B test showed a pretty big sharpness difference.

Interesting. Most reviews say the AE900 is sharp enough (or just slightly less sharp than Z4). So it's possible mine was defect. The (iris) fan noise was definitely bad. But I don't want to order another one until I have one that might be completely working unfortunately. Wish they had stores so you could be sure.

Wish they had stores so you could be sure.

Ya think one of the major chains BEST BUY would buy these suckers up!

Come one.. See before ya buy This is the best rated HD solution for any home.
Hell I'll wana take this unit outside during the summer by the pool!

Is there any way to clean it out myself if it's just dust? (canned air or something?) After reading some of the stuff people are saying I'm a little scared to send mine back because the fan is super quiet, and the picture is sharp as a razor. This is with my xbox 360. (My 360 is probably 3-4 times louder than my projector...Plus when you got the surround up can you even hear the fan anymore anyways??

Well i am back,after posting earlier in the week about a "FLASH" problem i have since rechecked the HDMI cable and other connectors with no results.I get Dynamic Iris noise when the picture is changing bright to dark scenes getting louder,kinda sounds like a loud hard drive on a pc.I also notice a drop off in sharpness since i first got my projector,pictures is more blurred now and colors bleed.I have done all adjustments necessary.I am starting to think upgrading my 700 to the 900 was a mistake.With my 700,i had the lastest firmware and put 200 hrs. on it with no problem,the 700 seemed now to me to have a sharper picture,blacks are better on the 900 as are the colors but these other problems are annoying,looks like i will be sending in for repairs,the unit is only 3 months old with 60 hrs. on it,problems started right after about 50 hrs. I do remember when i firts had it,the picture was awesome,colors were deep and solid,excellent contrast.Just curious,what is everyone getting on there bulb temperatures,i am back wall mounted becasue of vaulted ceiling about 7 1/2 feet from the floor,plenty of air flow aand my bulb is running 151 f.Is this normal or what is the average temp this projector should be running,i am also running low lamp mode with low fan.This is gonna blow,now i will be waiting probaly 2 months to get this back as like i said,i only have 60 hrs on the darn thing.

Is there any way to clean it out myself if it's just dust? (canned air or something?) After reading some of the stuff people are saying I'm a little scared to send mine back because the fan is super quiet, and the picture is sharp as a razor. This is with my xbox 360. (My 360 is probably 3-4 times louder than my projector...Plus when you got the surround up can you even hear the fan anymore anyways??


I had the exact same dust bolb. Round red glowing spot on a black screen. I removed the housing and used canned air to blow out the area directly behind the lens and it went away. When you reomve the casing remember to remove the lens offset knob. Just loosen it completly while gently tugging on it. It'll pop right out.

Elio

hi, guys! I have posted this in a thread by itself but no one is helping so I am hoping someone does here...my screen from ground to top of viewing area is 74" -couldn't go any higher because of kneewall situation. The projector would be mounted 15 foot back and here is the problem..there is a riser for 2nd set of seats and the riser starts 13ft back and is 12" off the ground that means that in order to get the projector at about the top of screen it will be 20" down from ceing or 62" from floor of riser. In other words in the way of somebody smacking their heads on it when they stand up..
I have already been schooled on "don't tilt the projector and stay away from the keystone adjustment" and I am afraid I will be beyond the lenshift abilities if I put it higher like 10" from ceiling or 72" from floor of riser...

HELP- husband upset and ready to say SCREW IT! :(

Have you tried the lens shift adjustment? I'm not sure, but I think that has less of a negative effect on the picture than actually tilting the projector itself. You should not have to use the kestone adj. if the shift is used. I know that not having the lens "dead-on" is supposed to make the image less clear, but I think at times people have a tendency to split hairs. My setup is near center but a bit high causing me to shift the lens down a little and I'm happy with my picture. It could be a more aggresive shift would have neg. effects but I would give it a try.
Mike

hi, guys! I have posted this in a thread by itself but no one is helping so I am hoping someone does here...my screen from ground to top of viewing area is 74" -couldn't go any higher because of kneewall situation. The projector would be mounted 15 foot back and here is the problem..there is a riser for 2nd set of seats and the riser starts 13ft back and is 12" off the ground that means that in order to get the projector at about the top of screen it will be 20" down from ceing or 62" from floor of riser. In other words in the way of somebody smacking their heads on it when they stand up..
I have already been schooled on "don't tilt the projector and stay away from the keystone adjustment" and I am afraid I will be beyond the lenshift abilities if I put it higher like 10" from ceiling or 72" from floor of riser...

HELP- husband upset and ready to say SCREW IT! :(

In regards to lens shift for this PJ. MAX VERTICLE shift will place the center of the lens just above or just below the screen by a few inches (depending on how the pj is mounted and which way the verticle lens shift is applied). Since you are saying that your screen is 74" high and your PJ will sit 62" high (from the riser), you will be within the parameters for using the lens shift. I have mine at about 90% max verticle lens shift and have not noticed the image appearing fuzzy or less sharp (I guess it depends on how anal you are and how good your eyes are).

I have heard that maxing out the lens shift hurts the image quality, so I would keep it at the 62".

FYI, my setup has the PJ on a shelf right above my sofa. The PJ sits about 4 1/2-5 feet above the ground and no one has hit their head on the shelf getting up. If you think about it, when one gets up they usually lean forward a bit.

hi, guys! I have posted this in a thread by itself but no one is helping so I am hoping someone does here...my screen from ground to top of viewing area is 74" -couldn't go any higher because of kneewall situation. The projector would be mounted 15 foot back and here is the problem..there is a riser for 2nd set of seats and the riser starts 13ft back and is 12" off the ground that means that in order to get the projector at about the top of screen it will be 20" down from ceing or 62" from floor of riser. In other words in the way of somebody smacking their heads on it when they stand up..
I have already been schooled on "don't tilt the projector and stay away from the keystone adjustment" and I am afraid I will be beyond the lenshift abilities if I put it higher like 10" from ceiling or 72" from floor of riser...

HELP- husband upset and ready to say SCREW IT! :(


Don't fear the lens shift. My projector is 6" from the ceiling and I have the shift all the way down. Slight bowing is all I get at the bottom and I just blew up the image a little and had it disappear into the black liner around the screen. Give it a shot. MUCH better than tilting the projector.

Elio

thx guys that makes me breathe easier-- if I have this PJ 14 foot from lens to screen instead of 15 am I still ok? I would feel better...remember 112" wide sceen but only 56" tall ??(wanted to get the best of the 16:9 and 2:35 world :-)

I had the exact same dust bolb. Round red glowing spot on a black screen. I removed the housing and used canned air to blow out the area directly behind the lens and it went away. When you reomve the casing remember to remove the lens offset knob. Just loosen it completly while gently tugging on it. It'll pop right out.

Elio

Thanks Elio, do you know if taking the housing off will void my warranty?

Thanks

Thanks Elio, do you know if taking the housing off will void my warranty?

Thanks

I assume it will. But at the same time there's really no way to tell you took it off. Unless you scribble "I was here" inside the PJ... hehe.. But seriously, the screws aren't marked. Just be careful while you're in there. I actually bought one of those CO2 cartridge thingys cause they don't shoot air as forcefully as canned air.

E

I assume it will. But at the same time there's really no way to tell you took it off. Unless you scribble "I was here" inside the PJ... hehe.. But seriously, the screws aren't marked. Just be careful while you're in there. I actually bought one of those CO2 cartridge thingys cause they don't shoot air as forcefully as canned air.

E


Well this weekend I followed the service manual to a tee. I even took off the top circuit board to get to the optical block and the polarizers/panels. Carefully blew those parts out and low and behold..... I still have a blue dust blob on the top of the image (near the 2.35:1 bars)

I guess mines going in to Heartland soon!!!


Rob

Well this weekend I followed the service manual to a tee. I even took off the top circuit board to get to the optical block and the polarizers/panels. Carefully blew those parts out and low and behold..... I still have a blue dust blob on the top of the image (near the 2.35:1 bars)

I guess mines going in to Heartland soon!!!


Rob

I had to do it twice to get to the dust blob I had. The first time it was gone when I turned it on and then suddenly popped back onscreen in a different location. Blew it out a second time and it was gone. Sorry it didn't work for you. This type of thing is such a pain cause it's such a stupid little thing you'd think there would be an easy way to take care of it.

E

Ya think one of the major chains BEST BUY would buy these suckers up!

Come one.. See before ya buy This is the best rated HD solution for any home.
Hell I'll wana take this unit outside during the summer by the pool!

If you mean because it's top rated you can't go wrong then these forums proof you wrong... Both the Z4 and AE900 had unhappy customers and both units are quite different causing different personal preferences. So reviews didn't help me much.

I love Costco return policy but I couldn't quickly exchange my defect AE900 (got refund and would have to re-order myself). It sounded like a hard disk drive instant I turned it on. I'm now pretty happy with Z4 after I tweaked it to look more like the AE900. I'd have kept the AE900 wouldn't have been for the fan defect and sharpness issues (with HDMI).

I am having one problem with my ae900. Using the HDMI connector going from the DVI on my computer (ATI 9800 pro/newest driver), whenever I restart the pc it always goes back to 640x480 resolution. I can change it to 1280x720 and it looks great but this is a pain!

I hooked up the same setup to a 19 inch Dell (flat panel/DVI) and it remembers the 1280x720. It must be the projector? Anyone else have a similar setup working? Eric

Well this weekend I followed the service manual to a tee. I even took off the top circuit board to get to the optical block and the polarizers/panels. Carefully blew those parts out and low and behold..... I still have a blue dust blob on the top of the image (near the 2.35:1 bars)

I guess mines going in to Heartland soon!!!


Rob

It may not be dust. I could be stuck blue pixels.

Is it at all uniform in shape?

Concerning the overscan-function: I noticed that when I turn it off, a small black frame builds up around the whole screen so that the 16:9 panel is no longer fully used ...
Is this normal ?
Is there any possibility to turn overscan off and still make the picture fit into the full panel resolution without having to zoom it ???

I have this too. Depending on whether the DVD is 1.85:1 or 2.35:1, I'll get bigger or smaller black bars on the side of the picture. The 16:9 screen is no longer fully used. But when I turn on overscan, I lose part of the picture.

Well I have the PJ and I am trying to decided on my screen. I am thinking about the Carada Criterion Series BW 104 in diag, 1.85 to 1. My viewing distance is 15 ft. and I have good control of light. I could go larger maybe 118" and not sure if the BW is what to get . Any advise would be greatly appreciated as it is my first.

I have an 118" BW, and although I'm very pleased with it (it's a bargain and the build quality is exceptional) I would go with their other screen material in the future. I'm not too happy with the black level, although that may be something more related to the projector (this is my first). Since I watch a lot of horror/scifi, black makes up the majority of images, and it's a little too gray to my liking. A lower gain screen than their BW would probably have been better for me.

...I have my case off...which part do I need to blow out???

Sorry for the newb questions here guys but it's regarding a Panny AE900.

I have 2 places where I could put my Panny but I'm not sure if one's better than the other. My screen (100") will be a paint on with HD Silverscreen paint with a black velvet border. My basement has controlled lighting (only 1 window), walls are taupe and carpet is taupe color too.

My regular basement ceiling height is 90". I could put the panny there but that would mean my throw back distance would only be 14' . If I back the projector up, I'd have to go where there's a boxed ceiling (for hiding duct work) which is 80" high from the floor. My throwback distance from there would be 19'.

Here are my questions:

1. On paper, the Panny says the throw back distance for 100" screen should be 20'. If I'm at 15' does it make a big difference ?

2. How low does the Panny sit from a ceiling ? If I put the Panny on the boxed ceiling to gain the extra throw back distance, will people be hitting there head on it as they walk by ?

3. Does the top of your screen have to be at the exact height of the bulb ? In other words if my Panny's bulb is sitting at 75" from the floor, can the screen height be, say, 80" from the floor ? Or maybe I should ask how low should the top of your screen be compared to the ceiling ?

4. What cables do I need to go from the Panny to the Surround Sound receiver I eventually am going to get ? And how long do they come ? I may have to do some turning and shifting when fishing this cable thru.

...I have my case off...which part do I need to blow out???

If you look at the back part of the lens assembly you'll see 3 approx. 1" wide strips that are at right angles to each other forming a 3 sided square with the lens as the fourth side. This is the optical block. Get the nozzle in there and spray in that area. Make sure you spray around at the back of the lens as well. The dust blob on my was actually behind the lens.

Good luck.

E

If you look at the back part of the lens assembly you'll see 3 approx. 1" wide strips that are at right angles to each other forming a 3 sided square with the lens as the fourth side. This is the optical block. Get the nozzle in there and spray in that area. Make sure you spray around at the back of the lens as well. The dust blob on my was actually behind the lens.

Good luck.

E
Did this and red spot is gone! Thanks a lot for the help!

2153 -- That is the maximum throw distance for a 100" screen (it has a zoom lens). First you need to download, and read, the AE900 manual (on-line from the Panasonic web site and from vendor web sites). For a 100" screen, you can mount it so the lens is anywhere between 10' and 20' from the screen. The AE900 has lens shift, which allows you to position the center of the lens anywhere from the center of the screen to 13% above, or below, the top, or bottom, of the screen. The details are on pages 18 through 21 of the manual.

You can also use the Projection Calculator (http://www.projectorcentral.com/Panasonic_Home-PT-AE900U-projection-calculator-pro.htm) (<= link) on the Projector Central's web site. This will let you see and adjust the screen to AE900 distance and screen sizes to you hearts content. It will not show you the lens shift adjustments though.

PS -- This question has been asked a number of times on this thread and on other AE900 threads in this forum.

What do you guys use to clean the lens? What about compressed air?

I couldn't see anything in the manual, and I don't own this projector (I may soon, either this one or an HC3000U), but does the optical block need airflow? If not, couldn't the openings used to blow air into the optical block be sealed to prevent dust particles from entering in?

Did this and red spot is gone! Thanks a lot for the help!


Awesome!!!

Glad I was able to help.

Elio

What do you guys use to clean the lens? What about compressed air?

I use a CO2 blower I got at Comp USA. It's not as forceful as canned air and has less potential for minute particles.

E

Hey guys,

Anyone know roughly how long it takes for Panasonic to put in the rebate info on their website where we can check the status? I sent my rebate in about 3 weeks ago and nothing is showing up. The USPS tracking number said it was delivered a couple days after mailing (hence the 3 weeks ago).

I currently have a sony changer that is 480i(component). I am wondering if I should uprade to the current model (995v) that does 720p (HDMI).

How much of a difference should I expect? Is the internal scaler/deinterlacer of the PJ much worse than a mid-range ($400) DVD player? Is HDMI going to add to the improvement?

Thanks for the feedback.

Hey guys,

Anyone know roughly how long it takes for Panasonic to put in the rebate info on their website where we can check the status? I sent my rebate in about 3 weeks ago and nothing is showing up. The USPS tracking number said it was delivered a couple days after mailing (hence the 3 weeks ago).

hahahahaha...just keep waiting and waiting...it won't show up on the website because Panasonic is incomptent and you won't be notified of whether it was accepted. We finally got ours like 3 months after we sent ours in...(sent ours in at the end of December, just got it)

Hello all,

It has been a long time coming but I finally got my room set up and tried out the panny for the first time last night. The color is very good and that 100" screen is AWESOME !!!!!!!

I do have one complaint though............The picture seems out of focus at times. If the image is up close & personal things look great. If the main image is set in the back ground, say, 10-20ft. then it is alot less sharp. Writing, like credits, is not good at all. Blurry is the word that comes to mind. I tried to refocus 15-20 times but it never got any better really. Even words on sings in the movie look that way. IS this normal ??

480p over component output

Any help would be great.

Thanks,

John

Hey guys,

Anyone know roughly how long it takes for Panasonic to put in the rebate info on their website where we can check the status? I sent my rebate in about 3 weeks ago and nothing is showing up. The USPS tracking number said it was delivered a couple days after mailing (hence the 3 weeks ago).

It took about 5 weeks for them to register my rebate, and then it was listed as a phone rebate.

I don't even know how to look it up anymore now that the site has changed!

I am having one problem with my ae900. Using the HDMI connector going from the DVI on my computer (ATI 9800 pro/newest driver), whenever I restart the pc it always goes back to 640x480 resolution. I can change it to 1280x720 and it looks great but this is a pain!

I hooked up the same setup to a 19 inch Dell (flat panel/DVI) and it remembers the 1280x720. It must be the projector? Anyone else have a similar setup working? Eric


bump

So no one has a setup like this?

well I am pretty much beyond Pi***d! I jsu got off the phone with panasonic wondering where my rebate is-- sent Dec 31 and according to postoffice received 3 days later... first they told me that they only received it into that building on Feb 7th so that is when I need to start counting and then they said "by the way your number kicked out as invalid so it was not processed" so I lost my cool and said well it's been 3 freaking months and your rebate form says 6-8 weeks and she said "oh that was a typo and should have never been printed that way" and I said so basically you are saying I can kiss my blockbuster rentals goodbye and she said " well because of problems with our system it will be extended till July 31st". I said ya right! so how long is it going to take once you present this to your manager another 12 weeks??? and she replied "0h no sir maybe a week"

again YA RIGHT BULLCRAP!! so if anyone is a smart body they will be on the phone directly with panasonic to make sure their rebate didn't kick back. :mad:

again YA RIGHT BULLCRAP!! so if anyone is a smart body they will be on the phone directly with panasonic to make sure their rebate didn't kick back. :mad:

What's the phone number. I have been waiting about 3 weeks and would like to call and make sure they have processed it.

Has anyone been able to find their rebate on the redesigned rebate site?
http://www.panasonicconsumerrebates.com/

Hello all,

It has been a long time coming but I finally got my room set up and tried out the panny for the first time last night. The color is very good and that 100" screen is AWESOME !!!!!!!

I do have one complaint though............The picture seems out of focus at times. If the image is up close & personal things look great. If the main image is set in the back ground, say, 10-20ft. then it is alot less sharp. Writing, like credits, is not good at all. Blurry is the word that comes to mind. I tried to refocus 15-20 times but it never got any better really. Even words on sings in the movie look that way. IS this normal ??

480p over component output

Any help would be great.

Thanks,

John

Probably the scaler in the projector...try feeding a signal from a better scaler or an HD signal and see if its better

Hello all,

It has been a long time coming but I finally got my room set up and tried out the panny for the first time last night. The color is very good and that 100" screen is AWESOME !!!!!!!

I do have one complaint though............The picture seems out of focus at times. If the image is up close & personal things look great. If the main image is set in the back ground, say, 10-20ft. then it is alot less sharp. Writing, like credits, is not good at all. Blurry is the word that comes to mind. I tried to refocus 15-20 times but it never got any better really. Even words on sings in the movie look that way. IS this normal ??

480p over component output

Any help would be great.

Thanks,

John

Sounds to me that the real sharpness could be the same. If it's close you do see more detail and is possible that it's only perceived as sharper since it has more detail.

I had this problem also even with HDMI input but I don't rule out my projector was broken (I didn't order another one to be sure). You could try HDMI if possible on your unit to see if that makes a difference but I'd think component should be pretty sharp as well.

I do not have a DVD player with HDMI at the moment. I was planning on getting the oppo. I'll try a friends DVD player tonight if I can.

The picture CAN look AMAZING in some scenes. Hope I can sort this out.

John

Mark-7...I went to 866 795 3383 and regular customer service came on and I said I needed to speak to a human being concerning a rebate that never showed.
I'm serious people wait 5 weeks but definitely then check status or you might end up in "wait" hell!!