Not much time for pictures lately. But I have been making some progress. I finally got all the maple purchased for the bar and just ordered the maple bar rail moldings from Rockler today. I should have the bar mostly done by this weekend. Then the only thing left will be the trim work and the bar counter top.

I will be ordering the refridgerator and the dishwasher for the bar on saturday. So those should arrive in about 7 to 10 days or so.

I also started to projects in the HT. I started to build the equipment shelf using the same rails that come from Middle Atlantic and I started to install the carpeting in the HT. I only got as far as putting in the tackless and some of the pad but hopefully can tackle it this week/weekend. I will post some pictures in a few days.

Oh yeah I just bought my new HT receiver from Crutchfield. The Onkyo TX-SR804:
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/products/2006/580/h580TXS804B-f.jpeg

So I should have that in a few days. Now if I could get my hands on the new PS3 but I am not going to pay the $2500 asking price some people are advertising on ebay....

Drew

Well the axiom speakers have been ordered and the receiver has been shipped! I also ordered cables from monoprice. I thought I would post some progress pictures of the bar and carpeting. I hope to get the bar done this weekend and get a good start on the carpeting in the HT. Although I will be taking a break on Sat to go see the Air Force/Notre Dame game :)

These pictures are of the bar corners. They where just built and sanded in this picture, waiting to be stained:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album7/Large/unstained_bar_corners.jpg

Here is the front of the bar that was unfinished, now stained:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album7/Large/Front_bar_frame.jpg

Here are two shots of the bar coming together:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album7/Large/Putting_bar_together.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album7/Large/Putting_bar_together2.jpg

This last shot is of the paneling that still needs to be cut and put into place:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album7/Large/Stained_plywood_for_bar.jpg

Drew

Here is the stage in the HT that has been stained:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album6/Large/stage_stained.jpg

Here is a shot of the carpet pad that I cut out and need to tack down. I hope to get the rest put in this weekend:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album6/Large/Starting_carpet_HT.jpg

I built this rack over the last few days and it seems like it will turn out nice but I have some more things to do with it before I will be happy:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album6/Large/equipment_rack.jpg

Drew

Glad you are making progress. That's hard to do during the fall. Between football and raking leaves, there usually isn't much time for hobby stuff.

Enjoy the AF/ND game. Depending on who you want to win, it may not be much of a game.

Drew,

Wow! Your bar is going to look great -- love the color and finish :)

I'm proud of you for working through the fall as well. I've kind of fallen off the bandwagon so to say. I even told a friend I was going to pull the projector down to get remotivated and I just couldn't do it :(

Mike

Hi Drew - your stage is almost exactly the same design as I have been planning for my theater. Do you mind me asking you what are your dimensions? In particular, the arc of the steps - what's the width and the bulge and the over all width/depth of the stage? I was going to search through Sandman's thread as he has a similar stage design, but just the thought of sifting that thread makes me tired !

Thanks again for the scan of the soffit design article that you sent to me.

Cheers,
Lewis

Hi Drew - your stage is almost exactly the same design as I have been planning for my theater. Do you mind me asking you what are your dimensions? In particular, the arc of the steps - what's the width and the bulge and the over all width/depth of the stage? I was going to search through Sandman's thread as he has a similar stage design, but just the thought of sifting that thread makes me tired !

Thanks again for the scan of the soffit design article that you sent to me.

Cheers,
Lewis


Lewis, check out my post here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7905459&&#post7905459) it has most of the dimensions you are asking about.

Drew

Lewis, check out my post here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7905459&&#post7905459) it has most of the dimensions you are asking about.

Drew

Can't belive I missed that one - thanks !

Drew - bar looking good. Not sure if you have already got / considering a bar top moulding but they sure st the look off right. If you can't find a local supply check Baird Bros (http://bairdbros.com/)

Cheers,
Mark

Drew - bar looking good. Not sure if you have already got / considering a bar top moulding but they sure st the look off right. If you can't find a local supply check Baird Bros (http://bairdbros.com/)

Cheers,
Mark


Hey Mark, thanks. I just received the bar moldings from Rockler. I am about to start making the bar top right now. I will take some pictures tonight. I graciously took your idea on the paneling!

Drew

Glad to be of assistance to someone :D

I stopped work on my bar while I get the acoustic panels completed. Hope to get back to the bar over the weekend. I need to find somewhere that I can get custom frosted glass, want to do something like this above the bar:

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/FrostedGlass.jpg

But maybe with 'Rose & Crown' or another popular British Pub name.

Cheers,
Mark

You might look into custom cut vinyl. You could either use a frosted vinyl or use a vinyl cutout as a mask for some glass etching solution that you can get at a craft store.

Just thought I'd throw those ideas out there, never done either one myself, but I know those are two ways people diy frosted glass.

Later,
Brian

You might look into custom cut vinyl. You could either use a frosted vinyl or use a vinyl cutout as a mask for some glass etching solution that you can get at a craft store.

Just thought I'd throw those ideas out there, never done either one myself, but I know those are two ways people diy frosted glass.

Later,
Brian

I have heard that the glass etching solutions are not really as effective as a true sand-blasting technique that has been traditionally used. You might want to check out the local stained glass shops - that's where you'll find plenty of info on glass etching etc.

Thanks Guys - But I don't want to hijack Drews thread. Any suggestions please use my thread (link below).

Cheers,
Mark

Ok I have been making progress!! My receiver arrived yesterday as did all my shelves and blank plates for the rack. My speakers arrive tomorrow!! I also got my cables from Monoprice today.

I have been working on a lot of stuff this last week. I am almost done with the bar. I finished the rack in the HT and I built some speaker stands.

Here are some shots of the bar:

This picture is of the new bar top but I still needed to but the molding trim on:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album7/Large/Bar-paneling-top.jpg

Here is a closeup of the bar top which still needs to be stained:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album7/Large/Bar-paneling-top2.jpg

Here is a shot of the bar with the moldings all done:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album7/Large/Bar-paneling-finished.jpg
The dust was from sanding the bar top in prep for stain.

http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album7/Large/bar-and-cabnets.jpg

Drew

I also finished the rack in the HT. I just took 1/2" MDF and framed out the rough opening that I had in the wall:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album6/Large/equipment_rack.jpg

I then painted it flat black. The rough opening was 22" wide by 48" tall. So I had to add some MDF to the sides to bring the final width down to 19 1/8" wide. I bought the Middle Atlantic rails 47U from Smarthome as well as the shelves and blank plates.

The shelves and blanks arrived today and so this is what I ended up with:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album6/Large/Equipment-rack-done.jpg

And here it is all loaded up:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album6/Large/equipment-rack-loaded.jpg

Of course I still need to add the HTPC, a HD Tivo, and a PS3 but those can wait!

On another note I will be cutting the carpet for the HT tomorrow and install it on Friday.

Drew

Drew, that looks sweet (the rack & the bartop). Your rack has inspired me to get back to work. I really do need to get finished before the end of the year gets here (it's sneaking up kind of fast...). We always have a big new years party and I need that room done so I can properly show it off :)

Keep up the good work -- oh, and don't hook stuff up until you're done or you'll just get sucked in to watching movies all the time like I did, worst "best" mistake I ever made ;)

Mike

Looks great Drew!

Drew - the bars coming along nicely. Looks similar bar top molding to mine.

You got a great Rack ( :D ) Gotta start mine soon, its going to be totally hidden so I'm probably going just use MDF painted black.

Cheers,
Mark

You guys are inspiring me to add a bar area and game room off my proposed space. Of course this will reduce my workshop area, don't like that. I think I better get my theater going first. Can you say "Phase II"? Good to be thinking about this before framing though.

Looks great Drew! Thanks for sharing
Chip

Drew,

Nice job on the bar and rack as well. When that bar is stained, it will look SWEET!

So.. are you planning like 10 coats of poly on top of the bar to be sure you NEVER get a "water" ring?? :rolleyes: I ask because I plan to have a bar table in my room as well and was thinking Granite or Quartz to avoid the issue all together.

You can get the stuff you pour on that's like what's used in restaurants and sports bars and what not. Thick and clear but rock hard and easily abused ;) This is a pretty common topic over on rec.woodworking. You could google the archives (http://groups.google.com/group/rec.woodworking?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8) -- the tough part is sorting out the "advice" from the advice :)

Mike

I'm doing multiple coats of acrylic and then one of these (http://www.thepubshoppe.com/barrunner.html)

Drew,

Its not a picture of a bar until there's a beer on it... :D Making good progress, always seems to take longer than you think, huh?

Bud

You can get the stuff you pour on that's like what's used in restaurants and sports bars and what not.

Mike

Without sorting through all of the stuff, do you know what it is specifically called? I made a table for my bathroom sink and wanted to protect it from the water so I bought professional wood floor polyurathane and applied 5 coats of the thick stuff. It turned out great. It's difficult to apply because it's so thick, but it smooths itself out over time and takes a week to cure. It is very tough stuff once it has hardened. I was thinking of using this for the bar top, but if there is better, I'd rather use that.

Here's a snippet I pulled from a quick search. If memory serves this is what most people recommend if you're going for the true bar top look (thick clear finish). Be sure and use a glossy version because with the number of layers that you'll need you'll just end up with a really cloudy look and you won't be too happy (I know, I've done it). If you really, really, need to have a satin finish (which if you're wiping the bartop frequently will buff out to glossy by itself anyway -- my kitchen table did that in just 3 months of wiping with a wet rag :) ), you can go glossy on all the sub layers and satin on the last. You'll get depth of wood with the previous layers and a nice satin finish look to it at the same time.

Behlen makes a product called Rock Hard Tabletop Varnish. It's a
high-solids varnish that you'll be able to rub out to a really nice look
(you could put oil on the wood prior to the varnish, which might enhance
the visual depth of the finish). You can put on several coats and let it
build, or fewer for a less plasticky finish. Good stuff.

I still think it's wise to peruse the archives a bit (do a search on "bar top finish" and you'll get plenty of threads to go through) so you have a bit more info before you make your decision. I say this because I've never done a bartop myself and we all know how that kind of advice can end up if you're not careful. I only brought up the possibility of it because I've seen it discussed and referenced as being successfully used many times over the years on the rec.

Mike

Thanks for looking up the info. I'm actually going to be using wood flooring for the bar top and was hoping to fill in some of grooves a little. This should work nicely.

Mmmm...careful you don't go too thick with the finish on the surface because that wood flooring will expand and contract quite a bit (if you have wood floor you'll know what I mean). That's not to say you couldn't use a flooring product and get the results you want (though not as thick as the bartop kind of stuff but certainly as effective). I think in the case of the bartops I believe they're using veneered plywood or particleboard which won't move like solid wood will.

Good luck,
Mike

Sorry, didn't mean to hijack the thread, but those are good points. I was going to heavily glue down each piece of the wood flooring to the 3/4" mdf and to each other. Will it still move? I've talked to a local pub who has the real wood flooring for their bar top and it has thick coating on it with no problems. Do you think they did something special? They didn't know how the flooring pieces were attached. I wasn't going to make mine that thick, just seal in the gaps between the wood pieces which still would probably be an issue if the wood expands or contracts. My only benefit is that it is in my basement and the temperature and humidity has remained relatively constant during the seasons.

Drew,

Nice job on the bar and rack as well. When that bar is stained, it will look SWEET!

So.. are you planning like 10 coats of poly on top of the bar to be sure you NEVER get a "water" ring?? :rolleyes: I ask because I plan to have a bar table in my room as well and was thinking Granite or Quartz to avoid the issue all together.


Thanks, yeah I am still deciding on that. Hence the unfinished top. I want to stain it this week and will probably go with many coats of something on top. BTW I ended up going with the axioms, price wise it was a cheaper by like $250 bucks. It was the thought of more time building stuff that made me decide against building my own.

Drew

You can get the stuff you pour on that's like what's used in restaurants and sports bars and what not. Thick and clear but rock hard and easily abused ;) This is a pretty common topic over on rec.woodworking. You could google the archives (http://groups.google.com/group/rec.woodworking?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8) -- the tough part is sorting out the "advice" from the advice :)

Mike


Mike, I was thinking about that stuff and will have to research it more. Thanks.

Drew

I'm doing multiple coats of acrylic and then one of these (http://www.thepubshoppe.com/barrunner.html)


Dude! that link rocks! I will be ordering one of the Guinness mats as well as one of the Air Force military signs.
http://www.thepubshoppe.com/Bar%20Runners/crownbar.jpg
http://www.thepubshoppe.com/Bar%20Runners/WSGuinnesssmall.jpg
http://www.thepubshoppe.com/Pub%20Signs/USAF-Pub-Sign-small.jpg

Many thanks..

Drew

Drew,

Its not a picture of a bar until there's a beer on it... :D Making good progress, always seems to take longer than you think, huh?

Bud


Bud, soon enough, soon enough. I agree 1000000% on taking longer than you think. I remember way back I said I would get it done in August, then I said by Thanksgiving. Now it may be 100% done by Xmas. Whats a fella got to do to finish this darn man hole project anyway.... ;)

Drew

Sorry, didn't mean to hijack the thread, but those are good points. I was going to heavily glue down each piece of the wood flooring to the 3/4" mdf and to each other. Will it still move? I've talked to a local pub who has the real wood flooring for their bar top and it has thick coating on it with no problems. Do you think they did something special? They didn't know how the flooring pieces were attached. I wasn't going to make mine that thick, just seal in the gaps between the wood pieces which still would probably be an issue if the wood expands or contracts. My only benefit is that it is in my basement and the temperature and humidity has remained relatively constant during the seasons.

No worries on the hijack, this is all really great info that I am currently researching. Thanks

Drew

Glad to have been of assistance - so far I've got some bar runners, beer coasters and glasses from them. I'm sure I'll be ordering much more.

Cheers,
Mark

I have been busy this week. I got the floor in the workout room finished:

http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album7/Large/Workout-room-floor.jpg

It turned out fairly nice. Although you can see dust on it all the time to it is a alot to keep clean. Oh well it was cheap. I think the entire 12x10 room cost me $130 to put in 1/2" thick foam workout mats.

Here are a few shots showing the cleaned up game room:

http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album7/Large/clean-game-room.jpg http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album7/Large/foosball.jpg

Drew

Remember I said I made my own speaker stands? Well here they are. I made them out of some scrap wood I had (1/2" MDF, 1x3" pine, and 3/4" particle board):

http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album6/Large/speaker-stands.jpg

You will also notice I have the carpet pad done in that last picture.

I needed the stands because I got my speakers !!! :D
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album6/Large/speakers.jpg

Here are the speakers in place behind the screen:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album6/Large/speakers-in-place.jpg

Oh yeah and I have almost finished the HT carpet:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album6/Large/HT-carpet.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album6/Large/HT-carpet2.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album6/Large/HT-carpet3.jpg

I will finish up the carpet on the stage tonight.

Drew

http://www.thepubshoppe.com/Bar%20Runners/crownbar.jpg

This picture gives me another idea. You could get a custom made glass top for your bar. Stain and finish it like you did the panels and simply put the glass on top of it. The glass stays put (they have little sticky things) and looks great, cleans up easy and the wood underneath will always look perfect. My neighbor did that for his office furniture and it was only a couple hundred bucks I think and it looks great.

As for gluing down the wood flooring I'd be nervous about the wood splitting. I agree in a basement that probably will stay fairly constant in temp/humidity you might not have a problem but man that would stink if you did. Couldn't you just lay the boards like they do with flooring and use the nail cleats? Tough call...

Mike

Glass is probably not a great idea for a bar top. Any spillage will creep under meaning you need to take off top (more chance to break).

I think a decent arcylic or varnish finish with 5-6 coats will be fine for a home bar top. Its not like its a public bar that gets loads of traffic.

Cheers,
Mark

That carpet looks familiar! Is it the same as SandmanX's carpet? Maybe you mentioned it already, and I missed or forgot it.

Glass is probably not a great idea for a bar top. Any spillage will creep under meaning you need to take off top (more chance to break).

Good call, hadn't thought of that!

Mike

That carpet looks familiar! Is it the same as SandmanX's carpet? Maybe you mentioned it already, and I missed or forgot it.


Yes it is.

Drew

Remember I said I made my own speaker stands? Well here they are. I made them out of some scrap wood I had (1/2" MDF, 1x3" pine, and 3/4" particle board):

http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album6/Large/speaker-stands.jpg
I built some very flimsy "make shift/scrap" speaker stands for my speakers as well out of MDF. I think your addition of pine will give them a bit more stability over my crappy ones.

It should be nice once you get the Axioms put into full-time duty on these babies.

My In-laws have arrived for thanksgiving and my father -in-law has been helping me set up the speakers. They sound GREAT so far. I have been trying to calibrate everything.

I finished the front wall and am almost done with the soffits. I will post some pictures of it all tomorrow. I also finished the carpet. The only problem I am having right now is I have a low hum coming from the axiom ep350 sub. I am assuming it is a ground loop problem, as it goes away when I disconnect the coax. I have tried a new patch cable and plugging it into different outlets but nothing helps. The only things I have not tried yet are a new coax cable from the sub to the onkyo, disconnecting the hdmi from the PJ, or a ground loop isolator. I am going to pick an isolator up in the morning to see if that helps first. Any other ideas.

Other than that we watched Cars on the big screen and it was amazing. I plan on finishing the screen border tomorrow and making a sliding rail for the panamorph lens.

Drew

Another thing you might want to try for your (potential) ground loop problem is using an extension cord to plug your sub into the same outlet and circuit as the rest of your equipment. Not a solution I realize, but another experiment.

Guy

I figured out the ground loop problem. It was the PJ being plugged into the isolated ground switch I installed. When I removed the Pj from the system the hum went away. So I installed an isolated ground adapter from Radio Shack and the hum went away. All is well.

On another note I just got my Lutron Grafik Eye 3106 today that I got on ebay. So I will be installing it tomorrow. My father-in-law and I also finished the screen tonight. We installed the black fidelio velvet border and it really looks good.

We all watched the first full length movie tonight and even though the room is not finished it rocked :D

Drew

Drew, could you, or someone else, explain "isolated ground" and "isolated ground switch" in a bit more detail. I'm not sure I understand what causes this, but would like to prevent it.

Of course, we'll all be expecting updated pictures with the screeen installed. ;-)

Thanks
Chip

Hey Chip,
Check out THIS THREAD (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=322698) for info about ground loops and such.

Drew,
Great theater.... I still can't wait to see the door painting.

Nelson

Hey Chip,
Check out THIS THREAD (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=322698) for info about ground loops and such.
Thanks Nelson, great information, now I understand.

Happy Thanksgiving to all! (In the U.S. at least)
Chip

Hope everyone had a great turkey day. I did. We enjoyed the football games on the big screen even the the Broncos lost :mad: . Oh well there is always next week.

Any way thought I would post some pictures of the progress that was made this week. The only thing left in the HT is to get the GOM up on the walls and get the cabinet built for the side wall. Then get the chairs. Then the HT will be complete!!

Here are some shots of finally completing the screen border with the fidelio velvet. Man that stuff is black. I would highly recommend it.
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/velvet-on-screen.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/vellvet-border.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/velvet-border2.jpg

And the finished screen:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/screen-border.jpg

Drew

I used the same method that Bud did to build the front wall frames for the black GOM. I only took a few shots of the progress though. So here are a few of one of the frames:

The raw GOM frame built and painted black:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/GOM-screen-frame.jpg


The same frame with the GOM stapled on. This is a rear view:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/Back-GOM-frame.jpg

The front view:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/GOM-on-frame.jpg

Here is a shot of the front screen wall that shows the speakers, a few of the panels and the finished carpet on the steps:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/GOM-panels.jpg

Here is the finished screen wall:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/screen-front.jpg

and another shot:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/Finished-screen-front.jpg

Drew

Here are two shots of the side wall and the new graphic eye I got on ebay for $390.00
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/graphik-eye2.jpg

This shot shows the finished soffit and the lights:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/graphik-eye.jpg

I got the GRX-3106 Lutron graphic Eye a few days ago after winning it on ebay. It was brand new. The only down side was it was white. But it has a tanslucent cover. I can always change the faceplate for around $80. A new 6 zone unit like this costs about $750 in retail stores so I feel I got a great deal.

Here is a shot of the movie cars playing with the lights dimmed and the stars on:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/cars2.jpg

and another shot:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/cars.jpg

Drew

Drew,

The screen and screen wall came out great. I assume you used SMX material? Even though it looks like I won't be putting center behind the screen I may still use SMX so screen is not so reflective.

We watched Cars too yesterday - great family movie and those colours really popped. Also watched the Da Vinci Code earlier in the week so HT is starting to get some real use. Still got quite a bit of work to do before I can say I'm complete....looks like you'll beat me to the finish.

Cheers,
Mark

Seems to be a theme... last Movie Nite at the Caesare House was Cars as well...

Drew,

Room looks great. I wanted to ask you about the velvet frame. Did you just nail the velvet frame to the actual screen frame? If you used brad nails -- did they show? How much "gap" did you need to leave in your miter cuts to allow for the thickness of the velvet. I still need to build mine and wanted a few tips :D

Drew,

Room looks great. I wanted to ask you about the velvet frame. Did you just nail the velvet frame to the actual screen frame? If you used brad nails -- did they show? How much "gap" did you need to leave in your miter cuts to allow for the thickness of the velvet. I still need to build mine and wanted a few tips :D


Steve,

I stapled the velvet (using a power shot stapler with 1/4" staples) to the screen first, along the edge of the screen. Then I placed the wood molding on top of the velvet and stapled the molding into the screen using 3/4" staples from my air stapler. I then stretched the velvet over the wood molding and stapled it the the back side of the screen from using the 1/4" power shot stapler.

As for the gap between the mitres I only used 1/16th". The gap does not have to be very big as the velvet compresses quite a bit. That fidelio is some slick stuff. Make all the difference in the world.

Drew

I used the same method that Bud did to build the front wall frames for the black GOM. I only took a few shots of the progress though. So here are a few of one of the frames:

The raw GOM frame built and painted black:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/GOM-screen-frame.jpg


The same frame with the GOM stapled on. This is a rear view:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/Back-GOM-frame.jpg

The front view:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/GOM-on-frame.jpg

Here is a shot of the front screen wall that shows the speakers, a few of the panels and the finished carpet on the steps:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/GOM-panels.jpg

Here is the finished screen wall:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/screen-front.jpg

and another shot:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/Finished-screen-front.jpg

Drew

Awesome job! Quick question though. I noticed that the speakers are behind the screen. What type of screen cloth is it? Oh, also, what are the dimensions of your room and your screen?

I can't wait to start mine most especially I got my new toys today (miter,table saw and nailer)! :D

Thanks!

Drew,

Thanks so much for the steps you followed to apply the screen frame. I'll probably do the same thing :D


http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/GOM-panels.jpg

On another note -- I really am impressed with the look of your stage. I especially like the stained wood along the bottom with the carpet on top. I showed the wife and she liked the look as well. I plan to use a technique like this for the rear platform riser. I do have a few questions .. if you don't mind:

1) I think you installed the carpet yourself -- right? If so, did you just wrap it around the lip and staple it from underneath?

2) How thick is your lip? 1.5"? Did you round it over or leave it square?

3) Did you put any rope lighting under there? If so, did you build a small inset to hide that as well?

Thanks!

Awesome job! Quick question though. I noticed that the speakers are behind the screen. What type of screen cloth is it? Oh, also, what are the dimensions of your room and your screen?

I can't wait to start mine most especially I got my new toys today (miter,table saw and nailer)! :D

Thanks!


The screen is SMX-720 from Sandman. It is a perforated screen. You can check out his thread or go to www.smxscreen.com and get more info on it. The room is 11'5" wide by 17'5" long and the screen is 102" wide by 47" high. The viewable dimensions are 95" wide by 40" high.

Drew

Drew,

Thanks so much for the steps you followed to apply the screen frame. I'll probably do the same thing :D


http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/GOM-panels.jpg

On another note -- I really am impressed with the look of your stage. I especially like the stained wood along the bottom with the carpet on top. I showed the wife and she liked the look as well. I plan to use a technique like this for the rear platform riser. I do have a few questions .. if you don't mind:

1) I think you installed the carpet yourself -- right? If so, did you just wrap it around the lip and staple it from underneath?

2) How thick is your lip? 1.5"? Did you round it over or leave it square?

3) Did you put any rope lighting under there? If so, did you build a small inset to hide that as well?

Thanks!

1) I did install the carpet myself. I wrapped the carpet around the edge of both the riser and the stage. I used a air stapler to staple the carpet from under the lip. Although I had some really tight spaces where the stapler would not fit so I had to use a right angle screw gun and some screws. A BIG PITA :(

2) The lip is 1.5" thick (two 3/4" pieces of plywood.) I rounded the plywood edge by using two 1/4" round moldings tacked into the edges.

3) No rope lighting under the stage or riser. I installed two step lights in the riser front instead of rope lighting. Had I used rope though I would have routed out an inset for it.


Drew

Going to order the final GOM fabric for the HT walls on Monday. I need 23 yards. I am also going to finally order the Berkline 088's. I have decided on this configuration:

http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/seats.jpg

I also took delivery of the new refrigerator and dishwasher for the bar yesterday and got those set up. Now the only thing left is to finish the base molding, get the hidden door started, build the alcove in the HT and put in the bar sink.

Does not seem like much but might take me till Jan-Feb to finish ;)

BTW does anyone in the front range area need 50-60 feet of Linacoustic? If so PM me.

Drew

Coming together nicely Drew. You'll like that configuration, you'll be able to walk around either side of the front row which is nice.

Bud

Going to order the final GOM fabric for the HT walls on Monday. I need 23 yards. I am also going to finally order the Berkline 088's. I have decided on this configuration:
Drew

quick question folks. What does a GOM fabric have that other fabric such as the ones we buy at Joanne's fabric does not have? Are they expensive too?

quick question folks. What does a GOM fabric have that other fabric such as the ones we buy at Joanne's fabric does not have? Are they expensive too?
It's acoustically transparent. Basically, very nice looking speaker grille fabric. It's used to either place in front of speakers to hide them, or in front of sound treatments like linacoustic, insulation, bass traps, etc.

I'd wager to guess you wouldn't consider putting your average fabric from Joann's in front of your speaker... :)

quick question folks. What does a GOM fabric have that other fabric such as the ones we buy at Joanne's fabric does not have? Are they expensive too?

From what I remember it also meets a standard for fire resistance that you won't get in anything from Joanne's. Heck, the stuff that GOM makes is used in many commercial cubicals that you will see.

Scott, is correct. Basically GOM is a 100% recycled polyester product that meets the ASTM E-84 Class 1 or A flammability code. Plus it is much cheaper than Joannes fabric and using a fire retardant spray.

I just ordered 23 yards of the wall material from fabricmate.com so will be able to finish the theater walls this weekend :D

Drew

Drew,

Question on your star ceiling.

How did you decide how many fibers to use for the stars. Small ones are easy requiring 1 fiber but how many did you use for larger stars? Was it consistent for all larger stars or did you try to figure out different number of fibers for each star?

Also did you end up adding any random stars to use up excess fiber?

Cheers,
Mark

Drew,

Question on your star ceiling.

How did you decide how many fibers to use for the stars. Small ones are easy requiring 1 fiber but how many did you use for larger stars? Was it consistent for all larger stars or did you try to figure out different number of fibers for each star?

Also did you end up adding any random stars to use up excess fiber?

Cheers,
Mark

Mark, many good questions. To start, I used the 48 strand fiber which had different sizes of fiber. So the larger ones did not require the use of multiple strands. I ended up having some excess fiber in the strand that I did not use on some panels. On those I just coiled up the excess and taped them up on top of the panel.

On some panels I went ahead and use some of the extra fiber to fill in some large areas that had nothing. Some of my stars had multiple strands in each hole. It was very random on which ones I did that with though.

Hope that helps.

Drew

Thanks - my kit can with a bundle of about 200 strands of same fibre size so I'll need to use multiple strand to get larger stars.

cheers,
Mark

I received all the rest of my GOM from fabricmate yesterday. So today I started to finish the walls in the HT. I got one wall finished today and will try to get another finished tomorrow. The GOM on the walls is a reddish color called Henna, the style is Anchorage and man does it look nice. I will snap some pictures in the morning.

On another note I order the chairs but did not go with Berkline. My wife and I decided that since I was over budget :eek: that we should go with the coasters. So I ordered 5 of the Studio line and they will be here next week. I know they are not as nice as the Berks but the cost savings will allow me to completely finish the basement, which is what I would rather do right now.

Besides when I sell my house I can sell them with it and buy Berks later for the next theater ;)

I also tried running the Hot-Link pro IR system with no luck. Nothing I did could get that darn thing working. So my Irish temper took over and now it is in several pieces. I order a much better unit set up and everything works like a champ now. I am now using this for my IR distribution:
http://www.partsexpress.com/images/182-315m.jpg

This is used for IR repeating:
http://www.partsexpress.com/images/182-314m.jpg

and these for the emitters:
http://www.partsexpress.com/images/180-825m.jpg

I must say I should have gone this route before as it is much more versatile than the Hot-Link pro.

Drew

Oh yeah I ordered the chairs from Home Theater Authority. Serge is the man to talk to. He is very helpful and his prices are very very good. His web site is: http://www.htauthority.com/index.htm

Here is a picture of the chairs I ordered:
http://www.htauthority.com/index_files/image9751.jpg

Drew

BTW, I sold the Linacoustic today.

Drew

I did not get as much done this weekend as I wanted to but I did get a lot of the HT walls done. So here are a few shots of the Anchorage Henna GOM on the walls:

Here is the first panel:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/First-wall-panel.jpg

Here are the linacoustic strips on the back wall:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/linacoustic-strips.jpg

Here are the rear panels:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/second-third-wall-panel.jpg

And the completed wall:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/completed-first-wall.jpg

Drew

Looking real good Drew.

http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/completed-first-wall.jpg

I love the color scheme, ideal for performance, yet easy on the eye. Got a few questions, though. :D

Were you still able to fit a 4-row and 2-row with the Coaster Showtimes (I think thats what you said you were getting)? What did you do for ceiling first reflections, since you opted for a star ceiling? What is that large cutout for? A giant bass trap? The last picture I saw of your soffits had white PVC pipes sticking down from your soffits, and now they're covered with GOM. How did you handle the seams (the hard part)? How did the light trays connect? Did you treat the underside of the soffits with more bass trapping - looks like 4" deep, looking at the PVC pipes from previous posts? Also, what's the size of your main can lights? Maybe I missed these posts, though.

I love the color scheme, ideal for performance, yet easy on the eye. Got a few questions, though. :D

Were you still able to fit a 4-row and 2-row with the Coaster Showtimes (I think thats what you said you were getting)? What did you do for ceiling first reflections, since you opted for a star ceiling? What is that large cutout for? A giant bass trap? The last picture I saw of your soffits had white PVC pipes sticking down from your soffits, and now they're covered with GOM. How did you handle the seams (the hard part)? How did the light trays connect? Did you treat the underside of the soffits with more bass trapping - looks like 4" deep, looking at the PVC pipes from previous posts? Also, what's the size of your main can lights? Maybe I missed these posts, though.


Unfortunately the coasters are a bit bigger than the Berkline 88's so I can only do a 2/3 configuration in my room. The coaster have a slight curve to them making them just a bit to large. I could do a 2/4 but there would be only 1 inch of clearance on each side of the back row (wall to wall) so I thought that would be too crammed.

The hole you see in the picture will very soon be a custom built in cabinet for DVD storage, etc. It will be made out of Birch and will have 3 glass shelves a counter and two doors.

I wish I had bit the bullet and ordered the fabricmate track for the seems in the soffits. I had 4 seems and made do by using drywall shims to make nice even/tight seems. You can see them with the lights on if you look hard but other than that they blend in very well.

As for the light trays I just nailed MDF up on the soffit edges all the way around. The soffits had no other bass trappings at all. They were just filled with normal insulation. The main can lights are 6" IC cans.

Drew

I finished all the walls :D :D And I took delivery of the studio's on friday. So everything in the HT is done with the exception of the shelves which I started working on today. I am finishing the pool table set up right now. After that I will take some pictures to share!

Drew

A few days late...but here is a shot of the new chairs:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/new-chairs.jpg

Here is a shot of the wall and entrance covered in Anchorage GOM. Can you see the door?:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/HT-door.jpg

I started building the shelves in the HT room for DVD storage. I just need to find a place that sells glass shelves.
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album8/Large/HT-shelving1.jpg

Drew

I finally got around to cleaning up and leveling the foosball table:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album7/Large/leveled-foosball.jpg

I also finished putting the pool table together. Damn that slate is heavy. And stretching the felt is not really fun. But it is DONE!
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album7/Large/finished-pool-table.jpg

Drew

I started building the shelves in the HT room for DVD storage. I just need to find a place that sells glass shelves.

Drew

Drew,

Michael's in Parker will cut glass to size for you, I just don't know how thick it is or if you can get the edges smooth. (maybe your own torch to melt the edges?)

I have gotten glass for picture frames there, I just don't know if that will work for shelves though.

Drew - I'm well jealous of that pool table. I got to wait for the kids to get older and I can claim more of the basement :D

Looking good.......does not look like you have too much left (other than plan your upgrades :D )

Cheers,
Mark

Drew, as Michael mentioned, glass shops can custom cut (or break) glass for you, just make sure they can smooth the edges for you and make sure it is tempered glass. You may want to tell them what will be going on it so they can suggest a thickness for you as well.

I had glass cut for me for my film reel tables as well as my candy rack:
http://www.vonhofs.com/theater/sm_10-10-02_reel_tables_1.jpg
http://www.vonhofs.com/theater/candy-rack-11-sm.jpg

I finally got around to cleaning up and leveling the foosball table:
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album7/Large/leveled-foosball.jpg

I also finished putting the pool table together. Damn that slate is heavy. And stretching the felt is not really fun. But it is DONE!
http://home.comcast.net/~d.fahey/Albums/Album7/Large/finished-pool-table.jpg

Drew


Is that an Olhausen pool table? That slate is heavy, but you know, it wil last a loooong time! Looks like the one in my basement. Nice!

BobK

Is that an Olhausen pool table? That slate is heavy, but you know, it wil last a loooong time! Looks like the one in my basement. Nice!

BobK

BobK, yes it is an Olhausen pool table. I got it free from my wife's parents. The only requirement was I had to drive to Texas, rent a trailer and bring it back to Colorado. What a pain but hey it did not cost be $5k so I can't complain to much ;) And yes that slate is very heavy.

Drew

I won a Directv HD10-250 Tivo from ebay and I just received it yesterday. So I am in the process of changing it to add networking capability and the Home Media Option so I can pass shows between my other two Tivos and my computer. I must say the High Def 10-250 IMO even though it is older than the new generation is much better than DirecTV's new models. I wish they would just go back to Tivo instead of using their own DVR's.

Drew

I must say the High Def 10-250 IMO even though it is older than the new generation is much better than DirecTV's new models. I wish they would just go back to Tivo instead of using their own DVR's.

You're not kidding! I've had Tivo for about 4 years now and absolutely love it. I was going to sign up with DirecTV (I have cableone right now) and had the Tivo HD in my basket and decided to think about it over the weekend. I was going to pull the trigger the following Monday morning only to find that they switched from Tivo to their HD unit. AGH!!! Oh well. I think I'll just wait for the new Series 3 unit to come down in price and I'll switch to that instead.

Congrats on the HD Tivo! Enjoy, enjoy!!

Mike

I won a Directv HD10-250 Tivo from ebay and I just received it yesterday. So I am in the process of changing it to add networking capability and the Home Media Option so I can pass shows between my other two Tivos and my computer. I must say the High Def 10-250 IMO even though it is older than the new generation is much better than DirecTV's new models. I wish they would just go back to Tivo instead of using their own DVR's.

Drew
Drew,

Are you having to "hack" the 250 to get the file-sharing (Home Media Option) capability? If memory serves me right you do. Did you get the info you needed from AVS's sister forum (http://www.tivocommunity.com/) or the other one (d*e*a*l*database.com)?

And I love mine. I have (2) of the old "hacked" SA Sony SRV-2000 units. They work great! In my HT room (since I do not have Satellite -- I'm waiting for FIOS), I'm using a HTPC to act as my Tivo. I do prefer my Tivo interface more, though. My favorite "Tivo" thing is the way Tivo FFs content -- more VCR like so you can see almost every frame as your move forward vs. showing every X frame). My HTPC software does not quite do that (www.sage.tv).

Drew,

Are you having to "hack" the 250 to get the file-sharing (Home Media Option) capability? If memory serves me right you do. Did you get the info you needed from AVS's sister forum (http://www.tivocommunity.com/) or the other one (d*e*a*l*database.com)?

And I love mine. I have (2) of the old "hacked" SA Sony SRV-2000 units. They work great! In my HT room (since I do not have Satellite -- I'm waiting for FIOS), I'm using a HTPC to act as my Tivo. I do prefer my Tivo interface more, though. My favorite "Tivo" thing is the way Tivo FFs content -- more VCR like so you can see almost every frame as your move forward vs. showing every X frame). My HTPC software does not quite do that (www.sage.tv).


Yeah. I hacked my other two tivos and am going to hack the hd tivo tonight. I love the fact that I can upload/download shows throughout my home network. DirecTV was really stupid for going away from Tivo. I have heard a rumor that they may go back though..

Drew

DirecTV was really stupid for going away from Tivo. I have heard a rumor that they may go back though..

Drew

Wasn't there some lawsuit about this? I can't remember what it was about though.

Wasn't there some lawsuit about this? I can't remember what it was about though.
I think DTV found out they might be able to make more money if they made their own. Unfortunately, a majority of Tivo owners that switched to "other" PVRs tend to prefer the features and functionality of an authentic Tivo to their new device. I've held back on my upgrade for that very reason.

Drew -- I hope you are right about Tivo getting back into the satellite PVR business. That would be great!

Drew -

I've been reading your thread and have gotten quite a few good ideas from what you have done. Thanks!! My theater is going to be almost the same size as what you have, so it's been great to see what can be accomplished in that space.

Quick question - I was reading about the screen that you constructed. I'm looking at ordering material from Sandman and building one myself (2.35:1 - 8ft width). When you built your screen, I noticed that you didn't put any blackout cloth, or other material, behind the SMX. Have you had any issues with seeing your support struts through the screen? Any tips that you could pass along on what NOT to do when building the screen? Any advice would be MOST appreciated!

Awesome work - your theater looks great!

Quick question - I was reading about the screen that you constructed. I'm looking at ordering material from Sandman and building one myself (2.35:1 - 8ft width). When you built your screen, I noticed that you didn't put any blackout cloth, or other material, behind the SMX. Have you had any issues with seeing your support struts through the screen? Any tips that you could pass along on what NOT to do when building the screen? Any advice would be MOST appreciated!
daimion,

I have a 9.5' wide SMX 2.25:1 screen in my theater. It is positioned in a false wall about 20" in front of the real front wall (which is generic white drywall). I CAN see a reflection of the screen image on the front wall when looking at images with a majority of black around them (like the THX intro screen). The simple solution was to hang some black speaker cloth from Joanns on the "real" front wall. Problem solved.

I used speaker cloth because I put some 2" yellow insulation back there to absorb sound and I wanted to be sure the mid/highs could pass through it and get absorbed.

daimion,

I have a 9.5' wide SMX 2.25:1 screen in my theater. It is positioned in a false wall about 20" in front of the real front wall (which is generic white drywall). I CAN see a reflection of the screen image on the front wall when looking at images with a majority of black around them (like the THX intro screen). The simple solution was to hang some black speaker cloth from Joanns on the "real" front wall. Problem solved.

I used speaker cloth because I put some 2" yellow insulation back there to absorb sound and I wanted to be sure the mid/highs could pass through it and get absorbed.

I'll definitely keep the black speaker cloth in mind for the front wall. Glad to hear that the SMX is working well. I'm going to order my fabric tonight. Thank you very much for the feedback and advice.

Drew -

I've been reading your thread and have gotten quite a few good ideas from what you have done. Thanks!! My theater is going to be almost the same size as what you have, so it's been great to see what can be accomplished in that space.

Quick question - I was reading about the screen that you constructed. I'm looking at ordering material from Sandman and building one myself (2.35:1 - 8ft width). When you built your screen, I noticed that you didn't put any blackout cloth, or other material, behind the SMX. Have you had any issues with seeing your support struts through the screen? Any tips that you could pass along on what NOT to do when building the screen? Any advice would be MOST appreciated!

Awesome work - your theater looks great!

Daimion, I did not need to use any blackout cloth. I cannot see anything behind the screen. The only tip I would recommend is to purchase the screen frame Ruben suggests so that you can tight the screen from time to time. Vlecro is also a good idea. Oh yeah and don't have the screen in your room when you are doing ANY construction/painting, etc.

Good Luck.

Drew

BTW, I am back from my two week vacation stint. I am done driving around the country and am now ready or rather wanting to get back to work to really finish this project. Unfortunately I will be traveling a lot for work for the next few months - oregon, Las Vegas, England, New York - All in the next two months. Not good for the basement.

Oh well I am just glad to be back for now. Hope everyone had a good holiday season.

Drew

Drew-

Your theater is looking awesome! I have been out of commission for a couple months while we moved and had a baby but now I'm getting back into planning mode. I also have some friends in Highlands Ranch who are planning their own theater and I've steered them to your thread. Thanks again for documenting the build!

Your project is looking great. I wish I had a basement to do a project like this in.

If you are still looking for glass shelves, call Mile High Glass. They can make anything you need.

Drew-

Your theater is looking awesome! I have been out of commission for a couple months while we moved and had a baby but now I'm getting back into planning mode. I also have some friends in Highlands Ranch who are planning their own theater and I've steered them to your thread. Thanks again for documenting the build!


Justin, Congrats on the move the the baby! Good luck with your build. If you need anything just let me know.

Drew

Your project is looking great. I wish I had a basement to do a project like this in.

If you are still looking for glass shelves, call Mile High Glass. They can make anything you need.


Thanks I will look into them.

Drew

I have taken some time off of the basement to help my neighbor wire his father-in-laws new house (the one that helped me with my drywall.) He is building his own custom house and I am doing all of the structured wiring and the theater - assuming there is money left over after the home is finished.

I just ran 1000' of structured cable (2 coax, 2 cat5e, 2 fiber) into every room of the house and am now finishing up wiring the in wall speakers. I am wiring a 5.1 system into the living room with speakers in the kitchen, garage, and deck. The house is a good size - 2500 sqft on the main floor and 2500 sqft in the basement. The theater rough dimensions are 18 feet wide by 30 feet long so it is much bigger than mine. I will start a new thread when we start it.

While I am in the midst of wiring does anyone have any ideas to through out before the wiring is complete and we begin to drywall? For example we are wiring for a tv in the bathroom above the tub. If you could build your own house and wire for anything what would it be?

Drew

If you could build your own house and wire for anything what would it be?

Drew
One thing my wife has asked for is an intercom in the Media room. She hates to yell upstairs to tell me something. I would assume you would want to put one in the kitchen and MBR as well -- but if you are pulling wire, put them everywhere :D And -- don't forget one at the front door.

Also, camera wiring (1 RG6 coax for video, 1 CAT5 for power and audio) at the front door, in the backyard (to watch the kids/grandkids) and possibly over the driveway.

An intercom is an awesome idea I had not thought of - In a soundproofish room, an intercom almost seems like a no-brainer!

An intercom is an awesome idea I had not thought of - In a soundproofish room, an intercom almost seems like a no-brainer!

I agree. Wonder if you could then also tie-in the door bell, fire alarm, etc. with this also?

I always bring my cell phone into the theater room. That way she just gives me a call. I know. Lazy. Cell to cell for my plan is free though..

Hummm lets see... you're watching the D-day landing in Saving Private Ryan at reference level. And your wife calls you on the intercom. That's going to be one heck of an intercom system... say 120 watts minimum. :eek:

Hummm lets see... you're watching the D-day landing in Saving Private Ryan at reference level. And your wife calls you on the intercom. That's going to be one heck of an intercom system... say 120 watts minimum. :eek:

I wouldn't imagine recognizing a familiar voice by intercom would be terribly difficult at anything but unreasonably loud volumes. Failing that however, how about a simple red "nag light" that turns on by a "nag switch/button" upstairs?

LOL! Isn't that the point of building the room in the first place -- to get away from the nagging??

Mike

One thing my wife has asked for is an intercom in the Media room. She hates to yell upstairs to tell me something. I would assume you would want to put one in the kitchen and MBR as well -- but if you are pulling wire, put them everywhere :D And -- don't forget one at the front door.

Also, camera wiring (1 RG6 coax for video, 1 CAT5 for power and audio) at the front door, in the backyard (to watch the kids/grandkids) and possibly over the driveway.


Steve, great idea. I will definitely run wire for that. Thanks!!!

Drew

Hummm lets see... you're watching the D-day landing in Saving Private Ryan at reference level. And your wife calls you on the intercom. That's going to be one heck of an intercom system... say 120 watts minimum. :eek:


Funny, that is one of the movies I always use as a demo for first timers.

Drew

One thing my wife has asked for is an intercom in the Media room. She hates to yell upstairs to tell me something. I would assume you would want to put one in the kitchen and MBR as well -- but if you are pulling wire, put them everywhere :D And -- don't forget one at the front door.

Also, camera wiring (1 RG6 coax for video, 1 CAT5 for power and audio) at the front door, in the backyard (to watch the kids/grandkids) and possibly over the driveway.

Here's what we did to solve the intercom problem. We just bought a set of these 5.8GHz phones where only the base phone plugs into the phone line. All the handsets (up to 10) just talk wirelessly to the base, and share the same phone line. The advantage of these kind of phones is that they can be used as an intercom. Any handset can call any other handset. We bought the package at Sams, but they sell them everywhere. So when I'm down working on the theater, my wife just calls me from upstairs. Works great. Still not a bad idea to pre-wire for an intercom, but for those of us that didn't they phones work great.

Guy

I agree. Wonder if you could then also tie-in the door bell, fire alarm, etc. with this also?

Or, you could try something like this:

http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/mboard/rc-custom/thread.cgi?10885

Hey Drew,

You done with the neighbors house yet? wondering if anything else has been done to the basement, or if you are done? Is anyone really ever done?

What happened to the Fly-In? Curious minds want to know.

Bud

What happened to the Fly-In? Curious minds want to know.

Bud
I don't think he's thawed out yet :D

Chip

I don't think he's thawed out yet :D

Chip

They got about a foot of snow in south Denver yesterday... I'm 30 miles north and we got some flakes but no accumulation. It was some interesting weather yesterday...

-Ryan

Man oh man, so glad I live in the South!

Bud

They got about a foot of snow in south Denver yesterday... I'm 30 miles north and we got some flakes but no accumulation. It was some interesting weather yesterday...

-Ryan

Well, I'm in the same town as Rooster, and we had more than a foot. And it was reall heavy stuff too.infact, just a little south east of him the schools are still closed due to too much mud after all that wet snow.

Well, I'm in the same town as Rooster, and we had more than a foot. And it was reall heavy stuff too.infact, just a little south east of him the schools are still closed due to too much mud after all that wet snow.

Yeah...I live north of Colo Springs (Just north of Falcon, if you are familiar) and I just dug out today. Got a 6 foot drift in front of the garage and the county had to bring out the heavy machinery to dig out the roads.

But hey, on Sunday I'll be out in shorts, drinking a beer and BBQ'ing. Love this climate!

What ever happened to this guy?

bump

Bummer

This is a hold-up! Everybody get down & put your hands where I can see them!


I'm no superman.

Things are looking awsome... keep up the good work.. coming along very nicely

Are we actually disrespecting someones build thread who died?

Are we actually disrespecting someones build thread who died?

I don't think he actually died (I hope not!)

I think mtn-bike dude is just being an idiot.

Can anyone confirm/deny? Seriously.

No, I have no idea what happened to this guy. But this thread was fantastic. Seems strange that it would suddenly stop. Of course I hope he is ok, but the post got some attention. Thanks for following up.

I checked out his website and no updates there either - I'm hoping that he has been busy with work or other projects rather than any serious alment or injury. I sent him an email to see if all OK.

Cheers,
Mark

So here is the deal. I hate seeing crap posted like that above about what happened to someone, even if jokingly. You never know what goes on with people, bad things happen to people everyday. I went ahead and contacted Drew and he said he's been extremely busy with work and at some point not in the too distant future he'll be back.

Just wanted to let everyone know.

Bud

Thanks for the update Bud. I was a little worried, as I only live a few miles away, but I have no idea where exactly he is or how to contact him, so my wheels were spinning.

It's good to hear an update, and I definately look forward to having him back in the community soon.

Thank GOD I'll never be that busy where work would take a priority over life.

Sure would like to see some updates as I was once following closely to this one. I sure hope everybody is happy and healthy.
His website is no longer up.