I have the Sharp 10 XR and will be getting the HD72. The Sahrp has very little video noise. As i said, I've read the HD72 is really prone to video noise. Is this the case for people who own one? The video nosie issue would be a deal breaker for me. (I'll use it for TWC HD and my HD DVD player)


The HD72 is a great projector and throws a stunning picture when fed a high quality HDTV or well mastered DVD signal. However, when fed anything less than a perfect signal it faithfully reproduces the video noise and any other artifacts that that signal has. And it does this using the same high contrast and high resolution that makes its HDTV picture so good. So if your projector use is primarily HDTV, you will not have any issues with video noise. But if you are like me, who uses his projector for about 10% DVD, 30% HDTV and about 60% SDTV, then video noise is an issue on the HD72.

I bought an HD72 last month in hopes of replacing my one year old NEC HT1100. I really liked the higher contrast, more saturated colors, better resolution and higher brightness of the HD72. In all of these areas it exceeds my HT1100. But the video noise on the HD72 when viewing SDTV was unacceptable to me. My HT1100 is significantly better in this regard. So I have my HD72 (with extra lamp) for sale right now on videogon and I plan to keep my HT1100 for another year.

As a side note to people who are buying their first projector. While I am complaining about the performance of the HD72 compared to my HT1100, please note there is no perfect projector out there. All projectors have some issues that will bother some people. If the HD72 is your first projector I guaranty that you will be absolutely blown away by its performance and stunning picture quality. It is only after having a projector for several years and having other models to compare side by side that you start to become critical of the various ways that one projector outperforms another.

But for those of you upgrading, take note of all of the aspects of your current projector before jumping to next greatest thing. Because you may have to give up something you like to get better performance in some other area.


Tom

It's very true the HT1000 is the best for SDTV especially if you use the noise feature, picture goes on the soft side but pictures are very smooth. The NEC's best point was it's clean picture quality. I have both but you can't beat high res for anything HDTV. With the HD72 make sure you tune down the brightness and contrast & sharpness, specially for Standard TV signals.

It's very true the HT1000 is the best for SDTV especially if you use the noise feature, picture goes on the soft side but pictures are very smooth. The NEC's best point was it's clean picture quality. I have both but you can't beat high res for anything HDTV. With the HD72 make sure you tune down the brightness and contrast & sharpness, specially for Standard TV signals.


Yes it is too bad that Optoma did not include some kind of noise reduction circuitry in the HD72. In 10 years or so, when all the world is HD it won't matter, but today when 90% of all TV signals are sent in SDTV it would be a very useful feature.

How much would you recommend turing down the contrast and brightness from the Avia optomized settings for SDTV?

And by "turning down brightness" do you mean to the point of loss of shadow detail?

Tom

Brightness at the absolute low where the dithering stops, you eyeball the mirror activity nose up to the screen. :) With Avia you use the all black moving bars pattern an you can barely faintly minutely see the left moving bar. :) I prefer the test pattern where you eliminate the left moving bar like the Accupel has or the El Cheapo Sound and Vision Home Thearter Tune Up DVD.

Contrast can add grain or noise, Guy Kuo once told me shoot for the lighter moving bar to look half the brightness of the left moving bar. That should tame it some.

But for those of you upgrading, take note of all of the aspects of your current projector before jumping to next greatest thing. Because you may have to give up something you like to get better performance in some other area.




wise words Tom.

I just saw the 7100 tonight, and it looked excellant with an HD feed, but standard res broadcast looked only adequete at best. Still it's flat out amazing what you can get for the money these days. 5 years ago I left a local dealers almost in tears 'cause I had just seen my first DLP front projector- a Runco for $17000. I was sad and so disappointed that I would never have the kind of income anytime soon that would justify an extravegant purchase like that. Just a week or two earlier I had bought a rptv for $3K.

btw- I've got an HT1000 that I;m looking to upgrade this year too. I've got a Benq 8720 on order, but after seeing the Optoma tonight, I getting serious second thoughts.

Is there a tweak thread for the HD72? I thought i read a post referring to it.

If not what are people using for gamma, brilliant color, AI etc.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=643075

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=643075

Thanks, Tom. Your posts have been invaluable. Okay, so is there any way to reduce video noise besides bringing down, brightness, contrast and sharpness. I like this PJ a lot, but it's not as smooth a picture as my Sharp 10 XR, I attribute this to some background video noise, even on bright scenes. Is there an inexpensive DNS system that will leave my inputs and HCDP intact? Or some internal way of decreasing noise.

Also, Guitarman, why do you turn off the AI funtion? I thought it was used dynamically to enhance darker scenes on the fly.

Because I could detect the brightness changes. Someone asked for a good DVD player with noise reduction. The Panny S97 has a NR feature which could smooth things closer to a HT1000.

Also try testing the brilliant color feature you may like less for lower whites, more film like. Another thing turn of the Vivid choice also. There's allot of room to make for smoother images. You'll lose contrast and brightness though.

I need a ceiling mount.... I keep seeing people say they use this one or that, but I need the model number as well, Please

8 foot high ceiling, I want to mount it as close as possible

Thanks

I have the Tosh HD DVD player. So I am looking for an outboard noise reduction unit. Is there such an animal without me having to spend a fortune on some high end scaler with a noise reduction feature?

Chief Universal mount, great piece you can keep it around for any future projectors.

I have the Tosh HD DVD player. So I am looking for an outboard noise reduction unit. Is there such an animal without me having to spend a fortune on some high end scaler with a noise reduction feature?

I was wondering the same thing earlier today when I viewed an HD-DVD on the Toshiba and was THOROUGHLY unimpressed. Very noisy background, lots of aliasing, pixilation and spots all over the place. YUK! The best noise reduction I could recommend for it is to unplug it.

I need a ceiling mount.... I keep seeing people say they use this one or that, but I need the model number as well, Please

8 foot high ceiling, I want to mount it as close as possible

Thanks

DIY!

Tom, I must say you do know your stuff. Last night I spent several hours trying to smooth out the video noise on the HD72. I found that the Brilliant Color was a major contributor to noise emphasis and needed to be set to zero. I also found that the TrueVivid adjustment needed to be set to zero. I lowered the contrast and brightness and low and behold, the video noise was much more in control.

But then I turned on my HT1100 for comparison and found that the HT1100 was displaying a picture with far better contrast and similar brightness. Just the things that I originally liked better about the HD72. So I realized nothing is free in life. If you want higher resolution brighter colors, and higher contrast, with it, you get more noise. If you reduce these attributes you can get less noise, but at the expense of that bright, snappy picture quality.

So I resigned myself that the HD72 needs to have 2 different setups one for lower quality NTSC signals and one for higher quality HDTV signals. Unfortunately the HD72 does not recognize the different sources and automatically load the proper settings for each signal type like the HT1100 does. Also the HD72 must be manually changed from 4X3 to 16X9 when changing type of source and the Ht1100 recognizes this automatically as well.

So the HT1100 remains my best choice for all of the SDTV that I watch. But the HD72 remains the clear champion for high quality HD sources. So i will keep the HT1100 and sell the HD72.


Tom

Because I could detect the brightness changes. Someone asked for a good DVD player with noise reduction. The Panny S97 has a NR feature which could smooth things closer to a HT1000.

Also try testing the brilliant color feature you may like less for lower whites, more film like. Another thing turn of the Vivid choice also. There's allot of room to make for smoother images. You'll lose contrast and brightness though.

I was wondering the same thing earlier today when I viewed an HD-DVD on the Toshiba and was THOROUGHLY unimpressed. Very noisy background, lots of aliasing, pixilation and spots all over the place. YUK! The best noise reduction I could recommend for it is to unplug it.

This has me a bit scared. I have the same HD-DVD player and I am looking at the HD72 as a replacement for my AE900U but from what you say I am having second thoughts. Was it really that bad? My AE900U looks pretty good compared to what you are saying about the HD72 so maybe I should stick with that... hmmm.

I was wondering the same thing earlier today when I viewed an HD-DVD on the Toshiba and was THOROUGHLY unimpressed. Very noisy background, lots of aliasing, pixilation and spots all over the place. YUK! The best noise reduction I could recommend for it is to unplug it.

Was the Toshiba HD-DVD player set to output 720p? It is known this player has problems with this resolution and should always be set to 1080i regardless of projector resolution.

Chief Universal mount, great piece you can keep it around for any future projectors.

Thanks a ton, Is this the correct model? RPA-U Universal

- Scott

I was wondering the same thing earlier today when I viewed an HD-DVD on the Toshiba and was THOROUGHLY unimpressed. Very noisy background, lots of aliasing, pixilation and spots all over the place. YUK! The best noise reduction I could recommend for it is to unplug it.

Which Title did you watch? I looked at Swordfish and MDB. While MDB had some noise, it was great to have use of all the color controls over HDMI. With my old Sharp (less noisy) I didn't have any control over sauration, hue and color space over DVI. I'll watch Aeon Flux tonight, which I just got from Nerflix and report back.

And of course, I'm sure you had it at 1080i. The HD72 would be great for the Tosh HD-DVD if I could just tweak out a bit of noise. I know Robert from Value Electronics ( a great guy, BTW) has the HD72 and Tosh running in his showroom as a demo to show off the Tosh HD DVD capabilities, so it can't be that noisy in his setup.

This has me a bit scared. I have the same HD-DVD player and I am looking at the HD72 as a replacement for my AE900U but from what you say I am having second thoughts. Was it really that bad? My AE900U looks pretty good compared to what you are saying about the HD72 so maybe I should stick with that... hmmm.

See my post above this one. Even with the additional background noise, HD DVD looks amazing (of course). If you blast it with lots of BC, vivid, etc, of course you are going to get unnatural effects. I saw no aliasing and I'm not sure what 'spots' the poster was referring to.

What is the manufacture date (or serial #) that, once and for all, solved the notorious reset issue with this PJ?

I have the Toshiba along with the hd72. The picture is perfect. If your seeing noise it is from the hd transfer. Training Day is much better than anything off of sat.

That makes sense.

Wayne

Anybody experience a problem with the LBX mode in 480i HDMI only? The first 72 did not work, had it swapped, the new 72 worked fine for a couple hours during set up, but the next day it would not do LBX mode again. I can't find anyone else with a similar problem and would assume its a setting that I'm missing. Oddly enough all the other resolutions on either HDMI or component work just fine.


Kevin

Will most universal mounts work with this PJ?

Something like this...

http://www.projectorbundles.com/ProductImages/mounts/white%20mount.jpg

Was the Toshiba HD-DVD player set to output 720p? It is known this player has problems with this resolution and should always be set to 1080i regardless of projector resolution.

Good point and no, I did not check for that. The native display was 720p however. I thought that this provided 1:1 pixel mapping? I have a 720p display, HD72, and based on what I saw I would wait until next version. Load time was HUGE, too.

I may be in the minority, but what I saw was not worth buying unless it was just a bad disk. How's the upconversion look on the HD72? I may just take Fifth Element in to BB and try playing it to see how this works.

I have the Toshiba along with the hd72. The picture is perfect. If your seeing noise it is from the hd transfer. Training Day is much better than anything off of sat.

I'm spoiled to Verizon Fios. Now THAT is much better than satellite :D

Good point and no, I did not check for that. The native display was 720p however. I thought that this provided 1:1 pixel mapping? I have a 720p display, HD72, and based on what I saw I would wait until next version. Load time was HUGE, too.

Everything I have read about the Toshiba HD player says the 720P output is horrible. The 1080i output is stunning and the upconversion is terrific too.

I run mine at 720p for SD dvd's and it seems fine. Is anyone else running this way?

Everything I have read about the Toshiba HD player says the 720P output is horrible. The 1080i output is stunning and the upconversion is terrific too.

Agreed - this has been reported by everyone regarding this HD player. The Optoma does a much better scaling to 720p than the Toshiba. Normally, you would want the output to be 720p (in my opinion) but not with this player.

Digital_diemma, et al. -- the Tosh player MUST be set at 1080i for HD DVD discs. I also think there is a colorspace issue over HDMI. For playing HD DVD discs, use component, and ABSOLUTELY at 1080i. The disc should look great.

I watch Aeon Flux, which is supposed to be reference, and over HDMI I could not get the flesh tones right, and the whites seemed to be blooming. I swithced inputs to component and it was quite beautiful.

Also, check to see which firmware you have on the Tosh. It should be 1.2 or greater.

The OPPO has DVI output, and the satellite box (DirecTV HD) has HDMI output. The HD72 has a DVI input and an HDMI input as well.

When I was ready for the install, Monoprice was out of HDMI-HDMI and DVI-DVI cables both, so I just bought two 35' DVI-HDMI cables. I use one on the OPPO, with the DVI end connected to the DVD player, HDMI end connected to the HD72.

I use the same cable but "flipped around" on the satellite box. HDMI end is attached to the box, DVI end to the HD72. Both work perfectly. I've never had a single handshake problem, sync issue, dropout, or any other issues with either one. Note that I find the monoprice 35' cables very high quality. They are thick gauge, and have very nice connectors on the ends. Most impressive for the money.

I also ran an RG6 coax cable with RCA connector adapters on each end, to pass composite video from my receiver, for on-screen display. Cheaper (and probably better as it's shielded) than buying a long composite cable, since I have a couple spools of RG6 laying around. It also works great on the HD72.

I have to say though after working with these cables, physically DVI is a far superior connector to HDMI. They took a big step back going to the lame HDMI connector.
I know this is an old thread. I am just trying to catch up to all of the current topics. But I have to chime in on this old thread. HDMI connectors have been extraordinarily painful in my situation. I like that they are smaller and, correct me if I am wrong, can handle more bandwidth and the like. However, I have a 15M(~50ft) Audioquest HDMI 1 cable.

At first I ran it directly to the HD72 from my DVD player. It was fantastic. It was especially beautiful on the Superbit DVDs. But I don't want to watch every DVD on a 92" screen. In my opinion, some DVDs just aren't worthy of my projector bulb life. So I would have to swap out HDMI cables (projector or HDTV). What a royal pain that was.

So I bought a Gefen splitter/switch and a 1M(3ft) HDMI. Man I tell ya, I could not get a damn signal to my projector. Then I found out I had to get a repeater. At first it didn't work! I was absolutely PO'd man. Spending all that money on the extras you know what I mean? :mad:

Then a couple of days later, I was messing around with some other connections. I had the HD72 & DVD on. Then out of the blue there was my picture. It turned out that I had to curve the cable in such a way that the right and down side had to have more tension to maintain a signal. WHAT? :eek:

At least with the DVI connection, you screw it down. God forbid if a guy has move stuff around in his entertainment center/rack and accidentally touches that damn HDMI connection! :rolleyes:

Thanks for letting me RANT. Whew

Good point and no, I did not check for that. The native display was 720p however. I thought that this provided 1:1 pixel mapping? I have a 720p display, HD72, and based on what I saw I would wait until next version. Load time was HUGE, too.

I may be in the minority, but what I saw was not worth buying unless it was just a bad disk. How's the upconversion look on the HD72? I may just take Fifth Element in to BB and try playing it to see how this works.


The A1's upconversion is the best I've seen - and I have the Oppo. HDMI->HDMI works best as it is the only one to pass BTB (blacker than black) otherwise you'll need to artificially boost the brightness.

The upconversion from 480i->720p is excellent for SD-DVDs, but for HD-DVDs downconversion from 1080p24->720p in the Tosh is absolute garbage. 1080p24->1080i to the HD72 and letting the HD72 deal with 1080i is the only way to go.

Mike

Digital_diemma, et al. -- the Tosh player MUST be set at 1080i for HD DVD discs. I also think there is a colorspace issue over HDMI. For playing HD DVD discs, use component, and ABSOLUTELY at 1080i. The disc should look great.

I watch Aeon Flux, which is supposed to be reference, and over HDMI I could not get the flesh tones right, and the whites seemed to be blooming. I swithced inputs to component and it was quite beautiful.

Also, check to see which firmware you have on the Tosh. It should be 1.2 or greater.

FWIW I've calibrated the HD72 and the A1 with DVI (digital RGB), component (YPbPr), and HDMI (YCbCr) and the HDMI *after calibration* was the best of the three. It was the only A1 output to pass BTB properly (version 1.4 firmware). There is no colorspace issue that I found. The contrast, brightness, RGB gains/bias all need to be adjusted though as each input is unique (significantly). I'll post some settings for reference later this evening that you could try, but at the least get out your Avia/DVE/GetGray disk to fix brightness and contrast. Component will also prevent upscaling with SD-DVD.

Mike

I'll post some settings for reference later this evening that you could try, but at the least get out your Avia/DVE/GetGray disk to fix brightness and contrast. Component will also prevent upscaling with SD-DVD.

Mike

Mike, I'd really like to see your settings over HDMI. I've tinkered with all the settings - eyeballing the pic (no Avia, although I have an old one). I find eyballing is the best for me. I just seem to get a more pleasing PQ over component. It may pass BTB over HDMI, but the whites seem to bloom and I just can't get skin tones right.

For now I use component for HD DVDs, and HDMI for SD upconversion. There doesn't seem to be the same issue for me with the upscaled DVDs over HDMI -- they look fine. (I use a comopnent switcher to toggle between the Tosh HD DVD and my HD set top box from TWC).

Also, are you using firmware 1.4 or 1.2? (I'm using 1.4)

I suppose I'll need to try this HD-DVD out at another location. i went back to my local shop and checked the settings. 1080i via HDMI. Tried component. No better. Tried another display. No better. Tried upconversion. Blocky images. For example, glistening beads of perspiration on a face appeared as large pixels of white rectangular blocks.

Here are my HDMI settings with the A1:
BrilliantColor=1, TrueVivid=0, Color Temp=1, Color=0, Tint=0, Sharpness=0
PC Degamma
Main Contrast 16
Red Gain 2
Green Gain -12
Blue Gain -19
Main Brightness 4
Red Bias -18
Green Bias -14
Blue Bias -15

Attached is the grayscale measurements I took. Pretty flat to 6504K! Tuning with your eyes just doesn't work (in my opinion) as your brain tends to compensate. You really need a sensor to dial it in right. This is after months of trying to dial it correctly with Avia - got closer but still way off!

I used the Spyder2 colorimeter and CalMAN SW to do this.

Mike

I'm really impressed with Optoma right now.

They're processing a hot swap for me for the little smudge and I got the $300 rebate back already. They processed the rebate door to door in less then 4 weeks!

Here are my HDMI settings with the A1:
BrilliantColor=1, TrueVivid=0, Color Temp=1, Color=0, Tint=0, Sharpness=0
PC Degamma
Main Contrast 16
Red Gain 2
Green Gain -12
Blue Gain -19
Main Brightness 4
Red Bias -18
Green Bias -14
Blue Bias -15

Attached is the grayscale measurements I took. Pretty flat to 6504K! Tuning with your eyes just doesn't work (in my opinion) as your brain tends to compensate. You really need a sensor to dial it in right. This is after months of trying to dial it correctly with Avia - got closer but still way off!

I used the Spyder2 colorimeter and CalMAN SW to do this.

Mike

Thank, I'll try it. Do you leave AI off, and use bright mode for the bulb?

Henry

Mike,

I tried your settings, bravo. The Tosh HD DVD looked pretty good over HDMI. A few quibbles: slightly blue cast watching the Mandhurian Candidate, but it's much better than a green cast. I also thought the color was still too saturated and looked a bit unnatural, so I lowered it to -2.

On the very positive side, you managed to get the skin tones right -- something I could never get right.

I always liked to have ambient light in the room, and the HD 72 is very bright, but since shadow detail is lost, on HDMI Tosh HD DVD mode, I'm leaving the lights off. I don't have to do this on my HD STB component mode.

I'm using the HD 72's AI funtion in the on position with HD DVD HDMI, or just burning the bulb on the bright mode . I leave it on low for my HD STB component setting

Thanks, again for sharing these great settings!

Henry

I think the actual settings will vary from projector to projector but that should be a great starting point.

I found a review in Cine4home. It may be the European version, HD72i, and I assume the review is translated from the German. They do talk about a chroma bug over HDMI.

http://www.cine4home.com/ (click on the second review)

I use it low mode. I have a screen gain of 1.3-1.4 (Carada BW) so it's plenty bright for me.

Glad you found the settings helpful. EE is right it will vary from projector to projector but it certainly couldn't hurt compared to the OTB settings! It could certainly get you in the right direction.

I can post other settings if needed as well. I really like how on the component input you can save unique RGB settings for each resolution.

Mike

For those interested in calibrating your HD72 with the Spyder2 colorimeter I've started a thread here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=709826) for questions, how to, etc.

Mike

I can post other settings if needed as well. I really like how on the component input you can save unique RGB settings for each resolution.

Mike

Could you post your 1080i settings over component? Although, my STB outputs 720p as well as 1080i, I don't see a difference at all. I prefer 1080i. So if you have those 1080i settings over component I would appreciate your posting them.

I have my 480p SD STB settings down pat, and they look quite nice. Thanks.

Henry

I have the HD72 on the way and was wondering if my current Carada screen will work ok? I have the Classic Cinema White with a gain of 1.0.


I use it low mode. I have a screen gain of 1.3-1.4 (Carada BW) so it's plenty bright for me.

Glad you found the settings helpful. EE is right it will vary from projector to projector but it certainly couldn't hurt compared to the OTB settings! It could certainly get you in the right direction.

I can post other settings if needed as well. I really like how on the component input you can save unique RGB settings for each resolution.

Mike

I have the HD72 on the way and was wondering if my current Carada screen will work ok? I have the Classic Cinema White with a gain of 1.0.

Definitely, I almost got the CCW Carada, but decided on the BW for bulb longevity. The blacks will be better with your screen.

I am getting ready to mount my new HD72 and wanted to know what is the best position of the zoom... low or middle ?

So far from what a customer rep from Optoma told me was it is best to be in the middle of the zoom range. Is this true?

Anyone else experience this? I've tried LG 7832 DVI to PJ DVI and to HDMI and neither works. The LG just keeps locking up. Only the component connection seems to work for this player and PJ combo. Anyone have a workaround?
Bud

I am getting ready to mount my new HD72 and wanted to know what is the best position of the zoom... low or middle ?

So far from what a customer rep from Optoma told me was it is best to be in the middle of the zoom range. Is this true?

You get the most brightness at max zoom (larger opening). But with the HD72 you don't need to worry about brightness. Zoom it anywhere.

So after reading a bunch on this forum and other review sites I see that the Mitsubishi HC3000 seems to be favored over the HD72. Is the Mits that much better than the HD72? Has anyone on here seen both of these in action?

So after reading a bunch on this forum and other review sites I see that the Mitsubishi HC3000 seems to be favored over the HD72. Is the Mits that much better than the HD72? Has anyone on here seen both of these in action?
I went through the same issues before buying the hd72, as good as the projectorreview seems for the mits, the difference was negated by almost any ambient light... just be happy with the excellent picture quality of the hd72 and enjoy the money you saved in the process, i know i am.

Just got my HD72 up this weekend, replacing the Infocus 4805. I was thinking the HD pic would be a big jump, but I have to say, not yet. I know I still have a lot of tweaking to do. The pic is not worse, and it is better, but not by much, yet. I do have one issue - I cannot get a clear pic with a 480p signal over component from Denon 1920dvd or Xbox. Proj runs both in 480i fine, so I know its not the cable. Is there a setting somewhere I am missing? PJ gets a signal and shows a picture, but is is like the pic is doubled 1/4" off, impossible to watch. the 480i runs fine. Both of them run fine thru the 4805 @ 480p. Thoughts?

has anyone else noticed a metalic smell from their HD72? last night mine began emitting one - smells like an electrical issue. i only have (per the bulb menu) about 60 hours or so on the projector, and am concerned about it.

i didn't notice any discernable differences in performance, but my pj is ceiling mounted only a few feet from the air conditioning duct, and when the AC kicked on i could suddenly smell it.

i've dropped optoma customer support a note, and am waiting to hear back, but i thought i'd poll around and see if anyone else has seen (smelled? ;) ) this issue.

has anyone else noticed a metalic smell from their HD72? last night mine began emitting one - smells like an electrical issue. i only have (per the bulb menu) about 60 hours or so on the projector, and am concerned about it.

i didn't notice any discernable differences in performance, but my pj is ceiling mounted only a few feet from the air conditioning duct, and which the AC kicked on i could suddenly smell it.

i've dropped optoma customer support a note, and am waiting to hear back, but i thought i'd poll around and see if anyone else has seen (smelled? ;) )

Maybe it's coming from your A/C which is cooked from overworking the last month. :D

Maybe it's coming from your A/C which is cooked from overworking the last month. :D

don't laugh: i briefly contemplated that when searching for the source. unfortunately, it was the HD72. ;)

Just got my HD72 up this weekend, replacing the Infocus 4805. I was thinking the HD pic would be a big jump, but I have to say, not yet. I know I still have a lot of tweaking to do. The pic is not worse, and it is better, but not by much, yet. I do have one issue - I cannot get a clear pic with a 480p signal over component from Denon 1920dvd or Xbox. Proj runs both in 480i fine, so I know its not the cable. Is there a setting somewhere I am missing? PJ gets a signal and shows a picture, but is is like the pic is doubled 1/4" off, impossible to watch. the 480i runs fine. Both of them run fine thru the 4805 @ 480p. Thoughts?

To be fair, comparing an HD to an SD projector, while feeding it an SD signal, is kind of pointless.

Not sure about the signal though. What does doubled 1/4" off mean? Could you take a picture? There are many people here that could tell you if it's a problem with the projector or a setting.

I was actually referring to HDTV signal. It is better, but not as much as I was expecting, but like I said, I have a lot of tweaking to do.

As far as the 480p, it is like there is a mirror image right beside each other, but it is not there on 480i. I will try to take a pic tonite and post. Thanks for the reply

has anyone else noticed a metalic smell from their HD72? last night mine began emitting one - smells like an electrical issue. i only have (per the bulb menu) about 60 hours or so on the projector, and am concerned about it.


Definitely. I have about 30 hours on my bulb. The smell is distinctive, but faint, so I'm not too worried about it yet. Let us know what Optoma's CS has to say, if anything.

Definitely. I have about 30 hours on my bulb. The smell is distinctive, but faint, so I'm not too worried about it yet. Let us know what Optoma's CS has to say, if anything.

Your projector may be overheating. Try the high altitude fan setting (in the menu)
and see if the smell goes away.

I had the same problem with my first HD72 and I returned the projector to
Optoma for exchange. My new projector is working properly.

I do not know what caused my first projector to smell, but when I increased
the fan speed, it went away.

My old Infocus 4805 would smell, if I ran it too long on a hot night. Must be
all of the plastic inside these machines getting hot from the lamp.

Just got my HD72 up this weekend, replacing the Infocus 4805. I was thinking the HD pic would be a big jump, but I have to say, not yet. I know I still have a lot of tweaking to do. The pic is not worse, and it is better, but not by much, yet.

I'm surprised - you're feeding it a 1080i signal? When I'm watching HDTV with a good 1080i signal the picture is signifigantly better than my friends 4805.

If your HD cable box is feeding the PJ a 720P try switching to 1080i. In my case, the HD72 does a better job of converting the signal to 720P than my Motorola tuner HD cable box.

I have tried switching to 1080i and actually that is where it is set now. It seems to be a softer pic. I am going to get my AVIA disc out this weekend and tune some. We have a local ISF guy around here, so at about 300 hrs, I am going to get the full tune. I have no doubts about the pj, it is just out of the box the 4805 was killer.

The shadow problem is only thru component 480p. HDMI 480p is fine. Not sure what to do next. My XBOX is the only thing I run component now, hopefully, the will upgrade the 360 to HDMI soon so I can justify that purchase.

all: I just received this message from Optoma regarding the "metallic" smell:

"The smell is normal. The more the unit is used, the smell will dissipate."

all: I just received this message from Optoma regarding the "metallic" smell:

"The smell is normal. The more the unit is used, the smell will dissipate."

A loose interpretation of that being "once whatever it is has burnt off". :rolleyes:

Chris.

A loose interpretation of that being "once whatever it is has burnt off". :rolleyes:

Chris.

hehe very true. I'm on my second HD72 and neither made any kind of metallic smell.

My new HD72 just arrived today and I am quite pleased coming from a 4805 with a dying color wheel. I did some rudimentary calibration with AVIA and the picture is very nice. It's also *very* bright. I don't have curtains in the room yet and am just making do with blinds so my room is very bright in the day time. I turned it on during right after the UPS guy left since I was impatient and was able to actually watch some various HD episodes of shows I have on my HTPC even with all the diffused sunlight in the room. That's not to say that I could see much shadow detail, but coupled with my 106" GraywolfII, I'm fairly confident I will be able to watch movies and such even with some lights on.

Of course I must mention the rainbows. Rainbows don't bother me at all so I was quite happy with the 4805 even though I was bombarded by them every time I turned my head too quickly or blinked rabidly even with an ND2 filter. That said, it is *very* hard to notice them on the HD72. I've only seen them once even though I swung my head side to side to the point that I almost got dizzy.

And the noise. After having the 4805 jet-engine-like noise filling my room for so long, the HD72 seems almost silent even though I am literally sitting 1 foot away from it table mounted.

Overall, I am very pleased with the upgrade since it didn't put me into debt just to get it and the picture is very nice. Of course I am no pro and I might just be fooling myself into believing that the money I paid was worth it.

Hey sorry for the pretty stupid question but I can calibrate with Avia DVD via HDMI but how do I calibrate my HDTV signal which is coming in via component?

My new HD72 just arrived today and I am quite pleased coming from a 4805 with a dying color wheel. I did some rudimentary calibration with AVIA and the picture is very nice. It's also *very* bright. I don't have curtains in the room yet and am just making do with blinds so my room is very bright in the day time. I turned it on during right after the UPS guy left since I was impatient and was able to actually watch some various HD episodes of shows I have on my HTPC even with all the diffused sunlight in the room. That's not to say that I could see much shadow detail, but coupled with my 106" GraywolfII, I'm fairly confident I will be able to watch movies and such even with some lights on.

Of course I must mention the rainbows. Rainbows don't bother me at all so I was quite happy with the 4805 even though I was bombarded by them every time I turned my head too quickly or blinked rabidly even with an ND2 filter. That said, it is *very* hard to notice them on the HD72. I've only seen them once even though I swung my head side to side to the point that I almost got dizzy.

And the noise. After having the 4805 jet-engine-like noise filling my room for so long, the HD72 seems almost silent even though I am literally sitting 1 foot away from it table mounted.

Overall, I am very pleased with the upgrade since it didn't put me into debt just to get it and the picture is very nice. Of course I am no pro and I might just be fooling myself into believing that the money I paid was worth it.

Sounds good, HDTV has to look amazing after having a SDTV machine. 720p looked way superior on the HD72 coming from a XGA machine.

MUCHO,

As far as I know, the only way to do this is to find a station that is putting up a test signal pattern and eyeball it to where it seems right to you. Not very scientific.

I understand that INHD apparently has one of these patterns up very early in the morning.

Perhaps someone else has another idea about this.

Wayne

Hey sorry for the pretty stupid question but I can calibrate with Avia DVD via HDMI but how do I calibrate my HDTV signal which is coming in via component?


I used my A1's upconverting component output. It's not perfect as the color decoding is off (NTSC 601 vs HD 709 color matrix) and any other minor differences in the device outputs, but it works great - especially if you can't afford a signal generator. If your just using AVIA however (no colorimeter) you won't be getting that accurate anyhow.

This is where Guitarman's expensive toolset comes in handy and where a mail-in calibration pays off.

Yeah I just did an H77 for someone and they had 0's applied in the Advanced RGB/gain/bias adjustments. They didn't like the color for HDTV it was all green. Actually it showed high blue and green. Use your advanced gain/bias adjustments at least to try to take color bias out of steps of gray. View a gray steps pattern pls.

Hi Guys, I have a little problem with my hd72. I get occasional horizontal flashes across the screen. They only last for a spit second but it is annoying. Anyone else experiencing this??? Thanks

bump

I'd look into wire problems first. There's a thing called ground loop where you'll see horizontal lines creeping up the screen. Not what you're seeing I'd still try different cables and different devices.

If you aren't using a power conditioner, get one and see if it makes a difference. It should.

http://gallery.avsforum.com/uploads/66496/md_IMG_1292.JPG

I'm about to start learning to use the Calman/Spyder2 calibration package, and I'm wondering if anyone knows what these vertical lines (kind of like ghostly after/pre-images) are on my HD72 display? I see this sort of thing in movies, as well...

This image is from the GetGray calibration disc.

Thanks, in advance.

It looks like edge enhancement either on the disc itself or caused by having your sharpness control too high. I see this kind of thing as well.

When I auditioned the Toshiba HD-DVD player, this artifact wasn't present at all. It was very cool to view a DVD without seeing EE.

Wayne

According to their TV listing, HDnet displays a test pattern every morning from 6:50 am until 7:00 am. I haven't seen it yet, but need to.

I'm about to start learning to use the Calman/Spyder2 calibration package, and I'm wondering if anyone knows what these vertical lines (kind of like ghostly after/pre-images) are on my HD72 display? I see this sort of thing in movies, as well...

This image is from the GetGray calibration disc.

Thanks, in advance.

Hi swest,

I would recommend posting your calibration questions here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=709826) in the HD72 calibration thread as it will get a lot of visibility from ISF pro calibrators as well as the developers of CalMAN (Bear5K and derekjsmith).

I would also guess edge enhancement - which may come from your DVD player or too high of sharpness setting on your HD72.

Mike

Hi swest,

I would recommend posting your calibration questions here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=709826) in the HD72 calibration thread as it will get a lot of visibility from ISF pro calibrators as well as the developers of CalMAN (Bear5K and derekjsmith).

I would also guess edge enhancement - which may come from your DVD player or too high of sharpness setting on your HD72.

Mike

I will do that. However, the question is really unrelated to calibration and I probably shouldn't even have mentioned it.

I get these sorts of 'ringing' (is that an appropriate word?) artifacts from many sources. I have modified the sharpness on both my DV-79AVI as well as my HD72. Those modifications never result in any noticeable changes to this problem.

Perhaps this is related to cabling? I am using an HDMI connection with an HDMI switch.

I think I'll experiment with my cabling setup (and also look at the same image via component) to see if I can change it at all.

Thanks.

I will do that. However, the question is really unrelated to calibration and I probably shouldn't even have mentioned it.

I get these sorts of 'ringing' (is that an appropriate word?) artifacts from many sources. I have modified the sharpness on both my DV-79AVI as well as my HD72. Those modifications never result in any noticeable changes to this problem.

Perhaps this is related to cabling? I am using an HDMI connection with an HDMI switch.

I think I'll experiment with my cabling setup (and also look at the same image via component) to see if I can change it at all.

Thanks.

I would guess it's not the cabling - especially HDMI which either sparkles or won't display anything at all if there's a cable problem. Many times it's just a scaling artifact of the device you're using and no control will tame it down.

Mike

Hey people. I have recently upgraded from an Infocus X1 to an Infocus IN76 and whilst I am incredibly happy with the picture quality I'm finding that despite the fact that the IN76 was nearly silent when it was temporarily positioned on a table in front of my sofa, it is far too noisy when ceiling mounted above the sofa. I have updated the firmware (which is supposed to improve matters), but noticed no drastic improvement in the noise level. As it stands, I'm currently considering selling it and replacing it with an HD72, as I am under the impression that they are considerably quieter than the IN76. Basically I would be very grateful to hear from anyone who has used both projectors, mainly to get an idea of the relative noise levels of the two, but also the image quality that they offer. Regarding image quality, I get the impression that the IN76 is much better calibrated straight out of the box, but is the HD72 noticeably worse once calibrated with AVIA/DVE? Thanks in advance,

IN76 was nearly silent when it was temporarily positioned on a table in front of my sofa, it is far too noisy when ceiling mounted above the sofa. I have updated the firmware (which is supposed to improve matters), but noticed no drastic improvement in the noise level. ,

I had the exact same problem! I sold my IN76 because it was too loud and bought the HD72! I could not be happier with the HD72, although it is not as well calibrated out of the box. I used Avia and am very happy with the picture! Outstanding! The HD72 is very quiet also!

Shambla, I haven't owned an IN76, but I have my HD72 ceiling mounted above the sofa, and it is very quiet.

The exception: if you need to run the pj in "high altitude" mode because of atmospheric or temp reasons, then the fan noise is certainly noticeable.

Yup, the HD72 is bright and quiet. It's often dismissed compared to the other low cost 720p DLP competitors but I would still purchase it today as I am sensitive to noise (rules out IN76) and the HC3000 lacks 2.35 aspect ratio scaling (need an extra $1-1.5K external scaler, plus the HD72 has 2 digital inputs and is brighter).

It's a great buy! You can get accurate colors by hiring an ISF calibrator or purchasing a Spyder colorimeter and easy to use CalMAN SW at about 1/10th the cost of the HD72 (you get greater than 10% improvement in picture quality though!) For more see here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=709826)...

Now the wait for affordable 1080p...

Agree completely with both...

The HD72 is loud in high-altitude mode, but I never use that here in NC!

Also, I do plan on getting the calibration kit mentioned above to calibrate grey scale - that is probably the biggest out of the box difference with the IN76 in my opinion. Excellent projector! I have no idea why others might dismiss it - it compares very very well with the IN76!

I've been tickled pink by the upgrade from the 4805 to the HD72. Extremely happy.

I'm using the Tosh HD DVD player with the new firmware, 2.0. When I use 'source lock' it works to keep the HD72 locked in HDMI as the Tosh goes through it's gyrations to get to the film. The problem is if you switch sources or shut down the HD72, the source lock reverts to off. Is there any way of keeping the source lock in the 'on' position permanently?

I'm using the Tosh HD DVD player with the new firmware, 2.0. When I use 'source lock' it works to keep the HD72 locked in HDMI as the Tosh goes through it's gyrations to get to the film. The problem is if you switch sources or shut down the HD72, the source lock reverts to off. Is there any way of keeping the source lock in the 'on' position permanently?

Unfortunately no. This is especially apparant with the A1! I'm always scrambling to turn on source lock before I lose signal and it goes off searching for a different source. I'd prefer to see it implemented so it is either off or on and the setting is stored in non-volatile memory...most other settings are done that way. Surprising why this is not.

Unfortunately no. This is especially apparant with the A1! I'm always scrambling to turn on source lock before I lose signal and it goes off searching for a different source. I'd prefer to see it implemented so it is either off or on and the setting is stored in non-volatile memory...most other settings are done that way. Surprising why this is not.

Well, I guess the only way is to turn on the A1 and when in the 'welcome' mode go into the 'source lock' in the HD72 and turn it on. You'll have plenty of time, as you know, that 'welcome' is there for quite a while. ;)

My HD72 shut down while watching a movie and the Lamp and Temp lights flashed.

I only have 113 hours on lamp. Has anyone experienced this problem?

Thanks,

Bob

Just got my 6800 (HD72) up and running. Noticed a bit of motion blur during fast camera pans. Is there any way to limit this effect?

Thanks

6800 is not HD72,

How do you get in to the factory menu in HD72 to check your firmware?

I have noticed lately that there is fine translucent line coming down from the top of the screen. At first I thought it may be a scratch but on closer examination I noticed it swaying like it was in the wind and upon putting the fan in High Altitude mode I noticed it moving more. I thought the HD72 had sealed optics but I'm almost certain that it wasn't there originally which leads me to believe that it has found its way in there. I currently have the pj located close to the floor and I do have a cat. Is it possible for foreign material to make its way into the optical path? And if so can I easily get in there to clan it out? I purchased it imported so I can't really send it back. It's driving me crazy, and any help would be appreciated.

Don't be a weiner quarterbrain.....

I have noticed lately that there is fine translucent line coming down from the top of the screen. At first I thought it may be a scratch but on closer examination I noticed it swaying like it was in the wind and upon putting the fan in High Altitude mode I noticed it moving more. I thought the HD72 had sealed optics but I'm almost certain that it wasn't there originally which leads me to believe that it has found its way in there. I currently have the pj located close to the floor and I do have a cat. Is it possible for foreign material to make its way into the optical path? And if so can I easily get in there to clan it out? I purchased it imported so I can't really send it back. It's driving me crazy, and any help would be appreciated.

I had something similar with my 6800, though it wasn't a hair. Someone left fingerprints/smudges in the inside of the optics and this produced two basketball sized blobs in my image (92" screen). Very annoying. Not much you can do short of sending it back. It does have sealed optics so I highly, highly doubt it happened after you got the PJ.

Now for my issue:

I've posted this in the 6800 thread but I'm trying to get a gauge of whether any HD72 owners are experiencing the same thing.

My first 6800 was silent but my replacement (due to the blobs) makes unwanted noises. Not the fan (which I can completely ignore), but it's got horrible colour wheel whine. If you enter the theater room, it's the first thing you hear. It's a high pitched, slightly-varying whine that drills right into your skull and colours the audio. It is not 'loud' (so not obviously defective-sounding), but the frequency is such that it cannot be ignored.

The image, though, is pristine.

Anyone's HD72 suffer from the same problem?

My experiences are telling me that Optoma has very very poor quality control. I want to see how widespread it is or whether I am simply very unlucky. My Graywolf II also came with a dent/bow in its case.

6800 is not HD72,

How do you get in to the factory menu in HD72 to check your firmware?

Funny, the manual I got with my 6800 refers to it as an HD72.

Rosso, I can hear the colour wheel once in a while as well although it's not annoying. It's mostly noticeable on the blue screen when no inputs are selected but only when I turn my head in a certain way.

I also seem to be somewhat sensitive to the RBE, as I notice them on movies with subtitles. Hopefully this goes away as I get used to the larger screen and the pojector dims a bit. Otherwise the picture is great, very watchable during the day and stunning at night. I'm extremely happy with my HD6800.

Well, I finally made the upgrade from the dying Toshiba 36" to an Optoma HD72 projector this week, with a 92" Greywolf II. It took a while to set up the basement as a home theater room, and it's not completely finshed, but here's what I got so far:

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a150/IkariWarrior/IM000283.jpg
One corner of the room. Carpets not finished yet, but the whole room is surrounded with shelves like this, with the speakers on top in every corner.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a150/IkariWarrior/IM000286-1.jpg
The DVD shelf I built.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a150/IkariWarrior/IM000288-1.jpg
Screen down and ready.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a150/IkariWarrior/IM000289.jpg
One of the better shots I could get, GRAW on the Xbox 360.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a150/IkariWarrior/IM000290.jpg
Saving Private Ryan, upconverted to 720p using Xbox 360 VGA.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a150/IkariWarrior/IM000297.jpg
ESPN on HD cable.

I still have some tweaking to do but so far I'm pretty happy.

You should consider buying some DVDs....

Wayne

I tried starting a thread on this, but this question would probably be better answered here:

I have searched and searched and cannot find the offsets for each of these projectors. My current setup has a shelf mounted H30. I have the newest firmware which apparently changed the offset of this projector. I want to purchase an HD72 before the end of the week (rebate!), but need to know how the offset and throw ratio's compare (I hope this swap would basically be plug and play. Anyone else make this switch? How much of an improvement have you seen? I'm also debating over whether it is worth spending an extra $100 to buy the projector from a vendor that offers a free bulb. Thanks for any input.

I am still getting ghosting images about 1/4" to the right when I display in 480p thru component. HDMI is ok at any resolution, and 480i is ok thru component. It doesn't matter if it is the XBOX or Denon 1920 at 480p. Any one else have this issue? I think my component in may be bad. I hope not.

I just ordered the HD72 - should be here later this week. Projector Point said they only had 2 of the free bulbs left. Of course, they might have a better promo in a couple weeks.

I'm upgrading from an old Sony vpl-w400q. That had a nice picture, but it was a beast and needed a new bulb. I'll take some pics when I have everything installed.

I'm using the Tosh HD DVD player with the new firmware, 2.0. When I use 'source lock' it works to keep the HD72 locked in HDMI as the Tosh goes through it's gyrations to get to the film. The problem is if you switch sources or shut down the HD72, the source lock reverts to off. Is there any way of keeping the source lock in the 'on' position permanently?

It sounds like you have other inputs hooked up to your HD72, if not you can disable the other inputs so that the HDMI is the only active input, then it will never "unlock"; you could also do it temporarily if you ARE using other inputs.

How many users have upgraded their HD-A1's to 2.0? If you did, is everything working ok, and if you happen to be using it with DVI did it fix the BTB/WTW issue?

It sounds like you have other inputs hooked up to your HD72, if not you can disable the other inputs so that the HDMI is the only active input, then it will never "unlock"; you could also do it temporarily if you ARE using other inputs.

I said in my post I had other inputs/sources. And why would i want to disable them? :eek: When the HD DVD player is in welcome mode, I enable source lock. Unfortunately I have to do this every time I fire up the Tosh.

I just ordered the HD72 - should be here later this week. Projector Point said they only had 2 of the free bulbs left. Of course, they might have a better promo in a couple weeks.

I'm upgrading from an old Sony vpl-w400q. That had a nice picture, but it was a beast and needed a new bulb. I'll take some pics when I have everything installed.

I'm still waiting for someone to chime in on the offset of this projector. Just thought I'd let you guys know that I just ordered one of these through Projector Point. There were 2 free bulbs left before my order so they may be gone at this point. I'm very excited!

I'm still waiting for someone to chime in on the offset of this projector. Just thought I'd let you guys know that I just ordered one of these through Projector Point. There were 2 free bulbs left before my order so they may be gone at this point. I'm very excited!

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Optoma-HD72-projection-calculator-pro.htm

Should answer your offset/screen size answers....

EDIT:

Sorry I guess there's no offset there.

By the numbers, this projector is 32-38% offset (percent of screen height above or below screen depending on mounting) depending on zoom.

In reality you can get away with a bit less (and in my experience quite a bit less) by just dropping a couple rows of pixels into the black border around your screen and tipping the projector back slightly.

The optical keystone on mine is NOT noticable, and I'm throwing a 106" image with about 12" of offset from the screen top, or roughly 23% offset.

-Mike

I am still getting ghosting images about 1/4" to the right when I display in 480p thru component. HDMI is ok at any resolution, and 480i is ok thru component. It doesn't matter if it is the XBOX or Denon 1920 at 480p. Any one else have this issue? I think my component in may be bad. I hope not.

Tyr another progressive player. If when using component outs and setting to 480i it produces a clean picture, I'd say the progressive output on the player might be suspect.

Hi Folks,

Noob here, lurked for a bit, first post... First off thanks for all the information/reviews/tips/etc. Without the stuff I've picked up here & from an online chum on the West Coast, I probably would've crumbled to the wife's whim and just gone with a TV instead of the Optoma HD72 that I'm now in the process of setting up in our low ceiling basement. Yes, I went with this model despite the offset issues since I'm not looking to throw a huge image. I hope I'm using the correct lingo I picked up here ;)

After agonizing for so long about the PJ, then the receiver (I went Yahama HTR-5990) I feel a bit silly doing the same thing over the ceiling mount, but that's just why I'm posting... (lengthiest intro ever?)

What's the lowest profile mount out there? It looks like most folks point to the Chief RPA Universal, but I've also seen an ad from Peerless claiming their PRS Series is "the lowest profile PJ mount on the market!" I also like the look of the Perfectmounts Optoma HD72 Elite, but that seems to hang a little lower. Anyone like (or hate) any one of these for any reason?

I realize this is sort of like arguing who's prettier, Selma or Patty, but I've gone this far down the path...

Any help is appreciated.

cheers,
NickD

I'm still waiting for someone to chime in on the offset of this projector. Just thought I'd let you guys know that I just ordered one of these through Projector Point. There were 2 free bulbs left before my order so they may be gone at this point. I'm very excited!

Good luck getting the bulb, I got mine from them last week and it came with a bulb. Just look up the tracking number they give you, if it says two poackages you're set.

The offset on this thing is big, more than I was expecting. I thought I'd be shelf mounting it too, but I had to put the projector on the floor to hit he screen, the bottom of which was at least 3 feet off the floor. I ended up inverting it an putting it near the ceiling on an old entertainment center I wasn't using, so far it looks good with a 92" screen set about a foot off the floor and a 12.5 ' throw distance.

I'm still waiting for someone to chime in on the offset of this projector. Just thought I'd let you guys know that I just ordered one of these through Projector Point. There were 2 free bulbs left before my order so they may be gone at this point. I'm very excited!

Jeff,

The vertical offset 'lens shift' for the HD72/6800 is 1.36" down from the center of the lens for every foot of distance away from the screen. So depending on the screen size your throwing will determine your distance and then you can calculate the offset drop from the ceiling.

You can find the HD72's calculator on this thread in the middle of pg 8.
Thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=671766&page=8&pp=30)


Also have a look at the throw range calcs at Projector Central for both the HD72 and H30. Using a 92"16:9 diag screen the H30 's range is 11.7ft to 14.2ft while the HD72 is 10.6ft to 12.7ft.

HD72 (http://www.projectorcentral.com/Optoma-HD72-projection-calculator-pro.htm)

Hope this helps you out.

Jeff,

The vertical offset 'lens shift' for the HD72/6800 is 1.36" down from the center of the lens for every foot of distance away from the screen. So depending on the screen size your throwing will determine your distance and then you can calculate the offset drop from the ceiling.

You can find the HD72's calculator on this thread in the middle of pg 8.
Thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=671766&page=8&pp=30)


Also have a look at the throw range calcs at Projector Central for both the HD72 and H30. Using a 92"16:9 diag screen the H30 's range is 11.7ft to 14.2ft while the HD72 is 10.6ft to 12.7ft.

HD72 (http://www.projectorcentral.com/Optoma-HD72-projection-calculator-pro.htm)

Hope this helps you out.

That is a big help. So the offset is 1.36" for every foot? The rep at Projector Point seemed to recall that the offset for the H30 was more extreme. Why can't I find this number?

I said in my post I had other inputs/sources. And why would i want to disable them? :eek: When the HD DVD player is in welcome mode, I enable source lock. Unfortunately I have to do this every time I fire up the Tosh.

let me break down for you so you can understand.

1) You did NOT say you "had other inputs/sources"you said you "switch sources". Apparently you do not know the difference. You can have multuple sources yet use only one input on the PJ (ex. HDMI DVD player and HDMI cable box).

2) You would disable the other inputs in the HD72 because you said you were having a problem with "source lock" with the HD-A1. By doing so the PJ will stay on the HDMI input even when the HD-A1 is booting up so you won't even need source lock.

That is a big help. So the offset is 1.36" for every foot? The rep at Projector Point seemed to recall that the offset for the H30 was more extreme. Why can't I find this number?

Jeff I don't have any first hand experience with an H30 so I can't help u much.

Did some quick searching, seems the H30 had a few different firmware releases that changed the offset by quite a bit, so it might help to check your firmware ver.

Here's a post about C08 & C05 version offsets (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4918776&highlight=offset#post4918776)

Also found this which seems to indicate a 1.75"throw angle for every ft distance for the H30. That seems to be correspond to the above post about the C05 firmware values of approx 22-24" drop on a 14ft throw, so I'll guess that it's based on C05. C08 is much less (~0.9")
H30 Offset (http://www.fallenturtledesign.com/random/h30_throwangle.gif)

Again ..hope it helps !

Jeff I don't have any first hand experience with an H30 so I can't help u much.

Did some quick searching, seems the H30 had a few different firmware releases that changed the offset by quite a bit, so it might help to check your firmware ver.

Here's a post about C08 & C05 version offsets (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4918776&highlight=offset#post4918776)

Also found this which seems to indicate a 1.75"throw angle for every ft distance for the H30. That seems to be correspond to the above post about the C05 firmware values of approx 22-24" drop on a 14ft throw, so I'll guess that it's based on C05. C08 is much less (~0.9")
H30 Offset (http://www.fallenturtledesign.com/random/h30_throwangle.gif)

Again ..hope it helps !


Again, that is a big help. Unfortunately, it looks like I won't be able to get away with minimal tilt on the HD72. Either way, with the rebate and the free bulb, there was no way I could pass this deal up. Thanks again.

Good luck getting the bulb, I got mine from them last week and it came with a bulb. Just look up the tracking number they give you, if it says two poackages you're set.


my tracking email says two packages are in the mail.

I wonder if they really only had 2 bulbs left, or if they tell everyone that to make sure you buy right away. Either way, I'm glad I got my order in. I'm also impressed with them shipping the package out the same day I ordered it.

Time to start building the mount...

let me break down for you so you can understand.

1) You did NOT say you "had other inputs/sources"you said you "switch sources". Apparently you do not know the difference. You can have multuple sources yet use only one input on the PJ (ex. HDMI DVD player and HDMI cable box).

2) You would disable the other inputs in the HD72 because you said you were having a problem with "source lock" with the HD-A1. By doing so the PJ will stay on the HDMI input even when the HD-A1 is booting up so you won't even need source lock.

I've asked that your post be edited. Personal abuse and insults are not appreciated.

jeff442,

You should download the manual from the optoma website (my post limit isn't high enough to allow posting a link). It has a chart on page 16 which details the image throw characteristics.

Specifically, the offset is listed as offset = L x tan(6.52), where L is the distance from screen to lens. That works to about 1.37" for every foot of distance.

Play nice gang. Insulting members can get you a suspension real quick.

Kyser

jeff,

i'm trying again, since i've got 5 posts.

Here's the link to the manual - the offset is detailed on page 16.
http://www.optomausa.com/PDFs/usermanuals/Optoma_HD72_en_v1.pdf

Tyr another progressive player. If when using component outs and setting to 480i it produces a clean picture, I'd say the progressive output on the player might be suspect.

Hooked up another dvd player straight into the HD72. No ghosting issues with either 480p or 480i. Went back and checked all my connections from, dvd=> receiver, rec=> proj. Crawled in attic and moved overhead cable around in case in was too close to an electrical wire(?). After all this, 480p is fine now. Xbox looks pretty good. Birthday is 18th - I wonder if a 360 will be coming my way? I guess it was a cableing issue, even though it wasn't happening in 480i. Odd but I am happy now. Thanks!

Glad you found it. Cable issues are sometimes hard to diagnose, but you approached it the exact right way.

First step should always be to hook the source directly to the projector using different cables and evaluating. That tells you it's cables. From there it's more tricky.

Being in an industry that uses cables, there are many things that are not visible to the naked eye that can make a cable defective, especially in things like an HDMI cable where an individual wire is pretty thin and easily compromised when it's kinked or stepped on. And of course then there's the signals in proximity problem that affects analog signals more than digital, but can still wreak havoc when it swamps the digital signal with noise.

Use high quality cables and keep them away from everything else. Only way to be sure.

Hooked up another dvd player straight into the HD72. No ghosting issues with either 480p or 480i. Went back and checked all my connections from, dvd=> receiver, rec=> proj. Crawled in attic and moved overhead cable around in case in was too close to an electrical wire(?). After all this, 480p is fine now. Xbox looks pretty good. Birthday is 18th - I wonder if a 360 will be coming my way? I guess it was a cableing issue, even though it wasn't happening in 480i. Odd but I am happy now. Thanks!


Glad you got it fixed. I'm not a long time gamer but I have to admit the Xbox 360 is killer. I only have Ghost Recon and Blazzing Angels but I could play these for days. The 360 should look excellent on the HD72, get it. :)

Anyone have any good ffdshow starting points? Previous pj was 480p so I never bothered. I found out today that this pj won't take 1024x768 over the HDMI port which is REALLY annoying since alot of games will default to 1024x768 the first time you start it.

I'm having a problem when switching from my HD-PVR (SA 8300) and my Oppo 971 dvd player ...

The 8300 is hooked up directly via hdmi.
The Oppo is hooked up directly via DVI.

When switching from the Oppo input to the 8300, everything's fine, BUT

when switching from the 8300 to the Oppo, I get a green strobe light effect.

The only way to get rid of this is to turn off the PJ first. Why no DVI-->HDMI problems, and, yet, HDMI-->DVI problems?

Any help would, as always, be appreciated.


P.S. Even though I bought this only 3 weeks ago, I have an older 604 serial #, and I just experienced the reset bug after 30 hours. I'll be contacting Optoma after the long weekend, but I just wanted to see if my HDMI-->DVI issue is another firmware bug or another issue altogether.

Am I mis-reading the zoom capabilities of this PJ? It apparently only lets you zoom +/- 10%. That's hardly a zoom. So, the zoom, if this is the case, is just for fine tuning and not for real flexibility?

Correct. Basically it gives you about a 2' window (depending on the size of the screen) on how for from the screen to mount it.

What I did is took my screen size, took the range, mounted the projector right in the center, and adjusted the zoom to fill the screen. I did not wind up in the exact center either, I'm about 1.15 zoom.


Anyway, you cannot mount this projector and start with an 80" screen and decide you want to go bigger without moving it.

Has anyone had any geometry problems with this pj? I just installed mine less then a week ago and I seem to be getting some very slight bowing in the middle of the image. I only notice it when hooking my laptop up with the dvi-d and seeing all the long horizontal bars in windows. It looks like the left and right side was pinned to the wall and someone grabbed the middle of the image and pulled it up slightly. Think of a really squished rainbow shape.

The projector is square with the wall and I'm not using any keystone adjustments. I know this is a common crt distortion but I thought it was impossiable with a fixed dmd. I'm just projecting on drywall atm but I can't see the wall being so warped that it would distort the image like this. Any ideas?

Hi all,

I just got my H72(well HD6800 really) mounted. I was wondering if anyone has checked for the chroma bug with HDMI-YPbPr with the north american units? I can't seem to get HDMI-RGB working, I'm using an HTPC and a 3806 Denon HDMI receiver. I tried setting both the receiver and projector to RGB but I get a green picture.

I was also curious for those of you with HTPC's, can you send 1024x768 over HDMI? My pj won't sync at 1024x768 on the HDMI connection.

I was also curious for those of you with HTPC's, can you send 1024x768 over HDMI? My pj won't sync at 1024x768 on the HDMI connection.


I just tested with my laptop over dvi-d like I said earlier. The projector told the laptop it wanted 1024x720. I didn't have anyway to force it to 1024x768 with the limited laptop vid drivers but I found it very odd it woudln't ask for its native 1024x768 unless the laptop drivers just woudlnt' output that at all so they settled on 1024x720.

Wondering if anyone can offer some advice. Just bought and installed an HD72 and love it.

My only problem is that I get a shimmery white horizontal line at the top of my picture when I run it off my comcast dvr (motorola). That doesn't happen when I switch to my dvd player and/or my xbox 360. I am also getting a much less noticeable blue vertical line on the left side of my picture from my xbox 360 and my cable box but not my dvd player.

I am running the projector with a 30' HDMI cable out of a JVC 402B receiver. My xbox and cable box are both Compenent connections to the reciever and then HDMI out to the projector...my dvd is HDMI to the receiver.

I called Optoma and they told me the problem was my cable box for the white line and they could do nothing for me. They also said he blue line could be corrected with a signal amplifier in the HDMI line.

Does this sound right?

Crap at the edge of the picture is pretty normal if you're running with no overscan. Try setting the zoom to 1 and see if it goes away.

Wondering if anyone can offer some advice. Just bought and installed an HD72 and love it.

My only problem is that I get a shimmery white horizontal line at the top of my picture when I run it off my comcast dvr (motorola). That doesn't happen when I switch to my dvd player and/or my xbox 360. I am also getting a much less noticeable blue vertical line on the left side of my picture from my xbox 360 and my cable box but not my dvd player.

I am running the projector with a 30' HDMI cable out of a JVC 402B receiver. My xbox and cable box are both Compenent connections to the reciever and then HDMI out to the projector...my dvd is HDMI to the receiver.

I called Optoma and they told me the problem was my cable box for the white line and they could do nothing for me. They also said he blue line could be corrected with a signal amplifier in the HDMI line.

Does this sound right?

I have this same issue occasionally and it's easily fixed by using the image shift on the remote, or in the (I think) dislay menu. There is both horizonal and vertical image shift. When I have the vertical line, it disapperars at about -32 on the image shift sliding scale. I wouldn't muck around with the zoom as you will lose a bit of your picture.

The only problem is that you're shifting the top of the image off, and leaving the bottom of the image exposed. If you have garbage at the top and the bottom that doesn't help you.

What you're doing with the vertical shift is moving the 1280x720 picture around on the 1280x768 DLP chip. -24 to +24 you don't lose any image, past that you're losing part of the image.

I hear what you're saying with zoom, but unfortunately the DLP chips don't have overscan in the conventional sense, which means you're stuck using digital zoom.

I wonder how rear projection DLP sets deal with this. My guess is they also use digital zoom.

Anyone know for sure?

I hear what you're saying with zoom, but unfortunately the DLP chips don't have overscan in the conventional sense, which means you're stuck using digital zoom.


The HD72 does actually have overscan (crop), zoom (crop and scale), and shift (push image off screen). Any one of these can be used to clean up the edges...

With zoom 1 & 2 I found you don't lose that much - just enough to clean up the edges. Zoom 3 and 4 are larger in magnitude.

Mike

Thanks for the tips. I was able to use the overscan button on the remote to get rid of the lines around the screen. Set it on 3.

Thanks again for the hellp

I am falling more in love with this projector each time I watch it. My first HD experience was an ESPN College Gameday broadcast. I was pretty dissapointed as there seemed to be a lot of noise in the image and detail was lacking. Last night I watched the NFL kickoff on NBC and the picture was a million times better. Awesome blacks and details. The ESPN signal must have been very compressed. Anyone else notice this? Does anyone know whether I should have my Comcast/Motorola HD box set to 720p or 1080i? Component or HDMI?

I am falling more in love with this projector each time I watch it. My first HD experience was an ESPN College Gameday broadcast. I was pretty dissapointed as there seemed to be a lot of noise in the image and detail was lacking. Last night I watched the NFL kickoff on NBC and the picture was a million times better. Awesome blacks and details. The ESPN signal must have been very compressed. Anyone else notice this? Does anyone know whether I should have my Comcast/Motorola HD box set to 720p or 1080i? Component or HDMI?

Try both and see which one you like best. On my Comcast/Motorola HD box I'm using component out and the 1080i signal is clearly superior to the 720P. My guess is that the deinterlacer on the Optoma is superior to the one built into the HD box since most HD is broadcast at 1080i.

Thanks for the suggestions. I am really happy that I decided to upgrade from my H30. Can you believe that my out of pocket expense to upgrade to a full HD projector was only $900?! My H30 went for $475 on ebay, I got a free bulb from PP which I sold for $225 and I have a $300 rebate coming on top of that. Definitely a no-brainer. Now bring on the football!

has anyone mounted this projector on a coffee table? I am consider placing it on a coffee table about 7-8 feet away from the wall. The top of the table is 14" in height, but I worry that the offset of this proj might project the image too high...any insight?

The biggest screen you can throw with that is a 73" diagonal. That's 36" high. With the most pessimistic offset percent that's 13" above the lens height. That puts the bottom of the screen at 27".

Use this:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Optoma-HD72-projection-calculator.htm

to calculate screen size, and the projector is 32-38% offset. (Although you can fudge that quite a bit).

Thanks for the fast reply! The other option is to mount it to my 9 ft ceiling...however there would be a ceiling fan 1-2 feet infront of it and I fear this may interfere. I sit about 10 feet back from the wall that will be projected upon. What do you projector-math gurus suggest?

The biggest screen you can throw with that is a 73" diagonal. That's 36" high. With the most pessimistic offset percent that's 13" above the lens height. That puts the bottom of the screen at 27".

Use this:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Optoma-HD72-projection-calculator.htm

to calculate screen size, and the projector is 32-38% offset. (Although you can fudge that quite a bit).

What kind of screen are you working with?

To get around the fan problem you could also use a "stick mount" (not sure what they're called, but basically a pipe that drops the projector to whatever level you want).

How far off the floor do you need to be?

Ideal eye level is between 1/4 to 1/3rd up the screen. Assuming a regular sofa that's about 42" high. With your 36" screen that's actually 30" off the ground, so the table mount would probably work just fine. With the ceiling mount I think you'd need to drop the projector quite a ways to get it to where you want the image.

Hello All
I am a newcomer to these posts and I just got a 6800 from Costco with the Graywolf II screen and mount. Haven't tried it yet as I am building a dedicated home theatre.
I have read all 89 pages of this post (several hours of reading and I have 2 questions hoping someone can answer.
1...what do you use for lens cleaning? (windex, Bon Ami...are they ok to use?)
2...what is the difference between the Graywolf and the Graywolf II screen?
Thanks.
Ken

Not sure on 2, but 1 you should use nothing but a lens cleaning cloth, *IF* you need to clean it. I live in a fairly dusty house (live on a dirt road *sigh*) and I haven't cleaned my projector lens since I got it 3 months ago.

My wife has some spray specifically for cleaning lenses that I would use if I had to clean it. I would avoid Windex. The ammonia works great on glass, but I don't know if those lenses have any kind of coating on them that could be damaged by it.

For dust removal, a dry cloth is the best (use a lens cleaning cloth, kleenex, etc have wood fibers in them that could scratch the lens).

curious if anybody has a solution to the auto search feature. Mine will auto search for sources between each title change on the DVD and then it gets confused and thinks my up converting DVD player is outputting at 480p instead of the up converted 720p once one menu changes.

My only solution is to run through the menus, start the movies, power down the DVD player, power up the DVD player and hope it picks up where it left off.

Is there anyway to disable the auto input search permanently?

curious if anybody has a solution to the auto search feature. Mine will auto search for sources between each title change on the DVD and then it gets confused and thinks my up converting DVD player is outputting at 480p instead of the up converted 720p once one menu changes.

My only solution is to run through the menus, start the movies, power down the DVD player, power up the DVD player and hope it picks up where it left off.

Is there anyway to disable the auto input search permanently?

Turn 'source lock' to on in the options menu. It's not permanent, if you switch inputs it will revert.

curious if anybody has a solution to the auto search feature. Mine will auto search for sources between each title change on the DVD and then it gets confused and thinks my up converting DVD player is outputting at 480p instead of the up converted 720p once one menu changes.

My only solution is to run through the menus, start the movies, power down the DVD player, power up the DVD player and hope it picks up where it left off.

Is there anyway to disable the auto input search permanently?

Check the source lock in the options menu, it's not permenant though.

Yeah, I tried that, works great until you turn the unit off. I think it might be my upscaling player that is "messing up" (or forcing the projector to look for a signal between title changes). Tried it with a 5 year old Panny player and the source wasn't lost during title changes and thus didn't force the projector to search....Go figure.... :confused:

If you are only using one video connection, you can try the following:

Go to "Image" menu.
Select the "Advanced" sub-menu,
Select the "Input Sources" sub-menu
Uncheck all the sources that have no connection

Hope this can work for you.

Yeah, I tried that, works great until you turn the unit off. I think it might be my upscaling player that is "messing up" (or forcing the projector to look for a signal between title changes). Tried it with a 5 year old Panny player and the source wasn't lost during title changes and thus didn't force the projector to search....Go figure.... :confused:

So I guess a lens cleaning solution (with a lens cloth) from a camera store with be ok on the optics surface. Thanks for the reply.
Also, do most of you leave the projector in standby mode or do you switch it off after use?
Hopefully someone can post the differences from the Graywolf and the Graywolf II screen.
Ken

Looks like this PJ is about to get a new rebate increase. The old rebate was $300.00


HD72
Amount: $400
Date: Purchased from 9/15/06 - 10/31/06
Terms: Rebate Coupon valid for new HD72 Optoma projectors purchased. Offer not valid with any other rebate, offer or promotion. Keep a copy of your submission for future reference.

Looks like this PJ is about to get a new rebate increase. The old rebate was $300.00


HD72
Amount: $400
Date: Purchased from 9/15/06 - 10/31/06
Terms: Rebate Coupon valid for new HD72 Optoma projectors purchased. Offer not valid with any other rebate, offer or promotion. Keep a copy of your submission for future reference.
thats correct...there are some online stores offering a $400 rebate until 10/31/06.

Looks like this PJ is about to get a new rebate increase. The old rebate was $300.00


HD72
Amount: $400
Date: Purchased from 9/15/06 - 10/31/06
Terms: Rebate Coupon valid for new HD72 Optoma projectors purchased. Offer not valid with any other rebate, offer or promotion. Keep a copy of your submission for future reference.

I just purchased the HD72 two days ago...Anybody know about doing a return and rebuy from Projector People? Or is there a way to fudge this?

I just purchased the HD72 two days ago...Anybody know about doing a return and rebuy from Projector People? Or is there a way to fudge this?

not that i know of. i purchased the hd72 from another vendor 1 day (literally, 10 hours or so) before they started the first ($300) rebate. ouch!

ah well. i have enjoyed the pj, right? :D

I just purchased the HD72 two days ago...Anybody know about doing a return and rebuy from Projector People? Or is there a way to fudge this?

Projector people will allow you to return it for a 100% refund. I don't know about return/rebuy without shipping it back. Give them a call.

Or is there a way to fudge this?

There are always ways to "fudge" it, but I'm afraid I might get banned for mentioning any.

PS. PS

Sorry for a stupid question, but I've hooked up my 72 to the computer via HDMI, the monitor screen is showing the dvd picture, but the pj is only throwing the power dvd console on screen, but no picture. How do you guys do it?? :confused:

Make the pj a "primary display" in video card settings.

Am I wrong to assume that an unconverting DVd player is not necessary as the Optoma does this already?
Any thoughts on this?
Also...posted earlier...what is the difference between the Graywolf I and Graywolf II screens?
Any info is much appreciated.
Ken

Depends how you're shipping the DVD signal to the projector. If it's in the digital domain, you're correct. If it's analog (component,svid,composite) then you're better off doing it in the DVD player since it's better to do the conversion before any D-A-D cycle which degrades the original signal.

How is the H72 with HD-DVD and xbox 360? I been going through tons of projectors and this seems pretty nice. I am going to have 92" sitting 10-15 Feet Back. Just trying to find the picture picture for the money. How is the video noise on this unit? pretty clean? Most of everything will be HD and some PS2. The projecotors I have been looking at are

Sanyo Z4
Mitsubishi HC3000U
Panasonic PT-AE900U
Sony VPL-HS60
Optoma HD7100

The only thing I am worried about with DLPs is Rainbow effect. How is everyone liking there projector, is say the Mitsubishi HC3000U with brilliant color, does that produce a better image?

How is the H72 with HD-DVD and xbox 360?

HD-DVD and Xbox 360 are stunning with this PJ - as they are with all the latest crop of PJs.

Which one is better than the other is highly debateable.

Also check out the Optoma HD70 - similar in spec for $999 MSRP

I am now having problems with the remote.

I have two remotes (the original and a universal). They had both worked until a couple of days ago. Now, the projector will not react to the remote signals, except for maybe once in 20 or so tries. It seems like I had heard about this problem on this projector before.

I was wondering if a reset will help?

Firmware upgrade (I assume it is not user upgradeable yet)?

Repair?

Thanks in advance.

I did a search for a whine I am hearing on my 6800. Other than just a few posts, I don't see much on this topic. I have startup whine, but it goes away, then slowly comes back. Is RMA the only answer?

Funny how the H70 brought this thread to a screeching halt. I just received my hdmi cables from monoprice today. How big of a difference should I expect to see vs. component?

Funny how the H70 brought this thread to a screeching halt. I just received my hdmi cables from monoprice today. How big of a difference should I expect to see vs. component?

I agree. I was getting ready to buy the hd72 when along comes the 70. I'm still leaning to the 72, but it seems the street talk says get the 70 and hold over till 1080 gets less then 2k.

Where's all the updated info from HD72 owners? What's going on? Even the Guitarman (Optoma rep) recommended the 70 over the 72 (for my living room use).

Strange...

-RiverWolf from the Machine Shop-

I agree. I was getting ready to buy the hd72 when along comes the 70. I'm still leaning to the 72, but it seems the street talk says get the 70 and hold over till 1080 gets less then 2k.

Where's all the updated info from HD72 owners? What's going on? Even the Guitarman (Optoma rep) recommended the 70 over the 72 (for my living room use).

Strange...

-RiverWolf from the Machine Shop-

OK... so I tried the DVI cable with my HD Comcast box. Very noticeable difference in sharpness and detail. But now I don't have tint controls. Doesn't the INHD channel broadcast a test pattern at some point? I have no way of calibrating without.

By the way, maybe I'm justifying my purchase, but having the dual digital inputs (vs. 1 for the H70), lower noise, and debateably better color fidelity is worth it to me. Of course after selling my free bulb on ebay and getting the $300 rebate, I only paid $1350.

OK... so I tried the DVI cable with my HD Comcast box. Very noticeable difference in sharpness and detail. But now I don't have tint controls. Doesn't the INHD channel broadcast a test pattern at some point? I have no way of calibrating without.

Oh - good idea! I haven't been using my DVI port because I had heard the DVI output was not functional on the HD Comcast box. I'll have to give it a go! :D

With the current 400 dollar rebate I've seen the HD72 advertised as low as 1300 dollars. Still about 45% more then the HD70. I'll pick one or the other before months end, when the rebate expires. Might not find a better deal until after CES in January.

-RiverWolf from the Machine Shop-

Hi!

Help me with this: is the H72 compatible with 1080p/24 or 1080p/60? Thank you!

Dreyfus Fabrini

according to the manual, it can only accept a 1080i signal? Are you trying to hook up a HD DVD / Blu-Ray player to this projector? Would it be best to output from your source at 720p (the projectors native resolution) so there would be no downscale involved?

It can accept 1080p/60 (and scale to 720p/60), not sure about 1080p/24 though.

Is there a solution for the strobing/flashing problem when switching inputs? I searched the thread and found nothing. Turning the projector off and then on again fixes the problem, but I'm looknig for a better solution.

I get strobing when switching to the DVI input - with either my laptop or OPPO connected on the other end.

Is there a solution for the strobing/flashing problem when switching inputs? I searched the thread and found nothing. Turning the projector off and then on again fixes the problem, but I'm looknig for a better solution.

I get strobing when switching to the DVI input - with either my laptop or OPPO connected on the other end.
Same problem here. My only solution is to switch to DVI-D input, turn off the PJ, and then turn it on again.

I don't think there is an easier solution. I reported this bug when I sent in my PJ for service (firmware update/reset bug). They said they replaced the motherboard, but I still get the strobing.

I don't think there is an easier solution. I reported this bug when I sent in my PJ for service (firmware update/reset bug). They said they replaced the motherboard, but I still get the strobing.

Is turning the projector off, then immediately turning it back on, a 'bad' thing to do? Does it affect bulb longevity?

Is turning the projector off, then immediately turning it back on, a 'bad' thing to do? Does it affect bulb longevity?
I have no idea. I'm guessing ... "yes."

Perhaps those people with a HDMI switcher (AV Receiver or stand-alone) can comment. Is there any strobe effect with the Oppo hooked up to the switcher via a DVI-HDMI converter cable???

Personally, we don't usually have time to watch a DVD and TV in the same evening anyways. So, if I'm watching TV and I'm going to turn off the PJ for the night, I'll power on the Oppo and switch the PJ input to DVI-D before turning everything off. That way, if we're watching a DVD the next evening, I'll have saved an extra on-off cycle on the PJ.

anyone have any experience with the HD72 and a HD DVD player ? An early post said the 1080i is not that spectacular through the 72 for some odd reason. If my DVD player outputs 1080i, would the projector have to de-interlace the signal?

why would you output 1080i to a 720p projector? I would think (in theory) that the fewer conversions the better. I find that on my HDTV Receiver (LG LST-3510A), outputting to my projector at 720p produces a slightly better picture than the receivers default 1080i.

so the HD72 does not display 1080i ?

and why would a 720p output be better than 1080i ? I am asking because since my HD DVD player can output a 1080i signal. So if the projector accepts it, wouldn't the conversion be the same as the player outputting 720p and the projector accepting 720p ?

Yes the HD72 support the 1080i .. but the PQ will be better with 720p

Thank you VR6.

Yes the HD72 support the 1080i .. but the PQ will be better with 720p

That assumes the output is equal. I"m not too familiar with the HD-DVD players on the market but I have heard the 720P output is not as good as the 1080i making the 1080i PQ superior even though it is not the native resolution.

As a personal example - my HD Cable box doesn't do as good a job converting a 1080i signal to a 720P signal as the Optoma so I feed it a 1080i signal.

Try both - see which one you like better.

Do we still NOT have user upgradeable firmware on the HD72? If so, does anyone know if they plan on adding that feature?

My HD DVD player, HD cable, and Xbox 360 all look better using 1080i over 720p.
The HD72 goes a really good job conerting a 1080i signal. I'll be interested to see what it does with a 1080p signal next month when the PS3 hits.

Got my HD72 calibrated today by Michael TLV what a nice guy !

Really a difference with the PQ. ho .. and when he plug the HD-DVD with Batman Begin .. Now I need one.



1 de 3 (http://www.steben.ca/cal1.jpg)

2 de 3 (http://www.steben.ca/cal2.jpg)

3 de 3 (http://www.steben.ca/cal3.jpg)

Got my HD72 calibrated today by Michael TLV what a nice guy !

Really a difference with the PQ. ho .. and when he plug the HD-DVD with Batman Begin .. Now I need one.



1 de 3 (http://www.steben.ca/cal1.jpg)

2 de 3 (http://www.steben.ca/cal2.jpg)

3 de 3 (http://www.steben.ca/cal3.jpg)

So - give us the settings! :D

I don't care about the setting .. but like you probably know.. it's will not be the same for you.

-screen, player, bulb etc.. are different.

I don't care about the setting .. but like you probably know.. it's will not be the same for you.

-screen, player, bulb etc.. are different.

Uh - ya - I know - but - I still like to try out different settings.

If it is too much trouble to post them - then just say so.

I tried searching this thread and have been unsuccessful finding any posts regarding a bulb flash/flicker that occurrs intermittently. I have about 10-12 hours on my HD72 and in the last 2 days, the bulb after about an hour or so of being on, will flash the image brighter...then immediately go back to cinema mode. Happens in a second, then it's gone for a while. It's really bizarre, and I was wondering if anyone had a clue as to what that could be?

I tried searching this thread and have been unsuccessful finding any posts regarding a bulb flash/flicker that occurrs intermittently. I have about 10-12 hours on my HD72 and in the last 2 days, the bulb after about an hour or so of being on, will flash the image brighter...then immediately go back to cinema mode. Happens in a second, then it's gone for a while. It's really bizarre, and I was wondering if anyone had a clue as to what that could be?

I assume you're not referring to the effect caused by the "Image AI"? The image will go from bright to dim with it on in an effort to increase black levels during dark scenes. Very distracting and I don't believe that any of the HD72 users on this forum are enabling this feature.

I tried searching this thread and have been unsuccessful finding any posts regarding a bulb flash/flicker that occurrs intermittently. I have about 10-12 hours on my HD72 and in the last 2 days, the bulb after about an hour or so of being on, will flash the image brighter...then immediately go back to cinema mode. Happens in a second, then it's gone for a while. It's really bizarre, and I was wondering if anyone had a clue as to what that could be?

I always thought that I noticed this on the first HD72 that I had. It reacted as if the Image AI was on, even though it was turned off. It was not terribly bothersome, however it was noticable.

I have that flicker quite often as well, like the AI is on even though it's not. I happened often when my bulb was at around 150 hours, but now that I'm getting near 300 it occurs less frequently. From what I've read it seems to happen to many projectors, not just the 72. Apparently something about how the bulb filaments burn causes it.

hey guys, well i think my first bulb just went (at 1080 hours..), however ithis one is really weird becuase the bulb still works for the first 5-6 minutes when the PJ is turned on, but after that time it just shuts off. None of the indicatiors for bulb/temperature are lighing up on the PJ, just no light is coming through the bulb. I find this odd, becuase there wasn't a pop of any kind just light stops coming through the bulb. Luckily i had the 2nd free bulb to put in there and it doesns't appear to have this issue, and i was also suprised to see how clean the first bulb still was (it looked brand new--no visible burn marks or noticilbe appearance of wear).

I just wanted to check with you guys to see if anyone has had a similar issue with a bulb working for the first 5-7 minutes and just shutting itself off after it starts to warm up?

I tried searching this thread and have been unsuccessful finding any posts regarding a bulb flash/flicker that occurrs intermittently. I have about 10-12 hours on my HD72 and in the last 2 days, the bulb after about an hour or so of being on, will flash the image brighter...then immediately go back to cinema mode. Happens in a second, then it's gone for a while. It's really bizarre, and I was wondering if anyone had a clue as to what that could be?
I haven't seen this on my HD72, but I did have the problem briefly when I installed a new lamp on my old X1. From all the research that I did, the best explaination I could come up with was that the arc was trying to "settle" into the path of least resistance on the electrodes. While the arc jumped from spot to spot, the brightness varied. I ran my X1 for about 8 hours straight to let it find its spot and it was fine from there.

I tried searching this thread and have been unsuccessful finding any posts regarding a bulb flash/flicker that occurrs intermittently. I have about 10-12 hours on my HD72 and in the last 2 days, the bulb after about an hour or so of being on, will flash the image brighter...then immediately go back to cinema mode. Happens in a second, then it's gone for a while. It's really bizarre, and I was wondering if anyone had a clue as to what that could be?


I have this issue as well. I returned my first unit and Optoma sent me a brand new unit. The original unit had about 40 hours on it and the flashing was intermittant throughout that time, the new unit has the same problem and when I reported it to Optoma they said it must be something in my electrical system. I told them that I still had my X1 and it is connected to my source the same way and it doesn't flash, in fact through the 4500 hours of use and two bulbs it has been completely stable.

I checked various settings and found the lamp brightness feature; switching that on and off displayed the exact same difference in intensity as the flashing. I suspect that it may be something in that circuitry that may be causing the problem but can't prove it.

Optoma has issued me another RMA but I would like this resolved without loosing the use of the projector, even for the few days that it takes to send it in and get it back.

I'd be interested to know what, if any, solution you have achieved and if anyone else has this problem. It seams strange that I've had two units that exhibit the problem and no one else (except you TIMMEH) has!

So should I just run it for a long while and cross my fingers? We just got done watching LOTR, Fellowship, and at the end it started flashing again when I turned on HDTV and pulled up a menu from the cable box. Going from menu screen to menu screen on the cable guide caused it to flash even more...

My audio gear and my projector (ceiling mounted) are on a dedicated circuit in a brand new house. I have doubts it's a power problem.

Any other ideas? And where's the AI settings so I can verify they are off?

nevermind, I found the AI settings...I just turned them off so maybe that will work...

I'll keep you posted.

nevermind, I found the AI settings...I just turned them off so maybe that will work...

I'll keep you posted.
Oh, yes, there is that.

welp, looks like turning off AI did it. Watched the other 2 LOTR movies without a single flicker. :)

welp, looks like turning off AI did it. Watched the other 2 LOTR movies without a single flicker. :)


That's why we're here! Glad everything worked out.

Out of curiousity, has anyone here contemplated doing the colorwheel mod on the HD72 that many are doing on the H70?

Please excuse my ignorance but is the Costco HD6800 the same thing as the H72?
And if it is is the Costco version missing any details or stripped down?
I was formerly going to buy a Mits 65831 until I found out about projectors, and can anybody say on the forum the best place to buy one? I was leaning towards Ebay. But the Costco in Anchorage, Alaska (50 miles away) may have one.
I am not sure if its allowed to say where to buy but can someone say where to NOT buy? Thanks.

Has anyone received an HD72 the last week or so? I feel I'm getting the run-around from the people I ordered mine from (Projector.com). When I ordered it two weeks ago, their website said "in stock". But when I called last Monday they said they sold out and that I would get mine drop-shipped direct from Optoma...when Optoma got some more in stock.

Please excuse my ignorance but is the Costco HD6800 the same thing as the H72?
And if it is is the Costco version missing any details or stripped down?
I was formerly going to buy a Mits 65831 until I found out about projectors, and can anybody say on the forum the best place to buy one? I was leaning towards Ebay. But the Costco in Anchorage, Alaska (50 miles away) may have one.
I am not sure if its allowed to say where to buy but can someone say where to NOT buy? Thanks.

There are slight differences in figures. But for the most part, they are the same.

I've now been told that Optoma won't get any new stock of the HD72 until mid-November. I wonder....will they give me an HD73 instead since that's the replacement model?

You wish :D

I'm having a problem with my HD-A1 2.0 when using HDMI. It connects and displays on the HD72 but as soon as I play a disc I can hear the color wheel speed up and the lamp failure indicator lights and the pj shuts off. Yet it works fine when using DVI and fine with my SA8300 except once when I had to reboot the cable box and then the lamp failure went off for that as well. What can be causing this to happen and has anyone else had this problem?

I've got my HD72 enroute. We're upgrading from an X1 (3400+ hours) to the HD72. It was cheaper than an HD70 after the $400 rebate and some other discounts. Make sure to keep an eye out, I think you may see these dip under HD70 prices as they clear 'em out.

I need a wallmount for mine but there's not a lot of wallmount info. Found some at mountdirect and a few other places.

I've got the mandarax wallmount for my X1 and it has an extension on it as the X1's image was a bit too big (I was seeing SDE). Based on my measurements of the screen (80"x60" 4:3) the X1 is exactly 15' away from the screen right now.

Waiting on the pj to show up so I can get a better idea of where the offset will fall on the wall, etc before spending money on a mount. I may need one of the wall mount extensions to push it a bit closer to the screen. We'll be sitting right under the projector.

Has anyone compared the Optoma HD72 to the new Mits. HD1000?

Has anyone compared the Optoma HD72 to the new Mits. HD1000? Specifically black levels and contrast?

What is the best way to clean my HD72. I have 350hours on it.

Mine has about 350 hrs also. Does it need cleaning, like the lense or the wheel?

What has been the average wait time around here for the rebates? I am starting to get a bit nervous. I sent mine in over a month and a half ago. Any way to check the status?

Think I sent in my in September and still haven't gotten mine yet. I'm not too worried though, it'll get here when it get's here.

I sent mine in in Sept and still haven't got it. Supposedly no 4 on the list(?). I guess it will be here when it gets here. PJ is awesome still.

Think I sent in my in September and still haven't gotten mine yet. I'm not too worried though, it'll get here when it get's here.

I'm less concerned with when it gets here than if it ever gets here at all. This is my biggest fear with rebates. I had a $100 rebate from a computer monitor I bought 18 months ago that has never shown up. $300 is a good chunk of change.

I had a similar experience waiting for my IN72 rebate. I actually work at a promotions company that handles rebates among other things. I happened to mention that I had been waiting over the 12 weeks specified in the fine print to one of our sales reps. She told me there's a sure-fire way to get your money right away if the company's outside the time limit set in the rebate rules.

Get the phone# to call regarding the rebate (there should be one) and tell them that you're upset that you haven't gotten your rebate, it's beyond the 12 weeks the rules state and that your state's attourney general's office recommended you call.

Apparently if you involve the attorney general's office they will happily ablige you. This happens often enough here, the clients just don't send our company the money to cover the rebate checks to send out so the records just sit in out databases until the money comes. Eventually people start calling, most get nowhere but if it's outside the rules and they mention the attourney general's office we HAVE to send the check out or the client gets in big legal trouble.

I sent mine in at the beginning of September (they received 9/11) and I received the check on October 27.

I think mine said 8 weeks, so don't give up yet. Email them to check on the status, they were responsive to me.

Well, this is interesting.

I got my HD72 in from overstock and on the front of the pj it says "DCDi by Faroudja". Weird. Thought only the UK models had Faroudja. Good deal, I'm familiar with how the Faroudja performance is for gaming and SD stuff.

Powered up fine. Image is a little big for my space (wider than my X1's image), so I ordered an 18" extension with my wallmount from mountdirect, should be here in a few days. Will be able to play with it then. :D

I'm playing Lego Star Wars II on a Xbox thru my H72. During different modes the screen down the left side and top side appears but a stripe that is not is bright as the main screen has anyone else seen this or know what it is?

Thanks,
JDVA

I'm playing Lego Star Wars II on a Xbox thru my H72. During different modes the screen down the left side and top side appears but a stripe that is not is bright as the main screen has anyone else seen this or know what it is?

Thanks,
JDVA

What do you have your overscan set at? If I don't use 1 or 2 I get all sorts of funkiness.

Well, this is interesting.

I got my HD72 in from overstock and on the front of the pj it says "DCDi by Faroudja". Weird. Thought only the UK models had Faroudja. Good deal, I'm familiar with how the Faroudja performance is for gaming and SD stuff.

Powered up fine. Image is a little big for my space (wider than my X1's image), so I ordered an 18" extension with my wallmount from mountdirect, should be here in a few days. Will be able to play with it then. :D

Same source, same lable... I didn't think twice about it other than I was happy to have it (faroudja did a great job with the picture on my 4805). I am not complaining...

hey ,

I am getting one of these projestors and was wondering if anyone has one on a 120" screen. I am deciding between 120" and 106", viewing distance 14 FT. Will it be too pixelated at 120"...
Thanks

Thanks for all the info on the thread... I pulled the trigger and bought one today. Of course it was out of stock but for the price of a HD70 I will wait paitently. Its really for the winter house which I don't occupy till jan... so as long as it shows up by christmas then I'm cool... Now to get busy with the rest of the theater construction....

Sean

hey ,

I am getting one of these projestors and was wondering if anyone has one on a 120" screen. I am deciding between 120" and 106", viewing distance 14 FT. Will it be too pixelated at 120"...
Thanks

Picture should look fine, but you might find that a 120" is too big for a 14ft viewing distance. I found that in my room (~14ft), 100" was plenty big. Anything much bigger than 106" and I was constantly having to move my eyes to keep up with the action on the screen. Also check the throw distance, not sure if you can get 120" diagonal from 14'. My projector sits about 13.5 feet from the screen (about 18" from the back wall)

hey ,

I am getting one of these projestors and was wondering if anyone has one on a 120" screen. I am deciding between 120" and 106", viewing distance 14 FT. Will it be too pixelated at 120"...
Thanks

I found that it depends on what you're projecting. I switch between 120" and 92" simply by switching between 16:9 (120") and 4:3 (92"). For regular TV, lower rez 16:9 and all 4:3 material I use the 92" setting but for HDTV and some wide screen (usually wider than 16:9) material I switch to 120" (16:9) and the pop is amazing. Try the chariot race from Ben-Hur at 120"!!!!!

Doing it this way there is no change in the pixel size, simply what is being displayed. The projected criteria is always based on a 120" width.

hey ,

I am getting one of these projestors and was wondering if anyone has one on a 120" screen. I am deciding between 120" and 106", viewing distance 14 FT. Will it be too pixelated at 120"...
Thanks

I have 110" sitting 14ft from screen. SDE is non-existent from about 3 ft and back. Much different from the 4805 I had. For me, 110" at 14ft is almost too big. Your eyes will move alot to catch the whole scene, especially watching sports. I watch a lot of tennis and you physically have to move your eyes from top to bottom to watch a rally. That being said, size is awesome for visual impact from movies.

The Infocus 4805 I had a switch to turn the bulb off without turning off the proj. I can't find a similar setting on the HD72. Anyone know if this pj has this?

I think that this machine does it automatically. When you power off the machine the fan will run for a few seconds/minutes after the bulb has turned off before powering down. No way (that I could find) to manually turn off the bulb and leave the machine running indefinitely.

It was a really cool feature that saved a lot of bulb life, without having to keep starting and stopping machine. Fortunately I got the free bulb, so it will help offset the extended use now. Once I turn mine on for the day, it usually stays on for the rest of the day.

It was a really cool feature that saved a lot of bulb life, without having to keep starting and stopping machine. Fortunately I got the free bulb, so it will help offset the extended use now. Once I turn mine on for the day, it usually stays on for the rest of the day.

I think you are speaking of standby and I think it did actually turn off and on the bulb... although I can't think what it was good for if that's the case...

Whenever you hit the button, the bulb would go off, but the cooling fan did not cut on and the time did not accrue in the bulb hours counter.

Whenever you hit the button, the bulb would go off, but the cooling fan did not cut on and the time did not accrue in the bulb hours counter.

I am not really sure how that saves bulb life over turning the projector off...

Bulb still turns off, so it still strikes again and still eats it's appropriate 2 hours of life when you come back.

Only thing I can see this benefeits is that it cools the bulb down faster so it's ready to strike again sooner, but if you are going to be striking it again soon anyway why not leave it on and save the strike damage?

It does keep the timer from counting up, which I guess would be good for resale, but it doesn't really save you any bulb life over the other options (either turning it off or leaving it on depending on how long until you planned to come back).

In other words it sounds like it kept the bulb counter down, but not necessarily saved bulb life...

Add me to the list of HD72 owners, mine just came today! Mine also has the DCDi by Faroudja... does that mean I can sell my Oppo 971 and put that money toward an Xbox 360 or HDDVD player? Or is it not the same thing as the Oppo's upconvert??

Add me to the list of HD72 owners, mine just came today! Mine also has the DCDi by Faroudja... does that mean I can sell my Oppo 971 and put that money toward an Xbox 360 or HDDVD player? Or is it not the same thing as the Oppo's upconvert??

You'd need a player with very good 480i output over component with a good mpeg2 decoder. I don't know how good the Xbox 360 is in that regard.

Honestly, the deinterlacing tests I saw on the first Toshiba HD-DVD player showed it had almost Faroudja-quality deinterlacing... It got an 84 on the secrets tests. Sure it's no 98 like the Oppo but that's not too shabby. Same score as my old Panasonic CP72.


(long loading, complete page of Secrets tests)
http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-bin/shootout.cgi?function=search&articles=all&type=&manufacturer=0&maxprice=0&deInt=0&mpeg=0

Notice there are differences between Faroudja equipped players. It's more than just the chip, it's also how it is set up, MPEG encoders, other hardware as well, etc.

I've always used a Faroudja-equipped player with my Faroudja-equipped X1 projector - first A Panny CP72 and then my current Zenith DVB-318 as I wasn't satisfied with a cheap player. And man did the PS2 look awful :(

lennon can you give me some details about the diff. chips what did others come with instead of the DCDi by Fraudja? Also i got mine from overstock as well (as you know). my box was 8 out 15 (i guess that's how many overstock ordered from optoma) and i still have a small whining sound coming from where the exhaust for the fan is on the side of the projector. do you hear anything at all on yours?
thanks
sluri

I'm not sure what the other chip would be, I was just going off the post by GreenMonkey back a page. I just know the Faroudja chipset is supposed to be one of the better upscalers, it's also the same chipset used in the Oppo 971, which is part of what makes it a great upscaling DVD player (as stated above it does depend a lot on how the chip is implemented), it's also one of the only knocks on the Oppo - it's notorious for having macroblocking issues. I don't think this is any concern with the HD72 though, from what I understand it depends on the display and I can't imagine they'd build it into a display that would suffer from macroblocking.

I haven't experienced any whining (yet), still whisper quiet. I hadn't noticed the x of 15 on my box, had to check after your post though... turns out I got number 1 of 15. My wife was just asking me to do something with "that box that's been in my way all week" I told her I can't do much with it yet, it's still worth $400!

i sent out my rebate last week, signature confirmation and all... i am not taking any chances with a 400 mail in rabate. i told you, i did get an rma from optoma, i guess i need to send it in, but i wanted to make sure they send me a new one and not a refurb or something. so i will talk to them again tomorrow and after i get a guarantee it will be a new unit, i will send mine to them. i guess i have to pay for the shipping from me to them, but it is worth it. i am sure i can't hear it when it is mounted, but it really annoyed me initially when i was testing it out.
the numbers on the box shows that only about 15 people got our deal... i wonder if overstock actually made money on these sales (minus their shipping cost etc.)
sluri

update, i just mounted and i can still hear it, my wife hears it as well, but i did have to point it out to her.
sluri

lennon can you give me some details about the diff. chips what did others come with instead of the DCDi by Fraudja? Also i got mine from overstock as well (as you know). my box was 8 out 15 (i guess that's how many overstock ordered from optoma) and i still have a small whining sound coming from where the exhaust for the fan is on the side of the projector. do you hear anything at all on yours?
thanks
sluri

Earlier in this thread (yes I read/skimmed the entire thing :eek: ) they said the deinterlacer is a Texas Instruments chip. Over the years apparently the non-Faroudja/Non Pixelworks chips have improved, because when I first got my X1, they were the only deinterlacers that could pass the famous jagged flag-waving test. Apparently the TI chip they're using in the HD42 does indeed pass the flag-weaving test and some other tough deinterlacing tests. I doubt it's quite as good as the Faroudja, but the other solutions have certainly gotten better over the years.

It sounded like they just wanted the Faroudja in the Europe models for some specific PAL deinterlacing cadences or something and decided the TI solution was good enough for the US...

Thanks greenmonkey.
sluri

Is there anyway to turn off Source Searching?

I use HDMI, DVI and Component and it keeps searching for inputs when using the Toshiba HD-A1. As most of you know the Toshiba turns the HDMI on and off a couple of times when booting up and loading the input.

Unfortunately I'm using other inputs so I cant disable the others.

I think think I saw an option under the system settings for source lock or something like that, that may be the setting you need to change?

that setting will lock it to a single source. If you have 2 sources (say a tuner and a DVD Player), that function will not be of any use as you couldn't switch to another source. I also found that mine would forget the "lock" when it powered off. According to Optoma that is a defect, but not big enough for me to send it back.

The short answer to your Q is 10 mm for non direct mount and 25 mm for direct mount

Jim

Well, one flaw over my old X1 - the additional upscaling is doing awful things to composite video. My X1 handled composite video much better. NES and Sega Genesis look terrible - it's making them extra blocky. I think the upscaler is a little confused.

SNES over s-video looks better, but still worse than the X1. The pixels look over-emphasized. Perhaps the scaler is just too accurate :D

I have a simple question I'm hoping someone here can answer.

I'm considering getting an HD72, but am getting different numbers for my geometry calculations. Can someone with an HD72 verify for me?

According to projector central http://www.projectorcentral.com/Optoma-HD72-projection-calculator-pro.htm
I can get a 100 inch wide 16:9 image at 15.5 feet.

According to the user manual,
http://www.projectorcentral.com/pdf/projector_manual_3167.pdf
page 16, the given angles give totally different numbers.

I'm trying for a 100 inch wide image from between 14 and 16 feet.

Can someone give an example of the real-world projection distance and image width they are getting?

If you can, what vertical offset are you getting with that too?

Thanks!!!

I've noticed that the ImageAI performace is usually bad with 480i input (RGB), so I disabled it, but HMDI w/720P is fine, I never notice the ImageAI causing harsh changes.

I have a simple question I'm hoping someone here can answer.

I'm considering getting an HD72, but am getting different numbers for my geometry calculations. Can someone with an HD72 verify for me?

According to projector central http://www.projectorcentral.com/Optoma-HD72-projection-calculator-pro.htm
I can get a 100 inch wide 16:9 image at 15.5 feet.

According to the user manual,
http://www.projectorcentral.com/pdf/projector_manual_3167.pdf
page 16, the given angles give totally different numbers.

I'm trying for a 100 inch wide image from between 14 and 16 feet.

Can someone give an example of the real-world projection distance and image width they are getting?

If you can, what vertical offset are you getting with that too?

Thanks!!!

My X1 was at 15'. I was trying to get my mount to extend out farther than my X1 as the throw was going to make this projector's image bigger.

Since the PJ is smaller (not as long) I've got a bit longer of a throw than my X1. I'd say at 15' 4" I've got 115" diagonal (58-59" tall, need to tune the aim a bit still).

I'm planning on replacing my Optoma H27 with a HD72. How close are the offsets? Which one is greater?

I received my $300 rebate from Optoma today. I called the number on the rebate form to check on the status and someone got back to me within 24 hours saying the check had shipped. I was sweating that my form got lost but am a very happy guy now. Between the free bulb and the rebate, I can officially say that I got a GREAT deal on this projector!