I'm looking to run 480i over dvi and/or to the HD72. Can anyone confirm it works OK without any hiccups?

I found a review mentioning 480i over HDMI being OK, but can anyone confirm 480i over DVI?

I am kind of new to some of the calculations needed to correctly install an HD72 on a 92" diag screen. I have an 8' ceiling using a chief universal mount (flush with the ceiling). I used to have a Optoma H31 and it seemed to be right on as far as projecting the exact screen size with the screen being mounted in the exact center of my wall. When I upgraded to the HD72, I had to move my screen a few inches to the left in order for it to line up. I also notice I need to move it forward (closer to the screen) since it seems to be about 1" too big to fit the screen vertically.

How does one figure the precise calculations to know how to line up the projector after I get my screen mounted where I want it on the wall?

:confused:

I am kind of new to some of the calculations needed to correctly install an HD72 on a 92" diag screen. I have an 8' ceiling using a chief universal mount (flush with the ceiling). I used to have a Optoma H31 and it seemed to be right on as far as projecting the exact screen size with the screen being mounted in the exact center of my wall. When I upgraded to the HD72, I had to move my screen a few inches to the left in order for it to line up. I also notice I need to move it forward (closer to the screen) since it seems to be about 1" too big to fit the screen vertically.

How does one figure the precise calculations to know how to line up the projector after I get my screen mounted where I want it on the wall?

:confused:

I normally hang the projector. Then I measure each side of the image to make sure they are the same length and micro-adjust until they match up (a bubble or laser level helps). I worry about the screen after, I've been using a white wall since we moved houses a few years ago (100" 4:3 X1 image was hard to build a screen for). I'm planning on building a screen for the new HD72.

I have a fixed screen so I need to figure out how to calculate where the projector needs to be on the ceiling. I have the screen placed exactly where I want it on the wall. I know this is probably kind of reverse of how to do it, but it is how i need to do it to be sure the screen is in the exact center of the wall. I also don't want to use any of the electronic centering on the projector since you lose resolution if you apply any electronic centering. I have tried to just hold up the projector on the ceiling to get it close, but I would prefer to figure out how to calculate it.

thanks,

use a calculator to get a throw distance (you have some margin of error with the zoom) and then measure from one wall to the middle of the screen and from that same wall to the center of the projector lens. That will get you close and if you have a celing mount that allows adjustments, you should be able to get it on your screen pretty easily.

OK, I've had my HD72 since March and I love it! I did have to swap it in the first two weeks due to the infamous reset bug. After that, it has performed fantastically and I couldn't be more pleased with the picture quality. However, the past few times I've turned it on it seems to be forgetting other settings, specifically the vertical offset under the display menu. I use that control to fine tune the image position vertically on the screen, so typically it's set for a non-zero value. Lately I've turned it on only to discover a pronounced shift and when I check the vertical offset, it's back to zero. Anyone else encounter this? Did Optoma really fix the reset bug all the way through the various options? I guess one of these days I'll fine tune the image position via the projector mount so I don't have to use that control if it's going to keep going back to zero! ;)

I've noticed this on occasion but it's definitely not a reset where lamp hours got to zero and all RGB calibration settings are lost.

I think it's normal operation quirk - like turning on source lock for a specific input and as soon as you change inputs source lock goes back to off for all inputs...I'm not sure why the offsets go back to zero. I've been running it in 16:10 mode (really 15:9) lately so I lose the offset feature anyhow...

I've noticed it as well. Our projector gets a LOT of use since it is the only "TV" in the house. This happens maybe once every other month.

Fortunately it is an easy fix.

Very happy with this PJ

Guys, I was switching discs last night with my HD-A1 and the HD72 lost the HDMI connection - as it does! Then when the screen went blue and the 'no signal' message came up I noticed something in the top left corner of my screen. A fairly large patch was a slightly darker colour than the surrounding blue. I tried but I couldn't focus in on it. Have a got a dust blob? I thought the HD72 had sealed optics? If it is a blob I presume this thing is inside the sealed optics and therefore untouchable. Thankfully the patch is at the top left hand corner of the screen so it is unnoticeable when watching movies, especially ones that have black bars on. So if it is a dust blob I'm wondering what my options are. Optoma UK are much less helpful than their US counterparts - when I had the reset issue they refused to hot swap and when I said that they did in the States they denied it! PJ only 10 months old with 300 hours on the clock. Now I'm worried that I'll start breeding the damn blobs all over the picture :( ! HELP!

Jules

Thanks, Uatatoka and Mucho for your comments. Yeah, it's not as severe as the earlier reset bug, but it's still annoying. I can see having different option sets for each of the inputs (to fine tune for specific video sources) but I only use the HDMI connection so the source never changes. I guess I'll just have to stop watching movies for a night and re-throw the image so I don't need the offsets to begin with! :rolleyes:

I have an HD72 and really like it. The HDMI connection to the Comcast HD/DVR Cable box works well. I purchased a Yamaha RX-V2700 to run all my video sources through HDMI to the HD72, however having tried all advice from this and other sources, I am unable to get the conection to work. The Amp displays an HDMI HDCP error while the HD72 cycles between a signal search and a black screen. Does anyone have the HD72 working via HDMI with the Yamaha RX-V2700? I am trying to determine if the RX-V2700 I have is defective or if it is just inherently incompatible. Can anyone recommend an AV receive similar to the RV-V2700 that they have actually seen work with the HD72? I have seen a number of posts about HDCP error difficulties between the recent Yamaha receivers and Optoma projetors, but unfortunately no posts about AV receivers that seem to work well with the Optoma projectors via HDMI....

I posted this question in remote forum but didnt get an answer. I am having problems entering my new HD72 into my URC MX-800 remote. Has anyone had success with this and if they have could you please let me know how? my editor software is only up to june of 06. thanx

answer to the strobing question:
i had the same issue. it was due to my HDMI cable length. I had to purchase a repeater and placed it and a 1' HDMI cable up by my projector. This fixed the problem.

I have an HD72 and really like it. The HDMI connection to the Comcast HD/DVR Cable box works well. I purchased a Yamaha RX-V2700 to run all my video sources through HDMI to the HD72, however having tried all advice from this and other sources, I am unable to get the conection to work. The Amp displays an HDMI HDCP error while the HD72 cycles between a signal search and a black screen. Does anyone have the HD72 working via HDMI with the Yamaha RX-V2700? I am trying to determine if the RX-V2700 I have is defective or if it is just inherently incompatible. Can anyone recommend an AV receive similar to the RV-V2700 that they have actually seen work with the HD72? I have seen a number of posts about HDCP error difficulties between the recent Yamaha receivers and Optoma projetors, but unfortunately no posts about AV receivers that seem to work well with the Optoma projectors via HDMI....

I don't know what I did, but no amount of reconfiguring cables would make my RX-V2700 talk to the HD72 via HDMI. My last ditch effort was to connect it to a friends Sony HS51. Still it seemed like no luck. I connected it to the projector with no inputs, just the output to the HS51. It did the same clicking back and forth I had seen on the HD72. I figured the amplifier was broken since this was the second projector that was seemingly not working over HDMI; I also know Myer Emco sells these as a set, so they must work together. We then connected the Comcast HD box via component and viola.... The picture appeared. Now, I am sure I had this same exact configuration when trying to connect to the HD72, but it always yielded the HDCP error. We turned the amp off, I took it home and reconnected it to the HD72, and it has worked ever since. So, bottom line is that they can work together with a little luck/persistence...

I'm finally getting around to wall mounting my HD72, and wanted to verify the offset value.

Distance is 11 feet. Zoom set to 1.0. Screen size 80".

Using the sizing chart in the manual I came up with 15.08" as the offset. Top of screen is 57.5" off the floor. Final mount height should have the projector centerline at 72.58"

Can someone verify my calculation is correct?

Is there a reason projector calculators don't provide offset value? I used two and neither showed this offset measurement.

I got the same calc as you did. I noticed the same thing on the calculators. Mine is at 15.5 feet which puts mine at 21.25. Would suck if I didn't have cathedral ceilings to raise the height of the mount.

How well does the H72 work with the Da-Lite Video Projector Interface (12v trigger to raise/lower the screen)?

Works very well. I have mine hooked up that way. Only hitch is there is a glitch when you power the projector down the screen goes all the way up, then drops 6 inches before retracting all the way again.

I posted the Radio Shack part number 20-30 pages back in april/may sometime....

What gauge wire did you use for the trigger?

It was just some of that really cheap speaker wire they give you with $20 speakers. Probably 24 gauge. The relay they give you doesn't draw much (I seem to remember about 50mA) so the wire gauge is relatively unimportant.

Kind of a strange question, and sorry if I missed something in this thread, but I have a question on the AR control. When in "letterbox" mode (vertical stretch), does the projector map a 1080i input onto the entire panel, using all the available input resolution to create the 720 vertical lines? Or, does it downsample to the letterbox image first, using 544 lines, then stretch that vertically?
I ask as I want to use this mode with HD DVD and my anamorphic lens, and there's quite a difference in resolution between the two methods.

Was wondering if anyone has used the Navitar SSC08 short throw converter with their HD72. I have a very small den, and have trouble filling a 92" screen in the space I have. Anyone know what the thread size is on the projector lens and the converter?

Just bought an HD72 for xmas. So far I love the projector, only one problem... there seems to be two horizontal "bars" that travel from bottom to top of the image slowly an constantly, one exhibiting a color shift towards blue, the other towards more of a greenish or brown. Both are subtle, yet very annoying. This is my first projector, so I'm wondering if this is a defect in the projector?

Anyone else notice this problem with their projector?

Haven't seen this problem on my 4 month old projector.

LCD is more likely to exhibit a screen door effect (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screen_door_effect)

With DLP you are more likely to see the rainbow effect (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rainbow_effect)

Either way, call Optoma and tell them about your problem, they can determine better than we can if it is a defect.

Haven't seen this problem on my 4 month old projector.

LCD is more likely to exhibit a

With DLP you are more likely to see the
Either way, call Optoma and tell them about your problem, they can determine better than we can if it is a defect.

Thanks.. I've also sent off a note to Optoma tech support on the issue. I'm hoping I won't have to replace it.

The effect I'm seeing doesn't sound like either screen door or rainbow, which leads me to think it's a defect. Especially if noone else with this projector notices it with theirs. :)

Thanks.. I've also sent off a note to Optoma tech support on the issue. I'm hoping I won't have to replace it.

The effect I'm seeing doesn't sound like either screen door or rainbow, which leads me to think it's a defect. Especially if noone else with this projector notices it with theirs.

Does it happen on every input? If it does it might be a projector problem otherwise possibly cable or source device if it only happens on a certain input.

The rainbow effect is more obvious when you turn your head quickly. Most noticeable in scenes with lot of dark and light colors.

I recently purchased a Toshiba HD-A1 HDDVD player. When connected via HDMI, the picture definitely displays a red push. Does anyone have this combination and if so, would you mind posting some settings? Much appreciated.

Just bought an HD72 for xmas. So far I love the projector, only one problem... there seems to be two horizontal "bars" that travel from bottom to top of the image slowly an constantly, one exhibiting a color shift towards blue, the other towards more of a greenish or brown. Both are subtle, yet very annoying. This is my first projector, so I'm wondering if this is a defect in the projector?

Anyone else notice this problem with their projector?
I had the same thing with my HD72 recently. In my case it was a ground loop issue caused by the fact that my projector is on a different circuit than the rest of my audio/video gear. The two ways I could get rid of it was to disconnect the coax running to my Dish ViP622 satellite receiver, or to break the ground on the power running to the HD72. Since disconnecting the satellite coax also meant I would lose my satellite TV, I chose to break the ground on the projector. Use a 3 prong to 2 prong "cheater plug" power adaptor to plug in the HD72 and see if the problem goes away. If you don't have a 3 prong to 2 prong power adaptor, maybe use an old extension cord and break the ground off that one. That way you'll still have an intact power cable in case that doesn't solve the problem. I'm not entirely sure what the risks are of not having a ground on the projector, but for me it was either live with the risks of no ground, or live with scrolling green/purple lines in my picture all the time. Hope that helps.

I had the same thing with my HD72 recently. In my case it was a ground loop issue caused by the fact that my projector is on a different circuit than the rest of my audio/video gear.

Maybe it was on the same circuit? Mine is on a dedicated circuit (well almost, the only other thing on the circuit is the attic light) and I don't have that problem at all. Breaking the ground plug doesn't sound safe and it seems that would void the warranty (if you have any left)

Maybe it was on the same circuit? Mine is on a dedicated circuit (well almost, the only other thing on the circuit is the attic light) and I don't have that problem at all. Breaking the ground plug doesn't sound safe and it seems that would void the warranty (if you have any left)
Mine's on a dedicated power circuit too - we installed the circuit just for the HD72 straight from the breaker box in the garage. Like I mentioned in my post, disconnecting the coax running to my satellite receiver also solved the problem, which probably meant the satellite feed is actually the problem. I don't really understand power fully at this point in my life so I don't know why the satellite coax feed would cause a ground loop, but I do know I had read many times that having the display device on a different circuit than the source devices can cause ground loop problems which manifest in various ways such as scrolling green/purple lines. That's what led me to break off the ground on the power cable I'm using on my HD72, which solved the problem in my case. Like I said, I don't really know the risks of having no ground on my HD72, other than reading on various posts that "it's not safe." It would be nice to know exactly what could happen in a worst case scenario.

...I don't know why the satellite coax feed would cause a ground loop,I'd bet that this feed is grounded somewhere outside the building, for lightning protection.but I do know I had read many times that having the display device on a different circuit than the source devices can cause ground loop problems which manifest in various ways such as scrolling green/purple lines.Yup. I had the same problem (for the same reason) with my HD73.
Like I said, I don't really know the risks of having no ground on my HD72, other than reading on various posts that "it's not safe." It would be nice to know exactly what could happen in a worst case scenario.If there occurs a defect in the projector which allows any excess current leakage between the hot side of the incoming AC power and the unit's chassis, the third safety wire normally provides a path to ground for this current. If this connection is defeated, the excess current leakage will seek a different path to ground, either through the other connected cables (and subsequently your other expensive equipment), or through your body if you happen to come in contact with it. If this current is large enough, either you or your equipment (or both) could be seriously damaged.

Travis already mentioned possible warranty problems, and while we're being paranoid I'll add that there could be potential insurance problems as well. Bottom line, it's never a good idea to defeat safety ground on any appliance. I've temporarily solved my own ground loop problem with an extension cord from the PJ over to the circuit with all my other gear. I'm frankly not sure how I'm gonna solve this permanently (I live in an apartment), but personally I'd rather live with the extension cord than the potential safety hazard.

Jim the Noob

In easy and safe way to fix your ground problems is to use a fiber optic HDMI cable between your PJ and sources. This will break the ground loop...

In easy and safe way to fix your ground problems is to use a fiber optic HDMI cable between your PJ and sources. This will break the ground loop...True, but for me this solution would also involve a new video card, DVD player, HDMI switcher, plus the fiber system itself... many hundreds of bucks.

This is one of those times where we have three choices, and we get to pick any two of them. Easy & safe won't be cheap, cheap & safe won't be easy, cheap & easy won't be safe. On second thought, my extension cord is all three, but I gotta factor in the 'tacky' quotient somewhere in that equation... :confused:

Jim the Noob (it's one o' them big bright orange ones, too! At least I won't trip over it.. much)

I think my HD72 crapped itself. I'm moving the theater to another room and therefore had to unmount the projector from the ceiling. I had watched a movie that same night before unhooking it.

A few hours later I tried powering it up to test it in the new room. Within a minute of powering up successfully the screen goes blank and no light seems to be coming out of the projector. There was no Lamp Indicator light, just the normal power on light.

I switched it off and it did it's normal shutdown. Left it for an hour with the hard switch turned off. Turned it on, same problem. Powers up fine, no lamp light on. Normal green power light fully lit not flashing like in standby mode. Light comes out as it's powering up, Optoma boot up screen shows. Searches for a few seconds for inputs then light stops coming out.

Any ideas?

Figured I didn't need my HD72 after I picked up a Pearl so wound up selling it to a colleague of mine, WRONG!. Haven't had the time to ceiling mount the Pearl (or the space for that matter) and while it's not a behemoth, it's definitely not a portable; so being a bit down in funds decided to pick up a Mitsubishi HC1000U. WOW, would definitely recommend it over the HD70 and maybe over the HD72 (haven't seen the HD73 yet). It's lighter, brighter, and I think the optics are a bit better than the 72 though the contrast ratio is lower. However at almost half the street price and slightly cheaper than the HD70, it's the best bang for the buck out there. If you like to set up outside on a big screen 1500 lumens is not bad at all, (probably about the same in the low power mode as the 72 in the normal mode).
Gotta check it out!

I think my HD72 crapped itself. I'm moving the theater to another room and therefore had to unmount the projector from the ceiling. I had watched a movie that same night before unhooking it.

A few hours later I tried powering it up to test it in the new room. Within a minute of powering up successfully the screen goes blank and no light seems to be coming out of the projector. There was no Lamp Indicator light, just the normal power on light.

I switched it off and it did it's normal shutdown. Left it for an hour with the hard switch turned off. Turned it on, same problem. Powers up fine, no lamp light on. Normal green power light fully lit not flashing like in standby mode. Light comes out as it's powering up, Optoma boot up screen shows. Searches for a few seconds for inputs then light stops coming out.

Any ideas?

Interesting because the same thing happened to me about a week ago...

Finally traced it to the "bright mode" command under the lamp setting menu.
The lamp would only stay on in the bright mode "OFF" setting.

My guess is that is a thermal/juice draw setting problem with bulb age. Some
protection circuit is getting tripped (again only a guess).

I kind of liked it on but its not as true to the calibration if its on. I'll live with it off.

Interesting because the same thing happened to me about a week ago...

Finally traced it to the "bright mode" command under the lamp setting menu.
The lamp would only stay on in the bright mode "OFF" setting.

My guess is that is a thermal/juice draw setting problem with bulb age. Some
protection circuit is getting tripped (again only a guess).

I kind of liked it on but its not as true to the calibration if its on. I'll live with it off.


My HD72 is doing this too, with only about 600 hours on the bulb. I called Optoma and they asked me to send it in with an RMA. I hate taking this thing down because it is such a pain in the a@! to mount, but I would rather take care of this issue while it covered under warranty (bought July of last year)

I think my HD72 crapped itself. I'm moving the theater to another room and therefore had to unmount the projector from the ceiling. I had watched a movie that same night before unhooking it.

A few hours later I tried powering it up to test it in the new room. Within a minute of powering up successfully the screen goes blank and no light seems to be coming out of the projector. There was no Lamp Indicator light, just the normal power on light.

I switched it off and it did it's normal shutdown. Left it for an hour with the hard switch turned off. Turned it on, same problem. Powers up fine, no lamp light on. Normal green power light fully lit not flashing like in standby mode. Light comes out as it's powering up, Optoma boot up screen shows. Searches for a few seconds for inputs then light stops coming out.

Any ideas?


Did you take the lens cap off??




Sorry I had to be a prick........ :D


You guys are worrying me now as I have only 350 hrs on my HD6800.

Hello all -

I am a new and very proud owner of the HD72. I went through a Sony HS60 and the Epson Cinama 400 to get here, but hey, I'm here and happy. I upgraded from my trusty old H57. I thought I wanted to try LCD and I did try really hard. My conclusion, if you are a tweaking freak or geek maybe you will like LCD. The Sony gave me a few glimpses of nice, the Epson, well that is a story you can read in my post on the Epson 400 thread.

Anyways, I wanted the HD72 when they came out, but just couldn't budget the upgrade. But with the 400 rebate and catching a national brick and mortar store posting the HD72 yesterday morning at 1,453 and confirming with Optoma they would honor the rebate, I did it.

The picture is near perfection right out of the box for me. There is just a little green oversaturation in scences with lots of green like LOST episodes, but man I am one happy camper. I took the long road to get here, but I finally made it.

Congratulations and welcome. I have about 900 hours on mine now and I still love it like when it was new. The picture quality is excellent!

There is very little I would actually change about this projector. At what they're selling for now they're a real bargain.

Hello all -

I am a new and very proud owner of the HD72. I went through a Sony HS60 and the Epson Cinama 400 to get here, but hey, I'm here and happy. I upgraded from my trusty old H57. I thought I wanted to try LCD and I did try really hard. My conclusion, if you are a tweaking freak or geek maybe you will like LCD. The Sony gave me a few glimpses of nice, the Epson, well that is a story you can read in my post on the Epson 400 thread.

Anyways, I wanted the HD72 when they came out, but just couldn't budget the upgrade. But with the 400 rebate and catching a national brick and mortar store posting the HD72 yesterday morning at 1,453 and confirming with Optoma they would honor the rebate, I did it.

The picture is near perfection right out of the box for me. There is just a little green oversaturation in scences with lots of green like LOST episodes, but man I am one happy camper. I took the long road to get here, but I finally made it.

Congrats on the purchase.

I had a few LCD's before I bought my HD72.

DLP has far better picture depth or intra-scene contrast compared with LCD.

I even got a chance to see my friends Mitsubishi HC5000 1080p LCD and it still lacked in black and contrast. As good as the 1080p was, my 720p HD72 had better depth to the picture which in my mind is more important than resolution.

Seems this PJ is a couple generations old now, my oh my how quickly things move...

I've had mine somewhere around a year, was an early adopter. My 2nd unit has been practically flawless for a year, running every day. (My first had the reset issue)

I'm curious at this stage if there are any HD72 owners with high bulb hours?

I'm at 2600 hours, still going strong, although it's been giving me the "bulb change recommended" message for a long time now. It still seems plenty bright to me, so I'm going to keep going till she pops I guess.

I haven't even been especially easy on it either. I've moved from one house to another, never had any kind of power conditioner, etc.

I'm still extremely happy with the unit, and see no reason to upgrade till 1080p units drop down under the $2k price range.

-Micah

It's nice to read a happy story about an Optoma projector like this. :) 2600 hours!?!? It's paid for itself now that's for sure. Glad it's worked out for you so well.

Wayne

Pretty much the same story here....very pleased with my HD72 as well. Over 1500 hours now and counting. It's still plenty bright although I'm running in high lamp mode instead of low lamp mode now. The RS1 looks tempting, but I'm going to wait another generation or two for the kinks to get worked out.

Mike

I'm still very happy with my HD72. I don't have near the hours that you guys have but it works flawlessly and still has an extremely good picture. I looked at upgrading a while back but unless I could have set mine next to the "newer and better" units I didn't see an appreciable difference.

I've got an HD72 specific problem. It doesn't seem to play nice with composite video converted to s-video.

My Onkyo receiver cross converts (via a cheap comb filter?) composite to s-video. It looks awful on the projector - there's kind of a cross or hatching pattern to the video.

I tried circumventing it via a radioshack switcher that does the same thing - converts composite to s-video. Same exact image problem.

I circumvented the problem by running a composite video cable to the projector, but I'm worried about when I want to upgrade to a receiver that upconverts everything to component video or hdmi.

Does your source only have a composite out? I think I would upgrade the source if possible. Composite is a pretty low quality signal. Even the cheapest DVD players have at least Component out and often HDMI or DVI.

Does your source only have a composite out? I think I would upgrade the source if possible. Composite is a pretty low quality signal. Even the cheapest DVD players have at least Component out and often HDMI or DVI.

Well I'm down to just an 8-bit NES and a Sega Saturn. I weeded out the Sega CD a while ago. Can't get anything better than composite without some fancy soldering.

I was just curious if anyone else could see it. I never had a problem with the composite-svideo cross conversion with my Infocus X1.

Pretty much the same story here....very pleased with my HD72 as well. Over 1500 hours now and counting. It's still plenty bright although I'm running in high lamp mode instead of low lamp mode now. The RS1 looks tempting, but I'm going to wait another generation or two for the kinks to get worked out.

Mike

I think we can expect the Optoma models with the small white segment and Ti's brilliant color to stay way bright for many extra hours. I'd guess 40 or 45% longer. An AVS member posted he was at 7500 hours on the same bulb with my old favorite the H30. Says it's still plenty watchable. :)

That's not a typo is it Tom? :eek:

Wayne

Nope people were shocked when he was running the H30 at 7500hrs and still loving it. :)

Hi Tom,

I'd believe it. The small white segment is best used near the end of a bulbs life to liven up the whites. When new the clear segment will just burn your retinas in...way too bright. Not too much brilliant color still of course. The BC color processing will turn any movie into a Simpsons cartoon if too much is used.

I'm just glad I avoided the H78/H79 bulb issues. My old Sanyo Z2 was the same. Replace the bulb at every 700-800 hours. Ouch! If I get 2000-3000 hours I'll be more than happy considering the large 120" cinemascope screen I have. No reason why not at this point.

And this is still one of the few projectors that offers HD scaling for an anamorphic lens. Kudos to Optoma for that one. Great feature. Sony, Mitsubishi, and Panasonic should pay attention on that one.

Mike

I have the HD7100 but I wonder if those who own the HD6800 (which is basically the Costco clone of the HD72) might be able to achieve super high numbers on their lamps as well?

Wayne

Only 250 hours on my HD6800 so far but I will let you know soon. With game play and our main TV watching all being done on the projector it shouldn't take long!

Pretty much the same story here....very pleased with my HD72 as well. Over 1500 hours now and counting. It's still plenty bright although I'm running in high lamp mode instead of low lamp mode now. The RS1 looks tempting, but I'm going to wait another generation or two for the kinks to get worked out.

Mike

I too have had great luck so far (find the wood to knock...) with my HD72. About a 1000 hrs so far with another spare bulb waiting in the closet when this one gives out.

I did have one open question about the Bright Mode option. Just after the Super Bowl this year I had a scare with the HD72 in that the projector would simple turn the bulb "off" after being on for about 2-3 minutes of operation. The rest of the projector seemed to remain "on" as if it did not know the bulb was "off" (i.e. the fan was still running and the LED lights operated (I don't remember seeing any special pattern on the LEDs). If I cycled power (removed the power cord), the projector came back to life as if nothing was wrong.

After playing around with the settings for a while, I traced it down to the Bright Mode setting being "On". After turning this "Off", the projector has been working fine ever since (about 3 months now...). I had been using Bright Mode for quite a while prior to this (at least 6 months) without any problems until recently.

Has anyone else noticed this issue? I have tried to turn Bright Mode "On" since, but I am afraid to do so for any length of time.

Vince
Ashburn, VA

Well, I might have spoke too soon. :) At 2805 hours my PJ bulb runs for about 2 minutes, then goes dark while the PJ keeps running similar to Vince says above. What's odd is that while the bulb is on, it's fine. Plenty bright still. I've run it practically it's entire life in low-bright mode. Bright mode just didn't seem like enough difference to use it.

I tried resetting the hours to zero, but that didn't help. I even removed the bulb, and put it back in, no joy.

I thought when the bulb died it DIED. Is my bulb truly dead, or is this something else? It will come on, run for a minute or two, then the bulb goes out while the rest keeps running. You can turn off the PJ, turn it on, and the bulb shines for another minute or two.

Thankfully I've already gotten my fiance' so used to the big screen she has ordered me to order a new bulb ASAP, so no arguments that $400 is ridiculous or anything, heh. Too bad I got mine before all the free-spare-bulb offers. :-/

I just want to be sure it's the bulb that's the problem here?

-Micah

I replicated the bug too. It's not the bulb itself I believe, as it works fine if it boots up in low lamp mode and then is switched to high lamp mode after 5 min or so. It can run indefinitely this way. I'm not an expert in the power requirements for these bulbs at the end of their life but I'm wandering if something in the initial start up in high mode is not sufficient for the bulb (temperature related perhaps??).

Very strange...I'm 1603 hours now BTW.


On a side note...
Instead of picking up a new bulb I ordered up a new Sharp XV-Z12000 Mark II from the no-name warehouse store with a great return policy (much to the dismay of the Mrs.). Should be an interesting comparison. Worthy upgrade or marginal improvement? More to follow...

Mike

I tried switching mine to bright mode immediately after turning on, but the bulb still goes off, maybe even faster than the low mode I normally run.

I also tried turning on high-altitude mode to give it more cooling.

No joy, my bulb won't stay on over a couple minutes. I just find this a wierd way for a bulb to die. I thought it would just DIE, not start turning off after a minute or two.

I'm not complaining at all if it IS dead at 2800+ hours, just wish I knew it was for sure the bulb. I've used this thing for almost 8 hours a day for a year, hard to complain about the bulb. :)

-Micah

That is odd. Maybe just the way these bulbs start going. Even at 1600 hours I can't complain, but I still have life as that 2-3min turn off has only happened 3 times now and only in bright mode for me.

With my Z2 they definitely just died...no doubt about it.

Hi All,

I have confirmation that my HD-72 needs to go in for service or replacement to get rid of the dreaded dust blob. Is there anyone that can tell me there story of how that went.....
Like how long they were without there projector or how it looked like the projector had been threated? It been a great projector but the dust blob needs to go...

Thanks,
Ray

How did you guys fix the bulb turning off problem?

I accidentally put it in Bright mode today and even after turning back to normal it stuffs up.

I tried different orientation and still can't fix the problem.

Any ideas?

I didn't. I have to power cycle to get a recovery. Perhaps a new bulb is the only solution.

mine did the same thing at 1600 hrs, I took to Optoma and they said i needed a new bulb, so i had to get one

I booked it in for repair today.

Good thing is, it's still under warranty (3yrs) and the lamp bulb is still under warranty (700hrs used out of 1000hrs warranty)

I'll let you know how it goes.

Same with the bright mode here, happened at 683 hours for me, new bulb and bright mode is back. Also ImageAI could trigger mine. I noticed over a short time span, maybe a couple days, the time it took for the lamp to go out went from several minutes to about 45 seconds. What is really odd is that the temp light nor the lamp light gets set. I've contemplated/conjectured this quite a bit. Just not sure of the internals. I guess the lamp light is just a timer only with no sensing on current draw and the unit is not overheating. So to me that points to the bulb. I was thinking it could be contacts in the bulb that break contact with heat but that theory doesn't float. If you leave the unit on for a half hour after the bulb goes off, the unit is very cool and the bulb doesn't come back on by itself, you have to recycle power. I guess it could be that the bulb power circuit is protected in a sense that when too much current is flowing the bulb power supply circuit shuts off to protect from "over-current". Just a theory, don't know about the internals. That's the only complaint with the HD72 I have had so far, gorgeous picture absolutely love it.

I'm glad I brought this "Bright Mode" topic up and now have brethren seen the same issue.

I was hoping that someone from Optoma might be monitoring this thread and be able to offer their two cents.

Since the projector operates just fine without bright mode on, its hard to complain too much.
I too would bet its an over-current sensor protecting the other electronics.

Well, I might have spoke too soon. :) At 2805 hours my PJ bulb runs for about 2 minutes, then goes dark while the PJ keeps running similar to Vince says above. What's odd is that while the bulb is on, it's fine. Plenty bright still. I've run it practically it's entire life in low-bright mode. Bright mode just didn't seem like enough difference to use it.


Same problem here after 2000hrs ... The bright mode off didn't help.

Please post an update if a new lamp fixes the problem.

Same problem here after 2000hrs ... The bright mode off didn't help.

Please post an update if a new lamp fixes the problem.

Mine's still in for repair. Apparently they're ordering in a part from Singapore. I'll let you know how it pans out.

My old bulb started turning off like that at about 2200 hrs. I got a new one and it is fine now. I had never used bright mode so I was fairly upset when I barely got 2/3 the expected life out of it.

OK, I'm a little confused with all I have read. I admit I'm technically challenged so I'm a bit slow to catch on.

I'm seriously considering buying the Costco HD6800(HD72) bundle. I've read many reviews and comments and from what I've read the HD72 performs very well, though I have not seen output in person.

I'm concerned with my room and how I want to set it up. My room is 15 x 18 ft. I would like to mount it on the ceiling and use the Grey Wolf II 92" screen that comes with the package.

So what I have read is this projector does not work well with the Grey Wolf II screen when ceiling mounted. Is this because the Grey Wolf II adds quality to the output that is not built into the PJ? In other words the screen is compensating for some of the brightness, contrast or something the PJ is lacking?

Where I want to mount the setup is in my basement. The ceilings are 93" high or 7'9" but I do not have a finished ceiling yet. Though I don't think this matters since once I finish with drop ceiling, I would cut around the PJ mount.

So I have read the brightness and picture quality will not be as nice mounted from the ceiling. As well the view from the sides of the Projector will not be as nice?

What is required to improve this while still having it ceiling mounted. I don't want cables running across my floor, sat HDMI, DVD HDMI/Component, Power.

How far down does the mount (Optoma OEM) within the Costco Bundle allow you to drop the PJ. If you can drop it further does this improve the versatility? Costco sells another mount for $69 CAD that allows you to drop it 31" I think. That would mean for me the PJ would be 62" off the floor or if I seat at roughly 36", 26" above my line of sight? Would this improve the brightness and the side view?

Although my room is 15' wide there is a section that is wider where we sometimes put a chair for guests probably about 18' wide at about the 11' of the length mark.

I'm like so close to pulling the plug and purchasing this it hurts. I keep running it back and forth in my mind. The only thing holding me back is. Ok maybe a couple of things.

It is still a lot of money that I don't really have right now. And not sure If I really need a 92" screen and will the picture be good? I own a Toshiba 42" CRT Rear Projector that I have to say I'm a little unimpressed with the quality of some HD Sat programming. even Hockey games are not as clear as I would have expected. I do have high expectations so don't get me wrong, the picture is not unwatchable.

Another question I don't have all the answers for.

If I purchase a HD6800(HD72) from Costco. Why do I need to purchase an Upconverting DVD player like the Oppo 971? If the PJ does upconverting and someone told me it uses the same chipset as the Oppo971(very good reviews) why will the PJ not do just as good a job at upconverting 480i or is it p to 720p?

Did I mention I'm cheap? Don't want to have to spend another couple of hundred bucks for a DVD player.

this projector has a very big offset...meaning that it needs to be mounted high to have the picture at a decent level without electronic adjustments. I have 9 foot ceilings and my HD72 is mount drops it down about 6 inches. So the lens is at about 8' 6" and that places the bottom of the image about 36" off the floor....just about right.

Your ceiling may be too low for the big offset in this projector. You may be able to do a "table top" mount (meaning mount it about 6-8" off the floor and project it that way)

Another question I don't have all the answers for.

If I purchase a HD6800(HD72) from Costco. Why do I need to purchase an Upconverting DVD player like the Oppo 971? If the PJ does upconverting and someone told me it uses the same chipset as the Oppo971(very good reviews) why will the PJ not do just as good a job at upconverting 480i or is it p to 720p?

Did I mention I'm cheap? Don't want to have to spend another couple of hundred bucks for a DVD player.

You will just need to constantly change the resolution when going from an HD source to an SD source. If you are considering the Oppo, why not pick up the Toshiba HD-D2 at Costco (HD DVD Player) and enjoy HD DVD's, too.

I bought a upconverting player mainly to avoid having to change the aspect ratio between my HDTV tuner and DVD's.

You will just need to constantly change the resolution when going from an HD source to an SD source. If you are considering the Oppo, why not pick up the Toshiba HD-D2 at Costco (HD DVD Player) and enjoy HD DVD's, too.

I bought a upconverting player mainly to avoid having to change the aspect ratio between my HDTV tuner and DVD's.

OK, I'm not sure I understand your response completely. What do you mean I will have to switch resolution? Will the PF not upconvert from 480 to 720p? As well what do you mean avoid changing the aspect ratio? If I'm watching a widescreen DVD on my existing progressive scan 480 DVD player will the PJ not still show it wide screen and upconvert to 720p?

this projector has a very big offset...meaning that it needs to be mounted high to have the picture at a decent level without electronic adjustments. I have 9 foot ceilings and my HD72 is mount drops it down about 6 inches. So the lens is at about 8' 6" and that places the bottom of the image about 36" off the floor....just about right.

Your ceiling may be too low for the big offset in this projector. You may be able to do a "table top" mount (meaning mount it about 6-8" off the floor and project it that way)


WHAT!!!! Your telling me you should have ceilings 8'6" or higher even 9'? Your Screen is 36" off the floor. What if mine was lower similiar to how high my 42" CRT RPTV is from the floor which is I believe about 24" So that is about a foot lower than yours, so does that mean I still need 8' ceilings?

If you run 2 different sources (720p and 480p) you will need to adjust the projector each time otherwise the 480p signal will not fill the screen, but rather a smaller window within the screen. If you are just using 480p (DVD) signals, then you won't have to adjust this selection.

For big screens, the "optimal" height is where your eyes at a normal seating position are in line with a point 1/3 of the way up the screen. Of course you can mount it lower and use the keystone correction to "stretch" some pixels to give a square image, but that isn't optimal. In other words, you will have to implement electronic keystone correction.

(Keystone = A type of distortion in which the displayed image is smaller at Top (or Bottom) of the screen than at the Bottom (or Top). Normally it is caused by improper projector-to-screen angle. Named for its similarity in shape to the keystone used in constructing an arch.)

Here is an example of what may happen:
http://htrgroup.com/images/doc_keystone_bookshelf.jpg

[QUOTE=sivartk]If you run 2 different sources (720p and 480p) you will need to adjust the projector each time otherwise the 480p signal will not fill the screen, but rather a smaller window within the screen. If you are just using 480p (DVD) signals, then you won't have to adjust this selection.

For big screens, the "optimal" height is where your eyes at a normal seating position are in line with a point 1/3 of the way up the screen. Of course you can mount it lower and use the keystone correction to "stretch" some pixels to give a square image, but that isn't optimal. In other words, you will have to implement electronic keystone correction.

(Keystone = A type of distortion in which the displayed image is smaller at Top (or Bottom) of the screen than at the Bottom (or Top). Normally it is caused by improper projector-to-screen angle. Named for its similarity in shape to the keystone used in constructing an arch.)

Here is an example of what may happen:
/QUOTE]

OK so in your example if you lowered the PJ more from the ceiling would this not correct this?

So if optimal viewing is 1/3 up a screen that would be 15" (1/3 of 45") up a 92" diagonal screen. so if the average seated height is 36" the bottom of the screen should be around 21" from the floor.

Do you not always have to make some sort of Keystone adjustment?

[QUOTE=sivartk]If you run 2 different sources (720p and 480p) you will need to adjust the projector each time otherwise the 480p signal will not fill the screen, but rather a smaller window within the screen. If you are just using 480p (DVD) signals, then you won't have to adjust this selection.

For big screens, the "optimal" height is where your eyes at a normal seating position are in line with a point 1/3 of the way up the screen. Of course you can mount it lower and use the keystone correction to "stretch" some pixels to give a square image, but that isn't optimal. In other words, you will have to implement electronic keystone correction.

(Keystone = A type of distortion in which the displayed image is smaller at Top (or Bottom) of the screen than at the Bottom (or Top). Normally it is caused by improper projector-to-screen angle. Named for its similarity in shape to the keystone used in constructing an arch.)

Here is an example of what may happen:
/QUOTE]

OK so in your example if you lowered the PJ more from the ceiling would this not correct this?

So if optimal viewing is 1/3 up a screen that would be 15" (1/3 of 45") up a 92" diagonal screen. so if the average seated height is 36" the bottom of the screen should be around 21" from the floor.


Hey Outdoor:


If you ceiling mount so that the center of the lens is at 7'3" your picture will be 24" from the floor. This is how I watch my HD70 and it works fine.

Ceiling mounting your PJ and shining it on a retroreflective screen will direct the light more back towards the PJ so you won't get the full gain but you will still get a good picture.

As for always changing the aspect ratio - I don't know what's going on there but just set your PJ to 16 x 9 and the PJ will do the rest. I know because I do that myself. No need for an upconverting player - at least not yet! Save for a blue laser instead.

One question: Why are you paying twice the cost of an HD70 for only 200 more quoted lumens?

[QUOTE=outdoor]


Hey Outdoor:


If you ceiling mount so that the center of the lens is at 7'3" your picture will be 24" from the floor. This is how I watch my HD70 and it works fine.

Ceiling mounting your PJ and shining it on a retroreflective screen will direct the light more back towards the PJ so you won't get the full gain but you will still get a good picture.

As for always changing the aspect ratio - I don't know what's going on there but just set your PJ to 16 x 9 and the PJ will do the rest. I know because I do that myself. No need for an upconverting player - at least not yet! Save for a blue laser instead.

One question: Why are you paying twice the cost of an HD70 for only 200 more quoted lumens?

Do you think the HD70 is just as good? I'm not sure If I'm allowed to type this, but the deal at a large membership warehouse in Canada offers a very good bundle of the HD72, screen, mount and free shipping I'm not sure I've found the HD70 anywhere that is sufficiently less

As well In reviews I've read

HD72 seems to bring out incrementally more shadow detail and a slightly better black level, but the difference is only really noticeable in a side by side comparison.

The HD72 shows some slightly better color performance. The tonal gradient issue that we observed on the HD70 was nowhere to be seen on the HD72, primarily due to the HD72's 10-bit color processing versus the 8-bit processing on the HD70. The result is smoother, less noticeable differentiations on the HD72 than on the HD70


the extra contrast and color smoothness of the HD72 help to give it an incrementally more three-dimensional picture. The HD70 still displays a fine high definition picture, but the HD72 is a bit more elegant when placed head-to-head.

Finally, the HD72 has several other features that the HD70 lacks including a DVI port (the HD70 has an HDMI port, but the HD72 has both), lower audible noise

[QUOTE=reconlabtech]

Do you think the HD70 is just as good? I'm not sure If I'm allowed to type this, but the deal at a large membership warehouse in Canada offers a very good bundle of the HD72, screen, mount and free shipping I'm not sure I've found the HD70 anywhere that is sufficiently less


I just PM'ed you with two options you should look at.

Of course, now that I see you are referencing Canada, those may not work out but my prvious notes still apply for the HD72.

Do you not always have to make some sort of Keystone adjustment?

I haven't done any keystone adjustment on my projector because I hung the projector, got it to the viewing level I wanted (without adjustment) and then hung the screen.

If you run 2 different sources (720p and 480p) you will need to adjust the projector each time otherwise the 480p signal will not fill the screen, but rather a smaller window within the screen. If you are just using 480p (DVD) signals, then you won't have to adjust this selection.


Ummm...no. That's crazy talk. Unless you have the projector set to "native" (then I think you will run into this...). I run 480i over HDMI for DVDs, 480p for Wii, 720p for Dish HD / Xbox360.

The only thing that requires constant adjustment is manually changing the aspect ratio for 4:3 stuff.

BTW on upconverting DVD players: supposedly only the overseas models of HD72s have Faroudja DCDi. But mine from buy.com came with Faroudja DCDi (it is even labeled on the projector). So I would still be using my Zenith DVB-318 upconverting DVD player with Faroudja. But since I have it already in the pj I use an Oppo 970 for 480i over HDMI and put that extra DVI slot to good use.

Ummm...no. That's crazy talk. Unless you have the projector set to "native" (then I think you will run into this...). I run 480i over HDMI for DVDs, 480p for Wii, 720p for Dish HD / Xbox360.



Exactly, I have mine set to native with an upconvert player. That way I don't have to worry about "is this a widescreen DVD" for every movie or switch everytime I go from watching a 480i TV program to a 720p TV program.

Actually, I never have to touch mine at all with "native" mode. Always plays in OAR...the only way I will watch :D

Just FYI I bought my HD72 at circuitcity in the US and it has Faroudja DCDi which BTW is clearly labeled on the lower right hand corner on the front of the PJ as well as in the manual. My screen is an Elite ez-Electric VMAX100UWH, it is not glass beaded, it is washable and the picture looks great. I have connected an OPPO DV-981HD and a Panasonic DMR-ES46VS on the HD72 and saw no real difference. But connecting an OPPO DV-981HD and a Panasonic DMR-ES46VS to my Vizio GV47L did yield a difference. So I currently have the Oppo connected to the Vizio and the Panasonic connected to the Optoma. Faroudja DCDi does make a difference but you don't need it in the player and the HD-72 IMHO. There is a decent review on projectorcentral on the 70, 72 and now 73 that compares them and discusses their differences. From what I have read, I would still select the 72 for my tastes. But the best, as always, is to see them yourself in person before you buy. Personally I do not find using the remote, either the Optoma OEM or my Harmony 880, to change the aspect ratio that big of a deal, but it is a slight nuisance.

I think my HD72 crapped itself. I'm moving the theater to another room and therefore had to unmount the projector from the ceiling. I had watched a movie that same night before unhooking it.

A few hours later I tried powering it up to test it in the new room. Within a minute of powering up successfully the screen goes blank and no light seems to be coming out of the projector. There was no Lamp Indicator light, just the normal power on light.

I switched it off and it did it's normal shutdown. Left it for an hour with the hard switch turned off. Turned it on, same problem. Powers up fine, no lamp light on. Normal green power light fully lit not flashing like in standby mode. Light comes out as it's powering up, Optoma boot up screen shows. Searches for a few seconds for inputs then light stops coming out.

Any ideas?

Add me to the list of HD72's having bulb shutoff problems.

How has your experience been with having this repaired? I've had mine since July with only 690 hours logged on the bulb. I have a spare but I want this problem fixed. I love this projector but this has really disappointed me.

My HD72 is doing this too, with only about 600 hours on the bulb. I called Optoma and they asked me to send it in with an RMA. I hate taking this thing down because it is such a pain in the a@! to mount, but I would rather take care of this issue while it covered under warranty (bought July of last year)

I'm having the same issue and I bought mine in July too. 690 hours used.

I'm getting ready to fill out the Online Tech Support but if you don't mind can you give me the Optoma support phone number. I would feel a little better talking with someone over the phone.

What's the status so far with your repair?

I'm having the same issue and I bought mine in July too. 690 hours used.

I'm getting ready to fill out the Online Tech Support but if you don't mind can you give me the Optoma support phone number. I would feel a little better talking with someone over the phone.

What's the status so far with your repair?

It's nice to know I'm not alone in having this problem. Just started having the same problem a couple of days ago at ~950 hours. Turned off bright mode and it's good to go, but having problems after only 1/3 of the lamp life is annoying.

Hi All,
We just purchased an Optoma HD72 during Christmas and all has been quite well so far.

Recently, I have noticed one oddity in the system and I will outline it below!


I have a Xbox 360
Onkyo 7.1 Reciever
Good Quality Cable
When I am in the Xbox 360 Dashboard, the Games Blade creates a green "haze" on the bottom of the screen. Only This bade does it, and it should not happen.
I don't really see this affect anywhere else, but I am concerned. I will take a picture and post and revise this if necessary.

It's nice to know I'm not alone in having this problem. Just started having the same problem a couple of days ago at ~950 hours. Turned off bright mode and it's good to go, but having problems after only 1/3 of the lamp life is annoying.

I contacted Optoma and they RMA'd the bulb. At first the tech said he would give me a "discount" on a new bulb. After I said I was not happy with under 700 hours on a bulb thats advertised for 3000 he changed his tone and sent me a replacement for free.

If I were you I would give them a call and see if they will replace the bulb. I never put the bulb in Bright Mode and it still went out early.

Another HD72 bulb down for the count at 930 hrs. The bulb would fire up to full brightness for approx. 2-3 minutes then completely shut off, no warning, no lamp light. Installed my back-up bulb and its working fine. Funny thing is the problem bulb did not lose much brightness at all compared to the new bulb.


Kevin

Another HD72 bulb down for the count at 930 hrs. The bulb would fire up to full brightness for approx. 2-3 minutes then completely shut off, no warning, no lamp light. Installed my back-up bulb and its working fine. Funny thing is the problem bulb did not lose much brightness at all compared to the new bulb.


Kevin

FYI there is an interesting thread about the HD72's and bulb failure over here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=851041&highlight=bulb

Essentially the HD72's are thinking the bulbs are dead way before they should be. I'm currently sending mine in to get this and a couple other issues fixed.

FYI there is an interesting thread about the HD72's and bulb failure over here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=851041&highlight=bulb

Essentially the HD72's are thinking the bulbs are dead way before they should be. I'm currently sending mine in to get this and a couple other issues fixed.

Sounds like this solidifies my choice to return my HD72 & get the HD1000. Don't get me wrong.... I love the HD72, but I would rather not take the risk. As well, I can save about $500.

FYI there is an interesting thread about the HD72's and bulb failure over here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=851041&highlight=bulb

Essentially the HD72's are thinking the bulbs are dead way before they should be. I'm currently sending mine in to get this and a couple other issues fixed.


Thanks for the tip!

Kevin

Please, help me with this: I have the H72 (awesome projector, by the way :rolleyes: ) and a DVD Player that upscales the image to 720p through both component and HDMI signals. At the moment, I´m using a component cable. So, is it worthy buying a HDMI cable? Which signal would be better for a DVD player on this projector?

Thank you!

I couldn't wait to get my HDMI cable, but then after I got it installed, it was really hard to tell a difference if any between that and component. Actually, I couldn't tell a difference between my Denon 1910 upconverting to 720p and the projector upconverting. It all looks pretty good.

I personally can't really tell the difference between component and HDMI either.

Usually you will only notice a difference with HD sources, although the difference is usually not in crispness, but in color. Especially with longer cable runs typical of a projector install, if you use cheaper component cables, there may be some color loss. With good cables (I use BlueJeansCables myself) there should not be much difference.

Well my HD72 bit the dust last weekend, power indicator doesn't even flash. Tried my old bulb that would at least allow power up no dice. I didn't realize this, but apparently you can't check the bulb with a multimeter. Both the old and the "new" one reads as open. Emailed Optoma tech support and they sent a RMA form to fill out. I faxed it last week but have not heard back so refaxed and emailed it today. Of course given the holiday weekend won't hear back from them until mid to late next week. So in the meantime, I got a Mitsubishi HC1500.

I have had the HD72 for about 1.5 years now. I just noticed a hair in the image. Naturally I cleaned the lens thinking it was just one of the dog hairs on it but alas it is not on the lens. It does not turn as you rotate the lens either. I have therefore concluded that somehow a hair has gotten inside somewhere. I will take the projector down and take a look inside the bulb hatch to see if I can find the hair.

Any other suggestions?

Get rid of the dog? :D

No, seriously, be careful that you don't void your warranty if your pj is still covered. Have you thought of using compressed air?

Wayne

Get rid of the dog? :D

No, seriously, be careful that you don't void your warranty if your pj is still covered. Have you thought of using compressed air?

WayneI have one of those puffer balls for cleaning cameras. I only intend to open the access door to the bulb and blow our any hair or dust I can see in there.

Got the HD72 back today, they shipped it via DHL in an original box with a couple layers of bubblewrap and a few styrofoam peanuts. I had shipped it in a much larger box packed with nothing but several layers of bubblewrap via UPS standard ground. Swapped it out with the HC1500, plugged it in and it seems to work great. Technician's Analysis from the Repair Report:

Defective Symptom: Part Number Part Description
1.Function OK but need to implem 75.83J01G002 ASSY OSRAM LAMPDRIVER 230W(435
2.No Power 75.83F12G001 ASSY LVPS TIGERPOWER 200W H72

Having swapped it out in less than 5 minutes and looking at the same program, the HD72 has a better image than the HC1500 but the HC1500 was a lot brighter even on LOW. Better image defined as better upscalar on low def, less jaggies.

It just hapen today, my pj is showing white vertical lines, about 50 of them,
they look eq. spaced. I did try to restart ... unplug, new power cable & outlet ... , nothing helps. Any advise ?

It just hapen today, my pj is showing white vertical lines, about 50 of them,
they look eq. spaced. I did try to restart ... unplug, new power cable & outlet ... , nothing helps. Any advise ?

I've had this problem a few times recently after they fixed the switching off issue.

It has something to do with the lens I think. I tapped the lens gently and it seemed to go way.

Thanks Tukkis, i tapped the box (not the lens) and it "fix it".
Next day it hapen again, i had to tap a bit more and also the lines returned during the movie so few more taps were given.
:( ... well i wonder what happens next, will it get to a point that i need to keep a hamer next to remote ?
BTW i read somewere that those lines hapens when the color weel gets out of alignment.

My HD72 is doing the same bulb thing - bulb goes out after a few seconds of uptime. I tried high altitude mode and turning on bright mode (never used it before). No dice. Guess I'm calling Optoma. I'm just under 1 year by about a month so I should be covered....

FYI there is an interesting thread about the HD72's and bulb failure over here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=851041&highlight=bulb

Essentially the HD72's are thinking the bulbs are dead way before they should be. I'm currently sending mine in to get this and a couple other issues fixed.

NizZ8 - I know its been a while since your post, but I'm curious what your experience was with Optoma Warranty Service for the bulb issue. When I called for the same issue they were insistent that it was a dead bulb, but like others on this thread I noticed that the bulb seems fine, its just that the projector thinks its dead. I also read that other thread you referenced.

So how did you get the Optoma people to recognize that it was their issue and not the bulb's? Also, how long were you without a projector? Did you have to pay anything? And did the problem go away? Thanks for any help you can provide from your experience.

I just had the same issue with mine. I sent an email to their tech support along with a link to the bulb failure thread shown above. They asked that I return the unit. From what I gather, they can fix it, but can't tell if they are repl bulbs or doing something to the unit. Either, way I think it gets fixed. I didn't want to put another $400 bulb in and the same thing happen in 800 hrs. Good luck with it.

I agree, I don't want to keep replacing bulbs at ~1000 hours or less at $400 each. It would be interesting if you could get them to say what they did when they send it back to you. If they replace your bulb, you're good to go for now, but maybe only for ~1000 hours. Then when you fall out of the warrantee period you're on your own. If they actually fix the unit, then you might get closer to the rating of ~3000 hours for each bulb, which over the life of the projector is a big deal. I used about 900 hours in a year, so if there isn't a fix then I have to face paying $400 a year - its like buying a new TV every year! This is not what I was hoping for when I got this projector. Other than this issue its great, but after a while I'd get tired of that and would have to switch brands.

For now my bulb is working again (I blew out the projector with a leaf blower to get all the dust off the vents), and I'd like to make it through football season before sending it to Optoma, but I think the handwriting is on the wall that I have to have some work done.

It's too bad. Besides the limited throw range, this common bulb issue was one of the reasons I decided to return the HD72 box-unopened.

Then again, the Panasonic I've since ordered is a rehash of a previous model (PT-AX100U) which had the dreaded iris problem.

It seems to me that as HD projectors enter the lower cost mainstream, the QA on many of these units is beginning to suffer too.

I love this proj. I am just hoping to make it last until the 1080p LED units are viable. From what I can tell, Optoma seems to be trying to do the right thing here which bodes well for future purchases.

I just had to send mine in for the same reason. The tech guy said it might be the bulb, when I said it had less than 800 hours of the advertised 3000 he tried to say that was just an average hour rating... I asked if that meant some were getting 9000 hours , he didn't seem to appreciate the remark... we will see how this goes, I don't like being without the projector for for more than a week...All that said, I do love the picture quality

The HD72 when purchased from an authorized retailer has a 2 year warranty.

The issue with the bulb turning off after about 15-30 seconds up being on is a known issue with Optoma and they will repair it under warranty. This is not a bulb issue, it is a projector issue.

The guy on the other thread has this same issue. In my case Optoma had my projector repaired and back to me quickly. A pain to be sure, but stuff happens - one of the reasons I went with this PJ was the 2 year warranty.

Hi Guys

I searched through this thread and have not found the answer to my question, so here goes:

Using the HD72 ceiling mounted in a light-controlled environment, what screen fabric from Da-Lite should I use?

I have a Da-Mat screen on their Da-Snap frame, but the black levels are not very good. The images are always vibrant, but my blacks are gray.

I've experimented with their samples book, and from what I can tell I should be looking for either the High-Contrast Cinema Vision (1.1g) or the High-Contrast Da-Mat (0.8g)

I've calibrated with both samples, and what I saw was a slight improvement in black level on the HCCV with a barely noticable drop in white level. With the HCDM screen, the black level improved tremendously (almost to the point that I couldn't tell where my felt masking started in dark scenes) but the brights were cut down considerably.

Now a friend of mine says that when it's applied to the whole screen, I won't notice the drop as much, and the perceived contrast will still be better than my Da-Mat. But before I spend $3-380 on new material I thought I'd ask you all.

My H72 is paired with Da-Lite HCCV and have been extremely happy with it.

Hi Guys

I've calibrated with both samples, and what I saw was a slight improvement in black level on the HCCV with a barely noticable drop in white level. With the HCDM screen, the black level improved tremendously (almost to the point that I couldn't tell where my felt masking started in dark scenes) but the brights were cut down considerably.

Now a friend of mine says that when it's applied to the whole screen, I won't notice the drop as much, and the perceived contrast will still be better than my Da-Mat. But before I spend $3-380 on new material I thought I'd ask you all.

I agree with your friend. However, you should be sure your overall image is at a comfortable level of brightness. Afterall, you are giving up more than 25% of your lumen output with the darker screen. If you still have a bright enough image - that you aren't wishing for more lumens, go for the Da-Mat.

One caveat though - consider your wall (floor and ceiling). If they are light (off white, etc.), may well be happier with the HCCV, regardless. Off white walls, tend to make one want more lumens, primarily since your room remains less than fully darkened, just by reflected light from your projected image. Just my personal 2 cents. One of my rooms still has off white walls, the other are pretty dark.

Ah, ok then to add:
Two-tone walls, cream above and dark brown below
White ceiling
Dark brownish-red carpet.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=93354&d=1193858528

I have had the HD72 for about 1.5 years now. I just noticed a hair in the image. Naturally I cleaned the lens thinking it was just one of the dog hairs on it but alas it is not on the lens. It does not turn as you rotate the lens either. I have therefore concluded that somehow a hair has gotten inside somewhere. I will take the projector down and take a look inside the bulb hatch to see if I can find the hair.

Any other suggestions?I fixed this problem!

I climbed up close to the projector and blew as hard as I could into the exhaust vent. I heard someone else actually blew it out with a leaf blower! :eek:

I just purchased my HD72 for entry level (using it or outdoor use at the moment till my son moves out...hehehe.) I like it so far. Good image. Not too loud outdoors anyway.

A friend has had a HD72 for over a year. He only sent 480p signal until last week, when he purchased a PS3. The HD72 can't sync up and display 720p or 1080i signal from the PS3. 480p from the PS3 is fine. He is using HDMI connection. We then hooked up a upconverting DVD player (Toshiba 5000) and the problem is the same.

Is there an easy fix? (He is ready to pack and send the pj to Optoma - out of warranty fix.)

A friend has had a HD72 for over a year. He only sent 480p signal until last week, when he purchased a PS3. The HD72 can't sync up and display 720p or 1080i signal from the PS3. 480p from the PS3 is fine. He is using HDMI connection. We then hooked up a upconverting DVD player (Toshiba 5000) and the problem is the same.

Is there an easy fix? (He is ready to pack and send the pj to Optoma - out of warranty fix.)

You can also try the DVI port which has HDCP support. Grab an HDMI-DVI cable from Monoprice.com for a couple of bucks and give it a whirl.

did any body was able to feed the pj with 1080p24 signal ?
what did the pj display\conv. to 720p24 or 48 , 72 , 60Hz ?

did any body was able to feed the pj with 1080p24 signal ?
what did the pj display\conv. to 720p24 or 48 , 72 , 60Hz ?

It accepts 1080p 24hz but I'm unsure yet if it is converting to 60hz or 48 hz internally. I was going to test out a few BDs and see if the judder seemed any better but I have't had the time to mess with it.

I've been having a problem with my projector. It was in the shop for the bulb not turning on thing, and it came back with a few other problems.

The one I'm worried about is that now, whenever there is a gradual change in color from one part of the screen to another (like across a blue sky, for example), there is a noticeable amount of what looks like some form of banding. When I turn down the brightness, that seems to help. So does turning down the BrilliantColor. But obviously, if I turn down the brightness too much, the blacks are too dark. Any suggestions?

I've been having a problem with my projector. It was in the shop for the bulb not turning on thing, and it came back with a few other problems.

The one I'm worried about is that now, whenever there is a gradual change in color from one part of the screen to another (like across a blue sky, for example), there is a noticeable amount of what looks like some form of banding. When I turn down the brightness, that seems to help. So does turning down the BrilliantColor. But obviously, if I turn down the brightness too much, the blacks are too dark. Any suggestions?

I was concerned about the images on my HD72 projector looking muddy, so when I was in Fry's yesterday, they had Digital Video Essentials HD-DVD on sale for $20, so picked up one.

WOW! I made some huge changes in my settings and now my picture absolutely rocks! I'm using a Stewart Studiotek 130 screen, 92" diagonal, with Verizon Fios HD-DVR using 350 MHz component cables from Extron and Toshiba HD-A3 HD-DVD using a VizionWare HiWirez 5M HDMI cable. On both inputs I've turned down the brightness considerably, but my adjustments actually increased my brightness and increased the shadow detail while bringing my black levels down. Here's my new settings (only worked on Bright mode so far with DeGamma set to Video) and they worked great for me:

HDMI

Mode: Bright
Contrast: -7
Brightness: -18
Color: +2
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0

DeGamma: Video
Brilliant Color: +4
TrueVivid: 0
Color Temp: +1

Red Gain: -15
Green Gain: -19
Blue Gain: -16
Red Bias: +10
Green Bias: +8
Blue Bias: +9

Component Video

Mode: Bright
Contrast: +11
Brightness: -7
Color: -10
Tint: 0
Sharpness: +3

DeGamma: Video
Brilliant Color: +4
TrueVivid: 0
Color Temp: +1

Red Gain: +3
Green Gain: -13
Blue Gain: -2
Red Bias: -1
Green Bias: 0
Blue Bias: -6

I've considered getting the HD-DVD DVE but I've only calibrated with the SD version.

whenever there is a gradual change in color from one part of the screen to another (like across a blue sky, for example), there is a noticeable amount of what looks like some form of banding. When I turn down the brightness, that seems to help. So does turning down the BrilliantColor. But obviously, if I turn down the brightness too much, the blacks are too dark. Any suggestions?

I figured out that this problem had to do with the blue being too high in the RGB settings.

But now I have another problem. I sent my unit in to Optoma because the bulb wasn't staying on. The unit came back to me with that problem gone, but another in its place.

There are a number of vertical lines running down the image at times. It looks as though a line of resolution appears where it should, and then again to the right of where it should. In other words, if you were to number each line of resolution going across the screen, the info on, say, line #20 would appear again on line #70.

They are always in the same place. For example Line #70 will always be affected, but Lines #69 and 71 will never be. If I do a horizontal image shift, the line does not shift with the image.

They appear when the image in that part of the picture is darker than the area to left of it. For example, if the picture is of a black object on a white background, there will be a white line running through the black object, but not a black line running through the white background. And if the screen is all one color, no lines will be visible.

The lines are definitely related to the content being shown. As the image changes, lines come and go. It's very rare that you see them running down the entire length of the screen, because it's very rare that every pixel of our hypothetical Line #20 will be brighter than the corresponding pixel on Line #70.

The lines are present on all sources and all inputs.

I reported the problem to Optoma, and they had me send the unit back for repair. They replaced the main board, which was also done the first time I had sent projector in.

I received the projector yesterday, only to discover that the problem is still present. I called Optoma, and they said that the unit had gone through extensive QC testing after it had been repaired, and no problem was detected.

Because of this, the tech I talked to was under the impression that the problem was coming from an outside source, possibly a grounding issue. He suggested I try using a 3-to-2 prong power adapter. I tried that, but it didn't help. I'm planning on buying a new extension cord and plugging it into a different outlet to see if that works.

While I respect Optoma's techs, I'm not entirely convinced with their theories for a few reasons. First, I'm not convinced that the problem wasn't there when the unit was QC'd. I know that these guys are trained to notice small details, but the first time around, they missed a huge dust blob right in the center of the screen which wasn't there when I sent the unit off. This problem is much more subtle than that.

Secondly, this is not a case of uniform interference which is present no matter what is being viewed. It is very content-specific, and changes as the content changes. I mean, the lines will come and go even with tiny movement in a single shot.

And finally, nothing about my setup has changed other than the projector. So for this problem to be unrelated seems highly coincidental.

Optoma said that they will pay for shipping and everything if I send the unit back, but I'd like to make sure that this is actually a projector problem before I lose it again for another couple weeks.

So my question is, has anyone else experienced this problem, and do you think it's the projector? Thanks.

As an update to my last post, I have now tested every possible variable from the source and the input to the power cord and outlet. The lines are always present. The only constant, aside from the projector, is the house. I'm relatively certain that it's a problem with the projector, but again, if anyone can provide me with theories as to the cause, it would be greatly appreciated.

I've considered getting the HD-DVD DVE but I've only calibrated with the SD version.

the sd version is quite a challenge to move around in. the hd version is much easier, but does not include all the information and walk through that the sd version has, but is not a problem if you've ever used dve sd before.

Forgive me if I have missed it. I have just put a few hours into searching and trying to get caught up on this thread. However, while there have been occasional postings with regard to 1080p content, I didn't see any absolute, definitive postings that stated how this projector performed with 1080P content.

I am going to purchase HD disc player. Still considering my options. (High end BD transport, entry level, PS3, or combo player) I recently purchased one of the new Denons with full HDMI 1.3a circuitry. It has an option to upscale various video sources up to 1080P. Upon doing this, for testing purposes, with a regular DVD player, it worked. But the PQ seamed to have color issues. A lot like what happens when you have 16bit or higher wallpaper on your computer being shown in 256 color mode. Like before the video drivers of a new video card would be installed. I don't have this issue when the same signal is output to my 1080p HDTV.

So, has anyone else encountered this? Is it Has anyone hooked up 1080P hardware over HDMI? What are your recommendations as far as which HD players to bang up job on any price scale?

FYI I am aware that this is a 720p native projector that uses wobulation to achieve 1080p. So I won't get my hopes up. If 1080p doesn't work well, how is the down scaling to 1080i or even 720p.

From my experience, 1080p looks better than anything else on this projector unless the content's original resolution is 720p.

I've experimented with outputting all resolutions. For devices not capable of 1080p, it's a toss-up. My cable box looks best at 720p, and my HD DVD player looks best at 1080i.

But the two Blu-ray players I've had look significantly better at 1080p. The PS3 can be output at 24fps, and while the difference is not night and day, It does seem to look better that way.

In terms of PQ, I've been very happy with this projector. Customer service is another matter altogether. For that reason, I'm not sure I'd recommend it.

Thanks. So I take it that there were not any funny color depth issues like I described before?

Thanks for your input. I sincerely appreciate it.

I've encountered my fair share of problems with the projector, but that wasn't one of them.

OMG THIS IS SO WRONG!!!!


Superbowl party... my house... all set up, everyone is showing up, I am running out to the store for some last minute snacks and get a phone call from my buddy "Your projector just went out".

Yup... 45 minutes before kickoff on Superbowl Sunday I get the "on for 5 seconds and then off" problem... I AM SO FRIGGING MAD RIGHT NOW!!!

I had to pull out my backup TV and we have to watch on a 26 inch screen now :mad:

No good teams worth watching anyway...I'm not wasting my bulb life on that game :p

Go '72 Dolphins!!!!!!!!!!!

Yeah it's not being the most stunning game... 10 points in 3 quarters... still pissed though... just tried the PJ again after an hour of cooling down... nada... 5 seconds then blank :(

Before yesterday I check the “lamp hour“in setup it showed 598, after 1 hour it still showed 598?
Yesterday I did check the settings every 10 min. (the movie was not the best) after it did change to 599 I check the clock … it took 2hours to change from 599 to 600 !!! Well … so do I have 1200 hours on my lamp? Anybody with that “problem”?
My pj is the HD6800 version.

From my experience, 1080p looks better than anything else on this projector unless the content's original resolution is 720p.

I've experimented with outputting all resolutions. For devices not capable of 1080p, it's a toss-up. My cable box looks best at 720p, and my HD DVD player looks best at 1080i.

But the two Blu-ray players I've had look significantly better at 1080p. The PS3 can be output at 24fps, and while the difference is not night and day, It does seem to look better that way.

In terms of PQ, I've been very happy with this projector. Customer service is another matter altogether. For that reason, I'm not sure I'd recommend it.

I have similar results. I don't let my cable box do any scaling, if the network broadcasts in 1080i then it looks best to send that to the PJ. If the broadcast is 720p it looks better sent out 720 but a lot of times I don't bother to switch it. If I let the cable box do any scaling the picture is good but not quite as sharp.

The blu ray player looks the best on 1080p. To me the difference is significant between the players 720p and 1080p output.

No color issues. The PJ was originally D65'd and I check periodically with DVE just to make sure it hasn't shifted too much since adding new equipment.

Just wondering if anyone has experienced the same problem I am having? For no apparent reason my HD6800 stopped receiving the signal from my remote. The projector is working fine and the controls on it work. The remote lights up when a button is pushed but the projector is not receiving its signal. Any ideas?

You probably have already tried these two solutions.
1. Change batteries in remote even if it lights up still might have a weak signal.
2. Power cycle the projector.

yes, and niether worked, thanks any way

PLEASE
check your lamp meter does it count every 2 hours like mine?

I have similar results. I don't let my cable box do any scaling, if the network broadcasts in 1080i then it looks best to send that to the PJ. If the broadcast is 720p it looks better sent out 720 but a lot of times I don't bother to switch it. If I let the cable box do any scaling the picture is good but not quite as sharp.

The blu ray player looks the best on 1080p. To me the difference is significant between the players 720p and 1080p output.

No color issues. The PJ was originally D65'd and I check periodically with DVE just to make sure it hasn't shifted too much since adding new equipment.

Interesting. My reply might be the same as others after the original post, so my apologies if that is the case. However, I am curious. Has any one output a full 1080p at Hz to this computer from a Blu-ray or HDDVD player? When I output at 60HZ from a computer, I have color issues. Like it can only handle 16bit (computer) color versus 24bit or 32bit (computer) color. When I drop it down to 24HZ its great. The same is true when hooked up to my new Sony 52W3000. Exact same issue.

PLEASE
check your lamp meter does it count every 2 hours like mine?

I had been getting 800-1000hrs on my bulbs in low mode. The bulb I'm using now I decided to run on high for its entire life to see how it works out. I can say that the hours are accumulating very quickly in high mode. I suspect that in low power mode the counter logs 1 hour for every two that it is on, and in high mode it accounts for every hour. If this stands to be true than it is safe to say 1600-2000hrs of life in low mode is not horrable. Cant wait to see what it gets in high mode. From some research I found that most bulbs were designed to work best and last longest in high mode. So far no flickers like I had got in low mode. BTW this is my main display, used every day, on my fourth bulb just a month shy of three years.

Let us know how high mode works out. My hd72 is still going great although I don't have near as many hours as you do.

Let us know how high mode works out. My hd72 is still going great although I don't have near as many hours as you do.

I'll post back here when the bulb fizzles out and give some more info, may be a while........then again maybe not:p

Where are you guys getting replacement bulbs? Sponsor here has them for $289 plus shipping. Is that the best deal? I would like to have a repl ready for mine as it is closing in on 800 hours and that is as long as the first one lasted.

Where are you guys getting replacement bulbs? Sponsor here has them for $289 plus shipping. Is that the best deal? I would like to have a repl ready for mine as it is closing in on 800 hours and that is as long as the first one lasted.

I'm getting around 1,000 hours in eco-mode which lasts about a year for me. I've been getting them off eBay, bulb only, for $189 shipped. I just put the new bulb into two different housings I have.

I've retired to the fact that I'm only going to get about 1,000 hours on the Optoma and refuse to send it in for out-of-warranty repair just to have the lamp driver replaced and end up having the same bulb-life issues. When I finally upgrade to 1080p, I'm switching back to InFocus.

Cheers,
Kermee

I'll post back here when the bulb fizzles out and give some more info, may be a while........then again maybe not:p


Well its a wrap...1123hrs, on high mode for its entire life. The bummer is it only lasted about six months. In eco mode with nearly the same amount of hours it will get very close to a year. I would say the hour counter is wrong and eco mode will give a longer life.

CRAAAPPPP! just the bulb is available? Wish I would have known that, just paid 320 for a replacement assembly:mad: Ah well live and learn. Trying to hold out for a 1080P LED DLP.

Well its a wrap...1123hrs, on high mode for its entire life. The bummer is it only lasted about six months. In eco mode with nearly the same amount of hours it will get very close to a year. I would say the hour counter is wrong and eco mode will give a longer life.

CRAAAPPPP! just the bulb is available? Wish I would have known that, just paid 320 for a replacement assembly:mad: Ah well live and learn. Trying to hold out for a 1080P LED DLP.

Seems to be a glut in the market for the OSRAM bulbs for the HD72 & compatible (which I find odd considering the relatively short life of these bulbs in the Optoma HD72's, etc.) They're now $138 NIB, without the housing assembly, on eBay. I'm thinking of stocking up if I decide not to dump the Optoma HD72 for an InFocus X10.

Cheers,
Kermee

Cool deal on Ebay. I was going to get one of the $195 repl bulbs here locally, but I can wait a couple of days. I have the original bulb and casing that came with mine so it should be a quick switch. Current bulb is at 1100 hours, which is about what I got out of first bulb.

This may seem like an odd question, but where do I find
the proof of purchase? I need to send my hd 72 in for warranty
work but need the proof of purchase. Is it a label on the retail
box? Or is it a invoice / receipt the proof of purchase?

Normally they just want your invoice.

Is the invoice come in the box when they ship it?

After only 3 years of use as a ceiling-mounted PJ, the HDMI port of my HD72 has stopped working. Does anyone have a service manual or electrical diagram?

Hi!
I had my hd72 for about 2 years.The lamp went out after 1600 hours(bright mode on).Back then I've purchased the 3 year warranty on it.I'm still waiting for the lamp to arrive.When the lamp went out,I got a new pj the same day HD20,somehow I had the feeling this warranty deal is going to take some time,I'm glad I did.Almost a month went by,no lamp yet.On the new pj there is no way I will buy any warranty to go thru BS.
Once I get the lamp,I guess I just keep the HD72 for backup.

Well,after 3 weeks of waiting for my lamp replacement I ended up calling the phone number I got from the ins.co to check the status on my lamp.Didn't get a straight answer,got transferred here and there up to one hour.Then I called back the insurance co again,and gave them hell about the nonsence.I was told that they reordered my lamp again and call the distributor 3 days later to check on the status on my lamp.Guess what?2 days later I've received my new lamp,wich is in my pj now and running very nice and bright.learned a lession here,I will not buy warranty again.

I had the same thing with my HD72 recently. In my case it was a ground loop issue caused by the fact that my projector is on a different circuit than the rest of my audio/video gear. The two ways I could get rid of it was to disconnect the coax running to my Dish ViP622 satellite receiver, or to break the ground on the power running to the HD72. Since disconnecting the satellite coax also meant I would lose my satellite TV, I chose to break the ground on the projector. Use a 3 prong to 2 prong "cheater plug" power adaptor to plug in the HD72 and see if the problem goes away. If you don't have a 3 prong to 2 prong power adaptor, maybe use an old extension cord and break the ground off that one. That way you'll still have an intact power cable in case that doesn't solve the problem. I'm not entirely sure what the risks are of not having a ground on the projector, but for me it was either live with the risks of no ground, or live with scrolling green/purple lines in my picture all the time. Hope that helps.

I registered solely so I could thank you for your great suggestion.

The color bars started just recently - and as it turns out, it was after I had just switched the cabling to the projector from my receiver (video) directly to my Dish Network DVR on YPbPr. I didn't notice it the first day, but the next day it was there.

I plugged the projector into a 2-prong adapter and now the color bars are gone!
Thank you so much for this suggestion!!

Glad someone revived this thread.

After nearly 5 years with my venerable HD72, I am almost nearly on the verge of beginning to think about, maybe, possibly replacing it with a 1080p DLP (I'm typing this at work... my projector doesn't know anything about this.)

Have any of the rest of you owners, or former owners, done the same? And, if so, did you make a choice that has satisfied you as much as your HD72?

I'm wondering specifically about things like: Fan dBs, lumens, contrast. For me the HD72, while it has been a really great projector, was really pushing at the lower boundaries of what I can live with. i.e., I wouldn't want any <more> noise, I wouldn't want any <less> brighness, and I want at least the same black levels and contrast that I'm currently experiencing.

What choices have some of you made, and are you happy with them?

Thanks.

- s.west

p.s. Do you think I should start a new thread? Or has someone already done it and I missed it?

I'm still plugging along with the HD72 and I have the extra bulb that came with it when I bought it. I am interested in what others have upgraded to but after thinking about it the 72 is still working great. I don't notice the fan noise though and mine is still very bright, black levels are just OK but contrast is nice. Tom had tuned my PJ when I bought it and it still looks great.

I am in the same boat here. Had mine almost 5 yrs now. On last bulb so I am good for another 7 - 10 mos. Just curious what others are going to.

I have two HD72's that have given me great service since 2006. The Mitsubishi HC4000 is a great 1080P replacement for the Optoma. My son has one and it rocks for about half the price I paid for the HD72 in '06. The upgrade is subtle, as the HD72 is still a great unit.

We moved to a rental where using the HD72 wasn't practical, so I sold it on ebay. I hope the new owner likes it. It was a great PJ once I had the lamp driver replaced. The bulb that was in it at almost 3100 hours. Still worked, but once in a while it would go black and need a hard power cycle / cool off before it would work again.

Got a Panny 50gt25 plasma incoming as our new HT TV. Hope it treats us as well as the Optoma did.