I start to wonder if my unit is defective. Most of you seem to be happy with the PQ, but mine seems to be plagued by the non smooth color gradient in very bright and very dark scenes. I just watched the Army of Darkness last night, and it was pretty bad. It's like watching on a 256 color monitor at times. I see these problems with 480p, 480i output, and on some TV programs with HDMI or Svideo outputs. Shall I exchange for a different unit?

List all of your video settings for each type of input, model numbers of equipment you're using, how each piece is connected to the monitor, and, if possible, screen shots.

What you're describing seems more like a problem with your external electronics, namely macroblocking.

TJ,

Tell me where to look for this info. and I will be happy to post it up on the forum for everyone's reference. Maybe we will begin to see some trends if everyone posts up their specs.

BTW, Just watched the new War of the Worlds DVD tonight and it looked pretty darn good too. ( I figured it might be another good one besides Batman Begins to watch/look for PQ issues because of all of the dark scenes. )

Cheers! :D


Well the software/firmware is in the setup menu. As for components you need a flash light and you need to look inside the back of the TV. The panel number is on the upper right. There is also a PC board number in the top center. I will look at mine later. Actually I have already posted those 2 earlier in the thread.

Dumb question time: Is there some sort of break-in procedure for Plasma screens? I remember my brother buying a Sony HDTV a few years back and leaving it on for 24 hours or so, so that the screen can "break in"

I read the burn-in FAQ thread, but that seems to deal only with cases of actual picture burn in.

Please don't kill me! Plasma noob here.

Has anyone run AVIA or DVE on these plasmas yet? I'm getting my plasma on sunday, and I was wondering if I should order AVIA or DVE, any suggestions? If I don't get them before I get the plasma, does anyone have specific recommendations on what to set contrast, brightness, etc.. to on these sets?

Dumb question time: Is there some sort of break-in procedure for Plasma screens? I remember my brother buying a Sony HDTV a few years back and leaving it on for 24 hours or so, so that the screen can "break in"

I read the burn-in FAQ thread, but that seems to deal only with cases of actual picture burn in.

Please don't kill me! Plasma noob here.

In the burn in FAQ thread there is a link to a panasonic break in method, don't remember which page it was on, but I remember reading it.

List all of your video settings for each type of input, model numbers of equipment you're using, how each piece is connected to the monitor, and, if possible, screen shots.

What you're describing seems more like a problem with your external electronics, namely macroblocking.

Here are my setups:

DVD player: Sampo 681P, tried the 480P component out and 480I component out. Both have this non-smooth color shades (patches, color edges) issues especially in dark scenes. I am using the MIT component cable, bought from Crutchfield 6-7 years ago.

HD box: Moto DVR DCT3412I, running HDMI cable (Comcast supplied), also tried Monster DVI-HDMI cable on my old DVI DVR before Comcast swapped it out. Also running the S video to Maxent via Monster cable.

Any thoughts, inputs are appreciated! Thanks.

Here's some info I found. (Is this still accurate?)

Plasma Break-In

Like a fine new automobile, the performance of a plasma TV can be optimized by allowing a break-in period. By properly following these simple break-in instructions, you should be rewarded with long-term enjoyment of your plasma TV.



Plasma phosphors are most susceptible to image retention in the first hundred hours of use. The panel becomes considerably less sensitive to burn-in after this period.



Very often, televisions, including plasma, are shipped from the factory with the contrast control at a high setting to provide a bright picture under typical dealer showroom lighting conditions. In your home, the room light levels are usually one half or less than that in retail showrooms. The contrast control may need to be lowered in your home for comfortable contrast levels that do

not induce eye strain.



When the plasma is initially installed, videophiles say it is best to do the following:

· Make sure the display is in a viewing mode (aspect ratio) that completely

fills the screen (there are often three or more settings from which to

· choose). The panel is shipped in this condition, in what is called the

“Just” mode.

· Turn down the picture control (contrast) to 50% or less.

· Briefly engage the 4:3 mode to confirm the side bars are set to mid-gray

(there is usually an adjustment in the Set Up menu that takes the

sidebars from black to gray) to minimize the chance of burn-in.

· Return the set to a “full screen” (Just, Zoom, Full) position during the

first hundred hours of use.

· During the first hundred hours of use it is best not to view the same

channel for extended periods. This should prevent channel logos and

other fixed images found on some channels from being retained.

· Avoid any static images (video games, computer images, DVD title

screens, etc.) during the hundred-hour break-in.





After the hundred-hour break-in period, during the next nine-hundred hours:

· Continue to retain the picture setting at 50% or less.

· Limit the use of 4:3 aspect ratio mode (traditional picture size that does

not fill the entire screen) to 15% of viewing time.

· Limit the use of static images (computer, video games, etc.) to less than

10% of viewing time.



After one-thousand viewing hours, panels are much less likely to experience image burn-in.



Link to info here -> http://www.panasonic.com/consumer_electronics/pressroom/cont2.asp?Filter=12&cont_id=822

Here's some info I found. (Is this still accurate?)

· Briefly engage the 4:3 mode to confirm the side bars are set to mid-gray

(there is usually an adjustment in the Set Up menu that takes the sidebars from black to gray) to minimize the chance of burn-in.The Maxent MX-50X3 does not have this option, so it doesn't apply.

Limit the use of 4:3 aspect ratio mode (traditional picture size that does not fill the entire screen) to 15% of viewing time.

· Limit the use of static images (computer, video games, etc.) to less than 10% of viewing time.Impossible for me. 4:3 to less than 15% of the time is nearly impossible for me. No Xbox for 1000 hours of use? Not gonna happen. :-\ Then again, with the Xbox High-Def kit, the games fill up the entire screen.

I've pretty much decided to keep the Maxent. I just can't go back to the 36" CRT - no matter how nice it is (plus, it's heavy as crap to move back!) If the courts or the ex complain, well, my GF bought it (her name is on the receipt!) and I'm just using it 'till she moves in the house...

Now to go to BB on Friday and try for the PM to the price drop from last week....can't go today since my car is in the shop. :(

The Maxent MX-50X3 does not have this option, so it doesn't apply.




So the Maxent's sidebars are always black?

Also, in 4:3 mode, is there a zoom option that only stretches the sides of the picture to fit the screen? (without skewing the middle)

I saw it off the computer myself, at 2 different best buy's.

Anyway, just to clarify - the Maxents can still be ordered , because they still have stock in their wearhouses.

So the SKU still shows up in the system, but in the status, it says deleted , which means that Best Buy is not getting any more of the Maxents (after they sell whats in the wearhouses right now)

So the Maxent's can still be purchased, as I did purchase mine last night. But I'm wondering why Best Buy will no longer have them after the current stock.

And for reference it is the 50x3, which was due to be sold from 10/28/05 to 10/28/06 (also from the computer screen) with SKU of 7335485

If anyone's going back to Best Buy - or if anyone works there - just ask them the status of the SKU - maybe its a regional thing? (I'm in Houston) :confused:

I am in Orlando, FL and the computer here says its deleted also. I ordered and recieved mine and like it very much.



On another note: I cant get my computer to talk to the set via RS232. If I connect and type "at" enter I get OK. But then most of the keys on my keyboard don't work. Anyone have any idea why this is??

Check out the CNET video review for the Xbox 360. The plasma in the background looks ALOT like the Maxent.

Can't post the review since i had to re-register and I don't have enough posts yet

Check out the CNET video review for the Xbox 360. The plasma in the background looks ALOT like the Maxent.

Can't post the review since i had to re-register and I don't have enough posts yet

I think that is the 42X3.

Background:
NICE FEATURE TO FOLLOW:

I haven't seen anyone comment much on the serial connection. So, I grabbed my laptop and trusty RS232 cable and plugged in. Setup Hyperterminal per the manual, and was immediately talking to the unit. Be sure to set local echo to ON as the Maxent does not echo typed characters. Anyway, I tried out all the commands and this is what I found:

The Reading of Contrast, Brightness, Color, Tint and Sharpness do not work. Contrast, Brightness and Color read 000, no matter where you set them. Tint may work, but it is scaled 1 to 100 instead of -50 to 50. Sharpness is supposedly scaled 1 to 100, but my sharpness setting of 1 read as 60.

Now the better news. All the other commands seem to work. Pretty cool to mute or change the volume from the laptop. Will make for a nice HT control with something like CQC. Also of interest is that the unit displays an IR code when you use the remote while connected serially. It is in Hex, but I don't know if it would translate directly into a CCF like with a pronto.

The best news... The individual R-G-B Gain and Bias settings work great and appear to work independent of the color, tint, etc....I recorded my settings which I assumed are factory set, jacked around the color, contrast, brightness, tint settings, and re-read the settings and they had not changed. But, boy do they make a difference to the picture when I changed them. I randomly set R-Gain to 800 (1 to 999 scale), and had an all red picture :) So, for someone who has Avia or VE, a laptop and a serial cable, you should be able to really tune in the colors and greyscale. For those interested, my factory settings are:

R-Gain = 282
B-Gain = 307
G-Gain = 333

R-Bias = 453
B-Bias = 418
G-Bias = 448

It would be interesting to see what everyone else's is....

Robert


I tried today to connect my laptop, but couldn't get anything. My keyboard wouldn't let me type in any letters except "a". I could get "at" and the monitor responds with "ok", but then I can't type anymore letters.

Could you walk me trough the steps to gain access to the monitor? Include your settings if you would.

I tried following the Manual and that just didn't help.

...If the courts or the ex complain, well, my GF bought it....(
You may remember me as the court reporter, and I'll be relaying this site to the judge on Monday...thanks for the info!!!
:)

FYI

If you change to RGB input you can access the FULL WHITE option from the setup menu.

I am in Orlando, FL and the computer here says its deleted also. I ordered and recieved mine and like it very much.



On another note: I cant get my computer to talk to the set via RS232. If I connect and type "at" enter I get OK. But then most of the keys on my keyboard don't work. Anyone have any idea why this is??
You need to enable echo in order for the screen to reproduce what you are typing on the keyboard.

You need to enable echo in order for the screen to reproduce what you are typing on the keyboard.

I don't need the tv to show what I'm typing, if thats what you mean. I mean my computer screen shows no charaters at all, it will only let me type "at". Is there somewhere i can read about how to do this?

Type in ATE1. That turns ECHO on and you will be able to see the input from your keyboard on your pc screen. ATE0 turns Echo off. AT is the attention command telling your pc what follows is a command not data. Hope that's right. Been awhile.

FYI

If you change to RGB input you can access the FULL WHITE option from the setup menu.


I'm not sure i understand you, can you elaborate?

I tried nyc, nj area zip codes and none of these BB stores have it. Same is the case with 42x3 at costco. Please post your zip if you have seen one in this area.

Type in ATE1. That turns ECHO on and you will be able to see the input from your keyboard on your pc screen. ATE0 turns Echo off. AT is the attention command telling your pc what follows is a command not data. Hope that's right. Been awhile.

Thanks I will try that tomorrow. Will post outcome.

I changed a bunch of picture settings for my mx-50x3. However, after the power is off for a certain period, all settings get reset to factory default. Did I miss any thing to save the settings or this maxent is designed to be that? Any one has similar experience?

I tried nyc, nj area zip codes and none of these BB stores have it. Same is the case with 42x3 at costco. Please post your zip if you have seen one in this area.
I just picked mine up at the West Paterson, NJ Best Buy. They have one on display, and had to order mine because there were none left in stock.

Type in ATE1. That turns ECHO on and you will be able to see the input from your keyboard on your pc screen. ATE0 turns Echo off. AT is the attention command telling your pc what follows is a command not data. Hope that's right. Been awhile.

Well this did not work. It excepts the "ate1" and responds "OK", but that is it. It still wont except any other comands. Is there a how to somewhere?

Try +ate1. If that doesn't work I'm out of ideas.

Well I'm having no sucess with the rs232 port. It seems that the first letter typed has to be "at" and then it will let me type anything I want. But if I string together "at" and REA:PWR I just get ERROR messages. I guess I need to know how this thing works. I will contact Maxent about it

Anybody got some good color settings for HDMI???

I have a few questions for you guys:

I ordered Digital Cable from Cablivision. The box I received was a Scientific Atlanta Explorer 4200HD.

1. How come even the channels that are labeled HD, do not show full screen? (Black bars on either side). The only channel that currently shows full screen is Starz HD. All other HBO, CBS, NBC etc.. look like they are in HD, but I get black bars.

2. I tried using the Stretch and Zoom modes on the digital cable box, but when I stretch, the movie on Starz HD would also stretch and I would lose a few inches of screen on either side. When I do zoom, the channels lose a LOT of information (ie. the score panel during football/hockey games and such.) I'm lost as to what to do in order to view all channels in full screen mode. The digital cable box has the following Picture Format settings: Upconvert 1, Upconvert 2, Fixed, and Pass-Through. (Fixed is the only one that offers Stretch mode).

3. Do I need to purchase a seperate device that will allow me to view 100% of the picture, in full screen, without cutting off parts of the screen as Zoom and Stretch do?

HBO HD should fill the screen during all movies, but just because the channel is labeled "HD" does not mean that the content is actually HD. Your network feeds show mostly SD programming, except for the "prime time" shows.... CSI, ER, Numbers...ect. If you set your box to variable the box will format the screen for you, SD will get black bars and HD feeds will fill the screen. If you are looking for all programming to fill the screen you will have to match the zoom level to the broadcast level...SD vs HD.

If you are looking for all programming to fill the screen you will have to match the zoom level to the broadcast level...SD vs HD.
How can I manipulate the zoom feature? The box only has one Zoom option, and I don't have a way to tell it how far to zoom in/out.

I'm not sure i understand you, can you elaborate?
If you switch to the RGB inputs, a bunch of settings not available on other inputs are available. One of these is FULL WHITE, which will blank out your display to cure some burn-in problems I imagine. Switch to RGB input and see what I mean.

If you switch to the RGB inputs, a bunch of settings not available on other inputs are available. One of these is FULL WHITE, which will blank out your display to cure some burn-in problems I imagine. Switch to RGB input and see what I mean.

What is the RGB input? Is that the input that you'd hook up a computer to, if you wanted to use this as a computer monitor?

What other settings are available?

What is the RGB input? Is that the input that you'd hook up a computer to, if you wanted to use this as a computer monitor?

What other settings are available?
yes, that's the input, slide down the bottom remote cover and hit the RGB button to switch to it.

Power Save settings are on that input too, but you also get that on HDMI.

Well after two weeks, I still cannot solve the PQ issues (mainly unsmooth color shade change). I think I will return the TV. Now question: shall I try a second unit or not?

playing CS:source on it 1366x7678. no real noticable tearing or ghosting. game doesn't play as good as my desktop running a 9800 pro. this is running an AIW 8500DV and using a wireless mouse.

completely playable.


looks real nice 50" wide!



-armus


how were you able to get a 1366x768 resolution for your video card. I have a 9500 pro and cant get that resolution at all...

If it is an nvidia card you can do a custom resolution.

i have an ati video card

how were you able to get a 1366x768 resolution for your video card. I have a 9500 pro and cant get that resolution at all...

hmmm... have you tried the latest drivers?

-armus

Well the Maxent was returned tonight to BB, no restocking fee, which I know some were worried about.

After 2 weeks of comparing to my ED panny the Maxent just could not compete, yes even on HD content.

how were you able to get a 1366x768 resolution for your video card. I have a 9500 pro and cant get that resolution at all...

I have used a 9800 pro card w/ powerstrip settings to get the resolution.

I also just made a computer w/ 7800 gt card and i attached it to the maxent. It looks pretty good w/ no tearing or anything on cod2 and hl2.

Well I'm having no sucess with the rs232 port. It seems that the first letter typed has to be "at" and then it will let me type anything I want. But if I string together "at" and REA:PWR I just get ERROR messages. I guess I need to know how this thing works. I will contact Maxent about it

I answered your PM, but I'll put the info here too....

Unless you turn local echo on, you will not see what you type. So, even though the Maxent is receiving the characters, you won't see them on your laptop/PC monitor.

So, you should be able to just type REA:PWR and see a response. You won't see REA:PWR on your laptop screen/PC monitor. Be sure you turn caps on, as the characters must be in uppercase.

Robert

Thanks I got your PM. I will try with different cables. Post back results.

yes, that's the input, slide down the bottom remote cover and hit the RGB button to switch to it.

Power Save settings are on that input too, but you also get that on HDMI.

that's kind of weird that you can't get to these functions over component. I don't understand the logic behind that.

HBO HD should fill the screen during all movies, but just because the channel is labeled "HD" does not mean that the content is actually HD. Your network feeds show mostly SD programming, except for the "prime time" shows.... CSI, ER, Numbers...ect. If you set your box to variable the box will format the screen for you, SD will get black bars and HD feeds will fill the screen. If you are looking for all programming to fill the screen you will have to match the zoom level to the broadcast level...SD vs HD.
Just wanted to correct myself that the box does not have a Variable setting, but instead it's called Pass-Through. Is that the same thing?

I've been keeping it on Fixed/Stretch so far in order to prevent the black bar burn in since the set is new.

Is there any device I can install between my Cable Box and the TV set that would convert all channels to show in full screen mode?

I'm about ready to buy a wall mount but wanted to confirm wether or not the Sanus VMPL mount will work with this tv. Anyone know first hand?

I have used a 9800 pro card w/ powerstrip settings to get the resolution.

I'm new to using powerstrip...what settings are you using in order for it to work. cause I still can't get 1366x768 to work.

I'm new to using powerstrip...what settings are you using in order for it to work. cause I still can't get 1366x768 to work.

hi
im not by any means an expert on it but
when it is running right click the powerstrip icon in the taskbar, go to display profiles,
configure. Go to advanced timing options, custom resolutions. From there you can edit the pixel height and width as well as other settings.
the settings i used are PowerStrip timing parameters(Set it to negative polarity as well).

1366x768=1366,69,143,212,768,1,3,23,85383,7

Generic timing details for 1366x768:
HFP=69 HSW=143 HBP=212 kHz=48 VFP=1 VSW=3 VBP=23 Hz=60

Just copy the timings and paste them in the custom resolutions menu.

[QUOTE=jeremyhelling]Haha... glad it was funny to you too.

If you're going to Circuit city just tell them you need a DVI/HDMI adapter to go from your STB to your PDP and that way you'll know you get the right part.

If you want audio you'll need to run it separate as neither HDMI or component will carry sound (which I'm sure you're already aware of)


...sure you know what you are talking about becase HDMI does both AUDIO and VIDEO....do some more homework! :D :D :D

still can't get powerstrip to work. all i get is a blue screen when i try to switch the resolution

[QUOTE=jeremyhelling]Haha... glad it was funny to you too.

If you're going to Circuit city just tell them you need a DVI/HDMI adapter to go from your STB to your PDP and that way you'll know you get the right part.

If you want audio you'll need to run it separate as neither HDMI or component will carry sound (which I'm sure you're already aware of)


...sure you know what you are talking about becase HDMI does both AUDIO and VIDEO....do some more homework! :D :D :D

You're 100% correct. HDMI does indeed do both video as well as audio.

However, what we were talking about in our conversation was HDMI/DVI adapters. DVI is video ONLY and no audio. So, for what he's looking to do, neither of those will run audio. I suggest you do your own homework before inserting your foot into your mouth.

I'm about ready to buy a wall mount but wanted to confirm wether or not the Sanus VMPL mount will work with this tv. Anyone know first hand?


I used a silver Snaus VMPL and it worked great (<$100 from AV-Clearance on ebay).
The tilt mechanism is very handy for connecting inputs.


Good luck,
Token

I used a silver Snaus VMPL and it worked great (<$100 from AV-Clearance on ebay).
The tilt mechanism is very handy for connecting inputs.


Good luck,
Token

I second that. I also used the Sanus VMPL mount with no issues on the Maxent. The tilt feature does rock !!

Cheers! :D

To those who used the Sanus VMPL mount, could you measure the size of the part that actually mounts to the wall? I have a 6" wide indentation on the wall I'd like to mount my Maxent on. I need to make sure the mount will bridge the gap and give me sufficient mounting holes on each side, if that makes sense.

Thanks.
Brian

To those who used the Sanus VMPL mount, could you measure the size of the part that actually mounts to the wall? I have a 6" wide indentation on the wall I'd like to mount my Maxent on. I need to make sure the mount will bridge the gap and give me sufficient mounting holes on each side, if that makes sense.

Thanks.
Brian

Bridging a 6" gap will be no problem...There are plenty of mounting holes:

https://www.sanus.com/pdf/manuals/visionmount/VMPLins_081705.pdf

For those running HDMI out to DVI in on the Maxent are you able to adjust the aspect ratio? I know with the HDMI input you're locked to an aspect but I'm wondering about doing HDMI/DVI. Thanks.

For those running HDMI out to DVI in on the Maxent are you able to adjust the aspect ratio? I know with the HDMI input you're locked to an aspect but I'm wondering about doing HDMI/DVI. Thanks.

The Maxent has only HDMI as digital input, not DVI input. With HDMI or DVI out to HDMI in on the TV, you can only do 16:9 and 4:3.

Anyway, since I wasn't able to solve the color shade banding problem. I finally returned the Maxent for the Zenith with about 200 dollars more after the rebate.

I purchased the same mount from them. I know you can't post anything to do with prices.


[DIRCET LINKS ARE NOT ALLOWED- FATWALLET IS NOT ALLOWED-THANKS]

I have had similar issues with the Toshiba SD-K850SU and Samsung DVD-HD841 like you had with the Samsung DVD-HD850. Toshiba was an early adopter of the 480p standard and released players way back (1999) without MacroVision compatibility for the progressive (480p/525p) output. It seems that since these players are upscaling units, I am starting to believe that neither Toshiba nor Samsung are MacroVision compliant for the component 480p output (they are, however, HDCP compliant for HDMI, etc.). In other words, their focus is on the Hi-Def output, and the manufacturers may not have been too concerned about the lower resolution output that the players are not marketed for. I hope to try the Toshiba SD-K750 (non-HDMI, progressive player) within the next week or so.

The Pioneer Elite DV-45A works flawlessly over component at 480p (it is MacroVision compliant).

I'm done with these cheapie DVD players. Tried the progressive only Toshiba SD-K750 over component with the same issues as the other Toshiba and Samsung players. If anyone else has a similar problem, please post the make and model. I'd like to keep track of which DVD models exhibit the component shake (probably MacroVision issue).

I do not have an hdtv.

I want one.

I have read the entire internet (;-) looking at info a reviews.

I do not want a projection TV's bulk. I want a flat display.

If not the Maxent 50X3 then what?

TIA

The Maxent has only HDMI as digital input, not DVI input. With HDMI or DVI out to HDMI in on the TV, you can only do 16:9 and 4:3.

Anyway, since I wasn't able to solve the color shade banding problem. I finally returned the Maxent for the Zenith with about 200 dollars more after the rebate.

Please let me know if you post a comparison based on your experience with the Zenith - that was the other promising set when I was viewing the Maxent.

THanks.

why dont you go ask in the official dozen page thread..

why dont you go ask in the official dozen page thread..

Cuz that thread is filled up with geeks comparing serial numbers to panasonic parts and measuring arcane nonsense like black levels and all that.

I want real world people, not on LSD or hopelessly geeked out beyond repair, to tell me if they think there is a better value in 50" flat panel displays than the maxent 50" plasma.

Thanks!

bump

Cuz that thread is filled up with geeks comparing serial numbers to panasonic parts and measuring arcane nonsense like black levels and all that.

I want real world people, not on LSD or hopelessly geeked out beyond repair, to tell me if they think there is a better value in 50" flat panel displays than the maxent 50" plasma.

Thanks!

Nice attitude, you will not be long for this site. :(

Nice attitude, you will not be long for this site. :(

Who cares? I just want to know if there is a better value in flat screens in the 50" size and then I have no further use for this site.

Just trying to be honest, not make friends or enemies.

Cuz that thread is filled up with geeks comparing serial numbers to panasonic parts and measuring arcane nonsense like black levels and all that.

I want real world people, not on LSD or hopelessly geeked out beyond repair, to tell me if they think there is a better value in 50" flat panel displays than the maxent 50" plasma.

Thanks!

well then..

i think you want the samsung 50" samsung plasmas, they are AMAZING, have the best colors by far... no clay face or anything. DNIe is also the best thing to ever exist

AVS'ers.. ;) ;) ;) ;)

Nope no better value. Unless you buy at Costco. Then the value Plasma is the Vizio.
There is a Vizio thread here on that TV as well. The advantage to costco is your TV is GUARentEEd as long as you remain a member. No risk no extended warranties need be purchased.

i do know of what you mean around here. This is an enthusiasts forum. Most here are over the top when it comes to video as would be expected and have all or nothing taste and attitude. You do not need to spend top dollar to enjoy a nice picture. If you are not anal about minutea you will find a great Plasma at aven better prices. But I would get it at Costco where the is no risk buying and owning.

BTW I don't work at Costco, im not a "videophile" Just an avg Joe who would like to help those who just want a decent TV without all the tech talk and break the bank prices..

I have a Maxent and am extremily satisfied. But then again I am not a video (or anything) connesuer..(can't even spell the word).

Just unboxed my 50X3 last night. PQ from both HD cable box and DVD through component inputs is very dark at 50 Bright, 50 contract, 20 color, etc... It;s barely acceptable at 80 contract and 50 bright. Don't want to push it during its first hours of life. I'm getting a calibration disk but until then any advice? If I can't get it better it'll have to go back and I'll be back to waiting until I can afford the Panny 8UK.

Just unboxed my 50X3 last night. PQ from both HD cable box and DVD through component inputs is very dark at 50 Bright, 50 contract, 20 color, etc... It;s barely acceptable at 80 contract and 50 bright. Don't want to push it during its first hours of life. I'm getting a calibration disk but until then any advice? If I can't get it better it'll have to go back and I'll be back to waiting until I can afford the Panny 8UK.

FWIW, here are my most recent settings for my SA8300HD STB (Component 1) and my 4 year old Kenwood (progressive scan) DVD player (Component 2). For the DVD player settings, I used the THX Optimizer because I do not have any calibration disks.

Setting STB DVD

Contrast 55 60
Brightness 80 76
Color 31 41
Tint -9 +8
Sharpness 1 30
Noise Reduction High High
Color Temp. Warm Cool

While I seem to tinker a bit with these settings, I am very pleased with the PQ for both HD and DVD on this set. Great value in my opinion.

I would be very curious to know other people's settings who also use the 50X3 with a SA8300HD STB.

Just unboxed my 50X3 last night. PQ from both HD cable box and DVD through component inputs is very dark at 50 Bright, 50 contract, 20 color, etc... It;s barely acceptable at 80 contract and 50 bright. Don't want to push it during its first hours of life. I'm getting a calibration disk but until then any advice? If I can't get it better it'll have to go back and I'll be back to waiting until I can afford the Panny 8UK.

OK, couple of questions:

What component cables are you using and what lengths are they?
Are you routing through a stereo receiver or are you directly hooking them up to the Maxent via component?
Are your power cables routed directly next to your video cables?

I know that I personally had a problem with a defective 15’ AudioQuest component cables that I purchased from BB. As soon as I switched them out, I had a bright picture again at those settings.

Hope that helps! :D

Anyone have a Pioneer Elite DV-59AVi that they can hook up via HDMI in Auto 2 mode? I'd like to hear a review on any macroblocking effects with this particular player.

Thanks.

Just unboxed my 50X3 last night. PQ from both HD cable box and DVD through component inputs is very dark at 50 Bright, 50 contract, 20 color, etc... It;s barely acceptable at 80 contract and 50 bright. Don't want to push it during its first hours of life. I'm getting a calibration disk but until then any advice? If I can't get it better it'll have to go back and I'll be back to waiting until I can afford the Panny 8UK.

i have my brightness and contrast set to 60 each, and it looks good. at 80 everything looks washed out and gray.

So far, loving this TV. I've been playing my xbox 360 with Project Gotham Racing 3 a lot and it performs flawlessly. The HD pics is beautiful but the standard could be better.

Compared to my Mits 62725 DLP, the HD pic is nicer but the standard def. on the Mits is a lot better. The mits seems to give me more vibrant colors but the Plasma is brighter. Perhaps it's just my settings......

Wow that's interesting. I think my Maxent looks better then any Hi-Def set I've seen on SD programming. FYI: I'm using a Huges Tivo connected via S-Video

4:3 SD really isn't that "great", IMHO. It certainly isn't "bad", though. I've grown fairly accustomed to watching content stretched or zoomed (1), so as to not have the black bars. But I find myself dowbnloading shows using BT and playing them on my modded Xbox - they're not quite HD quality, but they're full wide-scren, and better than SD. :cool:

Just unboxed my 50X3 last night. PQ from both HD cable box and DVD through component inputs is very dark at 50 Bright, 50 contract, 20 color, etc... It;s barely acceptable at 80 contract and 50 bright. Don't want to push it during its first hours of life. I'm getting a calibration disk but until then any advice? If I can't get it better it'll have to go back and I'll be back to waiting until I can afford the Panny 8UK.

Thanks Rick and Sharky for your suggestions but still no luck. As for suggestions on settings for brightness, contrast, etc, I've tried my own eyes, the settings near what Rick suggested as well as previous posters and still the picture is dark. The Nip/Tuck I recorded on the PVR STB is nearly unwatchable.

As for cabling, I'm using the component cables that the cable company supplied. They are about 5 ft long. They have been tested. I have a HD Mitsibubishi 65" RP in the basement where this STB and cables worked fine. I was also careful to run all electric cables well clear of the component cables.

Two more things to try tonight: 1) S video in the STB signal as a test; 2) try calibration disk that should arrive today.

Don't get me wrong about my original comment about the Panny. I WANT the MX-50X3 to work.

Anyone worried about the heat this unit puts off? I notice that the back top 6 inches are very warm but the rest of the unit is cool.

I've been playing with it all weekend. Only main complaint so far is SD (as it's been mentioned a ton of times). Once I get the OTA up and running hopefully the locals improve.

To those who are complaining about the SD PQ I would be very curious if this is your first digital TV set or are you going from a current digital TV to this PDP?

Anyone worried about the heat this unit puts off? I notice that the back top 6 inches are very warm but the rest of the unit is cool.

The fact the case is warm is probably good news...It's dissipating heat off the heat sinks like it should. I still would have liked to have had a small fan blowing across to remove it a little quicker. Price you pay for having a quiet unit.

I've been playing with it all weekend. Only main complaint so far is SD (as it's been mentioned a ton of times). Once I get the OTA up and running hopefully the locals improve.

For the most part, I don't think SD performance is the Maxent's fault...I think any 50" LCD/Plasma will have its problems blowing up a junk signal. Judging from the wide variation of users experience with SD, it mostly comes down to source material, IMHO. I have some SD channels that look like HD while a very few are almost unwatchable (24 hour religious station). But for the most part, the picture far exceeds my 27" JVC CRT.

I agree. I was thinking more of the people having issues are coming from an analog TV and don't realize the trade off to digital TVs. HD is amazing and will leave anything you've ever seen on TV standing in the dust. The same SD you've been watching for years now and have adapted to watching will look worse though... this is a given. I think too many people expect MTV to look 5x better and don't know that going from a tube TV that it will look worse. For such a large digital display this monitor shows better SD running S-Video than any other digital TV that I've seen with my own eyes. Those that think it looks terrible wouldn't be happy with ANY digital TV on SD would be my guess.

To those who are complaining about the SD PQ I would be very curious if this is your first digital TV set or are you going from a current digital TV to this PDP?

I upgraded from a 42" Toshiba projection.

And to be honest, I'm not comparing apples/apples anyway. I went from HD Cable > HD Directtv. I'm sure some tweaking and the addition of the OTA in the attic should help the channels I have a problem with.

Thanks Rick and Sharky for your suggestions but still no luck. As for suggestions on settings for brightness, contrast, etc, I've tried my own eyes, the settings near what Rick suggested as well as previous posters and still the picture is dark. The Nip/Tuck I recorded on the PVR STB is nearly unwatchable.

As for cabling, I'm using the component cables that the cable company supplied. They are about 5 ft long. They have been tested. I have a HD Mitsibubishi 65" RP in the basement where this STB and cables worked fine. I was also careful to run all electric cables well clear of the component cables.

Two more things to try tonight: 1) S video in the STB signal as a test; 2) try calibration disk that should arrive today.

Don't get me wrong about my original comment about the Panny. I WANT the MX-50X3 to work.

Chuck,

In reading my earlier reply to you I failed to make an important point about the settings I listed. The STB settings I listed are for watching HD content via my Component #1 connection. When watching SD content, I use my S Video connection. When viewing SD, if I use the Component #1 connection and the settings for my STB that I listed in my earlier post, I too get a picture that is "too dark". I'll provide you with my S Video settings later (at the office now). As others have said, the picture quality varies greatly for viewing SD content. But, the HD and DVD content look very nice :)

Rick

I upgraded from a 42" Toshiba projection.

And to be honest, I'm not comparing apples/apples anyway. I went from HD Cable > HD Directtv. I'm sure some tweaking and the addition of the OTA in the attic should help the channels I have a problem with.

Keep in mind that DirecTV "downrezzs" their HD content quite a bit. Go to any satellite message board and do a search and you'll see. Most folks refer to it as "HD-Lite".

Is this a great site or what?

I found out that RobertMee lived nearby and tracked him down, he immediately invited me over to check out his new screen. That was all I need, I ordered mine last night.

I'm still happy with my decision to buy the Maxent, it's being delivered next Tuesday.

My problem is I now feel like I rushed through the process of picking out the HT sound and the DVD, plus I'm at a loss as to how to cable it up. Everything is being delivered on Tuesday, so it will be easy to make some swaps between now and then.

Time Warner is dropping off a SA8300 on Tuesday also, their rep told me that it would have the HDMI port enabled.

I bought a Toshiba SD-4980 upconvert DVD player that also has an HDMI port in addition to component, optical and coax outputs.

Finally I ordered a Yamaha HT in a box that features the HTR-5835 receiver which appears to have every conceivable port but no HDMI.

I'd be open to any suggestions for cabling these bad boys together. I haven't bought any cables yet. I did download all the manuals off the internet and will be plowing through them tonight and tomorrow.

I'm not adverse to upgrading the DVD player and receiver. I have about 500 invested in the two of them and wouldn't mind spending a bit more for a better match.

FWIW, I'm no audiophile and am about half deaf from a misspent youth anyway.

To those who are complaining about the SD PQ I would be very curious if this is your first digital TV set or are you going from a current digital TV to this PDP?


I wonder the same. I have a 65" RP CRT HDTV, and SD looks the same on it as it does on my Maxent. I've also seen SD on an RP LCD HDTV, and other RP CRT HDTVs. SD looks equally bad on all of them.

I don't think people are aware how bad SD can look on an HDTV, specifically a big one.

I am not experiencing any problems with the SD quality on mine with Time Warner HD8300 box. Since the cable channels below 100 are not digital the quality is not that great but the higher channels (Non-HD but I guess upconverted to 1080i) are execellent!
I have a 65" Mitsubishi rear projection and the SD quality is much worst on that TV. Note that my cable box is connected to the Maxent via HDMI which may yield a different result that going through component or Svideo.

Hey everyone, I just got the maxent last week, so far I am in love with it, and working on fine tuning all my devices.

I was wondering if anyone that has used powerstrip to get their custom resolution information could post the modeline settings. I use Linux on my PC and could use the modeline settings to configure X properly. I do not have a windows PC to run powerstrip myself.

Thanks for the help!

I'm still happy with my decision to buy the Maxent, it's being delivered next Tuesday.

My problem is I now feel like I rushed through the process of picking out the HT sound and the DVD, plus I'm at a loss as to how to cable it up. Everything is being delivered on Tuesday, so it will be easy to make some swaps between now and then.

Time Warner is dropping off a SA8300 on Tuesday also, their rep told me that it would have the HDMI port enabled.

I bought a Toshiba SD-4980 upconvert DVD player that also has an HDMI port in addition to component, optical and coax outputs.

Finally I ordered a Yamaha HT in a box that features the HTR-5835 receiver which appears to have every conceivable port but no HDMI.



Well, you have a delimma as the Maxent only has a single HDMI port, and your AV receiver doesn't switch HDMI.

Starting with audio, do you plan to solely use the Yamaha for sound and not the TV speakers? If so, then connect your DVD player and Cable Box to the Yamaha with optical toslink cables. You'll switch the sound source with the Yamaha. If you also want sound to the TV, then from the receiver run a set of RCA audio cables to the Maxent, assuming your receiver has an Audio Out for external amplifier and that it down converts the digital audio from the toslink connections to analog.

For video, you'll have to decide which source gets the HDMI. In either case you'll need only a single HDMI cable, and a component cable for the other. You'll just have to play around to see which offers the better picture. So far, from what I've heard, HDMI hasn't been a big improvement over component on this set.

One thing you might consider tho, is using component for the SA83000 and HDMI for the DVD player. The reason is that as many have noted, SD channels may look better on an s-video feed from the SA8300 than component or HDMI. But the SA8300 disables the s-video port if you connect it up with HDMI.

On the other hand, if you run HDMI from the Cable Box, you'll have audio to the TV as well, such that you could watch/listen to TV without turning on the Yamaha.

Decisions, decisions.....

I would probably invest in two toslink audio cables, one set of component, one HDMI, one s-video, and a couple of analog RCA (the standard red/white pair for audio if you happen to use s-video).

Robert

I upgraded from a 42" Toshiba projection.

And to be honest, I'm not comparing apples/apples anyway. I went from HD Cable > HD DIRECTV. I'm sure some tweaking and the addition of the OTA in the attic should help the channels I have a problem with.


I was using a DTV SD Tivo when I originally hooked up the Maxent (via S-Video).
SD content looked very good to me in this setup.

After upgrading to the HD Tivo from DIRECTV, I am extremely happy with the picture of the HD channels as well as the HD OTA locals.
It does appear to me that the SD channels didn't appear quite as good as with my old SD Direct Tivo via S-Video.
You can really notice the difference between the HD locals via OTA vs. SD locals via Satellite.

My only complaint thus far is the responsiveness of the HD Tivo, it is much slower than my old one.

Good luck ;)

Token

.

New Guy Questions....

I've been lurkin for a few days and have been researching the Maxent and Vizio. CNET has a decent review on the Vizio. Still waiting for them to post their review on the Maxent. Was told via email that it was in progress. Anyway....

Interested in folks opinions/experiences in deciding to go Maxent over the Vizio. I'm leaning this way as well and would like to hear from others that may have look at both devices.

Thanks

Pfkoss

New Guy Questions....

I've been lurkin for a few days and have been researching the Maxent and Vizio. CNET has a decent review on the Vizio. Still waiting for them to post their review on the Maxent. Was told via email that it was in progress. Anyway....

Interested in folks opinions/experiences in deciding to go Maxent over the Vizio. I'm leaning this way as well and would like to hear from others that may have look at both devices.

Thanks

Pfkoss

Never ever trust CNET reviews. CNET has been known to give good reviews to heavy advertisers.

I never looked at the Vizio, but I can tell you from expirience that the Maxent performs great.

The Vizio looked pretty good at Costco but I thought the black plastic frame/bezel was flimsy. It didn't seem to stay on very securley and felt a little on the cheap side. The Maxent had a better build quality in my opinion...plus as a Maxent owner you can tell which set's PQ I preferred.

Well, you have a delimma as the Maxent only has a single HDMI port, and your AV receiver doesn't switch HDMI.

snip

I would probably invest in two toslink audio cables, one set of component, one HDMI, one s-video, and a couple of analog RCA (the standard red/white pair for audio if you happen to use s-video).

Robert

Thanks for the help, again. I would have liked a reciever that switched HDMI, but they all seem to start at around a grand, which was more than I wanted to spend.

I got the yamaha without the dvd deck so I could get the DVD upconvert model as a component. I figure when the HD-DVD/Blueray dusts settles I'll upgrade.

I have posted a couple time regarding the problems I have been having with my Maxent. I am ready to exchange it for the Zenith Z50PX2D (for 100 bucks more). Any of you can share opinions in comparing the two? I talked to Best Buy, and they said what I described (color band) is intrinsically the scaler issue. It's not considered a defect. If I want to exchange for another Maxent set, I need to pay the current (full) price for it.

I have posted a couple time regarding the problems I have been having with my Maxent. I am ready to exchange it for the Zenith Z50PX2D (for 100 bucks more). Any of you can share opinions in comparing the two? I talked to Best Buy, and they said what I described (color band) is intrinsically the scaler issue. It's not considered a defect. If I want to exchange for another Maxent set, I need to pay the current (full) price for it.


Heres what I would do.....Open the back up stick a screwdriver in it then return it to BB and say its broken. And you will be another satisfied BB customer. :D


______________

"when the dogs need fresh water I just flush the toilet"

i noticed on some dvd's and hd content, when there are dark scenes, some of the dark parts seem splotchy(is that a word?).

in other words, some dark parts aren't quite 'blended' and show bands of different shades.

any solutions? i've pretty much accepted it. :confused:

-armus

i noticed on some dvd's and hd content, when there are dark scenes, some of the dark parts seem splotchy(is that a word?).

in other words, some dark parts aren't quite 'blended' and show bands of different shades.

any solutions? i've pretty much accepted it. :confused:

-armus

I think this is macroblocking.

i noticed on some dvd's and hd content, when there are dark scenes, some of the dark parts seem splotchy(is that a word?).

in other words, some dark parts aren't quite 'blended' and show bands of different shades.

any solutions? i've pretty much accepted it. :confused:

-armus

I have exactly the same problem. It's quite bad in certain scenes.
My local BB doesn't have this set on display. I compared other sets they have with the old Maxent (42 inch, VM something in model number). Of course the lighting etc in the store is different. All I can say is the 42 in bad Maxent they have on display reminds of my Maxent X3 at home. However I really had to look hard for the 'bands' in Panny. Pioneer or the Zenith. Since I see the bands quite often with various DVD and HD materials, I tend to believe it's something with the TV scalar rather than the source signal. Since the Zenith is on sale, with coupon and everything, it comes very close to the Maxent. I bought the Zenith. I just haven't found time to bring my Maxent back and pick up the Zenith yet. However I still hold a faint hope that someone will find the magic switch on the Maxent for me. :(

I think this is macroblocking.

Could you explain how did macroblocking result in this? In my preious reply, I tend to believe it's the TV scalar. I see this with both DVD and cable HD materials. It's like you need 1000 different color elements to show the gradient, but the TV has only 200, so you see the abrupt change in shade which forms color bands or patches (especially on face in dark scenes). I also have such problem with bright scenes such as sky or ocean shots.

I think this is macroblocking.

doing some research on google about this, the word seems to be that it's due to whatever device is feeding the display. in my case it's a old sony dvd player and a new Motorola HD cable box DVR.


i'm going to try to test this play playing a DVD off my pc hooked up the the plasma and see if there are any macroblocking going on. i'll report back later tonight.



-armus

Is there anyway outside of looking at maxent's "specs" for the TV, to find out the number of colors (16.7 million or 8 billion ) or the actual contrast ration (3000:1?)?

Maybe we should gather some $ together and give it to someone to take this bad boy apart and take a good look (and some photos) of the internal components.

I found it quite intriguing that I seem to have a different experience with my maxent than most of you posted here. Other than my problem with color banding, my unit doesn't seem to run too hot. It's been one for 3 hours, and I just touched it, on back top of the pannel, the left side is just warm enough, slightly higher than body temperature. The right side is a little warmer, probably 50 degree C to the touch. Maybe my set wasn't working hard enough to display a good image? :)

actually my set doesn't run that hot either. I don't get it. Maybe some have a different tolerance for heat? :D

Mine got so hot that I could have used it as a space heater..lol... It had ouch factor...as far as tolerance...look at my name...WILDLAND..as in firefighter, I think I know something about warmth :)

Just curious, did you have it installed in a confined area, say like an entertainment cabinet?

maybe mine not being hot does have something to do with it's poor PQ. Joke aside, I guess it does say something about the consistency of build quality.

Just wanted to comment about SD picture quality(that everyone seems to be complaining about) via S-video after watching the Duke vs. Indiana game tonight on ESPN.

It looked fantastic in its strecthed full screen glory! It honestly looked as good if not better than my DVDs. Makes me belive that SD channels/PQ issues definitely depend on the signal source and particular channel. It has nothing to do with the Maxent monitor.

Also, I have had no issues from macroblocking after solving my component cable problem and getting rid of my crappy upconvert Samsung 850 DVD player and going back to my prog. scan Yamaha. I also tend to believe it is a device issue and not a fault of the Maxent monitor.

Just my two cents from my own experience as I no longer have those problems.

Granted I am still tweaking the picture (will use Avia this weekend) and currently trying different cable manufacturers/configurations. I have already tried Audioquest and Monster cables and currently have RAM cables hooked up to the Maxent via HDMI (HD STB), Component (DVD), and S-video (STB SD). I have PureAV Silver series cables on order and will try them out next to see which I like best.

I say keep tweaking that picture/ trying different things until you find something you like.

Cheers!

I have exactly the same problem. It's quite bad in certain scenes.
My local BB doesn't have this set on display. I compared other sets they have with the old Maxent (42 inch, VM something in model number). Of course the lighting etc in the store is different. All I can say is the 42 in bad Maxent they have on display reminds of my Maxent X3 at home. However I really had to look hard for the 'bands' in Panny. Pioneer or the Zenith. Since I see the bands quite often with various DVD and HD materials, I tend to believe it's something with the TV scalar rather than the source signal. Since the Zenith is on sale, with coupon and everything, it comes very close to the Maxent. I bought the Zenith. I just haven't found time to bring my Maxent back and pick up the Zenith yet. However I still hold a faint hope that someone will find the magic switch on the Maxent for me. :(

Had the same problem with mine...among others
Red push on HDMI, when using 4:3/16:9 or PIP - "normal"
Component inputs sync issue

Returned to BB and bought a Panny - fixed :D

I found it quite intriguing that I seem to have a different experience with my maxent than most of you posted here. Other than my problem with color banding, my unit doesn't seem to run too hot. It's been one for 3 hours, and I just touched it, on back top of the pannel, the left side is just warm enough, slightly higher than body temperature. The right side is a little warmer, probably 50 degree C to the touch. Maybe my set wasn't working hard enough to display a good image? :)


You might have got a faulty unit. Exchange for a new one from BB and see if any improvements. Got mine today and has been running for 5 hours non-stop, the back panel is very hot indeed.

HDTV from Comcast cable box, both through HDMI and Component, looks fantastic. didn't notice any problem with the 'dark areas' (microblocking?)

DVD from SONY Progressive Scan player looks very good on "Finding Nimo". But having some problem of displaying the 2.35:1 (wider than 16:9) of "True Lies". I have a separate post asking help on that.


So far, I am very happy. The INHD Channels rock! PBS looks great!

For all those saying it's not that hot.......

The sides are cool as can be, it's only the top 5 inches that get real hot....the rest is ice cold.

I have checked mine multiple times after being on for 4-7 hours.
Mine is definitely warm but it's not too warm to leave my hand on it.
It is mounted on the wall of a 2 story great room so maybe that helps the heat rise.

It's too bad it doesn't have an internal temp sensor ;)

Token

Mine got so hot that I could have used it as a space heater..lol... It had ouch factor...as far as tolerance...look at my name...WILDLAND..as in firefighter, I think I know something about warmth :)"wildland" = "firefighter"? :confused: I don't get it. I dont' think anyone else does, either. :cool:

...Also, I have had no issues from macroblocking after solving my component cable problem and getting rid of my crappy upconvert Samsung 850 DVD player and going back to my prog. scan Yamaha. I also tend to believe it is a device issue and not a fault of the Maxent monitor.great. Just great. My Samsung 850 will be here tomorrow. :( Did you connect it via component or HDMI?

I have suggested in the past that everyone try and gather as many numbers as possible from the internal components, which may help us understand the difference in quality some ae experiencing (maybe some different internal components).

I had my maxent for a week. So far I'm very satisfied.
1) Temperature: My unit only gets warm after hours of watch. I tried to touch all around the border panels. It's the kind of warmth I feel very cozy. Maybe my room temperature is too low???
2) Get a flash light and peek through holes around upper right side of rear panel. I confirmed it's using Panny parts.
3) SD signal displays quite decent on 50" screen. So now I also watch SD on maxent. Before I was using composite cable to hook up with VCR. After change to s-video, the PQ gets better. For example, edges are clearer, color of small white text looks solid and uniform.
4) Hook up with my computer using VGA cable. It looks fantastic.
5) Went to local bestbuy several times to compare maxent with four other units they put side by side, up and down (LG, Samsung, toshiba, panny). Did various display adjustment on maxent to match others. I would say the PQ of maxent is not worse than any others if not better with my judgement. Samsung is the clear loser of the contest as the color is not as solid as other units.

I confirmed the part number in my maxent matches with the original post of this thread.

I have suggested in the past that everyone try and gather as many numbers as possible from the internal components, which may help us understand the difference in quality some ae experiencing (maybe some different internal components).

Anyone have any comments on which device (STB or DVD) should use the HDMI?

great. Just great. My Samsung 850 will be here tomorrow. :( Did you connect it via component or HDMI?

I had mine connected via component with the hack so it upconverts over component. I was using HDMI on my HD STB.

I think some others have had problems with the Samsung 850 too. Both 720p and 1080i looked bad (pixelation/macroblocking) and 480p had glitching/skipping problems.

Hope that helps! :D

Anyone have any comments on which device (STB or DVD) should use the HDMI?

I'm a newby at all of this, but I have been reading my manuals as I wait for delivery of my new equipment.

According to the manual with my Toshiba DVD player SD-4980SU, it will only upconvert while using the HDMI port.

I confirmed the part number in my maxent matches with the original post of this thread.

Mine, the number on the back of the display that I can read through the holes also match the original post which has one letter different from the panny glass I think.

All the generalizations about heat on the Maxents...I measured my 50X3 at hottest point I could find with 2 digital thermometers. Probes were located 1/2" above the top vent holes just above the right hand hole on the right side rear (as you face the back side). Temp varied between 108*F & 109*F. This was after 2 hours running and ambient room temp was 69*. Doesn't seem all that hot to me. Curious if those thinking it's extremely hot are seeing the same temps.

Anyone been following the thread "Many Digital HDTV's Throw Away Up to Half of Available Resolution" (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=608670)? Just curious if anyone had the opportunity to test the Maxent.

I had mine connected via component with the hack so it upconverts over component. I was using HDMI on my HD STB.

I think some others have had problems with the Samsung 850 too. Both 720p and 1080i looked bad (pixelation/macroblocking) and 480p had glitching/skipping problems.

Hope that helps!Other reports I read said people were hapy with it. Maybe it's a case-by-case issue. I will have mine set up the same was as you described, as the Maxent only has one HDMI and the cable STB is using that. I don't want to go the HDMI switcher box route, but then again, my Logitech Z-680 speakers only have one optical connection (used by my modded Xbox) and one digital coax input (used by the cable STB), so I might need a switcher anyway...perhaps if I could find an HDMI switcher that has optical or digital coax as well... :cool:

Anyway, it'll be here today so I plan to set it up this evening and play around with it. I have the Avia disc ready and waiting to run. I will probably connect the HDMI to it to set up the settings for the STB, then coax for the HD850.

I had asked this earlier and no one seemed to have an answer. Is it possible to test the listed contrast ratio of 3000:1 and also the number of colors 16.7 million?

I had asked this earlier and no one seemed to have an answer. Is it possible to test the listed contrast ratio of 3000:1 and also the number of colors 16.7 million?No, it's not. the human eye can't tell more than 65k or so colors. How would one test the number of colors, or the contrast ratio? :confused:

No, it's not. the human eye can't tell more than 65k or so colors. How would one test the number of colors, or the contrast ratio? :confused:

Actually from what I read, the color may matter. Human eye may be able to distinguish somewhere around 10 million colors. However the spectrum that we can distinguish doesn't overlap the set displays entirely. We may be more sensative to distinguish certain shades than the set is able to display.

No, it's not. the human eye can't tell more than 65k or so colors. How would one test the number of colors, or the contrast ratio? :confused:

You can test the contrast ratio with the right equipment...When I held a projector meet, AVSmember Milori brought over his colorfacts camera and software and we measured the CR of several projectors.

http://www.milori.com/products/colorfacts/default.asp

Hooked up the HDMI cable from the HD STB to the TV last night and was pretty impressed at how SD looked, even from the HDMI cable.

So now I have -

DVD > Component
XBOX 360 > Component
STB > HDMI

How much worse do DVD's look via component vs. if they're upscaled using HDMI???

How much worse do DVD's look via component vs. if they're upscaled using HDMI???
They look fantastic via component compared to el cheapo upscaling units with severe macroblocking problems, namely Toshiba SD-K850 and Samsung HD841.

how about the Samsung HD850 upconverted over component w/ the hack?

They look fantastic via component compared to el cheapo upscaling units with severe macroblocking problems, namely Toshiba SD-K850 and Samsung HD841.

I agree....My Panasonic RP56 (standard progressive 480p) looks better than I could imagine. I'm not bothering with an upscaling DVD player. In fact, I might try my Pioneer Elite f07 DVD changer which is interlaced only to see how that does.

Robert

OK, I'm a bit puzzled.

I've had my Maxent for almost 2 weeks now and I'd guess I'm up to 200 hours or so of use. I've been following the reports of the heat generated by these sets and how different they seem to be. My set does get warm during use but not to the point that I couldn't leave my hand on the hottest part. My question is about a buzzing noise I just noticed coming from the back of the set. I hadn't noticed this before since the noise is fairly quiet (the set was off, BTW) but this sound distinctly reminds me of a fan running on a motherboard, not a CPU fan mind you but more like what I've seen on some chipsets. Has anyone else noticed a similar noise with theirs? Is it possible there is a fan inside?

how about the Samsung HD850 upconverted over component w/ the hack?I just set up the refurb'd Samsung HD850 i got from Amazon for a bill, and upscale thru component to 1080i, then using the Avia disc, looked great. I'm popping in a movie now to see how it looks.

What's odd is that I cannot seem to get the HD850 to output sound using the digital coax. I returned the HD841 to Amazon for the same issue, thinking it was bad. Unlikely that both the ones I got are bad for the same reason, so it has to be something on my end. :cool:

OK, I'm a bit puzzled.

I've had my Maxent for almost 2 weeks now and I'd guess I'm up to 200 hours or so of use. I've been following the reports of the heat generated by these sets and how different they seem to be. My set does get warm during use but not to the point that I couldn't leave my hand on the hottest part. My question is about a buzzing noise I just noticed coming from the back of the set. I hadn't noticed this before since the noise is fairly quiet (the set was off, BTW) but this sound distinctly reminds me of a fan running on a motherboard, not a CPU fan mind you but more like what I've seen on some chipsets. Has anyone else noticed a similar noise with theirs? Is it possible there is a fan inside?

Mine has the same noise, so I take it that the noise is normal. It isn't too hot to hold my hand on either.

I've had my 50X3 for three days. did notice one problem and it's pretty severe and I don't have a technical word for it: say if someone wear a shirt with fine grid, the whole shirt will kinda 'light up' with bright highlights which, in most times, flashes as well; or when there are Black letters on a pure White background, the sides of the letters have bright "shadows". Such bright, flashy shadows appear in most of cases when there are fine black vertical lines.
NOTE: this only happens with HDTV.

my set up:

HDTV ---- HDMI + DVI converter + Comcase box ( has above described problem )

Component ----- Progressive Scan SONY DVD player ( No Problem at all !!! )



Is this problem specific with Maxent or with ALL Plasma HDTV's ?

Problem solved. Thanks to "1920X1080" dude who pointed out this is an 'edge enhancement' problem caused by sharpness setting.

It is the "sharpness" setting. The default 50 is one step too high. tuned down to 40 and everything looks perfect. Lower sharpness doesn't make any difference.



Maxent is good. Now I don't have any complaints :-)))))))

New to the site....great info! I read most of this thread and was ready to buy, but was led astray at the last minute. My wife was at BB in San Antonio filling out the paperwork when the CSR told her that a lot of the Maxent 50s were bought on Black Friday and subsequently returned shortly thereafter due to a variety of problems. I'm not sure if they were just feeding her a line to switch her to something more expensive or if it is the truth. Any opinions out there?

New to the site....great info! I read most of this thread and was ready to buy, but was led astray at the last minute. My wife was at BB in San Antonio filling out the paperwork when the CSR told her that a lot of the Maxent 50s were bought on Black Friday and subsequently returned shortly thereafter due to a variety of problems. I'm not sure if they were just feeding her a line to switch her to something more expensive or if it is the truth. Any opinions out there?

Sounds like a load of crock, considering that the Maxent's were not on sale on Black Friday. Remember, the Maxent 50 is a loss leader for BB in the plasma department...When they were selling them at the original price, they were losing money on each sale...So of course they have incentive to sell you a more expensive brand that you can buy on-line for $1000 less...Much higher markups.

But hey, no-one's twisting your arm and you have to live with YOUR decision, not us. So far, I'm very happy with the purchase.

Robert

Hung the Maxent on the wall last night...The VMPL mount makes it a snap. I did have one problem, though, and wanted to get everyone's thoughts on the solution....

The wall I mounted the Plasma on did not have 16" stud centers...It had a double stud directly in the center of the wall, and then nothing else close until then end of the wall (corner with the next wall) on the left and the door on the right. So, I didn't really have two studs to mount on with the exception of the double studs in the center....

So, my solution was to secure the mount in the center with four lag bolts to the double studs, one up and one down in each stud, and then use 100lb rated toggle bolts on the ends of the mount just to insure no twist and side loading. As long as the mount is level, the resultant forces should be concentrated on the center lag bolts, with any off level load held by the end toggle bolts. It felt steady as a rock and I pulled on it with my 200lb frame, but I must say, the first time hanging that sucker in the air on the wall and letting go, took some faith :) My wife had a heart attack when I tilted it away from the wall to connect the cables. She thought it was coming down.

Robert

Assuming you actually got the stud centers or close to, you should be fine - it was a good idea to do the toggle bolts in addition on control the rotation/torque.


So, my solution was to secure the mount in the center with four lag bolts to the double studs, one up and one down in each stud, and then use 100lb rated toggle bolts on the ends of the mount just to insure no twist and side loading. As long as the mount is level, the resultant forces should be concentrated on the center lag bolts, with any off level load held by the end toggle bolts. It felt steady as a rock and I pulled on it with my 200lb frame, but I must say, the first time hanging that sucker in the air on the wall and letting go, took some faith :) My wife had a heart attack when I tilted it away from the wall to connect the cables. She thought it was coming down.

Robert

Assuming you actually got the stud centers or close to, you should be fine - it was a good idea to do the toggle bolts in addition on control the rotation/torque.

I was very careful about this, using a finishing nail to find the edges. I also knew roughly where the studs were and that they were doubles, as I took pictures of the home during construction, and happened to find a picture of this wall prior to drywall.

Robert

I have a strange problem with my picture. I have a Time Warner HD8300 box connected through HDMI at 1080i and on some dark scenes and especially on actors cheek I have discoloration. The appearance is somewhat like when I run my LCD computer monitor at 256 colors instead of 16 or 32 bit color.
Hopefully this isn't macro blocking as I am starting to notice it more frequently now since I purchased the unit on November 21st. By the way the performance of this plasma is incredible other than my one problem.

I have a strange problem with my picture. I have a Time Warner HD8300 box connected through HDMI at 1080i and on some dark scenes and especially on actors cheek I have discoloration. The appearance is somewhat like when I run my LCD computer monitor at 256 colors instead of 16 or 32 bit color.
Hopefully this isn't macro blocking as I am starting to notice it more frequently now since I purchased the unit on November 21st. By the way the performance of this plasma is incredible other than my one problem.


I know what you are describing, it is a color gradient that isn't smooth. I too notice it when watching dvds (via component), though I do not think it is a problem with the Maxent but rather with the feed. Today I plan on playing the same disks on my Panasonic 32" tube to see if it is there. I'll keep you posted.

EDIT:
Using my 32" Panasonic I took a look at Polar Express and played one of the dark scenes I noticed had an abrupt gradient on the Maxent. At first I couldn't see it but as I looked closer at the screen it was there. I'm concluding that the bigger screen size of the Maxent makes it easier to see these types of flaws.

I have a strange problem with my picture. I have a Time Warner HD8300 box connected through HDMI at 1080i and on some dark scenes and especially on actors cheek I have discoloration. The appearance is somewhat like when I run my LCD computer monitor at 256 colors instead of 16 or 32 bit color.
Hopefully this isn't macro blocking as I am starting to notice it more frequently now since I purchased the unit on November 21st. By the way the performance of this plasma is incredible other than my one problem.

I noticed that one time also...It was watching Surface on NBC in HD a couple of weeks ago....The week they were in the submersible and all the scenes were very dark. I didn't notice it far away, but if you walked close to the picture, it was pretty evident...very distinct pixelation in dark areas....

I haven't seen it since.

Here is a strange thing I am seeing. If someone has one a striped shirt, black and white especially the lines looked like the equivalent of something is not anti-aliased (I realize that anti aliasing is for 3d graphics, but that is the look). Also things with a silver color look odd similar to what I said above along with looking like it is moving.

I have a strange problem with my picture. I have a Time Warner HD8300 box connected through HDMI at 1080i and on some dark scenes and especially on actors cheek I have discoloration. The appearance is somewhat like when I run my LCD computer monitor at 256 colors instead of 16 or 32 bit color.
Hopefully this isn't macro blocking as I am starting to notice it more frequently now since I purchased the unit on November 21st. By the way the performance of this plasma is incredible other than my one problem.


I had been saying this for weeks and I had been trouble shooting ever since I got the TV. Finally I was conviced it's an issue with this TV and I gave up. I exchanged for the Zenith. I watched the same DVD (army of darness) and HD programs (Flight of the Phoenix, and Collateral). I can still see some of the gradiant problem, but much fewer cases and when it happened they are far better than the Maxent from my normal viewing distance (about 10-11 ft)

i noticed on some dvd's and hd content, when there are dark scenes, some of the dark parts seem splotchy(is that a word?).

in other words, some dark parts aren't quite 'blended' and show bands of different shades.

any solutions? i've pretty much accepted it. :confused:

-armus

My friend checked on his 50" panny on HBO HD and noticed the same bands as well. He's on the Dish network where I am on Adelphia.

WHEW, it's not the Maxent.

-armus

the retail price for the X2 is $$$ for the same size, is it really worth $500 more retail price?

EDIT>>

mod note: no price talk, please. MSRP only, thanks.

I previously posted about dark picture. One clarification, I am aware of the difference between SD and HD material. I've been testing both as well as 480P from a DVD using combinations of HDMI, component, and AVS (S) inputs.

I managed to get the picture brightness acceptable after much tweaking but was still concerned the picture was a bit dark. Many scenes from all sources with dark area had no detail where I thought it should have had some. Just calibrated with DVE and was unable to get the third dark bar visible no matter what I tried.

Sadly I'll be returning it. The thrill of deciding what to get is considerably reduced the second time around.

I managed to get the picture brightness acceptable after much tweaking but was still concerned the picture was a bit dark. Many scenes from all sources with dark area had no detail where I thought it should have had some. Just calibrated with DVE and was unable to get the third dark bar visible no matter what I tried.



Did you try changing the RGB Bias and Gain values via the serial port? I'm curious as to whether these will help with dark settings....I noticed that the newest firmware over on the 42x3 maxent thread is 822....The firmware on our 50's is 823. If the same firmware is used, I wonder if the RGB settings developed by the 42" users would help. Check into the 42" maxent thread, 2nd or 3rd page from the end, and someone posted their RGB bias and gain settings....Try these and see if it helps.

Here are the settings for the 822 firmware on the 42x3 on the HDMI input:

Temp Warm
Cont 65
BRT 45
CLR 21
Tint 0
Shrp 30
Noise off
RGN 220
GGN 222
BGN 185
RBS 455
GBS 467
BBS 474

Can somone punch these in on the 50X3 to see how it compares...We are using a similar version firmware (823) so I'm curious to see if the settings are comparable. I don't have a HDMI source else I would try it. NOTE: You'll need the RS232 connection to change the RGB Gain and Bias settings.

As a comparison, here are my RGB settings (factory default)

RGN = 282
BGN= 307
GGN = 333

RBS = 453
GBS = 448
BBS = 418


Looks like the Blue, Red and Green gains are turned down while the Blue Bias is pumped up

Is anyone running their Maxent connected via VGA to a HTPC? Can you do the native 1366x768 from your PC over VGA? Thanks!

Is anyone running their Maxent connected via VGA to a HTPC? Can you do the native 1366x768 from your PC over VGA? Thanks!If you'd bother to READ the entire thread, you'd have seen this question already asked and answered. :rolleyes:

If you'd bother to READ the entire thread, you'd have seen this question already asked and answered. :rolleyes:

lol, this thread IS getting long!

my PC runs at 1366x768 using a ATI AIW 8500DV (vga connection). Half Life2 / CS:Source run great (get dizzy sometimes). Civ 4 looks incredible.

the only problem i have is running some mame games. some run in a different resolution/refresh rate so it doesn't display on the Maxent. I gotta figure something out! I'm stuck only playing the REAL old school games like ms pacman and street fighter 2, can't even play super puzzle fighter. :(

-armus

If you'd bother to READ the entire thread, you'd have seen this question already asked and answered. :rolleyes:

I did read the thread, just wanted to confirm considering that Maxent's Web site says the max this baby does via RGB input is 1280x1024.

Here are the settings for the 822 firmware on the 42x3 on the HDMI input:

Temp Warm
Cont 65
BRT 45
CLR 21
Tint 0
Shrp 30
Noise off
RGN 220
GGN 222
BGN 185
RBS 455
GBS 467
BBS 474

Can somone punch these in on the 50X3 to see how it compares...We are using a similar version firmware (823) so I'm curious to see if the settings are comparable. I don't have a HDMI source else I would try it. NOTE: You'll need the RS232 connection to change the RGB Gain and Bias settings.

As a comparison, here are my RGB settings (factory default)

RGN = 282
BGN= 307
GGN = 333

RBS = 453
GBS = 448
BBS = 418


Looks like the Blue, Red and Green gains are turned down while the Blue Bias is pumped up

I will give it a shot if someone can point me to a link on how to do it. Also it wont be until later this evening.

I have a strange problem with my picture. I have a Time Warner HD8300 box connected through HDMI at 1080i and on some dark scenes and especially on actors cheek I have discoloration. The appearance is somewhat like when I run my LCD computer monitor at 256 colors instead of 16 or 32 bit color.
Hopefully this isn't macro blocking as I am starting to notice it more frequently now since I purchased the unit on November 21st. By the way the performance of this plasma is incredible other than my one problem.

I've noticed the same issue using the 8300HD box, but I haven't seen it on my dvd player at all. Also, dunno if it's the same thing but sometimes peoples faces get pixelated for a second and then they are back to normal. Again, I've only seen this on my 8300HD, not on my dvd player. The first time I saw it, I paused the cable box and rewound it and looked at it several times, it would only do it at a specific spot (get pixelated, then go back to normal). I'm wondering if it's a cable problem? maybe the box isn't getting a great signal and it's having compression issues or something? I have an HDMI cable ordered and I'm going to use it on the 8300HD, so I'll let you guys know if anything changes.

Also, I just calibrated my Maxent using DVE, and I noticed that I couldn't get the green perfect, red and blue look correct, but the green is still off. Just wondering if anyone else noticed that? I don't know if it would make a difference since we all aren't using the same DVD players, but I could post my DVE calibrated numbers if anyone thinks it would help. First time I've ever calibrated a tv though, so no promises that it's totally right. BTW I'm using a Norcent Upscaling DVD player, running in 1080i mode. I'm running the cable box in 720p mode for now. Does anyone have any opinions on which would be better? 1080i or 720p, or maybe another mode?

...I'm running the cable box in 720p mode for now. Does anyone have any opinions on which would be better? 1080i or 720p, or maybe another mode?I have mine set to pass-though, since AFAIK there isn't any upscaling chip in the Maxent that will upscale (or downscale) the image to fit. Or is there? (Unlikely that we'd find a Faroudja chip in there, eh?) Although there are a few plasma's that have that, notably the VIZIO P50HDM 50" Plasma Monitor at Costco, which is a model I'm looking at to possibly replace this Maxent. :cool:

Here are the settings for the 822 firmware on the 42x3 on the HDMI input:

Temp Warm
Cont 65
BRT 45
CLR 21
Tint 0
Shrp 30
Noise off
RGN 220
GGN 222
BGN 185
RBS 455
GBS 467
BBS 474

Can somone punch these in on the 50X3 to see how it compares...We are using a similar version firmware (823) so I'm curious to see if the settings are comparable. I don't have a HDMI source else I would try it. NOTE: You'll need the RS232 connection to change the RGB Gain and Bias settings.

As a comparison, here are my RGB settings (factory default)

RGN = 282
BGN= 307
GGN = 333

RBS = 453
GBS = 448
BBS = 418


Looks like the Blue, Red and Green gains are turned down while the Blue Bias is pumped up

I have tried several times to access my Maxent via 232 port with NO success. I don't understand why I can't get the computer to talk to the TV. If anyone has any more info on the process I will give it another shot.

Mine has a Green bias that I would like to get rid of, it only appears during Football games and other sporting events, but is very annoying!

clintyarborough,
Yes, please post your DVE calibrated numbers. I am using 50/50/30/-1/1/DNR High/Cool for my 8300 HD over HDMI and I think the picture is a little dull. I will probably increase the brightness to 60 or so after a few more hours of viewing.

I have tried several times to access my Maxent via 232 port with NO success. I don't understand why I can't get the computer to talk to the TV. If anyone has any more info on the process I will give it another shot.
You turned ECHO on?

Reading some of your old posts, you should have made it that far. Why don't you post your exact steps for connecting so that others can compare your routine to theirs.

clintyarborough,
Yes, please post your DVE calibrated numbers. I am using 50/50/30/-1/1/DNR High/Cool for my 8300 HD over HDMI and I think the picture is a little dull. I will probably increase the brightness to 60 or so after a few more hours of viewing.

Mine also were dull at that. I'll post my DVE settings when I get home from work.

Also, I just calibrated my Maxent using DVE, and I noticed that I couldn't get the green perfect, red and blue look correct, but the green is still off.

Are you connecting with a PC and changing the RGB Bias and Gain settings via the RS232 port? If not, you're just p-ing in the wind ;)

Robert

Wish me luck.

Time Warner is coming soon with my set top box and BB is delivering the rest early this evening.

I've got all my cables laid out.

LOL, I'm like a child at Christmas.

The TV I'm replacing is a 25" Sharp that is about 20 years old. (and it's my best set)

clintyarborough,
Yes, please post your DVE calibrated numbers. I am using 50/50/30/-1/1/DNR High/Cool for my 8300 HD over HDMI and I think the picture is a little dull. I have the same box, and DNR - when connected thru HDMI - will always stay on "OFF". It'll let you change it to high, but when you go back to settings, it will say off.

I've had the brightness at 80; anything less and it's too dark for my taste.

I need your help, and/or opinions. I am considering returning the Maxent and getting the Vizio 50" HD plasma (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6671111#post6671111) from Costco. The price difference is negligible (after tax and 4-year warranty at Best Buy, it's around $50 more for the Vizio at Costco.)

The Maxent only has one HDMI, 3000/1 contrast, a 3-comb digital filter, and uses passive cooling (no fans, just heatsinks.)

The Vizio has 2 HDMI, 10000/1 contrast, a Faroudja DCDi chip, and uses fans (so might be a bit noiser than the Maxent, which is completely quiet.)

I bought the Oppo DVD player; so if I want to watch DVDs, I have to either A.) switch the cables to use HDMI, or B.) get an HDMI switch box, which will run me at least another $125+. :cool:

What do you guys think: Should I return the Maxent to Best Buy and get the Vizio from Costco? The more I look at the Maxent, the more the Vizio looks like it might be a better choice. :(

I need your help, and/or opinions. I am considering returning the Maxent and getting the Vizio 50" HD plasma (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6671111#post6671111) from Costco. The price difference is negligible (after tax and 4-year warranty at Best Buy, it's around $50 more for the Vizio at Costco.)

The Maxent only has one HDMI, 3000/1 contrast, a 3-comb digital filter, and uses passive cooling (no fans, just heatsinks.)

The Vizio has 2 HDMI, 10000/1 contrast, a Faroudja DCDi chip, and uses fans (so might be a bit noiser than the Maxent, which is completely quiet.)

I bought the Oppo DVD player; so if I want to watch DVDs, I have to either A.) switch the cables to use HDMI, or B.) get an HDMI switch box, which will run me at least another $125+. :cool:

What do you guys think: Should I return the Maxent to Best Buy and get the Vizio from Costco? The more I look at the Maxent, the more the Vizio looks like it might be a better choice. :(

Why don't you first just see if you can notice a difference between component and hdmi. I suspect you won't, especially 7+ feet back from the screen where you likely sit.

Why don't you first just see if you can notice a difference between component and hdmi. I suspect you won't, especially 7+ feet back from the screen where you likely sit.There is. Which is why I'm using HDMI for the STB; also, when TiVo finally releases it's HD CableCard box next year, it will require an HDMI connection, so I'll be back to where I am now even if I use component for the STB. Ihe Oppo DVD player has to use HDMI to upconvert, so no component there either. The only thing I'm using component for is the Xbox, because that's all it uses for HD.

I need your help, and/or opinions. I am considering returning the Maxent and getting the Vizio 50" HD plasma (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6671111#post6671111) from Costco. The price difference is negligible (after tax and 4-year warranty at Best Buy, it's around $50 more for the Vizio at Costco.)

The Maxent only has one HDMI, 3000/1 contrast, a 3-comb digital filter, and uses passive cooling (no fans, just heatsinks.)

The Vizio has 2 HDMI, 10000/1 contrast, a Faroudja DCDi chip, and uses fans (so might be a bit noiser than the Maxent, which is completely quiet.)

I bought the Oppo DVD player; so if I want to watch DVDs, I have to either A.) switch the cables to use HDMI, or B.) get an HDMI switch box, which will run me at least another $125+. :cool:

What do you guys think: Should I return the Maxent to Best Buy and get the Vizio from Costco? The more I look at the Maxent, the more the Vizio looks like it might be a better choice. :(

Be sure you read the Vizio thread carefully....There are just as many issues with the Vizio as the Maxent. Also, the Vizio has an LG glass, not panasonic, if that matters to you.

If I change the RGB Bias and Gain will this be visible over all inputs including component?

You turned ECHO on?

Reading some of your old posts, you should have made it that far. Why don't you post your exact steps for connecting so that others can compare your routine to theirs.

Here is EXACTLY what I do:

START:RUN:HYPERTERMINAL
CANCEL NEW CONNECTION
FILE:PROPERTIES
CONNECT USING: COM 3
COM3 PROPERTIES: BITS PER=9600, DATA BITS=8,PARITY=NONE, STOP BITS=1, FLOW CONTROL=HARDWARE
SETTINGS:FUNCTION KEY=TERMINAL, BACKSPACE KEY=CTRL H
EMULATION=AUTO DETECT
TELENET ID: ANSI
BACKSCROLL BUFFER=500
ASCII SETUP: SENDING=ECHO TYPED CHARACTERS LOCALLY, RECEIVING=WRAP LINES THAT EXCEED TERMINAL WIDTH


When I try to "talk to the tv" I either get no response.

If I type "REA:PWR" the screen on my computer displays "REAA:PWR" and nothing happens. When I hit return the cursor returns to the "R", the first charater typed. The tv does not respond. I'm totally lost, this seems to be such a simple thing to do but I can't seem to get it to work. If anyone has any input as to settings or such please let me know.

Be sure you read the Vizio thread carefully....There are just as many issues with the Vizio as the Maxent. Also, the Vizio has an LG glass, not panasonic, if that matters to you.I read the whole thing (well, I skimmed a lot of it), and the only real issues I saw were the fan noise and the buzzing when in 1080i, both of which appear to be resolved by Vizio. The LG glass has gotten some rave reviews, and I'm thinking it might be a slightly better unit for basically the same price. :cool: The kicker, for me, is the two HDMI and the Faroudja DCDi chip, which *should* make SD better. I'm going to Costco to check it out, see what I can find out.

Here is EXACTLY what I do:

START:RUN:HYPERTERMINAL
CANCEL NEW CONNECTION
FILE:PROPERTIES
CONNECT USING: COM 3
COM3 PROPERTIES: BITS PER=9600, DATA BITS=8,PARITY=NONE, STOP BITS=1, FLOW CONTROL=HARDWARE
SETTINGS:FUNCTION KEY=TERMINAL, BACKSPACE KEY=CTRL H
EMULATION=AUTO DETECT
TELENET ID: ANSI
BACKSCROLL BUFFER=500
ASCII SETUP: SENDING=ECHO TYPED CHARACTERS LOCALLY, RECEIVING=WRAP LINES THAT EXCEED TERMINAL WIDTH


When I try to "talk to the tv" I either get no response.

If I type "REA:PWR" the screen on my computer displays "REAA:PWR" and nothing happens. When I hit return the cursor returns to the "R", the first charater typed. The tv does not respond. I'm totally lost, this seems to be such a simple thing to do but I can't seem to get it to work. If anyone has any input as to settings or such please let me know.

Are you using a null modem cable? I'm pretty sure that pins 2 and 3 have to be crossed as both your PC and the TV are DTE devices. I helped another user via PM and it turned out thats what he needed too.

If I change the RGB Bias and Gain will this be visible over all inputs including component?

Yes

I am an admitted newby to the wide world of upscale video, though I can read a manual. (Day to day, I'm an IT manager and do understand computers.)

Time-Warner delivered my 8300hd around 3 yesterday and dropped off a good quality set of component cables with it. The tech said he wasn't supposed to leave it without plugging it into a HD set, which hadn't been delivered yet. He relented and we hooked it up to the old Sharp crt via coax.

Around 5, the guys from BB arrived. I paid the extra 50 bucks for them to haul it to my house, carry it in and 'connect' it. That all went very well, they did hook up the STB, via component cables, and my Toshiba DVD via the HDMI cable. I used digital optical cables to connect the DVD and STB to the Yamaha. The BB guys had little interest in unpacking and setting up the Yamaha HTIB. No matter, I still feel I got my money's worth.

I learned that the set will only do PIP with the HDMI cable, not a big deal since my STB will do PIP on its own.

The screen looked great, straight out of the box. I did try some of the setting tweaks which to my tired eyes did make an improvement over the out-of-box settings.


I know early in this thread there were lots of questions about removing the speakers, not a problem, they come detached, and are easy to put back on.

After 6 or 7 hours of use, the top vents on mine were comfortably warm to the touch.

I had picked up 6' feet of light rope from Home Depot that I cable tied to the wall panel attachment lugs on the back of the screen. They work great and add a nice glow around the edges. Ambilight without buying a Phillips.

HD content off the Time Warner 8300HD looks fabulous, I watched pigeons in NYC's Central Park for an hour on DiscoveryHD. SD seems ok, it's obvious to me, that I'm noticing a lot of flaws in SD, that just result from having a much larger image. Our 3 local channels all do the news in HD, and they looked good too, warts and all. I watched Letterman in HD last night which had a rerun with Madonna and Melissa Etheridge. Both have faces made for SD, that may be the worst downside of HD.

I rented Fantastic 4 yesterday to christen the DVD player and Yamaha receiver. They both worked great, though the movie was kind of sucky. It was a bit late after hooking everything up, so I didn't really crank up the Yamaha too loud, I'll try that tonight.

All in all, as a techy kind of guy with limited AV experience, I found everything easy to hook up (RTFM), and felt like I got good value for my dollar. I did download and read most of the manuals before installation and had ordered my cables from CableWholesale.com.

I'm hoping in 4 years I'll be p!ssed off that I blew good money on the extended warranty.

I've currently got mine setting on a huge steamer trunk in the corner of the room, I'll try to take a snapshot tonight and post it.

Finally, I'd like to thank RobertMee again for his advice.

I am an admitted newby to the wide world of upscale video, though I can read a manual. (Day to day, I'm an IT manager and do understand computers.)

Time-Warner delivered my 8300hd around 3 yesterday and dropped off a good quality set of component cables with it. The tech said he wasn't supposed to leave it without plugging it into a HD set, which hadn't been delivered yet. He relented and we hooked it up to the old Sharp crt via coax.

Around 5, the guys from BB arrived. I paid the extra 50 bucks for them to haul it to my house, carry it in and 'connect' it. That all went very well, they did hook up the STB, via component cables, and my Toshiba DVD via the HDMI cable. I used digital optical cables to connect the DVD and STB to the Yamaha. The BB guys had little interest in unpacking and setting up the Yamaha HTIB. No matter, I still feel I got my money's worth.

I learned that the set will only do PIP with the HDMI cable, not a big deal since my STB will do PIP on its own.

The screen looked great, straight out of the box. I did try some of the setting tweaks which to my tired eyes did make an improvement over the out-of-box settings.


I know early in this thread there were lots of questions about removing the speakers, not a problem, they come detached, and are easy to put back on.

After 6 or 7 hours of use, the top vents on mine were comfortably warm to the touch.

I had picked up 6' feet of light rope from Home Depot that I cable tied to the wall panel attachment lugs on the back of the screen. They work great and add a nice glow around the edges. Ambilight without buying a Phillips.

HD content off the Time Warner 8300HD looks fabulous, I watched pigeons in NYC's Central Park for an hour on DiscoveryHD. SD seems ok, it's obvious to me, that I'm noticing a lot of flaws in SD, that just result from having a much larger image. Our 3 local channels all do the news in HD, and they looked good too, warts and all. I watched Letterman in HD last night which had a rerun with Madonna and Melissa Etheridge. Both have faces made for SD, that may be the worst downside of HD.

I rented Fantastic 4 yesterday to christen the DVD player and Yamaha receiver. They both worked great, though the movie was kind of sucky. It was a bit late after hooking everything up, so I didn't really crank up the Yamaha too loud, I'll try that tonight.

All in all, as a techy kind of guy with limited AV experience, I found everything easy to hook up (RTFM), and felt like I got good value for my dollar. I did download and read most of the manuals before installation and had ordered my cables from CableWholesale.com.

I'm hoping in 4 years I'll be p!ssed off that I blew good money on the extended warranty.

I've currently got mine setting on a huge steamer trunk in the corner of the room, I'll try to take a snapshot tonight and post it.

Finally, I'd like to thank RobertMee again for his advice.

Glad to hear it worked out....I would experiment with an s-video connection for your SD channels....The settings for HD across component make SD channels too dark and undefined. So, I hooked up the s-video feed as well as the component from the STB, and switch between the two depending on what station I'm watching.

Robert

Glad to hear it worked out....I would experiment with an s-video connection for your SD channels....The settings for HD across component make SD channels too dark and undefined. So, I hooked up the s-video feed as well as the component from the STB, and switch between the two depending on what station I'm watching.

Robert

Thanks, I'll check it out. I've got cables galore. I over-ordered once I found a inexpensive source.

Are you using a null modem cable? I'm pretty sure that pins 2 and 3 have to be crossed as both your PC and the TV are DTE devices. I helped another user via PM and it turned out thats what he needed too.


I'm using a standard com port 9 pin cable with a 25 pin adapter.

Is a com port cable a null modem cable?????

When I compared the cable to the "manual" the pin numbers lined up.

I'm using a standard com port 9 pin cable with a 25 pin adapter.

Is a com port cable a null modem cable?????

When I compared the cable to the "manual" the pin numbers lined up.


No, a Null Modem cable is different than a straight or "standard" cable even though they look the same. You can by a little null modem adapter at Radio Shack for about $ 7.00.

I learned that the set will only do PIP with the HDMI cable, not a big deal since my STB will do PIP on its own.[/q]It does? I have the same thing (though I'm with BHN, formerly known as TWC.)

[QUOTE=TC Rider]I had picked up 6' feet of light rope from Home Depot that I cable tied to the wall panel attachment lugs on the back of the screen. They work great and add a nice glow around the edges. Ambilight without buying a Phillips. :p Dude that's hilarious! 'Course the Ambilight changes colors based on the screen. But a nice blue or perhaps soft white around the edges does sound interesting. :o

I'm hoping in 4 years I'll be p!ssed off that I blew good money on the extended warranty.Same here - in fact, I'm going tonight to pay the $299 for it. More on that later!

Finally, I'd like to thank RobertMee again for his advice.Same here! I haven't done the RGB settings yet, but I will.

Anyway, back to the extended warranty. We all know the PiP red bug, right? The chances of that getting fixed are slim to none, IMHO. So in 2 or 3 years, who else thinks we can complain to BB about it, they'll try to "fix it" somehow, not be able to, and then you can get a full refund and apply it to another unit? (That's provided nothing actually breaks, of course.) The PiP red issue is a problem (albeit minor, IMHO), but it certainly seems like we could use that to our advantage in a few years.

I can't try the RGB settings ... no serial port on my laptop... :(

SYBA SY-USB-S USB to Serial (RS232) Port Adapter - Retail (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16822998007&ATT=Adapters+and+gender+&CMP=OTC-Froogle&srccode=cii_14110944&cpncode=11-3818716-2): $8.99 + $4.99 shipping.

Problem solved. :)

hey hfelsh,

i'll be on the edge of my seat for your review of both the vizio and maxent side by side!!!

-armus

Here are my RGB settings (factory default)

RGN = 282
BGN= 307
GGN = 333

RBS = 453
GBS = 448
BBS = 418


Looks like the Blue, Red and Green gains are turned down while the Blue Bias is pumped up

Here are my HDMI settings for comparison (with Robert's component 1 settings in ()'s):

RGN = 283 (282)
BGN = 317 (307)
GGN = 322 (333)

RBS = 411 (453)
GBS = 382 (448)
BBS = 397 (418)

Here are my Comp 1 & 2 and RGB settings (all have the same values) compared to my HDMI settings in []'s and Robert's component 1 settings in ()'s:

RGN = 306 [283] (282)
BGN = 335 [317] (307)
GGN = 312 [322] (333)

RBS = 492 [411] (453)
GBS = 512 [382] (448)
BBS = 496 [397] (418)


Up to this point I have been unable to obtain AV1 and AV2 settings because the RS232 port repeatedly sends "4600 Key Got" forever and does not allow any commands to be sent.

[QUOTE=TC Rider]I had picked up 6' feet of light rope from Home Depot that I cable tied to the wall panel attachment lugs on the back of the screen. They work great and add a nice glow around the edges. Ambilight without buying a Phillips.

:p Dude that's hilarious! 'Course the Ambilight changes colors based on the screen. But a nice blue or perhaps soft white around the edges does sound interesting. :o



I actually read about the light rope trick on another thread here a month or so ago. I'm not good at tracking down old threads. I picked up the light rope for under $10 (can't post prices, LOL)

It's a nice effect even though it doesn't change colors, my walls are a cream color so the light looks warm. The lugs on the back of the panel for wall mounting are perfect for hanging the rope. I still need to rig up an easy way to turn it off and on, I'll probably run it into one of the switched outlets on the Yamaha receiver.

Here are my HDMI settings for comparison (Robert's in ()'s):

RGN = 283 (282)
BGN = 317 (307)
GGN = 322 (333)

RBS = 411 (453)
GBS = 382 (448)
BBS = 397 (418)

Here are my Comp 1 & 2 and RGB settings (all have the same values) compared to my HDMI settings in []'s and Robert's HDMI settings in ()'s:

RGN = 306 [283] (282)
BGN = 335 [317] (307)
GGN = 312 [322] (333)

RBS = 492 [411] (453)
GBS = 512 [382] (448)
BBS = 496 [397] (418)


Up to this point I have been unable to obtain AV1 and AV2 settings because the RS232 port repeatedly sends "4600 Key Got" forever and does not allow any commands to be sent.

My settings were for Component 1 actually....I don't have an HDMI source at the moment.

Interesting that they are different...Shows they actually do some calibration at the factory.

Have you tried setting them to the values suggested earlier from the 42x3 thread?

My settings were for Component 1 actually....I don't have an HDMI source at the moment.

Interesting that they are different...Shows they actually do some calibration at the factory.

Have you tried setting them to the values suggested earlier from the 42x3 thread?

I updated my post to reflect that those were your component settings. I haven't tried adjusting the actual RGB values yet.

My settings on Component are
Contrast : 57
Brightness : 59
Color : 39
Sharpness : 40
Color Temp : Warm

That's off the top of my head, but I think that's all I changed.

I'm really not sure if I'm going to keep the Maxent or not. I was using an X1 Projector with a 163" screen, and I'm not sure if the Maxent is worth all the extra money. Maybe I'm expecting too much, but the projector seems to hold up pretty well to the plasma. Sure the plasma is brighter, and I can watch it better in the daytime, but the projector was huge and it had an impressive picture. I'm going to watch it for another week or so, and make my decision. I have a friend that has the newer 4805 projector, I might borrow it and put the projector and plasma side by side with the same size screens and see how much of an improvement the plasma is. If it's not a dramatic improvement, then the maxent will probably go back.

I have a friend that has the newer 4805 projector, I might borrow it and put the projector and plasma side by side with the same size screens and see how much of an improvement the plasma is.

If you do that, post some pics of the comparison. Thanks.

Does this maxent have an orbital function where it moves the screen position around to avoid burn-in? I read further back that it has a white screen function, but didn't find anything on orbiting. If it does do orbiting, can it do it on all inputs (RGB as well)?

Thanks!

I have a Usb to serial which has a male end...which is normal, but the maxent also has a male. Did anyone else notice that you need a cable with 2 female ends?

i wish the 1st post was edited...

is there a faq now?

I have a Usb to serial which has a male end...which is normal, but the maxent also has a male. Did anyone else notice that you need a cable with 2 female ends?

Maxent recommended cable:

RS-232C Female to Female 26-152 (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049676&cp)

I have this same cable and have successfully used it to connect between the 50X3 and a USB to serial KeySpan converter.

Does this maxent have an orbital function where it moves the screen position around to avoid burn-in? I read further back that it has a white screen function, but didn't find anything on orbiting. If it does do orbiting, can it do it on all inputs (RGB as well)?

Thanks!

It has an anti-burn in shift feature with selectable time delay for image shifting.

i wish the 1st post was edited...

is there a faq now?

Edited for what reason?

It has an anti-burn in shift feature with selectable time delay for image shifting.

Well that's a pleasant surprise - how do you activate it? TIA

Well that's a pleasant surprise - how do you activate it? TIA

Menu -> Picture -> Image (last selection on the Picture menu)

It has an anti-burn in shift feature with selectable time delay for image shifting.

How does that work?

How does that work?UH...let's see. It's an image shift function, so, it shifts the image every X seconds (where X is user selectable, 10, 20, 30 seconds.) Is it that hard to understand? :confused:

Sorry for asking.

How does that work?

The image is shifted based on the user's selected delay. Whether this is in both the X and Y coordinates, I don't know. I have no information on the amount of shift, direction of shift, or pattern of shift. I also assume that selectable delays are available to make all users happy. Although the shifting is imperceptible, I'm sure some people will claim that they can see it move. For those folks, they can set the delay for a longer period of time. I would set it for as short of a delay as you are comfortable with. Most folks say they cannot even tell its working. I do not use it, so can't say for myself.

Does anyone know if this TV will allow for discrete codes... power on; power off; input 1, etc.
Thanks,
JayMan

Anyone?

Edited for what reason?

I think he's just referring to the fact that the thread is getting long and its hard to find information so people repeatedly ask the same questions. Items like current firmware, recommended serial cable, optimum settings, etc. would be handy in a sticky post that could be updated. I don't know if avsforum has a wiki type setup to use. It's an awful lot to ask a single person to track and update information into the first post.

Well the picture isn't very good but you get the idea.

The picture doesn't exist so no.... I don't get the idea. Does it have a brand name & model number?

I think he's just referring to the fact that the thread is getting long and its hard to find information so people repeatedly ask the same questions. Items like current firmware, recommended serial cable, optimum settings, etc. would be handy in a sticky post that could be updated. I don't know if avsforum has a wiki type setup to use. It's an awful lot to ask a single person to track and update information into the first post.

Yeah, I did it for a while but then the thread blew up and I gave up on trying to keep all the info in the first post. It's on page 24 now (standard format) and I think I gave up after about page three or so. :D

Anyone?

I can give you a few of the internal key hexcodes if that is what you are asking about. Whether these are the infrared hex codes, I couldn't tell you (I assume they are). You can also easily get these just by hooking up your RS-232 connection and pressing the remote keys.

Why don't you guys just post the name of the remote that you bought?

Yeah, I did it for a while but then the thread blew up and I gave up on trying to keep all the info in the first post. It's on page 24 now (standard format) and I think I gave up after about page three or so. :D

I did this before on another forum and it was an extreme amount of work, but it also had a lot more technical information associated with it. The wiki or "summary post" is the way to go.

I did this before on another forum and it was an extreme amount of work, but it also had a lot more technical information associated with it. The wiki or "summary post" is the way to go.

As long as I'm not in charge of maintenance I'm all for it! :cool:

I can give you a few of the internal key hexcodes if that is what you are asking about. Whether these are the infrared hex codes, I couldn't tell you (I assume they are). You can also easily get these just by hooking up your RS-232 connection and pressing the remote keys.

I'm in the research mode for this Maxent 50" and the Visio 50". I already have a Pronto Remote from a previous HT setup and want to continue to use it.

So far, I have not found that the Vizio has discrete codes for power and input selection. I went to BB to look at the Maxent, but it had been deleted from the local store... but now I see it on their (BB) website, so it is now back on the list.

I have not seen a manual or the remote, so I don't know what it has.

Thanks,
JayMan

I'm in the research mode for this Maxent 50" and the Visio 50". I already have a Pronto Remote from a previous HT setup and want to continue to use it.

So far, I have not found that the Vizio has discrete codes for power and input selection. I went to BB to look at the Maxent, but it had been deleted from the local store... but now I see it on their (BB) website, so it is now back on the list.

I have not seen a manual or the remote, so I don't know what it has.

Thanks,
JayMan
You can cycle inputs with a key or go directly to any input via a direct key.

You can cycle inputs with a key or go directly to any input via a direct key.

Thanks...

What about power?
Are there seperate buttons for power on and power off?

JayMan

Thanks...

What about power?
Are there seperate buttons for power on and power off?

JayMan

YES

EDIT:

My mistake...under the bottom cover as Monolithic points out, there are discrete on and off and these seem to support discrete codes. Pressing 'On' when the set is on does nothing.

I think he's just referring to the fact that the thread is getting long and its hard to find information so people repeatedly ask the same questions. Items like current firmware, recommended serial cable, optimum settings, etc. would be handy in a sticky post that could be updated. I don't know if avsforum has a wiki type setup to use. It's an awful lot to ask a single person to track and update information into the first post.
a wiki is a great idea.

Thanks...

What about power?
Are there seperate buttons for power on and power off?

JayMan

As Robert said, the exposed button on the remote is a single power ON and OFF. Under the sliding cover are additional buttons. I'd have to monitor the three buttons to see if the hex code changes. Do you have access to a Max 50 that you can program your pronto and torment the Max 50 in-store? Just curious if finding the info would help if you can't actually test it.

a wiki is a great idea.

I just got a response from the moderator and wiki's and outside linking to a summary page are not allowed. All solutions require an individual to maintain a post and be a single point of gathering information. Is anyone interested in maintaining such a post?

I am sure I will chewed out for asking this but here goes.

Seems my RGB values are different for each input, I was checking CP1 and CP2. But it also seems to be different if there is content on it such as Xbox or if it has no content (Xbox off).

Is this the way it should be?

As Robert said, the exposed button on the remote is a single power ON and OFF. Under the sliding cover are additional buttons. I'd have to monitor the three buttons to see if the hex code changes. Do you have access to a Max 50 that you can program your pronto and torment the Max 50 in-store? Just curious if finding the info would help if you can't actually test it.

We'll I'll be....I didn't even pay attention to those under the cover. They are different codes, so this set does have discrete on/off codes...NICE :)

Robert

I am sure I will chewed out for asking this but here goes.

Seems my RGB values are different for each input, I was checking CP1 and CP2. But it also seems to be different if there is content on it such as Xbox or if it has no content (Xbox off).

Is this the way it should be?

I believe each input has its own set of RGB gain/bias values as Monolithic showed when he compared his component and HDMI to my component. However, it makes no sense that it would change with the presence or absence of a signal.

As part of my research in deciding to buy it or not, i called maxent and spoke to a technical (I think) person.

Just thought I'd pass this on.

Q: What is the half life of the MX-50X3 display?
A: 20,000 Hrs

Q: I stated that in my resarch it was fairly obvious this unit uses the Panasonic display. Can you tell me what generation, e.g. 6th? 7yh?, 8th?....that is used.
A: I dont know that information

I previously posted about dark picture. One clarification, I am aware of the difference between SD and HD material. I've been testing both as well as 480P from a DVD using combinations of HDMI, component, and AVS (S) inputs.

I managed to get the picture brightness acceptable after much tweaking but was still concerned the picture was a bit dark. Many scenes from all sources with dark area had no detail where I thought it should have had some. Just calibrated with DVE and was unable to get the third dark bar visible no matter what I tried.

Sadly I'll be returning it. The thrill of deciding what to get is considerably reduced the second time around.

I just tried DVE and had no problem getting all three bars to show up correctly. The reason that some people can't get that third bar up is because their DVD players can't do a black level below "video black". The narrator on the disk even mentions this.

assuming I can talk the wife into this....I might pull the trigger on this set this weekend - anyone know if this could fit in a small SUV like a Forrester or will I need to have it delivered? I appreciate all the info you guys have put out there.....
-m

Ok, I'll do this without posting prices.

I'm in Denver. I called the Colorado Mills BB and asked if they had a set on hand (online showed all stores in Denver unavailable). Sales guy had one 50x3--unopened--in back. BB has a [EDIT] on the Maxent MX-50X3 online. Store matched price. Furthermore, BB Store sales guys went to Manager and [EDIT]. This equates to approx. [EDIT]. The Extended Warranty was $299.00, thus I drove out of store after all said and done--also joining BB awards program--for the sames amount as the Mx-50X3 lists for. This is including tax.

The good news for the Denver folk, BB has a warehouse at Airport and I70 with fifty, that is five zero, units in stock.

Message me if you want me to give you the Sales guys I spoke with..[EDIT]

Thought I would pass this on.

Message me at rowjmmy gmail com

EDIT>>

Mod Note: no discount talk, or sale talk, please. You were way too specific, up to and including the exact store. Discount and sale talk edited out. Thanks.

anyone know if this could fit in a small SUV like a Forrester or will I need to have it delivered?
The box is 54 inches long by 15 inches wide by approximately 38 inches high (height depends on how the two parts of the box have been put together). It weighs approximately 110lbs.

Sorry,

I did not post prices or who I talked to. I just mentioned they had an online sale and that I got additional discount at store. I did not mention how much, just at what percentages the amounts came to. I apologize for being too specific with regard to actual percentage of discount. The rules say don't post coupons and prices--both of which I did not do. Again, pardon my mistake.

Sorry,

I did not post prices or who I talked to. I just mentioned they had an online sale and that I got additional discount at store. I did not mention how much, just at what percentages the amounts came to. I apologize for being too specific with regard to actual percentage of discount. The rules say don't post coupons and prices--both of which I did not do. Again, pardon my mistake.
First off, its no big deal. Don't take it personally.:)

However, you did list % off list, and you were very specific as to where this deal could be found. Also, you offered to help people get a lower price by hooking them up with the guy you spoke with. All in all, it read like a BB ad. Sales and discounts, especially in the context you discussed, are not allowed.


That said, welcome to AVS, and congrats on your new plasma.:)

Today I was in the Best Buy where I purchased my Maxent, and the display model is gone, and there's no tag for it any more. I was going to ask a sales rep if they no longer carried it, but couldn't find one available.

As part of my research in deciding to buy it or not, i called maxent and spoke to a technical (I think) person.

Just thought I'd pass this on.

Q: What is the half life of the MX-50X3 display?
A: 20,000 Hrs

Q: I stated that in my resarch it was fairly obvious this unit uses the Panasonic display. Can you tell me what generation, e.g. 6th? 7yh?, 8th?....that is used.
A: I dont know that information

The site says the half life is 40,000 hours, last i heard

Thanks to everyone for their kind feedback and suggestions with helping me adjust my MX-50X3. Unfortunately I could not get the brightness and black detail to where I thought they should be. I returned it to BB with no problem.

Here's what I ended up doing, please don't laugh: got a Panny TH-42PD50U. Yes, I know it's only 42", and it's EDTV, and it has a tuner and speakers...Not exactly apples to apples. The 50" was the right size for the viewing distance in the bedroom, about 13.5 feet, but it seemed too big. Since I was dropping to 42" from 13.5 feet EDTV was fine and with my lower expectations I think the PQ is really good (I won't bore this thread with the details). I'm not real thrilled with the silver bezel but oh well. Having speakers and tuner, even though I didn't NEED them, made it more flexible for possible future redeployment.

Happy MX-50X3'ing everyone and Merry Christmas too!

Chuck

assuming I can talk the wife into this....I might pull the trigger on this set this weekend - anyone know if this could fit in a small SUV like a Forrester or will I need to have it delivered? I appreciate all the info you guys have put out there.....
-m

Keep in mind it has to stand upright. You cannot lay it down on its side.

Why would lying it on its side hurt it? As long as you do not put tension or torque on it.

Just curious what could possibly happen to it by lying it on its side for a short car trip--albeit with screen facing up?

Why would lying it on its side hurt it? As long as you do not put tension or torque on it.

Just curious what could possibly happen to it by lying it on its side for a short car trip--albeit with screen facing up?

The size/weight of the panel makes it so that it cannot support itself.

Why would lying it on its side hurt it? As long as you do not put tension or torque on it.

Just curious what could possibly happen to it by lying it on its side for a short car trip--albeit with screen facing up?

potholes.

seriously though, the weight of the glass is so great that having it horizontal 'can' have it shatter if the vehicle hit a pothole or a speed bump. i just wouldn't chance it...

ever see large pieces of glass transported horizontally?

-armus

potholes.

seriously though, the weight of the glass is so great that having it horizontal 'can' have it shatter if the vehicle hit a pothole or a speed bump. i just wouldn't chance it...

ever see large pieces of glass transported horizontally?

-armus

I hate disagree but the tv is packed so well that a short trip in a car will not harm the tv in anyway. They are shipped vertically in semi trailers that are very rough riding, and no harm is done. Laying it flat or even at an angle will not cause the glass to brake even if you hit a large pothole. The only way you would break the glass is if something actually punctures the box and contact the glass with enough force to smash it. Otherwise you have nothing to worry about.

JonBoyG: Did you find the LCD TV that would work for both NTSC and PAL?
From my research, only panasonic TH-42PHD8UK model can do it. The new HDMI blade is even designed to work with PAL signal too. It's out of stock again. However, I am also looking for another model that can be purchased locally (just in case there is a problem).
Please let me know if anyone knows any other model..
Thank you

Does anyone know if this model can cope with a PAL signal? A fair number of my DVDs are from the UK and my dvd player doesn't convert the signal, so if the tv can't accept PAL it'll be a bit useless for me.

Thanks in advance.

Getting it home:

It will barely fit in an 02 Suburban. And then we had to tilt it over to get thru the opening. (The opening is smaller than the interior height). Get a pickup, trailer, or have it delivered. Best Buy seems to follow the policy that it must be transported upright - the guy who helped me load mine said it.

Thanks to all who have been very helpful in my selection. After trying for 5 or 6 weeks to get a 50" panny at a decent price, I gave up but kept looking at this forum. I saw the post on the Radio Shack Accurian 6000 HDTV receiver closeout and managed to find one 50 miles from my home, along with the closeout HDMI cable as well. Then after digesting this entire string on the Maxent MX-50x3, i logged on to BB website and found one store 70 miles away that said they had it in stock. On Friday nite, the wife called to make sure and a nice lady offered to put a tag on one in the warehouse for our pickup on Sat. What the heck - if i changed my mind after i got there, no harm done.

They had a panny 50" and the Maxent playing same feed, but not placed side by side. (the Panny was not in stock though, as i expected). I looked at the promotional feed stuff (advertising heavily for Pansonic!) for about 20 minutes each and IMHO, the Panny was slightly better on color and sharpness.........but not enough to justify the large $ difference. My only lingering doubt was the quoted Half Life. After figuring out it is many years of our normal TV watching, i decided OK on the Maxent. The BB 18 months same as cash also helped.

You can probably tell we are somewhat cheap: Closeout Accurian and HDMI cable from Radio Shack, 18 mos same as cash, haul it ourselves.

Im running out of post room - will continue with another post...............

I hate disagree but the tv is packed so well that a short trip in a car will not harm the tv in anyway. They are shipped vertically in semi trailers that are very rough riding, and no harm is done. Laying it flat or even at an angle will not cause the glass to brake even if you hit a large pothole. The only way you would break the glass is if something actually punctures the box and contact the glass with enough force to smash it. Otherwise you have nothing to worry about.


I had no problems hauling it on its side.

my setup: Maxent MX 50X3, fed by:
- Accurian 6000 HDTV receiver via HDMI (optical audio to Technics)
- Technics SADA10 A/V receiver with Dolby 5.1
- Panasonic DVD using component video (optical audio to Technics)
- Elderly Mitsubishi VCR using composite video out (it doesnt even have S video or component video out). Using this for SDTV tuner
- Cox standard cable to VCR tuner
- Homemade VHF (dipole)/UHF(loop) HD receive antenna and impendance matching unit from junkbox parts, mounted on tripod in living room! Yeah...Im a hi-tech redneck! (medium gain antenna currently on order to put in attic or on roof)

We do not pay for the digital cable and there are no 8VSB transmissions currently on the Cox feed (did i mention we were cheap).

All i can say about DTV and HDTV the pix is EXCELLENT! Out of the box with no adjustment (im new to HDTV). DVD looked Excellent as well on the one movie we have watched so far (and its NOT a progressive scan). And for SDTV.....we are upgrading from a 15 year old GE 27" unit that we can barely read game scores and TV guide on. So its a big jump in quality there, even though every analog imperfection is magnified on the big screen. You get used to it. Also there is much quality variation on the Cox SDTV channels. And puzzlingly, the pix aspect/size changes as you surf thru the cable SDTV channels.

Maxent unit was well packaged in a re-assemblable box. There was a small amount of tarry/sticky residue on the unit near the controls, like someone picked it up at the factory with dirty hands. I will try to clean it off with a small amount of WD40 or other solvent.

I had no trouble cabling up and getting going after puzzling out the optimum feeds for the quality sources i have. I have not attempted to fine tune the settings other than for the break-in period. Do not have a calibration disk. My only complaint on the pix is that pixellation on motion scenes is quite noticeable. I dont know if the Panny unit would have been much better in this respect or not - but im satisfied with the Maxent as-is.

I had no problems hauling it on its side.

All I am saying is that is what they told me when I picked mine up. That I couldnt lay it down and that it needed to remain vertical. Do what you want it is your cash.

All i can say about DTV and HDTV the pix is EXCELLENT! Out of the box with no adjustment (im new to HDTV).

I believe the contrast or brightness is set very high 80+ you need to turn that down. Look to prior posts for good settings and/or get the avia disc to calibrate it.

I went to our BB last night to check this one out, but they didn't have it in stock. :( My wife is actually (finally) supportive of buying an HDTV, so I thought maybe I'd check this out before she regains her sanity, so I was pretty disappointed I couldn't look at one. They did have the 42" available though, and it looked pretty good.

Can someone tell me what color the sidebars are on 4:3? I'm kindof new at this stuff....well, I haven't really researched anything for about a year.

...Get a pickup, trailer, or have it delivered.It fits quite nicely in a van, too. :p Granted, my buddy's van is a panel wagon used for work, so no back seats or anything.

I believe the contrast or brightness is set very high 80+ you need to turn that down. Look to prior posts for good settings and/or get the avia disc to calibrate it.I had to leave mine at 80. Anything lower is WAY too dark for me to see anything. :(

They did have the 42" available though, and it looked pretty good.As we've said before, the 42" Maxent at Best Buy is not the same and cannot be used to judge the 50". The 42" Maxent at Costco (model MX-42X3) is the same basic components as the 50" at Best Buy; oddly enough, the 42" Maxent at Best Buy is the same basic components as the 50" Maxent at Costco.

Can someone tell me what color the sidebars are on 4:3?Black. Unless the channel itself has a different color (some of my HD channels have gray sidebars.) There is no option to change the 4:3 sidebar color.

The sidebars on my set are gray.

As we've said before, the 42" Maxent at Best Buy is not the same and cannot be used to judge the 50".

Oh yes, thank you. I had read that and it skipped my mind. I don't have a Costco membership, but I believe they'd let me in to nose around if I was "thinking about getting a membership" so I could look at the 42" version.

Not sure how I feel about buying a TV without actually seeing it in action though...but everything I've read here seems to be that it's a good choice. I can always return it if I don't like it, I guess.